THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
OF THE
MODERN EGYPTIANS.
INTRODUCTION.
THE COUNTRY AND
CLIMATE—METROPOLIS—HOUSES—
POPULATION.
It is generally observed that many of the most
remarkable
peculiarities in the manners, customs, and character of a
nation
are attributable to the physical peculiarities of the country.
Such
causes, in an especial manner, affect the moral and social state
of the modern Egyptians, and therefore here require some preliminary
notice; but it will not as yet be necessary to explain
their particular
influences: these will be evinced in many subsequent
parts of the present
work.
The Nile, in its course trough the narrow and winding valley
of
Upper Egypt,
which is confined on each side by mountainous
and sandy deserts, as well as
through the plain of
Lower Egypt, is
everywhere bordered, excepting in a
very few places, by cultivated
fields of its own formation. These
cultivated tracts are not
perfectly level, being somewhat lower towards the
deserts than in
the neighbourhood of the river. They are interspersed with
palm
groves and villages, and intersected by numerous canals. The
copious summer rains which prevail in Abyssinia and the neighbouring
countries begin to show their effects in Egypt, by the
rising of the Nile,
about the period of the summer solstice. By
the autumnal equinox, the river
attains its greatest height, which
is always sufficient to fill the canals
by which the fields are
irrigated, and, generally, to inundate large
portions of the cultivable
land: it then gradually falls until the period
when it again

begins to rise. Being impregnated,
particularly during its rise,
with rich soil washed down from the
mountainous countries
whence it flows, a copious deposit is annually
spread, either by
the natural inundation or by artificial irrigation, over
the fields
which border it; while its bed, from the same cause, rises in
an
equal degree. The Egyptians depend entirely upon their river
for
the fertilization of the soil, rain being a very rare phenomenon
in their
country, excepting in the neighbourhood of the Mediterranean;
and as the
seasons are perfectly regular, the peasant may
make his arrangements with
the utmost precision respecting the
labour he will have to perform.
Sometimes his labour is light;
but when it consists in raising water for
irrigation it is excessively
severe.
The climate of Egypt, during the greater part of the year, is
remarkably
salubrious. The exhalations from the soil after the
period of the
inundation render the latter part of the autumn less
healthy than the
summer and winter; and cause ophthalmia and
dysentery, and some other
diseases, to be more prevalent then
than at other seasons; and during a
period of somewhat more or
less than fifty days (called
“el-khamáseen
1”), commencing in
April, and lasting
throughout May, hot southerly winds occasionally
prevail for about three
days together. These winds, though
they seldom cause the thermometer of
Fahrenheit to rise above
95° in
Lower Egypt, or, in
Upper Egypt,
105°,
2
are dreadfully
oppressive, even to the natives. When the plague visits
Egypt, it
is generally in the spring; and this disease is most severe in
the
period of the khamáseen. Egypt is also subject,
particularly
during the spring and summer, to the hot wind called the
“samoom,” which is still more oppressive than the
khamáseen
winds, but of much shorter duration, seldom lasting
longer than
a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. It generally
proceeds
from the south-east, or south-south-east, and carries with it
clouds
of dust and sand. The general height of the thermometer in the
depth of winter in
Lower Egypt, in the afternoon and in the
shade, is from
50° to 60°: in the hottest season it is from
90° to
100°; and about ten degrees higher in the
southern parts of
Upper Egypt. But though the summer heat is so great it
is
seldom very oppressive, being generally accompanied by a refreshing
northerly breeze, and the air being extremely dry. There

is, however, one great source of
discomfort arising from this
dryness—namely, an excessive
quantity of dust; and there are
other plagues which very much detract from
the comfort which
the natives of Egypt, and visitors to their country,
otherwise
derive from its genial climate. In spring, summer, and
autumn,
flies are so abundant as to be extremely annoying during the
daytime, and musquitoes are troublesome at night (unless a
curtain be made
use of to keep them away), and sometimes even
in the day; and every house
that contains much wood-work (as
most of the better houses do) swarms with
bugs during the warm
weather. Lice are not always to be avoided in any
season, but
they are easily got rid of; and in the cooler weather fleas
are
excessively numerous.
1 Respecting this term, see the first of the
notes in Chapter xxvi.
2 This is the temperature in the shade. At
Thebes, I have observed the
thermometer to rise above 110°
during a khamáseen wind, in the shade.
The climate of
Upper Egypt is more healthy, though hotter,
than that of
Lower Egypt. The plague seldom ascends far above
Cairo, the metropolis; and
is most common in the marshy parts
of the country, near the Mediterranean.
During the last ten
years, the country having been better drained, and
quarantine
regulations adopted to prevent or guard against the
introduction
of this disease from other countries, very few plague cases
have
occurred, excepting in the parts above mentioned, and in those
parts the pestilence has not been severe.
1 Ophthalmia is also
more common in
Lower Egypt
than in the southern parts. It
generally arises from checked perspiration,
but is aggravated by
the dust and many other causes. When remedies are
promptly
employed, this disease is seldom alarming in its progress;
but
vast numbers of the natives of Egypt, not knowing how to treat
it,
or obstinately resigning themselves to fate, are deprived of the
sight of
one or both of their eyes.
1 This remark was written before the terrible
plague of the present year
[1835], which was certainly introduced from
Turkey, and extended throughout
the whole of Egypt, though its ravages
were not great in the southern parts.
It has destroyed not less than
eighty thousand persons in Cairo: that is, one-third
of the population;
and far more, I believe, than two hundred thousand
in all Egypt.
According to a report made by the government, the victims of
this
plague in Cairo were about forty thousand; but I have
been informed, on
high authority, that the government made it a rule to
report only half the
number of deaths in this case.
When questioned respecting the salubrity of Egypt, I have
often been asked
whether many aged persons are seen among the
inhabitants: few, certainly,
attain a great age in this country;
but how few do, in our own land,
without more than once suffering
from an illness that would prove fatal
without medical aid,

which is obtained by a very small
number in Egypt! The heat
of the summer months is sufficiently oppressive
to occasion
considerable lassitude, while, at the same time, it excites
the
Egyptian to intemperance in sensual enjoyments; and the exuberant
fertility of the soil engenders indolence, little nourishment
sufficing for
the natives, and the sufficiency being procurable
without much exertion.
The modern Egyptian metropolis, to the inhabitants of which
most of the
contents of the following pages relate, is now called
“
Masr”;
1 more properly, “
Misr”; but was
formerly named
“El-Káhireh”; whence
Europeans have formed the name of
Cairo. It is situated at the entrance of the valley of
Upper
Egypt, midway between the Nile and the eastern mountain range
of
Mukattam. Between it and the river there intervenes a tract
of land, for
the most part cultivated, which, in the northern parts
(where the port of
Boolák is situated), is more than a mile in
width, and, at the
southern part, less than half a mile wide. The
metropolis occupies a space
equal to about three square miles;
and its population is about two hundred
and forty thousand. It
is surrounded by a wall, the gates of which are shut
at night, and
is commanded by a large citadel, situated at an angle of the
town,
near a point of the mountain. The streets are unpaved, and
most
of them are narrow and irregular: they might more properly
be called lanes.
1 This is the name by which the modern Egyptians
call their country, as
well as its metropolis.
By a stranger who merely passed through the streets,
Cairo would be regarded
as a very close and crowded city; but that
this is not the case is evident
to a person who overlooks the town
from the top of a lofty house, or from
the menaret of a mosque.
The great thoroughfare-streets have generally a
row of shops
along each side. Above the shops are apartments which do
not
communicate with them, and which are seldom occupied by the
persons who rent the shops. To the right and left of the great
thoroughfares are bye-streets and quarters. Most of the bye-streets
are
thoroughfares, and have a large wooden gate at each end,
closed at night,
and kept by a porter within, who opens to any
persons requiring to be
admitted. The quarters mostly consist
of several narrow lanes, having but
one general entrance, with a
gate, which is also closed at night; but
several have a bye-street
passing through them.


PRIVATE HOUSE IN CAIRO. The street in this view is wider than
usual. The projecting windows on opposite sides of a street often
nearly meet each other, almost entirely excluding the sun, and thus
producing an agreeable coolness in the summer.

Of the private houses of the metropolis it is particularly necessary
that I
should give a description. The accompanying engraving
will serve to give a
general notion of their exterior. The
foundation-walls, to the height of
the first floor, are cased, externally,
and often internally, with the soft
calcareous stone of the
neighbouring mountain. The surface of the stone,
when newly
cut, is of a light yellowish hue; but its colour soon darkens.
The
alternate courses of the front are sometimes coloured red and
white,
1
particularly in large houses; as is the case with most
mosques. The
superstructure, the front of which generally projects
about two feet, and
is supported by corbels or piers, is of
brick, and often plastered. The
bricks are burnt, and of a dull
red colour. The mortar is generally
composed of mud in the
proportion of one-half, with a fourth part of lime,
and the remaining
part of the ashes of straw and rubbish. Hence the
unplastered
walls of brick are of a dirty colour, as if the bricks were
unburnt.
The roof is flat, and covered with a coat of plaster.
1 With red ochre and lime wash.
The most usual architectural style of the entrance of a private
house in
Cairo is shown by he sketch here inserted. The door
is often ornamented in
the manner here represented: the compartment
in which is the inscription,
and the other similarly-shaped
compartments, are painted red, bordered with
white; the
rest of the surface of the door is painted green. The
inscription,
“He (
i.e., God) is the
excellent Creator, the Everlasting” (the
object of which will be
explained when I treat of the superstitions
of the Egyptians), is seen on
many doors; but is far from being
general. It is usually painted in black
or white characters. Few
doors but those of large houses are painted. They
generally have
an iron knocker and a wooden lock; and there is usually a
mounting-stone
by the side.
The ground-floor apartments next the street have small wooden
grated
windows, placed sufficiently high to render it impossible
for a person
passing by in the street, even on horseback, to see
through them. The
windows of the upper apartments generally
project a foot and a half, or
more, and are mostly formed of turned
wooden lattice-work, which is so
close that it shuts out much of
the light and sun, and screens the inmates
of the house from the
view of persons without, while at the same time it
admits the air.
They are generally of unpainted wood; but some few are
partially
painted red and green, and some are entirely painted. A window

of this kind is called a
“róshan,” or, more commonly, a
“meshrebeeyeh,”
which latter word has another
application, that will be

DOOR OF A PRIVATE HOUSE.
mentioned below. Several windows of different descriptions are
represented in some of the illustrations of this work; and sketches

of the most common patterns of the
lattice-work, on a larger

SPECIMENS OF LATTICE WORK. From the centre of one row of beads to
that of the next (in these specimens) is between an inch and a
quarter and an inch and three-quarters.
scale, are here inserted.
1 Sometimes a window of the kind above

described has a little
meshrebeeyeh, which somewhat resembles a
róshan in miniature,
projecting from the front, or from each side.
In this, in order to be
exposed to a current of air, are placed
porous earthen bottles, which are
used for cooling water by
evaporation. Hence the name of
“meshrebeeyeh,” which signifies
“a place
for drink,” or “—for drinking.” The
projecting window
has a flat one of lattice-work, or of grating of wood, or
of coloured
glass, immediately above it. This upper window, if of
lattice-work,
is often of a more fanciful construction than the
others,
exhibiting a representation of a basin with a ewer above it, or
the
figure of a lion, or the name of “Allah,” or the
words “God is my
hope,” etc. Some projecting windows
are wholly constructed of
boards, and a few have frames of glass in the
sides. In the
better houses, also, the windows of lattice-work are now
generally
furnished with frames of glass in the inside, which in the
winter
are wholly closed: for a penetrating cold is felt in Egypt when
the
thermometer of Fahrenheit is below 60°. The windows of
inferior
houses are mostly of a different kind, being even with the
exterior surface of the wall: the upper part is of wooden lattice-work,
or
grating; and the lower closed by hanging shutters; but
many of these have a
little meshrebeeyeh for the water-bottles,
projecting from the lower part.
1 No. 1 is a view and section of a portion of
the most simple kind. This and
the other four kinds and here
represented on a scale of about one-seventh of the
real size. No. 6
shows the general proportions of the side of a projecting
window. The
portion A is, in most instances, of lattice-work similar to
No. 1, and
comprises about twelve rows of beads in the width: the portion B
is
commonly either of the same kind, or like No. 2 or No. 3; and the small
lattice C, which is attached by hinges, is generally similar to No.
4.
The houses in general are two or three storeys high; and
almost every house
that is sufficiently large encloses an open,
unpaved court, called a
“hósh,” which is entered by a passage
that
is constructed with one or two turnings, for the purpose of
preventing
passengers in the street from seeing into it.
1 In this
passage, just within the
door, there is a long stone seat, called
“mastab'ah,”
built against the back or side wall, for the porter
and other servants. In
the court is a well of slightly brackish
water, which filters through the
soil from the Nile; and on its
most shaded side are, commonly, two
water-jars, which are daily replenished
with water of the Nile, brought
from the river in skins.
2
The principal apartments look into the court; and their exterior


COURT OF A PRIVATE HOUSE IN CAIRO.

walls (those which are of brick)
are plastered and whitewashed.
There are several doors, which are entered
from the court. One
of these is called “báb
el-hareem” (the door of the hareem): it
is the entrance of the
stairs which lead to the apartments
appropriated exclusively to the women
and their master and his
children.
1
1 Commonly similar to No. 1, or No. 5.
2 Some large houses have two courts: the inner
for the hareem; and in the
latter, or both of these, there is usually a
little enclosure of arched wood-work,
in which trees and flowers are
raised.
1 In the accompanying view of the court of a
house, the door of the hareem
is that which faces the spectator.
In-general, there is, on the ground floor, an apartment called a
“mandar'ah,” in which male visitors are received. This has
a
wide wooden grated window, or two windows of this kind, next
the
court. A small part of the floor, extending from the door to
the opposite
side of the room, is six or seven inches lower than
the rest: this part is
called the “durká'ah.”
2 In a handsome

FOUNTAIN.
house, the durká'ah of the mandar'ah is paved with white
and
black marble, and little pieces of fine red tile, inlaid in
complicated
and tasteful patterns, and has in the centre a fountain
(called “faskeeyeh”), which plays into a small shallow
pool, lined
with coloured marbles, etc., like the surrounding pavement.
I
give a sketch of the fountain. The water which falls from the
fountain is drained off from the pool by a pipe. There is generally,
fronting the door, at the end of the durká'ah, a shelf of marble

or of common stone, about four feet
high, called a “suffeh,” supported
by two or more
arches, or by a single arch, under which
are placed utensils in ordinary
use—such as perfuming vessels,
and the basin and ewer which are
used for washing before and
after meals, and for the ablution preparatory
to prayer: water-bottles,
coffee-cups, etc., are placed upon the suffeh. In
handsome
houses, the arches of the suffeh are faced with marble and
tile, like the pool of the fountain represented in the sketch above,
and
sometimes the wall over it, to the height of about four feet or
more, is
also cased with similar materials: partly with large upright
slabs, and
partly with small pieces, like the durká'ah. The
raised part of
the floor of the room is called “leewán”
1 (a
corruption
of “el-eewán,” which signifies “any
raised place to sit
upon,” and also “a
palace”). Every person slips off his shoes on
the
durká'ah before he steps upon the leewán.
2 The latter is

SUFFEH.
generally paved with common stone, and covered with a mat in
summer, and a carpet over the mat in winter; and has a mattress
and
cushions placed against each of its three walls, composing
what is called a
“deewán,” or divan. The mattress, which is
generally about three feet wide and three or four inches thick, is
placed
either on the ground or on a raised frame; and the
cushions, which are
usually of a length equal to the width of the
mattress, and of a height
equal to half that measure, lean against
the wall. Both mattresses and
cushions are stuffed with cotton,
and are covered with printed calico,
cloth, or some more expensive

stuff. The walls are plastered and
whitewashed. There are
generally, in the walls, two or three shallow
cupboards, the doors
of which are composed of very small panels, on account
of the
heat and dryness of the climate, which cause wood to warp and
shrink as if it were placed in an oven; for which reason the doors
of the
apartments also are constructed in the same manner. We
observe great
variety and much ingenuity displayed in the different
modes in which these
small panels are formed and disposed.
A few specimens are here introduced.
The ceiling over the
leewán is of wood, with carved beams,
generally about a foot
apart, partially painted, and sometimes gilt. But
that part of the
ceiling which is over the durká'ah, in a
handsome house, is usually
more richly decorated; here, instead of beams,
numerous thin
strips of wood are nailed upon the planks, forming
patterns
curiously complicated, yet perfectly regular, and having a
highly
ornamental effect. I give a sketch of the half of a ceiling
thus
decorated, but not in the most complicated style. The strips are
painted yellow or gilt; and the spaces within, painted green, red,
and
blue.
1 In the
example which I have inserted, the colours
are as indicated in the sketch
of a portion of the same on a
larger scale, excepting in the square in the
centre of the ceiling,
where the strips are black, upon a yellow ground.
From the
centre of this square a chandelier is often suspended. There
are
many patterns of a similar kind; and the colours generally
occupy
similar places with regard to each other; but in some
houses these ceilings
are not painted. The ceiling of a projecting
window is often ornamented in
the same manner. A sketch of
one is here given. Good taste is evinced by
only decorating in
this manner parts which are not always before the eyes;
for to
look long at so many lines intersecting each other in various
directions would be painful.
2 Apparently a corruption of the Persian
“dargáh.”—The view of a
ká'ah
opposite p. 14 will serve to illustrate the
description of the mandar'ah.
1 The “leewán”
is not to be confounded with the “deewán,”
which is afterwards
mentioned.
2 One of the chief reasons of the custom here
mentioned is, to avoid defiling
a mat or carpet upon which prayer is
usually made. This, as many authors
have observed, illustrates passages
of the Scriptures—Exodus iii. 5, and Joshua
v. 15.
In some houses (as in that which is the subject of the engraving
opposite p.
9) there is another room, called a “mak'ad,” for the
same
use as the mandar'ah, having an open front, with two or more
arches and a low railing; and also, on the ground floor, a square
recess,
called a “takhtabósh,” with an open front, and
generally
a pillar to support the wall above: its floor is a paved
leewán;
and there is a long wooden sofa placed along one, or
two, or each
of its three walls. The court, during the summer, is
frequently
sprinkled with water, which renders the surrounding
apartments

agreeably cool—or at
least those on the ground-floor. All the
rooms are furnished in the same
manner as that first described.

SPECIMENS OF PANEL-WORK. These are represented on a scale of one
inch to twenty-four or thirty.
Among the upper apartments, or those of the Hareem, there
is generally one
called a “ká'ah,” which is particularly lofty.
It

has two
leewáns—one on each hand of a person entering: one of
these is generally larger than the other, and is the more honourable

CEILING OF A DURKá' AH.—About eight feet
wide.

CEILING OF A PROJECTING WINDOW. The dimensions of this are about
eight feet by three.
part. A portion of the roof of this saloon, the part which is

over the durká'ah that
divides the two leewáns, is a little elevated
above the rest;
and has, in the centre, a small lantern, called
“memrak,” the sides of which are composed of lattice-work,
like
the windows before described, and support a cupola. The
durká'ah
is commonly without a fountain; but is often paved in
a
similar manner to that of the mandar'ah, which the ká'ah
also
resembles in having a handsome suffeh, and cupboards of curious
panel-work. There is, besides, in this and some other apartments,
a narrow
shelf of wood, extending along two or each of the three
walls which bound
the leewán, about seven feet or more from the
floor, just above
the cupboards, but interrupted in some parts—
at least in those
parts where the windows are placed; upon this
are arranged several vessels
of china, not so much for general use
as for ornament.
1 All the apartments
are lofty, generally fourteen
feet or more in height; but the
ká'ah is the largest and most lofty
room, and in a large house
it is a noble saloon.
1 In the larger houses, and some others, there
is also, adjoining the principal
saloon, an elevated closet, designed
as an orchestra, for female singers. A
description of this will be
found in the chapter on music.
In several of the upper rooms, in the houses of the wealthy,
there are,
besides the windows of lattice-work, others, of coloured
glass,
representing bunches of flowers, peacocks, and other gay
and gaudy objects,
or merely fanciful patterns, which have a
pleasing effect. These coloured
glass windows, which are termed
“kamareeyehs,”
2 are mostly from a
foot and a half to two feet
and a half in height, and from one to two feet
in width; and are
generally placed along the upper part of the projecting
lattice-window,
in a row; or above that kind of window, disposed in a
group, so as to form a large square; or elsewhere in the upper
parts of the
walls, usually singly, or in pairs, side by side. They
are composed of
small pieces of glass, of various colours, set in
rims of fine plaster, and
enclosed in a frame of wood. On the
plastered walls of some apartments are
rude paintings of the
temple of Mekkeh, or of the tomb of the Prophet, or
of flowers
and other objects, executed by native Muslim artists, who
have
not the least notion of the rules of perspective, and who
consequently

deface what they thus attempt to
decorate. Sometimes,
also, the walls are ornamented with Arabic
inscriptions, of maxims,
etc., which are more usually written on paper, in
an embellished
style, and enclosed in glazed frames. No chambers are
furnished
as bedrooms. The bed, in the daytime, is rolled up, and
placed
on one side, or in an adjoining closet, called
“khazneh,” which,
in the winter, is a sleeping-place:
in summer, many people sleep
upon the house-top. A mat, or carpet, spread
upon the raised
part of the stone floor, and a deewán,
constitute the complete
furniture of a room. For meals, a round tray is
brought in, and
placed upon a low stool, and the company sit round it on
the
ground. There is no fire-place:
1 the room is warmed, when
necessary, by burning
charcoal in a chafing-dish. Many houses
have, at the top, a sloping shed of
boards, called a “malkaf,”
2

WOODEN LOCK.
directed towards the north or north-west, to convey to a
“fes-hah,”
or “fesahah” (an
open apartment), below the cool breezes which
generally blow from those
quarters.
2 This word is said to be derived from
“kamar” (the moon). Baron
Hammer-Purgstall thinks
(see the Vienna “Jahrbücher der Literatur,”
lxxxi.
bd., pp. 71, 72) that it has its origin from Chumaruje [or, as
he is called by
the Arabs in general, Khumáraweyh], the
second prince of the dynasty of the
Benee-Tooloon, who governed in
Egypt in the end of the ninth century of the
Christian era, and that it
proves the art of staining glass to have been in a
flourishing state in
Cairo at that period.
1 Excepting in the kitchen, in which are several
small receptacles for fire,
constructed on a kind of bench of brick.
Hence, and for several other reasons
(among which may be mentioned the
sober and early habits of the people, the
general absence of draperies
in the apartments, and the construction of the
floors, which are of
wood overlaid with stone), the destruction of a house by
fire seldom
happens in Cairo; but when such an accident does occur, an extensive
conflagration is the usual result; for a great quantity of wood, mostly
deal,
and of course excessively dry, is employed in the construction of
the houses.
2 See again the engraving opposite p. 9.
Every door is furnished with a wooden lock, called a
“dabbeh,”

the mechanism of which is shown by
a sketch here inserted.
No. 1 in this sketch is a front view of the lock,
with the bolt
drawn back; Nos. 2, 3, and 4, are back views of the
separate
parts, and the key. A number of small iron pins (four, five,
or more) drop into corresponding holes in the sliding bolt as
soon as the
latter is pushed into the hole or staple of the
door-post. The key also has
small pins, made to correspond
with the holes, into which they are
introduced to open the
lock: the former pins being thus pushed up, the bolt
may be
drawn back. The wooden lock of a street-door is commonly
about
fourteen inches long:
1 those of the doors of apartments,
cupboards, etc., are about
seven, or eight, or nine inches. The
locks of the gates of quarters, public
buildings, etc., are of the
same kind, and mostly two feet, or even more,
in length. It is
not difficult to pick this kind of lock.
1 This is the measure of the sliding
bolt.
In the plan of almost every house there is an utter want of
regularity. The
apartments are generally of different heights—so
that a person
has to ascend or descend one, two, or more steps,
to pass from one chamber
to another adjoining it. The principal
aim of the architect is to render
the house as private as possible;
particularly that part of it which is
inhabited by the women; and
not to make any window in such a situation as
to overlook the
apartments of another house. Another object of the
architect, in
building a house for a person of wealth or rank, is to make
a
secret door (“báb sirr”
2), from which the
tenant may make his
escape in case of danger from an arrest, or an attempt
at assassination—or
by which to give access and egress to a
paramour; and
it is also common to make a hiding-place for treasure
(called
“makhba”) in some part of the house. In the
hareem of a large
house there is generally a bath, which is heated in the
same
manner as the public baths.
2 This term is also applied sometimes to the
door of the hareem.
Another style of building has lately been very generally adopted
for houses
of the more wealthy. These do not differ much from
those already described;
excepting in the windows, which are of
glass, and placed almost close
together. Each window of the
hareem has, outside, a sliding frame of close
wooden trellis-work,
to cover the lower half. The numerous glass windows
are ill
adapted to a hot climate.
When shops occupy the lower part of the buildings in a street
(as is
generally the case in the great thoroughfares of the metropolis,

A KÄAH.


and in some of the bye-streets),
the superstructure is usually
divided into distinct lodgings, and is termed
“raba.” These
lodgings are separate from each other,
as well as from the shops
below, and let to families who cannot afford the
rent of a whole
house. Each lodging in a raba comprises one or two sitting
and
sleeping-rooms, and generally a kitchen and latrina. It seldom
has
a separate entrance from the street, one entrance and one
staircase usually
admitting to a range of several lodgings. The
apartments are similar to
those of the private houses first described.
They are never let
ready-furnished; and it is very seldom that a
person who has not a wife or
female slave is allowed to reside in
them, or in any private house: such a
person (unless he have
parents or other near relations to dwell with) is
usually obliged to
take up his abode in a
“wekáleh,” which is a building chiefly
designed
for the reception of merchants and their goods. Franks,
however, are now exempted from this restriction.
Very few large or handsome houses are to be seen in Egypt,
excepting in the
metropolis and some other towns. The dwellings
of the lower orders,
particularly those of the peasants, are of
a very mean description: they
are mostly built of unbaked bricks,
cemented together with mud. Some of
them are mere hovels.
The greater number, however, comprise two or more
apartments;
though few are two storeys high. In one of these apartments,
in
the houses of the peasants in
Lower Egypt, there is generally an
oven (“furn”), at the end farthest from the entrance, and
occupying
the whole width of the chamber. It resembles a wide bench
or
seat, and is about breast-high: it is constructed of brick and
mud; the
roof arched within, and flat on the top. The inhabitants
of the house, who
seldom have any night-covering during the
winter, sleep upon the top of the
oven, having previously lighted
a fire within it; or the husband and wife
only enjoy this luxury,
and the children sleep upon the floor. The chambers
have small
apertures high up in the walls, for the admission of light and
air
—sometimes furnished with a grating of wood. The roofs
are
formed of palm-branches and palm-leaves, or of millet-stalks,
etc.,
laid upon rafters of the trunk of the palm, and covered with a
plaster of mud and chopped straw. The furniture consists of a
mat or two to
sleep upon, a few earthen vessels, and a hand-mill
to grind the corn. In
many villages large pigeon-houses of a
square form, but with the walls
slightly inclining inwards (like
many of the ancient Egyptian buildings),
or of the form of a
sugar-loaf, are constructed upon the roofs of the huts,
with crude

brick, pottery, and mud.
1 Most of the
villages of Egypt are situated
upon eminences of rubbish, which rise a few
feet above the
reach of the inundation, and are surrounded by palm-trees,
or have
a few of these trees in their vicinity. The rubbish which they
occupy chiefly consists of the materials of former huts, and seems
to
increase in about the same degree as the level of the alluvial
plains and
the bed of the river.
1 The earthen pots used in the construction of
these pigeon-houses are of an
oval form, with a wide mouth, which is
placed outwards, and a small hole at
the other end. Each pair of
pigeons occupies a separate pot.
In a country where neither births nor deaths are registered it is
next to
impossible to ascertain, with precision, the amount of the
population. A
few years ago a calculation was made, founded on
the number of houses in
Egypt, and the supposition that the inhabitants
of each house in the
metropolis amount to eight persons,
and in the provinces to four. This
computation approximates, I
believe, very nearly to the truth; but personal
observation and
inquiry incline me to think that the houses of such towns
as
Alexandria, Boolák, and
Masr el-'Ateekah contain each, on
the
average, at least five persons: Rasheed (or
Rosetta) is half
deserted;
but as to the crowded town of Dimyát
2 (or
Damietta),
we must reckon as many as six persons to each house, or our
estimate will
fall far short of what is generally believed to be the
number of its
inhabitants. The addition of one or two persons
to each house in the
above-mentioned towns will, however, make
little difference in the
computation of the whole population of
Egypt, which was found, by this mode
of reckoning, to amount
to rather more than 2,500,000; but it is now much
reduced. Of
2,500,000 souls, say 1,200,000 are males; and one-third of
this
number (400,000) men fit for military service: from this latter
number the present Básha of Egypt has taken, at the least,
200,000 (that is, one-half of the most serviceable portion of the
male
population) to form and recruit his armies of regular troops,
and for the
service of his navy. The further loss caused by
withdrawing so many men
from their wives, or preventing their
marrying, during ten years, must
surely far exceed 300,000; consequently,
the present population may be
calculated as less than
two millions. The numbers of the several classes of
which the
population is mainly composed are nearly as follows:—
2 Vulgarly called
“Dumyát.”

Muslim Egyptians (felláheen, or
peasants, and townspeople) |
1,750,000 |
| Christian Egyptians (Copts) |
150,000 |
| 'Osmánlees, or Turks |
10,000 |
| Syrians |
5,000 |
| Greeks |
5,000 |
| Armenians |
2,000 |
| Jews |
5,000 |
Of the remainder (namely, Arabians, Western Arabs, Nubians,
Negro slaves,
Memlooks [or white male slaves], female white
slaves, Franks, etc.),
amounting to about 70,000, the respective
numbers are very uncertain and
variable. The Arabs of the
neighbouring deserts ought not to be included
among the population
of Egypt.
1
1 The Muslim Egyptians, Copts, Syrians, and Jews
of Egypt, with few
exceptions, speak no language but the Arabic, which
is also the language
generally used by the foreigners settled in this
country. The Nubians, among
themselves, speak their own
dialects.
Cairo, I have said, contains about 240,000 inhabitants.
2 We
should be greatly deceived if
we judged of the population of this
city from the crowds that we meet in
the principal thoroughfare-streets
and markets; in most of the bye-streets
and quarters very
few passengers are seen. Nor should we judge from the
extent
of the city and suburbs; for there are within the walls many
vacant places, some of which, during the season of the inundation,
are
lakes (as the Birket el-Ezbekeeyeh, Birket el-Feel, etc.).
The gardens,
several burial-grounds, the courts of houses, and the
mosques, also occupy
a considerable space. Of the inhabitants
of the metropolis, about 190,000
are Egyptian Muslims; about
10,000, Copts; 3,000 or 4,000, Jews; and the
rest, strangers
from various countries.
3
2 The population of Cairo has increased to this
amount, from about 200,000,
within the last three or four years. Since
the computation here stated was
made, the plague of this year [1835]
has destroyed not fewer than one-third
of its inhabitants, as before
mentioned; but this deficiency will be rapidly
supplied from the
villages.
3 About one-third of the population of the
metropolis consists of adult
males. Of this number (or 80,000) about
30,000 are merchants, petty shopkeepers,
and artisans; 20,000, domestic
servants; 15,000, common labourers,
porters, etc.: the remainder
chiefly consists of military and civil servants of
the
government.
The population of Egypt in the times of the Pharaohs was

probably about six or seven
millions.
1 The
produce of the soil
in the present age would suffice, if none were
exported, for the
maintenance of a population amounting to 4,000,000; and
if all
the soil which is capable of cultivation were sown, the produce
would be sufficient for the maintenance of 8,000,000. But this
would be the
utmost number that Egypt could maintain in years
of plentiful inundation; I
therefore compute the ancient population,
at the time when agriculture was
in a very flourishing state,
to have amounted to what I first stated; and
must suppose it to
have been scarcely more than half as numerous in the
times of
the Ptolemies, and at later periods, when a great quantity of
corn
was annually exported.
2 This calculation agrees with what Diodorus
Siculus says (in lib. i. cap. 31); namely, that Egypt contained,
in the
times of the ancient kings, 7,000,000 inhabitants,
and in his own time not
less than 3,000,000.
1 I place but little reliance on the accounts of
ancient authors on this subject.
2 It has been suggested to me that, if corn was
exported, something of
equal value was imported; and that the
exportation of corn, or anything else,
would give a stimulus to
industry and to population: but I do not know what
could be imported
that would fill up the measure of the food necessary to sustain
a
population much greater than that which would consume the corn
retained.
How different now is the state of Egypt from what it might be,
possessing a
population of scarcely more than one quarter of the
number that it might be
rendered capable of supporting! How
great a change might be effected in it
by a truly enlightened
government, by a prince who (instead of
impoverishing the
peasantry by depriving them of their lands, and by his
monopolies
of the most valuable productions of the soil; by employing
the best portion of the population to prosecute his ambitious
schemes of
foreign conquest, and another large portion in the
vain attempt to rival.
European manufactures) would give his
people a greater interest in the
cultivation of the fields, and make
Egypt what nature designed it to
be—almost exclusively an agricultural
country! Its produce of
cotton alone would more than
suffice to procure all the articles of foreign
manufacture, and all
the natural productions of foreign countries, that the
wants of its
inhabitants demand.
3
3 During the present year [1835] more than
100,000 bales of cotton (each
bale weighing a hundred-weight and
three-quarters) have been shipped at
Alexandria. The price paid for
this quantity by the merchants exceeded
£700,000. The
quantity exported last year was 34,000 bales, which is considerably
less than usual.—The policy above recommended is strongly
advocated
by Ibráheem Básha.
The desired change may now be easily effected, for since the
above was
written the Básha has been placed in a new position,
which will
enable him to acquire a greater and more honourable
fame, by the
cultivation of the arts of peace, than his conquests,
brilliant as they
have been, have hitherto procured for him. No
one who is acquainted with
the modern history of Egypt, and
more particularly with the state of the
country during the period
that intervened between the French expedition and
the accession
of Mohammad 'Alee to the office of viceroy, can doubt that
he
possesses extraordinary talents for government; and let us hope
that those talents will be rightly employed: but, as he himself
affirms,
some time will be required for effecting the necessary
changes.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER I.
PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS AND DRESS OF THE MUSLIM EGYPTIANS.
Muslims of Arabian origin have for many centuries
mainly composed
the population of Egypt: they have changed its
language,
laws, and general manners; and its metropolis they have made
the principal seat of Arabian learning and arts. To the description
of this
people, and especially of the middle and higher
classes in the Egyptian
capital, will be devoted the chief portion
of the present work. In every
point of view,
Masr (or
Cairo)
must be regarded as the first Arab city of
our age; and the
manners and customs of its inhabitants are particularly
interesting,
as they are a combination of those which prevail most
generally
in the towns of Arabia,
Syria, and the whole of Northern
Africa,
and in a great degree in Turkey. There is no other place in
which we can obtain so complete a knowledge of the most civilized
classes
of the Arabs.
From statements made in the introduction to this work, it
appears that
Muslim Egyptians (or Arab-Egyptians) compose
nearly four-fifths of the
population of the metropolis (which is
computed to amount to about
240,000), and just seven-eighths
of that of all Egypt.
The Muslim Egyptians are descended from various Arab tribes
and families
which have settled in Egypt at different periods;

mostly soon after the conquest of
this country by 'Amr, its first
Arab governor; but by intermarriages with
the Copts and others
who have become proselytes to the faith of
El-Islám, as well as by
the change from a life of wandering to
that of citizens or of agriculturists,
their personal characteristics have,
by degrees, become so
much altered, that there is a strongly marked
difference between
them and the natives of Arabia. Yet they are to be
regarded as
not less genuine Arabs than the townspeople of Arabia
itself,
among whom has long and very generally prevailed a custom of
keeping Abyssinian female slaves, either instead of marrying their
own
countrywomen, or (as is commonly the case with the opulent)
in addition to
their Arab wives; so that they bear almost as
strong a resemblance to the
Abyssinians as to the Bedawees, or
Arabs of the Desert. The term
“Arab,”
1 it should here be remarked,
is now used wherever
the Arabic language is spoken,
only to designate the Bedawees collectively.
In speaking of a
tribe, or of a small number of those people, the word
“'Orbán”
is also used; and a single
individual is called “Bedawee.”
2 In
the metropolis and other towns of
Egypt, the distinction of tribes
is almost wholly lost; but it is preserved
among the peasants,
who have retained many Bedawee customs, of which I
shall have
to speak. The native Muslim inhabitants of
Cairo commonly
call
themselves “El-Masreeyeen,”
“Owlád-
Masr” (or
“Ahl-
Masr”),
and
“Owlád-el-Beled,” which signify people of
Masr,
children of
Masr, and children of the town; the singular forms of these
appellations
are “Masree,”
“Ibn-
Masr,” and “Ibn-el-Beled.”
3 Of
these three
terms, the last is most common in the town itself.
The country people are
called “El-Felláheen” (or the
Agriculturists),
in the singular
“Felláh.”
4 The Turks often apply this
term to
the Egyptians in general in an abusive sense, as meaning
“the
boors,” or “the clowns;” and improperly
stigmatize them
with the appellation of
“Ahl-Far'oon,”
5 or “the people of
Pharaoh.”
1 This term was formerly used to designate the
Arabian townspeople and villagers,
while the Arabs who dwelt in the Desert were called “Aaráb,”
or
“Aarábees.” The Arabs dwelling in
house now terms themselves
“Owlád-el-‘Arab,”
or Sons
of the Arabs.
2 Feminine, “Bedaweeyeh.”
3 In the feminine,
“Masreeyeh,” “Bint-Masr,” and
“Bint-el-Beled.”
5 Thus commonly pronounced for
“Fir'own.”
In general, the Muslim Egyptians attain the height of about
five feet eight,
or five feet nine inches. Most of the children
under nine or ten years of
age have spare limbs and a distended

abdomen; but, as they grow up,
their forms rapidly improve. In
mature age most of them are remarkably well
proportioned. The
men, muscular and robust; the women, very beautifully
formed,
and plump; and neither sex is too fat. I have never seen
corpulent
persons among them, excepting a few in the metropolis
and
other towns, rendered so by a life of inactivity. In
Cairo,
and throughout
the northern provinces, those who have not been
much exposed to the sun,
have a yellowish, but very clear complexion,
and soft skin; the rest are of
a considerably darker and
coarser complexion. The people of Middle Egypt
are of a more
tawny colour, and those of the more southern provinces are of
a
deep bronze or brown complexion—darkest towards
Nubia,
where
the climate is hottest. In general, the countenance of the
Muslim
Egyptian (I here speak of the
men) is of a
fine oval form; the
forehead, of moderate size, seldom high, but generally
prominent;
the eyes are deep-sunk, black, and brilliant; the nose is
straight,
but rather thick; the mouth well formed; the lips are rather
full
than otherwise; the teeth particularly beautiful;
1 the beard is
commonly black and curly, but scanty. I have seen very few
individuals of
this race with grey eyes, or rather, few persons
supposed to be of this
race; for I am inclined to think them the
offspring of Arab women by Turks
or other foreigners. The
Felláheen, from constant exposure to
the sun, have a habit of half
shutting their eyes; this is also
characteristic of the Bedawees.
Great numbers of the Egyptians are blind in
one or both eyes.
They generally shave that part of the cheek which is
above the
lower jaw, and likewise a small space under the lower lip,
leaving,
however, the hairs which grow in the middle under the mouth;
or, instead of shaving these parts, they pluck out the hair. They
also
shave a part of the beard under the chin. Very few shave
the rest of their
beards,
2 and none
their moustaches. The former
they suffer to grow to the length of about a
hand's breadth below
the chin (such, at least, is the general rule, and
such was the custom
of the Prophet); and their moustaches they do not allow
to
1 Tooth-ache is, however, a very common disorder
in Egypt, as it was in
ancient times. This, at least, was probably the
case, as Herodotus (lib, ii.,
cap.84) mentions dentists among the
classes of Egyptian physicians. It is,
of course, most prevalent among
the higher orders.
2 A few of the servants, and some others, shave
their beards. The respect
which Orientals in general pay to the beard
has often been remarked. They
swear by it, and say that a man disgraces
it by an evil action. The punishment
recorded in 2 Samuel, ch. x., v.
4, has frequently been practised in
modern times, but not so often as
the shaving of the whole of the beard.

become so long as to incommode them
in eating and drinking.
The practice of dyeing the beard is not common, for
a grey beard
is much respected. The Egyptians shave all the rest of the
hair,
or leave only a small tuft (called “shoosheh”)
upon the crown of
the head.
1 This last custom (which is almost universal among
them), I have been told, originated in the fear that if the Muslim
should
fall into the hands of an infidel and be slain, the latter
might cut off
the head of his victim, and finding no hair by which
to hold it, put his
impure hand into the mouth in order to carry
it; for the beard might not be
sufficiently long.
2 With
the like
view of avoiding impurity, the Egyptians observe other
customs
which need not here be described.
3 Many men of the lower
orders, and
some others, make blue marks upon their arms, and
sometimes upon the hands
and chest, as the women, in speaking
of whom this operation will be
described.
1 The Muslims hold it to be inconsistent with
the honour that is due to
everything that has appertained to the human
body to leave upon the ground
the shavings or clippings of hair the
parings of nails, etc., which, therefore,
they generally bury in the
earth.
2 Persons of literary and religious professions
generally disapprove of the
shoosheh.
3 They are mentioned in the
“Mishcát-ul-Masábíh,”
vol. ii., p.359, and are
observed by both sexes.
The dress of the men of the middle and higher classes consists
of the
following articles.
4
First, a pair of full drawers
5 of linen
or cotton, tied round the body by a running string or
band,
6 the
ends of which are embroidered with coloured silks, though concealed
by the
outer dress. The drawers descend a little below
the knees, or to the
ankles; but many of the Arabs will not wear
long drawers, because
prohibited by the Prophet. Next is worn
a shirt, with very full sleeves,
reaching to the wrist; it is made of
linen, of a loose, open texture, or of
cotton stuff, or of muslin or
silk, or of a mixture of silk and cotton, in
stripes, but all white.
7 Over this, in winter, or in cool weather, most persons wear a
“sudeyree,” which is a short vest of cloth, or of striped
coloured
silk and cotton, without sleeves. Over the shirt and sudeyree,
or
the former alone, is worn a long vest of striped silk and cotton
8
(called “kaftán,” or more commonly
“kuftán”), descending to
4 The fashion of their dress remains almost the
same during the lapse of centuries.
6 Called “dikkeh,” or
“tikkeh.”
7 The Prophet forbade men to wear silk clothing,
but allowed women to do
so. The prohibition is, however, attended to by
very few modern Muslims,
excepting the Wahhábees.
8 The stripes are seldom plain; they are
generally figured or flowered.


MEN OF THE MIDDLE AND HIGHER CLASSES.

the ankles, with long sleeves
extending a few inches beyond the
fingers' ends, but divided from a point a
little above the wrist, or
about the middle of the fore-arm; so that the
hand is generally
exposed, though it may be concealed by the sleeve when
necessary,
for it is customary to cover the hands in the presence of a
person of high rank. Round this vest is wound the girdle, which
is a
coloured shawl, or a long piece of white figured muslin. The
ordinary outer
robe is a long cloth coat, of any colour (called by
the Turks
“jubbeh,” but by the Egyptians
“gibbeh”), the sleeves
of which reach not quite to
the wrist.
1 Some
persons also wear
a “beneesh,” or
“benish,” which is a robe of cloth, with long
sleeves, like those of the kauftán, but more ample;
2 it is properly
a
robe of ceremony, and should be worn over the other cloth coat;
but many
persons wear it
instead of the gibbeh. Another robe,
called “farageeyeh,” nearly resembles the beneesh. It has
very
long sleeves, but these are not slit, and it is chiefly worn by
men
of the learned professions. In cold or cool weather, a kind of
black woollen cloak, called “'abáyeh,” is
commonly worn. Sometimes
this is drawn over the head. In winter also many
persons
wrap a muslin or other shawl (such as they use for a turban)
about
the head and shoulders. The head-dress consists, first, of a
small,
close-fitting, cotton cap,
3 which is often changed; next, a
“tarboosh,”
which is a red cloth cap, also fitting
closely to the head,
with a tassel of dark blue silk at the crown; lastly,
a long piece
of white muslin, generally figured, or a Kashmeer shawl, which
is
wound round the tarboosh. Thus is formed the turban. The
Kashmeer
shawl is seldom worn excepting in cool weather. Some
persons wear two or
three tarbooshes, one over another. A
“shereef” (or
descendant of the Prophet) wears a green turban,
or is privileged to do so;
but no other person; and it is not
common for any but a shereef to wear a
bright green dress.
Stockings are not in use; but some few persons, in cold
weather,
wear woollen or cotton socks. The shoes are of thick red
morocco,
pointed and turning up at the toes. Some persons also
wear
inner shoes of soft yellow morocco, and with soles of the
same. The outer
shoes are taken off on stepping upon a carpet
or mat; but not the inner,
for this reason—the former are often
worn turned down at the
heel.
1 See the foremost figure in the accompanying
engraving.
2 See the figure to the left in the same
engraving.
3 Called
“tákeeyeh,” or
“'arakeeyeh.”
On the little finger of the right hand is worn a seal-ring,
4 which
4
“Khátim.”—It is allowable to wear it on a finger of the left hand.

is generally of silver, with a
carnelion, or other stone, upon which
is engraved the wearer's name: the
name is usually accompanied
by the words “his
servant” (signifying “the servant, or worshipper,
of
God”), and often by other words expressive of the person's
trust
in God, etc.
1 The
prophet disapproved of gold;
therefore few Muslims wear gold rings; but the
women have
various ornaments (rings, bracelets, etc.) of that precious
metal.
The seal-ring is used for signing letters and other writings,
and
its impression is considered more valid than the sign-manual.
2
A little ink is dabbed upon it with one of the fingers, and it is
pressed upon the paper, the person who uses it having first
touched his
tongue with another finger and moistened the place
in the paper which is to
be stamped. Almost every person who
can afford it has a seal-ring, even
though he be a servant. The
regular scribes, literary men, and many others,
wear a silver,
brass, or copper “dawáyeh,”
which is a case with receptacles for
ink and pens, stuck in the girdle.
3 Some have, in the
place of
this, or in addition to it, a case-knife or a dagger.
1 See St. John's Gospel iii. 33; and Exodus
xxxix. 30.
2 Therefore, giving the ring to another person
is the utmost mark of confidence.—
See Genesis xli. 42.
3 This is a very ancient custom.—See
Ezekiel ix. 2, 3, II. The dawáyeh is
represented in a cut in
Chapter IX.
The Egyptian generally takes his pipe with him wherever he
goes (unless it
be to the mosque), or has a servant to carry it,
though it is not a common
custom to smoke while riding or walking.
The tobacco-purse he crams into
his bosom, the kuftán
being large, and lapping over in front. A
handkerchief, embroidered
with coloured silks and gold, and neatly folded,
is also
placed in the bosom. Many persons of the middle orders, who
wish to avoid being thought rich, conceal such a dress as I have
described
by a long black gown of cotton, similar to the gown
worn by most persons of
the lower classes.
The costume of the men of the lower orders is very simple.
These, if not of
the very poorest class, wear a pair of drawers, and
a long and full shirt
or gown of blue linen or cotton, or of brown
woollen stuff (the former
called “'eree,” and the latter
“zaaboot”),
open from the neck nearly to the waist,
and having wide sleeves.
4
Over this some wear a white or red woollen girdle. Their turban
is
generally composed of a white, red, or yellow woollen shawl,
or of a piece
of coarse cotton or muslin wound round a tarboosh,
under which is a white
or brown felt cap; but many are so poor

as to have no other cap than the
latter—no turban, nor even
drawers nor shoes, but only the blue
or brown shirt, or merely a
few rags; while many, on the other hand, wear a
sudeyree under
the blue shirt; and some, particularly servants in the
houses of
great men, wear a white shirt, a sudeyree, and a
kuftán or gibbeh,
or both, and the blue shirt over all. The full
sleeves of this
shirt are sometimes drawn up by means of cords, which
pass
round each shoulder and cross behind, where they are tied in a

FELLAHEEN.
knot. This custom is adopted by servants (particularly grooms)
who have cords of crimson or dark-blue silk for this purpose. In
cold
weather many persons of the lower classes wear an 'abáyeh,
like
that before described, but coarser, and sometimes (instead of
being black)
having broad stripes, brown and white, or blue and
white, but the latter
rarely. Another kind of cloak, more full
than the 'abáyeh, of
black or deep-blue woollen stuff, is also very
commonly worn; it is called
“diffeeyeh.”
1 The shoes are of
red or yellow morocco, or of
sheep-skin.
4 The zaaboot is mostly worn in the winter.
1 A kind of blue and white plaid (called
“miláyeh” is also worn by some
men,
but more commonly by women, in the account of whose dress it will be
further described: the men throw it over the shoulders, or wrap it about
the
body.

Several different forms of turbans are represented in some of
the engravings
which illustrate this work. The Muslims are distinguished
by the colours of
their turbans from the Copts and the
Jews, who (as well as other subjects
of the Turkish Sultán who
are not Muslims) wear black, blue,
grey, or light-brown turbans,
and generally dull-coloured dresses. The
distinction of sects,
families, dynasties, etc., among the Muslim Arabs, by
the colour
of the turban and other articles of dress, is of very early
origin.
When the Imáam Ibráheem Ibn-Mohammad,
asserting his pretensions
to the dignity of Khaleefeh,
1 was put to death by
the Umawee
Khaleefeh Marwán, many persons of the family of
El-'Abbás
assumed black clothing in testimony of their sorrow
for his fate;
and hence the black dress and turban (which latter is
now
characteristic, almost solely, of Christian and Jewish tributaries
to
the Osmánlee, or Turkish, Sultán) became the
distinguishing
costume of the Abbásee Khaleefehs, and of their
officers. When
an officer under this dynasty was disgraced, he was made to
wear
a white dress. White was adopted by the false prophet
El-Mukanna',
to distinguish his party from the 'Abbásees; and
the
Fawátim of Egypt (or Khaleefehs of the race of
Fátimeh), as
rivals of the 'Abbásees, wore a white
costume. El-Melik El-Ashraf
Shaabán, a Sultán of
Egypt (who reigned from the year of
the Flight 764 to 778, or A.D. 1362 to
1376), was the first who
ordered the “shereefs” to
distinguish themselves by the green
turban and dress. Some darweeshes of
the sect of the Rifá'ees,
and a few, but very few, other
Muslims, wear a turban of black
woollen stuff, or of a very deep
olive-coloured (almost black)
muslin; but that of the Copts, Jews, etc., is
generally of black
or blue muslin, or linen. There are not many different
forms
of turbans now worn in Egypt: that worn by most of the
servants is
very formal. The kind common among the middle
and higher classes of the
tradesmen and other citizens of the
metropolis and large towns is also very
formal, but less so than
that just before alluded to. The Turkish turban
worn in Egypt
is of a more elegant mode. The Syrian is distinguished by
its
width. The 'Ulama, and men of religion and letters in general,
used to wear, as some do still, one particularly wide and formal,
called a
“mukleh.” The turban is much respected. In the
houses
of the more wealthy classes, there is usually a chair on
which it is placed
at night. This is often sent with the furniture
1 Commonly written by English authors
“Caliph,” or “Khalif.”

of a bride, as it is common for a
lady to have one upon which to
place her head-dress. This kind of chair is
never used for any
other purpose. As an instance of the respect paid to the
turban,
one of my friends mentioned to me that an 'álim
1 being thrown
off
his donkey in a street of this city, his mukleh fell off, and
rolled along
several yards, whereupon the passengers ran after it,
crying,
“Lift up the crown of El-Islám!” while the poor
'álim,
whom no one came to assist, called out in anger,
“Lift up the
sheykh
2 of
El-Islám!”
1 This appellation (of which
“ulama” is the plural) signifies a man of
science
or learning.
2 “Sheykh” here signifies
master, or doctor.
The general form and features of the
women must now
be
described. From the age of about fourteen to that of eighteen
or
twenty, they are generally models of beauty in body and limbs;
and in
countenance most of them are pleasing, and many exceedingly
lovely: but
soon after they have attained their perfect
growth, they rapidly decline;
the bosom early loses all its beauty,
acquiring, from the relaxing nature
of the climate, an excessive
length and flatness in its forms, even while
the face retains its full
charms; and though, in most other respects, time
does not commonly
so soon nor so much deform them, at the age of forty
it
renders many, who in earlier years possessed considerable
attractions,
absolutely ugly. In the Egyptian females, the forms of
womanhood begin to develop themselves about the ninth or tenth
year: at the
age of fifteen or sixteen they generally attain their
highest degree of
perfection. With regard to their complexions,
the same remarks apply to
them as to the men, with only this
difference, that their faces, being
generally veiled when they go
abroad, are not quite so much tanned as those
of the men. They
are characterized, like the men, by a fine oval
countenance;
though, in some instances, it is rather broad. The eyes, with
very
few exceptions, are black, large, and of a long almond-form, with
long and beautiful lashes and an exquisitely soft, bewitching
expression:
eyes more beautiful can hardly be conceived: their
charming effect is much
heightened by the concealment of the
other features (however pleasing the
latter may be), and is
rendered still more striking by a practice universal
among the
females of the higher and middle classes, and very common
among
those of the lower orders, which is that of blackening the edge
of
the eyelids, both above and below the eye, with a black powder
called “kohl.” This is a collyrium commonly composed of
the

smoke-black which is produced by
burning a kind of “liban”—
an aromatic
resin—a species of frankincense, used, I am told, in
preference
to the better kind of frankincense, as being cheaper,
and equally good for
this purpose. Kohl is also prepared of the
smoke-black produced by burning
the shells of almonds. These
two kinds, though believed to be beneficial to
the eyes, are used
merely for ornament; but there are several kinds used
for their

AN EYE ORNAMENTED WITH KOHL.
real or supposed medical properties; particularly the powder of
several kinds of lead ore, to which are often added sarcocolla,
long
pepper, sugar-candy, fine dust of a Venetian sequin, and
sometimes powdered
pearls. Antimony, it is said, was formerly
used for painting the edges of
the eyelids. The kohl is applied
with a small probe, of wood, ivory, or
silver, tapering towards the
end, but blunt. This is moistened, sometimes
with rose water,
then dipped in the powder, and drawn along the edges of the

MUK-HUL'AHS AND MIRWEDS. These are represented on scales of
one-third, and a quarter, of the real size.
eyelids: it is called “mirwed;” and the glass
vessel in which the
kohl is kept “muk-hul'ah.” The
custom of thus ornamenting the
eyes prevailed among both sexes in Egypt in
very ancient times:
this is shown by the sculptures and paintings in the
temples and
tombs of this country; and kohl vessels, with the probes, and
even
with remains of the black powder, have often been found in the
ancient tombs. I have two in my possession. But in many cases

the ancient mode of ornamenting
with the kohl was a little
different from the modern, as shown by the
subjoined sketch: I
have, however, seen this ancient mode practised in the
present
day in the neighbourhood of
Cairo, though I only remember to
have noticed it in two instances. The same custom existed
among the ancient
Greek ladies, and among the Jewish women

ANCIENT VESSEL AND PROBE FOR KOHL.
in early times.
1 The eyes of the Egyptian women are generally
the most beautiful of
their features. Countenances altogether
handsome are far less common among
this race than handsome
figures; but I have seen among them faces
distinguished by a
style of beauty possessing such sweetness of expression,
that they
have struck me as exhibiting the perfection of female
loveliness,
and impressed me with the idea (perhaps not false) that their

AN EYE AND EYEBROW ORNAMENTED WITH KOHL, AS REPRESENTED IN
ANCIENT PAINTINGS.
equals could not be found in any other country. With such eyes
as
many of them have, the face must be handsome, if its other
features be but
moderately well formed.
2 The nose is generally
straight; the lips are mostly rather fuller
than those of the men,
but not in the least degree partaking of the negro
character. The
hair is of that deep, glossy black, which best suits all but
fair
complexions: in some instances it is rather coarse and crisp, but
never woolly.
1 See 2 Kings ix. 30 (where, in our common
version, we find the words,
“painted her face”
for “painted her eyes”), and Ezekiel xxiii. 40.
2 Scissors are often used to reduce the width of
the eye-brows, and to give
them a more arched form.
The females of the higher and middle classes, and many of the

poorer women, stain certain parts
of their hands and feet (which
are, with very few exceptions, beautifully
formed) with the leaves
of the henna tree,
1 which impart a yellowish red, or deep
orange
colour. Many thus dye only the nails of the fingers and toes;
others extend the dye as high as the first joint of each finger and
toe;
some also make a stripe along the next row of joints; and
there are several
other fanciful modes of applying the henna; but
the most common practice is
to dye the tips of the fingers and

HANDS AND FEET STAINED WITH HENNA.
toes as high as the first joint, and the whole of the inside of
the
hand and the sole of the foot;
2 adding, though not always, the
stripe above
mentioned along the middle joints of the fingers, and
a similar stripe a
little above the toes. The henna is prepared
for this use merely by being
powdered and mixed with a little
water, so as to form a paste. Some of this
paste being spread in
the palm of the hand, and on other parts of it which
are to be
dyed, and the fingers being doubled, and their extremities
inserted
1
Lawsonia inermis; also called “Egyptian
privet.”
2 The application of this dye to the palms of
the hands and the soles of the
feet is said to have an agreeable effect
upon the skin; particularly to prevent
its being too tender and
sensitive.


A LADY IN THE DRESS WORN IN PRIVATE.

into the paste in the palm, the
whole hand is tightly bound with
linen, and remains thus during a whole
night. In a similar manner
it is applied to the feet. The colour does not
disappear until
after many days: it is generally renewed after about a
fortnight
or three weeks. This custom prevails not only in Egypt, but
in
several other countries of the East, which are supplied with henna
from the banks of the Nile. To the nails the henna imparts a
more bright,
clear, and permanent colour than to the skin.
When this dye alone is
applied to the nails, or to a larger portion
of the fingers and toes, it
may, with some reason, be regarded as
an embellishment, for it makes the
general complexion of the
hand and foot appear more delicate; but many
ladies stain their
hands in a manner much less agreeable to our taste: by
applying,
immediately after the removal of the paste of henna, another
paste,
composed of quick-lime, common smoke-black, and linseed-oil,
they convert the tint of the henna to a black, or to a blackish
olive hue.
Ladies in Egypt are often seen with their nails stained
with this colour,
or with their fingers of the same dark hue from
the extremity to the first
joint, red from the first to the second
joint, and of the former colour
from the second to the third joint,
with the palm also stained in a similar
manner, having a broad,
dark stripe across the middle, and the rest left
red; the thumb
dark from the extremity to the first joint, and red from the
first
to the second joint. Some, after a more simple fashion, blacken
the ends of the fingers and the whole of the inside of the hand.
Among the females of the lower orders, in the country-towns
and villages of
Egypt, and among the same classes in the metropolis,
but in a less degree,
prevails a custom somewhat similar to
that above described: it consists in
making indelible marks of a
blue or greenish hue upon the face and other
parts, or, at least,
upon the front of the chin, and upon the back of the
right hand,
and often also upon the left hand, the right arm, or both
arms,
the feet, the middle of the bosom, and the forehead: the most
common of these marks made upon the chin and hands are here
represented.
The operation is performed with several needles
(generally seven) tied
together: with these the skin is pricked in
the desired pattern: some
smoke-black (of wood or oil), mixed
with milk from the breast of a woman,
is then rubbed in; and
about a week after, before the skin has healed, a
paste of the
pounded fresh leaves of white beet or clover is applied, and
gives
a blue or greenish colour to the marks: or, to produce the same
effect in a more simple manner, some indigo is rubbed into the

punctures, instead of the
smoke-black, etc. It is generally performed

A TATTOOED GIRL.

SPECIMENS OF TATTOOING ON THE CHIN.

TATTOOED HANDS AND FOOT.
at the age of about five or six years, and by gipsy-women.
The
term applied to it is “dakk.” Most of the females of
the

higher parts of
Upper Egypt, who
are of a very dark complexion,
tattoo their lips instead of the parts
above-mentioned; thus converting
their natural colour to a dull, bluish
hue, which, to the
eye of a stranger, is extremely displeasing.
1
1 The depilatory most commonly used by the
Egyptian women is a kind of
resin, called libán
shámee, applied in a melted state: but this, they pretend,
is not always necessary: by applying the blood of a bat to the skin of a
newly-born
female infant, on the parts where they wish no hair to grow,
they assert
that they accomplish this desire. A female upon whom this
application has
been made is termed “muwatwatah”;
from “watwát,” a bat. Some women
pluck
out the hair after merely rubbing the part with the ashes of
charcoal.
Another characteristic of the Egyptian women that should be
here mentioned
is their upright carriage and gait. This is most
remarkable in the female
peasantry, owing, doubtless, in a great
measure, to their habit of bearing
a heavy earthen water-vessel,
and other burthens, upon the head.
The dress of the women of the middle and higher orders is
handsome and
elegant. Their shirt is very full, like that of the
men—but
rather shorter—reaching not quite to the knees: it is
also,
generally, of the same kind of material as the men's shirt, or of
coloured
crape—sometimes black. A pair of very wide trousers
(called
“shintiyán”), of a coloured striped stuff of
silk and
cotton, or of printed, or worked, or plain white muslin, is
tied
round the hips, under the shirt, with a dikkeh: its lower
extremities
are drawn up and tied just below the knee with running
strings; but it is sufficiently long to hang down to the feet, or
almost to
the ground, when attached in this manner. Over the
shirt and
shintiyán is worn a long vest (called “yelek”),
of the
same material as the latter: it nearly resembles the
kuftán of the
men; but is more tight to the body and arms: the
sleeves also
are longer; and it is made to button down the front, from
the
bosom to a little below the girdle, instead of lapping over: it is
open, likewise, on each side, from the height of the hip, downwards.
In
general the yelek is cut in such a manner as to leave
half of the bosom
uncovered, except by the shirt; but many
ladies have it made more ample at
that part: and, according to
the most approved fashion, it should be of a
sufficient length to
reach to the ground, or should exceed that length by
two of
three inches, or more. A short vest (called
“'anter'ee”), reaching
only a little below the waist,
and exactly resembling a yelek
of which the lower part has been cut off, is
sometimes worn
instead of the latter. A square shawl, or an embroidered
kerchief,

doubled diagonally, is put loosely
round the waist as a girdle;
the two corners that are folded together
hanging down behind.
Over the yelek is worn a gibbeh of cloth, or velvet,
or silk, usually
embroidered with gold or with coloured silk: it differs in
form
from the gibbeh of the men chiefly in being not so wide;

A LADY ADORNED WITH THE KURS AND SAFA, ETC. (The Hand is
partially stained with Henna.)
particularly in the fore part; and is of the same length as the
yelek. Instead of this, a jacket (called “saltah”),
generally of
cloth or velvet, and embroidered in the same manner as
the
gibbeh, is often worn. The head-dress consists of a tákeeyeh
and
tarboosh, with a square kerchief (called
“faroodeeyeh”) of printed

or painted muslin, or one of crape,
wound tightly round, composing
what is called a
“rabtah.” Two or more such kerchiefs were
commonly
used, a short time since, and are still sometimes, to
form the ladies'
turban, but always wound in a high, flat shape,
very different from that of
the turban of the men. A kind of
crown, called
“kurs,” and other ornaments, are attached to the
ladies' head-dress: descriptions and engravings of these and
other
ornaments of the women of Egypt will be found in the
Appendix to this work.
A long piece of white muslin embroidered
at each end with coloured silks
and gold, or of coloured crape
ornamented with gold thread, etc., and
spangles, rests upon the
head, and hangs down behind, nearly or quite to
the ground: this
is called “tarhah”—it is
the head-veil: the face-veil I shall presently
describe. The hair,
excepting over the forehead and
temples, is divided into numerous braids or
plaits, generally from
eleven to twenty-five in number, but always of an
uneven number:
these hang down the back. To each
braid of hair are usually
added three black silk cords, with little
ornaments of gold, etc.,
attached to them. For a description of these,
which are called
“safa,” I refer to the Appendix.
Over the forehead the hair is
cut rather short; but two full locks hang
down on each side
of the face: these are often curled in ringlets, and
sometimes
plaited.
1 Few of the ladies of Egypt wear stockings or socks,
but many of
them wear “
mezz” (or inner shoes),
of yellow or
red morocco, sometimes embroidered with gold: over these,
whenever they step off the matted or carpeted part of the floor,
they put
on “báboog” (or slippers) of yellow morocco,
with high,
pointed toes; or use high wooden clogs or pattens,
generally
from four to nine inches in height, and usually ornamented
with
mother-of-pearl, or silver, etc. These are always used in the
bath
by men and women; but not by many ladies at home: some ladies
wear them merely to keep their skirts from trailing on the ground:
others,
to make themselves appear tall.—Such is the dress which
is worn
by the Egyptian ladies in the house.
1 Egyptian women swear by the side-lock (as men
do by the beard), generally
holding it when they utter the oath,
“Wa-hayát maksoosee!”
The riding or walking attire is called “tezyeereh.”
Whenever
a lady leaves the house, she wears, in addition to what has
been
above described, first a large, loose gown (called
“tób,” or
“sebleh”),
the sleeves of which are nearly equal in width to the
whole length of the
gown:
2 it is of
silk; generally of a pink, or
2 This is similar in form to the tób
of women of the lower orders.

rose, or violet colour. Next is put
on the “burko',” or face-veil,
which is a long strip
of white muslin, concealing the whole of the
face except the eyes, and
reaching nearly to the feet. It is suspended
at the top by a narrow band,
which passes up the forehead,
and which is sewed, as are also the two upper
corners of the veil,
to a band that is tied round the head. The lady then
covers
herself with a “habarah,” which, for a married
lady, is composed
of two breadths of glossy, black silk, each ell-wide, and three

LADY ATTIRED FOR RIDING OR WALKING.
yards long: these are sewed together, at or near the selvages
(according to the height of the person); the seam running horizontally,
with respect to the manner in which it is worn: a piece
of narrow black
riband is sewed inside the upper part, about six
inches from the edge, to
tie round the head. This covering is
always worn in the manner shown by the
accompanying sketch.
The unmarried ladies wear a habarah of white silk, or
a shawl.

Some females of the middle classes,
who cannot afford to purchase
a habarah, wear instead of it an
“eezár”; which is a piece of
white calico,
of the same form and size as the former, and is worn
in the same manner. On
the feet are worn short boots or
socks (called
“khuff”), of yellow morocco, and over these the
“báboog.”
This dress, though chiefly designed for females of the higher
classes, who
are seldom seen in public on foot, is worn by many
women who cannot often
afford so far to imitate their superiors
as to hire an ass to carry them.
It is extremely inconvenient as
a walking attire. Viewing it as a disguise
for whatever is attractive
or graceful in the person and adornments of the
wearer, we should
not find fault with it for being itself deficient in
grace: we must
remark, however, that, in one respect, it fails in
accomplishing its
main purpose; displaying the eyes, which are almost
always beautiful;
making them to appear still more so by concealing the
other
features, which are seldom of equal beauty; and often causing
the
stranger to imagine a defective face perfectly charming. The
veil
is of very remote antiquity;
1 but, from the sculptures and
paintings of the ancient
Egyptians, it seems not to have been
worn by the females of that nation.
1 See Genesis xxiv. 65; and Isaiah iii. 23. See
also I Corinthians xi. 10,
and a marginal note on that verse.
The dress of a large proportion of those women of the lower
orders who are
not of the poorest class consists of a pair of
trousers or drawers (similar
in form to the shintiyán of the ladies,
but generally of plain
white cotton or linen), a blue linen or
cotton shirt (not quite so full as
that of the men), a burko' of a
kind of coarse black crape,
2 and a dark blue
tarhah of muslin or
linen. Some wear over the shirt, or instead of the
latter, a linen
tób, of the same form as that of the ladies. The
sleeves of this
are often turned up over the head; either to prevent their
being
incommodious, or to supply the place of a tarhah. In addition
to
these articles of dress, many women who are not of the very
poor classes
wear, as a covering, a kind of plaid, similar in form
to the habarah,
composed of two pieces of cotton, woven in small
chequers of blue and
white, or cross stripes, with a mixture of
red at each end. It is called
“miláyeh:”
3 in general it is worn
in the same
manner as the habarah; but sometimes like the
2 Some of those who are descended from the
Prophet wear a green burko'.

tarhah.
1 The upper part of the black burko' is
often ornamented
with false pearls, small gold coins, and other little flat
ornaments
of the same metal (called “bark”);
sometimes with a coral bead,
and a gold coin beneath; also with small coins
of base silver;
and more commonly with a pair of chain tassels, of brass
or
silver (called “'oyoon”), attached to the corners.
A square

FELLAH WOMEN.
black silk kerchief (called “'asbeh”), with a
border of red and
yellow, is bound round the head, doubled diagonally, and
tied
with a single knot behind; or, instead of this, the tarboosh and

faroodeeyeh are worn, though by
very few women of the lower
classes. The best kind of shoes worn by the
females of the lower
orders are of red morocco, turned up, but round at the
toes.
The burko' and shoes are most common in
Cairo, and are also
worn
by many of the women throughout
Lower Egypt; but in
Upper Egypt, the burko'
is very seldom seen, and shoes are
scarcely less uncommon. To supply the
place of the former,
when necessary, a portion of the tarhah is drawn
before the face,

ORNAMENTED BLACK VEILS. Only one of these (that to the right) is
represented in its whole length.
so as to conceal nearly all the countenance excepting one eye.
Many of the women of the lower orders, even in the metropolis,
never
conceal their faces. Throughout the greater part of Egypt
the most common
dress of the women merely consists of the blue
shirt, or tób,
and tarhah. In the southern parts of Upper
Egypt, chiefly above Akhmeem,
most of the women envelop
themselves in a large piece of dark brown woollen
stuff (called a
“hulaleeyeh”), wrapping it round the
body, and attaching the

upper parts together over each
shoulder;
1 and a
piece of the
same they use as a tarhah. This dull dress, though
picturesque,
is almost as disguising as the blue tinge which, as I have
before
mentioned, the women in these parts of Egypt impart to their
lips. Most of the women of the lower orders wear a variety of
trumpery
ornaments, such as ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, etc.,
and sometimes a
nose-ring. Descriptions and engravings of some
of these ornaments will be
given in the Appendix.
1 There is a superior kind of
miláyeh, of silk, and of various colours; but
this is now
seldom worn. The two pieces which compose the miláyeh are
sewed together, like those which compose the habarah.
1 The classical reader will recognise, in this
picturesque garment, an article
of ancient Greek and Roman female
attire.
The women of Egypt deem it more incumbent upon them to
cover the upper and
back part of the head than the face; and
more requisite to conceal the face
than most other parts of the
person. I have often seen, in this country,
women but half
covered with miserable rags; and several times, females in
the
prime of womanhood, and others in more advanced age, with
nothing
on the body but a narrow strip of rag bound round the
hips.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER II.
INFANCY AND EARLY EDUCATION.
In the rearing and general treatment of their
children, the
Muslims are chiefly guided by the directions of their
Prophet,
and other religious institutors. One of the first duties
required
to be performed on the birth of a child is to pronounce the
adán
(or call to prayer) in the infant's right ear; and this
should be
done by a male. Some persons also pronounce the ikámeh
(which
is nearly the same as the adán) in the left ear. The
object of
each of these ceremonies is to preserve the infant from the
influence of the ginn, or genii. Another custom, observed with
the same
view, is to say, “In the name of the Prophet and of
his
cousin
2
'Alee!”
2 Literally, “the son of his paternal
uncle.”
It was a custom very common in Egypt, as in other Muslim
countries, to
consult an astrologer previously to giving a name to
a child, and to be
guided by his choice; but very few persons

now conform with this old usage:
the father makes choice of a
name for his son, and confers it without any
ceremony; a daughter
is generally named by her mother. Boys are often named
after
the Prophet (Mohammad, Ahmad, or Mustaf'a), or some of the
members of his family ('Alee, Hasan, Hoseyn, etc.), or his eminent
companions ('Omar, 'Osmán, 'Amr, etc.), or some of the prophets
and patriarchs of early times (as Ibráheem, Is-hák,
Isma'eel,
Yaakoob, Moosa, Dáood, Suleymán, etc.), or
receive a name
signifying “Servant of God,”
“Servant of the Compassionate,”
“Servant
of the Powerful,” etc. ('Abd-Allah, 'Abd-er-Rahmán,
'Abd-el-Kádir). Girls are mostly named after the wives or the
favourite daughter of the Arabian Prophet, or after others of his
family
(as Khadeegeh, 'A'ïsheh, A'm'neh, Fát'meh, Zeyneb),
or
are distinguished by a name implying that they are
“beloved,”
“blessed,”
“precious,” etc. (Mahboobeh, Mebrookeh, Nefeeseh,
etc.) or the name of a flower, or of some other pleasing object.
1
1 In Cairo, it is the fashion to change the
first five female names here mentioned,
and the last, into Khaddoogeh,
'Eiyoosheh, Ammooneh, Fattoomeh,
Zennoobeh, and Neffooseh; and some
other names are changed to the same
“measure” as
these; which measure implies, in these cases, a superior degree
of
dignity.
As the proper name does not necessarily or generally descend
from parent to
child, persons are usually distinguished by one or
more surnames, of the
following kinds:—a surname of relationship;
as
“Aboo-'Alee”
2 (Father of 'Alee), “Ibn-Ahmad”
(Son
of Ahmad), etc.:—a surname of honour, or a nickname;
as
“Noor-ed-Deen” (The Light of the Religion),
“Et-Taweel”
(The Tall), etc.:—an
appellation relating to country, birth-place,
origin, family, sect, trade
or occupation, etc.; as “Er-Rasheedee”
(of the town
of Rasheed), “Es-Sabbágh” (The Dyer),
“Et-Tágir”
(The Merchant). The second kind
of surname, and that
relating to country, etc., are often inherited; thus
becoming
family-names. Each kind of surname is now generally placed
after the proper name.
2 On an improper use of this kind of surname,
see a note towards the close
of Chapter IV.
The dress of the children of the middle and higher orders is
similar to that
of the parents, but generally slovenly. The children
of the poor are either
clad in a shirt and a cotton skull-cap
or a tarboosh, or (as is mostly the
case in the villages) are left
quite naked until the age of six or seven
years or more, unless a
bit of rag can be easily obtained to serve them as
a partial covering.

Those little girls who have only a
piece of ragged stuff not
large enough to cover both the head and body
generally prefer
wearing it upon the head, and sometimes have the coquetry
to
draw a part of it before the face, as a veil, while the whole body
is exposed. Little ladies, four or five years of age, mostly wear
the white
face veil, like their mothers. When a boy is two or
three years old, or
often earlier, his head is shaven; a tuft of hair
only being left on the
crown, and another over the forehead,
1
the heads of female infants are seldom shaven. The young children,
of
both sexes, are usually carried by their mothers and
nurses, not in the
arms, but on the shoulder, seated astride:
2 and
sometimes, for a short distance, on the hip.
1 It is customary among the peasants throughout
a great part of Egypt, on
the first occasion of shaving a child's head,
to slay a victim, generally a goat,
at the tomb of some saint in or
near their village, and to make a feast with
the meat, of which their
friends, and any other persons who please, partake.
This is most common
in Upper Egypt, and among the tribes not very long
established on the
banks of the Nile. Their Pagan ancestors in Arabia observed
this
custom, and usually gave, as alms to the poor, the weight of the
hair
in silver or gold. The victim is called “'akeekah,”
and is offered as a
ransom for the child from hell. The custom of
shaving one part of a child's
head and leaving another was forbidden by
the Prophet.
In the treatment of their children, the women of the wealthier
classes are
remarkable for their excessive indulgence; and the
poor, for the little
attention they bestow, beyond supplying the
absolute wants of nature. The
mother is prohibited, by the
Muslim law, from weaning her child before the
expiration of two
years from the period of its birth, unless with the
consent of her
husband, which, I am told, is generally given after the
first year
or eighteen months. In the houses of the wealthy, the
child,
whether boy or girl, remains almost constantly confined in the
hareem (or the woman's apartments), or, at least, in the house:
sometimes
the boy continues thus an effeminate prisoner until a
master, hired to
instruct him daily, has taught him to read and
write. But it is important
to observe, that an affectionate respect
for parents and elders inculcated
in the hareem fits the boy for an
abrupt introduction into the world, as
will presently be shown.
When the ladies go out to pay a visit, or to take
an airing,
mounted on asses, the children generally go with them, each
carried by a female slave or servant, or seated between her knees
upon the
fore part of the saddle; the female attendants, as well
as the ladies,
being usually borne by asses, and it being the custom

of all the women to sit astride.
But it is seldom that the
children of the rich enjoy this slight diversion;
their health suffers
from confinement and pampering, and they are often
rendered
capricious, proud, and selfish. The women of the middle
classes
are scarcely less indulgent mothers. The estimation in which
the
wife is held by her husband, and even by her acquaintance,
depends, in a great degree, upon her fruitfulness, and upon the
preservation of her children; for by men and women, rich and
poor,
barrenness is still considered, in the East, a curse and a
reproach; and it
is regarded as disgraceful in a man to divorce,
without some cogent reason,
a wife who has borne him a child,
especially while her child is living. If,
therefore, a woman desire
her husband's love, or the respect of others, her
giving birth to a
child is a source of great joy to herself and him, and
her own
interest alone is a sufficient motive for maternal tenderness.
Very little expense is required, in Egypt, for the maintenance of
a
numerous offspring.
1
1 It is mentioned by Diodorus Siculus (lib. i.,
cap. 20), that the ancient
Egyptians clothed and reared their children
at a very trifling expense.
However much the children are caressed and fondled, in general
they feel and
manifest a most profound and praiseworthy respect
for their parents.
Disobedience to parents is considered by the
Muslims as one of the greatest
of sins, and classed, in point of
heinousness, with six other sins, which
are idolatry, murder, falsely
accusing modest women of adultery, wasting
the property of
orphans, taking usury, and desertion in an expedition
against
infidels. An undutiful child is very seldom heard of among the
Egyptians or the Arabs in general. Among the middle and higher
classes, the
child usually greets the father in the morning by kissing
his hand, and
then stands before him in an humble attitude,
with the left hand covered by
the right, to receive any order, or to
await his permission to depart; but
after the respectful kiss, is
often taken on the lap; and nearly the same
respect is shown
towards the mother. Other members of the family,
according
to age, relationship, and station, are also similarly regarded by
the
young; and hence arise that ease and propriety with which a
child,
emerging from the hareem, conducts himself in every
society, and that
loyalty which is often improperly regarded as
the result of Eastern
despotism.
2 Sons
scarcely ever sit, or eat,
or smoke, in the presence of the father, unless
bidden to do so;
2 “The structure of Eastern
government is but the enlargement of the
paternal roof.”
(Urquhart's Spirit of the East, vol. ii., p. 249.)

and they often even wait upon him,
and upon his guests, at meals
and on other occasions: they do not cease to
act thus when they
have become men.—I once partook of breakfast
with an Egyptian
merchant, before the door of his house, in the month of
Ramadán
(and therefore a little after sunset); and though every
person who
passed by, however poor, was invited to partake of the meal,
we
were waited upon by two of my host's sons; the elder about forty
years of age. As they had been fasting during the whole of the
day, and had
as yet only taken a draught of water, I begged the
father to allow them to
sit down and eat with us: he immediately
told them that they might do so;
but they declined.—The mothers
generally enjoy, in a greater
degree than the fathers, the affection
of their children; though they do
not receive from them equal
outward marks of respect. I have often known
servants to
hoard their wages for their mothers, though seldom for
their
fathers.
With the exception of those of the wealthier classes, the young
children in
Egypt, though objects of so much solicitude, are
generally very dirty, and
shabbily clad. The stranger here is disgusted
by the sight of them, and at
once condemns the modern
Egyptians as a very filthy people, without
requiring any other
reason for forming such an opinion of them; but it is
often the
case that those children who are most petted and beloved are
the
dirtiest, and worst clad. It is not uncommon to see, in the city
in which I am writing, a lady shuffling along in her ample tób
and habarah of new and rich and glistening silks, and one who
scents the
whole street with the odour of musk or civet as she
passes along, with all
that appears of her person scrupulously clean
and delicate, her eyes neatly
bordered with kohl applied in the
most careful manner, and the tip of a
finger or two showing the
fresh dye of the henna, and by her side a little
boy or girl, her
own child, with a face besmeared with dirt, and with
clothes
appearing as though they had been worn for months without
being washed. Few things surprised me so much as sights of this
kind on my
first arrival in this country. I naturally inquired the
cause of what
struck me as so strange and inconsistent, and
was informed that the
affectionate mothers thus neglected the
appearance of their children, and
purposely left them unwashed,
and clothed them so shabbily, particularly
when they had to take
them out in public,
from fear of
the evil eye, which is excessively
dreaded, and especially in the
case of children, since they are
generally esteemed the greatest of
blessings, and therefore most

likely to be coveted. It is partly
for the same reason that many
of them confine their boys so long in the
hareem. Some mothers
even dress their young sons as girls, because the
latter are less obnoxious
to envy.
The children of the poor have a yet more neglected appearance:
besides being
very scantily clad, or quite naked, they are,
in general, excessively
dirty: their eyes are frequently extremely
filthy: it is common to see half
a dozen or more flies in each eye,
unheeded and unmolested. The parents
consider it extremely
injurious to wash, or even touch, the eyes, when they
discharge
that acrid humour which attracts the flies: they even affirm
that
the loss of sight would result from frequently touching or
washing
them when thus affected; though washing is really one of the
best
means of alleviating the complaint.
At the age of about five or six years, or sometimes later, the
boy is
circumcised.
1
Previously to the performance of this rite
in the metropolis and other
towns of Egypt, the parents of the
youth, if not in indigent circumstances,
generally cause him to be
paraded through several streets in the
neighbourhood of their
dwelling. They mostly avail themselves of the
occurrence of a
bridal procession, to lessen the expenses of the parade:
and, in
this case, the boy and his attendants lead the procession. He
generally wears a red Kashmeer turban; but, in other respects, is
dressed
as a girl, with a yelek and saltah, and with a kurs, safa,
and other female
ornaments, to attract the eye, and so divert it
from his person.
2 These articles of dress
are of the richest
description that can be procured: they are usually
borrowed from
some lady, and much too large to fit the boy. A horse,
handsomely
caparisoned, is also borrowed to convey him; and in his
hand is placed a folded embroidered handkerchief, which he constantly
holds
before his mouth in his right hand, to hide part of
his face, and thus
protect himself from the evil eye. He is
preceded by a servant of the
barber, who is the operator, and by
three or more musicians, whose
instruments are commonly a hautboy
and drums. The foremost person in the
procession is
generally the barber's servant, bearing his
“heml,” which is a
case of wood, of a
semi-cylindrical form, with four short legs; its
front (the flat surface)
covered with pieces of looking-glass and
1 Among the peasants, not unfrequently at the
age of twelve, thirteen, or
fourteen years.
2 For a description of the ornaments here
mentioned see the Appendix: the
kurs and safa are also represented in a
preceding engraving, page 36.

embossed brass; and its back, with
a curtain. This is merely
the barber's sign: the servant carries it in the
manner represented
in the engraving here inserted. The musicians follow
next (or
some of them precede the “heml”), and then
follows the boy;
his horse led by a groom. Behind him walk several of his
female
relations and friends. Two boys are often paraded together, and
sometimes borne by one horse. Of the bridal processions, with
which that
above described is so often united, an account will be
found in the proper
place. A description, also, of some further
customs observed on the
occasion of a circumcision, and particularly
of a more genteel but less
general mode of celebrating that
event, will be given in another chapter,
relating to various private
festivities.
1
1 A custom mentioned by Strabo (p. 824), as
prevailing among the
Egyptians in his time, is still universally
practised in every part of Egypt,
both by the Muslims and Copts,
excepting in Alexandria and perhaps a few
other places on the shore of
the Mediterranean: it is also common, if not
equally prevalent, in
Arabia. Reland, who imperfectly describes this custom
(De Religione
Mohammedica, p. 75, edit. 1717), remarks its being mentioned
likewise
by Galen.
The parents seldom devote much of their time or attention to
the
intellectual education of their children; generally contenting
themselves
with instilling into their young minds a few principles
of religion, and
then submitting them, if they can afford to do so,
to the instruction of a
schoolmaster. As early as possible, the
child is taught to say,
“I testify that there is no deity but God;
and I testify that
Mohammad is God's Apostle.” He receives
also lessons of
religious pride, and learns to hate the Christians,
and all other sects but
his own, as thoroughly as does the Muslim
in advanced age. Most of the
children of the higher and middle
classes, and some of those of the lower
orders, are taught by the
schoolmaster to read, and to recite and chant
2 the whole or
certain portions of the Kur-án by memory. They afterwards
learn
the most common rules of arithmetic.
2 See the Chapter on music.
Schools are very numerous, not only in the metropolis, but in
every large
town; and there is one, at least, in every considerable
village. Almost
every mosque, “sebeel” (or public fountain),
and
“hód” (or drinking-place for cattle) in the
metropolis has a
“kuttáb” (or school)
attached to it, in which children are instructed
for a very trifling
expense; the “sheykh” or “fikee”
3
3 This term is a corruption of
“fakeeh,” which latter appellation is generally
given in Egypt only to a person deeply versed in religion and law; a
man
who merely recites the Kur-án, etc., professionally, or
who teaches others to
do so, being commonly called a
“fikee.”

PARADE PREVIOUS TO CIRCUMCISION.


(the master of the school)
receiving from the parent of each pupil
half a piaster (about five
farthings of our money), or something
more or less, every Thursday.
1 The master of a
school attached
to a mosque or other public building in
Cairo also
generally
receives yearly a tarboosh, a piece of white muslin for a turban,
a
piece of linen, and a pair of shoes; and each boy receives, at the
same time, a linen skull cap, four or five cubits
2 of cotton cloth,
and perhaps half a
piece (ten or twelve cubits) of linen, and a
pair of shoes, and, in some
cases, half a piaster or a piaster.
These presents are supplied by funds
bequeathed to the school,
and are given in the month of Ramadán.
The boys attend only
during the hours of instruction, and then return to
their homes.
The lessons are generally written upon tablets of wood,
painted
white; and when one lesson is learnt, the tablet is washed and
another is written. They also practise writing upon the same
tablet. The
schoolmaster and his pupils sit upon the ground,
and each boy has his
tablet in his hands, or a copy of the Kur-án,
or of one of its
thirty sections, on a little kind of desk of palmsticks.
All who are
learning to read, recite, or chant their lessons
aloud, at the same time
rocking their heads or bodies incessantly
backwards and forwards; which
practice is observed by almost
all persons in reciting the
Kur-án; being thought to assist the
memory. The noise may be
imagined.
3
1 Friday, being the sabbath of the Muslims, is a
holiday to the school-boys
and fikee.
2 The cubit employed in measuring Egyptian
cloths is equal to twenty-two
inches and two-thirds.
3 The usual punishment is beating on the soles
of the feet with a palm-stick.
The boys first learn the letters of the alphabet; next, the vowel-points
and
other orthographical marks; and then, the numerical
value of each letter of
the alphabet.
4
Previously to this third
stage of the pupil's progress, it is customary for
the master to
ornament the tablet with black and red ink, and green paint,
and
to write upon it the letters of the alphabet in the order of their
respective numerical values, and convey it to the father, who
returns it
with a piaster or two placed upon it. The like is also
done at several
subsequent stages of the boy's progress, as when
he begins to learn the
Kur-án, and six or seven times as he
proceeds in learning the
sacred book; each time the next lesson
being written on the tablet. When he
has become acquainted with
the numerical values of the letters, the master
writes for him some
4 The Arabic letters are often used as numerals.

simple words, as the names of men;
then, the ninety-nine names
or epithets of God: next, the Fat'hah, or
opening chapter of the
Kur-án, is written upon his tablet, and
he reads it repeatedly
until he has perfectly committed it to memory. He
then proceeds
to learn the other chapters of the Kur-án: after
the first chapter
he learns the last; then the last but one; next the last
but two,
and so on, in inverted order, ending with the second; as the
chapters in general successively decrease in length from the second
to the
last inclusively. It is seldom that the master of a school
teaches writing;
and few boys learn to write unless destined for
some employment which
absolutely requires that they should do
so; in which latter case they are
generally taught the art of
writing, and likewise arithmetic, by a
“kabbánee,” who is a
person employed to
weigh goods in a market or bázár, with the
steelyard.
Those who are to devote themselves to religion, or to
any of the learned
professions, mostly pursue a regular course of
study in the great mosque
El-Azhar.
The schoolmasters in Egypt are mostly persons of very little
learning: few
of them are acquainted with any writings except
the Kur-án, and
certain prayers, which, as well as the contents of
the sacred volume, they
are hired to recite on particular occasions.
I was lately told of a man who
could neither read nor write
succeeding to the office of a schoolmaster in
my neighbourhood.
Being able to recite the whole of the Kur-án,
he could hear the
boys repeat their lessons: to write them, he employed
the
“'areef” (or head boy and monitor in the school),
pretending
that his eyes were weak. A few days after he had taken upon
himself this office, a poor woman brought a letter for him to read
to her
from her son, who had gone on pilgrimage. The fikee
pretended to read it,
but said nothing; and the woman, inferring
from his silence that the letter
contained bad news, said to him,
‘Shall I shriek?” He
answered “Yes.” “Shall I tear my
clothes?” she asked: he replied “Yes.” So the
poor woman
returned to her house, and with her assembled friends
performed
the lamentation and other ceremonies usual on the occasion of
a
death. Not many days after this, her son arrived, and she asked
him
what he could mean by causing a letter to be written stating
that he was
dead? He explained the contents of the letter, and
she went to the
schoolmaster and begged him to inform her why
he had told her to shriek and
to tear her clothes, since the letter
was to inform her that her son was
well, and he was now arrived
at home. Not at all abashed, he said,
“God knows futurity!

How could I know that your son
would arrive in safety? It was
better that you should think him dead than
be led to expect to
see him and perhaps be disappointed.” Some
persons who were
sitting with him praised his wisdom, exclaiming,
“Truly, our new
fikee is a man of unusual judgment!”
and, for a little while, he
found that he had raised his reputation by this
blunder.
1
1 I have since found an anecdote almost exactly
similar to the above in the
Cairo edition of the “Thousand
and One Nights:” therefore either my informant's
account is
not strictly true, or the man alluded to by him was, in the
main, an
imitator: the latter is not improbable, as I have been credibly
informed
of several similar imitations, and of one which I know to be a
fact.
Some parents employ a sheykh or fikee to teach their boys
at home. The
father usually teaches his son to perform the
“wudoó,” and other ablutions, and to say his
prayers, and instructs
him in other religious and moral duties to the best
of his
ability. The Prophet directed his followers to order their
children
to say their prayers when seven years of age, and to beat
them if they did not do so when ten years old; and at the latter
age to
make them sleep in separate beds. In Egypt, however,
very few persons pray
before they have attained to manhood.
The female children are very seldom taught to read or write;
and not many of
them, even among the higher orders, learn to
say their prayers. Some of the
rich engage a “sheykhah” (or
learned woman) to visit
the hareem daily; to teach their daughters
and female slaves to say their
prayers, and to recite a few
chapters of the Kur-án; and
sometimes to instruct them in reading
and writing; but these are very rare
accomplishments for
females, even of the highest class in Egypt.
2 There are many
schools in which girls are taught plain needlework, embroidery,
etc. In
families in easy circumstances a “m'allimeh,” or
female
teacher of such kinds of work, is often engaged to attend the
girls
at their own home.
2 The young daughters of persons of the middle
classes are sometimes instructed
with the boys in a public school; but
they are usually veiled, and
hold no intercourse with the boys. I have
often seen a well-dressed girl reading
the Kur-án in a boys'
school.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER III.
RELIGION AND LAWS.
As the most important branch of their education, and the main
foundation of
their manners and customs, the religion and laws
of the people who are the
subject of these pages must be well
understood—not only in their
general principles, but in many
minor points—before we can
proceed to consider their social
condition and habits in the state of
manhood.
A difference of opinion among Muslims, respecting some
points of religion
and law, has given rise to four sects, which
consider each other orthodox
as to fundamental matters, and call
themselves
“Sunnees,” or followers of the traditions; while they
designate all other Muslims by the term “Shiya'ees,”
signifying,
according to their acceptation,
“heretics.” The Sunnees alone
are the class which we
have to consider. The four sects into
which they are divided are the
“Hanafees,” “Sháfe'ees,”
“Málikees,”
and
“Hambel'ees,”—so called from the names of
the
respective doctors whose tenets they have adopted. The Turks
are
of the first sect, which is the most reasonable. The inhabitants
of
Cairo,
a small proportion excepted (who are Hanafees),
are either
Sháfe'ees or Málikees; and it is generally said that
they are mostly of the former of these sects, as are also the people
of
Arabia; those of the Sharkeeyeh, on the east of the Delta,
Sháfe'ees; those of the Gharbeeyeh, or Delta, Sháfe'ees,
with a
few Málikees; those of the Boheyreh, on the west of the
Delta,
Málikees. The inhabitants of the Sa'eed, or the valley of
Upper
Egypt, are likewise, with few exceptions, Málikees; so
also are
the Nubians, and the Western Arabs. To the fourth sect very
few persons in the present day belong. All these sects agree in
deriving
their code of religion and law from four sources; namely,
the
Kur-án, the traditions of the Prophet, the concordance of his
early disciples, and analogy.
The religion which Mohammad taught is generally called by
the Arabs
“El-Islám. “Eemán” and
“Deen” are the particular
terms applied,
respectively, to faith and practical religion.
The grand principles of the faith are expressed in two articles,
the first
of which is this—
“There is no
deity but God.”
God, who created all things in heaven and in earth, who

preserveth all things, and decreeth
all things, who is without
beginning, and without end, omnipotent,
omniscient, and omni-present,
is
one. His unity is
thus declared in a short chapter of
the Kur-án
1: “Say, He is
God; one [God]. God is the Eternal.
He begetteth not, nor is He begotten;
and there is none equal
unto Him.” He hath no partner, nor any
offspring, in the creed
of the Muslim. Though Jesus Christ (whose name
should not
be mentioned without adding, “on whom be
peace”) is believed
to have been born of a pure virgin, by the
miraculous operation
of God,
2 without any natural father, to be the Messiah, and
“the
Word of God, which He transmitted unto Mary, and a
Spirit
[proceeding] from Him,”
3 yet he is not called the Son of God;
and no higher titles are given to him than those of a Prophet and
Apostle;
he is even considered as of inferior dignity to Mohammad,
inasmuch as the
Gospel is held to be superseded by the
Kurán. The Muslim
believes that Seyyidna 'Eesa
4 (or “our
Lord Jesus”), after He had
fulfilled the object of His mission, was
taken up unto God from the Jews,
who sought to slay Him; and
that another person, on whom God had stamped
the likeness of
Christ, was crucified in His stead.
5 He also believes that Christ
is to
come again upon the earth, to establish the Muslim religion,
and perfect
peace and security, after having killed Antichrist, and
to be a sign of the
approach of the last day.
1 Ch. 112.—In quoting passages in the
Kur-án, I have sometimes followed
Sale's translation, to the
general fidelity of which I willingly add my testimony.
I should,
however, mention that some of his explanatory notes are
unauthorized
and erroneous; as, for instance, with respect to the laws of
inheritance;
on which subject his version of the text also is faulty.
When
necessary, I have distinguished the verses by numbers. In doing
this I had
originally adopted the divisions made by Marracci, but have
since made the
numbers to agree with those in the late edition of the
Arabic text by Fluegel,
which, from its superior accuracy, is likely to
supersede the former editions.
2 Kur-án, ch. iii., vv. 40-42.
3 Kur-án, ch. iv., v. 169.
4 The title of “Seyyidna”
(our Lord) is given by the Muslims to prophets
and other venerated
persons.
5 Kur-án, ch. iv., v. 156.
The other grand article of the faith, which cannot be believed
without the
former, is this—
“Mohammad is God's
Apostle.”
Mohammad is believed by his followers to have been the last
and greatest of
Prophets and Apostles.
6
Six of these—namely,
Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, and
Mohammad—are
believed each to have received a revealed law, or
system of religion
6 The Muslim seldom mentions the name of the
Prophet without adding,
“Salla-lláhu 'aleyhi
wa-sellem”; i.e., “God favour
and preserve him!”

and morality. That, however, which
was revealed to Adam
was abrogated by the next; and each succeeding law, or
code of
laws, abrogated the preceding, though all are believed to have
been the same in every essential point; therefore, those who professed
the
Jewish religion from the time of Moses to that of Jesus
were true
believers, and those who professed the Christian religion
(uncorrupted, as
the Muslims say, by the tenet that Christ was
the
son of God) until the time of Mohammad are held, in like
manner, to
have been true believers. But the copies of the
Pentateuch, the Psalms of
David (which the Muslims also hold
to be of divine origin), and the Gospels
now existing, are believed
to have been so much altered as to contain very
little of
the true word of God. The Kur-án is believed to have
suffered
no alteration whatever.
It is further necessary that the Muslim should believe in the
existence of
angels, and of good and evil genii; the evil genii
being devils, whose
chief is Iblees:
1 also,
in the immortality of
the soul, the general resurrection and judgment, in
future rewards
and punishments in Paradise and Hell, in the balance in
which
good and evil works shall be weighed, and in the bridge
“Es-Sirát
(which extends over the midst of Hell,
finer than a hair, and
sharper than the edge of a sword), over which all
must pass, and
from which the wicked shall fall into Hell. He believes,
also, that
they who have acknowledged the faith of El-Islám and
yet acted
wickedly will not remain in Hell for ever; but that all of
other
religions must: that there are, however, degrees of punishments,
as
well as of rewards,—the former consisting in severe torture
by
excessive heat and cold, and the latter, partly in the indulgence
of the appetites by most delicious meats and drinks, and in the
pleasures
afforded by the company of the girls of Paradise, whose
eyes will be very
large and entirely black,
2 and whose stature will
be proportioned to that of the men, which
will be the height of
a tall palm-tree, or about sixty feet. Such, the
Muslims generally
believe, was the height of our first parents. It is said
that the
souls of martyrs reside, until the judgment, in the crops of green
1 In the first edition of this work, I here
mentioned the Devil as distinct
from the genii;
but I have since found that the majority of the most esteemed
Arab
authors are of the contrary opinion. Theirs is also the general opinion
of the modern
Arabs.—The angelic nature is considered as inferior to the
human (because the angels were commanded to prostrate themselves before
Adam), and still more so is the nature of genii.
2 Like those of the gazelle: this meaning of
their common appellation (which
is mentioned afterwards) is, however,
disputed

birds, which eat of the fruits of
paradise and drink of its rivers.
1
Women are not to be excluded from Paradise, according to the
faith of
El-Islám; though it has been asserted, by many Christians,
that
the Muslims believe women to have no souls. In
several places in the
Kur-án, Paradise is promised to all true
believers, whether
males or females. It is the doctrine of the
Kur-án that no
person will be admitted into Paradise by his own
merits; but that admission
will be granted to the believers merely
by the mercy of God, on account of
their faith; yet that the
felicity of each person will be proportioned to
his good works.
The very meanest in Paradise is promised “eighty
thousand servants”
(beautiful youths, called
“weleeds”), “seventy-two wives
of the
girls of Paradise” (“hooreeyehs”),
“besides the wives he
had in this world,” if he
desire to have the latter (and the good
will doubtless desire the good),
“and a tent erected for him of
pearls, jacinths, and emeralds,
of a very large extent;” “and will
be waited on by
three hundred attendants while he eats, and
served in dishes of gold,
whereof three hundred shall be set before
him at once, each containing a
different kind of food, the last
morsel of which will be as grateful as the
first.” Wine also,
“though forbidden in this life,
will yet be freely allowed to be
drunk in the next, and without danger,
since the wine of Paradise
will not inebriate.”
2 We are further told,
that all superfluities
from the bodies of the inhabitants of Paradise will
be carried off
by perspiration, which will diffuse an odour like that of
musk; and
that they will be clothed in the richest silks, chiefly of
green.
They are also promised perpetual youth, and children as many as
they may desire. These pleasures, together with the songs of the
angel
Isráfeel, and many other gratifications of the senses, will
charm even the meanest inhabitant of Paradise. But all these
enjoyments
will be lightly esteemed by those more blessed persons
who are to be
admitted to the highest of all honours—that spiritual
pleasure
of beholding, morning and evening, the face of God.
3—
1 The title of martyr is given to the unpaid
soldier killed in a war for the
defence of the faith, to a person who
innocently meets with his death from the
hand of another, to a victim
of the plague (if he has not fled from the disease)
or of dysentery, to
a person who is drowned, and to one who is killed by the
fall of any
building.
2 See Sale's Preliminary Discourse to his
Translation of the Kur-án, sect, iv.
3 A Muslim of some learning professed to me that
he considered the description
of Paradise given in the
Kur-án to be, in a great measure, figurative:
“like those,” said he, “in the book of the
Revelation of St. John;” and he
assured me that many learned
Muslims were of the same opinion.

