THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
OF THE
MODERN EGYPTIANS.
INTRODUCTION.
THE COUNTRY AND
CLIMATE—METROPOLIS—HOUSES—
POPULATION.
It is generally observed that many of the most
remarkable
peculiarities in the manners, customs, and character of a
nation
are attributable to the physical peculiarities of the country.
Such
causes, in an especial manner, affect the moral and social state
of the modern Egyptians, and therefore here require some preliminary
notice; but it will not as yet be necessary to explain
their particular
influences: these will be evinced in many subsequent
parts of the present
work.
The Nile, in its course trough the narrow and winding valley
of
Upper Egypt,
which is confined on each side by mountainous
and sandy deserts, as well as
through the plain of
Lower Egypt, is
everywhere bordered, excepting in a
very few places, by cultivated
fields of its own formation. These
cultivated tracts are not
perfectly level, being somewhat lower towards the
deserts than in
the neighbourhood of the river. They are interspersed with
palm
groves and villages, and intersected by numerous canals. The
copious summer rains which prevail in Abyssinia and the neighbouring
countries begin to show their effects in Egypt, by the
rising of the Nile,
about the period of the summer solstice. By
the autumnal equinox, the river
attains its greatest height, which
is always sufficient to fill the canals
by which the fields are
irrigated, and, generally, to inundate large
portions of the cultivable
land: it then gradually falls until the period
when it again

begins to rise. Being impregnated,
particularly during its rise,
with rich soil washed down from the
mountainous countries
whence it flows, a copious deposit is annually
spread, either by
the natural inundation or by artificial irrigation, over
the fields
which border it; while its bed, from the same cause, rises in
an
equal degree. The Egyptians depend entirely upon their river
for
the fertilization of the soil, rain being a very rare phenomenon
in their
country, excepting in the neighbourhood of the Mediterranean;
and as the
seasons are perfectly regular, the peasant may
make his arrangements with
the utmost precision respecting the
labour he will have to perform.
Sometimes his labour is light;
but when it consists in raising water for
irrigation it is excessively
severe.
The climate of Egypt, during the greater part of the year, is
remarkably
salubrious. The exhalations from the soil after the
period of the
inundation render the latter part of the autumn less
healthy than the
summer and winter; and cause ophthalmia and
dysentery, and some other
diseases, to be more prevalent then
than at other seasons; and during a
period of somewhat more or
less than fifty days (called
“el-khamáseen
1”), commencing in
April, and lasting
throughout May, hot southerly winds occasionally
prevail for about three
days together. These winds, though
they seldom cause the thermometer of
Fahrenheit to rise above
95° in
Lower Egypt, or, in
Upper Egypt,
105°,
2
are dreadfully
oppressive, even to the natives. When the plague visits
Egypt, it
is generally in the spring; and this disease is most severe in
the
period of the khamáseen. Egypt is also subject,
particularly
during the spring and summer, to the hot wind called the
“samoom,” which is still more oppressive than the
khamáseen
winds, but of much shorter duration, seldom lasting
longer than
a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. It generally
proceeds
from the south-east, or south-south-east, and carries with it
clouds
of dust and sand. The general height of the thermometer in the
depth of winter in
Lower Egypt, in the afternoon and in the
shade, is from
50° to 60°: in the hottest season it is from
90° to
100°; and about ten degrees higher in the
southern parts of
Upper Egypt. But though the summer heat is so great it
is
seldom very oppressive, being generally accompanied by a refreshing
northerly breeze, and the air being extremely dry. There

is, however, one great source of
discomfort arising from this
dryness—namely, an excessive
quantity of dust; and there are
other plagues which very much detract from
the comfort which
the natives of Egypt, and visitors to their country,
otherwise
derive from its genial climate. In spring, summer, and
autumn,
flies are so abundant as to be extremely annoying during the
daytime, and musquitoes are troublesome at night (unless a
curtain be made
use of to keep them away), and sometimes even
in the day; and every house
that contains much wood-work (as
most of the better houses do) swarms with
bugs during the warm
weather. Lice are not always to be avoided in any
season, but
they are easily got rid of; and in the cooler weather fleas
are
excessively numerous.
1 Respecting this term, see the first of the
notes in Chapter xxvi.
2 This is the temperature in the shade. At
Thebes, I have observed the
thermometer to rise above 110°
during a khamáseen wind, in the shade.
The climate of
Upper Egypt is more healthy, though hotter,
than that of
Lower Egypt. The plague seldom ascends far above
Cairo, the metropolis; and
is most common in the marshy parts
of the country, near the Mediterranean.
During the last ten
years, the country having been better drained, and
quarantine
regulations adopted to prevent or guard against the
introduction
of this disease from other countries, very few plague cases
have
occurred, excepting in the parts above mentioned, and in those
parts the pestilence has not been severe.
1 Ophthalmia is also
more common in
Lower Egypt
than in the southern parts. It
generally arises from checked perspiration,
but is aggravated by
the dust and many other causes. When remedies are
promptly
employed, this disease is seldom alarming in its progress;
but
vast numbers of the natives of Egypt, not knowing how to treat
it,
or obstinately resigning themselves to fate, are deprived of the
sight of
one or both of their eyes.
1 This remark was written before the terrible
plague of the present year
[1835], which was certainly introduced from
Turkey, and extended throughout
the whole of Egypt, though its ravages
were not great in the southern parts.
It has destroyed not less than
eighty thousand persons in Cairo: that is, one-third
of the population;
and far more, I believe, than two hundred thousand
in all Egypt.
According to a report made by the government, the victims of
this
plague in Cairo were about forty thousand; but I have
been informed, on
high authority, that the government made it a rule to
report only half the
number of deaths in this case.
When questioned respecting the salubrity of Egypt, I have
often been asked
whether many aged persons are seen among the
inhabitants: few, certainly,
attain a great age in this country;
but how few do, in our own land,
without more than once suffering
from an illness that would prove fatal
without medical aid,

which is obtained by a very small
number in Egypt! The heat
of the summer months is sufficiently oppressive
to occasion
considerable lassitude, while, at the same time, it excites
the
Egyptian to intemperance in sensual enjoyments; and the exuberant
fertility of the soil engenders indolence, little nourishment
sufficing for
the natives, and the sufficiency being procurable
without much exertion.
The modern Egyptian metropolis, to the inhabitants of which
most of the
contents of the following pages relate, is now called
“
Masr”;
1 more properly, “
Misr”; but was
formerly named
“El-Káhireh”; whence
Europeans have formed the name of
Cairo. It is situated at the entrance of the valley of
Upper
Egypt, midway between the Nile and the eastern mountain range
of
Mukattam. Between it and the river there intervenes a tract
of land, for
the most part cultivated, which, in the northern parts
(where the port of
Boolák is situated), is more than a mile in
width, and, at the
southern part, less than half a mile wide. The
metropolis occupies a space
equal to about three square miles;
and its population is about two hundred
and forty thousand. It
is surrounded by a wall, the gates of which are shut
at night, and
is commanded by a large citadel, situated at an angle of the
town,
near a point of the mountain. The streets are unpaved, and
most
of them are narrow and irregular: they might more properly
be called lanes.
1 This is the name by which the modern Egyptians
call their country, as
well as its metropolis.
By a stranger who merely passed through the streets,
Cairo would be regarded
as a very close and crowded city; but that
this is not the case is evident
to a person who overlooks the town
from the top of a lofty house, or from
the menaret of a mosque.
The great thoroughfare-streets have generally a
row of shops
along each side. Above the shops are apartments which do
not
communicate with them, and which are seldom occupied by the
persons who rent the shops. To the right and left of the great
thoroughfares are bye-streets and quarters. Most of the bye-streets
are
thoroughfares, and have a large wooden gate at each end,
closed at night,
and kept by a porter within, who opens to any
persons requiring to be
admitted. The quarters mostly consist
of several narrow lanes, having but
one general entrance, with a
gate, which is also closed at night; but
several have a bye-street
passing through them.


PRIVATE HOUSE IN CAIRO. The street in this view is wider than
usual. The projecting windows on opposite sides of a street often
nearly meet each other, almost entirely excluding the sun, and thus
producing an agreeable coolness in the summer.

Of the private houses of the metropolis it is particularly necessary
that I
should give a description. The accompanying engraving
will serve to give a
general notion of their exterior. The
foundation-walls, to the height of
the first floor, are cased, externally,
and often internally, with the soft
calcareous stone of the
neighbouring mountain. The surface of the stone,
when newly
cut, is of a light yellowish hue; but its colour soon darkens.
The
alternate courses of the front are sometimes coloured red and
white,
1
particularly in large houses; as is the case with most
mosques. The
superstructure, the front of which generally projects
about two feet, and
is supported by corbels or piers, is of
brick, and often plastered. The
bricks are burnt, and of a dull
red colour. The mortar is generally
composed of mud in the
proportion of one-half, with a fourth part of lime,
and the remaining
part of the ashes of straw and rubbish. Hence the
unplastered
walls of brick are of a dirty colour, as if the bricks were
unburnt.
The roof is flat, and covered with a coat of plaster.
1 With red ochre and lime wash.
The most usual architectural style of the entrance of a private
house in
Cairo is shown by he sketch here inserted. The door
is often ornamented in
the manner here represented: the compartment
in which is the inscription,
and the other similarly-shaped
compartments, are painted red, bordered with
white; the
rest of the surface of the door is painted green. The
inscription,
“He (
i.e., God) is the
excellent Creator, the Everlasting” (the
object of which will be
explained when I treat of the superstitions
of the Egyptians), is seen on
many doors; but is far from being
general. It is usually painted in black
or white characters. Few
doors but those of large houses are painted. They
generally have
an iron knocker and a wooden lock; and there is usually a
mounting-stone
by the side.
The ground-floor apartments next the street have small wooden
grated
windows, placed sufficiently high to render it impossible
for a person
passing by in the street, even on horseback, to see
through them. The
windows of the upper apartments generally
project a foot and a half, or
more, and are mostly formed of turned
wooden lattice-work, which is so
close that it shuts out much of
the light and sun, and screens the inmates
of the house from the
view of persons without, while at the same time it
admits the air.
They are generally of unpainted wood; but some few are
partially
painted red and green, and some are entirely painted. A window

of this kind is called a
“róshan,” or, more commonly, a
“meshrebeeyeh,”
which latter word has another
application, that will be

DOOR OF A PRIVATE HOUSE.
mentioned below. Several windows of different descriptions are
represented in some of the illustrations of this work; and sketches

of the most common patterns of the
lattice-work, on a larger

SPECIMENS OF LATTICE WORK. From the centre of one row of beads to
that of the next (in these specimens) is between an inch and a
quarter and an inch and three-quarters.
scale, are here inserted.
1 Sometimes a window of the kind above

described has a little
meshrebeeyeh, which somewhat resembles a
róshan in miniature,
projecting from the front, or from each side.
In this, in order to be
exposed to a current of air, are placed
porous earthen bottles, which are
used for cooling water by
evaporation. Hence the name of
“meshrebeeyeh,” which signifies
“a place
for drink,” or “—for drinking.” The
projecting window
has a flat one of lattice-work, or of grating of wood, or
of coloured
glass, immediately above it. This upper window, if of
lattice-work,
is often of a more fanciful construction than the
others,
exhibiting a representation of a basin with a ewer above it, or
the
figure of a lion, or the name of “Allah,” or the
words “God is my
hope,” etc. Some projecting windows
are wholly constructed of
boards, and a few have frames of glass in the
sides. In the
better houses, also, the windows of lattice-work are now
generally
furnished with frames of glass in the inside, which in the
winter
are wholly closed: for a penetrating cold is felt in Egypt when
the
thermometer of Fahrenheit is below 60°. The windows of
inferior
houses are mostly of a different kind, being even with the
exterior surface of the wall: the upper part is of wooden lattice-work,
or
grating; and the lower closed by hanging shutters; but
many of these have a
little meshrebeeyeh for the water-bottles,
projecting from the lower part.
1 No. 1 is a view and section of a portion of
the most simple kind. This and
the other four kinds and here
represented on a scale of about one-seventh of the
real size. No. 6
shows the general proportions of the side of a projecting
window. The
portion A is, in most instances, of lattice-work similar to
No. 1, and
comprises about twelve rows of beads in the width: the portion B
is
commonly either of the same kind, or like No. 2 or No. 3; and the small
lattice C, which is attached by hinges, is generally similar to No.
4.
The houses in general are two or three storeys high; and
almost every house
that is sufficiently large encloses an open,
unpaved court, called a
“hósh,” which is entered by a passage
that
is constructed with one or two turnings, for the purpose of
preventing
passengers in the street from seeing into it.
1 In this
passage, just within the
door, there is a long stone seat, called
“mastab'ah,”
built against the back or side wall, for the porter
and other servants. In
the court is a well of slightly brackish
water, which filters through the
soil from the Nile; and on its
most shaded side are, commonly, two
water-jars, which are daily replenished
with water of the Nile, brought
from the river in skins.
2
The principal apartments look into the court; and their exterior


COURT OF A PRIVATE HOUSE IN CAIRO.

walls (those which are of brick)
are plastered and whitewashed.
There are several doors, which are entered
from the court. One
of these is called “báb
el-hareem” (the door of the hareem): it
is the entrance of the
stairs which lead to the apartments
appropriated exclusively to the women
and their master and his
children.
1
1 Commonly similar to No. 1, or No. 5.
2 Some large houses have two courts: the inner
for the hareem; and in the
latter, or both of these, there is usually a
little enclosure of arched wood-work,
in which trees and flowers are
raised.
1 In the accompanying view of the court of a
house, the door of the hareem
is that which faces the spectator.
In-general, there is, on the ground floor, an apartment called a
“mandar'ah,” in which male visitors are received. This has
a
wide wooden grated window, or two windows of this kind, next
the
court. A small part of the floor, extending from the door to
the opposite
side of the room, is six or seven inches lower than
the rest: this part is
called the “durká'ah.”
2 In a handsome

FOUNTAIN.
house, the durká'ah of the mandar'ah is paved with white
and
black marble, and little pieces of fine red tile, inlaid in
complicated
and tasteful patterns, and has in the centre a fountain
(called “faskeeyeh”), which plays into a small shallow
pool, lined
with coloured marbles, etc., like the surrounding pavement.
I
give a sketch of the fountain. The water which falls from the
fountain is drained off from the pool by a pipe. There is generally,
fronting the door, at the end of the durká'ah, a shelf of marble

or of common stone, about four feet
high, called a “suffeh,” supported
by two or more
arches, or by a single arch, under which
are placed utensils in ordinary
use—such as perfuming vessels,
and the basin and ewer which are
used for washing before and
after meals, and for the ablution preparatory
to prayer: water-bottles,
coffee-cups, etc., are placed upon the suffeh. In
handsome
houses, the arches of the suffeh are faced with marble and
tile, like the pool of the fountain represented in the sketch above,
and
sometimes the wall over it, to the height of about four feet or
more, is
also cased with similar materials: partly with large upright
slabs, and
partly with small pieces, like the durká'ah. The
raised part of
the floor of the room is called “leewán”
1 (a
corruption
of “el-eewán,” which signifies “any
raised place to sit
upon,” and also “a
palace”). Every person slips off his shoes on
the
durká'ah before he steps upon the leewán.
2 The latter is

SUFFEH.
generally paved with common stone, and covered with a mat in
summer, and a carpet over the mat in winter; and has a mattress
and
cushions placed against each of its three walls, composing
what is called a
“deewán,” or divan. The mattress, which is
generally about three feet wide and three or four inches thick, is
placed
either on the ground or on a raised frame; and the
cushions, which are
usually of a length equal to the width of the
mattress, and of a height
equal to half that measure, lean against
the wall. Both mattresses and
cushions are stuffed with cotton,
and are covered with printed calico,
cloth, or some more expensive

stuff. The walls are plastered and
whitewashed. There are
generally, in the walls, two or three shallow
cupboards, the doors
of which are composed of very small panels, on account
of the
heat and dryness of the climate, which cause wood to warp and
shrink as if it were placed in an oven; for which reason the doors
of the
apartments also are constructed in the same manner. We
observe great
variety and much ingenuity displayed in the different
modes in which these
small panels are formed and disposed.
A few specimens are here introduced.
The ceiling over the
leewán is of wood, with carved beams,
generally about a foot
apart, partially painted, and sometimes gilt. But
that part of the
ceiling which is over the durká'ah, in a
handsome house, is usually
more richly decorated; here, instead of beams,
numerous thin
strips of wood are nailed upon the planks, forming
patterns
curiously complicated, yet perfectly regular, and having a
highly
ornamental effect. I give a sketch of the half of a ceiling
thus
decorated, but not in the most complicated style. The strips are
painted yellow or gilt; and the spaces within, painted green, red,
and
blue.
1 In the
example which I have inserted, the colours
are as indicated in the sketch
of a portion of the same on a
larger scale, excepting in the square in the
centre of the ceiling,
where the strips are black, upon a yellow ground.
From the
centre of this square a chandelier is often suspended. There
are
many patterns of a similar kind; and the colours generally
occupy
similar places with regard to each other; but in some
houses these ceilings
are not painted. The ceiling of a projecting
window is often ornamented in
the same manner. A sketch of
one is here given. Good taste is evinced by
only decorating in
this manner parts which are not always before the eyes;
for to
look long at so many lines intersecting each other in various
directions would be painful.
2 Apparently a corruption of the Persian
“dargáh.”—The view of a
ká'ah
opposite p. 14 will serve to illustrate the
description of the mandar'ah.
1 The “leewán”
is not to be confounded with the “deewán,”
which is afterwards
mentioned.
2 One of the chief reasons of the custom here
mentioned is, to avoid defiling
a mat or carpet upon which prayer is
usually made. This, as many authors
have observed, illustrates passages
of the Scriptures—Exodus iii. 5, and Joshua
v. 15.
In some houses (as in that which is the subject of the engraving
opposite p.
9) there is another room, called a “mak'ad,” for the
same
use as the mandar'ah, having an open front, with two or more
arches and a low railing; and also, on the ground floor, a square
recess,
called a “takhtabósh,” with an open front, and
generally
a pillar to support the wall above: its floor is a paved
leewán;
and there is a long wooden sofa placed along one, or
two, or each
of its three walls. The court, during the summer, is
frequently
sprinkled with water, which renders the surrounding
apartments

agreeably cool—or at
least those on the ground-floor. All the
rooms are furnished in the same
manner as that first described.

SPECIMENS OF PANEL-WORK. These are represented on a scale of one
inch to twenty-four or thirty.
Among the upper apartments, or those of the Hareem, there
is generally one
called a “ká'ah,” which is particularly lofty.
It

has two
leewáns—one on each hand of a person entering: one of
these is generally larger than the other, and is the more honourable

CEILING OF A DURKá' AH.—About eight feet
wide.

CEILING OF A PROJECTING WINDOW. The dimensions of this are about
eight feet by three.
part. A portion of the roof of this saloon, the part which is

over the durká'ah that
divides the two leewáns, is a little elevated
above the rest;
and has, in the centre, a small lantern, called
“memrak,” the sides of which are composed of lattice-work,
like
the windows before described, and support a cupola. The
durká'ah
is commonly without a fountain; but is often paved in
a
similar manner to that of the mandar'ah, which the ká'ah
also
resembles in having a handsome suffeh, and cupboards of curious
panel-work. There is, besides, in this and some other apartments,
a narrow
shelf of wood, extending along two or each of the three
walls which bound
the leewán, about seven feet or more from the
floor, just above
the cupboards, but interrupted in some parts—
at least in those
parts where the windows are placed; upon this
are arranged several vessels
of china, not so much for general use
as for ornament.
1 All the apartments
are lofty, generally fourteen
feet or more in height; but the
ká'ah is the largest and most lofty
room, and in a large house
it is a noble saloon.
1 In the larger houses, and some others, there
is also, adjoining the principal
saloon, an elevated closet, designed
as an orchestra, for female singers. A
description of this will be
found in the chapter on music.
In several of the upper rooms, in the houses of the wealthy,
there are,
besides the windows of lattice-work, others, of coloured
glass,
representing bunches of flowers, peacocks, and other gay
and gaudy objects,
or merely fanciful patterns, which have a
pleasing effect. These coloured
glass windows, which are termed
“kamareeyehs,”
2 are mostly from a
foot and a half to two feet
and a half in height, and from one to two feet
in width; and are
generally placed along the upper part of the projecting
lattice-window,
in a row; or above that kind of window, disposed in a
group, so as to form a large square; or elsewhere in the upper
parts of the
walls, usually singly, or in pairs, side by side. They
are composed of
small pieces of glass, of various colours, set in
rims of fine plaster, and
enclosed in a frame of wood. On the
plastered walls of some apartments are
rude paintings of the
temple of Mekkeh, or of the tomb of the Prophet, or
of flowers
and other objects, executed by native Muslim artists, who
have
not the least notion of the rules of perspective, and who
consequently

deface what they thus attempt to
decorate. Sometimes,
also, the walls are ornamented with Arabic
inscriptions, of maxims,
etc., which are more usually written on paper, in
an embellished
style, and enclosed in glazed frames. No chambers are
furnished
as bedrooms. The bed, in the daytime, is rolled up, and
placed
on one side, or in an adjoining closet, called
“khazneh,” which,
in the winter, is a sleeping-place:
in summer, many people sleep
upon the house-top. A mat, or carpet, spread
upon the raised
part of the stone floor, and a deewán,
constitute the complete
furniture of a room. For meals, a round tray is
brought in, and
placed upon a low stool, and the company sit round it on
the
ground. There is no fire-place:
1 the room is warmed, when
necessary, by burning
charcoal in a chafing-dish. Many houses
have, at the top, a sloping shed of
boards, called a “malkaf,”
2

WOODEN LOCK.
directed towards the north or north-west, to convey to a
“fes-hah,”
or “fesahah” (an
open apartment), below the cool breezes which
generally blow from those
quarters.
2 This word is said to be derived from
“kamar” (the moon). Baron
Hammer-Purgstall thinks
(see the Vienna “Jahrbücher der Literatur,”
lxxxi.
bd., pp. 71, 72) that it has its origin from Chumaruje [or, as
he is called by
the Arabs in general, Khumáraweyh], the
second prince of the dynasty of the
Benee-Tooloon, who governed in
Egypt in the end of the ninth century of the
Christian era, and that it
proves the art of staining glass to have been in a
flourishing state in
Cairo at that period.
1 Excepting in the kitchen, in which are several
small receptacles for fire,
constructed on a kind of bench of brick.
Hence, and for several other reasons
(among which may be mentioned the
sober and early habits of the people, the
general absence of draperies
in the apartments, and the construction of the
floors, which are of
wood overlaid with stone), the destruction of a house by
fire seldom
happens in Cairo; but when such an accident does occur, an extensive
conflagration is the usual result; for a great quantity of wood, mostly
deal,
and of course excessively dry, is employed in the construction of
the houses.
2 See again the engraving opposite p. 9.
Every door is furnished with a wooden lock, called a
“dabbeh,”

the mechanism of which is shown by
a sketch here inserted.
No. 1 in this sketch is a front view of the lock,
with the bolt
drawn back; Nos. 2, 3, and 4, are back views of the
separate
parts, and the key. A number of small iron pins (four, five,
or more) drop into corresponding holes in the sliding bolt as
soon as the
latter is pushed into the hole or staple of the
door-post. The key also has
small pins, made to correspond
with the holes, into which they are
introduced to open the
lock: the former pins being thus pushed up, the bolt
may be
drawn back. The wooden lock of a street-door is commonly
about
fourteen inches long:
1 those of the doors of apartments,
cupboards, etc., are about
seven, or eight, or nine inches. The
locks of the gates of quarters, public
buildings, etc., are of the
same kind, and mostly two feet, or even more,
in length. It is
not difficult to pick this kind of lock.
1 This is the measure of the sliding
bolt.
In the plan of almost every house there is an utter want of
regularity. The
apartments are generally of different heights—so
that a person
has to ascend or descend one, two, or more steps,
to pass from one chamber
to another adjoining it. The principal
aim of the architect is to render
the house as private as possible;
particularly that part of it which is
inhabited by the women; and
not to make any window in such a situation as
to overlook the
apartments of another house. Another object of the
architect, in
building a house for a person of wealth or rank, is to make
a
secret door (“báb sirr”
2), from which the
tenant may make his
escape in case of danger from an arrest, or an attempt
at assassination—or
by which to give access and egress to a
paramour; and
it is also common to make a hiding-place for treasure
(called
“makhba”) in some part of the house. In the
hareem of a large
house there is generally a bath, which is heated in the
same
manner as the public baths.
2 This term is also applied sometimes to the
door of the hareem.
Another style of building has lately been very generally adopted
for houses
of the more wealthy. These do not differ much from
those already described;
excepting in the windows, which are of
glass, and placed almost close
together. Each window of the
hareem has, outside, a sliding frame of close
wooden trellis-work,
to cover the lower half. The numerous glass windows
are ill
adapted to a hot climate.
When shops occupy the lower part of the buildings in a street
(as is
generally the case in the great thoroughfares of the metropolis,

A KÄAH.


and in some of the bye-streets),
the superstructure is usually
divided into distinct lodgings, and is termed
“raba.” These
lodgings are separate from each other,
as well as from the shops
below, and let to families who cannot afford the
rent of a whole
house. Each lodging in a raba comprises one or two sitting
and
sleeping-rooms, and generally a kitchen and latrina. It seldom
has
a separate entrance from the street, one entrance and one
staircase usually
admitting to a range of several lodgings. The
apartments are similar to
those of the private houses first described.
They are never let
ready-furnished; and it is very seldom that a
person who has not a wife or
female slave is allowed to reside in
them, or in any private house: such a
person (unless he have
parents or other near relations to dwell with) is
usually obliged to
take up his abode in a
“wekáleh,” which is a building chiefly
designed
for the reception of merchants and their goods. Franks,
however, are now exempted from this restriction.
Very few large or handsome houses are to be seen in Egypt,
excepting in the
metropolis and some other towns. The dwellings
of the lower orders,
particularly those of the peasants, are of
a very mean description: they
are mostly built of unbaked bricks,
cemented together with mud. Some of
them are mere hovels.
The greater number, however, comprise two or more
apartments;
though few are two storeys high. In one of these apartments,
in
the houses of the peasants in
Lower Egypt, there is generally an
oven (“furn”), at the end farthest from the entrance, and
occupying
the whole width of the chamber. It resembles a wide bench
or
seat, and is about breast-high: it is constructed of brick and
mud; the
roof arched within, and flat on the top. The inhabitants
of the house, who
seldom have any night-covering during the
winter, sleep upon the top of the
oven, having previously lighted
a fire within it; or the husband and wife
only enjoy this luxury,
and the children sleep upon the floor. The chambers
have small
apertures high up in the walls, for the admission of light and
air
—sometimes furnished with a grating of wood. The roofs
are
formed of palm-branches and palm-leaves, or of millet-stalks,
etc.,
laid upon rafters of the trunk of the palm, and covered with a
plaster of mud and chopped straw. The furniture consists of a
mat or two to
sleep upon, a few earthen vessels, and a hand-mill
to grind the corn. In
many villages large pigeon-houses of a
square form, but with the walls
slightly inclining inwards (like
many of the ancient Egyptian buildings),
or of the form of a
sugar-loaf, are constructed upon the roofs of the huts,
with crude

brick, pottery, and mud.
1 Most of the
villages of Egypt are situated
upon eminences of rubbish, which rise a few
feet above the
reach of the inundation, and are surrounded by palm-trees,
or have
a few of these trees in their vicinity. The rubbish which they
occupy chiefly consists of the materials of former huts, and seems
to
increase in about the same degree as the level of the alluvial
plains and
the bed of the river.
1 The earthen pots used in the construction of
these pigeon-houses are of an
oval form, with a wide mouth, which is
placed outwards, and a small hole at
the other end. Each pair of
pigeons occupies a separate pot.
In a country where neither births nor deaths are registered it is
next to
impossible to ascertain, with precision, the amount of the
population. A
few years ago a calculation was made, founded on
the number of houses in
Egypt, and the supposition that the inhabitants
of each house in the
metropolis amount to eight persons,
and in the provinces to four. This
computation approximates, I
believe, very nearly to the truth; but personal
observation and
inquiry incline me to think that the houses of such towns
as
Alexandria, Boolák, and
Masr el-'Ateekah contain each, on
the
average, at least five persons: Rasheed (or
Rosetta) is half
deserted;
but as to the crowded town of Dimyát
2 (or
Damietta),
we must reckon as many as six persons to each house, or our
estimate will
fall far short of what is generally believed to be the
number of its
inhabitants. The addition of one or two persons
to each house in the
above-mentioned towns will, however, make
little difference in the
computation of the whole population of
Egypt, which was found, by this mode
of reckoning, to amount
to rather more than 2,500,000; but it is now much
reduced. Of
2,500,000 souls, say 1,200,000 are males; and one-third of
this
number (400,000) men fit for military service: from this latter
number the present Básha of Egypt has taken, at the least,
200,000 (that is, one-half of the most serviceable portion of the
male
population) to form and recruit his armies of regular troops,
and for the
service of his navy. The further loss caused by
withdrawing so many men
from their wives, or preventing their
marrying, during ten years, must
surely far exceed 300,000; consequently,
the present population may be
calculated as less than
two millions. The numbers of the several classes of
which the
population is mainly composed are nearly as follows:—
2 Vulgarly called
“Dumyát.”

Muslim Egyptians (felláheen, or
peasants, and townspeople) |
1,750,000 |
Christian Egyptians (Copts) |
150,000 |
'Osmánlees, or Turks |
10,000 |
Syrians |
5,000 |
Greeks |
5,000 |
Armenians |
2,000 |
Jews |
5,000 |
Of the remainder (namely, Arabians, Western Arabs, Nubians,
Negro slaves,
Memlooks [or white male slaves], female white
slaves, Franks, etc.),
amounting to about 70,000, the respective
numbers are very uncertain and
variable. The Arabs of the
neighbouring deserts ought not to be included
among the population
of Egypt.
1
1 The Muslim Egyptians, Copts, Syrians, and Jews
of Egypt, with few
exceptions, speak no language but the Arabic, which
is also the language
generally used by the foreigners settled in this
country. The Nubians, among
themselves, speak their own
dialects.
Cairo, I have said, contains about 240,000 inhabitants.
2 We
should be greatly deceived if
we judged of the population of this
city from the crowds that we meet in
the principal thoroughfare-streets
and markets; in most of the bye-streets
and quarters very
few passengers are seen. Nor should we judge from the
extent
of the city and suburbs; for there are within the walls many
vacant places, some of which, during the season of the inundation,
are
lakes (as the Birket el-Ezbekeeyeh, Birket el-Feel, etc.).
The gardens,
several burial-grounds, the courts of houses, and the
mosques, also occupy
a considerable space. Of the inhabitants
of the metropolis, about 190,000
are Egyptian Muslims; about
10,000, Copts; 3,000 or 4,000, Jews; and the
rest, strangers
from various countries.
3
2 The population of Cairo has increased to this
amount, from about 200,000,
within the last three or four years. Since
the computation here stated was
made, the plague of this year [1835]
has destroyed not fewer than one-third
of its inhabitants, as before
mentioned; but this deficiency will be rapidly
supplied from the
villages.
3 About one-third of the population of the
metropolis consists of adult
males. Of this number (or 80,000) about
30,000 are merchants, petty shopkeepers,
and artisans; 20,000, domestic
servants; 15,000, common labourers,
porters, etc.: the remainder
chiefly consists of military and civil servants of
the
government.
The population of Egypt in the times of the Pharaohs was

probably about six or seven
millions.
1 The
produce of the soil
in the present age would suffice, if none were
exported, for the
maintenance of a population amounting to 4,000,000; and
if all
the soil which is capable of cultivation were sown, the produce
would be sufficient for the maintenance of 8,000,000. But this
would be the
utmost number that Egypt could maintain in years
of plentiful inundation; I
therefore compute the ancient population,
at the time when agriculture was
in a very flourishing state,
to have amounted to what I first stated; and
must suppose it to
have been scarcely more than half as numerous in the
times of
the Ptolemies, and at later periods, when a great quantity of
corn
was annually exported.
2 This calculation agrees with what Diodorus
Siculus says (in lib. i. cap. 31); namely, that Egypt contained,
in the
times of the ancient kings, 7,000,000 inhabitants,
and in his own time not
less than 3,000,000.
1 I place but little reliance on the accounts of
ancient authors on this subject.
2 It has been suggested to me that, if corn was
exported, something of
equal value was imported; and that the
exportation of corn, or anything else,
would give a stimulus to
industry and to population: but I do not know what
could be imported
that would fill up the measure of the food necessary to sustain
a
population much greater than that which would consume the corn
retained.
How different now is the state of Egypt from what it might be,
possessing a
population of scarcely more than one quarter of the
number that it might be
rendered capable of supporting! How
great a change might be effected in it
by a truly enlightened
government, by a prince who (instead of
impoverishing the
peasantry by depriving them of their lands, and by his
monopolies
of the most valuable productions of the soil; by employing
the best portion of the population to prosecute his ambitious
schemes of
foreign conquest, and another large portion in the
vain attempt to rival.
European manufactures) would give his
people a greater interest in the
cultivation of the fields, and make
Egypt what nature designed it to
be—almost exclusively an agricultural
country! Its produce of
cotton alone would more than
suffice to procure all the articles of foreign
manufacture, and all
the natural productions of foreign countries, that the
wants of its
inhabitants demand.
3
3 During the present year [1835] more than
100,000 bales of cotton (each
bale weighing a hundred-weight and
three-quarters) have been shipped at
Alexandria. The price paid for
this quantity by the merchants exceeded
£700,000. The
quantity exported last year was 34,000 bales, which is considerably
less than usual.—The policy above recommended is strongly
advocated
by Ibráheem Básha.
The desired change may now be easily effected, for since the
above was
written the Básha has been placed in a new position,
which will
enable him to acquire a greater and more honourable
fame, by the
cultivation of the arts of peace, than his conquests,
brilliant as they
have been, have hitherto procured for him. No
one who is acquainted with
the modern history of Egypt, and
more particularly with the state of the
country during the period
that intervened between the French expedition and
the accession
of Mohammad 'Alee to the office of viceroy, can doubt that
he
possesses extraordinary talents for government; and let us hope
that those talents will be rightly employed: but, as he himself
affirms,
some time will be required for effecting the necessary
changes.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER I.
PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS AND DRESS OF THE MUSLIM EGYPTIANS.
Muslims of Arabian origin have for many centuries
mainly composed
the population of Egypt: they have changed its
language,
laws, and general manners; and its metropolis they have made
the principal seat of Arabian learning and arts. To the description
of this
people, and especially of the middle and higher
classes in the Egyptian
capital, will be devoted the chief portion
of the present work. In every
point of view,
Masr (or
Cairo)
must be regarded as the first Arab city of
our age; and the
manners and customs of its inhabitants are particularly
interesting,
as they are a combination of those which prevail most
generally
in the towns of Arabia,
Syria, and the whole of Northern
Africa,
and in a great degree in Turkey. There is no other place in
which we can obtain so complete a knowledge of the most civilized
classes
of the Arabs.
From statements made in the introduction to this work, it
appears that
Muslim Egyptians (or Arab-Egyptians) compose
nearly four-fifths of the
population of the metropolis (which is
computed to amount to about
240,000), and just seven-eighths
of that of all Egypt.
The Muslim Egyptians are descended from various Arab tribes
and families
which have settled in Egypt at different periods;

mostly soon after the conquest of
this country by 'Amr, its first
Arab governor; but by intermarriages with
the Copts and others
who have become proselytes to the faith of
El-Islám, as well as by
the change from a life of wandering to
that of citizens or of agriculturists,
their personal characteristics have,
by degrees, become so
much altered, that there is a strongly marked
difference between
them and the natives of Arabia. Yet they are to be
regarded as
not less genuine Arabs than the townspeople of Arabia
itself,
among whom has long and very generally prevailed a custom of
keeping Abyssinian female slaves, either instead of marrying their
own
countrywomen, or (as is commonly the case with the opulent)
in addition to
their Arab wives; so that they bear almost as
strong a resemblance to the
Abyssinians as to the Bedawees, or
Arabs of the Desert. The term
“Arab,”
1 it should here be remarked,
is now used wherever
the Arabic language is spoken,
only to designate the Bedawees collectively.
In speaking of a
tribe, or of a small number of those people, the word
“'Orbán”
is also used; and a single
individual is called “Bedawee.”
2 In
the metropolis and other towns of
Egypt, the distinction of tribes
is almost wholly lost; but it is preserved
among the peasants,
who have retained many Bedawee customs, of which I
shall have
to speak. The native Muslim inhabitants of
Cairo commonly
call
themselves “El-Masreeyeen,”
“Owlád-
Masr” (or
“Ahl-
Masr”),
and
“Owlád-el-Beled,” which signify people of
Masr,
children of
Masr, and children of the town; the singular forms of these
appellations
are “Masree,”
“Ibn-
Masr,” and “Ibn-el-Beled.”
3 Of
these three
terms, the last is most common in the town itself.
The country people are
called “El-Felláheen” (or the
Agriculturists),
in the singular
“Felláh.”
4 The Turks often apply this
term to
the Egyptians in general in an abusive sense, as meaning
“the
boors,” or “the clowns;” and improperly
stigmatize them
with the appellation of
“Ahl-Far'oon,”
5 or “the people of
Pharaoh.”
1 This term was formerly used to designate the
Arabian townspeople and villagers,
while the Arabs who dwelt in the Desert were called “Aaráb,”
or
“Aarábees.” The Arabs dwelling in
house now terms themselves
“Owlád-el-‘Arab,”
or Sons
of the Arabs.
2 Feminine, “Bedaweeyeh.”
3 In the feminine,
“Masreeyeh,” “Bint-Masr,” and
“Bint-el-Beled.”
5 Thus commonly pronounced for
“Fir'own.”
In general, the Muslim Egyptians attain the height of about
five feet eight,
or five feet nine inches. Most of the children
under nine or ten years of
age have spare limbs and a distended

abdomen; but, as they grow up,
their forms rapidly improve. In
mature age most of them are remarkably well
proportioned. The
men, muscular and robust; the women, very beautifully
formed,
and plump; and neither sex is too fat. I have never seen
corpulent
persons among them, excepting a few in the metropolis
and
other towns, rendered so by a life of inactivity. In
Cairo,
and throughout
the northern provinces, those who have not been
much exposed to the sun,
have a yellowish, but very clear complexion,
and soft skin; the rest are of
a considerably darker and
coarser complexion. The people of Middle Egypt
are of a more
tawny colour, and those of the more southern provinces are of
a
deep bronze or brown complexion—darkest towards
Nubia,
where
the climate is hottest. In general, the countenance of the
Muslim
Egyptian (I here speak of the
men) is of a
fine oval form; the
forehead, of moderate size, seldom high, but generally
prominent;
the eyes are deep-sunk, black, and brilliant; the nose is
straight,
but rather thick; the mouth well formed; the lips are rather
full
than otherwise; the teeth particularly beautiful;
1 the beard is
commonly black and curly, but scanty. I have seen very few
individuals of
this race with grey eyes, or rather, few persons
supposed to be of this
race; for I am inclined to think them the
offspring of Arab women by Turks
or other foreigners. The
Felláheen, from constant exposure to
the sun, have a habit of half
shutting their eyes; this is also
characteristic of the Bedawees.
Great numbers of the Egyptians are blind in
one or both eyes.
They generally shave that part of the cheek which is
above the
lower jaw, and likewise a small space under the lower lip,
leaving,
however, the hairs which grow in the middle under the mouth;
or, instead of shaving these parts, they pluck out the hair. They
also
shave a part of the beard under the chin. Very few shave
the rest of their
beards,
2 and none
their moustaches. The former
they suffer to grow to the length of about a
hand's breadth below
the chin (such, at least, is the general rule, and
such was the custom
of the Prophet); and their moustaches they do not allow
to
1 Tooth-ache is, however, a very common disorder
in Egypt, as it was in
ancient times. This, at least, was probably the
case, as Herodotus (lib, ii.,
cap.84) mentions dentists among the
classes of Egyptian physicians. It is,
of course, most prevalent among
the higher orders.
2 A few of the servants, and some others, shave
their beards. The respect
which Orientals in general pay to the beard
has often been remarked. They
swear by it, and say that a man disgraces
it by an evil action. The punishment
recorded in 2 Samuel, ch. x., v.
4, has frequently been practised in
modern times, but not so often as
the shaving of the whole of the beard.

become so long as to incommode them
in eating and drinking.
The practice of dyeing the beard is not common, for
a grey beard
is much respected. The Egyptians shave all the rest of the
hair,
or leave only a small tuft (called “shoosheh”)
upon the crown of
the head.
1 This last custom (which is almost universal among
them), I have been told, originated in the fear that if the Muslim
should
fall into the hands of an infidel and be slain, the latter
might cut off
the head of his victim, and finding no hair by which
to hold it, put his
impure hand into the mouth in order to carry
it; for the beard might not be
sufficiently long.
2 With
the like
view of avoiding impurity, the Egyptians observe other
customs
which need not here be described.
3 Many men of the lower
orders, and
some others, make blue marks upon their arms, and
sometimes upon the hands
and chest, as the women, in speaking
of whom this operation will be
described.
1 The Muslims hold it to be inconsistent with
the honour that is due to
everything that has appertained to the human
body to leave upon the ground
the shavings or clippings of hair the
parings of nails, etc., which, therefore,
they generally bury in the
earth.
2 Persons of literary and religious professions
generally disapprove of the
shoosheh.
3 They are mentioned in the
“Mishcát-ul-Masábíh,”
vol. ii., p.359, and are
observed by both sexes.
The dress of the men of the middle and higher classes consists
of the
following articles.
4
First, a pair of full drawers
5 of linen
or cotton, tied round the body by a running string or
band,
6 the
ends of which are embroidered with coloured silks, though concealed
by the
outer dress. The drawers descend a little below
the knees, or to the
ankles; but many of the Arabs will not wear
long drawers, because
prohibited by the Prophet. Next is worn
a shirt, with very full sleeves,
reaching to the wrist; it is made of
linen, of a loose, open texture, or of
cotton stuff, or of muslin or
silk, or of a mixture of silk and cotton, in
stripes, but all white.
7 Over this, in winter, or in cool weather, most persons wear a
“sudeyree,” which is a short vest of cloth, or of striped
coloured
silk and cotton, without sleeves. Over the shirt and sudeyree,
or
the former alone, is worn a long vest of striped silk and cotton
8
(called “kaftán,” or more commonly
“kuftán”), descending to
4 The fashion of their dress remains almost the
same during the lapse of centuries.
6 Called “dikkeh,” or
“tikkeh.”
7 The Prophet forbade men to wear silk clothing,
but allowed women to do
so. The prohibition is, however, attended to by
very few modern Muslims,
excepting the Wahhábees.
8 The stripes are seldom plain; they are
generally figured or flowered.


MEN OF THE MIDDLE AND HIGHER CLASSES.

the ankles, with long sleeves
extending a few inches beyond the
fingers' ends, but divided from a point a
little above the wrist, or
about the middle of the fore-arm; so that the
hand is generally
exposed, though it may be concealed by the sleeve when
necessary,
for it is customary to cover the hands in the presence of a
person of high rank. Round this vest is wound the girdle, which
is a
coloured shawl, or a long piece of white figured muslin. The
ordinary outer
robe is a long cloth coat, of any colour (called by
the Turks
“jubbeh,” but by the Egyptians
“gibbeh”), the sleeves
of which reach not quite to
the wrist.
1 Some
persons also wear
a “beneesh,” or
“benish,” which is a robe of cloth, with long
sleeves, like those of the kauftán, but more ample;
2 it is properly
a
robe of ceremony, and should be worn over the other cloth coat;
but many
persons wear it
instead of the gibbeh. Another robe,
called “farageeyeh,” nearly resembles the beneesh. It has
very
long sleeves, but these are not slit, and it is chiefly worn by
men
of the learned professions. In cold or cool weather, a kind of
black woollen cloak, called “'abáyeh,” is
commonly worn. Sometimes
this is drawn over the head. In winter also many
persons
wrap a muslin or other shawl (such as they use for a turban)
about
the head and shoulders. The head-dress consists, first, of a
small,
close-fitting, cotton cap,
3 which is often changed; next, a
“tarboosh,”
which is a red cloth cap, also fitting
closely to the head,
with a tassel of dark blue silk at the crown; lastly,
a long piece
of white muslin, generally figured, or a Kashmeer shawl, which
is
wound round the tarboosh. Thus is formed the turban. The
Kashmeer
shawl is seldom worn excepting in cool weather. Some
persons wear two or
three tarbooshes, one over another. A
“shereef” (or
descendant of the Prophet) wears a green turban,
or is privileged to do so;
but no other person; and it is not
common for any but a shereef to wear a
bright green dress.
Stockings are not in use; but some few persons, in cold
weather,
wear woollen or cotton socks. The shoes are of thick red
morocco,
pointed and turning up at the toes. Some persons also
wear
inner shoes of soft yellow morocco, and with soles of the
same. The outer
shoes are taken off on stepping upon a carpet
or mat; but not the inner,
for this reason—the former are often
worn turned down at the
heel.
1 See the foremost figure in the accompanying
engraving.
2 See the figure to the left in the same
engraving.
3 Called
“tákeeyeh,” or
“'arakeeyeh.”
On the little finger of the right hand is worn a seal-ring,
4 which
4
“Khátim.”—It is allowable to wear it on a finger of the left hand.

is generally of silver, with a
carnelion, or other stone, upon which
is engraved the wearer's name: the
name is usually accompanied
by the words “his
servant” (signifying “the servant, or worshipper,
of
God”), and often by other words expressive of the person's
trust
in God, etc.
1 The
prophet disapproved of gold;
therefore few Muslims wear gold rings; but the
women have
various ornaments (rings, bracelets, etc.) of that precious
metal.
The seal-ring is used for signing letters and other writings,
and
its impression is considered more valid than the sign-manual.
2
A little ink is dabbed upon it with one of the fingers, and it is
pressed upon the paper, the person who uses it having first
touched his
tongue with another finger and moistened the place
in the paper which is to
be stamped. Almost every person who
can afford it has a seal-ring, even
though he be a servant. The
regular scribes, literary men, and many others,
wear a silver,
brass, or copper “dawáyeh,”
which is a case with receptacles for
ink and pens, stuck in the girdle.
3 Some have, in the
place of
this, or in addition to it, a case-knife or a dagger.
1 See St. John's Gospel iii. 33; and Exodus
xxxix. 30.
2 Therefore, giving the ring to another person
is the utmost mark of confidence.—
See Genesis xli. 42.
3 This is a very ancient custom.—See
Ezekiel ix. 2, 3, II. The dawáyeh is
represented in a cut in
Chapter IX.
The Egyptian generally takes his pipe with him wherever he
goes (unless it
be to the mosque), or has a servant to carry it,
though it is not a common
custom to smoke while riding or walking.
The tobacco-purse he crams into
his bosom, the kuftán
being large, and lapping over in front. A
handkerchief, embroidered
with coloured silks and gold, and neatly folded,
is also
placed in the bosom. Many persons of the middle orders, who
wish to avoid being thought rich, conceal such a dress as I have
described
by a long black gown of cotton, similar to the gown
worn by most persons of
the lower classes.
The costume of the men of the lower orders is very simple.
These, if not of
the very poorest class, wear a pair of drawers, and
a long and full shirt
or gown of blue linen or cotton, or of brown
woollen stuff (the former
called “'eree,” and the latter
“zaaboot”),
open from the neck nearly to the waist,
and having wide sleeves.
4
Over this some wear a white or red woollen girdle. Their turban
is
generally composed of a white, red, or yellow woollen shawl,
or of a piece
of coarse cotton or muslin wound round a tarboosh,
under which is a white
or brown felt cap; but many are so poor

as to have no other cap than the
latter—no turban, nor even
drawers nor shoes, but only the blue
or brown shirt, or merely a
few rags; while many, on the other hand, wear a
sudeyree under
the blue shirt; and some, particularly servants in the
houses of
great men, wear a white shirt, a sudeyree, and a
kuftán or gibbeh,
or both, and the blue shirt over all. The full
sleeves of this
shirt are sometimes drawn up by means of cords, which
pass
round each shoulder and cross behind, where they are tied in a

FELLAHEEN.
knot. This custom is adopted by servants (particularly grooms)
who have cords of crimson or dark-blue silk for this purpose. In
cold
weather many persons of the lower classes wear an 'abáyeh,
like
that before described, but coarser, and sometimes (instead of
being black)
having broad stripes, brown and white, or blue and
white, but the latter
rarely. Another kind of cloak, more full
than the 'abáyeh, of
black or deep-blue woollen stuff, is also very
commonly worn; it is called
“diffeeyeh.”
1 The shoes are of
red or yellow morocco, or of
sheep-skin.
4 The zaaboot is mostly worn in the winter.
1 A kind of blue and white plaid (called
“miláyeh” is also worn by some
men,
but more commonly by women, in the account of whose dress it will be
further described: the men throw it over the shoulders, or wrap it about
the
body.