The Muslim must also believe in the
examination of the dead
in the sepulchre, by two angels, called Munkar and
Nekeer, of
terrible aspect, who will cause the body (to which the soul
shall,
for the time, be re-united) to sit upright in the grave,
1 and will
question the deceased respecting his faith. The wicked they will
severely
torture; but the good they will not hurt. Lastly, he
should believe in
God's absolute decree of every event, both good
and evil. This doctrine has
given rise to as much controversy
among the Muslims as among Christians;
but the former,
generally, believe in predestination as, in some respects,
conditional.
1 The corpse is always deposited in a vault, and
not placed in a coffin, but
merely wrapped in winding-sheets or
clothes.
The most important duties enjoined in the ritual and moral
laws and prayer, alms-giving,
fasting, and pilgrimage.
The religious
purifications, which are of two
kinds,—first, the
ordinary ablution preparatory to
prayer, and secondly, the washing
of the whole body,
together with the performance of the former
ablution,—are of
primary importance: for prayer, which is a duty
so important that it is
called “the Key of Paradise,” will not be
accepted
from a person in a state of uncleanness. It is therefore
also necessary to
avoid impurity by clipping the nails, and other
similar practices.
2
2 Alluded to in the first chapter.
There are partial washings, or purifications, which all Muslims
perform on
certain occasions, even if they neglect their prayers,
and which are
considered as religious acts.
3 The ablution called
“el-wudoó,” which is preparatory to prayer, I
shall now describe.
The purifications just before alluded to are a part of
the wudoó:
the other washings are not, of necessity, to be
performed immediately
after, but only when the person is about to say his
prayers;
and these are performed in the mosque or in the house, in
public or in private. There is in every mosque a tank (called
“meydaäah”) or a
“hanafeeyeh,” which is a raised reservoir, with
spouts round it, from which the water falls. In some mosques
there are both
these. The Muslims of the Hanafee sect (of which
are the Turks) perform the
ablution at the latter (which has received
its name from that cause); for
they must do it with running
water, or from a tank or pool at least ten
cubits in breadth,
3 For an account of these private ablutions, and
the occasions which require
their performance, the reader may consult
Reland, De Rel. Moh., pp. 80-83,
ed. 1717.

and the same in depth; and I
believe that there is only one
meydaäh in
Cairo of that depth,
which is in the great mosque
El-Azhar. A small hanafeeyeh of tinned copper,
placed on a low
shelf, and a large basin, or a small ewer and basin of the
same
metal, are generally used in the house for the performance of the
wudoó.
The person, having tucked up his sleeves a little higher than
his elbows,
says, in a low voice, or inaudibly, “I purpose performing
the
wudoó, for prayer.”
1 He then washes his hands
three times; saying, in
the same manner as before, “In the
name of God, the
Compassionate, the Merciful! Praise be to
God, who hath sent down water for
purification, and made
El-Islám to be a light and a conductor,
and a guide to Thy
gardens, the gardens of delight, and to Thy mansion, the
mansion
of peace.” Then he rinses his mouth three times,
throwing the
water into it with his right hand;
2 and in doing this he says,
“O God, assist me in the reading of Thy book, and in
commemorating
Thee, and in thanking Thee, and in worshipping
Thee
well!” Next, with his right hand, he throws water up
his
nostrils (snuffing it up at the same time), and then blows it
out,
compressing his nostrils with the thumb and finger of the
left hand; and this also is done three times. While doing
it, he
says, “O God, make me to smell the odours of Paradise,
and
bless me with its delights; and make me not to smell the smell
of
the fires [of Hell].” He then washes his face three times,
throwing up the water with both hands, and saying, “O God,
whiten my face with Thy light, on the day when Thou shalt
whiten the faces
of Thy favourites; and do not blacken my face,
on the day when Thou shalt
blacken the faces of Thine enemies.”
3
His right hand and arm, as high as the elbow, he next washes
three
times, and as many times causes some water to run along
his arm, from the
palm of the hand to the elbow, saying, as he
does this, “O God,
give me my book in my right hand;
4 and
1 All persons do not use exactly the same words
on this occasion, nor
during the performance of the wudoó;
and most persons use no words during
the performance.
2 He should also use a tooth-stick
(miswák) to clean his teeth; but few
do so.
3 It is believed that the good man will rise to
judgment with his face white;
and the bad, with his face black. Hence a
man's face is said to be white or
black according as he is in good or
bad repute; and “may God blacken thy
face!” is a
common imprecation.
4 To every man is appropriated a book, in which
all the actions of his life
are written. The just man, it is said, will
receive his book in his right hand;
but the wicked, in his left, which
will be tied behind his back; his right hand
being tied up to his neck.

reckon with me with an easy
reckoning.” In the same manner
he washes the left hand and arm,
saying, “O God, do not give
me my book in my left hand, nor
behind my back; and do not
reckon with me with a difficult reckoning; nor
make me to be
one of the people of the fire.” He next draws his
wetted right
hand over the upper part of his head, raising his turban or
cap
with his left: this he does but once; and he accompanies the
action with this supplication, “O God, cover me with Thy mercy,
and pour down Thy blessing upon me; and shade me under the
shadow of Thy
canopy, on the day when there shall be no shade
but its shade.”
If he have a beard, he then combs it with the
wetted fingers of his right
hand; holding his hand with the palm
forwards, and passing the fingers
through his beard from the
throat upwards. He then puts the tips of his
fore-fingers into
his ears, and twists them round, passing his thumbs at
the same
time round the back of the ears, from the bottom upwards; and
saying, “O God, make me to be of those who hear what is said,
and obey what is best;” or, “O God, make me to hear
good.”
Next he wipes his neck with the back of the fingers of
both
hands, making the ends of his fingers meet behind his neck, and
then drawing them forward; and in doing so, he says, “O God,
free my neck from the fire; and keep me from the chains, and
the collars,
and the fetters.” Lastly, he washes his feet, as high
as the
ankles, and passes his fingers between the toes: he washes
the right foot
first, saying, at the same time, “O God, make firm
my feet upon
the Sirát, on the day when feet shall slip upon it:”
on washing the left foot, he says, “O God, make my labour to
be
approved, and my sin forgiven, and my works accepted,
merchandise that
shall not perish, by Thy pardon, O Mighty!
O very Forgiving! by Thy mercy,
O most Merciful of those who
show mercy!” After having thus
completed the ablution, he
says, looking towards heaven, “Thy
perfection, O God! [I extol]
with Thy praise: I testify that there is no
deity but Thou alone:
Thou hast no companion: I implore Thy forgiveness,
and turn to
Thee with repentance.” Then looking towards the
earth, he
adds, “I testify that there is no deity but God: and I
testify that
Mohammad is His servant and His apostle.” Having
uttered
these words, he should recite, once, twice, or three times,
the
“Soorat el-Kadr,” or 97th chapter of the
Kur-án.

The wudoó is generally performed in less than two minutes;
most
persons hurrying through the act, as well as omitting almost
all the
prayers, etc., which should accompany and follow the
actions. It is not
required before each of the five daily prayers,
when the person is
conscious of having avoided every kind of
impurity
since the last performance of this ablution. When water
cannot be easily
procured, or would be injurious to the health of
the individual, he may
perform the ablution with dust or sand.
This ceremony is called
“tayemmum.” The person, in this case,
strikes the
palms of his hands upon any dry dust or sand (it will
suffice to do so upon
his cloth robe, as it must contain some
dust), and, with both hands, wipes
his face: then, having struck
his hands again upon the dust, he wipes his
right hand and arm
as high as the elbow; and then, the left hand and arm,
in the
same manner. This completes the ceremony. The washing of
the
whole body is often performed merely for the sake of cleanliness;
but not
as a religious act, excepting on particular occasions—
as on the
morning of Friday, and on the two grand festivals, etc.,
1
when it is called “ghusl.”
1 Here, again, I must beg to refer the reader
(if he desires such information)
to Reland's account of the ghusl, and
the occasions which require its performance.—
De Rel. Moh.,
pp. 66-77, ed. 1717.
Cleanliness is required not only in the worshipper, but also in
the ground,
mat, carpet, robe, or whatever else it be, upon which
he prays. Persons of
the lower orders often pray upon the bare
ground, which is considered clean
if it be dry; and they seldom
wipe off immediately the dust which adheres
to the nose and
forehead in prostration; for it is regarded as ornamental
to the
believer's face: but when a person has a cloak or any other
garment that he can take off without exposing his person in an
unbecoming
manner, he spreads it upon the ground to serve as a
prayer-carpet. The rich
use a prayer-carpet (called “seggádeh”)
about the size of a wide hearth-rug, having a niche represented
upon it,
the point of which is turned towards Mekkeh.
2 It is
reckoned sinful to pass near before a
person engaged in prayer.
2 Seggádeshs, of the kind here
described, are now sold in London, under
the name of Persian carpets or
Persian rugs.
Prayer is called “salah.” Five
times in the course of every
day is its performance required of the Muslim:
but there are
comparatively few persons in Egypt who do not sometimes,
or
often, neglect this duty; and many who scarcely ever pray.
Certain
portions of the ordinary prayers are called “fard,”
which

are appointed by the
Kur-án; and others, “sunneh,” which are
appointed by the Prophet, without allegation of a divine order.
The first time of prayer commences at the “maghrib,”
or
sunset,
1 or
rather, about four minutes later; the second, at the
“'eshë,” or nightfall, when the evening has
closed, and it is quite
dark;
2 the third, at the “subh” or
“fegr;”
i.e., daybreak;
3
the fourth, at the “duhr,” or noon, or, rather, a
little later, when
the sun has begun to decline; the fifth, at the
“'asr,” or afternoon;
i.e., about mid-time between noon and nightfall.
4 Each
period of
prayer ends when the next commences, excepting that
of daybreak, which ends
at sunrise. The Prophet would not
have his followers commence their prayers
at sunrise, nor exactly
at noon or sunset, because, he said, infidels
worshipped the sun
at such times.
1 I have called this the first, because the
Mohammadan day commences
from sunset; but the morning prayer is often
termed the first; the prayer of
noon, the second; and so on.
2 The 'eshë of the
Sháfe'ees, Málikees, and Hambel'ees, is when the
red
gleam (“esh-shafak el-ahmar”) after sunset
has disappeared; and that of the
Hanafees, when both the red and the
white gleam have disappeared.
3 Generally on the first faint appearance of
light in the east. The Hanafees
mostly perform the morning-prayer a
little later, when the yellow gleam
(“el-isfirár”) appears: this they deem the
most proper time, but they may
pray earlier.
4 The 'asr, according to the
Sháfe'ees, Málikees, and Hambel'ees, is when
the
shade of an object, cast by the sun, is equal to the length of that
object,
added to the length of the shade which the same object casts at
noon; and,
according to the Hanafees, when the shadow is equal to twice the length of
the object added to the
length of its mid day shadow.
Should the time of prayer arrive when they are eating, or about
to eat, they
are not to rise to prayer till they have finished their
meal. The prayers
should be said as nearly as possible at the
commencement of the periods
above mentioned: they may be
said after, but not before. The several times
of prayer are announced
by the “muëddin”
of each mosque. Having ascended
to the gallery of the
“mád'neh,” or menaret, he chants the
“adán,” or call to prayer, which is as follows:
“God is most
Great!” (this is said four times.)
“I testify that there is no
deity but God!” (twice.)
“I testify that Mohammad is
God's Apostle!” (twice.)
“Come to prayer!” (twice.) “Come
to
security!” (twice.)
5 “God is most Great!” (twice.)
“There
is no deity but God!”—Most of the
muëddins of
Cairo have
5 Here is added, in the morning call,
“Prayer is better than sleep!”
(twice.)

harmonious and sonorous voices,
which they strain to the utmost
pitch: yet there is a simple and solemn
melody in their chants
which is very striking, particularly in the
stillness of night.
1
Blind men are generally preferred for the office of
muëddins,
that the hareems and terraces of surrounding houses
may not be
overlooked from the mád'nehs.
1 A common air, to which the adán is
chanted in Cairo, will be given in the
chapter on Egyptian
music.
Two other calls to prayer are made during the night, to rouse
those persons
who desire to perform supererogatory acts of devotion.
2
A little after midnight, the muëddins of the great royal
mosques in
Cairo (
i.e., of each of the great mosques
founded by
a Sultán, which is called
“Gámë, Sultánee”), and of
some other
large mosques, ascend the mád'nehs, and chant the
following call,
which, being one of the two night-calls not at the regular
periods
of obligatory prayers, is called the “Oola,”
a term signifying
merely the “First.” Having
commenced by chanting the common
adán, with those words which
are introduced in the call to
morning-prayer (“Prayer is better
than sleep”), he adds, “There
is no deity but
God” (three times) “alone: He hath no companion:
to
Him belongeth the dominion; and to Him belongeth
praise. He giveth life,
and causeth death; and He is living, and
shall never die. In His hand is
blessing [or good]; and He is
Almighty.—There is no deity but
God!” (three times) “and we
will not worship any
beside Him, ‘serving Him with sincerity of
religion,'
3 ‘though
the infidels be averse'
4 [thereto]. There is
no deity but God! Mohammad is the most noble
of the creation
in the sight of God. Mohammad is the best prophet that
hath
been sent, and a lord by whom his companions became lords;
comely; liberal of gifts; perfect; pleasant to the taste; sweet;
soft to
the throat [or to be drunk]. Pardon, O Lord, Thy servant
and Thy poor
dependent, the endower of this place, and
him who watcheth it with goodness
and beneficence, and its
neighbours, and those who frequent it at the times
of prayers
and good acts, O Thou Bountiful!—O
Lord!”
5
(three times.)
“Thou art He who ceaseth not to be distinguished
by mercy:
Thou art liberal of Thy clemency towards the rebellious; and
protectest him; and concealest what is foul; and makest manifest
every
virtuous action; and Thou bestowest Thy beneficence upon
the servant, and
comfortest him, O Thou Bountiful!—O Lord!”
2 They are few who do so.
3 Kur-án, ch. xcviii., v. 4.
4 Same, ch. ix., v. 32,
and ch. 1xi. v. 8.
5 This exclamation (“Yá
rabb!”) is made in a very loud tone.

(three times.) “My sins,
when I think upon them, [I see to be]
many; but the mercy of my Lord is
more abundant than are
my sins: I am not solicitous on account of good that
I have
done; but for the mercy of God I am most solicitous. Extolled
be the Everlasting! He hath no companion in His great dominion.
His
perfection [I extol]: exalted be His name: [I extol]
the perfection of
God.”
About an hour before daybreak, the muëddins of most mosques
chant
the second call, named the “Ebed,” and so called from
the
occurrence of that word near the commencement.
1 This call is
as follows:
“[I extol] the perfection of God, the Existing for
ever and
ever” (three times): “the perfection of God, the
Desired, the Existing, the Single, the Supreme: the perfection of
God, the
One, the Sole: the perfection of Him who taketh to
Himself, in His great
dominion, neither female companion, nor
male partner, nor any like unto
Him, nor any that is disobedient,
nor any deputy, nor any equal, nor any
offspring. His perfection
[I extol]: and exalted be His name! He is a Deity
who knew
what hath been before it was, and called into existence what
hath been; and He is now existing as He was [at the first].
His perfection
[I extol]: and exalted be His name! He is a
Deity unto whom there is none
like existing. There is none like
unto God, the Bountiful, existing. There
is none like unto God,
the Clement, existing. There is none like unto God,
the Great,
existing. And there is no deity but Thou, O our Lord, to be
worshipped and to be praised and to be desired and to be
glorified. [I
extol] the perfection of Him who created all creatures,
and numbered them,
and distributed their sustenance, and
decreed the terms of the lives of His
servants: and our Lord,
the Bountiful, the Clement, the Great, forgetteth
not one of them.
[I extol] the perfection of Him who, of His power and
greatness,
caused the pure water to flow from the solid stone, the mass
of
rock: the perfection of Him who spake with our lord Moosa [or
Moses] upon the mountain;
2 whereupon the mountain was reduced
to dust,
3 through dread of God, whose name be
exalted,
the One, the Sole. There is no deity but God. He is a just
Judge. [I extol] the perfection of the First. Blessing and peace
be on
thee, O comely of countenance! O Apostle of God!
1 The word “ebed” is here
used adverbially, signifying “for ever.”

Blessing and peace be on thee, O
first of the creatures of
God! and seal of the apostles of God! Blessing
and peace be
on thee, O thou Prophet! on thee and on thy Family, and
all
thy Companions. God is most Great! God is most Great!”
etc., to the end of the call to morning-prayer. “O God, favour
and preserve and bless the blessed Prophet, our lord Mohammad!
And may God,
whose name be blessed and exalted, be well
pleased with thee, O our lord
El-Hasan, and with thee, O our
lord El-Hoseyn, and with thee, O
Aboo-Farrág,
1 O Sheykh of
the Arabs, and with all the favourites [the
“welees”] of God.
Amen.”
2 These words, “The perfection of Him
who spake,” etc. (“subhána men
kellema,” etc.), are pronounced in a very high and loud tone.
3 See Kur-án, ch. vii., v. 139.
1 “Aboo-Farrág”
is a surname of a famous saint, the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee,
buried at
Tanta in the Delta: it implies that he obtains relief to
those who
visit his tomb, and implore his intercession.
The prayers which are performed daily at the five periods
before mentioned
are said to be of so many “rek'ahs,” or inclinations
of the head.
2
2 The morning-prayers, two rek'ahs sunneh and
two fard: the noon, four
sunneh and four fard; the afternoon, the same;
the evening, three fard and
two sunneh; and the night-prayers (or
'eshë), four sunneh and four fard, and
two sunneh again.
After these are yet to be performed three rek'ahs “witr;”
i.e., single or separate prayers: these may be
performed immediately after the
'eshë prayers, or at any
time in the night; but are more meritorious if late
in
the night.
The worshipper, standing with his face towards the Kibleh
(that is, towards
Mekkeh), and his feet not quite close together,
says, inaudibly, that he
has purposed to recite the prayers of so
many rek'ahs (sunneh or fard) the
morning-prayers (or the noon,
etc.) of the present day (or night); and
then, raising his open
hands on each side of his face, and touching the
lobes of his
ears with the ends of his thumbs, he says, “God is
most Great!”
(“Alláhu Akbar.”)
This ejaculation is called the “tekbeer.”
He then
proceeds to recite the prayers of the prescribed number
of rek'ahs,
3 thus:—
3 There are some little differences in the
attitudes of the four great sects
during prayer. I describe those of
the Hanafees.
Still standing, and placing his hands before him, a little below
his girdle,
the left within the right, he recites (with his eyes
directed towards the
spot where his head will touch the ground
in prostration) the
Fát'hah, or opening chapter of the Kur-án,
4 and
4 Some persons previously utter certain
supererogatory ejaculations, expressive
of the praise and glory of God;
and add, “I seek refuge with God from
Satan the
accursed;” which petition is often offered up before reciting
any
part of the Kur-án on other occasions, as commanded by
the Kur-án itself
(ch. xvi., v. 100).
The Kur-án is usually recited, in the fard prayers, in a
voice slightly audible, excepting at noon and the 'asr, when it is
recited
inaudibly. By Imáms, when praying at the head of
others, and sometimes by
persons praying alone, it is chanted. In the
sunneh prayers it is recited
inaudibly.

after it three or more other
verses, or one of the short chapters,
of the
Kur-án—very commonly the 112th chapter—but
without
repeating the bismillah (in the name of God, etc.) before the
second recitation. He then says, “God is most Great!”
and
makes, at the same time, an inclination of his head and body,
placing his hands upon his knees, and separating his fingers a
little. In
this posture he says, “[I extol] the perfection of my
Lord, the
Great!” (three times), adding, “May God hear him
who
praiseth Him. Our Lord, praise be unto Thee!” Then,

POSTURES OF PRAYERS, (PART 1.)
raising his head and body, he repeats, “God is most
Great!”
He next drops gently upon his knees, and, saying again,
“God is
most Great!” places his hands upon the
ground, a little before
his knees, and puts his nose and forehead also to
the ground (the
former first), between his two hands. During this
prostration he
says, “[I extol] the perfection of my Lord, the
Most High!”

(three times.) He raises his head
and body (but his knees
remain upon the ground), sinks backwards upon his
heels, and
places his hands upon his thighs, saving, at the same time,
“God
is most Great!” and this he repeats as he bends
his head a
second time to the ground. During this second prostration
he
repeats the same words as in the first, and in raising his head
again, he utters the tekbeer as before. Thus are completed the
prayers of
one rek'ah. In all the changes of posture, the toes
of the right foot must
not be moved from the spot where they
were first placed, and the left foot
should be moved as little as
possible.

POSTURES OF PRAYER. (PART II.)
Having finished the prayers of one rek'ah, the worshipper rises
upon his
feet (but without moving his toes from the spot where
they were,
particularly those of the right foot), and repeats the
same; only he should
recite some other chapter, or portion, after
the Fát'hah, than
that which he repeated before, as, for instance,
the 108th chapter.
1
1 In the third and fourth fard rek'ahs, the
recitation of a second portion of
the Kur-án after the
Fát'hah should be omitted; and before fard prayers of
four
rek'ahs, the “ikámeh (which consists of the words of
the adán, with the
addition of “the time of
prayer is come,” pronounced twice after “come to
security”) should be repeated; but most persons neglect doing
this, and
many do not observe the former rule.
After every
second rek'ah (and after the
last, though there be
an odd number, as in the evening fard), he
does not immediately
raise his knees from the ground, but bends his left
foot under
him, and sits upon it, and places his hands upon his thighs,
with
the fingers a little apart. In this posture he says,
“Praises are
to God, and prayers, and good works. Peace be on
thee, O
Prophet, and the mercy of God, and His blessings! Peace be on
us, and on [all] the righteous worshippers of God!” Then
raising
the first finger of the right hand
1 (but not the hand itself),
he adds,
“I testify that there is no deity but God; and I testify
that
Mohammad is His servant and His apostle.”
1 The doctors of El-Islám differ
respecting the proper position of the
fingers of the right hand on this
occasion: some hold that all the fingers but
the first are to be
doubled, as represented in Part II. of the sketch of the
postures of
prayer.
After the
last rek'ah of each of the prayers (that is,
after the
sunneh prayers and the fard alike), after saying,
“Praises are to
God,” etc., the worshipper, looking
upon his right shoulder, says,
“Peace be on you, and the mercy
of God!” Then looking
upon the left, he repeats the same. These
salutations are considered
by some as addressed only to the guardian angels
who
watch over the believer, and note all his actions;
2 but others say
that they are addressed both to angels and men (
i.e.,
believers
only), who may be present; no person, however, returns them.
Before the salutations in the
last prayer, the worshipper
may offer
up any short petition (in Scriptural language rather than
his
own); while he does so, looking at the palms of his two hands,
which he holds like an open book before him, and then draws
over his face,
from the forehead downwards.
2 Some say that every believer is attended by
two angels; others say, five;
others, sixty, or a hundred and
sixty.
Having finished both the sunneh and fard prayers, the worshipper,
if he
would acquit himself completely, or rather, perform
supererogatory acts,
remains sitting (but may then sit more at his
ease), and recites the
“A'yet el-Kursee,” or Throne-Verse, which
is the
256th of the 2nd chapter of the Kur-án;
3 and adds, “O
High! O
Great! Thy perfection [I extol].” He then repeats,
“The perfection of God!” (thirty-three times.)
“The perfection
3 Beginning with the words “God:
there is no deity but He;” and
ending with, “He
is the High, the Great.”

of God, the Great, with His praise
for ever!” (once.) “Praise
be to God!”
(thirty-three times.) “Extolled be His dignity!
There is no
deity but He!” (once.) “God is most
Great!”
(thirty-three times.) “God is most Great in
greatness, and praise
be to God in abundance!” (once.) He counts
these repetitions
with a string of beads called
“sebhah” (more properly
“subhah”).
The beads are ninety-nine, and have a mark
between
each thirty-three. They are of aloes, or other odoriferous or
precious wood, or of coral, or of certain fruit-stones, or seeds,
etc.
Any wandering of the eyes, or of the mind, a coughing, or the
like,
answering a question, or any action not prescribed to be
performed, must be
strictly avoided (unless it be between the
sunneh
prayers and the fard, or be difficult to avoid; for it is
held allowable to
make three slight irregular motions, or deviations
from correct
deportment); otherwise the worshipper must
begin again, and repeat his
prayers with due reverence. It is
considered extremely sinful to interrupt
a man when engaged in
his devotions. The time usually occupied in repeating
the prayers
of four rek'ahs, without the supererogatory additions, is less
than
four, or even three, minutes. The Muslim says the five daily
prayers in his house or shop or in the mosque, according as may
be most
convenient to him: it is seldom that a person goes from
his house to the
mosque to pray, excepting to join the congregation
on Friday. Men of the
lower orders oftener pray in the
mosques than those who have a comfortable
home, and a mat or
carpet upon which to pray.
The same prayers are said by the congregation in the mosque
on the noon of
Friday; but there are additional rites performed
by the Imám and
other ministers on this occasion. The chief
reasons for fixing upon Friday
as the Sabbath of the Muslims
were, it is said, because Adam was created on
that day, and died
on the same day of the week, and because the general
resurrection
was prophesied to happen on the day; whence,
particularly,
Friday was named the day of “El-Gum'ah”
(or the assembly).
The Muslim does not abstain from worldly business on
Friday,
excepting during the time of prayer, according to the precept
of
the Kur-án, ch. lxii., vv. 9 and 10.
To form a proper conception of the ceremonials of the Friday-prayers,
it is
necessary to have some idea of the interior of a
mosque. A mosque in which
a congregation assembles to
perform the Friday-prayers is called
“gámë'.” The mosques of

Cairo are so numerous, that none of
them is inconveniently

INTERIOR OF A MOSQUE.
crowded on the Friday; and some of them are so large as to
occupy
spaces three or four hundred feet square. They are

mostly built of stone, the
alternate courses of which are generally
coloured externally red and white.
Most commonly a large
mosque consists of porticoes surrounding a square
open court,
in the centre of which is a tank or a fountain for ablution.
One
side of the building faces the direction of Mekkeh, and the
portico
on this side, being the principal place of prayer, is more
spacious
than those on the three other sides of the court: it generally
has
two or more rows of columns, forming so many aisles, parallel
with
the exterior wall. In some cases, this portico, like the other
three, is
open to the court; in other cases, it is separated from the
court by
partitions of wood, connecting the front row of columns.
In the centre of
its exterior wall is the mehráb (or niche) which
marks the
direction of Mekkeh; and to the right of this is the
“mimbar” (or pulpit). Opposite the mehráb, in
the fore part of
the portico, or in its central part, there is generally a
platform
(called “dikkeh”), surrounded by a parapet,
and supported by
small columns; and by it, or before it, are one or two
seats,
having a kind of desk to bear a volume of the Kur-án,
from which
a chapter is read to the congregation. The walls are
generally
quite plain, being simply white-washed; but in some mosques
the
lower part of the wall of the place of prayer is lined with
coloured
marbles, and the other part ornamented with various devices
executed in stucco, but mostly with texts of the Kur-án (which
form long friezes, having a pleasing effect), and never with the
representation of anything that has life. The pavement is
covered with
matting, and the rich and poor pray side by side;
the man of rank or wealth
enjoying no peculiar distinction or
comfort, unless (which is sometimes the
case) he have a prayer-carpet
brought by his servant, and spread for
him.
1
1 Adjoining each mosque are several
“latrinae,” in each of which is a
receptacle with
water, for ablution.
The Prophet did not forbid
women to attend public prayers
in
a mosque, but pronounced it better for them to pray in private:
in
Cairo, however, neither females nor young boys are allowed to
pray with the
congregation in the mosque, or even to be present
in the mosque at any time
of prayer: formerly women were
permitted (and perhaps are still in some
countries), but were
obliged to place themselves apart from the men, and
behind the
latter; because, as Sale has remarked, the Muslims are of
opinion
that the presence of females inspires a different kind of
devotion
from that which is requisite in a place dedicated to the
worship
of God. Very few women in Egypt even pray at home.

Over each of the mosques of
Cairo presides a
“Názir” (or
warden), who is the trustee of
the funds, which arise from lands,
houses, etc., bequeathed to the mosque
by the founder and
others, and who appoints the religious ministers and the
inferior
servants. Two “Imáms” are
employed to officiate in each of
the larger mosques: one of them, called
the “Khateeb,”
preaches and prays before the
congregation on the Friday: the
other is an “Imám
Rátib,” or ordinary Imám, who recites the
five prayers of every day in the mosque, at the head of those
persons who
may be there at the exact times of those prayers:
but in most of the
smaller mosques both these offices are performed
by one Imám.
There are also to each mosque one or
more
“muëddins” (to chant the call to prayer), and
“bowwábs”
(or door-keepers), according as
there are one or more mád'nehs
(or menarets) and entrances; and
several other servants are
employed to sweep the mosque, spread the mats,
light the lamps,
and attend to the sákiyeh (or water-wheel), by
which the tank or
fountain, and other receptacles for water, necessary to
the performance
of ablutions, are supplied. The Imáms, and those
persons
who perform the lower offices, are all paid from the funds of
the
mosque, and not by any contributions exacted from the people.
The condition of the Imáms is very different, in most respects,
from that of Christian priests. They have no authority above
other persons,
and do not enjoy any respect buy what their
reputed piety or learning may
obtain them: nor are they a
distinct order of men set apart for religious
offices, like our
clergy, and composing an indissoluble fraternity; for a
man who
has acted as the Imám of a mosque may be displaced by
the
warden of that mosque, and, with his employment and salary,
loses
the title of Imám, and has no better chance of
being again
chosen for religious minister than any other person
competent
to perform the office. The Imáms obtain their
livelihood chiefly
by other means than the service of the mosque, as their
salaries
are very small: that of a Khateeb being generally about a
piaster
(2 2/5d. of our money) per month; and that
of an ordinary Imám,
about five piasters. Some of them engage in
trade; several of
them are “'attárs” (or
druggists and perfumers), and many of
them are schoolmasters: those who
have no regular occupations
of these kinds often recite the
Kur-án for hire in private houses.
They are mostly chosen from
among the poor students of the
great mosque El-Azhar.
The large mosques are open from day-break till a little after

the 'eshë, or till
nearly two hours after sunset. The others are
closed between the hours of
morning and noon prayers; and
most mosques are also closed in rainy weather
(excepting at the
times of prayer), lest persons who have no shoes should
enter,
and dirt the pavement and matting. Such persons always enter by
the door nearest the tank or fountain (if there be more than one
door),
that they may wash before they pass into the place of
prayer; and generally
this door alone is left open in dirty weather.
The great mosque El-Azhar
remains open all night, with the exception
of the principal place of
prayer, which is called the “maksoorah,”
being
partitioned off from the rest of the building. In many of
the larger
mosques, particularly in the afternoon, persons are seen
lounging, chatting
together, eating, sleeping, and sometimes spinning
or sewing, or engaged in
some other simple craft; but,
notwithstanding such practices, which are
contrary to precepts of
their prophet, the Muslims very highly respect
their mosques.
There are several mosques in
Cairo (as the Azhar,
Hasaneyn,
etc.)
before which no Frank, or any other
Christian, nor a Jew,
were allowed to pass, till of late years, since the
French invasion.
On the Friday, half an hour before the “duhr” (or noon),
the
muëddins of the mosques ascend to the galleries of the
mád'nehs,
and chant the
“Selám,” which is a salutation to the Prophet,
not
always expressed in the same words, but generally in words to
the
following effect:—“Blessing and peace be on thee, O
thou
of great dignity! O Apostle of God! Blessing and peace be
on
thee, to whom the Truth said, I am God! Blessing and peace
be on thee, thou
first of the creatures of God, and seal of the
Apostles of God! From me be
peace on thee, on thee and on
thy Family and all thy
companions!”—Persons then begin to
assemble in the
mosques.
The utmost solemnity and decorum are observed in the public
worship of the
Muslims. Their looks and behaviour in the
mosque are not those of
enthusiastic devotion, but of calm and
modest piety. Never are they guilty
of a designedly irregular
word or action during their prayers. The pride
and fanaticism
which they exhibit in common life, in intercourse with
persons of
their own, or of a different faith, seem to be dropped on
their
entering the mosque, and they appear wholly absorbed in the
adoration of their Creator; humble and downcast, yet without
affected
humility, or a forced expression of countenance.
The Muslim takes off his shoes at the door of the mosque,
carries them in
his left hand, sole to sole, and puts his right foot

first over the threshold. If he
have not previously performed
the preparatory ablution, he repairs at once
to the tank or fountain
to acquit himself of that duty. Before he commences
his prayers,
he places his shoes (and his sword and pistols, if he have
such
arms) upon the matting, a little before the spot where his head
will touch the ground in prostration: his shoes are put one upon
the other,
sole to sole.
The people who assemble to perform the noon prayers of Friday
arrange
themselves in rows parallel to that side of the mosque in
which is the
niche, and facing that side. Many do not go until
the adán of
noon, or just before. When a person goes at, or
a little after, the
Selám, as soon as he has taken his place in one
of the ranks, he
performs two rek'ahs, and then remains sitting,
on his knees or
cross-legged, while a reader, having seated himself
on the reading-chair
immediately after the Selám, is occupied in
reciting (usually
without book) the Soorat el-Kahf (the 18th
chapter of the
Kur-án), or a part of it; for, generally, he has not
finished it
before the adán of noon, when he stops. All the congregation,
as
soon as they hear the adán (which is the same as on
other days),
sit on their knees and feet. When the adán is finished,
they
stand up, and perform, each separately, two
1 rek'ahs, “sunnet
el-gum'ah” (or the sunneh ordinance for Friday), which they
conclude, like the ordinary prayers, with the two salutations. A
servant of
the mosque, called a “Murakkee,” then opens the
folding-doors at the foot of the pulpit-stairs, takes from behind
them a
straight wooden sword, and, standing a little to the right
of the doorway,
with his right side towards the kibleh, holds this
sword in his right hand,
resting the point on the ground. In this
position he says,
“Verily God favoureth, and His angels bless, the
Prophet. O ye
who believe, bless him, and greet him with a
salutation!”
2 Then one or more
persons, called “Muballighs,”
stationed on the
dikkeh, chant the following, or similar words.
3
“O God! favour and preserve and bless the most noble of
the
Arabs and 'Agam [or foreigners], the Imám of Mekkeh and
El-Medeeneh
and the Temple, to whom the spider showed favour,
and wove
its web in the cave; and whom the dabb
4 saluted, and
1 If of the sect of the Sháfe'ees, to
which most of the people of Cairo
belong; but if of that of the
Hanafees, four rek'ahs.
2 Kur-án, chap. xxxiii., v. 56.
3 There are some trifling differences in the
forms of salutations of the
Prophet in the Friday-prayers in different
mosques; I describe what is most
common.
4 A kind of lizard, the lacerta Libyca.

before whom the moon was cloven in
twain, our lord Mohammad,
and his Family and Companions!” The
Murakkee then recites
the adán (which the Muëddins
have already chanted): after every
few words he pauses, and the Muballighs
on the dikkeh repeat
the same words in a sonorous chant.
1 Before the
adán is finished,
the Khateeb, or Imám, comes to the
foot of the pulpit, takes the
wooden sword from the Murakkee's hand,
ascends the pulpit, and
sits on the top step or platform. The pulpit of a
large mosque
on this day is decorated with two flags, with the profession
of the
faith, or the names of God and Mohammad, worked upon them:
these are fixed at the top of the stairs, slanting forward. The
Murakkee
and Muballighs having finished the adán, the former
repeats a
tradition of the Prophet, saying, “The Prophet (upon
whom be
blessing and peace!) hath said, ‘If thou say unto thy
companion
while the Imám is preaching on Friday, Be thou silent,
thou
speakest rashly.' Be ye silent: ye shall be rewarded: God
shall recompense
you.” He then sits down. The Khateeb now
rises, and, holding the
wooden sword
2 in the
same manner as the
Murakkee did, delivers an exhortation, called
“khutbet el-waaz.”
As the reader may be curious to
see a translation of a Muslim
sermon, I insert one. The following is a
sermon preached on
the first Friday of the Arab year.
3 The original, as
usual, is in
rhyming prose.
1 In the great mosque El-Azhar there are several
Muballighs in different
places, to make the adán heard to
the whole congregation.
2 To commemorate the acquisition of Egypt by the
sword. It is never used
by the Khateeb but in a country or town that
has been so acquired by the
Muslims from unbelievers.
3 During my first visit to Egypt I went to the
great mosque El-Azhar, to
witness the performance of the Friday-prayers
by the largest congregation in
Cairo. I was pleased with the preaching
of the Khateeb of the mosque, Gád-El-Mowla,
and afterwards
procured his sermon-book (“deewán
khutab”),
containing sermons for every Friday in the year,
and for the two “'eeds,” or
grand festivals. I
translate the first sermon.
“Praise be to God, the renewer of years, and the multiplier of
favours, and the creator of months and days, according to the most
perfect
wisdom and most admirable regulation; who hath dignified
the months of the
Arabs above all other months, and pronounced
that among the more excellent
of them is El-Moharram the
Sacred, and commenced with it the year, as He
hath closed it
with Zu-l-Heggeh. How propitious is the beginning, and
how
good is the end!
4 [I extol] His perfection, exempting Him from
4 The year begins and ends with a sacred month.
The sacred months are
four: the first, seventh, eleventh, and twelfth.
During these, war was forbidden
to be waged against such as
acknowledged them to be sacred, but was afterwards
allowed. The first
month is also held to be excellent on account of the
day of 'A'shoora
(respecting which see Chap. XXIV. of this work); and the
last, on
account of the pilgrimage.

the association of any other deity
with Him. He hath well considered
what He hath formed, and established what
He hath
contrived, and He alone hath the power to create and to
annihilate.
I praise Him, extolling His perfection, and exalting His
name, for the knowledge and inspiration which He hath graciously
vouchsafed; and I testify that there is no deity but God alone;
He hat no
companion; He is the most holy King; the [God
of] peace: and I testify that
our Lord and our Prophet and our
friend Mohammad is His servant, and His
apostle, and His elect,
and His friend, the guide of the way, and the lamp
of the dark.
O God! favour and preserve and bless this noble Prophet,
and
chief and excellent apostle, the merciful-hearted, our lord
Mohammad,
and his family, and his companions, and his wives, and
his
posterity, and the people of his house, the noble persons, and
preserve
them amply! O servants of God! your lives have been
gradually curtailed,
and year after year hath passed away, and ye
are sleeping on the bed of
indolence and on the pillow of iniquity.
Ye pass by the tombs of your
predecessors, and fear not the
assault of destiny and destruction, as if
others departed from the
world and ye must of necessity remain in it. Ye
rejoice at the
arrival of new years, as if they brought an increase to the
term of
life, and swim in the seas of desires, and enlarge your hopes,
and
in every way exceed other people [in presumption], and ye are
sluggish in doing good. O how great a calamity is this! God
teacheth by an
allegory. Know ye not that in the curtailment of
time by indolence and
sleep there is very great trouble? Know
ye not that in the cutting short of
lives by the termination of years
is a very great warning? Know ye not that
the night and day
divide the lives of numerous souls? Know ye not that
health
and capacity are two blessings coveted by many men? But the
truth hath become manifest to him who hath eyes. Ye are now
between two
years: one year hath passed away, and come to an
end, with its evils; and
ye have entered upon another year, in
which, if it please God, mankind
shall be relieved. Is any of you
determining upon diligence [in doing good]
in the year of come?
or repenting of his failings in the times that are
passed? The
happy is he who maketh amends for the time passed in the
time
to come; and the miserable is he whose days pass away, and he

is careless of his time. This new
year hath arrived, and the sacred
month of God hath come with blessings to
you—the first of the
months of the year, and of the four sacred
months, as hath been
said, and the most worthy of preference and honour and
reverence.
Its fast is the most excellent of fasts after that which is
incumbent,
1 and
the doing of good in it is among the most excellent
of the objects of
desire. Whosoever desireth to reap advantage
from it, let him fast the
ninth and tenth days, looking for
aid.
2 Abstain not from this fast through indolence, and
esteeming
it a hardship; but comply with it in the best manner, and
honour it with the best of honours, and improve your time by the
worship of
God morning and evening. Turn unto God with
repentance, before the assault
of death: He is the God who
accepteth repentance of His servants, and
pardoneth sins.—
The
Tradition.
3—The
Apostle of God (God favour and preserve him!)
hath said, ‘The
most excellent prayer, after the prescribed,
4 is
the prayer that is said in the last third of
the night; and the most
excellent fast, after Ramadán, is that
of the month of God, El-Moharram.”'
1 That of the month of Ramadán.
2 See an account of the customs observed in
honour of the day of 'A'shoora,
chap. xxiv.
3 The Khateeb always closes his exhortation with
one or two traditions of
the Prophet.
4 The five daily prayers ordained by the
Kur-án.
The Khateeb, having concluded his exhortation, says to the
congregation,
“Supplicate God.” He then sits down, and prays
privately; and each member of the congregation at the same time
offers up
some private petition, as after the ordinary prayers, holding
his hands
before him (looking at the palms), and then drawing
them down his face.
This done, the Muballighs say, “A'meen!
A'meen! (Amen! Amen!) O
Lord of all creatures!” —The
Khateeb now rises again,
and recites another Khutbeh, called
“khutbet
en-naat,” of which the following is a translation:—
5
5 This is always the same, or nearly so.
“Praise be to God, abundant praise, as He hath commanded!
I
testify that there is no deity but God alone: He hath no companion:
affirming His supremacy, and condemning him who
denieth and disbelieveth:
and I testify that our lord and our
prophet Mohammad is His servant and His
apostle, the lord of
mankind, the intercessor, the accepted intercessor, on
the day of
assembling: God favour him and his family as long as the
eye
seeth and the ear heareth! O people! reverence God by doing

what He hath commanded, and abstain
from that which He hath
forbidden and prohibited. The happy is he who
obeyeth, and
the miserable is he who opposeth and sinneth. Know that
the
present world is a transitory abode, and that the world to come
is
a lasting abode. Make provision, therefore, in your transitory
state for
your lasting state, and prepare for your reckoning and
standing before your
Lord: for know that ye shall to-morrow be
placed before God, and reckoned
with according to your deeds;
and before the Lord of Might ye shall be
present, ‘and those
who have acted unjustly shall know with what
an overthrowal they
shall be overthrown.'
1 Know that God, whose perfection I
extol,
and whose name be exalted, hath said (and ceaseth not to say
wisely, and to command judiciously, warning you, and teaching,
and
honouring the dignity of your Prophet, extolling and magnifying
him),
‘Verily, God favoureth, and His angels bless, the
Prophet: O ye
who believe, bless him, and greet him with a
salutation!”
2 O God! favour
Mohammad and the family of
Mohammad, as Thou favouredst
Ibráheem
3 and the family of
Ibráheem; and bless Mohammad and the
family of Mohammad,
as Thou blessedst Ibráheem and the family of
Ibráheem among
all creatures—for Thou art
praiseworthy and glorious! O
God! do Thou also be well pleased with the
four Khaleefehs,
the orthodox lords, of high dignity and illustrious
honour,
Aboo-Bekr Es-Siddeek, and ‘Omar, and
‘Osmán, and 'Alee;
and be Thou well pleased, O God!
with the six who remained
of the ten noble and just persons who swore
allegiance
to thy Prophet Mohammad (God favour and preserve
him!)
under the tree; (for Thou art the Lord of Piety, and the
Lord of pardon,)
those persons of excellence and clemency, and
rectitude and prosperity,
Talhah, and Ez-Zubeyr, and Saad, and
Sa'eed, and 'Abd-Er-Rahmán
Ibn-'Owf, and Aboo-'Obeydeh 'A'mir
Ibn-El-Garráh; and with all
the Companions of the Apostle of
God! (God favour and preserve him!); and
be Thou well pleased,
O God! with the two martyred descendants, the two
bright
moons, ‘the two lords of the youths of the people of
Paradise
in Paradise,' the two sweet-smelling flowers of the Prophet of
this
nation, Aboo-Mohammad El-Hasan, and Aboo-'Abd-Allah El-Hoseyn:
and be Thou well pleased, O God! with their mother,
the daughter of the
Apostle of God (God favour and preserve
him!), Fátimeh Ez-Zahra,
and with their grandmother Khadeegeh
1 Kur-án, chap. xxvi., last verse.
2 Idem., chap. xxxiii., v. 56.

El-Kubra, and with 'A'isheh, the
mother of the faithful, and with
the rest of the pure wives, and with the
generation which succeeded
the Companions, and the generation which
succeeded
that, with beneficence to the day of judgment! O God! pardon
the believing men and the believing women, and the Muslim men
and the
Muslim women, those who are living, and the dead; for
Thou art a hearer
near, an answerer of prayers, O Lord of all
creatures! O God! aid
El-Islám, and strengthen its pillars, and
make infidelity to
tremble, and destroy its might, by the preservation
of Thy servant, and the
son of Thy servant, the submissive to
the might of Thy majesty and glory,
whom God hath aided, by
the care of the Adored King, our master the
Sultán, son of the
Sultán, the Sultán
Mahmood
1
Khán: may God assist him, and
prolong [his reign]! O God! assist
him, and assist his armies!
O Thou Lord of the religion, and of the world
present, and the
world to come! O Lord of all creatures! O God! assist
the
forces of the Muslims, and the armies of the Unitarians! O God!
frustrate the infidels and polytheists, thine enemies, the enemies
of the
religion! O God! invert their banners, and ruin their
habitations, and give
them and their wealth as booty to the
Muslims!
2 O God! unloose the captivity of the
captives, and
annul the debts of the debtors; and make this town to be
safe
and secure, and blessed with wealth and plenty, and all the towns
of the Muslims, O Lord of all creatures! And decree safety and
health to us
and to all travellers, and pilgrims, and warriors, and
wanderers, upon Thy
earth, and upon Thy sea, such as are Muslims,
O Lord of all creatures!
‘O Lord! we have acted unjustly
towards our own souls, and if
Thou do not forgive us and be
merciful unto us, we shall surely be of those
who perish.'
3 I
beg
of God, the Great, that He may forgive me and you, and all the
people of Mohammad, the servants of God. ‘Verily God commandeth
justice, and the doing of good, and giving [what is due]
to kindred; and
forbiddeth wickedness, and iniquity, and oppression:
He admonisheth you
that ye may reflect.'
4
Remember
God; He will remember you: and thank Him; He will increase
to
you [your blessings]. Praise be to God, the Lord of all
creatures!”
1 The reigning Sultán at the time
when the above was written.
2 This sentence, beginning “O God,
frustrate,” was not inserted in one copy
of this prayer,
which I obtained from an Imám. Another Imám, at whose
dictation
I wrote the copy here translated, told me that this sentence
and some
others were often omitted.
3 Kur-án, chap. viii., v. 22.
4 Ibid., chap. xvi., v.
92.
During the rise of the Nile, a good inundation is also prayed for
in this
Khutbeh. The Khateeb, or Imám, having ended it, descends
from
the pulpit, and the Muballighs chant the
“ikámeh” (described
in page 66): the
Imám, stationed before the niche, then
recites the
“fard” prayers of Friday, which consist of two
rek'ahs,
and are similar to the ordinary prayers. The people do the
same, but silently, and keeping time exactly with the Imám in
the various postures. Those who are of the Málikee sect then
leave the mosque; and so also do many persons of the other
sects: but some
of the Sháfe'ees and Hanafees (there are scarcely
any Hambel'ees
in
Cairo) remain, and recite the
ordinary fard
prayers of noon; forming a number of separate groups, in each
of which one
acts as Imám. The rich, on going out of the
mosque, often give
alms to the poor outside the door.
There are other prayers to be performed on particular
occasions—on
the two grand annual festivals, on the nights of
Ramadán
(the month of abstinence), on the occasion of an eclipse
of the
sun or moon, for rain, previously to the commencement of
battle,
in pilgrimage, and at funerals.
I have spoken thus fully of Muslim worship because my countrymen
in general
have very imperfect and erroneous notions on
this subject; many of them
even imagining that the Muslims
ordinarily pray to their Prophet as well as to God. Invocations
to the Prophet, for his
intercession, are, indeed, frequently made,
particularly at his tomb, where pious visitors generally say,
“We
ask thy intercession, O Apostle of God!” The
Muslims also
even implore the intercession of their numerous saints.
The duty next in importance to prayer is that of giving
alms.
Certain alms are prescribed by law, and are called
“zekah”:
others, called
“sadakah,” are voluntary. The former, or obligatory
alms, were, in the earlier ages of El-Islám, collected by
officers appointed by the sovereign, for pious uses, such as building
mosques, etc.; but now it is left to the Muslim's conscience to
give them,
and to apply them in what manner he thinks fit; that
is, to bestow them
upon whatever needy persons he may choose.
They are to be given once in
every year, of cattle and sheep,
generally in the proportion of one in
forty, two in a hundred and
twenty; of camels, for every five, a ewe; or
for twenty-five, a
pregnant camel; and likewise of money, and, among the
Hanafees,
of merchandize, etc. He who has money to the amount of
two
hundred dirhems (or drams) of silver, or twenty mitkáls (
i.e.,
thirty drams) of gold (or, among the Hanafees,
the value of the

above in gold or silver ornaments,
utensils, etc.), must annually
give the fortieth part (“ruba
el-'oshr”), or the value of that part.
Fasting is the next duty. The Muslim is commanded to
fast
during the whole month of Ramadán
1 every day, from the first
appearance of daybreak, or rather from the hour when there is
sufficient
light for a person to distinguish plainly a white thread
from a black
thread
2 (about two
hours before sunrise in Egypt),
until sunset. He must abstain from eating,
drinking, smoking,
smelling perfumes, and every unnecessary indulgence or
pleasure
of a worldly nature; even from intentionally swallowing his
spittle.
When Ramadán falls in summer,
3 the fast is very severe; the
abstinence from drinking being most painfully felt. Persons who
are sick,
or on a journey, and soldiers in time of war, are not
obliged to observe
the fast during Ramadán; but if they do not
keep it in this
month they should fast an equal number of days
at a future time. Fasting is
also to be dispensed with in the
cases of a nurse and a pregnant woman. The
Prophet even disapproved
of any person's keeping the fast of
Ramadán if not
perfectly able; and desired no man to fast so
much as to injure
his health, or disqualify himself for necessary labour.
The
modern Muslims seem to regard the fast of Ramadán as of
more
importance than any other religious act, for many of them keep
this fast who neglect their daily prayers; and even those who
break the
fast, with very few exceptions, pretend to keep it.
Many Muslims of the
wealthy classes eat and drink in secret
during Ramadán; but the
greater number strictly keep the fast,
which is fatal to numerous persons
in a weak state of health.
There are some other days on which it is
considered meritorious
to fast, but not absolutely necessary. On the two
grand festivals,
namely, that following Ramadán, and that which
succeeds the
pilgrimage, it is
unlawful to do so,
being expressly forbidden by
the Prophet.
1 Because the Prophet received the first
revelation in that month.
2 Kur-án, chap. ii., v. 183.
3 The year being lunar, each month retrogrades
through all the seasons in
the course of about thirty-three years and a
half.
The last of the four most important duties, that of
pilgrimage,
remains to be noticed. It is incumbent on every Muslim
to
perform, once in his life, the pilgrimage to Mekkeh and Mount
'Arafát, unless poverty or ill health prevent him; or, if a
Hanafee,
he may send a deputy, whose expenses he must pay.
4 Many,
4 A Málikee is held bound to perform
the pilgrimage if strong enough to
bear the journey on foot, and able
to earn his food on the way.

however, neglect the duty of
pilgrimage who cannot plead a
lawful excuse; and they are not reproached
for so doing. It is
not merely by the visit to Mekkeh, and the performance
of the
ceremonies of compassing the Kaabeh seven times and kissing
the
“black stone” in each round, and other rites in the
Holy
City, that the Muslim acquires the title of
“el-hágg”
1 (or the
pilgrim): the final object
of the pilgrimage is Mount 'Arafát,
six hours' journey distant
from Mekkeh. During his performance
of the required ceremonies in Mekkeh,
and also during his
journey to 'Arafát, and until his completion
of the pilgrimage, the
Muslim wears a peculiar dress, called
“ehrám” (vulgarly herám),
generally consisting of two simple pieces of cotton, or linen, or
woollen
cloth, without seam or ornament, one of which is wrapped
round the loins,
and the other thrown over the shoulders: the
instep and heel of each foot,
and the head, must be bare; but
umbrellas are now used by many of the
pilgrims. It is necessary
that the pilgrim be present on the occasion of a
Khutbeh which
is recited on Mount 'Arafát in the afternoon of
the 9th of the
month of Zu-l-Heggeh. In the ensuing evening, after sunset,
the
pilgrims commence their return to Mekkeh. Halting the following
day in the valley of Mina (or, as it is more commonly called,
Muna), they
complete the ceremonies of the pilgrimage by a
sacrifice (of one or more
male sheep, he-goats, cows, or she-camels,
part of the flesh of which they
eat, and part give to the
poor), and by shaving the head and clipping the
nails. Every
one, after this, resumes his usual dress, or puts on a new
one, if
provided with such. The sacrifice is called
“el-fida” (or the
ransom), as it is performed in
commemoration of the ransom of
Isma'eel (or Ishmael) by the sacrifice of
the ram, when he was
himself about to have been offered up by his father;
for it is the
general opinion of the Muslims that it was this son, not
Isaac,
who was to have been sacrificed by his father.
1 On the pronunciation of this word, see a note
to the second paragraph of
Chapter V., p. 120.
There are other ordinances, more or less connected with those
which have
been already explained.
The two festivals called “el-'Eed es-Sugheiyir,”
2 or the Minor
Festival, and ‘el-'Eed el-Kebeer,” or the Great Festival,
the
occasions of which have been mentioned above, are observed
with
public prayer and general rejoicing. The first of these lasts
2 More properly “Sagheer.”
This is what many travellers have incorrectly
called “the
Great Festival.”

three days; and the second, three
or four days. The festivities
with which they are celebrated will be
described in a subsequent
chapter. On the first day of the latter festival
(it being the
day on which the pilgrims perform their sacrifice) every
Muslim
should slay a victim, if he can afford to purchase one. The
wealthy person slays several sheep, or a sheep or two, and a
buffalo, and
distributes the greater portion of the meat to the
poor. The slaughter may
be performed by a deputy.
War against enemies of El-Islám, who have been the first
aggressors, is enjoined as a sacred duty; and he who loses his
life in
fulfilling this duty, if unpaid, is promised the rewards of a
martyr. It
has been said, even by some of their leading doctors,
that the Muslims are
commanded to put to death all idolaters
who refuse to embrace
El-Islám excepting women and children,
whom they are to make
slaves:
1 but the
precepts on which this
assertion is founded relate to the Pagan Arabs, who
had violated
their oaths and long persevered in their hostility to
Mohammad
and his followers. According to the decisions of the most
reasonable doctors, the laws respecting other idolaters, as well as
Christians and Jews, who have drawn upon themselves the
hostility of the
Muslims, are different: of such enemies, if reduced
by force of arms,
refusing to capitulate or to surrender
themselves, the men may be put to
death or be made slaves, and
the women and children also, under the same
circumstances,
may be made slaves: but life and liberty are to be granted
to
those enemies who surrender themselves by capitulation or
otherwise,
on the condition of their embracing El-Islám or
paying a
poll-tax, unless they have acted perfidiously towards the
Muslims,
as did the Jewish tribe of Kureydhah, who, being in league
with Mohammad, went over to his enemies and aided them
against him: for
which conduct, when they surrendered, the men
were slain, and the women and
children were made slaves.—The
Muslims, it may here be added,
are forbidden to contract intimate
friendship with unbelievers.
1 Misled by the decision of those doctors, and
an opinion prevalent in
Europe, I represented the laws of
“holy war” as more severe than I find
them to be
according to the letter and spirit of the Kur-án, when
carefully
examined, and according to the Hanafee code. I am indebted to
Mr.
Urquhart for suggesting to me the necessity of revising my former
statement
on this subject; and must express my conviction that no
precept is to be
found in the Kur-án which, taken with the
context, can justify unprovoked
war.
There are certain prohibitory laws in the Kur-án which must
be
mentioned here, as remarkably affecting the moral and social
condition of
its disciples.
Wine, and all inebriating liquors, are forbidden, as being the
cause of
“more evil than profit.”
1 Many of the Muslims, however,
in
the present day, drink wine, brandy, etc., in secret; and
some, thinking it
no sin to indulge thus in moderation, scruple
not to do so openly; but
among the Egyptians there are few
who transgress in this flagrant manner.
“Boozeh,” or “boozah,”
which is
an intoxicating liquor made with barley-bread, crumbled,
mixed with water,
strained, and left to ferment, is commonly
drunk by the boatmen of the
Nile, and by other persons of the
lower orders.
2 Opium, and other drugs which produce a
similar
effect, are considered unlawful, though not mentioned in the
Kur-án; and persons who are addicted to the use of these drugs
are regarded as immoral characters; but in Egypt, such persons
are not very
numerous. Some Muslims have pronounced tobacco,
and even coffee, unlawful.
1 Kur-án, chap. ii., v. 216. A kind of wine, formerly called
“nebeedh”
(a name now given to prohibited kinds),
may be lawfully drunk. This is
generally an infusion of dry grapes, or
dry dates. The Muslims used to keep
it until it had slightly fermented;
and the Prophet himself was accustomed to
drink it, but not when it was
more than two days old. The nebeedh of raisins
is now called
“zebeeb.”
2 A similar beverage, thus prepared from barley,
was used by the ancient
Egyptians. (Herodotus, lib. ii., cap. 77.) The
modern inhabitants of Egypt
also prepare boozeh from wheat and from
millet in the same manner, but less
commonly.
The eating of swine's flesh is strictly forbidden. The unwholesome
effects
of that meat in a hot climate would be a sufficient
reason for the
prohibition; but the pig is held in abhorrence by
the Muslim chiefly an
account of its extremely filthy habits.
3
Most animals prohibited for food by the Mosaic law are alike
forbidden to the Muslim. The camel is an exception. The
Muslim is
“forbidden [to eat] that which dieth of itself, and
blood, and
swine's flesh, and that on which the name of any
beside God hath been
invoked; and that which hath been
strangled or killed by a blow, or by a
fall, or by the horns [of
another beast]; and that which hath been [partly]
eaten by a
wild beast, except what he shall [himself] kill; and that
which
hath been sacrificed unto idols.”
4 An animal that is killed for
3 Swine were universally deemed impure by the
ancient Egyptians.
(Herodotus, lib. ii., cap. 47.)
4 Kur-án, chap. v., v. 4.

the food of man must be slaughtered
in a particular manner: the
person who is about to perform the operation
must say, “In the
name of God! God is most great!”
and then cut its throat, at
the part next the head, taking care to divide
the windpipe, gullet,
and carotid arteries; unless it be a camel, in which
case he
should
stab the throat at the part next the
breast. It is forbidden
to utter, in slaughtering an animal, the phrase
which is so often
made use of on other occasions, “In the name
of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful!” because the mention of
the most
benevolent epithets of the Deity on such an occasion would
seem
like a mockery of the sufferings which it is about to endure.
Some persons in Egypt, but mostly women, when about to kill
an animal for
food, say, “In the name of God! God is most
great! God give thee
patience to endure the affliction which
He hath allotted
thee!”
1
If the sentiment which first dictated
this prayer were always felt, it
would present a beautiful trait in
the character of the people who use it.
In cases of necessity,
when in danger of starving, the Muslim is allowed to
eat any
food which is unlawful under other circumstances. The made
of
slaughter above described is, of course, only required to be
practised in
the cases of domestic animals. Most kinds of fish
are lawful food:
2 so also are many
birds; the tame kinds of
which must be killed in the same manner as cattle;
but the wild
may be shot. The hare, rabbit, gazelle, etc., are lawful
food,
and may either be shot, or killed by a dog, provided the name of
God was uttered at the time of discharging the arrow, etc., or
slipping the
dog, and he (the dog) has not eaten any part of the
prey. This animal,
however, is considered very unclean: the
Sháfe'ees hold
themselves to be polluted by the touch of its
nose, if it be wet; and if
any part of their clothes be so touched,
they must wash that part with
seven waters, and once with clean
earth: some others are only careful not
to let the animal lick, or
defile in a worse manner, their persons or their
dress, etc. When
game has been struck down by any weapon, but not killed,
its
throat must be immediately cut: otherwise it is unlawful food.
1 The Arabic words of this prayer,
“God give thee patience,” etc., are,
“Allah yesabbirak (for yusabbirak) 'ala má
belák.”
2 In some respects the Muslim code does not
appear to be so strictly
founded upon exigencies of a sanatory nature
as the Mosaic. See Leviticus
xi. 9–12. In Egypt, fish which
have not scales are generally found to be
unwholesome food. One of the
few reasonable laws of El-Hákim was that
which forbade the
selling or catching such kinds of fish. See De Sacy,
“Chrestomathie Arabe,” 2nde ed., tome i., p.
98.
Gambling and usury are prohibited,
1 and all games of chance;
and likewise the making
of images or pictures of anything that
has life.
2 The Prophet declared that every
representation of this
kind would be placed before its author on the day of
judgment,
and that he would be commanded to put life into it; which
not
being able to do, he would be cast, for a time, into hell.
1 It is unlawful to give or receive interest,
however small, for a loan, or on
account of credit; and to exchange any
article for another article of the same
species, but differing in
quantity. These and several other commercial transactions
of a similar
kind are severely condemned; but they are not very
uncommon among
modern Muslims, some of whom take exorbitant interest.
2 Many of the Muslims hold that only sculptures
which cast a shadow,
representing living creatures, are unlawful; but
the Prophet certainly condemned
pictures also.
The principal civil and criminal
laws remain to be stated.
Their origin we discover partly in customs
of the Pagan Arabs,
but mostly in the Jewish Scriptures and traditions.
The civil and criminal laws are chiefly and immediately derived
from the
Kur-án
3; but, in many important cases, this highest
authority affords no
precept. In most of these cases the Traditions
of the Prophet direct the
decisions of the judge.
4 There
are, however, some important cases, and many of an inferior
kind,
respecting which both the Kur-án and the Traditions are
silent or
undecisive. These are determined by the explanations and
amplifications derived either from the concordance of the principal
early
disciples, or from analogy, by the four great Imáms, or
founders
of the four orthodox sects of El-Islám; generally on the
authority of the Imám of that sect to which the ruling power
belongs, which sect, in Egypt, and throughout the Turkish
Empire, is that
of the Hanafees: or, if none of the decisions of
the Imám relate
to a case in dispute (which not unfrequently
happens), judgment is given in
accordance with a sentence of
some other eminent doctor, founded upon
analogy.—In general,
only the principal laws, as laid down in
the Kur-án and the Traditions,
will be here stated.
3 A law given in the Kur-án is called
“fard.”
4 A law derived from the Traditions is called
“sunneh.”
The laws relating to
marriage and the licence of
polygamy, the
facility of
divorce allowed by the Kur-án, and the permission of
concubinage, are essentially the natural and necessary
consequences
of the main principle of the constitution of Muslim
society—the
restriction of the intercourse between the sexes
before marriage.
Few men would marry if he who was disappointed in a wife
whom
he had never seen before were not allowed to take another; and

in the case of a man's doing this,
his own happiness, or that of
the former wife, or the happiness of both
these parties, may
require his either retaining this wife of divorcing her.
But I
hope that my reader will admit a much stronger reason for these
laws, regarding them as designed for the
Muslims. As the
Mosaic
code allowed God's chosen people, for the hardness of their
hearts,
to put away their wives, and forbade neither polygamy nor
concubinage,
he who believes that Moses was divinely inspired, to
enact the best laws for his people, must hold the permission of
these
practices to be less injurious to morality than their prohibition,
among a
people similar to the ancient Jews. Their
permission, though certainly
productive of injurious effects upon
morality and domestic happiness,
prevents a profligacy that would
be worse than that which prevails to so
great a degree in European
countries, where parties are united in marriage
after an intimate
mutual acquaintance. As to the licence of polygamy,
which
seems to be unfavourable to the accomplishment of the main
object for which marriage was instituted, as well as to the exercise
and
improvement of the nobler powers of the mind, we should
remark that it was
not introduced, but limited, by the legislator
of the Muslims. It is true
that he assumed to himself the
privilege of having a greater number of
waves than he allowed to
others; but, in doing so, he may have been
actuated by the want
of male offspring, rather than impelled by
voluptuousness.
The law respecting marriage and concubinage is perfectly
explicit as to the
number of wives whom a Muslim may have at
the same time; but it is not so
with regard to the number of
concubine-slaves whom he may have. It is
written, “Take in
marriage, of the women who please you, two,
three, or four; but
if ye fear that ye cannot act equitably [to so many,
take] one; or
[take] those whom your right hands have
acquired,”
1 that is, your
slaves. Therefore many of the wealthy Muslims marry
two,
three, or four wives, and keep besides several concubine-slaves;
and many of the most revered characters, even Companions of
the Prophet,
are recorded to have done the same. The conduct
of the later clearly shows
that the number of concubine-slaves
whom a man may have is not limited by
the law in the opinion
of the orthodox.
2
1 Kur-án, chap. iv., v. 3.
2 Some Muslim moralists argue, that, as four
wives are a sufficient number
for one man, so also are four
concubine-slaves, or four women consisting of
these two classes
together; but, notwithstanding what Sale and some other
learned men
have asserted on this subject, the Muslim law certainly does not
limit
the number of concubine-slaves whom a man may have, whether in
addition
to, or without, a wife or wives.

It is held lawful for a Muslim to marry a Christian or a Jewish
woman, if
induced to do so by excessive love of her, or if he
cannot obtain a wife of
his own faith; but in this case of offspring
must follow the father's
faith,
1 and the
wife does not
inherit when the father dies. A Muslim'eh, however, is
not
allowed under any circumstances, but when force is employed, to
marry a man who is not of her own faith. A man is forbidden,
by the
Kur-án
2
and the Sunneh, to marry his mother, or other
ascendant; his daughter, or
other descendant; his sister, or half-sister;
the sister of his father or
mother, or other ascendant; his
niece, or any of her descendants; his
foster-mother,
3 or
a woman
related to him by milk in any of the degrees which would
preclude
his marriage with her if she were similarly related to him
by
consanguinity; the mother of his wife, even if he have not
consummated his
marriage with this wife; the daughter of his
wife if he have consummated
his marriage with the latter, and she
be still his wife; his father's wife,
and his son's wife; and to
have at the same time two wives who are sisters,
or aunt and
niece: he is forbidden also to marry his unemancipated slave,
or
another man's slave, if he have already a free wife. It is lawful
for the Muslim to see the faces of these women whom he is forbidden
to
marry, but of no others, excepting his own wives and
female slaves. The
marriage of a man and woman, or of a man
and a girl who has arrived at
puberty, is lawfully effected by their
declaring (which the latter
generally does by a “wekeel,” or
deputy) their
consent to marry each other, in the presence of two
witnesses (if witnesses
can be procured), and by the payment, or
part-payment, of a dowry. But the
consent of a girl under the
age of puberty is not required; her father, or,
if he be dead, her
nearest adult male relation, or any person appointed as
her
guardian by will or by the Kádee, acting for her as he
pleases.
4
The giving of a dowry is indispensable, and the least sum that is
allowed by law is ten “dirhems” (or drachms of silver),
which is
1 In like manner, when a Christian man marries a
Jewess, the Muslim law
requires the offspring to profess
“the better faith,” namely, the Christian, if
unwilling to embrace El-Islám.
3 By the Hanafee code, a man may not marry a
woman from whose breast
he has received a single drop of milk; but
Esh-Sháfe'ee does not prohibit the
marriage unless he has
been suckled by her five times in the course of the first
two years.
4 A boy may be thus married; but he may divorce
his wife.

equal to about five shillings of
our money. A man may legally
marry a woman without mentioning a dowry; but
after the consummation
of the marriage she can, in this case, compel him
to
pay the sum of ten dirhems.
1
1 Whatever property the wife receives from her
husband, parents, or any
other person, is entirely at her own disposal,
and not subject to any claim of
her husband or his creditors.
A man may divorce his wife twice, and each time take her
back without any
ceremony, excepting in a case to be mentioned
below; but if he divorce her
the third time, or put her away by
a triple divorce conveyed in one
sentence, he cannot receive
her again until she has been married and
divorced by another
husband, who must have consummated his marriage with
her.
2
When a man divorces his wife (which he does by merely saying,
“Thou art divorced,” or “I divorce
thee”), he pays her a portion
of her dowry (generally
one-third), which he had kept back from
the first, to be paid on this
occasion, or at his death; and she
takes away with her the furniture, etc.,
which she brought at her
marriage. He may thus put her away from mere
dislike,
3 and
without assigning any reason; but a woman cannot separate
herself from her
husband against his will, unless it be for some
considerable fault on his
part, as cruel treatment, or neglect; and
even then, application to the
Kádee's court is generally necessary
to compel the man to
divorce her; and she forfeits the above-mentioned
remnant of the dowry.
2 Kur-án, chap. ii., vv. 229, 230.
3 As the Mosaic law also allows. See Deut. xxiv.
I.
The first and second divorce, if made without any mutual
agreement for a
compensation from the woman, or a pecuniary
sacrifice on her part, is
termed “talák reg'ee” (a divorce which
admits of return); because the husband may take back his wife,
without her
consent, during the period of her “'eddeh” (which
will be presently explained), but not after, unless with her consent,
and
by a new contract. If he divorce her the first or second
time for a
compensation, she perhaps requesting, “Divorce me
for what thou
owest me,” or “—hast of mine” (that
is, of the
dowry, furniture, etc.), or for an additional sum, he cannot
take
her again but by her own consent, and by a new contract. This
is
a “talák báïn” (or
separating divorce), and is termed “the
lesser
separation,” to distinguish it from the third divorce, which
is
called “the greater separation.” The
“'eddeh” is the period
during which a divorced woman
or a widow must wait before
marrying again,—in either case, if
pregnant, until delivery; otherwise

the former must wait three lunar
periods, or three months,
and the latter, four months and ten days. A woman
who is
divorced when in a state of pregnancy, though she may make a
new contract of marriage immediately after her delivery, must
wait forty
days longer before she can complete her marriage by
receiving her husband.
The man who divorces his wife must
maintain her in his own house, or in
that of her parents, or elsewhere,
during the period of her 'eddeh, but
must cease to live
with her as her husband from the commencement of that
period.
A divorced woman who has a son under two years of age may
retain him until he has attained that age, and may be compelled to
do so by
the law of the Sháfe'ees, and by the law of the
Málikees,
until he has arrived at puberty, but the Hanafee law
limits the
period during which the boy should remain under her care to
seven
years: her daughter she should retain until nine years of age,
or
the period of puberty. If a man divorce his wife before the
consummation
of marriage, he must pay her half the sum which he
has
promised to give her as a dowry, or, if he have promised no
dowry, he must
pay her the half of the smallest dowry allowed by
law, which has been above
mentioned, and she may marry again
immediately.
When a wife refuses to obey to lawful commands of her husband,
he may, and
generally does, take her, or two witnesses
1
against her, to the Kádee's court, to prefer a complaint
against
her; and, if the case be proved, a certificate is written
declaring
the woman “náshizeh,” or
rebellious against her husband. This
process is termed “writing
a woman náshizeh.” It exempts her
husband from
obligation to lodge, clothe, and maintain her. He
is not obliged to divorce
her; and, by refusing to do this, he may
prevent her marrying another man
as long as he lives; but, if she
promise to be obedient afterwards, he must
take her back, and
maintain her, or divorce her. It is more common,
however, for
a wife whose husband refuses to divorce her, if she have
parents
or other relations able and willing to support her comfortably,
to
make a complaint at the Kádee's court, stating her
husband's
conduct to be of such a nature towards her that she will not
live
with him, and thus cause herself to be registered
“náshizeh,” and
separated from him. In
this case, the husband generally persists,
from mere spite, in refusing to
divorce her.
1 The witnesses must always be Muslims in
accusations against a person of
the same faith.
As concubines are
slaves, some account of slaves in
general

may her be appropriately inserted,
with a statement of the
principal laws respecting concubines and their
offspring, etc.—
The slaves is either a person taken captive in
war, or carried off
by force from a foreign hostile country, and being at
the time of
capture an infidel; or the offspring of a female slave by
another
slave, or by any man who is not her owner, or by her owner if
he
do not acknowledge himself to be the father; but a person cannot
be
the slave of a relation who is within the prohibited degrees
of marriage.
The power of the owner is such that he may even
kill his slave with
impunity for any offence; and he incurs but a
slight punishment (as
imprisonment for a period at the discretion
of the judge) if he do so
wantonly. He may give or sell his
slaves, excepting in some cases which
will be mentioned, and
may marry them to whom he will, but not separate
them when
married. A slave, however, according to most of the doctors,
cannot have more than two wives at the same time. As a slave
enjoys less
advantages than a free person, the law, in some cases,
ordains that his
punishment for an offence shall be half of that
to which the free is liable
for the same offence, or even less than
half: if it be a fine, or pecuniary
compensation, it must be paid
by the owner, to the amount, if necessary, of
the value of the
slave, or the slave must be given in compensation. An
unemancipated
slave, at the death of the owner, becomes the property
of
the heirs of the latter; and when an emancipated slave dies,
leaving no male descendant or collateral relation, the former
owner is the
heir; or, if he be dead, his heirs inherit the slave's
property. But an
unemancipated slave can acquire no property
without the permission of the
owner. Complete and immediate
emancipation is sometimes granted to a slave
gratuitously, or for
a future pecuniary compensation. It is conferred by
means of a
written document, or by a verbal declaration in the presence
of
two witnesses, or by presenting the slave with the certificate of
sale obtained from the former owner. Future emancipation is
sometimes
covenanted to be granted on the fulfilment of certain
conditions; and more
frequently, to be conferred on the occasion
of the owner's death. In the
latter case, the owner cannot sell
the slave to whom he has made this
promise; and as he cannot
alienate by will more than one-third of the whole
property that he
leaves, the law ordains that, if the value of the said
slave exceed
that portion, the slave must obtain, and pay to the owner's
heirs,
the additional sum.—A Muslim may take as his concubine
any of
his female slaves who is a Muslim'eh, or a Christian, or a
Jewess,

if he have not married her to
another man; but he may not have
as his concubines, at the same time, two
or more who are sisters,
or who are related to each other in any of the
degrees which
would prevent their both being his wives at the same time if
they
were free. A Christian is not by the law allowed, nor is a Jew,
to have a Muslim'eh slave as his concubine.
1 The master must
wait a certain period (generally
from a month to three months)
after his acquisition of a female slave,
before he can take her as
his concubine. When a female slave becomes a
mother by her
master, the child which she bears to him is free, if he
acknowledge
it to be his own; but if not, it is his slave. In the former
case
the mother cannot afterwards be sold or given away by her
master
(though she must continue to serve him and be his concubine
as long as he
desires); and she is entitled to emancipation
at his death. Her bearing a
child to him is called the cause
of her emancipation or liberty; but it
does not oblige him to
emancipate her as long as he lives, though it is
commendable if
he do so, and make her his wife, provided he have not
already
four wives, or if he marry her to another man, should it be
her
wish. A free person cannot become the husband or wife of his,
or
her, own slave, without first emancipating that slave; and the
marriage of
a free person with the slave of another is dissolved if
the former become
the owner of the latter, and cannot be renewed
but by emancipation and a
regular legal contract.
1 Yet many Christians and Jews in Egypt infringe
the law in this respect
with impunity.
The most remarkable general principles of the laws of
inheritance
are the denial of any privileges to primogeniture,
2 and in
most cases awarding to a
female a share equal to half that of a
male of the same degree of
relationship to the deceased.
3 A
person may bequeath one-third of his or her property; but
not
2 In this the Muslim law differs from the
Mosaic, which assigns a double
portion to the first-born son. See Deut.
xxi. 17.
3 In my summary of the principal laws relating
to inheritance, in the former
editions of this work, there were some
errors, occasioned by my relying too
much upon Sale's version of the
Kur-án; for I doubted not his accuracy, as
he had several
commentaries to consult, and I had none; wherefore, in my
inquiries
respecting these laws, I sought only to add to, not to correct, the
information conveyed by his version. I have here given a corrected
statement,
derived from the Kur-án and the Commentary of the
Geláleyn, supplying some
words of necessary explanation
(which are enclosed in brackets) partly on the
authority of a sheykh
who was my tutor, and partly from the valuable work of
D'Ohsson,
“Tableau Général de l'Empire
Othoman,” Code Civil, livre iv.

a larger portion, unless he or she
has no legal heir; nor any
portion to a legal heir, excepting wife or
husband, without the
consent of all the other heirs. The children of a
person deceased
inherit the whole of that person's property, or what
remains after
payment of the legacies and debts, etc., and the share of a
male
is double the share of a female. If the children of the deceased
be only females, two or more in number, they inherit together,
by the law
of the Kur-án, two-thirds; and if there be but one
child, and
that a female, she inherits by the same law half. [But
the remaining third,
or half, is also assigned to the said daughters
or daughter, by a law of
the Sunneh (which applies also to other
cases), if there be no other legal
heir.] If the deceased have left
no immediate descendant, the sons and
daughters of his son or sons
inherit as immediate descendants [and so on].
If the deceased
have left a child or a son's child [and so on], each of the
parents
of the deceased inherits one-sixth. If the father be dead, his
share falls to
his father. [If the mother be dead, her
share falls
to
her mother.] If the deceased have
left no child or son's child
[and so on], the mother has one-third of the
property, or of what
remains after deducting the share of the wife or wives
or husband,
and the residue is for the father; unless the deceased has left
two
or more brothers or sisters, in which case the mother inherits
one-sixth, and the father the residue; the said brothers or sisters
receiving nothing
1 [if
the deceased have left a father or any
ascendant in the male line]. A man
inherits half of what remains
of his wife's property after the payment of
her legacies, etc.,
if she have left no child or son's child [and so on];
and one-fourth
if she have left a child or son's child [and so on].
One-fourth is
the share of the wife, or of the wives conjointly, if the
deceased
husband have left no child or son's child [and so on]; and
one-eighth
1 According to Sale's translation of the 12th
verse of chap. iv., and a note
thereon, if the deceased have no child,
and his parents be his heirs, then
his mother shall have the third
part, and his father the other two-thirds; but
if he have brethren, his
mother shall have a sixth part;—and by his translation
of
the last verse of the same chapter, stating that the brothers of a man
who
has died without issue have a claim to
inheritance, it is implied that the
brothers, if the
father be living, must have a share; consequently, that they
would have, in the case above-mentioned, a sixth part: for he has not
stated
that this portion which is deducted from the mother's share goes
to the father,
nor that the father's share in
diminished.—Why the mothers' share is diminished
and the
father's increased, in the case to which this note relates, I do not
see:
the reason might be easily inferred, were it not that the
surviving brothers or
sisters of the deceased may be his brothers or
sisters by the mother's side
only.

if he have left any such
descendant.
1 If
the deceased have
not left a father [nor any ascendant in the male line],
nor a child
[nor a son's child, and so on], the law ordains as
follows:—1. A
sole brother, or sister, only by the mother's
side, inherits on-sixth;
and if there be two or more brothers or sisters,
only by the mother's
side, or one or more of such relations of each sex,
they inherit
collectively one-third, which is equally divided, without
distinction
of male and female.—2. If the deceased have left a
sole sister
by his father and mother [and no such brother], she
inherits
half; and a man inherits the whole property of such a sister
[or
what remains after the payment of her legacies, etc.], if she have
left no child; but if she have left a male child [or son's child, and
so
on], he (the brother) inherits nothing; and if she have left a
female
child, the said brother inherits what remains after deducting
that child's
share [and after the payment of the legacies, etc.].
If the deceased have
left two or more sisters, by his father and
mother [and no such brother],
they inherit together two-thirds.
If the deceased have left one or more
brothers, and one or more
sisters, by his father and mother, they inherit
the whole [or what
remains after the payment of the legacies, etc.], and
the share of a
male is double the share of a female.—3. Brothers
and sisters
by the father's side only [when there is no brother or sister
by
the father and mother] inherit as brothers and sisters by the
father and mother.
2 No
distinction is made between the
child of a wife and that borne by a slave
to her master (if
the master acknowledge the child to be his own): both
inherit
equally. So also do the child of a wife and the adopted child.
A bastard inherits only from his mother, and
vice
versâ. When
there is no legal heir, or legatee, the
property falls to the government-treasury,
which is called “beyt
el-mál.” The laws respecting
certain remote degrees
of kindred, etc., I have not thought it
necessary to state.
3 The property of the
deceased is nominally
divided into keeráts (or twenty-fourth
parts); and the share of
each son, or other heir, is said to be so many
keeráts.
1 This is exclusive of what may remain due to
her of her dowry, of which
one-third is usually held in reserve by the
husband, to be paid to her if he
divorce her, or when he dies.
2 The portions of the Kur-án upon
which the above laws are founded are
verses 12-15, and the last verse,
of chap. iv.
3 The reader may see them in D'Ohsson's work
before mentioned.
The law is remarkably lenient towards
debtors.
“If there be
any [debtor],” says the
Kur-án,
4 “under a difficulty [of paying

his debt], let [his creditor] wait
till it be easy [for him to do it];
but if ye remit it as alms, it will be
better for you.” The Muslim
is commanded (in the chapter from
which the above extract is
taken), when he contracts a debt, to cause a
statement of it to be
written, and attested by two men, or a man and two
women, of
his own faith. The debtor is imprisoned for non-payment of
his
debt; but if he establish his insolvency, he is liberated. He
may
be compelled to work for the discharge of his debt, if able.
The Kur-án ordains that
murder shall be
punished with death;
or rather, that the free shall die for the free, the
slave for the
slave, and a woman for a woman; or that the perpetrator of
the
crime shall pay to the heirs of the person whom he has killed, if
they allow it a fine, which is to be divided according to the laws
of
inheritance.
1 It
also ordains that
unintentional homicide shall
be
expiated by freeing a believer from slavery, and paying, to the
family of
the person killed, a fine, unless they remit it.
2 But
these laws are amplified and
explained by the same book and by
the Imáms.—A fine
is not to be accepted for murder unless the
crime has been attended by some
palliating circumstance. This
fine, which is the price of blood, is a
hundred camels; or a
thousand deenárs (about £500)
from him who possesses gold;
or from him who possesses silver, twelve
thousand dirhems
3
(about £300). This is for killing a free-man: for a woman,
half
the sum: for a slave, his or her value; but that must fall short
of the price of blood for the free. A person unable to free a
believer must
fast two months, as in Ramadán. The accomplices
of a murderer
are liable to the punishment of death. By the
Sunneh also, a man is
obnoxious to capital punishment for the
murder of a woman; and by the
Hanafee law, for the murder of
another man's slave. But he is exempted from
this punishment who
kills his own child or other descendant, or his own
slave, or his
son's slave, or a slave of whom he is part-owner: so also are
his
accomplices; and according to Esh-Sháfe'ee, a Muslim, though
a
slave, is not to be put to death for killing an infidel, though the
latter be free. In the present day, however, murder is generally
punished
with death; the government seldom allowing a composition
in money to be
made. A man who kills another in self-defence,
or to defend his property
from a robber, is exempt from
all punishment. The price of blood is a debt
incumbent on the
family, tribe, or association of which the homicide is a
member
3 Or, according to some, ten thousand dirhems.

It is also incumbent on the
inhabitants of an enclosed quarter,
or the proprietor or proprietors of a
field, in which the body of a
person killed by an unknown hand is found;
unless the person
has been found killed in his own house. A woman,
convicted of
a capital crime, is generally put to death by drowning in the
Nile.
The Bedawees have made the law of the avenging of blood
terribly severe and
unjust, transgressing the limits assigned by the
Kur-án: for,
with them, any single person descended from the
homicide, or from the
homicide's father, may be killed by any
of such relations of the person
murdered or killed in fight; but,
among most tribes, the fine is generally
accepted instead of the
blood. Cases of blood-revenge are very common among
the
peasantry of Egypt, who, as I have before remarked, retain many
customs of their Bedawee ancestors. The relations of a person
who has been
killed, in an Egyptian village, generally retaliate
with their own hands
rather than apply to the government, and
often do so with disgusting
cruelty, and even mangle and insult
the corpse of their victim. The
relations of a homicide usually fly
from their own to another village, for
protection. Even when retaliation
has been made, animosity frequently
continues between the
two parties for many years; and often a case of
blood-revenge involves
the inhabitants of two or more villages in
hostilities, which
are renewed, at intervals, during the period of several
generations.
Retaliation for intentional
wounds
and
mutilations is allowed,
like as for murder;
“eye for eye,” etc.;
1 but a fine may be
accepted instead, which the
law allows also for unintentional injuries.
The fine for a member that is
single (as the nose) is the
whole price of blood, as for homicide; for a
member of which
there are two, and not more (as a hand), half the price of
blood;
for one of which there are ten (a finger or toe), a tenth of
the
price of blood; but the fine of a man for maiming or wounding a
woman is half of that for the same injury to a man; and that of a
free
person for injuring a slave varies according to the value of the
slave. The
fine for depriving a man of any of his five senses, or
dangerously wounding
him, or grievously disfiguring him for life,
is the whole price of blood.
1 Kur-án, chap. v., v. 49.
Theft, whether committed by a man or by a woman,
according
to the Kur-án,
2 is to be punished by cutting off the offender's
right
hand for the first offence; but a Sunneh law ordains that this
punishment shall not be inflicted if the value of the stolen property

is less than a quarter of a
deenár;
1 and it is also held
necessary, to render the thief obnoxious to
this punishment, that
the property stolen should have been deposited in a
place to which
he had not ordinary or easy access; whence it follows, that
a man
who steals in the house of a near relation is not subject to
this
punishment; nor is a slave who robs the house of his master. For
the second offence, the left foot is to be cut off; for the third,
according to the Sháfe'ee law, the left hand; for the fourth,
the
right foot; and for further offences of the same kind, the culprit
is to be flogged or beaten; or, by the Hanafee code, for the third
and
subsequent offences, the criminal is to be punished by a long
imprisonment.
A man may steal a free-born infant without offending
against the law,
because it is not property; but not a slave;
and the hand is not to be cut
off for stealing any article of food
that is quickly perishable, because it
may have been taken to
supply the immediate demands of hunger. There are
also some
other cases in which the thief is exempt from the
punishments
above mentioned. In Egypt, of late years, these
punishments
have not been inflicted. Beating and hard labour have been
substituted
for the first, second, or third offence, and frequently
death
for the fourth. Most petty offences are usually punished by
beating
with the “kurbág” (a thong or whip
of hippopotamus' hide,
hammered into a round form), or with a stick,
generally on the
soles of the feet.
2
1 The deenár is a mitkál
(or nearly 72 English grains) of gold. Sale, copying
a false
translation by Marracci, and neglecting to examine the Arabic text
quoted by the latter, has stated the sum in question to be four
deenárs.
2 The feet are confined by a chain or rope
attached at each end to a staff,
which is turned round to tighten it.
This is called a “falakah.” Two persons
(one on
each side) strike alternately.
Adultery is most severely visited: but to establish a
charge of
this crime against a wife, four eye-witnesses are necessary.
3 If
convicted
thus, she is to be put to death by stoning.
4 I need scarcely
say that cases of this kind
have very seldom occurred, form the
difficulty of obtaining such
testimony.
5
Further laws on this subject,
3 Kur-án, chap. iv., v. 19.
4 This is a “Sunneh” law.
The doom, as Mr. Urquhart observes, “stands
rather as the
expression of public abhorrence, than as a law which is to be
carried
into execution.” (“Spirit of the East,”
vol. ii., p. 425.) The law
is the same in the case of the adulterer, if
married; but it is never enforced.
See Leviticus xx. 10, and John viii.
4, 5.
5 It is worthy of remark, that the circumstance
which occasioned the promulgation
of this extraordinary law was an
accusation of adultery preferred
against the Prophet's favourite wife,
'A'ïsheh; she was thus absolved from
punishment, and her
reputation was cleared by additional “revelations.”

and still more favourable to the
women, are given in the
Kur-án
1 in the following
words:—“But [as to] those who accuse
women of
reputation [of fornication or adultery], and produce not
four witnesses [of
the fact], scourge them with eighty stripes, and
receive not their
testimony for ever; for such are infamous prevaricators,
excepting those
who shall afterwards repent; for God
is gracious and merciful. They who
shall accuse their wives [of
adultery], and shall have no witnesses
[thereof] beside themselves,
the testimony [which shall be required] of one
of them,
[shall be] that he swear four times by God that he speaketh
the
truth, and the fifth [time that he imprecate] the curse of God on
him if he be a liar; and it shall avert the punishment [of the wife]
if she
sware four times by God that he is a liar, and if the fifth
[time she
imprecate] the wrath of God on her if he speak the
truth.” The
commentators and lawyers have agreed that, under
these circumstances, the
marriage must be dissolved. In the
chapter from which the above quotation
is made, it is ordained
(in verse 2) that unmarried persons convicted of
fornication shall
be punished by scourging, with a hundred stripes; and a
Sunneh
law renders them obnoxious to the further punishment of
banishment
for a whole year.
2 Of the punishment of women convicted
of
incontinence in
Cairo, I shall speak in the next chapter, as it
is an
arbitrary act of the government, not founded on the laws of
the
Kur-án, or the Traditions.
3
2 An unmarried person convicted of adultery is
likewise obnoxious only to
this punishment. The two laws mentioned in
Leviticus xx. 13 and 15 have
been introduced into the Muslim code; but
in the present day they are never
executed.
3 In the villages of Egypt, a woman found, or
suspected, to have been guilty
of this crime, if she be not a common
prostitute, often experiences a different
fate, which will be described
in the account of the domestic life and customs of
the lower
orders.
Drunkenness was punished by the Prophet by flogging, and
is
still in
Cairo, though not often. The “hadd,” or
number of
stripes for this offence, is eighty in the case of a free man,
and
forty in that of a slave.
Apostacy from the faith of El-Islám is
considered a most heinous
sin, and must be punished with death, unless the
apostate will
recant on being thrice warned. I once saw a woman
paraded
through the streets of
Cairo, and afterwards taken down to the
Nile to be drowned, for having apostatized from the faith of Mohammad,
and
having married a Christian. Unfortunately, she

had tattooed a blue cross on her
arm, which led to her detection
by one of her former friends in a bath. She
was mounted upon
a high-saddled ass, such as ladies in Egypt usually ride,
and very
respectably dressed, attended by soldiers, and surrounded by
a
rabble, who, instead of commiserating, uttered loud imprecations
against her. The Kádee who passed sentence upon her, exhorted
her in vain to return to her former faith. Her own father was
her accuser!
She was taken in a boat into the midst of the river,
stripped nearly naked,
strangled, and then thrown into the stream.
1 The Europeans residing in
Cairo regretted that the
Básha was then
at
Alexandria, as they might have prevailed upon
him to pardon
her. Once before, they interceded with him for a woman
who
had been condemned for apostacy. The Básha ordered that
she
should be brought before him; he exhorted her to recant; but
finding her resolute, reproved her for her
folly, and
sent her home,
commanding that no injury should be done to her.
1 The conduct of the lower orders in Cairo on
this occasion speaks sadly
against their character. A song was composed on the victim of this terrible
law, and
became very popular in the metropolis.
Still more severe is the law with respect to blasphemy.
The
person who utters blasphemy against God, or Mohammad, or
Christ,
or Moses, or any prophet, is to be put to death without
delay, even though
he profess himself repentant; repentance for
such a sin being deemed
impossible. Apostacy or infidelity is
occasioned by misjudgment; but
blasphemy is the result of utter
depravity.
A few words may here be added respecting the sect of the
“Wahhábees,” also called
“Wahabees,” which was founded less
than a century
ago, by Mohammad Ibn-'Add-El-Wahháb, a pious
and learned sheykh
of the province of En-Nejd, in Central Arabia.
About the middle of the last
century, he had the good fortune to
convert to his creed a powerful chief
of Ed-Dir'eeyeh, the capital
of En-Nejd. This chief, Mohammad Ibn-So'ood,
became the
sovereign of the new sect—their religious and
political head—and
under him and his successors the
Wahhábee doctrines were spread
throughout the greater part of
Arabia. He was first succeeded
by his son, 'Abd-El'-Azeez; next, by So'ood,
the son of the latter,
and the greatest of the Wahhábee leaders;
and lastly, by 'Abd-Allah,
the son of this So'ood, who, after an arduous
warfare with
the armies of Mohammad' Alee, surrendered himself to his
victorious
enemies, was sent to Egypt, thence to Constantinople, and
there beheaded. The wars which Mohammad 'Alee carried on

against the Wahhábees,
had for their chief object the destruction
of the political power of the
new sect. Their religious tenets are
still professed by many of the Arabs,
and allowed to be orthodox
by the most learned of the 'Ulama of Egypt. The
Wahhábees
are merely reformers, who believe all the fundamental
points of
El-Islám, and all the accessory doctrines of the
Kur-án and the
Traditions of the Prophet: in short, their tenets
are those of the
primitive Muslims. They disapprove of gorgeous sepulchres,
and
domes erected over tombs; such they invariably destroy when in
their power. They also condemn, as idolaters, those who pay
peculiar
veneration to deceased saints; and even declare all other
Muslims to be
heretics, for the extravagant respect which they pay
to the Prophet. They
forbid the wearing of silk and gold ornaments,
and all costly apparel, and
also the practice of smoking
tobacco. For the want of this last luxury,
they console themselves
in some degree by an immoderate use of coffee.
1 There
are many
learned men among them, and they have collected
many valuable books
(chiefly historical) from various parts of
Arabia, and from Egypt.
1 Among many other erroneous statements
respecting the Wahhábees, it has
been asserted that they
prohibit the drinking of coffee.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER IV.
GOVERNMENT.
EGYPT has, of late years, experienced great political changes, and
nearly
ceased to be a province of the Turkish Empire. Its present
Básha
(Mohammad 'Alee), having exterminated the Ghuzz,
or Memlooks, who shared
the government with his predecessors,
has rendered himself almost an
independent prince. He, however,
professes allegiance to the
Sultán, and remits the tribute,
according to former custom, to
Constantinople; he is, moreover,
under an obligation to respect the
fundamental laws of the Kur-án
and the Traditions; but he
exercises a dominion otherwise
unlimited.
2 He may cause any one of his subjects to be
put to
2 Though his territory has been greatly lessened
since the above was written,
his power in Egypt remains nearly the
same.

death without the formality of a
trial, or without assigning any
cause: a simple horizontal motion of his
hand is sufficient to imply
the sentence of decapitation. But I must not be
understood
to insinuate that he is prone to shed blood without any
reason:
severity is a characteristic of this prince rather than wanton
cruelty; and boundless ambition has prompted him to almost
every action by
which he has attracted either praise or censure.
1
1 The government of Egypt, from the period of
the conquest of this country
by the Arabs, has been nearly the same as
it is at present in its influence upon
the manners and customs and
character of the inhabitants; and I therefore do
not deem an historical
retrospect necessary to the illustration of this work. It
should,
however, be mentioned that the people of Egypt are not now allowed
to
indulge in that excessive fanatical rudeness with which they formerly
treated
unbelievers; and hence European travellers have one great cause
for gratitude
to Mohammad 'Alee. Restraint may, at first, increase, but
will probably, in
the course of time, materially diminish the feeling
of fanatical intolerance.
In the Citadel of the Metropolis is a court of judicature, called
“ed-Deewán el-Khideewee,”
2 where, in the
Básha's absence, presides
his
“Kikhya,”
3 or deputy, Habeeb Efendee. In cases
which do not
fall within the province of the Kádee, or which are
sufficiently
clear to be decided without referring them to the
court of that officer, or
to another council, the president of the
Deewán el-Khideewee
passes judgment. Numerous guard-houses
have been established throughout the
metropolis, at each of which
is stationed a body of Nizám, or
regular troops. The guard is
called “Kulluk,” or,
more commonly at present, “Karakól.”
Persons accused of thefts, assaults, etc., in
Cairo, are given in
charge to
a soldier of the guard, who takes them to the chief
guard-house, in the
Mooskee, a street in that part of the town in
which most of the Franks
reside. The charges being here stated,
and committed to writing, he
conducts them to the “Zábit,” or
chief
magistrate of the police of the metropolis. The Zábit, having
heard the case, sends the accused for trial to the Deewán
el-Khideewee.
4
When a person denies the offence with which he is
charged, and there
is not sufficient evidence to convict him, but
some ground of suspicion, he
is generally bastinaded, in order to
2 “Khideewee” is a
relative adjective formed from the Turkish
“Khideev,”
which signifies “a
prince.”
3 Thus pronounced in Egypt, but more properly
“Kyáhya,” or
“Ketkhud'a.”
4 A very arbitrary power is often exercised in
this and similar courts, and
the proceedings are conducted with little
decorum. Many Turkish officers,
even of the highest rank, make use of
language far too disgusting for me to
mention, towards persons brought
before them for judgment, and towards those
who appeal to them for
justice.

induce him to confess; and then, if
not before, when the crime
is not of a nature that renders him obnoxious to
a very heavy
punishment, he, if guilty, admits it. A thief, after this
discipline,
generally confesses, “The devil seduced me, and I
took it.” The
punishment of the convicts is regulated by a
system of arbitrary,
but lenient and wise, policy: it usually consists in
their being
compelled to labour, for a scanty sustenance, in some of the
public
works, such as the removal of rubbish, digging canals, etc.;
and sometimes the army is recruited with able-bodied young men
convicted of
petty offences. In employing malefactors in labours
for the improvement of
the country, Mohammad 'Alee merits the
praises bestowed upon Sabacon, the
Ethiopian conqueror and
king of Egypt, who is said to have introduced this
policy. The
Básha is, however, very severe in punishment thefts,
etc., committed
against himself:—death is the usual penalty in
such cases.
There are several inferior councils for conducting the affairs of
different
departments of the administration. The principal of
these are the
following:—1. The “Meglis el-Meshwar'ah (the
Council
of Deliberation), also called “Meglis el-Meshwar'ah
el-Melekeeyeh”
(the Council of Deliberation on the Affairs of
the
State), to distinguish it from other councils. The members of
this
and of the other similar councils are chosen by the Básha,
for
their talents or other qualifications; and consequently his will
and
interest sway them in all their decisions. They are his instruments,
and
compose a committee for presiding over the general
government of the
country, and the commercial and agricultural
affairs of the
Básha. Petitions, etc., addressed to the Básha, or
to
his Deewán, relating to private interests or the affairs of the
government, are generally submitted to their consideration and
judgment,
unless they more properly come under the cognizance
of other councils
hereafter to be mentioned. 2. The “Meglis
el-Gihádeeyeh” (the Council of the Army); also called
“Meglis
el-Meshwar'ah el-'Askereeyeh” (the Council of
Deliberation on
Military Affairs). The province of this court is
sufficiently shown
by its name. 3. The Council of the
“Tarskháneh,” or Navy.
4. The
“Deewán et-Tuggár” (or Court of the
Merchants). This
court, the members of which are merchants of various
countries
and religions, presided over by the
“Sháhbandar” (or chief of
the merchants of
Cairo), was instituted in consequence of the
laws of the Kur-án
and the Sunneh being found not sufficiently
explicit in some cases arising
out of modern commercial transactions.

The “Kádee” (or chief judge) of
Cairo presides
in Egypt only
a year, at the expiration of which term, a new
Kádee having arrived
from Constantinople, the former returns. It
was customary
for this officer to proceed from
Cairo, with the great
caravan of
pilgrims, to Mekkeh, perform the ceremonies of the
pilgrimage,
and remain one year as Kádee of the holy city, and
one year at
El-Medeeneh.
1 He purchases his place privately of the government,
which pays no
particular regard to his qualifications, though
he must be a man of some
knowledge, an 'Osmánlee (that is, a
Turk), and of the sect of
the Hanafees. His tribunal is called
the “Mahkem'eh,”
or Place of Judgment. Few Kádees are
very well acquainted with
the Arabic language; nor is it necessary
for them to have such knowledge.
In
Cairo, the Kádee has little
or nothing to do but to confirm
the sentence of his “Náïb” (or
deputy), who hears and decides the more ordinary cases, and
whom he chooses
from among the 'Ulama of Istambool, or the
decision of the
“Muftee” (or chief doctor of the law) of his own
sect, who constantly resides in
Cairo, and gives judgment in all
cases of
difficulty. But in general, the Náïb is, at the best,
but
little conversant with the popular dialect of Egypt; therefore, in
Cairo, where the chief proportion of the litigants at the Mahkem'eh
are
Arabs, the judge must place the utmost confidence in
the
“Básh Turgumán” (or Chief
Interpreter), whose place is permanent,
and who is consequently well
acquainted with all the
customs of the court, particularly with the system
of bribery; and
this knowledge he is generally very ready to communicate
to
every new Kádee or Náïb. A man may be
grossly ignorant of
the law, and yet hold the office of Kádee of
Cairo: several instances
of this kind have occurred; but the
Náïb must be a
lawyer of learning and experience.
1 He used to arrive in Cairo in the beginning of
Ramadán; but the beginning
of the first month, Moharram, has
of late been fixed upon, instead of the
former period.
When a person has a suit to prefer at the Mahkem'eh against
another
individual or party, he goes thither, and applies to the
“Básh Rusul” (or chief of the bailiffs or
sergeants who execute
arrests) for a “Rasool” to
arrest the accused. The Rasool receives
a piaster or two,
2 and generally gives
half of this fee
privately to his chief. The plaintiff and defendant then
present
themselves in the great hall of the Mahkem'eh, which is a
large
saloon, facing a spacious court, and having an open front formed
2 The Egyptian piaster is now equivalent to the
fifth part of a shilling, or 2⅖d.

by a row of columns and arches.
Here are seated several officers
called
“Sháhids,” whose business is to hear and write
the statements
of the cases to be submitted to judgment, and who are
under the authority of the “Básh
Kátib” (or Chief Secretary).
The plaintiff,
addressing any one of the Sháhids whom he finds
unoccupied,
states his case, and the Sháhid commits it to writing,
and
receives a fee of a piaster or more; after which, if the case be
of a
trifling nature, and the defendant acknowledge the justice of
the suit, he
(the Sháhid) passes sentence; but otherwise he conducts
the two
parties before the Náïb, who holds his court in an
inner apartment. The Náïb, having heard the case, desires
the
plaintiff to procure a “fetwa” (or judicial
decision) from the
Muftee of the sect of the Hanafees, who receives a fee,
seldom
less than ten piasters, and often more than a hundred or two
hundred. This is the course pursued in all cases but those of a
very
trifling nature, which are settled with less trouble, and those
of great
importance or intricacy. A case of the latter kind is
tried in the private
apartment of the Kádee, before the Kádee
himself, the
Náïb, and the Muftee of the Hanafees, who is summoned
to hear it, and to give his decision; and sometimes, in
cases of very great
difficulty or moment, several of the 'Ulama of
Cairo are, in like manner,
summoned. The Muftee hears the
case and writes his sentence, and the
Kádee confirms his judgment,
and stamps the paper with his seal,
which is all that he has to
do in any case. The accused may clear himself
by his oath when
the plaintiff has not witnesses to produce: placing his
right hand
on a copy of the Kur-án, which is held out to him, he
says, “By
God, the Great!” The witnesses must be men
of good
this of the word of God!” The witnesses must be men of
good
repute, or asserted to be such, and not interested in the cause:
in
every case at least two witnesses are requisite
1 (or one man and
two women); and each
of these must be attested to be a person
of probity by two others. An
infidel cannot bear witness against
a Muslim in a case involving capital or
other heavy punishment;
and evidence in favour of a son or grandson, or of
a father or
grandfather, is not received; nor is the testimony of
slaves;
neither can a master testify in favour of his slave.
1 This law is borrowed from the Jews. See Deut.
xix. 15.—A man may
refuse to give his testimony
The fees, until lately, used to be paid by the successful party;
but now
they are paid by the other party. The Kádee's fees for
decisions
in cases respecting the sale of property are two per cent.

on the amount of the property: in
cases of legacies, four
per cent., excepting when the heir is an orphan not
of age, who
pays only two per cent.: for decisions respecting property
in
houses or land, when the cost of the property in question is
known,
his fees are two per cent.; but when the cost is not
known, one year's
rent. These are the legitimate fees; but
more than the due amount is often
exacted. In cases which do
not concern property, the Kádee's
Náïb fixes the amount of the
fees. There are also
other fees than those of the Kádee to be
paid after the decision
of the case: for instance, if the Kádee's
fees be two or three
hundred piasters, a fee of about two piasters
must be paid to the
Básh Turgumán; about the same to the Básh
Rusul; and one piaster to the Rasool, or to each Rasool employed.
The rank of a plaintiff or defendant, or a bribe from either,
often
influences the decision of the judge. In general the
Náïb
and Muftee take bribes, and the Kádee
receives from his Náïb.
On some occasions,
particularly in long litigations, bribes are
given by each party, and the
decision is awarded in favour of him
who pays highest. This frequently
happens in difficult law-suits;
and even in cases respecting which the law
is perfectly clear,
strict justice is not always administered; bribes and
false testimony
being employed by one of the parties. The shocking
extent to which the practices of bribery and suborning false witnesses
are
carried in Muslim courts of law, and among them in
the tribunal of the
Kádee of
Cairo, may be scarcely credited on
the bare assertion
of the fact: some strong proof, resting on indubitable
authority, may be
demanded; and here I shall give
such proof, in a summary of a case which
was tried not long since,
and which was related to me by the Secretary and
Imám of the
Sheykh El-Mahdee, who was then supreme Muftee of
Cairo (being
the chief Muftee of the Hanafees), and to whom this case
was
referred after judgment in the Kádee's court.
A Turkish merchant, residing at
Cairo, died, leaving property
to the amount
of six thousand purses,
1
and no relation to inherit
but one daughter. The seyyid Mohammad
El-Mahrookee, the
Sháh-bandar (chief of the merchants of
Cairo),
hearing of this
event, suborned a common felláh, who was the
bowwáb (or doorkeeper)
of a respected sheykh, and whose parents
(both of them
Arabs) were known to many persons, to assert himself a son of
a
brother of the deceased. The case was brought before the
Kádee,
1 A purse is the sum of five hundred piasters,
and was then equivalent to
nearly seven pounds sterling, but is now
equal to only five pounds.

and, as it was one of considerable
importance, several of the
principal 'Ulama of the city were summoned to
decide it. They
were all bribed or influenced by El-Mahrookee, as will
presently
be shown; false witnesses were brought forward to swear to
the
truth of the bowwáb's pretensions, and others to give
testimony
to the good character of these witnesses. Three thousand
purses
were adjudged to the daughter of the deceased, and the other
half
of the property to the bowwáb. El-Mahrookee received the
share
of the latter, deducting only three hundred piasters, which he
presented to the bowwáb. The chief Muftee, El-Mahdee, was
absent
from
Cairo when the case was tried. On his return to
the metropolis, a few
days after, the daughter of the deceased
merchant repaired to his house,
stated her case to him, and
earnestly solicited redress. The Muftee, though
convinced of the
injustice which she had suffered, and not doubting the
truth of
what she related respecting the part which El-Mahrookee had
taken in this affair, told her that he feared it was impossible for
him to
annul the judgment, unless there were some informality in
the proceedings
of the court, but that he would look at the record
of the case in the
register of the Mahkem'eh. Having done this,
he betook himself to the
Básha, with whom he was in great favour
for his knowledge and
inflexible integrity, and complained to him
that the tribunal of the
Kádee was disgraced by the administration
of the most flagrant
injustice; that false witness was admitted by
the 'Ulama, however evident
and glaring it might be; and that a
judgment which they had given in a late
case, during his absence,
was the general talk and wonder of the town. The
Básha summoned
the Kádee talk and wonder of the town.
The Básha summeet
the Muftee in the Citadel; and when they had
assembled
there, addressed them, as from himself, with the Muftee's
complaint.
The Kádee, appearing, like the 'Ulama, highly
indignant
at this charge, demanded to know upon what it was grounded.
The Básha replied that it was a general charge, but particularly
grounded on the case in which the court had admitted the claim
of a
bowwáb to a relationship and inheritance which they could
not
believe to be his right. The Kádee here urged that he had
passed
sentence in accordance with the unanimous decision of the
'Ulama then
present. “Let the record of the case be read,” said
the Básha. The journal being sent for, this was done; and when
the secretary had finished reading the minutes, the Kádee, in a
loud tone of proud authority, said, “And I judged so.” The
Muftee,
in a louder and more authoritative tone, exclaimed, “And
thy

judgment is false!” All
eyes were fixed in astonishment, now
at the Muftee, now at the
Básha, now at the other 'Ulama. The
Kádee and the
'Ulama rolled their heads and stroked their beards.
The former exclaimed,
tapping his breast, “I, the Kádee of
Misr, pass a
false sentence!” “And we,” said the 'Ulama,
“we,
Sheykh Mahdee! we, 'Ulama el-Islám, give a false
decision!”
“O Sheykh Mahdee,” said
El-Mahrookee (who, from his commercial
transactions with the
Básha, could generally obtain a
place in his councils),
“respect the 'Ulama as they respect
thee!”
“O Mahrookee!” exclaimed the Muftee, “art thou
concerned
in this affair? Declare what part thou hast in it, or else
hold thy peace: go, speak in the assemblies of the merchants,
but presume
not again to open thy mouth in the council of the
'Ulama!”
El-Mahrookee immediately left the palace, for he saw
how the affair would
terminate, and had to make his arrangements
accordingly. The Muftee was now
desired, by the other 'Ulama,
to adduce a proof of the invalidity of their
decision. Drawing
from his bosom a small book on the laws of inheritance,
he read
from it, “To establish a claim to relationship and
inheritance, the
names of the father and the mother of the claimant, and
those of
his father's father and mother, and of his mother's father
and
mother, must be ascertained.” The names of the father
and
mother of the pretended father of the bowwáb the false
witnesses
had not been prepared to give; and this deficiency in
the
testimony (which the 'Ulama, in trying the case, purposely
overlooked) now
caused the sentence to be annulled. The
bowwáb was brought
before the council, and, denying the imposition
of which he had been made
the principal instrument,
was, by order of the Básha, very
severely bastinaded; but the
only confession that could be drawn from him
by the torture
which he endured was, that he had received nothing more of
the
three thousand purses than three hundred piasters. Meanwhile,
El-Mahrookee had repaired to the bowwáb's master: he told the
latter what had happened at the Citadel, and what he had foreseen
would be
the result, put into his hand three thousand purses, and
begged him
immediately to go to the council, give this sum of
money, and say that it
had been placed in his hands in trust by
his servant. This was done, and
the money was paid to the
daughter of the deceased.
In another case, when the Kádee and the council of the 'Ulama
were influenced in their decision by a Básha (not Mohammad
‘Alee), and passed a sentence contrary to law, they were thwarted

in the same manner by El-Mahdee.
This Muftee was a rare
example of integrity. It is said that he never took
a fee for a
fetwa. He died shortly after my first visit to this
country.—I
could mention several other glaring cases of bribery
in the court
of the Kádee of
Cairo; but the above is sufficient.
There are five minor Mahkem'ehs in
Cairo; and likewise one
at its principal
port, Boolák; and one at its southern port,
Masr El-'Ateekah. A
Sháhid from the great Mahkem'eh presides at
each of them, as
deputy of the chief Kádee, who confirms their
acts. The matters
submitted to these minor tribunals are chiefly
respecting the sales of
property, and legacies, marriages, and
divorces; for the Kádee
marries female orphans under age who
have no relations of age to act as
their guardians; and wives
often have recourse to law to compel their
husbands to divorce
them. In every country-town there is also a
Kádee, generally a
native of the place, and never a Turk, who
decides all cases,
sometimes from his own knowledge of the law, but
commonly on
the authority of a Muftee. One Kádee generally
serves for two or
three or more villages.
Each of the four orthodox sects of the Muslims (the Hanafees,
Sháfe'ees, Málikees, and Hambel'ees) has its
“Sheykh,” or religious
chief, who is chosen from
among the most learned of the
body, and resides in the metropolis. The
Sheykh of the great
mosque El-Azhar (who is always of the sect of the
Sháfe'ees, and
sometimes Sheykh of that sect), together with the
other Sheykhs
above mentioned, and the Kádee, the Nakeeb
el-Ashráf (the
chief of the Shereefs, or descendants of the
Prophet), and several
other persons, constitute the council of the
'Ulama
1 (or
learned
men), by whom the Turkish Báshas and Memlook chiefs
have
often been kept in awe, and by whom their tyranny has frequently
been restricted: but now this learned body has lost almost all its
influence over the government. Petty disputes are often, by
mutual consent
of the parties at variance, submitted to the judgment
of one of the four
Sheykhs first mentioned, as they are the
chief Muftees of their respective
sects; and the utmost deference
is always paid to them. Difficult and
delicate causes, which
concern the laws of the Kur-án or the
Traditions, are also
frequently referred by the Básha to these
Sheykhs; but their
opinion is not always followed by him: for instance,
after consulting
1 In the singular “A'lim.”
This title is more particularly given to a professor
of jurisprudence.
European writers generally use the plural form of
this appellation for
the singular.

them respecting the legality of
dissecting human bodies,
for the sake of acquiring anatomical knowledge,
and receiving
their declaration that it was repugnant to the laws of the
religion,
he, nevertheless, has caused it to be practised by Muslim
students
of anatomy.
The police of the metropolis is more under the direction of the
military
than of the civil power. A few years ago it was under
the authority of the
“Wálee” and the
“Zábit;” but since my
first visit to this
country the office of the former has been abolished.
He was charged with
the apprehension of thieves and other
criminals; and under his jurisdiction
were the public women, of
whom he kept a list, and from each of whom he
exacted a tax.
He also took cognizance of the conduct of the women in
general;
and when he found a female to have been guilty of a single
act
of incontinence, he added her name to the list of the public
women, and demanded from her the tax, unless she preferred, or
could
afford, to escape that ignominy, by giving to him, or to his
officers, a
considerable bribe. This course was always pursued,
and is still, by a
person who farms the tax of the of public women,
1
in the case of unmarried females, and generally in the case of the
married also; but the latter are sometimes privately put to death,
if they
cannot, by bribery or some other artifice, save themselves.
Such
proceedings are, however, in two points, contrary to the
law, which ordains
that a person who accuses a woman of adultery
or fornication, without
producing four witnesses of the crime,
shall be scourged with eighty
stripes, and decrees other punishments
than those of degradation and
tribute against women convicted
of such offences.
1 Since this was written, the public women
throughout Egypt have been
compelled to relinquish their licentious
profession.
The office of the Zábit has before been mentioned. He is
now the
chief of the police. His officers, who have no distinguishing
mark to
render them known as such, are interspersed
through the metropolis: they
often visit the coffee-shops, and
observe the conduct, and listen to the
conversation, of the citizens.
Many of them are pardoned thieves. They
accompany the military
guards in their nightly rounds through the streets
of the metropolis.
Here, none but the blind are allowed to go out at
night
later than about an hour and a half after sunset, without a
lantern or a light of some kind. Few persons are seen in the
streets later
than two or three hours after sunset. At the fifth or
sixth hour, one might
pass through the whole length of the metropolis

and scarcely meet more than a dozen
or twenty persons,
excepting the watchmen and guards, and the porters at
the gates
of the bye-streets and quarters. The sentinel, or guard, calls
out
to the approaching passenger, in Turkish, “Who is
that?” and
is answered in Arabic, “A
citizen.”
1 The private watchman, in
the same case exclaims,
“Attest the unity of God!” or merely,
“Attest the unity!”
2 The reply given to this is, “There is
no
deity but God!” which Christians, as well as Muslims,
object
not to say; the former understanding these words in a different
sense from the latter. It is supposed that a thief, or a person
bound on
any unlawful undertaking, would not dare to utter these
words. Some persons
loudly exclaim, in reply to the summons
of the watchman, “There
is no deity but God: Mohammad is
God's Apostle.” The private
watchmen are employed to guard,
by night, the sooks (or market-streets) and
other districts of the
town. They carry a nebboot (or long staff), but no
lantern.
1 “Ibn beled.” If blind,
he answers, “Aama.”
2 “Wahhed;” or, to more
than one person, “Wahhedoo.”
The Zábit, or A'gha of the police, used frequently to go about
the metropolis by night, often accompanied only by the executioner
and the
“shealeg'ee,” or bearer of a kind of torch called
“shealeh,” which is still in use.
3 This torch burns, soon after it
is
lighted, without a flame, excepting when it is waved through
the air, when
it suddenly blazes forth: it therefore answers the
same purpose as our dark
lantern. The burning end is sometimes
concealed in a small pot or jar, or
covered with something else,
when not required to give light; but it is
said that thieves often
smell it in time to escape meeting the bearer. When
a person
without a light is met by the police at night, he seldom
attempts
resistance or flight; the punishment to which he is liable is
beating.
The chief of the police had an arbitrary power to put any
criminal or offender to death without trial, and when not obnoxious,
by
law, to capital punishment; and so also had many inferior
officers, as will
be seen in subsequent pages of this work: but
within the last two or three
years, instances of the exercise of such
power have been very rare, and I
believe they would not now be
permitted. The officers of the
Zábit perform their nightly rounds
with the military guards
merely as being better acquainted than
3 Baron Hammer-Purgstall is mistaken in
substituting “Meshaaledschi”
for
“Shealeg'ee.” The officer who bears the latter
appellation does not carry
a mesh'al, but a twisted torch. The mesh'al
is described and figured in
Chap. vi.

the latter with the haunts and
practices of thieves and other bad
characters; and the Zábit
himself scarcely ever exercises any
penal authority beyond that of beating
or flogging.
Very curious measures, such as we read of in some of the tales
of
“the Thousand and One Nights,” were often adopted by
the
police magistrates of
Cairo, to discover an offender, before the
police magistrates of
Cairo, to discover an offender, before the
late
innovations. I may mention an instance. The authenticity
of the following
case, and of several others of a similar nature, is
well known. I shall
relate it in the manner in which I have heard
it told.—A poor
man applied one day to the A'gha of the police,
and said, “Sir,
there came to me, to-day, a woman, and she said
to me, ‘Take
this “kurs,”
1 and let it remain in your possession
for a time,
and lend me five hundred piasters:' and I took it
from her, Sir, and gave
her the five hundred piasters, and she
went away: and when she was gone
away, I said to myself, ‘Let
me look at this kurs;' and I looked
at it, and behold, it was
yellow brass: and I slapped my face, and said,
‘I will go to the
A'gha, and relate my story to him; perhaps he
will investigate
the affair, and clear it up;' for there is none that can
help me in
this matter but thou.” The A'gha said to him,
“Hear what I
tell thee, man. Take whatever is in thy shop; leave
nothing;
and lock it up; and to-morrow morning go early; and when thou
hast opened the shop, cry out, ‘Alas for my property!' then take
in thy hands two clods, and beat thyself with them, and cry,
‘Alas for the property of others!' and whoever says to thee,
‘What is the matter with thee?' do thou answer, ‘The
property
of others is lost: a pledge that I had, belonging to a woman,
is
lost; if it were my own, I should not thus lament it;' and this
will clear up the affair.” The man promised to do as he was
desired. He removed everything from his shop, and early the
next morning he
went and opened it, and began to cry out, “Alas
for the property
of others!” and he took two clods, and beat
himself with them,
and went about every district of the city,
crying, “Alas for the
property of others! a pledge that I had,
belonging to a woman, is lost; if
it were my own, I should not
thus lament it.” The woman who had
given him the kurs in
pledge heard of this, and discovered that it was the
man whom
she had cheated; so she said to herself, “Go and bring
an action
against him.” She went to his shop, riding on an ass,
to give
herself consequence, and said to him, “Man, give me my
property
1 An ornament worn on the crown of the
head-dress by women, described
in the Appendix to this work.

that is in thy
possession.” He answered, “It is lost.”
“Thy tongue be cut out!” she cried: “dost thou
lose my
property? By Allah! I will go to the A'gha, and inform him of
it.” “Go,” said he; and she went, and told her
case. The
A'gha sent for the man; and, when he had come, said to his
accuser, ‘What is thy property in his possession?” She
answered,
“A kurs of red Venetian gold.”
“Woman,” said the A'gha, “I
have a gold
kurs here: I should like to show it thee.” She said,
“Show it me, Sir, for I shall know my kurs.” The A'gha
then
untied a handkerchief, and, taking out of it the kurs which she
had given in pledge, said, “Look.” She looked at it and
knew
it, and hung down her head. The A'gha said, “Raise thy
head,
and say where are the five hundred piasters of this man.”
She
answered, “Sir, they are in my house.” The
executioner was
sent with her to her house, but without his sword; and
the
woman, having gone into the house, brought out a purse containing
the money, and went back with him. The money was given to
the man from whom
it had been obtained, and the executioner
was then ordered to take the
woman to the Rumeyleh (a large
open place below the Citadel), and there to
behead her; which
he did.
The markets of
Cairo, and the weights and measures, are under
the inspection
of an officer called the “Mohtes'ib.” He occasionally
rides about the town, preceded by an officer who carries
a large pair of
scales, and followed by the executioners and
numerous other servants.
Passing by shops, or through the markets,
he orders each shopkeeper, one
after another, or sometimes only
one here and there, to produce his scales,
weights, and measures,
and tries whether they be correct. He also inquires
the prices of
provisions at the shops where such articles are sold. Often,
too,
he stops a servant, or other passenger in the street, whom he may
chance to meet carrying any article of food that he has just
bought, and
asks him for what sum, or at what weight, he purchased
it. When he finds
that a shopkeeper has incorrect
scales, weights, or measures, or that he
has sold a thing deficient
in weight, or above the regular market price, he
punishes him on
the spot. The general punishment is beating or flogging.
Once
I saw a man tormented in a different way, for selling bread
deficient in weight. A hole was bored through his nose, and a
cake of
bread, about a span wide, and a finger's breadth in thickness,
was
suspended to it by a piece of string. He was stripped
naked, with the
exception of having a piece of linen about his

loins, and tied, with his arms
bound behind him, to the bars of a
window of a mosque called the
Ashrafeeyeh, in the main street
of the metropolis, his feet resting upon
the sill. He remained
thus about three hours, exposed to the gaze of the
multitude which
thronged the street, and to the scorching rays of the sun.
A person who was appointed Mohtes'ib shortly after my former
visit to this
country (Mustaf'a Káshif, a Kurd) exercised his power
in a most
brutal manner, clipping men's ears (that is, cutting off
the lobe, or
ear-lap), not only for the most trifling transgression,
but often of no
offence whatever. He once met an old man,
driving along several asses laden
with water-melons, and pointing
to one of the largest of these fruits,
asked its price. The old
man put his finger and thumb to his ear-lap, and
said, “Cut it,
Sir.” He was asked again and again,
and gave the same answer.
The Mohtes'ib, angry, but unable to refrain from
laughing, said,
“Fellow, are you mad or deaf?”
“No,” replied the old man,
“I am neither
mad nor deaf; but I know that, if I were to say
the price of the melon is
ten faddahs, you would say, ‘Clip his
ear'; and if I said
five faddahs, or
one faddah, you
would say,
‘Clip his ear'; therefore clip it at once, and let me
pass on.”
His humour saved him.—Clipping ears was the
usual punishment
inflicted by this Mohhtes'ib; but sometimes he tortured in
a
different manner. A butcher, who had sold some meat wanting
two
ounces of its due weight, he punished by cutting off two
ounces of flesh
from his back. A seller of “kunáfeh” (a
kind
of paste resembling vermicelli) having made his customers pay a
trifle more than was just, he caused him to be stripped, and
seated upon
the round copper tray on which the kunáfeh was
baked, and kept
so until he was dreadfully burnt. He generally
punished dishonest butchers
by putting a hook through their
nose, and hanging a piece of meat to it.
Meeting, one day, a
man carrying a large crate full of earthen
water-bottles from
Semennood, which he offered for sale as made at
Kinë, he
caused his attendants to break each bottle separately
against the
vendor's head. Mustafa Káshif also exercised his
tyranny in
other cases than those which properly fell under his
jurisdiction.
He once took a fancy to send one of his horses to a bath,
and
desired the keeper of a bath in his neighbourhood to prepare for
receiving it, and to wash it well, and make its coat very smooth.
The
bath-keeper, annoyed at so extraordinary a command, ventured
to suggest
that, as the pavements of the bath were of
marble, the horse might slip,
and fall; and also, that it might

take cold on going out; and that it
would, therefore, be better
for him to convey to the stable the contents of
the cistern of the
bath in buckets, and there to perform the operation.
Mustafa
Káshif said, “I see how it is; you do not
like that my horse
should go into your bath.” He desired some of
his servants to
throw him down, and beat him with staves until he should
tell
them to stop. They did so; and beat the poor man till he died.
A few years ago there used to be carried before the Mohtes'ib,
when going
his rounds to examine the weights and measures, etc.,
a pair of scales
larger than that used at present. Its beam, it is
said, was a hollow tube,
containing some quicksilver; by means
of which, the bearer, knowing those
persons who had bribed his
master, and those who had not, easily made
either scale preponderate.
As the Mohtes'ib is the overseer of the public markets, so
there are
officers who have a similar charge in superintending
each branch of the
Básha's trade and manufactures; and some
of these persons have
been known to perpetrate most abominable
acts of tyranny any cruelty. One
of this class, who was named
'Alee Bey, “Názir
el-Kumásh” (or Overseer of the Linen), when
he found
a person in possession of a private loom, or selling the
produce of such a
loom, generally bound him up in a piece of
his linen, soaked in oil and
tar; then suspended him, thus enveloped,
to a branch of a tree, and set
light to the wrapper.
After having destroyed a number of men in this
horrible manner,
he was himself, among many others, burnt to death, by the
explosion
of a powder-magazine on the northern slope of the Citadel
of
Cairo, in 1824, the year before my first arrival in Egypt. A
friend of
mine, who spoke to me of the atrocities of this monster,
added,
“When his corpse was taken to be buried, the Sheykh
El-'Aroosee
(who was Sheykh of the great mosque El-Azhar)
recited the funeral prayers
over it, in the mosque of the
Hasaneyn; and I acted as
‘muballigh' (to repeat the words of
the Imám): when
the Sheykh uttered the words, ‘Give your
testimony respecting
him,' and when I had repeated them, no
one of all the persons present, and
they were many, presumed to
give the answer, ‘He was of the
virtuous': all were silent. To
make the circumstance more glaring, I said
again, ‘Give your
testimony respecting him:' but not an answer
was heard; and
the Sheykh, in confusion, said, but in a very low voice,
‘May
God have mercy upon him.' Now we may certainly say of
this
cursed man,” continued my friend, “that he is
gone to hell: yet

his wife is constantly having
‘khatmehs' (recitations of the
Kur-án) performed in
her house for him; and lights two wax
candles, for his sake, every evening,
at the niche of the mosque
of the Hasaneyn.”
Every quarter in the metropolis has its sheykh, called “Sheykh
el-Hárah,” whose influence is exerted to maintain order,
to settle
any trifling disputes among the inhabitants, and to expel
those
who disturb the peace of their neighbours. The whole of the
metropolis is also divided into eight districts, over each of which
is a
sheykh, called “Sheykh et-Tumn.”
The members of various trades and manufactures in the metropolis
and other
large towns have also their respective sheykhs, to
whom all disputes
respecting matters connected with those trades
or crafts are submitted for
arbitration; and whose sanction is
required for the admission of new
members.
The servants in the metropolis are likewise under the authority
of
particular sheykhs. Any person in want of a servant may
procure one by
applying to one of these officers, who, for a small
fee (two or three
piasters), becomes responsible for the conduct
of the man whom he
recommends. Should a servant so engaged
rob his master, the later gives
information to the sheykh, who,
whether he can recover the stolen property
or not, must indemnify the master.
Even the common thieves used, not many years since, to
respect a superior,
who was called their sheykh. He was often
required to search for stolen
goods, and to bring offenders to
justice; which he generally accomplished.
It is very remarkable
that the same strange system prevailed among the
ancient
Egyptians.
1
1 See Diodorus Siculus, lib. i., cap. 80.
The Coptic Patriarch, who is the head of his church, judges
petty causes
among his people in the metropolis; and the inferior
clergy do the same in
other places; but an appeal may be made
to the Kádee. A Muslim
aggrieved by a Copt may demand
justice from the Patriarch or the
Kádee: a Copt who seeks
redress from a Muslim must apply to the
Kádee. The Jews are
similarly circumstanced. The Franks, or
Europeans in general,
are not answerable to any other authority than that
of their
respective consuls, excepting when they are aggressors against
a
Muslim: they are then surrendered to the Turkish authorities,
who,
on the other hand, will render justice to the Frank who is
aggrieved by a
Muslim.
The inhabitants of the country-towns and villages are under
the government
of Turkish officers and of their own countrymen.
The whole of Egypt is
divided into several large provinces, each
of which is governed by an
'Osmánlee (or a Turk); and these
provinces are subdivided into
districts, which are governed by
native officers, with the titles of
“Mamoor and Názir.” Every
village, as well
as town, has also its Sheykh, called “Sheykh
el-Beled;” who is one of the native Muslim inhabitants. All the
officers above mentioned, excepting the last, were formerly Turks;
and
there were other Turkish governors of small districts, who
were called
“Ká-shifs,” and
“Káïm-makáms:” the change
was
made very shortly before my present visit to this country; and
the
Felláheen complain that their condition is worse than it was
before; but it is generally from the tyranny of their great Turkish
governors that they suffer most severely.
The following case will convey some idea of the condition of
Egyptian
peasants in some provinces. A Turk,
1 infamous for
many barbarous acts, presiding at
the town of
Tanta, in the
Delta, went one night to the government-granary
of that town,
and, finding two peasants sleeping there, asked them who
they
were, and what was their business in that place. One of them
said
that he had brought 130 ardebbs of corn from a village of
the district; and
the other, that he had brought 60 ardebbs from
the land belonging to the
town. “You rascal!” said the governor
to the latter;
“this man brings 130 ardebbs from the lands
of a small village;
and you, but 60 from the lands of the town.”
“This
man,” answered the peasant of
Tanta, “brings corn but
once a week; and I am now bringing it every day.” “Be
silent!” said the governor; and, pointing to a neighbouring
tree,
he ordered one of the servants of the granary to hang the
peasant
to one of its branches. The order was obeyed, and the governor
returned to his house. The next morning he went again to the
granary, and
saw a man brining in a large quantity of corn. He
asked who he was, and
what quantity he had brought; and was
answered, by the hangman of the
preceding night, “This is the
man, Sir, whom I hanged by your
orders, last night; and he has
brought 160 ardebbs.”
“What!” exclaimed the governor: “has
he
risen from the dead?” He was answered, “No, Sir; I
hanged
him so that his toes touched the ground; and when you were
gone, I untied the rope: you did not order me to
kill
him.” The
Turk muttered, “Aha! hanging and
killing are different things:
1 Suleymán A'gha, the
Silahdár.

Arabic is copious: next time I will
say kill. Take care of Aboo-Dá-ood.”
1
This is his nick-name.
1 Aboo-Dá-ood, Aboo-' Alee, etc., are
patronymics, used by the Egyptian
peasants in general, not as
signifying “Father of Dá-ood,”
“Father of 'Alee,”
etc., but “whose
father is (or was) Dá-ood,”
“—Alee,” etc.
Another occurrence may here be aptly related, as a further
illustration of
the nature of the government to which the people
of Egypt are subjected. A
felláh, who was appointed Názir (or
governor) of the
district of El-Manoofeeyeh (the southernmost
district of the Delta), a
short time before my present visit to
Egypt, in collecting the taxes at a
village, demanded, of a poor
peasant, the sum of sixty riyáls
(ninety faddahs each, making a
sum total of a hundred and thirty-five
piasters, which was then
equivalent to about thirty shillings). The poor
man urged that
he possessed nothing but a cow, which barely afforded
sustenance
to himself and his family. Instead of pursuing the method
usually followed when a felláh declares himself unable to pay
the
tax demanded of him, which is to give him a severe bastinading,
the Názir, in this case, sent the Sheykh el-Beled to bring the
poor peasant's cow, and desired some of the felláheen to buy it.
They saying that they had not sufficient money, he sent for a
butcher, and
desired him to kill the cow; which was done: he
then told him to divide it
into sixty pieces. The butcher asked
for his pay; and was given the head of
the cow. Sixty felláheen
were then called together; and each of
them was compelled to
purchase, for a riyál, a piece of the cow.
The owner of the cow
went, weeping and complaining, to the
Názir's superior, the late
Mohammad Bey, Deftardár.
“O my master,” said he, “I am
oppressed
and in misery: I had no property but one cow, a
milch cow: I and my family
lived upon her milk; and she
ploughed for me, and threshed my corn; and my
whole subsistence
was derived from her: the Názir has taken her,
and
killed her, and cut her up into sixty pieces, and sold the pieces
to my neighbours—to each a piece, for one riyál; so that
he
obtained but sixty riyáls for the whole, while the value of
the
cow was a hundred and twenty riyáls, or more. I am
oppressed
and in misery, and a stranger in the place, for I came from
another village; but the Názir had no pity on me. I and my
family are become beggars, and have nothing left. Have mercy
upon me, and
give me justice: I implore it by thy hareem.”
The
Deftardár, having caused the Názir to be brought
before
him, asked him, “Where is the cow of this
felláh?” “I have

sold it,” said the
Názir. “For how much?” “For sixty
riyáls.”
“Why did you kill it and sell
it?” “He owed sixty riyáls for
land: so I
took his cow, and killed it, and sold it for the
amount.”
“Where is the butcher that killed it?” “In
Manoof.” The butcher was sent for, and brought. The
Deftardár said to him, “Why did you kill this man's
cow?”
“The Názir desired me,”
he answered, “and I could not oppose
him: if I had attempted to
do so, he would have beaten me, and
destroyed my house: I killed it; and
the Názir gave me the
head as my reward.”
“Man,” said the Deftradár, “do you
know
the persons who bought the meat?” The butcher replied
that
he did. The Deftardár then desired his secretary to write
the
names of the sixty men, and an order to the sheykh of their
village to bring them to Manoof, where this complaint was made.
The
Názir and butcher were placed in confinement till the next
morning; when the sheykh of the village came, with the sixty
felláheen. The two prisoners were then brought again before
the
Deftardár, who said to the sheykh and the sixty peasants,
“Was the value of this man's cow sixty riyáls?”
“O our
master,” they answered, “her value
was greater.” The Deftardár
sent for the
Kádee of Manoof, and said to him, “O Kádee,
here
is a man oppressed by this Názir, who has taken his cow,
and
killed it; and sold its flesh for sixty riyáls. What is thy
judgment?”
The Kádee replied, “He is a
cruel tyrant, who
oppresses every one under his authority. Is not a cow
worth a
hundred and twenty riyáls, or more? and he has sold this
one for
sixty riyáls: this is tyranny towards the
owner.” The Deftardár
then said to some of his
soldiers, “Take the Názir, and strip
him, and bind
him.” This done, he said to the butcher,
“Butcher,
dost thou not fear God? Thou has killed the cow
unjustly.” The
butcher again urged that he was obliged to obey
the Názir.
“Then,” said the Deftardár, “if I
order thee to do
a thing, wilt thou do it?” “I will
do it,” answered the butcher.
“Slaughter the
Názir,” said the Deftardár. Immediately,
several
of the soldiers present seized the Názir, and threw him
down;
and the butcher cut his throat, in the regular orthodox manner
of killing animals for food. “Now, cut him up,” said
the
Deftardár, “into sixty pieces.” This
was done: the people concerned
in the affair, and many others, looking on;
but none
daring to speak. The sixty peasants who had bought the meat
of the cow were then called forward, one after another, and each
was made
to take a piece of the flesh of the Názir, and to pay for it

two riyáls; so that a
hundred and twenty riyáls were obtained from
them. They were
then dismissed; but the butcher remained.
The Kádee was asked
what should be the reward of the butcher;
and answered that he should be
paid as he had been paid by the
Názir. The Deftardár
therefore ordered that the head of the
Názir should be given to
him; and the butcher went away with
his worse than valueless burden,
thanking God that he had not
been more unfortunate, and scarcely believing
himself to have so
easily escaped until he arrived at his village. The
money paid
for the flesh of the Názir was given to the owner of
the cow.
Most of the governors of provinces and districts carry their
oppression far
beyond the limits to which they are authorized to
proceed by the
Básha; and even the sheykh of a village, in
executing the
commands of his superiors, abuses his lawful
power: bribes, and the ties of
relationship and marriage,
influence him and them, and by lessening the
oppression of
some, who are more able to bear it, greatly increase that
of
others. But the office of a sheykh of a village is far from being
a
sinecure: at the period when the taxes are demanded of him,
he frequently
receives a more severe bastinading than any of his
inferiors; for when the
population of a village does not yield the
sum required, their sheykh is
often beaten for their default: and
not always does he produce his own
proportion until he has been
well thrashed. All the felláheen
are proud of the stripes they
receive for withholding their contributions;
and are often heard
to boast of the number of blows which were inflicted
upon them
before they would give up their money. Ammianus Marcellinus
gives precisely the same character to the Egyptians of his time.
1
1 Lib, xxii. The more easily the peasant pays,
the more is he made to pay.
The revenue of the Básha of Egypt is generally said to amount
to
about three millions of pounds sterling.
2 Nearly half arises
from the direct taxes on
land, and from indirect exactions from
the felláheen: the
remainder, principally from the custom-taxes,
the tax on palm-trees, a kind
of income-tax, and the sale of
various productions of the land; by which
sale, the government,
in most instances, obtains a profit of more than
fifty per cent.
2 Some estimate it at five millions; others, at little more than two
millions.
The present Básha has increased his revenue to this amount
by
most oppressive measures. He has dispossessed of their
lands almost all the
private proprietors throughout Egypt, allotting

to each, as a partial compensation,
a pension for life, proportioned
to the extent and quality of the land
which belonged
to him. The farmer has, therefore, nothing to leave to
his
children but his hut, and perhaps a few cattle and some small
savings.
The direct taxes on land are proportioned to the natural
advantages of the
soil. Their average amount is about 8
s. per
feddán, which is nearly equal to an English acre.
1 But the
cultivator
can never calculate exactly the full amount of what the
government will require of him: he suffers from indirect exactions
of
quantities (differing in different years, but always levied per
feddán) of butter, honey, wax, wool, baskets of palm-leaves,
ropes
of the fibres of the palm-tree, and other commodities: he is
also
obliged to pay the hire of the camels which convey his grain to
the government shooneh (or granary), and to defray various other
expenses.
A portion of the produce of his land is taken by the
government,
2 and sometimes the
whole produce, at a fixed and
fair price, which, however, in many parts of
Egypt, is retained to
make up for the debts of the insolvent peasants.
3 The
felláh,
to supply the bare necessaries of life, is often obliged
to steal,
and convey secretly to his hut, as much as he can of the
produce
of his land. He may either himself supply the seed for his
land,
or obtain it as a loan from the government: but in the latter
case
he seldom obtains a sufficient quantity, a considerable portion
being generally stolen by the persons through whose hands it
passes before
he receives it. To relate all the oppressions which
the peasantry of Egypt
endure from the dishonesty of the Mamoors
and inferior officers would
require too much space in the
present work. It would be scarcely possible
for them to suffer
more, and live. It may be hardly necessary, therefore,
to add,
that few of them engage, with assiduity, in the labours of
agriculture,
unless compelled to do so by their superiors.
1 The feddán has lately been reduced:
it was equal to about an English
acre and one-tenth a few years ago;
and somewhat more at an earlier period.
2 Of some productions, as cotton, flax, etc.,
the government always takes
the whole.
3 Even the debts of the peasantry of one village
are often imposed upon
the inhabitants of another who have paid all
that is justly due from them.
The Básha has not only taken possession of the lands of the
private proprietors, but he has also thrown into his treasury a
considerable
proportion of the incomes of religious and charitable
institutions,
deeming their accumulated wealth superfluous. He first

imposed a tax (of nearly half the
amount of the regular land-tax)
upon all land which had become a
“wakf” (or legacy unalienable by
law) to any mosque,
fountain, public school, etc.; and afterwards
took absolute possession of
such lands, granting certain annuities
in lieu of them, for keeping in
repair the respective buildings, and
for the maintenance of those persons
attached to them, as Názirs
(or wardens), religious ministers,
inferior servants, students, and
other pensioners. He has thus rendered
himself extremely odious
to most persons of the religious and learned
professions, and especially
to the Názirs of the mosques, who
too generally enriched
themselves from the funds intrusted to their care,
which were,
in most cases, superabundant. The
household property of the
mosques and other public institutions (the
wakfs of numerous
individuals of various ranks) the Básha has
hitherto left inviolate.
The tax upon the palm-trees has been calculated to amount to
about a hundred
thousand pounds sterling. The trees are rated
according to their qualities;
generally at a piaster and a half each.
The income-tax, which is called “firdeh,” is generally a
twelfth
or more of a man's annual income or salary, when that can be
ascertained. The maximum, however, is fixed at five hundred
piasters. In
the large towns it is levied upon individuals; in the
villages upon houses.
The income-tax of all the inhabitants of
the metropolis amounts to eight
thousand purses, or about forty
thousand pounds sterling.
The inhabitants of the metropolis and of other large towns pay
a heavy tax
on grain, etc. The tax on each kind of grain is eighteen
piasters per
ardebb (or about five bushels); which sum is
equal to the price of wheat in
the country after a good harvest.
1
1 The above account of the government of Egypt,
having been written in
the years 1834 and 1835, is not altogether
correct with respect to the present
time (1842). Great changes are now
being made in various departments; and
as the Básha has no
longer to maintain an enormous military and naval force,
he will be
able to ameliorate very considerably the condition of the people
whom
he governs. Most of the evils of which the people of Egypt have
hitherto had to complain have arisen from the vast expense incurred in
war,
from the conscription, and from the dishonesty of almost all the
Básha's civil
officers.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER V.
DOMESTIC LIFE.
HAVING sufficiently considered the foundations of the moral and
social state
of the Muslims of Egypt, we may now take a view of
their domestic life and
ordinary habits; and, first, let us confine
our attention to the higher and
middle orders.
A master of a family, or any person who has arrived at manhood,
and is not
in a menial situation, or of very low condition,
is commonly honoured with
the appellation of “the sheykh,” prefixed
to his
name. The word “sheykh” literally signifies
“an
elder,” or “an aged
person”; but it is often used as synonymous
with our appellation
of “Mister”; though more particularly
applied to a
learned man, or a reputed saint. A “shereef,” or
descendant of the Prophet, is called “the seyd,” or
“the seyyid”
(master, or lord), whatever be his
station. Many shereefs are
employed in the lowest offices: there are
servants, dustmen, and
beggars, of the honoured race of Mohammad; but all
of them
are entitled to the distinctive appellation above mentioned,
and
privileged to wear the green turban;
1 many of them, however,
not only among those of
humble station, but also among the
wealthy, and particularly the learned,
assume neither of these
prerogatives; preferring the title of
“sheykh,” and the white
turban. A man who has
performed the pilgrimage is generally
called “the
hágg;”
2 and a woman who has alike distinguished
herself,
“the hággeh:” yet there are many pilgrims who,
like
those shereefs just before alluded to, prefer the title of
“sheykh.”
The general appellation of a lady is
“the sitt,” which signifies
“the
mistress,” or “the lady.”
1 Men and women of this race often contract
marriages with persons who
are not members of the same; and as the
title of shereef is inherited from
either of the parents, the number of
persons who enjoy this distinction has
become very considerable.
2 This word is thus pronounced by the
inhabitants of Cairo and the greater
part of Egypt; but in most other
countries where Arabic is spoken,
“hájj.”
The Turks and Persians use,
instead of it, the synonymous Arabic word
“hájjee.”
Before I describe the ordinary habits of the master of a family,
I must
mention the various classes of persons of whom the
family may consist. The
hareem, or the females of the house,
have distinct apartments alloted to
them; and into these apartments

(which, as well as the persons to
whom they are appropriated,
are called “the hareem”)
no males are allowed to enter, excepting
the master of the family, and
certain other near relations, and
children. The hareem may consist, first,
of a wife, or wives (to
the number of four); secondly, of female slaves,
some of whom,
namely, white and Abyssinian slaves, are generally
concubines,
and others (the black slaves) kept merely for servile offices,
as
cooking, waiting upon the ladies, etc.; thirdly, of female free
servants, who are, in no case, concubines, or not legitimately so.
The male
dependants may consist of white and of black slaves,
and free servants; but
are mostly of the last-mentioned class.
Very few of the Egyptians avail
themselves of the licence, which
their religion allows them, of having four
wives; and still smaller
is the number of those who have two or more wives,
and concubines
besides. Even most of those men who have but one wife
are content, for the sake of domestic peace, if for no other
reason, to
remain without a concubine slave: but some prefer the
possession of an
Abyssinian slave to the more expensive maintenance
of a wife; and keep a
black slave-girl, or an Egyptian female
servant, to wait upon her, to clean
and keep in order the apartments
of the hareem, and to cook. It is seldom
that two
or more wives are kept in the same house: if they be, they
generally have distinct apartments. Of male servants, the master
of a
family keeps, if he can afford to do so, one or more to wait
upon him and
his male guests: another, who is called a “sakka,”
or
water-carrier, but who is particularly a servant of the hareem,
and attends
the ladies when they go out;
1 a “bowwáb,” or doorkeeper,
who
constantly sits at the door of the house; and a
“sáïs,”
or groom, for the
horse, mule, or ass. Few of the Egyptians have
“memlooks,” or male white slaves; most of these being in
the
possession of rich 'Osmánlees (Turks); and scarcely any
but
Turks of high rank keep eunuchs: but a wealthy Egyptian merchant
is proud of having a black slave to ride or walk behind him,
and to carry
his pipe.
1 Unless there be a eunuch. The sakka is
generally the chief of the servants.
The Egyptian is a very early riser; as he riser; as he retires to sleep at
an
early hour: it is his duty to be up and dressed before daybreak,
when he should say the morning-prayers. In general, while the
master of a
family is performing the religious ablution, and saying
his prayers, his
wife or slave is preparing for him a cup of coffee,
and filling his pipe,
which she presents to him as soon as he has
acquitted himself of his
religious duties.

Many of the Egyptians take nothing before noon but the cup
of coffee and the
pipe: others take a light meal at an early hour.
The meal of breakfast
(“el-fatoor”) generally consists of bread,
with eggs,
butter, cheese, clouted cream, or curdled milk, etc.; or
of a
“fateereh,” which is a kind of pastry, saturated with
butter,
made very thin, and folded over and over like a napkin: it is
eaten alone, or with a little honey poured over it, or sugar. A
very common
dish for breakfast is “fool mudemmes,” or beans,
similar to our horse-beans, slowly boiled, during a whole night, in
an
earthen vessel, buried, all but the neck, in the hot ashes of an
oven or a
bath, and having the mouth closely stopped: they are
eaten with
linseed-oil, or butter, and generally with a little lime-juice:
thus
prepared, they are sold in the morning in the sooks
(or markets) of
Cairo
and other towns. A meal is often made (by
those who cannot afford luxuries)
of bread and a mixture called
“dukkah,” which is
commonly composed of salt and pepper, with
“zaatar”
(or wild marjoram) or mint or cumin-seed, and with one,
or more, or all, of
the following ingredients.: namely, coriander-seed,
cinnamon, sesame, and
“hommus” (or chick-peas): each
mouthful of bread is
dipped in this mixture. The bread is always
made in the form of a round
flat cake, generally about a span in
width, and a finger's breadth in
thickness.
The pipe and the cup of coffee are enjoyed by almost all persons
who can
afford such luxuries, very early in the morning, and often-times
during the
day. There are many men who are scarcely ever
seen without a pipe either in
their hand or carried behind them
by a servant. The smoker keeps his
tobacco for daily use in
a purse or bag made of shawl-stuff, or silk, or
velvet, which is often
accompanied with a small pouch containing a flint
and steel, and
some agaric tinder, and is usually crammed into his bosom.
The pipe (which is called by many names, as “shibuk,”
“'ood,”
etc.) is generally between four and five feet
long; some pipes are
shorter, and some are of greater length. The most
common kind
used in Egypt is made of a kind of wood called
“garmash'ak.”
1
The greater part of the stick (from the mouth-piece to about
three-quarters
of its length) is covered with silk, which is confined
at
each extremity by gold thread, often intertwined with coloured
silks, or by a tube of gilt silver; and at the lower extremity of the
covering is a tassel of silk. The covering was originally designed
to be
moistened with water, in order to cool the pipe, and, consequently,

the smoke, by evaporation; but this
is only done when
the pipe is old, or not handsome. Cherry-stick pipes,
which are

PIPES.
never covered, are also used by many persons, particularly in the
winter. In summer the smoke is not so cool from the cherry-stick
pipe as
from the kind before mentioned. The bowl is of baked

earth, coloured red or brown.
1 The mouth-piece is
composed of
two or more pieces of opaque, light-coloured amber,
interjoined
by ornaments of enamelled gold, agate, jasper, carnelion, or
some
other precious substance. It is the most costly part of the pipe;
the price of one of the kind most generally used by persons of
the middle
order is from about one to three pounds sterling. A
wooden tube passes
through it. This is often changed, as it soon
becomes foul from the oil of
the tobacco. The pipe also requires
to be cleaned very often, which is done
with tow, by means of
a long wire. Many poor men in
Cairo gain their
livelihood by
going about to clean pipes.
1 To preserve the matting or carpet from injury,
a small brass tray is often
placed beneath the bowl; and a small tray
of wood is made use of to receive the ashes of the tobacco.
The tobacco smoked by persons of the higher orders, and some
others, in
Egypt, is of a very mild and delicious flavour. It is
mostly from the
neighbourhood of El-Ládikeeyeh, in
Syria. The
best kind is the
“mountain tobacco,” grown on the hills about
that
town. A stronger kind, which takes its name from the town
of Soor,
sometimes mixed with the former, is used by most persons
of the middle
orders. In smoking, the people of Egypt and of
other countries of the East
draw in their breath freely, so that
much of the smoke descends into the
lungs; and the terms which
they use to express “smoking
tobacco” signify “
drinking
smoke,”
or “
drinking
tobacco,” for the same word signifies both
“smoke”
and “tobacco.” Few of
them spit while smoking; I have very
seldom seen any do so.
Some of the Egyptians use the Persian pipe, in which the
smoke passes
through water. The pipe of this kind most commonly
used by persons of the
higher classes is called “nárgeeleh,”
because the vessel that contains the water is a cocoa-nut, of which
“nárgeeleh” is an Arabic name. Another kind,
which has a glass
vase, is called “sheesheh.”
2 Each has a very long
flexible tube.
A particular kind of tobacco, called
“tumbák,” from Persia, is
used in the
water-pipe” it is first washed several times, and put
into the
pipe-bowl while damp, and two or three pieces of live
charcoal are placed
on the top. Its flavour is mild, and very
agreeable; but the strong
inhalation necessary in this mode of
smoking is injurious to persons of
delicate lungs.
3 In
using the
2 A Persian word, signifying
“glass.”
3 It is, however, often recommended in the case
of a cough. One of my
friends, the most celebrated of the poets of
Cairo, who is much troubled by
asthma, uses the nárgeeleh
almost incessantly from morning till night.

Persian pipe, the person as freely
draws the smoke into his lungs
as he would inhale pure air. The great
prevalence of liver-complaints
in Arabia is attributed to the general use
of the nárgeeleh;
and many persons in Egypt suffer severely from
the same
cause. A kind of pipe commonly called
“gózeh,” which is
similar to the
nárgeeleh, excepting that it has a short cane tube,
instead of
the snake (or flexible one), and no stand, is used by
men of the lowest
class, for smoking both the tumbák and the
intoxicating
“hasheesh,” or hemp.
The coffee (“kahweh”
1) is made very strong, and without
sugar or milk.
The coffee-cup (which is called “fingán”) is
small,
generally holding not quite an ounce and a half of liquid. It
is
of porcelain, or Dutch ware, and, being without a handle, is placed

COFFEE SERVICE.
within another cup (called “zarf”), of silver or
brass, according
to the circumstances of the owner, and, both in shape and
size,
nearly resembling our egg-cup.
2 In preparing the coffee, the
water is first made
to boil, the coffee (freshly roasted and pounded)
1 This is the name of the beverage; the berries (whether whole or
pounded)
are called “bunn.”
2 In a full service there are ten
fingáns and zarfs of uniform kinds, and often
another
fingán and zarf of a superior kind for the master of the house,
or for
a distinguished guest. In the accompanying sketch, the
coffee-pot (“bekreg,”
or
“bakrag”) and the zarfs and tray are of silver, and
are represented on a
scale of one-eighth of the real size. Below this
set are a similar zarf and fingán,
on a scale of one-fourth,
and a brass zarf, with the fingán placed in it. Some
zarfs
are of plain or gilt silver filigree; and a few opulent persons have them
of
gold. Many Muslims, however, religiously disallow all utensils of
gold and
of silver.

is then put in, and stirred, after
which the pot is again placed on
the fire, once or twice, until the coffee
begins to simmer, when it
is taken off, and its contents are poured out
into the cups while
the surface is yet creamy. The Egyptians are
excessively fond
of pure and strong coffee thus prepared, and very seldom
add
sugar to it (though some do so when they are unwell), and never
milk or cream; but a little cardamom-seed is often added to it.
It is a
common custom, also, to fumigate the cup with the smoke
of mastic; and the
wealthy sometimes impregnate the coffee with
the delicious fragrance of
ambergris. The most general mode of
doing this is to put about a
carat-weight of ambergris in a coffee-pot,
and melt it over a fire; then
make the coffee in another pot,
in the manner before described, and, when
it has settled a little,
pour it into the pot which contains the ambergris.
Some persons
make use of the ambergris, for the same purpose, in a
different
way, sticking a piece of it, of the weight of about two carats,
in
the bottom of the cup, and then pouring in the coffee; a piece
of
the weight above mentioned will serve for two or three weeks.
This mode is
often adopted by persons who like always to have
the coffee which they
themselves drink flavoured with this perfume,
and do not give all their
visitors the same luxury. The coffee-pot
is sometimes brought in a vessel
of silver or brass (called
“'áz'kee”
1), containing burning
charcoal. This vessel is suspended
by three chains. In presenting the
coffee, the servant
holds the foot of the zarf with his thumb and first
finger. In
receiving the fingán and zarf, he makes use of both
hands, placing
the left beneath and the right above at the same instant.
1 Baron Hammer-Purgstall considers this word a
corruption, and writes
“chasseki” in its stead;
“'áz'kee” (for
“'ázikee) is, however, the term used
by the
Egyptians.
In cold weather, a brasier, or chafing-dish (called
“mankal,”
and vulgarly
“mankad”), of tinned copper, full of burning
charcoal,
is placed on the floor, and sometimes perfume is burnt in
it.
The Egyptians take great delight in perfumes,
2 and often fumigate
their
apartments. The substance most commonly used for this
purpose is
frankincense of an inferior quality, called “bakhoor
el-barr.”
Benzoin and aloes-wood are also used for the same
purpose.
2 They sometimes perfume the beard and mustaches
with civet.
If he can conveniently afford to keep a horse, mule, or ass, or
to hire an
ass, the Egyptian is seldom seen walking far beyond
the threshold of his
own house; but very few of the people of
Cairo, or of the other towns,
venture to expose themselves to the

suspicion of possessing superfluous
wealth, and, consequently, to
greater exactions of the government than they
would otherwise
suffer, by keeping horses.
1 The modern saddle of the horse is
generally padded, and covered with cloth or velvet, embroidered,
or
otherwise ornamented; and the head-stall and breast-leather
are adorned
with silk tassels, and coins, or other ornaments, of
silver. Wealthy
merchants, and the great 'ulama, usually ride
mules. The saddle of the mule
is, generally, nearly the same as
that of the ass, of which a sketch is
inserted; when the rider is
one of the 'ulama, it is covered with a
“seggádeh” (or prayer-carpet;
so, also,
sometimes, is the ladies' saddle, from which,
however, the former differs
considerably, as will be shown hereafter.
Asses are most generally used for
riding through the narrow
and crowded streets of
Cairo, and there are many
for hire; their
usual pace is an easy amble. Egypt has long been famed for its

ÁZ'KEE AND MANKALS.2
excellent asses, which are, in general, larger than those of our
country, and very superior to the latter in every respect. The
usual price
of one of a good breed and well trained is about three
or four pounds
sterling. The ass is furnished with a stuffed saddle,
the forepart of which
is covered with red leather, and the seat,
most commonly, with a kind of
soft woollen lace, similar to our
coach-lace, of red, yellow, and other
colours. The stirrup-leathers
1 Whether walking or riding, a person of the
higher classes is usually
attended by a servant bearing his pipe.
2 One of the latter (that to the right) is an
earthen vessel. Each of the
above utensils is represented on a scale of
about one-eighth of the real size.

are, in every case, very short. The
horseman is preceded by
a servant, or by two servants, to clear the way;
and, for the same
purpose, a servant generally runs beside or behind the
ass, or
sometimes before, calling out to the passengers to move out of
the way to the right or left, or to take care of their backs, faces,
sides,
feet, or heels.
1 The
rider, however, must be vigilant, and
not trust merely to his servant, or
he may be thrown down by the
wide load of a camel, which accident, indeed,
is sometimes unavoidable
in the more narrow and crowded streets. His pipe
is
generally carried by the servant, and filled and lighted if he
dismount
at a house or shop.
1 “Yemeenak!
shimálak!” (to thy right! to thy left!),
“dahrak!” (thy
back!),
“wishshak!” (thy face!),
“gembak!” (thy side!), “riglak!”
(thy
foot!), “kaabak!” (thy heel!), and, to a
Turk, “sákin!” (take care!), are
the
most common cries. The following appellations are also often added:
“yá efendee!” (to a Turk),
“yá sheykh!” (to an old or a middle-aged
Muslim
native), “yá sabee!” (to a
young man), “yá weled!” or
“yá ibnee!”
(to a boy),
“yá shereef!” (to a green turbaned
descendant of the Prophet),
“yá
m'allim!” (to a native Christian, or a Jew),
“yá khawágeh!” (to a
Frank), “yá sitt!” (to a lady, or a female
of the middle order), and “yá
bint!”
that is “daughter,” or “girl”
(to a poor female). A woman of the
lower class, however old she be, the
servant must call “girl,” or
“daughter,”
or probably she will not move an inch
out of the way. A little girl, or young
woman, is often called
“'arooseh,” or “bride;” and
“hággeh,” or “female
pilgrim,” is an appellation often given to women in the
streets.
If he have no regular business to employ him, the Egyptian
spends the
greater part of the day in riding, paying visits, or making
purchases; or
in smoking and sipping coffee and chatting with
a friend at home; or he
passes an hour or more in the morning
enjoying the luxuries of a public
bath. At noon he has again to
say prayers, if he fulfil the duties imposed
on him by his religion;
but, as I have remarked on a former occasion, there
are comparatively
few persons among the Egyptians who do not sometimes
neglect these duties, and there are many who scarcely ever pray.
Directly
after midday (if he has not taken a late breakfast) he
dines, then takes a
pipe and a cup of coffee, and, in hot weather,
usually indulges himself
with a nap. Often he retires to recline
in the hareem, where a wife or
female slave watches over his
repose, or rubs the soles of his feet with
her hands. On such
occasions, and at other times when he wishes to enjoy
privacy,
every person who comes to pay him a visit is told, by the
servant,
that he is in the hareem; and no friend expects him to be
called
thence, unless on very urgent business. From the time of the
afternoon-prayers until sunset (the next time of prayer) he generally

enjoys again his pipe and a cup of
coffee in the society of
some one or more of his friends at home or abroad.
Shortly after
sunset he sups.
I must now describe the meals of dinner (“el-ghada”)
and
supper (“el-'asha”), and the manner and etiquette
of eating.
The same remarks will apply to both these repasts;
excepting
that supper is always the principal meal. It is the general
custom
to cook in the afternoon, and what remain of the supper is
eaten
the next day for dinner, when there are no guests in the house.
The master of a family generally dines and sups with his wife or

WASHING BEFORE OR AFTER A MEAL.
wives and children; but there are many men, particularly of the
higher classes, who are too proud to do this, or too much engaged
in
society to be able to do so, unless on some few occasions;
and there are
men even of the lowest class who scarcely ever
eat with their wives or
children. When a person is paying a
visit to a friend, and the hour of
dinner or supper arrives, it is
incumbent on the master of the house to
order the meal to be
brought; and the same is generally considered
necessary if the
visitor be a stranger.
Every person, before he sits down to the table, or rather to the

tray, washes his hands,
1 and sometimes his
mouth also, with soap
and water; or, at least, has some water poured upon
his right
hand. A servant brings to him a basin and ewer (called
“tisht”
and “ibreek”), of
tinned copper, or brass.
2 The former of these
has a cover pierced with holes, with a raised
receptacle for the
soap in the middle; and the water, being poured upon
the
hands, passes through this cover into the space below; so that
when the basin is brought to a second person, the water with
which the
former one has washed is not seen. A napkin
(“footah”)
is given to each person.
2 In the houses of some of the opulent, these
utensils are of silver. I have
also seen some of gilt copper.
A round tray (called “seeneeyeh,” and
“sáneeyeh”) of tinned
copper, or sometimes
of brass, generally between two and three
feet in diameter, serves as a
table; being placed upon a stool

TISHT AND IBREEK.3
(“kursee”) about fifteen inches high made of
wood, and often
covered with mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, bone, etc.
These
two pieces of furniture compose the “sufrah.”
Round cakes of
bread, such as have been before described, sometimes cut
in
halves across the middle, are placed round the tray, with several
limes, cut in two, to be squeezed over any of the dishes that
may require
the acid; and a spoon of box-wood, or of ebony,
or tortoise-shell, is put
for each person. The bread often serves
3 The width of the former is fourteen inches;
and the height of the latter,
the same

as a plate. Several dishes of
tinned copper, or of china, containing
different kinds of viands,
vegetables, etc., are then placed
upon the tray, according to the common
fashion of the country;
or only one dish is put on at a time, after the
Turkish mode.
The persons who are to partake of the repast sit upon the
floor around the
tray, each with his napkin upon his knees;
or, if the tray be placed near
the edge of a low deewán, which
is often done, some of the
persons may sit on the deewán, and
the others on the floor: but
if the party be numerous, the tray
is placed in the middle of the room, and
they sit round it with
one knee on the ground, and the other (the right)
raised; and,

KURSEE AND SEENEEYEH.
in this manner, as many as twelve persons may sit round a tray
three feet wide. Each person bares his right arm to the elbow,
or tucks up
the hanging end of his sleeve. Before he begins to
eat, he say,
“Bi-smi-llah” (In the name of God).
1 This is
generally said in a low,
but audible voice; and by the master
of the house first. It is considered
both as a grace and as an
invitation to any person to partake of the meal;
and when any
one is addressed with “Bi-smi-llah,” or
“Tafaddal” (which latter
signifies, in this case,
“Do me the favour to partake of the
1 Or
“Bi-smi-lláhi-r-rahmáni-r-raheem”
(In the name of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful).

repast”), he must reply,
if he do not accept the invitation,
“Heneeän” (or “May it be productive
of enjoyment,” or
“benefit”), or use some
similar expression: else it will be feared
that an evil eye has been cast
upon the food; and they say that,
“in the food that is
coveted” (or upon which an envious eye
has fallen),
“there is no blessing.” But the manner in which
the
Egyptian often presses a stranger to eat with him, shows
that feelings of
hospitality most forcibly dictate the “Bi-smi-llah.”

A PARTY AT DINNER OR SUPPER.1
The master of the house first begins to eat; the guests or others
immediately follow his example. Neither knives nor forks are
used: the
thumb and two fingers of the right hand serve instead
of those instruments;
but the spoons are used for soup or rice,
or other things that cannot be
easily taken without; and both
hands may be used in particular cases, as
will be presently
1 One of the servants is holding a water-bottle:
the other, a fly-whisk,
made of palm leaves.

explained. When there are several
dishes upon the tray, each
person takes of any that he likes, or of every
one in succession:
when only one dish is placed upon the tray at a time,
each takes
from it a few mouthfuls, and it is quickly removed, to give
place
to another.
1 To pick out a delicate morsel, and hand it to a
friend, is
esteemed polite. The manner of eating with the
fingers, as practised in
Egypt and other Eastern countries, is more
delicate than may be imagined by
Europeans who have not witnessed
it, nor heard it correctly described. Each
person breaks
off a small piece of bread, dips it in the dish, and then
conveys it
to his mouth, together with a small portion of the meat or
other
contents of the dish.
2 The piece of bread is generally doubled
together, so as to enclose the morsel of meat, etc.; and only the
thumb and
first and second fingers are commonly used. When
a person takes a piece of
meat too large for a single mouthful, he
usually places it upon his bread.
1 Our Saviour and His disciples thus ate from
one dish. See Matt. xxvi.
23.
2 Or he merely sops his morsel of bread in the
dish. See Ruth ii. 14; and
John xiii. 26.
The food is dressed in such a manner that it may be easily
eaten in the mode
above-described. It generally consist, for
the most part, of
“yakhnee,” or stewed meat, with chopped
onions, or
with a quantity of “bámiyehs,”
3 or other
vegetables;
“káwurmeh,” or a richer stew,
with onions; “warak mahshee,”
or vine-leaves, or bits
of lettuce-leaf or cabbage-leaf, with a
mixture of rice and minced meat
(delicately seasoned with salt,
pepper, and onions, and often with garlic,
parsley, etc.) wrapped
up in them, and boiled; cucumbers
(“khiyár”), or black, white, or
red
“bádingáns,”
4 or a kind of gourd
(called “kara kooseh”) of
the size and shape of a
small cucumber, which are all “mahshee,”
or stuffed,
with the same composition as the leaves above-mentioned;
and
“kebáb,” or small morsels of mutton or
lamb,
roasted on skewers. Many dishes consist wholly, or for the most
part, of vegetables; such as cabbage, purslain, spinach, beans,
lupins,
chick peas, gourd cut into small pieces, colocasia, lentils,
3 The bámiyeh is the esculent
“hibiscus:” the part which is eaten is a
polygonal pod, generally between one and three inches in length, and of
the
thickness of a small finger: it is full of seeds and nutritive
mucilage, and has
a very pleasant flavour. A little lime-juice is
usually dropped on the plate
of bámiyehs.
4 The black and white
bádingán are the fruits of two kinds of
egg-plant:
the red is the tomato.

etc. Fish, dressed with oil, is
also a common dish. Most of
the meats are cooked with clarified butter, on
account of the
deficiency of fat; and are made very rich: the butter, in
the
hot season, is perfectly liquid. When a fowl is placed whole on
the tray, both hands are generally required to separate the joints;
or two
persons, each using the right hand alone, perform this
operation together:
but some will do it very cleverly without
assistance, and with a single
hand. Many of the Arabs will not
allow the left hand to touch food in any
case,
1 excepting
when
the right is maimed. A boned fowl, stuffed with raisins,
pistachio-nuts,
crumbled bread, and parsley, is not an uncommon dish;
and even a whole lamb, stuffed with pistachio-nuts, etc., is sometimes
served up; but the meat is easily separated with one
hand. Sweets are often
mixed with stewed meat, etc.; as, for
instance,
“'annáb” (or jujubes), peaches, apricots, etc.,
and
sugar, with yakhnee. Various kinds of sweets are also served up,
and often in no particular order with respect to other meats.
A favourite
sweet dish is “kunáfeh,” which is made of
wheat-flour,
and resembles vermicelli, but is finer; it is fried with
a
little clarified butter, and sweetened with sugar or honey. A
dish
of water-melon (“batteeikh”), if in season, generally
forms
part of the meal. This is cut up about a quarter of an hour
before, and left to cool in the external air, or in a current of
air, by
the evaporation of the juice on the surfaces of the slices;
but it is
always watched during this time, lest a serpent should
come to it, and
poison it by its breath or bite; for this reptile
is said to be extremely
fond of the water-melon, and to smell it
at a great distance. Water-melons
are very abundant in Egypt,
and mostly very delicious and wholesome. A dish
of boiled
rice (called “ruzz mufelfel,” the
“piláv” of the Turks), mixed
with a little
butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper, is generally
that from which the
last morsels are taken; but, in the houses of
the wealthy, this is often
followed by a bowl of “khusháf,”
2 a
sweet drink,
commonly consisting of water with raisins boiled
in it, and then sugar:
when cool, a little rose-water is dropped
into it.
3 The water-melon frequently supplies the
place of this.
4
1 Because used for unclean purposes.
2 So called from the Persian
“khósh áb,” or “sweet
water.”
3 It is drunk with ladles of tortoise-shell or
cocoa-nut.
4 The principal and best fruits of Egypt are
dates, grapes, oranges and
citrons of various kinds, common figs,
sycamore-figs, prickly pears, pomegranates,
bananas, and a great
variety of melons. From this enumeration,
it appears that there are not
many good fruits in this country.
The Egyptians eat very moderately, though quickly. Each
person, as soon as
he has finished, says, “El-hamdu li-lláh”
(Praise be to God),
1
and gets up, without waiting till the others
have done:
2 he then washes his
hands and mouth with soap and
water; the basin and ewer being held by a
servant, as before.
1Or, “El-hamdu li-ll´hi
rabbi-l-ἂlammeen” (Praise be to God, the Lord of all
creatures).
2It is deemed highly improper to rise during a
meal, even from respect to a
superior who may approach. It has been
mentioned before, that the Prophet
forbade his followers to rise while
eating, or when about to eat, even if the time
of prayer
arrived.
The only beverage at meals is water of the Nile, or, sometimes,
at the
tables of the rich, sherbet, which will presently be described.
The Arabs
drink little or no water
during a meal, but
generally
take a large draught immediately
after.
The water of the Nile is
remarkably good; but that of all the wells in
Cairo and in other
parts of Egypt is slightly brackish. In general, water
is drunk
either from an earthen bottle or from a brass cup.
3 The
water-bottles
are of two kinds; one called
“dórak,” and the other

WATER-BOTTLES.
“kulleh:” the former has a narrow, and the
latter a wide, mouth.
They are made of a greyish, porous earth, which cools
the water
deliciously, by evaporation; and they are, therefore,
generally
placed in a current of air. The interior is often blackened
with
the smoke of some resinous wood, and then perfumed with the
smoke
of “kafal”
4 wood and mastic; the latter used last. A
small
earthen vessel (called “mibkhar'ah”) is employed in
performing
3The ancient Egyptians used drinking-cups of
brass. (Herodotus, lib. ii.
cap. 37.)
4“Amyris kafal” of
Forskal. An Arabian tree.

these operations, to contain the
burning charcoal, which
is required to ignite the wood, and the mastic; and
the water-bottle
is held inverted over it. A strip of rag is tied round
the
neck of the dórak, at the distance of about an inch from
the
mouth, to prevent the smoke-black from extending too far upon
the
exterior of the bottle. Many persons also put a little orange-flower-water
into the bottles. This gives a very agreeable flavour
to their contents.
The bottles have stoppers of silver, brass, tin,
wood, or palm-leaves; and
are generally placed in a tray of tinned
copper, which receives the water
that exudes from them. In cold
weather, china bottles are used in many
houses instead of those
above-described, which then render the water too
cold.
1 The
two most common forms of drinking-cups are here represented.
Some of them
have texts of the Kur-án, etc., engraved in the interior,
or the
names of “the Seven Sleepers”: but inscriptions of
the former kind I have seldom seen. Every person, before and
after
drinking, repeats the same ejaculations as before and after
eating; and
this he does each time that he drinks during a meal:
each friend present
then says to him, “May it be productive of
enjoyment,” or “benefit”; to which the reply
is, “God cause thee
to have enjoyment.”
2
1 Baron Hammer-Purgstall has remarked, that two
other vessels should have
been mentioned here (in the first edition of
this work), more especially because
their names have been adopted in
European languages: they are the “garrah”
or
“jarrah,” a water-jar or pitcher, and the
“demigán” or
“demiján,” a large
bottle,
“la dame-jeanne.”
2 “Allah yehenneek” (for
“yuhenneek”).
Though we read, in some of the delightful tales of “The Thousand
and One Nights,” of removing “the table of
viands” and
bringing “the table of wine,”
this prohibited beverage is not
often introduced in general society, either
during or after the
meal, or at other times, by the Muslims of Egypt in the
present
day. Many of them, however, habitually indulge in drinking
wine with select parties of their acquaintance. The servants of a
man who
is addicted to this habit know such of his friends as may
be admitted, if
they happen to call when he is engaged in this
unlawful pleasure; and to
all others they say that he is not at
home, or that he is in the hareem.
Drinking wine is indulged in
by such persons before and after supper, and
during that meal;
but it is most approved
before
supper, as they say that it quickens
the appetite. The “table of
wine” is usually thus prepared, according
to a penitent Muslim
wine-bibber, who is one of my
friends (I cannot speak on this subject from
my own experience;

for, as I never drink wine, I have
never been invited to join a Muslim
wine-party):—a round
japanned tray, or a glass dish, is placed
on the stool before-mentioned: on
this are generally arranged two
cut-glass jugs, one containing wine,
1 and the other,
rosoglio; and
sometimes two or more bottles besides: several small glasses
are
placed with these; and glass saucers of dried and fresh fruits,
and,
perhaps, pickles: lastly, two candles, and often a bunch of
flowers
stuck in a candlestick, are put upon the tray.
1 “Nebeed” (more properly,
“nebeedh”), or
“mudám.”
The Egyptians have various kinds of sherbets, or sweet drinks.
The most
common kind
2 is merely
sugar and water, but very
sweet; lemonade
3 is another: a third kind, the most
esteemed,
is prepared from a hard conserve of violets, made by
pounding
violet-flowers, and then boiling them with sugar: this
violet-sherbet
is of a green colour: a fourth kind is prepared from
mulberries:
a fifth, from sorrel. There is also a kind of sherbet sold

SHERBET-CUPS.
in the streets,
4 which is made with raisins, as its name implies
another kind,
which is a strong infusion of liquorice-root, and called
by the name of
that root; and a third kind, which is prepared
from the fruit of the locust
tree, and called, in like manner, by
the name of the fruit. The sherbet is
served in coloured glass
cups, generally called
“kullehs,” containing about three-quarters
of a pint;
some of which (the more common kind) are ornamented
with gilt flowers, etc.
The sherbet-cups are placed on a round
tray, and covered with a round piece
of embroidered silk, or cloth
of gold. On the right arm of the person who
presents the sherbet
is hung a large oblong napkin with a wide embroidered
border of
gold and coloured silks at each end. This is ostensibly offered
2 Called simply
“sharbát,” or
“sharbát sukkar,” or only
“sukkar.”
3
“Leymoonáteh,” or
“sharáb el-leymoon.”
4 Called “zebeeb,” This
name is also given to an intoxicating conserve.

for the purpose of wiping the lips
after drinking the sherbet; but
it is really not so much for use as for
display: the lips are seldom
or scarcely touched with it.
The interval between supper and the “'eshë,” or
time of the
night-prayers, is generally passed in smoking a pipe, and
sipping
a cup of coffee. The enjoyment of the pipe may be interrupted
by prayer, but is continued afterwards; and sometimes draughts
or chess, or
some other game, or at least conversation, contributes
to make the time
glide away more agreeably. The members
of an Egyptian family in easy
circumstances may pass their
time very pleasantly; but they do so in a
quiet way. The men often
pay evening visits to their friends, at, or after,
supper-time. They
commonly use, on these and similar occasions, a folding
lantern
(“fánoos”), composed of waxed
cloth strained over rings of wire,
and a top and bottom of tinned copper.
This kind of lantern is
here represented, together with the common lamp
(“kandeel”),
and its usual receptacle of wood, which
serves to protect the
flame from the wind. The lamp is a small vessel of
glass, having
a little tube in the bottom, in which is stuck a wick formed
of
cotton twisted round a piece of straw. Some water is poured in
first, and then the oil. A lamp of this kind is often hung over
the
entrance of a house. By night, the interiors of the houses
present a more
dull appearance than in the day: the light of one
or two candles (placed on
the floor or on a stool, and sometimes
surrounded by a large glass shade,
or enclosed in a glass lantern,
on account of the windows being merely of
lattice-work) is generally
thought sufficient for a large and lofty saloon.
Few of the
Egyptians sit up later, in summer, than three or four
o'clock,
which is three or four hours after sunset; for their reckoning
of
time is from sunset at every season of the year: in winter they
often sit up five or six hours.
Thus the day is usually spent by men of moderate wealth who
have no regular
business to attend to, or none that requires their
own active
superintendence. But it is the habit of the
tradesman
to repair, soon after breakfast, to his shop or warehouse, and to
remain there until near sunset.
1 He has leisure to smoke as
much as he likes; and
his customers often smoke with him. To
some of these he offers his own pipe
(unless they have theirs with
them), and a cup of coffee, which is obtained
from the nearest
coffee-shop. A great portion of the day he sometimes
passes in
1 A description of the shops, and a further
account of the tradesmen of Cairo,
will be given in another chapter, on
Industry.

agreeable chat with customers, or
with the tradesmen of the next
or opposite shops. He generally says his
prayers without moving
from the shop. Shortly after the noon-prayers, or
sometimes
earlier or later, he eats a light meal, such as a plate of
kebáb and
a cake of bread (which a boy or maid daily brings from
his house,
or procures in the market), or some bread and cheese or
pickles,
etc., which are carried about the streets for sale; and if a
customer
be present, he is always invited, and often pressed, to partake
of
this meal. A large earthen bottle of water is kept in the shop,
and
replenished, whenever necessary, by a passing “sakka,”
or
water-carrier. In the evening, the tradesman returns to his house,
eats his supper, and, soon after, retires to bed.
It is the general custom in Egypt for the husband and wife
to sleep in the
same bed, excepting among the wealthy classes,
who mostly prefer separate
beds. The bed is usually thus prepared
in the houses of persons of moderate
wealth: a mattress,
stuffed with cotton, about six feet long, and three or
four feet in
width, is placed upon a low frame; a pillow is placed for he
head,
and a sheet spread over this and the mattress: the only covering
in summer is generally a thin blanket: and in winter a thick quilt,
stuffed
with cotton. If there be no frame, the mattress is placed
upon the floor;
or two mattresses are laid one upon the other,
with the sheet, pillow,
etc.; and often, a cushion of the deewán is
placed on each side.
A musquito-curtain
1 is
suspended over the
bed by means of four strings, which are attached to
nails in the
wall. The dress is seldom changed on going to bed; and in
winter, many people sleep with all their ordinary clothes on,
excepting the
gibbeh, or cloth coat; but in summer, they sleep
almost, or entirely,
unclad. In winter, the bed is prepared in a
small closet (called
“khazneh”): in summer, in a large room.
All the
bed-clothes are rolled up, in the day-time, and placed on
one side, or in
the closet above-mentioned. During the hottest
weather, many people sleep
upon the house-top, or in a “fes-hah,”
(or
“fesahah”), which is an uncovered apartment; but
ophthalmia
and other diseases often result from their thus exposing
themselves
to the external air at night. The most common kind of
frame
for the bed is made of palm-sticks; but this harbours bugs,
which are very
abundant in Egypt in the summer, as fleas are
in the winter. These and
other plagues to which the people of
Egypt are exposed by night and day
have been before mentioned.
2
1
“Námooseeyeh.” It is composed of muslin, or
linen of an open texture,
or crape, and forms a close canopy.
2 In the Introduction to this work.

With regard to the most disgusting
of them, the lice, it may here
be added, that, though they are not always
to be avoided even by
the most scrupulous cleanliness, a person who changes
his linen
after two or three days' wear is very seldom annoyed by
these
vermin; and when he is, they are easily removed, not attaching
themselves to the skin; they are generally found in the linen. A
house may
be kept almost clear of fleas by frequent washing and
sweeping; and the
flies may be kept out by placing nets at the
doors and windows; but it is
impossible to purify an Egyptian
house from bugs, if it contain much
wood-work, which is generally
the case.
The male servants lead a very easy life, with the exception of
the
“sáïs,” or groom, who whenever his
master takes a ride, runs
before or beside him; and this he will do in the
hottest weather
for hours together, without appearing fatigued. Almost
every
wealthy person in
Cairo has a
“bowwáb,” or door-keeper, always
at the
door of his house, and several other male servants. Most
of these are
natives of Egypt; but many Nubians are also employed
as servants in
Cairo
and other Egyptian towns. The
latter are mostly bowwábs, and are
generally esteemed more honest
than the Egyptian servants; but I am
inclined to think, from the
opinion of several of my friends, and from my
own experience,
that they have acquired this reputation only by superior
cunning,
The wages of the male servants are very small, usually from
one
to two dollars (or from four to eight shillings) per month: but
they receive many presents.
1 On the “'eed” (or festival) after
Ramadán, the master generally gives, to each of his servants,
part
or the whole of a new suit of clothes, consisting of an
“'eree” (a
blue shirt, which is their outer dress), a
“tarboosh,” and a turban.
Other articles of dress
which they require during the year (excepting,
sometimes, shoes) the
servants are obliged to provide for
themselves. Besides what their master
gives them, they also
receive small presents of money from his visitors,
and from the
tradespeople with whom he deals; particularly whenever he has
1 “The habit of irregular
remuneration, in lieu of fixed, invariable, and
actionable wages, produces a difference of mental
habits, as regards servants
and masters, that I am sure is not to be
understand through description; and
yet every day you see Europeans,
those men who affect such comprehensive
views and such powers of logic,
reviling the habit of giving presents, not perceiving
that this
practices leads to the preservation of those interesting domestic
relations which I conceive to be the greatest lesson, political and moral,
that
is presented to us by the Eastern
world.”—Urquhart's Spirit of the East, vol.
ii.
p. 402.

made any considerable purchase.
They sleep in the clothes
which they wear during the day, each upon a small
mat; and in
winter they cover themselves with a cloak
1 or blanket. In
some
respects, they are often familiar in their manners to their
master,
even laughing and joking with him: in others, they are very
submissive:
paying him the utmost honour, and bearing corporal
chastisement from his hand with child-like patience.
1 See Exodus, xxii. 26, 27.
The male black slave is treated with more consideration than
the free
servant; and leads a life well suited to his lazy disposition.
If
discontented with his situation, he can legally compel
his master to sell
him. Many of the slaves in Egypt wear the
Turkish military dress. They are
generally the greatest fanatics
in the East; and more accustomed than any
other class to insult
the Christians and every people who are not of the
faith which
they have themselves adopted, without knowing more of its
doctrines than Arab children who have been but a week at school.
Of the
female slaves, some account will be given in the next
chapter.
An acquaintance with the modern inhabitants of Egypt leads us
often to
compare their domestic habits with those of Europeans
in the middle ages;
and, perhaps, in this comparison, the points
of resemblance which we
observe, with regard to the men, are
more striking than the contrasts; but
the reverse will be found to
be the case when we consider the state of the
females.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER VI.
DOMESTIC LIFE—continued.
QUITTING the lower apartments, where we have been long detained,
I must
enter upon a more presumptuous office than I have yet
undertaken, which is
that of a guide to the “Hareem:”
2 but
first I must give some account of
marriage, and the marriage-ceremonies.
2 The term “hareem”
(which, as before mentioned, is applied both to the
females of a family
and to the apartments which they occupy) signifies prohibited, sacred, etc. The Turks, and many of the Arabs, use the
synonymous
Arabic term “haram,” which the former
pronounce “harem.”
To abstain from marrying when a man has attained a sufficient

age, and when there is no just
impediment, is esteemed, by the
Egyptians, improper, and even disreputable.
For being myself
guilty of this fault (to use no harsher term), I have
suffered much
inconvenience and discomfort during my stay in this country,
and
endured many reproaches. During my former visit to Egypt, having
occasion to remove from a house which I had occupied for some
months in a
great thoroughfare-street in
Cairo, I engaged another
house, in a
neighbouring quarter: the lease was written, and some
money paid in
advance; but a day or two after, the agent of the
owner came to inform me
that the inhabitants of the quarter, who
were mostly
“shereefs” (or descendants of the Prophet), objected
to my living among them, because I was not married. He added,
however, that
they would gladly admit me if I would even purchase
a female slave, which
would exempt me from the opprobrium
cast upon me by the want of a wife. I
replied, that, being merely
a sojourner in Egypt, I did not like to take
either a wife or female
slave, whom I must soon abandon: the money that I
had paid was,
therefore, returned to me. In another quarter, I was less
unfortunate;
such heavy objections on account of my being unmarried
were not raised: I was only required to promise that no persons
wearing
hats should come into the quarter to visit me; yet, after
I had established
myself in my new residence, the sheykh (or
chief) of the quarter often
endeavoured to persuade me to
marry. All my arguments against doing so he
deemed of no
weight. “You tell me,” said he,
“that in a year or two you mean
to leave this country: now,
there is a young widow, who, I am
told, is handsome, living within a few
doors of you, who will be
glad to become your wife, even with the express
understanding
that you shall divorce her when you quit this place; thought,
of
course, you may do so before, if she should not please
you.”
This young damsel had several times contrived to let me
catch
a glimpse of a pretty face, as I passed the house in which she
and her parents lived. What answer could I return? I replied,
that I had
actually, by accident, seen her face, and that she was
the last woman I
should wish to marry, under such circumstances:
for I was sure that I could
never make up my mind to part with
her. But I found it rather difficult to
silence my officious friend.
—It has been mentioned before, in
the Introduction, that an unmarried
man, or one who has not a female slave,
is usually obliged
to dwell in a wekáleh, unless he has some
near relation with
whom to reside; but that Franks are now exempted from
this restriction.
The Egyptian females arrive at puberty much earlier than the
natives of
colder climates. Many marry at the age of twelve or
thirteen years; and
some remarkably precocious girls are married
at the age of
ten:
1 but such occurrences are not common. Few
remain unmarried after
sixteen years of age. An Egyptian girl at
the age of thirteen, or even
earlier, may be a mother. The women
of Egypt are generally very prolific;
but females of other countries
residing here are often childless; and the
children of foreigners,
born in Egypt, seldom live to a mature age, even
when the mother
is a native. It was on this account that the emancipated
Memlooks
(or military slaves) usually adopted Memlooks.
1 They are often betrothed two or three or more
years earlier.
It is very common among the Arabs of Egypt and of other
countries, but less
so in
Cairo than in other parts of Egypt, for a
man to marry his first
cousin. In this case, the husband and
wife continue to call each other
“cousin;” because the tie of
blood is indissoluble;
but that of matrimony very precarious. A
union of this kind is generally
lasting, on account of this tie of
blood; and because mutual intercourse
may have formed an
attachment between the parties in tender age; though, if
they
be of the higher or middle classes, the young man is seldom
allowed to see the face of his female cousin, or even to meet and
converse
with her, after she has arrived at or near the age of
puberty, until she
has become his wife.
Marriages in
Cairo are generally conducted, in the case of a
virgin, in the
following manner; but in that of a widow, or a
divorced woman, with little
ceremony. Most commonly, the
mother, or some other near female relation, of
the youth or man
who is desirous of obtaining a wife, describes to him the
personal
and other qualifications of the young woman with whom she is
acquainted, and directs his choice:
2 or he employs a
“khát'beh,”
or
“khátibeh;” a woman whose regular business it
is to assist
men in such cases. Sometimes two or more women of this
profession
are employed. A khát'beh gives her report
confidentially,
describing one girl as being like a gazelle, pretty and
elegant and
young; and another, as not pretty, but rich, and so forth. If
the
man have a mother and other near female relations, two or three
of
these usually go with a khát'beh to pay visits to several
hareems,
to which she has access in her professional character of a
matchmaker;
2 Abraham's sending a messenger to his own
country to seek a wife for his
son Isaac (see Genesis xxiv.) was just
such a measure as most modern Arabs
would adopt under similar
circumstances, if easily practicable.

for she is employed as much by the
women as by the
men. She sometimes also exercises the trade of a
“delláleh” (or
broker) for the sale of
ornaments, clothing, etc., which procures
her admission into almost every
hareem. The women who accompany
her in search of a wife for their relation
are introduced
to the different hareems merely as ordinary visitors; and as
such,
if disappointed, they soon take their leave, though the object
of
their visit is of course understood by the other party: but if they
find among the females of a family (and they are sure to see all
who are
marriageable) a girl or young woman having the necessary
personal
qualifications, they state the motive of their visit, and
ask, if the
proposed match be not at once disapproved of, what
property, ornaments,
etc., the object of their wishes may possess.
If the father of the intended
bride be dead, she may perhaps
possess one or more houses, shops, etc.; and
in almost every
case, a marriageable girl of the middle or higher ranks has
a set
or ornaments of gold and jewels. The women-visitors, having
asked these and other questions, bring their report to the expectant
youth
or man. If satisfied with their report, he gives a present
to the
khát'beh, and sends her again to the family of his
intended
wife, to make known to them his wishes. She generally
gives an exaggerated
description of his personal attractions, wealth,
etc. For instance, she
will say, of a very ordinary young man, of
scarcely any property, and of
whose disposition she knows nothing,
“My daughter, the youth who
wishes to marry you is young,
graceful, elegant, beardless, has plenty of
money, dresses handsomely,
is fond of delicacies, but cannot enjoy his
luxuries alone;
he wants you as his companion; he will give you everything
that
money can procure; he is a stayer-at-home, and will spend his
whole time with you, caressing and fondling you.”
The parents may betroth their daughter to whom they please,
and marry her to
him without her consent, if she be not arrived
at the age of puberty; but
after she has attained that age, she
may choose a husband for herself, and
appoint any man to arrange
and effect her marriage. In the former case,
however, the khát'beh
and the relations of a girl sought in
marriage usually endeavour to
obtain her consent to the proposed union.
Very often, a father
objects to giving a daughter in marriage to a man who
is not of
the same profession or trade as himself; and to marrying a
younger
daughter before an elder.
1 The bridegroom can scarcely ever

obtain even a surreptitious glance
at the features of his bride,
until he finds her in his absolute
possession, unless she belong to
the lower classes of society; in which
case, it is easy enough for
him to see her face.
When a female is about to marry, she should have a
“wekeel”
(or deputy) to settle the compact, and
conclude the contract, for
her, with her proposed husband. If she be under
the age of
puberty, this is absolutely necessary; and in this case, her
father,
if living, or (if he be dead) her nearest adult male relation, or
a
guardian appointed by will, or by the Kádee, performs the
office
of wekeel: but if she be of age, she appoints her own wekeel,
or
may even make the contract herself; though this is seldom done.
After a youth or man has made choice of a female to demand
in marriage, on
the report of his female relations, or that of the
khát'beh,
and, by proxy, made the preliminary arrangements before
described with her
and her relations in the hareem, he repairs
with two or three of his
friends to her wekeel. Having obtained
the wekeel's consent to the union,
if the intended bride be under
age, he asks what is the amount of the
required “mahr” (or
dowry).
The giving of a dowry is indispensable, as I have mentioned in
a former
chapter. It is generally calculated in
“riyáls,” of ninety
faddahs (now
equivalent to five pence and two-fifths) each. The
riyál is an
imaginary money, not a coin. The usual amount of
the dowry, if the parties
be in possession of a moderately good
income, is about a thousand
riyáls (or twenty-two pounds ten
shillings); or, sometimes, not
more than half that sum. The
wealthy calculate the dowry in purses, of five
hundred piasters
(now, five pounds sterling) each; and fix its amount at
ten purses,
or more. It must be borne in mind that we are considering
the
case of a virgin-bride; the dowry of a widow or a divorced woman
is much less. In settling the amount of the dowry, as in other
pecuniary
transactions, a little haggling frequently takes place: if
a thousand
riyáls be demanded through the wekeel, the party of
the intended
bridegroom will probably make an offer of six hundred:
the former party
then gradually lowering the demand, and
the other increasing the offer,
they at length agree to fix it at eight
hundred. It is generally stipulated
that two-thirds of the dowry
shall be paid immediately before the marriage
contract is made;
and the remaining third held in reserve, to be paid to
the wife in
case of divorcing her against her own consent, or in case of
the
husband's death.

This affair being settled, and confirmed by all persons present
reciting the
opening chapter of the Kur-án (the Fát'hah), an early
day (perhaps the day next following) is appointed for paying the
money, and
performing the ceremony of the marriage-contract,
which is properly called
“'akd ennikáh.”
1 The making this contract
is commonly
called “ketb el-kitáb” (or the writing of
the
writ); but it is very seldom the case that any document is written
to confirm the marriage, unless the bridegroom is about to travel to
another place, and fears that he may have occasion to prove his
marriage
where witnesses of the contract cannot be procured.
Sometimes the
marriage-contract is concluded immediately after
the arrangement respecting
the dowry, but more generally a day or
two after. On the day appointed for
this ceremony, the bridegroom,
again accompanied by two or three of his
friends, goes to the house
of the bride, usually about noon, taking with
him that portion of the
dowry which he has promised to pay on this
occasion. He and
his companions are received by the bride's wekeel; and two
or
more friends of the latter are usually present. It is necessary
that there be two witnesses (and those must be Muslims) to the
marriage-contract, unless in a situation where witnesses cannot be
procured. All persons present recite the Fát'hah; and the
bridegroom
then pays the money. After this, the marriage-contract is
performed. It is very simple. The bridegroom and the bride's
wekeel sit
upon the ground, face to face, with one knee upon the
ground, and grasp
each other's right hand, raising the thumbs,
and pressing them against each
other. A fikee
2 is
generally employed to instruct them what they are to say. Having placed a
handkerchief over their joined hands, he usually prefaces the
words of the
contract with a “khutbeh,” consisting of a few
words
of exhortation and prayer, with quotations from the Kur-án
and
Traditions, on the excellency and advantages of marriage.
He then desires
the bride's wekeel to say, “I betroth [or marry],
to thee, my
daughter [or the female who has appointed me her
wekeel], such a one
[naming the bride], the virgin
3 [or the adult
virgin], for a dowry of such an
amount.” (The words “for a

dowry,” etc., are
sometimes omitted.) The bride's wekeel having
said this, the bridegroom,
prompted in the same manner by the
fikee, says, “I accept from
thee her betrothal [or marriage] to
myself, and take her under my care, and
bind myself to afford
her my protection; and ye who are present bear
witness of this.”
The wekeel addresses the bridegroom in the
same manner a
second and a third time; and each time, the latter replies
as
before. They then generally add, “And blessing be on the
Apostles,
and praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures:
amen:”
after which, all present again repeat the
Fát'hah. It is not always
the same form of
“khutbeh” that is recited on these occasions:
any
form may be used; and it may be repeated by any person:
it is not even
necessary; and is often altogether omitted. The
contract concluded, the
bridegroom sometimes (but seldom unless
he be a person of the lower orders)
kisses the hands of his friends
and others there present; and they are
presented with sherbet,
and generally remain to dinner. Each of them
receives an embroidered
handkerchief, provided by the family of the
bride;
excepting the fikee, who receives a similar handkerchief, with
a
small gold coin tied up in it, from the bridegroom. Before the
persons assembled on this occasion disperse, they settle when the
“leylet ed-dukhleh” is to be: this is the night when the
bride is
brought to the house of the bridegroom, and the latter, for
the
first time, visits her.
1 It is a common belief in Egypt, that, if any
one makes a marriage-contract
in the month of Moharram, the marriage
will be unhappy, and soon dissolved:
wherefore, few persons do so. The
most propitious period is the month of
Showwál.
2 This appellation is commonly given to a
schoolmaster. See a note in page
48?
3 If the bride be not a virgin, a word importing
this is substituted; namely,
“seyyib,” or, more
properly, “theyyib.”
In general, the bridegroom waits for his bride about eight or
ten days after
the conclusion of the contract. Meanwhile, he
sends to her, two or three or
more times, some fruit, sweetmeats,
etc.; and perhaps makes her a present
of a shawl, or some other
article of value. The bride's family are at the
same time occupied
in preparing for her a stock of household furniture (as
deewáns,
matting, carpets, bedding, kitchen-utensils, etc.) and
dress. The
portion of the dowry which has been paid by the bridegroom,
and generally a much larger sum (the additional money, which is
often more
than the dowry itself, being supplied by the bride's
family), is expended
in purchasing the articles of furniture, dress,
and ornaments, for the
bride. These articles, which are called
“gaház,” are the property of the bride; and if
she be divorced,
she takes them away with her. She cannot, therefore, with
truth,
be said to be
purchased.
1 The furniture is sent,
commonly borne
1 Among the peasants, however, the father, or
other lawful guardian of the
bride, receives the dowry, and gives
nothing in return but the girl, and sometimes
a little corn, etc. The
bridegroom, in this case, supplies everything;
even the dress of the
bride.

by a train of camels, to the
bridegroom's house. Often, among
the articles of the gaház is a
chair for the turban or head-dress,
alluded to in a former page. It is of a
large size, but slight make;
the bottom and back generally of cane-work;
sometimes with a
canopy. It is never used to sit upon. The turban, when
placed
upon it, is covered with a kerchief of thick silk stuff,
usually
ornamented with gold thread. There are sometimes sent two of
these chairs; one for the husband and the other for the wife.
The bridegroom should receive his bride on the eve of Friday,
or that of
Monday;
1 but the
former is generally esteemed the
more fortunate period. Let us say, for
instance, that the bride is
to be conducted to him on the eve of Friday.
During two or
three or more preceding nights, the street or quarter in
which the
bridegroom lives is illuminated with chandeliers and lanterns,
or
with lanterns and small lamps, some suspended from cords drawn
across from the bridegroom's and several other houses on each
side to the
houses opposite; and several small silk flags, each of
two colours,
generally red and green, are attached to these or
other cords.
2 An entertainment is
also given on each of these
nights, particularly on the
last night before that on which the
wedding is concluded, at the
bridegroom's house. On these
occasions, it is customary for the persons
invited, and for all intimate
friends, to send presents to his house, a day
or two before
the feast which they purpose or expect to attend; they
generally
send sugar, coffee, rice, wax-candles, or a lamb: the former
articles
are usually placed upon a tray of copper or wood, and covered
with a silk or embroidered kerchief. The guests are entertained
1 These entertainments I do not here
particularly describe, as it is my intention
to devote the whole of a
subsequent chapter to the subject of private
festivities. The
“khatmeh” is the recitation of the whole of the
Kur-án;
and the “zikr,” the repetition
of the name of God, or of the profession of his
unity, etc.; I shall
have occasion to speak of both more fully in another
chapter, on the
periodical public festivals.

on these occasions by musicians and
male or female singers, by
dancing girls, or by the performance of a
“khatmeh” or a
“zikr.”
1
1 Burckhardt has erred in stating that Monday and Thursday are the days on
which the
ceremonies immediately previous to the marriage-night
are performed,
he should have said Sunday and
Thursday. He has also fallen into some other
errors in the account
which he has given of the marriage ceremonies of the
Egyptians, in the
illustrations of his “Arabic Proverbs” (pp.
112–118). To
mention this I feel to be a duty to myself; but
one which I perform with
reluctance, and not without the fear that
Burckhardt's just reputation for
general accuracy may make my reader
think that he is right in these cases,
and that I am wrong. I write
these words in Cairo, with his book before
me, and after sufficient
experience and inquiries.
2 The lantern here represented, which is
constructed of wood, and painted
green, red, white, and blue, is called
“tureiya” (the Arabic name of the
Pleiades), and,
together with the frame above, from which six lamps are suspended, and which
is termed “khátim Suleymán” (or
Solomon's seal), composes
what is called a “heml
kanádeel.”
In the houses of the wealthy, the khát'beh or khat'behs, together
with the “dáyeh” (or midwife) of the family,
the “belláneh
(or female attendant of the bath), and
the nurse of the
bride, are each presented, a day or two after the
conclusion of
the contract, with a piece of gold stuff, a Kashmeer shawl,
or a
piece of striped silk, such as yeleks and shintiyáns are
made of;

LANTERN, ETC., SUSPENDED ON THE OCCASION OF A WEDDING.
and, placing these over the left shoulder, and attaching the
edges
together on the right side, go upon asses, with two or more men
before them beating kettle drums or tabours, to the houses of all
the
friends of the bride, to invite the females to accompany her

to and from the bath, and to
partake of an entertainment given on
that occasion. At every house where
they call, they are treated
with a repast, having sent notice the day
before of their intended
visit. They are called
“mudnát.”
1 I have sometimes seen them
walking,
and without the drums before them; but making up for
the want of these
instruments by shrill, quavering cries of joy
called
“zagháreet.”
2
1 “From the verb ‘adna,'
he brought,” etc.
2 These cries of the women, which are heard on
various occasions of rejoicing
in Egypt and other Eastern countries,
are produced by a sharp utterance
of the voice, accompanied by a quick,
tremulous motion of the tongue.
On the preceding Wednesday (or on the Saturday if the wedding
be to conclude
on the eve of Monday), at about the hour of
noon, or a little later, the
bride goes in state to the bath.
3 The
procession to the bath is called
“Zeffet
el-Hammám.” It is
headed by a
party of musicians with a hautboy, or two, and drums
of different
kinds.
4
Frequently, as I have mentioned in a former
chapter, some person avails
himself of this opportunity to parade
his young son previously to
circumcision; the child, and his
attendants, in this case, follow next
after the musicians, in the
manner already described. Sometimes, at the
head of the bride's
party are two men who carry the utensils and linen used
in the
bath, upon two round trays, each of which is covered with an
embroidered or a plain silk kerchief; also a sakka, who gives
water to any
of the passengers, if asked; and two other persons,
one of whom bears a
“kumkum,” or bottle of plain or gilt silver,
or of
china, containing rose-water, or orange-flower-water, which
he occasionally
sprinkles on the passengers; and the other, a
“mibkhar'ah” (or perfuming-vessel) of silver, with
aloes-wood, or
some other odoriferous substance, burning in it: but it is
seldom
that the procession is thus attended. In general, the first
persons
among the bride's party are several of her married female
relations and friends, walking in pairs; and next, a number of
young
virgins. The former are dressed in the usual manner,
covered with the black
silk habarah: the latter have white silk
habarahs, or shawls. Then follows
the bride, walking under a
canopy of silk, of some gay colour, as pink,
rose-colour, or yellow,
or of two colours composing wide stripes, often
rose-colour and
yellow. It is carried by four men, by means of a pole at
each
3 I have once seen this
“zeffeh,” or procession, and a second which will
be
described hereafter, go forth much later, and return an hour after
sunset.
4 The music is generally of a very rude kind;
and the airs usually played are
those of popular songs; specimens of
which will be found in this work.

BRIDAL PROCESSION (Part I.).


corner, and is open only in front;
and at the top of each of the
four poles is attached an embroidered
handkerchief. The dress
of the bride, during this procession, entirely
conceals her person.
She is generally covered, from head to foot, with a
red Kashmeer
shawl; or with a white or yellow shawl, though rarely. Upon
her
head is placed a small pasteboard cap, or crown. The shawl is
placed over this, and conceals from the view of the public the
richer
articles of her dress, her face, and her jewels, etc., excepting
one or two
“kussahs”
1 (and sometimes other ornaments), generally
of
diamonds and emeralds, attached to that part of the shawl
which covers her
forehead. She is accompanied by two or three
of her female relations within
the canopy; and often, when in hot
weather, a woman, walking backwards
before her, is constantly
employed in fanning her, with a large fan of
black ostrich-feathers,
the lower part of the front of which is usually
ornamented with
a piece of looking-glass. Sometimes one zeffeh, with a
single
canopy, serves for two brides, who walk side by side. The
procession
moves very slowly, and generally pursues a circuitous
route, for the sake of greater display. On leaving the house, it
turns to
the right. It is closed by a second party of musicians,
similar to the
first, or by two or three drummers.
1 For a description of these ornaments, see the
Appendix.
In the bridal processions of the lower orders, which are often
conducted in
the same manner as that above described, the
women of the party frequently
utter, at intervals, those shrill cries
of joy called zagháreet,
which I have before had occasion to mention;
and females of the poorer
classes, when merely spectators
of a zeffeh, often do the same.
The whole bath is sometimes hired for the bride and her party
exclusively.
They pass several hours, or seldom less than two,
occupied in washing,
sporting, and feasting; and frequently
“'A‘l'mehs” (or female singers) are hired to
amuse them in the
bath: they then return in the same order in which they
came.
The expense of the zeffeh falls on the relations of the bride;
but
the feast is supplied by the bridegroom.
Having returned from the bath to the house of her family, the
bride and her
companions sup together. If ‘A‘l'mehs have
contributed
to the festivity in the bath, they also return with the
bride, to renew their concert. Their songs are always on the
subject of
love, and of the joyous event which occasions their
presence. After the
company have been thus entertained, a large
quantity of henna having been
prepared, mixed into a paste, the

bride takes a lump of it in her
hand, and receives contributions
(called “nukoot”)
from her guests: each of them sticks a coin
(usually of gold) in the henna
which she holds upon her hand;
and when the lump is closely stuck with
these coins, she scrapes
it off her hand upon the edge of a basin of water.
Having
collected in this manner from all her guests, some more henna
is
applied to her hands and feet, which are then bound with pieces
of
linen; and in this state they remain until the next morning,
when they are
found to be sufficiently dyed with its deep orange-red
tint. Her guests
make use of the remainder of the dye for
their own hands. This night is
called “Leylet el-Henna,” or
“the Night of
the Henna.”
It is on this night, and sometimes also during the latter half of
the
preceding day, that the bridegroom gives his chief entertainment.
“Mohabbazeen” (or low farce-players) often perform on
this occasion before the house, or, if it be large enough, in the
court.
The other and more common performances by which the
guests are amused have
been before mentioned.
On the following day the bride goes in procession to the house
of the
bridegroom. The procession before described is called
“the
zeffeh of the bath,” to distinguish it from this, which is the
more important, and which is therefore particularly called
“Zeffet
el-‘Arooseh,” or “the
Zeffeh of the Bride.” In some cases, to
diminish the expenses of
the marriage-ceremonies, the bride is
conducted privately to the bath, and
only honoured with a zeffeh
to the bridegroom's house. This procession is
exactly similar to
the former. The bride and her party, after breakfasting
together,
generally set out a little after mid-day. They proceed in
the
same order, and at the same slow pace, as in the zeffeh of the
bath; and, if the house of the bridegroom be near, they follow a
circuitous
route, through several principal streets, for the sake of
display. The
ceremony usually occupies three or more hours.
Sometimes, before bridal processions of this kind, two swordsmen,
clad in
nothing but their drawers, engage each other in a
mock combat; or two
peasants cudgel each other with nebboots,
or long staves. In the procession
of a bride of a wealthy family,
any person who has the art of performing
some extraordinary feat
to amuse the spectators is almost sure of being a
welcome assistant,
and of receiving a handsome present.
1 When the seyyid
1 One of the most common of the feats witnessed
on such an occasion is the
performance of a laborious task by a
water-carrier, termed a “keiyim,” who,
for the
sake of a present, and this empty title, carries a water-skin filled
with
sand and water, of greater weight, and for a longer period, than
any of his
brethren will venture to do; and this he must accomplish
without ever sitting
down, except in a crouching position, to rest. In
the case of a bridal procession
which I lately witnessed, the keiyim
began to carry his burden, a skin of
sand and water weighing about two
hundred pounds, at sunset of the preceding
day; bore it the whole
night, and the ensuing day, before and during the
procession, and
continued to do so till sunset.

BRIDAL PROCESSION (Part II.).