Several different forms of turbans are represented in some of
the engravings
which illustrate this work. The Muslims are distinguished
by the colours of
their turbans from the Copts and the
Jews, who (as well as other subjects
of the Turkish Sultán who
are not Muslims) wear black, blue,
grey, or light-brown turbans,
and generally dull-coloured dresses. The
distinction of sects,
families, dynasties, etc., among the Muslim Arabs, by
the colour
of the turban and other articles of dress, is of very early
origin.
When the Imáam Ibráheem Ibn-Mohammad,
asserting his pretensions
to the dignity of Khaleefeh,
1 was put to death by
the Umawee
Khaleefeh Marwán, many persons of the family of
El-'Abbás
assumed black clothing in testimony of their sorrow
for his fate;
and hence the black dress and turban (which latter is
now
characteristic, almost solely, of Christian and Jewish tributaries
to
the Osmánlee, or Turkish, Sultán) became the
distinguishing
costume of the Abbásee Khaleefehs, and of their
officers. When
an officer under this dynasty was disgraced, he was made to
wear
a white dress. White was adopted by the false prophet
El-Mukanna',
to distinguish his party from the 'Abbásees; and
the
Fawátim of Egypt (or Khaleefehs of the race of
Fátimeh), as
rivals of the 'Abbásees, wore a white
costume. El-Melik El-Ashraf
Shaabán, a Sultán of
Egypt (who reigned from the year of
the Flight 764 to 778, or A.D. 1362 to
1376), was the first who
ordered the “shereefs” to
distinguish themselves by the green
turban and dress. Some darweeshes of
the sect of the Rifá'ees,
and a few, but very few, other
Muslims, wear a turban of black
woollen stuff, or of a very deep
olive-coloured (almost black)
muslin; but that of the Copts, Jews, etc., is
generally of black
or blue muslin, or linen. There are not many different
forms
of turbans now worn in Egypt: that worn by most of the
servants is
very formal. The kind common among the middle
and higher classes of the
tradesmen and other citizens of the
metropolis and large towns is also very
formal, but less so than
that just before alluded to. The Turkish turban
worn in Egypt
is of a more elegant mode. The Syrian is distinguished by
its
width. The 'Ulama, and men of religion and letters in general,
used to wear, as some do still, one particularly wide and formal,
called a
“mukleh.” The turban is much respected. In the
houses
of the more wealthy classes, there is usually a chair on
which it is placed
at night. This is often sent with the furniture
1 Commonly written by English authors
“Caliph,” or “Khalif.”

of a bride, as it is common for a
lady to have one upon which to
place her head-dress. This kind of chair is
never used for any
other purpose. As an instance of the respect paid to the
turban,
one of my friends mentioned to me that an 'álim
1 being thrown
off
his donkey in a street of this city, his mukleh fell off, and
rolled along
several yards, whereupon the passengers ran after it,
crying,
“Lift up the crown of El-Islám!” while the poor
'álim,
whom no one came to assist, called out in anger,
“Lift up the
sheykh
2 of
El-Islám!”
1 This appellation (of which
“ulama” is the plural) signifies a man of
science
or learning.
2 “Sheykh” here signifies
master, or doctor.
The general form and features of the
women must now
be
described. From the age of about fourteen to that of eighteen
or
twenty, they are generally models of beauty in body and limbs;
and in
countenance most of them are pleasing, and many exceedingly
lovely: but
soon after they have attained their perfect
growth, they rapidly decline;
the bosom early loses all its beauty,
acquiring, from the relaxing nature
of the climate, an excessive
length and flatness in its forms, even while
the face retains its full
charms; and though, in most other respects, time
does not commonly
so soon nor so much deform them, at the age of forty
it
renders many, who in earlier years possessed considerable
attractions,
absolutely ugly. In the Egyptian females, the forms of
womanhood begin to develop themselves about the ninth or tenth
year: at the
age of fifteen or sixteen they generally attain their
highest degree of
perfection. With regard to their complexions,
the same remarks apply to
them as to the men, with only this
difference, that their faces, being
generally veiled when they go
abroad, are not quite so much tanned as those
of the men. They
are characterized, like the men, by a fine oval
countenance;
though, in some instances, it is rather broad. The eyes, with
very
few exceptions, are black, large, and of a long almond-form, with
long and beautiful lashes and an exquisitely soft, bewitching
expression:
eyes more beautiful can hardly be conceived: their
charming effect is much
heightened by the concealment of the
other features (however pleasing the
latter may be), and is
rendered still more striking by a practice universal
among the
females of the higher and middle classes, and very common
among
those of the lower orders, which is that of blackening the edge
of
the eyelids, both above and below the eye, with a black powder
called “kohl.” This is a collyrium commonly composed of
the

smoke-black which is produced by
burning a kind of “liban”—
an aromatic
resin—a species of frankincense, used, I am told, in
preference
to the better kind of frankincense, as being cheaper,
and equally good for
this purpose. Kohl is also prepared of the
smoke-black produced by burning
the shells of almonds. These
two kinds, though believed to be beneficial to
the eyes, are used
merely for ornament; but there are several kinds used
for their

AN EYE ORNAMENTED WITH KOHL.
real or supposed medical properties; particularly the powder of
several kinds of lead ore, to which are often added sarcocolla,
long
pepper, sugar-candy, fine dust of a Venetian sequin, and
sometimes powdered
pearls. Antimony, it is said, was formerly
used for painting the edges of
the eyelids. The kohl is applied
with a small probe, of wood, ivory, or
silver, tapering towards the
end, but blunt. This is moistened, sometimes
with rose water,
then dipped in the powder, and drawn along the edges of the

MUK-HUL'AHS AND MIRWEDS. These are represented on scales of
one-third, and a quarter, of the real size.
eyelids: it is called “mirwed;” and the glass
vessel in which the
kohl is kept “muk-hul'ah.” The
custom of thus ornamenting the
eyes prevailed among both sexes in Egypt in
very ancient times:
this is shown by the sculptures and paintings in the
temples and
tombs of this country; and kohl vessels, with the probes, and
even
with remains of the black powder, have often been found in the
ancient tombs. I have two in my possession. But in many cases

the ancient mode of ornamenting
with the kohl was a little
different from the modern, as shown by the
subjoined sketch: I
have, however, seen this ancient mode practised in the
present
day in the neighbourhood of
Cairo, though I only remember to
have noticed it in two instances. The same custom existed
among the ancient
Greek ladies, and among the Jewish women

ANCIENT VESSEL AND PROBE FOR KOHL.
in early times.
1 The eyes of the Egyptian women are generally
the most beautiful of
their features. Countenances altogether
handsome are far less common among
this race than handsome
figures; but I have seen among them faces
distinguished by a
style of beauty possessing such sweetness of expression,
that they
have struck me as exhibiting the perfection of female
loveliness,
and impressed me with the idea (perhaps not false) that their

AN EYE AND EYEBROW ORNAMENTED WITH KOHL, AS REPRESENTED IN
ANCIENT PAINTINGS.
equals could not be found in any other country. With such eyes
as
many of them have, the face must be handsome, if its other
features be but
moderately well formed.
2 The nose is generally
straight; the lips are mostly rather fuller
than those of the men,
but not in the least degree partaking of the negro
character. The
hair is of that deep, glossy black, which best suits all but
fair
complexions: in some instances it is rather coarse and crisp, but
never woolly.
1 See 2 Kings ix. 30 (where, in our common
version, we find the words,
“painted her face”
for “painted her eyes”), and Ezekiel xxiii. 40.
2 Scissors are often used to reduce the width of
the eye-brows, and to give
them a more arched form.
The females of the higher and middle classes, and many of the

poorer women, stain certain parts
of their hands and feet (which
are, with very few exceptions, beautifully
formed) with the leaves
of the henna tree,
1 which impart a yellowish red, or deep
orange
colour. Many thus dye only the nails of the fingers and toes;
others extend the dye as high as the first joint of each finger and
toe;
some also make a stripe along the next row of joints; and
there are several
other fanciful modes of applying the henna; but
the most common practice is
to dye the tips of the fingers and

HANDS AND FEET STAINED WITH HENNA.
toes as high as the first joint, and the whole of the inside of
the
hand and the sole of the foot;
2 adding, though not always, the
stripe above
mentioned along the middle joints of the fingers, and
a similar stripe a
little above the toes. The henna is prepared
for this use merely by being
powdered and mixed with a little
water, so as to form a paste. Some of this
paste being spread in
the palm of the hand, and on other parts of it which
are to be
dyed, and the fingers being doubled, and their extremities
inserted
1
Lawsonia inermis; also called “Egyptian
privet.”
2 The application of this dye to the palms of
the hands and the soles of the
feet is said to have an agreeable effect
upon the skin; particularly to prevent
its being too tender and
sensitive.


A LADY IN THE DRESS WORN IN PRIVATE.

into the paste in the palm, the
whole hand is tightly bound with
linen, and remains thus during a whole
night. In a similar manner
it is applied to the feet. The colour does not
disappear until
after many days: it is generally renewed after about a
fortnight
or three weeks. This custom prevails not only in Egypt, but
in
several other countries of the East, which are supplied with henna
from the banks of the Nile. To the nails the henna imparts a
more bright,
clear, and permanent colour than to the skin.
When this dye alone is
applied to the nails, or to a larger portion
of the fingers and toes, it
may, with some reason, be regarded as
an embellishment, for it makes the
general complexion of the
hand and foot appear more delicate; but many
ladies stain their
hands in a manner much less agreeable to our taste: by
applying,
immediately after the removal of the paste of henna, another
paste,
composed of quick-lime, common smoke-black, and linseed-oil,
they convert the tint of the henna to a black, or to a blackish
olive hue.
Ladies in Egypt are often seen with their nails stained
with this colour,
or with their fingers of the same dark hue from
the extremity to the first
joint, red from the first to the second
joint, and of the former colour
from the second to the third joint,
with the palm also stained in a similar
manner, having a broad,
dark stripe across the middle, and the rest left
red; the thumb
dark from the extremity to the first joint, and red from the
first
to the second joint. Some, after a more simple fashion, blacken
the ends of the fingers and the whole of the inside of the hand.
Among the females of the lower orders, in the country-towns
and villages of
Egypt, and among the same classes in the metropolis,
but in a less degree,
prevails a custom somewhat similar to
that above described: it consists in
making indelible marks of a
blue or greenish hue upon the face and other
parts, or, at least,
upon the front of the chin, and upon the back of the
right hand,
and often also upon the left hand, the right arm, or both
arms,
the feet, the middle of the bosom, and the forehead: the most
common of these marks made upon the chin and hands are here
represented.
The operation is performed with several needles
(generally seven) tied
together: with these the skin is pricked in
the desired pattern: some
smoke-black (of wood or oil), mixed
with milk from the breast of a woman,
is then rubbed in; and
about a week after, before the skin has healed, a
paste of the
pounded fresh leaves of white beet or clover is applied, and
gives
a blue or greenish colour to the marks: or, to produce the same
effect in a more simple manner, some indigo is rubbed into the

punctures, instead of the
smoke-black, etc. It is generally performed

A TATTOOED GIRL.

SPECIMENS OF TATTOOING ON THE CHIN.

TATTOOED HANDS AND FOOT.
at the age of about five or six years, and by gipsy-women.
The
term applied to it is “dakk.” Most of the females of
the

higher parts of
Upper Egypt, who
are of a very dark complexion,
tattoo their lips instead of the parts
above-mentioned; thus converting
their natural colour to a dull, bluish
hue, which, to the
eye of a stranger, is extremely displeasing.
1
1 The depilatory most commonly used by the
Egyptian women is a kind of
resin, called libán
shámee, applied in a melted state: but this, they pretend,
is not always necessary: by applying the blood of a bat to the skin of a
newly-born
female infant, on the parts where they wish no hair to grow,
they assert
that they accomplish this desire. A female upon whom this
application has
been made is termed “muwatwatah”;
from “watwát,” a bat. Some women
pluck
out the hair after merely rubbing the part with the ashes of
charcoal.
Another characteristic of the Egyptian women that should be
here mentioned
is their upright carriage and gait. This is most
remarkable in the female
peasantry, owing, doubtless, in a great
measure, to their habit of bearing
a heavy earthen water-vessel,
and other burthens, upon the head.
The dress of the women of the middle and higher orders is
handsome and
elegant. Their shirt is very full, like that of the
men—but
rather shorter—reaching not quite to the knees: it is
also,
generally, of the same kind of material as the men's shirt, or of
coloured
crape—sometimes black. A pair of very wide trousers
(called
“shintiyán”), of a coloured striped stuff of
silk and
cotton, or of printed, or worked, or plain white muslin, is
tied
round the hips, under the shirt, with a dikkeh: its lower
extremities
are drawn up and tied just below the knee with running
strings; but it is sufficiently long to hang down to the feet, or
almost to
the ground, when attached in this manner. Over the
shirt and
shintiyán is worn a long vest (called “yelek”),
of the
same material as the latter: it nearly resembles the
kuftán of the
men; but is more tight to the body and arms: the
sleeves also
are longer; and it is made to button down the front, from
the
bosom to a little below the girdle, instead of lapping over: it is
open, likewise, on each side, from the height of the hip, downwards.
In
general the yelek is cut in such a manner as to leave
half of the bosom
uncovered, except by the shirt; but many
ladies have it made more ample at
that part: and, according to
the most approved fashion, it should be of a
sufficient length to
reach to the ground, or should exceed that length by
two of
three inches, or more. A short vest (called
“'anter'ee”), reaching
only a little below the waist,
and exactly resembling a yelek
of which the lower part has been cut off, is
sometimes worn
instead of the latter. A square shawl, or an embroidered
kerchief,

doubled diagonally, is put loosely
round the waist as a girdle;
the two corners that are folded together
hanging down behind.
Over the yelek is worn a gibbeh of cloth, or velvet,
or silk, usually
embroidered with gold or with coloured silk: it differs in
form
from the gibbeh of the men chiefly in being not so wide;

A LADY ADORNED WITH THE KURS AND SAFA, ETC. (The Hand is
partially stained with Henna.)
particularly in the fore part; and is of the same length as the
yelek. Instead of this, a jacket (called “saltah”),
generally of
cloth or velvet, and embroidered in the same manner as
the
gibbeh, is often worn. The head-dress consists of a tákeeyeh
and
tarboosh, with a square kerchief (called
“faroodeeyeh”) of printed

or painted muslin, or one of crape,
wound tightly round, composing
what is called a
“rabtah.” Two or more such kerchiefs were
commonly
used, a short time since, and are still sometimes, to
form the ladies'
turban, but always wound in a high, flat shape,
very different from that of
the turban of the men. A kind of
crown, called
“kurs,” and other ornaments, are attached to the
ladies' head-dress: descriptions and engravings of these and
other
ornaments of the women of Egypt will be found in the
Appendix to this work.
A long piece of white muslin embroidered
at each end with coloured silks
and gold, or of coloured crape
ornamented with gold thread, etc., and
spangles, rests upon the
head, and hangs down behind, nearly or quite to
the ground: this
is called “tarhah”—it is
the head-veil: the face-veil I shall presently
describe. The hair,
excepting over the forehead and
temples, is divided into numerous braids or
plaits, generally from
eleven to twenty-five in number, but always of an
uneven number:
these hang down the back. To each
braid of hair are usually
added three black silk cords, with little
ornaments of gold, etc.,
attached to them. For a description of these,
which are called
“safa,” I refer to the Appendix.
Over the forehead the hair is
cut rather short; but two full locks hang
down on each side
of the face: these are often curled in ringlets, and
sometimes
plaited.
1 Few of the ladies of Egypt wear stockings or socks,
but many of
them wear “
mezz” (or inner shoes),
of yellow or
red morocco, sometimes embroidered with gold: over these,
whenever they step off the matted or carpeted part of the floor,
they put
on “báboog” (or slippers) of yellow morocco,
with high,
pointed toes; or use high wooden clogs or pattens,
generally
from four to nine inches in height, and usually ornamented
with
mother-of-pearl, or silver, etc. These are always used in the
bath
by men and women; but not by many ladies at home: some ladies
wear them merely to keep their skirts from trailing on the ground:
others,
to make themselves appear tall.—Such is the dress which
is worn
by the Egyptian ladies in the house.
1 Egyptian women swear by the side-lock (as men
do by the beard), generally
holding it when they utter the oath,
“Wa-hayát maksoosee!”
The riding or walking attire is called “tezyeereh.”
Whenever
a lady leaves the house, she wears, in addition to what has
been
above described, first a large, loose gown (called
“tób,” or
“sebleh”),
the sleeves of which are nearly equal in width to the
whole length of the
gown:
2 it is of
silk; generally of a pink, or
2 This is similar in form to the tób
of women of the lower orders.

rose, or violet colour. Next is put
on the “burko',” or face-veil,
which is a long strip
of white muslin, concealing the whole of the
face except the eyes, and
reaching nearly to the feet. It is suspended
at the top by a narrow band,
which passes up the forehead,
and which is sewed, as are also the two upper
corners of the veil,
to a band that is tied round the head. The lady then
covers
herself with a “habarah,” which, for a married
lady, is composed
of two breadths of glossy, black silk, each ell-wide, and three

LADY ATTIRED FOR RIDING OR WALKING.
yards long: these are sewed together, at or near the selvages
(according to the height of the person); the seam running horizontally,
with respect to the manner in which it is worn: a piece
of narrow black
riband is sewed inside the upper part, about six
inches from the edge, to
tie round the head. This covering is
always worn in the manner shown by the
accompanying sketch.
The unmarried ladies wear a habarah of white silk, or
a shawl.

Some females of the middle classes,
who cannot afford to purchase
a habarah, wear instead of it an
“eezár”; which is a piece of
white calico,
of the same form and size as the former, and is worn
in the same manner. On
the feet are worn short boots or
socks (called
“khuff”), of yellow morocco, and over these the
“báboog.”
This dress, though chiefly designed for females of the higher
classes, who
are seldom seen in public on foot, is worn by many
women who cannot often
afford so far to imitate their superiors
as to hire an ass to carry them.
It is extremely inconvenient as
a walking attire. Viewing it as a disguise
for whatever is attractive
or graceful in the person and adornments of the
wearer, we should
not find fault with it for being itself deficient in
grace: we must
remark, however, that, in one respect, it fails in
accomplishing its
main purpose; displaying the eyes, which are almost
always beautiful;
making them to appear still more so by concealing the
other
features, which are seldom of equal beauty; and often causing
the
stranger to imagine a defective face perfectly charming. The
veil
is of very remote antiquity;
1 but, from the sculptures and
paintings of the ancient
Egyptians, it seems not to have been
worn by the females of that nation.
1 See Genesis xxiv. 65; and Isaiah iii. 23. See
also I Corinthians xi. 10,
and a marginal note on that verse.
The dress of a large proportion of those women of the lower
orders who are
not of the poorest class consists of a pair of
trousers or drawers (similar
in form to the shintiyán of the ladies,
but generally of plain
white cotton or linen), a blue linen or
cotton shirt (not quite so full as
that of the men), a burko' of a
kind of coarse black crape,
2 and a dark blue
tarhah of muslin or
linen. Some wear over the shirt, or instead of the
latter, a linen
tób, of the same form as that of the ladies. The
sleeves of this
are often turned up over the head; either to prevent their
being
incommodious, or to supply the place of a tarhah. In addition
to
these articles of dress, many women who are not of the very
poor classes
wear, as a covering, a kind of plaid, similar in form
to the habarah,
composed of two pieces of cotton, woven in small
chequers of blue and
white, or cross stripes, with a mixture of
red at each end. It is called
“miláyeh:”
3 in general it is worn
in the same
manner as the habarah; but sometimes like the
2 Some of those who are descended from the
Prophet wear a green burko'.

tarhah.
1 The upper part of the black burko' is
often ornamented
with false pearls, small gold coins, and other little flat
ornaments
of the same metal (called “bark”);
sometimes with a coral bead,
and a gold coin beneath; also with small coins
of base silver;
and more commonly with a pair of chain tassels, of brass
or
silver (called “'oyoon”), attached to the corners.
A square

FELLAH WOMEN.
black silk kerchief (called “'asbeh”), with a
border of red and
yellow, is bound round the head, doubled diagonally, and
tied
with a single knot behind; or, instead of this, the tarboosh and

faroodeeyeh are worn, though by
very few women of the lower
classes. The best kind of shoes worn by the
females of the lower
orders are of red morocco, turned up, but round at the
toes.
The burko' and shoes are most common in
Cairo, and are also
worn
by many of the women throughout
Lower Egypt; but in
Upper Egypt, the burko'
is very seldom seen, and shoes are
scarcely less uncommon. To supply the
place of the former,
when necessary, a portion of the tarhah is drawn
before the face,

ORNAMENTED BLACK VEILS. Only one of these (that to the right) is
represented in its whole length.
so as to conceal nearly all the countenance excepting one eye.
Many of the women of the lower orders, even in the metropolis,
never
conceal their faces. Throughout the greater part of Egypt
the most common
dress of the women merely consists of the blue
shirt, or tób,
and tarhah. In the southern parts of Upper
Egypt, chiefly above Akhmeem,
most of the women envelop
themselves in a large piece of dark brown woollen
stuff (called a
“hulaleeyeh”), wrapping it round the
body, and attaching the

upper parts together over each
shoulder;
1 and a
piece of the
same they use as a tarhah. This dull dress, though
picturesque,
is almost as disguising as the blue tinge which, as I have
before
mentioned, the women in these parts of Egypt impart to their
lips. Most of the women of the lower orders wear a variety of
trumpery
ornaments, such as ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, etc.,
and sometimes a
nose-ring. Descriptions and engravings of some
of these ornaments will be
given in the Appendix.
1 There is a superior kind of
miláyeh, of silk, and of various colours; but
this is now
seldom worn. The two pieces which compose the miláyeh are
sewed together, like those which compose the habarah.
1 The classical reader will recognise, in this
picturesque garment, an article
of ancient Greek and Roman female
attire.
The women of Egypt deem it more incumbent upon them to
cover the upper and
back part of the head than the face; and
more requisite to conceal the face
than most other parts of the
person. I have often seen, in this country,
women but half
covered with miserable rags; and several times, females in
the
prime of womanhood, and others in more advanced age, with
nothing
on the body but a narrow strip of rag bound round the
hips.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER II.
INFANCY AND EARLY EDUCATION.
In the rearing and general treatment of their
children, the
Muslims are chiefly guided by the directions of their
Prophet,
and other religious institutors. One of the first duties
required
to be performed on the birth of a child is to pronounce the
adán
(or call to prayer) in the infant's right ear; and this
should be
done by a male. Some persons also pronounce the ikámeh
(which
is nearly the same as the adán) in the left ear. The
object of
each of these ceremonies is to preserve the infant from the
influence of the ginn, or genii. Another custom, observed with
the same
view, is to say, “In the name of the Prophet and of
his
cousin
2
'Alee!”
2 Literally, “the son of his paternal
uncle.”
It was a custom very common in Egypt, as in other Muslim
countries, to
consult an astrologer previously to giving a name to
a child, and to be
guided by his choice; but very few persons

now conform with this old usage:
the father makes choice of a
name for his son, and confers it without any
ceremony; a daughter
is generally named by her mother. Boys are often named
after
the Prophet (Mohammad, Ahmad, or Mustaf'a), or some of the
members of his family ('Alee, Hasan, Hoseyn, etc.), or his eminent
companions ('Omar, 'Osmán, 'Amr, etc.), or some of the prophets
and patriarchs of early times (as Ibráheem, Is-hák,
Isma'eel,
Yaakoob, Moosa, Dáood, Suleymán, etc.), or
receive a name
signifying “Servant of God,”
“Servant of the Compassionate,”
“Servant
of the Powerful,” etc. ('Abd-Allah, 'Abd-er-Rahmán,
'Abd-el-Kádir). Girls are mostly named after the wives or the
favourite daughter of the Arabian Prophet, or after others of his
family
(as Khadeegeh, 'A'ïsheh, A'm'neh, Fát'meh, Zeyneb),
or
are distinguished by a name implying that they are
“beloved,”
“blessed,”
“precious,” etc. (Mahboobeh, Mebrookeh, Nefeeseh,
etc.) or the name of a flower, or of some other pleasing object.
1
1 In Cairo, it is the fashion to change the
first five female names here mentioned,
and the last, into Khaddoogeh,
'Eiyoosheh, Ammooneh, Fattoomeh,
Zennoobeh, and Neffooseh; and some
other names are changed to the same
“measure” as
these; which measure implies, in these cases, a superior degree
of
dignity.
As the proper name does not necessarily or generally descend
from parent to
child, persons are usually distinguished by one or
more surnames, of the
following kinds:—a surname of relationship;
as
“Aboo-'Alee”
2 (Father of 'Alee), “Ibn-Ahmad”
(Son
of Ahmad), etc.:—a surname of honour, or a nickname;
as
“Noor-ed-Deen” (The Light of the Religion),
“Et-Taweel”
(The Tall), etc.:—an
appellation relating to country, birth-place,
origin, family, sect, trade
or occupation, etc.; as “Er-Rasheedee”
(of the town
of Rasheed), “Es-Sabbágh” (The Dyer),
“Et-Tágir”
(The Merchant). The second kind
of surname, and that
relating to country, etc., are often inherited; thus
becoming
family-names. Each kind of surname is now generally placed
after the proper name.
2 On an improper use of this kind of surname,
see a note towards the close
of Chapter IV.
The dress of the children of the middle and higher orders is
similar to that
of the parents, but generally slovenly. The children
of the poor are either
clad in a shirt and a cotton skull-cap
or a tarboosh, or (as is mostly the
case in the villages) are left
quite naked until the age of six or seven
years or more, unless a
bit of rag can be easily obtained to serve them as
a partial covering.

Those little girls who have only a
piece of ragged stuff not
large enough to cover both the head and body
generally prefer
wearing it upon the head, and sometimes have the coquetry
to
draw a part of it before the face, as a veil, while the whole body
is exposed. Little ladies, four or five years of age, mostly wear
the white
face veil, like their mothers. When a boy is two or
three years old, or
often earlier, his head is shaven; a tuft of hair
only being left on the
crown, and another over the forehead,
1
the heads of female infants are seldom shaven. The young children,
of
both sexes, are usually carried by their mothers and
nurses, not in the
arms, but on the shoulder, seated astride:
2 and
sometimes, for a short distance, on the hip.
1 It is customary among the peasants throughout
a great part of Egypt, on
the first occasion of shaving a child's head,
to slay a victim, generally a goat,
at the tomb of some saint in or
near their village, and to make a feast with
the meat, of which their
friends, and any other persons who please, partake.
This is most common
in Upper Egypt, and among the tribes not very long
established on the
banks of the Nile. Their Pagan ancestors in Arabia observed
this
custom, and usually gave, as alms to the poor, the weight of the
hair
in silver or gold. The victim is called “'akeekah,”
and is offered as a
ransom for the child from hell. The custom of
shaving one part of a child's
head and leaving another was forbidden by
the Prophet.
In the treatment of their children, the women of the wealthier
classes are
remarkable for their excessive indulgence; and the
poor, for the little
attention they bestow, beyond supplying the
absolute wants of nature. The
mother is prohibited, by the
Muslim law, from weaning her child before the
expiration of two
years from the period of its birth, unless with the
consent of her
husband, which, I am told, is generally given after the
first year
or eighteen months. In the houses of the wealthy, the
child,
whether boy or girl, remains almost constantly confined in the
hareem (or the woman's apartments), or, at least, in the house:
sometimes
the boy continues thus an effeminate prisoner until a
master, hired to
instruct him daily, has taught him to read and
write. But it is important
to observe, that an affectionate respect
for parents and elders inculcated
in the hareem fits the boy for an
abrupt introduction into the world, as
will presently be shown.
When the ladies go out to pay a visit, or to take
an airing,
mounted on asses, the children generally go with them, each
carried by a female slave or servant, or seated between her knees
upon the
fore part of the saddle; the female attendants, as well
as the ladies,
being usually borne by asses, and it being the custom

of all the women to sit astride.
But it is seldom that the
children of the rich enjoy this slight diversion;
their health suffers
from confinement and pampering, and they are often
rendered
capricious, proud, and selfish. The women of the middle
classes
are scarcely less indulgent mothers. The estimation in which
the
wife is held by her husband, and even by her acquaintance,
depends, in a great degree, upon her fruitfulness, and upon the
preservation of her children; for by men and women, rich and
poor,
barrenness is still considered, in the East, a curse and a
reproach; and it
is regarded as disgraceful in a man to divorce,
without some cogent reason,
a wife who has borne him a child,
especially while her child is living. If,
therefore, a woman desire
her husband's love, or the respect of others, her
giving birth to a
child is a source of great joy to herself and him, and
her own
interest alone is a sufficient motive for maternal tenderness.
Very little expense is required, in Egypt, for the maintenance of
a
numerous offspring.
1
1 It is mentioned by Diodorus Siculus (lib. i.,
cap. 20), that the ancient
Egyptians clothed and reared their children
at a very trifling expense.
However much the children are caressed and fondled, in general
they feel and
manifest a most profound and praiseworthy respect
for their parents.
Disobedience to parents is considered by the
Muslims as one of the greatest
of sins, and classed, in point of
heinousness, with six other sins, which
are idolatry, murder, falsely
accusing modest women of adultery, wasting
the property of
orphans, taking usury, and desertion in an expedition
against
infidels. An undutiful child is very seldom heard of among the
Egyptians or the Arabs in general. Among the middle and higher
classes, the
child usually greets the father in the morning by kissing
his hand, and
then stands before him in an humble attitude,
with the left hand covered by
the right, to receive any order, or to
await his permission to depart; but
after the respectful kiss, is
often taken on the lap; and nearly the same
respect is shown
towards the mother. Other members of the family,
according
to age, relationship, and station, are also similarly regarded by
the
young; and hence arise that ease and propriety with which a
child,
emerging from the hareem, conducts himself in every
society, and that
loyalty which is often improperly regarded as
the result of Eastern
despotism.
2 Sons
scarcely ever sit, or eat,
or smoke, in the presence of the father, unless
bidden to do so;
2 “The structure of Eastern
government is but the enlargement of the
paternal roof.”
(Urquhart's Spirit of the East, vol. ii., p. 249.)

and they often even wait upon him,
and upon his guests, at meals
and on other occasions: they do not cease to
act thus when they
have become men.—I once partook of breakfast
with an Egyptian
merchant, before the door of his house, in the month of
Ramadán
(and therefore a little after sunset); and though every
person who
passed by, however poor, was invited to partake of the meal,
we
were waited upon by two of my host's sons; the elder about forty
years of age. As they had been fasting during the whole of the
day, and had
as yet only taken a draught of water, I begged the
father to allow them to
sit down and eat with us: he immediately
told them that they might do so;
but they declined.—The mothers
generally enjoy, in a greater
degree than the fathers, the affection
of their children; though they do
not receive from them equal
outward marks of respect. I have often known
servants to
hoard their wages for their mothers, though seldom for
their
fathers.
With the exception of those of the wealthier classes, the young
children in
Egypt, though objects of so much solicitude, are
generally very dirty, and
shabbily clad. The stranger here is disgusted
by the sight of them, and at
once condemns the modern
Egyptians as a very filthy people, without
requiring any other
reason for forming such an opinion of them; but it is
often the
case that those children who are most petted and beloved are
the
dirtiest, and worst clad. It is not uncommon to see, in the city
in which I am writing, a lady shuffling along in her ample tób
and habarah of new and rich and glistening silks, and one who
scents the
whole street with the odour of musk or civet as she
passes along, with all
that appears of her person scrupulously clean
and delicate, her eyes neatly
bordered with kohl applied in the
most careful manner, and the tip of a
finger or two showing the
fresh dye of the henna, and by her side a little
boy or girl, her
own child, with a face besmeared with dirt, and with
clothes
appearing as though they had been worn for months without
being washed. Few things surprised me so much as sights of this
kind on my
first arrival in this country. I naturally inquired the
cause of what
struck me as so strange and inconsistent, and
was informed that the
affectionate mothers thus neglected the
appearance of their children, and
purposely left them unwashed,
and clothed them so shabbily, particularly
when they had to take
them out in public,
from fear of
the evil eye, which is excessively
dreaded, and especially in the
case of children, since they are
generally esteemed the greatest of
blessings, and therefore most

likely to be coveted. It is partly
for the same reason that many
of them confine their boys so long in the
hareem. Some mothers
even dress their young sons as girls, because the
latter are less obnoxious
to envy.
The children of the poor have a yet more neglected appearance:
besides being
very scantily clad, or quite naked, they are,
in general, excessively
dirty: their eyes are frequently extremely
filthy: it is common to see half
a dozen or more flies in each eye,
unheeded and unmolested. The parents
consider it extremely
injurious to wash, or even touch, the eyes, when they
discharge
that acrid humour which attracts the flies: they even affirm
that
the loss of sight would result from frequently touching or
washing
them when thus affected; though washing is really one of the
best
means of alleviating the complaint.
At the age of about five or six years, or sometimes later, the
boy is
circumcised.
1
Previously to the performance of this rite
in the metropolis and other
towns of Egypt, the parents of the
youth, if not in indigent circumstances,
generally cause him to be
paraded through several streets in the
neighbourhood of their
dwelling. They mostly avail themselves of the
occurrence of a
bridal procession, to lessen the expenses of the parade:
and, in
this case, the boy and his attendants lead the procession. He
generally wears a red Kashmeer turban; but, in other respects, is
dressed
as a girl, with a yelek and saltah, and with a kurs, safa,
and other female
ornaments, to attract the eye, and so divert it
from his person.
2 These articles of dress
are of the richest
description that can be procured: they are usually
borrowed from
some lady, and much too large to fit the boy. A horse,
handsomely
caparisoned, is also borrowed to convey him; and in his
hand is placed a folded embroidered handkerchief, which he constantly
holds
before his mouth in his right hand, to hide part of
his face, and thus
protect himself from the evil eye. He is
preceded by a servant of the
barber, who is the operator, and by
three or more musicians, whose
instruments are commonly a hautboy
and drums. The foremost person in the
procession is
generally the barber's servant, bearing his
“heml,” which is a
case of wood, of a
semi-cylindrical form, with four short legs; its
front (the flat surface)
covered with pieces of looking-glass and
1 Among the peasants, not unfrequently at the
age of twelve, thirteen, or
fourteen years.
2 For a description of the ornaments here
mentioned see the Appendix: the
kurs and safa are also represented in a
preceding engraving, page 36.

embossed brass; and its back, with
a curtain. This is merely
the barber's sign: the servant carries it in the
manner represented
in the engraving here inserted. The musicians follow
next (or
some of them precede the “heml”), and then
follows the boy;
his horse led by a groom. Behind him walk several of his
female
relations and friends. Two boys are often paraded together, and
sometimes borne by one horse. Of the bridal processions, with
which that
above described is so often united, an account will be
found in the proper
place. A description, also, of some further
customs observed on the
occasion of a circumcision, and particularly
of a more genteel but less
general mode of celebrating that
event, will be given in another chapter,
relating to various private
festivities.
1
1 A custom mentioned by Strabo (p. 824), as
prevailing among the
Egyptians in his time, is still universally
practised in every part of Egypt,
both by the Muslims and Copts,
excepting in Alexandria and perhaps a few
other places on the shore of
the Mediterranean: it is also common, if not
equally prevalent, in
Arabia. Reland, who imperfectly describes this custom
(De Religione
Mohammedica, p. 75, edit. 1717), remarks its being mentioned
likewise
by Galen.
The parents seldom devote much of their time or attention to
the
intellectual education of their children; generally contenting
themselves
with instilling into their young minds a few principles
of religion, and
then submitting them, if they can afford to do so,
to the instruction of a
schoolmaster. As early as possible, the
child is taught to say,
“I testify that there is no deity but God;
and I testify that
Mohammad is God's Apostle.” He receives
also lessons of
religious pride, and learns to hate the Christians,
and all other sects but
his own, as thoroughly as does the Muslim
in advanced age. Most of the
children of the higher and middle
classes, and some of those of the lower
orders, are taught by the
schoolmaster to read, and to recite and chant
2 the whole or
certain portions of the Kur-án by memory. They afterwards
learn
the most common rules of arithmetic.
2 See the Chapter on music.
Schools are very numerous, not only in the metropolis, but in
every large
town; and there is one, at least, in every considerable
village. Almost
every mosque, “sebeel” (or public fountain),
and
“hód” (or drinking-place for cattle) in the
metropolis has a
“kuttáb” (or school)
attached to it, in which children are instructed
for a very trifling
expense; the “sheykh” or “fikee”
3
3 This term is a corruption of
“fakeeh,” which latter appellation is generally
given in Egypt only to a person deeply versed in religion and law; a
man
who merely recites the Kur-án, etc., professionally, or
who teaches others to
do so, being commonly called a
“fikee.”

PARADE PREVIOUS TO CIRCUMCISION.


(the master of the school)
receiving from the parent of each pupil
half a piaster (about five
farthings of our money), or something
more or less, every Thursday.
1 The master of a
school attached
to a mosque or other public building in
Cairo also
generally
receives yearly a tarboosh, a piece of white muslin for a turban,
a
piece of linen, and a pair of shoes; and each boy receives, at the
same time, a linen skull cap, four or five cubits
2 of cotton cloth,
and perhaps half a
piece (ten or twelve cubits) of linen, and a
pair of shoes, and, in some
cases, half a piaster or a piaster.
These presents are supplied by funds
bequeathed to the school,
and are given in the month of Ramadán.
The boys attend only
during the hours of instruction, and then return to
their homes.
The lessons are generally written upon tablets of wood,
painted
white; and when one lesson is learnt, the tablet is washed and
another is written. They also practise writing upon the same
tablet. The
schoolmaster and his pupils sit upon the ground,
and each boy has his
tablet in his hands, or a copy of the Kur-án,
or of one of its
thirty sections, on a little kind of desk of palmsticks.
All who are
learning to read, recite, or chant their lessons
aloud, at the same time
rocking their heads or bodies incessantly
backwards and forwards; which
practice is observed by almost
all persons in reciting the
Kur-án; being thought to assist the
memory. The noise may be
imagined.
3
1 Friday, being the sabbath of the Muslims, is a
holiday to the school-boys
and fikee.
2 The cubit employed in measuring Egyptian
cloths is equal to twenty-two
inches and two-thirds.
3 The usual punishment is beating on the soles
of the feet with a palm-stick.
The boys first learn the letters of the alphabet; next, the vowel-points
and
other orthographical marks; and then, the numerical
value of each letter of
the alphabet.
4
Previously to this third
stage of the pupil's progress, it is customary for
the master to
ornament the tablet with black and red ink, and green paint,
and
to write upon it the letters of the alphabet in the order of their
respective numerical values, and convey it to the father, who
returns it
with a piaster or two placed upon it. The like is also
done at several
subsequent stages of the boy's progress, as when
he begins to learn the
Kur-án, and six or seven times as he
proceeds in learning the
sacred book; each time the next lesson
being written on the tablet. When he
has become acquainted with
the numerical values of the letters, the master
writes for him some
4 The Arabic letters are often used as numerals.

simple words, as the names of men;
then, the ninety-nine names
or epithets of God: next, the Fat'hah, or
opening chapter of the
Kur-án, is written upon his tablet, and
he reads it repeatedly
until he has perfectly committed it to memory. He
then proceeds
to learn the other chapters of the Kur-án: after
the first chapter
he learns the last; then the last but one; next the last
but two,
and so on, in inverted order, ending with the second; as the
chapters in general successively decrease in length from the second
to the
last inclusively. It is seldom that the master of a school
teaches writing;
and few boys learn to write unless destined for
some employment which
absolutely requires that they should do
so; in which latter case they are
generally taught the art of
writing, and likewise arithmetic, by a
“kabbánee,” who is a
person employed to
weigh goods in a market or bázár, with the
steelyard.
Those who are to devote themselves to religion, or to
any of the learned
professions, mostly pursue a regular course of
study in the great mosque
El-Azhar.
The schoolmasters in Egypt are mostly persons of very little
learning: few
of them are acquainted with any writings except
the Kur-án, and
certain prayers, which, as well as the contents of
the sacred volume, they
are hired to recite on particular occasions.
I was lately told of a man who
could neither read nor write
succeeding to the office of a schoolmaster in
my neighbourhood.
Being able to recite the whole of the Kur-án,
he could hear the
boys repeat their lessons: to write them, he employed
the
“'areef” (or head boy and monitor in the school),
pretending
that his eyes were weak. A few days after he had taken upon
himself this office, a poor woman brought a letter for him to read
to her
from her son, who had gone on pilgrimage. The fikee
pretended to read it,
but said nothing; and the woman, inferring
from his silence that the letter
contained bad news, said to him,
‘Shall I shriek?” He
answered “Yes.” “Shall I tear my
clothes?” she asked: he replied “Yes.” So the
poor woman
returned to her house, and with her assembled friends
performed
the lamentation and other ceremonies usual on the occasion of
a
death. Not many days after this, her son arrived, and she asked
him
what he could mean by causing a letter to be written stating
that he was
dead? He explained the contents of the letter, and
she went to the
schoolmaster and begged him to inform her why
he had told her to shriek and
to tear her clothes, since the letter
was to inform her that her son was
well, and he was now arrived
at home. Not at all abashed, he said,
“God knows futurity!

How could I know that your son
would arrive in safety? It was
better that you should think him dead than
be led to expect to
see him and perhaps be disappointed.” Some
persons who were
sitting with him praised his wisdom, exclaiming,
“Truly, our new
fikee is a man of unusual judgment!”
and, for a little while, he
found that he had raised his reputation by this
blunder.
1
1 I have since found an anecdote almost exactly
similar to the above in the
Cairo edition of the “Thousand
and One Nights:” therefore either my informant's
account is
not strictly true, or the man alluded to by him was, in the
main, an
imitator: the latter is not improbable, as I have been credibly
informed
of several similar imitations, and of one which I know to be a
fact.
Some parents employ a sheykh or fikee to teach their boys
at home. The
father usually teaches his son to perform the
“wudoó,” and other ablutions, and to say his
prayers, and instructs
him in other religious and moral duties to the best
of his
ability. The Prophet directed his followers to order their
children
to say their prayers when seven years of age, and to beat
them if they did not do so when ten years old; and at the latter
age to
make them sleep in separate beds. In Egypt, however,
very few persons pray
before they have attained to manhood.
The female children are very seldom taught to read or write;
and not many of
them, even among the higher orders, learn to
say their prayers. Some of the
rich engage a “sheykhah” (or
learned woman) to visit
the hareem daily; to teach their daughters
and female slaves to say their
prayers, and to recite a few
chapters of the Kur-án; and
sometimes to instruct them in reading
and writing; but these are very rare
accomplishments for
females, even of the highest class in Egypt.
2 There are many
schools in which girls are taught plain needlework, embroidery,
etc. In
families in easy circumstances a “m'allimeh,” or
female
teacher of such kinds of work, is often engaged to attend the
girls
at their own home.
2 The young daughters of persons of the middle
classes are sometimes instructed
with the boys in a public school; but
they are usually veiled, and
hold no intercourse with the boys. I have
often seen a well-dressed girl reading
the Kur-án in a boys'
school.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER III.
RELIGION AND LAWS.
As the most important branch of their education, and the main
foundation of
their manners and customs, the religion and laws
of the people who are the
subject of these pages must be well
understood—not only in their
general principles, but in many
minor points—before we can
proceed to consider their social
condition and habits in the state of
manhood.
A difference of opinion among Muslims, respecting some
points of religion
and law, has given rise to four sects, which
consider each other orthodox
as to fundamental matters, and call
themselves
“Sunnees,” or followers of the traditions; while they
designate all other Muslims by the term “Shiya'ees,”
signifying,
according to their acceptation,
“heretics.” The Sunnees alone
are the class which we
have to consider. The four sects into
which they are divided are the
“Hanafees,” “Sháfe'ees,”
“Málikees,”
and
“Hambel'ees,”—so called from the names of
the
respective doctors whose tenets they have adopted. The Turks
are
of the first sect, which is the most reasonable. The inhabitants
of
Cairo,
a small proportion excepted (who are Hanafees),
are either
Sháfe'ees or Málikees; and it is generally said that
they are mostly of the former of these sects, as are also the people
of
Arabia; those of the Sharkeeyeh, on the east of the Delta,
Sháfe'ees; those of the Gharbeeyeh, or Delta, Sháfe'ees,
with a
few Málikees; those of the Boheyreh, on the west of the
Delta,
Málikees. The inhabitants of the Sa'eed, or the valley of
Upper
Egypt, are likewise, with few exceptions, Málikees; so
also are
the Nubians, and the Western Arabs. To the fourth sect very
few persons in the present day belong. All these sects agree in
deriving
their code of religion and law from four sources; namely,
the
Kur-án, the traditions of the Prophet, the concordance of his
early disciples, and analogy.
The religion which Mohammad taught is generally called by
the Arabs
“El-Islám. “Eemán” and
“Deen” are the particular
terms applied,
respectively, to faith and practical religion.
The grand principles of the faith are expressed in two articles,
the first
of which is this—
“There is no
deity but God.”
God, who created all things in heaven and in earth, who

preserveth all things, and decreeth
all things, who is without
beginning, and without end, omnipotent,
omniscient, and omni-present,
is
one. His unity is
thus declared in a short chapter of
the Kur-án
1: “Say, He is
God; one [God]. God is the Eternal.
He begetteth not, nor is He begotten;
and there is none equal
unto Him.” He hath no partner, nor any
offspring, in the creed
of the Muslim. Though Jesus Christ (whose name
should not
be mentioned without adding, “on whom be
peace”) is believed
to have been born of a pure virgin, by the
miraculous operation
of God,
2 without any natural father, to be the Messiah, and
“the
Word of God, which He transmitted unto Mary, and a
Spirit
[proceeding] from Him,”
3 yet he is not called the Son of God;
and no higher titles are given to him than those of a Prophet and
Apostle;
he is even considered as of inferior dignity to Mohammad,
inasmuch as the
Gospel is held to be superseded by the
Kurán. The Muslim
believes that Seyyidna 'Eesa
4 (or “our
Lord Jesus”), after He had
fulfilled the object of His mission, was
taken up unto God from the Jews,
who sought to slay Him; and
that another person, on whom God had stamped
the likeness of
Christ, was crucified in His stead.
5 He also believes that Christ
is to
come again upon the earth, to establish the Muslim religion,
and perfect
peace and security, after having killed Antichrist, and
to be a sign of the
approach of the last day.
1 Ch. 112.—In quoting passages in the
Kur-án, I have sometimes followed
Sale's translation, to the
general fidelity of which I willingly add my testimony.
I should,
however, mention that some of his explanatory notes are
unauthorized
and erroneous; as, for instance, with respect to the laws of
inheritance;
on which subject his version of the text also is faulty.
When
necessary, I have distinguished the verses by numbers. In doing
this I had
originally adopted the divisions made by Marracci, but have
since made the
numbers to agree with those in the late edition of the
Arabic text by Fluegel,
which, from its superior accuracy, is likely to
supersede the former editions.
2 Kur-án, ch. iii., vv. 40-42.
3 Kur-án, ch. iv., v. 169.
4 The title of “Seyyidna”
(our Lord) is given by the Muslims to prophets
and other venerated
persons.
5 Kur-án, ch. iv., v. 156.
The other grand article of the faith, which cannot be believed
without the
former, is this—
“Mohammad is God's
Apostle.”
Mohammad is believed by his followers to have been the last
and greatest of
Prophets and Apostles.
6
Six of these—namely,
Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, and
Mohammad—are
believed each to have received a revealed law, or
system of religion
6 The Muslim seldom mentions the name of the
Prophet without adding,
“Salla-lláhu 'aleyhi
wa-sellem”; i.e., “God favour
and preserve him!”

and morality. That, however, which
was revealed to Adam
was abrogated by the next; and each succeeding law, or
code of
laws, abrogated the preceding, though all are believed to have
been the same in every essential point; therefore, those who professed
the
Jewish religion from the time of Moses to that of Jesus
were true
believers, and those who professed the Christian religion
(uncorrupted, as
the Muslims say, by the tenet that Christ was
the
son of God) until the time of Mohammad are held, in like
manner, to
have been true believers. But the copies of the
Pentateuch, the Psalms of
David (which the Muslims also hold
to be of divine origin), and the Gospels
now existing, are believed
to have been so much altered as to contain very
little of
the true word of God. The Kur-án is believed to have
suffered
no alteration whatever.
It is further necessary that the Muslim should believe in the
existence of
angels, and of good and evil genii; the evil genii
being devils, whose
chief is Iblees:
1 also,
in the immortality of
the soul, the general resurrection and judgment, in
future rewards
and punishments in Paradise and Hell, in the balance in
which
good and evil works shall be weighed, and in the bridge
“Es-Sirát
(which extends over the midst of Hell,
finer than a hair, and
sharper than the edge of a sword), over which all
must pass, and
from which the wicked shall fall into Hell. He believes,
also, that
they who have acknowledged the faith of El-Islám and
yet acted
wickedly will not remain in Hell for ever; but that all of
other
religions must: that there are, however, degrees of punishments,
as
well as of rewards,—the former consisting in severe torture
by
excessive heat and cold, and the latter, partly in the indulgence
of the appetites by most delicious meats and drinks, and in the
pleasures
afforded by the company of the girls of Paradise, whose
eyes will be very
large and entirely black,
2 and whose stature will
be proportioned to that of the men, which
will be the height of
a tall palm-tree, or about sixty feet. Such, the
Muslims generally
believe, was the height of our first parents. It is said
that the
souls of martyrs reside, until the judgment, in the crops of green
1 In the first edition of this work, I here
mentioned the Devil as distinct
from the genii;
but I have since found that the majority of the most esteemed
Arab
authors are of the contrary opinion. Theirs is also the general opinion
of the modern
Arabs.—The angelic nature is considered as inferior to the
human (because the angels were commanded to prostrate themselves before
Adam), and still more so is the nature of genii.
2 Like those of the gazelle: this meaning of
their common appellation (which
is mentioned afterwards) is, however,
disputed

birds, which eat of the fruits of
paradise and drink of its rivers.
1
Women are not to be excluded from Paradise, according to the
faith of
El-Islám; though it has been asserted, by many Christians,
that
the Muslims believe women to have no souls. In
several places in the
Kur-án, Paradise is promised to all true
believers, whether
males or females. It is the doctrine of the
Kur-án that no
person will be admitted into Paradise by his own
merits; but that admission
will be granted to the believers merely
by the mercy of God, on account of
their faith; yet that the
felicity of each person will be proportioned to
his good works.
The very meanest in Paradise is promised “eighty
thousand servants”
(beautiful youths, called
“weleeds”), “seventy-two wives
of the
girls of Paradise” (“hooreeyehs”),
“besides the wives he
had in this world,” if he
desire to have the latter (and the good
will doubtless desire the good),
“and a tent erected for him of
pearls, jacinths, and emeralds,
of a very large extent;” “and will
be waited on by
three hundred attendants while he eats, and
served in dishes of gold,
whereof three hundred shall be set before
him at once, each containing a
different kind of food, the last
morsel of which will be as grateful as the
first.” Wine also,
“though forbidden in this life,
will yet be freely allowed to be
drunk in the next, and without danger,
since the wine of Paradise
will not inebriate.”
2 We are further told,
that all superfluities
from the bodies of the inhabitants of Paradise will
be carried off
by perspiration, which will diffuse an odour like that of
musk; and
that they will be clothed in the richest silks, chiefly of
green.
They are also promised perpetual youth, and children as many as
they may desire. These pleasures, together with the songs of the
angel
Isráfeel, and many other gratifications of the senses, will
charm even the meanest inhabitant of Paradise. But all these
enjoyments
will be lightly esteemed by those more blessed persons
who are to be
admitted to the highest of all honours—that spiritual
pleasure
of beholding, morning and evening, the face of God.
3—
1 The title of martyr is given to the unpaid
soldier killed in a war for the
defence of the faith, to a person who
innocently meets with his death from the
hand of another, to a victim
of the plague (if he has not fled from the disease)
or of dysentery, to
a person who is drowned, and to one who is killed by the
fall of any
building.
2 See Sale's Preliminary Discourse to his
Translation of the Kur-án, sect, iv.
3 A Muslim of some learning professed to me that
he considered the description
of Paradise given in the
Kur-án to be, in a great measure, figurative:
“like those,” said he, “in the book of the
Revelation of St. John;” and he
assured me that many learned
Muslims were of the same opinion.