‘Omar, the Nakeeb
el-Ashráf (or chief of the descendants of the
Prophet), who was
the main instrument of advancing Mohammad
‘Alee to the dignity
of Básha of Egypt, married a daughter, about
twenty-seven years
since, there walked before the procession a
young man who had made an
incision in his abdomen, and drawn
out a large portion of his intestines,
which he carried before him
on a silver tray. After the procession he
restored them to their
proper place, and remained in bed many days before
he recovered
from the effects of this foolish and disgusting act. Another
man,
on the same occasion, ran a sword through his arm, before the
crowding spectators, and then bound over the wound, without
withdrawing the
sword, several handkerchiefs, which were soaked
with the blood. These facts
were described to me by an eyewitness.
A spectacle of a more singular and
more disgusting
nature used to be not uncommon on similar occasions, but is
now
very seldom witnessed.
1 Sometimes, also,
“háwees” (or conjurors
and sleight-of-hand
performers) exhibit a variety of tricks on
these occasions. But the most
common of all the performances
here mentioned are the mock fights. Similar
exhibitions are also
sometimes witnessed on the occasion of a
circumcision.
2
1 A correct description of this is given in
Burckhardt's “Arabic Proverbs,”
pp. 115, 116.
2 Grand zeffehs are sometimes accompanied by a
number of cars, each
bearing a group of persons of some manufacture or
trade performing the usual
work of their craft; even such as builders,
white-washers, etc.; including
members of all, or almost all, the arts
and manufactures practised in the
metropolis.
The bride and her party, having arrived at the bridegroom's
house, sit down
to a repast. Her friends, shortly after, take their
departure, leaving with
her only her mother and sister, or other
near female relations, and one or
two other women, usually the
belláneh. The ensuing night is
called “Leylet ed-Dukhleh,” or
“the Night
of the Entrance.”
The bridegroom sits below. Before sunset, he goes to the bath,
and there
changes his clothes; or he merely does the latter at
home, and, after
having supped with a party of his friends, waits
till a little before the
“'eshë” (or time of the night-prayer), or

until the third or fourth hour of
the night, when, according to
general custom, he should repair to some
celebrated mosque, such
as that of the Hasaneyn, and there say his prayers.
If young, he
is generally honoured with a zeffeh on this occasion: he goes
to
the mosque preceded by musicians with drums and one or more
hautboys, and accompanied by a number of friends, and by several
men
bearing “mesh'als.” The mesh'al is a staff with a
cylindrical
frame of iron at the top filled with flaming wood, or having
two,
three, four, or five of these receptacles for fire. The party usually

MESH'ALS.
proceeds to the mosque with a quick pace, and without much
order.
A second group of musicians, with the same instruments,
or with drums only,
closes the procession. The bridegroom is
generally dressed in a
kuftán with red stripes, and a red gibbeh,
with a Kashmeer shawl
of the same colour for his turban; and
walks between two friends similarly
dressed. The prayers are
commonly performed merely as a matter of ceremony;
and it is
frequently the case that the bridegroom does not pray at all,
or
prays without having previously performed the wudoó, like
memlooks

who say their prayers only because
they fear their master.
1
The procession returns from the mosque with more order and
display,
and very slowly; perhaps because it would be considered
unbecoming in the
bridegroom to hasten home to take possession
of his bride. It is headed, as
before, by musicians, and two or
more bearers of mesh'als. These are
generally followed by two
men, bearing, by means of a pole resting
horizontally upon their
shoulders, a hanging frame, to which are attached
about sixty or
more small lamps, in four circles, one above another, the
uppermost
of which circles is made to revolve, being turned round
occasionally by one of the two bearers. These numerous lamps,
and several
mesh'als beside those before mentioned, brilliantly
illumine the streets
through which the procession passes, and
produce a remarkably picturesque
effect. The bridegroom and
his friends and other attendants follow,
advancing in the form of
an oblong ring, all facing the interior of the
ring, and each bearing
in his hand one or more wax candles, and sometimes a
sprig
of henna or some other flower, excepting the bridegroom and the
friend on either side of him. These three form the latter part of
the ring,
which generally consists of twenty or more persons. At
frequent intervals
the party stops for a few minutes; and during
each of these pauses, a boy
or man, one of the persons who compose
the ring, sings a few words of an
epithalamium. The sounds
of the drums, and the shrill notes of the hautboy
(which the bride
hears half an hour or more before the procession arrives
at the
house), cease during these songs. The train is closed, as in
the
former case, by a second group of musicians.
1 Hence this kind of prayer is called
“salah memáleekeeyeh,” or
“the
prayer of memlooks.”
In the manner above described, the bridegroom's zeffeh is most
commonly
conducted; but there is another mode, that is more
respectable, called
“zeffeh sádátee,” which signifies
“the gentlemen's
zeffeh.” In this, the bridegroom is
accompanied by his
friends in the same manner as before related, and
attended and
preceded by men bearing mesh'als, but not by musicians: in
the
place of these are about six or eight men, who, from their being
employed as singers on occasions of this kind, are called
“wilád
el-läyálee,”
or “sons of the nights.” Thus attended, he goes to
the mosque; and while he returns slowly thence to his house, the
singers
above mentioned chant, or rather sing, “muweshshahs”
(or lyric odes) in praise of the Prophet. Having returned to the
house,
these same persons chant portions of the Kur-án, one after

another, for the amusement of the
guests; then, all together, recite
the opening chapter (the
Fát'hah); after which one of them sings
a
“kaseedeh” (or short poem) in praise of the Prophet:
lastly,
all of them again sing muweshshahs. After having thus
performed,
they receive “nukoot” (or contributions of
money) from
the bridegroom and his friends.
Soon after his return from the mosque, the bridegroom leaves
his friends in
a lower apartment, enjoying their pipes and coffee
and sherbet. The bride's
mother and sister, or whatever other
female relations were left with her,
are above; and the bride herself,
and the belláneh, in a
separate apartment.
1
If the bridegroom
be a youth or young man, it is considered proper that
he,
as well as the bride, should exhibit some degree of bashfulness:
one of his friends, therefore, carries him a part of the way up to
the
hareem. On entering the bride's apartment, he gives a present
to the
belláneh, and she retires. The bride has a shawl
thrown over her
head; and the bridegroom must give her a present
of money, which is called
“the price of the uncovering of the
face,” before he
attempts to remove this, which she does not allow
him to do without some
apparent reluctance, if not violent resistance,
in order to show her maiden
modesty. On removing the
covering, he says, “In the name of God,
the Compassionate, the
Merciful;” and then greets her with this
compliment: “The
night be blessed,” or
“—is blessed:” to which she replies, if
timidity do not choke her utterance, “God bless thee.”
The
bridegroom now sees the face of his bride for the first time, and
generally finds her nearly what he has been led to expect. He
remains with
her but a few minutes longer:
2 having satisfied his
curiosity respecting her personal charms,
he calls to the women
(who generally collect at the door, where they wait
in anxious
suspense) to raise their cries of joy, or zagháreet:
and the shrill
sounds acquaint the persons below and in the neighbourhood,
and
often, responded by other women, spread still further the news,
that he has acknowledged himself satisfied with his bride: he
soon
afterwards descends to rejoin his friends, and remains with
them an hour,
or more, before he returns to his wife. It very
1 Sometimes, when the parties are persons of
wealth, the bride is displayed
before the bridegroom in different
dresses, to the number of seven.
2 I beg to refer the reader, if he desire
further details on this subject, to
page 117 of Burckhardt's
“Arabic Proverbs.” His account might have been
more complete; but he seems to have studied to be particularly concise in
this
case.

seldom happens that the husband, if
disappointed in his bride,
immediately disgraces and divorces her; in
general, he retains
her, in this case, a week or more.
Having now described the most usual manner in which the
marriages of
virgin-brides are conducted in
Cairo, I may add a
few words on some of the
ceremonies observed in other cases of
matrimony, both of virgins and of
widows or divorced women.
The daughters of the great, generally having baths in their own
houses,
seldom go to the public bath previously to marriage. A
bride of a wealthy
family, and her female relations and friends, if
there be not a bath in her
house, go to the public bath, which is
hired for them exclusively, and to
the bridegroom's house, without
music or canopy, mounted on asses: the
bride herself generally
wearing a Kashmeer shawl, in the manner of a
habarah.
If the bridegroom or the bride's family have eunuchs, these ride
before the
bride; and sometimes a man runs at the head of the
procession, crying,
“Bless ye the Prophet!” This man, on
entering the
house, throws down upon the threshold some leaves
of the white beet
(“salk”), over which the ladies ride. The
object of
this act is to propitiate fortune. The same man then
exclaims,
“Assistance from God, and a speedy victory!”
1
1 Kur-án, chap. lxi., ver. 13.
Marriages, among the Egyptians, are sometimes conducted
without any pomp or
ceremony, even in the case of virgins, by
mutual consent of the bridegroom
and the bride's family, or the
bride herself; and widows and divorced women
are never honoured
with a zeffeh on marrying again. The mere sentence,
“I
give myself up to thee,” uttered by a female to a
man who
proposes to become her husband (even without the presence of
witnesses, if none can easily be procured), renders her his legal
wife, if
arrived at puberty; and marriages with widows and
divorced women, among the
Muslims of Egypt, and other Arabs,
are sometimes concluded in this simple
manner. The dowry of
such women is generally one quarter or third or half
the amount
of that of a virgin.
In
Cairo, among persons not of the lowest order, though in
very humble life,
the marriage ceremonies are conducted in the
same manner as among the
middle orders. But when the expenses
of such zeffehs as I have described
cannot by any means
be paid, the bride is paraded in a very simple manner,
covered
with a shawl (generally red), and surrounded by a group of her

female relations and friends,
dressed in their best, or in borrowed,
clothes, and enlivened by no other
sounds of joy than their
zagháreet, which they repeat at
frequent intervals.
The general mode of zeffeh among the inhabitants of the
villages is
different from those above described. The bride,
usually covered with a
shawl, is seated on a camel, and so conveyed
to the bridegroom's dwelling.
Sometimes four or five
women or girls sit with her on the same camel, one
on either
side of her, and two or three others behind: the seat being
made
very wide, and usually covered with carpets or other drapery.
She
is followed by a group of women singing. In the evening
of the wedding, and
often during several previous evenings, in a
village, the male and female
friends of the two parties meet at
the bridegroom's house, and pass several
hours of the night in
the open air, amusing themselves with songs and a
rude kind
of dance, accompanied by the sounds of a tambourine or some
kind of drum: both sexes sing; but only the women dance.—I
have
introduced here these few words on the marriage-ceremonies
of the peasantry
to avoid scattering notes on subjects of the same
nature. I now revert to
the customs of the people of
Cairo.
On the morning after the marriage, “khäwals”
1 or
“gházeeyehs”
(dancing men or girls)
perform in the street before the
bridegroom's house, or in the court.
2 On the same morning
also,
if the bridegroom be a young man, the person who carried him
upstairs generally takes him and several friends to an entertainment
in the
country, where they spend the whole day. This
ceremony is called
“el-huroobeh,” or the flight. Sometimes the
bridegroom himself makes the arrangements for it, and pays part
of the
expenses, if they exceed the amount of the contributions
of his friends;
for they give nukoot on this occasion. Musicians
and dancing girls are
often hired to attend the entertainment. If
the bridegroom be a person of
the lower orders, he is conducted
back in procession, preceded by three or
four musicians with
drums and hautboy; his friends and other attendants
carrying
each a nosegay, as in the zeffeh of the preceding night; and
if
their return be after sunset, they are accompanied by men bearing
mesh'als, lamps, etc.; and the friends of the bridegroom
carry lighted wax
candles, besides the nosegays.
3 Subsequent
1 A khäwal is also called
“gháïsh”; plural,
“gheeyásh.”
2 This performance is called the bride's
“sabáheeyeh.”
3 Among the peasants of Upper Egypt, the
relations and acquaintances of
the bridegroom and bride meet together
on the day after the marriage; and
while a number of the men clap their
hands, as an accompaniment to a tambourine
or two, and any other
instruments that can be procured, the bride
dances before them for a
short time. She has a head-veil reaching to her
heels, and a printed
cotton handkerchief completely covering her face, and
wears,
externally, the most remarkable of her bridal garments (mentioned by
Burckhardt, in the place before referred to, and, in some parts of Egypt,
hung
over the door of a peasant's house after marriage). Other women,
similarly
veiled, and dressed in their best, or borrowed, clothes,
continue the dance
about two hours, or more.

festivities occasioned by marriage
will be described in a later
chapter.
The husband, if he can conveniently so arrange, generally
prefers that his
mother should reside with him and his wife; that she
may protect his wife's
honour, and consequently his own also. It
is said that the mother-in-law
is, for this reason, called “hamah.”
1
The women of Egypt are said to be generally prone to criminal
intrigues; and I fear that, in this respect, they are not unjustly
accused.
Sometimes a husband keeps his wife in the house of
her mother, and pays the
daily expenses of both. This ought
to make the mother very careful with
regard to expenditure, and
strict as to her daughter's conduct, lest the
latter should be
divorced; but it is said that, in this case, she often
acts as her
daughter's procuress, and teaches her innumerable tricks, by
which
to gain the upper hand over her husband, and to drain his purse.
The influence of the wife's mother is also scarcely less feared
when she
only enjoys occasional opportunities of seeing her
daughter: hence it is
held more prudent for a man to marry a
female who has neither mother nor
any near relations of her own
sex; and some wives are even prohibited
receiving any female
friends but those who are relations of the husband:
they are very
few, however, upon whom such severe restrictions are imposed.
1 Thus commonly pronounced, for
“hamáh,” a word derived from the
verb
“hama,” “he protected, or
guarded.”
For a person who has become familiar with male Muslim
society in
Cairo,
without marrying, it is not so difficult as might
be imagined by a stranger
to obtain, directly and indirectly,
correct and ample information
respecting the condition and habits
of the women. Many husbands of the
middle classes, and some
of the higher orders, freely talk of the affairs
of the hareem with
one who professes to agree with them in their general
moral
sentiments, if they have not to converse through the medium of
an interpreter.
Though the women have a particular portion of the house

allotted to them, the
wives, in general, are not to be regarded as
prisoners; for they are usually at liberty to go out and pay visits,
as
well as to receive female visitors, almost as often as they
please. The
slaves, indeed, being subservient to the wives, as
well as to their master,
or, if subject to the master only, being
under an authority almost
unlimited, have not that liberty. One
of the chief objects of the master in
appropriating a distinct
suite of apartments to his women, is to prevent
their being seen
by the male domestics and other men without being covered
in
the manner prescribed by their religion. The following words
of the
Kur-án show the necessity under which a Muslim'eh is
placed of
concealing whatever is attractive in her person or attire
from all men,
excepting certain relations and some other persons.
“And speak
unto the believing women, that they restrain their
eyes, and preserve their
modesty, and discover not their ornaments,
except what [necessarily]
appeareth thereof: and let them
throw their veils over their bosoms, and
not show their ornaments,
unless to their husbands, or their fathers, or
their husbands'
fathers, or their sons, or their husbands' sons, or their
brothers,
or their brothers' sons, or their sister's sons, or their women,
or
those [captives] which their right hands shall possess, or unto
such men as attend [them] and have no need [of women], or
unto
children:” “and let them not make a noise with their
feet,
that their ornaments which they hid may [thereby] be
discovered.”
1
The last passage alludes to the practice of knocking
together the
anklets which the Arab women in the time of the
Prophet used to wear, and
which are still worn by many women
in Egypt.
I must here transcribe two notes of eminent commentators on
the
Kur-án, in illustration of the above extract, and inserted in
Sale's translation. This I do, because they would convey an
erroneous idea
of modern customs with regard to the admission,
or non-admission, of
certain persons into the hareem. The first
is on the above words,
“or their women,” which it thus explains:—
“That is, such as are of the Mohammadan religion: it being
reckoned by some unlawful, or, at least, indecent, for a woman
who is a
true believer to uncover herself before one who is an
infidel; because the
latter will hardly refrain from describing her
to the men: but others
suppose all women in general are here
accepted; for, in this particular,
doctors differ.” In Egypt, and,
I believe, in every other Muslim
country, it is not now considered

improper for any woman, whether
independent, or a servant, or a
slave, a Christian, a Jewess, a Muslim'eh,
or a pagan, to enter
a Muslim's hareem.—The second of the notes
above alluded to
is on the words “or those captives,”
and is as follows:—“Slaves
of either sex are included
in this exception, and, as some think,
domestic servants who are not
slaves, as those of a different
nation. It is related that Mohammad once
made a present of a
man-slave to his daughter Fátimeh; and when
he brought him
to her, she had on a garment which was so scanty, that she
was
obliged to leave either her head or her feet uncovered: and that
the Prophet, seeing her in great confusion on that account, told
her she
need be under no concern, for that there was none
present but her father
and her slave.” Among the Arabs of the
Desert, this may still be
the case; but in Egypt I have never
heard of an instance of an adult male
slave being allowed to see
the hareem of a respectable man, whether he
belonged to that
hareem or not, and am assured that it is never permitted.
Perhaps
the reason why the man-slave of a woman is allowed this
privilege by the Kur-án is, because she cannot become his lawful
wife as long as he continues her slave: but this is a poor reason
for
granting him access to the hareem, in such a state of society.
It is
remarkable that, in the verse of the Kur-án above quoted,
uncles
are not mentioned as privileged to see their nieces unveiled:
some think
that they are not admissible, and for this
reason, lest they should
describe the persons of their nieces to
their sons; for it is regarded as
highly improper for a man to
describe the features or person of a female
(as to say, that she
has large eyes, a straight nose, small mouth, etc.) to
one of his
own sex, by whom it is unlawful for her to be seen, though it
is
not considered indecorous to describe her in general terms, as,
for
instance, to say, “She is a sweet girl, and set off with kohl
and henna.”
It may be mentioned here, as a general rule, that a man is
allowed to see
unveiled only his own wives and female slaves,
and those females whom he is
prohibited by law from marrying,
on account of their being within certain
degrees of consanguinity
or family connexion, or having given him suck, or
being nearly
related to his foster-mother.
1 The high antiquity of the veil has
been alluded to in the first chapter of this work. It has also been
mentioned that it is considered more necessary, in Egypt, for a
1 See the chapter on Religion and Laws. Eunuchs
are allowed to see the
face of any woman; so also are young boys.

woman to cover the upper and back
part of her head than her
face; and more requisite for her to conceal her
face than most
other parts of her person. For instance, a female who cannot
be
persuaded to unveil her face in the presence of men, will think it
but little shame to display the whole of her bosom, or the greater
part of
her leg. There are, it is true, many women among the
lower classes in this
country who constantly appear in public with
unveiled face; but they are
almost constrained to do so by the
want to a burko' (or face-veil), and the
difficulty of adjusting the
tarhah (or head-veil), of which scarcely any
woman is destitute, so
as to supply the place of the former; particularly
when both their
hands are occupied in holding some burden which they are
carrying
upon the head. When a respectable woman is, by any chance,
seen with her head or face uncovered by a man who is not entitled
to enjoy
that privilege, she quickly assumes or adjusts her
tarhab, and often
exclaims, “O my misfortune!” or “O my
sorrow!”
Motives of coquetry, however, frequently induce an
Egyptian woman to expose her face before a man when she thinks
that she may
appear to do so unintentionally, or that she may be
supposed not to see
him. A man may also occasionally enjoy
opportunities of seeing the face of
an Egyptian lady when she
really thinks herself unobserved; sometimes at an
open lattice,
and sometimes on a house-top. Many small houses in
Cairo
have no apartment on the ground-floor for the reception of male
visitors,
who therefore ascend to an upper room; but as they go
upstairs they exclaim
several times, “Destoor!”
(“Permission!”),
or “Yá
Sátir!” (“O Protector!” that is,
“O protecting God!”),
or us some similar ejaculation,
in order to warn any woman who
may happen to be in the way, to retire, or
to veil herself; which
she does by drawing a part of her tarhah before her
face, so as to
leave, at most, only one eye visible. To such an absurd
pitch do
the Muslims carry their feeling of the sacredness of women,
that
entrance into the
tombs of some females is
denied to men; as, for
instance, the tombs of the Prophet's wives and other
females of his
family, in the burial-ground of El-Medeeneh; into which
women
are freely admitted; and a man and woman they never bury in
the
same vault, unless a wall separate the bodies. Yet there are
among the
Egyptians a few persons who are much less particular
in this respect: such
is one of my Muslim friends here, who generally
allows me to see his mother
when I call upon him. She is
a widow, of about fifty years of age; but,
being very fat, and not
looking so old, she calls herself forty. She
usually comes to the

door of the apartment of the
hareem, in which I am received
(there being no lower apartment in the house
for male visitors),
and sits there upon the floor, but will never enter the
room.
Occasionally, and as if by accident, she shows me the whole of
her face, with plenty of kohl round her eyes; and does not attempt
to
conceal her diamonds, emeralds, and other ornaments,
but rather the
reverse. The wife, however, I am never permitted to
see, though once I was
allowed to talk to her, in the presence of
her husband, round the corner of
a passage at the top of the stairs.
I believe that in Egypt the women are generally under less
restraint than in
any other country of the Turkish empire; so that
it is not uncommon to see
females of the lower orders flirting and
jesting with men in public, and
men laying their hands upon them
very freely. Still it might be imagined
that the women of the
higher and middle classes feel themselves severely
oppressed, and
are much discontented with the state of seclusion to which
they
are subjected; but this is not commonly the case. On the
contrary,
an Egyptian wife who is attached to her husband is apt to
think, if he allows her unusual liberty, that he neglects her, and
does not
sufficiently love her; and to envy those wives who are
kept and watched
with greater strictness.
It is not very common for an Egyptian to have more than one
wife, or a
concubine-slave, though the law allows him
four
wives
(as I have before stated), and, according to common opinion, as
many concubine-slaves as he may choose. But though a man
restrict himself
to a single wife, he may change as often as he
desires; and there are
certainly not many persons in
Cairo who
have not divorced one wife, if they
have been long married. The
husband may, whenever he pleases, say to his
wife, “Thou art
divorced;” if it be his wish, whether
reasonable or not, she must
return to her parents or friends. This
liability to an unmerited
divorcement is the source of more uneasiness to
many wives than
all the other troubles to which they are exposed; as they
may
thereby be reduced to a state of great destitution; but to others,
who hope to better their condition, it is, of course, exactly the
reverse.
I have mentioned, in a former chapter, that a man many
divorce his wife
twice, and each time receive her again without
any ceremony; but that he
cannot legally take her again after a
third divorce until she has been
married and divorced by another
man. The consequences of a triple divorce
conveyed in one sentence
are the same, unless the man and his wife agree to
infringe
the law, or the former deny his having pronounced the sentence;

in which latter case the woman may
have much difficulty to enforce
his compliance with the law, if she be
inclined to do so.
In illustration of this subject, I may mention a case in which
an
acquaintance of mine was concerned as a witness of the sentence
of divorce.
He was sitting in a coffee-shop with two other
men, one of whom had just
been irritated by something that his
wife had said or done. After a short
conversation upon this affair,
the angry husband sent for his wife, and as
soon as she came,
said to her, “Thou art trebly
divorced;” then addressing his two
companions, he added,
“You, my brothers, are witnesses.” Shortly
after,
however, he repented of this act, and wished to take back
his divorced
wife; but she refused to return to him, and appealed
to the
“Shara Allah” (or Law of God). The case was tried at
the Mahkem'eh. The woman, who was the plaintiff, stated that
the defendant
was her husband; that he had pronounced against
her the sentence of a
triple divorce; and that he now wished her
to return to him, and live with
him as his wife, contrary to the
law, and consequently in a state of sin.
The defendant denied
that he had divorced her. “Have you
witnesses?” said the
judge to the plaintiff. She answered,
“I have here two witnesses.”
These were the men who
were present in the coffee-shop when
the sentence of divorce was
pronounced. They were desired to
give their evidence, and they stated that
the defendant divorced
his wife by a triple sentence, in their presence.
The defendant
averred that she whom he had divorced in the coffee-shop
was
another wife of his. The plaintiff declared that he had no other
wife: but the judge observed to her that it was impossible she
could know
that; and asked the witnesses what was the name of
the woman whom the
defendant divorced in their presence?
They answered that they were ignorant
of her name. They were
then asked if they could swear that the plaintiff
was the woman
who was divorced before them? Their reply was, that they
could
not swear to a woman whom they had never seen unveiled.
Under
these circumstances, the judge thought it advisable to dismiss
the case,
and the woman was obliged to return to her husband.
She might have demanded
that he should produce the
woman whom he professed to have divorced in the
coffee-shop,
but he would easily have found a woman to play the part he
required,
as it would not have been necessary for her to show a
marriage certificate; marriages being almost always performed in
Egypt
without any written contract, and sometimes even without
witnesses.

It not unfrequently happens that, when a man who has divorced
his wife the
third time wishes to take her again (she herself consenting
to their
reunion, and there being no witnesses to the
sentence of divorce), he does
so without conforming with the
offensive law before mentioned. It is also a
common custom for
a man under similar circumstances to employ a person to
marry
the divorced woman on the condition of his resigning her, the
day after their union, to him, her former husband, whose wife she
again
becomes, by a second contract; though this is plainly
contrary to the
spirit of the law. The wife, however, can withhold
her consent, unless she
is not of age; in which case, her
father, or other lawful guardian, may
marry her to whom he
pleases. A poor man (generally a very ugly person, and
often
one who is blind) is usually chosen to perform this office. He
is
termed a “Mustahall,” or
“Mustahill,” or a “Mohallil.” It is
often
the case that the man thus employed is so pleased with the
beauty
of the woman to whom he is introduced on these terms, or with
her riches, that he refuses to give her up; and the law cannot
compel him
to divorce her, unless he act unjustly towards her as
her husband; which of
course he takes good care not to do.
But a person may employ a mustahall
without running this risk.
It is the custom of many wealthy Turks, and of
some of the people
of Egypt, to make use of a slave, generally a black,
their own
property, to officiate in this character. Sometimes, a slave
is
purchased for this purpose; or if the person who requires him for
such a service be acquainted with a slave-dealer, he asks from the
latter a
present of a slave, signifying that he will give him back
again. The uglier
the slave, the better. The Turks generally
choose one not arrived at
puberty, which the tenets of their sect
allow. As soon as the woman has
accomplished her “'eddeh”
(or the period during which
she is obliged to wait before she can
marry again), the husband who
divorced her, having previously
obtained her consent to what he is about to
do, introduces the
slave to her, and asks her if she will be married to
him. She
replies that she will. She is accordingly wedded to the slave,
in
the presence of witnesses, and a dowry is given to her, to make
the
marriage perfectly legal. The slave consummates the marriage,
and thus
becomes the woman's legitimate husband. Immediately
after, or on the
following morning, her former husband presents
this slave to her as her own
property, and the moment that she
accepts him, her marriage with him
becomes dissolved; for it is
unlawful for a woman to be the wife of her own
slave: though

she may emancipate a slave, and
then marry him. As soon as
her marriage is dissolved
by her accepting the gift of the slave, she
may give back this slave to her
husband: but it seldom happens
that the latter will allow a person who has
been a mustahall for
him to remain in his house. The wife, after this
proceeding,
may, as soon as she has again accomplished her 'eddeh,
become
reunited to her former husband, after having been separated
from
him, by the necessity of her fulfilling two 'eddehs, about half a
year, or perhaps more.
That the facility of divorce has depraving effects upon both
sexes may be
easily imagined. There are many men in this
country who, in the course of
ten years, have married as many as
twenty, thirty, or more wives; and women
not far advanced in
age who have been wives to a dozen or more men
successively.
I have heard of men who have been in the habit of marrying
a
new wife almost every month. A person may do this although
possessed
of very little property: he may choose, from among the
females of the lower
orders in the streets of
Cairo, a handsome
young widow or divorced woman
who will consent to become his
wife for a dowry of about ten shillings; and
when he divorces
her, he need not give her more than double that sum to
maintain
her during her ensuing 'eddeh. It is but just, however, to
add
that such conduct is generally regarded as very disgraceful; and
that few parents in the middle or higher classes will give a daughter
in
marriage to a man who has divorced many wives.
Polygamy, which is also attended with very injurious effects
upon the morals
of the husband and the wives, and only to be
defended because it serves to
prevent a greater immorality than it
occasions, is more rare among the
higher and middle classes than
it is among the lower orders; and it is not
very common among
the latter. A poor man may indulge himself with two or
more
wives, each of whom may be able, by some art or occupation,
nearly to provide her own subsistence; but most persons of the
middle and
higher orders are deterred from doing so by the consideration
of the
expense and discomfort which they would incur.
A man having a wife who has
the misfortune to be barren, and
being too much attached to her to divorce
her, is sometimes
induced to take a second wife, merely in the hope of
obtaining
offspring; and from the same motive, he may take a third and
a fourth; but fickle passion is the most evident and common
motive both to
polygamy and repeated divorces. They are comparatively
very few who gratify
this passion by the former practice.

I believe that no more than one
husband among twenty has two
wives.
When there are two or more wives belonging to one man, the
first (that is,
the one first married) generally enjoys the highest
rank; and is called
“the great lady.” Hence it often happens
that, when a
man who has already one wife wishes to marry
another girl or woman, the
father of the latter, or the female
herself who is sought in marriage, will
not consent to the union
unless the firs wife by previously divorced. The
women, of
course, do not approve of a man's marrying more than one
wife.
Most men of wealth, or of moderate circumstances, and even
many
men of the lower orders, if they have two or more wives,
have, for each, a
separate house. The wife has, or can oblige her
husband to give her, a
particular description of lodging, which is
either a separate house, or a
suite of apartments (consisting of a
room in which to sleep and pass the
day, a kitchen, and a latrina)
that are, or may be made, separate and shut
out from any other
apartments in the same house. A fellow-wife is called
“durrah.”
1
The quarrels of durrahs are often talked of: for it may be
naturally
inferred that, when two wives share the affection and
attentions of the
same man, they are not always on terms of amity
with each other; and the
same is generally the case with a wife
and a concubine-slave living in the
same house, and under similar
circumstances.
2 If the chief lady be barren, and an
inferior,
either wife or slave, bear a child to her husband or master,
it
commonly results that the latter woman becomes a favourite of
the
man, and that the chief wife or mistress is “despised in her
eyes,” as Abraham's wife was in the eyes of Hagar on the same
account.
3 It
therefore not very unfrequently happens that the
first wife loses her rank
and privileges; another becomes the chief
lady, and, being the favourite of
her husband, is treated by her
rival or rivals, and by all the members and
visitors of the hareem,
with the same degree of outward respect which the
first wife
previously enjoyed: but sometimes the poisoned cup is
employed
to remove her. A preference given to a second wife is often
the
cause of the first's being registered as
“náshizeh,”
4 either on her
1 Commonly thus pronounced (or rather
“durrah,” with a soft d)
for
“darrah”; originally, perhaps, by way of a
pun; as “durrah” is a common
name for a parrot.
2 The law enjoins a husband who has two or more
wives, to be strictly impartial
to them in every respect; but
compliance with its dictates in this matter is rare.
4 This has been explained in the 3rd chapter,
page 88.

husband's or her own application at
the Mahkem'eh. Yet many
instances are known of neglected wives behaving
with exemplary
and unfeigned submission to their husband, in such cases,
and
with amiable good nature towards the favourite.
1
1 In general, the most beautiful of a man's
wives or slaves is, of course, for
a time, his greatest favourite; but
in many (if not most) cases, the lasting
favourite is not the most
handsome. The love of a Muslim, therefore, is not
always merely
sensual; nor does the relative condition and comfort of his
wife, or of
each of his wives, invariably depend so much on his caprice or her
own
personal charms, as on her general conduct and disposition.
Some wives have female slaves who are their own property,
generally
purchased for them, or presented to them, before
marriage. These cannot be
the husband's concubines without
their mistress's permission, which is
sometimes granted (as it was
in the case of Hagar, Sarah's bondwoman); but
very seldom.
Often, the wife will not even allow her female slave or slaves
to
appear unveiled in the presence of her husband. Should such a
slave, without the permission of her mistress, become the concubine
of the
husband, and bear him a child, the child is a slave,
unless, prior to its
birth, the mother be sold, or presented, to the
father.
The white female slaves are mostly in the possession of wealthy
Turks. The
concubine-slaves
2
in the houses of Egyptians of the
higher and middle classes are, generally,
Abyssinians, of a deep
brown or bronze complexion. In their features, as
well as their
complexions, they appear an intermediate race between
the
negroes and white people: but the difference between them and
either of the above-mentioned races is considerable. They themselves,
however, think that they differ so little from the white
people, that they
cannot be persuaded to act as servants, with
due obedience, to their
master's wives; and the black (or negro)
slave-girl feels exactly in the
same manner towards the Abyssinian;
but is perfectly willing to serve the
white ladies. I should here
mention, that the slaves who are termed
Abyssinians are not from
the country properly called Abyssinia, but from
the neighbouring
territories of the Gallas. Most of them are handsome.
The
average price of one of these girls is from ten to fifteen pounds
sterling, if moderately handsome; but this is only about half the
sum that
used to be given for one a few years ago. They are
much esteemed by the
voluptuaries of Egypt; but are of delicate
constitution: many of them die,
in this country, of consumption.
The price of a white slave-girl is usually
from treble to tenfold
2 A Muslim cannot take as a concubine a slave
who is an idolatress.

that of an Abyssinian; and the
price of a black girl, about half or
two-thirds, or considerably more if
well instructed in the art of
cookery. The black slaves are generally
employed as menials.
1
1 The white female slave is called
“Gáriyeh Beyda;” the Abyssinian,
“Gáriyeh Habasheeyeh;” and the black,
“Gáriyeh Sóda.”
Almost all of the slaves become converts to the faith of
El-Islám;
but, in general, they are little instructed in the
rites of
their new religion; and still less in its doctrines. Most of
the
white female slaves who were in Egypt during my former visit to
this country were Greeks; vast numbers of that unfortunate
people having
been made prisoners by the Turkish and Egyptian
army under
Ibráheem Básha; and many of them, males and
females,
including even infants scarcely able to walk, sent to
Egypt to be sold.
Latterly, from the impoverishment of the
higher classes in this country,
the demand for white slaves has
been small. A few, some of whom undergo a
kind of preparatory
education (being instructed in music or other
accomplishments,
at Constantinople), are brought from Circassia and
Georgia.
The white slaves, being often the only female companions,
and
sometimes the wives, of the Turkish grandees, and being
generally preferred
by them before the free ladies of Egypt, hold
a higher rank than the latter
in common opinion. They are
richly dressed, presented with valuable
ornaments, indulged, frequently,
with almost every luxury that can be
procured, and,
when it is not their lot to wait upon others, may, in some
cases,
be happy: as lately has been proved, since the termination of
the
war in Greece, by many females of that country, captives in
Egyptian hareems, refusing their offered liberty, which all of
these cannot
be supposed to have done from ignorance of the
state of their parents and
other relations, or the fear of exposing
themselves to poverty. But, though
some of them are undoubtedly
happy, at least for a time, their number is
comparatively
small: most are fated to wait upon more favoured
fellow-prisoners,
or upon Turkish ladies, or to receive the unwelcome
caresses of a wealthy dotard, or of a man who has impaired his
body and
mind by excesses of every kind; and, when their
master or mistress becomes
tired of them, or dies, are sold
again (if they have not borne children),
or emancipated, and
married to some person in humble life, who can afford
them but
few of the comforts to which they have been accustomed. The
female slaves in the houses of persons of the middle classes in
Egypt are
generally more comfortably circumstanced than those

in the hareems of the wealthy: if
concubines, they are, in most
cases, without rivals to disturb their peace;
and if menials, their
service is light, and they are under less restraint.
Often, indeed,
if mutual attachment subsist between her and her master,
the
situation of a concubine-slave is more fortunate than that of a
wife:
for the latter may be cast off by her husband in a moment of
anger, by an irrevocable sentence of divorce, and reduced to a
state of
poverty; whereas a man very seldom dismisses a female
slave without
providing for her in such a manner that, if she have
not been used to
luxuries, she suffers but little, if at all, by the
change: this he
generally does by emancipating her, giving her a
dowry, and marrying her to
some person of honest reputation;
or by presenting her to a friend. I have
already mentioned, that
a master cannot sell nor give away a slave who has
borne him a
child, if he acknowledge it to be his own; and that she is
entitled
to her freedom on his death. It often happens that such a
slave, immediately after the birth of her child, is emancipated,
and
becomes her master's wife: when she has become free, she
can no longer
lawfully supply the place of a wife unless he marry
her. Many persons
consider it disgraceful even to sell a female
slave who has been long in
their service. Most of the Abyssinian
and black slave-girls are abominably
corrupted by the Gellábs,
or slave-traders, of
Upper Egypt and
Nubia, by whom they are
brought from their native countries: there are very
few of the age
of eight or nine years who have not suffered brutal
violence; and
so severely do these children, particularly the Abyssinians,
and
boys as well as girls, feel the treatment which they endure from
the Gellábs, that many instances occur of their drowning
themselves
during the voyage down the Nile.
1 The female slaves of
every class
are somewhat dearer than the males of the same age.
Those who have not had
the small-pox are usually sold for less
than the others. Three days' trial
is generally allowed to the
purchaser; during which time, the girl remains
in his, or some
friend's, hareem; and the women make their report to
him.
Snoring, grinding the teeth, or talking during sleep, are
commonly
considered sufficient reasons for returning her to the
dealer.—The
dresses of the female slaves are similar to those of
the
Egyptian women.
1 The Gellábs generally convey their
slaves partly over the desert and partly
down the river.
The female servants, who are Egyptian girls or women, are
those to whom the
lowest occupations are allotted. They generally

veil their faces in the presence of
their masters, with the
head-veil; drawing a part of this before the face,
so that they
leave only one eye and one hand at liberty to see and
perform
what they have to do. When a male visitor is received by the
master of a house in an apartment of the hareem (the females of
the family
having been sent into another apartment on the occasions),
he is usually,
or often, waited upon by a female servant,
who is always veiled.
Such are the relative conditions of the various classes in the
hareem. A
short account of their usual habits and employments
must be added.
The wives, as well as the female slaves, are not only often
debarred from
the privilege of eating with the master of the
family, but also required to
wait upon him when he dines or sups,
or even takes his pipe and coffee in
the hareem. They frequently
serve him as menials; fill and light his pipe,
make coffee for him,
and prepare his food, or, at least, certain dainty
dishes; and if I
might judge from my own experience, I should say that most
of them
are excellent cooks; for, when a dish has been recommended to
me because made by the wife of my host, I have generally found
it
especially good. The wives of men of the higher and middle
classes make a
great study of pleasing and fascinating their
husbands by unremitted
attentions, and by various arts. Their
coquetry is exhibited, even in their
ordinary gait, when they go
abroad, by a peculiar twisting of the body.
1 In the presence
of
the husband, they are usually under more or less restraint; and
hence they are better pleased when his visits, during the day, are
not very
frequent or long: in his absence, they often indulge in
noisy merriment.
1 The motion here described they term
“ghung.”
The diet of the women is similar to that of the men, but more
frugal; and
their manner of eating is the same. Many of them
are allowed to enjoy the
luxury of smoking; for this habit is not
considered unbecoming in a female,
however high her rank; the
odour of the finer kinds of the tobacco used in
Egypt being very
delicate. Their pipes are generally more slender than
those of
the men, and more ornamented; and the mouth-piece is
sometimes
partly composed of coral, in the place of amber. They
generally make use of perfumes, such as musk, civet, etc., and
often, also,
of cosmetics, and particularly of several preparations
which they eat or
drink with the view of acquiring what they

esteem a proper degree of
plumpness:
1 one of
these preparations
is extremely disgusting; being chiefly composed of
mashed
beetles.
2
Many of them also have a habit of chewing frankincense,
and labdanum, which
impart a perfume to the breath.
The habit of frequent ablutions renders
them cleanly in person.
They spend but little time in the operations of the
toilet; and,
after having dressed themselves in the morning, seldom
change
their clothes during the day. Their hair is generally braided
in
the bath; and not undone afterwards for several days.
1 The Egyptians (unlike the Maghrab'ees, and
some other people of Africa
and of the East) do not generally admire
very fat woman. In his love-songs,
the Egyptian commonly describes the
object of his affections as of slender
figure and small waist.
2 I observed here,—“It
would seem that these insects were eaten by the
Jews (see Leviticus xi.
22); but we cannot suppose that they derived this
customs from the
Egyptians, who regarded the beetle as sacred.”—A
learned
friend, however, has informed me, that the word rendered
“beetle” in our
version of the passage of
Scripture which occasioned this remark properly
signifies a kind of
locust.
The care of their children is the primary occupation of the
ladies of Egypt:
they are also charged with the superintendence
of domestic affairs; but, in
most families, the husband alone
attends to the household expenses. Their
leisure-hours are
mostly spent in working with the needle; particularly in
embroidering
handkerchiefs, head-veils, etc., upon a frame called
“menseg,” with coloured silks and gold. Many women, even
in
the houses of the wealthy, replenish their private purses by
ornamenting
handkerchiefs and other things in this manner, and
employing a “delláleh” (or female broker) to
take them to the
market, or to other hareems, for sale. The visit of one
hareem
to another often occupies nearly a whole day. Eating, smoking,
drinking coffee and sherbet, gossiping, and displaying their finery,
are
sufficient amusements to the company. On such occasions,
the master of the
house is never allowed to enter the hareem,
unless on some particular and
unavoidable business; and in this
case, he must give notice of his
approach, and let the visitors
have sufficient time to veil themselves, or
to retire to an adjoining
room. Being thus under no fear of his sudden
intrusion, and
being naturally of a lively and an unreserved disposition,
they
indulge in easy gaiety, and not unfrequently in youthful frolic.
When their usual subjects of conversation are exhausted, sometimes
one of
the party entertains the rests with the recital of some
wonderful or
facetious tale. The Egyptian ladies are very

seldom instructed either in music
or dancing; but they take
great delight in the performances of professional
musicians and
public dancers; and often amuse themselves and their guests,
in
the absence of better performers and better instruments, by beating
the “darabukkeh” (which is a kind of drum) and the
“tár”
(or tambourine); though seldom in
houses so situated that many
passengers might hear the sounds of festivity.
On the occasion
of any great rejoicing among the women (such as takes place
on
account of the birth of a son, or the celebration of a
circumcision,
or a wedding, etc.), “'A'l'mehs” (or
professional female
singers) are often introduced; but not for the mere
amusement
of the women, on common occasions, in any respectable
family;
for this would be considered indecorous. The
“Gházeeyehs”
(or public dancing-girls),
who exhibit in the streets with unveiled
faces, are very seldom admitted
into a hareem; but on such
occasions as those above mentioned, they often
perform in front
of the house, or in the court; though, by many persons,
even
this is not deemed strictly proper. The
“A'látees” (or male
musicians) are never
hired exclusively for the amusement of the
women; but chiefly for that of
the men: they always perform in
the assembly of the latter; their concert,
however, is distinctly
heard by the inmates of the hareem.
When the women of the higher or middle classes go out to
pay a visit, or for
any other purpose, they generally ride upon
asses. They sit astride, upon a
very high and broad saddle,
which is covered with a small carpet; and each
is attended by a
man on one or on each side. Generally, all the women of
a
hareem ride out together; one behind another. Mounted as
above
described, they present a very singular appearance. Being
raised so high
above the back of the “homár 'álee”
(or the
“high ass”—for so the animal which
they ride, furnished with
the high saddle, is commonly called
1), they seem very
insecurely
seated; but I believe this is not really the case: the ass is
well
girthed, and sure-footed; and proceeds with a slow, ambling
pace,
and very easy motion. The ladies of the highest rank, as
well as those of
the middling classes, ride asses, thus equipped:
they are very seldom seen
upon mules or horses. The asses
are generally hired. When a lady cannot
procure a homár 'álee,
she rides one of the asses
equipped for the use of the men; but
has a
“seggádeh” (or prayer-carpet) placed over its
saddle; and
1 It is also called “homár
mughattee” (covered ass).

the inferior members of the hareem,
and females of the middle
orders, often do the same. Ladies never walk
abroad, unless
they have to go but a very short distance. They have a
slow
and shuffling gait, owing to the difficulty of retaining the
slippers
upon their feet; and, in walking, they always hold the front
edges
of the habarah in the manner represented in the engraving in
page 38 in this volume. Whether walking or riding, they are
regarded with
much respect in public: no well-bred man stares
at them; but rather directs
his eyes another way. They are never
seen abroad at night, if not compelled
to go out or return at that
time by some pressing and extraordinary
necessity: it is their
usual rule to return from paying a visit before
sunset. The ladies
of the higher orders never go to a shop, but send for
whatever
they want; and there are numerous dellálehs who have
access to
the hareems, and bring all kinds of ornaments, articles of
female
apparel, etc., for sale. Nor do these ladies, in general, visit
the
public bath, unless invited to accompany thither some of their
friends; for most of them have baths in their own houses.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER IX.
LANGUAGE, LITERATURE, AND SCIENCE.
THE metropolis of Egypt maintains the comparative reputation
by which it has
been distinguished for many centuries, of being
the best school of Arabic
literature, and of Muslim theology and
jurisprudence. Learning, indeed, has
much declined among the
Arabs universally; but least in
Cairo:
consequently, the fame of
the professors of this city still remains
unrivalled; and its great
collegiate mosque, the Azhar, continues to
attract innumerable
students from every quarter of the Muslim world.
The Arabic spoken by the middle and higher classes in
Cairo is generally
inferior, in point of grammatical correctness and
pronunciation, to the
dialects of the Bedawees of Arabia, and of
the inhabitants of the towns in
their immediate vicinity; but
much to be preferred to those of
Syria; and
still more, to those
of the Western Arabs. The most remarkable
peculiarities in the
pronunciation of the people of Egypt are the
following:—The
fifth letter of the alphabet is pronounced by the
natives of
Cairo, and throughout the greater part of Egypt, as
g in
give;
while, in most
parts of Arabia, and in
Syria and other countries,
it receives the sound of
j in
joy: but it is worthy of
remark, that,
in a part of southern Arabia, where, it is said, Arabic was
first
spoken, the former sound is given to this letter.
1 In those parts
of
Egypt where this pronunciation of the fifth letter prevails, the
sound of
“hemzeh” (which is produced by a sudden emission of
the voice after a total suppression) is given to the twenty-first letter,
excepting by the better instructed, who give to this letter its true
1 It seems probable that the Arabs of Egypt have
retained, in this case, a
pronunciation which was common, if not almost
universal, with their ancestors
in Asia.—See De Sacy's
Grammaire Arabe, 2nde ed., tome i., pp. 17 and 18.

sound, which I represent by
“k.” In other parts of Egypt, the
pronunciation of
the fifth letter is the same as that of
j in
joy, or
nearly so; and the twenty-first letter is
pronounced as
g in
give.
By all the Egyptians, in common with most other people who speak
the
Arabic language, the third and fourth letters of the alphabet
are
pronounced alike, as our
t; and the eighth and ninth, as our
d.—Of the peculiarities in the
structure of the Egyptian dialect of
Arabic, the
most remarkable are, the annexation of the letter
“sheen” in negative phrases, in the same manner as the
word
“pas” is used in French; as
“má yerdásh,” for
“má yerda,” “he
will not
consent;” “má hoosh teiyib,”
(vulgarly, “mósh teiyib”),
for
“má huwa teiyib,” “it is not
good:” the placing the demonstrative
pronoun
after the word to which it relates; as “el-beyt
dé,” “this house;” and a frequent
unnecessary use of the
diminutive form in adjectives: as
“sugheiyir,” for “sagheer,”
“small;” “kureiyib,” for
“kareeb,” “near.”
There is not so much difference between the literary and vulgar
dialects of
Arabic as some European Orientalists have supposed:
the latter may be
described as the ancient dialect
simplified,
principally
by the omission of the final vowels and other terminations
which distinguish the different cases of nouns and some of the
persons of
verbs.
1 Nor is there
so great a difference between the
dialects of Arabic spoken in different
countries as some persons,
who have not held intercourse with the
inhabitants of such
countries, have imagined: they resemble each other more
than
the dialects of some of the different counties in England. The
Arabic language abounds with synonyms; and, of a number of
words which are
synonymous, one is in common use in one
country, and another elsewhere.
Thus, the Egyptian calls milk
“leben;” the Syrian
calls it “haleeb:” the word “leben,”
is
used in
Syria to denote a particular preparation of
sour milk.
Again, bread is called in Egypt
“'eysh;” and in other Arab
countries,
“khubz;” and many examples of a similar kind might
be
adduced.—The pronunciation of Egypt has more softness than
that
of
Syria and most other countries in which Arabic is spoken.
1 The Arabs began to simplify their spoken
language in the first century of
the Flight, in consequence of their
spreading among foreigners, who could not
generally acquire the
difficult language which their conquerors had hitherto
used. For a
proof of this, see “Abulfedae Annales Muslemici, Arab. et
Lat.”
vol. i. pp. 432 and 434.
The literature of the Arabs is very comprehensive; but the
number of their
books is more remarkable than the variety. The

relative number of the books which
treat of religion and jurisprudence
may be stated to be about one-fourth:
next in number
are works on grammar, rhetoric, and various branches of
philology:
the third in the scale of proportion are those on history
(chiefly
that of the Arab nation), and on geography: the fourth,
poetical
compositions. Works on medicine, chemistry, the mathematics,
algebra, and various other sciences, etc., are comparatively very
few.
There are, in
Cairo, many large libraries; most of which are
attached to
mosques, and consist, for the greater part, of works
on theology and
jurisprudence, and philology. Several rich merchants,
and others, have also
good libraries. The booksellers
of
Cairo are, I am informed, only eight in
number;
1 and
their
shops are but ill stocked. Whenever a valuable book comes
into
the possession of one of these person, he goes round with
it to his regular
customers; and is almost sure of finding a
purchaser. The leaves of the
books are seldom sewed together;
but they are usually enclosed in a cover
bound with leather; and
mostly have, also, an outer case of pasteboard and
leather.
Five sheets, or double leaves, are commonly placed together,
one
within another; composing what is called a
“karrás.” The
leaves are thus arranged, in
small parcels, without being sewed,
in order that one book may be of use to
a number of persons at
the same time; each taking a karrás. The
books are laid flat,
one upon another; and the name is written upon the
front of
the outer case, or upon the edge of the leaves. The paper is
thick and glazed: it is mostly imported from Venice, and glazed
in Egypt.
The ink is very thick and gummy. Reeds are used
instead of pens; and they
suit the Arabic character much better.
The Arab, in writing, places the
paper upon his knee, or upon
the palm of his left hand, or upon what is
called a “misned'eh,”
composed of a dozen or more
pieces of paper attached together
at the four corners, and resembling a
thin book, which he rests
on his knee. His ink and pens are contained in a
receptacle
called “dawáyeh,” mentioned in
the first chapter of this work,
together with the penknife, and an ivory
instrument (“mikattah”)
upon which the pen is laid to
be nibbed. He rules his paper by
laying under it a piece of pasteboard with
strings strained and
glued across it (called a
“mistar'ah”), and slightly pressing it over
each
string. Scissors are included among the apparatus of a
writer: they are
used for cutting the paper; a torn edge being
1 These are natives. There are also a few
Turkish booksellers.

considered as unbecoming. In
Cairo
there are many persons
who obtain their livelihood by copying manuscripts.
The expense
of writing a karrás of twenty pages, quarto size,
with about
twenty-five lines to a page, in an ordinary hand, is about
three
piasters (or a little more than sevenpence of our money); but
more if in an elegant hand; and about double the sum if with
the vowel
points, etc.
In Egypt, and particularly in its metropolis, those youths or
men who
purpose to devote themselves to religious employments,
or to any of the
learned professions, mostly pursue a course of
study in the great mosque
El-Azhar, having previously learned
nothing more than to read, and,
perhaps, to write, and to recite
the Kur-án. The Azhar, which is
regarded as the principal university
1
of the East, is an extensive building, surrounding a
large, square
court. On one side of this court, the side towards
Mekkeh, is the chief
place of prayer, a spacious portico; on each
of the other three sides are
smaller porticoes, divided into a
number of apartments, called
“riwáks,” each of which is destined
for
the use of natives of a particular country, or of a particular
province of
Egypt. This building is situated within the metropolis.
It is not
remarkable in point of architecture, and is so
surrounded by houses that
very little of it is seen externally. The
students are called
“mugáwireen.”
2 Each riwák has a library
for the use of its members; and from the books which it contains,
and the
lectures of the professors, the students acquire their
learning. The
regular subjects of study are grammatical inflexion
and syntax, rhetoric,
versification, logic, theology, the exposition
1 The Azhar is not called a
“university” with strict propriety; but is
regarded
as such by the Muslims, as whatever they deem worthy of the
name of
science, or necessary to be known, is taught within its walls.
Its name has
been translated by European travellers, “the
Mosque of Flowers,” as though
it had been called
“Gámë' el-Azhár,”
instead of “El-Gámë' el-Azhar,”
which
is its proper appellation, and signifies “the Splendid
Mosque.” It is the
first, with respect to the period of its
foundation, as well as in size, of all the
mosques within the original
limits of the city.—The preceding portion of this
note
(which was inserted in the first edition of the present work) appears
to
have escaped the notice of Baron Hammer-Purgstall, for he has
remarked (in
the Vienna “Jahrbücher der
Literatur,” lxxxi. Bd., p. 71) that, instead of
“Azhar,” I should have written, in this case,
“Esher” [or “Ezher”]; the
former, he says, signifying “flowers.” The name of the
mosque in question
(synonymous with “neiyir,” or
“splendid,” etc.) is pronounced by almost
all the
natives of Egypt, and the Arabs in general, as I have written it,
“Azhar,”
with the accent on the first syllable;
and the plural of “zahreh” (a
flower),
“azhár;” but by the Turks the former word
is pronounced “ezher.”
2 In the singular,
“mugáwir.”

of the Kur-án, the
Traditions of the Prophet, the complete science
of jurisprudence, or rather
of religious, moral, civil, and criminal
law, which is chiefly founded on
the Kur-án and the Traditions,
together with arithmetic, as far
as it is useful in matters of law.
Lectures are also given on algebra, and
on the calculations of the
Mohammadan calendar, the times of prayer, etc.
Different
books are read by students of different sects. Most of the
students,
being natives of
Cairo, are of the Shaáfe'ee sect; and
always
the Sheykh, or head of the mosque, is of this sect. None of
the
students pay for the instruction they receive, being mostly of
the poorer
classes. Most of those who are strangers, having
riwáks
appropriated to them, receive a daily allowance of food,
provided from
funds chiefly arising from the rents of houses bequeathed
for their
maintenance. Those of
Cairo and its neighbourhood
used to receive a similar
allowance; but this they no
longer enjoy, excepting during the month of
Ramadán; for the
present Básha of Egypt has taken
possession of all the cultivable
land which belonged to the mosques; and
thus the Azhar has
lost the greater portion of the property which it
possessed: nothing
but the expenses of necessary repairs, and the salaries
of
its principal officers, are provided for by the government. The
professors also receive no salaries. Unless they inherit property,
or have
relations to maintain them, they have no regular means
of subsistence but
teaching in private houses, copying books, etc.;
but they sometimes receive
presents from the wealthy. Any person
who is competent to the task may
become a professor by
obtaining a licence from the Sheykh of the mosque.
The students
mostly obtain their livelihood by the same means as the
professors, or by reciting the Kur-án in private houses, and at
the
tombs and other places. When sufficiently advanced in their
studies, some of them become kádees, muftees, imáms of
mosques,
or schoolmasters, in their native villages or towns, or in
Cairo; others enter into trade; some remain all their lifetime
studying in
the Azhar, and aspire to be ranked among the higher
'Ulama. Since the
confiscation of the lands which belonged to
the Azhar, the number of that
class of students to whom no endowed
riwák is appropriated has
very much decreased. The
number of students, including all classes
excepting the blind, is (as
I am informed by one of the professors) about
one thousand five
hundred.
1
1 Many persons say that their number is not less
than three thousand; others,
not more than one thousand. It varies very
much at different times.

There is a chapel (called “Záwiyet
el-'Omyán,” or the Chapel
of the Blind), adjacent to
the eastern angle of the Azhar, and one
of the dependencies of that mosque,
where at present about three
hundred poor blind men, most of whom are
students, are maintained
from funds bequeathed for that purpose. These
blind
men often conduct themselves in a most rebellious and violent
manner; they are notorious for such conduct and for their fanaticism.
A
short time ago, a European traveller entering the Azhar,
and his presence
there being buzzed about, the blind men eagerly
inquired, “Where
is the infidel?” adding, “We will kill
him!”
and groping about at the same time to feel and lay hold of
him;
they were the only persons who seemed desirous of showing any
violence to the intruder. Before the accession of the present
Básha, they often behaved in a very outrageous manner whenever
they considered themselves oppressed, or scanted in their allowance
of
food; they would, on these occasions, take a few guides,
go about with
staves, seize the turbans of passengers in the streets,
and plunder the
shops. The most celebrated of the present professors
in the Azhar, the
sheykh El-Kuweysinee,
1
who is himself
blind, being appointed, a few years ago, Sheykh of the
Záwiyet
el-'Omyán, as soon as he entered upon his
office, caused every
one of the blind men there to be flogged; but they
rose against
him, bound him, and inflicted upon him a flogging far more
severe
than that which they had themselves endured, and obliged him to
give up his office.
1 Since this was written he became Sheykh of the
Azhar.
Learning was in a much more flourishing state in
Cairo before
the entrance
of the French army than it has been in later years.
It suffered severely
from this invasion, not through direct oppression,
but in consequence of
the panic which this event occasioned
and the troubles by which it was
followed. Before that period, a
sheykh who had studied in the Azhar, if he
had only two boys,
sons of a moderately rich felláb, to educate,
lived in luxury:
his two pupils served him, cleaned his house, prepared his
food,
and, though they partook of it with him, were his menial
attendants
at every time but that of eating: they followed him
whenever
he went out, carried his shoes (and often kissed them when
they
took them off) on his entering a mosque, and in every case
treated
him with the honour due to a prince. He was then distinguished
by an ample dress and the large formal turban called a mukleh;
and as he
passed along the street, whether on foot or mounted
on an ass or mule,
passengers often pressed towards him to implore

a short ejaculatory prayer on their
behalf; and he who
succeeded in obtaining this wish believed himself
especially
blessed: if he passed by a Frank riding, the latter was
obliged
to dismount; if he went to a butcher to procure some meat (for
he found it best to do so, and not to send another), the butcher
refused to
make any charge, but kissed his hand, and received as
an honour and a
blessing whatever he chose to give.—The condition
of a man of
this profession is now so fallen that it is with
difficulty he can obtain a
scanty subsistence unless possessed of
extraordinary talent.
The Muslim 'ulama are certainly much fettered in the pursuit
of some of the
paths of learning by their religion; and superstition
sometimes decides a
point which has been controverted
for centuries. There is one singular
means of settling a contention
on any point of faith, science, or fact, of
which I must give
an instance. The following anecdote was related to me by
the
Imám of the late Muftee (the sheykh El-Mahdee): I wrote it
in
Arabic, at his dictation, and shall here translate his words. The
sheykh Mohammad El-Baháee (a learned man, whom the vulgar
regard
as a “welee,” or especial favourite of heaven) was
attending
the lectures of the sheykh El-Emeer El-Kebeer (sheykh of the
sect of the Málikees), when the professor read, from the
Gámë'
es-Sagheer
1 of Es-Suyootee, this saying of the Prophet:
“Verily
El-Hasan and El-Hoseyn are the two lords of the youths
of the
people of Paradise, in Paradise;” and proceeded to
remark, in
his lecture, after having given a summary of the history of
El-Hasan
and El-Hoseyn, that, as to the common opinion of the
people
of
Masr (or
Cairo) respecting the head of El-Hoseyn,
holding it to be in
the famous Mesh-hed in this city (the mosque
of the Hasaneyn), it was
without foundation; not being established
by any credible authority.
“I was affected,” says Mohammad
El-Baháee,
“with excessive grief, by this remark; since I
believed what is
believed by people of integrity and of intuition,
that the noble head was
in this Mesh-hed; and I entertained no
doubt of it: but I would not oppose
the sheykh El-Emeer, on
account of his high reputation and extensive
knowledge. The
lecture terminated, and I went away, weeping; and when
night
overshaded the earth, I rose upon my feet, praying and humbly
supplicating my Lord, and betaking myself to His most noble
apostle (God
favour and preserve him!), begging that I might see
him in my sleep, and
that he would inform me in my sleep of the
1 A celebrated compendious collection of the
Traditions of the Prophet.

truth of the matter concerning the
place of the noble head. And
I dreamed that I was walking on the way to
visit the celebrated
Mesh-hed El-Hoseynee in
Masr, and that I approached
the kubbeh,
1 and saw in it a
spreading light, which filled it: and I entered
its door, and found a
shereef standing by the door; and I saluted
him, and he returned my
salutation, and said to me, ‘Salute the
Apostle of God (God
favour and preserve him!);' and I looked
towards the kibleh,
2 and saw the Prophet
(God favour and preserve
him!) sitting upon a throne, and a man standing on
his
right, and another man standing on his left: and I raised my
voice, saying, ‘Blessing and peace be on thee, O Apostle of
God!'
and I repeated this several times, weeping as I did it: and I
heard the Apostle of God (God favour and preserve him!) say to
me,
‘Approach, O my son! O Mohammad!' Then the first
man took me,
and conducted me towards the Prophet (God favour
and preserve him!) and
placed me before his noble hands; and I
saluted him, and he returned my
salutation, and said to me, ‘God
recompense thee for thy visit
to the head of El-Hoseyn my son.'
I said, ‘O Apostle of God, is
the head of El-Hoseyn here?'
He answered, ‘Yes, it is here.' And
I became cheerful: grief
fled from me; and my heart was strengthened. Then
I said, ‘O
Apostle of God, I will relate to thee what my sheykh
and my
preceptor El-Emeer hath affirmed in his lecture:' and I
repeated
to him the words of the sheykh: and he (God favour and
preserve
him!) looked down, and then raised his head, and said,
‘The copyists are excused.' I awoke from my sleep joyful and
happy: but I found that much remained of the night; and I
became impatient
of its length; longing for the morn to shine,
that I might go to the
sheykh, and relate to him the dream, in
the hope that he might believe me.
When the morn arose, I
prayed, and went to the house of the sheykh; but
found the door
shut. I knocked it violently; and the porter came in
alarm,
asking, ‘Who is that?' but when he knew me, for he had
known
my abode from the sheykh, he opened the door to me: if it had
been another person, he would have beaten him. I entered the
court of the
house, and began to call out, ‘My Master! My
Master!' The sheykh
awoke, and asked, ‘Who is that?' I
answered, ‘It is
I, thy pupil, Mohammad El-Baháee!' The
sheykh was in wonder at
my coming at this time, and exclaimed,
‘God's perfection! What
is this? What is the news?' thinking
1 The saloon of the tomb.
2 That is, towards the niche which marks the
direction of Mekkeh.

that some great event had happened
among the people. He then
said to me, ‘Wait while I pray.' I did
not sit down until the
sheykh came down to the hall; when he said to me,
‘Come up:'
and I went up, and neither saluted him, nor kissed
his hand, from
the effect of the dream which I had seen; but said,
‘The head of
El-Hoseyn is in this well-known mesh-hed in
Masr:
there is no
doubt of it.' The sheykh said, ‘What proof have you
of that?
If it be a true record, adduce it.' I said, ‘From a
book, I have
none.' The sheykh said, ‘Hast thou seen a vision?'
I replied,
‘Yes;' and I related it to him; and informed him that
the
Apostle of God (God favour and preserve him!) had acquainted
me
that the man who was standing by the door was 'Alee the son
of
Aboo-Tálib, and that he who was on the right of the Prophet,
by
the throne, was Aboo-Bekr, and that he on his left was 'Omar
the son of
El-Khattáb; and that they had come to visit the head
of the
Imám El-Hoseyn. The sheykh rose, and took me by the
hand, and
said, ‘Let us go and visit the Mesh-hed El-Hoseynee;'
and when
he entered the kubbeh, he said, ‘Peace be on thee, O
son of the
daughter of the Apostle of God! I believe that the
noble head is here, by
reason of the vision which this person has
seen; for the vision of the
Prophet is true; since He hath said,
“Whoso seeth Me in his
sleep seeth Me truly; for Satan cannot
assume the similitude of My
from.”' Then the sheykh said to me,
‘Thou hast
believed, and I have believed: for these lights are
not
illusive.”'—The above-quoted tradition of the Prophet
has
often occasioned other points of dispute to be settled in the same
manner, by a dream; and when the dreamer is a person of reputation,
no one
ventures to contend against him.
The remark made at the commencement of this chapter implies
that there are,
in the present day, many learned men in the
metropolis of Egypt; and there
are some also in other towns of
this country. One of the most celebrated of
the modern 'Ulama
of
Cairo is the sheykh Hasan El-'Attár, who is
the present sheykh
of the Azhar. In theology and jurisprudence, he is not
so deeply
versed as some of his contemporaries, particularly the sheykh
El-Kuweysinee,
whom I have before mentioned; but he is eminently
accomplished in polite literature. He is the author of an
“Insha,”
or an excellent collection of Arabic
letters, on various subjects,
which are intended as models of epistolary
style. This work has
been printed at Boolák. In mentioning its
author, I fulfil a promise
which he condescended to ask of me: supposing
that I
should publish, in my own country, some account of the people

of
Cairo, he desired me to state
that I was acquainted with him,
and to give my opinion of his
acquirements.—The sheykh Mohammad
Shiháb is also
deservedly celebrated as an accomplished
Arabic scholar, and elegant poet.
His affability and wit attract
to his house, every evening, a few friends,
whose pleasures, on
these occasions, I sometimes participate. We are
received in a
small, but very comfortable room: each of us takes his own
pipe;
and coffee alone is presented to us: the sheykh's conversation
is
the most delightful banquet that he can offer us.—There are
also
several other persons in
Cairo who enjoy considerable reputation
as philologists and poets.—The sheykh 'Abd-Er-Rahmán
El-Gabartee,
another modern author, and a native of
Cairo,
particularly
deserves to be mentioned, as having written a very excellent
history
of the events which have taken place in Egypt since the
commencement of the twelfth century of the Flight.
1 He died in
1825, or 1826, soon
after my first arrival in
Cairo. His family
was of El-Gabart (also called
Ez-Zeyla'), a province of Abyssinia,
bordering on the ocean. The Gabartees
(or natives of that
country) are Muslims. They have a riwák (or
apartment appropriated
to such of them as wish to study) in the Azhar; and
there
is a similar provision for them at Mekkeh, and also at El-Medeeneh.
1 The twelfth century of the Flight commenced on
the 16th or 17th of
October, A.D. 1688.
The works of the ancient Arab poets were but imperfectly
understood (in
consequence of many words contained in them
having become obsolete) between
two and three centuries, only,
after the time of Mohammad: it must not
therefore be inferred,
from what has been said in the preceding paragraph,
that persons
able to explain the most difficult passages of the early
Arab
authors are now to be found in
Cairo, or elsewhere. There are,
however, many in Egypt who are deeply versed in Arabic Grammar,
rhetoric,
and polite literature; though the sciences mostly
pursued in this country
are theology and jurisprudence. Few of
the ‘ulama of Egypt are
well acquainted with the history of their
own nation; much less with that
of other people.
The literary acquirements of those who do not belong to the
classes who make
literature their profession are of a very inferior
kind. Many of the
wealthy tradespeople are well instructed in
the arts of reading and
writing; but few of them devote much
time to the pursuit of literature.
Those who have committed to
memory the whole, or considerable portions, of
the Kur-án, and
can recite two or three celebrated
“kaseedehs” (or short poems),

or introduce, now and then, an
apposite quotation in conversation,
are considered accomplished persons.
Many of the tradesmen
of
Cairo can neither read nor write, or can only
read; and
are obliged to have recourse to a friend to write their
accounts,
letters, etc.: but these persons generally cast accounts, and
make
intricate calculations, mentally, with surprising rapidity and
correctness.
It is a very prevalent notion among the Christians of Europe,
that the
Muslims are enemies to almost every branch of knowledge.
This is an
erroneous idea; but it is true that their
studies, in the present age, are
confined within very narrow
limits. Very few of them study medicine,
chemistry (for our
first knowledge of which we are indebted to the Arabs),
the
mathematics, or astronomy. The Egyptian medical and surgical
practitioners are mostly barbers, miserably ignorant of the
sciences which
they profess, and unskilful in their practice;
partly in consequence of
their being prohibited by their religion
from availing themselves of the
advantage of dissecting human
bodies. But a number of young men, natives of
Egypt, are now
receiving European instruction in medicine, anatomy,
surgery,
and other sciences, for the service of the Government. Many
of the Egyptians, in illness, neglect medical aid; placing their
whole
reliance on Providence or charms. Alchemy is more
studied in this country
than pure chemistry; and astrology,
more than astronomy. The astrolabe and
quadrant are almost
the only astronomical instruments used in Egypt.
Telescopes are
rarely seen here; and the magnetic needle is seldom
employed,
excepting to discover the direction of Mekkeh; for which
purpose,
convenient little compasses (called
“kibleeyehs”), showing
the direction of the kibleh at
various large towns in different
countries, are constructed, mostly at
Dimyát: many of these have
a dial, which shows the time of noon,
and also that of the 'asr at
different places and different seasons. Those
persons in Egypt
who profess to have considerable knowledge of astronomy
are
generally blind to the true principles of the science: to say that
the earth revolves round the sun, they consider absolute heresy.
Pure
astronomy they make chiefly subservient to their computations
of the
calendar.
The Muslim year consists of twelve lunar months; the names of
which are
pronounced by the Egyptians in the following manner:—
1. Moharram.
2. Safar.

3. Rabeea el-Owwal.
4. Rabeea
et-Tánee.
5. Gumád el-Owwal, or
Gumáda-l-Oola.
6. Gumád et-Tánee, or
Gumáda-t-Tániyeh.
7. Regeb.
8.
Shaabián.
9. Ramadán.
10.
Showwál.
11. Zu-l-Kaadeh, or El-Kaadeh.
12. Zu-l-Heggeh, or
El-Heggeh.
1
1 It is the general opinion of our chronologers,
that the first day of the
Muslim era of “the
Flight” (in Arabic, “el-Hijrah,” or, as it
is pronounced
by most of the Egyptians,
“el-Higreh,” more correctly translated
“the
Emigration”) was Friday, the 16th of July,
A.D. 622. It must be remarked,
that the Arabs generally commence each
month on the night on which the
new moon is first actually seen; and
this night is, in most cases, the second,
but sometimes and in some
places the third, after the true period of the new
moon: if, however,
the moon is not seen on the second or third night, the
month is
commenced on the latter. The new moon of July, A.D. 622, happened
between five and six o'clock in the morning of the 14th: therefore the
16th
was most probably the first day of the era.
This era does not commence from
the day on which the Prophet departed
from Mekkeh (as supposed by most
of our authors who have mentioned this
subject), but from the first day of the
moon or month of Moharram
preceding that event. It is said that Mohammad,
after he had remained
three days concealed in a cave near Mekkeh,
with Aboo-Bekr began his
journey, or “the flight,” to El-Medeeneh, on the
ninth day of the third month (Rabeea el-Owwal), sixty-eight days after
the
commencement of the era. Thus the first two months are made of
thirty days
each, which is often the case when the calculation from the
actual sight of the
new moon is followed; and the flight itself, from
the cave, may be inferred to
have commenced on the 22nd of September.
It may be added, that this
record, by showing that each of the first
two months consisted of thirty days,
strengthens the supposition that
the era commenced on the 16th of July. On
the eve of the 15th, the moon
was not visible.
Each of these months retrogrades through all the different
seasons of the
solar year in the period of about thirty-three years
and a half:
consequently, they are only used for fixing the anniversaries
of most
religious festivals, and for the dates of historical
events, letters, etc.;
and not in matters relating to astronomy or
the seasons. In the latter
cases, the Coptic months are still in
general use.
With their modern names I give the corresponding periods of
our calendar:—
| 1. Toot |
commences on the 10th or 11th of Sept. |
| 2. Bábeh |
commences on the 10th or 11th of Oct. |

| 3. Hátoor |
commences on the 9th or 10th of Nov. |
| 4. Kiyahk (vulg. Kiyák) |
commences on the 9th or 10th of Dec. |
| 5. Toobeh |
commences on the 8th or 9th of Jan. |
| 6. Amsheer |
commences on the 7th or 8th of Feb. |
| 7. Barmahát |
commences on the 9th of March. |
| 8. Barmoodeh |
commences on the 8th of April. |
| 9. Beshens |
commences on the 8th of May. |
| 10. Ba-ooneh |
commences on the 7th of June. |
| 11. Ebeeb |
commences on the 7th of July. |
| 12. Misra |
commences on the 6th of August. |
The Eiyám en-Nesee (Intercalary days), five or six days, complete
the year.
These months, it will be observed, are of thirty days each.
Five intercalary
days are added at the end of three successive
years; and six at the end of
the fourth year. The Coptic leap-year
immediately precedes ours: therefore
the Coptic year begins
on the 11th of September only when it is the next
after their leap-year;
or when our next ensuing year is a leap-year; and,
consequently,
after the following February, the corresponding days
of
the Coptic and our months will be the same as in other years.
The Copts
begin their reckoning from the era of Diocletian,
A.D. 284.
In Egypt, and other Muslim countries, from sunset to sunset is
reckoned as
the civil day; the night being classed with the day
which
follows it: thus the night
before Friday is
called the night
of Friday. Sunset is twelve o'clock: an hour after
sunset, one
o'clock; two hours, two o'clock; and so on to twelve;
after
twelve o'clock in the morning, the hours are again named one,
two, three, and so on.
1 The Egyptians wind up and (if necessary)
set their watches at
sunset; or rather, a few minutes after;
generally when they hear the call
to evening-prayer. Their
watches, according to this system of reckoning
from sunset, to be
always quite correct, should be set every evening, as
the days
vary in length.
1 Consequently the time of noon according to
Mohammadan reckoning, on
any particular day, subtracted from twelve,
gives the apparent time of sunset,
on that day, according to European
reckoning.
The following Table shows the times of Muslim prayer,
2 with
2 The periods of the 'eshë, daybreak,
and 'asr, are here given according to
the reckoning most commonly
followed in Egypt. (See the chapter on
religion and laws.) Mo. T.
denotes Mohammadan Time: Eur. T., European
Time.

the apparent European time of
sunset, in and near the latitude of
Cairo, at the commencement of each
zodiacal month:—
|
|
Sunset. |
'Eshë. |
Daybreak. |
Noon. |
'Asr. |
|
|
Mo. |
T. |
Eur. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
Mo. |
T. |
|
|
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
h. |
m. |
| June 21 |
12 |
0 |
7 |
4 |
1 |
34 |
8 |
6 |
4 |
56 |
8 |
31 |
| July 22 |
May 21 |
12 |
0 |
6 |
53 |
1 |
30 |
8 |
30 |
5 |
7 |
8 |
43 |
| Aug. 23 |
Apr. 20 |
12 |
0 |
6 |
31 |
1 |
22 |
9 |
24 |
5 |
29 |
9 |
4 |
| Sept. 23 |
Mar. 20 |
12 |
0 |
6 |
4 |
1 |
18 |
10 |
24 |
5 |
56 |
9 |
24 |
| Oct. 23 |
Feb. 18 |
12 |
0 |
5 |
37 |
1 |
18 |
11 |
18 |
6 |
23 |
9 |
35 |
| Nov. 22 |
Jan. 20 |
12 |
0 |
5 |
15 |
1 |
22 |
11 |
59 |
6 |
45 |
9 |
41 |
| Dec. 21 |
12 |
0 |
5 |
4 |
1 |
24 |
12 |
15 |
6 |
56 |
9 |
43 |
A pocket almanack is annually printed at the government-press
at
Boolák.
1 It comprises the period of a solar year, commencing
and
terminating with the vernal equinox; and gives, for every
day, the day of
the week, and of the Mohammadan, Coptic,
Syrian, and European months;
together with the sun's place in
the zodiac, and the time of sunrise, noon,
and the 'asr. It is
prefaced with a summary of the principal eras and
feast-days
of the Muslims, Copts, and others; and remarks and notices
relating to the seasons. Subjoined to it is a calendar containing
physical,
agricultural, and other notices for every day in the year;
mentioning
eclipses, etc.; and comprising much matter suited
to the superstitions of
the people. It is the work of Yahya
Efendee, originally a Christian priest
of
Syria; but now a
Muslim.
1 More than a hundred books have been printed at
this press: most of them
for the use of the military, naval, and civil
servants of the government.
Of Geography, the Egyptians in general, and, with very few
exceptions, the
best instructed among them, have scarcely any
knowledge; having no good
maps, they are almost wholly
ignorant of the relative situations of the
several great countries
of Europe. Some few of the learned venture to
assert that the
earth is a globe; but they are opposed by a great majority
of the
'Ulama. The common opinion of all classes of Muslims is, that
our earth is an almost plane expanse, surrounded by the ocean,
2
which, they say, is encompassed by a chain of mountains called
“Káf.” They believe it to be the uppermost of
seven earths;
and in like manner they believe
that there are seven heavens, one
above another.
2 As the Greeks believed in the age of Homer and
Hesiod.

Such being the state of science among the modern Egyptians,
the reader will
not be surprised at finding the present chapter
followed by a long account
of their superstitions; a knowledge
of which is necessary to enable him to
understand their character,
and to make due allowances for many of its
faults. We may
hope for, and, indeed, reasonably expect, a very great
improvement
in the intellectual and moral state of this people, in
consequence
of the introduction of European sciences, by which
their
present ruler has, in some degree, made amends for his
oppressive sway; but
it is not probable that this hope will be
soon realized to any considerable
extent.
1
1 It has been justly remarked, by Baron
Hammer-Purgstall, that the
present chapter of this work is very
deficient. I should gladly have made its
contents more ample, had I not
felt myself obliged to consult the taste of the
general reader, upon
whose patience I fear I have already trespassed to too
great an extent
by the insertion of much matter calculated to interest only
Orientalists. With respect to recent innovations, I have made but few
and
brief remarks in this work, in consequence of my having found the
lights of
European science almost exclusively confined to those
servants of the Government,
who have been compelled to study under Frank instructors, and European
customs
adopted by scarcely any persons excepting a few Turks. Some
Egyptians who had studied for a few years in France
declared to me that they
could not instil any of the notions which they
had there acquired even into the
minds of their most intimate
friends.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER X.
SUPERSTITIONS.
THE Arabs are a very superstitious people; and none of them are
more so than
those of Egypt. Many of their superstitions form a
part of their religion;
being sanctioned by the Kur-án; and the
most prominent of these
is the belief in “Ginn,” or Genii— in the
singular, “Ginnee.”
The Ginn are said to be of preadamite origin, and, in their
general
properties, an intermediate class of beings between angles
and men, but
inferior in dignity to both, created of fire, and capable
of assuming the
forms and material fabric of men, brutes, and
monsters, and of becoming
invisible at pleasure. They eat and
drink, propagate their species (like,
or in conjunction with, human
beings), and are subject to death; though
they generally live

many centuries. Their principal
abode is in the chain of mountains
called
“Káf,” which are believed to encompass the
whole
earth: as mentioned near the close of the preceding chapter.
Some are believers in El-Islám: others are infidels: the latter
are
what are also called “Sheytáns,” or
devils; of whom Iblees (that is,
Satan, or
the
devil) is the chief: for it is the general and best-supported
opinion, that
he (like the other devils) is a ginnee, as he was
created of fire; whereas
the
angels are created of
lights,
and are impeccable.
Of both the classes of genii, good and evil, the
Arabs
stand in great awe; and for the former they entertain a high
degree
of respect. It is a common custom of this people, on pouring
water,
etc., on the ground, to exclaim, or mutter,
“Destoor;” that is, to
ask the permission, or crave
the pardon, of any ginnee that may
chance to be there: for the ginn are
supposed to pervade the
solid matter of the earth, as well as the
firmament, where, approaching
the confines of the lowest heaven, they often
listen to the
conversation of the angels respecting future things, thus
enabling
themselves to assist diviners and magicians. They are also
believed
to inhabit rivers, ruined houses, wells, baths, ovens, and
even the
latrina: hence, persons, when they enter the
latter place,
and when they let down a bucket into a well, or light a fire,
and
on other occasions, say, “Permission!” or
“Permission, ye
blessed!”—which words, in
the case of entering the latrina, they
sometimes preface with a prayer for
God's protection against all
evil spirits; but in doing this, some persons
are careful not to
mention the name of God after they have entered (deeming
it
improper in such a place), and only say, “I seek refuge with
Thee
from the male and female devils.” These customs present a
Commentary
on the story in the “Thousand and One
Nights,” in
which a merchant is described as having killed a
ginnee by throwing
aside the stone of a date which he had just eaten. In
the
same story, and in others of the same collection, a ginnee is
represented
as approaching in a whirlwind of sand or dust; and it is
the general belief of the Arabs of Egypt, that the
“zóba'ah,” or
whirlwind which raises the
sand or dust in the form of a pillar of
prodigious height, and which is so
often seen sweeping across the
fields and deserts of this country, is
caused by the flight of one of
these beings; or, in other words, that the
ginnee “rides in the
whirlwind.”
1 A charm is usually
uttered by the Egyptians to
1 I measured the height of a zóba'ah,
with a sextant, at Thebes, under
circumstances which insured a very
near approximation to perfect accuracy
(observing its altitude, from an
elevated spot, at the precise moment when it
passed through, and
violently agitated, a distant group of palm-trees), and
found it to be
seven hundred and fifty feet. I think that several zóba'ahs
which I have seen were of greater height. Others, which I measured at
the
same place, were between five hundred and seven hundred feet in
height.

avert the zóba'ah, when
it seems to be approaching them: some
of them exclaim, “Iron,
thou unlucky!”—as genii are supposed
to have a great
dread of that metal: others endeavour to drive
away the monster by
exclaiming, “God is most great!” What
we call a
“falling star” (and which the Arabs term
“shilháb”) is
commonly believed to be a
dart thrown by God at an evil ginnee;
and the Egyptians, when they see it,
exclaim, “May God transfix
the enemy of the faith!”
The evil ginnees are commonly termed
“'Efreets;” and
one of this class is mentioned in the Kur-án in
these words,
“An 'efreet of the ginn answered” (chap. xxvii. ver.
39): which words Sale translates, “A terrible genius
answered.”
They are generally believe to differ from the other
ginn in being
very powerful, and always malicious; but to be, in other
respects,
of a similar nature. An evil ginnee of the most powerful class
is
called a “Márid.”
Connected with the history of the ginn are many fables not
acknowledged by
the Kur-án, and therefore not credited by the
more sober
Muslims, but only by the less instructed. All agree
that the ginn were
created before mankind; but some distinguish
another class of preadamite
beings of a similar nature. It is commonly
believed that the earth was
inhabited, before the time of
Adam, by a race of beings differing from
ourselves in form, and
much more powerful; and that forty (or, according to
some,
seventy-two) preadamite kings, each of whom bore the name of
Suleymán (or Solomon), successively governed this people. The
last of these Suleymáns was named Gánn
Ibn-Gánn; and from
him, some think, the ginn (who are also
called “gánn”)
1 derive
their name. Hence, some
believe the ginn to be the same with
the preadamite race here mentioned:
but other assert that they
(the ginn) were a distinct class of beings, and
brought into subjection
by the other race.
1 According to some writers, the Gánn
are the least powerful class of Genii.
Ginnees are believed often to assume, or perpetually to wear,
the shapes of
cats, dogs, and other brute animals. The sheykh
Khaleel
El-Medábighee, one of the most celebrated of the 'ulama
of
Egypt, and author of several works on various sciences, who
died, at a very
advanced age, during the period of my former visit

to this country, used to relate the
following anecdote.—He had,
he said, a favourite black cat,
which always slept at the foot of his
musquito-curtain. Once, at midnight,
he heard a knocking at the
door of his house; and his cat went, and opened
the hanging shutter
of his window, and called, “Who is
there?” A voice replied,
“I am such a one”
(mentioning a strange name) “the ginnee:
open the
door.” “The lock,” said the sheykh's cat,
“has had the
name [of God] pronounced upon it.”
1 “Then
throw me down,”
said the other, “two cakes of
bread.” “The bread-basket,” answered
the
cat at the window, “has had the name pronounced
upon
it.” “Well,” said the stranger, “at
leas give me a draught
of water.” But he was answered that the
water-jar had been
secured in the same manner; and asked what he was to do,
seeing
that he was likely to die of hunger and thirst: the sheykh's
cat told him to go to the door of the next house; and went there
also
himself, and opened the door, and soon after returned. Next
morning the
sheykh deviated from a habit which he had constantly
observed: he gave, to
the cat, half of the fateereh upon which he
breakfasted, instead of a
little morsel, which he was wont to give;
and afterwards said,
“O my cat, thou knowest that I am a poor
man: bring me, then, a
little gold:” upon which words, the cat
immediately disappeared,
and he saw it no more.—Ridiculous as
stories of this kind really
are, it is impossible, without relating one
or more, to convey a just
notion of the opinions of the people
whom I am attempting to describe.
1 It is a custom of many
“fukaha” (or learned and devout persons), and
some others, to say, “In the name of God, the Compassionate, the
Merciful,”
on locking a door, covering bread, laying down
their clothes at night, and on
other occasions; and this, they believe,
protects their property from genii. The
thing over which these words
have been pronounced is termed “musemmee
(for
“musemma”) 'aleyh.”
It is commonly affirmed, that malicious or disturbed genii very
often
station themselves on the roofs, or at the windows, of houses
in
Cairo, and
other towns of Egypt, and throw bricks and stones
down into the streets and
courts. A few days ago, I was told of
a case of this kind, which had
alarmed the people in the main
street of the metropolis for a whole week;
many bricks having
been thrown down from some of the houses every day
during this
period, but nobody killed or wounded. I went to the scene
of
these pretended pranks of the genii, to witness them, and to make
inquiries on the subjects; but on my arrivals there, I was told that
the
“regm” (that is, the throwing) had ceased. I found no
one

who denied the throwing down of the
bricks, or doubted that it
was the work of genii; and the general remark,
on mentioning
the subject, was, “God preserve us from their evil
doings!”
One of my friends observed to me, on this occasion, that he
had met with
some Englishmen who disbelieved in the existence
of genii; but he concluded
that they had never witnessed a public
performance, though common in their
country, of which he had
since heard, called
“kumedyeh” (or comedy); by which term he
meant to
include all theatrical performances. Addressing one of
his countrymen, and
appealing to me for the confirmation of his
words, he then
said—“An Algerine, a short time ago, gave me an
account of a spectacle of this kind which he had seen in
London.”
—Here his countryman interrupted him, by
asking, “Is not
England in London? or is London a town in
England?”—My
friend, with diffidence, and looking to
me, answered that London
was the metropolis of England; and then resumed
the subject of
the theatre.—“The house,”
said he, “in which the spectacle was
exhibited cannot be
described: it was of a round form, with many
benches on the floor, and
closets all round, in rows, one above
another, in which people of the
higher classes sat; and there was
a large square aperture, closed with a
curtain. When the house
was full of people, who paid large sums of money to
be admitted,
it suddenly became very dark: it was night; and the house
had
been lighted up with a great many lamps; but these became
almost
entirely extinguished, all at the same time, without being
touched by
anybody. Then the great curtain was drawn up:
they heard the roaring of the
sea and wind; and indistinctly perceived,
through the gloom, the waves
rising and foaming, and
lashing the shore. Presently a tremendous peal of
thunder was
heard; after a flash of lightning had clearly shown to the
spectators
the agitated sea: and then there fell a heavy shower of
real
rain. Soon after, the day broke; the sea became more plainly
visible; and two ships were seen in the distance: they approached,
and
fought each other, firing their cannons; and a variety of other
extraordinary scenes were afterwards exhibited. Now it is
evident,” added my friend, “that such wonders must have
been
the works of genii, or at least performed by their
assistance.”—
He could not be convinced of his error
by my explanations of
these phenomena.
During the month of Ramadán, the genii, it is said, are confined
in prison; and hence, on the eve of the festival which follows that
month,
some of the women of Egypt, with the view of preventing

these objects of dread from
entering their houses, sprinkle salt
upon the floors of the apartments;
saying, as they do it, “In the
name of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful.”
A curious relic of ancient Egyptian superstition must here be
mentioned. It
is believed that each quarter in
Cairo has its
peculiar guardian-genius, or
Agathodaemon, which has the form of
a serpent.
The ancient tombs of Egypt, and the dark recesses of the
temples, are
commonly believed, by the people of this country, to
be inhabited by
'efreets. I found it impossible to persuade one
of my servants to enter the
Great Pyramid with me, from his
having this idea. Many of the Arabs ascribe
the erection of the
Pyramids, and all the most stupendous remains of
antiquity in
Egypt, to Gánn, Ibn-Gánn, and his
servants, the ginn; conceiving
it impossible that they could have been
raised by human hands.
The term 'efreet is commonly applied rather to an evil ginnee
than any other
being; but the ghosts of dead persons are also
called by this name; and
many absurd stories are related of
them; and great are the fears which they
inspire. There are
some persons, however, who hold them in no degree of
dread.—
I had once a humorous cook, who was somewhat addicted to
the
intoxicating hasheesh: soon after he had entered my service, I
heard him, one evening, muttering and exclaiming on the stairs,
as if in
surprise at some event; and then politely saying, “But
why are
you sitting here in the draught?—Do me the favour to
come up
into the kitchen, and amuse me with your conversation
a little.”
The civil address, not being answered, was repeated
and varied several
times; till I called out to the man, and asked
him to whom he was speaking.
“The 'efreet of a Turkish
soldier,” he replied,
“is sitting on the stairs, smoking his pipe,
and refuses to
move: he came up from the well below: pray step
and see him.” On
my going to the stairs, and telling the servant
that I could see nothing,
he only remarked that it was because I
had a clear conscience. He was told,
afterwards, that the house
had long been haunted; but asserted that he had
not been
previously informed of the supposed cause; which was the fact
of
a Turkish solider having been murdered there. My cook professed
to
see this 'efreet frequently after.
The existence of “Ghools” likewise obtains almost
universal
credence among the modern Egyptians, in common with several
other Eastern nations. These beings are generally believed to
be a class of
evil ginnees, and are said to appear in the forms of

various animals, and in many
monstrous shapes; to haunt burial-grounds,
and other sequestered spots; to
feed upon dead bodies;
and to kill and devour every human creature who has
the misfortune
to fall in their way. Hence, the term
“ghool” is applied,
in general, to any cannibal.
That fancies such as these should exist in the minds of a people
so ignorant
as those who are the subject of these pages cannot
reasonably excite our
surprise. But the Egyptians pay a superstitious
reverence not to imaginary
beings alone: they extend it to
certain individuals of their own species;
and often to those who
are justly the least entitled to such respect.
1 An
idiot or a
fool is
vulgarly regarded by
them as a being whose mind is in heaven,
while his grosser part mingles
among ordinary mortals; consequently,
he is considered an especial
favourite of heaven. Whatever
enormities a reputed saint may commit (and
there are many
who are constantly infringing precepts of their religion),
such acts
do not affect his fame for sanctity: for they are considered as
the
results of the abstraction of his mind from worldly things; his
soul, or reasoning faculties, being wholly absorbed in devotion; so
that
his passions are left without control. Lunatics who are
dangerous to
society are kept in confinement; but those who are
harmless are generally
regarded as saints. Most of the reputed
saints of Egypt are either
lunatics, or idiots, or impostors. Some
of them go about perfectly naked,
and are so highly venerated,
that the women, instead of avoiding them,
sometimes suffer these
wretches to take any liberty with them in the public
street; and,
by the lower orders, are not considered as disgraced by
such
actions, which, however, are of very rare occurrence. Others are
seen clad in a cloak or long coat composed of patches of various
coloured
cloths, which is called a “dilk,”
2 adorned with numerous
strings of
beads, wearing a ragged turban, and bearing a staff with
shreds of cloth of
various colours attached to the top. Some of
them eat straw, or a mixture
of chopped straw and broken glass;
and attract observation by a variety of
absurd actions. During
my first visit to this country, I often met, in the
streets of
Cairo,
a deformed man, almost naked, with long matted hair, and
riding
upon an ass, led by another man. On these occasions, he always
stopped his beast directly before me, so as to intercept my way,
recited
the Fát'hah (or opening chapter of the Kur-án), and then
1 As is the case also in Switzerland.
2 Also (and, I believe, more properly) written
“dalik,” but commonly
pronounced as above.

held out his hand for an alms. The
first time that he thus crossed
me, I endeavoured to avoid him; but a
person passing by remonstrated
with me, observing that the man before me
was a
saint, and that I ought to respect him, and comply with his
demand, lest some misfortune should befall me. Men of this
class are
supported by alms, which they often receive without asking
for them. A
reputed saint is commonly called “sheykh,”
“murábit,” or “welee.” If
affected with lunacy or idiotcy, or of
weak intellect, he is also, and more
properly, termed “megzoob,”
or
“mesloob.” “Welee” is an appellation
correctly given only to
an eminent and very devout saint; and signifies
“a favourite of
heaven;” but it is so commonly
applied to real or pretended
idiots, that some wit has given it a new
interpretation, as equivalent
to “beleed,” which
means “a fool” or “simpleton;”
remarking
that these two terms are equivalent both in sense and in
the
numerical value of the letters composing them: for
“welee”
is written with the letters
“wä'w,” “lám,”
and “yé,” of which the
numerical values
are 6, 30, and 10, or, together, 46; and “beleed”
is
written with “bé”
“lám,” “yé,”
and “dál,” which are 2, 30,
10, and 4, or,
added together, 46. A simpleton is often jestingly
called a welee.
The Muslims of Egypt, in common with those of other countries,
entertain
very curious superstitions respecting the persons
whom they call welees. I
have often endeavoured to obtain information
on the most mysterious of
these superstitions; and have
generally been answered, “You are
meddling with the matters of
the ‘tareekah,”' or the
religious course of the darweeshes; but I
have been freely acquainted with
general opinions on these subjects,
and such are perhaps all that may be
required to be stated
in a work like the present: I shall, however, also
relate what I
have been told by learned persons, and by darweeshes, in
elucidation
of the popular belief.
In the first place, if a person were to express a doubt as to the
existence
of true welees, he would be branded with infidelity;
and the following
passage of the Kur-án would be adduced to
condemn him:
“Verily, on the favourites
1 of God no fear shall
come, nor shall they
grieve.”
2 This is considered as sufficient to
prove that there is a class of
persons distinguished above ordinary
human beings. The questions then
suggests itself, “Who, or of
what description are these
persons?” and we are answered,
“They are persons
wholly devoted to God, and possessed of
1 In the original,
“owliya,” plural of “welee.”

extraordinary faith; and, according
to their degree of faith, endowed
with the power of performing
miracles.”
1
1 A miracle performed by a welee is termed
“karámeh:” one performed
by a prophet,
“moagiz'eh.”
The most holy of the welees is termed the Kutb; or, according
to some
persons, there are two who have this title; and again,
according to others,
four. The term “kutb” signifies an
axis;
and hence is applied to a welee who rules over others: they
depending
upon him, and being subservient to him. For the same
reason
it is applied to temporal rulers, or any person of high
authority. The
opinion that there are
four kutbs, I am told, is a
vulgar error, originating from the frequent mention of “the four
kutbs,” by which expression are meant the founders of the four
most celebrated orders of darweeshes (the Rifá'eeyeh,
Kádireeyeh,
Ahmedeeyeh, and Baráhimeh); each of whom
is believed to have
been the kutb of his time. I have also generally been
told, that
the opinion of there being
two kutbs is a
vulgar error, founded
upon two names, “Kutb
el-Hakeekah” (or the Kutb of Truth),
and “Kutb
el-Ghós” (or the Kutb of Invocation for help), which
properly belong to but one person. The term “el-Kutb
el-Mutawellee”
is applied, by those who believe in but one kutb,
to
the one ruling at the present time; and by those who believe in
two, to the
acting kutb. The kutb who exercises a
superintendence
over all other welees (whether or not there be another
kutb
—for if there be, he is inferior to the former) has, under
his
authority, welees of different ranks, to perform different
offices;
“Nakeebs,” “Negeebs,”
“Bedeels,”
2 etc.; who are known only
to each other, and
perhaps to the rest of the welees, as holding
such offices.
2 In the plural forms,
“Nukaba,” “Angáb” or
“Nugaba,” and
“Abdál.”
The Kutb, it is said, is often seen, but not known as such;
and the same is
said of all who hold authority under him. He
always has a humble demeanour,
and mean dress; and mildly
reproves those whom he finds acting impiously;
particularly such
as have a false reputation for sanctity. Though he is
unknown to
the world, his favourite stations are well known; yet at
these
places he is seldom visible. It is asserted that he is almost
constantly
seated at Mekkeh, on the roof of the Kaabeh; and,
though
never seen there, is always heard at midnight to call
twice, “O
thou most merciful of those who show mercy!”
which cry is then
repeated from the mád'nehs of the temple, by
the
muëddins: but a respectable pilgrim, whom I have just

questioned upon this matter, has
confessed to me that he himself
has witnessed that this cry is made by a
regular minister of
the mosque; yet that few pilgrims know this: he
believes, however,
that the roof of the Kaabeh is the chief
“markaz” (or
station) of the Kutb. Another favourite
station of this revered
and unknown person is the gate of
Cairo called
Báb Zuweyleh,
which is at the southern extremity of that part of
the metropolis
which constituted the old city; though now in the heart of
the
town; for the capital has greatly increased towards the south, as
it has also towards the west. From its being a supposed station
of this
mysterious being, the Báb Zuweyleh is commonly called
“El-Mutawellee.”
1 One leaf of its great wooden door (which is
never shut), turned back against the eastern side of the interior
of the
gateway, conceals a small vacant space, which is said to be
the place of
the Kutb. Many persons, on passing by it, recite the
Fát'hah;
and some give alms to a beggar who is generally seated
there, and who is
regarded by the vulgar as one of the servants
of the Kutb. Numbers of
persons afflicted with head-ache drive
a nail into the door, to charm away
the pain; and many
sufferers from the tooth-ache extract a tooth, and
insert it in a
crevice of the door, or fix it in some other way, to insure
their
not being attacked again by the same malady. Some curious
individuals often try to peep behind the door, in the vain hope of
catching
a glimpse of the Kutb, should he happen to be there,
and not at the moment
invisible. He has also many other
stations, but of inferior celebrity, in
Cairo; as well as one at the
tomb of the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee, at
Tanta;
another at
El-Mahalleh (which, as well as
Tanta, is in the Delta); and
others in other places. He is believed to transport himself from
Mekkeh to
Cairo in an instant; and so also from any one place
to another. Though he
has a number of favourite stations, he
does not abide solely at these; but
wanders throughout the whole
world, among persons of every religion, whose
appearance, dress,
and language he assumes; and distributes to mankind,
chiefly
through the agency of the subordinate welees, evils and
blessings,
the awards of destiny. When a Kutb dies, he is immediately
succeeded in his office by another.
1 For “Báb
El-Mutawellee.”
Many of the Muslims say that Elijah, or Elias, whom the
vulgar confound with
El-Khidr,
2 was
the Kutb of his time; and

that he invests the successive
kutbs: for they acknowledge
that he has never died; asserting him to have
drunk of the
Fountain of Life. This particular in their superstitious
notions
respecting the kutbs, combined with some others which I have
before mentioned, is very curious when compared with what we
are told, in
the Bible, of Elijah, of his being transported from
place to place by the
spirit of God; of his investing Elisha with
his miraculous powers, and his
offices; and of the subjection of
the other prophets to him and to his
immediate successor.
1 Some
welees renounce the pleasures of the world, and the society
of
mankind; and, in a desert place, give themselves up to meditation
upon heaven, and prayer; depending upon Divine Providence
for their
support; but their retreat becomes known; and the
Arabs daily bring them
food. This, again, reminds us of the
history of Elijah: for, in the opinion
of some critics, we should
read, for the word
“ravens,” in the fourth and sixth verses of the
seventeenth chapter of the second book of Kings, “Arabs:”
“I
have commanded the
Arabs to feed
thee”—“And the
Arabs
brought him bread,” etc.
2 This mysterious person, according to the more
approved opinion of the
learned, was not a prophet, but a just man, or
saint, the Wezeer and counsellor
of the first Zu-l-Karneyn, who was a
universal conqueror, but an
equally doubtful personage, contemporary
with the ‘patriarch Ibráheem, or
Abraham.
El-Khidr is said to have drunk of the Fountain of Life, in consequence
of which he lives till the day of judgment, and to appear frequently to
Muslims in perplexity. He is generally clad in green garments; whence,
according to some, his name.
1 See 1 Kings xviii. 12, and 2 Kings ii.
9–16.
Certain welees are said to be commissioned by the Kutb to
perform offices
which, according to the accounts of my informants
here, are far from being
easy. These are termed “Asháb
ed-Darak,”
which is interpreted as signifying “watchmen,”
or
“overseers.” In illustration of their employments, the
following
anecdote was related to me a few days ago.—A devout
tradesman
in this city, who was ardently desirous of becoming a welee,
applied to a person who was generally believed to belong to this
holy
class, and implored the latter to assist him to obtain the
honour of an
interview with the Kutb. The applicant, after
having undergone a strict
examination as to his motives, was
desired to perform the ordinary ablution
(el-wudoó), very early
the next morning; then to repair to the
mosque of El-Mu-eiyad
(at an angle of which is the Báb Zuweyleh,
or El-Mutawellee,
before mentioned), and to lay hold of the first person
whom he
should see coming out of the great door of this mosque. He did
so. The first person who came out was an old, venerable-looking

man; but meanly clad; wearing a
brown woollen gown (or
zaaboot); and this proved to be the Kutb. The
candidate kissed
his hand, and entreated to be admitted among the
As-háb ed-Darak.
After much hesitation, the prayer was granted:
the Kutb
said, “Take charge of the district which consists of
the Darb el-Ahmar
1
and its immediate neighbourhood;” and immediately the
person thus addressed found himself to be a welee; and perceived
that he
was acquainted with things concealed from ordinary
mortals: for a welee is
said to be acquainted by God with all
secrets necessary for him to
know.—It is commonly said of a
welee, that he knows what is
secret, or not discoverable by the
senses; which seems plainly
contradictory to what we read in
several places in the
Kur-án,—that none knoweth what is secret
(or hidden
from the senses) but God: the Muslims, however, who
are seldom at a loss in
a discussion, argue that the passages above
alluded to, in the
Kur-án, imply the knowledge of secrets in an
unrestricted sense;
and that God imparts to welees such secrets
only as He thinks fit.
1 A street on the south of the Báb
Zuweyleh.
The welee above mentioned, as soon as he had entered upon
his office, walked
through his district; and seeing a man at a
shop with a jar full of boiled
beans before him, from which he was
about to serve his customers as usual,
took up a large piece of
stone, and with it broke the jar. The bean-seller
immediately
jumped up, seized hold of a palm stick that lay by his side,
and
gave the welee a severe beating; but the holy man complained
not;
nor did he utter a cry: as soon as he was allowed, he walked
away. When he
was gone, the bean-seller began to try if he could
gather up some of the
scattered contents of the jar. A portion of
the jar remained in its place;
and on looking into this, he saw a
venomous serpent in it, coiled round,
and dead. In horror at
what he had done, he exclaimed, “There is
no strength or power
but in God! I implore forgiveness of God, the Great!
What
have I done! This man is a welee; and has prevented my selling
what would have poisoned my customers.”—He looked at
every passenger all that day, in the hope of seeing again the
saint whom he
had thus injured, that he might implore his forgiveness;
but he saw him
not; for he was too much bruised to
be able to walk. On the following day,
however, with his limbs
still swollen from the blows he had received, the
welee limped
through his district, and broke a great jar of milk at a shop
not
far from that of the bean-seller; and the owner treated him

as the bean-seller had done the day
before; but while he was
beating him, some persons ran up, and stopped his
hand, informing
him that the person whom he was thus punishing was a
welee,
and relating to him the affair of the serpent that was found in
the
jar of beans. “Go, and look,” said they,
“in your jar of milk,
and you will find, at the bottom of it,
something either poisonous
or unclean.” He looked; and found, in
the remains of the jar,
a dead dog.—On the third day, the welee,
with the help of a staff,
hobbled painfully up the Darb el-Ahmar, and saw a
servant carrying,
upon his head, a supper-tray covered with dishes of
meat,
vegetables, and fruit, for a party who were going to take a
repast
in the country; whereupon he put his staff between the man's
legs, and overthrew him; and the contents of the dishes were
scattered in
the street. With a mouth full of curses, the servant
immediately began to
give the saint as severe a thrashing as he
himself expected to receive from
his disappointed master for this
accident; but several persons soon
collected around him; and
one of these bystanders observed a dog eat a part
of the contents
of one of the dishes, and, a moment after, fall down dead:
he
therefore instantly seized the hand of the servant and informed
him
of this circumstance, which proved that the man whom he
had been beating
was a welee. Every apology was made to the
injured saint, with many prayers
for his forgiveness: but he was
so disgusted with his new office, that he
implored God and the
Kutb to release him from it; and, in answer to his
solicitations,
his supernatural powers were withdrawn, and he returned to
his
shop, more contented than before.—This story is received as
true
by the people of
Cairo; and therefore I have inserted it: for,
in
treating of superstitions, we have more to do with opinions
than with
facts. I am not sure, indeed, that it is altogether false:
the supposed
saint might have employed persons to introduce the
dead serpent and dog
into the vessels which he broke. I am told
that many a person has obtained
the reputation of being a welee
by artifices of the kind just mentioned.
There have been many instances, in Egypt, of welees afflicting
themselves by
austerities similar to those which are often practised
by devotees in
India. At the present time there is living, in
Cairo,
a welee who has
placed an iron collar round his neck, and chained
himself to a wall of his
chamber; and it is said that he has been
in this state more than thirty
years: but some persons assert that
he has often been seen to cover himself
over with a blanket, as if
to sleep, and that the blanket has been removed
immediately

after, and nobody found beneath it!
Stories of this kind are
related and believed by persons who, in many
respects, are endowed
by good sense; and to laugh, or express discredit, on
hearing
them, would give great offence. I was lately told that a
certain
welee being beheaded, for a crime of which he was not guilty,
his head spoke after it was cut off;
1 and, of another decapitated
under similar
circumstances that his blood traced upon the
ground, in Arabic characters,
the following declaration of his
innocence—“I am a
welee of God; and have died a martyr.”
1 Like that of the Sage Doobán, whose
story is told in “The Thousand and
One
Nights.”
It is a very remarkable trait in the character of the people
of Egypt and
other countries of the East, that Muslims, Christians,
and Jews adopt each
other's superstitions, while they abhor
the more rational doctrines of each
other's faiths. In sickness,
the Muslim sometimes employs Christian and
Jewish priests to
pray for him: the Christians and Jews, in the same
predicament,
often called in Muslim saints for the like purpose. Many
Christians
are in the frequent habit of visiting certain Muslim saints
here;
kissing their hands; begging their prayers, counsels, or
prophecies;
and giving them money and other presents.
Though their prophet disclaimed the power of performing miracles,
the
Muslims attribute to him many; and several miracles
are still, they say,
constantly or occasionally performed for his
sake, as marks of the Divine
favour and honour. The pilgrims
who have visited El-Medeeneh relate that
there is seen every
night, a ray or column of faint light rising from the
cupola over
the grave of the Prophet to a considerable height, apparently
to
the clouds, or, as some say, to Paradise; but that the observer
loses sight of it when he approaches very near the tomb.
2 This
is one of the most
remarkable of the miracles which are related as
being still witnessed. On
my asking one of the most grave and
sensible of all my Muslim friends here,
who had been on a pilgrimage,
and visited El-Medeeneh, whether this
assertion were
true, he averred that it was; that he had seen it every
night of his
stay in that city; and he remarked that it was a most striking
and
impressive proof of God's favour and honour for “our lord
Mohammad.”
I did not presume to question the truth of what
he
asserted himself to have seen; nor to suggest that the great number
of lights kept burning every night in the mosque might produce
2 It is also said that similar phenomena, but
not so brilliant, distinguish some
other tombs at El-Medeeneh and
elsewhere.

this effect; but to judge whether
this might be the case, I
asked my friend to describe to me the
construction of the apartment
of the tomb, its cupola, etc. He replied that
he did not
enter it, nor the Kaabah at Mekkeh, partly from his being in
a
state of excessive nervous excitement (from his veneration for
those
holy buildings, but particularly for the former, which almost
affected him
with a kind of hysteric fit), and partly because, being
of the sect of the
Hanafees, he held it improper, after he should
have stepped upon such
sacred ground, ever again to run the risk
of defiling his feet by walking
barefooted: consequently, he would
have been obliged always to wear leather
socks, or mezz, within
his outer shoes; which, he said, he could not afford
to do. The
pilgrims also assert that, in approaching El-Medeeneh, from
the distance of three days' journey, or more, they always see a
flickering
lightning in the direction of the sacred city, which they
believe to
proceed from the Prophet's tomb. They say that however
they turn, they
always see this lightning in the direction of
El-Medeeneh. There is
something strikingly poetical in this and
in the former statement.
A superstitious veneration, and honours unauthorized by the
Kur-án or any of the Traditions, are paid by all sects of
Muslims,
excepting the Wahhábees, to deceased saints, even more
than to
those who are living; and more particularly by the Muslims of
Egypt.
1 Over the
graves of most of the more celebrated saints
are erected large and handsome
mosques; over that of a saint of
less note (one who, by a life of sanctity
or hypocrisy, has acquired
the reputation of being a welee, or devout
sheykh) is constructed
a small, square, white-washed building, crowned with
a cupola.
There is generally, directly over the vault in which the corpse
is
deposited, an oblong monument of stone or brick (called
“tarkeebeh”)
or wood (in which case it is called
“táboot”); and this
is usually covered
with silk or linen, with some words from the

Kur-án worked upon it,
and surrounded by a railing or screen, of
wood or bronze, called
“maksoorah.” Most of the sanctuaries of
saints in
Egypt are tombs; but there are several which only contain
some
inconsiderable relic of the person to whom they are
dedicated, and there
are a few which are mere cenotaphs. The
most sacred of all these
sanctuaries is the mosque of the Hasaneyn,
in which the head of the martyr
El-Hoseyn, the son of the Imám
'Alee, and grandson of the
Prophet, is said to be buried. Among
others but little inferior in
sanctity, are the mosques of the seyyideh
Zeyneb (daughter of the
Imán' Alee, and grand-daughter of the
Prophet), the seyyideh
Sekeeneh (daughter of the Imán El-Hoseyn),
the seyyideh Nefeeseh
(great grand-daughter of the Imám
El-Hasan), and the
Imám Esh-Sháfe'ee, already mentioned as the
author of
one of the four great Muslim sects, that to which most
of the people of
Cairo belong. The buildings above mentioned,
with the exception of the last
two, are within the metropolis; the
last but one is within a southern
suburb of
Cairo, and the last, in
the great southern cemetery.
1 Several superstitious customs, observed in the
performance of many ordinary
actions, result from their extravagant
respect for their prophet, and their
saints in general. For instance,
on lighting the lamp in the evening, more
particularly at a shop, it is
customary to say, “Commemorate Mohammad,
and forget not the
excellencies of 'Alee; the Fát'hah for the Prophet, and for
every welee;” and then to repeat the Fát'hah. It is
usual to say, on first
seeing the new moon, “O God, favour
our lord Mohammad! God make thee
a blessed moon (or month);”
and on looking at one's face in a glass, “O God,
favour our
lord Mohammad!” This ejaculation being used to counteract
the
influence of the evil eye, it seems as if an Arab feared the effect
even of his own
admiring look.
The Egyptians occasionally visit these and other sanctuaries of
their
saints, either merely with the view of paying honour to the
deceased, and
performing meritorious acts for the sake of these
venerated persons, which
they believe will call down a blessing
on themselves, or for the purpose of
urging some special petition,
as for the restoration of health, or for the
gift of offspring, etc.; in
the persuasion that the merits of the deceased
will insure a favourable
reception of the prayers which they offer up in
such consecrated
places. The generality of the Muslims regard their
deceased saints as intercessors with the Deity, and make votive
offerings
to them. The visitor, on arriving at the tomb, should
greet the deceased
with the salutation of peace, and should utter
the same salutation on
entering the burial-ground; but I believe
that few persons observe this
latter custom. In the former case,
the visitor should front the face of the
dead, and consequently
turn his back to the kibleh. He walks round the
maksoorah or
monument from left to right, and recites the
Fát'hah, inaudibly,
or in a very low voice, before its door, or
before each of its four
sides. Sometimes a longer chapter of the
Kur-án than the first
(or Fát'hah) is recited
afterwards, and sometimes a “khatmeh”
(or recitation
of the whole of the Kur-án) is performed on such
an occasion.
These acts of devotion are generally performed for
the sake of the saint,
though merit is likewise believed to reflect
upon the visitor who makes a
recitation. He usually says at the

close of this, “[Extol]
the perfection of thy Lord, the Lord of
Might, exempting Him from that
which they [that is, the unbelievers]
ascribe to Him” (namely,
the having a son, or a partaker
of his godhead); and adds, “And
peace be on the Apostles,
and praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures.
O God, I have
transferred the merit of what I have recited from the
excellent
Kur-án to the person to whom this place is
dedicated,” or—“to
the soul of this
welee.” Without such a declaration, or an intention
to the same
effect, the merit of the recital belongs solely
to the person who performs
it. After this recital, the visitor, if it
be his desire, offers up any
prayer for temporal or spiritual blessings,
generally using some such form
as this—“O God, I conjure
Thee by the Prophet, and by
him to whom this place is dedicated,
to grant me such and such
blessings;” or “My burdens be on
God and on thee, O
thou to whom this place is dedicated.” In
doing this, some
persons face any side of the maksoorah. It is
said to be more proper to
face the maksoorah and the kibleh;
but I believe that the same rule should
be observed in this case
as in the salutation. During the prayer the hands
are held as in
the private supplications after the ordinary prayers of
every day,
and afterwards they are drawn down the face. Many of the
visitors
kiss the threshold of the building, and the walls, windows,
maksoorah, etc. This, however, the more strict disapprove, asserting
it to
be an imitation of a custom of the Christians. The
rich, and persons in
easy circumstances, when they visit the tomb
of a saint, distribute money
or bread to the poor, and often give
money to one or more water-carriers to
distribute water to the
poor and thirsty, for the sake of the saint.
1 There are
particular
days of the week on which certain tombs are more generally
visited;
thus, the mosque of Hasaneyn is mostly visited by men on
Tuesday, and by women on Saturday; that of the seyyideh Zeyneb,
on
Wednesday; that of the Imám Esh-Sháfe'ee, on Friday.
On these occasions it is a common custom for the male visitors
to take with
them sprigs of myrtle. They place some of these on
the monument, or on the
floor within the maksoorah, and take
back the remainder, which they
distribute to their friends. The
poor sometimes place
“khoos” (or palm leaves), as most persons
do upon the
tombs of their friends and relations. The women of
Cairo, instead of the
myrtle or palm-leaves, often place roses,
flowers of the henna-tree,
jasmine, etc.
1 See the account of the water-carriers in Chap.
xiv.
At almost every village in Egypt is the tomb of some favourite

or patron saint, which is generally
visited on a particular day of
the week by many of the inhabitants, chiefly
women, some of
whom bring thither bread, which they leave there for poor
travellers,
or any other persons. Some also place small pieces of
money in these tombs. These gifts are offerings to the sheykh,
or given for
his sake. Another custom common among the
peasants is, to make votive
sacrifices at the tombs of their sheykhs.
For instance, a man makes a vow
(“nedr”) that if he recover
from a sickness, or
obtain a son, or any other specific object of
desire, he will give to a
certain sheykh (deceased), a goat, or a
lamb, or a sheep, etc. If he attain
his object, he sacrifices the
animal which he has vowed at the tomb of the
sheykh, and makes
a feast with its meat for any persons who may choose to
attend.
Having given the animal to the saint, he thus gives to the
latter
the merit of feeding the poor. Little kids are often vowed as
future sacrifices, and have the right ear slit, or are marked in some
other
way. It is not uncommon, too, without any definite view
but that of
obtaining general blessings, to make these vows; and
sometimes a peasant
vows that he will sacrifice, for the sake of a
saint, a calf which he
possesses, as soon as it is full grown and
fatted. It is let loose, by
consent of all his neighbours, to pasture
where it will, even in fields of
young wheat; and at last, after it
has been sacrificed, a public feast is
made with its meat. Many
a large bull is thus given away.
Almost every celebrated saint, deceased, is honoured by an
anniversary
birth-day festival, which is called “moolid,” or,
more
properly, “mólid.” On the occasions
of such festivals, many persons
visit the tomb, both as a duty and as a
supposed means of
obtaining a special blessing; fikees are hired to recite
the Kur-án,
for the sake of the saint; fakeers often perform
zikrs; and the
people living in the neighbourhood of the tomb hang lamps
before
their doors, and devote half the night to such pleasures as
those
of smoking, sipping coffee, and listening to story-tellers at
the
coffee-shops, or to the recitals of the Kur-án and the
zikrs. I have
now a cluster of lamps hanging before my door, in honour of
the
moolid of a sheykh who is buried near the house in which I am
living. Even the native Christians often hang up lamps on these
occasions.
The festivities often continue several days. The most
famous moolids
celebrated in
Cairo, next to that of the Prophet,
are those of the Hasaneyn
and the seyyideh Zeyneb, accounts of
which will be found in a subsequent
chapter on the periodical
public festivals, etc., of the people of Egypt.
Most of the Egyptians

not only expect a blessing to
follow their visiting the tomb
of a celebrated saint, but they also dread
that some misfortune
will befall them if they neglect this act. Thus, while
I am writing
these lines, an acquaintance of mine is suffering from an
illness
which he attributes to his having neglected, for the last two
years,
to attend the festivals of the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee, at
Tanta,
this being the period of one of these festivals. The tomb of
this
saint attracts almost as many visitors, at the periods of the
great
annual festivals, from the metropolis, and from various parts of
Lower Egypt, as Mekkeh does pilgrims from the whole of the
Muslim world.
Three moolids are celebrated in honour of him
every year—one,
about the tenth of the Coptic month of Toobeh
(17th or 18th of January);
the second, at or about the Vernal
Equinox;
1 and the third, or great moolid, about
a month after
the Summer Solstice (or about the middle of the Coptic month
of
Ebeeb), when the Nile has risen considerably, but the dams of the
canals are not yet cut. Each lasts one week and a day, beginning
on a
Friday, and ending on the afternoon of the next Friday; and
on each night
there is a display of fireworks. One week after each
of these, is
celebrated the moolid of the seyyid Ibráheem Ed-Dasookee,
at the
town of Dasook, on the east bank of the western
branch of the Nile. The
seyyid Ibráheem was a very famous
saint, next in rank to the
seyyid El-Bedawee. These moolids,
both of the seyyid El-Bedawee and of the
seyyid Ibráheem, are
great fairs, as well as religious
festivals. At the latter, most of
the visitors remain in their boats; and
some of the Saadeeyeh
darweeshes of Rasheed exhibit their feats with
serpents—some
carrying serpents with silver rings in their
mouths, to prevent their
biting; others partly devouring these reptiles
alive. The religious
ceremonies at both are merely zikrs,
2 and recitals of the
Kur-án.
—It is customary among the Muslims, as it was
among the Jews,
to rebuild, whitewash, and decorate the tombs of their
saints, and
occasionally to put a new covering over the tarkeebeh or
táboot;
and many of them do this from the same pharisaic motives
which
actuated the Jews.
3
1 Called the “Shems
el-Kebeereh.”
2 The “zikr” will be fully
described in another chapter, on the periodical
public festivals, etc.
3 See St. Matthew xxiii. 29.
“Darweeshes” are very numerous in Egypt; and some of
them
who confine themselves to religious exercises, and subsist by
alms,
are much respected in this country, particularly by the lower
orders. Various artifices are employed by persons of this class to

obtain the reputation of superior
sanctity, and of being endowed
with the power of performing miracles. Many
of them are regarded
as welees.
A direct descendant of Aboo-Bekr, the first Khaleefeh, having
the title of
“Esh-Sheykh el-Bekree,” and regarded as the
representative
of that prince, holds authority over all orders of
darweeshes
in Egypt. The present Sheykh el-Bekree, who is also
descended from the Prophet, is Nakeeb el-Ashráf, or chief of the
Shereefs.—I may here add that the second Khaleefeh, 'Omar, has
likewise his representative, who is the sheykh of the
'Enáneeyeh,
or Owlád' Enán, an order of
darweeshes so named from one of
their celebrated sheykhs,
Ibn-'Enán. 'Osmán has no representative,
having left
no issue. The representative of 'Alee is called
Sheykh
es-Sádát,
1 or Sheykh of the Seyyids, or Shereefs, a title
of
less importance than that of Nakeeb of the Shereefs. Each of
these
three sheykhs is termed the occupant of the
“seggádeh”
(or prayer carpet) of his great
ancestor. So also the sheykh of
an order of darweeshes is called the
occupant of the seggádeh of
the founder of the order.
2 The
seggádeh is considered as the
spiritual throne. There are four
great seggádehs of darweeshes
in Egypt, which are those of four
great orders about to be mentioned.
1 Often improperly called “esh-Sheykh
es-Sádát.”
2 The title is “sáheb
seggádeh.”
The most celebrated orders of darweeshes in Egypt are the
following:—
i. The
“Rifá'eeyeh” (in the singular
“Rifá'ee”).
This order was founded by the
seyyid Ahmad Rifá'ah El-Kebber.
Its banners and the turbans of
its members are black; or the
latter are of a very deep blue woollen stuff,
or muslin of a very
dark greenish hue. The Rifá'ee darweeshes
are celebrated for the
performance of many wonderful feats.
3 The
“'Ilwáneeyeh,” or
“Owlád 'Ilwán,” who are a sect of
the Rifá'ees, pretend to thrust
iron spikes into their eyes and
bodies without sustaining any injury;
and in appearance they do this, in
such a manner as to
deceive any person who can believe it possible for a
man to do
such things in reality. They also break large masses of stone
on
their chests, eat live coals, glass, etc.; and are said to pass
swords
completely through their bodies, and packing-needles through
both
their cheeks, without suffering any pain, or leaving any wound;
but such performances are now seldom witnessed. I am told that
3 In most of their juggling performances the
darweeshes of Egypt are
inferior to the most expert of the Indians.

it was a common practice for a
darweesh of this order to hollow
out a piece of the trunk of a palm-tree,
fill it with rags soaked with
oil and tar, then set fire to these contents,
and carry the burning
mass under his arm in a religious procession (wearing
only
drawers), the flames curling over his bare chest, back, and head,
and apparently doing him no injury. The “Saadeeyeh,” an
order
founded by the sheykh Saad-ed-Deen El-Gibáwee, are
another
and more celebrated sect of the Rifá'ees. Their banners
are
green, and their turbans of the same colour, or of the dark hue
of
the Rifá'ees in general. There are many darweeshes of this
order
who handle with impunity live, venomous serpents, and
scorpions, and partly
devour them. The serpents, however, they
render incapable of doing any
injury by extracting their venomous
fangs; and doubtless they also deprive
the scorpions of their
poison. On certain occasions (as, for instance, on
that of the
festival of the birth of the Prophet), the Sheykh of the
Saadeeyeh
rides on horseback over the bodies of a number of his
darweeshes
and other persons, who throw themselves on the ground for
the
purpose; and all assert that they are not injured by the tread of
the horse. This ceremony is called the “dóseh.”
Many Rifá'ee and
Saadee darweeshes obtain their livelihood by
going about to charm
away serpents from houses. Of the feats of these
modern Psylli,
an account will be given in another chapter. 2. The
“Kádireeyeh,”
an order founded by the
famous seyyid 'Abd-El-Kádir El-Geelánee.
Their
banners and turbans are white. Most of the
Kádireeyeh of Egypt
are fishermen; these, in religious processions,
carry upon poles nets of
various colours (green, yellow, red,
white, etc.), as the banners of their
order. 3. The “Ahmedeeyeh,”
or order of the seyyid
Ahmad El-Bedawee, whom I have
lately mentioned. This is a very numerous and
highly respected
order. Their banners and turbans are red. The
“Beiyoomeeyeh”
(founded by the seyyid 'Alee
El-Beiyoomee), the “Shaaráweeyeh”
(founded
by the sheykh Esh-Shaaráwee
1), the
“Shinnáweeyeh” (founded by the seyyid 'Alee
Esh-Shinnáwee),
and many other orders, are sects of the
Ahmedeeyeh. The
Shinnáweeyeh train an
ass
to perform a strange part in the ceremonies
of the last day of the moolid
of their great patron saint,
the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee, at
Tanta. The
ass, of its own
accord, enters the mosque of the seyyid, proceeds to the
tomb,
and there stands, while multitudes crowd around it, and each
person
who can approach near enough to it plucks off some of its
1 Thus commonly pronounced, for
Esh-Shaaránee.

hair, to use as a charm, until the
skin of the poor beast is as bare
as the palm of a man's hand. There is
another sect of the
Ahmedeeyeh, called “Owlád
Nooh,” all young men, who wear
“tartoors”
(or high caps), with a tuft of pieces of various coloured
cloth on the top,
wooden swords, and numerous strings of beads,
and carry a kind of whip
(called “firkilleh”), a thick twist of
cords. 4. The
“Baráhimeh,” or
“Burhámeeyeh,” the order of
the seyyid
Ibráheem Ed-Dasookee, whose moolid has been mentioned
above.
Their banners and turbans are green. There are
many other classes of
darweeshes, some of whom are sects of one
or other of the above orders.
Among the more celebrated of
them are the
“Hefnáweeyeh,” the
“'Afeefeeyeh,” the
“Demirdásheeyeh,”
the
“Nakshibendeeyeh,” the “Bekreeyeh,”
and the
“Leyseeyeh.”
It is impossible to become acquainted with all the tenets, rules,
and
ceremonies of the darweeshes, as many of them, like those of
the
freemasons, are not to be divulged to the uninitiated. A darweesh
with whom
I am acquainted thus described to me his taking
the
“'ahd,” or initiatory covenant, which is nearly the same
in all
the orders. He was admitted by the sheykh of the
Demirdásheeyeh.
Having first performed the ablution preparatory
to
prayer (the wudoó), he seated himself upon the ground before
the
sheykh, who was seated in like manner. The sheykh and he (the
“mureed,” or candidate) then clasped their right hands
together
in the manner which I have described as practised in making
the
marriage-contract: in this attitude, and with their hands covered
by the sleeve of the sheykh, the candidate took the covenant; repeating
after the sheykh, the following words, commencing with
the form of a common
oath of repentance. “I beg forgiveness of
God, the
Great” (three times); “than whom there is no other
deity; the Living, the Everlasting: I turn to Him with repentance,
and beg
his grace, and forgiveness, and exemption from the fire.”
The
sheykh then said to him, “Dost thou turn to God with
repentance?”
He replied, “I do turn to God with
repentance;
and I return unto God; and I am grieved for what I have
done
[amiss], and I determine not to relapse”—and
then repeated,
after the sheykh, “I beg for the favour of God,
the Great, and the
noble Prophet; and I take as my sheykh, and my guide
unto God
(whose name be exalted), my master ‘Abd Er-Raheem
Ed-Demirdáshee
El-Khalwet'ee
Er-Rifá'ee En-Nebawee;
not to change,
nor to separate; and God is our witness: by God, the
Great!”
(this oath was repeated three times): “there
is no deity but God”

(this also was repeated three
times). The sheykh and the mureed
then recited the Fát'hah
together, and the latter concluded the
ceremony by kissing the sheykh's
hand.
The religious exercises of the darweeshes chiefly consist in the
performance
of “zikrs.” Sometimes standing in the form of a
circular
or oblong ring, or in two rows, facing each other, and
sometimes
sitting, they exclaim, or chant,
“Láiláha illa-lláh”
(There is no
deity but God), or “Alláh!
Alláh! Alláh!” (God! God! God!),
or repeat
other invocations, etc., over and over again, until their
strength is
almost exhausted; accompanying their ejaculations or
chants with a motion
of the head, or of the whole body, or of the
arms. From long habit they are
able to continue these exercises
for a surprising length of time without
intermission. They are
often accompanied, at intervals, by one or more
players upon a
kind of flute called a
“náy,” or a double reed-pipe, called
“arghool,” and by persons singing religious odes; and
some
darweeshes use a little drum, called
“báz,” or a tambourine,
during their
zikrs: some, also, perform a peculiar dance; the
description of which, as
well as of several different zikrs, I reserve
for future chapters.
Some of the rites of darweeshes (as forms of prayer, modes of
zikr, etc.),
are observed only by particular orders: others, by
members of various
orders. Among the latter may be mentioned
the rites of the
“Khalwet'ees” and
“Sházilees”; two great
classes, each of
which has its sheykh. The chief difference
between these is that each has
its particular form of prayer to repeat
every morning; and that the former
distinguish themselves
by occasional seclusion; whence their appellation of
“Khalwet'ees
1:”
the prayer of this class is repeated before
daybreak;
and is called “wird es-sahar:” that of the
Sházilees, which is
called “hezb
esh-Sházilee,” after day-break. Sometimes, a
Khalwet'ee
enters a solitary cell, and remains in it forty days and
nights, fasting from day-break till sunset the whole of this period.
Sometimes also a number of the same class confine themselves,
each in a
separate cell, in the sepulchral mosque of the sheykh
Ed-Demirdáshee, on the north of
Cairo, and remain there three
days and nights, on the occasion of the moolid of that saint, and
only eat
a little rice, and drink a cup of sherbet, in the evening:
they employ
themselves in repeating certain forms of prayer, etc.
not imparted to the
uninitiated; only coming out of their cells to
unite in the five daily
prayers in the mosque; and never answering
1 From “khalweh,” a cell,
or closet.

any one who speaks to them but by
saying, “There is no
deity but God.” Those who
observe the forty days' fast, and
seclude themselves during that long
period, practise nearly the
same rules; and employ their time in repeating
the testimony of
the faith, imploring forgiveness, praising God, etc.
Almost all the darweeshes of Egypt are tradesmen or artisans
or
agriculturists; and only occasionally assist in the rites and
ceremonies of
their respective orders: but there are some who
have no other occupations
than those of performing zikrs at the
festivals of saints and at private
entertainments, and of chanting
in funeral processions. These are termed
“fukara,” or “fakeers”;
which
is an appellation given also to the poor in general, but
especially to poor
devotees. Some obtain their livelihood as
water-carriers, by supplying the
passengers in the streets of
Cairo,
and the visitors at religious
festivals, with water, which they carry
in an earthen vessel, or a goat's
skin on the back. A few lead a
wandering life, and subsist on alms; which
they often demand
with great importunacy and effrontery. Some of these
distinguish
themselves in the same manner as certain reputed saints
before
mentioned, by the “dilk,” or coat of patches,
and the staff with
shreds of cloth of different colours attached to the
top: others
wear fantastic dresses of various descriptions.
Some Rifá'ee darweeshes (besides those who follow the occupation
of charming away serpents from houses) pursue a wandering
life; travelling
about Egypt, and profiting by a ridiculous superstition
which I must here
mention. A venerated saint called See
1
Dá-ood El-'Azab (or Master David the Bachelor), who lived
at
Tefáhineh, a village in
Lower Egypt, had a calf, which
always
attended him, brought him water, etc. Since his death, some
Rifá'ee darweeshes have been in the habit of rearing a number
of
calves at his native place, or burial place, above named;
teaching them to
walk upstairs, to lie down at command, etc.;
and then going about the
country, each with his calf, to
obtain alms. The calf is called
“'Egl El-'Azab” (the Calf of
El-'Azab,
or,—of the Bachelor). I once called into my house
one of these
darweeshes, with his calf, the only one I have seen:
it was a buffalo calf;
and had two bells suspended to it; one
attached to a collar round his neck,
and the other to a girth round
its body. It walked up the stairs very well;
but showed that it
had not been very well trained in every respect. The
‘Egl El-'Azab
1 “See” is a vulgar
contraction of “Seedee,” which is itself a
contraction
of “Seyyidee,” signifying
“My Master,” or “Mister.”

is vulgarly believed to bring into
the house a blessing from
the saint after whom it is called.
There are numerous wandering Turkish and Persian darweeshes
in Egypt; and to
these, more than to the few Egyptian darweeshes
who lead a similar life,
must the character for impudence and
importunacy be ascribed. Very often,
particularly in Ramadán,
a foreign darweesh goes to the mosque
of the Hasaneyn, which is
that most frequented by the Turks and Persians,
at the time of the
Friday-prayers; and, when the Khateeb is reciting the
first khutbeh
passes between the ranks of persons who are sitting upon
the
floor, and places before each a little slip of paper upon which
are
written a few words, generally exhortative to charity (as
“He who
giveth alms will be provided
for”—“The poor darweesh asketh
an
alms,” etc.); by which proceeding he usually obtains from each,
or almost every person, a piece of five or ten faddahs, or more.
Many of
the Persian darweeshes in Egypt carry an oblong bowl
of cocoa-nut or wood
or metal, in which they receive their alms,
and put their food; and a
wooden spoon; and most of the foreign
darweeshes wear dresses peculiar to
their respective orders: they
are chiefly distinguished by the cap: the
most common description
of cap is of a sugar-loaf, or conical shape, and
made of felt: the
other articles of dress are generally a vest and full
drawers, or
trousers, or a shirt and belt, and a coarse cloak, or long
coat.
The Persians here all affect to be Sunnees. The Turks are the
more intrusive of the two classes.
Here I may mention another superstition of the Egyptians, and
of the Arabs
in general; namely, their belief that birds and beasts
have a language by
which they communicate their thoughts to
each other, and celebrate the
praises of God.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XI.
SUPERSTITIONS—continued.
ONE of the most remarkable traits in modern Egyptian superstition is the belief
in written charms. The composition of most
of these amulets is founded upon
magic; and occasionally employs
the pen of almost every village
schoolmaster in Egypt. A
person of this profession, however, seldom pursues
the study of

magic further than to acquire the
formulae of a few charms, most
commonly consisting, for the greater part,
of certain passages of the
Kur-án, and names of God, together
with those of angels, genii,
prophets, or eminent saints, intermixed with
combinations of
numerals, and with diagrams, all of which are supposed to
have
great secret virtues.
The most esteemed of all “hegábs” (or charms) is
a “mushaf”
(or copy of the Kur-án). It
used to be the general custom
of the Turks of the middle and higher orders,
and of many other
Muslims, to wear a small mus-haf in an embroidered
leather
or velvet case hung upon the right side by a silk string which
passed over the left shoulder: but this custom is not now very
common.
During my former visit to this country, a respectable
Turk, in the military
dress, was seldom seen without a case of this
description upon his side,
though it often contained no hegáb.
The mus-haf and other
hegábs are still worn by many women;
generally enclosed in cases
of gold, or of gilt or plain silver. To
the former, and to many other
charms, most extensive efficacy is
attributed; they are esteemed
preservatives against disease, enchantment,
the evil eye, and a variety of
other evils. The charm
next in point of estimation to the mus-haf is a book
or scroll containing
certain chapters of the Kur-án; as the 6th,
18th, 36th,
44th, 55th, 67th and 78th; or some others; generally
seven.—
Another charm, which is believed to protect the wearer
(who
usually places it within his cap) from the devil and all evil
genii,
and many other objects of fear, is a piece of paper inscribed
with
the following passages from the Kur-án.
1 “And the
preservation
of both [heaven and earth] is no burden unto Him. He is the
High, the
Great” (chap. ii. ver. 256). “But God is the best
protector; and He is the most merciful of those who show
mercy”
(chap. xii., ver. 64). “They
watch him by the command of God”
(chap. xiii., ver.
12). “And we
guard them from every devil
driven away with stones” (chap. xv., ver. 17). “And a
guard
against every rebellious devil” (chap. xxxvii., ver. 7).
“And a
guard. This is the decree of the Mighty, the
Wise” (chap. lxi.,
ver. 11). “And God encompasseth
them behind. Verily it is
a glorious Kur-án, [written] on a
preserved tablet” (chap. lxxxv.,
ver. 20,
21, 22).—The ninety-nine names, or epithets, of God,
comprising
all the divine attributes, if frequently repeated, and
written on a paper,
and worn on the person, are supposed to make
the wearer a particular object
for the exercise of all the beneficent
1 Called
“áyát-el-hefz” (the verses of
protection, or preservation).

attributes.—In like
manner it is believed that the ninety-nine
names, or titles, etc., of the
Prophet, written upon anything,
compose a charm which (according to his own
assertion, as
recorded by his cousin and son-in-law the Imám
'Alee) will, if
placed in a house, and frequently read from beginning to
end,
keep away every misfortune, pestilence and all diseases,
infirmity,
the envious eye, enchantment, burning, ruin, anxiety, grief,
and
trouble. After repeating each of these names, the Muslim adds,
“God favour and preserve him!”
1—Similar virtues are
ascribed
to a charm composed of the names of the
“As-háb el-Kahf” (or
Companions of the
Cave, also called the Seven Sleepers), together
with the name of their
dog.
2 These names
are sometimes
engraved in the bottom of a drinking-cup, and more commonly
on
the round tray of tinned copper which, placed on a stool, forms
the
table for dinner, supper, etc.—Another charm, supposed to
have
similar efficacy, is composed of the names of those
paltry articles of
property which the Prophet left at his decease.
These relics
3were two
“sebhahs” (or rosaries), his
“mus-haf” (in
unarranged fragments), his
“muk-hul'ah” or the vessel in which
he kept the black
powder with which he painted the edges of his
eyelids), two
“seggádehs” (or prayer carpets), a hand-mill,
a
staff, a tooth-stick, a suit of clothes,
4 the ewer which he used in
ablution,
a pair of sandals, a “burdeh” (or a kind of woollen
covering),
5 three
mats, a coat of mail, a long woollen coat, his
1 Just before I quitted my house in Cairo to
return to England, a friend,
who had been my sheykh (or tutor), wrote
on a slip of paper, “There is no
deity but God: Mohammad is
God's apostle:” then tore it in halves, gave
me the latter
half (on which was written “Mohammad is God's
apostle”),
and concealed the other in a crack in the roof of
a little cupboard in my usual
sitting-room. This was to insure my
coming back to Cairo: for it is believed
that the profession of the
faith cannot remain incomplete: so that by my keeping
the latter half
always upon my person, it would bring me back to the
former half.
2 These, it is said, were Christian youths of
Ephesus, who took refuge
from the persecution of the emperor Decius in
a cave, and slept there, guarded
by their dog, for the space of 300
[solar] or 309 [lunar] years. (See the Kur-án,
chap. xviii.)
3 Called “mukhallafát
en-nebee.”
4 A shirt which is said to have been worn by the
Prophet is preserved in the
mosque of El-Ghóree, in Cairo.
It is wrapped in a Kashmeer shawl; and not
shown to any but persons of
very high rank.
5 The “burdeh,” which is
worn by some of the peasants in Egypt, is an
oblong piece of thick
woollen stuff, resembling the “herám,”
excepting in
colour, being generally brown or greyish. It appears to
have been, in earlier
times, always striped; but some modern burdehs
are plain, and others have
stripes so narrow and near together, that at
a little distance the stuff appears to
be of one colour. The Prophet's
is described as about seven feet and a half in
length, and four and a
half in width. It was used by him, as burdehs are at
present, both to
envelop the body by day, and as a night-covering—I may be
excused for remarking here (as it seems to be unknown to some Arabic
scholars) that the terms “akhdar” and
“ahmar,” which are applied by
different
historians to the Prophet's burdeh, are used to signify respectively grey
and brown, as well as green and red.

white mule
“ed-duldul,” and his she-camel
“el-'adba.”—Certain
verses of the
Kur-án are also written upon slips of paper, and worn
upon the
person as safeguards against various evils, and to procure
restoration to
health, love and friendship, food etc. These and
other charms, enclosed in
cases of gold, silver, tin, leather, or silk,
etc., are worn by many of the
modern Egyptians, men, women,
and children.
It is very common to see children in this country with a charm
against the
evil eye,
1 enclosed in a case,
generally of a triangular
form, attached to the top of the cap; and horses
often have
similar appendages. The Egyptians take many precautions
against the evil eye; and anxiously endeavour to avert its
imagined
consequences. When a person expresses what is considered
improper or
envious admiration of anything, he is generally
reproved by the individual
whom he has thus alarmed, who says
to him, “Bless the
Prophet!” and if the envier obeys, saying,
“O God,
favour him!” no ill effects are apprehended. It is considered
very improper for a person to express his admiration of
another, or of any
object which is not his own property, by
saying, “God preserve
us!”
2
“How pretty!” or, “Very
pretty!”
The most approved expression in such cases is
“Má sháa-lláh!”
(or
“What God willeth [cometh to pass!”]); which implies
both
admiration and submission to, or approval of, the will of God. A
person who has exclaimed “How pretty!” or used similar
words,
is often desired to say, rather, “Ma
sháa-lláh!” as well as to
bless the
Prophet. In the second chapter of this work a remarkable
illustration has
been given of the fear which mothers in Egypt
entertain of the effect of
the evil eye upon their children. It
is the custom in this country, when a
person takes the child of
another into his arms, to say, “In the
name of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful!” and,
“O God, favour our lord Mohammad!”
and then to add,
“Má sháa-lláh!” It is
also a common
1 This superstition explains many customs which
would otherwise seem unaccountable.
2 The ejaculation which I thus translate is
“Yá selán,” or
“Yá selámu
sellim,”
“Es-Selám” is one of the names of the
Deity.

custom of the people of Egypt, when
admiring a child, to say, “I
seek refuge with the Lord of the
Day-break for thee!” alluding to
the Chapter of the Day-break
(the 113th chapter of the Kur-án);
in the end of which,
protection is implored against the mischief
of the envious. The parents,
when they see a person stare at,
or seem to envy their young offspring,
sometimes cut off a piece of
the skirts of his clothes, burn it with a
little salt (to which some
add coriander-seed, alum, etc.), and fumigate
with the smoke, and
sprinkle with the ashes, the child or children. This,
it is said,
should be done a little before sunset, when the sun becomes
red.
Alum is very generally used, in the following manner, by the
people of
Egypt, to counteract the effects of the evil eye. A piece of
about the size
of a walnut is placed upon burning coals, and left
until it has ceased to
bubble. This should be done a short time
before sunset; and the person who
performs the operation should
repeat three times, while the alum is
burning, the first chapter of the
Kur-án, and the last three
chapters of the same; all of which are
very short. On taking the alum off
the fire, it will be found (we
are told) to have assumed the form of the
person whose envy or
malice has given occasion for this process: it is then
to be
pounded, put into some food, and given to a black dog to be
eaten. I have once seen this done, by a man who suspected his
wife of
having looked upon him with an evil eye; and in this case,
the alum did
assume a form much resembling that of a woman, in
what the man declared was
a peculiar posture in which his wife
was accustomed to sit. But the shape
which the alum takes
depends almost entirely on the disposition of the
coals; and can
hardly be such that the imagination may not see in it some
resemblance
to a human being.—Another supposed mode of
obviating
the effects of the envious eye is, to prick a paper with a
needle,
saying, at the same time, “This is the eye of such a
one, the
envier;” and then to burn the paper.—Alum is
esteemed a very
efficacious charm against the evil eye: sometimes, a small,
flat
piece of it, ornamented with tassels, is hung to the top of a
child's
cap. A tassel of little shells and beads is also used in the
same
manner, and for the same purpose. The small shells called
cowries
are especially considered preservatives against the evil eye;
and hence, as
well as for the sake of ornament, they are often
attached to the trappings
of camels, horses and other animals,
and sometimes to the caps of children.
Such appendages are
evidently meant to attract the eye to themselves, and
so to prevent
observation and envy of the object which they are designed
to
protect.

To counteract the effects of the evil eye, many persons in
Egypt, but mostly
women, make use of what is called “mey'ah
mubárakah” (or blessed storax), which is a mixture of
various ingredients
that will be mentioned below, prepared and sold
only
during the first ten days of the month of Moharram. During this
period we often see, in the streets of
Cairo, men carrying about
this
mixture of mey'ah, etc., for sale, and generally crying some
such words as
the following:— “Mey'ah mubárakah! A new
year and blessed 'A'shoora!
1 The most blessed of years [may
this be] to the believers!
Yá mey'ah mubárakah!” The man
who sells it
bears upon his head a round tray, covered with different
coloured sheets of
paper—red, yellow, etc., upon which is
placed the valuable
mixture. In the middle is a large heap of
“tifl” (or
refuse) of a dark reddish material for dyeing, mixed
with a little
“mey'ah” (or storax), coriander seed, and seed of
the
fennel-flower: round this large heap are smaller heaps: one
consisting of
salt dyed blue with indigo; another, of salt dyed red;
a third, of salt
dyed blue with indigo; another, “sheeh” (a kind of
wormwood); a fifth, of dust of “libán” (or
frankincense). These
are all the ingredients of the “mey'ah
mubárakah.” The seller
is generally called into the
house of the purchaser. Having
placed his tray before him, and received a
plate, or a piece of
paper, in which to put the quantity to be purchased,
he takes a
little from one heap, then from another, then from a third, and
so
on, until he has taken some from each heap; after which, again
and
again, he takes an additional quantity from each kind. While
he does this,
he chants a long spell, generally commencing thus:
—“In the name of God! and by God! There is no
conqueror
that conquereth God, the Lord of the East and the West: we
are
all His servants: we must acknowledge His unity: His unity is
an
illustrious attribute.” After some words on the virtues of salt,
he proceeds to say:—“I charm thee from the eye of girl,
sharper
than a spike; and from the eye of woman, sharper than a
pruning-knife;
and from the eye of boy, more painful than a whip;
and
from the eye of man, sharper than a chopping-knife;” and so
on.
Then he relates how Solomon deprived the evil eye of its
influence; and
afterwards enumerates every article of property
that the house is likely to
contain, and that the person who purchases
his wonderful mixture may be
conjectured to possess; all
of which he charms against the influence of the
eye. Many of
the expressions which he employs in this spell are very
ridiculous,
1 This is the name of the tenth day of Moharram.

words being introduced merely for
the sake of rhyme. The mey'ah
mubárakah, a handful of which may
be purchased for five faddahs,
1
is treasured up by the purchaser during the ensuing year; and
whenever it is feared that a child or other person is affected by
the evil
eye, a little of it is thrown upon some burning coals in a
chafing-dish;
and the smoke which results is generally made to
ascend upon the supposed
sufferer.
1 Now equivalent to a farthing and
one-fifth.
It is a custom among the higher and middle classes in
Cairo,
on the occasion
of a marriage, to hang chandeliers in the street
before the bridegroom's
house; and it often happens that a crowd
is collected to see a very large
and handsome chandelier suspended:
in this case it is common practice to
divert the attention
of the spectators by throwing down and breaking a
large jar,
or by some other artifice, lest an envious eye should cause
the
chandelier to fall. Accidents which confirm the Egyptians in
their
superstitions respecting the evil eye often occur: for instance,
a friend
of mine has just related to me that, a short time ago, he
saw a camel
carrying two very large jars of oil; a woman stopped
before it, and
exclaimed, “God preserve us! What large jars!”
The
conductor of the camel did not tell her to bless the Prophet;
and the
camel, a few minutes after, fell, and broke both the jars
and one of its
own legs.
While writing these notes on modern Egyptian superstitions, I
have been
amused by a complaint one of my Masree
2 friends,
which will serve to illustrate what I
have just stated. “The
Básha,” he said,
“having, a few days ago, given up his monopoly
of the meat, the
butchers now slaughter for their own shops; and
it is quite shocking to see
fine sheep hung up in the streets, quite
whole, tail
3 and all, before the public eye, so
that every beggar
who passes by envies them; and one might, therefore, as
well eat
poison as such meat.” My cook has made the same
complaint
to me; and, rather than purchase from one of the shops near
at
hand, takes the trouble of going to one in a distant quarter, kept
by a man who conceals his meat from the view of the passengers
in the
street.
3 The fat of the tail is esteemed a
dainty.
Many of the tradesmen of the metropolis, and of other towns
of Egypt, place
over their shops (generally upon the hanging
shutter which is turned up in
front) a paper inscribed with the
name of God, or that of the Prophet, or
both, or the profession
of the faith (“There is no deity but
God: Mohammad is God's

Apostle”), the words,
“In the name of God, the Compassionate,
the
Merciful,” or some maxim of the Prophet, or a verse of the
Kur-án (as, “Verily we have granted thee a manifest
victory”
[ch. xlviii., ver. 1], and “Assistance from
God, and a speedy victory;
and do thou bear good tidings to the
believers” [ch. lxi.,
ver. 13]), or an invocation to the Deity,
such as, “O Thou Opener
[of the doors of prosperity, or
subsistence]! O Thou Wise! O
Thou Supplier of our wants! O Thou
Bountiful!” This invocation
is often pronounced by the tradesman
when he first opens
his shop in the morning, and by the pedestrian vendor
of small
commodities, bread, vegetables, etc., when he sets out on his
daily rounds. It is a custom also among the lower orders to put
the first
piece of money that they receive in the day to the lips
and forehead before
putting it in the pocket.
Besides the inscriptions over shops, we often see in
Cairo the
invocation,
“O God!” sculptured over the door of a private
house,
and the words “The Excellent Creator is the
Everlasting,”
or, “He is the Excellent Creator, the
Everlasting,” painted in
large characters upon the door, both as
a charm, and to remind
the master of the house, whenever he enters it, of
his own mortality.
1
These words are often inscribed upon the door of a
house when its
former master, and many or all of its former inhabitants,
have been removed
by death.
1 See the engraving of a door with this
inscription inserted in the introduction,
p. 6.
The most approved mode of charming away sickness or disease
is to write
certain passages of the Kur-án
2 on the inner surface of
an earthenware cup or
bowl; then to pour in some water, and stir
it until the writing is quite
washed off; when the water, with the
sacred words thus infused in it, is to
be drunk by the patient.
These words are as follow: “And He will
heal the breasts of the
people who
believe” (chap. ix., ver. 14). “O men, now hath an
admonition come unto you from your Lord, and a
remedy for
what
is in your breasts” (chap. x., ver. 58).
“Wherein is a
remedy
for men” (chap. xvi., ver. 71). “We send down, of
the Kur-án,
that which is a
remedy and
mercy to the believers” (chap. xvii.,
ver. 84). “And
when I am sick He
healeth me” (chap.
xxii.,
ver. 80). “Say, It is, to those who believe, a guide and a
remedy” (chap. xli., ver. 44). Four of these
verses, notwithstanding
they are thus used, refer, not to diseases of the
body, but of the
mind;” and another (the third) alludes to the
virtues of
honey!
On my applying to my sheykh (or
tutor) to point out to me in
2 Called “áyát
esh-shifë” (the verses of restoration).

what chapters these verses were to
be found, he begged me not
to translate them into my own language, because
the translation
of the Kur-án, unaccompanied by the original
text, is prohibited:
not that he seemed ashamed of the practice of
employing these
words as a charm, and did not wish my countrymen to be
informed
of the custom: for he expressed his full belief in their
efficacy, even in the case of an infidel patient, provided he had
proper
confidence in their virtue. “Seeing,” he observed,
“that
the Prophet (God favour and preserve him!) has said,
‘If thou
confide in God, with true confidence, He will sustain
thee as He
sustaineth the birds.”' I silenced his scruples on
the subject of
translating these verses by telling him that we had an
English
translation of the whole of the Kur-án. Sometimes, for
the cure
of diseases, and to counteract poisons, etc., a draught of
water
from a metal cup, having certain passages of the Kur-án
and
talismanic characters and figures engraved in the interior, is
administered
to the patient. I have a cup of this description, lately
given to me
1 here
(in
Cairo), much admired by my Muslim acquaintances.
On the exterior is an
inscription enumerating its
virtues: it is said to possess charms that will
counteract all
poisons, etc., and the evil eye, and cure “all
sicknesses and
diseases, excepting the sickness of death.” I
have seen here
another cup which appeared to have been exactly similar to
that
above mentioned, but its inscriptions were partly effaced. The
secret virtues of the Kur-án are believed to be very numerous.
One day, on my refusing to eat of a dish that I feared would do
me harm, I
was desired to repeat the Soorat Kureysh (106th
chapter of the
Kur-án) to the end of the words “supplieth them
with
food against hunger,” and to repeat these last words three
times. This, I was assured, would be a certain preventive of any
harm that
I might have feared.
1 By Robert Hay, Esq., who purchased it from a
peasant at Thebes.
There are various things which are regarded in the same light
as written
charms; such as dust from the tomb of the Prophet,
water from the sacred
well of Zemzem, in the Temple of Mekkeh,
and pieces of the black brocade
covering of the Kaabeh.
2 The
water of Zemzem is much valued for the purpose of
sprinkling
upon grave-clothes.—An Arab, to whom I had given
some
medicine which had been beneficial to him, in the Sa'eed, during
2 Every year, on the first day of the Great
Festival, which immediately
follows the pilgrimage, a new covering is
hung upon the Kaabeh. The old
one is cut up; and the greater part of it
is sold to the pilgrims.

my former visit to this country,
heard me inquire for some
Zemzem-water (as several boats full of pilgrims
on their return
from Mekkeh were coming down the Nile), and perhaps
thought,
from my making this inquiry, that I was a pious Muslim:
accordingly,
to show his gratitude to me, he gave me what I was
seeking
to obtain. Having gone to the house of a friend, he returned
to
my boat, bringing a small bundle, which he opened before me.
“Here,” said he, “are some things which I know
you will value
highly. Here are two tin flasks of the water of Zemzem: one
of
them you shall have: you may keep it to sprinkle your
grave-clothing
with it. This is a ‘miswák' (a
tooth-stick) dipped in the
water of Zemzem: accept it from me: clean your
teeth with it,
and they will never ache, nor decay. And here,”
he added
(showing me three small, oblong and flat cakes, of a kind of
greyish earth, each about an inch in length, and stamped with
Arabic
characters, “In the name of God! Dust of our land
[mixed] with
the saliva of some of us”), “these are composed of
earth from over the grave of the Prophet (God favour and preserve
him!): I
purchased them myself in the noble tomb, on my return
from the pilgrimage:
one of them I give to you: you will find it
a cure for every disease: the
second I shall keep for myself; and
the third we will eat
together.”—Upon this, he broke in halves
one of the
three cakes; and we each ate our share. I agreed
with him (though I had
read the inscription) that it was delicious;
and I gladly accepted his
presents. I was afterwards enabled to
make several additions to my Mekkeh
curiosities; comprising a
piece of the covering of the Kaabeh, brought from
Mekkeh by
the sheyk Ibráheem (Burckhardt), and given to me by
his legatee
‘Osmán. A cake composed of dust from the
Prophet's tomb is
sometimes sewed up in a leather case, and worn as an
amulet.
It is also formed into lumps of the shape and size of a small
pear; and hung to the railing or screen which surrounds the
monument over
the grave of a saint, or to the monument itself, or
to the windows or door
of the apartment which contains it.
So numerous are the charms which the Egyptians employ to
insure good
fortune, or to prevent or remove evils of every kind,
and so various are
the superstitious practices to which they have
recourse with these views,
that a large volume would scarcely
suffice to describe them in detail.
These modes of endeavouring
to obtain good and to avoid or dispel evil,
when they are not
founded upon religion or magic or astrology, are termed
matters
of “‘ilm er-rukkeh,” or the
science of the distaff (that is, of the

women); which designation is given
to imply their absurdity, and
because women are the persons who most
confide in them. This
term is considered, by some, as a vulgar corruption
of “‘ilm
er-rukyeh,” or “the
science of enchantment:” by others, it is
supposed to be
substituted for the latter term by way of a pun.
Some practices of the
nature just described have already been
incidentally mentioned: I shall
only give a few other specimens.
It is a very common custom in
Cairo to hang an aloe-plant
over the door of a
house; particularly over that of a new house,
or over a door newly built:
and this is regarded as a charm to
insure long and flourishing lives to the
inmates, and long continuance
to the house itself.
1 The women also believe that the
Prophet visits the house where this plant is suspended. The aloe,
thus
hung, without earth or water, will live for several years,
and even
blossom. Hence it is called “sabr,” which signifies
“patience.”
1 It has been said, by a traveller, that this is
only done at pilgrims' houses:
but such is not the case, at least in
Egypt.
When any evil is apprehended from a person, it is customary
to break a piece
of pottery behind his back. This is also done
with the view of preventing
further intercourse with such a
person.
As ophthalmia is very prevalent in Egypt, the ignorant people
of this
country resort to many ridiculous practices of a superstitious
nature for
its cure. Some, for this purpose, take a piece
of dried mud from the Bank
of the Nile at or near Boolák, the
principal port of
Cairo, and,
crossing the river, deposit it on the
opposite bank, at Imbábeh.
This is considered sufficient to
insure a cure.—Others, with the
same view, hang to the head-dress,
over the forehead, or over the diseased
eye, a Venetian
sequin; but it must be one of a particular description, in
which
the figures on each side correspond, head to head, and feet to
feet
2. Yet, if a
person having a Venetian sequin, or a dollar, in
his pocket, enter the room
of one who is suffering from ophthalmia
or fever, his presence is thought
to aggravate the complaint. It
is also a general belief, here, that, if an
individual in a state of
religious uncleanness enter a room in which is a
person afflicted
with ophthalmia, the patient's disease will consequently
be aggravated,
and that a speck will appear in one or each of his
eyes.
A man with whom I am acquainted has, at the time I write this,
just come out of a room in which he had confined himself, while
2 A sequin of this description is termed
“benduk'ee musháhrah.”

suffering from ophthalmia, for
about three months, from this fear;
never allowing any person to enter; his
servant always placing
his food outside his door. He has, however, come out
with a
speck in one of his eyes.
Another practice, which is often adopted in similar cases, but
mostly by
women, and frequently with the view of preventing
barrenness, is very
singular and disgusting. The large open place
called the Rumeyleh, on the
west of the Citadel of
Cairo, is a
common scene of the execution of
criminals; and the decapitation
of persons convicted of capital offences in
the metropolis was
formerly almost always performed there, rather than in
any other
part of the town. On the south of this place is a building
called
“Maghsil es-Sultán,” or the
Sultán's washing-place for the dead;
where is a table of stone,
upon which the body of every person
who is decapitated is washed,
previously to its burial, and there
is a trough to receive the water, which
is never poured out, but
remains tainted with the blood, and fetid. Many a
woman goes
thither, and, for the cure of ophthalmia, or to obtain
offspring,
or to expedite delivery in the case of a protracted
pregnancy,
without speaking (for silence is deemed absolutely
necessary),
passes under the stone table above mentioned, with the
left
foot foremost, and then over it; and does this seven times;
after
which, she washes her face with the polluted water that
is in the trough,
and gives five or ten faddahs to an old man and
his wife, who keep the
place; then goes away, still without speaking.
Men, in the case of
ophthalmia, often do the same. The
Maghsil is said to have been built by
the famous Beybars, before
he became Sultán; in consequence of
his observing that the
remains of persons decapitated in
Cairo were often
kicked about,
and buried without being previously washed.
Some women step over the body of a decapitated man seven
times, without
speaking, to become pregnant; and some, with
the same desire, dip in the
blood a piece of cotton wool, of
which they afterwards make use in a manner
I must decline mentioning.
A ridiculous ceremony is practised for the cure of a pimple on
the edge of
the eye-lid, or what we commonly call a “stye,” and
which is termed in Egypt “shahháteh;” a word
which literally
signifies “a female beggar.” The
person affected with it goes to
any seven women of the name of
Fát'meh, in seven different
houses, and begs from each of them a
morsel of bread: these
seven morsels constitute the
remedy.—Sometimes, in a similar

case, and for the same purpose, a
person goes out before sunrise,
and, without speaking, walks round several
tombs, from right to
left, which is the reverse of the regular course made
in visiting
tombs.—Another supposed mode of cure in a case of
the same
kind is, to bind a bit of cotton on the end of a stick; then
to
dip it in one of the troughs out of which the dogs drink in the
streets of
Cairo, and to wipe the eye with it. The patient is thus
careful
to preserve his hand from the polluted water, when he is
about to apply
this to another part of his person.
As an imaginary cure for ague, some of the women of Egypt
(I mean those of
the Muslim faith) hang to their necks the finger
of a Christian or Jew, cut
off a corpse, and dried. This and
other practices mentioned before are
striking proofs of the degrading
effects of superstition, and of its
powerful influence over
the mind: for, in general, the Muslims are
scrupulously careful
to conform with that precept of their religion which
requires them
to abstain from everything polluting or unclean.
When a child is unable to walk, after having attained the age
when it is
usual to begin to do so, it is a common custom for the
mother to bind its
feet together with a palm-leaf tied in three
knots, and to place it at the
door of a mosque during the period
when the congregation are engaged in
performing the Friday-prayers:
when the prayers are ended, she asks the
first, second,
and third persons who come out of the mosque to untie each
a
knot of the palm-leaf; and then carries the child home, confident
that this ceremony will soon have the effect of enabling the little
one to
walk.
There are several pretended antidotes for poison, and remedies
for certain
diseases, to which the Egyptians often have recourse,
and which may perhaps
have some efficacy: but superstition
attributes to them incredible virtues.
The bezoar-stone is used
as an antidote for poison, by rubbing it in a cup
with a little
water: the cup is then filled with water, which the patient
drinks.
In the same manner, and for the same purpose, a cup made of
the horn of the rhinoceros is used: a piece of the same material
(the horn)
is rubbed in it.—As a cure for the jaundice, many
persons in
Cairo drink the water of a well in this city, called
“beer
el-yarakán,” or “the well of the
jaundice.” It is the
property of an old woman, who reaps
considerable advantage
from it: for it has two mouths, under one of which
is a dry
receptacle for anything that may be thrown down: and the old
woman desires the persons who come to use the medicinal

water to drop through this mouth
whatever she happens to be
in need of, as sugar, coffee, etc.
The Muslims have recourse to many superstitious practices to
determine them
when they are in doubt as to any action which
they contemplate, whether
they shall do it or not. Some apply,
for an answer, to a table called a
“záïrgeh.” There is a table
of
this kind ascribed to Idrees, or Enoch. It is divided into a
hundred little
squares, in each of which is written some Arabic
letter. The person who
consults it repeats, three times, the opening
chapter of the
Kur-án, and the 59th verse of the Soorat el-An'ám
(or
6th chapter)—“With him are the keys of the secret
things: none knoweth them but He: and He knoweth whatever
is on the land
and [what is] in the sea: and there falleth not a
leaf, but He knoweth it,
nor a grain in the dark parts of the earth,
nor a moist thing nor a dry
thing, but [it is noted] in a distinct
writing.”—Having done this, without looking directly at
the table,
he places his finger upon it: he then looks to see upon
what
letter his finger is placed, writes that letter, the fifth following
it,
the fifth following this, and so on, until he comes again to the
first which he wrote; and these letters together compose the
answer. The
construction of the table may be shown by translating
it, thus—
| d |
w |
w |
a |
w |
o |
h |
a |
b |
h |
| i |
o |
i |
s |
o |
t |
d |
t |
t |
w |
| w |
o |
a |
a |
a |
i |
e |
n |
i |
i |
| t |
s |
d |
n |
t |
h |
i |
a |
a |
e |
| o |
t |
t |
n |
t |
u |
w |
t |
d |
h |
| t |
i |
a |
e |
s |
f |
l |
i |
n |
u |
| e |
l |
n |
j |
c |
a |
d |
t |
o |
c |
| r |
o |
h |
y |
e |
o |
w |
y |
p |
e |
| f |
r |
w |
e |
d |
i |
o |
i |
a |
e |
| l |
n |
s |
c |
t |
l |
g |
h |
e |
h |
For an example, suppose the finger to be placed on the letter
e
in the sixth line: we take, from the table, the letters
e n j o y p e a c e

a b s t a i n a n d, which compose this sentence:
“Abstain, and
enjoy peace;” the sentence always
commencing with the first of
the letters taken from the uppermost line. It
will be seen that
the table gives only five answers; and that, if we
proceed as
above directed, we must obtain one of these answers, with
whatever
letter of the table we commence. It will also be observed
that the framer of the table, knowing that men very frequently
wish to do
what is wrong, and seldom to do what is right, and
that it is generally
safer for them to abstain when in doubt, has
given but one affirmative
answer, and four negative.
1
1 The more approved
záïrgehs are extremely complicated, and the
process
of consulting them involves intricate astrological
calculations.
Some persons have recourse to the Kur-án for an answer to
their
doubts. This they call making an “istikhárah,”
or application
for the favour of heaven, or for direction in the right
course. Repeating, three times, the opening chapter, the 112th
chapter, and
the verse above quoted, they let the book fall open,
or open it at random,
and, from the seventh line of the right hand
page, draw their answer. The
words often will not convey a
direct answer; but are taken as affirmative
or negative according
as their general tenor is good or bad, promising a
blessing, or
denouncing a threat, etc. Instead of reading the seventh
line
of this page, some count the number of the letters
“khá” and
“sheen”
which occur in the whole page; and if the
“khás”
predominate, the inference is
favourable: “khá” represents
“kheyr,” or “good:”
“sheen,” “sharr,” or
“evil.”
There is another mode of istikhárah; which is, to take hold
of
any two points of a “sebhah” (or rosary), after reciting
the
Fát'hah three times, and then to count the beads between
these
two points, saying, in passing the first bead through the
fingers,
“[I extol] the perfection of God;” in
passing the second,
“Praise be to God;” in passing
the third, “There is no deity
but God;” and repeating
these expressions in the same order, to
the last bead: if the first
expression fall to the last bead, the
answer is affirmative and favourable:
if the second, indifferent:
if the last, negative. This is practised by
many persons.
Some, again, in similar cases, on lying down to sleep at night,
beg of God
to direct them by a dream; by causing them to see
something white or green,
or water, if the action which they contemplate
be approved, or if they are
to expect approaching good
fortune; and if not, by causing them to see
something black or
red, or fire: they then recite the Fát'hah
ten times, and continue

to repeat these
words—“O God, favour our lord Mohammad!”
—until they fall asleep.
The Egyptians place great faith in dreams, which often direct
them in some
of the most important actions of life. They have
two large and celebrated
works on the interpretation of dreams,
by Ibn-Sháheen and
Ibn-Seereen, the latter of whom was the
pupil of the former. These books
are consulted, even by many
of the learned, with implicit confidence. When
one person says
to another, “I have seen a dream,”
the latter usually replies,
“Good” (i.e. may it be of good omen), or, “Good, please
God.”
When a person has had an evil dream, it is customary for
him to
say, “O God, favour our lord Mohammad!” and to
spit over
his left shoulder three times, to prevent an evil result.
In Egypt, as in most other countries, superstitions are entertained
respecting days of the week; some being considered fortunate,
and others
unfortunate.—The Egyptians regard
Sunday
as an
unfortunate day, on account of the night
which follows
it.—This night, which (according to the system
already mentioned)
is called the night of
Monday,
the learned Muslims, and
many of the inferior classes, consider
unfortunate, because it was
that of the death of
their Prophet; but some regard it as
fortunate,
particularly for the consummation of marriage, though
not so auspicious for
this affair as the eve of Friday. The day
following it is also considered,
by some, as
fortunate; and by
others, as
unfortunate.—
Tuesday is
generally thought
unfortunate,
and called
“the day of blood,” as it is said that several
eminent
martyrs were put to death on this day: and hence, also, it is
commonly esteemed a proper day for being bled.—
Wednesday is
regarded as
indifferent.—
Thursday is called
“el-mubárak” (or,
the blessed), and is
considered
fortunate, particularly deriving
a
blessing from the following night and day.—The eve, or night,
of
Friday is
very fortunate,
especially for the consummation of
marriage. Friday is blessed above all
other days as being the
Sabbath of the Muslims: it is called
“el-fadeeleh” (or, the
excellent).—
Saturday is the
most unfortunate
of days. It is
considered very wrong to commence a journey, and, by
most
people in Egypt, to shave, or cut the nails, on this day.—A
friend
of mine here was doubting whether he should bring an action
against two persons on so unfortunate a day as Saturday: he
decided, at
last, that it was the best day of the week for him to
do this, as the ill
fortune must fall upon one of the two parties
only, and doubtless upon his
adversaries, because they were two

to one.—There are some
days of the
year which are esteemed
very fortunate,
as those of the two grand festivals, etc.: and
some which are regarded as
unfortunate; as, for instance, the
last Wednesday in the month of Safar:
when many persons make
a point of not going out of their houses, from the
belief that
numerous afflictions fall upon mankind on that day.
1—Some
persons draw lucky or unlucky omens from the first
object they
see on going out of the house in the morning: according as
that
object is pleasant or the reverse, they say, “Our morning
is
good” or “—bad.” A one-eyed
person is regarded as of evil
omen; and especially one who is blind of the
left eye.
1 This superstition, however, was condemned by
the Prophet.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XII.
MAGIC, ASTROLOGY, AND ALCHEMY.
IF we might believe some stories which are commonly related in
Egypt, it
would appear that, in modern days, there have been, in
this country,
magicians not less skilful than Pharaoh's “wise men
and
sorcerers” of whom we read in the Bible.
The more intelligent of the Muslims distinguish two kinds of
magic, which
they term “Er-Roohánee” (vulgò, “Rowhánee”)
and “Es-Seemiya:” the former is spiritual magic, which is believed
to effect its wonders by the
agency of angels and genii, and by
the mysterious virtues of certain names
of God, and other supernatural
means: the latter is natural and deceptive magic; and its
chief
agents, the less credulous Muslims believe to be certain
perfumes and
drugs, which affect the vision and imagination
nearly in the same manner as
opium: this drug, indeed, is supposed
by some persons to be employed in the
operations of the
latter branch of magic.
“Er-Roohánee,” which is universally considered,
among the
Egyptians, as
true magic, is of two kinds,
“‘ilwee” (or high) and
“suflee” (or low); which are also called
“rahmánee” (or divine,
or, literally,
relating to “the Compassionate,” which is an epithet
of God) and “sheytánee” (or
satanic).—The ‘ilwee, or rahmánee,
is said
to be a science founded on the agency of God, and of his
angels, and good
genii, and on other lawful mysteries; to be
always employed for good
purposes, and only attained and

practised by men of probity, who,
by tradition, or from books,
learn the names of those superhuman agents,
and invocations
which insure compliance with their desires. The writing
of
charms for good purposes belongs to this branch of magic, and
to
astrology, and to the science of the mysteries of numbers.
The highest
attainment in divine magic consists in the knowledge
of the
“Ism-el-Aazam.” This is “the most great
name” of God,
which is generally believed, by the learned, to be
known to none
but prophets and apostles of God. A person acquainted with
it
can, it is said, by merely uttering it, raise the dead to life, kill
the
living, transport himself instantly wherever he pleases, and
perform
any other miracle. Some suppose it to be known to eminent
welees.—The suflee is believed to depend on the agency of the
devil, and other evil genii; and to be used for bad purposes, and
by bad
men. To this branch belongs the science called, by
the Arabs,
“es-sehr;” which is a term they give only to wicked
enchantment.—Those who perform what is called “darb
el-mendel”
(of which I propose to relate some examples) profess
to
do it by the agency of genii; that is, by the science called
er-roohánee:
but there is another opinion on this subject which
will
be presently mentioned.—One of the means by which genii
are
believed to assist magicians has been explained in the second
paragraph of Chapter X.
“Es-Seemiya” is generally pronounced, by the learned, to be
a
false science, and deceptive art, which produces surprising effects
by those natural means which have been above mentioned; and the
“darb el-mendel,” as perfumes are employed in the
performance
of it, is considered, by such persons, as pertaining to
es-seemiya.
“'Ilm en-Nugoom,” or Astrology, is studied by many
persons
in Egypt. It is chiefly employed in casting nativities, in
determining
fortunate periods, etc., and very commonly, to divine by
what sign of the zodiac a person is influenced; which is usually
done by a
calculation founded upon the numerical values of the
letters composing his
or her name, and that of the mother: this
is often done in the case of two
persons who contemplate becoming
man and wife, with the view of
ascertaining whether they will
agree.—The science called
“darb er-ramal,” or geomancy, by
which, from certain
marks made at random on paper, or on sand
(whence, according to some, its
name), the professors pretend to
discover past, passing, and future events,
is, I am informed,
mainly founded on astrology.
“El-Keemiya,” or Alchemy, is also studied by many
persons

in Egypt, and by some possessed of
talents by which they might
obtain a better reputation than this pursuit
procures them, and
who, in spite of the derision which they experience from
a few
men of sounder minds, and the reproaches of those whom they
unintentionally make their dupes, continue, to old age, their fruitless
labours. Considerable knowledge of chemistry is, however,
sometimes
acquired in the study of this false science; and in the
present degraded
state of physical knowledge in this country it
rather evinces a superior
mind when a person gives his attention
to alchemy.
There is, or was,
1 a
native of Egypt very highly celebrated for
his performances in the higher
kind of that branch of magic called
er-roohánee; the sheykh
Isma'eel Aboo-Ru-oos, of the town of
Dasook. Even the more learned and
sober of the people of
this country relate most incredible stories of his
magical skill; for
which some of them account by asserting his having been
married
to a “ginneeyeh” (or female genie); and
others, merely by his
having “ginn” at his service,
whom he could mentally consult
and command, without making use of any such
charm as the lamp
of 'Alá-ed-Deen.
2 He is said to have always employed this
supernatural
power either for good or innocent purposes; and to have
been much favoured by the present Básha, who, some say, often
consulted him. One of the most sensible of my Muslim friends, in
in this
place (
Cairo), informs me that he once visited Aboo-Ru-oos,
at Dasook, in
company with the sheykh El-Emeer, son of the
sheykh El-Emeer El-Kebeer,
sheykh of the sect of the Málikees.
My friend's companion asked
their host to show them some proof of
his skill in magic; and the latter
complied with the request. “Let
coffee be served to
us,” said the sheykh El-Emeer, “in my father's
set of
fingáns and zarfs, which are in
Masr.” They waited a
few
minutes; and then the coffee was brought; and the sheykh El-Emeer
looked at the fingáns and zarfs, and said they were certainly
his father's. He was next treated with sherbet, in what he
declared himself
satisfied were his father's kullehs. He then
wrote a letter to his father,
and, giving it to Aboo-Ru-oos, asked
him to procure an answer to it. The
magician took the letter,
placed it behind a cushion of his
deewán, and, a few minutes after,
removing the cushion, showed
him that this letter was gone, and
1 I was informed that he had died during my
second visit to Egypt.
2 I must be excused for deviating from our old
and erroneous mode of
writing the name of the master of the
“wonderful lamp.” It is vulgarly
pronounced
'Aláy-ed-Deen.

that another was in its place. The
sheykh El-Emeer took the
latter; opened and read it; and found in it, in a
handwriting
which, he said, he could have sworn to be that of his father,
a
complete answer to what he had written, and an account of the
state
of his family which he proved, on his return to
Cairo, a few
days after, to
be perfectly true.
1
1 Of a more famous magician, the sheykh Ahmad
Sádoomeh, who flourished
in Egypt in the latter half of the
last century, an account is given in my translation
of “The
Thousand and One Nights,” chap. i., note 15.
A curious case of magic fell under the cognizance of the
government during
my former visit to this country; and became
a subject of general talk and
wonder throughout the metropolis.
I shall give the story of this occurrence
precisely as it was related
to me by several persons in
Cairo; without
curtailing it of any of
the exaggerations with which they embellished it;
not only because
I am ignorant how far it is true, but because I would
show
how great a degree of faith the Egyptians in general place in
magic, or enchantment.
Mustaf'a Ed-Digwee, chief secretary in the Kádee's court, in
this
city, was dismissed from his office, and succeeded by another
person of the
name of Mustaf'a, who had been a seyrefee, or
money-changer. The former
sent a petition to the Básha, begging
to be reinstated; but
before he received an answer, he was
attacked by a severe illness, which he
believed to be the effect of
enchantment: he persuaded himself that
Mustaf'a the seyrefee
had employed a magician to write a spell which should
cause him
to die; and therefore sent a second time to the Básha,
charging
the new secretary with this crime. The accused was brought
before the Básha; confessed that he had done so; and named
the
magician whom he had employed. The latter was arrested;
and, not being able
to deny the charge brought against him, was
thrown into prison, there to
remain until it should be seen whether
or not Ed-Digwee would die. He was
locked up in a small cell;
and two soldiers were placed at the door, that
one of them
might keep watch while the other slept. Now for the
marvellous
part of the story.—At night, after one of the guards
had fallen
asleep, the other heard a strange, murmuring noise, and,
looking
through a crack of the door of the cell, saw the magician
sitting
in the middle of the floor, muttering some words which he (the
guard) could not understand. Presently, the candle which was
before him
became extinguished; and, at the same instant, four
other candles appeared;
one in each corner of the cell. The

magician then rose, and, standing
on one side of the cell, knocked
his forehead three times against the wall;
and each time that he
did so, the wall opened, and a man appeared to come
forth from
it. After the magician had conversed for some minutes with
the
three personages whom he thus produced, they disappeared; as
did,
also, the four candles; and the candle that was in the midst
of the cell
became lighted again, as at first: the magician then
resumed his position
on the floor; and all was quiet. Thus the
spell that was to have killed
Ed-Digwee was dissolved. Early
the next morning, the invalid felt himself
so much better, that
he called for a basin and ewer, performed the
ablution, and said
his prayers; and from that time he rapidly recovered. He
was
restored to his former office; and the magician was banished
from
Egypt. Another enchanter (or “sahhár”) was
banished a
few days after, for writing a charm which caused a
Muslim'eh
girl to be affected with an irresistible love for a Copt
Christian.
A few days after my first arrival in this country, my curiosity
was excited
on the subject of magic by a circumstance related to
me by Mr. Salt, our
Consul-general. Having had reason to
believe that one of his servants was a
thief, from the fact of
several articles of property having been stolen
from his house, he
sent for a celebrated Maghrab'ee magician, with the view
of
intimidating them, and causing the guilty one (if any of them
were
guilty) to confess his crime. The magician came; and said
that he would
cause the exact image of the person who had
committed the thefts to appear
to any youth not arrived at the
age of puberty; and desired the master of
the house to call in
any boy whom he might choose. As several boys were
then
employed in a garden adjacent to the house, one of them was
called for this purpose. In the palm of this boy's right hand,
the magician
drew, with a pen, a certain diagram, in the centre
of which he poured a
little ink. Into this ink, he desired the
boy steadfastly to look. He then
burned some incense, and
several bits of paper inscribed with charms; and
at the same
time called for various objects to appear in the ink. The
boy
declared that he saw all these objects, and, last of all, the
image
of the guilty person; he described his stature, countenance, and
dress; said that he knew him; and directly ran down into the
garden, and
apprehended one of the labourers, who, when brought
before the master,
immediately confessed that he was the thief.
The above relation made me desirous of witnessing a similar
performance
during my first visit to this country; but not being

acquainted with the name of the
magician here alluded to, or his
place of abode, I was unable to obtain any
tidings of him. I
learned, however, soon after my return to England, that
he had
become known to later travellers in Egypt; was residing in
Cairo;
and that he was called the sheykh 'Abd-El-Kádir
El-Maghrab'ee.
A few weeks after my second arrival in Egypt, my
neighbour
'Osmán, interpreter of the British consulate, brought
him to me;
and I fixed a day for his visiting me, to give me a proof of
the
skill for which he is so much famed. He came at the time
appointed, about two hours before noon; but seemed uneasy;
frequently
looking up at the sky, through the window; and
remarked that the weather
was unpropitious: it was dull and
cloudy; and the wind was boisterous. The
experiment was performed
with three boys; one after another. With the
first, it
was partly successful; but with the others, it completely
failed.
The magician said that he could do nothing more that day; and
that he would come in the evening of a subsequent day. He
kept his
appointment; and admitted that the time was favourable.
While waiting for
my neighbour, before mentioned, to come and
witness the performances, we
took pipes and coffee; and the
magician chatted with me on indifferent
subjects. He is a fine,
tall, and stout man, of a rather fair complexion,
with a dark
brown beard; is shabbily dressed; and generally wears a
large
green turban, being a descendant of the Prophet. In his
conversation,
he is affable and unaffected. He professed to me that
his wonders were effected by the agency of
good spirits;
but to
others, he has said the reverse: that his magic is satanic.
In preparing for the experiment of the magic mirror of ink,
which, like some
other performances of a similar nature, is here
termed “darb
el-mendel,” the magician first asked me for a reed-pen
and ink,
a piece of paper, and a pair of scissors; and, having
cut off a narrow
strip of paper, wrote upon it certain forms of
invocation, together with
another charm, by which he professes
to accomplish the object of the
experiment. He did not attempt
to conceal these; and on my asking him to
give me copies of
them, he readily consented, and immediately wrote them
for me;
explaining to me, at the same time, that the object he had in
view was accomplished through the influence of the two first
words,
“Tarshun” and “Taryooshun,”
1 which, he said, were
the
names of two genii, his “familiar spirits.” I
compared the copies
1 Or, “Tarsh” and
“Taryoosh;” the final “un” being
the inflexion
which denotes the nominative case.

with the originals; and found that
they exactly agreed. Facsimiles
of them are here inserted, with a translation.

MAGIC INVOCATION AND CHARM.
“Tarshun! Taryooshun! Come down!
Come down! Be present! Whither are gone
the prince and his troops? Where are El-Ahmar
the prince and his troops? Be present
ye servants of these names!”
“And this is the removal. ‘And
we have removed from thee
thy veil; and thy sight to-day
is piercing.' Correct: correct.”
Having written these, the magician cut off the paper containing
the
forms of invocation from that upon which the other charm
was written; and
cut the former into six strips. He then explained
to me that the object of
the latter charm (which contains
part of the 21st verse of the Soorat
Káf, or 50th chapter of the
Kur-án) was to open the
boy's eyes in a supernatural manner;
to make his sight pierce into what is
to us the invisible world.
I had prepared, by the magician's direction, some frankincense
and
coriander-seed,
1
and a chafing-dish with some live charcoal in
1 He generally requires some benzoin to be added
to these.

it. These were now brought into the
room, together with the
boy who was to be employed: he had been called in,
by my
desire, from among some boys in the street, returning from a
manufactory; and was about eight or nine years of age. In reply
to my
inquiry respecting the description of persons who could see
in the magic
mirror of ink, the magician said that they were a
boy not arrived at
puberty, a virgin, a black female slave, and a
pregnant woman. The
chafing-dish was placed before him and

MAGIC SQUARE AND MIRROR OF INK.
the boy; and the latter was placed on a seat. The magician now
desired my servant to put some frankincense and coriander-seed
into the
chafing-dish; then taking hold of the boy's right hand,
he drew, in the
palm of it, a magic square,
1 of which a copy is
1 The numbers in this magic square, in our own
ordinary characters, are as
follows:—
It will be seen that the horizontal, vertical, and diagonal rows give,
each, the
same sum, namely, 15.

here given. The figures which it
contains are Arabic numerals.
In the centre, he poured a little ink, and
desired the boy to look
into it, and tell him if he could see his face
reflected in it: the
boy replied that he saw his face clearly. The
magician, holding
the boy's hand all the while,
1 told him to continue looking
intently
into the ink; and not to raise his head.
1 This reminds us of animal magnetism.
He then took one of the little strips of paper inscribed with
the forms of
invocation, and dropped it into the chafing-dish,
upon the burning coals
and perfumes, which had already filled
the room with their smoke; and as he
did this, he commenced
an indistinct muttering of words, which he continued
during the
whole process, excepting when he had to ask the boy a
question,
or to tell him what he was to say. The piece of paper
containing
the words from the Kur-án he placed inside the fore
part of the
boy's tákeeyeh, or scull-cap. He then asked him if
he saw anything
in the ink; and was answered, “No:”
but about a minute
after, the boy, trembling and seeming much frightened,
said, “I
see a man sweeping the ground.”
“When he has done sweeping,”
said the magician,
“tell me.” Presently the boy said,
“He has
done.” The magician then again interrupted his
muttering to ask
the boy if he knew what a “beyrak” (or flag)
was; and
being answered, “Yes,” desired him to say,
“Bring a
flag.” The boy did so; and soon said,
“He has brought a flag.”
“What colour is
it?” asked the magician: the boy replied,
“Red.” He was told to call for another flag; which he did;
and
soon after he said that he saw another brought, and that it was
black. In like manner, he was told to call for a third, fourth,
fifth,
sixth, and seventh; which he described as being successively
brought before
him; specifying their colours, as white,
green, black, red, and blue. The
magician then asked him (as
he did, also, each time that a new flag was
described as being
brought), “How many flags have you now before
you?”
“Seven,” answered the boy. While
this was going on, the
magician put the second and third of the small
strips of paper
upon which the forms of invocation were written, into
the
chafing-dish; and fresh frankincense and coriander-seed having
been repeatedly added, the fumes became painful to the eyes.
When the boy
had described the seven flags as appearing to him,
he was desired to say,
“Bring the Sultán's tent; and pitch it.”
This he did; and in about a minute after, he said, “Some men

have brought the tent; a large
green tent: they are pitching it;”
and presently he added,
“They have set it up.” “Now,”
said
the magician, “order the soldiers to come, and to pitch
their
camp around the tent of the Sultán.” The boy
did as he was
desired; and immediately said, “I see a great many
soldiers,
with their tents: they have pitched their tents.” He
was then
told to order that the soldiers should be drawn up in ranks;
and, having done so, he presently said, that he saw them thus
arranged. The
magician had put the fourth of the little strips of
paper into the
chafing-dish; and soon after, he did the same
with the fifth. He now said,
“Tell some of the people to bring
a bull.” The boy
gave the order required, and said, “I see a
bull: it is red:
four men are dragging it along; and three are
beating it.” He
was told to desire them to kill it, and cut it up,
and to put the meat in
saucepans, and cook it. He did as he
was directed; and described these
operations as apparently performed
before his eyes. “Tell the
soldiers,” said the magician,
“to eat it.”
The boy did so; and said, “They are eating it.
They have done;
and are washing their hands.” The magician
then told him to call
for the Sultán; and the boy, having done
this, said,
“I see the Sultán riding to his tent, on a bay horse;
and he has, on his head, a high red cap: he has alighted at his
tent, and
sat down within it.” “Desire them to bring coffee to
the Sultán,” said the magician, “and to form
the court.” These
orders were given by the boy; and he said that
he saw them
performed. The magician had put the last of the six little
strips
of paper into the chafing-dish. In his mutterings I
distinguished
nothing but the words of the written invocation, frequently
repeated,
excepting on two or three occasions, when I heard him
say,
“If they demand information, inform them; and be ye
veracious.” But much that he repeated was inaudible, and as I
did not ask him to teach me his art, I do not pretend to assert
that I am
fully acquainted with his invocations.
He now addressed himself to me; and asked me if I wished
the boy to see any
person who was absent or dead. I named
Lord Nelson, of whom the boy had
evidently never heard; for
it was with much difficulty that he pronounced
the name, after
several trials. The magician desired the boy to say to
the
Sultán—“My master salutes thee, and
desires thee to bring
Lord Nelson: bring him before my eyes, that I may see
him,
speedily.” The boy then said so; and almost
immediately
added, “A messenger is gone, and has returned, and
brought a

man, dressed in a black
1 suit of European
clothes: the man has
lost his left arm.” He then paused for a
moment or two; and,
looking more intently, and more closely, into the ink,
said, “No,
he has not lost his left arm; but it is placed to his
breast.” This
correction made his description more striking than
it had been
without it: since Lord Nelson generally had his empty
sleeve
attached to the breast of his coat: but it was the
right arm that
he had lost. Without saying that I suspected the
boy had made
a mistake, I asked the magician whether the objects appeared
in
the ink as if actually before the eyes, or as if in a glass, which
makes the right appear left. He answered, that they appeared
as in a
mirror. This rendered the boy's description faultless.
2
1 Dark blue is called by the modern Egyptians
“eswed,” which properly
signifies black, and is therefore so translated here.
2 Whenever I desired the boy to call for any
person to appear, I paid particular
attention both to the magician and
to 'Osmán. The latter gave no
direction either by word or
sign; and indeed he was generally unacquainted
with the personal
appearance of the individual called for. I took care that he
had no
previous communication with the boys; and have seen the experiment
fail
when he could have given directions to them, or to
the magician. In
short, it would be difficult to conceive any
precaution which I did not take.
It is important to add, that the
dialect of the magician was more intelligible
to me than to the boy.
When I understood him perfectly at once, he was
sometimes obliged to vary his words to make the boy
comprehend what he
said.
The next person I called for was a native of Egypt, who has
been for many
years resident in England, where he has adopted
our dress; and who had been
long confined to his bed by illness
before I embarked for this country: I
thought that his name,
one not very uncommon in Egypt, might make the boy
describe
him incorrectly; though another boy, on the former visit of
the
magician, had described this same person as wearing a European
dress, like that in which I last saw him. In the present case the
boy said,
“Here is a man brought on a kind of bier, and wrapped
up in a
sheet.” This description would suit, supposing the person
in
question to be still confined to his bed, or if he be dead.
3
The boy described his face as covered; and was told to order
that it
should be uncovered. This he did; and then said, “His
face is
pale; and he has mustaches, but no beard:” which is
correct.
3 A few months after this was written, I had the
pleasure of hearing that the
person here alluded to was in better
health. Whether he was confined to his
bed at the time when this
experiment was performed, I have not been able to
ascertain.
Several other persons were successively called for; but the
boy's
descriptions of them were imperfect, though not altogether
incorrect. He
represented each object as appearing less distinct
than the preceding one;
as if his sight were gradually becoming
dim: he was a minute, or more,
before he could give any account
of the persons he professed to see towards
the close of the
performance; and the magician said it was useless to
proceed
with him. Another boy was then brought in; and the magic
square, etc., made in his hand; but he could see nothing. The
magician said
he was too old.
Though completely puzzled, I was somewhat disappointed with
his
performances, for they fell short of what he had accomplished,
in many
instances, in presence of certain of my friends and
countrymen. On one of
these occasions, an Englishman present
ridiculed the performance, and said
that nothing would satisfy him
but a correct description of the appearance
of his own father, of
whom, he was sure, no one of the company had any
knowledge. The
boy, accordingly, having called by name for the person
alluded to,
described a man in a Frank dress, with his hand placed to
his
head, wearing spectacles, and with one foot on the ground, and
the
other raised behind him, as if he were stepping down from a
seat. The
description was exactly true in every respect: the
peculiar position of the
hand was occasioned by an almost constant
headache; and that of the foot or
leg, by a stiff knee, caused
by a fall from a horse, in hunting. I am
assured that, on this
occasion, the boy accurately described each person
and thing that
was called for. On another occasion, Shakspeare was
described
with the most minute correctness, both as to person and dress;
and
I might add several other cases in which the same magician has
excited astonishment in the sober minds of Englishmen of my
acquaintance. A
short time since, after performing in the usual
manner, by means of a boy,
he prepared the magic mirror in the
hand of a young English lady, who, on
looking into it for a little
while, said that she saw a broom sweeping the
ground without
anybody holding it, and was so much frightened that she
would
look no longer.
I have stated these facts partly from my own experience, and
partly as they
came to my knowledge on the authority of respectable
persons. The reader
may be tempted to think, that, in each
instance, the boy saw images
produced by some reflection in the
ink; but this was evidently not the
case; or that he was a confederate,
or guided by leading questions. That
there was no collusion,

I satisfactorily ascertained, by
selecting the boy who performed
the part above described in my presence
from a number
of others passing by in the street, and by his rejecting a
present
which I afterwards offered him with the view of inducing him
to
confess that he did not really see what he had professed to have
seen. I tried the veracity of another boy on a subsequent occasion
in the
same manner; and the result was the same. The
experiment often entirely
fails; but when the boy employed is
right in one case, he generally is so
in all: when he gives, at first,
an account altogether wrong, the magician
usually dismisses him
at once, saying that he is too old. The perfumes, or
excited
imagination, or fear, may be supposed to affect the vision of
the
boy who describes objects as appearing to him in the ink; but, if
so,
why does he see exactly what is required, and objects of which he
can have had no previous particular notion? Neither I nor others
have been
able to discover any clue by which to penetrate the
mystery; and if the
reader be alike unable to give the solution, I
hope that he will not allow
the above account to induce in his
mind any degree of scepticism with
respect to other portions of
this work.
1
1 I have been gratified by finding that this
hope has been realized. I wish
I could add that the phenomena were now
explained. In No. 117 of the
“Quarterly Review,”
pp. 202 and 203, it has been suggested that the performances
were
effected by means of pictures and a concave mirror; and that the
images
of the former were reflected from the surface of the mirror, and
received
on a cloud of smoke under the eyes of the boy. This, however,
I cannot
admit; because such means could not have been employed without
my perceiving
them; nor would the images be reversed (unless the pictures were so)
by being reflected from
the surface of a mirror, and received upon a second
surface; for the boy was looking down upon the palm of his hand, so that an
image could not be
formed upon the smoke (which was copious but not dense)
between his eye
and the supposed mirror. The grand difficulty of the case is
the
exhibition of “the correct appearance of private individuals
unknown to
fame,” as remarked in the “Quarterly
Review,” in which a curious note, presenting
“some new features of difficulty,” is appended. With
the most
remarkable of the facts there related I was acquainted; but I
was not bold
enough to insert them. I may now, however, here mention
them. Two
travellers (one of them, M. Léon Delaborde; the
other, an Englishman),
both instructed by the magician
'Abd-el-Kádir, are stated to have succeeded in
performing
similar feats. Who this Englishman was, I have not been able to
learn:
he positively denied all collusion, and asserted that he did nothing
but
repeat the forms taught him by the magician.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XIII.
CHARACTER.
THE natural or innate character of the modern Egyptians is
altered, in a
remarkable degree, by their religion, laws and
government, as well as by
the climate and other causes; and to
form a just opinion of it is,
therefore, very difficult. We may,
however, confidently state, that they
are endowed, in a higher
degree than most other people, with some of the
more important
mental qualities; particularly, quickness of apprehension, a
ready
wit, and a retentive memory. In youth, they generally possess
these and other intellectual powers; but the causes above alluded
to
gradually lessen their mental energy.
Of the leading features of their character, none is more remarkable
than
their religious pride. They regard persons of
every other faith as the
children of perdition; and such, the
Muslim is early taught to despise.
1 It is written in the
Kur-án,
“O ye who have believed, take not the Jews
and Christians as
friends: they are friends one to another; and whosoever
of you
taketh them as his friends, verily he is [one] of
them.”
2
From
motives of politeness, or selfish interest, these people will
sometimes
talk with apparent liberality of sentiment, and even make
professions of friendship, to a Christian (particularly to a European),
whom, in their hearts, they contemn: but as the Muslims of
Egypt judge of
the Franks in general from the majority of those
in their towns, some of
whom are outcasts from their native
countries, and others (though not
all the rest, of course), men
under no moral
restraint, they are hardly to be blamed for despising
them. The Christians
are, however, generally treated with
1 I am credibly informed that children in Egypt
are often taught, at school,
a regular set of curses to denounce upon
the persons and property of Christians,
Jews, and all other unbelievers
in the religion of Mohammad. See
Appendix D.
2 Chap. v., ver. 56. Verses 62 and 63 of the
same chapter explain the
reason of this
precept:—“O ye who have believed, take not those who
have
made your religion a laughing-stock and a jest, of those who have
received the
Scripture before you, and the unbelievers [or
polytheists], as friends; (but
fear God, if ye be believers;) and
[those who], when ye call to prayer, make
it [namely, the prayer] a
laughing-stock and a jest. This [they do] because
they are a people who
do not understand.” (The words enclosed in brackets
are from
the Commentary of the Geláleyn.)

civility by the people of Egypt:
the Muslims being as remarkable
for their toleration as for their contempt
of unbelievers.
It is considered the highest honour among the Muslims, to be
religious; but
the desire to appear so leads many into hypocrisy
and pharisaical
ostentation. When a Muslim is unoccupied by
business, or amusement, or
conversation, he is often heard to
utter some pious ejaculation. If a
wicked thought, or the remembrance
of a wicked action that he has
committed, trouble him, he
sighs forth, “I beg forgiveness of
God, the Great!” The shopkeeper,
when not engaged with
customers, nor enjoying his pipe,
often employs himself, in the sight and
hearing of the passengers
in the street, in reciting a chapter of the
Kur-án, or in repeating
to himself those expressions in praise
of God which often follow
the ordinary prayers, and are counted with the
beads; and in the
same public manner he prays.—The Muslims
frequently swear by
God (but not irreverently); and also by the Prophet,
and by the
head or beard of the person they address. When one is told
anything
that excites his surprise and disbelief, he generally
exclaims,
“Wa-llah?” or,
“Wa-lláhi?” (by God?); and the other
replies,
“Wa-lláhi!”—As on
ordinary occasions before eating and drinking,
so also on taking medicine,
commencing a writing, or any
important undertaking, and before many a
trifling act, it is their
habit to say, “In the name of God, the
Compassionate, the
Merciful;” and after the act,
“Praise be to God.” When two
persons make any
considerable bargain, they recite together the
first chapter of the
Kur-án (the Fát'hah). In case of a debate on
any
matter of business or of opinion, it is common for one of the
parties, or a
third person who may wish to settle the dispute, or
to cool the disputants,
to exclaim, “Blessing on the Prophet!”
—“O God, favour him!” is said, in a low voice,
by the other or
others; and they then continue the argument, but generally
with
moderation.
Religious ejaculations often interrupt conversation upon trivial
and even
licentious subjects, in Egyptian society; sometimes, in
such a manner that
a person not well acquainted with the character
of this people would
perhaps imagine that they intended to
make religion a jest. In many of
their most indecent songs the
name of God is frequently introduced; and
this is certainly done
without any profane motive, but from the habit of
often mentioning
the name of the Deity in vain, and of praising Him on
every
trifling occasion of surprise, or in testimony of admiration of
anything
uncommon. Thus, a libertine, describing his impressions

on the first sight of a charming
girl (in one of the grossest songs
I have ever seen or heard even in the
Arabic language), exclaims,
“Extolled be He who formed thee, O
full moon!”—and this and
many similar expressions are
common in many other songs and
odes; but what is most remarkable in the
song particularly alluded
to above, is a profane comparison with which it
terminates. I
shall adduce, as an example of the strange manner in
which
licentiousness and religion are often blended together in vulgar
Egyptian poetry and rhyming prose, a translation of the last three
stanzas
of an ode on love and wine:—
“She granted me a reception, the graceful of form, after her distance
and
coyness. I kissed her teeth and her cheek; and the cup rang in her
hand.
The odours of musk and ambergris were diffused by a person whose
form
surpassed the elegance of a straight and slender branch. She spread a
bed of
brocade; and I passed the time in uninterrupted happiness. A Turkish
fawn
enslaved me.
“Now I beg forgiveness of God, my Lord, for all my faults and sins;
and
for all that my heart hath said. My members testify against me.
Whenever
grief oppresseth me, O Lord, Thou art my hope from whatever
afflicteth me.
Thou knowest what I say, and what I think. Thou art the
Bountiful, the
Forgiving! I implore Thy protection: then pardon me.
“And I praise that benignant being
1 whom a cloud was wont to shade;
the comely: how
great was his comeliness! He will intercede for us on the
day of judgment,
when his haters, the vile, the polytheists, shall be repentant.
Would that
I might always, as long as I live, accompany the pilgrims, to perform
the
circuits and worship and courses, and live in uninterrupted
happiness!”
In translating the first of the above stanzas, I have substituted
the
feminine for the masculine pronoun; for, in the original, the
former is
meant, though the latter is used, as is commonly the
case in similar
compositions of the Egyptians. One of my Muslim
friends having just called
on me after my writing the above remarks,
I read to him the last four
stanzas of this ode, and asked
him if he considered it proper thus to mix
up religion with
debauchery. He answered, “Perfectly proper; a
man relates
his having committed sins, and then prays to God for
forgiveness,
and blesses the
Prophet.”—“But,” said I,
“this is an ode written
to be chanted for the amusement of
persons who take pleasure in
unlawful indulgences; and see here, when I
close the leaves, the
page which celebrates a debauch comes in contact,
face to face,
with that upon which are written the names of the Deity;
the
commemoration of the pleasures of sin is placed upon the prayer
for forgiveness.” “That is nonsense,” replied
my friend; “turn

the book over, place that side
upwards which is now downwards,
and then the case will be the
reverse—sin covered by forgiveness;
and God, whose name be
exalted, hath said in the Excellent
Book, ‘Say, O my servants,
who have transgressed against your
own souls, despair not of the mercy of
God, seeing that God forgiveth
all sins [unto those who repent], for He is
the Very Forgiving,
the Merciful.”
1 His answer reminds me of what I
have
often observed, that the generality of Arabs, a most inconsistent
people, are every day breaking their law in some point or other,
trusting
that two words (“Astaghfir Alláh,” or
“I beg forgiveness
of God”) will cancel every
transgression. He had a copy of the
Kur-án in his hand, and on
my turning it over to look for the
verse he had quoted, I found in it a
scrap of paper containing
some words from the venerated volume; he was
about to burn
this piece of paper lest it should fall out and be trodden
upon;
and on my asking him whether it was allowable to do so, he
answered, that it might either be burnt, or thrown into running
water; but
that it was better to burn it, as the words would
ascend in the flames, and
be conveyed by angels to heaven.
Sometimes the Kur-án is quoted
in jest, even by persons of strict
religious principles. For instance, the
following equivocal and
evasive answer was once suggested to me on a
person's asking of
me a present of a watch, which, I must previously
mention, is
called “sá-'ah,” a word which
signifies an “hour,” and the “period
of
the general judgment.”—“Verily, the
‘sá'ah' shall come: I
will surely make it to
appear” (chap. xx. ver. 15).
1 Kur-án, chap. xxxix. ver.
54.
There are often met with, in Egyptian society, persons who
will introduce an
apposite quotation from the Kur-án or the
Traditions of the
Prophet in common conversation, whatever be
the topic; and an interruption
of this kind is not considered, as
it would be in general society in our
own country, either hypocritical
or annoying; but rather occasions
expressions, if not
feelings, of admiration, and often diverts the hearers
from a trivial
subject to matters of a more serious nature. The Muslims
of
Egypt, and, I believe, those of other countries, are generally fond
of conversing on religion; and the most prevalent mode of entertaining
a
party of guests among the higher and middle ranks in
this place (
Cairo) is
the recital of a “khatmeh” (or the whole of
the
Kur-án), which is chanted by fikees, hired for the purpose;
or
the performance of a “zikr,” which has been before
mentioned.
Few persons among them would venture to say, that

they prefer hearing a concert of
music to the performance of a
khatmeh of zikr; and they certainly do take
great pleasure in the
latter performances. The manner in which the
Kur-án is sometimes
chanted is, indeed, very pleasing; though I
must say, that
a complete khatmeh is, to me, extremely tiresome. With
the
religious zeal of the Muslims, I am daily struck; yet I have often
wondered that they so seldom attempt to make converts to their
faith. On my
expressing my surprise, as I have frequently done,
at their indifference
with respect to the propagation of their
religion, contrasting it with the
conduct of their ancestors of the
early ages of El-Islám, I have
generally been answered—“Of
what use would it be if I
could convert a thousand infidels?
Would it increase the number of the
faithful? By no means:
the number of the faithful is decreed by God; and no
act of man
can increase or diminish it.” The contending against
such an
answer would have led to an interminable dispute; so I never
ventured a reply. I have heard quoted, by way of apology for
their
neglecting to make proselytes, the following words of the
Kur-án: “Dispute not against those who have received
the
Scriptures”
1 (namely, the Christians and Jews), without the
words
immediately following—“unless in the best
manner; except
against such of them as behave injuriously [towards you]:
and
say [unto them], We believe in [the revelation] that hath been
sent down unto us, and [also in that] which hath been sent down
unto you:
and our God and your God is one.”
2 If this precept
were acted upon by the Muslims,
it might perhaps lead to disputes
which would make them more
liberal-minded, and much
better informed.
2 In the first edition of the present work,
copying Sale, who gives no
authority for the remark, I here added,
“This precept is, however, generally
considered as abrogated
by that of the sword.” These words might lead the
reader
into error, as is shown by what I have said on the subject of war in
page 81.
The respect which most modern Muslims pay to their Prophet
is almost
idolatrous. They very frequently swear by him; and
many of the most
learned, as well as the ignorant, often implore
his intercession. Pilgrims
are generally much more affected on
visiting his tomb than in performing
any other religious rite.
There are some Muslims who will not do anything
that the
Prophet is not recorded to have done: and who particularly
abstain from eating anything that he did not eat, though its lawfulness

be undoubted. The Imám
Ahmad Ibn-Hambal would
not even eat water-melons, because, although he knew
that the
Prophet ate them, he could not learn whether he ate them with
or without the rind, or whether he broke, bit, or cut them: and
he forbade
a woman, who questioned him as to the propriety of
the act, to spin by the
light of torches passing in the street by
night, which were not her own
property, because the Prophet had
not mentioned whether it was lawful to do
so, and was not
known to have ever availed himself of a light belonging
to
another person without that person's leave.—I once,
admiring
some very pretty pipe-bowls, asked the maker why he did not
stamp them with his name. He answered “God forbid! My
name is
Ahmad” (one of the names of the Prophet): “would
you
have me put it in the fire?”—I have heard adduced as
one
of the subjects of complaint against the present Básha, his
causing
the camels and horses of the government to be branded with
his
names, “Mohammad 'Alee.” “In the first
place,” said a
friend of mine, who mentioned this fact to me,
“the iron upon
which are engraved these names, names which ought
to be so
much venerated, the names of the Prophet (God favour and
preserve
him!), and his Cousin (may God be well pleased with
him!), is
into the fire, which is shocking: then it is applied
to the neck of a
camel; and causes blood, which is impure, to
flow, and to pollute the
sacred names both upon the iron and
upon the animal's skin: and when the
wound is healed, how
probable is it, and almost certain and unavoidable,
that the
camel will, when he lies down, lay his neck upon something
unclean!”
A similar feeling is the chief reason why the Muslims object to
printing
their books. They have scarcely a book (I do not remember
to have seen one)
that does not contain the name of
God: it is a rule among them to commence
every book with the
words “In the name of God, the
Compassionate, the Merciful,'
and to begin the preface or introduction by
praising God, and
blessing the Prophet; and they fear some impurity might
be contracted
by the ink that is applied to the name of the Deity, in
the process of printing, or by the paper to be impressed with that
sacred
name, and perhaps with words taken from the Kur-án.
They fear,
also, that their books, becoming very cheap by being
printed, would fall
into the hands of infidels; and are much
shocked at the idea of using a
brush composed of hogs' hair
(which was at first done here) to apply the
ink to the name, and

often to the words, of God. Hence,
books have hitherto been
printed in Egypt only by order of the government:
but two or
three persons have lately applied for, and received,
permission
to make use of the government-press. I am acquainted with a
bookseller here who has long been desirous of printing some
books which he
feels sure would bring him considerable profit;
but cannot overcome his
scruples as to the lawfulness of doing
so.
The honour which the Muslims show to the Kur-án is very
striking.
They generally take care never to hold it, or suspend
it, in such a manner
as that it shall be below the girdle; and they
deposit it upon a high and
clean place; and never put another
book, or anything else, on the top of
it. On quoting from it,
they usually say, “He whose name be
exalted' (or “God, whose
name be exalted”)
“hath said, in the Excellent Book.” They
consider it
extremely improper that the sacred volume should
be touched by a Christian
or a Jew, or any other person not a
believer in its doctrines; though some
of them are induced, by
covetousness, but very rarely, to sell copies of it
to such persons.
It is even forbidden to the Muslim to touch it unless he
be in a
state of legal purity; and hence, these words of the book
itself—
“None shall touch it but they who are
purified”
1—are often
stamped upon the cover. The same remarks
apply, also, to anything
upon which is inscribed a passage of the
Kur-án. It is
remarkable, however, that most of the old Arab
coins bear inscriptions
of words from the Kur-án, or else the
testimony of the faith
(“There is no deity but God: Mohammad is
God's Apostle”);
notwithstanding they were intended for the use
of Jews and
Christians, as well as Muslims: but I have heard this
practice
severely condemned.—On my once asking one of my
Muslim
friends whether figs were esteemed wholesome in Egypt, he
answered,
“Is not the fig celebrated in the Kur-án?
God swears
by it: ‘By the fig and the olive!'” (chap.
xcv., ver. 1).
1 Kur-án, chap. lvi. ver. 78.
There is certainly much enthusiastic piety in the character of
the modern
Muslims, notwithstanding their inconsistencies and
superstitions: such, at
least, is generally the case. There are, I
believe, very few professed
Muslims who are really unbelievers;
and these dare not openly declare their
unbelief, through fear of
losing their heads for their apostasy. I have
heard of two or
three such, who have been rendered so by long and intimate
intercourse
with Europeans; and have met with one materialist,

who has often had long discussions
with me. In preceding
chapters of this work, several practices indicative
of the religious
feeling which prevails among the Muslims of Egypt have
been
incidentally mentioned. Religious appeals are generally used by
the beggars in this country: some examples of these will be
given
hereafter. Of a similar nature, also, are the cries of many
of the persons
who sell vegetables, etc. The cry of the nightly
watchman in the quarter in
which I lived in
Cairo during my
first visit struck me as remarkable for
its beauty and sublimity—
“I extol the perfection of
the living King, who sleepeth not nor
dieth.” The present
watchman, in the same quarter, exclaims,
“O Lord! O
Everlasting!” Many other illustrations of the religious
character of the people whom I am endeavouring to
portray might be added. I
must, however, here acknowledge,
that religion has much declined among them
and most others of
the same faith. Whoever has been in the habit of
conversing
familiarly with the modern Muslims must often have heard
them
remark, with a sigh, “It is the end of
time!”—“The world has
fallen into
infidelity.”—They are convinced that the present
state
of their religion is a proof that the end of the world is near.
The mention which I have made, in a former chapter, of some of
the tenets
of the Wahhábees, as being those of the primitive
Muslims, shows
how much the generality of the modern professors
of the faith of the
Kur-án have deviated from the precepts
originally delivered to
its disciples.
Influenced by their belief in predestination, the men display,
in times of
distressing uncertainty, an exemplary patience, and,
after any afflicting
event, a remarkable degree of resignation and
fortitude, approaching nearly
to apathy;
1 generally
exhibiting
their sorrow only by a sigh, and the exclamation of
“Allah
kereem!” (God is bountiful!)—but
the women, on the contrary,
give vent to their grief by the most
extravagant cries and shrieks.
While the Christian blames himself for every
untoward event
which he thinks he has brought upon himself, or might
have
avoided, the Muslim enjoys a remarkable serenity of mind in all
the vicissitudes of life. When he sees his end approaching, his
resignation
is still conspicuous: he exclaims, “Verily to God we
belong; and
verily to Him we return!” and the those who inquire
1 They are not, however, so apathetic as some
travellers have supposed;
for it is not uncommon to see them weep; and
such a demonstration of feeling
is not considered by them as unmanly:
even heroes are frequently represented,
in their romances and
histories, as weeping under heavy affliction.

respecting his state, in general
his reply is, “Praise be to God!
Our Lord is
bountiful!”—His belief in predestination does not,
however, prevent his taking any step to attain an object that
he may have
in view; not being perfectly absolute, or unconditional:
nor does it in
general make him careless of avoiding
danger; for he thinks himself
forbidden to do so by these words
or the Kur-án,
1 “Throw not
yourselves
2 into
perdition;” excepting
in some cases; as in those of pestilence
and other sicknesses;
being commanded, by the Prophet, not to go into a
city
where there is a pestilence, nor to come out from it. The
lawfulness
of quarantine is contested among Muslims; but the
generality of them condemn it.
2 Literally, “your hands;”
but in the Commentary of the Geláleyn, the
meaning is said
to be “yourselves.”
The same belief in predestination renders the Muslim utterly
devoid of
presumption with regard to his future actions, or to
any future events. He
never speaks of anything that he intends
to do, or of any circumstance
which he expects and hopes may
come to pass, without adding, “If
it be the will of God;” and,
in like manner, in speaking of a
past event of which he is not
certain, he generally prefaces or concludes
what he says with the
expression “God is all-knowing (or,
“—most knowing.”)
Benevolence and charity to the poor are virtues which the
Egyptians possess
in an eminent degree, and which are instilled
into their hearts by
religion; but from their own profession it
appears that they are as much
excited to the giving of alms by
the expectation of enjoying corresponding
rewards in heaven, as
by pity for the distresses of their fellow-creatures,
or a disinterested
wish to do the will of God. It may be attributed,
in
some measure, to the charitable disposition of the inhabitants,
that beggars are so numerous in
Cairo. The many handsome
“Sebeels,” or public fountains (buildings erected and
endowed
for the gratuitous supply of water to passengers), which are
seen
in this city, and the more humble structures of the same kind in
the villages and fields, are monuments of the same virtue.
In my earlier intercourse with the people of Egypt, I was much
pleased at
observing their humanity to dumb animals; to see a
person, who gathered
together the folds of his loose clothes to
prevent their coming in contact
with a dog, throw, to the impure
animal, a portion of the bread which he
was eating. Murders,
burglaries, and other atrocious crimes, were then very
rare among

them. Now, however, I find the
generality of the Egyptians very
much changed for the worse, with respect
to their humanity to
brutes and to their fellow-creatures. The increased
severity of
the government seems, as might be expected, to have
engendered
tyranny, and an increase of every crime, in the people: but I
am
inclined to think that the conduct of Europeans has greatly
conduced
to produce this effect; for I do not remember to have seen
acts of cruelty to dumb animals excepting in places where Franks
either
reside or are frequent visitors, as
Alexandria,
Cairo, and
Thebes. It is
shocking to see the miserable asses which are
used for carrying dust, etc.,
in
Cairo; many of them with large
crimson wounds, like carbuncles,
constantly chafed by rough
ropes of the fibres of the palm-tree which are
attached to the
back part of the pack-saddle. The dogs in the streets are
frequently
beaten, both by boys and men, from mere wantonness;
and I
often see children amusing themselves with molesting the
cats, which were
formerly much favoured.
1 Robberies and murders,
during two or three months after my last
arrival here, were
occurrences of almost every week. Most of the Turkish
governors
of districts used to exercise great oppression over the
felláheen:
but since persons of the latter class have been put
in the places
of the former, they have exceeded their predecessors in
tyranny;
and it is a common remark, that they are “more
execrable than
the Turks.”
2
1 I think it proper to remark here, that I have
good reason for believing
Burckhardt to have been misinformed when
stating (see his “Arabic Proverbs,”
No. 393) that
children in the East (in Egypt, etc.) torture serpents by putting
them
into a leather bag, then throwing unslaked lime upon them, and pouring
water on it. I find no one who has heard of such cruelty; and it is not
likely
that boys in this country would dare to put a serpent in a bag
(for they are
excessively afraid of this reptile), or would give
several piasters for a bag to
destroy in this manner. The proverb upon
which this statement is founded
perhaps alludes to a mode of destroying
serpents; but not for sport.
2 “The oppression of the Turks,
rather than the justice of the Arabs,” is
a proverb often
heard from the mouth of the Arab peasant; who, in this case,
applies
the term “Arabs” to his own class, instead of the
Bedawees, to whom
it now usually belongs. See Burckhardt's
“Arabic Proverbs,” No. 176.
Though I now frequently see the houseless dogs beaten in the
streets of
Cairo, and that when quite inoffensive and quiet, I still
often observe men
feeding them with bread, etc.; and the persons
who do so are mostly poor
men. In every district of this city are
many small troughs, which are daily
replenished with water for the
dogs. In each street where there are shops,
a sakka receives a

small monthly sum from each shopman
for sprinkling the street,
and filling the trough or troughs for the dogs
in that street. There
is also a dogs'-trough under almost every shop of a
sharbetlee, or
seller of sherbets.—It may here be mentioned,
that the dogs of
Cairo, few of which have masters, compose regular and
distinct
tribes; and the dogs of each tribe confine themselves to a
certain
district or quarter, from which they invariably chase away any
strange dog that may venture to intrude. These animals are very
numerous in
Cairo. They are generally careful to avoid coming
in contract with the men;
as if they knew that the majority of the
people of the city regard them as
unclean: but they often bark at
persons in the Frank dress; and at night
they annoy every passenger.
They are of use in eating the offal thrown out
from the
butchers' shops, and from houses. Many dogs also prowl about
the mounds of rubbish around the metropolis; and these, with
the vultures,
feed upon the carcases of the camels, asses, etc., that
die in the town.
They are mostly of a sandy colour; and seem
to partake of the form and
disposition of the jackal.
The general opinion of the Muslims, which holds the dog to
be unclean, does
not prevent their keeping this animal as a house-guard,
and sometimes even
as a pet. A curious case of this kind
occurred a short time ago. A woman in
this city, who had neither
husband nor child nor friend to solace her, made
a dog her companion.
Death took this only associate from her; and, in her
grief
and her affection for it, she determined to bury it; and not
merely
to commit it to the earth without ceremony, but to inter it as a
Muslim,
in a respectable tomb, in the cemetery of the Imám
Esh-Sháfe'ee,
which is regarded as especially sacred. She washed
the dog
according to the rules prescribed to be observed in the case of
a
deceased Muslim, wrapped it in handsome grave-clothes, sent
for a
bier, and put it in; then hired several wailing-women; and,
with them,
performed a regular lamentation. This done (but
not without exciting the
wonder of her neighbours, who could
not conjecture what person in her house
was dead, yet would not
intrude, because she never associated with them),
she hired a
number of chanters, to head the funeral-procession, and
school-
boys, to sing, and carry the Kur-án before the bier; and
the train
went forth in respectable order; herself and the hired
wailing-women
following the bier, and rending the air with their
shrieks:
but the procession had not advanced many steps, when one of
the
female neighbours ventured to ask the afflicted lady who the
person
was that was dead; and was answered, “It is my poor
child.”