The Muslim must also believe in the
examination of the dead
in the sepulchre, by two angels, called Munkar and
Nekeer, of
terrible aspect, who will cause the body (to which the soul
shall,
for the time, be re-united) to sit upright in the grave,
1 and will
question the deceased respecting his faith. The wicked they will
severely
torture; but the good they will not hurt. Lastly, he
should believe in
God's absolute decree of every event, both good
and evil. This doctrine has
given rise to as much controversy
among the Muslims as among Christians;
but the former,
generally, believe in predestination as, in some respects,
conditional.
1 The corpse is always deposited in a vault, and
not placed in a coffin, but
merely wrapped in winding-sheets or
clothes.
The most important duties enjoined in the ritual and moral
laws and prayer, alms-giving,
fasting, and pilgrimage.
The religious
purifications, which are of two
kinds,—first, the
ordinary ablution preparatory to
prayer, and secondly, the washing
of the whole body,
together with the performance of the former
ablution,—are of
primary importance: for prayer, which is a duty
so important that it is
called “the Key of Paradise,” will not be
accepted
from a person in a state of uncleanness. It is therefore
also necessary to
avoid impurity by clipping the nails, and other
similar practices.
2
2 Alluded to in the first chapter.
There are partial washings, or purifications, which all Muslims
perform on
certain occasions, even if they neglect their prayers,
and which are
considered as religious acts.
3 The ablution called
“el-wudoó,” which is preparatory to prayer, I
shall now describe.
The purifications just before alluded to are a part of
the wudoó:
the other washings are not, of necessity, to be
performed immediately
after, but only when the person is about to say his
prayers;
and these are performed in the mosque or in the house, in
public or in private. There is in every mosque a tank (called
“meydaäah”) or a
“hanafeeyeh,” which is a raised reservoir, with
spouts round it, from which the water falls. In some mosques
there are both
these. The Muslims of the Hanafee sect (of which
are the Turks) perform the
ablution at the latter (which has received
its name from that cause); for
they must do it with running
water, or from a tank or pool at least ten
cubits in breadth,
3 For an account of these private ablutions, and
the occasions which require
their performance, the reader may consult
Reland, De Rel. Moh., pp. 80-83,
ed. 1717.

and the same in depth; and I
believe that there is only one
meydaäh in
Cairo of that depth,
which is in the great mosque
El-Azhar. A small hanafeeyeh of tinned copper,
placed on a low
shelf, and a large basin, or a small ewer and basin of the
same
metal, are generally used in the house for the performance of the
wudoó.
The person, having tucked up his sleeves a little higher than
his elbows,
says, in a low voice, or inaudibly, “I purpose performing
the
wudoó, for prayer.”
1 He then washes his hands
three times; saying, in
the same manner as before, “In the
name of God, the
Compassionate, the Merciful! Praise be to
God, who hath sent down water for
purification, and made
El-Islám to be a light and a conductor,
and a guide to Thy
gardens, the gardens of delight, and to Thy mansion, the
mansion
of peace.” Then he rinses his mouth three times,
throwing the
water into it with his right hand;
2 and in doing this he says,
“O God, assist me in the reading of Thy book, and in
commemorating
Thee, and in thanking Thee, and in worshipping
Thee
well!” Next, with his right hand, he throws water up
his
nostrils (snuffing it up at the same time), and then blows it
out,
compressing his nostrils with the thumb and finger of the
left hand; and this also is done three times. While doing
it, he
says, “O God, make me to smell the odours of Paradise,
and
bless me with its delights; and make me not to smell the smell
of
the fires [of Hell].” He then washes his face three times,
throwing up the water with both hands, and saying, “O God,
whiten my face with Thy light, on the day when Thou shalt
whiten the faces
of Thy favourites; and do not blacken my face,
on the day when Thou shalt
blacken the faces of Thine enemies.”
3
His right hand and arm, as high as the elbow, he next washes
three
times, and as many times causes some water to run along
his arm, from the
palm of the hand to the elbow, saying, as he
does this, “O God,
give me my book in my right hand;
4 and
1 All persons do not use exactly the same words
on this occasion, nor
during the performance of the wudoó;
and most persons use no words during
the performance.
2 He should also use a tooth-stick
(miswák) to clean his teeth; but few
do so.
3 It is believed that the good man will rise to
judgment with his face white;
and the bad, with his face black. Hence a
man's face is said to be white or
black according as he is in good or
bad repute; and “may God blacken thy
face!” is a
common imprecation.
4 To every man is appropriated a book, in which
all the actions of his life
are written. The just man, it is said, will
receive his book in his right hand;
but the wicked, in his left, which
will be tied behind his back; his right hand
being tied up to his neck.

reckon with me with an easy
reckoning.” In the same manner
he washes the left hand and arm,
saying, “O God, do not give
me my book in my left hand, nor
behind my back; and do not
reckon with me with a difficult reckoning; nor
make me to be
one of the people of the fire.” He next draws his
wetted right
hand over the upper part of his head, raising his turban or
cap
with his left: this he does but once; and he accompanies the
action with this supplication, “O God, cover me with Thy mercy,
and pour down Thy blessing upon me; and shade me under the
shadow of Thy
canopy, on the day when there shall be no shade
but its shade.”
If he have a beard, he then combs it with the
wetted fingers of his right
hand; holding his hand with the palm
forwards, and passing the fingers
through his beard from the
throat upwards. He then puts the tips of his
fore-fingers into
his ears, and twists them round, passing his thumbs at
the same
time round the back of the ears, from the bottom upwards; and
saying, “O God, make me to be of those who hear what is said,
and obey what is best;” or, “O God, make me to hear
good.”
Next he wipes his neck with the back of the fingers of
both
hands, making the ends of his fingers meet behind his neck, and
then drawing them forward; and in doing so, he says, “O God,
free my neck from the fire; and keep me from the chains, and
the collars,
and the fetters.” Lastly, he washes his feet, as high
as the
ankles, and passes his fingers between the toes: he washes
the right foot
first, saying, at the same time, “O God, make firm
my feet upon
the Sirát, on the day when feet shall slip upon it:”
on washing the left foot, he says, “O God, make my labour to
be
approved, and my sin forgiven, and my works accepted,
merchandise that
shall not perish, by Thy pardon, O Mighty!
O very Forgiving! by Thy mercy,
O most Merciful of those who
show mercy!” After having thus
completed the ablution, he
says, looking towards heaven, “Thy
perfection, O God! [I extol]
with Thy praise: I testify that there is no
deity but Thou alone:
Thou hast no companion: I implore Thy forgiveness,
and turn to
Thee with repentance.” Then looking towards the
earth, he
adds, “I testify that there is no deity but God: and I
testify that
Mohammad is His servant and His apostle.” Having
uttered
these words, he should recite, once, twice, or three times,
the
“Soorat el-Kadr,” or 97th chapter of the
Kur-án.

The wudoó is generally performed in less than two minutes;
most
persons hurrying through the act, as well as omitting almost
all the
prayers, etc., which should accompany and follow the
actions. It is not
required before each of the five daily prayers,
when the person is
conscious of having avoided every kind of
impurity
since the last performance of this ablution. When water
cannot be easily
procured, or would be injurious to the health of
the individual, he may
perform the ablution with dust or sand.
This ceremony is called
“tayemmum.” The person, in this case,
strikes the
palms of his hands upon any dry dust or sand (it will
suffice to do so upon
his cloth robe, as it must contain some
dust), and, with both hands, wipes
his face: then, having struck
his hands again upon the dust, he wipes his
right hand and arm
as high as the elbow; and then, the left hand and arm,
in the
same manner. This completes the ceremony. The washing of
the
whole body is often performed merely for the sake of cleanliness;
but not
as a religious act, excepting on particular occasions—
as on the
morning of Friday, and on the two grand festivals, etc.,
1
when it is called “ghusl.”
1 Here, again, I must beg to refer the reader
(if he desires such information)
to Reland's account of the ghusl, and
the occasions which require its performance.—
De Rel. Moh.,
pp. 66-77, ed. 1717.
Cleanliness is required not only in the worshipper, but also in
the ground,
mat, carpet, robe, or whatever else it be, upon which
he prays. Persons of
the lower orders often pray upon the bare
ground, which is considered clean
if it be dry; and they seldom
wipe off immediately the dust which adheres
to the nose and
forehead in prostration; for it is regarded as ornamental
to the
believer's face: but when a person has a cloak or any other
garment that he can take off without exposing his person in an
unbecoming
manner, he spreads it upon the ground to serve as a
prayer-carpet. The rich
use a prayer-carpet (called “seggádeh”)
about the size of a wide hearth-rug, having a niche represented
upon it,
the point of which is turned towards Mekkeh.
2 It is
reckoned sinful to pass near before a
person engaged in prayer.
2 Seggádeshs, of the kind here
described, are now sold in London, under
the name of Persian carpets or
Persian rugs.
Prayer is called “salah.” Five
times in the course of every
day is its performance required of the Muslim:
but there are
comparatively few persons in Egypt who do not sometimes,
or
often, neglect this duty; and many who scarcely ever pray.
Certain
portions of the ordinary prayers are called “fard,”
which

are appointed by the
Kur-án; and others, “sunneh,” which are
appointed by the Prophet, without allegation of a divine order.
The first time of prayer commences at the “maghrib,”
or
sunset,
1 or
rather, about four minutes later; the second, at the
“'eshë,” or nightfall, when the evening has
closed, and it is quite
dark;
2 the third, at the “subh” or
“fegr;”
i.e., daybreak;
3
the fourth, at the “duhr,” or noon, or, rather, a
little later, when
the sun has begun to decline; the fifth, at the
“'asr,” or afternoon;
i.e., about mid-time between noon and nightfall.
4 Each
period of
prayer ends when the next commences, excepting that
of daybreak, which ends
at sunrise. The Prophet would not
have his followers commence their prayers
at sunrise, nor exactly
at noon or sunset, because, he said, infidels
worshipped the sun
at such times.
1 I have called this the first, because the
Mohammadan day commences
from sunset; but the morning prayer is often
termed the first; the prayer of
noon, the second; and so on.
2 The 'eshë of the
Sháfe'ees, Málikees, and Hambel'ees, is when the
red
gleam (“esh-shafak el-ahmar”) after sunset
has disappeared; and that of the
Hanafees, when both the red and the
white gleam have disappeared.
3 Generally on the first faint appearance of
light in the east. The Hanafees
mostly perform the morning-prayer a
little later, when the yellow gleam
(“el-isfirár”) appears: this they deem the
most proper time, but they may
pray earlier.
4 The 'asr, according to the
Sháfe'ees, Málikees, and Hambel'ees, is when
the
shade of an object, cast by the sun, is equal to the length of that
object,
added to the length of the shade which the same object casts at
noon; and,
according to the Hanafees, when the shadow is equal to twice the length of
the object added to the
length of its mid day shadow.
Should the time of prayer arrive when they are eating, or about
to eat, they
are not to rise to prayer till they have finished their
meal. The prayers
should be said as nearly as possible at the
commencement of the periods
above mentioned: they may be
said after, but not before. The several times
of prayer are announced
by the “muëddin”
of each mosque. Having ascended
to the gallery of the
“mád'neh,” or menaret, he chants the
“adán,” or call to prayer, which is as follows:
“God is most
Great!” (this is said four times.)
“I testify that there is no
deity but God!” (twice.)
“I testify that Mohammad is
God's Apostle!” (twice.)
“Come to prayer!” (twice.) “Come
to
security!” (twice.)
5 “God is most Great!” (twice.)
“There
is no deity but God!”—Most of the
muëddins of
Cairo have
5 Here is added, in the morning call,
“Prayer is better than sleep!”
(twice.)

harmonious and sonorous voices,
which they strain to the utmost
pitch: yet there is a simple and solemn
melody in their chants
which is very striking, particularly in the
stillness of night.
1
Blind men are generally preferred for the office of
muëddins,
that the hareems and terraces of surrounding houses
may not be
overlooked from the mád'nehs.
1 A common air, to which the adán is
chanted in Cairo, will be given in the
chapter on Egyptian
music.
Two other calls to prayer are made during the night, to rouse
those persons
who desire to perform supererogatory acts of devotion.
2
A little after midnight, the muëddins of the great royal
mosques in
Cairo (
i.e., of each of the great mosques
founded by
a Sultán, which is called
“Gámë, Sultánee”), and of
some other
large mosques, ascend the mád'nehs, and chant the
following call,
which, being one of the two night-calls not at the regular
periods
of obligatory prayers, is called the “Oola,”
a term signifying
merely the “First.” Having
commenced by chanting the common
adán, with those words which
are introduced in the call to
morning-prayer (“Prayer is better
than sleep”), he adds, “There
is no deity but
God” (three times) “alone: He hath no companion:
to
Him belongeth the dominion; and to Him belongeth
praise. He giveth life,
and causeth death; and He is living, and
shall never die. In His hand is
blessing [or good]; and He is
Almighty.—There is no deity but
God!” (three times) “and we
will not worship any
beside Him, ‘serving Him with sincerity of
religion,'
3 ‘though
the infidels be averse'
4 [thereto]. There is
no deity but God! Mohammad is the most noble
of the creation
in the sight of God. Mohammad is the best prophet that
hath
been sent, and a lord by whom his companions became lords;
comely; liberal of gifts; perfect; pleasant to the taste; sweet;
soft to
the throat [or to be drunk]. Pardon, O Lord, Thy servant
and Thy poor
dependent, the endower of this place, and
him who watcheth it with goodness
and beneficence, and its
neighbours, and those who frequent it at the times
of prayers
and good acts, O Thou Bountiful!—O
Lord!”
5
(three times.)
“Thou art He who ceaseth not to be distinguished
by mercy:
Thou art liberal of Thy clemency towards the rebellious; and
protectest him; and concealest what is foul; and makest manifest
every
virtuous action; and Thou bestowest Thy beneficence upon
the servant, and
comfortest him, O Thou Bountiful!—O Lord!”
2 They are few who do so.
3 Kur-án, ch. xcviii., v. 4.
4 Same, ch. ix., v. 32,
and ch. 1xi. v. 8.
5 This exclamation (“Yá
rabb!”) is made in a very loud tone.

(three times.) “My sins,
when I think upon them, [I see to be]
many; but the mercy of my Lord is
more abundant than are
my sins: I am not solicitous on account of good that
I have
done; but for the mercy of God I am most solicitous. Extolled
be the Everlasting! He hath no companion in His great dominion.
His
perfection [I extol]: exalted be His name: [I extol]
the perfection of
God.”
About an hour before daybreak, the muëddins of most mosques
chant
the second call, named the “Ebed,” and so called from
the
occurrence of that word near the commencement.
1 This call is
as follows:
“[I extol] the perfection of God, the Existing for
ever and
ever” (three times): “the perfection of God, the
Desired, the Existing, the Single, the Supreme: the perfection of
God, the
One, the Sole: the perfection of Him who taketh to
Himself, in His great
dominion, neither female companion, nor
male partner, nor any like unto
Him, nor any that is disobedient,
nor any deputy, nor any equal, nor any
offspring. His perfection
[I extol]: and exalted be His name! He is a Deity
who knew
what hath been before it was, and called into existence what
hath been; and He is now existing as He was [at the first].
His perfection
[I extol]: and exalted be His name! He is a
Deity unto whom there is none
like existing. There is none like
unto God, the Bountiful, existing. There
is none like unto God,
the Clement, existing. There is none like unto God,
the Great,
existing. And there is no deity but Thou, O our Lord, to be
worshipped and to be praised and to be desired and to be
glorified. [I
extol] the perfection of Him who created all creatures,
and numbered them,
and distributed their sustenance, and
decreed the terms of the lives of His
servants: and our Lord,
the Bountiful, the Clement, the Great, forgetteth
not one of them.
[I extol] the perfection of Him who, of His power and
greatness,
caused the pure water to flow from the solid stone, the mass
of
rock: the perfection of Him who spake with our lord Moosa [or
Moses] upon the mountain;
2 whereupon the mountain was reduced
to dust,
3 through dread of God, whose name be
exalted,
the One, the Sole. There is no deity but God. He is a just
Judge. [I extol] the perfection of the First. Blessing and peace
be on
thee, O comely of countenance! O Apostle of God!
1 The word “ebed” is here
used adverbially, signifying “for ever.”

Blessing and peace be on thee, O
first of the creatures of
God! and seal of the apostles of God! Blessing
and peace be
on thee, O thou Prophet! on thee and on thy Family, and
all
thy Companions. God is most Great! God is most Great!”
etc., to the end of the call to morning-prayer. “O God, favour
and preserve and bless the blessed Prophet, our lord Mohammad!
And may God,
whose name be blessed and exalted, be well
pleased with thee, O our lord
El-Hasan, and with thee, O our
lord El-Hoseyn, and with thee, O
Aboo-Farrág,
1 O Sheykh of
the Arabs, and with all the favourites [the
“welees”] of God.
Amen.”
2 These words, “The perfection of Him
who spake,” etc. (“subhána men
kellema,” etc.), are pronounced in a very high and loud tone.
3 See Kur-án, ch. vii., v. 139.
1 “Aboo-Farrág”
is a surname of a famous saint, the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee,
buried at
Tanta in the Delta: it implies that he obtains relief to
those who
visit his tomb, and implore his intercession.
The prayers which are performed daily at the five periods
before mentioned
are said to be of so many “rek'ahs,” or inclinations
of the head.
2
2 The morning-prayers, two rek'ahs sunneh and
two fard: the noon, four
sunneh and four fard; the afternoon, the same;
the evening, three fard and
two sunneh; and the night-prayers (or
'eshë), four sunneh and four fard, and
two sunneh again.
After these are yet to be performed three rek'ahs “witr;”
i.e., single or separate prayers: these may be
performed immediately after the
'eshë prayers, or at any
time in the night; but are more meritorious if late
in
the night.
The worshipper, standing with his face towards the Kibleh
(that is, towards
Mekkeh), and his feet not quite close together,
says, inaudibly, that he
has purposed to recite the prayers of so
many rek'ahs (sunneh or fard) the
morning-prayers (or the noon,
etc.) of the present day (or night); and
then, raising his open
hands on each side of his face, and touching the
lobes of his
ears with the ends of his thumbs, he says, “God is
most Great!”
(“Alláhu Akbar.”)
This ejaculation is called the “tekbeer.”
He then
proceeds to recite the prayers of the prescribed number
of rek'ahs,
3 thus:—
3 There are some little differences in the
attitudes of the four great sects
during prayer. I describe those of
the Hanafees.
Still standing, and placing his hands before him, a little below
his girdle,
the left within the right, he recites (with his eyes
directed towards the
spot where his head will touch the ground
in prostration) the
Fát'hah, or opening chapter of the Kur-án,
4 and
4 Some persons previously utter certain
supererogatory ejaculations, expressive
of the praise and glory of God;
and add, “I seek refuge with God from
Satan the
accursed;” which petition is often offered up before reciting
any
part of the Kur-án on other occasions, as commanded by
the Kur-án itself
(ch. xvi., v. 100).
The Kur-án is usually recited, in the fard prayers, in a
voice slightly audible, excepting at noon and the 'asr, when it is
recited
inaudibly. By Imáms, when praying at the head of
others, and sometimes by
persons praying alone, it is chanted. In the
sunneh prayers it is recited
inaudibly.

after it three or more other
verses, or one of the short chapters,
of the
Kur-án—very commonly the 112th chapter—but
without
repeating the bismillah (in the name of God, etc.) before the
second recitation. He then says, “God is most Great!”
and
makes, at the same time, an inclination of his head and body,
placing his hands upon his knees, and separating his fingers a
little. In
this posture he says, “[I extol] the perfection of my
Lord, the
Great!” (three times), adding, “May God hear him
who
praiseth Him. Our Lord, praise be unto Thee!” Then,

POSTURES OF PRAYERS, (PART 1.)
raising his head and body, he repeats, “God is most
Great!”
He next drops gently upon his knees, and, saying again,
“God is
most Great!” places his hands upon the
ground, a little before
his knees, and puts his nose and forehead also to
the ground (the
former first), between his two hands. During this
prostration he
says, “[I extol] the perfection of my Lord, the
Most High!”

(three times.) He raises his head
and body (but his knees
remain upon the ground), sinks backwards upon his
heels, and
places his hands upon his thighs, saving, at the same time,
“God
is most Great!” and this he repeats as he bends
his head a
second time to the ground. During this second prostration
he
repeats the same words as in the first, and in raising his head
again, he utters the tekbeer as before. Thus are completed the
prayers of
one rek'ah. In all the changes of posture, the toes
of the right foot must
not be moved from the spot where they
were first placed, and the left foot
should be moved as little as
possible.

POSTURES OF PRAYER. (PART II.)
Having finished the prayers of one rek'ah, the worshipper rises
upon his
feet (but without moving his toes from the spot where
they were,
particularly those of the right foot), and repeats the
same; only he should
recite some other chapter, or portion, after
the Fát'hah, than
that which he repeated before, as, for instance,
the 108th chapter.
1
1 In the third and fourth fard rek'ahs, the
recitation of a second portion of
the Kur-án after the
Fát'hah should be omitted; and before fard prayers of
four
rek'ahs, the “ikámeh (which consists of the words of
the adán, with the
addition of “the time of
prayer is come,” pronounced twice after “come to
security”) should be repeated; but most persons neglect doing
this, and
many do not observe the former rule.
After every
second rek'ah (and after the
last, though there be
an odd number, as in the evening fard), he
does not immediately
raise his knees from the ground, but bends his left
foot under
him, and sits upon it, and places his hands upon his thighs,
with
the fingers a little apart. In this posture he says,
“Praises are
to God, and prayers, and good works. Peace be on
thee, O
Prophet, and the mercy of God, and His blessings! Peace be on
us, and on [all] the righteous worshippers of God!” Then
raising
the first finger of the right hand
1 (but not the hand itself),
he adds,
“I testify that there is no deity but God; and I testify
that
Mohammad is His servant and His apostle.”
1 The doctors of El-Islám differ
respecting the proper position of the
fingers of the right hand on this
occasion: some hold that all the fingers but
the first are to be
doubled, as represented in Part II. of the sketch of the
postures of
prayer.
After the
last rek'ah of each of the prayers (that is,
after the
sunneh prayers and the fard alike), after saying,
“Praises are to
God,” etc., the worshipper, looking
upon his right shoulder, says,
“Peace be on you, and the mercy
of God!” Then looking
upon the left, he repeats the same. These
salutations are considered
by some as addressed only to the guardian angels
who
watch over the believer, and note all his actions;
2 but others say
that they are addressed both to angels and men (
i.e.,
believers
only), who may be present; no person, however, returns them.
Before the salutations in the
last prayer, the worshipper
may offer
up any short petition (in Scriptural language rather than
his
own); while he does so, looking at the palms of his two hands,
which he holds like an open book before him, and then draws
over his face,
from the forehead downwards.
2 Some say that every believer is attended by
two angels; others say, five;
others, sixty, or a hundred and
sixty.
Having finished both the sunneh and fard prayers, the worshipper,
if he
would acquit himself completely, or rather, perform
supererogatory acts,
remains sitting (but may then sit more at his
ease), and recites the
“A'yet el-Kursee,” or Throne-Verse, which
is the
256th of the 2nd chapter of the Kur-án;
3 and adds, “O
High! O
Great! Thy perfection [I extol].” He then repeats,
“The perfection of God!” (thirty-three times.)
“The perfection
3 Beginning with the words “God:
there is no deity but He;” and
ending with, “He
is the High, the Great.”

of God, the Great, with His praise
for ever!” (once.) “Praise
be to God!”
(thirty-three times.) “Extolled be His dignity!
There is no
deity but He!” (once.) “God is most
Great!”
(thirty-three times.) “God is most Great in
greatness, and praise
be to God in abundance!” (once.) He counts
these repetitions
with a string of beads called
“sebhah” (more properly
“subhah”).
The beads are ninety-nine, and have a mark
between
each thirty-three. They are of aloes, or other odoriferous or
precious wood, or of coral, or of certain fruit-stones, or seeds,
etc.
Any wandering of the eyes, or of the mind, a coughing, or the
like,
answering a question, or any action not prescribed to be
performed, must be
strictly avoided (unless it be between the
sunneh
prayers and the fard, or be difficult to avoid; for it is
held allowable to
make three slight irregular motions, or deviations
from correct
deportment); otherwise the worshipper must
begin again, and repeat his
prayers with due reverence. It is
considered extremely sinful to interrupt
a man when engaged in
his devotions. The time usually occupied in repeating
the prayers
of four rek'ahs, without the supererogatory additions, is less
than
four, or even three, minutes. The Muslim says the five daily
prayers in his house or shop or in the mosque, according as may
be most
convenient to him: it is seldom that a person goes from
his house to the
mosque to pray, excepting to join the congregation
on Friday. Men of the
lower orders oftener pray in the
mosques than those who have a comfortable
home, and a mat or
carpet upon which to pray.
The same prayers are said by the congregation in the mosque
on the noon of
Friday; but there are additional rites performed
by the Imám and
other ministers on this occasion. The chief
reasons for fixing upon Friday
as the Sabbath of the Muslims
were, it is said, because Adam was created on
that day, and died
on the same day of the week, and because the general
resurrection
was prophesied to happen on the day; whence,
particularly,
Friday was named the day of “El-Gum'ah”
(or the assembly).
The Muslim does not abstain from worldly business on
Friday,
excepting during the time of prayer, according to the precept
of
the Kur-án, ch. lxii., vv. 9 and 10.
To form a proper conception of the ceremonials of the Friday-prayers,
it is
necessary to have some idea of the interior of a
mosque. A mosque in which
a congregation assembles to
perform the Friday-prayers is called
“gámë'.” The mosques of

Cairo are so numerous, that none of
them is inconveniently

INTERIOR OF A MOSQUE.
crowded on the Friday; and some of them are so large as to
occupy
spaces three or four hundred feet square. They are

mostly built of stone, the
alternate courses of which are generally
coloured externally red and white.
Most commonly a large
mosque consists of porticoes surrounding a square
open court,
in the centre of which is a tank or a fountain for ablution.
One
side of the building faces the direction of Mekkeh, and the
portico
on this side, being the principal place of prayer, is more
spacious
than those on the three other sides of the court: it generally
has
two or more rows of columns, forming so many aisles, parallel
with
the exterior wall. In some cases, this portico, like the other
three, is
open to the court; in other cases, it is separated from the
court by
partitions of wood, connecting the front row of columns.
In the centre of
its exterior wall is the mehráb (or niche) which
marks the
direction of Mekkeh; and to the right of this is the
“mimbar” (or pulpit). Opposite the mehráb, in
the fore part of
the portico, or in its central part, there is generally a
platform
(called “dikkeh”), surrounded by a parapet,
and supported by
small columns; and by it, or before it, are one or two
seats,
having a kind of desk to bear a volume of the Kur-án,
from which
a chapter is read to the congregation. The walls are
generally
quite plain, being simply white-washed; but in some mosques
the
lower part of the wall of the place of prayer is lined with
coloured
marbles, and the other part ornamented with various devices
executed in stucco, but mostly with texts of the Kur-án (which
form long friezes, having a pleasing effect), and never with the
representation of anything that has life. The pavement is
covered with
matting, and the rich and poor pray side by side;
the man of rank or wealth
enjoying no peculiar distinction or
comfort, unless (which is sometimes the
case) he have a prayer-carpet
brought by his servant, and spread for
him.
1
1 Adjoining each mosque are several
“latrinae,” in each of which is a
receptacle with
water, for ablution.
The Prophet did not forbid
women to attend public prayers
in
a mosque, but pronounced it better for them to pray in private:
in
Cairo, however, neither females nor young boys are allowed to
pray with the
congregation in the mosque, or even to be present
in the mosque at any time
of prayer: formerly women were
permitted (and perhaps are still in some
countries), but were
obliged to place themselves apart from the men, and
behind the
latter; because, as Sale has remarked, the Muslims are of
opinion
that the presence of females inspires a different kind of
devotion
from that which is requisite in a place dedicated to the
worship
of God. Very few women in Egypt even pray at home.

Over each of the mosques of
Cairo presides a
“Názir” (or
warden), who is the trustee of
the funds, which arise from lands,
houses, etc., bequeathed to the mosque
by the founder and
others, and who appoints the religious ministers and the
inferior
servants. Two “Imáms” are
employed to officiate in each of
the larger mosques: one of them, called
the “Khateeb,”
preaches and prays before the
congregation on the Friday: the
other is an “Imám
Rátib,” or ordinary Imám, who recites the
five prayers of every day in the mosque, at the head of those
persons who
may be there at the exact times of those prayers:
but in most of the
smaller mosques both these offices are performed
by one Imám.
There are also to each mosque one or
more
“muëddins” (to chant the call to prayer), and
“bowwábs”
(or door-keepers), according as
there are one or more mád'nehs
(or menarets) and entrances; and
several other servants are
employed to sweep the mosque, spread the mats,
light the lamps,
and attend to the sákiyeh (or water-wheel), by
which the tank or
fountain, and other receptacles for water, necessary to
the performance
of ablutions, are supplied. The Imáms, and those
persons
who perform the lower offices, are all paid from the funds of
the
mosque, and not by any contributions exacted from the people.
The condition of the Imáms is very different, in most respects,
from that of Christian priests. They have no authority above
other persons,
and do not enjoy any respect buy what their
reputed piety or learning may
obtain them: nor are they a
distinct order of men set apart for religious
offices, like our
clergy, and composing an indissoluble fraternity; for a
man who
has acted as the Imám of a mosque may be displaced by
the
warden of that mosque, and, with his employment and salary,
loses
the title of Imám, and has no better chance of
being again
chosen for religious minister than any other person
competent
to perform the office. The Imáms obtain their
livelihood chiefly
by other means than the service of the mosque, as their
salaries
are very small: that of a Khateeb being generally about a
piaster
(2 2/5d. of our money) per month; and that
of an ordinary Imám,
about five piasters. Some of them engage in
trade; several of
them are “'attárs” (or
druggists and perfumers), and many of
them are schoolmasters: those who
have no regular occupations
of these kinds often recite the
Kur-án for hire in private houses.
They are mostly chosen from
among the poor students of the
great mosque El-Azhar.
The large mosques are open from day-break till a little after

the 'eshë, or till
nearly two hours after sunset. The others are
closed between the hours of
morning and noon prayers; and
most mosques are also closed in rainy weather
(excepting at the
times of prayer), lest persons who have no shoes should
enter,
and dirt the pavement and matting. Such persons always enter by
the door nearest the tank or fountain (if there be more than one
door),
that they may wash before they pass into the place of
prayer; and generally
this door alone is left open in dirty weather.
The great mosque El-Azhar
remains open all night, with the exception
of the principal place of
prayer, which is called the “maksoorah,”
being
partitioned off from the rest of the building. In many of
the larger
mosques, particularly in the afternoon, persons are seen
lounging, chatting
together, eating, sleeping, and sometimes spinning
or sewing, or engaged in
some other simple craft; but,
notwithstanding such practices, which are
contrary to precepts of
their prophet, the Muslims very highly respect
their mosques.
There are several mosques in
Cairo (as the Azhar,
Hasaneyn,
etc.)
before which no Frank, or any other
Christian, nor a Jew,
were allowed to pass, till of late years, since the
French invasion.
On the Friday, half an hour before the “duhr” (or noon),
the
muëddins of the mosques ascend to the galleries of the
mád'nehs,
and chant the
“Selám,” which is a salutation to the Prophet,
not
always expressed in the same words, but generally in words to
the
following effect:—“Blessing and peace be on thee, O
thou
of great dignity! O Apostle of God! Blessing and peace be
on
thee, to whom the Truth said, I am God! Blessing and peace
be on thee, thou
first of the creatures of God, and seal of the
Apostles of God! From me be
peace on thee, on thee and on
thy Family and all thy
companions!”—Persons then begin to
assemble in the
mosques.
The utmost solemnity and decorum are observed in the public
worship of the
Muslims. Their looks and behaviour in the
mosque are not those of
enthusiastic devotion, but of calm and
modest piety. Never are they guilty
of a designedly irregular
word or action during their prayers. The pride
and fanaticism
which they exhibit in common life, in intercourse with
persons of
their own, or of a different faith, seem to be dropped on
their
entering the mosque, and they appear wholly absorbed in the
adoration of their Creator; humble and downcast, yet without
affected
humility, or a forced expression of countenance.
The Muslim takes off his shoes at the door of the mosque,
carries them in
his left hand, sole to sole, and puts his right foot

first over the threshold. If he
have not previously performed
the preparatory ablution, he repairs at once
to the tank or fountain
to acquit himself of that duty. Before he commences
his prayers,
he places his shoes (and his sword and pistols, if he have
such
arms) upon the matting, a little before the spot where his head
will touch the ground in prostration: his shoes are put one upon
the other,
sole to sole.
The people who assemble to perform the noon prayers of Friday
arrange
themselves in rows parallel to that side of the mosque in
which is the
niche, and facing that side. Many do not go until
the adán of
noon, or just before. When a person goes at, or
a little after, the
Selám, as soon as he has taken his place in one
of the ranks, he
performs two rek'ahs, and then remains sitting,
on his knees or
cross-legged, while a reader, having seated himself
on the reading-chair
immediately after the Selám, is occupied in
reciting (usually
without book) the Soorat el-Kahf (the 18th
chapter of the
Kur-án), or a part of it; for, generally, he has not
finished it
before the adán of noon, when he stops. All the congregation,
as
soon as they hear the adán (which is the same as on
other days),
sit on their knees and feet. When the adán is finished,
they
stand up, and perform, each separately, two
1 rek'ahs, “sunnet
el-gum'ah” (or the sunneh ordinance for Friday), which they
conclude, like the ordinary prayers, with the two salutations. A
servant of
the mosque, called a “Murakkee,” then opens the
folding-doors at the foot of the pulpit-stairs, takes from behind
them a
straight wooden sword, and, standing a little to the right
of the doorway,
with his right side towards the kibleh, holds this
sword in his right hand,
resting the point on the ground. In this
position he says,
“Verily God favoureth, and His angels bless, the
Prophet. O ye
who believe, bless him, and greet him with a
salutation!”
2 Then one or more
persons, called “Muballighs,”
stationed on the
dikkeh, chant the following, or similar words.
3
“O God! favour and preserve and bless the most noble of
the
Arabs and 'Agam [or foreigners], the Imám of Mekkeh and
El-Medeeneh
and the Temple, to whom the spider showed favour,
and wove
its web in the cave; and whom the dabb
4 saluted, and
1 If of the sect of the Sháfe'ees, to
which most of the people of Cairo
belong; but if of that of the
Hanafees, four rek'ahs.
2 Kur-án, chap. xxxiii., v. 56.
3 There are some trifling differences in the
forms of salutations of the
Prophet in the Friday-prayers in different
mosques; I describe what is most
common.
4 A kind of lizard, the lacerta Libyca.

before whom the moon was cloven in
twain, our lord Mohammad,
and his Family and Companions!” The
Murakkee then recites
the adán (which the Muëddins
have already chanted): after every
few words he pauses, and the Muballighs
on the dikkeh repeat
the same words in a sonorous chant.
1 Before the
adán is finished,
the Khateeb, or Imám, comes to the
foot of the pulpit, takes the
wooden sword from the Murakkee's hand,
ascends the pulpit, and
sits on the top step or platform. The pulpit of a
large mosque
on this day is decorated with two flags, with the profession
of the
faith, or the names of God and Mohammad, worked upon them:
these are fixed at the top of the stairs, slanting forward. The
Murakkee
and Muballighs having finished the adán, the former
repeats a
tradition of the Prophet, saying, “The Prophet (upon
whom be
blessing and peace!) hath said, ‘If thou say unto thy
companion
while the Imám is preaching on Friday, Be thou silent,
thou
speakest rashly.' Be ye silent: ye shall be rewarded: God
shall recompense
you.” He then sits down. The Khateeb now
rises, and, holding the
wooden sword
2 in the
same manner as the
Murakkee did, delivers an exhortation, called
“khutbet el-waaz.”
As the reader may be curious to
see a translation of a Muslim
sermon, I insert one. The following is a
sermon preached on
the first Friday of the Arab year.
3 The original, as
usual, is in
rhyming prose.
1 In the great mosque El-Azhar there are several
Muballighs in different
places, to make the adán heard to
the whole congregation.
2 To commemorate the acquisition of Egypt by the
sword. It is never used
by the Khateeb but in a country or town that
has been so acquired by the
Muslims from unbelievers.
3 During my first visit to Egypt I went to the
great mosque El-Azhar, to
witness the performance of the Friday-prayers
by the largest congregation in
Cairo. I was pleased with the preaching
of the Khateeb of the mosque, Gád-El-Mowla,
and afterwards
procured his sermon-book (“deewán
khutab”),
containing sermons for every Friday in the year,
and for the two “'eeds,” or
grand festivals. I
translate the first sermon.
“Praise be to God, the renewer of years, and the multiplier of
favours, and the creator of months and days, according to the most
perfect
wisdom and most admirable regulation; who hath dignified
the months of the
Arabs above all other months, and pronounced
that among the more excellent
of them is El-Moharram the
Sacred, and commenced with it the year, as He
hath closed it
with Zu-l-Heggeh. How propitious is the beginning, and
how
good is the end!
4 [I extol] His perfection, exempting Him from
4 The year begins and ends with a sacred month.
The sacred months are
four: the first, seventh, eleventh, and twelfth.
During these, war was forbidden
to be waged against such as
acknowledged them to be sacred, but was afterwards
allowed. The first
month is also held to be excellent on account of the
day of 'A'shoora
(respecting which see Chap. XXIV. of this work); and the
last, on
account of the pilgrimage.

the association of any other deity
with Him. He hath well considered
what He hath formed, and established what
He hath
contrived, and He alone hath the power to create and to
annihilate.
I praise Him, extolling His perfection, and exalting His
name, for the knowledge and inspiration which He hath graciously
vouchsafed; and I testify that there is no deity but God alone;
He hat no
companion; He is the most holy King; the [God
of] peace: and I testify that
our Lord and our Prophet and our
friend Mohammad is His servant, and His
apostle, and His elect,
and His friend, the guide of the way, and the lamp
of the dark.
O God! favour and preserve and bless this noble Prophet,
and
chief and excellent apostle, the merciful-hearted, our lord
Mohammad,
and his family, and his companions, and his wives, and
his
posterity, and the people of his house, the noble persons, and
preserve
them amply! O servants of God! your lives have been
gradually curtailed,
and year after year hath passed away, and ye
are sleeping on the bed of
indolence and on the pillow of iniquity.
Ye pass by the tombs of your
predecessors, and fear not the
assault of destiny and destruction, as if
others departed from the
world and ye must of necessity remain in it. Ye
rejoice at the
arrival of new years, as if they brought an increase to the
term of
life, and swim in the seas of desires, and enlarge your hopes,
and
in every way exceed other people [in presumption], and ye are
sluggish in doing good. O how great a calamity is this! God
teacheth by an
allegory. Know ye not that in the curtailment of
time by indolence and
sleep there is very great trouble? Know
ye not that in the cutting short of
lives by the termination of years
is a very great warning? Know ye not that
the night and day
divide the lives of numerous souls? Know ye not that
health
and capacity are two blessings coveted by many men? But the
truth hath become manifest to him who hath eyes. Ye are now
between two
years: one year hath passed away, and come to an
end, with its evils; and
ye have entered upon another year, in
which, if it please God, mankind
shall be relieved. Is any of you
determining upon diligence [in doing good]
in the year of come?
or repenting of his failings in the times that are
passed? The
happy is he who maketh amends for the time passed in the
time
to come; and the miserable is he whose days pass away, and he

is careless of his time. This new
year hath arrived, and the sacred
month of God hath come with blessings to
you—the first of the
months of the year, and of the four sacred
months, as hath been
said, and the most worthy of preference and honour and
reverence.
Its fast is the most excellent of fasts after that which is
incumbent,
1 and
the doing of good in it is among the most excellent
of the objects of
desire. Whosoever desireth to reap advantage
from it, let him fast the
ninth and tenth days, looking for
aid.
2 Abstain not from this fast through indolence, and
esteeming
it a hardship; but comply with it in the best manner, and
honour it with the best of honours, and improve your time by the
worship of
God morning and evening. Turn unto God with
repentance, before the assault
of death: He is the God who
accepteth repentance of His servants, and
pardoneth sins.—
The
Tradition.
3—The
Apostle of God (God favour and preserve him!)
hath said, ‘The
most excellent prayer, after the prescribed,
4 is
the prayer that is said in the last third of
the night; and the most
excellent fast, after Ramadán, is that
of the month of God, El-Moharram.”'
1 That of the month of Ramadán.
2 See an account of the customs observed in
honour of the day of 'A'shoora,
chap. xxiv.
3 The Khateeb always closes his exhortation with
one or two traditions of
the Prophet.
4 The five daily prayers ordained by the
Kur-án.
The Khateeb, having concluded his exhortation, says to the
congregation,
“Supplicate God.” He then sits down, and prays
privately; and each member of the congregation at the same time
offers up
some private petition, as after the ordinary prayers, holding
his hands
before him (looking at the palms), and then drawing
them down his face.
This done, the Muballighs say, “A'meen!
A'meen! (Amen! Amen!) O
Lord of all creatures!” —The
Khateeb now rises again,
and recites another Khutbeh, called
“khutbet
en-naat,” of which the following is a translation:—
5
5 This is always the same, or nearly so.
“Praise be to God, abundant praise, as He hath commanded!
I
testify that there is no deity but God alone: He hath no companion:
affirming His supremacy, and condemning him who
denieth and disbelieveth:
and I testify that our lord and our
prophet Mohammad is His servant and His
apostle, the lord of
mankind, the intercessor, the accepted intercessor, on
the day of
assembling: God favour him and his family as long as the
eye
seeth and the ear heareth! O people! reverence God by doing

what He hath commanded, and abstain
from that which He hath
forbidden and prohibited. The happy is he who
obeyeth, and
the miserable is he who opposeth and sinneth. Know that
the
present world is a transitory abode, and that the world to come
is
a lasting abode. Make provision, therefore, in your transitory
state for
your lasting state, and prepare for your reckoning and
standing before your
Lord: for know that ye shall to-morrow be
placed before God, and reckoned
with according to your deeds;
and before the Lord of Might ye shall be
present, ‘and those
who have acted unjustly shall know with what
an overthrowal they
shall be overthrown.'
1 Know that God, whose perfection I
extol,
and whose name be exalted, hath said (and ceaseth not to say
wisely, and to command judiciously, warning you, and teaching,
and
honouring the dignity of your Prophet, extolling and magnifying
him),
‘Verily, God favoureth, and His angels bless, the
Prophet: O ye
who believe, bless him, and greet him with a
salutation!”
2 O God! favour
Mohammad and the family of
Mohammad, as Thou favouredst
Ibráheem
3 and the family of
Ibráheem; and bless Mohammad and the
family of Mohammad,
as Thou blessedst Ibráheem and the family of
Ibráheem among
all creatures—for Thou art
praiseworthy and glorious! O
God! do Thou also be well pleased with the
four Khaleefehs,
the orthodox lords, of high dignity and illustrious
honour,
Aboo-Bekr Es-Siddeek, and ‘Omar, and
‘Osmán, and 'Alee;
and be Thou well pleased, O God!
with the six who remained
of the ten noble and just persons who swore
allegiance
to thy Prophet Mohammad (God favour and preserve
him!)
under the tree; (for Thou art the Lord of Piety, and the
Lord of pardon,)
those persons of excellence and clemency, and
rectitude and prosperity,
Talhah, and Ez-Zubeyr, and Saad, and
Sa'eed, and 'Abd-Er-Rahmán
Ibn-'Owf, and Aboo-'Obeydeh 'A'mir
Ibn-El-Garráh; and with all
the Companions of the Apostle of
God! (God favour and preserve him!); and
be Thou well pleased,
O God! with the two martyred descendants, the two
bright
moons, ‘the two lords of the youths of the people of
Paradise
in Paradise,' the two sweet-smelling flowers of the Prophet of
this
nation, Aboo-Mohammad El-Hasan, and Aboo-'Abd-Allah El-Hoseyn:
and be Thou well pleased, O God! with their mother,
the daughter of the
Apostle of God (God favour and preserve
him!), Fátimeh Ez-Zahra,
and with their grandmother Khadeegeh
1 Kur-án, chap. xxvi., last verse.
2 Idem., chap. xxxiii., v. 56.

El-Kubra, and with 'A'isheh, the
mother of the faithful, and with
the rest of the pure wives, and with the
generation which succeeded
the Companions, and the generation which
succeeded
that, with beneficence to the day of judgment! O God! pardon
the believing men and the believing women, and the Muslim men
and the
Muslim women, those who are living, and the dead; for
Thou art a hearer
near, an answerer of prayers, O Lord of all
creatures! O God! aid
El-Islám, and strengthen its pillars, and
make infidelity to
tremble, and destroy its might, by the preservation
of Thy servant, and the
son of Thy servant, the submissive to
the might of Thy majesty and glory,
whom God hath aided, by
the care of the Adored King, our master the
Sultán, son of the
Sultán, the Sultán
Mahmood
1
Khán: may God assist him, and
prolong [his reign]! O God! assist
him, and assist his armies!
O Thou Lord of the religion, and of the world
present, and the
world to come! O Lord of all creatures! O God! assist
the
forces of the Muslims, and the armies of the Unitarians! O God!
frustrate the infidels and polytheists, thine enemies, the enemies
of the
religion! O God! invert their banners, and ruin their
habitations, and give
them and their wealth as booty to the
Muslims!
2 O God! unloose the captivity of the
captives, and
annul the debts of the debtors; and make this town to be
safe
and secure, and blessed with wealth and plenty, and all the towns
of the Muslims, O Lord of all creatures! And decree safety and
health to us
and to all travellers, and pilgrims, and warriors, and
wanderers, upon Thy
earth, and upon Thy sea, such as are Muslims,
O Lord of all creatures!
‘O Lord! we have acted unjustly
towards our own souls, and if
Thou do not forgive us and be
merciful unto us, we shall surely be of those
who perish.'
3 I
beg
of God, the Great, that He may forgive me and you, and all the
people of Mohammad, the servants of God. ‘Verily God commandeth
justice, and the doing of good, and giving [what is due]
to kindred; and
forbiddeth wickedness, and iniquity, and oppression:
He admonisheth you
that ye may reflect.'
4
Remember
God; He will remember you: and thank Him; He will increase
to
you [your blessings]. Praise be to God, the Lord of all
creatures!”
1 The reigning Sultán at the time
when the above was written.
2 This sentence, beginning “O God,
frustrate,” was not inserted in one copy
of this prayer,
which I obtained from an Imám. Another Imám, at whose
dictation
I wrote the copy here translated, told me that this sentence
and some
others were often omitted.
3 Kur-án, chap. viii., v. 22.
4 Ibid., chap. xvi., v.
92.
During the rise of the Nile, a good inundation is also prayed for
in this
Khutbeh. The Khateeb, or Imám, having ended it, descends
from
the pulpit, and the Muballighs chant the
“ikámeh” (described
in page 66): the
Imám, stationed before the niche, then
recites the
“fard” prayers of Friday, which consist of two
rek'ahs,
and are similar to the ordinary prayers. The people do the
same, but silently, and keeping time exactly with the Imám in
the various postures. Those who are of the Málikee sect then
leave the mosque; and so also do many persons of the other
sects: but some
of the Sháfe'ees and Hanafees (there are scarcely
any Hambel'ees
in
Cairo) remain, and recite the
ordinary fard
prayers of noon; forming a number of separate groups, in each
of which one
acts as Imám. The rich, on going out of the
mosque, often give
alms to the poor outside the door.
There are other prayers to be performed on particular
occasions—on
the two grand annual festivals, on the nights of
Ramadán
(the month of abstinence), on the occasion of an eclipse
of the
sun or moon, for rain, previously to the commencement of
battle,
in pilgrimage, and at funerals.
I have spoken thus fully of Muslim worship because my countrymen
in general
have very imperfect and erroneous notions on
this subject; many of them
even imagining that the Muslims
ordinarily pray to their Prophet as well as to God. Invocations
to the Prophet, for his
intercession, are, indeed, frequently made,
particularly at his tomb, where pious visitors generally say,
“We
ask thy intercession, O Apostle of God!” The
Muslims also
even implore the intercession of their numerous saints.
The duty next in importance to prayer is that of giving
alms.
Certain alms are prescribed by law, and are called
“zekah”:
others, called
“sadakah,” are voluntary. The former, or obligatory
alms, were, in the earlier ages of El-Islám, collected by
officers appointed by the sovereign, for pious uses, such as building
mosques, etc.; but now it is left to the Muslim's conscience to
give them,
and to apply them in what manner he thinks fit; that
is, to bestow them
upon whatever needy persons he may choose.
They are to be given once in
every year, of cattle and sheep,
generally in the proportion of one in
forty, two in a hundred and
twenty; of camels, for every five, a ewe; or
for twenty-five, a
pregnant camel; and likewise of money, and, among the
Hanafees,
of merchandize, etc. He who has money to the amount of
two
hundred dirhems (or drams) of silver, or twenty mitkáls (
i.e.,
thirty drams) of gold (or, among the Hanafees,
the value of the

above in gold or silver ornaments,
utensils, etc.), must annually
give the fortieth part (“ruba
el-'oshr”), or the value of that part.
Fasting is the next duty. The Muslim is commanded to
fast
during the whole month of Ramadán
1 every day, from the first
appearance of daybreak, or rather from the hour when there is
sufficient
light for a person to distinguish plainly a white thread
from a black
thread
2 (about two
hours before sunrise in Egypt),
until sunset. He must abstain from eating,
drinking, smoking,
smelling perfumes, and every unnecessary indulgence or
pleasure
of a worldly nature; even from intentionally swallowing his
spittle.
When Ramadán falls in summer,
3 the fast is very severe; the
abstinence from drinking being most painfully felt. Persons who
are sick,
or on a journey, and soldiers in time of war, are not
obliged to observe
the fast during Ramadán; but if they do not
keep it in this
month they should fast an equal number of days
at a future time. Fasting is
also to be dispensed with in the
cases of a nurse and a pregnant woman. The
Prophet even disapproved
of any person's keeping the fast of
Ramadán if not
perfectly able; and desired no man to fast so
much as to injure
his health, or disqualify himself for necessary labour.
The
modern Muslims seem to regard the fast of Ramadán as of
more
importance than any other religious act, for many of them keep
this fast who neglect their daily prayers; and even those who
break the
fast, with very few exceptions, pretend to keep it.
Many Muslims of the
wealthy classes eat and drink in secret
during Ramadán; but the
greater number strictly keep the fast,
which is fatal to numerous persons
in a weak state of health.
There are some other days on which it is
considered meritorious
to fast, but not absolutely necessary. On the two
grand festivals,
namely, that following Ramadán, and that which
succeeds the
pilgrimage, it is
unlawful to do so,
being expressly forbidden by
the Prophet.
1 Because the Prophet received the first
revelation in that month.
2 Kur-án, chap. ii., v. 183.
3 The year being lunar, each month retrogrades
through all the seasons in
the course of about thirty-three years and a
half.
The last of the four most important duties, that of
pilgrimage,
remains to be noticed. It is incumbent on every Muslim
to
perform, once in his life, the pilgrimage to Mekkeh and Mount
'Arafát, unless poverty or ill health prevent him; or, if a
Hanafee,
he may send a deputy, whose expenses he must pay.
4 Many,
4 A Málikee is held bound to perform
the pilgrimage if strong enough to
bear the journey on foot, and able
to earn his food on the way.

however, neglect the duty of
pilgrimage who cannot plead a
lawful excuse; and they are not reproached
for so doing. It is
not merely by the visit to Mekkeh, and the performance
of the
ceremonies of compassing the Kaabeh seven times and kissing
the
“black stone” in each round, and other rites in the
Holy
City, that the Muslim acquires the title of
“el-hágg”
1 (or the
pilgrim): the final object
of the pilgrimage is Mount 'Arafát,
six hours' journey distant
from Mekkeh. During his performance
of the required ceremonies in Mekkeh,
and also during his
journey to 'Arafát, and until his completion
of the pilgrimage, the
Muslim wears a peculiar dress, called
“ehrám” (vulgarly herám),
generally consisting of two simple pieces of cotton, or linen, or
woollen
cloth, without seam or ornament, one of which is wrapped
round the loins,
and the other thrown over the shoulders: the
instep and heel of each foot,
and the head, must be bare; but
umbrellas are now used by many of the
pilgrims. It is necessary
that the pilgrim be present on the occasion of a
Khutbeh which
is recited on Mount 'Arafát in the afternoon of
the 9th of the
month of Zu-l-Heggeh. In the ensuing evening, after sunset,
the
pilgrims commence their return to Mekkeh. Halting the following
day in the valley of Mina (or, as it is more commonly called,
Muna), they
complete the ceremonies of the pilgrimage by a
sacrifice (of one or more
male sheep, he-goats, cows, or she-camels,
part of the flesh of which they
eat, and part give to the
poor), and by shaving the head and clipping the
nails. Every
one, after this, resumes his usual dress, or puts on a new
one, if
provided with such. The sacrifice is called
“el-fida” (or the
ransom), as it is performed in
commemoration of the ransom of
Isma'eel (or Ishmael) by the sacrifice of
the ram, when he was
himself about to have been offered up by his father;
for it is the
general opinion of the Muslims that it was this son, not
Isaac,
who was to have been sacrificed by his father.
1 On the pronunciation of this word, see a note
to the second paragraph of
Chapter V., p. 120.
There are other ordinances, more or less connected with those
which have
been already explained.
The two festivals called “el-'Eed es-Sugheiyir,”
2 or the Minor
Festival, and ‘el-'Eed el-Kebeer,” or the Great Festival,
the
occasions of which have been mentioned above, are observed
with
public prayer and general rejoicing. The first of these lasts
2 More properly “Sagheer.”
This is what many travellers have incorrectly
called “the
Great Festival.”

three days; and the second, three
or four days. The festivities
with which they are celebrated will be
described in a subsequent
chapter. On the first day of the latter festival
(it being the
day on which the pilgrims perform their sacrifice) every
Muslim
should slay a victim, if he can afford to purchase one. The
wealthy person slays several sheep, or a sheep or two, and a
buffalo, and
distributes the greater portion of the meat to the
poor. The slaughter may
be performed by a deputy.
War against enemies of El-Islám, who have been the first
aggressors, is enjoined as a sacred duty; and he who loses his
life in
fulfilling this duty, if unpaid, is promised the rewards of a
martyr. It
has been said, even by some of their leading doctors,
that the Muslims are
commanded to put to death all idolaters
who refuse to embrace
El-Islám excepting women and children,
whom they are to make
slaves:
1 but the
precepts on which this
assertion is founded relate to the Pagan Arabs, who
had violated
their oaths and long persevered in their hostility to
Mohammad
and his followers. According to the decisions of the most
reasonable doctors, the laws respecting other idolaters, as well as
Christians and Jews, who have drawn upon themselves the
hostility of the
Muslims, are different: of such enemies, if reduced
by force of arms,
refusing to capitulate or to surrender
themselves, the men may be put to
death or be made slaves, and
the women and children also, under the same
circumstances,
may be made slaves: but life and liberty are to be granted
to
those enemies who surrender themselves by capitulation or
otherwise,
on the condition of their embracing El-Islám or
paying a
poll-tax, unless they have acted perfidiously towards the
Muslims,
as did the Jewish tribe of Kureydhah, who, being in league
with Mohammad, went over to his enemies and aided them
against him: for
which conduct, when they surrendered, the men
were slain, and the women and
children were made slaves.—The
Muslims, it may here be added,
are forbidden to contract intimate
friendship with unbelievers.
1 Misled by the decision of those doctors, and
an opinion prevalent in
Europe, I represented the laws of
“holy war” as more severe than I find
them to be
according to the letter and spirit of the Kur-án, when
carefully
examined, and according to the Hanafee code. I am indebted to
Mr.
Urquhart for suggesting to me the necessity of revising my former
statement
on this subject; and must express my conviction that no
precept is to be
found in the Kur-án which, taken with the
context, can justify unprovoked
war.
There are certain prohibitory laws in the Kur-án which must
be
mentioned here, as remarkably affecting the moral and social
condition of
its disciples.
Wine, and all inebriating liquors, are forbidden, as being the
cause of
“more evil than profit.”
1 Many of the Muslims, however,
in
the present day, drink wine, brandy, etc., in secret; and
some, thinking it
no sin to indulge thus in moderation, scruple
not to do so openly; but
among the Egyptians there are few
who transgress in this flagrant manner.
“Boozeh,” or “boozah,”
which is
an intoxicating liquor made with barley-bread, crumbled,
mixed with water,
strained, and left to ferment, is commonly
drunk by the boatmen of the
Nile, and by other persons of the
lower orders.
2 Opium, and other drugs which produce a
similar
effect, are considered unlawful, though not mentioned in the
Kur-án; and persons who are addicted to the use of these drugs
are regarded as immoral characters; but in Egypt, such persons
are not very
numerous. Some Muslims have pronounced tobacco,
and even coffee, unlawful.
1 Kur-án, chap. ii., v. 216. A kind of wine, formerly called
“nebeedh”
(a name now given to prohibited kinds),
may be lawfully drunk. This is
generally an infusion of dry grapes, or
dry dates. The Muslims used to keep
it until it had slightly fermented;
and the Prophet himself was accustomed to
drink it, but not when it was
more than two days old. The nebeedh of raisins
is now called
“zebeeb.”
2 A similar beverage, thus prepared from barley,
was used by the ancient
Egyptians. (Herodotus, lib. ii., cap. 77.) The
modern inhabitants of Egypt
also prepare boozeh from wheat and from
millet in the same manner, but less
commonly.
The eating of swine's flesh is strictly forbidden. The unwholesome
effects
of that meat in a hot climate would be a sufficient
reason for the
prohibition; but the pig is held in abhorrence by
the Muslim chiefly an
account of its extremely filthy habits.
3
Most animals prohibited for food by the Mosaic law are alike
forbidden to the Muslim. The camel is an exception. The
Muslim is
“forbidden [to eat] that which dieth of itself, and
blood, and
swine's flesh, and that on which the name of any
beside God hath been
invoked; and that which hath been
strangled or killed by a blow, or by a
fall, or by the horns [of
another beast]; and that which hath been [partly]
eaten by a
wild beast, except what he shall [himself] kill; and that
which
hath been sacrificed unto idols.”
4 An animal that is killed for
3 Swine were universally deemed impure by the
ancient Egyptians.
(Herodotus, lib. ii., cap. 47.)
4 Kur-án, chap. v., v. 4.

the food of man must be slaughtered
in a particular manner: the
person who is about to perform the operation
must say, “In the
name of God! God is most great!”
and then cut its throat, at
the part next the head, taking care to divide
the windpipe, gullet,
and carotid arteries; unless it be a camel, in which
case he
should
stab the throat at the part next the
breast. It is forbidden
to utter, in slaughtering an animal, the phrase
which is so often
made use of on other occasions, “In the name
of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful!” because the mention of
the most
benevolent epithets of the Deity on such an occasion would
seem
like a mockery of the sufferings which it is about to endure.
Some persons in Egypt, but mostly women, when about to kill
an animal for
food, say, “In the name of God! God is most
great! God give thee
patience to endure the affliction which
He hath allotted
thee!”
1
If the sentiment which first dictated
this prayer were always felt, it
would present a beautiful trait in
the character of the people who use it.
In cases of necessity,
when in danger of starving, the Muslim is allowed to
eat any
food which is unlawful under other circumstances. The made
of
slaughter above described is, of course, only required to be
practised in
the cases of domestic animals. Most kinds of fish
are lawful food:
2 so also are many
birds; the tame kinds of
which must be killed in the same manner as cattle;
but the wild
may be shot. The hare, rabbit, gazelle, etc., are lawful
food,
and may either be shot, or killed by a dog, provided the name of
God was uttered at the time of discharging the arrow, etc., or
slipping the
dog, and he (the dog) has not eaten any part of the
prey. This animal,
however, is considered very unclean: the
Sháfe'ees hold
themselves to be polluted by the touch of its
nose, if it be wet; and if
any part of their clothes be so touched,
they must wash that part with
seven waters, and once with clean
earth: some others are only careful not
to let the animal lick, or
defile in a worse manner, their persons or their
dress, etc. When
game has been struck down by any weapon, but not killed,
its
throat must be immediately cut: otherwise it is unlawful food.
1 The Arabic words of this prayer,
“God give thee patience,” etc., are,
“Allah yesabbirak (for yusabbirak) 'ala má
belák.”
2 In some respects the Muslim code does not
appear to be so strictly
founded upon exigencies of a sanatory nature
as the Mosaic. See Leviticus
xi. 9–12. In Egypt, fish which
have not scales are generally found to be
unwholesome food. One of the
few reasonable laws of El-Hákim was that
which forbade the
selling or catching such kinds of fish. See De Sacy,
“Chrestomathie Arabe,” 2nde ed., tome i., p.
98.
Gambling and usury are prohibited,
1 and all games of chance;
and likewise the making
of images or pictures of anything that
has life.
2 The Prophet declared that every
representation of this
kind would be placed before its author on the day of
judgment,
and that he would be commanded to put life into it; which
not
being able to do, he would be cast, for a time, into hell.
1 It is unlawful to give or receive interest,
however small, for a loan, or on
account of credit; and to exchange any
article for another article of the same
species, but differing in
quantity. These and several other commercial transactions
of a similar
kind are severely condemned; but they are not very
uncommon among
modern Muslims, some of whom take exorbitant interest.
2 Many of the Muslims hold that only sculptures
which cast a shadow,
representing living creatures, are unlawful; but
the Prophet certainly condemned
pictures also.
The principal civil and criminal
laws remain to be stated.
Their origin we discover partly in customs
of the Pagan Arabs,
but mostly in the Jewish Scriptures and traditions.
The civil and criminal laws are chiefly and immediately derived
from the
Kur-án
3; but, in many important cases, this highest
authority affords no
precept. In most of these cases the Traditions
of the Prophet direct the
decisions of the judge.
4 There
are, however, some important cases, and many of an inferior
kind,
respecting which both the Kur-án and the Traditions are
silent or
undecisive. These are determined by the explanations and
amplifications derived either from the concordance of the principal
early
disciples, or from analogy, by the four great Imáms, or
founders
of the four orthodox sects of El-Islám; generally on the
authority of the Imám of that sect to which the ruling power
belongs, which sect, in Egypt, and throughout the Turkish
Empire, is that
of the Hanafees: or, if none of the decisions of
the Imám relate
to a case in dispute (which not unfrequently
happens), judgment is given in
accordance with a sentence of
some other eminent doctor, founded upon
analogy.—In general,
only the principal laws, as laid down in
the Kur-án and the Traditions,
will be here stated.
3 A law given in the Kur-án is called
“fard.”
4 A law derived from the Traditions is called
“sunneh.”
The laws relating to
marriage and the licence of
polygamy, the
facility of
divorce allowed by the Kur-án, and the permission of
concubinage, are essentially the natural and necessary
consequences
of the main principle of the constitution of Muslim
society—the
restriction of the intercourse between the sexes
before marriage.
Few men would marry if he who was disappointed in a wife
whom
he had never seen before were not allowed to take another; and

in the case of a man's doing this,
his own happiness, or that of
the former wife, or the happiness of both
these parties, may
require his either retaining this wife of divorcing her.
But I
hope that my reader will admit a much stronger reason for these
laws, regarding them as designed for the
Muslims. As the
Mosaic
code allowed God's chosen people, for the hardness of their
hearts,
to put away their wives, and forbade neither polygamy nor
concubinage,
he who believes that Moses was divinely inspired, to
enact the best laws for his people, must hold the permission of
these
practices to be less injurious to morality than their prohibition,
among a
people similar to the ancient Jews. Their
permission, though certainly
productive of injurious effects upon
morality and domestic happiness,
prevents a profligacy that would
be worse than that which prevails to so
great a degree in European
countries, where parties are united in marriage
after an intimate
mutual acquaintance. As to the licence of polygamy,
which
seems to be unfavourable to the accomplishment of the main
object for which marriage was instituted, as well as to the exercise
and
improvement of the nobler powers of the mind, we should
remark that it was
not introduced, but limited, by the legislator
of the Muslims. It is true
that he assumed to himself the
privilege of having a greater number of
waves than he allowed to
others; but, in doing so, he may have been
actuated by the want
of male offspring, rather than impelled by
voluptuousness.
The law respecting marriage and concubinage is perfectly
explicit as to the
number of wives whom a Muslim may have at
the same time; but it is not so
with regard to the number of
concubine-slaves whom he may have. It is
written, “Take in
marriage, of the women who please you, two,
three, or four; but
if ye fear that ye cannot act equitably [to so many,
take] one; or
[take] those whom your right hands have
acquired,”
1 that is, your
slaves. Therefore many of the wealthy Muslims marry
two,
three, or four wives, and keep besides several concubine-slaves;
and many of the most revered characters, even Companions of
the Prophet,
are recorded to have done the same. The conduct
of the later clearly shows
that the number of concubine-slaves
whom a man may have is not limited by
the law in the opinion
of the orthodox.
2
1 Kur-án, chap. iv., v. 3.
2 Some Muslim moralists argue, that, as four
wives are a sufficient number
for one man, so also are four
concubine-slaves, or four women consisting of
these two classes
together; but, notwithstanding what Sale and some other
learned men
have asserted on this subject, the Muslim law certainly does not
limit
the number of concubine-slaves whom a man may have, whether in
addition
to, or without, a wife or wives.

It is held lawful for a Muslim to marry a Christian or a Jewish
woman, if
induced to do so by excessive love of her, or if he
cannot obtain a wife of
his own faith; but in this case of offspring
must follow the father's
faith,
1 and the
wife does not
inherit when the father dies. A Muslim'eh, however, is
not
allowed under any circumstances, but when force is employed, to
marry a man who is not of her own faith. A man is forbidden,
by the
Kur-án
2
and the Sunneh, to marry his mother, or other
ascendant; his daughter, or
other descendant; his sister, or half-sister;
the sister of his father or
mother, or other ascendant; his
niece, or any of her descendants; his
foster-mother,
3 or
a woman
related to him by milk in any of the degrees which would
preclude
his marriage with her if she were similarly related to him
by
consanguinity; the mother of his wife, even if he have not
consummated his
marriage with this wife; the daughter of his
wife if he have consummated
his marriage with the latter, and she
be still his wife; his father's wife,
and his son's wife; and to
have at the same time two wives who are sisters,
or aunt and
niece: he is forbidden also to marry his unemancipated slave,
or
another man's slave, if he have already a free wife. It is lawful
for the Muslim to see the faces of these women whom he is forbidden
to
marry, but of no others, excepting his own wives and
female slaves. The
marriage of a man and woman, or of a man
and a girl who has arrived at
puberty, is lawfully effected by their
declaring (which the latter
generally does by a “wekeel,” or
deputy) their
consent to marry each other, in the presence of two
witnesses (if witnesses
can be procured), and by the payment, or
part-payment, of a dowry. But the
consent of a girl under the
age of puberty is not required; her father, or,
if he be dead, her
nearest adult male relation, or any person appointed as
her
guardian by will or by the Kádee, acting for her as he
pleases.
4
The giving of a dowry is indispensable, and the least sum that is
allowed by law is ten “dirhems” (or drachms of silver),
which is
1 In like manner, when a Christian man marries a
Jewess, the Muslim law
requires the offspring to profess
“the better faith,” namely, the Christian, if
unwilling to embrace El-Islám.
3 By the Hanafee code, a man may not marry a
woman from whose breast
he has received a single drop of milk; but
Esh-Sháfe'ee does not prohibit the
marriage unless he has
been suckled by her five times in the course of the first
two years.
4 A boy may be thus married; but he may divorce
his wife.

equal to about five shillings of
our money. A man may legally
marry a woman without mentioning a dowry; but
after the consummation
of the marriage she can, in this case, compel him
to
pay the sum of ten dirhems.
1
1 Whatever property the wife receives from her
husband, parents, or any
other person, is entirely at her own disposal,
and not subject to any claim of
her husband or his creditors.
A man may divorce his wife twice, and each time take her
back without any
ceremony, excepting in a case to be mentioned
below; but if he divorce her
the third time, or put her away by
a triple divorce conveyed in one
sentence, he cannot receive
her again until she has been married and
divorced by another
husband, who must have consummated his marriage with
her.
2
When a man divorces his wife (which he does by merely saying,
“Thou art divorced,” or “I divorce
thee”), he pays her a portion
of her dowry (generally
one-third), which he had kept back from
the first, to be paid on this
occasion, or at his death; and she
takes away with her the furniture, etc.,
which she brought at her
marriage. He may thus put her away from mere
dislike,
3 and
without assigning any reason; but a woman cannot separate
herself from her
husband against his will, unless it be for some
considerable fault on his
part, as cruel treatment, or neglect; and
even then, application to the
Kádee's court is generally necessary
to compel the man to
divorce her; and she forfeits the above-mentioned
remnant of the dowry.
2 Kur-án, chap. ii., vv. 229, 230.
3 As the Mosaic law also allows. See Deut. xxiv.
I.
The first and second divorce, if made without any mutual
agreement for a
compensation from the woman, or a pecuniary
sacrifice on her part, is
termed “talák reg'ee” (a divorce which
admits of return); because the husband may take back his wife,
without her
consent, during the period of her “'eddeh” (which
will be presently explained), but not after, unless with her consent,
and
by a new contract. If he divorce her the first or second
time for a
compensation, she perhaps requesting, “Divorce me
for what thou
owest me,” or “—hast of mine” (that
is, of the
dowry, furniture, etc.), or for an additional sum, he cannot
take
her again but by her own consent, and by a new contract. This
is
a “talák báïn” (or
separating divorce), and is termed “the
lesser
separation,” to distinguish it from the third divorce, which
is
called “the greater separation.” The
“'eddeh” is the period
during which a divorced woman
or a widow must wait before
marrying again,—in either case, if
pregnant, until delivery; otherwise

the former must wait three lunar
periods, or three months,
and the latter, four months and ten days. A woman
who is
divorced when in a state of pregnancy, though she may make a
new contract of marriage immediately after her delivery, must
wait forty
days longer before she can complete her marriage by
receiving her husband.
The man who divorces his wife must
maintain her in his own house, or in
that of her parents, or elsewhere,
during the period of her 'eddeh, but
must cease to live
with her as her husband from the commencement of that
period.
A divorced woman who has a son under two years of age may
retain him until he has attained that age, and may be compelled to
do so by
the law of the Sháfe'ees, and by the law of the
Málikees,
until he has arrived at puberty, but the Hanafee law
limits the
period during which the boy should remain under her care to
seven
years: her daughter she should retain until nine years of age,
or
the period of puberty. If a man divorce his wife before the
consummation
of marriage, he must pay her half the sum which he
has
promised to give her as a dowry, or, if he have promised no
dowry, he must
pay her the half of the smallest dowry allowed by
law, which has been above
mentioned, and she may marry again
immediately.
When a wife refuses to obey to lawful commands of her husband,
he may, and
generally does, take her, or two witnesses
1
against her, to the Kádee's court, to prefer a complaint
against
her; and, if the case be proved, a certificate is written
declaring
the woman “náshizeh,” or
rebellious against her husband. This
process is termed “writing
a woman náshizeh.” It exempts her
husband from
obligation to lodge, clothe, and maintain her. He
is not obliged to divorce
her; and, by refusing to do this, he may
prevent her marrying another man
as long as he lives; but, if she
promise to be obedient afterwards, he must
take her back, and
maintain her, or divorce her. It is more common,
however, for
a wife whose husband refuses to divorce her, if she have
parents
or other relations able and willing to support her comfortably,
to
make a complaint at the Kádee's court, stating her
husband's
conduct to be of such a nature towards her that she will not
live
with him, and thus cause herself to be registered
“náshizeh,” and
separated from him. In
this case, the husband generally persists,
from mere spite, in refusing to
divorce her.
1 The witnesses must always be Muslims in
accusations against a person of
the same faith.
As concubines are
slaves, some account of slaves in
general

may her be appropriately inserted,
with a statement of the
principal laws respecting concubines and their
offspring, etc.—
The slaves is either a person taken captive in
war, or carried off
by force from a foreign hostile country, and being at
the time of
capture an infidel; or the offspring of a female slave by
another
slave, or by any man who is not her owner, or by her owner if
he
do not acknowledge himself to be the father; but a person cannot
be
the slave of a relation who is within the prohibited degrees
of marriage.
The power of the owner is such that he may even
kill his slave with
impunity for any offence; and he incurs but a
slight punishment (as
imprisonment for a period at the discretion
of the judge) if he do so
wantonly. He may give or sell his
slaves, excepting in some cases which
will be mentioned, and
may marry them to whom he will, but not separate
them when
married. A slave, however, according to most of the doctors,
cannot have more than two wives at the same time. As a slave
enjoys less
advantages than a free person, the law, in some cases,
ordains that his
punishment for an offence shall be half of that
to which the free is liable
for the same offence, or even less than
half: if it be a fine, or pecuniary
compensation, it must be paid
by the owner, to the amount, if necessary, of
the value of the
slave, or the slave must be given in compensation. An
unemancipated
slave, at the death of the owner, becomes the property
of
the heirs of the latter; and when an emancipated slave dies,
leaving no male descendant or collateral relation, the former
owner is the
heir; or, if he be dead, his heirs inherit the slave's
property. But an
unemancipated slave can acquire no property
without the permission of the
owner. Complete and immediate
emancipation is sometimes granted to a slave
gratuitously, or for
a future pecuniary compensation. It is conferred by
means of a
written document, or by a verbal declaration in the presence
of
two witnesses, or by presenting the slave with the certificate of
sale obtained from the former owner. Future emancipation is
sometimes
covenanted to be granted on the fulfilment of certain
conditions; and more
frequently, to be conferred on the occasion
of the owner's death. In the
latter case, the owner cannot sell
the slave to whom he has made this
promise; and as he cannot
alienate by will more than one-third of the whole
property that he
leaves, the law ordains that, if the value of the said
slave exceed
that portion, the slave must obtain, and pay to the owner's
heirs,
the additional sum.—A Muslim may take as his concubine
any of
his female slaves who is a Muslim'eh, or a Christian, or a
Jewess,

if he have not married her to
another man; but he may not have
as his concubines, at the same time, two
or more who are sisters,
or who are related to each other in any of the
degrees which
would prevent their both being his wives at the same time if
they
were free. A Christian is not by the law allowed, nor is a Jew,
to have a Muslim'eh slave as his concubine.
1 The master must
wait a certain period (generally
from a month to three months)
after his acquisition of a female slave,
before he can take her as
his concubine. When a female slave becomes a
mother by her
master, the child which she bears to him is free, if he
acknowledge
it to be his own; but if not, it is his slave. In the former
case
the mother cannot afterwards be sold or given away by her
master
(though she must continue to serve him and be his concubine
as long as he
desires); and she is entitled to emancipation
at his death. Her bearing a
child to him is called the cause
of her emancipation or liberty; but it
does not oblige him to
emancipate her as long as he lives, though it is
commendable if
he do so, and make her his wife, provided he have not
already
four wives, or if he marry her to another man, should it be
her
wish. A free person cannot become the husband or wife of his,
or
her, own slave, without first emancipating that slave; and the
marriage of
a free person with the slave of another is dissolved if
the former become
the owner of the latter, and cannot be renewed
but by emancipation and a
regular legal contract.
1 Yet many Christians and Jews in Egypt infringe
the law in this respect
with impunity.
The most remarkable general principles of the laws of
inheritance
are the denial of any privileges to primogeniture,
2 and in
most cases awarding to a
female a share equal to half that of a
male of the same degree of
relationship to the deceased.
3 A
person may bequeath one-third of his or her property; but
not
2 In this the Muslim law differs from the
Mosaic, which assigns a double
portion to the first-born son. See Deut.
xxi. 17.
3 In my summary of the principal laws relating
to inheritance, in the former
editions of this work, there were some
errors, occasioned by my relying too
much upon Sale's version of the
Kur-án; for I doubted not his accuracy, as
he had several
commentaries to consult, and I had none; wherefore, in my
inquiries
respecting these laws, I sought only to add to, not to correct, the
information conveyed by his version. I have here given a corrected
statement,
derived from the Kur-án and the Commentary of the
Geláleyn, supplying some
words of necessary explanation
(which are enclosed in brackets) partly on the
authority of a sheykh
who was my tutor, and partly from the valuable work of
D'Ohsson,
“Tableau Général de l'Empire
Othoman,” Code Civil, livre iv.

a larger portion, unless he or she
has no legal heir; nor any
portion to a legal heir, excepting wife or
husband, without the
consent of all the other heirs. The children of a
person deceased
inherit the whole of that person's property, or what
remains after
payment of the legacies and debts, etc., and the share of a
male
is double the share of a female. If the children of the deceased
be only females, two or more in number, they inherit together,
by the law
of the Kur-án, two-thirds; and if there be but one
child, and
that a female, she inherits by the same law half. [But
the remaining third,
or half, is also assigned to the said daughters
or daughter, by a law of
the Sunneh (which applies also to other
cases), if there be no other legal
heir.] If the deceased have left
no immediate descendant, the sons and
daughters of his son or sons
inherit as immediate descendants [and so on].
If the deceased
have left a child or a son's child [and so on], each of the
parents
of the deceased inherits one-sixth. If the father be dead, his
share falls to
his father. [If the mother be dead, her
share falls
to
her mother.] If the deceased have
left no child or son's child
[and so on], the mother has one-third of the
property, or of what
remains after deducting the share of the wife or wives
or husband,
and the residue is for the father; unless the deceased has left
two
or more brothers or sisters, in which case the mother inherits
one-sixth, and the father the residue; the said brothers or sisters
receiving nothing
1 [if
the deceased have left a father or any
ascendant in the male line]. A man
inherits half of what remains
of his wife's property after the payment of
her legacies, etc.,
if she have left no child or son's child [and so on];
and one-fourth
if she have left a child or son's child [and so on].
One-fourth is
the share of the wife, or of the wives conjointly, if the
deceased
husband have left no child or son's child [and so on]; and
one-eighth
1 According to Sale's translation of the 12th
verse of chap. iv., and a note
thereon, if the deceased have no child,
and his parents be his heirs, then
his mother shall have the third
part, and his father the other two-thirds; but
if he have brethren, his
mother shall have a sixth part;—and by his translation
of
the last verse of the same chapter, stating that the brothers of a man
who
has died without issue have a claim to
inheritance, it is implied that the
brothers, if the
father be living, must have a share; consequently, that they
would have, in the case above-mentioned, a sixth part: for he has not
stated
that this portion which is deducted from the mother's share goes
to the father,
nor that the father's share in
diminished.—Why the mothers' share is diminished
and the
father's increased, in the case to which this note relates, I do not
see:
the reason might be easily inferred, were it not that the
surviving brothers or
sisters of the deceased may be his brothers or
sisters by the mother's side
only.

if he have left any such
descendant.
1 If
the deceased have
not left a father [nor any ascendant in the male line],
nor a child
[nor a son's child, and so on], the law ordains as
follows:—1. A
sole brother, or sister, only by the mother's
side, inherits on-sixth;
and if there be two or more brothers or sisters,
only by the mother's
side, or one or more of such relations of each sex,
they inherit
collectively one-third, which is equally divided, without
distinction
of male and female.—2. If the deceased have left a
sole sister
by his father and mother [and no such brother], she
inherits
half; and a man inherits the whole property of such a sister
[or
what remains after the payment of her legacies, etc.], if she have
left no child; but if she have left a male child [or son's child, and
so
on], he (the brother) inherits nothing; and if she have left a
female
child, the said brother inherits what remains after deducting
that child's
share [and after the payment of the legacies, etc.].
If the deceased have
left two or more sisters, by his father and
mother [and no such brother],
they inherit together two-thirds.
If the deceased have left one or more
brothers, and one or more
sisters, by his father and mother, they inherit
the whole [or what
remains after the payment of the legacies, etc.], and
the share of a
male is double the share of a female.—3. Brothers
and sisters
by the father's side only [when there is no brother or sister
by
the father and mother] inherit as brothers and sisters by the
father and mother.
2 No
distinction is made between the
child of a wife and that borne by a slave
to her master (if
the master acknowledge the child to be his own): both
inherit
equally. So also do the child of a wife and the adopted child.
A bastard inherits only from his mother, and
vice
versâ. When
there is no legal heir, or legatee, the
property falls to the government-treasury,
which is called “beyt
el-mál.” The laws respecting
certain remote degrees
of kindred, etc., I have not thought it
necessary to state.
3 The property of the
deceased is nominally
divided into keeráts (or twenty-fourth
parts); and the share of
each son, or other heir, is said to be so many
keeráts.
1 This is exclusive of what may remain due to
her of her dowry, of which
one-third is usually held in reserve by the
husband, to be paid to her if he
divorce her, or when he dies.
2 The portions of the Kur-án upon
which the above laws are founded are
verses 12-15, and the last verse,
of chap. iv.
3 The reader may see them in D'Ohsson's work
before mentioned.
The law is remarkably lenient towards
debtors.
“If there be
any [debtor],” says the
Kur-án,
4 “under a difficulty [of paying

his debt], let [his creditor] wait
till it be easy [for him to do it];
but if ye remit it as alms, it will be
better for you.” The Muslim
is commanded (in the chapter from
which the above extract is
taken), when he contracts a debt, to cause a
statement of it to be
written, and attested by two men, or a man and two
women, of
his own faith. The debtor is imprisoned for non-payment of
his
debt; but if he establish his insolvency, he is liberated. He
may
be compelled to work for the discharge of his debt, if able.
The Kur-án ordains that
murder shall be
punished with death;
or rather, that the free shall die for the free, the
slave for the
slave, and a woman for a woman; or that the perpetrator of
the
crime shall pay to the heirs of the person whom he has killed, if
they allow it a fine, which is to be divided according to the laws
of
inheritance.
1 It
also ordains that
unintentional homicide shall
be
expiated by freeing a believer from slavery, and paying, to the
family of
the person killed, a fine, unless they remit it.
2 But
these laws are amplified and
explained by the same book and by
the Imáms.—A fine
is not to be accepted for murder unless the
crime has been attended by some
palliating circumstance. This
fine, which is the price of blood, is a
hundred camels; or a
thousand deenárs (about £500)
from him who possesses gold;
or from him who possesses silver, twelve
thousand dirhems
3
(about £300). This is for killing a free-man: for a woman,
half
the sum: for a slave, his or her value; but that must fall short
of the price of blood for the free. A person unable to free a
believer must
fast two months, as in Ramadán. The accomplices
of a murderer
are liable to the punishment of death. By the
Sunneh also, a man is
obnoxious to capital punishment for the
murder of a woman; and by the
Hanafee law, for the murder of
another man's slave. But he is exempted from
this punishment who
kills his own child or other descendant, or his own
slave, or his
son's slave, or a slave of whom he is part-owner: so also are
his
accomplices; and according to Esh-Sháfe'ee, a Muslim, though
a
slave, is not to be put to death for killing an infidel, though the
latter be free. In the present day, however, murder is generally
punished
with death; the government seldom allowing a composition
in money to be
made. A man who kills another in self-defence,
or to defend his property
from a robber, is exempt from
all punishment. The price of blood is a debt
incumbent on the
family, tribe, or association of which the homicide is a
member
3 Or, according to some, ten thousand dirhems.

It is also incumbent on the
inhabitants of an enclosed quarter,
or the proprietor or proprietors of a
field, in which the body of a
person killed by an unknown hand is found;
unless the person
has been found killed in his own house. A woman,
convicted of
a capital crime, is generally put to death by drowning in the
Nile.
The Bedawees have made the law of the avenging of blood
terribly severe and
unjust, transgressing the limits assigned by the
Kur-án: for,
with them, any single person descended from the
homicide, or from the
homicide's father, may be killed by any
of such relations of the person
murdered or killed in fight; but,
among most tribes, the fine is generally
accepted instead of the
blood. Cases of blood-revenge are very common among
the
peasantry of Egypt, who, as I have before remarked, retain many
customs of their Bedawee ancestors. The relations of a person
who has been
killed, in an Egyptian village, generally retaliate
with their own hands
rather than apply to the government, and
often do so with disgusting
cruelty, and even mangle and insult
the corpse of their victim. The
relations of a homicide usually fly
from their own to another village, for
protection. Even when retaliation
has been made, animosity frequently
continues between the
two parties for many years; and often a case of
blood-revenge involves
the inhabitants of two or more villages in
hostilities, which
are renewed, at intervals, during the period of several
generations.
Retaliation for intentional
wounds
and
mutilations is allowed,
like as for murder;
“eye for eye,” etc.;
1 but a fine may be
accepted instead, which the
law allows also for unintentional injuries.
The fine for a member that is
single (as the nose) is the
whole price of blood, as for homicide; for a
member of which
there are two, and not more (as a hand), half the price of
blood;
for one of which there are ten (a finger or toe), a tenth of
the
price of blood; but the fine of a man for maiming or wounding a
woman is half of that for the same injury to a man; and that of a
free
person for injuring a slave varies according to the value of the
slave. The
fine for depriving a man of any of his five senses, or
dangerously wounding
him, or grievously disfiguring him for life,
is the whole price of blood.
1 Kur-án, chap. v., v. 49.
Theft, whether committed by a man or by a woman,
according
to the Kur-án,
2 is to be punished by cutting off the offender's
right
hand for the first offence; but a Sunneh law ordains that this
punishment shall not be inflicted if the value of the stolen property

is less than a quarter of a
deenár;
1 and it is also held
necessary, to render the thief obnoxious to
this punishment, that
the property stolen should have been deposited in a
place to which
he had not ordinary or easy access; whence it follows, that
a man
who steals in the house of a near relation is not subject to
this
punishment; nor is a slave who robs the house of his master. For
the second offence, the left foot is to be cut off; for the third,
according to the Sháfe'ee law, the left hand; for the fourth,
the
right foot; and for further offences of the same kind, the culprit
is to be flogged or beaten; or, by the Hanafee code, for the third
and
subsequent offences, the criminal is to be punished by a long
imprisonment.
A man may steal a free-born infant without offending
against the law,
because it is not property; but not a slave;
and the hand is not to be cut
off for stealing any article of food
that is quickly perishable, because it
may have been taken to
supply the immediate demands of hunger. There are
also some
other cases in which the thief is exempt from the
punishments
above mentioned. In Egypt, of late years, these
punishments
have not been inflicted. Beating and hard labour have been
substituted
for the first, second, or third offence, and frequently
death
for the fourth. Most petty offences are usually punished by
beating
with the “kurbág” (a thong or whip
of hippopotamus' hide,
hammered into a round form), or with a stick,
generally on the
soles of the feet.
2
1 The deenár is a mitkál
(or nearly 72 English grains) of gold. Sale, copying
a false
translation by Marracci, and neglecting to examine the Arabic text
quoted by the latter, has stated the sum in question to be four
deenárs.
2 The feet are confined by a chain or rope
attached at each end to a staff,
which is turned round to tighten it.
This is called a “falakah.” Two persons
(one on
each side) strike alternately.
Adultery is most severely visited: but to establish a
charge of
this crime against a wife, four eye-witnesses are necessary.
3 If
convicted
thus, she is to be put to death by stoning.
4 I need scarcely
say that cases of this kind
have very seldom occurred, form the
difficulty of obtaining such
testimony.
5
Further laws on this subject,
3 Kur-án, chap. iv., v. 19.
4 This is a “Sunneh” law.
The doom, as Mr. Urquhart observes, “stands
rather as the
expression of public abhorrence, than as a law which is to be
carried
into execution.” (“Spirit of the East,”
vol. ii., p. 425.) The law
is the same in the case of the adulterer, if
married; but it is never enforced.
See Leviticus xx. 10, and John viii.
4, 5.
5 It is worthy of remark, that the circumstance
which occasioned the promulgation
of this extraordinary law was an
accusation of adultery preferred
against the Prophet's favourite wife,
'A'ïsheh; she was thus absolved from
punishment, and her
reputation was cleared by additional “revelations.”

and still more favourable to the
women, are given in the
Kur-án
1 in the following
words:—“But [as to] those who accuse
women of
reputation [of fornication or adultery], and produce not
four witnesses [of
the fact], scourge them with eighty stripes, and
receive not their
testimony for ever; for such are infamous prevaricators,
excepting those
who shall afterwards repent; for God
is gracious and merciful. They who
shall accuse their wives [of
adultery], and shall have no witnesses
[thereof] beside themselves,
the testimony [which shall be required] of one
of them,
[shall be] that he swear four times by God that he speaketh
the
truth, and the fifth [time that he imprecate] the curse of God on
him if he be a liar; and it shall avert the punishment [of the wife]
if she
sware four times by God that he is a liar, and if the fifth
[time she
imprecate] the wrath of God on her if he speak the
truth.” The
commentators and lawyers have agreed that, under
these circumstances, the
marriage must be dissolved. In the
chapter from which the above quotation
is made, it is ordained
(in verse 2) that unmarried persons convicted of
fornication shall
be punished by scourging, with a hundred stripes; and a
Sunneh
law renders them obnoxious to the further punishment of
banishment
for a whole year.
2 Of the punishment of women convicted
of
incontinence in
Cairo, I shall speak in the next chapter, as it
is an
arbitrary act of the government, not founded on the laws of
the
Kur-án, or the Traditions.
3
2 An unmarried person convicted of adultery is
likewise obnoxious only to
this punishment. The two laws mentioned in
Leviticus xx. 13 and 15 have
been introduced into the Muslim code; but
in the present day they are never
executed.
3 In the villages of Egypt, a woman found, or
suspected, to have been guilty
of this crime, if she be not a common
prostitute, often experiences a different
fate, which will be described
in the account of the domestic life and customs of
the lower
orders.
Drunkenness was punished by the Prophet by flogging, and
is
still in
Cairo, though not often. The “hadd,” or
number of
stripes for this offence, is eighty in the case of a free man,
and
forty in that of a slave.
Apostacy from the faith of El-Islám is
considered a most heinous
sin, and must be punished with death, unless the
apostate will
recant on being thrice warned. I once saw a woman
paraded
through the streets of
Cairo, and afterwards taken down to the
Nile to be drowned, for having apostatized from the faith of Mohammad,
and
having married a Christian. Unfortunately, she

had tattooed a blue cross on her
arm, which led to her detection
by one of her former friends in a bath. She
was mounted upon
a high-saddled ass, such as ladies in Egypt usually ride,
and very
respectably dressed, attended by soldiers, and surrounded by
a
rabble, who, instead of commiserating, uttered loud imprecations
against her. The Kádee who passed sentence upon her, exhorted
her in vain to return to her former faith. Her own father was
her accuser!
She was taken in a boat into the midst of the river,
stripped nearly naked,
strangled, and then thrown into the stream.
1 The Europeans residing in
Cairo regretted that the
Básha was then
at
Alexandria, as they might have prevailed upon
him to pardon
her. Once before, they interceded with him for a woman
who
had been condemned for apostacy. The Básha ordered that
she
should be brought before him; he exhorted her to recant; but
finding her resolute, reproved her for her
folly, and
sent her home,
commanding that no injury should be done to her.
1 The conduct of the lower orders in Cairo on
this occasion speaks sadly
against their character. A song was composed on the victim of this terrible
law, and
became very popular in the metropolis.
Still more severe is the law with respect to blasphemy.
The
person who utters blasphemy against God, or Mohammad, or
Christ,
or Moses, or any prophet, is to be put to death without
delay, even though
he profess himself repentant; repentance for
such a sin being deemed
impossible. Apostacy or infidelity is
occasioned by misjudgment; but
blasphemy is the result of utter
depravity.
A few words may here be added respecting the sect of the
“Wahhábees,” also called
“Wahabees,” which was founded less
than a century
ago, by Mohammad Ibn-'Add-El-Wahháb, a pious
and learned sheykh
of the province of En-Nejd, in Central Arabia.
About the middle of the last
century, he had the good fortune to
convert to his creed a powerful chief
of Ed-Dir'eeyeh, the capital
of En-Nejd. This chief, Mohammad Ibn-So'ood,
became the
sovereign of the new sect—their religious and
political head—and
under him and his successors the
Wahhábee doctrines were spread
throughout the greater part of
Arabia. He was first succeeded
by his son, 'Abd-El'-Azeez; next, by So'ood,
the son of the latter,
and the greatest of the Wahhábee leaders;
and lastly, by 'Abd-Allah,
the son of this So'ood, who, after an arduous
warfare with
the armies of Mohammad' Alee, surrendered himself to his
victorious
enemies, was sent to Egypt, thence to Constantinople, and
there beheaded. The wars which Mohammad 'Alee carried on

against the Wahhábees,
had for their chief object the destruction
of the political power of the
new sect. Their religious tenets are
still professed by many of the Arabs,
and allowed to be orthodox
by the most learned of the 'Ulama of Egypt. The
Wahhábees
are merely reformers, who believe all the fundamental
points of
El-Islám, and all the accessory doctrines of the
Kur-án and the
Traditions of the Prophet: in short, their tenets
are those of the
primitive Muslims. They disapprove of gorgeous sepulchres,
and
domes erected over tombs; such they invariably destroy when in
their power. They also condemn, as idolaters, those who pay
peculiar
veneration to deceased saints; and even declare all other
Muslims to be
heretics, for the extravagant respect which they pay
to the Prophet. They
forbid the wearing of silk and gold ornaments,
and all costly apparel, and
also the practice of smoking
tobacco. For the want of this last luxury,
they console themselves
in some degree by an immoderate use of coffee.
1 There
are many
learned men among them, and they have collected
many valuable books
(chiefly historical) from various parts of
Arabia, and from Egypt.
1 Among many other erroneous statements
respecting the Wahhábees, it has
been asserted that they
prohibit the drinking of coffee.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER IV.
GOVERNMENT.
EGYPT has, of late years, experienced great political changes, and
nearly
ceased to be a province of the Turkish Empire. Its present
Básha
(Mohammad 'Alee), having exterminated the Ghuzz,
or Memlooks, who shared
the government with his predecessors,
has rendered himself almost an
independent prince. He, however,
professes allegiance to the
Sultán, and remits the tribute,
according to former custom, to
Constantinople; he is, moreover,
under an obligation to respect the
fundamental laws of the Kur-án
and the Traditions; but he
exercises a dominion otherwise
unlimited.
2 He may cause any one of his subjects to be
put to
2 Though his territory has been greatly lessened
since the above was written,
his power in Egypt remains nearly the
same.

death without the formality of a
trial, or without assigning any
cause: a simple horizontal motion of his
hand is sufficient to imply
the sentence of decapitation. But I must not be
understood
to insinuate that he is prone to shed blood without any
reason:
severity is a characteristic of this prince rather than wanton
cruelty; and boundless ambition has prompted him to almost
every action by
which he has attracted either praise or censure.
1
1 The government of Egypt, from the period of
the conquest of this country
by the Arabs, has been nearly the same as
it is at present in its influence upon
the manners and customs and
character of the inhabitants; and I therefore do
not deem an historical
retrospect necessary to the illustration of this work. It
should,
however, be mentioned that the people of Egypt are not now allowed
to
indulge in that excessive fanatical rudeness with which they formerly
treated
unbelievers; and hence European travellers have one great cause
for gratitude
to Mohammad 'Alee. Restraint may, at first, increase, but
will probably, in
the course of time, materially diminish the feeling
of fanatical intolerance.
In the Citadel of the Metropolis is a court of judicature, called
“ed-Deewán el-Khideewee,”
2 where, in the
Básha's absence, presides
his
“Kikhya,”
3 or deputy, Habeeb Efendee. In cases
which do not
fall within the province of the Kádee, or which are
sufficiently
clear to be decided without referring them to the
court of that officer, or
to another council, the president of the
Deewán el-Khideewee
passes judgment. Numerous guard-houses
have been established throughout the
metropolis, at each of which
is stationed a body of Nizám, or
regular troops. The guard is
called “Kulluk,” or,
more commonly at present, “Karakól.”
Persons accused of thefts, assaults, etc., in
Cairo, are given in
charge to
a soldier of the guard, who takes them to the chief
guard-house, in the
Mooskee, a street in that part of the town in
which most of the Franks
reside. The charges being here stated,
and committed to writing, he
conducts them to the “Zábit,” or
chief
magistrate of the police of the metropolis. The Zábit, having
heard the case, sends the accused for trial to the Deewán
el-Khideewee.
4
When a person denies the offence with which he is
charged, and there
is not sufficient evidence to convict him, but
some ground of suspicion, he
is generally bastinaded, in order to
2 “Khideewee” is a
relative adjective formed from the Turkish
“Khideev,”
which signifies “a
prince.”
3 Thus pronounced in Egypt, but more properly
“Kyáhya,” or
“Ketkhud'a.”
4 A very arbitrary power is often exercised in
this and similar courts, and
the proceedings are conducted with little
decorum. Many Turkish officers,
even of the highest rank, make use of
language far too disgusting for me to
mention, towards persons brought
before them for judgment, and towards those
who appeal to them for
justice.

induce him to confess; and then, if
not before, when the crime
is not of a nature that renders him obnoxious to
a very heavy
punishment, he, if guilty, admits it. A thief, after this
discipline,
generally confesses, “The devil seduced me, and I
took it.” The
punishment of the convicts is regulated by a
system of arbitrary,
but lenient and wise, policy: it usually consists in
their being
compelled to labour, for a scanty sustenance, in some of the
public
works, such as the removal of rubbish, digging canals, etc.;
and sometimes the army is recruited with able-bodied young men
convicted of
petty offences. In employing malefactors in labours
for the improvement of
the country, Mohammad 'Alee merits the
praises bestowed upon Sabacon, the
Ethiopian conqueror and
king of Egypt, who is said to have introduced this
policy. The
Básha is, however, very severe in punishment thefts,
etc., committed
against himself:—death is the usual penalty in
such cases.
There are several inferior councils for conducting the affairs of
different
departments of the administration. The principal of
these are the
following:—1. The “Meglis el-Meshwar'ah (the
Council
of Deliberation), also called “Meglis el-Meshwar'ah
el-Melekeeyeh”
(the Council of Deliberation on the Affairs of
the
State), to distinguish it from other councils. The members of
this
and of the other similar councils are chosen by the Básha,
for
their talents or other qualifications; and consequently his will
and
interest sway them in all their decisions. They are his instruments,
and
compose a committee for presiding over the general
government of the
country, and the commercial and agricultural
affairs of the
Básha. Petitions, etc., addressed to the Básha, or
to
his Deewán, relating to private interests or the affairs of the
government, are generally submitted to their consideration and
judgment,
unless they more properly come under the cognizance
of other councils
hereafter to be mentioned. 2. The “Meglis
el-Gihádeeyeh” (the Council of the Army); also called
“Meglis
el-Meshwar'ah el-'Askereeyeh” (the Council of
Deliberation on
Military Affairs). The province of this court is
sufficiently shown
by its name. 3. The Council of the
“Tarskháneh,” or Navy.
4. The
“Deewán et-Tuggár” (or Court of the
Merchants). This
court, the members of which are merchants of various
countries
and religions, presided over by the
“Sháhbandar” (or chief of
the merchants of
Cairo), was instituted in consequence of the
laws of the Kur-án
and the Sunneh being found not sufficiently
explicit in some cases arising
out of modern commercial transactions.