The inquirer charged her with
uttering a falsehood; and the bereaved
lady confessed that it was her dog;
begging, at the same
time, that her inquisitive neighbour would not divulge
the
secret; but, for an Egyptian woman to keep a secret, and such
a
secret, was impossible: it was immediately made known to
the by-standers;
and a mob, in no good humour, soon collected,
and put a stop to the
funeral. The chanters and singing-boys and
wailing-women vented their rage
against their employer (as soon
as they had secured their money) for having
made fools of them;
and if the police had not interfered, she would
probably have
fallen a victim to popular fury.
1
1 D'Herbelot mentions a somewhat similar case,
in which a Turk, having
buried a favourite dog with some marks of
respect, in his garden, was accused,
before the Kádee, of
having interred the animal with the ceremonies practised
at the burial
of a Muslim, and escaped punishment (perhaps a severe one) by
informing
the judge that his dog had made a will, leaving to him (the
Kádee)
a sum of money.—(Bibliothèque
Orientale, art. Cadhi.)
It is a curious fact, that, in
Cairo, houseless cats are fed at the
expense
of the Kádee; or, rather, almost wholly at his expense.
Every
afternoon, a quantity of offal is brought into the great court
before the
Mahkem'eh; and the cats are called together to eat.
The Sultán
Ez-Záhir Beybars (as I learn from the Básh
Kátib of
the Kádee) bequeathed a garden, which is
called “gheyt el-kuttah”
(or the garden of the cat),
near his mosque, on the north of
Cairo, for the benefit of the cats: but
this garden has been sold,
over and over again, by the trustees and
purchasers: the former
sold it on pretence of its being too much out of
order to be rendered
productive, excepting at a considerable expense; and
it
now produces only a “hekr” (or quit-rent) of
fifteen piasters a
year, to be applied to the maintenance of the destitute
cats. Almost
the whole expense of their support has, in consequence,
fallen upon the Kádee, who, by reason of his office, is the
guardian
of this and all other charitable and pious legacies, and must
suffer
for the neglect of his predecessors. Latterly, however, the
duty
of feeding the cats has been very inadequately performed. Many
persons in
Cairo, when they wish to get rid of a cat, send or take
it to
the Kádee's house, and let it loose in the great court.
The affability of the Egyptians towards each other has been
mentioned in a
preceding chapter. Towards foreigners who do
not conform with their manners
and customs, and profess the
same way of thinking, they are polite in their
address, but cold
and reserved, or parasitical, in conversation. With such
persons,

and even among themselves, they
often betray much impertinent
curiosity. They are generally extremely
afraid of making to
themselves enemies; and this fear frequently induces
them to
uphold each other, even when it is criminal to do so.
Cheerfulness is another remarkable characteristic of this people.
Some of
them profess a great contempt for frivolous amusements;
but most take
pleasure in such pastimes; and it is surprising to
see how easily they are
amused: wherever there are crowds,
noise, and bustle, they are delighted.
In their public festivals,
there is little to amuse a person of good
education; but the
Egyptians enjoy them as much as we do the best of our
entertainments.
Those of the lower orders seem to be extremely happy
with their pipes and coffee, after the occupations of the day, in
the
society of the coffee-shop.
Hospitality is a virtue for which the natives of the East in general
are
highly and deservedly admired; and the people of Egypt are
well entitled to
commendation on this account. A word which
signifies literally
“a person on a journey”
(“musáfir”) is the term
most commonly
employed in this country in the sense of a visitor
or guest. There are very
few persons here who would think of
sitting down to a meal, if there were a
stranger in the house, without
inviting him to partake of it, unless the
latter were a menial;
in which case, he would be invited to eat with the
servants. It
would be considered a shameful violation of good manners if
a
Muslim abstained from ordering the table to be prepared at the
usual
time because a visitor happened to be present. Persons of
the middle
classes in this country, if living in a retired situation,
sometimes take
their supper before the door of their house, and
invite every passenger of
respectable appearance to eat with them.
This is very commonly done among
the lower orders. In cities
and large towns, claims on hospitality are
unfrequent; as there
are many wekálehs, or kháns,
where strangers may obtain lodging;
and food is very easily procured: but
in the villages, travellers
are often lodged and entertained by the Sheykh
or some other
inhabitant; and if the guest be a person of the middle or
higher
classes, or even not very poor, he gives a present to his host's
servants,
or to the host himself. In the desert, however, a present
is
seldom received from a guest. By a Sunneh law, a traveller
may claim
entertainment, of any person able to afford it to him,
for three
days.—The account of Abraham's entertaining the three
angels,
related in the Bible, presents a perfect picture of the manner
in which a
modern Bedawee sheykh receives travellers arriving

at his encampment. He immediately
orders his wife or women
to make bread; slaughters a sheep or some other
animal, and
dresses it in haste; and bringing milk and any other
provisions
that he may have ready at hand, with the bread, and the
meat
which he has dressed, sets them before his guests. If these be
persons of high rank, he stands by them while they eat; as Abraham
did in
the case above alluded to. Most Bedawees will suffer
almost any injury to
themselves or their families rather than allow
their guests to be
ill-treated while under their protection. There
are Arabs who even regard
the chastity of their wives as not too
precious to be sacrificed for the
gratification of their guests;
1 and
at an encampment of the
Bisháreen, I ascertained that there are
many persons in this
great tribe (which inhabits a large portion of
the desert between the Nile
and the
Red Sea) who offer their unmarried
daughters to their guests,
merely from motives of hospitality,
and not for hire.
1 See Burckhardt's Notes on the Bedouins, etc.,
8vo edition, vol. i. pp. 179
and 180.
There used to be, in
Cairo, a numerous class of persons called
“Tufeyleeyeh,” or “Tufeylees” (that
is, Spungers), who, taking
advantage of the hospitality of their
countrymen, subsisted entirely
by spunging: but this class has, of late,
very much decreased in
number. Wherever there was an entertainment, some of
these
worthies were almost sure to be found; and it was only by a
present of money that they could be induced to retire from the
company.
They even travelled about the country, without the
smallest coin in their
pockets, intruding themselves into private
houses whenever they wanted a
meal, or practising various tricks
for this purpose. Two of them, I was
told, a little while since,
determined to go to the festival of the seyyid
El-Bedawee, at
Tanta; an easy journey of two days and a half from
Cairo.
Walking at their leisure, they arrived at the small town of
Kalyoob
at the end of their first day's journey; and there found
themselves
at a loss for a supper. One of them went to the
Kádee; and,
after saluting him, said—“O
Kádee, I am a traveller from the
Sharkeeyeh, going to
Masr; and
I have a companion who owes
me fifty purses, which he has with him at
present, and refuses to
give me; and I am actually in want of
them.” “Where is he?”
said the
Kádee. “Here, in this town,” answered the
complainant.
The Kádee sent a rasool to bring the accused; and
in the
meantime, expecting considerable fees for a judgment in such a
case, ordered a good supper to be prepared; which Kádees of

country towns or villages generally
do under similar circumstances.
The two men were invited to sup and sleep
before the case was
tried. Next morning, the parties were examined: the
accused
admitted that he had in his possession the fifty purses of his
companion;
and said that he was ready to give them up; for they
were
and encumbrance to him, being only the paper purses in
which coffee was
sold. “We are Tufeyless,” he added; and
the
Kádee, in anger, dismissed them.
The natives of Egypt in general, in common with the Arabs of
other
countries, are (according to our system of morals) justly
chargeable with a
fault which is regarded by us as one of great
magnitude: it is want of
gratitude.
1 But
this I am inclined to
consider a relic of the Bedawee character; and as
arising from
the very common practice of hospitality and generosity, and
from
the prevailing opinion that these virtues are absolute duties
which
it would be disgraceful and sinful to neglect.
1 It has been remarked that this is inconsistent
with the undeniable gratitude
which the Arabs feel towards God. To such
an objection they would reply,
“We are entitled to the good
offices of our fellow-creatures by the law of God;
but can claim no
benefit from our Maker.” I once afforded a refuge to a
Bedawee who was in fear for his life; but on parting, he gave me not a
word
of thanks: had he done so, it would have implied his thinking me a
person of
mean disposition, who regarded a positive duty as an act
imposing obligation.
Hence the Arab usually acknowledges a benefit
merely by a prayer for the
long life, etc., of his benefactor.
The temperance and moderation of the Egyptians, with regard
to diet, are
very exemplary. Since my first arrival in Egypt, I
have scarcely ever seen
a native of this country in a state of
intoxication; unless it were a
musician at an entertainment, or a
dancing girl, or a low prostitute. It
hardly need be added that
they are extremely frugal. They show a great
respect for bread,
as the staff of life,
2 and on no account suffer the smallest
portion
of it to be wasted, if they can avoid it. I have often observed
an
Egyptian take up a small piece of bread, which had by accident
fallen in the street or road, and, after putting it before his lips
and
forehead three times, place it on one side, in order that a dog
might eat
it, rather than let it remain to be trodden under foot.
The following
instance of the excessive and unreasonable respect
of the Egyptians for
bread has been related to me by several
persons; but I must say that I
think it hardly credible.—Two
servants were sitting at the door
of their master's house, eating
2 The name which they give to it is
“'eysh,” which literally signifies
“life.”

their dinner, when they observed a
Memlook Bey, with several of
his officers, riding along the street towards
them. One of these
servants rose, from respect to the grandee, who,
regarding him
with indignation, exclaimed, “Which is the more
worthy of
respect, the bread that is before you, or myself?”
Without
waiting for a reply, he made, it is said, a well-understood
signal
with his hand; and the unintending offender was beheaded on
the
spot.
The higher and middle orders of Muslims in Egypt are scrupulously
cleanly;
and the lower orders are more so than in most
other countries: but were not
cleanliness a point of their religion,
perhaps it would not be so much
regarded by them. From what
has been said in a former chapter of this
work,
1 it
appears that
we must not judge of them, with respect to this quality, from
the
dirty state in which they generally leave their children. Their
religious ablutions were, certainly, very wisely ordained; personal
cleanliness being so conducive to health in a hot climate. The
Egyptians in
general are particularly careful to avoid whatever
their religion has
pronounced unclean and polluting. One of
their objections against wine is,
that it is unclean; and I believe
that very few of them, if any, could be
induced by any means,
unless by a considerable bribe, to eat the smallest
piece of pig's
flesh; excepting the peasants of the Boheyreh (the province
on
the west of the western branch of the Nile), many of whom eat
the
flesh of the wild boar, and rats.
2 I was once amused with
the remark of a Muslim,
on the subject of pork: he observed that
the Franks were certainly a much
calumniated people: that it was
well known they were in the habit of eating
swine's flesh; but
that some slanderous persons here asserted that it was
not only
the flesh of the unclean beast that was eaten by the Franks,
but
also its skin, and its entrails, and its very blood. On being
answered that the accusation was too true, he burst forth with a
most
hearty curse upon the infidels, devoting them to the lowest
place in hell.
2 Dogs, too, are eaten by many Maghrab'ees
settled at Alexandria, and by
descendants of the same people; of whom
there are also a few in Cairo, in the
quarter of Teyloon.
Many of the butchers who supply the Muslim inhabitants of
the metropolis
with meat are Jews. A few years ago, one of the
principal 'ulama here
complained of this fact to the Básha; and
begged him to put a
stop to it. Another of the 'ulama, hearing

that this person had gone to make
the complaint above mentioned,
followed him, and urged, before the
Básha, that the
practice was not unlawful. “Adduce
your proof,” said the former.
“Here,”
answered the other, “is my proof, from the word of God
—‘Eat of that whereon the name of God hath been
commemorated.'”
1
The chief of the Jewish butchers was then summoned,
and asked whether
he said anything previously to slaughtering
an animal: he answered,
“Yes: we always say, as the Muslims,
‘In the name of
God! God is most great!' and we never kill an
animal in any other way than
by cutting its throat.”—The complaint
was
consequently dismissed.
1 Kur-án, chap. vi., ver. 118.
A few days ago, a man, purchasing a fateereh of a baker in this
city, saw
him take out of his oven a dish of pork which he had been
baking for a
Frank; and, supposing that the other things in the
oven might have been in
contact with the unclean meat, and
thus contaminated, immediately brought a
soldier from the nearest
guard-house, and caused the baker (who was in no
slight alarm,
and protested that he was ignorant of there being any pig's
flesh
in his oven) to be conducted before the Zábit. This
magistrate
considered the case of sufficient importance to be referred to
the
Básha's deewán; and the president of this council
regarded it as
of too serious and difficult a nature for him to decide, and
accordingly
sent the accused to be judged at the Mahkem'eh. The
Kádee desired the opinion of the Muftee, who gave the following
sentence:—That all kinds of food, not essentially or radically
impure,
were purified, of any pollution which they might have
contracted,
by fire; and consequently, that whatever thing of this
description was in the oven, even if it had been in contact with
the pork,
was clean as soon as it had been baked.
A short time since the Básha received, from Europe, a set of
mattresses and cushions stuffed with horse-hair, to form a
deewán
for his hareem. The ladies opened one of the cushions,
to
ascertain what was the substance which rendered them so agreeably
elastic; and, disgusted in the highest degree at seeing what
they supposed
to be hogs' hair, insisted upon throwing away the
whole deewán.
A Frenchman who was employed here, a few years ago, to
refine sugar, by the
present Básha, made use of blood for this
purpose; and since
that, very few of the people of this country
have ventured to eat any sugar
made by the Franks: the Básha
was also obliged to prohibit the
use of blood in his own sugar-bakeries;

and the white of eggs has been
employed in its stead.
Some of the Egyptians, seeing the European sugar to
be very
superior to that made here, use it; holding the doctrine that
what
is originally clean may become clean again after pollution: but I
am obliged to keep the coarse Egyptian sugar for the purpose of
making
sherbet for my visitors; some of whom hold long discussions
with me on this
subject.
It is a general custom among the Egyptians, after washing
clothes, to pour
clean water upon them, and to say, in doing so,
“I testify that
there is no deity but God; and I testify that
Mohammad is God's
Apostle.”
1 In speaking of their religion, I
have mentioned several other
practices instituted for the sake of
cleanliness; most of which are
universally observed. But, notwithstanding
these cleanly practices and
principles, and their
custom of frequently going to the bath, the Egyptians
do not
change their linen so often as some people of more northern
climates, who need not so much to do this frequently: they often
go to the
bath in a dirty shirt, and, after a thorough washing, put
on the same
again.
1 To express that a person has done this, they
say, “sháhad el-hawïig,”
for “ghasal el-hawáïg wa-teshahhad
'aleyha.”
Filial piety is one of the more remarkable virtues of this people.
The
outward respect which they pay to their parents I have
already had occasion
to mention. Great respect is also shown
by the young to those far advanced
in age;
2
particularly to such
as are reputed men of great piety or learning.
Love of their country, and more especially of
home, is
another
predominant characteristic of the modern Egyptians. In
general,
they have a great dread of quitting their native land. I have
heard of several determining to visit a foreign country, for the
sake of
considerable advantages in prospect; but when the time
of their intended
departure drew near, their resolution failed them.
Severe oppression has
lately lessened this feeling; which is doubtless
owing, in a great degree,
to ignorance of foreign lands and
their inhabitants. It was probably from
the same feeling prevailing
among the Arabs of his time, that Mohammad was
induced to
promise such high rewards in a future world to those who
fled
their country for the sake of his religion. I have heard it
remarked
as a proof of the extraordinary love which the Egyptians
have
for their native place, that a woman or girl in this country
will seldom
consent, or her parents allow her, to marry a man
who will not promise to
reside with her in her native town or

village; but I rather think that
the reluctance to change the
place of abode in this case arises from the
risk which the female
incurs of wanting the protection of her relations.
The Bedawees
are so attached to their deserts, and have so great a contempt
for
people who reside in towns, and for agriculturists, that it is a
matter of surprise that so many of them were induced to settle
even upon
the fertile banks of the Nile. The modern Egyptians,
though mostly
descended from Bedawees, while they resemble
their ancestors in love of
their
native country, have a horror of
the desert.
One journey in the desert furnishes them with tales
of exaggerated
hardships, perils, and wonders, which they are
extremely fond of relating
to their less experienced countrymen.
Indolence pervades all classes of the Egyptians, excepting those
who are
obliged to earn their livelihood by severe manual labour.
It is the result
of the climate, and of the fecundity of the soil.
Even the mechanics, who
are extremely greedy of gain, will
generally spend two days in a work which
they might easily
accomplish in one; and will leave the most lucrative
employment
to idle away their time with the pipe: but the porter, the
groom,
who runs before his master's horse, and the boatmen, who are
often employed in towing the vessels up the river during calm and
very hot
weather, as well as many other labourers, endure extreme
fatigue.
The Egyptians are also excessively obstinate. I have mentioned,
in a former
chapter, that they have been notorious, from
ancient times, that is, from
the period of the Roman domination,
for refusing to pay their taxes until
they have been severely
beaten; and that they often boast of the number of
stripes which
they have received before they would part with their
money.
Such conduct is very common among them. I was once told,
that a
felláh, from whom the value of about four shillings was
demanded
by his governor, endured so severe a bastinading rather
than pay this
paltry sum, which he declared he did not possess,
that the governor ordered
him to be dismissed; but, striking him
on his face as he limped away, there
fell out of his mouth a gold
coin of the exact value of the sum demanded of
him; so that
his beating, terrible as it was, fell short of what was
necessary
to make him pay. This disposition seems a strange
peculiarity
in their character; but it is easily accounted for by the
fact
that they know very well, the more readily they pay, the more
will be exacted from them. In other respects, however, they are
extremely
obstinate and difficult to govern; though very obsequious

in their manners and professions.
It is seldom that an
Egyptian workman can be induced to make a thing
exactly to
order: he will generally follow his own opinion in preference
to
that of his employer; and will scarcely ever finish his work by
the
time he has promised.
Though very submissive to their governors, the felláheen of
Egypt
are not deficient in courage when excited by feuds among
each other; and
they become excellent soldiers.
In sensuality, as far as it relates to the indulgence of libidinous
passions, the Egyptians, as well as other natives of hot climates,
certainly exceed more northern nations; yet this excess is not to
be
attributed merely to the climate, but more especially to the
institution of
polygamy, to the facility with which divorcements
are accomplished whenever
a man may wish to marry a new wife,
and to the custom of concubinage. It is
even said, and, I believe
with truth, that, in this respect, they exceed
the neighbouring
nations, whose religion and civil institutions are
similar;
1 and
that
their country still deserves the appellation of “the abode
of the
wicked,” which, in the Kur-án,
2 is, according to
the best commentators,
applied to ancient Egypt, if we take the word
here
translated “wicked” in its more usual modern
sense of “debauchees.”
—A vice for which
the Memlooks who governed Egypt
were infamous was so spread by them in this
country as to become
not less rare here than in almost any other country of
the East;
but of late years, it is said to have much decreased.
1 This is not meant to reflect upon the Turks,
nor upon the Arabs of the
desert.
The most immodest freedom of conversation is indulged in by
persons of both
sexes, and of every station of life, in Egypt; even by
the most virtuous
and respectable women, with the exception of a
very few, who often make use
of coarse language, but not unchaste.
From persons of the best education,
expressions are often heard
so obscene as only to be fit for a low brothel;
and things are
named, and subjects talked of, by the most genteel women,
without
any idea of their being indecorous, in the hearing of men,
that
many prostitutes in our country would abstain from mentioning.
The women of Egypt have the character of being the most
licentious in their
feelings of all females who lay any claim to be
considered as members of a
civilized nation; and this character
is freely bestowed upon them by their
countrymen, even in conversation
with foreigners. Numerous exceptions
doubtless exist;
and I am happy to insert the following words translated
from a

note by my friend the sheykh
Mohammad 'Eiyád Et-Tantáwee,
on a passage in
“The Thousand and One Nights.” “Many
persons reckon marrying a second time among the greatest of
disgraceful
actions. This opinion is most common in the
country-towns and villages; and
the relations of my mother are
thus characterized, so that a woman of them,
when her husband
dies while she is young, or divorces her while she is
young, passes
her life, however long it may be, in widowhood, and never
marries
a second time.”—But with respect to the
majority of the Egyptian
women, it must, I fear, be allowed, that they are
very licentious.
What liberty they have, many of them, it is said, abuse;
and
most of them are not considered safe, unless under lock and key;
to which restraint few are subjected. It is believed that they
possess a
degree of cunning in the management of their intrigues
that the most
prudent and careful husband cannot guard against;
and, consequently, that
their plots are seldom frustrated, however
great may be the apparent risk
of the undertakings in which
they engage. Sometimes, the husband himself is
made the unconscious
means of gratifying his wife's criminal
propensities.
Some of the stories of the intrigues of women in
“The Thousand
and One Nights” present faithful
pictures of occurrences not unfrequent
in the modern metropolis of Egypt.
Many of the men
of this city are of opinion that almost all the women
would
intrigue if they could do so without danger; and that the
greater
proportion of them do. I should be sorry to think that the
former opinion was just; and I am almost persuaded that it is
over-severe,
because it appears, from the customs with regard to
women generally
prevailing here, that the latter must be false.
The difficulty of carrying
on an intrigue with a female in this
place can hardly be conceived by a
person who is not moderately
well acquainted with Eastern customs and
habits. It is not only
difficult for a woman of the middle or higher
classes to admit her
paramour into the house in which she resides, but it
is almost
impossible for her to have a private interview with a man
who
has a hareem in his own house; or to enter the house of a man
who
is neither married nor has a concubine-slave, without attracting
the notice
of the neighbours, and causing their immediate
interference. But, as it
cannot be denied that many of the
women of Egypt engage in intrigues
notwithstanding such risks,
it may be supposed that the difficulties which
lie in the way are
the chief bar to most others. Among the females of the
lower
orders, intrigues are more easily accomplished, and frequent.

The libidinous character of the generality of the women of
Egypt, and the
licentious conduct of a great number of them, may
be attributed to many
causes; partly to the climate, and partly to
their want of proper
instruction, and of innocent pastimes and
employments:
1 but it is more to
be attribute to the conduct of
the husbands themselves; and to conduct far
more disgraceful
to them than the utmost severity that any of them is
known
to exercise in the regulations of his hareem. The generality of
husbands in Egypt endeavour to increase the libidinous feelings of
their
wives by every means in their power; though, at the same
time, they
assiduously study to prevent their indulging those feelings
unlawfully. The
women are permitted to listen, screened
behind their windows of wooden
lattice-work to immoral songs
and tales sung or related in the streets by
men whom they pay
for this entertainment; and to view the voluptuous dance
of the
ghawázee, and of the effeminate khäwals. The
ghawázee, who are
professed prostitutes, are not unfrequently
introduced into the
hareems of the wealthy, not merely to entertain the
ladies with
their dances, but to teach them their voluptuous arts; and
even
indecent puppets are sometimes brought into such hareems for
the
amusement of the inmates.—Innumerable stories of the
artifices
and intrigues of the women of Egypt have been related
to me. The following
narratives of late occurrences will serve as
specimens.
1 In the first edition of the present work, I
included, among these supposed
causes, the degree of restraint imposed
upon the women, and their seclusion
from open intercourse with the
other sex. This I did, not because confinement
is said to have this
effect in the West, where, being contrary to general
custom, it is felt
as an oppression, but because the assertion of the Egyptians,
that the
Eastern women in general are more licentiously disposed than the
men,
seemed to be an argument against the main principle of the constitution
of Eastern society. I did not consider that this argument is at least
counterbalanced
by what I have before mentioned, that the women who are
commonly
considered the most licentious (namely,
those of Egypt) are those who
are said to have most
licence.
A slave-dealer, who had been possessed of property which enabled
him to live
in comfort, but had lost the greater part of it,
married a young and
handsome woman in this city, who had
sufficient wealth to make up for his
losses. He soon, however,
neglected her; and as he was past the prime of
life, she became
indifferent to him, and placed her affections upon another
man, a
dustman, who had been in the habit of coming to her house.
She
purchased for this person a shop close by her house; gave

him a sum of money to enable him to
pursue a less degraded
occupation, as a seller of grain and fodder; and
informed him that
she had contrived a plan for his visiting her in perfect
security.
Her hareem had a window with hanging shutters; and almost
close before this window rose a palm-tree, out-topping the house.
This
tree, she observed, would afford her lover a means of access
to her, and of
egress from her apartment in case of danger. She
had only one servant, a
female, who engaged to assist her in the
accomplishment of her desires.
Previously to her lover's first
visit to her, she desired the servant to
inform her husband of
what was about to take place in the ensuing night. He
determined
to keep watch; and having told his wife that he was going
out, and should not return that night, concealed himself in a lower
apartment. At night, the maid came to tell him that the visitor
was in the
hareem. He went up, but found the hareem-door shut.
On his trying to open
it, his wife screamed; her lover, at the same
time, escaping from the
window, by means of the palm-tree. She
called to her
neighbours,—“Come to my assistance! Pray come!
There
is a robber in my house!” Several of them soon came;
and finding
her locked in her room, and her husband outside the
door, told her there
was nobody in the house but her husband and
maid. She said that the man
they called her husband was a
robber: that her husband was gone to sleep
out. The latter then
informed them of what had passed, and insisted that a
man was
with her: he broke open the door, and searched the room; but,
finding no man, was reprimanded by his neighbours, and abused
by his wife
for uttering a slander. The next day, his wife, taking
with her, as
witnesses of his having accused her of a criminal intrigue,
two of the
neighbours who had come in on hearing her
screams for assistance, arraigned
her husband at the Mahkem'eh
as the slanderer of a virtuous woman without
the evidence of his
own sight or of other witnesses. Being convicted of
this offence,
he was punished with eighty stripes, in accordance with the
ordinance
of the Kur-án.
1 His wife now asked him if he would
divorce her;
but he refused. For three days after this event, they
lived peaceably
together. On the third night, the wife, having
invited her lover to visit
her, bound her husband hand and foot,
while he was asleep, and tied him
down to the mattress. Shortly
after, her lover came up, and, waking the
husband, threatened him
with instant death if he should call, and remained
with the wife for
several hours, in his presence. As soon as the intruder
had gone,

the husband was unbound by his
wife, and called out to his neighbours,
beating her at the same time with
such violence that she,
also, began to call for assistance. The neighbours
coming in, and
seeing him in a fury, easily believed her assertion that he
had become
raving mad, and, trying to soothe him with kind words, and
prayers that God would restore him to sanity, liberated her from
his grasp.
She procured, as soon as possible, a rasool from the
Kádee; and
went, with him and her husband and several of her
neighbours who had
witnessed the beating that she had received,
before the judge. The
neighbours unanimously declared their
opinion that her husband was mad; and
the Kádee ordered that
he should be conveyed to the
Máristán
1 (or common mad-house):
but the wife, affecting
to pity him, begged that she might be allowed
to chain him in an apartment
in her house, that she might
alleviate his sufferings by waiting upon him.
The Kádee assented,
praising the benevolence of the woman, and
praying that God
might reward her. She accordingly procured an iron collar
and
a chain from the Máristán, and chained him in a
lower apartment
of her house. Every night, in his presence, her lover
visited her:
after which she importuned him in vain to divorce her; and
when
the neighbours came in daily to ask how he was, the only answer
he received to his complaints and accusations against his wife
was—“God
restore thee! God restore thee!”
Thus he continued
about a month; and his wife, finding that he still
persisted in
refusing to divorce her, sent for a keeper of the
Máristán to take
him. The neighbours came round as he
left the house: one
exclaimed, “There is no strength nor power
but in God! God
restore thee!”—another said,
“How sad! He was really a
worthy man:”—a
third remarked, “Bádingáns
2 are very
abundant
just now.”—While he was confined in the
Máristán, his wife
came daily to him, and asked him
if he would divorce her. On
his answering “No,” she
said, “Then chained you may lie until
you die; and my lover
shall come to me constantly.” At length,
after seven months'
confinement, he consented to divorce her;
upon which she procured his
liberation, and he fulfilled his promise.
Her lover was of too low a grade
to become her husband,
so she remained unmarried, and received him whenever
she
pleased; but the maid revealed the true history of this affair,
and
it soon became a subject of common talk.
1 Vulgarly called
“Muristán.”
2 Madness is said to be more common and more
violent in Egypt when the
black bádingán (or
black egg-plant) is in season; that is, in the hot weather.

When the wife of a man of wealth or rank engages in a criminal
intrigue,
both she and her paramour generally incur great danger.
1
—Last year, the wife of an officer of high rank in the army
took advantage
of the absence of her husband from the metropolis
(where
he always resided with her when not on military duty) to invite
a
Christian merchant, of whom she had been in the habit of buying
silks, to pay her a visit. He went to her house at the time
appointed, and
found a eunuch at the door, who took him to
another house, disguised him in
the loose outer garments and veil
of a lady, and then brought him back, and
introduced him to his
mistress. He passed nearly the whole of the night
with her; and,
rising before she awoke, put into his pocket a purse which
he had
given her, and went down to the eunuch, who conducted him
again
to the house where he had put on his disguise: having
here resumed his own
outer clothes, he repaired to his shop.
Soon after, the lady, who had
missed the purse, came and taxed
him with having taken it: she told him
that she did not want
money, but only desired his company; and begged him
to come
to her again in the ensuing evening, which he promised to do:
but in the afternoon, a female servant from the house of this lady
came to
his shop, and told him that her mistress had mixed some
poison in a bottle
of water which she had ordered to be given him
to drink.—This
mode of revenge is said to have been often adopted
when the woman's
paramour has given her even a slight offence.
1 “How many men, in Masr,”
said one of my friends to me, “have lost their
lives on
account of women! A very handsome young libertine, who lived in
this
house which you now occupy, was beheaded here in the street, before his
own door, for an intrigue with the wife of a Bey, and all the women of
Masr
wept for him.”
It is seldom that the wife of a Muslim is guilty of a criminal
intrigue
without being punished with death if there be four
witnesses to the fact,
and they or the husband prosecute her;
and not always does she escape this
punishment if she be detected
by any of the officers of justice: in the
latter case, four
witnesses are not required, and often the woman, if of a
respectable
family, is put to death, generally in private, on the mere
arbitrary authority of the government: but a bribe will sometimes
save her;
for it will always be accepted, if it can with safety.
Drowning is the
punishment now almost always inflicted, publicly,
upon women convicted of
adultery in
Cairo and other large towns
of Egypt, instead of that ordained
by the law, which is stoning.—A
few months ago, a poor woman of
this city married a man

whose trade was that of selling
fowls, and, while living with him
and her mother, took three other
lodgings, and married three
other husbands; all of whom were generally
absent from the
metropolis: so she calculated that when any of these three
persons
came to town for a few days, she might easily find an excuse
to
go to him. They happened, unfortunately for her, to come to
town on
the same day; and all of them went, the same evening,
to inquire for her at
her mother's house. Being much embarrassed
by their presence, and her first
husband being also
with her, she feigned to be ill, and soon to become
insensible;
and was taken, by her mother, to an inner room. One of the
husbands proposed to give her something to restore her: another
wished to
try a different remedy: they began to contend which
was the best medicine;
and one of them said, “I shall give her
what I please: is not
she my wife?” “Your wife!” exclaimed
each
of the three other husbands at the same time: “she is
my
wife.”—Each proved his marriage: the woman was taken
to the
Mahkem'eh; tried; condemned to death; and thrown into the
Nile.—Some time ago, when I was before in this country, a
similar case occurred: a woman married three soldiers, of the
nizám, or regular troops. She was buried in a hole, breast-deep,
and then shot.
A woman may sometimes, but very rarely, trust in palliating
circumstances,
or the support of powerful friends, to save her
from the penalty of death,
in case of her detection in a criminal
intercourse; as in the following
instance.—The Básha, last year,
gave one of the
slaves in his hareem in marriage to a rich slave-merchant,
from whom he had
purchased many of his memlooks
and female slaves. This man was not only
unfaithful to her, but
utterly neglected her; and she, in consequence,
formed an improper
intimacy with a merchant of whom she was a frequent
customer. One day, when her husband was out, a black slave belonging
to him
happened to see a man's head at a small aperture
in a window of the hareem.
He immediately went up to search
the room of the wife; who, hearing him
coming, locked her
paramour in an adjoining closet. The slave broke open
the door
of the closet; and the man within rushed at him with a dagger
which he wore in his girdle; but the former seized the blade in
his hand;
and the woman held him until her lover had escaped:
she then kissed the
slave's hand, and implored him not to cause
her death by informing her
husband of what had passed: she,
however, found him inexorable: he
immediately went to his

master, showing his bleeding hand,
and telling him the cause of
the wound. The woman, meanwhile, fled to the
Básha's hareem,
for protection. Her husband demanded of the
Básha that she
should be given up, and put to death; and, the
request being
deemed a proper one, she was brought before her former
master
to answer for her crime. She threw herself at his feet; kissed
the skirt of his clothing; and acquainted him with her husband's
vicious
conduct, and his utter neglect of her; and the Básha,
feeling
himself insulted by the husband's conduct, spat in
his
face; and sent back the wife to his own hareem. Her paramour
did
not live long after this: he was smothered in the house of
some courtesans;
but none of these women was punished, as it
could not be proved which of
them committed the act.
For their sentiments with regard to women, and their general
conduct towards
the fair sex, the Egyptians, in common with other
Muslims, have been
reprehended with too great severity. It is
true that they do not consider
it necessary, or even delicate, to
consult the choice of a girl under age
previously to giving her
away in matrimony; but it is not less true that a
man of the
middle or higher classes, almost always, makes his choice of
a
wife from hearsay, or as a person blindfold; having no means of
seeing her until the contract is made and she is brought to his
house. It
is impossible, therefore, that there should be any
mutual attachment before
marriage. Both sexes, in truth, are
oppressed by tyrannical laws and
customs; but, happily, they
regard their chains as becoming and honourable:
they would feel
themselves disgraced by shaking them off. As to the
restraint
which is exercised towards the women, I have before remarked
that it is in a great degree voluntary on their part, and that
I believe it
to be less strict in Egypt than in any other country
of the Turkish empire:
it is certainly far less so than it has
been represented to be by many
persons. They generally look
upon this restraint with a degree of pride, as
evincing the husband's
care for them; and value themselves upon their
being
hidden as treasures.
1 In good society, it is considered highly
indecorous to inquire, in direct terms, respecting the health of a
friend's
wife, or of any female in his house, unless she be a relation
of the person
who makes the inquiry.—One of my Egyptian
acquaintances asking
another native of this country, who had
been in Paris, what was the most
remarkable thing that he had
1 A respectable female is generally addressed,
in a letter, as “the guarded
lady, and concealed
jewel” (“es-sitt el-masooneh wa-l-góharah
el-meknooneh”).

seen in the land of the infidels,
the latter, thinking lightly of all
that he had observed really worthy of
exciting the admiration of
an unprejudiced and a sensible man, gave the
following answer:—“I
witnessed nothing so remarkable
as this fact. It is a custom
of every person among the rich and great, in
Paris and other
cities of France, frequently to invite his friends and
acquaintances,
both men and women, to an entertainment in his house.
The
rooms in which the company are received are lighted with a great
number of candles and lamps. There, the men and women
assemble
promiscuously; the women, as you well know, unveiled;
and a man may sit
next to another's wife, whom he has never
seen before, and may walk, talk,
and even dance with her, in the
very presence of her own husband, who is
neither angry nor
jealous at such disgraceful conduct.”
The Egyptians are equally remarkable for generosity and
cupidity. That two
such opposite qualities should be united in
the same mind is not a little
surprising; but such is generally the
case with this people. An
overreaching and deceitful disposition
in commercial transactions, which is
too common among all
nations, is one of the most notorious faults of the
Egyptian: in
such cases, he seldom scruples to frame a falsehood which
may
better his bargain. Among people who groan beneath the yoke
of a
tyrannical and rapacious government (and such has long
been the government
of Egypt), a disposition to avarice invariably
predominates: for a man is
naturally most tenacious of that
which is most liable to be taken from him;
and hence the
oppressed Egyptian, when he has a sum of money which he
does
not require for necessary expenses, and cannot profitably employ,
generally lays it out in the purchase of ornaments for his wife or
wives;
which ornaments he can easily convert again into money.
Hence, also, it is
a common practice in this country (as it is, or
has been, in almost every
country under similar political circumstances)
for a man to hide treasure
in his house, under the paved
floor, or in some other part; and as many a
person who does so
dies suddenly, without being able to inform his family
where is
his “makhba,” or hiding-place, money is not
unfrequently discovered
on pulling down houses.—A vice near akin
to cupidity,
namely envy, I believe to be equally prevalent among the
modern
Egyptians, in common with the whole Arab race; for many of
them
are candid enough to confess their own opinion that this
hateful
disposition is almost wholly concentrated in the minds of
their nation.
The Egyptians are generally honest in the payment of debts.
Their Prophet
asserted that even martyrdom would not atone for
a debt undischarged. Few
of them ever accept interest for a loan
of money, as it is strictly
forbidden by their law.
Constant veracity is a virtue extremely rare in modern Egypt.
Falsehood was
commended by the Prophet when it tended to
reconcile
persons at variance with each other: also, when practised in
order to please one's wife; and to obtain any advantage in a war
with the
enemies of the faith: though highly reprobated in other
cases. This offers
some little palliation of the general practice of
lying which prevails
among the modern Arabs; for, if people
are allowed to lie in certain cases,
they insensibly contract a habit
of doing so in others. Though most of the
Egyptians often lie
designedly, they are seldom heard to retract an
unintentional
misstatement without expressing themselves
thus—“No: I beg
forgiveness of God: it was so and
so;” as, in stating anything of
which they are not quite
certain, they say, “God is all-knowing.”
I may here
mention (and I do it with some feeling of national
pride) that, some years
ago, there was an Armenian jeweller in
this city (
Cairo) so noted for his
veracity, that his acquaintances
determined to give him some appellation
significant of his possessing
a virtue so rare among them; and the name
they gave him
was “El-Ingileezee,” or
The Englishman, which has become his
family name. It
is common to hear tradesmen in this place,
when demanding a price which
they do not mean to abate, say,
“One word; the word of the
English:” they also often say,
“The word of the
Franks,” in this sense: but I have never heard
any particular
nation thus honourably distinguished excepting the
English and the
Maghrab'ees, or Western Arabs, which latter
people have acquired this
reputation by being rather more
veracious than most other Arabs.
I have before mentioned the practice of swearing by God
which prevails among
the Egyptians: I must here add, that
many of them scruple not to make use
of an oath with the view
of obtaining credit to a falsehood. In this case,
they sometimes
say, “Wa-lláhi!”
(“By God!”)—but more commonly,
“Wallah!”—for,
though the latter
expression has the same meaning
as the former, they pretend that it may
also be used as an
ejaculation in praise of God; whereas
“Wa-lláhi” is a decided
oath, and, if
uttered to a falsehood, is a heinous sin. Such an
oath, if violated, must
be expiated by once feeding or clothing
ten poor men, liberating a Muslim
slave or captive, or fasting

three days.
1 This, however, is the expiation
allowed by the
Kur-án only for an inconsiderate oath: yet the
modern Muslims
sometimes observe it in order to free themselves from the
guilt
of a deliberate false oath; and they generally prefer the fast
to
either of the other modes of expiation. There are some oaths
which,
I believe, few Muslims would falsely take; such as saying
three times,
“By God, the Great!”—and the oath upon the
mus-haf (or copy of the Kur-án)—saying, “By
what this contains
of the word of God!”—but a form of
oath that is still more to be
depended upon is that of saying,
“I impose upon myself divorcement”
(that is, the
divorce of my wife, if what I say be false);
or, “I impose upon
myself interdiction!” which has a similar
meaning
(“My wife be unlawful to me!”)—or,
“I impose upon
myself a triple
divorcement!”—which binds by the irrevocable
divorce
of the wife. If a man use any one of these three forms
of oath falsely, his
wife, if he have but one, is divorced by the
oath itself, if proved to be
false, without further ceremony; and
if he have two or more wives, he must,
under such circumstances,
choose one of them to put away. There are,
however, abandoned
liars who will swear falsely by the oath that is
generally held
most binding. A poet, speaking of a character of this
description,
says,—
“But Abu-l-Mo'alla is most false
1 Kur-án, chap. v., ver.
91.
When he swears by the oath of divorce.”
The generality of the Egyptians are easily excited to quarrel;
particularly
those of the lower orders, who, when enraged, curse
each other's fathers,
mothers, beards, etc.; and lavish upon each
other a variety of opprobrious
epithets; such as “son of the dog,
pimp, pig,” and an
appellation which they think still worse than
any of these, namely,
“Jew.” When one curses the father of the
other, the
latter generally retorts by cursing the father and mother,
and sometimes
the whole household, of his adversary. They
menace each other; but seldom
proceed to blows. In a few
instances, however, I have seen low persons in
this country so
enraged as to bite, and grasp each other by the throat. I
have
also witnessed many instances of forbearance on the part of
individuals of the middle and lower classes, when grossly insulted:
I have
often heard an Egyptian say, on receiving a blow
from an equal,
“God bless thee!” “God requite thee
good!”
“Beat me again.” In general, a
quarrel terminates by one or

both parties saying,
“Justice is against me:” often, after this,
they
recite the Fát'hah together; and then, sometimes, embrace
and
kiss one another.
The Egyptians are particularly prone to satire; and often
display
considerable wit in their jeers and jests. Their language
affords them
great facilities for punning, and for ambiguous conversation,
in which they
very frequently indulge. The lower
order sometimes lampoon their rulers in
songs, and ridicule those
enactments of the government by which they
themselves most
suffer. I was once much amused with a song which I found
to
be very popular in the town and district of Aswán, on the
southern
frontier of Egypt: its burden was a plain invocation to the
plague to take their tyrannical governor and his Copt clerk.
Another song,
which was popular throughout Egypt during my
first visit to this country,
and which was composed on the occasion
of an increase of the income-tax
called “firdeh,” began
thus: “You who have
[nothing on your head but] a libdeh! sell
it, and pay the
firdeh.” The libdeh, I have before mentioned, is
a felt cap,
which is worn under, or instead of, the turban; and
the man must be very
poor who has no other covering than this
for his head.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XIV.
INDUSTRY.
IT is melancholy to contrast the present poverty of Egypt with its
prosperity in ancient times, when the variety, elegance, and exquisite
finish displayed in its manufactures attracted the admiration
of
surrounding nations, and its inhabitants were in no need of
foreign
commerce to increase their wealth, or to add to their comforts.
Antiquarian
researches show us that a high degree of
excellence in the arts of
civilized life distinguished the Egyptians
in the age of Moses, and at a
yet earlier period. Not only the
Pharaohs and the priests and military
chiefs, but also a great proportion
of the wealthy agriculturists, and
other private individuals,
in those remote times, passed a life of the most
refined luxury,
were clad in linen of the most delicate fabric, and
reclined on
couches and chairs which have served as models for the
furniture
of our modern saloons. Nature is as lavish of her favours as
the

was of old to the inhabitants of
the valley of the Nile; but, for
many centuries, they have ceased to enjoy
the benefit of a steady
government: each of their successive rulers, during
this long lapse
of time, considering the uncertain tenure of his power, has
been
almost wholly intent upon increasing his own wealth; and thus,
a
large portion of the nation has gradually perished, and the remnant,
in
general, been reduced to a state of the most afflicting
poverty. The male
portion of the population of Egypt being
scarcely greater than is
sufficient for the cultivation of as much of
the soil as is subject to the
natural inundation, or easily irrigated
by artificial means, the number of
persons who devote themselves
to manufactures in this country is
comparatively very small; and
as there are so few competitors, and, at
present, few persons of
wealth to encourage them, their works in general
display but little
skill. But the low state of the manual arts has, in a
great degree,
been occasioned by another cause: the Turkish
Sultán Seleem,
after his conquest of Egypt, took with him thence
to his own
country, as related by El-Gabartee, so many masters of
crafts
which were not practised in Turkey, that more than fifty manual
arts ceased to be pursued in Egypt.
Painting and sculpture, as applied to the representation of
living objects,
are, I have already stated, absolutely prohibited
by the religion of
El-Islám: there are, however, some Muslims in
Egypt who attempt
the delineation of men, lions, camels, and other
animals, flowers, boats,
etc., particularly in (what they call) the
decoration of a few shop-fronts,
the doors of pilgrims' houses, etc.;
though their performances would be
surpassed by children of five
or six years of age in our own country. But
the Muslim religion
especially promotes industry, by requiring that every
man be acquainted
with some art or occupation by which he may, in case
of necessity, be able to support himself and those dependent upon
him, and
to fulfil all his religious and moral duties. The art in
which the
Egyptians most excel is architecture. The finest specimens
of Arabian
architecture are found in the Egyptian metropolis
and its environs; and not
only the mosques and other public
buildings are remarkable for their
grandeur and beauty, but many
of the private dwellings, also, attract our
admiration, especially by
their interior structure and decorations. Yet
this art has, of late
years, much declined, like most others in this
country: a new
style of architecture, partly Oriental and partly European,
and of
a very plain description, being generally preferred. The doors,
ceilings, windows, and pavements of the buildings in the older

style, which have already been
described, display considerable
taste, of a peculiar kind; and so, also, do
most of the Egyptian
manufactures; though many of them are rather clumsy,
or ill
finished. The turners of wood, whose chief occupation was that
of making the lattice-work of windows, were very numerous, and
their work
was generally neater than it is at present: they have
less employment now,
as windows of modern houses are often
made of glass. The turner, like most
other artisans in Egypt, sits
to his work. In the art of glass-making, for
which Egypt was so
much celebrated in ancient times, the modern inhabitants
of this
country possess but little skill: they have lost the art of
manufacturing
coloured glass for windows; but, for the construction of
windows of this material, they are still admired, though not so
much as
they were a few years ago, before the adoption of a new
style of
architecture diminished the demand for their work. Their
pottery is
generally of a rude kind: it mostly consists of porous
bottles and jars,
for cooling, as well as keeping, water. For their
skill in the preparation
of morocco leather, they are justly celebrated.
The branches and leaves of
the palm-tree they employ
in a great variety of manufactures: of the
former, they make seats,
coops, chests, frames for beds, etc.: of the
latter, baskets, panniers,
mats, brooms, fly-whisks, and many other
utensils. Of the
fibres, also, that grow at the foot of the branches of the
palm-tree
are made most of the ropes used in Egypt. The best mats
(which
are much used instead of carpets, particularly in summer) are
made
of rushes. Egypt has lost the celebrity which it enjoyed in
ancient
times for its fine linen: the linen, cotton, and woollen cloths,
and
the silks now woven in this country, are generally of coarse or
poor qualities.
The Egyptians have long been famous for the art of hatching
fowls' eggs by
artificial heat. This practice, though obscurely described
by ancient
authors, appears to have been common in Egypt
in very remote times. The
building in which the process is
performed is called, in
Lower Egypt,
“maamal el-firákh,” and,
in
Upper Egypt,
“maamal el-farroog:” in the former division
of the
country, there are more than a hundred such establishments;
and in the
latter, more than a half that number. Most of
the superintendents, if not
all, are Copts. The proprietors pay
a tax to the government. The maamal is
constructed of burnt or
sun-dried bricks; and consists of two parallel rows
of small ovens
and cells for fire, divided by a narrow, vaulted passage;
each oven
being about nine or ten feet long, eight feet wide, and five or
six

feet high, and having above it a
vaulted fire-cell, of the same size,
or rather less in height. Each oven
communicates with the passage
by an aperture large enough for a man to
enter; and with its
fire-cell by a similar aperture: the fire-cells, also,
of the same row,
communicate with each other; and each has an aperture in
its
vault (for the escape of the smoke), which is opened only
occasionally:
the passage, too, has several such apertures in its
vaulted
roof. The eggs are placed upon mats or straw, and one tier
above
another, usually to the number of three tiers, in the ovens; and
burning “gelleh” (a fuel before mentioned, composed of the
dung
of animals, mixed with chopped straw, and made into the form of
round, flat cakes) is placed upon the floors of the fire-cells above.
The
entrance of the maamal is well closed. Before it are two or
three small
chambers, for the attendant, and the fuel, and the
chickens when newly
hatched. The operation is performed only
during two or three months in the
year—in the spring—earliest
in the most southern
parts of the country. Each maamal in
general contains from twelve to
twenty-four ovens; and receives
about a hundred and fifty thousand eggs,
during the annual period
of its continuing open; one quarter or a third of
which number
generally fail. The peasants of the neighbourhood supply
the
eggs: the attendant of the maamal examines them; and afterwards
usually gives one chicken for every two eggs that he has received.
In
general, only half the number of ovens are used for the first
ten days; and
fires are lighted only in the fire-cells above these.
On the eleventh day,
these fires are put out, and others are lighted
in the other fire-cells,
and fresh eggs placed in the ovens below
these last. On the following day,
some of the eggs in the former
ovens are removed, and placed on the floor
of the fire-cells above,
where the fires have been extinguished. The
general heat maintained
during the process is from 100° to
103° of Fahrenheit's
thermometer. The manager, having been
accustomed to this art
from his youth, knows, from his long experience, the
exact temperature
that is required for the success of the operation,
without
having any instrument, like our thermometer, to guide him. On
the twentieth day, some of the eggs first put in are hatched; but
most, on
the twenty-first day; that is, after the same period as is
required in the
case of natural incubation. The weaker of the
chickens are placed in the
passage: the rest, in the innermost of
the anterior apartments, where they
remain a day or two before
they are given to the persons to whom they are
due. When the
eggs first placed have been hatched, and the second supply
half
figure id="ill288a" entity="LanMa1890_288a"/> f

SHOPS IN A STREET IN CAIRO. The principal object in this view is
the shop of an “Attar,” who sells drugs,
perfumes, wax candles, etc. The inscription on the shutter is
“Yá fettáh.” (See chap.
xi.)

hatched, the ovens in which the
former were placed, and which
are now vacant, receive the third supply;
and, in like manner,
when the second supply is hatched, a fourth is
introduced in
their place. I have not found that the fowls produced in
this
manner are inferior in point of flavour, or in other respects, to
those produced from the egg by incubation. The fowls and
their eggs in
Egypt are, in both cases, and with respect to size
and flavour, very
inferior to those in our country.—In one of the
Egyptian
newspapers published by order of the government (No.
248, for the 18th of
Ramadán, 1246, or the 3d of March, 1831,
of our era) I find the
following statement:—
|
Lower Egypt. |
Upper Egypt. |
| Number of establishments for the hatching of fowls'
eggs in the present year |
105 |
59 |
| Number of eggs used |
19,325,600 |
6,878,900 |
| Number spoiled |
6,255,867 |
2,529,660 |
| Number hatched |
13,069,733 |
4,349,240 |
Though the commerce of Egypt has much declined since the
discovery of the
passage from Europe to India by the Cape of
Good Hope, and in consequence
of the monopolies and exactions
of its present ruler, it is still
considerable.
The principal
imports from Europe are woolen cloths
(chiefly
from France), calico, plain muslin, figured muslin (of Scotch
manufacture, for turbans), silks, velvet, crape, shawls (Scotch,
English,
and French) in imitation of those of Kashmeer, writing-paper
(chiefly from
Venice), fire-arms, straight sword-blades (from
Germany) for the Nubians,
etc., watches and clocks, coffee-cups
and various articles of earthenware
and glass (mostly from Germany),
many kinds of hardwares, planks, metal,
beads, wine and
liqueurs; and white slaves, silks, embroidered
handkerchiefs and
napkins, mouth-pieces of pipes, slippers, and a variety
of made
goods, copper and brass wares, etc., from
Constantinople:—from
Asia Minor, carpets (among which, the
seggádehs, or small prayer-carpets),
figs, etc.:—from
Syria, tobacco, striped silks, 'abáyehs
(or woollen cloaks),
soap:—from Arabia, coffee, spices, several
drugs, Indian goods
(as shawls, silks, muslins, etc.):—from Abyssinia
and
Sennár and the neighbouring countries, slaves, gold,
ivory,
ostrich-feathers, kurbágs (or whips of hippopotamus' hide),
tamarind in cakes, gums, senna:—from El-Gharb, or the West
(that
is, northern Africa, from Egypt westwards), tarbooshes (or
red cloth
scull-caps), burnooses (or white woolen hooded cloaks),
heráms
(or white woollen sheets, used for night-coverings and for
dress), yellow
morocco shoes.
The principal
exports to Europe are what, maize, rice,
beans,
cotton, flax, indigo, coffee, various spices, gums, senna,
ivory,
ostrich-feathers:—to Turkey, male and female Abyssinian
and
black slaves (including a few ennuchs), rice, coffee, spices,
henna,
etc.:—to
Syria, slaves, rice, etc.:—to Arabia,
chiefly corn:—to
Sennár and the neighbouring
countries, cotton and linen and
woollen goods, a few Syrian and Egyptian
striped silks, small
carpets, beads and other ornaments, soap, the straight
sword-blades
mentioned before, fire-arms, copper wares, writing-paper.
To convey some notion of the value of money in
Cairo, I insert
the following
list of the present prices of certain common
articles of food, etc. In the
country towns and villages, most
kinds of provisions are cheaper than in
the metropolis: meat,
fowls, and pigeons, about half the prices here
mentioned: wheat
and bread, from about one third to half.
| P. |
F. |
(£ |
s.
|
d.) |
| Wheat, the ardebb (or about five bushels), from 50 P.
to |
63 |
0 |
(0 13 2 1/5) |
| Rice, the ardebb, about |
240 |
0 |
(2 8 0) |
| Mutton or lamb, the ratl |
1 |
0 |
(0 0 2 2/5) |
| Beef, do. |
0 |
35 |
(0 0 2 1/10) |
| Fowls, each, 1 P. 10 F. to |
1 |
20 |
(0 0 3 3/5) |
| Pigeons, the pair, 1 P. 10 F. to |
1 |
20 |
(0 0 3 3/5) |
| Eggs, three for |
0 |
5 |
(0 |
0 |
0 3/10) |
| Fresh butter, the ratl |
2 |
0 |
(0 0 4 4/5) |
| Clarified butter, do. 2 P. to |
2 |
10 |
(0 0 5 2/5) |
| Coffee do. 6 P. to |
7 |
0 |
(0 |
1 |
4 4/5) |
| Gebelee tobacco, the ukkah, 15 P. to |
18 |
0 |
(0 3 7 1/5) |
| Sooree do. do. 5 P. to |
10 |
0 |
(0 2 0) |
| Egyptian loaf-sugar, the ratl |
2 |
0 |
(0 0 4 4/5) |
| European do do. |
2 |
10 |
(0 0 5 2/5) |
| Summer grapes do. |
0 |
10 |
(0 0 0 3/5) |
| Later do do. 20 F. to |
0 |
30 |
(0 0 1 4/5) |
| Fine biscuit, the kantár |
160 |
0 |
(1 12 0) |
| Water, the kirbeh (or goat's skin), 10 F. to |
0 |
20 |
(0 0 1 1/5) |
| Fire-wood, the donkey-load |
11 |
0 |
(0 2 2 2/5) |
| Charcoal, the ukkah, 20 F. to |
0 |
30 |
(0 0 1 4/5) |
| Soap, the ratl |
1 |
30 |
(0 0 4 1/5) |
| Tallow candles, the ukkah |
8 |
20 |
(0 1 8 2/5) |
| Best wax do do. |
25 |
0 |
(0 5 0) |
Note.—The
“ratl” is about 15 3/4 oz., and the
“ukkah” nearly 2 3/4 lbs., avoirdupois.
The “kantár” is 100 ratls. P.
denotes Piasters: F., Faddahs. For a full account of Egyptian
measures, weights, and moneys, see the Appendix. |
There are in
Cairo numerous buildings called
“wekálehs,”
1

chiefly designed for the
accommodation of merchants, and for the
reception of their goods. The
wekáleh is a building surrounding
a square or oblong court. Its
ground-floor consists of vaulted
magazines for merchandise, which face the
court; and these
magazines are sometimes used as shops. Above them are
generally
lodgings, which are entered from a gallery extending along
each of the four sides of the court; or, in the place of these
lodgings,
there are other magazines; and in many wekálehs, which
have
apartments intended as lodgings, these apartments are used
as magazines. In
general, a wekáleh has only one common
entrance; the door of
which is closed at night, and kept by a
porter. There are about two hundred
of these buildings in
Cairo;
and three-fourths of that number are within
that part which constituted
the original city.
1 “Wekáleh”
(generally pronounced by the Franks occaleh, occal,
etc.) is
for “Dár
el-Wekáleh,” signifying a factory.
It has already been mentioned, in the Introduction to this work,
that the
great thoroughfare-streets of
Cairo generally have a row
of shops along
each side, not communicating with the superstructures.
So, also, have many
of the bye-streets. Commonly, a
portion of a street, or a whole street,
contains chiefly, or solely,
shops appropriated to one particular trade
1; and is called
the
Sook (or Market) of that trade; or is named after a mosque
there
situated. Thus, a part of the main street of the city is
called
“Sook en-Nahháseen,” or the market of the
sellers of
copper wares (or simply “the
Nahháseen”—the word
“Sook”
being usually dropped); another part is called
“the Góhargeeyeh,”
or [market of] the
jewellers; another, “the Khurdageeyeh,”
or [market
of] the sellers of hardwares; another, “the
Ghóreeyeh,” or [market of] the Ghóreeyeh, which
is the name of
a mosque situated there. These are some of the chief sooks
of
the city. The principal Turkish sook is called
“Khán El-Khaleelee.”
Some of the sooks are
covered over with matting, or
with planks, supported by beams extending
across the street, a
little above the shops, or above the houses.
1 This has long been the case in other Eastern
countries. See Jeremiah
xxxvii. 21.
The shop (“dukkán”) is a square recess, or cell,
generally
about six or seven feet high, and between three and four feet
in
width; or it consists of two cells, one behind the other, the inner
one serving as a magazine.
2 The floor of the shop is even with
the top of a
“mastab'ah,” or raised seat of stone or brick, built
2 The tradesman keeps his main stock of goods
(if more than his shop will
contain) in this magazine, or in his
private dwelling, or in a wekáleh.

against the front. This is usually
about two feet and a half, or
three feet, in height; and about the same in
breadth. The front
of the shop is furnished with folding shutters, commonly
consisting
of three leaves, one above another: the uppermost of these
is
turned up in front; the two other leaves, sometimes folded
together,
are turned down upon the mastab'ah, and form an even
seat,
upon which is spread a mat or carpet, with, perhaps, a cushion
or two. Some
shops have folding doors instead of the shutters
above described. The
shopkeeper generally sits upon the mastab'ah,
unless he be obliged to
retire a little way within his shop
to make room for two or more customers,
who mount up on the
seat, taking off their shoes before they draw up their
feet upon
the mat or carpet. To a regular customer, or one who makes
any considerable purchase, the shopkeeper generally presents a
pipe (unless
the former have his own with him, and it be filled
and lighted), and he
calls or sends to the boy of the nearest coffee-shop,
and desire him to
bring some coffee, which is served in
the same manner as in the house, in
small china cups placed
within cups of brass. Not more than two persons can
sit conveniently
upon the mastab'ah of a shop, unless it be more
spacious
than is commonly the case; but some are three or four feet
broad,
and the shops to which they belong five or six feet in width;
and
consequently these afford room enough for four persons, or more,
sitting in the Eastern fashion. The shopman generally says his
prayers upon
the mastab'ah in the sight of the passengers in the
street. When he leaves
his shop for a few minutes, or for about
half an hour, he either relies for
the protection of his property
upon the next shopkeepers, or those
opposite, or hangs a net
before his shop. He seldom thinks it necessary to
close and lock
the shutters, excepting at night, when he returns to his
house; or
when he goes to the mosque, on the Friday, to join in the
noon-prayers
of that day.—The apartments above the shops have
been
described in the Introduction.
Buying and selling are here very tiresome processes to persons
unaccustomed
to such modes of bargaining. When a shopkeeper
is asked the price of any of
his goods, he generally demands more
than he expects to receive; the
customer declares the price exorbitant,
and offers about half or two-thirds
of the sum first-named;
the price thus bidden is, of course, rejected: but
the shopkeeper
lowers his demand; and then the customer, in his turn, bids
somewhat
higher than before: thus they usually go on until they meet
about half-way between the sum first demanded and that first


THE SHOP OF A TURKISH MERCHANT IN THE SOOK CALLED KHÁN
EL-KHALEELEE.

offered, and so the bargain is
concluded. But I believe that most
of the tradesmen are, by European
travellers, unjustly blamed for
thus acting; since I have ascertained that
many an Egyptian shopkeeper
will sell an article for a profit of one
per cent., and even
less. When a person would make
any but a trifling purchase,
having found the article that exactly suits
him, he generally makes
up his mind for a long altercation: he mounts upon
the mastab'ah
of the shop, seats himself at his ease, fills and lights his
pipe, and
then the contest of words commences, and lasts often half an
hour,
or even more. Sometimes the shopkeeper, or the customer,
interrupts
the bargaining by introducing some irrelevant topic of
conversation, as if the one had determined to abate his demand
no further,
or the other to bid no higher: then again the haggling
is continued. The
bargain being concluded, and the purchaser
having taken his leave, his
servant generally receives, from the
tradesman, a small present of money,
which, if not given spontaneously,
he scruples not to demand. In many of
the sooks in
Cairo auctions are held on stated days, once or twice a
week.
They are conducted by “delláls” (or
brokers), hired either by
private persons who have anything that they wish
to sell in this
manner, or by shopkeepers; and the purchasers are of both
these
classes. The “delláls” carry the
goods up and down, announcing
the sums bidden with cries of
“harág” or
“haráj,” etc.—Among
the lower
orders, a bargain of the most trifling nature is
often made with a great
deal of vehemence of voice and gesture:
a person ignorant of their language
would imagine that the parties
engaged in it were quarrelling, and highly
enraged. The peasants
will often say, when a person asks the price of
anything which
they have for sale, “Receive it as a
present:”
1 this answer having
become a common form of speech, they know that
advantage will
not be taken of it; and when desired again to name the
price,
they will do so, but generally name a sum that is exorbitant.
1 As Ephron did to Abraham, when the latter
expressed his wish to purchase
the cave and field of Machpelah. See
Genesis xxiii. 11.
It would be tedious and uninteresting to enumerate all the
trades pursued in
Cairo. The principal of them are those of the
draper, or seller of
materials for dress (who is simply called
“tágir,” or merchant), and of the seller of
ready-made dresses,
arms, etc. (who has the same appellation); the jeweller
(“góhargee”);
the goldsmith and
silversmith (“sáïgh”), who only
works
by order; the seller of hardwares
(“khurdagee”); the seller of
copper wares
(“nahhás”); the tailor
(“kheiyát”); the dyer

(“sabbágh”); the darner
(“reffa”); the ornamental sewer and
maker of shereet,
or silk lace, etc. (“habbák”); the maker of
silk
cords, etc. (“'akkád”); the maker of
pipes (“shibukshee”); the
druggist and perfumer
(“'attár”), who also sells wax candles,
etc.;
the tobacconist (“dakhákhinee”); the
fruiterer (“fákihánee”);
the
seller of dried fruits (“nukalee”); the seller of
sherbet
(“sharbetlee”); the oilman
(“zeiyát”), who sells butter, cheese,
honey, etc., as well as oil; the greengrocer (“khudaree”);
the
butcher (“gezzár”); and the baker
(“farrán”), to whom bread,
meat, etc., are
sent to be baked. There are many cooks' shops,
where kebáb and
various other dishes are cooked and sold; but
it is seldom that persons eat
at these shops, generally sending to
them for provisions when they cannot
conveniently prepare food
in their own houses. Shopkeepers often procure
their breakfast
or dinner from one of these cooks, who are called,
“tabbákhs.”
There are also many shops in
which fateerehs, and others in
which boiled beans (fool mudemmes) are sold.
Both these articles
of food have been described in a former chapter. Many
persons
of the lower orders eat at the shop of the
“fatátiree” (or seller of
fateerehs), or
at that of the “fowwál” (or bean-seller).
Bread, vegetables, and a variety of eatables, are carried about
for sale.
The cries of some of the hawkers are curious, and
deserve to be mentioned.
The seller of “tirmis” (or lupins)
often cries,
“Aid! O Imbábee! Aid!” This is understood
in two senses; as an invocation for aid to the sheykh
El-Imbábee,
a celebrated Muslim saint, buried at the village of
Imbábeh, on the
west bank of the Nile, opposite
Cairo, in the
neighbourhood of
which village the best tirmis is grown; and also as
implying that
it is through the aid of the saint above mentioned that the
tirmis
of Imbábeh is so excellent. The seller of this vegetable
also cries,
“The tirmis of Imbábeh surpasses the
almond!” Another cry
of the seller of tirmis is, “O
how sweet the little offspring of the
river!” This last cry,
which is seldom heard but in the country
towns and villages of Egypt,
alludes to the manner in which the
tirmis is prepared for food. To deprive
it of its natural bitterness,
it is soaked, for two or three days, in a
vessel full of water, then
boiled; and, after this, sewed up in a basket of
palm-leaves
(called “fard”), and thrown into the
Nile, where it is left to soak
again, two or three days, after which it is
dried, and eaten cold,
with a little salt.—The seller of sour
limes cries, “God make them
light [or easy of sale]! O
limes!”—The toasted pips of a kind
of melon called
“'abdalláwee,” and of the water-melon, are
often

announced by the cry of
“O consoler of the embarrassed! O
pips!” though more
commonly by the simple cry of “Roasted
pips!”—A curious cry of the seller of a kind of sweetmeat
(“haláweh”)
composed of treacle fried with
some other ingredients, is,
“For a nail! O
sweetmeat!” He is said to be half a thief:
children and servants
often steal implements of iron, etc., from
the house in which they live,
and to give them in exchange
for his sweetmeat.—The hawker of
oranges cries, “Honey! O
oranges! Honey!” and similar
cries are used by the sellers of
other fruits and vegetables, so that it is
sometimes impossible to
guess what the person announces for sale, as when
we hear the
cry of “Sycamore-figs! O grapes!”
excepting by the rule that
what is for sale is the least excellent of the
fruits, etc., mentioned;
as sycamore-figs are not so good as
grapes.—A very singular cry
is used by the seller of roses:
“The rose was a thorn; from the
sweat of the Prophet it
blossomed.” This alludes to a miracle
related to the
Prophet.—The fragrant flowers of the henna-tree (or
Egyptian
privet) are carried about for sale, and the seller cries,
“Odours of paradise! O flowers of the henna!”—A
kind of
cotton-cloth, made by machinery which is put in motion by a
bull, is announced by the cry of “The work of the bull! O
maidens!”
As the water of the wells in
Cairo is slightly brackish, numerous
“sakkas” (carriers or sellers of water) obtain their
livelihood by
supplying its inhabitants with water from the Nile. During
the
season of the inundation, or rather during the period of about
four months after the opening of the canal which runs through the
metropolis, the sakkas draw their water from this canal: at other
times
they bring it from the river. It is conveyed in skins by
camels and asses,
and sometimes, when the distance is short, and
the skin small, by the sakka
himself. The water-skins of the
camel (which are called
“rei”) are a pair of wide bags of ox-hide.
The ass
bears a goat's skin (called “kirbeh”); so also does
the
sakka, if he have no ass. The rei contain three or four kirbehs.
The general cry of the sakka is, “O! may God compensate
[me]!” Whenever this cry is heard, it is known that a sakka is
passing. For a goat's skin of water, brought from a distance of
a mile and
a half, or two miles, he obtains scarcely more than a
penny.
There are also many sakkas who supply passengers in the
streets of the
metropolis with water. One of this occupation is
called “sakka
sharbeh:” his kirbeh has a long brass spout, and

he pours the water into a brass
cup, or an earthen kulleh, for any
one who would drink.—There is
a more numerous class who
follow the same occupation, called
“hemalees.” These are
mostly darweeshes, of the order
of the Rifá'ees, or that of the
Beiyoomees, and are exempt from
the income-tax called firdeh.
The hemalee carries, upon his back, a vessel
(called “ibreek”)
of porous grey earth. This vessel
cools the water. Sometimes
the hemalee has an earthen kulleh of water
scented with “móyet
zahr” (or
orange-flower-water), prepared from the flowers of the
“náring” (a bitter orange), for his best
customers; and often a

WATER-CARRIERS.
sprig of náring is stuck in the mouth of his ibreek. He
also,
generally, has a wallet hung by his side. From persons of the
higher and middle orders he receives from one to five faddahs
for a draught
of water; from the poor, either nothing, or a piece
of bread or some other
article of food, which he puts in his
wallet. Many hemalees, and some
sakkas who carry the goat's
skin, are found at the scenes of religious
festivals, such as the
moolids of saints, etc., in
Cairo and its
neighbourhood. They are
often paid, by visitors to the tomb of a saint on
such occasions, to
distribute the water which they carry to passengers; a
cupful to

whoever desires. This work of
charity is called “tesbeel;” and
is performed for the
sake of the saint, and on other occasions than
moolids. The water-carriers
who are thus employed are generally
allowed to fill their ibreeks or
kirbehs at a public fountain, as they
demand nothing from the passengers
whom they supply. When
employed to distribute water to passengers in the
street, etc., they
generally chant a short cry, inviting the thirsty to
partake of the
charity offered them in the name of God, most commonly in
the
words, and to the air, here following:—

and praying that paradise and
pardon may be the lot of him who
affords the charitable gift; thus—

There are numerous other persons who follow occupations
similar to that of
the hemalee. Among these are sellers of “'erksoos,”
or infusion of liquorice, mentioned in a former chapter. The
“'erk-soosee” (or seller of this beverage) generally
carries a red
earthen jar of the liquid on his left side, partly supported
by a
strap and chain, and partly by his left arm: the mouth having
some
leaf (or fibres of the palm-tree) stuffed into it. He also carries
two
or more brass or china cups, which he knocks together.—In
the
same manner, many “sharbetlees” (or sellers of
sherbet) carry
about for sale “zebeeb” (or infusion
of raisins). The sharbetlee
commonly bears, in his left hand, the glass
vessel of a “sheesheh,”
filled with zebeeb; and a
large tin or copper jug full of the same,
and several glass cups, in his
right hand. Some sharbetlees
carry, on the head, a round tinned copper
tray, with a number
of glass cups of “teen meblool,”
or “belah meblool,” which are
figs and dates steeped
in water; and a copper vessel, or a china

bowl, of the same. Sahlab (a thin
jelly, made of water, wheat-starch,
and sugar, boiled, with a little
cinnamon or ginger sprinkled
upon it; or made as a drink without starch) is
likewise carried
about in the same manner; and
“soobiya” (which is a drink
made of the pips of the
'abdalláwee melon, moistened and
pounded, and steeped in water,
which is then strained, and
sweetened with sugar; or made with rice instead
of the pips) is
also vended in a similar way, and carried in vessels like those

HEMALEES.
used for zebeeb; but the glass cups are generally placed in a
kind
of trough of tin, attached, by a belt, to the waist of the seller.
It has been mentioned before that many poor persons in
Cairo gain their
livelihood by going about to clean pipes. The pipe-cleaner
(“musellikátee”) carries a number of long wires
for this
purpose in three or four hollow canes, or tubes of tin, which
are
bound together and slung to his shoulder. A small leather bag,
full of tow, to wind round the top of the wire with which the pipe
is
cleaned, is attached to the canes or tin tubes. The musellikátee
generally obtains no more than a “nuss faddah” (or about
a
quarter of a farthing) for each pipe that he cleans.

A very great number of persons of both sexes among the lower
orders in
Cairo, and many in other towns of Egypt, obtain their
subsistence by
begging. As might be expected, not a few of
these are abominable impostors.
There are some whose appearance
is most distressing to every humane person
who sees them,
but who accumulate considerable property. A case of this
kind
was made public here a few months ago. A blind felláh,
who
was led through the streets of the metropolis by a young girl, his
daughter, both of whom were always nearly naked, was in the
daily habit of
bringing to his house a blind Turkish beggar to
sup with him. One evening
he was not at home; but his daughter
was there, and had prepared the supper
for his Turkish friend,
who sat and ate alone; and, in doing this, happened
to put his hand
on one side and felt a jar full of money, which, without
scruple, he
carried away with him. It contained the sum of a hundred
and
ten purses (then equivalent to rather more than five hundred and
fifty guineas), in kheyreeyehs, or small coins of nine piasters each.
The
plundered beggar sought redress at the Citadel, and recovered
his property,
with the exception of forty kheyreeyehs, which the
thief had spent, but was
interdicted from begging in future. Children
are often seen in
Cairo
perfectly naked; and I have several
times seen females from twelve to
twenty years of age, and upwards,
with only a narrow strip of rag round the
loins, begging in
the streets of this city. They suffer little from
exposure of the bare
person to the cold of winter or the scorching sun of
summer,
being accustomed to it from infancy; and the men may, if they
choose, sleep in some of the mosques. In other respects, also,
their
condition is not quite so bad as their appearance might lead
a stranger to
suppose. They are almost sure of obtaining either
food or money sufficient
for supplying the absolute wants of
nature in consequence of the charitable
disposition of their
countrymen and the common habit which the tradespeople
have
of eating in their shops, and generally giving a morsel of their
food to those who ask for it. There are many beggars who spend
the greater
part of the day's gains to indulge themselves at night
with the
intoxicating hasheesh, which, for a few hours, renders
them, in
imagination, the happiest of mankind.
The cries of the beggars of
Cairo are generally appeals to God.
Among the
most common are—“ O Exciter of compassion! O
Lord!”—“For the sake of God! O ye
charitable!”—“I am
seeking from my Lord a
cake of bread!”—“O how bountiful
Thou art!
O Lord!”—“I am the guest of God and the
Prophet!”

—in the evening,
“My supper must be Thy gift! O Lord!”
—on
the eve of Friday, “The night of the excellent
Friday!”—and
on Friday, “The excellent day
of Friday!”—
One who daily passed my door used to
exclaim, “Place thy reliance upon God!
There is none but
God!” and another, a woman, I now hear
crying, “My
supper must be Thy gift! O Lord! from the hand
of a bountiful believer, a
testifier of the unity of God! O masters!”
—The
answers which beggars generally receive (for they are so
numerous that a
person cannot give to all who ask of him) are,
“God help
thee!”—“God will
sustain!”—“God give
thee!”—
“God content, or enrich,
thee!”—They are not satisfied by any
denial but one
implied by these or similar answers. In the more
frequented streets of
Cairo, it is common to see a beggar asking
for the price of a cake of
bread, which he or she holds in the
hand, followed by the seller of the
bread. Some beggars, particularly
darweeshes, go about chanting verses in
praise of the Prophet,
or beating cymbals, or a little kettle-drum. In the
country,
many darweeshes go from village to village begging alms. I
have
seen them on horseback; and one I lately saw thus mounted,
and
accompanied by two men bearing each a flag, and by a third
beating a drum:
this beggar on horseback was going from hut to
hut asking for bread.
The most important of the occupations which employ the
modern Egyptians, and
that which (as before mentioned) engages
all but a very small proportion of
them, is agriculture.
The greater portion of the cultivable soil is fertilized by the
natural
annual inundation; but the fields in the vicinity of the
river and of the
large canals, and some other lands, in which pits
are dug for water, are
irrigated by means of machines of different
kinds. The most common of these
machines is the “shádoof,”
which consists
of two posts or pillars of wood, or of mud and
canes or rushes, about five
feet in height, and less than three feet
apart, with a horizontal piece of
wood extending from top to top,
to which is suspended a slender lever,
formed of a branch of a
tree, having at one end a weight chiefly composed
of mud, and
at the other, suspended to two long palm-sticks, a vessel in
the
form of a bowl, made of basket-work, or of a hoop and a piece of
woollen stuff or leather: with this vessel the water is thrown up
to the
height of about eight feet into a trough hollowed out for
its reception. In
the southern parts of
Upper Egypt, four or five
shádoofs are
required, when the river is at the lowest, to raise the
water to the level
of the fields. There are many shádoofs with

THE SHÁDOOF.


two levers, etc., which are worked
by two men. The operation
is extremely laborious.—Another
machine much used for the
same purpose, and almost the only one employed
for the irrigation
of gardens in Egypt, is the
“sákiyeh.” This mainly consists
of a
vertical wheel, which raises the water in earthen pots attached
to cords,
and forming a continuous series; a second vertical
wheel fixed to the same
axis, with cogs; and a large, horizontal,
cogged wheel, which, being turned
by a pair of cows or bulls, or
by a single beast, puts in motion the two
former wheels and the
pots. The construction of this machine is of a very
rude kind,
and its motion produces a disagreeable creaking
noise.—There is
a third machine, called
“táboot,” used for the irrigation of lands
in the northern parts of Egypt, where it is only requisite to raise
the
water a few feet. It somewhat resembles the
“sákiyeh:” the
chief difference is, that,
instead of the wheel with pots, it has a
large wheel with hollow jaunts, or
fellies, in which the water is
raised. In the same parts of Egypt, and
often to raise the water
to the channel of the
“táboot,” a vessel like that of the
“shádoof,”
with four cords attached to it,
is also used. Two men,
each holding two of the cords, throw up the water by
means of
this vessel, which is called
“katweh.”—In the process of artificial
irrigation, the land is divided into small squares, by ridges of
earth, or
into furrows; and the water, flowing from the machine
along a narrow
gutter, is admitted into one square or furrow after
another.
The “rei” lands (or those which are naturally inundated)
are,
with some exceptions, cultivated but once during the year. After
the waters have retired, about the end of October or beginning of
November,
they are sown with wheat, barley, lentils, beans, lupins,
chick-peas, etc.
This is called the “shitawee” (or winter) season.
But
the “sharákee” lands (or those which are too
high to be
subject to the natural inundation), and some parts of the rei,
by
artificial irrigation are made to produce three crops every year;
though not
all the sharákee lands are thus
cultivated. The lands
artificially irrigated produce, first, their shitawee
crops, being
sown at the same period as the rei lands, generally with
wheat
or barley. Secondly, in what is called the
“seyfee,” or, in the
southern parts of Egypt, the
“keydee,” or “geydee” (that is,
the summer) season, commencing about the vernal equinox, or a
little later,
they are sown with millet (“durah seyfee”), or with
indigo, or cotton, etc. Thirdly, in the “demeereh” season,
or
period of the rise of the Nile, commencing about, or soon after,

the summer solstice, they are sown
with millet again, or with
maize (“dura
shámee”), etc., and thus crowned with a third
harvest.—Sugar is cultivated throughout a large portion of Upper
Egypt, and rice in the low lands near the Mediterranean.
For the purpose of separating the grain of wheat, barley, etc.,
and cutting
the straw, which serves as fodder, the Egyptians use
a machine called
“nórag,” in the form of a chair, which
moves
upon small iron wheels, or thin circular plates, generally
eleven,
fixed to three thick axle-trees, four to the foremost, the
same
number to the hindmost, and three to the intermediate axle-tree.
This machine is drawn, in a circle, by a pair of cows or bulls,
over the
corn. The plough, and the other implements which they
use in husbandry, are
of rude and simple kinds.
The navigation of the Nile employs a great number of the
natives of Egypt.
The boatmen of the Nile are mostly strong,
muscular men. They undergo
severe labour in rowing, poling,
and towing; but are very cheerful; and
often the most so when
they are most occupied, for then they frequently
amuse themselves
by singing. In consequence of the continual changes which
take
place in the bed of the Nile, the most experienced pilot is
liable
frequently to run his vessel aground; on such an occurrence, it
is
often necessary for the crew to descend into the water, to shove
off the boat with their backs and shoulders. On account of their
being so
liable to run aground, the boats of the Nile are generally
made to draw
rather more water at the head than at the stern,
and hence the rudder is
necessarily very wide. The better kind
of boats used on the Nile, which are
very numerous, are of a
simple but elegant form, mostly between thirty and
forty feet in
length, with two masts, two large triangular sails, and a
cabin,
next the stern, generally about feet high, and occupying about
a fourth, or a third, of the length of the boat. In most of these
boats,
the cabin is divided into two or more apartments. Sudden
whirlwinds and
squalls being very frequent on the Nile, a boatman
is usually employed to
hold the main-sheet in his hand, that
he may be able to let it fly at a
moment's notice: the traveller
should be especially careful with respect to
this precaution, however
light the wind.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXII.
PUBLIC RECITATIONS OF ROMANCES—continued.
NEXT in point of number to the Shó'ara, among the public reciters
of romances, are those who are particularly and solely distinguished
by the
appellation of “Mohadditeen,” or Story-tellers (in
the
singular, “Mohaddit”). There are said to be about
thirty of
them in
Cairo. The exclusive subject of their narrations is
a
work called “The Life of Ez-Záhir”
(“Seeret Ez-Záhir,” or
“Es-Seereh ez-Záhireeyeh”
1). They recite without
book.
1 Hence the Mohadditeen are sometimes called
“Záhireeyeh.”
The Seeret Ez-Záhir is a romance founded on the history of the
famous Sultán Ez-Záhir Beybars, and many of his
contemporaries.
This prince acceded to the throne of Egypt in the last
month of
the year of the Flight 658, and died in the first month of the
year
676; and consequently reigned a little more than seventeen years,
according to the lunar reckoning, commencing A.D. 1260, and
ending in 1277.
Complete copies of the Seeret Ez-Záhir have
become so scarce
that I have only heard of one existing in Egypt,

which I have purchased: it consists
of six quarto volumes; but
is nominally divided into ten; and is made up of
volumes of
several different copies. The author and his age are
unknown.
The work is written in the most vulgar style of modern
Egyptian
Arabic; but as it was intended for the vulgar, it is likely
that
copyists may have altered and modernized the language. The
oldest
volumes of my copy of it were written a few years more or
less than a
century ago. To introduce my reader to some slight
acquaintance with this
work, I shall insert a translation of a few
pages at the commencement of
the second volume; but, by way
of introduction, I must say something of the
contents of the first
volume.
A person named 'Alee Ibn-El-Warrákah, being commissioned
to
procure memlooks from foreign countries, by El-Melik Es-Sáleh
(a
famous Sultán of Egypt, and a celebrated welee), is related
to
have purchased seventy-five memlooks in
Syria; and to
have added to them,
immediately after, the principal hero of this
romance, a youth named
Mahmood (afterwards called Beybars),
a captive son of Sháh
Jakmak (or Gakmak) King of Khuwárezm.
'Alee was soon after
obliged to give Mahmood to one of his
creditors at Damascus, in lieu of a
debt; and this person presented
him to his wife, to wait upon her son, a
deformed idiot;
but he remained not long in this situation: the sister of
his new
master, paying a visit to his wife, her sister-in-law, found her
about
to beat the young memlook, for having neglected the idiot,
and
suffered him to fall from a bench: struck with the youth's
countenance, as
strongly resembling a son whom she had lost,
and pitying his condition, she
purchased him of her brother,
adopted him, gave him the name of Beybars,
which was that of
her deceased son, and made him master of her whole
property,
which was very great. This lady was called the sitt
Fát'meh
Bint-El-Akwásee (daughter of the bow-maker).
Beybars showed
himself worthy of her generosity; exhibiting many proofs
of
a noble disposition, and signalizing himself by numerous
extraordinary
achievements, which attracted general admiration, but
rendered him obnoxious to the jealousy and enmity of the Básha
of
Syria, 'Eesa En-Násiree, who contrived many plots to ensnare
him, and to put him to death. After a time, Negm-ed-Deen, a
Wezeer of
Es-Sáleh, and husband of a sister of the sitt
Fát'meh,
came on an embassy to Damascus, and to visit his
sister-in-law.
On his return to Egypt, Beybars accompanied him thither;
and
there he was promoted to offices of high dignity by
Es-Sáleh, and

became a particular favourite of
the chief Wezeer, Sháheen El-Afram.
The events which immediately
followed the death of
Es-Sáleh are thus related.
“After the death of El-Melik Es-Sáleh Eiyoob, the
Wezeer
Eybek called together and assembly in his house, and brought
thither the Emeer Kala-oon and his partisans: and the Wezeer
Eybek said to
the Emeer Kala-oon, ‘To-morrow we will go up to
the
deewán with our troops, and either I will be Sultán or
thou
shalt be.' The Emeer Kala-oon answered, ‘So let it be:'
and
they agreed to do this. In like manner, the Wezeer
Sháheen
El-Afram also assembled the Emeer Eydemr
El-Bahluwán and
his troops, and all the friends and adherents of
the Emeer Beybars,
and said to them, ‘To-morrow, arm yourselves,
and go up to the
deewán; for it is our desire to make the Emeer
Beybars Sultán;
since El-Melik Es-Sáleh Eiyoob wrote
for him a patent appointing
him to the sovereignty;' and they answered,
‘On the head and
the eye.' So they passed the night, and rose in
the morning, and
went up to the deewán; and there went thither
also the Wezeer
Eybek Et-Turkamánee, with his troops, and the
Emeer Kala-oon
El-Elfee, with his troops, and the Emeer
'Aláy-ed-Deen (or
'Alá-ed-Deen) El-Beyseree, with his
troops, all of them armed.
The Emeer Beybars likewise went up to the
deewán, with his
troops; and the deewán was crowded
with soldiers. Then said
the Wezeer Sháheen, ‘Rise, O
Beybars; sit upon the throne, and
become Sultán; for thou hast a
patent appointing thee to the
sovereignty.' The Emeer Beybars answered,
‘I have no desire
for the sovereignty: here is present the
Wezeer Eybek, and here
is Kala-oon: make one of them Sultán.'
But the Wezeer Sháheen
said, ‘It cannot be: no one
shall reign but thou.' Beybars replied,
‘By thy head, I will not
reign.' ‘As he pleases,' said the
Wezeer
Eybek.—‘Is the sovereignty to be conferred by
force?'—
‘As he pleases.' The Weezer
Sháheen said, ‘And is the throne
to remain
unoccupied, with no one to act as Sultán?' The
Wezeer Eybek
answered, ‘Here are
we present; and here is
the
Emeer Kala-oon: whosoever will reign, let him reign.' The
Emeer
'Ezzed-Deen El-Hillee said, ‘O Wezeer Sháheen, the
son
of El-Melik Es-Sáleh is living.' The Emeer Beybars asked,
‘Es-Sáleh
has left a son?' The Kurds
1 answered,
‘Yes; and his
name is 'Eesa: he is at El-Karak.' ‘And
why,' said the Wezeer
Sháheen, ‘were ye silent
respecting him?' They replied, ‘We
were silent for no other
reason than this, that he drinks wine.'
1 Es-Sáleh was of the house of
Eiyoob, a family of Kurds.

‘Does he drink wine?'
said the Wezeer Sháheen. The Kurds
answered, ‘Yes.'
The Emeer Beybars said, ‘May our Lord bring
him to repentance!'
‘Then,' said the soldiers, ‘we must go to
the city of
El-Karak, and bring him thence, and make him Sultán.'
The Weezer
Sháheen said to them, ‘Take the Emeer Beybars
with
you:' but Eybek and Kala-oon answered, ‘We will go
before him,
and wait for him there until he come.' The Emeer
Beybars said,
‘So let it be.'
“Upon this, the Wezeer Eybek and Kala-oon and
'Aláy-ed,
Deen El-Beyseree, and their troops, went down from the
deewán
and arranged their affairs, and on the following day
caused their
tents to be brought out, with their provisions, and pitched
outside
the 'A'dileeyeh.
1 Now the Wezeer Sháheen knew that the troops
wished
to create a dissension between the king (El-Melik) 'Eesa
and Beybars. So
the Wezeer Sháheen went down from the
deewán, and
took the Emeer Beybars with him, and went to his
house, and said to him,
‘What hast thou perceived in the departing
of the troops before
thee?' He answered, ‘Those persons
detest me; for they are
bearers of hatred; but I extol the
perfection of Him who is all-knowing
with respect to secret things.'
The Weezer said to him, ‘My son,
it is their desire to go before
thee that they may create a dissension
between thee and El-Melik
'Eesa.' The Emeer Beybars said, ‘There
is no power nor
strength but in God, the High, the Great!' The Wezeer said
to
him, ‘O Beybars, it is my wish to send 'Osmán
Ibn-El-Hebla
2
and Mohammad Ibn-Kámil, the Dromedarist, before the
troops;
and whatever may happen, they will inform us of it.' Beybars
answered, ‘So let it be.' Accordingly, he sent them; and said
to
them, ‘Go before the troops to the castle of El-Karak, and
whatever may happen between them and El-Melik 'Eesa inform
us of it.' They
answered, ‘It is our duty,' and they departed.
Then said the
Wezeer Sháheen, ‘O Beybars, as to thee, do thou
journey to Esh-Shám,
3 and stay in the house of thy (adoptive)
mother,
the sitt Fát'meh Bint-El-Akwásee; and do not go out of
1 “The 'A'dileeyeh” is the
name of a mosque founded by El-Melik El-'A'dil
Toomán Bey,
in the year of the Flight 906 (A.D. 1501), outside the wall
of Cairo,
near the great gate called Báb en-Nasr. The same name is
also
given to the neighbourhood of that mosque.
2 'Osmán (vulgarly called
'Otmán and ᾽Etmán) Ibn-El-Hebla was a
rogue
whom Beybars took into his service as groom, and compelled to vow
repentance
at the shrine of the seyyideh Nefeeseh (great-granddaughter
of the Imám
Hasan), and, soon after, made his mukaddam, or
chief of his servants.

the house until I shall have sent
to thee 'Osmán.' He answered,
‘It is right.' So the
Emeer Beybars rose, and went to his house,
and passed the night, and got up
in the morning, and set out on
his journey to Esh-Shám, and took
up his abode in the house of
his mother, the sitt Fát'meh
Bint-El-Akwásee. We shall have to
speak of him again presently.
“As to 'Osmán Ibn-El-Hebla and Mohammad
Ibn-Kámil, the
Dromedarist, they journeyed until they entered
the castle of El-Karak,
and inquired for the residence of El-Melik 'Eesa,
the son
of El-Melik Es-Sáleh Eiyoob. Some persons conducted them
to
the house; and they entered; and the attendants there asked
them
what was their business. They informed them that they
were from
Masr, and
that they wished to have an interview with
El-Melik 'Eesa, the son of
El-Melik Es-Sáleh Eiyoob. The attendants
went and told the
kikhya, who came and spoke to them;
and they acquainted him with their
errand: so he went and told
El-Melik 'Eesa, saying, ‘Two men are
come to thee from
Masr,
and wish to have an interview with thee: the one is
named
'Osmán; and the other, Mohammad Ibn-Kámil, the
Dromedarist.'
The King said, ‘Go, call 'Osmán.' The
kikhya returned, and
took him, and brought him to El-Melik 'Eesa; and
'Osmán looked
towards the King, and saw him sitting tippling;
and before him
was a candelabrum, and a handsome memlook was serving
him
with wine; and he was sitting by a fountain surrounded by trees.
Osmán said, ‘Mayst thou be in the keeping of God, O
King
'Eesa!' The King answered. ‘Ho! welcome, O
'Osmán!
Come, sit down and drink.' 'Osmán exclaimed,
‘I beg forgiveness
of God! I am a repentant.' The King said,
‘Obey me,
and oppose me not.' Then 'Osmán sat down;
and the King said
to him, ‘Why, the door of repentance is open.'
And 'Osmán
drank until he became intoxicated.
“Now Eybek and Kala-oon and 'Aláy-ed-Deen and their
troops journeyed until they beheld the city of El-Karak, and
pitched their
tents, and entered the city, and inquired for the
house of El-Melik 'Eesa.
The people conducted them to the
house, and they entered; and the
attendants asked them what was
their object: they answered, that they were
the troops of
Masr,
and wished to have an interview with El-Melik 'Eesa.
The attendants
went and told the kikhya, who came, and received them,
and conducted them to the hall of audience, where they sat down,
while he
went and informed El-Melik 'Eesa, saying to him, ‘Come
and speak
to the troops of
Masr who have come to thee.' The

King rose, and went to the troops,
and accosted them; and they
rose, and kissed his hand, and sat down again.
El-Melik'Eesa then
said to them, ‘For what purpose have ye
come?' They answered,
‘We have come to make thee
Sultán in
Masr.' He said, ‘My
father, El-Melik
Es-Sáleh, is he not Sultán?' They replied,
‘The mercy of God, whose name be exalted, be on him! Thy
father
has died a victim of injustice: may our Lord avenge him
on him who killed
him!' He asked, ‘Who killed him?' They
answered, ‘One
whose name is Beybars killed him.' ‘And where
is Beybars?' said
he. They replied, ‘He is not yet come: we
came before him.'
‘Even so,' said he. They then sat with him,
aspersing Beybars in
his absence: and they passed the night there;
and, rising on the following
morning, said to El-Melik 'Eesa, ‘It
is our wish to go out, and
remain in the camp; for Sháheen, the
Wezeer of thy father, is
coming, with the Emeer Beybars; and if
they see us with thee, they will
accuse us of bringing to thee the
information respecting Beybars.' He
answered, ‘Good:' so they
went forth to the camp, and remained
there.
“The Wezeer Sháheen approached with his troops, and
encamped,
and saw the other troops in their camp; but he would
not ask
them any questions, and so entered the city, and went
to El-Melik 'Eesa,
who said to him, ‘Art thou Beybars, who
poisoned my father?' He
answered, ‘I am the Wezeer Sháheen,
the Wezeer of thy
father.' The King said, ‘And where is Beybars,
who poisoned my
father?' The Wezeer replied, ‘Thy father departed
by a natural
death to await the mercy of his Lord: and
who told thee that Beybars
poisoned thy father?' The King
answered, ‘The troops told me.'
‘Beybars,' said the Wezeer, ‘is
in
Esh-Shám: go thither, and charge him in the deewán
with
having poisoned thy father, and bring proof against him.' So the
Wezeer perceived that the troops had been plotting.
“The Wezeer Sháheen then went, with his troops, outside
the
camp; and Mohammad Ibn-Kámil the Dromedarist came to
him,
and kissed his hand. The Wezeer asked him respecting
'Osmán.
He answered, ‘I have no tidings of him.'
Meanwhile, El-Melik
'Eesa went to 'Osmán, and said to him,
‘The Wezeer is come
with his troops, and they are outside the
camp.' So 'Osmán rose,
and, reeling as he went, approached the
tents; and the Wezeer
Sháheen saw him, and perceived that he was
drunk, and called to
him. 'Osmán came. The Wezeer smelt him,
seized him, and
inflicted upon him the ‘hadd';
1 and said to him,
‘Didst thou not

vow to relinquish the drinking of
wine?' 'Osmán answered,
‘El-Melik 'Eesa, whom ye are
going to make Sultán, invited me.'
The Wezeer said,
‘I purpose writing a letter for you to take and
give to the
Emeer Beybars.' 'Osmán replied, ‘Good.' So the
Wezeer
wrote the letter, and 'Osmán took it and departed, and
entered
Esh-Shám, and went to the house of the sitt Fát'meh,
and
gave it to his master, who read it, and found it to contain as
follows.—‘After salutations—from his excellency
the Grand
Wezeer, the Wezeer Sháheen El-Afram, to his honour the
Emeer
Beybars. Know that the troops have aspersed thee, and created
dissensions between thee and El-Melik 'Eesa; and accused thee
of having
poisoned his father, El-Melik Es-Sáleh Eiyoob. Now,
on the
arrival of this paper, take care of thyself, and go not out
of the house,
unless I shall have sent to thee. And the conclusion
of the letter is, that
'Osmán got drunk in the castle of El-Karak.'—Beybars
was vexed with 'Osmán, and said to him,
‘Come hither
and receive a present:' and he stretched forth his
hand, and laid hold of
him. 'Osmán said, ‘What ails thee?'
Beybars
exclaimed, ‘Did I not make thee vow to relinquish the
drinking
of wine?' ‘Has he told thee?' asked 'Osmán. ‘I
will
give thee a treat,' said Beybars: and he took him, and threw him
down, and inflicted upon him the ‘hadd.' ‘How is it,'
said
'Osmán, ‘that the king whom you are going to
make Sultán I
found drinking wine?' Beybars answered,
‘If one has transgressed,
must thou transgress?' ‘And
is this,' asked 'Osmán,
‘the hadd ordained by God?'
Beybars answered, ‘Yes.'
‘Then,' said
'Osmán, ‘the hadd which Aboo-Farmeh
1 inflicted
upon me is a loan, and a
debt which must be repaid him.' Beybars
then said, ‘The troops
have created a dissension between
me and El-Melik 'Eesa; and have accused
me of poisoning his
father, El-Melik Es-Sáleh.' ‘I
beg the forgiveness of God,' said
'Osmán. ‘Those
fellows detest thee; but no harm will come to
us from them.' Beybars said,
‘O 'Osmán, call together the
sáïses,
2 and arm them, and let them remain in the lane of
the
cotton-weavers,
3 and not suffer any troops to enter.' 'Osmán
answered,
‘On the head and the eye:' and he assembled the
sáïses, and armed them, and made them stand in two rows:
then
he took a seat, and sat in the court of the house. The Emeer
1 Eighty stripes, the punishment ordained for
drunkenness.
1 'Osmán, for the sake of a rude
joke, changes the name of the Wezeer
Sháheen (El-Afram) into
an appellation too coarse to be here translated.
2 Grooms, also employed as running footmen.
3 A lane from which the house was entered.