The “Kádee” (or chief judge) of
Cairo presides
in Egypt only
a year, at the expiration of which term, a new
Kádee having arrived
from Constantinople, the former returns. It
was customary
for this officer to proceed from
Cairo, with the great
caravan of
pilgrims, to Mekkeh, perform the ceremonies of the
pilgrimage,
and remain one year as Kádee of the holy city, and
one year at
El-Medeeneh.
1 He purchases his place privately of the government,
which pays no
particular regard to his qualifications, though
he must be a man of some
knowledge, an 'Osmánlee (that is, a
Turk), and of the sect of
the Hanafees. His tribunal is called
the “Mahkem'eh,”
or Place of Judgment. Few Kádees are
very well acquainted with
the Arabic language; nor is it necessary
for them to have such knowledge.
In
Cairo, the Kádee has little
or nothing to do but to confirm
the sentence of his “Náïb” (or
deputy), who hears and decides the more ordinary cases, and
whom he chooses
from among the 'Ulama of Istambool, or the
decision of the
“Muftee” (or chief doctor of the law) of his own
sect, who constantly resides in
Cairo, and gives judgment in all
cases of
difficulty. But in general, the Náïb is, at the best,
but
little conversant with the popular dialect of Egypt; therefore, in
Cairo, where the chief proportion of the litigants at the Mahkem'eh
are
Arabs, the judge must place the utmost confidence in
the
“Básh Turgumán” (or Chief
Interpreter), whose place is permanent,
and who is consequently well
acquainted with all the
customs of the court, particularly with the system
of bribery; and
this knowledge he is generally very ready to communicate
to
every new Kádee or Náïb. A man may be
grossly ignorant of
the law, and yet hold the office of Kádee of
Cairo: several instances
of this kind have occurred; but the
Náïb must be a
lawyer of learning and experience.
1 He used to arrive in Cairo in the beginning of
Ramadán; but the beginning
of the first month, Moharram, has
of late been fixed upon, instead of the
former period.
When a person has a suit to prefer at the Mahkem'eh against
another
individual or party, he goes thither, and applies to the
“Básh Rusul” (or chief of the bailiffs or
sergeants who execute
arrests) for a “Rasool” to
arrest the accused. The Rasool receives
a piaster or two,
2 and generally gives
half of this fee
privately to his chief. The plaintiff and defendant then
present
themselves in the great hall of the Mahkem'eh, which is a
large
saloon, facing a spacious court, and having an open front formed
2 The Egyptian piaster is now equivalent to the
fifth part of a shilling, or 2⅖d.

by a row of columns and arches.
Here are seated several officers
called
“Sháhids,” whose business is to hear and write
the statements
of the cases to be submitted to judgment, and who are
under the authority of the “Básh
Kátib” (or Chief Secretary).
The plaintiff,
addressing any one of the Sháhids whom he finds
unoccupied,
states his case, and the Sháhid commits it to writing,
and
receives a fee of a piaster or more; after which, if the case be
of a
trifling nature, and the defendant acknowledge the justice of
the suit, he
(the Sháhid) passes sentence; but otherwise he conducts
the two
parties before the Náïb, who holds his court in an
inner apartment. The Náïb, having heard the case, desires
the
plaintiff to procure a “fetwa” (or judicial
decision) from the
Muftee of the sect of the Hanafees, who receives a fee,
seldom
less than ten piasters, and often more than a hundred or two
hundred. This is the course pursued in all cases but those of a
very
trifling nature, which are settled with less trouble, and those
of great
importance or intricacy. A case of the latter kind is
tried in the private
apartment of the Kádee, before the Kádee
himself, the
Náïb, and the Muftee of the Hanafees, who is summoned
to hear it, and to give his decision; and sometimes, in
cases of very great
difficulty or moment, several of the 'Ulama of
Cairo are, in like manner,
summoned. The Muftee hears the
case and writes his sentence, and the
Kádee confirms his judgment,
and stamps the paper with his seal,
which is all that he has to
do in any case. The accused may clear himself
by his oath when
the plaintiff has not witnesses to produce: placing his
right hand
on a copy of the Kur-án, which is held out to him, he
says, “By
God, the Great!” The witnesses must be men
of good
this of the word of God!” The witnesses must be men of
good
repute, or asserted to be such, and not interested in the cause:
in
every case at least two witnesses are requisite
1 (or one man and
two women); and each
of these must be attested to be a person
of probity by two others. An
infidel cannot bear witness against
a Muslim in a case involving capital or
other heavy punishment;
and evidence in favour of a son or grandson, or of
a father or
grandfather, is not received; nor is the testimony of
slaves;
neither can a master testify in favour of his slave.
1 This law is borrowed from the Jews. See Deut.
xix. 15.—A man may
refuse to give his testimony
The fees, until lately, used to be paid by the successful party;
but now
they are paid by the other party. The Kádee's fees for
decisions
in cases respecting the sale of property are two per cent.

on the amount of the property: in
cases of legacies, four
per cent., excepting when the heir is an orphan not
of age, who
pays only two per cent.: for decisions respecting property
in
houses or land, when the cost of the property in question is
known,
his fees are two per cent.; but when the cost is not
known, one year's
rent. These are the legitimate fees; but
more than the due amount is often
exacted. In cases which do
not concern property, the Kádee's
Náïb fixes the amount of the
fees. There are also
other fees than those of the Kádee to be
paid after the decision
of the case: for instance, if the Kádee's
fees be two or three
hundred piasters, a fee of about two piasters
must be paid to the
Básh Turgumán; about the same to the Básh
Rusul; and one piaster to the Rasool, or to each Rasool employed.
The rank of a plaintiff or defendant, or a bribe from either,
often
influences the decision of the judge. In general the
Náïb
and Muftee take bribes, and the Kádee
receives from his Náïb.
On some occasions,
particularly in long litigations, bribes are
given by each party, and the
decision is awarded in favour of him
who pays highest. This frequently
happens in difficult law-suits;
and even in cases respecting which the law
is perfectly clear,
strict justice is not always administered; bribes and
false testimony
being employed by one of the parties. The shocking
extent to which the practices of bribery and suborning false witnesses
are
carried in Muslim courts of law, and among them in
the tribunal of the
Kádee of
Cairo, may be scarcely credited on
the bare assertion
of the fact: some strong proof, resting on indubitable
authority, may be
demanded; and here I shall give
such proof, in a summary of a case which
was tried not long since,
and which was related to me by the Secretary and
Imám of the
Sheykh El-Mahdee, who was then supreme Muftee of
Cairo (being
the chief Muftee of the Hanafees), and to whom this case
was
referred after judgment in the Kádee's court.
A Turkish merchant, residing at
Cairo, died, leaving property
to the amount
of six thousand purses,
1
and no relation to inherit
but one daughter. The seyyid Mohammad
El-Mahrookee, the
Sháh-bandar (chief of the merchants of
Cairo),
hearing of this
event, suborned a common felláh, who was the
bowwáb (or doorkeeper)
of a respected sheykh, and whose parents
(both of them
Arabs) were known to many persons, to assert himself a son of
a
brother of the deceased. The case was brought before the
Kádee,
1 A purse is the sum of five hundred piasters,
and was then equivalent to
nearly seven pounds sterling, but is now
equal to only five pounds.

and, as it was one of considerable
importance, several of the
principal 'Ulama of the city were summoned to
decide it. They
were all bribed or influenced by El-Mahrookee, as will
presently
be shown; false witnesses were brought forward to swear to
the
truth of the bowwáb's pretensions, and others to give
testimony
to the good character of these witnesses. Three thousand
purses
were adjudged to the daughter of the deceased, and the other
half
of the property to the bowwáb. El-Mahrookee received the
share
of the latter, deducting only three hundred piasters, which he
presented to the bowwáb. The chief Muftee, El-Mahdee, was
absent
from
Cairo when the case was tried. On his return to
the metropolis, a few
days after, the daughter of the deceased
merchant repaired to his house,
stated her case to him, and
earnestly solicited redress. The Muftee, though
convinced of the
injustice which she had suffered, and not doubting the
truth of
what she related respecting the part which El-Mahrookee had
taken in this affair, told her that he feared it was impossible for
him to
annul the judgment, unless there were some informality in
the proceedings
of the court, but that he would look at the record
of the case in the
register of the Mahkem'eh. Having done this,
he betook himself to the
Básha, with whom he was in great favour
for his knowledge and
inflexible integrity, and complained to him
that the tribunal of the
Kádee was disgraced by the administration
of the most flagrant
injustice; that false witness was admitted by
the 'Ulama, however evident
and glaring it might be; and that a
judgment which they had given in a late
case, during his absence,
was the general talk and wonder of the town. The
Básha summoned
the Kádee talk and wonder of the town.
The Básha summeet
the Muftee in the Citadel; and when they had
assembled
there, addressed them, as from himself, with the Muftee's
complaint.
The Kádee, appearing, like the 'Ulama, highly
indignant
at this charge, demanded to know upon what it was grounded.
The Básha replied that it was a general charge, but particularly
grounded on the case in which the court had admitted the claim
of a
bowwáb to a relationship and inheritance which they could
not
believe to be his right. The Kádee here urged that he had
passed
sentence in accordance with the unanimous decision of the
'Ulama then
present. “Let the record of the case be read,” said
the Básha. The journal being sent for, this was done; and when
the secretary had finished reading the minutes, the Kádee, in a
loud tone of proud authority, said, “And I judged so.” The
Muftee,
in a louder and more authoritative tone, exclaimed, “And
thy

judgment is false!” All
eyes were fixed in astonishment, now
at the Muftee, now at the
Básha, now at the other 'Ulama. The
Kádee and the
'Ulama rolled their heads and stroked their beards.
The former exclaimed,
tapping his breast, “I, the Kádee of
Misr, pass a
false sentence!” “And we,” said the 'Ulama,
“we,
Sheykh Mahdee! we, 'Ulama el-Islám, give a false
decision!”
“O Sheykh Mahdee,” said
El-Mahrookee (who, from his commercial
transactions with the
Básha, could generally obtain a
place in his councils),
“respect the 'Ulama as they respect
thee!”
“O Mahrookee!” exclaimed the Muftee, “art thou
concerned
in this affair? Declare what part thou hast in it, or else
hold thy peace: go, speak in the assemblies of the merchants,
but presume
not again to open thy mouth in the council of the
'Ulama!”
El-Mahrookee immediately left the palace, for he saw
how the affair would
terminate, and had to make his arrangements
accordingly. The Muftee was now
desired, by the other 'Ulama,
to adduce a proof of the invalidity of their
decision. Drawing
from his bosom a small book on the laws of inheritance,
he read
from it, “To establish a claim to relationship and
inheritance, the
names of the father and the mother of the claimant, and
those of
his father's father and mother, and of his mother's father
and
mother, must be ascertained.” The names of the father
and
mother of the pretended father of the bowwáb the false
witnesses
had not been prepared to give; and this deficiency in
the
testimony (which the 'Ulama, in trying the case, purposely
overlooked) now
caused the sentence to be annulled. The
bowwáb was brought
before the council, and, denying the imposition
of which he had been made
the principal instrument,
was, by order of the Básha, very
severely bastinaded; but the
only confession that could be drawn from him
by the torture
which he endured was, that he had received nothing more of
the
three thousand purses than three hundred piasters. Meanwhile,
El-Mahrookee had repaired to the bowwáb's master: he told the
latter what had happened at the Citadel, and what he had foreseen
would be
the result, put into his hand three thousand purses, and
begged him
immediately to go to the council, give this sum of
money, and say that it
had been placed in his hands in trust by
his servant. This was done, and
the money was paid to the
daughter of the deceased.
In another case, when the Kádee and the council of the 'Ulama
were influenced in their decision by a Básha (not Mohammad
‘Alee), and passed a sentence contrary to law, they were thwarted

in the same manner by El-Mahdee.
This Muftee was a rare
example of integrity. It is said that he never took
a fee for a
fetwa. He died shortly after my first visit to this
country.—I
could mention several other glaring cases of bribery
in the court
of the Kádee of
Cairo; but the above is sufficient.
There are five minor Mahkem'ehs in
Cairo; and likewise one
at its principal
port, Boolák; and one at its southern port,
Masr El-'Ateekah. A
Sháhid from the great Mahkem'eh presides at
each of them, as
deputy of the chief Kádee, who confirms their
acts. The matters
submitted to these minor tribunals are chiefly
respecting the sales of
property, and legacies, marriages, and
divorces; for the Kádee
marries female orphans under age who
have no relations of age to act as
their guardians; and wives
often have recourse to law to compel their
husbands to divorce
them. In every country-town there is also a
Kádee, generally a
native of the place, and never a Turk, who
decides all cases,
sometimes from his own knowledge of the law, but
commonly on
the authority of a Muftee. One Kádee generally
serves for two or
three or more villages.
Each of the four orthodox sects of the Muslims (the Hanafees,
Sháfe'ees, Málikees, and Hambel'ees) has its
“Sheykh,” or religious
chief, who is chosen from
among the most learned of the
body, and resides in the metropolis. The
Sheykh of the great
mosque El-Azhar (who is always of the sect of the
Sháfe'ees, and
sometimes Sheykh of that sect), together with the
other Sheykhs
above mentioned, and the Kádee, the Nakeeb
el-Ashráf (the
chief of the Shereefs, or descendants of the
Prophet), and several
other persons, constitute the council of the
'Ulama
1 (or
learned
men), by whom the Turkish Báshas and Memlook chiefs
have
often been kept in awe, and by whom their tyranny has frequently
been restricted: but now this learned body has lost almost all its
influence over the government. Petty disputes are often, by
mutual consent
of the parties at variance, submitted to the judgment
of one of the four
Sheykhs first mentioned, as they are the
chief Muftees of their respective
sects; and the utmost deference
is always paid to them. Difficult and
delicate causes, which
concern the laws of the Kur-án or the
Traditions, are also
frequently referred by the Básha to these
Sheykhs; but their
opinion is not always followed by him: for instance,
after consulting
1 In the singular “A'lim.”
This title is more particularly given to a professor
of jurisprudence.
European writers generally use the plural form of
this appellation for
the singular.

them respecting the legality of
dissecting human bodies,
for the sake of acquiring anatomical knowledge,
and receiving
their declaration that it was repugnant to the laws of the
religion,
he, nevertheless, has caused it to be practised by Muslim
students
of anatomy.
The police of the metropolis is more under the direction of the
military
than of the civil power. A few years ago it was under
the authority of the
“Wálee” and the
“Zábit;” but since my
first visit to this
country the office of the former has been abolished.
He was charged with
the apprehension of thieves and other
criminals; and under his jurisdiction
were the public women, of
whom he kept a list, and from each of whom he
exacted a tax.
He also took cognizance of the conduct of the women in
general;
and when he found a female to have been guilty of a single
act
of incontinence, he added her name to the list of the public
women, and demanded from her the tax, unless she preferred, or
could
afford, to escape that ignominy, by giving to him, or to his
officers, a
considerable bribe. This course was always pursued,
and is still, by a
person who farms the tax of the of public women,
1
in the case of unmarried females, and generally in the case of the
married also; but the latter are sometimes privately put to death,
if they
cannot, by bribery or some other artifice, save themselves.
Such
proceedings are, however, in two points, contrary to the
law, which ordains
that a person who accuses a woman of adultery
or fornication, without
producing four witnesses of the crime,
shall be scourged with eighty
stripes, and decrees other punishments
than those of degradation and
tribute against women convicted
of such offences.
1 Since this was written, the public women
throughout Egypt have been
compelled to relinquish their licentious
profession.
The office of the Zábit has before been mentioned. He is
now the
chief of the police. His officers, who have no distinguishing
mark to
render them known as such, are interspersed
through the metropolis: they
often visit the coffee-shops, and
observe the conduct, and listen to the
conversation, of the citizens.
Many of them are pardoned thieves. They
accompany the military
guards in their nightly rounds through the streets
of the metropolis.
Here, none but the blind are allowed to go out at
night
later than about an hour and a half after sunset, without a
lantern or a light of some kind. Few persons are seen in the
streets later
than two or three hours after sunset. At the fifth or
sixth hour, one might
pass through the whole length of the metropolis

and scarcely meet more than a dozen
or twenty persons,
excepting the watchmen and guards, and the porters at
the gates
of the bye-streets and quarters. The sentinel, or guard, calls
out
to the approaching passenger, in Turkish, “Who is
that?” and
is answered in Arabic, “A
citizen.”
1 The private watchman, in
the same case exclaims,
“Attest the unity of God!” or merely,
“Attest the unity!”
2 The reply given to this is, “There is
no
deity but God!” which Christians, as well as Muslims,
object
not to say; the former understanding these words in a different
sense from the latter. It is supposed that a thief, or a person
bound on
any unlawful undertaking, would not dare to utter these
words. Some persons
loudly exclaim, in reply to the summons
of the watchman, “There
is no deity but God: Mohammad is
God's Apostle.” The private
watchmen are employed to guard,
by night, the sooks (or market-streets) and
other districts of the
town. They carry a nebboot (or long staff), but no
lantern.
1 “Ibn beled.” If blind,
he answers, “Aama.”
2 “Wahhed;” or, to more
than one person, “Wahhedoo.”
The Zábit, or A'gha of the police, used frequently to go about
the metropolis by night, often accompanied only by the executioner
and the
“shealeg'ee,” or bearer of a kind of torch called
“shealeh,” which is still in use.
3 This torch burns, soon after it
is
lighted, without a flame, excepting when it is waved through
the air, when
it suddenly blazes forth: it therefore answers the
same purpose as our dark
lantern. The burning end is sometimes
concealed in a small pot or jar, or
covered with something else,
when not required to give light; but it is
said that thieves often
smell it in time to escape meeting the bearer. When
a person
without a light is met by the police at night, he seldom
attempts
resistance or flight; the punishment to which he is liable is
beating.
The chief of the police had an arbitrary power to put any
criminal or offender to death without trial, and when not obnoxious,
by
law, to capital punishment; and so also had many inferior
officers, as will
be seen in subsequent pages of this work: but
within the last two or three
years, instances of the exercise of such
power have been very rare, and I
believe they would not now be
permitted. The officers of the
Zábit perform their nightly rounds
with the military guards
merely as being better acquainted than
3 Baron Hammer-Purgstall is mistaken in
substituting “Meshaaledschi”
for
“Shealeg'ee.” The officer who bears the latter
appellation does not carry
a mesh'al, but a twisted torch. The mesh'al
is described and figured in
Chap. vi.

the latter with the haunts and
practices of thieves and other bad
characters; and the Zábit
himself scarcely ever exercises any
penal authority beyond that of beating
or flogging.
Very curious measures, such as we read of in some of the tales
of
“the Thousand and One Nights,” were often adopted by
the
police magistrates of
Cairo, to discover an offender, before the
police magistrates of
Cairo, to discover an offender, before the
late
innovations. I may mention an instance. The authenticity
of the following
case, and of several others of a similar nature, is
well known. I shall
relate it in the manner in which I have heard
it told.—A poor
man applied one day to the A'gha of the police,
and said, “Sir,
there came to me, to-day, a woman, and she said
to me, ‘Take
this “kurs,”
1 and let it remain in your possession
for a time,
and lend me five hundred piasters:' and I took it
from her, Sir, and gave
her the five hundred piasters, and she
went away: and when she was gone
away, I said to myself, ‘Let
me look at this kurs;' and I looked
at it, and behold, it was
yellow brass: and I slapped my face, and said,
‘I will go to the
A'gha, and relate my story to him; perhaps he
will investigate
the affair, and clear it up;' for there is none that can
help me in
this matter but thou.” The A'gha said to him,
“Hear what I
tell thee, man. Take whatever is in thy shop; leave
nothing;
and lock it up; and to-morrow morning go early; and when thou
hast opened the shop, cry out, ‘Alas for my property!' then take
in thy hands two clods, and beat thyself with them, and cry,
‘Alas for the property of others!' and whoever says to thee,
‘What is the matter with thee?' do thou answer, ‘The
property
of others is lost: a pledge that I had, belonging to a woman,
is
lost; if it were my own, I should not thus lament it;' and this
will clear up the affair.” The man promised to do as he was
desired. He removed everything from his shop, and early the
next morning he
went and opened it, and began to cry out, “Alas
for the property
of others!” and he took two clods, and beat
himself with them,
and went about every district of the city,
crying, “Alas for the
property of others! a pledge that I had,
belonging to a woman, is lost; if
it were my own, I should not
thus lament it.” The woman who had
given him the kurs in
pledge heard of this, and discovered that it was the
man whom
she had cheated; so she said to herself, “Go and bring
an action
against him.” She went to his shop, riding on an ass,
to give
herself consequence, and said to him, “Man, give me my
property
1 An ornament worn on the crown of the
head-dress by women, described
in the Appendix to this work.

that is in thy
possession.” He answered, “It is lost.”
“Thy tongue be cut out!” she cried: “dost thou
lose my
property? By Allah! I will go to the A'gha, and inform him of
it.” “Go,” said he; and she went, and told her
case. The
A'gha sent for the man; and, when he had come, said to his
accuser, ‘What is thy property in his possession?” She
answered,
“A kurs of red Venetian gold.”
“Woman,” said the A'gha, “I
have a gold
kurs here: I should like to show it thee.” She said,
“Show it me, Sir, for I shall know my kurs.” The A'gha
then
untied a handkerchief, and, taking out of it the kurs which she
had given in pledge, said, “Look.” She looked at it and
knew
it, and hung down her head. The A'gha said, “Raise thy
head,
and say where are the five hundred piasters of this man.”
She
answered, “Sir, they are in my house.” The
executioner was
sent with her to her house, but without his sword; and
the
woman, having gone into the house, brought out a purse containing
the money, and went back with him. The money was given to
the man from whom
it had been obtained, and the executioner
was then ordered to take the
woman to the Rumeyleh (a large
open place below the Citadel), and there to
behead her; which
he did.
The markets of
Cairo, and the weights and measures, are under
the inspection
of an officer called the “Mohtes'ib.” He occasionally
rides about the town, preceded by an officer who carries
a large pair of
scales, and followed by the executioners and
numerous other servants.
Passing by shops, or through the markets,
he orders each shopkeeper, one
after another, or sometimes only
one here and there, to produce his scales,
weights, and measures,
and tries whether they be correct. He also inquires
the prices of
provisions at the shops where such articles are sold. Often,
too,
he stops a servant, or other passenger in the street, whom he may
chance to meet carrying any article of food that he has just
bought, and
asks him for what sum, or at what weight, he purchased
it. When he finds
that a shopkeeper has incorrect
scales, weights, or measures, or that he
has sold a thing deficient
in weight, or above the regular market price, he
punishes him on
the spot. The general punishment is beating or flogging.
Once
I saw a man tormented in a different way, for selling bread
deficient in weight. A hole was bored through his nose, and a
cake of
bread, about a span wide, and a finger's breadth in thickness,
was
suspended to it by a piece of string. He was stripped
naked, with the
exception of having a piece of linen about his

loins, and tied, with his arms
bound behind him, to the bars of a
window of a mosque called the
Ashrafeeyeh, in the main street
of the metropolis, his feet resting upon
the sill. He remained
thus about three hours, exposed to the gaze of the
multitude which
thronged the street, and to the scorching rays of the sun.
A person who was appointed Mohtes'ib shortly after my former
visit to this
country (Mustaf'a Káshif, a Kurd) exercised his power
in a most
brutal manner, clipping men's ears (that is, cutting off
the lobe, or
ear-lap), not only for the most trifling transgression,
but often of no
offence whatever. He once met an old man,
driving along several asses laden
with water-melons, and pointing
to one of the largest of these fruits,
asked its price. The old
man put his finger and thumb to his ear-lap, and
said, “Cut it,
Sir.” He was asked again and again,
and gave the same answer.
The Mohtes'ib, angry, but unable to refrain from
laughing, said,
“Fellow, are you mad or deaf?”
“No,” replied the old man,
“I am neither
mad nor deaf; but I know that, if I were to say
the price of the melon is
ten faddahs, you would say, ‘Clip his
ear'; and if I said
five faddahs, or
one faddah, you
would say,
‘Clip his ear'; therefore clip it at once, and let me
pass on.”
His humour saved him.—Clipping ears was the
usual punishment
inflicted by this Mohhtes'ib; but sometimes he tortured in
a
different manner. A butcher, who had sold some meat wanting
two
ounces of its due weight, he punished by cutting off two
ounces of flesh
from his back. A seller of “kunáfeh” (a
kind
of paste resembling vermicelli) having made his customers pay a
trifle more than was just, he caused him to be stripped, and
seated upon
the round copper tray on which the kunáfeh was
baked, and kept
so until he was dreadfully burnt. He generally
punished dishonest butchers
by putting a hook through their
nose, and hanging a piece of meat to it.
Meeting, one day, a
man carrying a large crate full of earthen
water-bottles from
Semennood, which he offered for sale as made at
Kinë, he
caused his attendants to break each bottle separately
against the
vendor's head. Mustafa Káshif also exercised his
tyranny in
other cases than those which properly fell under his
jurisdiction.
He once took a fancy to send one of his horses to a bath,
and
desired the keeper of a bath in his neighbourhood to prepare for
receiving it, and to wash it well, and make its coat very smooth.
The
bath-keeper, annoyed at so extraordinary a command, ventured
to suggest
that, as the pavements of the bath were of
marble, the horse might slip,
and fall; and also, that it might

take cold on going out; and that it
would, therefore, be better
for him to convey to the stable the contents of
the cistern of the
bath in buckets, and there to perform the operation.
Mustafa
Káshif said, “I see how it is; you do not
like that my horse
should go into your bath.” He desired some of
his servants to
throw him down, and beat him with staves until he should
tell
them to stop. They did so; and beat the poor man till he died.
A few years ago there used to be carried before the Mohtes'ib,
when going
his rounds to examine the weights and measures, etc.,
a pair of scales
larger than that used at present. Its beam, it is
said, was a hollow tube,
containing some quicksilver; by means
of which, the bearer, knowing those
persons who had bribed his
master, and those who had not, easily made
either scale preponderate.
As the Mohtes'ib is the overseer of the public markets, so
there are
officers who have a similar charge in superintending
each branch of the
Básha's trade and manufactures; and some
of these persons have
been known to perpetrate most abominable
acts of tyranny any cruelty. One
of this class, who was named
'Alee Bey, “Názir
el-Kumásh” (or Overseer of the Linen), when
he found
a person in possession of a private loom, or selling the
produce of such a
loom, generally bound him up in a piece of
his linen, soaked in oil and
tar; then suspended him, thus enveloped,
to a branch of a tree, and set
light to the wrapper.
After having destroyed a number of men in this
horrible manner,
he was himself, among many others, burnt to death, by the
explosion
of a powder-magazine on the northern slope of the Citadel
of
Cairo, in 1824, the year before my first arrival in Egypt. A
friend of
mine, who spoke to me of the atrocities of this monster,
added,
“When his corpse was taken to be buried, the Sheykh
El-'Aroosee
(who was Sheykh of the great mosque El-Azhar)
recited the funeral prayers
over it, in the mosque of the
Hasaneyn; and I acted as
‘muballigh' (to repeat the words of
the Imám): when
the Sheykh uttered the words, ‘Give your
testimony respecting
him,' and when I had repeated them, no
one of all the persons present, and
they were many, presumed to
give the answer, ‘He was of the
virtuous': all were silent. To
make the circumstance more glaring, I said
again, ‘Give your
testimony respecting him:' but not an answer
was heard; and
the Sheykh, in confusion, said, but in a very low voice,
‘May
God have mercy upon him.' Now we may certainly say of
this
cursed man,” continued my friend, “that he is
gone to hell: yet

his wife is constantly having
‘khatmehs' (recitations of the
Kur-án) performed in
her house for him; and lights two wax
candles, for his sake, every evening,
at the niche of the mosque
of the Hasaneyn.”
Every quarter in the metropolis has its sheykh, called “Sheykh
el-Hárah,” whose influence is exerted to maintain order,
to settle
any trifling disputes among the inhabitants, and to expel
those
who disturb the peace of their neighbours. The whole of the
metropolis is also divided into eight districts, over each of which
is a
sheykh, called “Sheykh et-Tumn.”
The members of various trades and manufactures in the metropolis
and other
large towns have also their respective sheykhs, to
whom all disputes
respecting matters connected with those trades
or crafts are submitted for
arbitration; and whose sanction is
required for the admission of new
members.
The servants in the metropolis are likewise under the authority
of
particular sheykhs. Any person in want of a servant may
procure one by
applying to one of these officers, who, for a small
fee (two or three
piasters), becomes responsible for the conduct
of the man whom he
recommends. Should a servant so engaged
rob his master, the later gives
information to the sheykh, who,
whether he can recover the stolen property
or not, must indemnify the master.
Even the common thieves used, not many years since, to
respect a superior,
who was called their sheykh. He was often
required to search for stolen
goods, and to bring offenders to
justice; which he generally accomplished.
It is very remarkable
that the same strange system prevailed among the
ancient
Egyptians.
1
1 See Diodorus Siculus, lib. i., cap. 80.
The Coptic Patriarch, who is the head of his church, judges
petty causes
among his people in the metropolis; and the inferior
clergy do the same in
other places; but an appeal may be made
to the Kádee. A Muslim
aggrieved by a Copt may demand
justice from the Patriarch or the
Kádee: a Copt who seeks
redress from a Muslim must apply to the
Kádee. The Jews are
similarly circumstanced. The Franks, or
Europeans in general,
are not answerable to any other authority than that
of their
respective consuls, excepting when they are aggressors against
a
Muslim: they are then surrendered to the Turkish authorities,
who,
on the other hand, will render justice to the Frank who is
aggrieved by a
Muslim.
The inhabitants of the country-towns and villages are under
the government
of Turkish officers and of their own countrymen.
The whole of Egypt is
divided into several large provinces, each
of which is governed by an
'Osmánlee (or a Turk); and these
provinces are subdivided into
districts, which are governed by
native officers, with the titles of
“Mamoor and Názir.” Every
village, as well
as town, has also its Sheykh, called “Sheykh
el-Beled;” who is one of the native Muslim inhabitants. All the
officers above mentioned, excepting the last, were formerly Turks;
and
there were other Turkish governors of small districts, who
were called
“Ká-shifs,” and
“Káïm-makáms:” the change
was
made very shortly before my present visit to this country; and
the
Felláheen complain that their condition is worse than it was
before; but it is generally from the tyranny of their great Turkish
governors that they suffer most severely.
The following case will convey some idea of the condition of
Egyptian
peasants in some provinces. A Turk,
1 infamous for
many barbarous acts, presiding at
the town of
Tanta, in the
Delta, went one night to the government-granary
of that town,
and, finding two peasants sleeping there, asked them who
they
were, and what was their business in that place. One of them
said
that he had brought 130 ardebbs of corn from a village of
the district; and
the other, that he had brought 60 ardebbs from
the land belonging to the
town. “You rascal!” said the governor
to the latter;
“this man brings 130 ardebbs from the lands
of a small village;
and you, but 60 from the lands of the town.”
“This
man,” answered the peasant of
Tanta, “brings corn but
once a week; and I am now bringing it every day.” “Be
silent!” said the governor; and, pointing to a neighbouring
tree,
he ordered one of the servants of the granary to hang the
peasant
to one of its branches. The order was obeyed, and the governor
returned to his house. The next morning he went again to the
granary, and
saw a man brining in a large quantity of corn. He
asked who he was, and
what quantity he had brought; and was
answered, by the hangman of the
preceding night, “This is the
man, Sir, whom I hanged by your
orders, last night; and he has
brought 160 ardebbs.”
“What!” exclaimed the governor: “has
he
risen from the dead?” He was answered, “No, Sir; I
hanged
him so that his toes touched the ground; and when you were
gone, I untied the rope: you did not order me to
kill
him.” The
Turk muttered, “Aha! hanging and
killing are different things:
1 Suleymán A'gha, the
Silahdár.

Arabic is copious: next time I will
say kill. Take care of Aboo-Dá-ood.”
1
This is his nick-name.
1 Aboo-Dá-ood, Aboo-' Alee, etc., are
patronymics, used by the Egyptian
peasants in general, not as
signifying “Father of Dá-ood,”
“Father of 'Alee,”
etc., but “whose
father is (or was) Dá-ood,”
“—Alee,” etc.
Another occurrence may here be aptly related, as a further
illustration of
the nature of the government to which the people
of Egypt are subjected. A
felláh, who was appointed Názir (or
governor) of the
district of El-Manoofeeyeh (the southernmost
district of the Delta), a
short time before my present visit to
Egypt, in collecting the taxes at a
village, demanded, of a poor
peasant, the sum of sixty riyáls
(ninety faddahs each, making a
sum total of a hundred and thirty-five
piasters, which was then
equivalent to about thirty shillings). The poor
man urged that
he possessed nothing but a cow, which barely afforded
sustenance
to himself and his family. Instead of pursuing the method
usually followed when a felláh declares himself unable to pay
the
tax demanded of him, which is to give him a severe bastinading,
the Názir, in this case, sent the Sheykh el-Beled to bring the
poor peasant's cow, and desired some of the felláheen to buy it.
They saying that they had not sufficient money, he sent for a
butcher, and
desired him to kill the cow; which was done: he
then told him to divide it
into sixty pieces. The butcher asked
for his pay; and was given the head of
the cow. Sixty felláheen
were then called together; and each of
them was compelled to
purchase, for a riyál, a piece of the cow.
The owner of the cow
went, weeping and complaining, to the
Názir's superior, the late
Mohammad Bey, Deftardár.
“O my master,” said he, “I am
oppressed
and in misery: I had no property but one cow, a
milch cow: I and my family
lived upon her milk; and she
ploughed for me, and threshed my corn; and my
whole subsistence
was derived from her: the Názir has taken her,
and
killed her, and cut her up into sixty pieces, and sold the pieces
to my neighbours—to each a piece, for one riyál; so that
he
obtained but sixty riyáls for the whole, while the value of
the
cow was a hundred and twenty riyáls, or more. I am
oppressed
and in misery, and a stranger in the place, for I came from
another village; but the Názir had no pity on me. I and my
family are become beggars, and have nothing left. Have mercy
upon me, and
give me justice: I implore it by thy hareem.”
The
Deftardár, having caused the Názir to be brought
before
him, asked him, “Where is the cow of this
felláh?” “I have

sold it,” said the
Názir. “For how much?” “For sixty
riyáls.”
“Why did you kill it and sell
it?” “He owed sixty riyáls for
land: so I
took his cow, and killed it, and sold it for the
amount.”
“Where is the butcher that killed it?” “In
Manoof.” The butcher was sent for, and brought. The
Deftardár said to him, “Why did you kill this man's
cow?”
“The Názir desired me,”
he answered, “and I could not oppose
him: if I had attempted to
do so, he would have beaten me, and
destroyed my house: I killed it; and
the Názir gave me the
head as my reward.”
“Man,” said the Deftradár, “do you
know
the persons who bought the meat?” The butcher replied
that
he did. The Deftardár then desired his secretary to write
the
names of the sixty men, and an order to the sheykh of their
village to bring them to Manoof, where this complaint was made.
The
Názir and butcher were placed in confinement till the next
morning; when the sheykh of the village came, with the sixty
felláheen. The two prisoners were then brought again before
the
Deftardár, who said to the sheykh and the sixty peasants,
“Was the value of this man's cow sixty riyáls?”
“O our
master,” they answered, “her value
was greater.” The Deftardár
sent for the
Kádee of Manoof, and said to him, “O Kádee,
here
is a man oppressed by this Názir, who has taken his cow,
and
killed it; and sold its flesh for sixty riyáls. What is thy
judgment?”
The Kádee replied, “He is a
cruel tyrant, who
oppresses every one under his authority. Is not a cow
worth a
hundred and twenty riyáls, or more? and he has sold this
one for
sixty riyáls: this is tyranny towards the
owner.” The Deftardár
then said to some of his
soldiers, “Take the Názir, and strip
him, and bind
him.” This done, he said to the butcher,
“Butcher,
dost thou not fear God? Thou has killed the cow
unjustly.” The
butcher again urged that he was obliged to obey
the Názir.
“Then,” said the Deftardár, “if I
order thee to do
a thing, wilt thou do it?” “I will
do it,” answered the butcher.
“Slaughter the
Názir,” said the Deftardár. Immediately,
several
of the soldiers present seized the Názir, and threw him
down;
and the butcher cut his throat, in the regular orthodox manner
of killing animals for food. “Now, cut him up,” said
the
Deftardár, “into sixty pieces.” This
was done: the people concerned
in the affair, and many others, looking on;
but none
daring to speak. The sixty peasants who had bought the meat
of the cow were then called forward, one after another, and each
was made
to take a piece of the flesh of the Názir, and to pay for it

two riyáls; so that a
hundred and twenty riyáls were obtained from
them. They were
then dismissed; but the butcher remained.
The Kádee was asked
what should be the reward of the butcher;
and answered that he should be
paid as he had been paid by the
Názir. The Deftardár
therefore ordered that the head of the
Názir should be given to
him; and the butcher went away with
his worse than valueless burden,
thanking God that he had not
been more unfortunate, and scarcely believing
himself to have so
easily escaped until he arrived at his village. The
money paid
for the flesh of the Názir was given to the owner of
the cow.
Most of the governors of provinces and districts carry their
oppression far
beyond the limits to which they are authorized to
proceed by the
Básha; and even the sheykh of a village, in
executing the
commands of his superiors, abuses his lawful
power: bribes, and the ties of
relationship and marriage,
influence him and them, and by lessening the
oppression of
some, who are more able to bear it, greatly increase that
of
others. But the office of a sheykh of a village is far from being
a
sinecure: at the period when the taxes are demanded of him,
he frequently
receives a more severe bastinading than any of his
inferiors; for when the
population of a village does not yield the
sum required, their sheykh is
often beaten for their default: and
not always does he produce his own
proportion until he has been
well thrashed. All the felláheen
are proud of the stripes they
receive for withholding their contributions;
and are often heard
to boast of the number of blows which were inflicted
upon them
before they would give up their money. Ammianus Marcellinus
gives precisely the same character to the Egyptians of his time.
1
1 Lib, xxii. The more easily the peasant pays,
the more is he made to pay.
The revenue of the Básha of Egypt is generally said to amount
to
about three millions of pounds sterling.
2 Nearly half arises
from the direct taxes on
land, and from indirect exactions from
the felláheen: the
remainder, principally from the custom-taxes,
the tax on palm-trees, a kind
of income-tax, and the sale of
various productions of the land; by which
sale, the government,
in most instances, obtains a profit of more than
fifty per cent.
2 Some estimate it at five millions; others, at little more than two
millions.
The present Básha has increased his revenue to this amount
by
most oppressive measures. He has dispossessed of their
lands almost all the
private proprietors throughout Egypt, allotting

to each, as a partial compensation,
a pension for life, proportioned
to the extent and quality of the land
which belonged
to him. The farmer has, therefore, nothing to leave to
his
children but his hut, and perhaps a few cattle and some small
savings.
The direct taxes on land are proportioned to the natural
advantages of the
soil. Their average amount is about 8
s. per
feddán, which is nearly equal to an English acre.
1 But the
cultivator
can never calculate exactly the full amount of what the
government will require of him: he suffers from indirect exactions
of
quantities (differing in different years, but always levied per
feddán) of butter, honey, wax, wool, baskets of palm-leaves,
ropes
of the fibres of the palm-tree, and other commodities: he is
also
obliged to pay the hire of the camels which convey his grain to
the government shooneh (or granary), and to defray various other
expenses.
A portion of the produce of his land is taken by the
government,
2 and sometimes the
whole produce, at a fixed and
fair price, which, however, in many parts of
Egypt, is retained to
make up for the debts of the insolvent peasants.
3 The
felláh,
to supply the bare necessaries of life, is often obliged
to steal,
and convey secretly to his hut, as much as he can of the
produce
of his land. He may either himself supply the seed for his
land,
or obtain it as a loan from the government: but in the latter
case
he seldom obtains a sufficient quantity, a considerable portion
being generally stolen by the persons through whose hands it
passes before
he receives it. To relate all the oppressions which
the peasantry of Egypt
endure from the dishonesty of the Mamoors
and inferior officers would
require too much space in the
present work. It would be scarcely possible
for them to suffer
more, and live. It may be hardly necessary, therefore,
to add,
that few of them engage, with assiduity, in the labours of
agriculture,
unless compelled to do so by their superiors.
1 The feddán has lately been reduced:
it was equal to about an English
acre and one-tenth a few years ago;
and somewhat more at an earlier period.
2 Of some productions, as cotton, flax, etc.,
the government always takes
the whole.
3 Even the debts of the peasantry of one village
are often imposed upon
the inhabitants of another who have paid all
that is justly due from them.
The Básha has not only taken possession of the lands of the
private proprietors, but he has also thrown into his treasury a
considerable
proportion of the incomes of religious and charitable
institutions,
deeming their accumulated wealth superfluous. He first

imposed a tax (of nearly half the
amount of the regular land-tax)
upon all land which had become a
“wakf” (or legacy unalienable by
law) to any mosque,
fountain, public school, etc.; and afterwards
took absolute possession of
such lands, granting certain annuities
in lieu of them, for keeping in
repair the respective buildings, and
for the maintenance of those persons
attached to them, as Názirs
(or wardens), religious ministers,
inferior servants, students, and
other pensioners. He has thus rendered
himself extremely odious
to most persons of the religious and learned
professions, and especially
to the Názirs of the mosques, who
too generally enriched
themselves from the funds intrusted to their care,
which were,
in most cases, superabundant. The
household property of the
mosques and other public institutions (the
wakfs of numerous
individuals of various ranks) the Básha has
hitherto left inviolate.
The tax upon the palm-trees has been calculated to amount to
about a hundred
thousand pounds sterling. The trees are rated
according to their qualities;
generally at a piaster and a half each.
The income-tax, which is called “firdeh,” is generally a
twelfth
or more of a man's annual income or salary, when that can be
ascertained. The maximum, however, is fixed at five hundred
piasters. In
the large towns it is levied upon individuals; in the
villages upon houses.
The income-tax of all the inhabitants of
the metropolis amounts to eight
thousand purses, or about forty
thousand pounds sterling.
The inhabitants of the metropolis and of other large towns pay
a heavy tax
on grain, etc. The tax on each kind of grain is eighteen
piasters per
ardebb (or about five bushels); which sum is
equal to the price of wheat in
the country after a good harvest.
1
1 The above account of the government of Egypt,
having been written in
the years 1834 and 1835, is not altogether
correct with respect to the present
time (1842). Great changes are now
being made in various departments; and
as the Básha has no
longer to maintain an enormous military and naval force,
he will be
able to ameliorate very considerably the condition of the people
whom
he governs. Most of the evils of which the people of Egypt have
hitherto had to complain have arisen from the vast expense incurred in
war,
from the conscription, and from the dishonesty of almost all the
Básha's civil
officers.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER V.
DOMESTIC LIFE.
HAVING sufficiently considered the foundations of the moral and
social state
of the Muslims of Egypt, we may now take a view of
their domestic life and
ordinary habits; and, first, let us confine
our attention to the higher and
middle orders.
A master of a family, or any person who has arrived at manhood,
and is not
in a menial situation, or of very low condition,
is commonly honoured with
the appellation of “the sheykh,” prefixed
to his
name. The word “sheykh” literally signifies
“an
elder,” or “an aged
person”; but it is often used as synonymous
with our appellation
of “Mister”; though more particularly
applied to a
learned man, or a reputed saint. A “shereef,” or
descendant of the Prophet, is called “the seyd,” or
“the seyyid”
(master, or lord), whatever be his
station. Many shereefs are
employed in the lowest offices: there are
servants, dustmen, and
beggars, of the honoured race of Mohammad; but all
of them
are entitled to the distinctive appellation above mentioned,
and
privileged to wear the green turban;
1 many of them, however,
not only among those of
humble station, but also among the
wealthy, and particularly the learned,
assume neither of these
prerogatives; preferring the title of
“sheykh,” and the white
turban. A man who has
performed the pilgrimage is generally
called “the
hágg;”
2 and a woman who has alike distinguished
herself,
“the hággeh:” yet there are many pilgrims who,
like
those shereefs just before alluded to, prefer the title of
“sheykh.”
The general appellation of a lady is
“the sitt,” which signifies
“the
mistress,” or “the lady.”
1 Men and women of this race often contract
marriages with persons who
are not members of the same; and as the
title of shereef is inherited from
either of the parents, the number of
persons who enjoy this distinction has
become very considerable.
2 This word is thus pronounced by the
inhabitants of Cairo and the greater
part of Egypt; but in most other
countries where Arabic is spoken,
“hájj.”
The Turks and Persians use,
instead of it, the synonymous Arabic word
“hájjee.”
Before I describe the ordinary habits of the master of a family,
I must
mention the various classes of persons of whom the
family may consist. The
hareem, or the females of the house,
have distinct apartments alloted to
them; and into these apartments

(which, as well as the persons to
whom they are appropriated,
are called “the hareem”)
no males are allowed to enter, excepting
the master of the family, and
certain other near relations, and
children. The hareem may consist, first,
of a wife, or wives (to
the number of four); secondly, of female slaves,
some of whom,
namely, white and Abyssinian slaves, are generally
concubines,
and others (the black slaves) kept merely for servile offices,
as
cooking, waiting upon the ladies, etc.; thirdly, of female free
servants, who are, in no case, concubines, or not legitimately so.
The male
dependants may consist of white and of black slaves,
and free servants; but
are mostly of the last-mentioned class.
Very few of the Egyptians avail
themselves of the licence, which
their religion allows them, of having four
wives; and still smaller
is the number of those who have two or more wives,
and concubines
besides. Even most of those men who have but one wife
are content, for the sake of domestic peace, if for no other
reason, to
remain without a concubine slave: but some prefer the
possession of an
Abyssinian slave to the more expensive maintenance
of a wife; and keep a
black slave-girl, or an Egyptian female
servant, to wait upon her, to clean
and keep in order the apartments
of the hareem, and to cook. It is seldom
that two
or more wives are kept in the same house: if they be, they
generally have distinct apartments. Of male servants, the master
of a
family keeps, if he can afford to do so, one or more to wait
upon him and
his male guests: another, who is called a “sakka,”
or
water-carrier, but who is particularly a servant of the hareem,
and attends
the ladies when they go out;
1 a “bowwáb,” or doorkeeper,
who
constantly sits at the door of the house; and a
“sáïs,”
or groom, for the
horse, mule, or ass. Few of the Egyptians have
“memlooks,” or male white slaves; most of these being in
the
possession of rich 'Osmánlees (Turks); and scarcely any
but
Turks of high rank keep eunuchs: but a wealthy Egyptian merchant
is proud of having a black slave to ride or walk behind him,
and to carry
his pipe.
1 Unless there be a eunuch. The sakka is
generally the chief of the servants.
The Egyptian is a very early riser; as he riser; as he retires to sleep at
an
early hour: it is his duty to be up and dressed before daybreak,
when he should say the morning-prayers. In general, while the
master of a
family is performing the religious ablution, and saying
his prayers, his
wife or slave is preparing for him a cup of coffee,
and filling his pipe,
which she presents to him as soon as he has
acquitted himself of his
religious duties.

Many of the Egyptians take nothing before noon but the cup
of coffee and the
pipe: others take a light meal at an early hour.
The meal of breakfast
(“el-fatoor”) generally consists of bread,
with eggs,
butter, cheese, clouted cream, or curdled milk, etc.; or
of a
“fateereh,” which is a kind of pastry, saturated with
butter,
made very thin, and folded over and over like a napkin: it is
eaten alone, or with a little honey poured over it, or sugar. A
very common
dish for breakfast is “fool mudemmes,” or beans,
similar to our horse-beans, slowly boiled, during a whole night, in
an
earthen vessel, buried, all but the neck, in the hot ashes of an
oven or a
bath, and having the mouth closely stopped: they are
eaten with
linseed-oil, or butter, and generally with a little lime-juice:
thus
prepared, they are sold in the morning in the sooks
(or markets) of
Cairo
and other towns. A meal is often made (by
those who cannot afford luxuries)
of bread and a mixture called
“dukkah,” which is
commonly composed of salt and pepper, with
“zaatar”
(or wild marjoram) or mint or cumin-seed, and with one,
or more, or all, of
the following ingredients.: namely, coriander-seed,
cinnamon, sesame, and
“hommus” (or chick-peas): each
mouthful of bread is
dipped in this mixture. The bread is always
made in the form of a round
flat cake, generally about a span in
width, and a finger's breadth in
thickness.
The pipe and the cup of coffee are enjoyed by almost all persons
who can
afford such luxuries, very early in the morning, and often-times
during the
day. There are many men who are scarcely ever
seen without a pipe either in
their hand or carried behind them
by a servant. The smoker keeps his
tobacco for daily use in
a purse or bag made of shawl-stuff, or silk, or
velvet, which is often
accompanied with a small pouch containing a flint
and steel, and
some agaric tinder, and is usually crammed into his bosom.
The pipe (which is called by many names, as “shibuk,”
“'ood,”
etc.) is generally between four and five feet
long; some pipes are
shorter, and some are of greater length. The most
common kind
used in Egypt is made of a kind of wood called
“garmash'ak.”
1
The greater part of the stick (from the mouth-piece to about
three-quarters
of its length) is covered with silk, which is confined
at
each extremity by gold thread, often intertwined with coloured
silks, or by a tube of gilt silver; and at the lower extremity of the
covering is a tassel of silk. The covering was originally designed
to be
moistened with water, in order to cool the pipe, and, consequently,

the smoke, by evaporation; but this
is only done when
the pipe is old, or not handsome. Cherry-stick pipes,
which are

PIPES.
never covered, are also used by many persons, particularly in the
winter. In summer the smoke is not so cool from the cherry-stick
pipe as
from the kind before mentioned. The bowl is of baked

earth, coloured red or brown.
1 The mouth-piece is
composed of
two or more pieces of opaque, light-coloured amber,
interjoined
by ornaments of enamelled gold, agate, jasper, carnelion, or
some
other precious substance. It is the most costly part of the pipe;
the price of one of the kind most generally used by persons of
the middle
order is from about one to three pounds sterling. A
wooden tube passes
through it. This is often changed, as it soon
becomes foul from the oil of
the tobacco. The pipe also requires
to be cleaned very often, which is done
with tow, by means of
a long wire. Many poor men in
Cairo gain their
livelihood by
going about to clean pipes.
1 To preserve the matting or carpet from injury,
a small brass tray is often
placed beneath the bowl; and a small tray
of wood is made use of to receive the ashes of the tobacco.
The tobacco smoked by persons of the higher orders, and some
others, in
Egypt, is of a very mild and delicious flavour. It is
mostly from the
neighbourhood of El-Ládikeeyeh, in
Syria. The
best kind is the
“mountain tobacco,” grown on the hills about
that
town. A stronger kind, which takes its name from the town
of Soor,
sometimes mixed with the former, is used by most persons
of the middle
orders. In smoking, the people of Egypt and of
other countries of the East
draw in their breath freely, so that
much of the smoke descends into the
lungs; and the terms which
they use to express “smoking
tobacco” signify “
drinking
smoke,”
or “
drinking
tobacco,” for the same word signifies both
“smoke”
and “tobacco.” Few of
them spit while smoking; I have very
seldom seen any do so.
Some of the Egyptians use the Persian pipe, in which the
smoke passes
through water. The pipe of this kind most commonly
used by persons of the
higher classes is called “nárgeeleh,”
because the vessel that contains the water is a cocoa-nut, of which
“nárgeeleh” is an Arabic name. Another kind,
which has a glass
vase, is called “sheesheh.”
2 Each has a very long
flexible tube.
A particular kind of tobacco, called
“tumbák,” from Persia, is
used in the
water-pipe” it is first washed several times, and put
into the
pipe-bowl while damp, and two or three pieces of live
charcoal are placed
on the top. Its flavour is mild, and very
agreeable; but the strong
inhalation necessary in this mode of
smoking is injurious to persons of
delicate lungs.
3 In
using the
2 A Persian word, signifying
“glass.”
3 It is, however, often recommended in the case
of a cough. One of my
friends, the most celebrated of the poets of
Cairo, who is much troubled by
asthma, uses the nárgeeleh
almost incessantly from morning till night.

Persian pipe, the person as freely
draws the smoke into his lungs
as he would inhale pure air. The great
prevalence of liver-complaints
in Arabia is attributed to the general use
of the nárgeeleh;
and many persons in Egypt suffer severely from
the same
cause. A kind of pipe commonly called
“gózeh,” which is
similar to the
nárgeeleh, excepting that it has a short cane tube,
instead of
the snake (or flexible one), and no stand, is used by
men of the lowest
class, for smoking both the tumbák and the
intoxicating
“hasheesh,” or hemp.
The coffee (“kahweh”
1) is made very strong, and without
sugar or milk.
The coffee-cup (which is called “fingán”) is
small,
generally holding not quite an ounce and a half of liquid. It
is
of porcelain, or Dutch ware, and, being without a handle, is placed

COFFEE SERVICE.
within another cup (called “zarf”), of silver or
brass, according
to the circumstances of the owner, and, both in shape and
size,
nearly resembling our egg-cup.
2 In preparing the coffee, the
water is first made
to boil, the coffee (freshly roasted and pounded)
1 This is the name of the beverage; the berries (whether whole or
pounded)
are called “bunn.”
2 In a full service there are ten
fingáns and zarfs of uniform kinds, and often
another
fingán and zarf of a superior kind for the master of the house,
or for
a distinguished guest. In the accompanying sketch, the
coffee-pot (“bekreg,”
or
“bakrag”) and the zarfs and tray are of silver, and
are represented on a
scale of one-eighth of the real size. Below this
set are a similar zarf and fingán,
on a scale of one-fourth,
and a brass zarf, with the fingán placed in it. Some
zarfs
are of plain or gilt silver filigree; and a few opulent persons have them
of
gold. Many Muslims, however, religiously disallow all utensils of
gold and
of silver.

is then put in, and stirred, after
which the pot is again placed on
the fire, once or twice, until the coffee
begins to simmer, when it
is taken off, and its contents are poured out
into the cups while
the surface is yet creamy. The Egyptians are
excessively fond
of pure and strong coffee thus prepared, and very seldom
add
sugar to it (though some do so when they are unwell), and never
milk or cream; but a little cardamom-seed is often added to it.
It is a
common custom, also, to fumigate the cup with the smoke
of mastic; and the
wealthy sometimes impregnate the coffee with
the delicious fragrance of
ambergris. The most general mode of
doing this is to put about a
carat-weight of ambergris in a coffee-pot,
and melt it over a fire; then
make the coffee in another pot,
in the manner before described, and, when
it has settled a little,
pour it into the pot which contains the ambergris.
Some persons
make use of the ambergris, for the same purpose, in a
different
way, sticking a piece of it, of the weight of about two carats,
in
the bottom of the cup, and then pouring in the coffee; a piece
of
the weight above mentioned will serve for two or three weeks.
This mode is
often adopted by persons who like always to have
the coffee which they
themselves drink flavoured with this perfume,
and do not give all their
visitors the same luxury. The coffee-pot
is sometimes brought in a vessel
of silver or brass (called
“'áz'kee”
1), containing burning
charcoal. This vessel is suspended
by three chains. In presenting the
coffee, the servant
holds the foot of the zarf with his thumb and first
finger. In
receiving the fingán and zarf, he makes use of both
hands, placing
the left beneath and the right above at the same instant.
1 Baron Hammer-Purgstall considers this word a
corruption, and writes
“chasseki” in its stead;
“'áz'kee” (for
“'ázikee) is, however, the term used
by the
Egyptians.
In cold weather, a brasier, or chafing-dish (called
“mankal,”
and vulgarly
“mankad”), of tinned copper, full of burning
charcoal,
is placed on the floor, and sometimes perfume is burnt in
it.
The Egyptians take great delight in perfumes,
2 and often fumigate
their
apartments. The substance most commonly used for this
purpose is
frankincense of an inferior quality, called “bakhoor
el-barr.”
Benzoin and aloes-wood are also used for the same
purpose.
2 They sometimes perfume the beard and mustaches
with civet.
If he can conveniently afford to keep a horse, mule, or ass, or
to hire an
ass, the Egyptian is seldom seen walking far beyond
the threshold of his
own house; but very few of the people of
Cairo, or of the other towns,
venture to expose themselves to the

suspicion of possessing superfluous
wealth, and, consequently, to
greater exactions of the government than they
would otherwise
suffer, by keeping horses.
1 The modern saddle of the horse is
generally padded, and covered with cloth or velvet, embroidered,
or
otherwise ornamented; and the head-stall and breast-leather
are adorned
with silk tassels, and coins, or other ornaments, of
silver. Wealthy
merchants, and the great 'ulama, usually ride
mules. The saddle of the mule
is, generally, nearly the same as
that of the ass, of which a sketch is
inserted; when the rider is
one of the 'ulama, it is covered with a
“seggádeh” (or prayer-carpet;
so, also,
sometimes, is the ladies' saddle, from which,
however, the former differs
considerably, as will be shown hereafter.
Asses are most generally used for
riding through the narrow
and crowded streets of
Cairo, and there are many
for hire; their
usual pace is an easy amble. Egypt has long been famed for its

ÁZ'KEE AND MANKALS.2
excellent asses, which are, in general, larger than those of our
country, and very superior to the latter in every respect. The
usual price
of one of a good breed and well trained is about three
or four pounds
sterling. The ass is furnished with a stuffed saddle,
the forepart of which
is covered with red leather, and the seat,
most commonly, with a kind of
soft woollen lace, similar to our
coach-lace, of red, yellow, and other
colours. The stirrup-leathers
1 Whether walking or riding, a person of the
higher classes is usually
attended by a servant bearing his pipe.
2 One of the latter (that to the right) is an
earthen vessel. Each of the
above utensils is represented on a scale of
about one-eighth of the real size.

are, in every case, very short. The
horseman is preceded by
a servant, or by two servants, to clear the way;
and, for the same
purpose, a servant generally runs beside or behind the
ass, or
sometimes before, calling out to the passengers to move out of
the way to the right or left, or to take care of their backs, faces,
sides,
feet, or heels.
1 The
rider, however, must be vigilant, and
not trust merely to his servant, or
he may be thrown down by the
wide load of a camel, which accident, indeed,
is sometimes unavoidable
in the more narrow and crowded streets. His pipe
is
generally carried by the servant, and filled and lighted if he
dismount
at a house or shop.
1 “Yemeenak!
shimálak!” (to thy right! to thy left!),
“dahrak!” (thy
back!),
“wishshak!” (thy face!),
“gembak!” (thy side!), “riglak!”
(thy
foot!), “kaabak!” (thy heel!), and, to a
Turk, “sákin!” (take care!), are
the
most common cries. The following appellations are also often added:
“yá efendee!” (to a Turk),
“yá sheykh!” (to an old or a middle-aged
Muslim
native), “yá sabee!” (to a
young man), “yá weled!” or
“yá ibnee!”
(to a boy),
“yá shereef!” (to a green turbaned
descendant of the Prophet),
“yá
m'allim!” (to a native Christian, or a Jew),
“yá khawágeh!” (to a
Frank), “yá sitt!” (to a lady, or a female
of the middle order), and “yá
bint!”
that is “daughter,” or “girl”
(to a poor female). A woman of the
lower class, however old she be, the
servant must call “girl,” or
“daughter,”
or probably she will not move an inch
out of the way. A little girl, or young
woman, is often called
“'arooseh,” or “bride;” and
“hággeh,” or “female
pilgrim,” is an appellation often given to women in the
streets.
If he have no regular business to employ him, the Egyptian
spends the
greater part of the day in riding, paying visits, or making
purchases; or
in smoking and sipping coffee and chatting with
a friend at home; or he
passes an hour or more in the morning
enjoying the luxuries of a public
bath. At noon he has again to
say prayers, if he fulfil the duties imposed
on him by his religion;
but, as I have remarked on a former occasion, there
are comparatively
few persons among the Egyptians who do not sometimes
neglect these duties, and there are many who scarcely ever pray.
Directly
after midday (if he has not taken a late breakfast) he
dines, then takes a
pipe and a cup of coffee, and, in hot weather,
usually indulges himself
with a nap. Often he retires to recline
in the hareem, where a wife or
female slave watches over his
repose, or rubs the soles of his feet with
her hands. On such
occasions, and at other times when he wishes to enjoy
privacy,
every person who comes to pay him a visit is told, by the
servant,
that he is in the hareem; and no friend expects him to be
called
thence, unless on very urgent business. From the time of the
afternoon-prayers until sunset (the next time of prayer) he generally

enjoys again his pipe and a cup of
coffee in the society of
some one or more of his friends at home or abroad.
Shortly after
sunset he sups.
I must now describe the meals of dinner (“el-ghada”)
and
supper (“el-'asha”), and the manner and etiquette
of eating.
The same remarks will apply to both these repasts;
excepting
that supper is always the principal meal. It is the general
custom
to cook in the afternoon, and what remain of the supper is
eaten
the next day for dinner, when there are no guests in the house.
The master of a family generally dines and sups with his wife or

WASHING BEFORE OR AFTER A MEAL.
wives and children; but there are many men, particularly of the
higher classes, who are too proud to do this, or too much engaged
in
society to be able to do so, unless on some few occasions;
and there are
men even of the lowest class who scarcely ever
eat with their wives or
children. When a person is paying a
visit to a friend, and the hour of
dinner or supper arrives, it is
incumbent on the master of the house to
order the meal to be
brought; and the same is generally considered
necessary if the
visitor be a stranger.
Every person, before he sits down to the table, or rather to the

tray, washes his hands,
1 and sometimes his
mouth also, with soap
and water; or, at least, has some water poured upon
his right
hand. A servant brings to him a basin and ewer (called
“tisht”
and “ibreek”), of
tinned copper, or brass.
2 The former of these
has a cover pierced with holes, with a raised
receptacle for the
soap in the middle; and the water, being poured upon
the
hands, passes through this cover into the space below; so that
when the basin is brought to a second person, the water with
which the
former one has washed is not seen. A napkin
(“footah”)
is given to each person.
2 In the houses of some of the opulent, these
utensils are of silver. I have
also seen some of gilt copper.
A round tray (called “seeneeyeh,” and
“sáneeyeh”) of tinned
copper, or sometimes
of brass, generally between two and three
feet in diameter, serves as a
table; being placed upon a stool

TISHT AND IBREEK.3
(“kursee”) about fifteen inches high made of
wood, and often
covered with mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, bone, etc.
These
two pieces of furniture compose the “sufrah.”
Round cakes of
bread, such as have been before described, sometimes cut
in
halves across the middle, are placed round the tray, with several
limes, cut in two, to be squeezed over any of the dishes that
may require
the acid; and a spoon of box-wood, or of ebony,
or tortoise-shell, is put
for each person. The bread often serves
3 The width of the former is fourteen inches;
and the height of the latter,
the same

as a plate. Several dishes of
tinned copper, or of china, containing
different kinds of viands,
vegetables, etc., are then placed
upon the tray, according to the common
fashion of the country;
or only one dish is put on at a time, after the
Turkish mode.
The persons who are to partake of the repast sit upon the
floor around the
tray, each with his napkin upon his knees;
or, if the tray be placed near
the edge of a low deewán, which
is often done, some of the
persons may sit on the deewán, and
the others on the floor: but
if the party be numerous, the tray
is placed in the middle of the room, and
they sit round it with
one knee on the ground, and the other (the right)
raised; and,

KURSEE AND SEENEEYEH.
in this manner, as many as twelve persons may sit round a tray
three feet wide. Each person bares his right arm to the elbow,
or tucks up
the hanging end of his sleeve. Before he begins to
eat, he say,
“Bi-smi-llah” (In the name of God).
1 This is
generally said in a low,
but audible voice; and by the master
of the house first. It is considered
both as a grace and as an
invitation to any person to partake of the meal;
and when any
one is addressed with “Bi-smi-llah,” or
“Tafaddal” (which latter
signifies, in this case,
“Do me the favour to partake of the
1 Or
“Bi-smi-lláhi-r-rahmáni-r-raheem”
(In the name of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful).

repast”), he must reply,
if he do not accept the invitation,
“Heneeän” (or “May it be productive
of enjoyment,” or
“benefit”), or use some
similar expression: else it will be feared
that an evil eye has been cast
upon the food; and they say that,
“in the food that is
coveted” (or upon which an envious eye
has fallen),
“there is no blessing.” But the manner in which
the
Egyptian often presses a stranger to eat with him, shows
that feelings of
hospitality most forcibly dictate the “Bi-smi-llah.”

A PARTY AT DINNER OR SUPPER.1
The master of the house first begins to eat; the guests or others
immediately follow his example. Neither knives nor forks are
used: the
thumb and two fingers of the right hand serve instead
of those instruments;
but the spoons are used for soup or rice,
or other things that cannot be
easily taken without; and both
hands may be used in particular cases, as
will be presently
1 One of the servants is holding a water-bottle:
the other, a fly-whisk,
made of palm leaves.

explained. When there are several
dishes upon the tray, each
person takes of any that he likes, or of every
one in succession:
when only one dish is placed upon the tray at a time,
each takes
from it a few mouthfuls, and it is quickly removed, to give
place
to another.
1 To pick out a delicate morsel, and hand it to a
friend, is
esteemed polite. The manner of eating with the
fingers, as practised in
Egypt and other Eastern countries, is more
delicate than may be imagined by
Europeans who have not witnessed
it, nor heard it correctly described. Each
person breaks
off a small piece of bread, dips it in the dish, and then
conveys it
to his mouth, together with a small portion of the meat or
other
contents of the dish.
2 The piece of bread is generally doubled
together, so as to enclose the morsel of meat, etc.; and only the
thumb and
first and second fingers are commonly used. When
a person takes a piece of
meat too large for a single mouthful, he
usually places it upon his bread.
1 Our Saviour and His disciples thus ate from
one dish. See Matt. xxvi.
23.
2 Or he merely sops his morsel of bread in the
dish. See Ruth ii. 14; and
John xiii. 26.
The food is dressed in such a manner that it may be easily
eaten in the mode
above-described. It generally consist, for
the most part, of
“yakhnee,” or stewed meat, with chopped
onions, or
with a quantity of “bámiyehs,”
3 or other
vegetables;
“káwurmeh,” or a richer stew,
with onions; “warak mahshee,”
or vine-leaves, or bits
of lettuce-leaf or cabbage-leaf, with a
mixture of rice and minced meat
(delicately seasoned with salt,
pepper, and onions, and often with garlic,
parsley, etc.) wrapped
up in them, and boiled; cucumbers
(“khiyár”), or black, white, or
red
“bádingáns,”
4 or a kind of gourd
(called “kara kooseh”) of
the size and shape of a
small cucumber, which are all “mahshee,”
or stuffed,
with the same composition as the leaves above-mentioned;
and
“kebáb,” or small morsels of mutton or
lamb,
roasted on skewers. Many dishes consist wholly, or for the most
part, of vegetables; such as cabbage, purslain, spinach, beans,
lupins,
chick peas, gourd cut into small pieces, colocasia, lentils,
3 The bámiyeh is the esculent
“hibiscus:” the part which is eaten is a
polygonal pod, generally between one and three inches in length, and of
the
thickness of a small finger: it is full of seeds and nutritive
mucilage, and has
a very pleasant flavour. A little lime-juice is
usually dropped on the plate
of bámiyehs.
4 The black and white
bádingán are the fruits of two kinds of
egg-plant:
the red is the tomato.

etc. Fish, dressed with oil, is
also a common dish. Most of
the meats are cooked with clarified butter, on
account of the
deficiency of fat; and are made very rich: the butter, in
the
hot season, is perfectly liquid. When a fowl is placed whole on
the tray, both hands are generally required to separate the joints;
or two
persons, each using the right hand alone, perform this
operation together:
but some will do it very cleverly without
assistance, and with a single
hand. Many of the Arabs will not
allow the left hand to touch food in any
case,
1 excepting
when
the right is maimed. A boned fowl, stuffed with raisins,
pistachio-nuts,
crumbled bread, and parsley, is not an uncommon dish;
and even a whole lamb, stuffed with pistachio-nuts, etc., is sometimes
served up; but the meat is easily separated with one
hand. Sweets are often
mixed with stewed meat, etc.; as, for
instance,
“'annáb” (or jujubes), peaches, apricots, etc.,
and
sugar, with yakhnee. Various kinds of sweets are also served up,
and often in no particular order with respect to other meats.
A favourite
sweet dish is “kunáfeh,” which is made of
wheat-flour,
and resembles vermicelli, but is finer; it is fried with
a
little clarified butter, and sweetened with sugar or honey. A
dish
of water-melon (“batteeikh”), if in season, generally
forms
part of the meal. This is cut up about a quarter of an hour
before, and left to cool in the external air, or in a current of
air, by
the evaporation of the juice on the surfaces of the slices;
but it is
always watched during this time, lest a serpent should
come to it, and
poison it by its breath or bite; for this reptile
is said to be extremely
fond of the water-melon, and to smell it
at a great distance. Water-melons
are very abundant in Egypt,
and mostly very delicious and wholesome. A dish
of boiled
rice (called “ruzz mufelfel,” the
“piláv” of the Turks), mixed
with a little
butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper, is generally
that from which the
last morsels are taken; but, in the houses of
the wealthy, this is often
followed by a bowl of “khusháf,”
2 a
sweet drink,
commonly consisting of water with raisins boiled
in it, and then sugar:
when cool, a little rose-water is dropped
into it.
3 The water-melon frequently supplies the
place of this.
4
1 Because used for unclean purposes.
2 So called from the Persian
“khósh áb,” or “sweet
water.”
3 It is drunk with ladles of tortoise-shell or
cocoa-nut.
4 The principal and best fruits of Egypt are
dates, grapes, oranges and
citrons of various kinds, common figs,
sycamore-figs, prickly pears, pomegranates,
bananas, and a great
variety of melons. From this enumeration,
it appears that there are not
many good fruits in this country.
The Egyptians eat very moderately, though quickly. Each
person, as soon as
he has finished, says, “El-hamdu li-lláh”
(Praise be to God),
1
and gets up, without waiting till the others
have done:
2 he then washes his
hands and mouth with soap and
water; the basin and ewer being held by a
servant, as before.
1Or, “El-hamdu li-ll´hi
rabbi-l-ἂlammeen” (Praise be to God, the Lord of all
creatures).
2It is deemed highly improper to rise during a
meal, even from respect to a
superior who may approach. It has been
mentioned before, that the Prophet
forbade his followers to rise while
eating, or when about to eat, even if the time
of prayer
arrived.
The only beverage at meals is water of the Nile, or, sometimes,
at the
tables of the rich, sherbet, which will presently be described.
The Arabs
drink little or no water
during a meal, but
generally
take a large draught immediately
after.
The water of the Nile is
remarkably good; but that of all the wells in
Cairo and in other
parts of Egypt is slightly brackish. In general, water
is drunk
either from an earthen bottle or from a brass cup.
3 The
water-bottles
are of two kinds; one called
“dórak,” and the other

WATER-BOTTLES.
“kulleh:” the former has a narrow, and the
latter a wide, mouth.
They are made of a greyish, porous earth, which cools
the water
deliciously, by evaporation; and they are, therefore,
generally
placed in a current of air. The interior is often blackened
with
the smoke of some resinous wood, and then perfumed with the
smoke
of “kafal”
4 wood and mastic; the latter used last. A
small
earthen vessel (called “mibkhar'ah”) is employed in
performing
3The ancient Egyptians used drinking-cups of
brass. (Herodotus, lib. ii.
cap. 37.)
4“Amyris kafal” of
Forskal. An Arabian tree.

these operations, to contain the
burning charcoal, which
is required to ignite the wood, and the mastic; and
the water-bottle
is held inverted over it. A strip of rag is tied round
the
neck of the dórak, at the distance of about an inch from
the
mouth, to prevent the smoke-black from extending too far upon
the
exterior of the bottle. Many persons also put a little orange-flower-water
into the bottles. This gives a very agreeable flavour
to their contents.
The bottles have stoppers of silver, brass, tin,
wood, or palm-leaves; and
are generally placed in a tray of tinned
copper, which receives the water
that exudes from them. In cold
weather, china bottles are used in many
houses instead of those
above-described, which then render the water too
cold.
1 The
two most common forms of drinking-cups are here represented.
Some of them
have texts of the Kur-án, etc., engraved in the interior,
or the
names of “the Seven Sleepers”: but inscriptions of
the former kind I have seldom seen. Every person, before and
after
drinking, repeats the same ejaculations as before and after
eating; and
this he does each time that he drinks during a meal:
each friend present
then says to him, “May it be productive of
enjoyment,” or “benefit”; to which the reply
is, “God cause thee
to have enjoyment.”
2
1 Baron Hammer-Purgstall has remarked, that two
other vessels should have
been mentioned here (in the first edition of
this work), more especially because
their names have been adopted in
European languages: they are the “garrah”
or
“jarrah,” a water-jar or pitcher, and the
“demigán” or
“demiján,” a large
bottle,
“la dame-jeanne.”
2 “Allah yehenneek” (for
“yuhenneek”).
Though we read, in some of the delightful tales of “The Thousand
and One Nights,” of removing “the table of
viands” and
bringing “the table of wine,”
this prohibited beverage is not
often introduced in general society, either
during or after the
meal, or at other times, by the Muslims of Egypt in the
present
day. Many of them, however, habitually indulge in drinking
wine with select parties of their acquaintance. The servants of a
man who
is addicted to this habit know such of his friends as may
be admitted, if
they happen to call when he is engaged in this
unlawful pleasure; and to
all others they say that he is not at
home, or that he is in the hareem.
Drinking wine is indulged in
by such persons before and after supper, and
during that meal;
but it is most approved
before
supper, as they say that it quickens
the appetite. The “table of
wine” is usually thus prepared, according
to a penitent Muslim
wine-bibber, who is one of my
friends (I cannot speak on this subject from
my own experience;

for, as I never drink wine, I have
never been invited to join a Muslim
wine-party):—a round
japanned tray, or a glass dish, is placed
on the stool before-mentioned: on
this are generally arranged two
cut-glass jugs, one containing wine,
1 and the other,
rosoglio; and
sometimes two or more bottles besides: several small glasses
are
placed with these; and glass saucers of dried and fresh fruits,
and,
perhaps, pickles: lastly, two candles, and often a bunch of
flowers
stuck in a candlestick, are put upon the tray.
1 “Nebeed” (more properly,
“nebeedh”), or
“mudám.”
The Egyptians have various kinds of sherbets, or sweet drinks.
The most
common kind
2 is merely
sugar and water, but very
sweet; lemonade
3 is another: a third kind, the most
esteemed,
is prepared from a hard conserve of violets, made by
pounding
violet-flowers, and then boiling them with sugar: this
violet-sherbet
is of a green colour: a fourth kind is prepared from
mulberries:
a fifth, from sorrel. There is also a kind of sherbet sold

SHERBET-CUPS.
in the streets,
4 which is made with raisins, as its name implies
another kind,
which is a strong infusion of liquorice-root, and called
by the name of
that root; and a third kind, which is prepared
from the fruit of the locust
tree, and called, in like manner, by
the name of the fruit. The sherbet is
served in coloured glass
cups, generally called
“kullehs,” containing about three-quarters
of a pint;
some of which (the more common kind) are ornamented
with gilt flowers, etc.
The sherbet-cups are placed on a round
tray, and covered with a round piece
of embroidered silk, or cloth
of gold. On the right arm of the person who
presents the sherbet
is hung a large oblong napkin with a wide embroidered
border of
gold and coloured silks at each end. This is ostensibly offered
2 Called simply
“sharbát,” or
“sharbát sukkar,” or only
“sukkar.”
3
“Leymoonáteh,” or
“sharáb el-leymoon.”
4 Called “zebeeb,” This
name is also given to an intoxicating conserve.

for the purpose of wiping the lips
after drinking the sherbet; but
it is really not so much for use as for
display: the lips are seldom
or scarcely touched with it.
The interval between supper and the “'eshë,” or
time of the
night-prayers, is generally passed in smoking a pipe, and
sipping
a cup of coffee. The enjoyment of the pipe may be interrupted
by prayer, but is continued afterwards; and sometimes draughts
or chess, or
some other game, or at least conversation, contributes
to make the time
glide away more agreeably. The members
of an Egyptian family in easy
circumstances may pass their
time very pleasantly; but they do so in a
quiet way. The men often
pay evening visits to their friends, at, or after,
supper-time. They
commonly use, on these and similar occasions, a folding
lantern
(“fánoos”), composed of waxed
cloth strained over rings of wire,
and a top and bottom of tinned copper.
This kind of lantern is
here represented, together with the common lamp
(“kandeel”),
and its usual receptacle of wood, which
serves to protect the
flame from the wind. The lamp is a small vessel of
glass, having
a little tube in the bottom, in which is stuck a wick formed
of
cotton twisted round a piece of straw. Some water is poured in
first, and then the oil. A lamp of this kind is often hung over
the
entrance of a house. By night, the interiors of the houses
present a more
dull appearance than in the day: the light of one
or two candles (placed on
the floor or on a stool, and sometimes
surrounded by a large glass shade,
or enclosed in a glass lantern,
on account of the windows being merely of
lattice-work) is generally
thought sufficient for a large and lofty saloon.
Few of the
Egyptians sit up later, in summer, than three or four
o'clock,
which is three or four hours after sunset; for their reckoning
of
time is from sunset at every season of the year: in winter they
often sit up five or six hours.
Thus the day is usually spent by men of moderate wealth who
have no regular
business to attend to, or none that requires their
own active
superintendence. But it is the habit of the
tradesman
to repair, soon after breakfast, to his shop or warehouse, and to
remain there until near sunset.
1 He has leisure to smoke as
much as he likes; and
his customers often smoke with him. To
some of these he offers his own pipe
(unless they have theirs with
them), and a cup of coffee, which is obtained
from the nearest
coffee-shop. A great portion of the day he sometimes
passes in
1 A description of the shops, and a further
account of the tradesmen of Cairo,
will be given in another chapter, on
Industry.

agreeable chat with customers, or
with the tradesmen of the next
or opposite shops. He generally says his
prayers without moving
from the shop. Shortly after the noon-prayers, or
sometimes
earlier or later, he eats a light meal, such as a plate of
kebáb and
a cake of bread (which a boy or maid daily brings from
his house,
or procures in the market), or some bread and cheese or
pickles,
etc., which are carried about the streets for sale; and if a
customer
be present, he is always invited, and often pressed, to partake
of
this meal. A large earthen bottle of water is kept in the shop,
and
replenished, whenever necessary, by a passing “sakka,”
or
water-carrier. In the evening, the tradesman returns to his house,
eats his supper, and, soon after, retires to bed.
It is the general custom in Egypt for the husband and wife
to sleep in the
same bed, excepting among the wealthy classes,
who mostly prefer separate
beds. The bed is usually thus prepared
in the houses of persons of moderate
wealth: a mattress,
stuffed with cotton, about six feet long, and three or
four feet in
width, is placed upon a low frame; a pillow is placed for he
head,
and a sheet spread over this and the mattress: the only covering
in summer is generally a thin blanket: and in winter a thick quilt,
stuffed
with cotton. If there be no frame, the mattress is placed
upon the floor;
or two mattresses are laid one upon the other,
with the sheet, pillow,
etc.; and often, a cushion of the deewán is
placed on each side.
A musquito-curtain
1 is
suspended over the
bed by means of four strings, which are attached to
nails in the
wall. The dress is seldom changed on going to bed; and in
winter, many people sleep with all their ordinary clothes on,
excepting the
gibbeh, or cloth coat; but in summer, they sleep
almost, or entirely,
unclad. In winter, the bed is prepared in a
small closet (called
“khazneh”): in summer, in a large room.
All the
bed-clothes are rolled up, in the day-time, and placed on
one side, or in
the closet above-mentioned. During the hottest
weather, many people sleep
upon the house-top, or in a “fes-hah,”
(or
“fesahah”), which is an uncovered apartment; but
ophthalmia
and other diseases often result from their thus exposing
themselves
to the external air at night. The most common kind of
frame
for the bed is made of palm-sticks; but this harbours bugs,
which are very
abundant in Egypt in the summer, as fleas are
in the winter. These and
other plagues to which the people of
Egypt are exposed by night and day
have been before mentioned.
2
1
“Námooseeyeh.” It is composed of muslin, or
linen of an open texture,
or crape, and forms a close canopy.
2 In the Introduction to this work.

With regard to the most disgusting
of them, the lice, it may here
be added, that, though they are not always
to be avoided even by
the most scrupulous cleanliness, a person who changes
his linen
after two or three days' wear is very seldom annoyed by
these
vermin; and when he is, they are easily removed, not attaching
themselves to the skin; they are generally found in the linen. A
house may
be kept almost clear of fleas by frequent washing and
sweeping; and the
flies may be kept out by placing nets at the
doors and windows; but it is
impossible to purify an Egyptian
house from bugs, if it contain much
wood-work, which is generally
the case.
The male servants lead a very easy life, with the exception of
the
“sáïs,” or groom, who whenever his
master takes a ride, runs
before or beside him; and this he will do in the
hottest weather
for hours together, without appearing fatigued. Almost
every
wealthy person in
Cairo has a
“bowwáb,” or door-keeper, always
at the
door of his house, and several other male servants. Most
of these are
natives of Egypt; but many Nubians are also employed
as servants in
Cairo
and other Egyptian towns. The
latter are mostly bowwábs, and are
generally esteemed more honest
than the Egyptian servants; but I am
inclined to think, from the
opinion of several of my friends, and from my
own experience,
that they have acquired this reputation only by superior
cunning,
The wages of the male servants are very small, usually from
one
to two dollars (or from four to eight shillings) per month: but
they receive many presents.
1 On the “'eed” (or festival) after
Ramadán, the master generally gives, to each of his servants,
part
or the whole of a new suit of clothes, consisting of an
“'eree” (a
blue shirt, which is their outer dress), a
“tarboosh,” and a turban.
Other articles of dress
which they require during the year (excepting,
sometimes, shoes) the
servants are obliged to provide for
themselves. Besides what their master
gives them, they also
receive small presents of money from his visitors,
and from the
tradespeople with whom he deals; particularly whenever he has
1 “The habit of irregular
remuneration, in lieu of fixed, invariable, and
actionable wages, produces a difference of mental
habits, as regards servants
and masters, that I am sure is not to be
understand through description; and
yet every day you see Europeans,
those men who affect such comprehensive
views and such powers of logic,
reviling the habit of giving presents, not perceiving
that this
practices leads to the preservation of those interesting domestic
relations which I conceive to be the greatest lesson, political and moral,
that
is presented to us by the Eastern
world.”—Urquhart's Spirit of the East, vol.
ii.
p. 402.

made any considerable purchase.
They sleep in the clothes
which they wear during the day, each upon a small
mat; and in
winter they cover themselves with a cloak
1 or blanket. In
some
respects, they are often familiar in their manners to their
master,
even laughing and joking with him: in others, they are very
submissive:
paying him the utmost honour, and bearing corporal
chastisement from his hand with child-like patience.
1 See Exodus, xxii. 26, 27.
The male black slave is treated with more consideration than
the free
servant; and leads a life well suited to his lazy disposition.
If
discontented with his situation, he can legally compel
his master to sell
him. Many of the slaves in Egypt wear the
Turkish military dress. They are
generally the greatest fanatics
in the East; and more accustomed than any
other class to insult
the Christians and every people who are not of the
faith which
they have themselves adopted, without knowing more of its
doctrines than Arab children who have been but a week at school.
Of the
female slaves, some account will be given in the next
chapter.
An acquaintance with the modern inhabitants of Egypt leads us
often to
compare their domestic habits with those of Europeans
in the middle ages;
and, perhaps, in this comparison, the points
of resemblance which we
observe, with regard to the men, are
more striking than the contrasts; but
the reverse will be found to
be the case when we consider the state of the
females.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER VI.
DOMESTIC LIFE—continued.
QUITTING the lower apartments, where we have been long detained,
I must
enter upon a more presumptuous office than I have yet
undertaken, which is
that of a guide to the “Hareem:”
2 but
first I must give some account of
marriage, and the marriage-ceremonies.
2 The term “hareem”
(which, as before mentioned, is applied both to the
females of a family
and to the apartments which they occupy) signifies prohibited, sacred, etc. The Turks, and many of the Arabs, use the
synonymous
Arabic term “haram,” which the former
pronounce “harem.”
To abstain from marrying when a man has attained a sufficient

age, and when there is no just
impediment, is esteemed, by the
Egyptians, improper, and even disreputable.
For being myself
guilty of this fault (to use no harsher term), I have
suffered much
inconvenience and discomfort during my stay in this country,
and
endured many reproaches. During my former visit to Egypt, having
occasion to remove from a house which I had occupied for some
months in a
great thoroughfare-street in
Cairo, I engaged another
house, in a
neighbouring quarter: the lease was written, and some
money paid in
advance; but a day or two after, the agent of the
owner came to inform me
that the inhabitants of the quarter, who
were mostly
“shereefs” (or descendants of the Prophet), objected
to my living among them, because I was not married. He added,
however, that
they would gladly admit me if I would even purchase
a female slave, which
would exempt me from the opprobrium
cast upon me by the want of a wife. I
replied, that, being merely
a sojourner in Egypt, I did not like to take
either a wife or female
slave, whom I must soon abandon: the money that I
had paid was,
therefore, returned to me. In another quarter, I was less
unfortunate;
such heavy objections on account of my being unmarried
were not raised: I was only required to promise that no persons
wearing
hats should come into the quarter to visit me; yet, after
I had established
myself in my new residence, the sheykh (or
chief) of the quarter often
endeavoured to persuade me to
marry. All my arguments against doing so he
deemed of no
weight. “You tell me,” said he,
“that in a year or two you mean
to leave this country: now,
there is a young widow, who, I am
told, is handsome, living within a few
doors of you, who will be
glad to become your wife, even with the express
understanding
that you shall divorce her when you quit this place; thought,
of
course, you may do so before, if she should not please
you.”
This young damsel had several times contrived to let me
catch
a glimpse of a pretty face, as I passed the house in which she
and her parents lived. What answer could I return? I replied,
that I had
actually, by accident, seen her face, and that she was
the last woman I
should wish to marry, under such circumstances:
for I was sure that I could
never make up my mind to part with
her. But I found it rather difficult to
silence my officious friend.
—It has been mentioned before, in
the Introduction, that an unmarried
man, or one who has not a female slave,
is usually obliged
to dwell in a wekáleh, unless he has some
near relation with
whom to reside; but that Franks are now exempted from
this restriction.
The Egyptian females arrive at puberty much earlier than the
natives of
colder climates. Many marry at the age of twelve or
thirteen years; and
some remarkably precocious girls are married
at the age of
ten:
1 but such occurrences are not common. Few
remain unmarried after
sixteen years of age. An Egyptian girl at
the age of thirteen, or even
earlier, may be a mother. The women
of Egypt are generally very prolific;
but females of other countries
residing here are often childless; and the
children of foreigners,
born in Egypt, seldom live to a mature age, even
when the mother
is a native. It was on this account that the emancipated
Memlooks
(or military slaves) usually adopted Memlooks.
1 They are often betrothed two or three or more
years earlier.
It is very common among the Arabs of Egypt and of other
countries, but less
so in
Cairo than in other parts of Egypt, for a
man to marry his first
cousin. In this case, the husband and
wife continue to call each other
“cousin;” because the tie of
blood is indissoluble;
but that of matrimony very precarious. A
union of this kind is generally
lasting, on account of this tie of
blood; and because mutual intercourse
may have formed an
attachment between the parties in tender age; though, if
they
be of the higher or middle classes, the young man is seldom
allowed to see the face of his female cousin, or even to meet and
converse
with her, after she has arrived at or near the age of
puberty, until she
has become his wife.
Marriages in
Cairo are generally conducted, in the case of a
virgin, in the
following manner; but in that of a widow, or a
divorced woman, with little
ceremony. Most commonly, the
mother, or some other near female relation, of
the youth or man
who is desirous of obtaining a wife, describes to him the
personal
and other qualifications of the young woman with whom she is
acquainted, and directs his choice:
2 or he employs a
“khát'beh,”
or
“khátibeh;” a woman whose regular business it
is to assist
men in such cases. Sometimes two or more women of this
profession
are employed. A khát'beh gives her report
confidentially,
describing one girl as being like a gazelle, pretty and
elegant and
young; and another, as not pretty, but rich, and so forth. If
the
man have a mother and other near female relations, two or three
of
these usually go with a khát'beh to pay visits to several
hareems,
to which she has access in her professional character of a
matchmaker;
2 Abraham's sending a messenger to his own
country to seek a wife for his
son Isaac (see Genesis xxiv.) was just
such a measure as most modern Arabs
would adopt under similar
circumstances, if easily practicable.

for she is employed as much by the
women as by the
men. She sometimes also exercises the trade of a
“delláleh” (or
broker) for the sale of
ornaments, clothing, etc., which procures
her admission into almost every
hareem. The women who accompany
her in search of a wife for their relation
are introduced
to the different hareems merely as ordinary visitors; and as
such,
if disappointed, they soon take their leave, though the object
of
their visit is of course understood by the other party: but if they
find among the females of a family (and they are sure to see all
who are
marriageable) a girl or young woman having the necessary
personal
qualifications, they state the motive of their visit, and
ask, if the
proposed match be not at once disapproved of, what
property, ornaments,
etc., the object of their wishes may possess.
If the father of the intended
bride be dead, she may perhaps
possess one or more houses, shops, etc.; and
in almost every
case, a marriageable girl of the middle or higher ranks has
a set
or ornaments of gold and jewels. The women-visitors, having
asked these and other questions, bring their report to the expectant
youth
or man. If satisfied with their report, he gives a present
to the
khát'beh, and sends her again to the family of his
intended
wife, to make known to them his wishes. She generally
gives an exaggerated
description of his personal attractions, wealth,
etc. For instance, she
will say, of a very ordinary young man, of
scarcely any property, and of
whose disposition she knows nothing,
“My daughter, the youth who
wishes to marry you is young,
graceful, elegant, beardless, has plenty of
money, dresses handsomely,
is fond of delicacies, but cannot enjoy his
luxuries alone;
he wants you as his companion; he will give you everything
that
money can procure; he is a stayer-at-home, and will spend his
whole time with you, caressing and fondling you.”
The parents may betroth their daughter to whom they please,
and marry her to
him without her consent, if she be not arrived
at the age of puberty; but
after she has attained that age, she
may choose a husband for herself, and
appoint any man to arrange
and effect her marriage. In the former case,
however, the khát'beh
and the relations of a girl sought in
marriage usually endeavour to
obtain her consent to the proposed union.
Very often, a father
objects to giving a daughter in marriage to a man who
is not of
the same profession or trade as himself; and to marrying a
younger
daughter before an elder.
1 The bridegroom can scarcely ever

obtain even a surreptitious glance
at the features of his bride,
until he finds her in his absolute
possession, unless she belong to
the lower classes of society; in which
case, it is easy enough for
him to see her face.
When a female is about to marry, she should have a
“wekeel”
(or deputy) to settle the compact, and
conclude the contract, for
her, with her proposed husband. If she be under
the age of
puberty, this is absolutely necessary; and in this case, her
father,
if living, or (if he be dead) her nearest adult male relation, or
a
guardian appointed by will, or by the Kádee, performs the
office
of wekeel: but if she be of age, she appoints her own wekeel,
or
may even make the contract herself; though this is seldom done.
After a youth or man has made choice of a female to demand
in marriage, on
the report of his female relations, or that of the
khát'beh,
and, by proxy, made the preliminary arrangements before
described with her
and her relations in the hareem, he repairs
with two or three of his
friends to her wekeel. Having obtained
the wekeel's consent to the union,
if the intended bride be under
age, he asks what is the amount of the
required “mahr” (or
dowry).
The giving of a dowry is indispensable, as I have mentioned in
a former
chapter. It is generally calculated in
“riyáls,” of ninety
faddahs (now
equivalent to five pence and two-fifths) each. The
riyál is an
imaginary money, not a coin. The usual amount of
the dowry, if the parties
be in possession of a moderately good
income, is about a thousand
riyáls (or twenty-two pounds ten
shillings); or, sometimes, not
more than half that sum. The
wealthy calculate the dowry in purses, of five
hundred piasters
(now, five pounds sterling) each; and fix its amount at
ten purses,
or more. It must be borne in mind that we are considering
the
case of a virgin-bride; the dowry of a widow or a divorced woman
is much less. In settling the amount of the dowry, as in other
pecuniary
transactions, a little haggling frequently takes place: if
a thousand
riyáls be demanded through the wekeel, the party of
the intended
bridegroom will probably make an offer of six hundred:
the former party
then gradually lowering the demand, and
the other increasing the offer,
they at length agree to fix it at eight
hundred. It is generally stipulated
that two-thirds of the dowry
shall be paid immediately before the marriage
contract is made;
and the remaining third held in reserve, to be paid to
the wife in
case of divorcing her against her own consent, or in case of
the
husband's death.

This affair being settled, and confirmed by all persons present
reciting the
opening chapter of the Kur-án (the Fát'hah), an early
day (perhaps the day next following) is appointed for paying the
money, and
performing the ceremony of the marriage-contract,
which is properly called
“'akd ennikáh.”
1 The making this contract
is commonly
called “ketb el-kitáb” (or the writing of
the
writ); but it is very seldom the case that any document is written
to confirm the marriage, unless the bridegroom is about to travel to
another place, and fears that he may have occasion to prove his
marriage
where witnesses of the contract cannot be procured.
Sometimes the
marriage-contract is concluded immediately after
the arrangement respecting
the dowry, but more generally a day or
two after. On the day appointed for
this ceremony, the bridegroom,
again accompanied by two or three of his
friends, goes to the house
of the bride, usually about noon, taking with
him that portion of the
dowry which he has promised to pay on this
occasion. He and
his companions are received by the bride's wekeel; and two
or
more friends of the latter are usually present. It is necessary
that there be two witnesses (and those must be Muslims) to the
marriage-contract, unless in a situation where witnesses cannot be
procured. All persons present recite the Fát'hah; and the
bridegroom
then pays the money. After this, the marriage-contract is
performed. It is very simple. The bridegroom and the bride's
wekeel sit
upon the ground, face to face, with one knee upon the
ground, and grasp
each other's right hand, raising the thumbs,
and pressing them against each
other. A fikee
2 is
generally employed to instruct them what they are to say. Having placed a
handkerchief over their joined hands, he usually prefaces the
words of the
contract with a “khutbeh,” consisting of a few
words
of exhortation and prayer, with quotations from the Kur-án
and
Traditions, on the excellency and advantages of marriage.
He then desires
the bride's wekeel to say, “I betroth [or marry],
to thee, my
daughter [or the female who has appointed me her
wekeel], such a one
[naming the bride], the virgin
3 [or the adult
virgin], for a dowry of such an
amount.” (The words “for a

dowry,” etc., are
sometimes omitted.) The bride's wekeel having
said this, the bridegroom,
prompted in the same manner by the
fikee, says, “I accept from
thee her betrothal [or marriage] to
myself, and take her under my care, and
bind myself to afford
her my protection; and ye who are present bear
witness of this.”
The wekeel addresses the bridegroom in the
same manner a
second and a third time; and each time, the latter replies
as
before. They then generally add, “And blessing be on the
Apostles,
and praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures:
amen:”
after which, all present again repeat the
Fát'hah. It is not always
the same form of
“khutbeh” that is recited on these occasions:
any
form may be used; and it may be repeated by any person:
it is not even
necessary; and is often altogether omitted. The
contract concluded, the
bridegroom sometimes (but seldom unless
he be a person of the lower orders)
kisses the hands of his friends
and others there present; and they are
presented with sherbet,
and generally remain to dinner. Each of them
receives an embroidered
handkerchief, provided by the family of the
bride;
excepting the fikee, who receives a similar handkerchief, with
a
small gold coin tied up in it, from the bridegroom. Before the
persons assembled on this occasion disperse, they settle when the
“leylet ed-dukhleh” is to be: this is the night when the
bride is
brought to the house of the bridegroom, and the latter, for
the
first time, visits her.
1 It is a common belief in Egypt, that, if any
one makes a marriage-contract
in the month of Moharram, the marriage
will be unhappy, and soon dissolved:
wherefore, few persons do so. The
most propitious period is the month of
Showwál.
2 This appellation is commonly given to a
schoolmaster. See a note in page
48?
3 If the bride be not a virgin, a word importing
this is substituted; namely,
“seyyib,” or, more
properly, “theyyib.”
In general, the bridegroom waits for his bride about eight or
ten days after
the conclusion of the contract. Meanwhile, he
sends to her, two or three or
more times, some fruit, sweetmeats,
etc.; and perhaps makes her a present
of a shawl, or some other
article of value. The bride's family are at the
same time occupied
in preparing for her a stock of household furniture (as
deewáns,
matting, carpets, bedding, kitchen-utensils, etc.) and
dress. The
portion of the dowry which has been paid by the bridegroom,
and generally a much larger sum (the additional money, which is
often more
than the dowry itself, being supplied by the bride's
family), is expended
in purchasing the articles of furniture, dress,
and ornaments, for the
bride. These articles, which are called
“gaház,” are the property of the bride; and if
she be divorced,
she takes them away with her. She cannot, therefore, with
truth,
be said to be
purchased.
1 The furniture is sent,
commonly borne
1 Among the peasants, however, the father, or
other lawful guardian of the
bride, receives the dowry, and gives
nothing in return but the girl, and sometimes
a little corn, etc. The
bridegroom, in this case, supplies everything;
even the dress of the
bride.

by a train of camels, to the
bridegroom's house. Often, among
the articles of the gaház is a
chair for the turban or head-dress,
alluded to in a former page. It is of a
large size, but slight make;
the bottom and back generally of cane-work;
sometimes with a
canopy. It is never used to sit upon. The turban, when
placed
upon it, is covered with a kerchief of thick silk stuff,
usually
ornamented with gold thread. There are sometimes sent two of
these chairs; one for the husband and the other for the wife.
The bridegroom should receive his bride on the eve of Friday,
or that of
Monday;
1 but the
former is generally esteemed the
more fortunate period. Let us say, for
instance, that the bride is
to be conducted to him on the eve of Friday.
During two or
three or more preceding nights, the street or quarter in
which the
bridegroom lives is illuminated with chandeliers and lanterns,
or
with lanterns and small lamps, some suspended from cords drawn
across from the bridegroom's and several other houses on each
side to the
houses opposite; and several small silk flags, each of
two colours,
generally red and green, are attached to these or
other cords.
2 An entertainment is
also given on each of these
nights, particularly on the
last night before that on which the
wedding is concluded, at the
bridegroom's house. On these
occasions, it is customary for the persons
invited, and for all intimate
friends, to send presents to his house, a day
or two before
the feast which they purpose or expect to attend; they
generally
send sugar, coffee, rice, wax-candles, or a lamb: the former
articles
are usually placed upon a tray of copper or wood, and covered
with a silk or embroidered kerchief. The guests are entertained
1 These entertainments I do not here
particularly describe, as it is my intention
to devote the whole of a
subsequent chapter to the subject of private
festivities. The
“khatmeh” is the recitation of the whole of the
Kur-án;
and the “zikr,” the repetition
of the name of God, or of the profession of his
unity, etc.; I shall
have occasion to speak of both more fully in another
chapter, on the
periodical public festivals.

on these occasions by musicians and
male or female singers, by
dancing girls, or by the performance of a
“khatmeh” or a
“zikr.”
1
1 Burckhardt has erred in stating that Monday and Thursday are the days on
which the
ceremonies immediately previous to the marriage-night
are performed,
he should have said Sunday and
Thursday. He has also fallen into some other
errors in the account
which he has given of the marriage ceremonies of the
Egyptians, in the
illustrations of his “Arabic Proverbs” (pp.
112–118). To
mention this I feel to be a duty to myself; but
one which I perform with
reluctance, and not without the fear that
Burckhardt's just reputation for
general accuracy may make my reader
think that he is right in these cases,
and that I am wrong. I write
these words in Cairo, with his book before
me, and after sufficient
experience and inquiries.
2 The lantern here represented, which is
constructed of wood, and painted
green, red, white, and blue, is called
“tureiya” (the Arabic name of the
Pleiades), and,
together with the frame above, from which six lamps are suspended, and which
is termed “khátim Suleymán” (or
Solomon's seal), composes
what is called a “heml
kanádeel.”
In the houses of the wealthy, the khát'beh or khat'behs, together
with the “dáyeh” (or midwife) of the family,
the “belláneh
(or female attendant of the bath), and
the nurse of the
bride, are each presented, a day or two after the
conclusion of
the contract, with a piece of gold stuff, a Kashmeer shawl,
or a
piece of striped silk, such as yeleks and shintiyáns are
made of;

LANTERN, ETC., SUSPENDED ON THE OCCASION OF A WEDDING.
and, placing these over the left shoulder, and attaching the
edges
together on the right side, go upon asses, with two or more men
before them beating kettle drums or tabours, to the houses of all
the
friends of the bride, to invite the females to accompany her

to and from the bath, and to
partake of an entertainment given on
that occasion. At every house where
they call, they are treated
with a repast, having sent notice the day
before of their intended
visit. They are called
“mudnát.”
1 I have sometimes seen them
walking,
and without the drums before them; but making up for
the want of these
instruments by shrill, quavering cries of joy
called
“zagháreet.”
2
1 “From the verb ‘adna,'
he brought,” etc.
2 These cries of the women, which are heard on
various occasions of rejoicing
in Egypt and other Eastern countries,
are produced by a sharp utterance
of the voice, accompanied by a quick,
tremulous motion of the tongue.
On the preceding Wednesday (or on the Saturday if the wedding
be to conclude
on the eve of Monday), at about the hour of
noon, or a little later, the
bride goes in state to the bath.
3 The
procession to the bath is called
“Zeffet
el-Hammám.” It is
headed by a
party of musicians with a hautboy, or two, and drums
of different
kinds.
4
Frequently, as I have mentioned in a former
chapter, some person avails
himself of this opportunity to parade
his young son previously to
circumcision; the child, and his
attendants, in this case, follow next
after the musicians, in the
manner already described. Sometimes, at the
head of the bride's
party are two men who carry the utensils and linen used
in the
bath, upon two round trays, each of which is covered with an
embroidered or a plain silk kerchief; also a sakka, who gives
water to any
of the passengers, if asked; and two other persons,
one of whom bears a
“kumkum,” or bottle of plain or gilt silver,
or of
china, containing rose-water, or orange-flower-water, which
he occasionally
sprinkles on the passengers; and the other, a
“mibkhar'ah” (or perfuming-vessel) of silver, with
aloes-wood, or
some other odoriferous substance, burning in it: but it is
seldom
that the procession is thus attended. In general, the first
persons
among the bride's party are several of her married female
relations and friends, walking in pairs; and next, a number of
young
virgins. The former are dressed in the usual manner,
covered with the black
silk habarah: the latter have white silk
habarahs, or shawls. Then follows
the bride, walking under a
canopy of silk, of some gay colour, as pink,
rose-colour, or yellow,
or of two colours composing wide stripes, often
rose-colour and
yellow. It is carried by four men, by means of a pole at
each
3 I have once seen this
“zeffeh,” or procession, and a second which will
be
described hereafter, go forth much later, and return an hour after
sunset.
4 The music is generally of a very rude kind;
and the airs usually played are
those of popular songs; specimens of
which will be found in this work.

BRIDAL PROCESSION (Part I.).


corner, and is open only in front;
and at the top of each of the
four poles is attached an embroidered
handkerchief. The dress
of the bride, during this procession, entirely
conceals her person.
She is generally covered, from head to foot, with a
red Kashmeer
shawl; or with a white or yellow shawl, though rarely. Upon
her
head is placed a small pasteboard cap, or crown. The shawl is
placed over this, and conceals from the view of the public the
richer
articles of her dress, her face, and her jewels, etc., excepting
one or two
“kussahs”
1 (and sometimes other ornaments), generally
of
diamonds and emeralds, attached to that part of the shawl
which covers her
forehead. She is accompanied by two or three
of her female relations within
the canopy; and often, when in hot
weather, a woman, walking backwards
before her, is constantly
employed in fanning her, with a large fan of
black ostrich-feathers,
the lower part of the front of which is usually
ornamented with
a piece of looking-glass. Sometimes one zeffeh, with a
single
canopy, serves for two brides, who walk side by side. The
procession
moves very slowly, and generally pursues a circuitous
route, for the sake of greater display. On leaving the house, it
turns to
the right. It is closed by a second party of musicians,
similar to the
first, or by two or three drummers.
1 For a description of these ornaments, see the
Appendix.
In the bridal processions of the lower orders, which are often
conducted in
the same manner as that above described, the
women of the party frequently
utter, at intervals, those shrill cries
of joy called zagháreet,
which I have before had occasion to mention;
and females of the poorer
classes, when merely spectators
of a zeffeh, often do the same.
The whole bath is sometimes hired for the bride and her party
exclusively.
They pass several hours, or seldom less than two,
occupied in washing,
sporting, and feasting; and frequently
“'A‘l'mehs” (or female singers) are hired to
amuse them in the
bath: they then return in the same order in which they
came.
The expense of the zeffeh falls on the relations of the bride;
but
the feast is supplied by the bridegroom.
Having returned from the bath to the house of her family, the
bride and her
companions sup together. If ‘A‘l'mehs have
contributed
to the festivity in the bath, they also return with the
bride, to renew their concert. Their songs are always on the
subject of
love, and of the joyous event which occasions their
presence. After the
company have been thus entertained, a large
quantity of henna having been
prepared, mixed into a paste, the

bride takes a lump of it in her
hand, and receives contributions
(called “nukoot”)
from her guests: each of them sticks a coin
(usually of gold) in the henna
which she holds upon her hand;
and when the lump is closely stuck with
these coins, she scrapes
it off her hand upon the edge of a basin of water.
Having
collected in this manner from all her guests, some more henna
is
applied to her hands and feet, which are then bound with pieces
of
linen; and in this state they remain until the next morning,
when they are
found to be sufficiently dyed with its deep orange-red
tint. Her guests
make use of the remainder of the dye for
their own hands. This night is
called “Leylet el-Henna,” or
“the Night of
the Henna.”
It is on this night, and sometimes also during the latter half of
the
preceding day, that the bridegroom gives his chief entertainment.
“Mohabbazeen” (or low farce-players) often perform on
this occasion before the house, or, if it be large enough, in the
court.
The other and more common performances by which the
guests are amused have
been before mentioned.
On the following day the bride goes in procession to the house
of the
bridegroom. The procession before described is called
“the
zeffeh of the bath,” to distinguish it from this, which is the
more important, and which is therefore particularly called
“Zeffet
el-‘Arooseh,” or “the
Zeffeh of the Bride.” In some cases, to
diminish the expenses of
the marriage-ceremonies, the bride is
conducted privately to the bath, and
only honoured with a zeffeh
to the bridegroom's house. This procession is
exactly similar to
the former. The bride and her party, after breakfasting
together,
generally set out a little after mid-day. They proceed in
the
same order, and at the same slow pace, as in the zeffeh of the
bath; and, if the house of the bridegroom be near, they follow a
circuitous
route, through several principal streets, for the sake of
display. The
ceremony usually occupies three or more hours.
Sometimes, before bridal processions of this kind, two swordsmen,
clad in
nothing but their drawers, engage each other in a
mock combat; or two
peasants cudgel each other with nebboots,
or long staves. In the procession
of a bride of a wealthy family,
any person who has the art of performing
some extraordinary feat
to amuse the spectators is almost sure of being a
welcome assistant,
and of receiving a handsome present.
1 When the seyyid
1 One of the most common of the feats witnessed
on such an occasion is the
performance of a laborious task by a
water-carrier, termed a “keiyim,” who,
for the
sake of a present, and this empty title, carries a water-skin filled
with
sand and water, of greater weight, and for a longer period, than
any of his
brethren will venture to do; and this he must accomplish
without ever sitting
down, except in a crouching position, to rest. In
the case of a bridal procession
which I lately witnessed, the keiyim
began to carry his burden, a skin of
sand and water weighing about two
hundred pounds, at sunset of the preceding
day; bore it the whole
night, and the ensuing day, before and during the
procession, and
continued to do so till sunset.