Beybars also armed all his troops,
and placed them in the court
of the house.
“As to El-Melik 'Eesa, he mounted his horse, and departed
with
the troops, and journeyed until he entered Esh-Shám; when
he
went in procession to the deewán, and sat upon the throne,
and
inquired of the King
1 of
Syria respecting Beybars. The
King of
Syria answered,
‘He is in the lane of the cotton-weavers,
in the house of his
mother.' El-Melik 'Eesa said, ‘O Sháheen,
who will go
and bring him?' The Wezeer answered, ‘Send to
him the Emeer
'Aláy-ed-Deen El-Beyseree.' So he sent him.
The Emeer descended,
and went to the lane of the cotton
weavers. 'Osmán saw him, and
cried out to him, ‘Dost thou
remember, thou son of a vile woman,
the chicken which thou
atest?'
2 He then struck him with a mace: the Emeer fell
from his horse; and 'Osmán gave him a bastinading. He returned,
and informed the king; and the King 'Eesa said again, ‘O
Sháheen,
who will go and bring Beybars?' The Wezeer
answered,
‘Send to him the Wezeer Eybek.' The King said,
‘Rise, O
Wezeer Eybek, and go, call Beybars:' but Eybek said,
‘No one
can bring him, excepting the Wezeer.' Then said El-Melik
'Eesa,
‘Rise, O Wezeer Sháheen, and bring Beybars.'
The Wezeer
answered, ‘On the head and the eye; but, before I
bring him,
tell me, wilt thou deal with him according to law, or by
arbitrary
power?' The King said, ‘By law.' Then said the
Wezeer
Sháheen, ‘So let it be: and I spake not thus
from any other
motive than because I fear for thyself and the troops, lest
blood
be shed: for Beybars is very stubborn, and has many troops; and
I fear for the army; for he is himself equal to the whole host:
therefore,
bring accusation against him, and prove by law that he
poisoned thy
father.' The King said, ‘So let it be.'
1 Sometimes called in this work
“Básha” of Syria.
2 This is an allusion to
'Aláy-ed-Deen's having eaten a dish that had been
prepared
for Beybars, when the latter had just entered the service of the
Sultán
Es-Sáleh.
“Then the Wezeer Sháheen descended from the
deewán, and
went to the lane of the cotton-weavers.
'Osmán saw him, and
said, ‘Thou hast fallen into the
snare, O Aboo-Farmeh! the
time of payment is come; and the debt must be
returned to the
creditor. Dost thou know how to give me a bastinading?'
The
Wezeer said, ‘My dream which I saw has proved true.'
‘What
was thy dream?' asked 'Osmán. ‘I
dreamed,' said the Wezeer,
‘last night, that I was travelling,
and some Arabs attacked me,

and surrounded me, and I was
straitened by them; and I saw
thy master, the Emeer Beybars, upon a mount;
and I called out
to him, Come to me, O Emeer Beybars! and he knew me.'
The
Wezeer Sháheen calling out thus, the Emeer Beybars heard
him,
and came down running, with his sword in hand; and found
⊘mán and the sáïses surrounding the
Wezeer. He exclaimed,
‘'Osmán!' and 'Osmán
said, ‘He gave me a bastinading in the
city of El-Karak; and I
want to return it.' The Emeer Beybars
sharply reprimanded him.
‘And so,' said 'Osmán to the Wezeer,
‘thou
hast found a way of escape.' The Wezeer Sháheen then
said,
‘O Emeer Beybars, El-Melik 'Eesa hath sent me to thee:
he
intends to prefer an accusation against thee in the deewán of
Esh-Shám, charging thee with having poisoned his father. Now,
do
thou arm all thy soldiers, and come to the deewán, and fear
not;
but say that which shall clear thee.' Beybars answered, ‘So
let
it be.' He then armed all his soldiers, and went up to the
deewán, and kissed the hand of El-Melik 'Eesa; who said to him,
‘Art thou the Emeer Beybars, who poisoned my father?' Beybars
answered, ‘Prove against me that I poisoned thy father, and
bring the charge before the judge, and adduce evidence: the
Kádee is here.' The King said, ‘I have evidence against
thee.'
Beybars said, ‘Let us see.' ‘Here,' said the
King, ‘are the
Wezeer Eybek and Kala-oon and
'Aláy-ed-Deen.' The Emeer
Beybars asked them, ‘Do ye
bear witness against me that I
poisoned El-Melik Es-Sáleh?' They
answered, ‘Never: we
neither saw it, nor do we know anything of
the matter.' The
Kádee said, ‘Hast thou any witnesses
beside those?' The King
replied, ‘None: no one informed me but
they.' The Kádee
said, ‘O King, those men are
hypocrites, and detest the Emeer
Beybars.' El-Melik 'Eesa thereupon became
reconciled with the
Emeer Beybars, and said to his attendants,
‘Bring a kaftán.'
They brought one. He said to them,
‘Invest with it the Emeer
Beybars;' and added, ‘I
appoint thee, O Beybars, commander-in-chief
of the army.' But Beybars said,
‘I have no desire for
the dignity, and will put on no
kaftáns.' The King asked, ‘Why,
Sir?' Beybars
answered, ‘Because I have been told that thou
drinkest wine.'
The King said, ‘I repent.' ‘So let it be,' said
Beybars: and the King vowed repentance to Beybars: and the
Emeer Beybars
said, ‘I make a condition with thee, O King, that
if thou drink
wine, I inflict upon thee the “hadd;”' and the King
replied, ‘It is right.' Upon this the King invested the Emeer
Beybars
with a kaftán; and a feast was made; and guns were
fired;

and festivities were celebrated:
and they remained in Esh-Shám
three days.
“El-Melik 'Eesa then gave orders for departure; and performed
the
first day's journey. On the second day they came to a valley,
celebrated as
a halting-place of the Prophet, the Director in the
way to heaven: in it
were trees, and brooks, and birds which sang
the praises of the King, the
Mighty, the Pardoner. El-Melik
'Eesa said, ‘Pitch the tents
here: we will here pass the night.'
So they pitched the tents. And the day
departed with its brightness,
and the night came with its darkness: but the
Everlasting
remaineth unchanged: the stars shone; and God, the Living,
the
Self-subsisting, looked upon the creation. It was the period of
the full moon; and the King felt a longing to drink wine by the
side of the
brook and greensward: so he called to Abu-l-Kheyr,
who came to him, and
kissed his hand. The King said to him,
‘Abu-l-Kheyr, I have a
longing to drink wine.' The servant
answered, ‘Hast thou not
vowed repentance to the Emeer Beybars?'
The King said, ‘The door
of repentance is open; so do
thou obey me:' and he gave him ten pieces of
gold. The servant
then went to a convent; and brought him thence a
large
bottle: and the King said to him, ‘If thou see the Emeer
Beybars
coming, call out hay! and as long as thou
dost not see him, call
clover!' The servant answered, ‘Right:' and he
filled a cup,
and handed it to the King. Now, 'Osmán was by the
tents: and
he came before the pavilion of El-Melik 'Eesa; and saw him
sitting drinking wine: so he went, and told his master, the Emeer
Beybars.
Beybars came. Abu-l-Kheyr saw him coming from a
tent, and called out to the
King, ‘Hay! hay!' The King immediately
threw the cup into the brook; Abu-l-Kheyr removed
the bottle; and the King
set himself to praying: and when he
had pronounced the salutation [which
terminates the prayers], he
turned his eyes, and saw the Emeer Beybars, and
said to him,
‘Wherefore art thou come at this hour? Go, sleep:
it is late.'
Beybars answered, ‘I have come to ask thee whether
we shall
continue our journey now, or to-morrow morning.' The King
said, ‘To-morrow morning.' And the Emeer Beybars returned,
vexed
with 'Osmán; and said to him, ‘O 'Osmán, didst
thou not
tell me that the King was sitting drinking wine? Now I have
been, and found him praying. Dost thou utter a falsehood against
the
Sultán?' 'Osman answered, ‘Like as he has smoothed it
over,
do thou also: no matter.' Beybars was silent.
“They passed the night there; and on the following morning El

Melik 'Eesa gave orders for
departure. They journeyed towards
Masr; and when they had arrived at the
'A‘dileeyeh, and pitched
their tents, the Emeer Beybars said,
‘O our lord the Sultán, we
have now arrived at
Masr.'
The King answered, ‘I desire, O
Beybars, to visit the tomb of
the Imám [Esh-Sháfe'ee].' Beybars
said,
‘The thing is right, O our lord the Sultán: to-morrow I
will
conduct thee to visit the Imám.' They remained that night
at the
'A‘dileeyeh; and on the following morning the
Sultán rode in
procession to visit the Imám, and
returned in procession, and
visited the tomb of his father, El-Melik
Es-Sáleh Eiyoob; and
then went in state to the Citadel: and the
'Ulama went up thither,
and inaugurated him as sovereign, and conducted him
into the
armoury; and he drew out from thence a sword, upon which was
inscribed ‘El-Melik El-Mo'azzam:'
1 wherefore they named him
‘'Eesa El-Mo'azzam.' They coined the money with his name,
and
prayed for him on the pulpits of the mosques; and he invested
with
kaftáns the soldiers and the Emeer Beybars, the
commander-in-chief. The Sultán then wrote a patent, conferring
the sovereignty, after himself, upon the Emeer Beybars, to be
King and
Sultán. So the Emeer Beybars had two patents conferring
upon him
the sovereignty; the patent of El-Melik Es-Sáleh
Eiyoob, and the
patent of El-Melik 'Eesa El-Mo'azzam. Eybek
and Kala-oon and
'Aláy-ed-Deen and their partisans, who hated
Beybars, were
grieved at this; but his friends rejoiced. The
troops descended from the
deewán, and went to their houses;
and in like manner the Emeer
Beybars descended in procession,
and went to his house by the
Kanátir es-Sibáa.
“Now the queen Shegeret-ed-Durr sent to El-Melik 'Eesa
El-Mo'azzam.
He went to her palace. She kissed his hand; and
he said
to her, ‘Who art thou?' She answered, ‘The wife of
thy father, El-Melik Es-Sáleh.' ‘And what is thy name?'
said
he. She replied, ‘The Queen Fátimeh
Shegeret-ed-Durr.' He
exclaimed ‘Oh! welcome! pray for me then.'
She said, ‘God
bring thee to repentance!' She then gave him a
charge respecting
the Emeer Beybars; saying, ‘Thy father loved
him above all
the chiefs, and entered into a covenant with him before
God;
and I, also, made a covenant with him before God.' He answered,
‘O Queen, by thy life, I have written for him a patent
conferring upon him the sovereignty after me.' She said, ‘And
thy father, also, wrote for him a patent, conferring upon him the
sovereignty.' The King then said to her, ‘Those chiefs created

a dissension between me and him;
and asserted that he poisoned
my father.' She said, ‘I beg God's
forgiveness! They hate
him.' After this the Queen remained chatting with
him a short
time; and he went to his saloon, and passed the night, and
rose.
“On the following day he held a court; and the hall was filled
with troops. And he winked to Abu-l-Kheyr, and said, ‘Give
me to
drink.' Now he had said to him the day before, ‘To-morrow,
when
I hold my court, and say to thee, Give me to
drink, bring me a water-bottle
full of wine.' So when El-Melik
'Eesa sat upon the throne, and the court,
filled with troops, resembled
a garden, the troops resembling the branches
of plants,
he felt a longing to drink wine, and said to Abu-l-Kheyr,
‘Give
me to drink;' and winked to him; and he brought to him
the
water-bottle; and he drank, and returned it. Then he sat a little
longer, and said again, ‘Give me to drink, O Abu-l-Kheyr;' and
the servant brought the bottle; and he drank, and gave it back.
He sat a
little longer; and again he said, ‘Give me to drink.'
Kala-oon
said, ‘O 'Aláy-ed-Deen, it seems that the
Sultán has
breakfasted upon kawárë'.'
1 Upon this the
Wezeer Sháheen
asked him, ‘What hast thou eaten?' The
King answered, ‘My
stomach is heated and flatulent.' The Wezeer,
however, perceived
the smell of wine; and was vexed. The court then
broke
up; and the troops descended. The Wezeer Sháheen also
descended,
and took with him the Emeer Beybars to his house, and
said
to him, ‘May God take retribution from thee, O Beybars.'
Beybars
said, ‘Why?' The Wezeer answered, ‘Because thou
didst
not accept the sovereignty.' ‘But for what reason sayest
thou
this?' asked Beybars. The Wezeer said, ‘The Sultán
to-day
drank wine, while sitting upon the throne, three times. When
the Vicar of God, in administering the law, intoxicates himself,
his
decisions are null, and he has not any right to give them.'
Beybars
replied, ‘I made a condition with him, that if he drank
wine, I
should inflict upon him the “hadd”; and wrote a
document
to that effect in Esh-Shám.' ‘To-morrow,'
said the Wezeer, ‘when
he holds his court, observe him; and take
the water-bottle, and
see what is in it. I perceived his smell.' Beybars
answered,
‘It is right:' and he arose, and went to his house
sorrowful.
And he passed the night, and rose, and went to the court,
and
found it filled with troops; and he kissed the hand of the
Sultán,
and sat in his place. Presently the Sultán
said, ‘Give me to
drink, O Abu-l-Kheyr:' and the servant brought
the water-bottle;
1 A dish of lamb's feet, cooked with garlic and
vinegar, etc.

and the Sultán drank.
Beybars took hold of the water-bottle;
and said, ‘Give me to
drink.' The servant answered, ‘This is
medicinal water.'
‘No harm,' said Beybars: ‘I have a desire
for it.'
‘It is rose-water,' said the servant. Beybars said,
‘Good:'
and he took the bottle; and said, ‘Bring a
basin.' A basin was
brought; and he poured into it the contents of the
bottle before
the troops; and they saw that it was wine. Then said the
Emeer
Beybars to the Sultán, ‘Is it allowed thee by
God to be His
Vicar, and to intoxicate thyself? Did I not make thee vow
to
relinquish the drinking of wine, and say to thee, If thou drink
it
I will inflict upon thee the “hadd;” and did I not write
a
document to that effect in Esh-Shám?' The Sultan
answered,
‘It is a habit decreed against me, O Beybars.' Beybars
exclaimed,
‘God is witness, O ye troops!' and he took the
Sultán, and beat
him; and he was unconscious, by reason of the
wine that he had
drunk; and he loosed him, and departed from him, and went
to
his house.”
The second volume proceeds to relate the troubles which befell
Beybars in
consequence of his incurring the displeasure of El-Melik
'Eesa by the
conduct just described; his restoration to the
favour of that prince; and
his adventures during the reigns of the
subsequent Sultáns,
Khaleel El-Ashraf, Es-Sáleh the youth, Eybek
(his great and
inveterate enemy), and El-Mudaffar; and then, his
own accession to the
sovereignty. The succeeding volumes contain
narratives of his wars in
Syria
and other countries; detailing
various romantic achievements, and the
exploits of the “Fedáweeyeh,”
or
“Fedáwees,” of his time. The term
Fedáwee, which
is now vulgarly understood to signify any warrior
of extraordinary
courage and ability, literally and properly means a person
who
gives, or is ready to give, his life as a ransom for his
companions,
or for their cause; and is here applied to a class of warriors
who
owned no allegiance to any sovereign unless to a chief of their
own choice; the same class who are called, in our histories of the
Crusades, “Assassins:” which appellation the very learned
orientalist
De Sacy has, I think, rightly pronounced to be a
corruption
of “Hashshásheen,” a name
derived from their making frequent
use of the intoxicating hemp, called
“hasheesh.” The romance
of Ez-Záhir
affords confirmation of the etymology given by De
Sacy; but suggests a
different explanation of it: the Fedáweeyeh
being almost always
described in this work as making use of
“beng” (a
term applied to hemp, and also to henbane, which, in
the present day, is
often mixed with hasheesh) to make a formidable

enemy or rival their prisoner, by
disguising themselves,
inviting him to eat, putting the drug into his food
or drink, and
thus causing him speedily to fall into a deep sleep, so that
they
were able to bind him at their leisure, and convey him whither
they would.
1 The
chief of these warriors is “Sheehah,” called
“Sultán el-Kiláa wa-l-Hosoon” (or
“Sultán of the Castles and
Fortresses”),
who is described as almost constantly engaged, and
generally with success,
in endeavouring to reduce all the Fedáwees
to allegiance to
himself and to Beybars. From his adroitness
in disguises and plots, his
Proteus-like character, his name
has become a common appellation of persons
of a similar description.
Another of the more remarkable characters in this
romance
is “Guwán” (or John), a European
Christian, who, having deeply
studied Muslim law, succeeds in obtaining,
and retains for a few
years, the office of Kádee of the Egyptian
metropolis; and is
perpetually plotting against Beybars, Sheehah, and other
Muslim
chiefs.
1 Since the above was written, I have found that
El-Idreesee applies the
term “Hasheesheeyeh,”
which is exactly synonymous with
“Hashshásheen,”
to the
“Assassins:” this, therefore, decides the
question.
Much of the entertainment derived from recitations of this
work depends upon
the talents of the Mohaddit; who often
greatly improves the stories by his
action, and by witty introductions
of his own invention.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXIII.
PUBLIC RECITATIONS OF ROMANCES—continued.
There is, in
Cairo, a third class of reciters of
romances, who are
called “'Anátireh,” or
“'Antereeyeh” (in the singular
“'Anter'ee”);
but they are much less numerous than
either of the other two
classes before mentioned; their number at present,
if I am rightly
informed, not amounting to more than six. They bear the
above
appellation from the chief subject of their recitations; which
is
the romance of “'Antar” (“Seeret
'Antar”). As a considerable
portion of this interesting work has
become known to English
readers by Mr. Terrick Hamilton's translation, I
need give no
account of it. The reciters of it read it from the book:
they

chant the poetry: but the prose
they read, in the popular manner;
and they have not the accompaniment of
the rabáb. As
the poetry in this work is very imperfectly
understood by the
vulgar, those who listen to it are mostly persons of
some
education.
The 'Anátireh also recite from other works than that from
which
they derive their appellation. All of them, I am told,
occasionally relate
stories from a romance called “Seeret
el-Mugáhideen”
(“The History of the
Warriors”), or, more commonly,
“Seeret
Delhem'eh,” or “Zu-l-Himmeh,”
1 from a heroine
who is the chief character in the work. A few years since, they
frequently
recited from the romance of “Seyf Zu-l-Yezen”
(vulgarly
called “Seyf El-Yezen,” and
“Seyf El-Yezel”), a work
abounding with tales of
wonder; and from “The Thousand and
One Nights”
(“Elf Leyleh wa-Leyleh”), more commonly known,
in our
country, by the title of “The Arabian Nights'
Entertainments.”
The great scarcity of copies of these two works
is, I
believe, the reason why recitations of them are no longer heard:
even fragments of them are with difficulty procured; and when a
complete
copy of “The Thousand and One Nights” is found, the
price demanded for it is too great for a reciter to have it in his
power to
pay. I doubt whether the romances of Aboo-Zeyd,
Ez-Záhir,
'Antar, and Delhem'eh, are chosen as the subjects
of recitation because
preferred to “The Thousand and One
Nights;” but it is
certain that the modern Muslims of Egypt
have sufficient remains of Bedawee
feeling to take great delight
in hearing tales of war.
1 The latter, being a masculine appellation, is
evidently a corruption of the
former. The name is written
“Delhem'eh” in the older portions of some
volumes
in my possession, made up of fragments of this work. One of these
portions appears to be at least three centuries old. In some of the
more
modern fragments, the name is written
“Zu-l-Himmeh.”
That my reader may have some notion of all the works from
which the
professional reciters of romances in
Cairo draw materials
for the amusement
of their audiences in the present day, I
shall give a sketch of some of the
adventures related in the
romance of Delhem'eh. This work is even more
scarce than any
of those before mentioned. The copies, I am told, were
always
in fifty-five volumes. After long search, all that I have
succeeded
in procuring of it is a portion consisting of the first three
volumes
(containing, together, 302 pages), and another portion,
consisting
of the forty-sixth and forty-seventh volumes. The former
would

present a good specimen of the
work, were not the greater part
written in a hand scarcely legible; in
consequence of which, and
of the many other subjects that now demand my
attention, I have
only been able to read the first volume. The chief
subjects of
this work, according to the preface, are the warlike exploits
of
Arabs of the Desert in the times of the Khaleefehs of the houses
of
Umeiyeh and El-'Abbás. It is composed from the narratives
of
various writers: nine names of the authors are mentioned;
but none of them
are at present known: their history and their
age are alike uncertain; but
the style of their narratives shows
them to be not modern. The account
which the 'Anátireh and
Mohadditeen generally give of this
romance is as follows.—When
El-Asma”ee (or, as he is
vulgarly called, El-Asmo”ee) composed,
or compiled, the history
of 'Antar,
1 that work
(they say) became
extremely popular, and created so great an enthusiasm on
the
subjects of the adventures of Arab warriors, that a diligent
search
was made for all tales of the same kind; and from these was
compiled the Seeret el-Mugáhideen, or Delhem'eh, by some
author
now unknown; who, as he could not equal the author of
'Antar in eloquence,
determined to surpass him in the length of
his narratives; and 'Antar being
generally in forty-five volumes,
he made his book fifty-five. The romance
of Delhem'eh abounds
in poetry, which is not without beauties, nor without
faults; but
these are, perhaps, mostly attributable to copyists. Of a part
of
what I have read, which introduces us to one of the principal
characters in the work, I shall now give an abridged translation.
1 The 'Ulama in general despise the romance of
'Antar, and ridicule the
assertion that El-Asma”ee was its
author.
At the commencement of the work, we are told that in the
times of the
Khaleefehs of the house of Umeiyeh, none of the Arab
tribes surpassed in
power, courage, hospitality, and other virtues
for which the Arabs of the
Desert are so famous, the Benee-Kiláb,
whose territory was in
the Hegáz: but the viceroy of the Khaleefeh
over the collective
tribes of the desert was the chief of the
Benee-Suleym, who prided
themselves on this distinction, and on
their wealth. El-Háris,
the chief of the Benee-Kiláb, a horseman
unrivalled in his day,
in one of the predatory excursions which he
was wont frequently to make
against other tribes, took captive a
beautiful girl, named
Er-Rabáb (or the Viol), whom he married.
She became pregnant;
and, during her pregnancy, dreamed that
a fire issued from her, and burnt
all her clothing. Being much
troubled by this dream, she related it to her
husband; and he,

alike surprised and distressed,
immediately searched for, and soon
found, a person to interpret it. An old
sheykh informed him that
his wife would bear a son of great renown, who
would have a son
more renowned than himself, and that the mother of the
former
would be in danger of losing her life at the time of his birth.
This prophecy he repeated to the wife of El-Háris, and at her
request he wrote an amulet to be tied upon the infant's right arm
as soon
as he should be born; upon which amulet he recorded
the family and pedigree
of the child:—“This child is the son of
El-Háris the son of Khálid the son of 'A'mir the son of
Saasa”ah
the son of Kiláb; and this is his pedigree
among all the Arabs of
the Hegáz; and he is verily of the
Benee-Kiláb.” Soon after this
El-Háris
fell sick, and, after a short illness, died. Most of the
Arabs of
neighbouring tribes, who had been subjected and kept
in awe by him,
rejoiced at his death, and determined to obtain
retribution by plundering
his property. This coming to the ears
of his widow, Er-Rabáb,
she determined to return to her family,
and persuaded a black slave who had
belonged to her late husband
to accompany her. By night, and without having
mentioned
their intention to any one else, they departed, and at
midnight
they approached a settlement of Arabs whose chief was the
Emeer
Dárim. Here the slave, tempted by the Devil, led her from
the
road, and impudently told her that her beauty had excited in his
breast a passion which she must consent to gratify. She indignantly
refused; but the fright that she received from his base
conduct occasioned
a premature labour, and in this miserable
state she gave birth to a son.
She washed the infant with the
water of a brook that ran by the spot,
wrapped it in a piece of
linen which she tore off from her dress, tied the
amulet to its arm,
and placed it to her breast. Scarcely had she done this,
when the
slave, infuriated by disappointment, drew his sword and
struck
off her head. Having thus revenged himself, he fled.
Now it happened, as Providence had decreed, that the wife of
the Emeer
Dárim had just been delivered of a son, which had
died; and the
Emeer, to dissipate his grief on this account, went
out to hunt, with
several of his people, on the morning after Er-Rabáb
had been
murdered. He came to the spot where her
corpse lay, and saw it. The infant
was still sucking the breast of
its dead mother; and God had sent a flight
of locusts, of the kind
called “gundub,” to shade it
from the sun with their wings. Full
of astonishment at the sight, he said
to his Wezeer, “See this
murdered damsel, and this infant on her
lap, and those flying

insects shading it, and the dead
mother still affording it milk!
Now, by the faith of the Arabs, if thou do
not ascertain the history
of this damsel, and the cause of her murder, I
behead thee
like her.” The Wezeer answered, “O King,
none knoweth what
is secret but God, whose name be exalted! Was I with her?
or
do I know her? But promise me protection, and I will inform
thee
what I suppose to have been the case.” The King said,
“I
give thee protection.” Then said the Wezeer,
“Know, O King,
—but God is
most-knowing,—that this is the daughter of some
King; and she
has grown up, and a servant has had intercourse
with her; and by him she
has conceived this child; and her
family have become acquainted with the
fact, and killed her.
This is my opinion, and there is an end of
it.” The King exclaimed,
“Thou dog of the Arabs! what
is this that thou sayest
to the prejudice of this damsel? By Allah! if I
had not promised
thee protection, I had slain thee with the edge of the
sword!
If she had committed this crime, she would not be affording the
child her milk after she was dead; nor would God have sent these
flying
insects to shade the infant.” He then sent for a woman to
wash
the corpse, and after it had been washed and bound in grave-clothes,
he
buried it respectably.
From the circumstance of the gundub shading him with their
wings, the
foundling received the name of “El-Gundub'ah.” The
Emeer Dárim conveyed it to his wife, and persuaded her to bring
it up as her own; which she did until the child had attained the
age of
seven years; when he was sent to school; and there he
remained until he had
learned the Kur-án. By the time he had
attained to manhood, he
had become a horseman unrivalled; he
was like a bitter colocynth, a viper,
and a calamity.
1
1 These are not terms of reproach among the
Arabs, but of praise.
Now his adoptive father, the Emeer Dárim, went forth one day,
according to his custom, on a predatory expedition, accompanied
by a
hundred horsemen. Falling in with no booty, he proceeded
as far as the
territory of a woman called Esh-Shamta (or the
Grizzle), whom the heroes of
her time held in fear, on account of
her prowess and strength; and who was
possessed of great wealth.
He determined to attack her. She mounted her
horse in haste,
on hearing of his approach, and went forth to meet him and
his
party. For a whole hour she contended with them; killed the
greater number; and put the rest to flight, except the Emeer
Dárim, whom she took prisoner, and led in bonds, disgraced and
despised, to her fortress. Those of his attendants who had fled

returned to their tribes, and
plunged them in affliction by the
story they related. The Emeer
Dárim had ten sons. These all
set out together, with a number of
attendants, to rescue their
father; but they all became the prisoners of
Esh-Shamta; and
most of their attendants were killed by her. El-Gundub'ah
now
resolved to try his arms against this heroine. He went alone,
unknown
to any of the tribe, except his foster-mother, and arrived
at
the place of his destination. Esh-Shamta was on the top of her
fortress.
She saw him approach, a solitary horseman; and perceived
that his riding
was that of a hero. In haste she descended,
and mounted her horse, and went
out to meet him. She shouted
against him; and the desert resounded with her
shout; but El-Gundub'ah
was unmoved by it. They defied each other, and
met; and for a whole hour the contest lasted: at length El-Gundub'ah's
lance pierced the bosom of Esh-Shamta; its glittering
point protruded
through her back; and she fell from her horse,
slain, and weltering in her
blood. Her slaves, who were forty in
number, seeing their mistress dead,
made a united attack upon
her victor; but he unhorsed them all; and then,
reproaching them
for having served a woman when they were all men of
prowess,
admonished them to submit to him; upon which they all
acknowledged
him as their master. He divided among them the treasures
of Esh-Shamta; and released his adoptive father and brothers,
with whom he
returned to the tribe.
This exploit spread the fame of El-Gundub'ah among all the
tribes of the
desert; but it excited envy in the breast of the Emeer
Dárim,
who soon after desired him to seek for himself some other
place of abode.
El-Gundub'ah remonstrated; but to no effect;
and prepared for his
departure. When he was about to go, the
Emeer Dárim desired to
be allowed to open the amulet that was
upon El-Gundub'ah's arm, and to read
what was written upon the
paper. Having obtained permission, and done this,
he uttered a
loud shout; and several of his people coming in to inquire
the
cause of this cry, he said to them, “This youth is the son
of your
enemy El-Háris, the Kilábee: take him, and
slay him:” but El-Gundub'ah
insisted that they should contend
with him one by one.
The Emeer Dárim was the first to challenge
him; and addressed
him in these verses:
1—
1 When the narrator introduces poetry, he
generally desires his readers and
hearers to bless the Prophet.
Frequently he merely says, “Bless ye the
Apostle:” and often, “Bless ye him for [the visit to]
whose tomb burdens are
bound:” i.e.
“Bless ye him whose tomb is an object of pilgrimage:”
for,
though the pilgrimage ordained by the Kur-án is that to
the temple of Mekkeh
and Mount 'Arafát, yet the Prophet's
tomb is also an object of pious pilgrimage.
— I translate
the poetry from this tale verse for verse, imitating the system
pursued
with regard to rhyme in the originals.

“This day I forewarn thee of death and
disgrace,
From my weapon, thou offspring of parents base!
Didst thou think, thou vile foundling, to raise
thyself,
O'er the heads of our tribe, to the foremost place?
Thy hope is now baffled: thy wish is deceiv'd:
For to-day we have known thee of hostile race.
Thy bloodthirsty father oppressed our tribe:
Both our men and our wealth were his frequent preys:
But to-day shall be taken a full revenge:
All our heroes shall see me their wrongs efface.
Be assur'd that thy death is now near at hand;
That my terrible lance shall pierce thee apace;
For 'twas I introduced thee among our tribe;
And the foe that I brought I will now
displace.”
El-Gundub'ah replied, “O my uncle, thou hast treated me with
kindness: do not repent of it; but let me depart from you in
peace: cancel
not the good that thou hast done.” But Dárim
answered, “Use no protraction: for thy death is determined
on.”
Then El-Gundub'ah thus addressed him:—
“Be admonish'd, O Dárim! thy
steps retrace;
And haste not thus rashly thy fate to embrace.
Hast thou ever seen aught of evil in me?
I have always nam'd thee with honour and praise.
By my hand and lance was Esh-Shamta destroy'd,
When thou wast her captive, in bonds and disgrace:
I freed thee from bondage: and is it for this
We are now met as enemies, face to face?
God be judge between us: for He will be just,
And will show who is noble, and who is
base.”
As soon as he had said these words, the Emeer Dárim charged
upon
him. They fought for a whole hour; and at last, El-Gundub'ah
pierced the
breast of Dárim with his spear; and the point
protruded,
glittering, from the spine of his back. When Dárim's
sons saw
that their father was- slain, they all attacked El-Gundub'ah;
who received
them as the thirsty land receives a drizzling
rain: two of them he killed:
the rest fled; and acquainted their
mother with the events they had just
witnessed. With her head
uncovered, and her bosom bare, she came weeping to
El-Gundub'ah,
and thus exclaimed:—
“O Gundub'ah! thy lance hath wrought havoc
sore:
Man and youth have perished; and lie in their
gore;

And among them, the eldest of all my sons.
They are justly punish'd; but now I implore
That thou pardon the rest: in pity for me
Restrain thy resentment; and slaughter no more.
By my care of thy childhood! and by these breasts
Which have nourished thee, noble youth, heretofore!
Have mercy upon us; and leave us in peace:
In spite of thy wrongs, this contention give o'er.
I love thee as though thou wert truly my son;
And thy loss I shall sorrow for,
evermore.”
El-Gundub'ah listened to her address; and when she had
finished, he thus replied:—
“O Mother! by Him whom we all adore!
And the just Mustaf'a Tá-Há!
1 I deplore
1 Tá-Há (which
is the title of the 20th chapter of the Kur-án, and
is composed
of two letters of the Arabic alphabet) is
considered, and often used, as a
name of the Arabian
Prophet (of whom Mustaf'a and Ahmad, as well as Mohammad,
are also names): so likewise is Yá-Seen, which is the
title of the 36th
chapter of the Kur-án.
The actions which I have been made to commit;
Deeds against my will; and not thought of before:
But God, to whose aid I ascribe my success,
Had of old decreed these events to occur.
For thy sake their pardon I grant; and I would
If their lances had made my life-blood to pour.
To withdraw myself hence, and sever the ties
Of affection and love, is a trial sore.
While I live I shall constantly wish thee peace,
And joy uninterrupted for evermore.”
Having said thus, El-Gundub'ah took leave of his foster-mother,
and departed
alone, and went to the fortress of Esh Shamta. The
slaves saw him approach;
and met him: and, in reply to their
inquiries, he informed them of all that
had just befallen him. He
then asked if any of them were willing to go with
him in search of
a better territory, where they might intercept the
caravans, and
subsist by plunder; and they all declaring their readiness
to
accompany him, he chose from among them as many as he desired,
and
left the rest in the fortress. He travelled with his slaves
until they came
to a desolate and dreary tract, without verdure or
water; and the slaves,
fearing that they should die of thirst, conspired
against his life: but
El-Gundub'ah, perceiving their discontent,
and guessing their intention,
pressed on to a tract abounding
with water and pasture; and here they
halted to rest. El-Gundub'ah
watched until all of them had fallen asleep;
and then despatched
them, every one, with his sword. Having done this,
he

pursued his journey during the
night; and in the morning he
arrived at a valley with verdant sides, and
abundance of pasture,
with lofty trees, and rapid streams, and birds whose
notes proclaimed
the praises of the Lord of Power and Eternity. In the
midst of this valley he saw a Bedawee tent, and a lance stuck by
it in the
ground, and a horse picketed. The Emeer Gundub'ah
fixed his eyes upon this
tent; and as he looked at it, there came
forth from it a person of elegant
appearance, completely armed,
who bounded upon the horse, and galloped
towards him, without
uttering a word to engage him in combat.
“My brother!” exclaimed
El-Gundub'ah,
“begin with salutation before the stroke
of the sword; for that
is a principle in the nature of the noble.”
But no answer was
returned. They fought until their spears were
broken, and till their swords
were jagged: at length El-Gundub'ah
seized hold of the vest beneath his
antagonist's coat of mail, and
heaved its wearer from the saddle to the
ground. He uplifted
his sword; but a voice, so sweet, it would have cured
the sick,
exclaimed, “Have mercy on thy captive, O hero of the
age!”
“Art thou a man?” said El-Gundub'ah,
“or a woman?” “I am
a virgin
damsel,” she replied: and drawing away her
“litám,”
1
displayed a face like the moon at the full. When El-Gundub'ah
beheld
the beauty of her face, and the elegance of her form, he
was bewildered,
and overpowered with love. He exclaimed, “O
mistress of
beauties, and star of the morn, and life of souls!
acquaint me with thy
secret, and inform me of the truth of thy
history.” She replied,
“O hero of our time! O hero of the age
and period! shall I
relate to thee my story in narrative prose, or in
measured
verse?” He said, “O beauty of thine age, and
peerless-one
of thy time! I will hear nothing from thee but measured
verse.” She then thus related to him all that had happened to
her:—
“O thou noble hero, and generous knight!
1 The
“litám” (or
“lithám”) is a piece of drapery
with which a Bedawee
often covers the lower part of his
face. It frequently prevents his being recognised
by
another Arab, who might make him a victim of
blood-revenge.
Thou leader of warriors! and foremost in fight!
Hear, now, and attend to the story I tell.
I'm the virgin daughter, thou hero of might!
Of El-Melik
2 Káboos! and a maid whose fame
2 It was the custom to entitle the
chief of a powerful tribe “El-Melik,”
or
“the King.”
Has been raised, by her arms, to an envied height;
Acknowledg'd a heroine, bold and expert,
Skill'd alike with the lance and the sword to
smite.

Many suitors sought me in marriage, but none
Could ever induce me his love to requite;
And I swore by my Lord, the Compassionate,
And the noble Mustaf'a, that moon-like light,
That to no man on earth I would e'er consent
In the bonds of marriage myself to unite,
Unless to a hero for prowess renown'd,
To one who should prove himself hardy in fight
Who in combat should meet me, and overcome,
And never betray the least weakness or fright.
My suitors assembled: I fought each in turn;
And I vanquish'd them all in our people's sight:
Not a horseman among them attain'd his wish;
For I parried the thrusts of each daring knight.
I was justly ‘The Slayer of Heroes' nam'd;
For no match could be found for my weapon bright.
But I fear'd my father might force me, at last,
To accept, as my husband, some parasite;
And therefore I fled; and, in this lonely place,
With my troop of horsemen, I chose to alight.
Here we watch for the passing caravans;
And with plunder we quiet our appetite.
Thou hast made me thy captive, and pardon'd me:
Grant me one favour more: my wish do not slight:
Receive me in marriage: embrace me at once;
For I willingly now acknowledge thy
right.”
“Kattálet-esh-Shug'án,” or the Slayer
of Heroes (for so was this
damsel named, as above related by herself), then
said to El-Gundub'ah,
“Come with me and my party to my
abode.” He
went with her; and her people received them with joy;
and
feasted the Emeer Gundub'ah three days. On the fourth day,
Kattálet-esh-Shug'án assembled the people of her tribe,
with El-Gundub'ah,
at her own dwelling; and regaled them with a
repast,
to which high and low were admitted. After they had eaten,
they began to converse; and asked El-Gundub'ah to acquaint
them with his
history. He accordingly related to them what had
befallen him with the
Emeer Dárim; how he had liberated him
and his sons from
captivity; and how ungratefully he had been
treated. There were ten persons
sitting with him; and nine of
these recounted their deeds in arms. The
tenth, who was a slave,
was then desired to tell his story; and he related
his having served
the Emeer Háris, and murdered his widow.
El-Gundub'ah heard
with impatience this tale of his mother's murderer; and,
as soon
as it was finished, drew his sword, and struck off the slave's
head;
exclaiming, “I have taken my blood-revenge upon this
traitor
slave!” The persons present all drew their swords, and
raised a

tremendous shout.
Kattálet-esh-Shug'án was not then with them;
but she
heard the shout, and instantly came to inquire the cause;
which they
related to her; demanding, at the same time, that El-Gundub'ah
should be
given up to them to be put to death. She
drew them aside, and told them
that he had eaten of her food,
and that she would not give him up, even if
he had robbed her of
her honour; but that she would advise him to take his
departure
on the morrow, and that, when he should have left her abode,
they might do as they pleased. She then went to him, and told
him of his
danger. He asked what he should do. She answered,
“Let us marry
forthwith, and depart from these people:” and
this he gladly
consented to do.
They married each other immediately, taking God alone for
their witness; and
departed at night, and proceeded on their way
until the morning, giving
thanks to their Lord. For four days
they continued their journey; and on
the fifth day arrived at a
valley abounding with trees and fruits and birds
and running
streams. They entered it at midnight. Seeing something
white
among the trees, they approached it; and found it to be a horse,
white as camphor. They waited till morning; and then beheld a
settlement of
Arabs: there were horses, and she and he camels,
and tents pitched, and
lances stuck in the ground, and pavilions
erected; and among them was a
great company; and there were
maids beating tambourines: they were
surrounded with abundance.
Through this valley, El-Gundub'ah and his bride
took
their way: his love for her increased: they conversed together;
and her conversation delighted him. She now, for the first time,
ventured
to ask him why he had killed the slave, when he was her
guest; and he
related to her the history of this wretch's crime.
After this, they talked
of the beauties of the valley which they had
entered; and while they were
thus amusing themselves, a great dust
appeared; and beneath it were seen
troops of horsemen galloping
along. El-Gundub'ah immediately concluded that
they were
of his wife's tribe, and were come in pursuit of him; but he
was
mistaken: for they divided into four parties, and all attacking,
in
different quarters at the same time, the tribe settled in the
valley
soon made the latter raise piteous cries and lamentations, and
rend the air with the shouts of “O 'A'mir! O
Kiláb!” When
El-Gundub'ah heard the cries of
“O 'A'mir! O Kiláb!” he exclaimed
to his
wife, “These people are the sons of my uncle! my
flesh and my
blood!” and instantly determined to hasten to their
assistance.
His bride resolved to accompany him; and they both

together rushed upon the enemy,
slaying every horseman in their
way, and piercing the breasts of those on
foot, with such fury and
such success, that the defeated tribe rallied
again, repulsed their
assailants, and recovered all the booty that been
taken; after
which they returned to El-Gundub'ah, and asked him who he
was.
He answered, “This is not a time to ask questions; but a
time
to rest from fight and slaughter.” So they took him with
them,
and retired to rest; and after they had rested and eaten, he
related to them his history. Delighted with his words, they all
exclaimed,
“The truth hath appeared; and doubt is dissipated:
justice is
rendered to the deserving; and the sword is returned to
its
scabbard!” They immediately acknowledged him their rightful
chief: but, after the death of El-Háris, they had chosen for
their chief an Emeer named Gábir, who hated El-Háris,
and
termed him a robber; and this Emeer now disputed their choice,
and
challenged El-Gundub'ah to decide the matter by combat.
was accepted, and
the two rivals met and fought;
but, though Gábir was a thorough
warrior, El-Gundub'ah slew
him. This achievement obtained him the
possession of Gábir's
mare, an animal coveted throughout the
desert: the rest of the
property of the vanquished chief he left to be
parted among the
tribe. There were, however, many partisans of
Gábir; and these,
when they saw him slain, gathered themselves
together against
El-Gundub'ah: but he, with the assistance of his own
party,
defeated them, and put them to flight. Returning from their
pursuit, he sat among his people and kinsfolk; and the sheykhs
of his tribe
brought him horses and arms and everything necessary:
he received gifts
from every quarter: his wife, also, was presented
with ornaments; and from
that day the Emeer Gundub'ah
was acknowledged by all his tribe as the chief
of the Benee-Kiláb.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXIV.
PERIODICAL PUBLIC FESTIVALS, ETC.
Many of the most remarkable customs of the modern
Egyptians
are witnessed at their periodical public festivals celebrated
in
Cairo; the more important of which I shall here describe. Most
of
these festivals and other anniversaries take place at particular
periods of
the lunar, Mohammadan year.
The first ten days of “Moharram” (the first month of
the
Mohammadan year) are considered as eminently blessed; and
are
celebrated with rejoicing: but the tenth day is especially
honoured. They
are vulgarly called the “'ashr;” the derivation
of
which term will be explained hereafter. The custom of selling,
during this
period of ten days, what is called “mey'ah
mubárakah,”
to be used, during the ensuing year, as a
charm against the
evil eye, whenever occasion may require, I have already
mentioned
in the second of the two chapters devoted to the
superstitions
of the modern Egyptians.—I have also mentioned
that it is
considered, by the Egyptians, unlucky to make a
marriage-contract
in Moharram.
It is a common custom of the Muslims of Egypt to give what
they can afford
in alms during the month of Moharram; especially
in the first ten day, and
more especially on the tenth day;
1 and
many pretend, though few of them really do
so, to give, at this
season, the “zekah,” or alms
required by their law, of which I
have spoken in a former chapter: they
give what, and to whom,
they will. During the ten days above mentioned, and
particularly
on the tenth, many of the women of
Cairo, and even those in
respectable
circumstances, if they have a young child, carry it
through
the streets, generally on the shoulder, or employ female to
carry it, for the purpose of soliciting alms from any well-dressed
person
whom they may chance to meet: sometimes the mother
or bearer of the child,
and sometimes the child itself, asks for the
alms; saying, “My
master, the alms of the 'ashr.” The word
“'ashr” is vulgarly understood as meaning the
“ten days;” but I
think it signifies the
“ten nights;” though I am informed that it
is a
corruption of “oshr,” a term improperly used of
“ruba el-'oshr”
(the quarter of the tenth, or the
fortieth part), which is the
proportion that the Muslim is required, by
law, to give in alms of
the money which he possesses, and of some other
articles of property.
The sum generally given to a child in the case above
described
is a piece of five faddahs;
2 and this, and as many others
as can be procured
in the same manner, are sometimes spent in
sweetmeats, etc., but more
usually sewed to the child's cap, and
1 This custom seems to have been copied from the
Jews, who are accustomed
to abound in almsgiving and other good works
during the ten days
commencing with their New Year's Day and ending
with the Day of Atonement,
more than in all the rest of the
year.—See Dr. M'Caul's “Old Paths,”
pp. 125, 129.
2 At present, equivalent to a farthing and
one-fifth

worn thus until the next Moharram;
when, if the child be not too
old, the same custom is repeated for its
sake; the pieces of money
thus obtained being considered as charms.
The women of Egypt, and particularly of
Cairo, entertain some
curious
superstitions respecting the first ten days of Moharram.
They believe that
“ginn” (or genii) visit some people by night
during
this period; and say that, on this occasion, a ginnee appears
sometimes on
the form of a sakka or water-carrier), and
sometimes in that of mule. In
the former case the mysterious
visitor is called “sakka
el-'ashr” (or “the water-carrier of the
'ashr”); in the latter, “baghlet el-'ashr”
(“the mule of the 'ashr”).
When the ginnee, they say,
comes in the form of a sakka, he
knocks at the chamber-door of a person
sleeping, who asks, “Who
is there?” The ginnee
answers, “I, the sakka; where shall I
empty [the
skin]?” The person within, as sakkas do not come
at night, knows
who his visitor is, and says, “Empty into the
water-jar;” and, going out afterwards, finds the jar full of
gold.—
The ginnee in the form of a mule is described in a more
remarkable
manner. He bears a pair of saddle-bags filled with gold; a
dead man's head is placed upon his back, and round his neck is
hung a
string of little round bells, which he shakes at the door of
the chamber of
the person whom he comes to enrich. This person
comes out, takes off the
dead man's head, empties the saddlebags
of their valuable contents, then
fills them with straw or bran
or anything else, replaces them, and says to
the mule, “Go, O
blessed!”—Such are the
modes in which the good genii pay
their zekah. During the first ten days of
Moharram, many an
ignorant woman ejaculates this petition: “O my
Lord, send me
the water-carrier of the 'ashr!” or,
“Send me the mule of the
'ashr!” The men, in general,
laugh at these superstitions.
Some of the people of
Cairo say that a party of gennii, in the
forms and
garbs of ordinary mortals, used to hold a midnight
“sook” (or market) during the first ten days of Moharram,
in a
street called Es-Saleebeh, in the southern part of the
metropolis,
before an ancient sarcophagus, which was called
“el-Hód el-Marsood”
(or “the
Enchanted Trough”). This sarcophagus was in
a recess under a
flight of steps leading up to the door of a
mosque adjacent to the old
palace called Kal'at el-Kebsh: it was
removed by the French during their
occupation of Egypt, and is
now in the British Museum. Since its removal,
the sook of the
genii, it is said, has been discontinued. Very few persons,
I am
told, were aware of this custom of the genii. Whoever happened

to pass through the street where
they were assembled and bought
anything of them, whether dates or other
fruit, cakes, bread, etc.,
immediately after found his purchase converted
into gold.
The tenth day of Moharram is called
“Yóm'A'shoora.” It is
held sacred on many
accounts: because it is believed to be the
day on which the first meeting
of Adam and Eve took place after
they were cast out of Paradise; and that
on which Noah went
out from the ark; also, because several other great
events are
said to have happened on this day; and because the ancient
Arabs,
before the time of the Prophet, observed it by fasting. But
what,
in the opinion of most modern Muslims, and especially the
Persians,
confers the greatest sanctity on the day of 'A'shoora, is
the
fact of its being that on which El-Hoseyn, the Prophet's grandson,
was slain, a martyr, at the battle of the plain of Karbal'a.
Many Muslims
fast on this day, and some also on the day preceding.
As I am now writing on the day of 'A'shoora, I shall mention
the customs
peculiar to it which I have witnessed on the present
occasion.—I
had to provide myself with a number of five-faddah
pieces before I went out
this day for the alms of the 'ashr, already
mentioned. In the streets of
the town I saw many young children,
from about three to six or seven years
of age, chiefly girls,
walking about alone, or two or three together, or
carried by
women, and begging these alms.—In the course of the
morning,
a small group of blind fakeers, one of whom bore a
half-furled
red flag, with the names of El-Hoseyn and other worthies
worked
upon it in white, stopped in the street before my door, and
chanted a petition for an alms. One of them began, “O thou
who
hast alms to bestow on the blessed day of
'A'shoora!”—the
others then continued, in chorus,
“A couple of grains of wheat!
A couple of grains of rice! O
Hasan! O Hoseyn!” The
same words were repeated by them several
times. As soon as
they had received a small piece of money, they passed on,
and
then performed the same chant before other houses, but only
where
appearances led them to expect a reward. Numerous
groups of fakeers go
about the town in different quarters during
this day, soliciting alms in
the same manner.
On my paying a visit to a friend a little before noon, a dish,
which it is
the custom of the people of
Cairo to prepare on the
day of 'A'shoora, was
set before me. It is called “hoboob,” and
is prepared
with wheat steeped in water for two or three days,
then freed from the
husks, boiled, and sweetened over the fire

with honey or treacle; or it is
composed of rice instead of wheat;
generally, nuts, almonds, raisins, etc.,
are added to it. In most
houses this dish is prepared, or sweetmeats of
various kinds are
procured or made, in accordance with one of the
traditions of the
Prophet; which is—“Whoso giveth
plenty to his household on
the day of 'A'shoora, God will bestow plenty
upon him throughout
the remainder of the year.”
After the call to noon-prayers, I went to the mosque of the
Hasaneyn, which,
being the reputed burial-place of the head of
the martyr El-Hoseyn, is the
scene of the most remarkable of the
ceremonies that, in
Cairo, distinguish
the day of 'A'shoora. The
avenues to this mosque, near the
Kádee's court, were thronged
with passengers; and in them I saw
several groups of dancing-girls
(Gházeeyehs); some dancing, and
others, sitting in a ring
in the public thoroughfare, eating their dinner,
and (with the exclamation
of “bi-smi-llah!”) inviting
each well-dressed man who
passed by to eat with them. One of them struggled
hard with
me to prevent my passing without giving them a present. The
sight of these unveiled girls, some of them very handsome, and
with their
dress alluringly disposed to display to advantage their
fine forms, was but
ill calculated to prepare men who passed by
them for witnessing religious
ceremonies; but so it is, that, on
the occasions of all the great religious
festivals in
Cairo, and at
many other towns in Egypt, these female warrers
against modesty
(not always seductive, I must confess) are sure to be seen.
On
my way to the mosque, I had occasion to rid myself of some of
the
small coins which I had provided, to give them to children.
My next
occasion for disbursing was on arriving before the
mosque, when several
water-carriers, of the class who supply
passengers in the streets,
surrounded me; I gave two of them
twenty faddahs, for which each of them
was to distribute the contents
of the earthen vessel which he bore on his
back to poor
passengers, for the sake of “our lord
El-Hoseyn.”
On entering the mosque, I was much surprised at the scene
which presented
itself in the great hall, or portico. This, which
is the principal part of
the mosque, was crowded with visitors,
mostly women of the middle and lower
orders, with many children;
and there was a confusion of noises like what
may be heard
in a large schoolroom where several hundred boys are engaged
in
play: there were children bawling and crying, men and women
calling
to each other, and, amid all this bustle, mothers and children
were
importuning every man of respectable appearance for

the alms of the 'ashr. Seldom have
I witnessed a scene more
unlike that which the interior of a mosque
generally presents;
and in this instance I was the more surprised, as the
Gámë' el-Hasaneyn
is the most sacred of all the
mosques in
Cairo. The
mats which are usually spread upon the pavement had
been
removed; some pieces of old matting were put in their stead,
leaving many parts of the floor uncovered; and these, and every
part, were
covered with dust and dirt brought in by the feet of
many shoeless persons:
for on this occasion, as it is impossible
to perform the ordinary prayers
in the mosque, people enter without
having performed the usual ablution,
and without repairing
first to the tank to do this; though every person
takes off his,
or her, shoes, as at other times, on entering the mosque,
many
leaving them, as I did mine, with a door-keeper. Several parts
of
the floor were wetted (by children too young to be conscious
of the
sanctity of the place); and though I avoided these parts, I
had not been
many minutes in the mosque before my feet were
almost black with the dirt
upon which I had trodden, and with
that from other persons' feet which had
trodden upon mine. The
heat, too, was very oppressive; like that of a
vapour-bath, but
more heavy; though there is a very large square aperture
in the
roof, with a malkaf
1 of equal width over it, to introduce the
northern breezes. The pulpit-stairs and the gallery of the muballigheen
were crowded with women; and in the assemblage below
the women were far
more numerous than the men. Why this
should be the case I know not, unless
it be because the women
are more superstitious, and have a greater respect
for the day of
'A'shoora, and a greater desire to honour El-Hoseyn by
visiting
his shrine on this day.
1 The “malkaf” has been
described in the Introduction to this work,
page 14.
It is commonly said by the people of
Cairo, that no man goes
to the mosque
of the Hasaneyn on the day of 'A'shoora but for
the sake of the women; that
is, to be jostled among them; and
this jostling he may indeed enjoy to the
utmost of his desire, as
I experienced in pressing forward to witness the
principal ceremonies
which contribute with the sanctity of the day to
attract such
swarms of people. By the back-wall, to the right of the
pulpit,
were seated, in two rows, face to face, about fifty darweeshes,
of
various orders. They had not yet begun their performances, or
“zikrs,” in concert; but one old darweesh, standing
between the
two rows, was performing a zikr alone, repeating the name of

God (Alláh), and bowing
his head each time that he uttered the
word, atlernately to the right and
left. In pushing forward to see
them, I found myself in a situation rather
odd in a country
where it is deemed improper for a man even to touch a
woman
who is not his wife or slave or a near relation. I was so
compressed
in the midst of four women, that, for some minutes, I
could
not move in any direction, and pressed so hard against one
young woman,
face to face, that, but for her veil, our cheeks had
been almost in
contact: from her panting, it seemed that the
situation was not quite easy
to her; though a smile, expressed at
the same time by her large black eyes,
showed that it was amusing:
she could not, however, bear it long, for she
soon cried out,
“My eye!
1 do not squeeze me so violently.” Another
woman
called out to me, “O Efendee! by thy head! push on to
the
front, and make way for me to follow thee.” With
considerable
difficulty I attained the desired place, but in getting
thither I had
almost lost my sword and the hanging sleeves of my jacket:
some
person's dress had caught the guard of the sword, and had nearly
drawn the blade from the scabbard before I could get hold of the
hilt. Like
all around me, I was in a profuse perspiration.
1 This is a common expression of affection,
meaning, “Thou who art as
dear to me as my
eye.”
The darweeshes I found to be of different nations, as well as
of different
orders. Some of them wore the ordinary turban and
dress of Egypt; others
wore the Turkish ká-ook, or padded cap;
and others, again, wore
high caps, or tartoors, mostly of the sugarloaf
shape. One of them had a
white cap of the form last mentioned,
upon which were worked, in black
letters, invocations to
the first four Khaleefehs, to El-Hasan and
El-Hoseyn, and to
other eminent saints, founders of different orders of
darweeshes.
2
Most of the darweeshes were Egyptians; but there were among
them many
Turks and Persians. I had not waited many minutes
before they began their
exercises. Several of them first drove
back the surrounding crowd with
sticks; but as no stick was
raised at me, I did not retire so far as I
ought to have done; and
before I was aware of what the darweeshes were
about to do, forty
of them, with extended arms and joined hands, had formed
a large
ring, in which I found my self enclosed. For a moment I felt
2 The words were, “Yá
Aboo-Bekr, Yá ‘Omar, Yá
‘Osmán, Yá 'Alee,
Yá Hasan,
Yá Hoseyn, Yá seyyid Ahmad Rifá'ah,
Yá seyyid 'Abd-el-Kádir,
El-Geelánee,
Yá seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee, Yá seyyid
Ibráheem Ed-Dasookee.”

half inclined to remain where I
was, and join in the zikr; bow,
and repeat the name of God; but another
moment's reflection on
the absurdity of the performance, and the risk of my
being discovered
to be no darweesh, decided me otherwise; so, parting
the hands of two the darweeshes, I passed outside the ring.
The darweeshes
who formed the large ring (which enclosed four
of the marble columns of the
portico) now commenced their zikr,
exclaiming over and over again,
“Alláh!” and, at each exclamation,
bowing
the head and body, and taking a step to the right;
so that the whole ring
moved rapidly round. As soon as they
commenced this exercise, another
daraweesh, a Turk, of the order
of Mowlawees, in the middle of the circle,
began to whirl; using
both his feet to effect the motion, and extending his
arms: the
motion increased in velocity until his dress spread out like
an
umbrella. He continued whirling thus for about ten minutes,
after
which he bowed to his superior, who stood within the great
ring; and then,
without showing any signs of fatigue or giddiness,
joined the darweeshes in
the great ring; who had now begun to
ejaculate the name of God with greater
vehemence, and to jump
to the right, instead of stepping. After the
whirling, six other
darweeshes, within the great ring, formed another ring,
but a very
small one; each placing his arms upon the shoulders of those
next
him; and thus disposed, they performed a revolution similar to
that to the larger ring, excepting in being much more rapid;
repeating,
also, the same exclamation of “Alláh!” but with
a
rapidity proportionably greater. This motion they maintained for
about the same length of time that the whirling of the single darweesh
before had occupied; after which the whole party sat down
to
rest.—They rose again after the lapse of about a quarter of an
hour; and performed the same exercise a second time.—I saw
nothing more in the great portico that was worthy of remark,
excepting two
fakeers (who, a bystander told me, were
“megázeeb,”
or idiots), dancing, and
repeating the name of God, and
each beating a tambourine.
I was desirous of visiting the shrine of El-Hosyen on this anniversary
of
his death, and of seeing if any particular ceremonies
were performed there
on this occasion. With difficulty I pushed
through the crowd in the great
portico to the door of the saloon
of the tomb; but there I found
comparatively few persons colleced.
On my entering, one of the servants of
the mosque conducted
me to an unoccupied corner of the bronze screen
which
surrounds the monument over the place where the martyr's head

is said to be buried, that I might
there recite the Fát'hah: this
duty performed, he dictated to me
the following prayer; pausing
after every two or three words, for me to
repeat them, which I
affected to do; and another person, who stood on my
left, saying
“A'meen” (or Amen), at the close of each
pause. “O God,
accept my visit, and perform my want, and cause
me to attain my
wish; for I come with desire and intent, and urge Thee by
the
seyyideh Zeyneb, and the Imám Esh-Sháfe'ee, and
the Sultán
Aboo-so'ood,”
1 After this followed similar words in
Turkish;
which were added in the supposition that I was a Turk, and
perhaps
did not understand the former words in Arabic. This short
supplication has been often dictated to me at the tombs of saints
in
Cairo
on festival days. On the occasion above described,
before I proceeded to
make the usual circuit round the screen
which encloses the monument, I gave
to the person who dictated
the prayer a small piece of money, and he, in
return, presented
me with four little balls of bread, each about the size
of a hazelnut.
This was consecrated bread, made of very fine flour at
the
tomb of the seyyid Ahmad El-Bedawee; and brought hither, as
it is
to several saints' tombs in
Cairo on occasions of general visiting,
to be
given to the more respectable of the visitors. It is
called
“'Eysh es-seyyid El-Bedawee.” Many persons in Egypt
keep a little piece of it (that is, one of the little balls into which
it
is formed) constantly in the pocket, as a charm; others eat it,
as a
valuable remedy against any disorder, or as a preventive of
disease.
1 Aboo-So'ood was a very famous saint; and,
being esteemed the most holy
person of his day, received the
appellation of “Sultán,” which has been
conferred
upon several other very eminent welees, and, when thus
applied, signifies
“King of Saints.” The tomb of
Aboo-So'ood is among the mounds of rubbish
on the south of
Cairo.
Generally, towards the end of “Safar” (the second month),
the
caravan, of Egyptian pilgrims, returning from Mekkeh, arrives at
Cairo: hence, this month is vulgarly called “Nezlet
el-Hágg”
(the Alighting of the Pilgrims). Many
pilgrims, coming by the
Red Sea, arrive before the caravan. A caravan of
merchant
pilgrims arrives later than the main body of pilgrims.
An officer, called “Sháweesh
el-Hágg,” arrives about four or
five days before the
caravan, having pushed on, with two Arabs,
mounted on fleet dromedaries, to
announce the approach of the
Hágg,
2 and the expected day of their arrival at
the metropolis;
2 The term
“hágg” is applied both collectively and
individually (to the
whole caravan, or body of pilgrims, and to a
single pilgrim).

and to bring letters from pilgrims
to their friends. He and his
two companions exclaim, as they pass along, to
the passengers in
the way, “Blessing on the Prophet!”
or, “Bless the Prophet!”
and every Muslim who hears
the exclamation responds, “O God,
favour
him!”—They proceed directly to the Citadel, to convey
the news to the Básha or his representative. The
Sháweesh
divides his letters into packets, with the exception of
those which
are to great or wealthy people, and sells them, at so many
dollars
a packet, to a number of persons who deliver them, and receive
presents from those to whom they are addressed; but sometimes
lose by their
bargains. The Sháweesh himself delivers those to
the great and
rich; and obtains from them handsome presents
of money, or a shawl, etc.
Some persons go out two or three days' journey, to meet their
friends
returning from pilgrimage; taking with them fresh provisions,
fruits, etc.,
and clothes, for the wearied pilgrims. The
poorer classes seldom go further
than the Birket el-Hágg (or Lake
of the Pilgrims), about eleven
miles from the metropolis, and the
place where the caravan passes the last
night but one before its
entry into the metropolis; or such persons merely
go to the last
halting-place. These usually take with them some little
luxury
in the way of food, and an ass, as an agreeable substitute to
the
pilgrim for his jaded and uneasy camel;
1 together with some
clean, if not
new, clothes; and many go out with musicians to
pay honour to their
friends. It is very affecting to see, at the
approach of the caravan, the
numerous parties who go out with
drums and pipes to welcome and escort to
the city their friends
arrived from the holy places, and how many, who went
forth in
hope, return with lamentation instead of music and rejoicing;
for
the arduous journey through the desert is fatal to a great number
of those pilgrims who cannot afford themselves necessary conveniences.
Many
of the women who go forth to meet their husbands
1 Many persons who have not applied themselves
to the study of natural
history are ignorant of the remarkable fact
that the camel has in itself a provision
against hunger, besides its
well-known supply against thirst. When
deprived of its usual food for
several successive days, it feeds upon the fat of
its own hump, which,
under these circumstances, gradually disappears before
the limbs are
perceptible reduced. This explanation of the use of an excrescence,
which would otherwise seem a mere inconvenient incumbrance, shows
how
wonderfully the camel is adapted to the peculiar circumstances in which
providence has placed it, and perhaps may be applied with equal
propriety
to the hump of the bull and cow, and some other animals, in
hot and arid
climates.

or sons receive the melancholy
tidings of their having fallen
victims to privation and fatigue. The
piercing shrieks with which
they rend the air as they retrace their steps
to the city are often
heard predominant over the noise of the drum, and the
shrill
notes of the hautboy, which proclaim the joy of
others.—The pilgrims,
on their return, are often accosted, by
passengers, with the
petition, “Pray for pardon for
me;” and utter this short ejaculation,
“God pardon
thee!” or, “O God! pardon him!” This
custom owes its origin to a saying of the Prophet—“God
pardoneth
the pilgrim, and him for whom the pilgrim implores
pardon.”
I write the following account of the Nezlet el-Hágg just after
witnessing it, in the year of the Flight 1250 (A.D. 1834).—The
caravan arrived at its last halting-place, the Hasweh, a pebbly
tract of
the desert, near the northern suburb of
Cairo, last night,
on the eve of
the 4th of Rabeea el-Owwal. A few pilgrims left the
caravan after sunset,
and entered the metropolis. The caravan
entered this morning, the fourth of
the month. I was outside
the walls soon after sunrise, before it drew near;
but I met two
or three impatient pilgrims, riding upon asses, and preceded
by
musicians or by flag-bearers, and followed by women singing;
and I
also met several groups of women who had already been
out to make inquiries
respecting relations whom they expected,
and were returning with shrieks
and sobs. Their lamentation
seemed more natural, and more deeply felt, than
that which is
made at funerals. This year, in addition to a great many
deaths,
there were to be lamented a thousand men who had been seized
for the army: so that, perhaps, there was rather more wailing
than is
usual. About two hours and a half after sunrise, the
caravan began to draw
near to the gates of the metropolis, parted
in three lines: one line
towards the gate called Báb en-Nasr;
another directly towards
the Báb el-Futooh; and the third, branching
off from the second,
to the Báb el-'Adawee. The caravan this
year was more numerous
than usual (though many pilgrims went
by sea); and, in consequence of the
seizure of so many men
for the army, it comprised an uncommon proportion of
women.
Each of the three lines into which it divided to enter the
metropolis,
as above mentioned, consisted, for the most part, of an
uninterrupted train of camels, proceeding one by one; but sometimes
there
were two abreast; and in a few places the train was
broken for a short
space. Many of the pilgrims had quitted their
camels to take the more easy
conveyance of asses; and rode

beside their camels; many of them
attended by musicians, and
some by flag-bearers.
The most common kind of camel-litter used by the pilgrims is
called a
“musattah,” or “heml musattah.” It
resembles a small,
square tent; and is chiefly composed of two long chests,
each
of which has a high back: these are placed on the camel in the
same manner as a pair of panniers, one on each side; and the
high backs,
which are placed outwards, together with a small
pole resting on the
camel's pack-saddle, support the covering
which forms what may be called
the tent. This conveyance
accommodates two persons. It is generally open at
the front;
and may also be opened at the back. Though it appears
comfortable,
the motion is uneasy; especially when it is placed upon a
camel that has been accustomed to carry heavy burdens, and
consequently has
a swinging walk: but camels of easy pace are
generally chosen for bearing
the musattah and other kinds of
litters. There is one kind of litter called
a “shibreeyeh,” composed
of a small, square platform,
with an arched covering. This
accommodates but one person; and is placed on
the back of the
camel: two shhárahs (or square chests), one on
each side of the
camel, generally form a secure foundation for the
shibreeyeh.
The most comfortable kind of litter is that called a
“takht'rawán,”
which is most commonly
borne by two camels; one before,
and the other behind: the head of the
latter is painfully bent
down under the vehicle. This litter is sometimes
borne by four
mules; in which case its motion is more easy. Two light
persons may travel in it. In general, it has a small projecting
meshrebeeyeh of wooden lattice-work at the front and back, in
which one or
more of the porous earthen water-bottles so much
used in Egypt may be
placed.
I went on to the place where the caravan had passed the last
night. During
my ride from the suburb to this spot, which
occupied a little more than
half an hour (proceeding at a slow
pace), about half the caravan passed me;
and in half an hour
more almost the whole had left the place of
encampment.
1
I
was much interested at seeing the meetings of wives, brothers,
sisters, and children, with the pilgrims: but I was disgusted with
one
pilgrim: he was dressed in ragged clothes, and sitting on a
little bit of
old carpet, when his wife, or perhaps his sister, came
out to him,
perspiring under the weight of a large bundle of
1 Had I remained stationary, somewhat more than
two hours would have
elapsed before the whole caravan had passed me.

clothes, and fervently kissed him,
right and left: he did not rise
to meet her; and only made a few cold
inquiries.—The Emeer
el-Hágg (or chief of the
caravan), with his officers, soldiers,
etc., were encamped apart from the
rest of the caravan. By his
tent a tall spear was stuck in the ground; and
by its side also
stood the “Mahmal,” or
“Mahmil”
1 (of which I shall presently
give a sketch and
description); with its travelling cover, of
canvas, ornamented with a few
inscriptions.
1 This seems to be the correct appellation, but
it is commonly called “Mahmal;”
and I shall
follow, on future occasions, the usual pronunciation.
Many of the pilgrims bring with them, as presents, from “the
holy
territory,” water of the sacred well of
“Zemzem” (in china
bottles, or tin or copper flasks),
pieces of the “kisweh” (or covering)
of the Kaabeh
(which is renewed at the season of the pilgrimage),
dust from the Prophet's
tomb (made into hard cakes),
“libán” (or
frankincense), “leef” (or fibres of the palm-tee,
used in washing, as we employ a sponge), combs of aloes-wood,
“sebhahs” (or rosaries) of the same or other materials,
“miswáks”
(or sticks for cleaning the
teeth, which are generally
dipped in Zemzem-water, to render them more
acceptable),
“kohl” (or black powder for the eyes),
shawls, etc., of the manufacture
of the Hegáz,
2 and various things
from India.
2 Or, as pronounced in Arabia,
Hejáz.
It is a common custom to ornament the entrance of a pilgrim's
house a day,
or two or three days, before his arrival; painting
the door, and colouring
the alternate courses of stone on each
side and above it with a deep dull
red, and white; or, if it be
of brick, ornamenting it in a similar manner,
with broad horizontal
stripes of red and white: often also trees, camels,
etc., are
painted in a very rude manner, in green, black, red, and
other
colours. The pilgrim sometimes writes to order this to be done.
On the evening after his arrival, he entertains his friends with
a feast,
which is called “the feast of the Nezleh.” Numerous
guests come to welcome him, and to say, “Pray for pardon for
me.” He generally remains at home a week after his return; and
on the seventh day gives to his friends another entertainment,
which is
called “the feast of the Subooa.” This continues
during
the day and ensuing night; and a khatmeh, or a zikr, is usually
performed in the evening.
On the morning after that on which the main body of the
pilgrims of the
great caravan enter the metropolis, another
spectacle is witnessed: this is
the return of the Mahmal, which

is borne in procession from the
Hasweh, through the metropolis,
to the Citadel. This procession is not
always arranged exactly
in the same order: I shall describe it as I have
this day witnessed

THE MAHMAL.
it, on the morning after the return of the pilgrims of which I
have
just given an account.
First, I must describe the Mahmal itself. It is a square

skeleton-frame of wood, with a
pyramidal top; and has a covering
of black brocade, richly worked with
inscriptions and ornamental
embroidery in gold, in some parts upon a ground
of green or red
silk, and bordered with a fringe of silk, with tassels
surmounted
by silver balls. Its covering is not always made after the
same
pattern with regard to the decorations; but in every cover that
I
have seen, I have remarked, on the upper part of the front, a
view of the
Temple of Mekkeh, worked in gold; and, over it, the
Sultán's
cypher. It contains nothing; but has two mus-
hafs (or
copies of the
Kur-án), one on a scroll, and the other in the usual
form of a
little book, and each enclosed in a case of gilt silver,
attached,
externally, at the top. The sketch which I insert will
explain this
description. The five balls with crescents, which
ornament the Mahmal, are
of gilt silver. The Mahmal is borne
by a fine tall camel, which is
generally indulged with exemption
from every kind of labour during the
remainder of its life.
It is related that the Sultán Ez-Záhir Beybars, King of
Egypt,
was the first who sent a Mahmal with the caravan of pilgrims to
Mekkeh, in the year of the Flight 670 (A.D. 1272), or 675; but
this custom,
it is generally said, had its origin a few years before
his accession to
the throne. Sheger-ed-Durr (commonly called
Shegeret-ed-Durr), a beautiful
Turkish female slave, who became
the favourite wife of the
Sultán Es-Sáleh Negm-ed-Deen, and on
the death of his
son (with whom terminated the dynasty of the
house of Eiyoob) caused
herself to be acknowledged as Queen of
Egypt, performed the pilgrimage in a
magnificent “hódag” (or
covered litter),
borne by a camel; and for several successive years
her empty
hódag was sent with the caravan merely for the sake
of state.
Hence, succeeding princes of Egypt sent, with each
year's caravan of
pilgrims, a kind of hódag (which received the
name of
“Mahmal,” or “Mahmil”), as an emblem
of royalty;
and the kings of other countries followed their example.
1 The
Wahhábees prohibited the Mahmal as an object of vain pomp:
it
afforded them one reason for intercepting the caravan.
1 Almost all travellers have given erroneous
accounts of the Mahmal: some
asserting that its covering is that which
is destined to be placed over the tomb
of the Prophet: others, that it
contains the covering which is to be suspended
round the Kaabeh.
Burckhardt, with his general accuracy, describes it as a
mere emblem of
royalty.
The procession of the return of the Mahmal, in the year above
mentioned,
entered the city, by the Báb en-Nasr, about an hour
after
sunrise. It was headed by a large body of Nizám (or

regular) infantry. Next came the
Mahmal, which was followed,
as usual, by a singular character: this was a
long-haired, brawny,
swarthy fellow, called
“Sheykh-el-Gemel” (or Sheykh of the Camel),
almost
entirely naked, having only a pair of old trousers: he was
mounted on a
camel, and was incessantly rolling his head. For
many successive years this
sheykh has followed the Mahmal, and
accompanied the caravan to and from
Mekkeh; and all assert,
that he rolls his head during the whole of the
journey. He is
supplied by the government with two camels and his
travelling
provisions. A few years ago there used also to follow the
Mahmal,
to and from Mekkeh, an old woman, with her head uncovered,
and
only wearing a shirt. She was called “Umm-el-Kutat”
(or
the Mother of the Cats), having always five or six cats sitting
about her on her camel.—Next to the sheykh of the camel, in the
procession which I have begun to describe, followed a group of
Turkish
horsemen; and then about twenty camels, with stuffed
and ornamented
saddles, covered with cloth, mostly red and
green. Each saddle was
decorated with a number of small flags,
slanting forward from the fore
part, and a small plume of ostrich-feathers
upon the top of a stick fixed
upright upon the same part;
and some had a large bell hung on each side;
the ornaments on
the covering were chiefly formed of the small shells
called cowries.
I think I perceived that these camels were slightly tinged
with
the red dye of the henna; as they are on other similar occasions.
They were followed by a very numerous body of Bedawee horsemen;
and with
these the procession was closed.
Having been misinformed as to the time of the entry of the
Mahmal, on my
arriving at the principal street of the city I found
myself in the midst of
the procession; but the Mahmal had
passed. Mounting a donkey that I had
hired, I endeavoured to
overtake it; but it was very difficult to make any
progress; so,
without further loss of time, I took advantage of some
bye-streets,
and again joined the procession: I found, however, that I
had
made very little advancement. I therefore dismounted; and,
after
walking and running, and dodging between the legs of the
Bedawees' horses,
for about half an hour, at length caught a
glimpse of the Mahmal, and, by a
great effort, and much squeezing,
overtook it soon after, about a quarter
of an hour before it
entered the great open place called the Rumeyleh,
before the
Citadel. After touching it three times, and kissing my hand,
I
caught hold of the fringe, and walked by its side. The guardian
of
the sacred object, who walked behind it, looked very hard at

me, and induced me to utter a pious
ejaculation, which perhaps
prevented his displacing me; or possibly my
dress influenced
him; for he only allowed other persons to approach and
touch it
one by one; and then drove them back. I continued to walk by
its side, holding the fringe, nearly to the entrance of the Rumeyleh.
On my
telling a Muslim friend, to-day, that I had done
this, he expressed great
astonishment; and said that he had never
heard of any one having done so
before; and that the Prophet
had certainly taken a love for me, or I could
not have been
allowed: he added, that I had derived an inestimable
blessing;
and that it would be prudent in me not to tell any others of
my
Muslim friends of this fact, as it would make them envy me so
great
a privilege, and perhaps displease them. I cannot learn
why the Mahmal is
esteemed so sacred. Many persons showed
an enthusiastic eagerness to touch
it; and I heard a soldier exclaim,
as it passed him, “O my Lord!
Thou hast denied my
performing the pilgrimage!” The streets
through which it passed
were densely crowded: the shops were closed; and
the mastab'ahs
occupied by spectators. It arrived at the Rumeyleh
about
an hour and a half after it had entered the metropolis: it
crossed
this large place to the entrance of the long open space called
Kara Meydán: next proceeded along the latter place, while
about
twelve of the guns of the Citadel fired a salute: then returned
to the
Rumeyleh, and proceeded through it to the northern
gate of the Citadel,
called Báb el-Wezeer.
A curious custom is allowed to be practised on the occasions
of the
processions of the Mahmal and Kisweh; which latter, and
a more pompous
procession of the Mahmal, on its departure for
Mekkeh, will be hereafter
described. Numbers of boys go about
the streets of the metropolis in
companies; each boy armed with
a short piece of the thick end of a
palm-stick, called a “makra”ah,”
in which
are made two or three splits, extending from the
larger end to about half
the length; and any Christian or Jew
whom they meet they accost with the
demand of “Hát el-'ádeh,”
or
“Give the customary present:” if he refuse the gift of
five or
ten faddahs, they fall to beating him with their
makra”ahs. Last
year a Frank was beaten by some boys, in
accordance with this
custom, and sought refuge in a large
wekáleh; but some of the
boys entered after him, and repeated
the beating. He complained
to the Básha, who caused a severe
bastinading to be administered
to the sheykh of the wekáleh, for
not having protected him.
In the beginning of the month of “Rabeea el-Owwal” (the

third month) preparations are
commenced for celebrating the
festival of the Birth of the Prophet, which
is called “Moolid
en-Nebee.” The principal scene of
this festival is the south-west
quarter of the large open space called
Birket el-Ezbekeeyeh,
almost the whole of which, during the season of the
inundation,
becomes a lake: this is the case for several years together at
the
time of the festival of the Prophet, which is then celebrated on
the margin of the lake; but at present, the dry bed of the lake
is the
chief scene of the festival. In the quarter above mentioned,
several large
tents (called “seewáns”) are pitched; mostly
for
darweeshes, who, every night, while the festival lasts, assemble
in
them, to perform zikrs. Among these is erected a mast
(sáree),
firmly secured by ropes, and with a dozen or more lamps
hung to it.
Around it, numerous darweeshes, generally about fifty or sixty,
form
a ring, and repeat zikrs. Near the same spot is erected what is
termed a “káïm;” which consists of
four masts erected in a line,
a few yards apart, with numerous ropes
stretched from one to the
other and to the ground: upon these ropes are
hung many lamps;
sometimes in the form of flowers, lions, etc.; sometimes
of words,
such as the names of God and Mohammad, the profession of the
faith, etc.; and sometimes arranged in a merely fanciful, ornamental
manner. The preparations for the festival are generally
completed on the
second day of the month; and on the following
day the rejoicings and
ceremonies begin: these continue, day and
night, until the twelfth night of
the month; that is, according to
the Mohammadan mode of reckoning, the
night preceding the
twelfth day of the month; which night is that of the
Moolid,
properly speaking.
1 During this period of nine days and nights,
numbers of the inhabitants of the metropolis flock to the
Ezbekeeyeh.—I
write these notes during the Moolid; and
shall
describe the festival of this year (the year of the Flight 1250,
A.D. 1834); mentioning some particulars in which it differs from
those of
former years.
1 The twelfth day of Rabeea el-Owwal is also the
anniversary of the death of Mohammad. It is
remarkable that his birth and death are both related to
have happened
on the same day of the same month, and on the same day of
the week,
namely, Monday.
During the day-time, the people assembled at the principal
scene of the
festival are amused by Shá'ers (or reciters of the
romance of
Aboo-Zeyd), conjurers, buffoons, etc. The Ghawázee
have lately
been compelled to vow repentance, and to relinquish
their profession of
dancing, etc.: consequently, there are now

none of them at the festival. These
girls used to be among the
most attractive of all the performers. In some
parts of the
neighbouring streets, a few swings and whirligigs are erected,
and
numerous stalls for the sale of sweetmeats, etc. Sometimes,
rope-dancers, who are gipsies, perform at this festival; but there
are none
this year. At night, the streets above mentioned are
lighted with many
lamps, which are mostly hung in lanterns of
wood;
1 numbers of shops and stalls, stocked
with eatables,
chiefly sweetmeats, are open during almost the whole of
the
night; and so also are the coffee-shops; at some of which, as
well
as in other places, Shá'ers or Mohaddits amuse whoever
chooses
to stop and listen to their recitations. Every night, an
hour or more after
midnight, processions of darweeshes pass
through this quarter: instead of
bearing flags, as they do in the
day, they carry long staves, with a number
of lamps attached to
them at the upper part, and called
“menwars.” The procession
of a company of darweeshes,
whether by day, with flags, or by
night, with menwars, is called the
procession of the “ishárah” of
the sect;
that is, of the “banner;” or rather, the term
“ishárah”
is applied to the procession
itself. These darweeshes are mostly
persons of the lower orders, and have
no distinguishing dress:
the greater number wear an ordinary turban, and
some of them
merely a tarboosh, or a padded or felt cap; and most of
them
wear the common blue linen or cotton, or brown woollen,
shirt—the
dress which they wear on other occasions, at their
daily work,
or at their shops.
1 Like that represented in Chap. VI.
On the last two nights, the festival is more numerously attended
than on the
preceding nights; and the attractions are greater. I
shall describe what I
have just witnessed on the former of these
nights.
This being the eleventh night of the lunar month, the moon
was high, and
enlivened the scenes of festivity. I passed on to
a street called Sook
El-Bekree, on the south of the Birket el-Ezbekeeyeh,
to witness what I was
informed would be the best
of the zikrs that were to be performed. The
streets through
which I passed were crowded; and persons were here
allowed,
on this occasion, to go about without lanterns. As is usually
the
case at night, there were scarcely any women among the passengers.
At the scene of the zikr in the Sook El-Bekree, which
was more crowded than
any other place, was suspended a very
large “negefeh”
(a chandelier, or rather a number of chandeliers,

chiefly of glass, one below
another, placed in such a manner that
they all appeared but one),
containing about two or three hundred
kandeels (or small glass lamps
1). Around this were
many lanterns
of wood, each having several kandeels hanging through
the
bottom. These lights were not hung merely in honour of the
Prophet: they were near a “záwiyeh” (or small
mosque) in
which is buried the sheykh Darweesh
2 El-'Ashmáwee; and this
night was his Moolid. A zikr is performed here every Friday-night
(or what
we call Thursday-night); but not with so much
display as on the present occasion. I observed many Christian
black turbans
here; and having seen scarcely any elsewhere this
night, and heard the
frequent cry of “A grain of salt in the eye
of him who doth not
bless the Prophet!” ejaculated by the
sellers of sweetmeats,
etc., which seemed to show that Christians
and Jews were at least in danger
of being insulted, at a time
when the zeal of the Muslims was unusually
excited, I asked the
reason why so many Copts should be congregated at the
scene
of this zikr: I was answered, that a Copt, who had become a
Muslim, voluntarily paid all the expenses of this Moolid of the
sheykh
Darweesh. This sheykh was very much revered: he was
disordered in mind, or
imitated the acts of a madman; often
taking bread and other eatables, and
stamping upon them, or
throwing them into dirt; and doing many other things
directly
forbidden by his religion; yet was he esteemed an eminent
saint;
for such acts, as I have remarked on a former occasion, are
considered
the results of the soul's being occupied in devotion. He
died about eight years ago.
1 Represented in Chap. V., near the end.
2 This was his name, not a title.
The “zikkeers” (or the performers of the zikr), who were
about
thirty in number, sat cross-legged, upon matting extended close
to the houses on one side of the street, in the form of an oblong
ring.
Within this ring, along the middle of the matting, were
placed three very
large wax-candles, each about four feet high,
and stuck in a low
candlestick. Most of the zikkeers were Ahmed'ee
darweeshes, persons of the
lower orders, and meanly
dressed: many of them wore green turbans. At one
end of the
ring were four “munshids” (or singers of
poetry), and with them
was a player on the kind of flute called
“náy.” I procured a
small seat of
palm-sticks from a coffee-shop close by, and, by
means of a little pushing,
and the assistance of my servant,
obtained a place with the munshids, and
sat there to hear a complete

act, or
“meglis,” of the zikr; which I shall describe as
completely
as I can, to convey a notion of the kind of zikr most
common
and most approved in
Cairo. It commenced at about three
o'clock
(or three hours after sunset); and continued two hours.
The performers began by reciting the Fát'hah, altogether; their
sheykh (or chief) first exclaiming,
“El-Fát'hah!” They then
chanted the
following words:—“O God, favour our lord Mohammad
among the former generations; and favour our lord Mohammad
among the latter
generations; and favour our lord Mohammad
in every time and period; and
favour our lord Mohammad among
the most exalted princes,
1 unto the day of
judgment: and favour
all the prophets and apostles among the inhabitants of
the heavens
and of the earth: and may God (whose name be blessed and
exalted!) be well pleased with our lords and our masters, those
persons of
illustrious estimation, Aboo-Bekr and 'Omar and
'Osmán and
'Alee, and with all the other favourites of God. God
is our sufficiency;
and excellent is the Guardian! And there is
no strength nor power but in
God, the High, the Great! O
God! O our Lord! O Thou liberal of pardon! O
Thou most
bountiful of the most bountiful! O God! Amen!”
They
were then silent for three or four minutes; and again recited the
Fát'hah, but silently. This form of prefacing the zikr is
commonly
used by almost all orders of darweeshes in Egypt.
After this preface, the performers began the zikr. Sitting in the
manner
above described, they chanted, in slow measure, “Lá
iláha
illa-lláh” (“There is no
deity but God”), to the following air:—


bowing the head and body twice in
each repetition of “Lá iláha
illa-lláh.” Thus they continued about a quarter of an
hour; and
then, for about the same space of time, they repeated the
same
words to the same air, but in a quicker measure, and with
correspondingly
quicker motions. In the meantime, the munshids
frequently
sang, to the same, or a variation of the same, air,
portions
of a kaseedeh, or of a muweshshah; an ode of a similar nature
to the Song of Solomon, generally alluding to the Prophet as the
object of
love and praise.
I shall here give a translation of one of these muweshshahs,
which are very
numerous, as a specimen of their style, from a book
containing a number of
these poems, which I have purchased
during the present Moolid, from a
darweesh who presides at
many zikrs. He pointed out the following poem as
one of those
most common at zikrs, and as one which was sung at the
zikr
which I have begun to describe. I translate it verse for verse,
and
imitate the measure and system of rhyme of the original, with this
difference only, that the first, third, and fifth lines of each stanza
rhyme with each other in the original, but not in my translation.
“With love my heart is troubled;
And mine eye-lid hind'reth sleep:
My vitals are dissever'd;
While with streaming tears I weep.
My union seems far distant:
Will my love e'er meet mine eye?
Alas! Did not estrangement
Draw my tears, I would not sigh.
“By dreary nights I'm wasted:
Absence makes my hope expire:
My tears, like pearls, are dropping;
And my heart is wrapt in fire.
Whose is like my condition?
Scarcely know I remedy.
Alas! Did not estrangement
Draw my tears, I would not sigh.
“O turtle-dove! acquaint me
Wherefore thus dost thou lament?
Art thou so stung by absence?
Of thy wings depriv'd, and pent?
He saith, ‘Our griefs are equal:
Worn away with love, I lie.'
Alas! Did not estrangement
Draw my tears, I would not sigh.
“O First, and sole Eternal!
Show Thy favour yet to me.

Thy slave, Ahmad El-Bekree,
1
1 The author of the poem. The singer
sometimes puts his own name in the
place of this.
Hath no Lord excepting Thee,
By Tá-Há,
2 the Great Prophet!
2
“Tá-Há” (as I have
mentioned on a former occasion) is a name of the
Arabian
Prophet.
Do thou not his wish deny.
Alas! Did not estrangement
Draw my tears, I would not sigh.”
I must translate a few more lines, to show more strongly the
similarity of
these songs to that of Solomon; and lest it should be
thought that I have
varied the expressions, I shall not attempt to
render them into verse. In
the same collection of poems sung at
zikrs is one which begins with these lines:—
“O gazelle from among the gazelles of
El-Yemen!
I am thy slave without cost:
O thou small of age, and fresh of skin!
O thou who art scarce past the time of drinking
milk!”
In the first of these verses we have a comparison exactly agreeing
with that
in the concluding verse of Solomon's Song; for the
word which, in our
Bible, is translated a “roe,” is used in Arabic
as
synonymous with “ghazál” (or a gazelle); and
the mountains
of El-Yemen are “the mountains of
spices.”—This poem ends
with the following lines:—
“The phantom of thy form visited me in my
slumber:
I said, ‘O phantom of slumber! who sent
thee?'
He said, ‘He sent me whom thou knowest;
He whose love occupies thee.'
The beloved of my heart visited me in the darkness of
night:
I stood, to show him honour, until he sat down.
I said, ‘O thou my petition, and all my
desire!
Hast thou come at midnight, and not feared the
watchmen?'
He said to me, ‘I feared; but, however,
love
Had taken from me my soul and my
breath.'”
Compare the above with the second and five following verses of
the fifth
chapter of Solomon's Song.—Finding that songs of this
description are extremely numerous, and almost the only poems
sung at
zikrs; that they are composed for this purpose, and intended
only to have a
spiritual sense (though certainly not understood
in such a sense by the
generality of the vulgar);
3 I cannot
3 As a proof of this, I may mention, that, since
the above was written, I
have found the last six of the lines here
translated, with some slight alterations,
inserted as a common
love-song in a portion of ‘The Thousand and One
Nights,” printed at Calcutta (vol. i., page 425).

entertain any doubt as to the
design of Solomon's Song. The
specimens which I have just given of the
religious love-songs of
the Muslims have not been selected in preference to
others as
most agreeing with that of Solomon; but as being in frequent
use;
and the former of the two as having been sung at the zikr which
I
have begun to describe. I must now resume the description of
that zikr.
At frequent intervals (as is customary in other zikrs), one of
the munshids
sang out the word “Meded;” accenting each
syllable.
“Meded” signifies, when thus used, spiritual or
super-natural
aid, and implies an invocation for such aid.
The zikkeers, after having performed as above described, next
repeated the
same words to a different air, for about the same
length of time; first
very slowly, then quickly. The air was as
follows:—

Then they repeated these words
again, to the following air, in
the same manner:—


They next rose, and, standing in the same order in which they
had been
sitting, repeated the same words to another air. During
this stage of their
performance, they were joined by a tall, well-dressed,
black slave, whose
appearance induced me to inquire who
he was: I was informed that he was a
eunuch, belonging to the
Básha. The zikkeers, still standing,
next repeated the same words
in a very deep and hoarse tone; laying the
principal emphasis
upon the word “Lá” and
the first syllable of the last word
(“Allah”); and
uttering, apparently, with a considerable effort:
the sound much resembled
that which is produced by beating
the rim of a tambourine. Each zikkeer
turned his head alternately
to the right and left at each repetition of
“Lá iláha illalláh.”
The eunuch above mentioned, during this part of the zikr,
became what is
termed “melboos,” or possessed. Throwing his
arms
about, and looking up, with a very wild expression of countenance,
he
exclaimed, in a very high tone, and with great vehemence
and rapidity,
“Allah! Allah! Allah! Allah! Allah!
lá lá
lá lá lá lá lá
lá lá lá lá lá
láh! Yá' ammee!
1 Yá 'ammee!
Yá 'amme
'Ashmáwee! Yá 'Ashmáwee! Yá
'Ashmáwee! Yá
'Ashmáwee!” His
voice gradually became faint; and when he
had uttered these words, though
he was held by a darweesh
who was next him, he fell on the ground, foaming
at the mouth,
his eyes closed, his limbs convulsed, and his fingers
clenched
over his thumbs. It was an epileptic fit: no one could see it
and believe it to be the effect of feigned emotions: it was
undoubtedly the
result of a high state of religious excitement.
Nobody seemed surprised at
it; for occurrences of this kind at
zikrs are not uncommon. All the
performers now appeared
much excited; repeating their ejaculations with
greater rapidity,
violently turning their heads, and sinking the whole body
at the
same time: some of them jumping. The eunuch became melboos
again, several times; and I generally remarked that his
fits happened after
one of the munshids had sung a line or two,
and exerted himself more than
usually to excite his hearers: the
singing was, indeed, to my taste, very
pleasing. Towards the
close of the zikr, a private soldier, who had joined
throughout the
whole performance, also seemed, several times, to be
melboos;
growling in a horrible manner, and violently shaking his head
from
side to side. The contrast presented by the vehement and
distressing
exertions of the performers at the close of the zikr, and
their calm gravity and solemnity of manner at the commencement,
1 “Yá 'ammee!”
signifies “O my uncle!”

was particularly striking. Money
was collected during the performance
for the munshids.
1 The zikkeers
receive no pay.
1 Few of the spectators, or hearers, gave more
than ten faddahs; and those
of the poorer classes gave nothing, and
indeed were not solicited.
An ishárah passed during the meglis of the zikr above described.
This zikr continues all night, until the morning-call to
prayer: the
performers only resting between each meglis; generally
taking coffee, and
some of them smoking.
It was midnight before I turned from this place to the Birket
El-Ezbekeeyeh.
Here, the moonlight and the lamps together
produced a singular effect:
several of the lamps of the káïm, of
the
sáree, and of the tents, had, however, become extinguished;
and
many persons were lying asleep upon the bare ground, taking
their night's
rest. The zikr of the darweeshes round the sáree
had terminated:
I shall therefore describe this hereafter from my
observation of it on the
next night. After having witnessed
several zikrs in the tents, I returned
to my house to sleep.
On the following day (that immediately preceding what is
properly called the
night of the Moolid), I went again to the
Ezbekeeyeh, about an hour before
noon; but there were not many
persons collected there at that time; nor was
there much to
amuse them: I saw only two or three conjurers and buffoons
and
shá'ers; each of whom had collected a small ring of
spectators
and hearers. The concourse, however, gradually increased;
for
a very remarkable spectacle was to be witnessed: a sight which
every year, on this day, attracts a multitude of wondering beholders.
This
is called the “Dóseh,” or Treading. I shall
now
describe it.
The sheykh of the Saadeeyeh darweeshes (the seyyid Mohammad
El-Menzeláwee), who is khateeb (or preacher) of the mosque
of
the Hasaneyn, after having, as they say, passed a part of the
last night in
solitude, repeating certain prayers and secret invocations,
and passages
from the Kur-án, repaired this day (being
Friday) to the mosque
above mentioned, to perform his accustomed
duty. The noon-prayers and
preaching being concluded,
he rode thence to the house of the Sheykh
El-Bekree, who presides
over all the orders of darweeshes in Egypt. This
house is
on the southern side of the Birket El-Ezbekeeyeh, next to
that
which stands at the south-western angle. On his way from the
mosque, he was joined by numerous parties of Saadee darweeshes
from
different districts of the metropolis; the members from each
district
having a pair of flags. The sheykh is an old, grey-bearded

man, of an intelligent and amiable
countenance, and fair complexion.
He wore, this day, a white benish, and a
white ká-ook
(or padded cap, covered with cloth), having a
turban composed
of muslin of a very deep olive-colour, scarcely to be
distinguished
from black, with a strip of white muslin bound obliquely
across
the front. The horse upon which he rode was one of moderate
height and weight; my reason for mentioning this will presently
be seen.
The sheykh entered the Birket El-Ezbekeeyeh preceded
by a very numerous
procession of the darweeshes of whom he is
the chief. In the way through
this place, the procession stopped
at a short distance before the house of
the Sheykh El-Bekree.
Here, a considerable number of the darweeshes and
others (I am
sure that there were more than sixty, but I could not count
their
number
1)
laid themselves down upon the ground, side by side,
as close as possible to
each other, having their backs upwards,
their legs extended, and their arms
placed together beneath their
foreheads. They incessantly muttered the word
Allah! About
twelve or more darweeshes, most without their shoes, then
ran
over the backs of their prostrate companions; some beating
“bázes,” or little drums, of a hemispherical
form, held in the left
hand; and exclaiming Allah! and then the sheykh
approached.
His horse hesitated, for several minutes, to tread upon the
back
of the first of the prostrate men; but being pulled, and urged on
behind, he at length stepped upon him; and then, without apparent
fear,
ambled, with a high pace, over them all, led by two
persons, who ran over
the prostrate men; one sometimes treading
on the feet; and the other on the
heads. The spectators immediately
raised a long cry of
“Alláh lá lá lá
lá láh!” Not one of
the men thus trampled
upon by the horse seemed to be hurt; but
each, the moment that the animal
had passed over him, jumped
up, and followed the sheykh. Each of them
received two treads
from the horse; one from one of his forelegs, and a
second from
a hind-leg. It is said that these persons, as well as the
sheykh,
make use of certain words (that is, repeat prayers and
invocations)
on the day preceding this performance, to enable them to
endure, without injury, the tread of the horse; and that some not
thus
prepared, having ventured to lie down to be ridden over, have,
on more than
one occasion, been either killed or severely injured.
The performance is
considered as a miracle effected through
1 I believe there were double this number; for I
think I may safely say that
I saw as many as double on a subsequent
occasion, at the festival of the Mearág,
which will
hereafter be described.

supernatural power which has been
granted to every successive
sheykh of the Saadeeyeh.
1 Some persons assert that the horse
is
unshod for the occasion, but I thought I could perceive that this
was not the case. They say, also, that the animal is trained for
the
purpose; but if so, this would only account for the least surprising
of the
circumstances; I mean, for the fact of the horse
being made to tread on
human beings; an act from which, it is
well known, that animal is very
averse. The present sheykh of the
Saadeeyeh refused, for several years, to
perform the Dóseh. By
much entreaty, he was prevailed upon to
empower another person
to do it. This person, a blind man, did it
successfully; but soon
after died; and the sheykh of the Saadeeyeh then
yielded to the
request of his darweeshes; and has since always performed
the
Dóseh himself.
1 It is said that the second sheykh of the
Saadeeyeh (the immediate successor
of the founder of the order) rode
over heaps of glass bottles, without breaking
any of them!
After the sheykh had accomplished this extraordinary performance,
without
the slightest appearance of any untoward accident,
he rode into the garden,
and entered the house of the Sheykh
El-Bekree, accompanied by only a few
darweeshes. On my presenting
myself at the door, a servant admitted me; and
I joined
the assembly within. The sheykh, having dismounted, seated
himself on a seggádeh spread upon the pavement against the
endwall
of a takhtabósh (or wide recess) of the court of the
house. He
sat with bended back, and downcast countenance, and tears in
his eyes; muttering almost incessantly. I stood almost close to
him. Eight
other persons sat with him. The darweeshes who
had entered with him, who
were about twenty in number, stood
in the form of a semicircle before him,
upon some matting placed
for them; and around them were about fifty or
sixty other persons.
Six darweeshes, advancing towards him, about two
yards, from the
semicircle, commenced a zikr; each of them exclaiming at
the
same time, “Alláhu heí!”
(“God is living!”) and, at each exclamation,
beating,
with a kind of small and short leather strap, a
“báz,' which he held, by a boss at the bottom, in his left
hand.
This they did for only a few minutes. A black slave then became
melboos; and rushed into the midst of the darweeshes, throwing
his arms
about, and exclaiming, “Alláh lá lá
lá lá láh!” A person
held him,
and he soon seemed to recover. The darweeshes,
altogether, standing as
first described, in the form of a semicircle,
then performed a second zikr;
each alternate zikkeer exclaiming,
“Alláhu
heí!” (“God is living!”) and the
others “Yá heí” (“O

thou living!”) and all
of them bowing at each exclamation,
alternately to the right and left. This
they continued for about
ten minutes. Then, for about the same space of
time, in the
same manner, and with the same motions, they exclaimed,
“Dáïm!”
(“Everlasting!”) and, “Yá
Dáïm!” (“O
Everlasting!”).
I felt an irresistible impulse to try if I could
do the
same without being noticed as an intruder, and accordingly
joined
the semicircle, and united in the performance, in which I
succeeded
well enough not to attract observation; but I worked
myself
into a most uncomfortable heat.—After the zikr just described,
a
person began to chant a portion of the Kur-án; but the
zikr was
soon resumed, and continued for about a quarter of an
hour. Most of the
darweeshes there present then kissed the
hand of the sheykh, and he retired
to an upper apartment.
It used to be a custom of some of the Saadeeyeh, on this
occasion, after the
Dóseh, to perform their celebrated feat of
eating live serpents,
before a select assembly, in the house of the
Sheykh El-Bekree; but their
present sheykh has lately put a stop
to this practice in the metropolis,
justly declaring it to be disgusting,
and contrary to the religion, which
includes serpents
among the creatures that are unfit to be eaten. Serpents
and
scorpions were not unfrequently eaten by Saadees during my
former
visit to this country. The former were deprived of their
poisonous teeth,
or rendered harmless by having their upper and
lower lips bored, and tied
together on each side with a silk string,
to prevent their biting; and
sometimes those which were merely
carried in processions had two silver
rings put in place of the
silk strings. Whenever a Saadee ate the flesh of
a live serpent,
he was, or affected to be, excited to do so by a kind of
frenzy.
He pressed very hard with the end of his thumb upon the
reptile's
back, as he grasped it, at a point about two inches from the
head, and all that he ate of it was the head and a part between it
and the
point where his thumb pressed, of which he made three
or four mouthfuls,
the rest he threw away.—Serpents, however,
are not always
handled with impunity even by Saadees. A few
years ago, a darweesh of this
sect, who was called “el-Feel” (or
the Elephant),
from his bulky and muscular form, and great
strength, and who was the most
famous serpent-eater of his time,
and almost of any age, having a desire to
rear a serpent of a very
venomous kind which his boy had brought him among
others that
he had collected in the desert, put this reptile into a basket,
and
kept it for several days without food, to weaken it; he then put

his hand into the basket to take it
out, for the purpose of extracting
its teeth; but it immediately bit his
thumb: he called out for
help. There were, however, none but women in the
house, and
they feared to come to him, so that many minutes elapsed
before
he could obtain assistance. His whole arm was then found to be
swollen and black, and he died after a few hours.
No other ceremonies worthy of notice were performed on the
day of the
Dóseh. The absence of the Ghawázee rendered the
festival less merry than it used to be.
In the ensuing night, that which is properly called the night of
the Moolid,
I went again to the principal scene of the festival.
Here I witnessed a
zikr performed by a ring of about sixty darweeshes
round the
sáree. The moon was sufficient, without the
lamps, to light up
the scene. The darweeshes who formed the
ring round the sáree
were of various orders; but the zikr which
they performed was of a kind
usual only among the order of the
Beiyoomeeyeh. In one act of this zikr the
performers exclaimed,
“Yá
Alláh!” (“O God!”), and, at each
exclamation, first bowed
their heads, crossing their hands at the same time
before their
breasts; then raised their heads, and clapped their hands
together
before their faces. The interior of the ring was crowded with
persons sitting on the ground. The zikkeers continued as above
described
about half an hour. Next, they formed companies of
five or six or more
together; but still in the form of a large ring.
The persons in these
several companies held together, each (with
the exception of the foremost
in the group) placing his left arm
behind the back of the one on his left
side, and the hand upon
the left shoulder of the latter: all facing the
spectators outside the
ring. The exclaimed
“Alláh!” in an excessively deep and
hoarse
voice;
1 and at
each exclamation took a step, one time
forwards, and the next time
backwards; but each advancing a
little to his left at every forward step;
so that the whole ring revolved;
though very slowly. Each of the zikkeers
held out his
right hand to salute the spectators outside the ring; most of
whom,
if near enough, grasped, and sometimes kissed, each extended
hand as it came before them.—Whenever a zikr is performed
round
the sáree, those in the tents cease. I witnessed one other
zikr
this night, a repetition of that of the preceding night in the
Sook
El-Bekree. There was nothing else to attract spectators or
hearers,
excepting the reciters of romances.—The festival terminated
1 Performers of zikrs of this kind have been
called, by various travellers,
“barking, or howling,
dervishes.”