BRIDAL PROCESSION (Part II.).


‘Omar, the Nakeeb
el-Ashráf (or chief of the descendants of the
Prophet), who was
the main instrument of advancing Mohammad
‘Alee to the dignity
of Básha of Egypt, married a daughter, about
twenty-seven years
since, there walked before the procession a
young man who had made an
incision in his abdomen, and drawn
out a large portion of his intestines,
which he carried before him
on a silver tray. After the procession he
restored them to their
proper place, and remained in bed many days before
he recovered
from the effects of this foolish and disgusting act. Another
man,
on the same occasion, ran a sword through his arm, before the
crowding spectators, and then bound over the wound, without
withdrawing the
sword, several handkerchiefs, which were soaked
with the blood. These facts
were described to me by an eyewitness.
A spectacle of a more singular and
more disgusting
nature used to be not uncommon on similar occasions, but is
now
very seldom witnessed.
1 Sometimes, also,
“háwees” (or conjurors
and sleight-of-hand
performers) exhibit a variety of tricks on
these occasions. But the most
common of all the performances
here mentioned are the mock fights. Similar
exhibitions are also
sometimes witnessed on the occasion of a
circumcision.
2
1 A correct description of this is given in
Burckhardt's “Arabic Proverbs,”
pp. 115, 116.
2 Grand zeffehs are sometimes accompanied by a
number of cars, each
bearing a group of persons of some manufacture or
trade performing the usual
work of their craft; even such as builders,
white-washers, etc.; including
members of all, or almost all, the arts
and manufactures practised in the
metropolis.
The bride and her party, having arrived at the bridegroom's
house, sit down
to a repast. Her friends, shortly after, take their
departure, leaving with
her only her mother and sister, or other
near female relations, and one or
two other women, usually the
belláneh. The ensuing night is
called “Leylet ed-Dukhleh,” or
“the Night
of the Entrance.”
The bridegroom sits below. Before sunset, he goes to the bath,
and there
changes his clothes; or he merely does the latter at
home, and, after
having supped with a party of his friends, waits
till a little before the
“'eshë” (or time of the night-prayer), or

until the third or fourth hour of
the night, when, according to
general custom, he should repair to some
celebrated mosque, such
as that of the Hasaneyn, and there say his prayers.
If young, he
is generally honoured with a zeffeh on this occasion: he goes
to
the mosque preceded by musicians with drums and one or more
hautboys, and accompanied by a number of friends, and by several
men
bearing “mesh'als.” The mesh'al is a staff with a
cylindrical
frame of iron at the top filled with flaming wood, or having
two,
three, four, or five of these receptacles for fire. The party usually

MESH'ALS.
proceeds to the mosque with a quick pace, and without much
order.
A second group of musicians, with the same instruments,
or with drums only,
closes the procession. The bridegroom is
generally dressed in a
kuftán with red stripes, and a red gibbeh,
with a Kashmeer shawl
of the same colour for his turban; and
walks between two friends similarly
dressed. The prayers are
commonly performed merely as a matter of ceremony;
and it is
frequently the case that the bridegroom does not pray at all,
or
prays without having previously performed the wudoó, like
memlooks

who say their prayers only because
they fear their master.
1
The procession returns from the mosque with more order and
display,
and very slowly; perhaps because it would be considered
unbecoming in the
bridegroom to hasten home to take possession
of his bride. It is headed, as
before, by musicians, and two or
more bearers of mesh'als. These are
generally followed by two
men, bearing, by means of a pole resting
horizontally upon their
shoulders, a hanging frame, to which are attached
about sixty or
more small lamps, in four circles, one above another, the
uppermost
of which circles is made to revolve, being turned round
occasionally by one of the two bearers. These numerous lamps,
and several
mesh'als beside those before mentioned, brilliantly
illumine the streets
through which the procession passes, and
produce a remarkably picturesque
effect. The bridegroom and
his friends and other attendants follow,
advancing in the form of
an oblong ring, all facing the interior of the
ring, and each bearing
in his hand one or more wax candles, and sometimes a
sprig
of henna or some other flower, excepting the bridegroom and the
friend on either side of him. These three form the latter part of
the ring,
which generally consists of twenty or more persons. At
frequent intervals
the party stops for a few minutes; and during
each of these pauses, a boy
or man, one of the persons who compose
the ring, sings a few words of an
epithalamium. The sounds
of the drums, and the shrill notes of the hautboy
(which the bride
hears half an hour or more before the procession arrives
at the
house), cease during these songs. The train is closed, as in
the
former case, by a second group of musicians.
1 Hence this kind of prayer is called
“salah memáleekeeyeh,” or
“the
prayer of memlooks.”
In the manner above described, the bridegroom's zeffeh is most
commonly
conducted; but there is another mode, that is more
respectable, called
“zeffeh sádátee,” which signifies
“the gentlemen's
zeffeh.” In this, the bridegroom is
accompanied by his
friends in the same manner as before related, and
attended and
preceded by men bearing mesh'als, but not by musicians: in
the
place of these are about six or eight men, who, from their being
employed as singers on occasions of this kind, are called
“wilád
el-läyálee,”
or “sons of the nights.” Thus attended, he goes to
the mosque; and while he returns slowly thence to his house, the
singers
above mentioned chant, or rather sing, “muweshshahs”
(or lyric odes) in praise of the Prophet. Having returned to the
house,
these same persons chant portions of the Kur-án, one after

another, for the amusement of the
guests; then, all together, recite
the opening chapter (the
Fát'hah); after which one of them sings
a
“kaseedeh” (or short poem) in praise of the Prophet:
lastly,
all of them again sing muweshshahs. After having thus
performed,
they receive “nukoot” (or contributions of
money) from
the bridegroom and his friends.
Soon after his return from the mosque, the bridegroom leaves
his friends in
a lower apartment, enjoying their pipes and coffee
and sherbet. The bride's
mother and sister, or whatever other
female relations were left with her,
are above; and the bride herself,
and the belláneh, in a
separate apartment.
1
If the bridegroom
be a youth or young man, it is considered proper that
he,
as well as the bride, should exhibit some degree of bashfulness:
one of his friends, therefore, carries him a part of the way up to
the
hareem. On entering the bride's apartment, he gives a present
to the
belláneh, and she retires. The bride has a shawl
thrown over her
head; and the bridegroom must give her a present
of money, which is called
“the price of the uncovering of the
face,” before he
attempts to remove this, which she does not allow
him to do without some
apparent reluctance, if not violent resistance,
in order to show her maiden
modesty. On removing the
covering, he says, “In the name of God,
the Compassionate, the
Merciful;” and then greets her with this
compliment: “The
night be blessed,” or
“—is blessed:” to which she replies, if
timidity do not choke her utterance, “God bless thee.”
The
bridegroom now sees the face of his bride for the first time, and
generally finds her nearly what he has been led to expect. He
remains with
her but a few minutes longer:
2 having satisfied his
curiosity respecting her personal charms,
he calls to the women
(who generally collect at the door, where they wait
in anxious
suspense) to raise their cries of joy, or zagháreet:
and the shrill
sounds acquaint the persons below and in the neighbourhood,
and
often, responded by other women, spread still further the news,
that he has acknowledged himself satisfied with his bride: he
soon
afterwards descends to rejoin his friends, and remains with
them an hour,
or more, before he returns to his wife. It very
1 Sometimes, when the parties are persons of
wealth, the bride is displayed
before the bridegroom in different
dresses, to the number of seven.
2 I beg to refer the reader, if he desire
further details on this subject, to
page 117 of Burckhardt's
“Arabic Proverbs.” His account might have been
more complete; but he seems to have studied to be particularly concise in
this
case.

seldom happens that the husband, if
disappointed in his bride,
immediately disgraces and divorces her; in
general, he retains
her, in this case, a week or more.
Having now described the most usual manner in which the
marriages of
virgin-brides are conducted in
Cairo, I may add a
few words on some of the
ceremonies observed in other cases of
matrimony, both of virgins and of
widows or divorced women.
The daughters of the great, generally having baths in their own
houses,
seldom go to the public bath previously to marriage. A
bride of a wealthy
family, and her female relations and friends, if
there be not a bath in her
house, go to the public bath, which is
hired for them exclusively, and to
the bridegroom's house, without
music or canopy, mounted on asses: the
bride herself generally
wearing a Kashmeer shawl, in the manner of a
habarah.
If the bridegroom or the bride's family have eunuchs, these ride
before the
bride; and sometimes a man runs at the head of the
procession, crying,
“Bless ye the Prophet!” This man, on
entering the
house, throws down upon the threshold some leaves
of the white beet
(“salk”), over which the ladies ride. The
object of
this act is to propitiate fortune. The same man then
exclaims,
“Assistance from God, and a speedy victory!”
1
1 Kur-án, chap. lxi., ver. 13.
Marriages, among the Egyptians, are sometimes conducted
without any pomp or
ceremony, even in the case of virgins, by
mutual consent of the bridegroom
and the bride's family, or the
bride herself; and widows and divorced women
are never honoured
with a zeffeh on marrying again. The mere sentence,
“I
give myself up to thee,” uttered by a female to a
man who
proposes to become her husband (even without the presence of
witnesses, if none can easily be procured), renders her his legal
wife, if
arrived at puberty; and marriages with widows and
divorced women, among the
Muslims of Egypt, and other Arabs,
are sometimes concluded in this simple
manner. The dowry of
such women is generally one quarter or third or half
the amount
of that of a virgin.
In
Cairo, among persons not of the lowest order, though in
very humble life,
the marriage ceremonies are conducted in the
same manner as among the
middle orders. But when the expenses
of such zeffehs as I have described
cannot by any means
be paid, the bride is paraded in a very simple manner,
covered
with a shawl (generally red), and surrounded by a group of her

female relations and friends,
dressed in their best, or in borrowed,
clothes, and enlivened by no other
sounds of joy than their
zagháreet, which they repeat at
frequent intervals.
The general mode of zeffeh among the inhabitants of the
villages is
different from those above described. The bride,
usually covered with a
shawl, is seated on a camel, and so conveyed
to the bridegroom's dwelling.
Sometimes four or five
women or girls sit with her on the same camel, one
on either
side of her, and two or three others behind: the seat being
made
very wide, and usually covered with carpets or other drapery.
She
is followed by a group of women singing. In the evening
of the wedding, and
often during several previous evenings, in a
village, the male and female
friends of the two parties meet at
the bridegroom's house, and pass several
hours of the night in
the open air, amusing themselves with songs and a
rude kind
of dance, accompanied by the sounds of a tambourine or some
kind of drum: both sexes sing; but only the women dance.—I
have
introduced here these few words on the marriage-ceremonies
of the peasantry
to avoid scattering notes on subjects of the same
nature. I now revert to
the customs of the people of
Cairo.
On the morning after the marriage, “khäwals”
1 or
“gházeeyehs”
(dancing men or girls)
perform in the street before the
bridegroom's house, or in the court.
2 On the same morning
also,
if the bridegroom be a young man, the person who carried him
upstairs generally takes him and several friends to an entertainment
in the
country, where they spend the whole day. This
ceremony is called
“el-huroobeh,” or the flight. Sometimes the
bridegroom himself makes the arrangements for it, and pays part
of the
expenses, if they exceed the amount of the contributions
of his friends;
for they give nukoot on this occasion. Musicians
and dancing girls are
often hired to attend the entertainment. If
the bridegroom be a person of
the lower orders, he is conducted
back in procession, preceded by three or
four musicians with
drums and hautboy; his friends and other attendants
carrying
each a nosegay, as in the zeffeh of the preceding night; and
if
their return be after sunset, they are accompanied by men bearing
mesh'als, lamps, etc.; and the friends of the bridegroom
carry lighted wax
candles, besides the nosegays.
3 Subsequent
1 A khäwal is also called
“gháïsh”; plural,
“gheeyásh.”
2 This performance is called the bride's
“sabáheeyeh.”
3 Among the peasants of Upper Egypt, the
relations and acquaintances of
the bridegroom and bride meet together
on the day after the marriage; and
while a number of the men clap their
hands, as an accompaniment to a tambourine
or two, and any other
instruments that can be procured, the bride
dances before them for a
short time. She has a head-veil reaching to her
heels, and a printed
cotton handkerchief completely covering her face, and
wears,
externally, the most remarkable of her bridal garments (mentioned by
Burckhardt, in the place before referred to, and, in some parts of Egypt,
hung
over the door of a peasant's house after marriage). Other women,
similarly
veiled, and dressed in their best, or borrowed, clothes,
continue the dance
about two hours, or more.

festivities occasioned by marriage
will be described in a later
chapter.
The husband, if he can conveniently so arrange, generally
prefers that his
mother should reside with him and his wife; that she
may protect his wife's
honour, and consequently his own also. It
is said that the mother-in-law
is, for this reason, called “hamah.”
1
The women of Egypt are said to be generally prone to criminal
intrigues; and I fear that, in this respect, they are not unjustly
accused.
Sometimes a husband keeps his wife in the house of
her mother, and pays the
daily expenses of both. This ought
to make the mother very careful with
regard to expenditure, and
strict as to her daughter's conduct, lest the
latter should be
divorced; but it is said that, in this case, she often
acts as her
daughter's procuress, and teaches her innumerable tricks, by
which
to gain the upper hand over her husband, and to drain his purse.
The influence of the wife's mother is also scarcely less feared
when she
only enjoys occasional opportunities of seeing her
daughter: hence it is
held more prudent for a man to marry a
female who has neither mother nor
any near relations of her own
sex; and some wives are even prohibited
receiving any female
friends but those who are relations of the husband:
they are very
few, however, upon whom such severe restrictions are imposed.
1 Thus commonly pronounced, for
“hamáh,” a word derived from the
verb
“hama,” “he protected, or
guarded.”
For a person who has become familiar with male Muslim
society in
Cairo,
without marrying, it is not so difficult as might
be imagined by a stranger
to obtain, directly and indirectly,
correct and ample information
respecting the condition and habits
of the women. Many husbands of the
middle classes, and some
of the higher orders, freely talk of the affairs
of the hareem with
one who professes to agree with them in their general
moral
sentiments, if they have not to converse through the medium of
an interpreter.
Though the women have a particular portion of the house

allotted to them, the
wives, in general, are not to be regarded as
prisoners; for they are usually at liberty to go out and pay visits,
as
well as to receive female visitors, almost as often as they
please. The
slaves, indeed, being subservient to the wives, as
well as to their master,
or, if subject to the master only, being
under an authority almost
unlimited, have not that liberty. One
of the chief objects of the master in
appropriating a distinct
suite of apartments to his women, is to prevent
their being seen
by the male domestics and other men without being covered
in
the manner prescribed by their religion. The following words
of the
Kur-án show the necessity under which a Muslim'eh is
placed of
concealing whatever is attractive in her person or attire
from all men,
excepting certain relations and some other persons.
“And speak
unto the believing women, that they restrain their
eyes, and preserve their
modesty, and discover not their ornaments,
except what [necessarily]
appeareth thereof: and let them
throw their veils over their bosoms, and
not show their ornaments,
unless to their husbands, or their fathers, or
their husbands'
fathers, or their sons, or their husbands' sons, or their
brothers,
or their brothers' sons, or their sister's sons, or their women,
or
those [captives] which their right hands shall possess, or unto
such men as attend [them] and have no need [of women], or
unto
children:” “and let them not make a noise with their
feet,
that their ornaments which they hid may [thereby] be
discovered.”
1
The last passage alludes to the practice of knocking
together the
anklets which the Arab women in the time of the
Prophet used to wear, and
which are still worn by many women
in Egypt.
I must here transcribe two notes of eminent commentators on
the
Kur-án, in illustration of the above extract, and inserted in
Sale's translation. This I do, because they would convey an
erroneous idea
of modern customs with regard to the admission,
or non-admission, of
certain persons into the hareem. The first
is on the above words,
“or their women,” which it thus explains:—
“That is, such as are of the Mohammadan religion: it being
reckoned by some unlawful, or, at least, indecent, for a woman
who is a
true believer to uncover herself before one who is an
infidel; because the
latter will hardly refrain from describing her
to the men: but others
suppose all women in general are here
accepted; for, in this particular,
doctors differ.” In Egypt, and,
I believe, in every other Muslim
country, it is not now considered

improper for any woman, whether
independent, or a servant, or a
slave, a Christian, a Jewess, a Muslim'eh,
or a pagan, to enter
a Muslim's hareem.—The second of the notes
above alluded to
is on the words “or those captives,”
and is as follows:—“Slaves
of either sex are included
in this exception, and, as some think,
domestic servants who are not
slaves, as those of a different
nation. It is related that Mohammad once
made a present of a
man-slave to his daughter Fátimeh; and when
he brought him
to her, she had on a garment which was so scanty, that she
was
obliged to leave either her head or her feet uncovered: and that
the Prophet, seeing her in great confusion on that account, told
her she
need be under no concern, for that there was none
present but her father
and her slave.” Among the Arabs of the
Desert, this may still be
the case; but in Egypt I have never
heard of an instance of an adult male
slave being allowed to see
the hareem of a respectable man, whether he
belonged to that
hareem or not, and am assured that it is never permitted.
Perhaps
the reason why the man-slave of a woman is allowed this
privilege by the Kur-án is, because she cannot become his lawful
wife as long as he continues her slave: but this is a poor reason
for
granting him access to the hareem, in such a state of society.
It is
remarkable that, in the verse of the Kur-án above quoted,
uncles
are not mentioned as privileged to see their nieces unveiled:
some think
that they are not admissible, and for this
reason, lest they should
describe the persons of their nieces to
their sons; for it is regarded as
highly improper for a man to
describe the features or person of a female
(as to say, that she
has large eyes, a straight nose, small mouth, etc.) to
one of his
own sex, by whom it is unlawful for her to be seen, though it
is
not considered indecorous to describe her in general terms, as,
for
instance, to say, “She is a sweet girl, and set off with kohl
and henna.”
It may be mentioned here, as a general rule, that a man is
allowed to see
unveiled only his own wives and female slaves,
and those females whom he is
prohibited by law from marrying,
on account of their being within certain
degrees of consanguinity
or family connexion, or having given him suck, or
being nearly
related to his foster-mother.
1 The high antiquity of the veil has
been alluded to in the first chapter of this work. It has also been
mentioned that it is considered more necessary, in Egypt, for a
1 See the chapter on Religion and Laws. Eunuchs
are allowed to see the
face of any woman; so also are young boys.

woman to cover the upper and back
part of her head than her
face; and more requisite for her to conceal her
face than most
other parts of her person. For instance, a female who cannot
be
persuaded to unveil her face in the presence of men, will think it
but little shame to display the whole of her bosom, or the greater
part of
her leg. There are, it is true, many women among the
lower classes in this
country who constantly appear in public with
unveiled face; but they are
almost constrained to do so by the
want to a burko' (or face-veil), and the
difficulty of adjusting the
tarhah (or head-veil), of which scarcely any
woman is destitute, so
as to supply the place of the former; particularly
when both their
hands are occupied in holding some burden which they are
carrying
upon the head. When a respectable woman is, by any chance,
seen with her head or face uncovered by a man who is not entitled
to enjoy
that privilege, she quickly assumes or adjusts her
tarhab, and often
exclaims, “O my misfortune!” or “O my
sorrow!”
Motives of coquetry, however, frequently induce an
Egyptian woman to expose her face before a man when she thinks
that she may
appear to do so unintentionally, or that she may be
supposed not to see
him. A man may also occasionally enjoy
opportunities of seeing the face of
an Egyptian lady when she
really thinks herself unobserved; sometimes at an
open lattice,
and sometimes on a house-top. Many small houses in
Cairo
have no apartment on the ground-floor for the reception of male
visitors,
who therefore ascend to an upper room; but as they go
upstairs they exclaim
several times, “Destoor!”
(“Permission!”),
or “Yá
Sátir!” (“O Protector!” that is,
“O protecting God!”),
or us some similar ejaculation,
in order to warn any woman who
may happen to be in the way, to retire, or
to veil herself; which
she does by drawing a part of her tarhah before her
face, so as to
leave, at most, only one eye visible. To such an absurd
pitch do
the Muslims carry their feeling of the sacredness of women,
that
entrance into the
tombs of some females is
denied to men; as, for
instance, the tombs of the Prophet's wives and other
females of his
family, in the burial-ground of El-Medeeneh; into which
women
are freely admitted; and a man and woman they never bury in
the
same vault, unless a wall separate the bodies. Yet there are
among the
Egyptians a few persons who are much less particular
in this respect: such
is one of my Muslim friends here, who generally
allows me to see his mother
when I call upon him. She is
a widow, of about fifty years of age; but,
being very fat, and not
looking so old, she calls herself forty. She
usually comes to the

door of the apartment of the
hareem, in which I am received
(there being no lower apartment in the house
for male visitors),
and sits there upon the floor, but will never enter the
room.
Occasionally, and as if by accident, she shows me the whole of
her face, with plenty of kohl round her eyes; and does not attempt
to
conceal her diamonds, emeralds, and other ornaments,
but rather the
reverse. The wife, however, I am never permitted to
see, though once I was
allowed to talk to her, in the presence of
her husband, round the corner of
a passage at the top of the stairs.
I believe that in Egypt the women are generally under less
restraint than in
any other country of the Turkish empire; so that
it is not uncommon to see
females of the lower orders flirting and
jesting with men in public, and
men laying their hands upon them
very freely. Still it might be imagined
that the women of the
higher and middle classes feel themselves severely
oppressed, and
are much discontented with the state of seclusion to which
they
are subjected; but this is not commonly the case. On the
contrary,
an Egyptian wife who is attached to her husband is apt to
think, if he allows her unusual liberty, that he neglects her, and
does not
sufficiently love her; and to envy those wives who are
kept and watched
with greater strictness.
It is not very common for an Egyptian to have more than one
wife, or a
concubine-slave, though the law allows him
four
wives
(as I have before stated), and, according to common opinion, as
many concubine-slaves as he may choose. But though a man
restrict himself
to a single wife, he may change as often as he
desires; and there are
certainly not many persons in
Cairo who
have not divorced one wife, if they
have been long married. The
husband may, whenever he pleases, say to his
wife, “Thou art
divorced;” if it be his wish, whether
reasonable or not, she must
return to her parents or friends. This
liability to an unmerited
divorcement is the source of more uneasiness to
many wives than
all the other troubles to which they are exposed; as they
may
thereby be reduced to a state of great destitution; but to others,
who hope to better their condition, it is, of course, exactly the
reverse.
I have mentioned, in a former chapter, that a man many
divorce his wife
twice, and each time receive her again without
any ceremony; but that he
cannot legally take her again after a
third divorce until she has been
married and divorced by another
man. The consequences of a triple divorce
conveyed in one sentence
are the same, unless the man and his wife agree to
infringe
the law, or the former deny his having pronounced the sentence;

in which latter case the woman may
have much difficulty to enforce
his compliance with the law, if she be
inclined to do so.
In illustration of this subject, I may mention a case in which
an
acquaintance of mine was concerned as a witness of the sentence
of divorce.
He was sitting in a coffee-shop with two other
men, one of whom had just
been irritated by something that his
wife had said or done. After a short
conversation upon this affair,
the angry husband sent for his wife, and as
soon as she came,
said to her, “Thou art trebly
divorced;” then addressing his two
companions, he added,
“You, my brothers, are witnesses.” Shortly
after,
however, he repented of this act, and wished to take back
his divorced
wife; but she refused to return to him, and appealed
to the
“Shara Allah” (or Law of God). The case was tried at
the Mahkem'eh. The woman, who was the plaintiff, stated that
the defendant
was her husband; that he had pronounced against
her the sentence of a
triple divorce; and that he now wished her
to return to him, and live with
him as his wife, contrary to the
law, and consequently in a state of sin.
The defendant denied
that he had divorced her. “Have you
witnesses?” said the
judge to the plaintiff. She answered,
“I have here two witnesses.”
These were the men who
were present in the coffee-shop when
the sentence of divorce was
pronounced. They were desired to
give their evidence, and they stated that
the defendant divorced
his wife by a triple sentence, in their presence.
The defendant
averred that she whom he had divorced in the coffee-shop
was
another wife of his. The plaintiff declared that he had no other
wife: but the judge observed to her that it was impossible she
could know
that; and asked the witnesses what was the name of
the woman whom the
defendant divorced in their presence?
They answered that they were ignorant
of her name. They were
then asked if they could swear that the plaintiff
was the woman
who was divorced before them? Their reply was, that they
could
not swear to a woman whom they had never seen unveiled.
Under
these circumstances, the judge thought it advisable to dismiss
the case,
and the woman was obliged to return to her husband.
She might have demanded
that he should produce the
woman whom he professed to have divorced in the
coffee-shop,
but he would easily have found a woman to play the part he
required,
as it would not have been necessary for her to show a
marriage certificate; marriages being almost always performed in
Egypt
without any written contract, and sometimes even without
witnesses.

It not unfrequently happens that, when a man who has divorced
his wife the
third time wishes to take her again (she herself consenting
to their
reunion, and there being no witnesses to the
sentence of divorce), he does
so without conforming with the
offensive law before mentioned. It is also a
common custom for
a man under similar circumstances to employ a person to
marry
the divorced woman on the condition of his resigning her, the
day after their union, to him, her former husband, whose wife she
again
becomes, by a second contract; though this is plainly
contrary to the
spirit of the law. The wife, however, can withhold
her consent, unless she
is not of age; in which case, her
father, or other lawful guardian, may
marry her to whom he
pleases. A poor man (generally a very ugly person, and
often
one who is blind) is usually chosen to perform this office. He
is
termed a “Mustahall,” or
“Mustahill,” or a “Mohallil.” It is
often
the case that the man thus employed is so pleased with the
beauty
of the woman to whom he is introduced on these terms, or with
her riches, that he refuses to give her up; and the law cannot
compel him
to divorce her, unless he act unjustly towards her as
her husband; which of
course he takes good care not to do.
But a person may employ a mustahall
without running this risk.
It is the custom of many wealthy Turks, and of
some of the people
of Egypt, to make use of a slave, generally a black,
their own
property, to officiate in this character. Sometimes, a slave
is
purchased for this purpose; or if the person who requires him for
such a service be acquainted with a slave-dealer, he asks from the
latter a
present of a slave, signifying that he will give him back
again. The uglier
the slave, the better. The Turks generally
choose one not arrived at
puberty, which the tenets of their sect
allow. As soon as the woman has
accomplished her “'eddeh”
(or the period during which
she is obliged to wait before she can
marry again), the husband who
divorced her, having previously
obtained her consent to what he is about to
do, introduces the
slave to her, and asks her if she will be married to
him. She
replies that she will. She is accordingly wedded to the slave,
in
the presence of witnesses, and a dowry is given to her, to make
the
marriage perfectly legal. The slave consummates the marriage,
and thus
becomes the woman's legitimate husband. Immediately
after, or on the
following morning, her former husband presents
this slave to her as her own
property, and the moment that she
accepts him, her marriage with him
becomes dissolved; for it is
unlawful for a woman to be the wife of her own
slave: though

she may emancipate a slave, and
then marry him. As soon as
her marriage is dissolved
by her accepting the gift of the slave, she
may give back this slave to her
husband: but it seldom happens
that the latter will allow a person who has
been a mustahall for
him to remain in his house. The wife, after this
proceeding,
may, as soon as she has again accomplished her 'eddeh,
become
reunited to her former husband, after having been separated
from
him, by the necessity of her fulfilling two 'eddehs, about half a
year, or perhaps more.
That the facility of divorce has depraving effects upon both
sexes may be
easily imagined. There are many men in this
country who, in the course of
ten years, have married as many as
twenty, thirty, or more wives; and women
not far advanced in
age who have been wives to a dozen or more men
successively.
I have heard of men who have been in the habit of marrying
a
new wife almost every month. A person may do this although
possessed
of very little property: he may choose, from among the
females of the lower
orders in the streets of
Cairo, a handsome
young widow or divorced woman
who will consent to become his
wife for a dowry of about ten shillings; and
when he divorces
her, he need not give her more than double that sum to
maintain
her during her ensuing 'eddeh. It is but just, however, to
add
that such conduct is generally regarded as very disgraceful; and
that few parents in the middle or higher classes will give a daughter
in
marriage to a man who has divorced many wives.
Polygamy, which is also attended with very injurious effects
upon the morals
of the husband and the wives, and only to be
defended because it serves to
prevent a greater immorality than it
occasions, is more rare among the
higher and middle classes than
it is among the lower orders; and it is not
very common among
the latter. A poor man may indulge himself with two or
more
wives, each of whom may be able, by some art or occupation,
nearly to provide her own subsistence; but most persons of the
middle and
higher orders are deterred from doing so by the consideration
of the
expense and discomfort which they would incur.
A man having a wife who has
the misfortune to be barren, and
being too much attached to her to divorce
her, is sometimes
induced to take a second wife, merely in the hope of
obtaining
offspring; and from the same motive, he may take a third and
a fourth; but fickle passion is the most evident and common
motive both to
polygamy and repeated divorces. They are comparatively
very few who gratify
this passion by the former practice.

I believe that no more than one
husband among twenty has two
wives.
When there are two or more wives belonging to one man, the
first (that is,
the one first married) generally enjoys the highest
rank; and is called
“the great lady.” Hence it often happens
that, when a
man who has already one wife wishes to marry
another girl or woman, the
father of the latter, or the female
herself who is sought in marriage, will
not consent to the union
unless the firs wife by previously divorced. The
women, of
course, do not approve of a man's marrying more than one
wife.
Most men of wealth, or of moderate circumstances, and even
many
men of the lower orders, if they have two or more wives,
have, for each, a
separate house. The wife has, or can oblige her
husband to give her, a
particular description of lodging, which is
either a separate house, or a
suite of apartments (consisting of a
room in which to sleep and pass the
day, a kitchen, and a latrina)
that are, or may be made, separate and shut
out from any other
apartments in the same house. A fellow-wife is called
“durrah.”
1
The quarrels of durrahs are often talked of: for it may be
naturally
inferred that, when two wives share the affection and
attentions of the
same man, they are not always on terms of amity
with each other; and the
same is generally the case with a wife
and a concubine-slave living in the
same house, and under similar
circumstances.
2 If the chief lady be barren, and an
inferior,
either wife or slave, bear a child to her husband or master,
it
commonly results that the latter woman becomes a favourite of
the
man, and that the chief wife or mistress is “despised in her
eyes,” as Abraham's wife was in the eyes of Hagar on the same
account.
3 It
therefore not very unfrequently happens that the
first wife loses her rank
and privileges; another becomes the chief
lady, and, being the favourite of
her husband, is treated by her
rival or rivals, and by all the members and
visitors of the hareem,
with the same degree of outward respect which the
first wife
previously enjoyed: but sometimes the poisoned cup is
employed
to remove her. A preference given to a second wife is often
the
cause of the first's being registered as
“náshizeh,”
4 either on her
1 Commonly thus pronounced (or rather
“durrah,” with a soft d)
for
“darrah”; originally, perhaps, by way of a
pun; as “durrah” is a common
name for a parrot.
2 The law enjoins a husband who has two or more
wives, to be strictly impartial
to them in every respect; but
compliance with its dictates in this matter is rare.
4 This has been explained in the 3rd chapter,
page 88.

husband's or her own application at
the Mahkem'eh. Yet many
instances are known of neglected wives behaving
with exemplary
and unfeigned submission to their husband, in such cases,
and
with amiable good nature towards the favourite.
1
1 In general, the most beautiful of a man's
wives or slaves is, of course, for
a time, his greatest favourite; but
in many (if not most) cases, the lasting
favourite is not the most
handsome. The love of a Muslim, therefore, is not
always merely
sensual; nor does the relative condition and comfort of his
wife, or of
each of his wives, invariably depend so much on his caprice or her
own
personal charms, as on her general conduct and disposition.
Some wives have female slaves who are their own property,
generally
purchased for them, or presented to them, before
marriage. These cannot be
the husband's concubines without
their mistress's permission, which is
sometimes granted (as it was
in the case of Hagar, Sarah's bondwoman); but
very seldom.
Often, the wife will not even allow her female slave or slaves
to
appear unveiled in the presence of her husband. Should such a
slave, without the permission of her mistress, become the concubine
of the
husband, and bear him a child, the child is a slave,
unless, prior to its
birth, the mother be sold, or presented, to the
father.
The white female slaves are mostly in the possession of wealthy
Turks. The
concubine-slaves
2
in the houses of Egyptians of the
higher and middle classes are, generally,
Abyssinians, of a deep
brown or bronze complexion. In their features, as
well as their
complexions, they appear an intermediate race between
the
negroes and white people: but the difference between them and
either of the above-mentioned races is considerable. They themselves,
however, think that they differ so little from the white
people, that they
cannot be persuaded to act as servants, with
due obedience, to their
master's wives; and the black (or negro)
slave-girl feels exactly in the
same manner towards the Abyssinian;
but is perfectly willing to serve the
white ladies. I should here
mention, that the slaves who are termed
Abyssinians are not from
the country properly called Abyssinia, but from
the neighbouring
territories of the Gallas. Most of them are handsome.
The
average price of one of these girls is from ten to fifteen pounds
sterling, if moderately handsome; but this is only about half the
sum that
used to be given for one a few years ago. They are
much esteemed by the
voluptuaries of Egypt; but are of delicate
constitution: many of them die,
in this country, of consumption.
The price of a white slave-girl is usually
from treble to tenfold
2 A Muslim cannot take as a concubine a slave
who is an idolatress.

that of an Abyssinian; and the
price of a black girl, about half or
two-thirds, or considerably more if
well instructed in the art of
cookery. The black slaves are generally
employed as menials.
1
1 The white female slave is called
“Gáriyeh Beyda;” the Abyssinian,
“Gáriyeh Habasheeyeh;” and the black,
“Gáriyeh Sóda.”
Almost all of the slaves become converts to the faith of
El-Islám;
but, in general, they are little instructed in the
rites of
their new religion; and still less in its doctrines. Most of
the
white female slaves who were in Egypt during my former visit to
this country were Greeks; vast numbers of that unfortunate
people having
been made prisoners by the Turkish and Egyptian
army under
Ibráheem Básha; and many of them, males and
females,
including even infants scarcely able to walk, sent to
Egypt to be sold.
Latterly, from the impoverishment of the
higher classes in this country,
the demand for white slaves has
been small. A few, some of whom undergo a
kind of preparatory
education (being instructed in music or other
accomplishments,
at Constantinople), are brought from Circassia and
Georgia.
The white slaves, being often the only female companions,
and
sometimes the wives, of the Turkish grandees, and being
generally preferred
by them before the free ladies of Egypt, hold
a higher rank than the latter
in common opinion. They are
richly dressed, presented with valuable
ornaments, indulged, frequently,
with almost every luxury that can be
procured, and,
when it is not their lot to wait upon others, may, in some
cases,
be happy: as lately has been proved, since the termination of
the
war in Greece, by many females of that country, captives in
Egyptian hareems, refusing their offered liberty, which all of
these cannot
be supposed to have done from ignorance of the
state of their parents and
other relations, or the fear of exposing
themselves to poverty. But, though
some of them are undoubtedly
happy, at least for a time, their number is
comparatively
small: most are fated to wait upon more favoured
fellow-prisoners,
or upon Turkish ladies, or to receive the unwelcome
caresses of a wealthy dotard, or of a man who has impaired his
body and
mind by excesses of every kind; and, when their
master or mistress becomes
tired of them, or dies, are sold
again (if they have not borne children),
or emancipated, and
married to some person in humble life, who can afford
them but
few of the comforts to which they have been accustomed. The
female slaves in the houses of persons of the middle classes in
Egypt are
generally more comfortably circumstanced than those

in the hareems of the wealthy: if
concubines, they are, in most
cases, without rivals to disturb their peace;
and if menials, their
service is light, and they are under less restraint.
Often, indeed,
if mutual attachment subsist between her and her master,
the
situation of a concubine-slave is more fortunate than that of a
wife:
for the latter may be cast off by her husband in a moment of
anger, by an irrevocable sentence of divorce, and reduced to a
state of
poverty; whereas a man very seldom dismisses a female
slave without
providing for her in such a manner that, if she have
not been used to
luxuries, she suffers but little, if at all, by the
change: this he
generally does by emancipating her, giving her a
dowry, and marrying her to
some person of honest reputation;
or by presenting her to a friend. I have
already mentioned, that
a master cannot sell nor give away a slave who has
borne him a
child, if he acknowledge it to be his own; and that she is
entitled
to her freedom on his death. It often happens that such a
slave, immediately after the birth of her child, is emancipated,
and
becomes her master's wife: when she has become free, she
can no longer
lawfully supply the place of a wife unless he marry
her. Many persons
consider it disgraceful even to sell a female
slave who has been long in
their service. Most of the Abyssinian
and black slave-girls are abominably
corrupted by the Gellábs,
or slave-traders, of
Upper Egypt and
Nubia, by whom they are
brought from their native countries: there are very
few of the age
of eight or nine years who have not suffered brutal
violence; and
so severely do these children, particularly the Abyssinians,
and
boys as well as girls, feel the treatment which they endure from
the Gellábs, that many instances occur of their drowning
themselves
during the voyage down the Nile.
1 The female slaves of
every class
are somewhat dearer than the males of the same age.
Those who have not had
the small-pox are usually sold for less
than the others. Three days' trial
is generally allowed to the
purchaser; during which time, the girl remains
in his, or some
friend's, hareem; and the women make their report to
him.
Snoring, grinding the teeth, or talking during sleep, are
commonly
considered sufficient reasons for returning her to the
dealer.—The
dresses of the female slaves are similar to those of
the
Egyptian women.
1 The Gellábs generally convey their
slaves partly over the desert and partly
down the river.
The female servants, who are Egyptian girls or women, are
those to whom the
lowest occupations are allotted. They generally

veil their faces in the presence of
their masters, with the
head-veil; drawing a part of this before the face,
so that they
leave only one eye and one hand at liberty to see and
perform
what they have to do. When a male visitor is received by the
master of a house in an apartment of the hareem (the females of
the family
having been sent into another apartment on the occasions),
he is usually,
or often, waited upon by a female servant,
who is always veiled.
Such are the relative conditions of the various classes in the
hareem. A
short account of their usual habits and employments
must be added.
The wives, as well as the female slaves, are not only often
debarred from
the privilege of eating with the master of the
family, but also required to
wait upon him when he dines or sups,
or even takes his pipe and coffee in
the hareem. They frequently
serve him as menials; fill and light his pipe,
make coffee for him,
and prepare his food, or, at least, certain dainty
dishes; and if I
might judge from my own experience, I should say that most
of them
are excellent cooks; for, when a dish has been recommended to
me because made by the wife of my host, I have generally found
it
especially good. The wives of men of the higher and middle
classes make a
great study of pleasing and fascinating their
husbands by unremitted
attentions, and by various arts. Their
coquetry is exhibited, even in their
ordinary gait, when they go
abroad, by a peculiar twisting of the body.
1 In the presence
of
the husband, they are usually under more or less restraint; and
hence they are better pleased when his visits, during the day, are
not very
frequent or long: in his absence, they often indulge in
noisy merriment.
1 The motion here described they term
“ghung.”
The diet of the women is similar to that of the men, but more
frugal; and
their manner of eating is the same. Many of them
are allowed to enjoy the
luxury of smoking; for this habit is not
considered unbecoming in a female,
however high her rank; the
odour of the finer kinds of the tobacco used in
Egypt being very
delicate. Their pipes are generally more slender than
those of
the men, and more ornamented; and the mouth-piece is
sometimes
partly composed of coral, in the place of amber. They
generally make use of perfumes, such as musk, civet, etc., and
often, also,
of cosmetics, and particularly of several preparations
which they eat or
drink with the view of acquiring what they

esteem a proper degree of
plumpness:
1 one of
these preparations
is extremely disgusting; being chiefly composed of
mashed
beetles.
2
Many of them also have a habit of chewing frankincense,
and labdanum, which
impart a perfume to the breath.
The habit of frequent ablutions renders
them cleanly in person.
They spend but little time in the operations of the
toilet; and,
after having dressed themselves in the morning, seldom
change
their clothes during the day. Their hair is generally braided
in
the bath; and not undone afterwards for several days.
1 The Egyptians (unlike the Maghrab'ees, and
some other people of Africa
and of the East) do not generally admire
very fat woman. In his love-songs,
the Egyptian commonly describes the
object of his affections as of slender
figure and small waist.
2 I observed here,—“It
would seem that these insects were eaten by the
Jews (see Leviticus xi.
22); but we cannot suppose that they derived this
customs from the
Egyptians, who regarded the beetle as sacred.”—A
learned
friend, however, has informed me, that the word rendered
“beetle” in our
version of the passage of
Scripture which occasioned this remark properly
signifies a kind of
locust.
The care of their children is the primary occupation of the
ladies of Egypt:
they are also charged with the superintendence
of domestic affairs; but, in
most families, the husband alone
attends to the household expenses. Their
leisure-hours are
mostly spent in working with the needle; particularly in
embroidering
handkerchiefs, head-veils, etc., upon a frame called
“menseg,” with coloured silks and gold. Many women, even
in
the houses of the wealthy, replenish their private purses by
ornamenting
handkerchiefs and other things in this manner, and
employing a “delláleh” (or female broker) to
take them to the
market, or to other hareems, for sale. The visit of one
hareem
to another often occupies nearly a whole day. Eating, smoking,
drinking coffee and sherbet, gossiping, and displaying their finery,
are
sufficient amusements to the company. On such occasions,
the master of the
house is never allowed to enter the hareem,
unless on some particular and
unavoidable business; and in this
case, he must give notice of his
approach, and let the visitors
have sufficient time to veil themselves, or
to retire to an adjoining
room. Being thus under no fear of his sudden
intrusion, and
being naturally of a lively and an unreserved disposition,
they
indulge in easy gaiety, and not unfrequently in youthful frolic.
When their usual subjects of conversation are exhausted, sometimes
one of
the party entertains the rests with the recital of some
wonderful or
facetious tale. The Egyptian ladies are very

seldom instructed either in music
or dancing; but they take
great delight in the performances of professional
musicians and
public dancers; and often amuse themselves and their guests,
in
the absence of better performers and better instruments, by beating
the “darabukkeh” (which is a kind of drum) and the
“tár”
(or tambourine); though seldom in
houses so situated that many
passengers might hear the sounds of festivity.
On the occasion
of any great rejoicing among the women (such as takes place
on
account of the birth of a son, or the celebration of a
circumcision,
or a wedding, etc.), “'A'l'mehs” (or
professional female
singers) are often introduced; but not for the mere
amusement
of the women, on common occasions, in any respectable
family;
for this would be considered indecorous. The
“Gházeeyehs”
(or public dancing-girls),
who exhibit in the streets with unveiled
faces, are very seldom admitted
into a hareem; but on such
occasions as those above mentioned, they often
perform in front
of the house, or in the court; though, by many persons,
even
this is not deemed strictly proper. The
“A'látees” (or male
musicians) are never
hired exclusively for the amusement of the
women; but chiefly for that of
the men: they always perform in
the assembly of the latter; their concert,
however, is distinctly
heard by the inmates of the hareem.
When the women of the higher or middle classes go out to
pay a visit, or for
any other purpose, they generally ride upon
asses. They sit astride, upon a
very high and broad saddle,
which is covered with a small carpet; and each
is attended by a
man on one or on each side. Generally, all the women of
a
hareem ride out together; one behind another. Mounted as
above
described, they present a very singular appearance. Being
raised so high
above the back of the “homár 'álee”
(or the
“high ass”—for so the animal which
they ride, furnished with
the high saddle, is commonly called
1), they seem very
insecurely
seated; but I believe this is not really the case: the ass is
well
girthed, and sure-footed; and proceeds with a slow, ambling
pace,
and very easy motion. The ladies of the highest rank, as
well as those of
the middling classes, ride asses, thus equipped:
they are very seldom seen
upon mules or horses. The asses
are generally hired. When a lady cannot
procure a homár 'álee,
she rides one of the asses
equipped for the use of the men; but
has a
“seggádeh” (or prayer-carpet) placed over its
saddle; and
1 It is also called “homár
mughattee” (covered ass).

the inferior members of the hareem,
and females of the middle
orders, often do the same. Ladies never walk
abroad, unless
they have to go but a very short distance. They have a
slow
and shuffling gait, owing to the difficulty of retaining the
slippers
upon their feet; and, in walking, they always hold the front
edges
of the habarah in the manner represented in the engraving in
page 38 in this volume. Whether walking or riding, they are
regarded with
much respect in public: no well-bred man stares
at them; but rather directs
his eyes another way. They are never
seen abroad at night, if not compelled
to go out or return at that
time by some pressing and extraordinary
necessity: it is their
usual rule to return from paying a visit before
sunset. The ladies
of the higher orders never go to a shop, but send for
whatever
they want; and there are numerous dellálehs who have
access to
the hareems, and bring all kinds of ornaments, articles of
female
apparel, etc., for sale. Nor do these ladies, in general, visit
the
public bath, unless invited to accompany thither some of their
friends; for most of them have baths in their own houses.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER IX.
LANGUAGE, LITERATURE, AND SCIENCE.
THE metropolis of Egypt maintains the comparative reputation
by which it has
been distinguished for many centuries, of being
the best school of Arabic
literature, and of Muslim theology and
jurisprudence. Learning, indeed, has
much declined among the
Arabs universally; but least in
Cairo:
consequently, the fame of
the professors of this city still remains
unrivalled; and its great
collegiate mosque, the Azhar, continues to
attract innumerable
students from every quarter of the Muslim world.
The Arabic spoken by the middle and higher classes in
Cairo is generally
inferior, in point of grammatical correctness and
pronunciation, to the
dialects of the Bedawees of Arabia, and of
the inhabitants of the towns in
their immediate vicinity; but
much to be preferred to those of
Syria; and
still more, to those
of the Western Arabs. The most remarkable
peculiarities in the
pronunciation of the people of Egypt are the
following:—The
fifth letter of the alphabet is pronounced by the
natives of
Cairo, and throughout the greater part of Egypt, as
g in
give;
while, in most
parts of Arabia, and in
Syria and other countries,
it receives the sound of
j in
joy: but it is worthy of
remark, that,
in a part of southern Arabia, where, it is said, Arabic was
first
spoken, the former sound is given to this letter.
1 In those parts
of
Egypt where this pronunciation of the fifth letter prevails, the
sound of
“hemzeh” (which is produced by a sudden emission of
the voice after a total suppression) is given to the twenty-first letter,
excepting by the better instructed, who give to this letter its true
1 It seems probable that the Arabs of Egypt have
retained, in this case, a
pronunciation which was common, if not almost
universal, with their ancestors
in Asia.—See De Sacy's
Grammaire Arabe, 2nde ed., tome i., pp. 17 and 18.

sound, which I represent by
“k.” In other parts of Egypt, the
pronunciation of
the fifth letter is the same as that of
j in
joy, or
nearly so; and the twenty-first letter is
pronounced as
g in
give.
By all the Egyptians, in common with most other people who speak
the
Arabic language, the third and fourth letters of the alphabet
are
pronounced alike, as our
t; and the eighth and ninth, as our
d.—Of the peculiarities in the
structure of the Egyptian dialect of
Arabic, the
most remarkable are, the annexation of the letter
“sheen” in negative phrases, in the same manner as the
word
“pas” is used in French; as
“má yerdásh,” for
“má yerda,” “he
will not
consent;” “má hoosh teiyib,”
(vulgarly, “mósh teiyib”),
for
“má huwa teiyib,” “it is not
good:” the placing the demonstrative
pronoun
after the word to which it relates; as “el-beyt
dé,” “this house;” and a frequent
unnecessary use of the
diminutive form in adjectives: as
“sugheiyir,” for “sagheer,”
“small;” “kureiyib,” for
“kareeb,” “near.”
There is not so much difference between the literary and vulgar
dialects of
Arabic as some European Orientalists have supposed:
the latter may be
described as the ancient dialect
simplified,
principally
by the omission of the final vowels and other terminations
which distinguish the different cases of nouns and some of the
persons of
verbs.
1 Nor is there
so great a difference between the
dialects of Arabic spoken in different
countries as some persons,
who have not held intercourse with the
inhabitants of such
countries, have imagined: they resemble each other more
than
the dialects of some of the different counties in England. The
Arabic language abounds with synonyms; and, of a number of
words which are
synonymous, one is in common use in one
country, and another elsewhere.
Thus, the Egyptian calls milk
“leben;” the Syrian
calls it “haleeb:” the word “leben,”
is
used in
Syria to denote a particular preparation of
sour milk.
Again, bread is called in Egypt
“'eysh;” and in other Arab
countries,
“khubz;” and many examples of a similar kind might
be
adduced.—The pronunciation of Egypt has more softness than
that
of
Syria and most other countries in which Arabic is spoken.
1 The Arabs began to simplify their spoken
language in the first century of
the Flight, in consequence of their
spreading among foreigners, who could not
generally acquire the
difficult language which their conquerors had hitherto
used. For a
proof of this, see “Abulfedae Annales Muslemici, Arab. et
Lat.”
vol. i. pp. 432 and 434.
The literature of the Arabs is very comprehensive; but the
number of their
books is more remarkable than the variety. The

relative number of the books which
treat of religion and jurisprudence
may be stated to be about one-fourth:
next in number
are works on grammar, rhetoric, and various branches of
philology:
the third in the scale of proportion are those on history
(chiefly
that of the Arab nation), and on geography: the fourth,
poetical
compositions. Works on medicine, chemistry, the mathematics,
algebra, and various other sciences, etc., are comparatively very
few.
There are, in
Cairo, many large libraries; most of which are
attached to
mosques, and consist, for the greater part, of works
on theology and
jurisprudence, and philology. Several rich merchants,
and others, have also
good libraries. The booksellers
of
Cairo are, I am informed, only eight in
number;
1 and
their
shops are but ill stocked. Whenever a valuable book comes
into
the possession of one of these person, he goes round with
it to his regular
customers; and is almost sure of finding a
purchaser. The leaves of the
books are seldom sewed together;
but they are usually enclosed in a cover
bound with leather; and
mostly have, also, an outer case of pasteboard and
leather.
Five sheets, or double leaves, are commonly placed together,
one
within another; composing what is called a
“karrás.” The
leaves are thus arranged, in
small parcels, without being sewed,
in order that one book may be of use to
a number of persons at
the same time; each taking a karrás. The
books are laid flat,
one upon another; and the name is written upon the
front of
the outer case, or upon the edge of the leaves. The paper is
thick and glazed: it is mostly imported from Venice, and glazed
in Egypt.
The ink is very thick and gummy. Reeds are used
instead of pens; and they
suit the Arabic character much better.
The Arab, in writing, places the
paper upon his knee, or upon
the palm of his left hand, or upon what is
called a “misned'eh,”
composed of a dozen or more
pieces of paper attached together
at the four corners, and resembling a
thin book, which he rests
on his knee. His ink and pens are contained in a
receptacle
called “dawáyeh,” mentioned in
the first chapter of this work,
together with the penknife, and an ivory
instrument (“mikattah”)
upon which the pen is laid to
be nibbed. He rules his paper by
laying under it a piece of pasteboard with
strings strained and
glued across it (called a
“mistar'ah”), and slightly pressing it over
each
string. Scissors are included among the apparatus of a
writer: they are
used for cutting the paper; a torn edge being
1 These are natives. There are also a few
Turkish booksellers.

considered as unbecoming. In
Cairo
there are many persons
who obtain their livelihood by copying manuscripts.
The expense
of writing a karrás of twenty pages, quarto size,
with about
twenty-five lines to a page, in an ordinary hand, is about
three
piasters (or a little more than sevenpence of our money); but
more if in an elegant hand; and about double the sum if with
the vowel
points, etc.
In Egypt, and particularly in its metropolis, those youths or
men who
purpose to devote themselves to religious employments,
or to any of the
learned professions, mostly pursue a course of
study in the great mosque
El-Azhar, having previously learned
nothing more than to read, and,
perhaps, to write, and to recite
the Kur-án. The Azhar, which is
regarded as the principal university
1
of the East, is an extensive building, surrounding a
large, square
court. On one side of this court, the side towards
Mekkeh, is the chief
place of prayer, a spacious portico; on each
of the other three sides are
smaller porticoes, divided into a
number of apartments, called
“riwáks,” each of which is destined
for
the use of natives of a particular country, or of a particular
province of
Egypt. This building is situated within the metropolis.
It is not
remarkable in point of architecture, and is so
surrounded by houses that
very little of it is seen externally. The
students are called
“mugáwireen.”
2 Each riwák has a library
for the use of its members; and from the books which it contains,
and the
lectures of the professors, the students acquire their
learning. The
regular subjects of study are grammatical inflexion
and syntax, rhetoric,
versification, logic, theology, the exposition
1 The Azhar is not called a
“university” with strict propriety; but is
regarded
as such by the Muslims, as whatever they deem worthy of the
name of
science, or necessary to be known, is taught within its walls.
Its name has
been translated by European travellers, “the
Mosque of Flowers,” as though
it had been called
“Gámë' el-Azhár,”
instead of “El-Gámë' el-Azhar,”
which
is its proper appellation, and signifies “the Splendid
Mosque.” It is the
first, with respect to the period of its
foundation, as well as in size, of all the
mosques within the original
limits of the city.—The preceding portion of this
note
(which was inserted in the first edition of the present work) appears
to
have escaped the notice of Baron Hammer-Purgstall, for he has
remarked (in
the Vienna “Jahrbücher der
Literatur,” lxxxi. Bd., p. 71) that, instead of
“Azhar,” I should have written, in this case,
“Esher” [or “Ezher”]; the
former, he says, signifying “flowers.” The name of the
mosque in question
(synonymous with “neiyir,” or
“splendid,” etc.) is pronounced by almost
all the
natives of Egypt, and the Arabs in general, as I have written it,
“Azhar,”
with the accent on the first syllable;
and the plural of “zahreh” (a
flower),
“azhár;” but by the Turks the former word
is pronounced “ezher.”
2 In the singular,
“mugáwir.”

of the Kur-án, the
Traditions of the Prophet, the complete science
of jurisprudence, or rather
of religious, moral, civil, and criminal
law, which is chiefly founded on
the Kur-án and the Traditions,
together with arithmetic, as far
as it is useful in matters of law.
Lectures are also given on algebra, and
on the calculations of the
Mohammadan calendar, the times of prayer, etc.
Different
books are read by students of different sects. Most of the
students,
being natives of
Cairo, are of the Shaáfe'ee sect; and
always
the Sheykh, or head of the mosque, is of this sect. None of
the
students pay for the instruction they receive, being mostly of
the poorer
classes. Most of those who are strangers, having
riwáks
appropriated to them, receive a daily allowance of food,
provided from
funds chiefly arising from the rents of houses bequeathed
for their
maintenance. Those of
Cairo and its neighbourhood
used to receive a similar
allowance; but this they no
longer enjoy, excepting during the month of
Ramadán; for the
present Básha of Egypt has taken
possession of all the cultivable
land which belonged to the mosques; and
thus the Azhar has
lost the greater portion of the property which it
possessed: nothing
but the expenses of necessary repairs, and the salaries
of
its principal officers, are provided for by the government. The
professors also receive no salaries. Unless they inherit property,
or have
relations to maintain them, they have no regular means
of subsistence but
teaching in private houses, copying books, etc.;
but they sometimes receive
presents from the wealthy. Any person
who is competent to the task may
become a professor by
obtaining a licence from the Sheykh of the mosque.
The students
mostly obtain their livelihood by the same means as the
professors, or by reciting the Kur-án in private houses, and at
the
tombs and other places. When sufficiently advanced in their
studies, some of them become kádees, muftees, imáms of
mosques,
or schoolmasters, in their native villages or towns, or in
Cairo; others enter into trade; some remain all their lifetime
studying in
the Azhar, and aspire to be ranked among the higher
'Ulama. Since the
confiscation of the lands which belonged to
the Azhar, the number of that
class of students to whom no endowed
riwák is appropriated has
very much decreased. The
number of students, including all classes
excepting the blind, is (as
I am informed by one of the professors) about
one thousand five
hundred.
1
1 Many persons say that their number is not less
than three thousand; others,
not more than one thousand. It varies very
much at different times.

There is a chapel (called “Záwiyet
el-'Omyán,” or the Chapel
of the Blind), adjacent to
the eastern angle of the Azhar, and one
of the dependencies of that mosque,
where at present about three
hundred poor blind men, most of whom are
students, are maintained
from funds bequeathed for that purpose. These
blind
men often conduct themselves in a most rebellious and violent
manner; they are notorious for such conduct and for their fanaticism.
A
short time ago, a European traveller entering the Azhar,
and his presence
there being buzzed about, the blind men eagerly
inquired, “Where
is the infidel?” adding, “We will kill
him!”
and groping about at the same time to feel and lay hold of
him;
they were the only persons who seemed desirous of showing any
violence to the intruder. Before the accession of the present
Básha, they often behaved in a very outrageous manner whenever
they considered themselves oppressed, or scanted in their allowance
of
food; they would, on these occasions, take a few guides,
go about with
staves, seize the turbans of passengers in the streets,
and plunder the
shops. The most celebrated of the present professors
in the Azhar, the
sheykh El-Kuweysinee,
1
who is himself
blind, being appointed, a few years ago, Sheykh of the
Záwiyet
el-'Omyán, as soon as he entered upon his
office, caused every
one of the blind men there to be flogged; but they
rose against
him, bound him, and inflicted upon him a flogging far more
severe
than that which they had themselves endured, and obliged him to
give up his office.
1 Since this was written he became Sheykh of the
Azhar.
Learning was in a much more flourishing state in
Cairo before
the entrance
of the French army than it has been in later years.
It suffered severely
from this invasion, not through direct oppression,
but in consequence of
the panic which this event occasioned
and the troubles by which it was
followed. Before that period, a
sheykh who had studied in the Azhar, if he
had only two boys,
sons of a moderately rich felláb, to educate,
lived in luxury:
his two pupils served him, cleaned his house, prepared his
food,
and, though they partook of it with him, were his menial
attendants
at every time but that of eating: they followed him
whenever
he went out, carried his shoes (and often kissed them when
they
took them off) on his entering a mosque, and in every case
treated
him with the honour due to a prince. He was then distinguished
by an ample dress and the large formal turban called a mukleh;
and as he
passed along the street, whether on foot or mounted
on an ass or mule,
passengers often pressed towards him to implore

a short ejaculatory prayer on their
behalf; and he who
succeeded in obtaining this wish believed himself
especially
blessed: if he passed by a Frank riding, the latter was
obliged
to dismount; if he went to a butcher to procure some meat (for
he found it best to do so, and not to send another), the butcher
refused to
make any charge, but kissed his hand, and received as
an honour and a
blessing whatever he chose to give.—The condition
of a man of
this profession is now so fallen that it is with
difficulty he can obtain a
scanty subsistence unless possessed of
extraordinary talent.
The Muslim 'ulama are certainly much fettered in the pursuit
of some of the
paths of learning by their religion; and superstition
sometimes decides a
point which has been controverted
for centuries. There is one singular
means of settling a contention
on any point of faith, science, or fact, of
which I must give
an instance. The following anecdote was related to me by
the
Imám of the late Muftee (the sheykh El-Mahdee): I wrote it
in
Arabic, at his dictation, and shall here translate his words. The
sheykh Mohammad El-Baháee (a learned man, whom the vulgar
regard
as a “welee,” or especial favourite of heaven) was
attending
the lectures of the sheykh El-Emeer El-Kebeer (sheykh of the
sect of the Málikees), when the professor read, from the
Gámë'
es-Sagheer
1 of Es-Suyootee, this saying of the Prophet:
“Verily
El-Hasan and El-Hoseyn are the two lords of the youths
of the
people of Paradise, in Paradise;” and proceeded to
remark, in
his lecture, after having given a summary of the history of
El-Hasan
and El-Hoseyn, that, as to the common opinion of the
people
of
Masr (or
Cairo) respecting the head of El-Hoseyn,
holding it to be in
the famous Mesh-hed in this city (the mosque
of the Hasaneyn), it was
without foundation; not being established
by any credible authority.
“I was affected,” says Mohammad
El-Baháee,
“with excessive grief, by this remark; since I
believed what is
believed by people of integrity and of intuition,
that the noble head was
in this Mesh-hed; and I entertained no
doubt of it: but I would not oppose
the sheykh El-Emeer, on
account of his high reputation and extensive
knowledge. The
lecture terminated, and I went away, weeping; and when
night
overshaded the earth, I rose upon my feet, praying and humbly
supplicating my Lord, and betaking myself to His most noble
apostle (God
favour and preserve him!), begging that I might see
him in my sleep, and
that he would inform me in my sleep of the
1 A celebrated compendious collection of the
Traditions of the Prophet.

truth of the matter concerning the
place of the noble head. And
I dreamed that I was walking on the way to
visit the celebrated
Mesh-hed El-Hoseynee in
Masr, and that I approached
the kubbeh,
1 and saw in it a
spreading light, which filled it: and I entered
its door, and found a
shereef standing by the door; and I saluted
him, and he returned my
salutation, and said to me, ‘Salute the
Apostle of God (God
favour and preserve him!);' and I looked
towards the kibleh,
2 and saw the Prophet
(God favour and preserve
him!) sitting upon a throne, and a man standing on
his
right, and another man standing on his left: and I raised my
voice, saying, ‘Blessing and peace be on thee, O Apostle of
God!'
and I repeated this several times, weeping as I did it: and I
heard the Apostle of God (God favour and preserve him!) say to
me,
‘Approach, O my son! O Mohammad!' Then the first
man took me,
and conducted me towards the Prophet (God favour
and preserve him!) and
placed me before his noble hands; and I
saluted him, and he returned my
salutation, and said to me, ‘God
recompense thee for thy visit
to the head of El-Hoseyn my son.'
I said, ‘O Apostle of God, is
the head of El-Hoseyn here?'
He answered, ‘Yes, it is here.' And
I became cheerful: grief
fled from me; and my heart was strengthened. Then
I said, ‘O
Apostle of God, I will relate to thee what my sheykh
and my
preceptor El-Emeer hath affirmed in his lecture:' and I
repeated
to him the words of the sheykh: and he (God favour and
preserve
him!) looked down, and then raised his head, and said,
‘The copyists are excused.' I awoke from my sleep joyful and
happy: but I found that much remained of the night; and I
became impatient
of its length; longing for the morn to shine,
that I might go to the
sheykh, and relate to him the dream, in
the hope that he might believe me.
When the morn arose, I
prayed, and went to the house of the sheykh; but
found the door
shut. I knocked it violently; and the porter came in
alarm,
asking, ‘Who is that?' but when he knew me, for he had
known
my abode from the sheykh, he opened the door to me: if it had
been another person, he would have beaten him. I entered the
court of the
house, and began to call out, ‘My Master! My
Master!' The sheykh
awoke, and asked, ‘Who is that?' I
answered, ‘It is
I, thy pupil, Mohammad El-Baháee!' The
sheykh was in wonder at
my coming at this time, and exclaimed,
‘God's perfection! What
is this? What is the news?' thinking
1 The saloon of the tomb.
2 That is, towards the niche which marks the
direction of Mekkeh.

that some great event had happened
among the people. He then
said to me, ‘Wait while I pray.' I did
not sit down until the
sheykh came down to the hall; when he said to me,
‘Come up:'
and I went up, and neither saluted him, nor kissed
his hand, from
the effect of the dream which I had seen; but said,
‘The head of
El-Hoseyn is in this well-known mesh-hed in
Masr:
there is no
doubt of it.' The sheykh said, ‘What proof have you
of that?
If it be a true record, adduce it.' I said, ‘From a
book, I have
none.' The sheykh said, ‘Hast thou seen a vision?'
I replied,
‘Yes;' and I related it to him; and informed him that
the
Apostle of God (God favour and preserve him!) had acquainted
me
that the man who was standing by the door was 'Alee the son
of
Aboo-Tálib, and that he who was on the right of the Prophet,
by
the throne, was Aboo-Bekr, and that he on his left was 'Omar
the son of
El-Khattáb; and that they had come to visit the head
of the
Imám El-Hoseyn. The sheykh rose, and took me by the
hand, and
said, ‘Let us go and visit the Mesh-hed El-Hoseynee;'
and when
he entered the kubbeh, he said, ‘Peace be on thee, O
son of the
daughter of the Apostle of God! I believe that the
noble head is here, by
reason of the vision which this person has
seen; for the vision of the
Prophet is true; since He hath said,
“Whoso seeth Me in his
sleep seeth Me truly; for Satan cannot
assume the similitude of My
from.”' Then the sheykh said to me,
‘Thou hast
believed, and I have believed: for these lights are
not
illusive.”'—The above-quoted tradition of the Prophet
has
often occasioned other points of dispute to be settled in the same
manner, by a dream; and when the dreamer is a person of reputation,
no one
ventures to contend against him.
The remark made at the commencement of this chapter implies
that there are,
in the present day, many learned men in the
metropolis of Egypt; and there
are some also in other towns of
this country. One of the most celebrated of
the modern 'Ulama
of
Cairo is the sheykh Hasan El-'Attár, who is
the present sheykh
of the Azhar. In theology and jurisprudence, he is not
so deeply
versed as some of his contemporaries, particularly the sheykh
El-Kuweysinee,
whom I have before mentioned; but he is eminently
accomplished in polite literature. He is the author of an
“Insha,”
or an excellent collection of Arabic
letters, on various subjects,
which are intended as models of epistolary
style. This work has
been printed at Boolák. In mentioning its
author, I fulfil a promise
which he condescended to ask of me: supposing
that I
should publish, in my own country, some account of the people

of
Cairo, he desired me to state
that I was acquainted with him,
and to give my opinion of his
acquirements.—The sheykh Mohammad
Shiháb is also
deservedly celebrated as an accomplished
Arabic scholar, and elegant poet.
His affability and wit attract
to his house, every evening, a few friends,
whose pleasures, on
these occasions, I sometimes participate. We are
received in a
small, but very comfortable room: each of us takes his own
pipe;
and coffee alone is presented to us: the sheykh's conversation
is
the most delightful banquet that he can offer us.—There are
also
several other persons in
Cairo who enjoy considerable reputation
as philologists and poets.—The sheykh 'Abd-Er-Rahmán
El-Gabartee,
another modern author, and a native of
Cairo,
particularly
deserves to be mentioned, as having written a very excellent
history
of the events which have taken place in Egypt since the
commencement of the twelfth century of the Flight.
1 He died in
1825, or 1826, soon
after my first arrival in
Cairo. His family
was of El-Gabart (also called
Ez-Zeyla'), a province of Abyssinia,
bordering on the ocean. The Gabartees
(or natives of that
country) are Muslims. They have a riwák (or
apartment appropriated
to such of them as wish to study) in the Azhar; and
there
is a similar provision for them at Mekkeh, and also at El-Medeeneh.
1 The twelfth century of the Flight commenced on
the 16th or 17th of
October, A.D. 1688.
The works of the ancient Arab poets were but imperfectly
understood (in
consequence of many words contained in them
having become obsolete) between
two and three centuries, only,
after the time of Mohammad: it must not
therefore be inferred,
from what has been said in the preceding paragraph,
that persons
able to explain the most difficult passages of the early
Arab
authors are now to be found in
Cairo, or elsewhere. There are,
however, many in Egypt who are deeply versed in Arabic Grammar,
rhetoric,
and polite literature; though the sciences mostly
pursued in this country
are theology and jurisprudence. Few of
the ‘ulama of Egypt are
well acquainted with the history of their
own nation; much less with that
of other people.
The literary acquirements of those who do not belong to the
classes who make
literature their profession are of a very inferior
kind. Many of the
wealthy tradespeople are well instructed in
the arts of reading and
writing; but few of them devote much
time to the pursuit of literature.
Those who have committed to
memory the whole, or considerable portions, of
the Kur-án, and
can recite two or three celebrated
“kaseedehs” (or short poems),

or introduce, now and then, an
apposite quotation in conversation,
are considered accomplished persons.
Many of the tradesmen
of
Cairo can neither read nor write, or can only
read; and
are obliged to have recourse to a friend to write their
accounts,
letters, etc.: but these persons generally cast accounts, and
make
intricate calculations, mentally, with surprising rapidity and
correctness.
It is a very prevalent notion among the Christians of Europe,
that the
Muslims are enemies to almost every branch of knowledge.
This is an
erroneous idea; but it is true that their
studies, in the present age, are
confined within very narrow
limits. Very few of them study medicine,
chemistry (for our
first knowledge of which we are indebted to the Arabs),
the
mathematics, or astronomy. The Egyptian medical and surgical
practitioners are mostly barbers, miserably ignorant of the
sciences which
they profess, and unskilful in their practice;
partly in consequence of
their being prohibited by their religion
from availing themselves of the
advantage of dissecting human
bodies. But a number of young men, natives of
Egypt, are now
receiving European instruction in medicine, anatomy,
surgery,
and other sciences, for the service of the Government. Many
of the Egyptians, in illness, neglect medical aid; placing their
whole
reliance on Providence or charms. Alchemy is more
studied in this country
than pure chemistry; and astrology,
more than astronomy. The astrolabe and
quadrant are almost
the only astronomical instruments used in Egypt.
Telescopes are
rarely seen here; and the magnetic needle is seldom
employed,
excepting to discover the direction of Mekkeh; for which
purpose,
convenient little compasses (called
“kibleeyehs”), showing
the direction of the kibleh at
various large towns in different
countries, are constructed, mostly at
Dimyát: many of these have
a dial, which shows the time of noon,
and also that of the 'asr at
different places and different seasons. Those
persons in Egypt
who profess to have considerable knowledge of astronomy
are
generally blind to the true principles of the science: to say that
the earth revolves round the sun, they consider absolute heresy.
Pure
astronomy they make chiefly subservient to their computations
of the
calendar.
The Muslim year consists of twelve lunar months; the names of
which are
pronounced by the Egyptians in the following manner:—
1. Moharram.
2. Safar.

3. Rabeea el-Owwal.
4. Rabeea
et-Tánee.
5. Gumád el-Owwal, or
Gumáda-l-Oola.
6. Gumád et-Tánee, or
Gumáda-t-Tániyeh.
7. Regeb.
8.
Shaabián.
9. Ramadán.
10.
Showwál.
11. Zu-l-Kaadeh, or El-Kaadeh.
12. Zu-l-Heggeh, or
El-Heggeh.
1
1 It is the general opinion of our chronologers,
that the first day of the
Muslim era of “the
Flight” (in Arabic, “el-Hijrah,” or, as it
is pronounced
by most of the Egyptians,
“el-Higreh,” more correctly translated
“the
Emigration”) was Friday, the 16th of July,
A.D. 622. It must be remarked,
that the Arabs generally commence each
month on the night on which the
new moon is first actually seen; and
this night is, in most cases, the second,
but sometimes and in some
places the third, after the true period of the new
moon: if, however,
the moon is not seen on the second or third night, the
month is
commenced on the latter. The new moon of July, A.D. 622, happened
between five and six o'clock in the morning of the 14th: therefore the
16th
was most probably the first day of the era.
This era does not commence from
the day on which the Prophet departed
from Mekkeh (as supposed by most
of our authors who have mentioned this
subject), but from the first day of the
moon or month of Moharram
preceding that event. It is said that Mohammad,
after he had remained
three days concealed in a cave near Mekkeh,
with Aboo-Bekr began his
journey, or “the flight,” to El-Medeeneh, on the
ninth day of the third month (Rabeea el-Owwal), sixty-eight days after
the
commencement of the era. Thus the first two months are made of
thirty days
each, which is often the case when the calculation from the
actual sight of the
new moon is followed; and the flight itself, from
the cave, may be inferred to
have commenced on the 22nd of September.
It may be added, that this
record, by showing that each of the first
two months consisted of thirty days,
strengthens the supposition that
the era commenced on the 16th of July. On
the eve of the 15th, the moon
was not visible.
Each of these months retrogrades through all the different
seasons of the
solar year in the period of about thirty-three years
and a half:
consequently, they are only used for fixing the anniversaries
of most
religious festivals, and for the dates of historical
events, letters, etc.;
and not in matters relating to astronomy or
the seasons. In the latter
cases, the Coptic months are still in
general use.
With their modern names I give the corresponding periods of
our calendar:—
1. Toot |
commences on the 10th or 11th of Sept. |
2. Bábeh |
commences on the 10th or 11th of Oct. |

3. Hátoor |
commences on the 9th or 10th of Nov. |
4. Kiyahk (vulg. Kiyák) |
commences on the 9th or 10th of Dec. |
5. Toobeh |
commences on the 8th or 9th of Jan. |
6. Amsheer |
commences on the 7th or 8th of Feb. |
7. Barmahát |
commences on the 9th of March. |
8. Barmoodeh |
commences on the 8th of April. |
9. Beshens |
commences on the 8th of May. |
10. Ba-ooneh |
commences on the 7th of June. |
11. Ebeeb |
commences on the 7th of July. |
12. Misra |
commences on the 6th of August. |
The Eiyám en-Nesee (Intercalary days), five or six days, complete
the year.
These months, it will be observed, are of thirty days each.
Five intercalary
days are added at the end of three successive
years; and six at the end of
the fourth year. The Coptic leap-year
immediately precedes ours: therefore
the Coptic year begins
on the 11th of September only when it is the next
after their leap-year;
or when our next ensuing year is a leap-year; and,
consequently,
after the following February, the corresponding days
of
the Coptic and our months will be the same as in other years.
The Copts
begin their reckoning from the era of Diocletian,
A.D. 284.
In Egypt, and other Muslim countries, from sunset to sunset is
reckoned as
the civil day; the night being classed with the day
which
follows it: thus the night
before Friday is
called the night
of Friday. Sunset is twelve o'clock: an hour after
sunset, one
o'clock; two hours, two o'clock; and so on to twelve;
after
twelve o'clock in the morning, the hours are again named one,
two, three, and so on.
1 The Egyptians wind up and (if necessary)
set their watches at
sunset; or rather, a few minutes after;
generally when they hear the call
to evening-prayer. Their
watches, according to this system of reckoning
from sunset, to be
always quite correct, should be set every evening, as
the days
vary in length.
1 Consequently the time of noon according to
Mohammadan reckoning, on
any particular day, subtracted from twelve,
gives the apparent time of sunset,
on that day, according to European
reckoning.
The following Table shows the times of Muslim prayer,
2 with
2 The periods of the 'eshë, daybreak,
and 'asr, are here given according to
the reckoning most commonly
followed in Egypt. (See the chapter on
religion and laws.) Mo. T.
denotes Mohammadan Time: Eur. T., European
Time.

the apparent European time of
sunset, in and near the latitude of
Cairo, at the commencement of each
zodiacal month:—
|
|
Sunset. |
'Eshë. |
Daybreak. |
Noon. |
'Asr. |
|
|
Mo. |
T. |
Eur. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
|
|
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
June 21 |
12 |
0 |
7 |
4 |
1 |
34 |
8 |
6 |
4 |
56 |
8 |
31 |
July 22 |
May 21 |
12 |
0 |
6 |
53 |
1 |
30 |
8 |
30 |
5 |
7 |
8 |
43 |
Aug. 23 |
Apr. 20 |
12 |
0 |
6 |
31 |
1 |
22 |
9 |
24 |
5 |
29 |
9 |
4 |
Sept. 23 |
Mar. 20 |
12 |
0 |
6 |
4 |
1 |
18 |
10 |
24 |
5 |
56 |
9 |
24 |
Oct. 23 |
Feb. 18 |
12 |
0 |
5 |
37 |
1 |
18 |
11 |
18 |
6 |
23 |
9 |
35 |
Nov. 22 |
Jan. 20 |
12 |
0 |
5 |
15 |
1 |
22 |
11 |
59 |
6 |
45 |
9 |
41 |
Dec. 21 |
12 |
0 |
5 |
4 |
1 |
24 |
12 |
15 |
6 |
56 |
9 |
43 |
A pocket almanack is annually printed at the government-press
at
Boolák.
1 It comprises the period of a solar year, commencing
and
terminating with the vernal equinox; and gives, for every
day, the day of
the week, and of the Mohammadan, Coptic,
Syrian, and European months;
together with the sun's place in
the zodiac, and the time of sunrise, noon,
and the 'asr. It is
prefaced with a summary of the principal eras and
feast-days
of the Muslims, Copts, and others; and remarks and notices
relating to the seasons. Subjoined to it is a calendar containing
physical,
agricultural, and other notices for every day in the year;
mentioning
eclipses, etc.; and comprising much matter suited
to the superstitions of
the people. It is the work of Yahya
Efendee, originally a Christian priest
of
Syria; but now a
Muslim.
1 More than a hundred books have been printed at
this press: most of them
for the use of the military, naval, and civil
servants of the government.
Of Geography, the Egyptians in general, and, with very few
exceptions, the
best instructed among them, have scarcely any
knowledge; having no good
maps, they are almost wholly
ignorant of the relative situations of the
several great countries
of Europe. Some few of the learned venture to
assert that the
earth is a globe; but they are opposed by a great majority
of the
'Ulama. The common opinion of all classes of Muslims is, that
our earth is an almost plane expanse, surrounded by the ocean,
2
which, they say, is encompassed by a chain of mountains called
“Káf.” They believe it to be the uppermost of
seven earths;
and in like manner they believe
that there are seven heavens, one
above another.
2 As the Greeks believed in the age of Homer and
Hesiod.

Such being the state of science among the modern Egyptians,
the reader will
not be surprised at finding the present chapter
followed by a long account
of their superstitions; a knowledge
of which is necessary to enable him to
understand their character,
and to make due allowances for many of its
faults. We may
hope for, and, indeed, reasonably expect, a very great
improvement
in the intellectual and moral state of this people, in
consequence
of the introduction of European sciences, by which
their
present ruler has, in some degree, made amends for his
oppressive sway; but
it is not probable that this hope will be
soon realized to any considerable
extent.
1
1 It has been justly remarked, by Baron
Hammer-Purgstall, that the
present chapter of this work is very
deficient. I should gladly have made its
contents more ample, had I not
felt myself obliged to consult the taste of the
general reader, upon
whose patience I fear I have already trespassed to too
great an extent
by the insertion of much matter calculated to interest only
Orientalists. With respect to recent innovations, I have made but few
and
brief remarks in this work, in consequence of my having found the
lights of
European science almost exclusively confined to those
servants of the Government,
who have been compelled to study under Frank instructors, and European
customs
adopted by scarcely any persons excepting a few Turks. Some
Egyptians who had studied for a few years in France
declared to me that they
could not instil any of the notions which they
had there acquired even into the
minds of their most intimate
friends.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER X.
SUPERSTITIONS.
THE Arabs are a very superstitious people; and none of them are
more so than
those of Egypt. Many of their superstitions form a
part of their religion;
being sanctioned by the Kur-án; and the
most prominent of these
is the belief in “Ginn,” or Genii— in the
singular, “Ginnee.”
The Ginn are said to be of preadamite origin, and, in their
general
properties, an intermediate class of beings between angles
and men, but
inferior in dignity to both, created of fire, and capable
of assuming the
forms and material fabric of men, brutes, and
monsters, and of becoming
invisible at pleasure. They eat and
drink, propagate their species (like,
or in conjunction with, human
beings), and are subject to death; though
they generally live

many centuries. Their principal
abode is in the chain of mountains
called
“Káf,” which are believed to encompass the
whole
earth: as mentioned near the close of the preceding chapter.
Some are believers in El-Islám: others are infidels: the latter
are
what are also called “Sheytáns,” or
devils; of whom Iblees (that is,
Satan, or
the
devil) is the chief: for it is the general and best-supported
opinion, that
he (like the other devils) is a ginnee, as he was
created of fire; whereas
the
angels are created of
lights,
and are impeccable.
Of both the classes of genii, good and evil, the
Arabs
stand in great awe; and for the former they entertain a high
degree
of respect. It is a common custom of this people, on pouring
water,
etc., on the ground, to exclaim, or mutter,
“Destoor;” that is, to
ask the permission, or crave
the pardon, of any ginnee that may
chance to be there: for the ginn are
supposed to pervade the
solid matter of the earth, as well as the
firmament, where, approaching
the confines of the lowest heaven, they often
listen to the
conversation of the angels respecting future things, thus
enabling
themselves to assist diviners and magicians. They are also
believed
to inhabit rivers, ruined houses, wells, baths, ovens, and
even the
latrina: hence, persons, when they enter the
latter place,
and when they let down a bucket into a well, or light a fire,
and
on other occasions, say, “Permission!” or
“Permission, ye
blessed!”—which words, in
the case of entering the latrina, they
sometimes preface with a prayer for
God's protection against all
evil spirits; but in doing this, some persons
are careful not to
mention the name of God after they have entered (deeming
it
improper in such a place), and only say, “I seek refuge with
Thee
from the male and female devils.” These customs present a
Commentary
on the story in the “Thousand and One
Nights,” in
which a merchant is described as having killed a
ginnee by throwing
aside the stone of a date which he had just eaten. In
the
same story, and in others of the same collection, a ginnee is
represented
as approaching in a whirlwind of sand or dust; and it is
the general belief of the Arabs of Egypt, that the
“zóba'ah,” or
whirlwind which raises the
sand or dust in the form of a pillar of
prodigious height, and which is so
often seen sweeping across the
fields and deserts of this country, is
caused by the flight of one of
these beings; or, in other words, that the
ginnee “rides in the
whirlwind.”
1 A charm is usually
uttered by the Egyptians to
1 I measured the height of a zóba'ah,
with a sextant, at Thebes, under
circumstances which insured a very
near approximation to perfect accuracy
(observing its altitude, from an
elevated spot, at the precise moment when it
passed through, and
violently agitated, a distant group of palm-trees), and
found it to be
seven hundred and fifty feet. I think that several zóba'ahs
which I have seen were of greater height. Others, which I measured at
the
same place, were between five hundred and seven hundred feet in
height.

avert the zóba'ah, when
it seems to be approaching them: some
of them exclaim, “Iron,
thou unlucky!”—as genii are supposed
to have a great
dread of that metal: others endeavour to drive
away the monster by
exclaiming, “God is most great!” What
we call a
“falling star” (and which the Arabs term
“shilháb”) is
commonly believed to be a
dart thrown by God at an evil ginnee;
and the Egyptians, when they see it,
exclaim, “May God transfix
the enemy of the faith!”
The evil ginnees are commonly termed
“'Efreets;” and
one of this class is mentioned in the Kur-án in
these words,
“An 'efreet of the ginn answered” (chap. xxvii. ver.
39): which words Sale translates, “A terrible genius
answered.”
They are generally believe to differ from the other
ginn in being
very powerful, and always malicious; but to be, in other
respects,
of a similar nature. An evil ginnee of the most powerful class
is
called a “Márid.”
Connected with the history of the ginn are many fables not
acknowledged by
the Kur-án, and therefore not credited by the
more sober
Muslims, but only by the less instructed. All agree
that the ginn were
created before mankind; but some distinguish
another class of preadamite
beings of a similar nature. It is commonly
believed that the earth was
inhabited, before the time of
Adam, by a race of beings differing from
ourselves in form, and
much more powerful; and that forty (or, according to
some,
seventy-two) preadamite kings, each of whom bore the name of
Suleymán (or Solomon), successively governed this people. The
last of these Suleymáns was named Gánn
Ibn-Gánn; and from
him, some think, the ginn (who are also
called “gánn”)
1 derive
their name. Hence, some
believe the ginn to be the same with
the preadamite race here mentioned:
but other assert that they
(the ginn) were a distinct class of beings, and
brought into subjection
by the other race.
1 According to some writers, the Gánn
are the least powerful class of Genii.
Ginnees are believed often to assume, or perpetually to wear,
the shapes of
cats, dogs, and other brute animals. The sheykh
Khaleel
El-Medábighee, one of the most celebrated of the 'ulama
of
Egypt, and author of several works on various sciences, who
died, at a very
advanced age, during the period of my former visit

to this country, used to relate the
following anecdote.—He had,
he said, a favourite black cat,
which always slept at the foot of his
musquito-curtain. Once, at midnight,
he heard a knocking at the
door of his house; and his cat went, and opened
the hanging shutter
of his window, and called, “Who is
there?” A voice replied,
“I am such a one”
(mentioning a strange name) “the ginnee:
open the
door.” “The lock,” said the sheykh's cat,
“has had the
name [of God] pronounced upon it.”
1 “Then
throw me down,”
said the other, “two cakes of
bread.” “The bread-basket,” answered
the
cat at the window, “has had the name pronounced
upon
it.” “Well,” said the stranger, “at
leas give me a draught
of water.” But he was answered that the
water-jar had been
secured in the same manner; and asked what he was to do,
seeing
that he was likely to die of hunger and thirst: the sheykh's
cat told him to go to the door of the next house; and went there
also
himself, and opened the door, and soon after returned. Next
morning the
sheykh deviated from a habit which he had constantly
observed: he gave, to
the cat, half of the fateereh upon which he
breakfasted, instead of a
little morsel, which he was wont to give;
and afterwards said,
“O my cat, thou knowest that I am a poor
man: bring me, then, a
little gold:” upon which words, the cat
immediately disappeared,
and he saw it no more.—Ridiculous as
stories of this kind really
are, it is impossible, without relating one
or more, to convey a just
notion of the opinions of the people
whom I am attempting to describe.
1 It is a custom of many
“fukaha” (or learned and devout persons), and
some others, to say, “In the name of God, the Compassionate, the
Merciful,”
on locking a door, covering bread, laying down
their clothes at night, and on
other occasions; and this, they believe,
protects their property from genii. The
thing over which these words
have been pronounced is termed “musemmee
(for
“musemma”) 'aleyh.”
It is commonly affirmed, that malicious or disturbed genii very
often
station themselves on the roofs, or at the windows, of houses
in
Cairo, and
other towns of Egypt, and throw bricks and stones
down into the streets and
courts. A few days ago, I was told of
a case of this kind, which had
alarmed the people in the main
street of the metropolis for a whole week;
many bricks having
been thrown down from some of the houses every day
during this
period, but nobody killed or wounded. I went to the scene
of
these pretended pranks of the genii, to witness them, and to make
inquiries on the subjects; but on my arrivals there, I was told that
the
“regm” (that is, the throwing) had ceased. I found no
one

who denied the throwing down of the
bricks, or doubted that it
was the work of genii; and the general remark,
on mentioning
the subject, was, “God preserve us from their evil
doings!”
One of my friends observed to me, on this occasion, that he
had met with
some Englishmen who disbelieved in the existence
of genii; but he concluded
that they had never witnessed a public
performance, though common in their
country, of which he had
since heard, called
“kumedyeh” (or comedy); by which term he
meant to
include all theatrical performances. Addressing one of
his countrymen, and
appealing to me for the confirmation of his
words, he then
said—“An Algerine, a short time ago, gave me an
account of a spectacle of this kind which he had seen in
London.”
—Here his countryman interrupted him, by
asking, “Is not
England in London? or is London a town in
England?”—My
friend, with diffidence, and looking to
me, answered that London
was the metropolis of England; and then resumed
the subject of
the theatre.—“The house,”
said he, “in which the spectacle was
exhibited cannot be
described: it was of a round form, with many
benches on the floor, and
closets all round, in rows, one above
another, in which people of the
higher classes sat; and there was
a large square aperture, closed with a
curtain. When the house
was full of people, who paid large sums of money to
be admitted,
it suddenly became very dark: it was night; and the house
had
been lighted up with a great many lamps; but these became
almost
entirely extinguished, all at the same time, without being
touched by
anybody. Then the great curtain was drawn up:
they heard the roaring of the
sea and wind; and indistinctly perceived,
through the gloom, the waves
rising and foaming, and
lashing the shore. Presently a tremendous peal of
thunder was
heard; after a flash of lightning had clearly shown to the
spectators
the agitated sea: and then there fell a heavy shower of
real
rain. Soon after, the day broke; the sea became more plainly
visible; and two ships were seen in the distance: they approached,
and
fought each other, firing their cannons; and a variety of other
extraordinary scenes were afterwards exhibited. Now it is
evident,” added my friend, “that such wonders must have
been
the works of genii, or at least performed by their
assistance.”—
He could not be convinced of his error
by my explanations of
these phenomena.
During the month of Ramadán, the genii, it is said, are confined
in prison; and hence, on the eve of the festival which follows that
month,
some of the women of Egypt, with the view of preventing

these objects of dread from
entering their houses, sprinkle salt
upon the floors of the apartments;
saying, as they do it, “In the
name of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful.”
A curious relic of ancient Egyptian superstition must here be
mentioned. It
is believed that each quarter in
Cairo has its
peculiar guardian-genius, or
Agathodaemon, which has the form of
a serpent.
The ancient tombs of Egypt, and the dark recesses of the
temples, are
commonly believed, by the people of this country, to
be inhabited by
'efreets. I found it impossible to persuade one
of my servants to enter the
Great Pyramid with me, from his
having this idea. Many of the Arabs ascribe
the erection of the
Pyramids, and all the most stupendous remains of
antiquity in
Egypt, to Gánn, Ibn-Gánn, and his
servants, the ginn; conceiving
it impossible that they could have been
raised by human hands.
The term 'efreet is commonly applied rather to an evil ginnee
than any other
being; but the ghosts of dead persons are also
called by this name; and
many absurd stories are related of
them; and great are the fears which they
inspire. There are
some persons, however, who hold them in no degree of
dread.—
I had once a humorous cook, who was somewhat addicted to
the
intoxicating hasheesh: soon after he had entered my service, I
heard him, one evening, muttering and exclaiming on the stairs,
as if in
surprise at some event; and then politely saying, “But
why are
you sitting here in the draught?—Do me the favour to
come up
into the kitchen, and amuse me with your conversation
a little.”
The civil address, not being answered, was repeated
and varied several
times; till I called out to the man, and asked
him to whom he was speaking.
“The 'efreet of a Turkish
soldier,” he replied,
“is sitting on the stairs, smoking his pipe,
and refuses to
move: he came up from the well below: pray step
and see him.” On
my going to the stairs, and telling the servant
that I could see nothing,
he only remarked that it was because I
had a clear conscience. He was told,
afterwards, that the house
had long been haunted; but asserted that he had
not been
previously informed of the supposed cause; which was the fact
of
a Turkish solider having been murdered there. My cook professed
to
see this 'efreet frequently after.
The existence of “Ghools” likewise obtains almost
universal
credence among the modern Egyptians, in common with several
other Eastern nations. These beings are generally believed to
be a class of
evil ginnees, and are said to appear in the forms of

various animals, and in many
monstrous shapes; to haunt burial-grounds,
and other sequestered spots; to
feed upon dead bodies;
and to kill and devour every human creature who has
the misfortune
to fall in their way. Hence, the term
“ghool” is applied,
in general, to any cannibal.
That fancies such as these should exist in the minds of a people
so ignorant
as those who are the subject of these pages cannot
reasonably excite our
surprise. But the Egyptians pay a superstitious
reverence not to imaginary
beings alone: they extend it to
certain individuals of their own species;
and often to those who
are justly the least entitled to such respect.
1 An
idiot or a
fool is
vulgarly regarded by
them as a being whose mind is in heaven,
while his grosser part mingles
among ordinary mortals; consequently,
he is considered an especial
favourite of heaven. Whatever
enormities a reputed saint may commit (and
there are many
who are constantly infringing precepts of their religion),
such acts
do not affect his fame for sanctity: for they are considered as
the
results of the abstraction of his mind from worldly things; his
soul, or reasoning faculties, being wholly absorbed in devotion; so
that
his passions are left without control. Lunatics who are
dangerous to
society are kept in confinement; but those who are
harmless are generally
regarded as saints. Most of the reputed
saints of Egypt are either
lunatics, or idiots, or impostors. Some
of them go about perfectly naked,
and are so highly venerated,
that the women, instead of avoiding them,
sometimes suffer these
wretches to take any liberty with them in the public
street; and,
by the lower orders, are not considered as disgraced by
such
actions, which, however, are of very rare occurrence. Others are
seen clad in a cloak or long coat composed of patches of various
coloured
cloths, which is called a “dilk,”
2 adorned with numerous
strings of
beads, wearing a ragged turban, and bearing a staff with
shreds of cloth of
various colours attached to the top. Some of
them eat straw, or a mixture
of chopped straw and broken glass;
and attract observation by a variety of
absurd actions. During
my first visit to this country, I often met, in the
streets of
Cairo,
a deformed man, almost naked, with long matted hair, and
riding
upon an ass, led by another man. On these occasions, he always
stopped his beast directly before me, so as to intercept my way,
recited
the Fát'hah (or opening chapter of the Kur-án), and then
1 As is the case also in Switzerland.
2 Also (and, I believe, more properly) written
“dalik,” but commonly
pronounced as above.

held out his hand for an alms. The
first time that he thus crossed
me, I endeavoured to avoid him; but a
person passing by remonstrated
with me, observing that the man before me
was a
saint, and that I ought to respect him, and comply with his
demand, lest some misfortune should befall me. Men of this
class are
supported by alms, which they often receive without asking
for them. A
reputed saint is commonly called “sheykh,”
“murábit,” or “welee.” If
affected with lunacy or idiotcy, or of
weak intellect, he is also, and more
properly, termed “megzoob,”
or
“mesloob.” “Welee” is an appellation
correctly given only to
an eminent and very devout saint; and signifies
“a favourite of
heaven;” but it is so commonly
applied to real or pretended
idiots, that some wit has given it a new
interpretation, as equivalent
to “beleed,” which
means “a fool” or “simpleton;”
remarking
that these two terms are equivalent both in sense and in
the
numerical value of the letters composing them: for
“welee”
is written with the letters
“wä'w,” “lám,”
and “yé,” of which the
numerical values
are 6, 30, and 10, or, together, 46; and “beleed”
is
written with “bé”
“lám,” “yé,”
and “dál,” which are 2, 30,
10, and 4, or,
added together, 46. A simpleton is often jestingly
called a welee.
The Muslims of Egypt, in common with those of other countries,
entertain
very curious superstitions respecting the persons
whom they call welees. I
have often endeavoured to obtain information
on the most mysterious of
these superstitions; and have
generally been answered, “You are
meddling with the matters of
the ‘tareekah,”' or the
religious course of the darweeshes; but I
have been freely acquainted with
general opinions on these subjects,
and such are perhaps all that may be
required to be stated
in a work like the present: I shall, however, also
relate what I
have been told by learned persons, and by darweeshes, in
elucidation
of the popular belief.
In the first place, if a person were to express a doubt as to the
existence
of true welees, he would be branded with infidelity;
and the following
passage of the Kur-án would be adduced to
condemn him:
“Verily, on the favourites
1 of God no fear shall
come, nor shall they
grieve.”
2 This is considered as sufficient to
prove that there is a class of
persons distinguished above ordinary
human beings. The questions then
suggests itself, “Who, or of
what description are these
persons?” and we are answered,
“They are persons
wholly devoted to God, and possessed of
1 In the original,
“owliya,” plural of “welee.”

extraordinary faith; and, according
to their degree of faith, endowed
with the power of performing
miracles.”
1
1 A miracle performed by a welee is termed
“karámeh:” one performed
by a prophet,
“moagiz'eh.”
The most holy of the welees is termed the Kutb; or, according
to some
persons, there are two who have this title; and again,
according to others,
four. The term “kutb” signifies an
axis;
and hence is applied to a welee who rules over others: they
depending
upon him, and being subservient to him. For the same
reason
it is applied to temporal rulers, or any person of high
authority. The
opinion that there are
four kutbs, I am told, is a
vulgar error, originating from the frequent mention of “the four
kutbs,” by which expression are meant the founders of the four
most celebrated orders of darweeshes (the Rifá'eeyeh,
Kádireeyeh,
Ahmedeeyeh, and Baráhimeh); each of whom
is believed to have
been the kutb of his time. I have also generally been
told, that
the opinion of there being
two kutbs is a
vulgar error, founded
upon two names, “Kutb
el-Hakeekah” (or the Kutb of Truth),
and “Kutb
el-Ghós” (or the Kutb of Invocation for help), which
properly belong to but one person. The term “el-Kutb
el-Mutawellee”
is applied, by those who believe in but one kutb,
to
the one ruling at the present time; and by those who believe in
two, to the
acting kutb. The kutb who exercises a
superintendence
over all other welees (whether or not there be another
kutb
—for if there be, he is inferior to the former) has, under
his
authority, welees of different ranks, to perform different
offices;
“Nakeebs,” “Negeebs,”
“Bedeels,”
2 etc.; who are known only
to each other, and
perhaps to the rest of the welees, as holding
such offices.
2 In the plural forms,
“Nukaba,” “Angáb” or
“Nugaba,” and
“Abdál.”
The Kutb, it is said, is often seen, but not known as such;
and the same is
said of all who hold authority under him. He
always has a humble demeanour,
and mean dress; and mildly
reproves those whom he finds acting impiously;
particularly such
as have a false reputation for sanctity. Though he is
unknown to
the world, his favourite stations are well known; yet at
these
places he is seldom visible. It is asserted that he is almost
constantly
seated at Mekkeh, on the roof of the Kaabeh; and,
though
never seen there, is always heard at midnight to call
twice, “O
thou most merciful of those who show mercy!”
which cry is then
repeated from the mád'nehs of the temple, by
the
muëddins: but a respectable pilgrim, whom I have just

questioned upon this matter, has
confessed to me that he himself
has witnessed that this cry is made by a
regular minister of
the mosque; yet that few pilgrims know this: he
believes, however,
that the roof of the Kaabeh is the chief
“markaz” (or
station) of the Kutb. Another favourite
station of this revered
and unknown person is the gate of
Cairo called
Báb Zuweyleh,
which is at the southern extremity of that part of
the metropolis
which constituted the old city; though now in the heart of
the
town; for the capital has greatly increased towards the south, as
it has also towards the west. From its being a supposed station
of this
mysterious being, the Báb Zuweyleh is commonly called
“El-Mutawellee.”
1 One leaf of its great wooden door (which is
never shut), turned back against the eastern side of the interior
of the
gateway, conceals a small vacant space, which is said to be
the place of
the Kutb. Many persons, on passing by it, recite the
Fát'hah;
and some give alms to a beggar who is generally seated
there, and who is
regarded by the vulgar as one of the servants
of the Kutb. Numbers of
persons afflicted with head-ache drive
a nail into the door, to charm away
the pain; and many
sufferers from the tooth-ache extract a tooth, and
insert it in a
crevice of the door, or fix it in some other way, to insure
their
not being attacked again by the same malady. Some curious
individuals often try to peep behind the door, in the vain hope of
catching
a glimpse of the Kutb, should he happen to be there,
and not at the moment
invisible. He has also many other
stations, but of inferior celebrity, in
Cairo; as well as one at the
tomb of the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee, at
Tanta;
another at
El-Mahalleh (which, as well as
Tanta, is in the Delta); and
others in other places. He is believed to transport himself from
Mekkeh to
Cairo in an instant; and so also from any one place
to another. Though he
has a number of favourite stations, he
does not abide solely at these; but
wanders throughout the whole
world, among persons of every religion, whose
appearance, dress,
and language he assumes; and distributes to mankind,
chiefly
through the agency of the subordinate welees, evils and
blessings,
the awards of destiny. When a Kutb dies, he is immediately
succeeded in his office by another.
1 For “Báb
El-Mutawellee.”
Many of the Muslims say that Elijah, or Elias, whom the
vulgar confound with
El-Khidr,
2 was
the Kutb of his time; and

that he invests the successive
kutbs: for they acknowledge
that he has never died; asserting him to have
drunk of the
Fountain of Life. This particular in their superstitious
notions
respecting the kutbs, combined with some others which I have
before mentioned, is very curious when compared with what we
are told, in
the Bible, of Elijah, of his being transported from
place to place by the
spirit of God; of his investing Elisha with
his miraculous powers, and his
offices; and of the subjection of
the other prophets to him and to his
immediate successor.
1 Some
welees renounce the pleasures of the world, and the society
of
mankind; and, in a desert place, give themselves up to meditation
upon heaven, and prayer; depending upon Divine Providence
for their
support; but their retreat becomes known; and the
Arabs daily bring them
food. This, again, reminds us of the
history of Elijah: for, in the opinion
of some critics, we should
read, for the word
“ravens,” in the fourth and sixth verses of the
seventeenth chapter of the second book of Kings, “Arabs:”
“I
have commanded the
Arabs to feed
thee”—“And the
Arabs
brought him bread,” etc.
2 This mysterious person, according to the more
approved opinion of the
learned, was not a prophet, but a just man, or
saint, the Wezeer and counsellor
of the first Zu-l-Karneyn, who was a
universal conqueror, but an
equally doubtful personage, contemporary
with the ‘patriarch Ibráheem, or
Abraham.
El-Khidr is said to have drunk of the Fountain of Life, in consequence
of which he lives till the day of judgment, and to appear frequently to
Muslims in perplexity. He is generally clad in green garments; whence,
according to some, his name.
1 See 1 Kings xviii. 12, and 2 Kings ii.
9–16.
Certain welees are said to be commissioned by the Kutb to
perform offices
which, according to the accounts of my informants
here, are far from being
easy. These are termed “Asháb
ed-Darak,”
which is interpreted as signifying “watchmen,”
or
“overseers.” In illustration of their employments, the
following
anecdote was related to me a few days ago.—A devout
tradesman
in this city, who was ardently desirous of becoming a welee,
applied to a person who was generally believed to belong to this
holy
class, and implored the latter to assist him to obtain the
honour of an
interview with the Kutb. The applicant, after
having undergone a strict
examination as to his motives, was
desired to perform the ordinary ablution
(el-wudoó), very early
the next morning; then to repair to the
mosque of El-Mu-eiyad
(at an angle of which is the Báb Zuweyleh,
or El-Mutawellee,
before mentioned), and to lay hold of the first person
whom he
should see coming out of the great door of this mosque. He did
so. The first person who came out was an old, venerable-looking