at the morning-call to prayer; and
all the zikrs, except that
in the Sook El-Bekree, ceased about three hours
after midnight.
In the course of the following day, the
káïm, sáree, tents, etc.,
were removed.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXV.
PERIODICAL PUBLIC FESTIVALS, ETC.—continued.
It might seem unnecessary to continue a detailed
account of the
periodical public festivals and other anniversaries
celebrated in
Egypt, were it not that many of the customs witnessed on
these
occasions are every year falling into disuse, and have never,
hitherto, been fully and correctly described. Hoping that this
apology will
be accepted, I proceed.
During a period of fifteen nights and fourteen days in the
month of
“Rabeea et-Tánee” (the fourth month), the
mosque of
the Hasaneyn is the scene of a festival called “Moolid
El-Hasaneyn,”
celebrated in honour of the birth of
El-Hoseyn,
whose head, as I have before mentioned, is said to be there
buried. This Moolid is the most famous of all those celebrated
in
Cairo,
excepting that of the Prophet. The grand day of the
Moolid El-Hasaneyn is
always a Tuesday; and the night which
is properly called that of the Moolid
is the one immediately ensuing,
which is termed that of Wednesday: this is
generally
about five or six weeks after the Moolid en-Nebee; and
concludes
the festival. This present year (I am writing at the time of
the
festival which I here describe, in the year of the Flight 1250,
A.D. 1834), the eve of the 21st of the month having been fixed
upon as the
night of the Moolid, the festival began on the eve of
the 7th. On the two
evenings preceding the eve of the 7th, the
mosque was lighted with a few
more lamps than is usual; and
this is customary in other years; but these
two nights are not
distinguished like those which follow.
On each of the fifteen great nights before mentioned, the
mosque is
illuminated with a great number of lamps, and many
wax candles; some of
which latter are five or six feet high, and
very thick. This illumination
is made, on the first night, by the
názir (or warden) of the
mosque, from the funds of the mosque:
on the second night, by the governor
of the metropolis (at present
Habeeb Efendee): on the following nights by
the sheykhs of

certain orders of darweeshes; by
some of the higher officers
of the mosque; and by wealthy individuals. On
each of these
nights, those shops at which eatables, sherbet, etc., are
sold, as
well as the coffee-shops, in the neighbourhood of the mosque,
and even many of those in other quarters, remain open until near
morning;
and the streets in the vicinity of the mosque are
thronged with persons
lounging about, or listening to musicians,
singers, and reciters of
romances. The mosque is also generally
crowded. Here we find, in one part
of the great portico, a
company of persons sitting on the floor in two
rows, facing each
other, and reading, altogether, certain chapters of the
Kur-án.
This is called a “makra.”
Sometimes there are several groups
thus employed. In another place we find
a similar group reading,
from a book called
“Deláïl el-Kheyrát,”
invocations of blessing
on the Prophet. Again, in other places, we find a
group of persons
reciting particular forms of prayer; and another, or
others,
performing a zikr, or zikrs. Winding about among these groups,
(whose devotional exercises are performed for the sake of El-Hoseyn),
or
sitting upon the matting, are those other visitors
whom piety, or
curiosity, or the love of amusement, brings to
this venerated sanctuary.
There is generally an assembly of
darweeshes or others in the saloon of the
tomb (which is covered
by the great dome, and is hence called the
“kubbeh”) reciting
forms of prayer, etc.; and the
visitors usually enter the saloon
to perform the ceremonies of reciting the
Fát'hah, and compassing
the shrine; but the most frequented part
is the great portico,
where the zikrs, and most of the other ceremonies,
are performed.
Every night during this festival, we see Ishárahs, or processions
of darweeshes, of one or more sects, passing through the streets
to the
mosque of the Hasaneyn, preceded by two or more men
with drums, and
generally with hautboys, and sometimes with
cymbals also; accompanied by
bearers of mesh'als; and usually
having one or more lanterns. They collect
their party on their
way, at their respective houses. Whenever they pass by
the tomb
of a saint, their music ceases for a short time, and they recite
the
Fát'hah, or a form of blessing on the Prophet, similar to
that
preparatory to the zikr, which I have translated in my account of
the Moolid of the Prophet. They do this without stopping.
Arriving at the
mosque, they enter; some of them with candles;
visit the shrine; and go
away; with the exception of their sheykh
and a few others, who sometimes
remain in the kubbeh, and join
in reciting prayers, etc.
One of the nights which offer most attractions is that of the
Friday (that
is, preceding the Friday) next before the night of
the Moolid. It is the
night of the sheykh El-Góharee, a person
of wealth, who
illuminates the mosque on this occasion with an
unusual profusion of
lights. On this night I went to the mosque
about two hours after sunset,
before any of the ceremonies had
commenced. The nearer I approached the
building, the more
crowded did I find the streets. In one place were
musicians:
before a large coffee-shop were two Greek dancing-boys, or
“gink,” elegant but effeminate in appearance, with flowing
hair,
performing to the accompaniment of mandolines played by two
of
their countrymen; and a crowd of admiring Turks, with a few
Egyptians
surrounding them. They performed there also the
evening before; and, I was
told, became so impudent from the
patronage they received, as to make an
open seizure of a basket
of grapes in the street.
On entering the mosque, I found it far more crowded than
usual; more so than
on the preceding nights; but the lights
were scarcely more numerous than
those sometimes seen in an
English church; and the chandeliers and lamps of
the most
common kind. A loud and confused din resounded through the
great portico; and there was nothing as yet to be seen or heard,
and indeed
little afterwards, that seemed suited to a religious
festival. A great
number of Turks, and some persons of my own
acquaintance, were among the
visitors. I first sat down to rest
with one of my friends, a bookseller,
and several of his fellow-darweeshes,
who were about to perform a zikr, at
which he was
to preside. I was treated by them with coffee; for which I
had
to pay by giving the munshids a piaster. Soon after they had
begun
their zikr, which was similar to the first which I have
described in the
account of the Moolid of the Prophet, I got up
to visit the shrine, and to
saunter about. Having paid my visit,
I returned from the saloon of the
tomb, in which was a large
assembly of darweeshes reciting prayers, sitting
in the form of a
square, as large as the saloon would admit, with the
exception of
that part which contained the shrine. On re-entering the
great
portico, I perceived a great disturbance; numbers of persons
were pressing to one point, at a little distance from me, and I
heard a man
crying out, “Nasránee! Káfir!”
(“Christian! Infidel!”).
Concluding that one of the
visitors had been discovered
to be a Christian, I expected a great uproar;
but on asking one
of the bystanders what had occurred, I was told that
these words

were only used as terms of insult
by one Muslim to another who
had given him some offence. An officer of the
mosque came
running from the kubbeh, with a staff in his hand, and
soon
restored order; but whether he expelled both, or either, of the
persons who occasioned the disturbance, I could not discover;
and I thought
it prudent, in my case, to ask no further questions.
By the entrance of the
kubbeh was a party reading, in a very loud
voice, and in concert, the
Deláïl, before mentioned. After standing
for a few
minutes to hear them, though the confusion of their
voices rendered it
impossible for me to distinguish many words that
they uttered, I returned
to the zikr which I had first attended.
Shortly after, I heard the loud sounds of the tambourines of a
party of
'Eesáweeyeh darweeshes, whose performances constituted
one of
the chief attractions of the night, from the other end of
the great
portico. I immediately rose, and went thither. My
friend the bookseller,
quitting his zikr, came after me, and imprudently
called out to me,
“Efendee! take care of your purse!”
In a minute, I
felt my trousers pulled, several times; and afterwards
I found a large hole
in them, apparently cut with some
sharp instrument, by a person in search
of my pocket: for, when
the mosque is crowded as it was on this occasion,
it generally
happens that some thieves enter even this most sacred
building.
1
I had almost despaired of getting near to the 'Eesáweeyeh,
when
my servant, whom I had taken thither to carry my shoes, called
out to the persons around me, “Do you know whom you are
pushing?” and instantly I found a way made for me. It was
then
about three hours after sunset.
1 Thefts are also sometimes committed in this
mosque on other occasions,
as a friend of mine lately
experienced.—“I went there,” said he,
“to pray;
and, as I was stooping over the brink of the
‘meydaäh,' to perform the ablution,
having placed
my shoes beside me, and was saying, ‘I purpose to
perform
the divine ordinance of the “wudoó,”'
somebody behind me said
to himself, ‘I purpose to take away
this nice pair of shoes.' On looking
round, I found an old worn-out
pair of shoes put in the place of my own,
which were
new.”
Before I describe the performances of the 'Eesáweeyeh, I
should
mention that they are a class of darweeshes of whom all,
or almost all, are
Maghrab'ees, or Arabs of Northern Africa, to
the west of Egypt. They derive
their appellation from the name
of their first sheykh, Seedee Mohammad
Ibn-'Eesa,
2 a
Maghrab'ee.
Their performances are very extraordinary; and one is
2 'Eesa is the Arabic name of Jesus, and not
uncommon among Muslims,
as they acknowledge and highly venerate the
Messiah.

particularly remarkable. I was very
anxious that they should
perform, this night, what I here allude to; and I
was not disappointed;
though I was told that they had not done it in
Cairo for several years before.
I found about twenty of these darweeshes, variously dressed,
sitting upon
the floor, close together, in the form of a ring, next
to the front-wall of
the building. Each of them, excepting two,
was beating a large
“tár” (or tambourine), rather more than a
foot in width, and differing from the common tár in being
without
the tinkling pieces of metal which are attached to the hoop of
the latter. One of the two persons mentioned as exceptions was
beating a
small tár of the common kind; and the other, a
“báz,”
or little kettle-drum. Before this
ring of darweeshes, a space
rather larger than that which they occupied was
left by the crowd
for other darweeshes of the same order; and soon after
the
former had begun to beat their tambourines, the latter, who were
six in number, commenced a strange kind of dance; sometimes
exclaiming
“Alláh!” and sometimes,
“Alláh Mowlána!”
(“God
is our Lord!”). There was no regularity in
their dancing; but
each seemed to be performing the antics of a madman;
now,
moving his body up and down; the next moment, turning round;
then, using odd gesticulations with his arms; next jumping; and
sometimes,
screaming: in short, if a stranger, observing them,
were not told that they
were performing a religious exercise, supposed
to be the involuntary effect
of enthusiastic excitement, he
would certainly think that these dancing
darweeshes were merely
striving to excel one another in playing the
buffoon; and the
manner in which they were clad would conduce to impress
him
with this idea. One of them wore a kaftán without sleeves,
and
without a girdle; and had nothing on his head, which had not
been
shaved for about a week: another had a white cotton skullcap,
but was naked
from the head to the waist; wearing nothing
on his body but a pair of loose
drawers. These two darweeshes
were the principal performers. The former of
them, a dark,
spare, middle-aged man, after having danced in his odd
manner
for a few minutes, and gradually become more wild and
extravagant
in his actions, rushed towards the ring formed by his
brethren
who were beating the társ. In the middle of this ring
was placed
a small chafing-dish of tinned copper, full of red-hot
charcoal.
From this the darweesh just mentioned seized a piece of live
charcoal, which he put into his mouth: then he did the same
with another,
another, and another, until his mouth was full;

when he deliberately chewed these
live coals, opening his mouth
very wide every moment, to show its contents,
which, after about
three minutes, he swallowed; and all this he did without
evincing
the slightest symptom of pain; appearing, during the
operation
and after it, even more lively than before. The other
darweesh,
before alluded to as half-naked, displayed a remarkably fine
and
vigorous form; and seemed to be in the prime of his age. After
having danced not much longer than the former, his actions
became so
violent that one of his brethren held him; but he
released himself from his
grasp, and, rushing towards the chafingdish,
took out one of the largest
live coals, and put it into his
mouth. He kept his mouth wide open for
about two minutes;
and during this period, each time that he inhaled, the
large coal
appeared of almost a white heat; and when he exhaled,
numerous
sparks were blown out of his mouth. After this, he chewed and
swallowed the coal; and then resumed his dancing. When their
performance
had lasted about half an hour, the darweeshes
paused to rest.
Before this pause, another party of the same sect had begun
to perform, near
the centre of the great portico. Of these I now
became a spectator. They
had arranged themselves in the same
order as the former party. The ring
composed by those who
beat the tambourines consisted of about the same
number as in
the other company; but the dancers here were about
twelve:
sometimes less. One of them, a tall man, dressed in a dark
woollen gown, and with a bare shaven head, took from the
chafing-dish,
which was handed to the dancers as though it had
been a dish of cakes or
sweetmeats, a large piece of brilliantly
hot coal; placed it between his
teeth, and kept it so for a short
time; then drew it upon his tongue; and,
keeping his mouth
wide open for, I think, more than two minutes, violently
inhaled
and exhaled, showing the inside of his mouth like a furnace,
and
breathing out sparks, as the former darweesh had done; but with
less appearance of excitement. Having chewed and swallowed
the coal, he
joined the ring of the tambourine-players; and sat
almost close to my feet.
I narrowly watched his countenance; but
could not see the least indication
of his suffering any pain. After
I had witnessed these extraordinary
performances for about an
hour, both parties of darweeshes stopped to rest;
and as there was
nothing more to see worthy of notice, I then quitted the
mosque.
1
1 The performances of Richardson, described in
Evelyn's Memoirs (pp. 375-6,
8vo edition), appear to have surpassed
those of the darweeshes here mentioned.
Sometimes, on this occasion, the 'Eesáweeyeh eat glass as well
as
fire. One of them, the hágg Mohammad Es-Seláwee, a
man
of gigantic stature, who was lamp-lighter in the mosque of the
Hasaneyn, and who died a few years ago, was one of the most
famous of the
eaters of fire and glass, and celebrated for other
performances. Often,
when he appeared to become highly excited,
he used to spring up to the long
bars, or rafters, of wood,
which extend across the arches above the columns
of the mosque,
and which are sixteen feet or more from the pavement;
and
would run along them, from one to another: then, with his
finger,
wetted in his mouth, he would strike his arm, and cause
blood to flow; and
by the same means stanch the blood.
The zikrs, during this festival, are continued all night. Many
persons pass
the night in the mosque, sleeping on the matting;
and it often happens that
thefts are committed there. On my
return to my house after witnessing the
performances of the
'Eesáweeyeh, I found no fewer than eight
lice on my clothing.
On the following night there was nothing that I observed at all
entertaining, unless it were this, that my officious friend the bookseller,
who again presided at a zikr, wishing to pass me off for a
pious Muslim (or
perhaps for the sake of doing a good work),
without having obtained my
previous permission, openly proposed
to four fikees to perform a recitation
of the Kur-án (I mean, of
the whole book, a
“khatmeh”), on my part, for the sake of
seyyidna
1-l-Hoseyn. As this is
commonly done, on the occasions
of this festival, by persons of the higher
and middle orders, it
would have excited suspicion if I had objected. It
was therefore
performed, in the afternoon and evening next following;
each
fikee reciting a portion of the book; and then another relieving
him: it occupied about nine hours. After it was finished, I was
mentioned,
by my assumed Oriental name, as the author of this
pious work. The
performers received a wax candle, some bread,
and a piaster each.
1 “Seyyidna” signifies
“our lord.”
On Monday the mats were removed, excepting a few, upon
which groups of
fikees, employed to recite the Kur-án, seated
themselves. Vast
numbers of persons resorted to the mosque
this day, both men and women;
chiefly those who were desirous
of obtaining a blessing by the visit, and
disliked the still greater
crowding and confusion of the following day, or
day of the
Moolid. In the ensuing evening, the streets in the
neighbourhood
of the mosque were densely crowded; and, a little after

sunset, it was very difficult in
some parts to pass. Numerous
lamps were hung in these streets; and many
shops were open.
This was also the night of the Moolid of the famous Sultán
“Es-Sáleh,” of the house of Eiyoob, who is
commonly believed
to have been a welee, and is said to have worn a dilk,
and to
have earned his subsistence by making baskets, etc., of
palm-leaves
(“khoos”), without drawing any money from
the public
treasury for his own private use. His tomb, which adjoins
his
mosque, is in the Nahháseen (or market of the sellers of
copper
wares), a part of the main street of the city, not far from the
mosque of the Hasaneyn. This market was illuminated with
many lamps. Most
of the shops were open; and in each of
these was a group of three or four
or more persons sitting with
the master. The mosque and tomb of
Es-Sáleh are much
neglected, and falling to decay,
notwithstanding the high veneration
which the people of
Cairo entertain for
this prince. On
my approaching the door of the tomb, I was surrounded
by
hemalees and sakkas, soliciting me to pay them to distribute the
contents of an ibreek or a kirbeh for the sake of Es-Sáleh. I
entered the building with my shoes on (seeing that others did the
same);
but took them off at the threshold of the saloon of the
tomb. This is a
square hall, surmounted by a dome. In the
centre is an oblong monument,
over the grave, surrounded by a
wooden railing. At the head of this railed
enclosure (or maksoorah)
are four large wax candles; and at the foot,
three; all of
which are encased in plaster, and resemble round-topped
stone
pillars. They are coloured with broad, horizontal, red stripes,
like the alternate courses of stone in the exterior walls of most
mosques
in
Cairo. There probably were, originally, the same
number at the foot as
there are at the head of the maksoorah;
for there is a space which seems to
have been occupied by one
at the foot. These candles, it is said, were sent
as a present, by
a Pope, or by a Frank King, to Es-Sáleh, who,
being a welee,
discovered, without inspecting them, that they were filled
with
gunpowder, and ordered them to be thus encased in plaster: or,
according to another account, they were sent as a present for the
tomb,
some years after the death of Es-Sáleh; and he appeared
to the
guardian of his tomb in a dream, and informed him of
the gunpowder-plot.
The saloon of the tomb I found scantily
lighted; and having a very ancient
and neglected appearance.
The pavement was uncovered. On my entering, two
servants
of the mosque took me to the foot of the maksoorah, and one of

them dictated to me the
Fát'hah, and the form of prayer which
I have mentioned in my
account of the ceremonies of the day
of' A'shoora; and the other responding
“A'meen!” (“Amen!”):
the former
then desired me to recite the Fát'hah, with them, a
second time,
and gave me five of the little balls of bread from
the tomb of the seyyid
El-Bedawee. They received, for this,
half a piaster. Another servant opened
the door of the maksoorah
for me to enter: an honour which required that I
should
give him also a trifling present.
From the tomb of Es-Sáleh I proceeded to the mosque of the
Hasaneyn, through streets crowded to excess (though this was
not the great
night), and generally well lighted. There was but
little difference between
the scenes which the streets and the
mosque of the Hasaneyn presented:
among the crowds in the
mosque I saw numbers of children; and some of them
were playing,
running after each other, and shouting. There were
numerous
groups of fikees reciting the Kur-án; and one small
ring of
darweeshes, in the centre of the great portico, performing a
zikr.
I forced my way with difficulty into the kubbeh, and performed
the circuit round the shrine. Here was a very numerous party
reciting the
Kur-án. After quitting the mosque, I spent about
an hour and a
half in a street, listening to a Shá'er.
On the following day, the last and chief day of the festival, the
mosque of
the Hasaneyn and its neighbourhood were much more
thronged than on the days
previous; and in every sook, and before
every wekáleh, and even
before the doors of most private
houses of the middle and higher classes of
Muslims throughout
the city, lamps were hung, to be lighted in the ensuing
night, the
night of the Moolid. The number of beggars in the streets
this
day, imploring alms for the sake of
“seyyidna-l-Hoseyn,” was
surprising: sitting for
about an hour in the afternoon at a shop
in the main street, I was quite
wearied with saying, “God help
thee!” “God
sustain thee!” etc. Almost all the inhabitants
of the metropolis
seemed to be in the streets; and almost all the
Turks residing here
appeared to be congregated in the neighbourhood
of the Hasaneyn. This was
the grand day for visiting the
shrine of El-Hoseyn: it is believed that the
Prophet is present
there all this day and the ensuing night, witnessing his
followers'
pious visits to his grandson. Yet most of the great people
prefer
going on the preceding day, or on any of the days of the
festival
but the last, on account of the excessive crowding on this day:
I,
however, went on this occasion for the very reason that deterred

them. I entered the kubbeh a little
before sunset; and was
surprised to find a way made for me to advance
easily to the
shrine. A servant of the mosque placed me before the door
of
the maksoorah; dictated to me the same recitals as on the day
of
'A'shoora; and gave me a handful of the bread of the seyyid
El-Bedawee;
consisting of fourteen of the little balls into which
it is formed. But no
sooner was this done than I was squeezed
till I was almost breathless by
applicants for presents. The man
who had dictated the prayer to me asked me
for his present (a
piaster); another said, “I have recited the
chapter of Yá-Seen
for thee, O A'gha:” a third,
“O Efendee, I am a servant of the
maksoorah:” most of
the others were common beggars. I saw
now that the Turks had good reason to
prefer another day. The
more importunate of those to whom nothing was due
followed me
through the crowd in the mosque, and into the street: for I
had
given away all that I had in my pocket, and more than was
customary. I was invited to seat myself on the mastab'ah of a
shop opposite
the mosque, to deliver myself from their jostling.
In the mosque I saw
nothing to remark but crowding and confusion,
and swarms of beggars; men,
women, and children. In
the evening the mosque was still crowded to excess;
and no
ceremonies were performed there but visiting the shrine,
recitations
of the Kur-án, and two or three zikrs. The streets
were
then more crowded than ever, till long after midnight; and the
illuminations gave them a very gay appearance. The Góhargeeyeh
(or jewellers' bázár) was illuminated with a great
profusion of
chandeliers, and curtained over. The mád'nehs of
the larger
mosques were also illuminated. Many shops were open besides
those at which eatables, coffee, and sherbet were sold; and in some
of them
were seated fikees (two or more together) reciting khatmehs
(or the whole
of the Kur-án). There were Shá'ers, Mohaddits,
Musicians, and Singers, in various places, as on the former
nights.
In about the middle of “Regeb”
1 (the seventh month) is celebrated
the Moolid of the “seyyideh Zeyneb,” the daughter of
the
Imám 'Alee, and grand-daughter of the Prophet; always on
the
eve of a Wednesday. The festival generally commences two
weeks
before: the principal day is the last, or Tuesday. The
scene of the
festivities is the neighbourhood of the mosque in
which the seyyideh is
commonly believed to be buried; a gaudily
1 About this time, the Turkish pilgrims, on
their way to Mekkeh, begin to
arrive in Egypt.

ornamented, but not very handsome
building, in the south-western
quarter of the metropolis.
1 The supposed tomb,
over which is an
oblong monument, covered with embroidered silk, and
surrounded
by a bronze screen, with a wooden canopy, similar to those of
El-Hoseyn,
is in a small but lofty apartment of the mosque, crowned
by
a dome. Into this apartment, on the occasion of the Moolid,
visitors are
admitted to pray and perform their circuits round the
monument. I have just
been to visit it, on the last or great day
of the festival. In a street
near the mosque I saw several Reciters
of Aboo-Zeyd, Háwees,
Kureydátees, and Dancers, and a
few swings and whirligigs. In
the mosque, the prayer usual on such
occasions, after the
Fát'hah, was dictated to me; and I received
two of the little
balls of the bread of the seyyid El-Bedawee.
The door of the sacred
enclosure was open; but I had been told
that only women were allowed to
enter, it being regarded in the
same light as a hareem: so I contented
myself with making the
circuit; which, owing to the crowding of the
visitors, and there
being but a very narrow space between three sides of
the bronze
enclosure and the walls of the apartment, was rather difficult
to
accomplish. A respectable-looking woman, in a state which rendered
it rather dangerous for her to be present in such a crowded
place, cried
out to me to make room for her with a coarseness of
language common to Arab
females. Many persons there begged
me to employ them to recite a chapter of
the Kur-án for the seyyideh,
urging the proposal with the prayer
of “God give thee thy
desire!” for the visitors to
the tombs or cenotaphs of saints
generally have some special petition of
offer. There was a group
of blind paupers sitting on the floor, and
soliciting alms. The
mats were removed throughout the mosque, and only idle
loungers
were to be seen there. On going out, I was importuned by a
number of hemalees and sakkas to give them money to distribute
water for
the sake of “the daughter of Imám.” It is
customary
to give a few faddahs to one or more servants of the
maksoorah;
and to a fikee, to recite a chapter; and also to the beggars in
the
mosque; and to one of the hemalees or sakkas. The chief ceremonies
performed in the mosque in the evenings were zikrs.
Each evening of the
festival, darweeshes of one or more orders
repaired thither.
1 This mosque was commenced shortly before the
invasion of Egypt by the
French, and completed soon after they had
quitted the country.
The night or eve of the twenty-seventh of Regeb is the anniversary
of the
“Leylet el-Mearág,” or the night of the
Prophet's

miraculous ascension to heaven; in
commemoration of which a
festival is celebrated in a part of the northern
suburb of
Cairo,
outside the gate called Báb El-'Adawee. For
three days before,
the Sheykh El-Bekree entertains numerous persons in a
house
belonging to him in this quarter; and zikrs are performed there
in his house. In addition to the amusement afforded in the
streets by
Háwees, Reciters of Aboo-Zeyd, etc., as on similar
festivals,
the public witness on this occasion that extraordinary
performance called
the “Dóseh,” which I have described in my
account of the Moolid en-Nebee. This is performed in a short,
but rather
wide street of the suburb above mentioned, in front of
the mosque of a
saint called Et-Tashtooshee, on the twenty-sixth
day of the month, which is
the last and chief day of the festival.
I have just been one of its
spectators. The day being Friday,
the Sheykh of the Saadeeyeh (the only
person who is believed to
be able to perform this reputed miracle) had to
fulfil his usual
duty of praying and preaching in the mosque of the
Hasaneyn, at
noon. From that mosque he rode in procession to the scene
of
the Dóseh, preceded by a long train of his darweeshes, with
their
banners, and some with the little drums which they often use. I
was at this spot a little after midday, and took my place on a
mastab'ah
which extends along the foot of the front of the mosque
of Et-Tashtooshee.
While sitting here, and amusing myself with observing the
crowds attracted
by the same curiosity that brought me hither, a
reputed saint, who, a few
days ago, begged of me a few piasters to
feed some fakeers on this
occasion, passed by, and, seeing me,
came and sat down by my side. To pass
away the time during
which we had to wait before the Dóseh, he
related to me a tale
connected with the cause of the festivities of this
day. A certain
Sultán,
1 he said, had openly ridiculed the story of the
Mearág;
asserting it to be impossible that the Prophet could
have got out
of his bed by night, have been carried from Mekkeh to
Jerusalem
by the beast Burák, have ascended thence with the
angel to the
Seventh Heaven, and returned to Jerusalem and Mekkeh, and
found his bed still warm. He was playing at chess one day
with his Wezeer,
when the saint Et-Tashtooshee came in to
him, and asked to be allowed to
play with him; making this
condition, that the Sultán, if
overcome, should do what the saint
should order. The proposal was accepted.
The Sultán lost the
1 This tale applies to the Khaleefeh
El-Hákim. I have heard it related
with some trifling
differences.

game; and was ordered by the saint
to plunge in a tank of water.
He did so; and found himself in a magnificent
palace, and converted
into a woman of great beauty, with long hair, and
every
female attraction. He, or now
she, was married
to the son of a
king; gave birth to three children successively, and then
returned
to the tank, and, emerging from it, informed the Wezeer of
what
had happened to him. The saint reminding him, now, of his
incredulity
on the subject of the Mearág, he declared his belief
in
the miracle, and became an orthodox Muslim. Hence, the festival
of
the Mearág is always celebrated in the neighbourhood of
the
mosque in which Et-Tashtooshee is buried; and his Moolid is
celebrated at
the same time.
Not long after the above tale was finished, an hour and a quarter
after
mid-day, the procession of the Sheykh es-Saadeeyeh
arrived. The foremost
persons, chiefly his own darweeshes,
apparently considerably more than a
hundred (but I found it impossible
to count them), were laid down in the
street, as close as
possible together, in the same manner as at the Moolid
en-Nebee.
They incessantly repeated the word
“Alláh!” A number of
darweeshes, most with
their shoes off, ran over them; several
beating their little drums; some
carrying the black flags of the
order of the Rifá'ees (the
parent order of the Saadees); and two
carrying a
“sháleesh” (a pole about twenty feet in length,
like a
large flag-staff, the chief banner of the Saadeeyeh, with a
large
conical ornament of brass on the top): then came the sheykh,
on
the same grey horse that he rode at the Moolid en-Nebee: he
was dressed in
a light-blue pelisse, lined with ermine, and wore a
black, or almost black,
mukleh; which is a large, formal turban,
peculiar to persons of religious
and learned professions. He rode
over the prostrate men, mumbling all the
while. Two persons
led his horse; and they, also, trod upon the prostrate
men;
sometimes on the legs, and on the heads. Once the horse
pranced
and curveted, and nearly trod upon several heads: he
passed over the men
with a high and hard pace. The sheykh
entered the house of the Sheykh
El-Bekree, before mentioned,
adjoining the mosque. None of the men who were
ridden over
appeared to be hurt, and many got up laughing: but one
appeared
to be “melboos,” or overcome by excitement;
and, though he did
not put his hand to his back, as if injured by the tread
of the
horse, seemed near fainting; and tears rolled down his face. It
is possible, however, that this man was hurt by the horse, and that
he
endeavoured to conceal the cause.
After the Dóseh, my friend the saint insisted on my coming to
his
house, which was near by, with three fikees. He conducted
us to a small
upper room, furnished with an old carpet and
cushions. Here the three
fikees sat down with me, and recited
the Fát'hah together, in a
very loud voice. Then one of them
chanted about half of the second chapter
of the Kur-án, very
musically: another finished it. Our host
afterwards brought a
stool, and placed upon it a tray with three large
dishes of “'eysh
bilahm.” This is minced meat, fried
with butter, and seasoned
with some taheeneh (or sesame from which oil has
been pressed),
vinegar, and chopped onions; then put upon cakes of
leavened
dough, and baked. To this meal I sat down, with the three
fikees, our host waiting upon us. A fourth fikee came in, and
joined us at
dinner. After we had eaten, the fikees recited the
Fát'hah for
the host, and then for myself, and went away. I
soon after followed their
example.
On the Leylet el-Mearág, between two and three hours after
sunset, the Sheykh El-Bekree returns in procession, preceded by
numerous
persons bearing mesh'als, and by a number of darweeshes,
to his house in
the Ezbekeeyeh. During this night, the
mád'nehs of the larger
mosques are illuminated.
On the first or second Wednesday in “Shaabán”
(the eighth
month), generally on the former day, unless that be the first
or
second day of the month, the celebration of the Moolid of the
“Imám Esh-Sháfe'ee” commences. It
ends on the eve of the
Thursday in the next week. The great cemetery called
the Karáfeh,
in the desert tract on the south of the metropolis,
where the
Imám is buried, and the southern part of the town, are
the scenes
of the festivities. As this Imám was the founder of
the sect to
which most of the people of
Cairo belong, his Moolid
attracts
many visitors. The festivities are similar to those of other
great
Moolids. On the Saturday before the last or chief day, the
ceremony of the Dóseh is performed. On the last day, Wednesday,
the visitors are most numerous; and during the ensuing night,
zikrs, etc.,
are performed in the sepulchral mosque of the Imám.
Above the
dome of this mosque, upon its point, is fixed a metal
boat, in which there
used to be placed, on the occasion of the
Moolid, an ardebb (or about five
bushels) of wheat, and a camel-load
of water for the birds. The boat is
said to turn sometimes
when there is no wind to move it, and, according to
the position
which it takes, to foretoken various events, good and evil;
such
as plenty or scarcity, the death of some great man, etc.
Several other Moolids follow that of the Imám; but those
already
described are the most famous; and the ceremonies of all
are nearly the
same.
The “Night of the Middle of Shaabán,” or
“Leylet en-Nusf
min Shaabán,” which is the
night of the fifteenth (that is
preceding
the fifteenth day) of that month, is held in great reverence by the
Muslims, as the period when the fate of every living man is confirmed
for
the ensuing year. The Sidr (or lote-tree) of Paradise,
which is more
commonly called Shegeret el-Muntah'a (or the
Tree of the Extremity),
probably for several reasons, but chiefly
(as is generally supposed)
because it is said to be at the extremity,
1
or on the most elevated spot, in Paradise, is believed to have as
many leaves as there are living human beings in the world; and the
leaves
are said to be inscribed with the names of all those beings;
each leaf
bearing the name of one person, and those of his father
and mother. The
tree, we are taught, is shaken on the night
above mentioned, a little after
sunset; and when a person is
destined to die in the ensuing year, his leaf,
upon which his
name is written, falls on this occasion: if he be to die
very soon,
his leaf is almost wholly withered, a very small portion only
remaining
green: if he be to die later in the year, a larger portion
remains green: according to the time he has yet to live, so is the
proportion of the part of the leaf yet green. This, therefore, is a
very
awful night to the serious and considerate Muslims; who,
accordingly,
observe it with solemnity and earnest prayer. A
particular form of prayer
is used on the occasion, immediately
after the ordinary evening-prayers
which are said soon after sunset.
Those who are able recite it without
being prompted to do
so; and generally in a mosque: others assemble in the
mosques
for this purpose, and hire a fikee to assist them; and many
fikees,
therefore, resort to the mosques to perform this office. Each
fikee officiates for a group of persons. He first recites the
“Soorat Yá-Seen (or 36th chapter of the
Kur-án); and then,
raising his hands before his face, as in the
ordinary supplications,
and the other worshippers doing the same, he
recites the “do'a”
(or prayer); repeating one, two,
three, or more words, which the
others then repeat after him. The prayer is
as follows.—“O
God! O Thou Gracious! and who art not
an object of grace!
O Thou Lord of Dignity and Honour, and of Beneficence
and
1 In the Commentary of the Geláleyn,
“Sidrat el-Muntah'a,” or the Lote-tree
of the
Extremity (Kur-án, chap. liii., verse 14), is interpreted as
signifying
“The Lote-tree beyond which neither angels nor
others can pass.”

Favour! There is no deity but Thou,
the Support of those who
seek to Thee for refuge, and the Helper of those
who have recourse
to Thee for help, and the Trust of those who fear! O
God, if Thou have recorded me in Thy abode, upon the ‘Original
of the Book,'
1
miserable, or unfortunate, or scanted in my sustenance,
cancel, O God, of
Thy goodness, my misery, and misfortune,
and scanty allowance of
sustenance, and confirm me in thy
abode, upon the Original of the Book, as
happy, and provided
for, and directed to good: for Thou hast said (and Thy
saying is
true) in Thy Book revealed by the tongue of Thy commissioned
Prophet, ‘God will cancel what He pleaseth, and confirm; and
with Him is the Original of the Book.'
2 O my God! by the very
great revelation [which
is made] on the night of the middle of
the month of Shaabán the
honoured, ‘in which every determined
decree is dispensed'
3 and confirmed,
remove from me whatever
affliction I know, and what I know not, and what
Thou best
knowest; for Thou art the most Mighty, the most Bountiful.
And favour, O God, our lord Mohammed, the Illiterate
4 Prophet,
and his Family and
Companions, and preserve them.”—After
having repeated
this prayer, the worshippers offer up any private
supplication.
1 The Preserved Tablet, on which are said to be
written the original of the
Kur-án, and all God's decrees,
is here commonly understood; but I am informed
that the
“Original” (or, literally, the
“Mother”) “of the Book” is
God's
knowledge or prescience.
2 Kur-án, chap. xiii., verse 39.
3 Kur-án, chap. xliv., verse
3.—By some persons these words are supposed
to apply to the
Night of el-Kadr, which will hereafter be mentioned.
4 Mohammad gloried in his illiteracy, as a proof
of his being inspired: it
had the same effect upon his followers as the
words of our Saviour had upon
the Jews, who remarked, “How
knoweth this man letters, having never
learned?”—John vii. 15.
The night on which “Ramadán” (the month of
abstinence,
the ninth month of the year) is expected to commence is
called
“Leylet er-Roo-yeh,” or the Night of the
Observation [of the new
moon]. In the afternoon, or earlier, during the
preceding day,
several persons are sent a few miles into the desert, where
the air
is particularly clear, in order to obtain a sight of the new
moon:
for the fast commences on the next day after the new moon has
been seen, or, if the moon cannot be seen in consequence of a
cloudy sky,
at the expiration of thirty days from the commencement
of the preceding
month. The evidence of one Muslim,
that he has seen the new moon, is
sufficient for the proclaiming
of the fast. In the evening of the day above
mentioned, the

Mohtes'ib, the sheykhs of several
trades (millers, bakers, slaughtermen,
sellers of meat, oil-men, and
fruiterers), with several other
members of each of these trades, parties of
musicians, and a
number of fakeers, headed and interrupted by companies
of
soldiers, go in procession from the Citadel to the Court of the
Kádee, and there await the return of one of the persons who have
been sent to make the observation, or the testimony of any other
Muslim who
has seen the new moon. The streets through which
they pass are lined with
spectators. There used to be, in this
procession, several led horses,
handsomely caparisoned; but of
late, military display, of a poor order,
has, for the most part,
taken the place of civil and religious pomp. The
procession of
the night of the Roo-yeh is now chiefly composed of
Nizám
infantry. Each company of soldiers is preceded and
followed by
bearers of mesh'als, to light them on their return; and
followed
by the sheykh, and a few other members, of some trade, with
several fakeers, shouting, as they pass along, “O! Blessing!
Blessing! Bless ye the Prophet! On him be peace!” After
every
two or three companies, there is generally an interval of
many minutes. The
Mohtes'ib and his attendants close the procession.
When information that
the moon has been seen has
arrived at the Kádee's court, the
soldiers and other assembled
there divide themselves into several
companies, one of which
returns to the Citadel; the others perambulate
different quarters
of the town, shouting, “O followers of the
best of the Creation!
1
Fasting! Fasting!”—When the moon has not been seen
on this
night, the people are informed by the cry of “To-morrow
is of
the month of Shaabán! No fasting! No
fasting!”—The people
generally pass a great part of
this night (when the fast has been
proclaimed as commencing on the morrow)
in eating and drinking
and smoking; and seem as merry as they usually do
when
released from the misery of the day's fast. The mosques, as on
the following nights, are illuminated within; and lamps are hung
at their
entrances, and upon the galleries of the mád'nehs.
1 “The best of the
Creation” is an appellation of the Prophet.
In Ramadán, instead of seeing, as at other times, many of the
passengers in the streets with the pipe in the hand, we now see
them
empty-handed, until near sunset, or carrying a stick or cane,
or a string
of beads; but some of the Christians now are not
afraid, as they used to
be, of smoking in their shops in the sight
of the fasting Muslims. The
streets, in the morning, have a dull
appearance, many of the shops being
shut; but in the afternoon,

they are as much crowded as usual,
and all the shops are open.
The Muslims during the day-time, while fasting,
are, generally
speaking, very morose: in the night, after breakfast, they
are
unusually affable and cheerful. It is the general fashion of the
principal Turks in
Cairo, and a custom of many others, to repair
to the
mosque of the Hasaneyn in the afternoon during Ramadán,
to pray
and lounge; and on these occasions a number of Turkish
tradesmen (called
Tohafgeeyeh) expose for sale, in the court of
the meydaäh (or
tank for ablution), a variety of articles of taste
and luxury suited to the
wants of their countrymen. It is common,
in this month, to see tradesmen in
their shops reciting the
Kur-án or prayers, or distributing
bread to the poor. Towards
evening, and for some time after sunset, the
beggars are more
than usually importunate and clamorous; and at these times
the
coffee-shops are much frequented by persons of the lower orders;
many of whom prefer to break their fast with a cup of coffee and
a pipe.
There are few among the poor who do not keep the
fast; but many persons of
the higher and middle classes break it
in secret.
In general, during Ramadán, in the houses of persons of the
higher and middle classes, the stool of the supper-tray is placed,
in the
apartment in which the master of the house receives his
visitors, a few
minutes before sunset. A japanned tray is put
upon it; and on this are
placed several dishes, or large saucers,
containing different kinds of dry
fruits (which are called “nukl”);
such as hazel-nuts
(generally toasted), raisins, shelled walnuts,
dried dates, dried figs,
shelled almonds, sugared nuts, etc., and
kahk, or sweet cakes. With these
are also placed several kullehs
(or glass cups) of sherbet of sugar and
water; usually one or two
cups more than there are persons in the house to
partake of the
beverage, in case of visitors coming unexpectedly; and often
a
little fresh cheese and a cake of bread are added. The pipes are
also made ready; and it is usual to provide, in houses where
numerous
visitors are likely to call, several common reed pipes.
Immediately after
the call to evening prayer, which is chanted
four minutes after sunset, the
master and such of his family or
friends as happen to be with him drink
each a glass of sherbet:
they then usually say the evening-prayers; and,
this done, eat a
few nuts, etc., and smoke their pipes. After this slight
refreshment,
they sit down to a plentiful meal of meat and other food,
which they term their breakfast (“fatoor”). Having
finished this
meal, they say the night-prayers, and certain additional
prayers of

Ramadán, called
“et-taráweeh;” or smoke again before they
pray. The taráweeh prayers consist of twenty rek'ahs; and are
repeated between the 'eshë prayers and the witr. Very few
persons say these prayers, excepting in the mosque, where they
have an
Imám to take the lead; and they do little more than
conform with
his motions. The smaller mosques are closed, in
Ramadán, soon
after the taráweeh prayers: the larger remain
open until the
period of the last meal (which is called the
“sahoor”), or until the
“imsák,” which is the period when the
fast
must be recommenced. They are illuminated within and at
their entrances, as
long as they remain open; and the mád'nehs
are illuminated
during the whole of the night. The time during
which the Muslim is allowed
to eat (commencing, as already
stated, at sunset) varies from 11 hours 55
minutes to 7 hours 46
minutes (in the latitude of
Cairo), according as the
night is long
or short: the imsák being always twenty minutes
before the
period of the prayer of daybreak. Consequently, the time
during
which he keeps fast every day is from 12 hours 5 minutes to 16
hours 14 minutes.
The Muslims, during Ramadán, generally take their breakfast
at
home; after which, they sometimes spend an hour or two in
the house of a
friend. Many of them, but chiefly those of the
lower orders, in the
evening, visit a coffee-shop, either merely for
the sake of society, or to
listen to one of the reciters of romances,
or musicians, who entertain the
company at many of the coffee-shops
every night of this month. Numerous
passengers are seen
in the streets during the greater part of the night;
and most of
the shops at which sherbet and eatables are sold remain
open.
Night is thus turned into day; and particularly by the wealthy,
most of whom sleep during a great part of the day. It is a
custom of some
of the 'Ulama of
Cairo to have a zikr performed
in their houses every night
during this month; and some other
persons, also, occasionally invite their
friends, and entertain
them with a zikr or a khatmeh.
Every night during Ramadán, criers, called
“Musahhirs,” go
about, first to recite a
complimentary cry before the house of
each Muslim who is able to reward
them, and at a later hour to
announce the period of the
“sahoor,” or last meal.
1 There is
one of these criers to
each “khutt,” or small district, of
Cairo.
He begins
his rounds about two hours, or a little more, after
sunset (that is,
shortly after the night-prayers have been said);
1 It is from this latter office that the crier
is called “Musahhir.”

holding, with his left hand, a
small drum, called “báz,” or
“tablat
el-musahhir,”
1 and, in his right hand, a small stick
or strap, with
which he beats it; and is accompanied by a boy carrying
two
“kandeels” (or small glass lamps) in a frame made
of palm-sticks.
They stop before the house of every Muslim, excepting the
poor;
and on each occasion of their doing this, the musahhir beats his
little drum to the following measure, three times:—

after which he
chants—“He prospereth who saith ‘There is
no
deity but God”'—then he beats his drum in the same
manner as
before, and adds,—“‘Mohammad,
the Guide is the Apostle of
God.”'—Then again beating
his drum he generally continues,—“The
most happy of
nights to thee, O such a one!” (naming the
master of the house.)
Having previously inquired the names of
the inmates of each house, he
greets each person, excepting
women, in the same manner; mentioning every
brother, son, and
young unmarried daughter of the master: saying, in the
last case,
—“The most happy of nights to the chief
lady among brides,
2
such a one.” After each greeting he beats his drum; and
after
having greeted the man (or men), adds,—“May God
accept from
him [or them] his [or their] prayers and fasting and good
works.”
—He concludes by
saying,—“God preserve you, O ye generous,
every
year!”—At the houses of the great (as also sometimes
in
other cases), after commencing as above (“He prospereth
who
saith ‘There is no deity but God: Mohammad, the Guide, is
the
Apostle of God”'), he generally repeats a long chant in
unmeasured
rhyme; in which he first conjures God to pardon his
sins,
and blesses the Prophet, and then proceeds to relate the
story of the
“mearág” (or the Prophet's miraculous
ascension
to heaven), and other similar stories of miracles; beating
his
drum after every few words, or, rather, after every
rhyme.—A
house of mourning the musahhir passes by. He
generally
receives, at the house of a person of the middle orders,
two,
three, or four piasters on the “'eed” which
follows Ramadán:
some persons give him a trifle every night.
1 Described in the chapter on music.
2 Young ladies in Egypt are often called
“brides.”
If my reader be at all impressed by what has been above

related, of the office of the
musahhir, as illustrating the character
of the Muslims, he will be more
struck by what here follows.—
At many houses of the middle
classes in
Cairo, the women often
put a small coin (of five faddahs, or
from that sum to a piaster, or
more) into a piece of paper, and throw it
out of a window to the
musahhir; having first set fire to the paper, that
he may see where
it falls: he then, sometimes by their desire, and
sometimes of his
own accord, recites the Fát'hah, and relates to
them a short tale,
in unmeasured rhyme, for their amusement; as, for
instance, the
story of two “darrahs”—the
quarrels of two women who are
wives of the same man. Some of the tales
which he relates on
these occasions are of a grossly indecent nature; and
yet they
are listened to by females in houses of good repute. How
incongruous are such sequels! What inconsistency of character
do they
evince!
During this month, those calls from the mád'nehs which are
termed
“the Oola” and “the Ebed” are
discontinued; and, in
their stead, two other calls are chanted. The period
of the first
of these, which is termed the
“Abrár” (from the first word of
note
occurring in it), is between an hour and a half and half an
hour before
midnight, according as the night is long or short. It
consists of the
following verses of the Kur-án.
1 “But the just
shall drink of a cup
[of wine] mixed with [the water of] Káfoor;
a fountain from
which the servants of God shall drink: they shall
convey the same by
channels [whithersoever they please]. [These]
did fulfil their vow, and
dread the day, the evil whereof will
disperse itself far abroad; and give
food unto the poor and the
orphan and the bondsman for his sake, [saying,]
We feed you for
God's sake only: we desire no recompense from you, nor
any
thanks.”—The second call is termed the
“Selám” (or salutation);
and is a series
of invocations of blessings on the Prophet, similar
to those recited before
the Friday-prayers; but not always the
same. This is generally chanted
about half an hour after midnight.
The morning adán from the
mád'nehs is chanted much
earlier than usual, as a warning to the
Muslims to take their last
meal, the “sahoor;” in
winter, in the longest night, about two
hours and a half, and in the short
nights, about one hour and a
half, before the imsák. Another
adán is also made from the
dikkehs in the great mosques about
twenty minutes before the
imsák, as a final warning to any who
may have neglected to eat; and
at the period of the imsák, in
these mosques, the meekátee (who
1 The fifth and four following verses of the
Soorat el-Insán, or 76th chapter.

makes known the hours of prayer,
etc.), or some other person,
calls out “Irfa'oo!”
that is, “Remove ye” [your food, etc.]—
About an hour and a half before the imsák, the musahhir goes his
rounds to rouse or remind the people to eat at those houses where
he has
been ordered to call; knocking and calling until he is
answered; and the
porter of each quarter does the same at each
house in his
quarter.—Some persons eat but little for their fatoor,
and make
the sahoor the principal meal: others do the reverse; or
make both meals
alike. Most persons sleep about half the night.
Some few pious persons spend the last ten days and nights of
Ramadán in the mosque of the Hasaneyn or that of the Seyyideh
Zeyneb. One of these nights, generally supposed to be the 27th
of the
month
1 (that is,
the night preceding the 27th day), is called
“Leylet
el-Kadr” (the Night of Power, or of the Divine decree).
On this
night, the Kur-án is said to have been sent down to
Mohammad. It
is affirmed to be “better than a thousand
months;”
2 and the angels are believed to descend, and to be
occupied in
conveying blessings to the faithful from the commencement
of it until
daybreak. Moreover, the gates of heaven
being then opened, prayer is held
to be certain of success. Salt
water, it is said, suddenly becomes sweet on
this night; and
hence, some devout persons, not knowing which of the last
ten
nights of Ramadán is the Leylet el-Kadr, observe all those
nights
with great solemnity, and keep before them a vessel of salt
water,
which they occasionally taste, to try if it become sweet, so
that
they may be certain of the night. I find, however, that a
tradition
of the Prophet fixes it to be one of the odd nights; the 21st,
23rd,
25th, 27th, or 29th.
1 Not the night supposed by Sale, which is that
between the 23rd and 24th
days. See one of his notes on the 97th
chapter of the Kur-án.
On the first three days of “Showwál” (the tenth
month, the
next after Ramadán) is celebrated the minor of the
two grand
festivals which are ordained, by the religion of the Muslims, to
be
observed with general rejoicing. It is commonly called
“el-'Eed
es-Sugheiyir;” but more properly
“el-'Ed es-Sagheer.”
3 The
expiration of the fast of
Ramadán is the occasion of this festival.
Soon after sunrise on
the first day, the people having all dressed
in new or in their best
clothes, the men assemble in the mosques,
and perform the prayers of two
rek'ahs, a sunneh ordinance of the
3 It is also called “'Eed
el-Fitr” (or the Festival of the Breaking of the
Fast); and,
by the Turks, “Ramazán Beyrám.”

'eed; after which, the Khateeb
delivers an exhortation. Friends,
meeting in the mosque, or in the street,
or in each other's houses,
congratulate and embrace and kiss each other.
They generally
visit each other for this purpose. Some, even of the lower
classes,
dress themselves entirely in a new suit of clothes; and
almost
every one wears something new, if it be only a pair of shoes.
The servant is presented with one or more new articles of clothing
by the
master, and receives a few piasters from each of his master's
friends, if
they visit the house; or even goes to those friends, to
congratulate them,
and receives his present: if he have served a
former master, he also visits
him, and is in like manner rewarded
for his trouble; and sometimes he
brings a present of a dish of
“kahk” (or sweet
cakes), and obtains, in return, money of twice
the value, or more. On the
days of this 'eed, most of the people
of
Cairo eat
“feseekh” (or salted fish) and
“kahks,” “fateerehs”
(or thin,
folded pancakes), and “shureyks” (a kind of bun).
Some families also prepare a dish called “mumezzezeh,”
consisting
of stewed meat, with onions, and a quantity of treacle,
vinegar, and coarse flour; and the master usually procures dried
fruits
(“nukl”), such as nuts, raisins, etc., for his family.
Most of
the shops in the metropolis are closed, excepting those at
which
eatables and sherbet are sold; but the streets present a gay
appearance,
from the crowds of passengers in their holiday-clothes.
On one or more days of this festival, some or all of the
members of most
families, but chiefly the women, visit the tombs
of their relatives. This
they also do on the occasion of the other
grand festival, of which an
account will be given hereafter. The
visitors, or their servants, carry
palm-branches, and sometimes
sweet basil
(“reehán”), to lay upon the tomb which they go
to
visit. The palm-branch is broken into several pieces, and these,
or
the leaves only, are placed on the tomb. Numerous groups of
women are seen
on these occasions, bearing palm-branches, on
their way to the cemeteries
in the neighbourhood of the metropolis.
They are also provided, according
to their circumstances,
with kahks, shureyks, fateerehs, bread, dates, or
some other kind of
food, to distribute to the poor who resort to the
burial-grounds
on these days. Sometimes tents are pitched for them: the
tent
surrounds the tomb which is the object of the visit.
1 The

visitors recite the
Fát'hah; or, if they can afford it, employ a
person to recite
first the Soorat Yá-Seen, or a larger portion of the
Kur-án. Often a khatmeh (or recital of the whole of the
Kur-án)
is performed at the tomb, or in the house, by several
fikees. The
men generally return immediately after these rites have
been
performed, and the fragments or leaves of the palm-branch laid
on
the tomb: the women usually go to the tomb early in the
morning, and do not
return until the afternoon: some of them
(but these are not generally
esteemed women of correct conduct),
if they have a tent, pass the night in
it, and remain until the end
of the festival, or until the afternoon of the
following Friday: so
also do the women of a family possessed of a private,
enclosed
burial-ground, with a house within it; for there are many
such
enclosures, and not a few with houses for the accommodation of
the females, in the midst of the public cemeteries of
Cairo. Intrigues
are
said to be not uncommon with the females who spend
the night in tents among
the tombs. The great cemetery of
Báb en-Nasr, in the desert
tract immediately on the north of the
metropolis, presents a remarkable
scene on the two 'eeds. In a
part next the city-gate from which the
burial-ground takes its
name, many swings and whirligigs are erected, and
several large
tents; in some of which, dancers, reciters of Aboo-Zeyd,
and
other performers, amuse a dense crowd of spectators; and
throughout the burial ground are seen numerous tents for the
reception of
the visitors of the tombs.
1 The salutation of peace should be pronounced
on entering the burialground
and on arriving at the tomb, in the manner
described in Chap. x.,
in my account of visits to the tombs and
cenotaphs of saints. In the former
case it is general; and in the
latter, particular.
About two or three days after the 'eed above described, the
“Kisweh,” or covering of the Kaabeh, which is sent
annually
with the great caravan of pilgrims, is conveyed in procession
from
the Citadel of the metropolis, where it is manufactured at the
Sultán's expense, to the mosque of the Hasaneyn, to be sewed
together, and lined, preparatively to the approaching pilgrimage.
It is of
a coarse, black brocade, covered with inscriptions
1 of
passages from the
Kur-án, etc., which are interwoven with silk of
the same colour;
and having a broad band across each side,
ornamented with similar
inscriptions worked in gold.
1 This was denied by several of my Muslim
friends, before whom I casually
mentioned it; but, by producing a piece
of the Kisweh, I proved the truth
of my assertion. I state this to show
that a writer may often be charged with
committing an error on
authority which any person would consider perfectly
convincing.
2 The Kaabeh is a building in the centre of the
Temple of Mekkeh, most
highly respected by the Muslims. It is nearly in
the form of a cube. Its
height is somewhat more than thirty feet; and
each side is about the same, or
a little more, in width. It is not
exactly rectangular, nor exactly equilateral.
The black covering, after
having remained upon it nearly a year, is taken off
on the 25th of
Zu-l-Kaadeh, cut up, and sold to the pilgrims; and the building
is left
without a covering for the period of fifteen days: on the 10th of
Zu-l-Heggeh, the first day of the Great Festival, the new Kisweh is put
on.
The interior is also hung with a covering, which is renewed each
time that
a new Sultán ascends the Turkish throne. It is
necessary to renew the outer
covering every year, in consequence of its exposure to the rain, etc.
As the
use of stuffs entirely composed of silk is prohibited, the
Kisweh of the Kaabeh
is lined with cotton to render it allowable.
2 The

following account of the procession
of the Kisweh I write on my
return from witnessing it, on the 6th of
Showwál 1249 (or 15th of
February, 1834).
I took my seat, soon after sunrise, in the shop of the Básha's
booksellers, in the main street of the city, nearly opposite
the entrance
to the bázár called Khán El-Khaleelee. This
and
almost every shop in the street were crowded with persons
attracted
by the desire of witnessing the procession, old and
young;
for the Egyptians of every class and rank and age take
great pleasure in
viewing public spectacles; but the streets were
not so much thronged as
they usually are on the occasions of
the processions of the Mahmal. About
two hours after sunrise,
the four portions which form each one side of the
“Kisweh”
were borne past the spot where I had taken
my post; each of
the four pieces placed on an ass, with the ropes by which
they
were to be attached. The asses were not ornamented in any
way,
nor neatly caparisoned; and their conductors were common
felláhs, in the usual blue shirt. There was then an interval of
about three-quarters of an hour; and nothing to relieve the dulness
of this
long pause but the passing of a few darweeshes, and
two buffoons, who
stopped occasionally before a shop where they
saw any well-dressed persons
sitting, and, for the sake of obtaining
a present of about five faddahs (or
a little more than a farthing),
engaged in a sham quarrel, abused each
other in loud and gross
words, and violently slapped each other on the
face.
After this interval came about twenty ill-dressed men, bearing
on their
shoulders a long frame of wood, upon which was extended
one quarter of the
“Hezám” (that is, the belt or band above
mentioned). The Hezám is in four pieces, which, when sewed
together to the Kisweh, form one continuous band, so as to surround
the
Kaabeh entirely, at about two-thirds of its height. It
is of the same kind
of black brocade as the Kisweh itself. The

inscriptions in gold are well
worked in large and beautiful characters,
and surrounded by a border of
gold; and at each end, where
the upper and lower borders unite, the
Hezám is ornamented in
a tasteful manner, with green and red
silk, sewed on, and embroidered
with gold. One or other of the bearers
frequently went
aside to ask for a present from some respectably dressed
spectator.
There was an interval of about a quarter of an hour after
the first quarter of the Hezám passed by: the other three
portions
were then borne along, one immediately after another, in the
same
manner. Then there was another interval, of about half an hour;
after which there came several tall camels, slightly stained with the
red
dye of the henna, and having high, ornamented saddles, such
as I have
described in my account of the return of the Mahmal:
upon each of these
were one or two boys or girls; and upon
some were cats. These were followed
by a company of
Baltageeyeh (or Pioneers), a very good military band (the
instruments
of various kinds, but mostly trumpets, and all European),
and the Básha's guard, a regiment of infantry, of picked
young
men, in uniforms of a dark blueish brown, with new red
shoes, and with
stockings.
The “Burko'” (or Veil),
1 which is the curtain that is hung
before the door of the Kaabeh, was next borne along, stretched
upon a high,
flattish frame of wood, fixed on the back of a fine
camel. It was of black
brocade, embroidered in the same
manner as the Hezám, with
inscriptions from the Kur-án in letters
of gold, but more richly
and more highly ornamented, and was
lined with green silk. The face of the
Burko' was extended on
the right side of the frame; and the green silk
lining on the left.
It was followed by numerous companies of darweeshes,
with their
banners; among which were several sháleeshes (such as
I have
described in my account of the Dóseh at the festival of
the
Mearág), which are the banners of the principal orders
of
darweeshes. Many of them bore flags, inscribed with the profession
of the faith (“There is no deity but God: Mohammad is
God's
Apostle”), or with words from the Kur-án, and the
names
of God, the Prophet, and the founders of their orders. Several
Kádiree darweeshes bore nets, of various colours, each extended
upon a framework of hoops upon a pole: these were fishermen.
1 This is often called, by the vulgar,
“the veil of sitna Fát'meh;” because
it is said that Fátimeh Shegeret ed-Durr, the wife of the
Sultán Es-Sáleh,
was the first person who sent a
veil of this kind to cover the door of the
Kaabeh.

Some of the darweeshes were
employed in repeating, as in a
common zikr, the name and attributes of God.
Two men, armed
with swords and shields, engaged each other in a mock
combat.
One other, mounted on a horse, was fantastically dressed in
sheep-skins,
and wore a high skin cap, and a grotesque false beard,
composed of short pieces of cord or twist, apparently of wool,
with
mustaches formed of two long brown feathers: he occasionally
pretended to
write “fetwas” (or judicial decisions), upon
scraps
of paper given to him by spectators, with a piece of stick,
which he
feigned to charge with a substitute for ink by applying
it to his horse as
though it were intended for a goad. But the
most remarkable group in this
part of the procession consisted of
several darweeshes of the sect of the
Rifá'ees, called Owlád-'Ilwán,
each of
whom bore in his hand an iron spike, about a foot in
length, with a ball of
the same metal at the thick end, having a
number of small and short chains
attached to it. Several of these
darweeshes, in appearance, thrust the
spike with violence into
their eyes, and withdrew it, without showing any
mark of injury:
it seemed to enter to the depth of about an inch. This
trick was
very well performed. Five faddahs, or even a pipeful of
tobacco,
seemed to be considered a sufficient recompense to the
religious
juggler for this display of his pretended miraculous power.
The
spectators near me seemed to entertain no suspicion of any fraud
in this singular performance; and I was reproached by one who
sat by me, a
man of very superior information, for expressing my
opinion that it was a
very clever piece of deception. Most of the
darweeshes in the procession
were Rifá'ees: their sheykh, on
horseback, followed them.
Next came the “Mahmal,” which I have described in my
account
of its return to
Cairo. It is added to the procession of the
kisweh for the sake of increasing the show: the grand procession
of the
Mahmal previous to the departure of the great caravan of
pilgrims takes
place between two and three weeks after. Another
black covering, of an
oblong form, embroidered in like manner
with gold, to be placed over the
Makám Ibráheem, in the temple
of Mekkeh, was borne
after the Mahmal. Behind this rode a
Turkish military officer, holding,
upon an embroidered kerchief,
a small case, or bag, of green silk,
embroidered with gold, the
receptacle of the key of the Kaabeh. Then
followed the last
person in the procession: this was the half-naked sheykh
described
in my account of the return of the Mahmal, who constantly
follows this sacred object, and accompanies the caravan

to and from Mekkeh, mounted on a
camel, and incessantly rolling
his head.
1
1 I went to the mosque of the Hasaneyn a few
days after, to examine the
Kisweh and the other objects above
described, that I might be able to make
my account of them more
accurate and complete. I was permitted to handle
them all at my
leisure; and gave a small present for this privilege, and for a
superfluous piece of the Kisweh, for which I asked, a span in length,
and
nearly the same in breadth.
In the latter part of Showwál, not always on the same day of
the
month, but generally on or about the twenty-third, the principal
officers
and escort of the great caravan of pilgrims pass, from
the Citadel, through
the metropolis, in grand procession, followed
by the Mahmal. The procession
is called that of the Mahmal.
The various persons who take part in it, most
of whom proceed
with the caravan to Mekkeh, collect in the Kara
Meydán and
the Rumeyleh (two large open tracts) below the
Citadel, and
there take their places in the prescribed order. As this
procession
is conducted with less pomp in almost every successive
year, I shall describe it as I first witnessed it, during my former
visit
to Egypt. The streets through which it passed were lined
with spectators;
some, seated on the mastab'ahs of the shops
(which were all closed), and
others, standing on the ground below.
I obtained a good place at a shop in
the main street, through
which it passed towards the gate called
Báb en-Nasr.
First, a cannon was drawn along, about three hours after sunrise:
it was a
small field-piece, to be used for the purpose of
firing signals for the
departure of the caravan after each halt.
Then followed two companies of
irregular Turkish cavalry (Delees
and Tufekjees), about five hundred men,
most shabbily clad, and
having altogether the appearance of banditti. Next,
after an
interval of about half an hour, came several men mounted on
camels, and each beating a pair of the large copper kettle-drums
called
nakkárahs,
2 attached to the fore part of the saddle. Other
camels, with large
stuffed saddles, of the same kind as those
described in my account of the
return of the Mahmal, without
riders, followed those above mentioned. These
camels were all
slightly tinged of a dingy orange red with henna. Some of
them
had a number of fresh, green palm-branches fixed upright upon
the
saddles, like enormous plumes; others were decorated with
small flags, in
the same manner as those above alluded to: several
had a large bell hung on
each side; some, again, bore water-skins;
and one was laden with the
“khazneh,” a square case, covered
2 These are described in the chapter on music.

with red cloth, containing the
treasure for defraying those expenses
of the pilgrimage which fall upon the
government. The
baggage of the Emeer el-Hágg (or Chief of the
Pilgrims) then
followed, borne by camels. With his furniture and
provisions,
etc., was conveyed the new “Kisweh.”
After this, there was
another interval.
The next persons in the procession were several darweeshes,
moving their
heads from side to side, and repeating the name of
God. With these were
numerous camel-drivers, sakkas, sweepers,
and others; some of them crying
“'Arafát!
1 O God!” and
“God! God!
[May the journey be] with safety!” Then, again,
followed several
camels; some, with palm-branches, and others,
with large bells, as before
described. Next, the takht'rawán (or
litter) of the Emeer
el-Hágg, covered with red cloth, was borne
along by two camels;
the foremost of which had a saddle decorated
with a number of small flags.
Some Arabs, and the “Deleel
el-Hágg” (or
Guide of the Caravan), followed it; and next came
several camels, and
groups of darweeshes and others, as before.
Then followed about fifty
members of the Básha's household, well
dressed and mounted; a
number of other officers, with silverheaded
sticks, and guns; the chief of
the Delees, with his officers;
and another body of members of the
household, mounted like
the first, but persons of an inferior order. These
were followed
by several other officers of the court, on foot, dressed in
kaftáns
of cloth of gold. Next came two swordsmen, naked to the
waist,
and each having a small, round shield: they frequently stopped,
and engaged each other in sport; and occasionally received remuneration
from some of the spectators. These preceded a company
of darweeshes,
camel-drivers, and others; and the shouts
before mentioned were repeated.
1 “'Arafát” is
the name of the mountain which is one of the principal
objects of
pilgrimage.
After a short interval, the sounds of drums and fifes were heard;
and a
considerable body of the Nizám, or regular troops, marched
by.
Next followed the “Wálee” (or chief magistrate
of police),
with several of his officers; then, the attendants of the
“Emeer
el-Hágg,” the
“Emeer” himself, three kátibs (or clerks), a
troop
of Maghrab'ee horsemen, and three “Muballighs”
of the Mountain,
in white 'abáyehs (or woollen cloaks),
interwoven with gold.
The office of the last is to repeat certain words of
the Khateeb
(or preacher) on Mount 'Arafát. Then again there
intervened
numerous groups of camel-drivers, sweepers, sakkas, and
others;

many of them shouting as those
before. In the midst of these
rode the
“Imáms” of the four orthodox sects; one to each
sect.
Several companies of darweeshes, of different orders, followed
next, with the tall banners and flags of the kind mentioned in my
account
of the procession of the Kisweh; the Kádireeyeh having
also, in
addition to their poles with various-coloured nets, long
palm-sticks, as
fishing-rods. Kettledrums, hautboys, and other
instruments, at the head of
each of these companies, produced a
harsh music. They were followed by
members of various trades;
each body headed by their sheykh.
Next came several camels; and then, the “Mahmal.” Many
of the people in the streets pressed violently towards it, to touch
it with
their hands, which, having done so, they kissed; and many
of the women who
witnessed the spectacle from the latticed windows
of the houses let down
their shawls or head-veils, in order
to touch with them the sacred object.
Immediately behind the
Mahmal was the same person whom I have described as
following
it on its return to
Cairo, and in the procession of the Kisweh:
the
half-naked sheykh, seated on a camel, and rolling his head.
In former years, the Mahmal used to be conveyed, on this
occasion, with much
more pomp, particularly in the times of the
Memlooks, who attended it clad
in their richest dresses, displaying
their most splendid arms and armour,
and, in every way, vieing
with each other in magnificence. It used
generally to be preceded
by a group of Saadeeyeh darweeshes, devouring live
serpents.
The Mahmal, the baggage of the Emeer, etc., generally remain
two or three or
more days in the plain of the Hasweh, on the
north of the metropolis; then
proceed to the Birket el-Hágg (or
Lake of the Pilgrims), about
eleven miles from the city, and
remain there two days. This latter
halting-place is the general
rendezvous of the pilgrims. The caravan
usually departs thence
on the twenty-seventh of Showwál. The
journey to Mekkeh
occupies thirty-seven days. The route lies over rocky and
sandy
deserts, with very few verdant spots. To diminish the hardships
of the journey, the caravan travels slowly, and mostly by night;
starting
about two hours before sunset, and halting the next
morning a little after
sunrise. The litters most generally used
by the pilgrims I have described
in the account of the return of
the caravan.—Most of the Turkish
pilgrims, and many others,
prefer going by way of El-Kuseyr or
Es-Suweys
1 and
the Red
1 Thus is properly pronounced the name of the
town which we commonly
call Suez.

Sea; and set out from
Cairo
generally between two and three
months before the great caravan.
On the tenth of “Zu-l-Heggeh” (the last month of the
year)
commences the Great Festival, “El-'Eed el-Kebeer;
1 which
like the
former 'eed, lasts three days, or four, and is observed
with nearly the
same customs. Every person puts on his best
clothes or a new suit; but it
is more common to put on new
clothes on the minor 'eed. Prayers are
performed in the mosques
on the first day, soon after sunrise, as on the
other festival; and
the same customs of visiting and congratulation, and
giving
presents (though generally of smaller sums) to servants and
others,
are observed by most persons. The sacrifice that is performed
on the first day, which is the day of the pilgrim's sacrifice, has
been
mentioned in the third chapter of this work. It is a duty
observed by most
persons who can easily afford to do it. For
several previous days, numerous
flocks of sheep, and many
buffaloes, are driven into the metropolis, to be
sold for sacrifice.
Another custom observed on this festival, that of
visiting
the tombs, I have also before had occasion to describe, in
the
account of the ceremonies of the former 'eed. In most respects,
what is called the Minor Festival is generally observed with more
rejoicing
than that which is termed the Great Festival. On this
latter
‘eed, most persons who have the means to do so prepare
a dish
called “fetteh,” composed of boiled mutton, or other
meat
(the meat of the victim), cut into small pieces, placed upon
broken
bread, upon which is poured the broth of the meat, and some
vinegar flavoured with a little garlic fried in a small quantity of
melted
butter, and then sprinkled over with a little pepper.
1 It is also called “'Eed
el-Kurbán” (or the Festival of the Sacrifice),
and
by the Turks, “Kurbán
Beyrám.”
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXVI.
PERIODICAL PUBLIC FESTIVALS, ETC.—continued.
It is remarkable that the Muslims of Egypt observe
certain customs
of a religious or superstitious nature at particular
periods of
the religious almanac of the Copts; and even, according to
the
same system, calculate the times of certain changes of the weather.

Thus they calculate the period of
the “Khamáseen,” when hot
southerly winds
are of frequent occurrence, to commence on the
day immediately following
the Coptic festival of Easter Sunday,
and to terminate on the Day of
Pentecost (or Whitsunday); an
interval of forty-nine days.
1
1 I believe that this period has been called by
all European writers who
have mentioned it, excepting myself,
“El-Khamseen,” or by the same term
differently
expressed, signifying the Fifty; i.e. the Fifty days; but it is always
termed by the
Arabs “el-Khamáseen,” which signifies the Fifties, being a
vulgar plural of Khamseen. In like manner, the Arabs call the
corresponding
period of the Jewish calendar by a term exactly agreeing
with “el-Khamáseen;”
namely
“el-Khamseenát;” only its last day being termed “el-Khamseen.”
See De Sacy's “Chrestomathie Arabe,” 2nde
éd., tome i., p. 98 of the
Arabic text, and pp. 292 and 320
of his translation and notes. This eminent
scholar, however, appears to
have had no authority but that of Europeans for
the name of the
above-mentioned period of the Coptic calendar; for he has
followed the
travellers, and written it “Khamsin.”
The Wednesday next before this period is called “Arba”
a
Eiyoob,” or Job's Wednesday. Many persons, on this day,
wash
themselves with cold water, and rub themselves with the creeping
plant called “raaráa Eiyoob,” or
“ghubeyra” (inula Arabica, and
inula undulata), on
account of a tradition which relates that Job
did so to obtain restoration
to health. This and other customs
about to be mentioned were peculiar to
the Copts; but are now
observed by many Muslim in the towns, and by more in
the
villages. The other customs just alluded to are that of eating
eggs, dyed externally red or yellow or blue, or some other colour,
on the
next day (Thursday); and, on the Friday (Good Friday),
a dish of khaltah,
composed of kishk,
2
with fool nábit,
3 lentils,
rice, onions, etc. On the Saturday, also, it is a common
custom
of men and women to adorn their eyes with kohl. This day is
called “Sebt en-Noor” (Saturday of the Light); because a
light,
said to be miraculous, appears during the festival then
celebrated
in the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
2 “Kishk” (as the word is
commonly pronounced, but properly “keshik”) is
prepared from wheat, first moistened, then dried, trodden in a vessel to
separate
the husks, and coarsely ground with a hand-mill: the meal is
mixed
with milk, and about six hours afterwards is spooned out upon a
little straw or
bran, and then left for two or three days to dry. When
required for use, it is
either soaked or pounded, and put into a sieve,
over a vessel; and then boiling
water is poured on it. What remains in
the sieve is thrown away; what
passes through is generally poured into
a saucepan of boiled meat or fowl, over
the fire. Some leaves of white
beet, fried in butter, are usually added to each
plate of it.
3 Beans soaked in water until they begin to
sprout, and then boiled.
A custom termed “Shemm en-Neseem” (or the Smelling of

the Zephyr) is observed on the
first day of the Khamáseen.
Early in the morning of this day,
many persons, especially women,
break an onion, and smell it; and in the
course of the forenoon,
many of the citizens of
Cairo ride or walk a little
way into the
country, or go in boats, generally northwards, to take the
air, or,
as they term it,
smell the air, which, on
that day, they believe to
have a wonderfully beneficial effect. The greater
number dine
in the country, or on the river. This year (1834), they
were
treated with a violent hot wind, accompanied by clouds of dust,
instead of the neseem: but considerable numbers, notwithstanding,
went out
to “smell” it.—The ‘ulama have their
“shemm enneseem”
at a fixed period of the solar year;
the first three days
of the spring-quarter, corresponding with the Persian
“Now-róz,”
called by the Arabs
“Nórooz.”
The night of the 17th of June, which corresponds with the 11th
of the Coptic
month of Ba-ooneh, is called “Leylet en-Nuktah”
(or
the Night of the Drop); as it is believed that a miraculous
drop then falls
into the Nile, and causes it to rise. Astrologers
calculate the precise
moment when the “drop” is to fall; which
is always in
the course of the night above mentioned. Many of
the inhabitants of
Cairo
and its neighbourhood, and of other
parts of Egypt, spend this night on the
banks of the Nile; some,
in houses of their friends; others, in the open
air. Many also,
and especially the women, observe a singular custom on the
Ley-let
en-Nuktah; placing, upon the terrace of the house, after
sunset,
as many lumps of dough as there are inmates in the house, a
lump for each person, who puts his, or her, mark upon it: at
day-break, on
the following morning, they look at each of these
lumps; and if they find
it cracked, they infer that the life of the
person for whom it was placed
will be long, or not terminate that
year; but if they find it not cracked,
they infer the reverse.
Some say that this is also done to discover whether
the Nile will
rise high in the ensuing season. Another absurd custom
is
observed on the fourth following nigth, “Leylet
es-Saratán,”
when the sun enters the sign of Cancer:
it is the writing a charm
to exterminate, or drive away, bugs. This charm
consists of the
following words from the Kur-án,
1 written in separate
letters—
“'Hast thou not considered those who left
their habitations, and
they were thousands, for fear of death? and God said
unto them
die:' die: die.” The last word of the text is thus
written three
times. The above charm, it is said, should be written on
three

pieces of paper, which are to be
hung upon the walls of the room
which is to be cleared of the bugs; one
upon each wall, excepting
that at the end where is the entrance, or that in
which is the
entrance.
The Nile, as I have mentioned in the Introduction to this work,
begins to
rise about, or soon after, the period of the summer solstice.
From, or
about, the 27th of the Coptic month Ba-ooneh
(3rd of July) its rise is
daily proclaimed in the streets of the
metropolis. There are several criers
to perform this office; each
for a particular district of the town. The
Crier of the Nile
(“Munádee en-Neel”)
generally goes about his district early in
the morning; but sometimes
later; accompanied by a boy. On
the day immediately preceding that on which
he commences his
daily announcement of the rise of the Nile, he
proclaims,—“God
hath been propitious to the lands!
The day of good news! Tomorrow,
the announcement, with good
fortune!”—The daily
announcement is as follows:—
Munádee. “Mohammad is the Prophet
of guidance!”
Boy.
“The Mahmals journey to him!”
1
M. “The guide: peace be
on
him!”
B. “He will prosper who
blesseth him!” [The
Munádee and boy the continue, or
sometimes they omit the preceding
from, and begin thus.]
M. “O Thou whose government
is excellent!”
B. “My Lord! I have none beside
Thee!”
[After this, they proceed, in many cases, thus.]
M. “The treasuries
of the Bountiful are
full!”
B. “And at the gate there is
no
scarcity!”
M. “I extol the
perfection of Him who spread out
the earth!”
B. “And hath given running rivers!”
M. “Through
whom the fields become
green!”
B. “After death He
causeth
them to live!”
M. “God
hath given abundance, and increased
[the river] and watered the high
lands!”
B. “And the mountains
and the sands and the fields!”
M.
“O Alternator of the day
and night!”
B. “My Lord! There is none, beside
Thee!”
M.
“O Guide of the wandering! O God!”
B. “Guide me to the path
of prosperity!”
[They then continue, or, sometimes omitting
all that here precedes,
commence as follow.]
M. “O Amiable!
O
Living! O Self-subsisting!”
B.“O
Great in power! O Almighty!”
M. “O Aider! regard me with
favour!”
B. “O
Bountiful!
Withdraw not Thy protection!”
M.
“God preserve
to me my master [or my master the
“emeer”] such a one [naming
the master of the house],
and the good people of his house! O
Bountiful! O God!”
B. “Ay! please God!”
M. “God give

them a happy morning, from Himself;
and increase their prosperity,
from Himself!”
B. “Ay! please God!”
M.
“God preserve to
me my master [etc.] such a one [naming again
the master of the
house]; and increase to him the favours of God! O
Bountiful!
O God!”
B. “Ay!
please God!” [Then brothers, sons, and
unmarried daughters, if
there by any, however young, are mentioned
in the same manner, as follows.]
M. “God preserve to
me my master
[etc.] such a one, for a long period! O Bountiful!
O God!”
B. “Ay! please God!”
M. “God preserve to me
my mistress, the
chief lady among brides, such a one, for a long
period! O Bountiful! O
God!”
B. “Ay! please
God!”
M.
“May He abundantly bless them with His perfect abundance;
and pour abundantly the Nile over the country! O Bountiful! O
God!”
B. “Ay! please
God!”
M. “Five [or six, etc.,
digits]
to-day: and the Lord is bountiful!”
B. “Bless ye Mohammad!”
—These last
words are added in the fear lest the rising of the
river should be affected
by a malicious wish, or evil eye, which is
supposed to be rendered
ineffectual if the malicious person bless
the Prophet.
1
1 He would be guilty of a sin if he did not do
this when desired.
Sometimes, the people of a house before which the Munádee
makes
his cry give him daily a piece of bread: this is a common
custom among the
middle orders: but most persons give him
nothing until the day before the
opening of the Canal of
Cairo.
Very little reliance is to be placed upon
the announcement which
he makes of the height which the river has attained;
for he is
generally uninformed or misinformed by the persons whose
duty
it is to acquaint him upon this subject: but the people mostly
listen with interest to his proclamation. He and his boy repeat
this cry
every day, until the day next before that on which the
dam that closes the
mouth of the Canal of
Cairo is cut.
On this day (that is, the former of those just mentioned), the
Munádee goes about his district, accompanied by a number of
little boys, each of whom bears a small coloured flag, called
“ráyeh;” and announces the “Wefa
en-Neel” (the Completion,
or Abundance, of the Nile); for thus
is termed the state of the
river when it has risen sufficiently high for
the government to
proclaim that it has attained the sixteenth cubit of the
Nilometer.
In this, however, the people are always deceived: for there is
an
old law, that the land-tax cannot be exacted unless the Nile rises
to the height of sixteen cubits of the Nilometer; and the government
thinks
it proper to make the people believe, as early as

possible, that it has attained this
height. The period when the
Wefa en-Neel is proclaimed is when the river
has actually risen
about twenty or twenty-one feet in the neighbourhood of
the
metropolis; which is generally between the 6th and 16th of
August
(or the 1st and 11th of the Coptic month of Misra):
1 this
is when there yet remain, of
the measure of a moderately good
rise, in the neighbourhood of the
metropolis, four or three feet.
On the day above mentioned (the next before
that on which the
canal is to be opened), the Munádee and the
boys who accompany
him with little
“ráyát” (or flags) make the
following
announcement:—
Munádee. “The river hath given
abundance, and completed
[its measure]!”
Boys. “God hath given abundance!”
2
M.
“And Dár en-Nahás
3 is filled!”
B. “God, etc.”
M.
“And
the canals flow!”
B.
“God, etc.”
M. “And the
vessels are
afloat!”
B. “God,
etc.”
M. “And the hoarder [of
grain] has
failed!”
B. “God,
etc.”
M. “By permission of the
Mighty,
the Requiter!”
B.
“God, etc.”
M. “And
there remains nothing—”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “To the perfect completion!”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “This is an annual custom.”
B. “God,
etc.”
M
“And may you live to every year!”
B. “God, etc.”
M “And if the hoarder wish for
scarcity.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “May God visit him, before death, with
blindness and affliction!”
B.“God, etc.”
M. “This generous person
4 loveth
the generous.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And an admirable palace
is built for
him.”
5
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And its columns are
incomparable jewels.”
B. “God, etc.”
M “Instead of palmsticks
and
timber:”
B. “God, etc.”
M “And it has a thousand
windows that
open:”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And before
every window is
Selsebeel.”
6
B. “God, etc.”
M. “Paradise is
the abode of the generous.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And Hell is
the abode of the avaricious.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “May God
not cause me to stop before
the door of an avaricious woman,
1 This present year (1834), the river having
risen with unusual rapidity, the
dam was cut on the 5th of August.
Fears were entertained lest it should overflow
the dam before it was
cut: which would have been regarded as an evil omen.
2 The words thus translated, the boys pronounce
“O'fa-lléh,” for
“Owfa-lláh.”
3 This an old building between the aqueduct and
Masr el-'Ateekah, where
the Sultáns and Governors of Egypt
used to alight, and inspect the state of
the river, previously to the
cutting of the dam of the cancel.
4 The person before whose house the announcement
is made.
6 A Fountain of Paradise.

nor of an avaricious
man:”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “Nor of one
who measures the water in
the jar:”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “Nor
who counts the bread while it
is yet dough:”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And if a cake be wanting, orders a
fast:”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “Nor who shuts up the eats at
supper-time:”
B. “God,
etc.”
M. “Nor who drives away the
dogs upon the walls.”
B. “God,
etc.”
M. “The world is
brightened.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And the damsels have adorned
themselves.”
B. “God,
etc.”
M. “And the old women tumble
about.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And the married man hath added to his wife
eight others.”
B. “God, etc.”
M. “And the bachelor hath married eighteen.”
—This cry is continued until somebody in the house gives a
present to the Munádee; the amount of which is generally from
ten faddahs to piaster; but many persons give two piasters; and
grandees, a
kheyreeyeh, or nine piasters.
During this day, preparations are made for cutting the dam of
the canal.
This operation attracts a great crowd of spectators,
partly form the
political importance attached to it; but, being
always prematurely
performed, it is now without much reason
made an occasion of public
festivity.
The dam is constructed before, or soon after, the commencement
of the Nile's
increase. The “Khaleeg,” or Canal, at the
distance of
about four hundred feet within its entrance, is crossed
by an old stone
bridge of one arch. About sixty feet in front
of this bridge is the dam;
which is of earth; very broad at the
bottom, and diminishing in breadth
towards the top, which is flat,
and about three yards broad. The top of the
dam rises to the
height of about twenty-two or twenty-three fee above the
level
of the Nile when at the lowest; but not so high above the bed
of
the canal; for his is several feet above the low-water mark
of the river;
and consequently dry for some months, when the
river is low. The banks of
the canal are a few feet higher than
the top of the dam. Nearly the same
distance in front of the
dam that the latter is distant from the bridge, is
raised a round
pillar of earth, diminishing towards the top, in the form of
a truncated
cone, and not quite so high as the dam. This is called the
“'arooseh” (or bride), for a reason which will presently
be stated.
Upon its flat top, and upon that of the dam, a little maize
or
millet is generally sown. The ‘arooseh is always washed
down
by the rising tide before the river has attained to its summit,
and
generally more than a week or fortnight before the dam is cut.
It is believed that the custom of forming this ᾽arooseh originated

from an ancient superstitious
usage, which is mentioned by Arab
authors, and, among them, by
El-Makreezee. This historian
relates, that, in the year of the conquest of
Egypt by the Arabs,
‘Amr Ibn-El-'A's, the Arab general, was
told, that the Egyptians
were accustomed at the period when the Nile began
to rise, to
deck a young virgin in gay apparel, and throw her into the
river
as a sacrifice, to obtain a plentiful inundation. This barbarous
custom, it is said, he abolished; and the Nile, in consequence,
did not
rise in the least degree during the space of nearly three
months after the
usual period of the commencement of its increase.
The people were greatly
alarmed; thinking that a famine would
certainly ensue: ‘Amr,
therefore, wrote to the Khaleefeh, to inform
him of what he had done, and
of the calamity with which
Egypt was, in consequence, threatened.
‘Omar returned a brief
answer, expressing his approbation of
‘Amr's conduct, and desiring
him, upon the receipt of the
letter, to throw a note, which it enclosed,
into the Nile. The purport of
this note was as follows:—
“From
‘Abd-Allah ‘Omar, Prince of the Faithful, to the Nile
of
Egypt. If thou flow of thine own accord, flow not: but if it be
God, the One, the Mighty, who causeth thee to flow, we implore
God, the
One, the Mighty, to make thee flow.”—‘Amr did
as he
was commanded; and the Nile, we are told, rose sixteen cubits
in
the following night.—This tale is, indeed, hard to be believed,
even divested of the miracle.
On the north side of the Canal, overlooking the dam, and
almost close to the
bridge, was a small building of stone, from
which the grandees of
Cairo
used to witness the operation of cutting
the dam. This building has become
a ruin; and upon its
remains is erected a large tent for the reception of
those officers
who have to witness and superintend the cutting. Some
other
tents are also erected for other visitors; and the government
supplies
a great number of fire-works, chiefly rockets, to honour the
festival, and to amuse the populace during the night preceding
the day when
the dam is cut, and during the operation itself,
which is performed early
in the morning. Many small tents, for
the sale of sweet-meats, fruits, and
other eatables, and coffee, etc.
are likewise pitched along the bank of the
isle of Er-Ródah,
opposite the entrance of the Canal. The day of
the cutting of
the dam of the Canal is called ‘Yóm
Gebr el-Báhr,” which is
said to signify
“the Day of the Breaking of the River;” though
the
word “gebr,” which is thus interpreted
“breaking,” has really
the reverse signification. The
term “Yóm Wefa el-Báhr,” or

“Wefa
en-Neel,” before explained, is also, and more properly,
applied
to this day. The festival of the Canal is also called
“Mósim el-Khaleeg.”
In the afternoon of the day preceding that on which the dam
is cut, numerous
boats, hired by private parties, for pleasure, repair
to the neighbourhood
of the entrance of the Canal. Among
theses is a very large boat, called the
“'Akabeh.”
1 It is painted
for the occasion, in a gaudy, but
rude, manner; and has two or
more small cannons on board, and numerous
lamps attached to
the ropes, forming various devices, such as a large stat,
etc.: it
has also, over the cabin, a large kind of close awning,
composed
of pieces of silk, and other stuffs; and is adorned with two
pennants.
It is vulgarly believed that this boat represents a
magnificent
vessel, in which the Egyptians used, before the conquest
of
their country by the Arabs, to convey the virgin, whom it is said,
they threw into the Nile. It sails from Boolák about three hours
after noon; taking passengers for hire, men and women; the latter
being
usually placed, if they prefer it, in the large awning above
mentioned. It
is made fast to the bank of the isle of Er-Ródah,
immediately
opposite the entrance of the Canal. Most of the
other boats also remain
near it during the night, along the bank
of the island; but some, all the
evening and night, are constantly
sailing up or rowing down the river. In
many boats, the crews
amuse themselves and their passengers by singing,
often accompanied
by the darabukkeh and zummárah; and some
private parties
hire professional musicians to add to their diversion of
the
river. The festival is highly enjoyed by the crowds who attend
it;
though there is little that a stranger would think could minister
to their
amusement: they seem to require nothing more to enliven
them than crowds
and bustle, with a pipe and a cup of coffee.
In former years, the festival
was always attended by dancing girls
(who are now forbidden to perform),
and by singers, instrumental
musicians, and reciters of romances. In the
evening, before it is
dark, the exhibition of fire-works commences; and
this if continued,
together with the firing of guns from the
‘akabeh and two
or more gun-boats, every quarter of an hour
during the right.
About twelve guns are fired on each of these occasions:
the whole
number fired at the night's festival of the present year was
about
six hundred. The fire-works which are displayed during the night
1 “'Akab” is the general name of the kind of boats which navigate
the Nile; and “'akabeh” (plural
“'akabát), the name of a single boat
of this
kind.

consist of little else than rockets
and a few blue lights: the best
are kept till morning; and exhibited in
broad day-light, during
the cutting of the dam. At nights, the river and
its banks present
a remarkably picturesque scene. Numerous boats are
constantly
passing up and down; and the lamps upon the rigging of the
‘akabeh, and in other boats, as well as on the shore, where
there
are also many mesh'als stuck in the ground (several upon the dam
and its vicinity, and many more upon the bank of the island),
have a
striking effect, which is occasionally rendered more lively
by the firing
of the guns, and the ascent of a number of rockets.
The most crowded part
of the scene of the festival at night is the
bank of the island; where
almost every person is too happy to
sleep, even if the noise of the guns,
etc., did not prevent him.
Before sunrise, a great number of workmen begin to cut the
dam. This labour
devolves, in alternate years, upon the Muslim
grave-diggers and on the Jew;
both of whom are paid by the
government: but when it falls to the Jews, and
on a Saturday,
they are under the necessity of paying a handsome sum of
money
to escape the sin of profaning their sabbath by doing what the
government requires of them. With a kind of hoe, the dam is
cut thinner and
thinner, from the back (the earth being removed
in baskets, and thrown upon
the bank), until, at the top, it
remains about a foot thick: this is
accomplished by about an
hour after sunrise. Shortly before this time, when
dense crowds
have assembled in the neighbourhood of the dam, on each
bank
of the Canal, the Governor of the metropolis arrives, and alights
at the large tent before mentioned, by the dam: some other
great officers
are also present; and the Kádee attends, and writers
a document
to attest the fact of the river's having risen to the
height sufficient for
the opening of the Canal, and of this operation
having been performed;
which important document is
despatched with speed to Constantinople.
Meanwhile, the firing
of guns, and the display of the fire-works, continue;
and towards
the close of the operation, the best of the fire-works are
exhibited;
when, in the glaring sunshine, they can hardly be seen.
When
the dam has been cut away to the degree above mentioned, and
all
the great officers whose presence is required have arrived, the
Governor of
the metropolis throws a purse of small gold coins
to the labourers. A boat,
on board of which is an officer of the
late Wálee, is then
propelled against the narrow ridge of earth,
and breaking the slight
barrier, passes through it, and descends
with the cataract thus formed. The
person here mentioned is

an old man, named Hammoodeh, who
was “sarrág báshee”of
the
Wálee: it was his office to walk immediately before his
master
when the latter took his ordinary rides, preceded by a
long train of
officers, through the streets and environs of the
metropolis. Just as his
boat approaches the dam, the Governor
of
Cairo throws into it a purse of
gold, as a present for him.
The remains of the dam are quickly washed away,
by the influx
of the water into the bed of the Canal; and numerous
other
boats enter; pass along the Canal throughout the whole length
of
the city, and, some of them, several miles farther; and return.
Formerly, the Sheykh el-Beled, or the Básha, with other great
officers, presided at this fête, which was celebrated with much
pomp; and money was thrown into the Canal, and caught by
the populace; some
of whom plunged into the water with nets;
but several lives were generally
lost in the scramble. This present
year (1834), three persons were drowned
on the day of the
opening of the Canal; one in the Canal itself, and two in
the
lake of the Ezbekeeyeh. A few minutes after I had entered my
house, on my return from witnessing the cutting of the dam, and
the
festivities of the preceding night (which I passed partly on
the river, and
partly on the isle of Er-Ródah), a woman, having
part of her
dress, and her face, which was uncovered, besmeared
with mud, passed by my
door, screaming for the loss of her son,
who was one of the three persons
drowned on this occasion.
The water entered the Ezbekeeyeh by a new Canal,
on the day
preceding that on which the dam was cut. Crowds collected
round it on this day, and will for many following days (I am
writing a few
days after the opening of the Canal), to enjoy the
view of the large
expanse of water, which, though very turbid, is
refreshing to the sight in
so dry and dusty a place as
Cairo, and
at this hot season of the year.
Several tents are pitched by it,
at which visitors are supplied with
coffee; and one for the sale
of brandy, wine, etc.; and numerous stools and
benches of palm-sticks
are set there. The favourite time of resort to this
place
is the evening; and many persons remain there for several hours
after sunset: some, all night. There are generally two or three
story-tellers there. At all hours of the day, and sometimes even
at
midnight, persons are seen bathing in the lake; chiefly men
and boys, but
also some young girls, and even women; the latter
of whom expose their
persons before the passengers and idlers
on the banks in a manner
surprising in a place where women in
general so carefully conceal even
their faces; though most of these

bathers are usually covered from
the waist downwards. It often
happens that persons are drowned here.
On the day after the cutting of the dam, the Munádee continues
to
repeat his first cry; but uses a different form of expression
in stating
the height of the river; saying, for instance,
“four from
sixteen;” meaning, that the river has increased four
“keeráts” (or digits) from sixteen cubits. This
cry he continues
until the day of the Nórooz, or a little
earlier.
On the “Nórooz,” or Coptic new-year's-day (10th
or 11th of
September), or two or three days before, he comes to each
house
in his district, with his boy dressed in his best clothes, and a
drummer and a hautboy-player; repeats the same cry as on the
Wefa; and
again receives a present. Afterwards he continues
his former cry.
On the day of the “Saleeb” (or the Discovery of the
Cross),
which is the 17th of the Coptic month of Toot, or 26th or 27th
of September, at which period the river has risen to its greatest
height,
or nearly so, he comes again to each house in his district,
and repeats the
following cry:—“In uncertainty,
1 thou wilt not
rest: nor in
comparing
2 wilt
thou rest. O my reproacher,
3 rest!
There is nothing that endureth! There remaineth nothing
[uncovered
by the water] but the shemmám
4 and lemmám
5 and the
sown
fields and the anemone and safflower and flax: and may
my master, such a
one [naming the master of the house], live,
and see that the river has
increased; and give, to the bringer of
good news, according to a just
judgment. Aboo-Raddád
6 is
entitled to a fee from the government; a fee
of a shereefee
7
for
every digit of the river's increase; and
we are
entitled to a fee
from the people of generosity; we come to take it with
good
behaviour. The fortunate Nile of Egypt hath taken leave of us
in
prosperity: in its increase, it hath irrigated all the
country.”—
The Munádee, on this occasion,
presents a few limes, and other
fruit, to the rich, or persons of middle
rank, and some lumps of
dry mud of the Nile, which is eaten by the women,
in many
families. He generally receives a present of two or three or
more piasters. His occupation then ceases until the next year.
1 Doubting whether the Nile will rise
sufficiently high.
2 That is, in comparing the height of the river
at a particular period in the
present year with its height at the same
period in preceding years.
3 O thou who hast said to me, “Why
dost thou not bring better news?”
6 The Sheykh of the Mikyás, or
Nilometer.
7 A gold coin, now become scarce. Its value, I
am informed, is about a
third of a pound sterling, or rather
less.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXVII.
PRIVATE FESTIVITIES, ETC.

As the modern Egyptian does not become a housekeeper until
he is married
(and not of necessity then; for he may live with
his
wife in the house of his or her parents), his first marriage is
generally
the first event which affords him and his wife an occasion
of calling
together their respective friends to a private entertainment.
Whenever a
great entertainment is given on any occasion
of rejoicing, it is customary,
for the persons invited, to send
presents (such as I have mentioned in
describing the ceremonies
attendant upon a marriage), a day or two before.
The husband
always has his separate party, generally in the lower apartment
or
apartments of the house; and the wife entertains her female
relations and friends in the hareem, or upper apartments. It
is also the
usual custom for the wife to entertain her guests
(among whom no males are
ever admitted, excepting very young
boys) during the six middle hours of
the day; and for the
husband to receive his guests afterwards; after
sunset, or after
the 'eshë prayers: but sometimes his guests
assemble while the
wife is engaged with her own party in the hareem.
On these occasions, the female singers who are called
“'Awálim” (or
“'A'l'mehs”) are often hired to amuse the
company.
They sit in one of the apartments of the hareem;
generally at a window
looking into the court. The wooden
lattice-work of the window, though too
close to allow them to
be seen by persons without, is sufficiently open to
let them be
distinctly heard by the male guests siting in the court or in
one
of the apartments which look into it. In many houses, there is
a
small elevated apartment, or closet, for the 'Awálim, which I
have before described, adjoining the apartment in which the
male guests
assemble (as well as another adjoining the principal
saloon of the hareem),
screened in front by wooden lattice-work,
to conceal these singers from the
view of the men.—The dancing-girls
(“Ghawázee,” or
“Gházeeyehs”) are also frequently hired to
attend on the occasions of private festivities. They dance (with
unveiled
face) before the men, in the court; so that they may be
seen also by the
women from the windows of the hareem: or
perform in an apartment in which
the men are assembled; or in
the street, before the house, for the
amusement only of the women.

When they or the 'Awálim
perform for the entertainment of a
party, one of the friends of the host
usually collects for them
small sums of money upon the tambourine, or in a
handkerchief,
from the guests: but sometimes, the host will not allow
this
custom to be observed. The contributions are called
“nukoot.”
It is the general practice for the person
who gives the entertainment
to engage the Ghawázee for a certain
sum: he receives the
nukoot; which may fall short of, or exceed, the
promised sum:
in the former case, he pays the difference from his own
purse:
in the later case, he often pockets the surplus. Or he agrees
that they shall receive all the nukoot, with, or without, an additional
sum
from himself. In some parties, where little decorum
is observed, the guests
dally and sport with these dancing-girls
in a very licentious manner. I
have before mentioned (in a
former chapter), that, on these occasions, they
are usually indulged
with brandy, or some other intoxicating liquor,
which
most of them drink to excess. It is a common custom for a man
to
wet, with his tongue, small gold coins, and stick them upon
the forehead,
cheeks, chin, and lips, of a Gházeeyeh. When
money is collected
for the 'Awálim, their servant, who is called
“khalboos,” and who often acts the part of a buffoon,
generally
calls out, at each contribution, “Shóbash
'aleyk yá sáheb elfarah!”
that is,
“A present is due from thee, O giver of the
entertainment [on a
similar occasion, and in the same way],”
1
and adds, “Such a one has given so many ‘mahboobs,'
or
‘kheyreeyehs'”—turning a few piasters
into a much larger number
of gold coins of considerably greater value; or,
if gold be
given exaggerating the sum in the same manner. This he does
to compliment the donor, and to stimulate the generosity of
others. His
mistress, or another of the 'Awálim, replies, “'Okba
le-'anduh!” (“May he have the like
[rejoicing]!”
2—or “May
he have a
recompense!”)—The guests are also often entertained
with a concert of instrumental and vocal music, by male performers
(“A'láteeyeh”), who sit in the court, or in the
apartment
in which the guests are assembled. Two
“dikkehs” (or high
wooden sofas) are often put
together, front to front, in the court,
1 “Shóbash” is
synonymous with “nukoot,” being an Arabic
corruption
of the Persian
“shábásh,” which also signifies
“well done!” “excellent!”
2 The phrase was thus written and explained to
me by a sheykh; but I
suspect it should be,
“Ikbál le-'anduh,” which is an expression
vularly used
to signify, “access to him,” and
would mean, in this case, “[May we have]
access to
him!”

and furnished with cushions, etc.,
to form an orchestra for the
musicians; and a lantern is usually placed in
the middle. The
A'láteeyeh generally receive contributions from
the assembly
for whose entertainment they perform, like the
'Awálim; their
khalboos calling out to them in the same manner
after each gift.
But performances of a different kind from those above mentioned
are more
common, and are considered more proper, on
the occasions of private
festivities. These are the recitations of
a “khatmeh”
(or of the whole of the Kur-án), by three or more
fikees, who
are hired for the purpose; or of a “zikr,” by a small
party of fakeers.
1
That the khatmeh may not be too fatiguing
to the performers, the fikees
relieve one another by turns; one
only chanting at a time; and each,
usually, chanting a ruba.
They generally come to the house a little after
the 'asr, and get
through the greater part of their task before the guests
assemble:
one of them then chants more leisurely, and in a more
musical
manner: after him, in the same manner, another; and so on.
Sometimes a khatmeh is performed in the day-tie, and after it,
in the
evening, a zikr. It is a rule that the zikr should always
be performed
after sunset.
1 These customs remind us of St. Paul's advice
to the Ephesians, chap. v.,
ver. 19; which shows the antiquity of
social pastimes of this kind. The
Egyptians highly enjoy the religious
love-songs of the munshids at zikrs.
In Egypt, persons who habitually live with the utmost frugality
prepare a
great variety and profusion of dishes for the entertainment
of their
friends. But very little time is devoted to eating.
The period of
conviviality is mostly passed in smoking, sipping
coffee, drinking sherbet,
and conversing: the Turks, however,
generally abstain from smoking during
the recitation of the
Kur-án; and the honour which they pay to
the sacred book on
every occasion has given rise to a saying, that
“God has exalted
A'l-'Osmán [
i.e. the race of 'Osmán, or the 'Osmánlees]
above
other Muslims, because they exalt the Kur-án more than
do
others.” In these parties, none of the guests ever attempts
to
amuse his companions, except by facetious conversation, or
sometimes
by telling a story; though all of them take great delight
in
the performances of the hired dancers, musicians, and singers.
The
Egyptians seldom play at any game, unless when only two
or three persons
meet together; or in the privacy of their own
families. They are a social
people; and yet they but rarely give
great entertainments. Festivities such
as I have described above
are very unfrequent: they occur only on
particular occasions

which really call for rejoicing.
Excepting on such occasions, it
is considered improper to hire
dancing-girls to perform in a house.
The marriage festivities I have described in a former chapter:
I therefore
proceed to give an account of the festivities which
follow a marriage; and shall do so in the order of their
occurrence.
On the seventh day (“Yóm es-Subooa”
1) after a marriage,
the
wife receives her female relations and friends during the morning
and afternoon; and sometimes, the husband entertains his own
friends in the
evening; generally hiring persons to perform a
khatmeh or a zikr. It is a
custom of husbands in Egypt to deny
themselves their conjugal right during
the first week after the
conclusion of the marriage with a virgin bride;
and the termination
of this period is a due cause for rejoicing.
2—On the
fortieth
day (“Yóm el-Arba'een”) after the
marriage, the wife goes, with
a party of her female friends, to the bath.
Her companions
return with her to her house, about the 'asr; partake of a
repast,
and go away. The husband, also, sometimes receives visitors in
the evening of this day, and again causes a khatmeh or zikr to
be
performed.
1 The Subooa after the birth of a child is
celebrated with more rejoicing;
and therefore, in speaking of the
Yóm es-Subooa, the seventh day after child-birth
is
generally understood.
2 It was not such a festival as this alone that
is alluded to in Genesis
xxix. 27, and in Judges xiv. 12. It was, and I
believe is still, the custom of
wealthy Bedawees (and such was Laban)
to feast their friends seven-days after
marriage (as also after the
birth of a male child); and every respectable
Muslim, after marriage,
if disappointed in the expectations he has been led
to form of his
wife, abstains from putting her away for about a week, that she
may not
be disgraced by suspicion; particularly if it be her first marriage.
The next festivities in a family are generally those consequent
on the birth
of a child.—Two or three or more days before the
expected time
of delivery, the “dáyeh” (or midwife) conveys,
to
the house of the woman who requires her assistance, the
“kursee
el-wiládeh,” a chair of a peculiar
form, upon which the patient is
to be seated during the birth.
3 This chair is covered
with a
shawl, or an embroidered napkin; and some flowers of the
henna-tree, or some roses, are tied, with an embroidered handkerchief,
to
each of the upper corners of the back. Thus ornamented,
the chair (which is
the property of the dáyeh) is conveyed
before her to the
house.—In the houses of the rich, and of those
in easy
circumstances, the mother, after delivery, is placed on a

bed, and usually remains on it from
three to six days: but poor
women, in the same case, seldom take to a bed
at all; and after
a day or two, resume their ordinary occupations, if not
requiring
great exertion.
On the morning after the birth, two or three of the dancing-men
called
Khäwals, or two or three Gházeeyehs, dance in front
of the house, or in the court.—The festivities occasioned by the
birth of a son are always greater than those on account of a
daughter. The
Arabs still show relics of that feeling which often
induced their ancient
ancestors to destroy their female offspring.
A few days after the birth, generally on the fourth or fifth
day, the women
of the house, if the family be of the middle or
wealthy classes, usually
prepare dishes of “mufattak'ah,”
“kishk,”
“libábeh,”
and “hilbeh;” which they send to the female relations
and friends. The first of these consists of honey with a little
clarified
butter and oil of sesame, and a variety of aromatics and
spices pounded
together: roasted hazel-nuts are also added to it.
1
The kishk has been described in a former page.
2 The libábeh is
composed
of broken or crumbled bread, honey, clarified butter,
and a little
rose-water: the butter is first put into a saucepan
over the fire; then,
the broken bread; and next, the honey. The
dish of hilbeh (or fenugreek) is
prepared from the dry grain
boiled, and then sweetened with honey over the
fire.
1 Some women add another ingredient; not when it
is to be sent to
friends; but for a particular purpose, which is, to
make them fat: they broil
and mash up a number of beetles in the
butter; and then add the honey, etc.
This has been alluded to in the
chapter on the Domestic Life of the Women.
2 In a note to the second paragraph of the
preceding chapter.
On the “Yóm es-Subooa” (or Seventh Day) after
the birth of
a child, the female friends of its mother pay her a visit. In
the
families of the higher classes, 'Awálim was hired to sing in
the
hareem; or A'láteeyeh perform, or fikees recite a
khatmeh,
below. The mother, attended by the dáyeh, sits on the
kursee
el-wiládeh, in the hope that she may soon have occasion
for it
again; for her doing this is considered propitious. The child
is
brought, wrapped in a handsome shawl, or something costly; and,
to
accustom it to noise, that it may not be frightened afterwards
by the
music, and other sounds of mirth, one of the women takes
a brass mortar,
and strikes it repeatedly with the pestle, as if
pounding. After this, the
child is put into a sieve, and shaken;
it being supposed that this
operation is beneficial to its stomach.
Next, it is carried through all the
apartments of the hareem,

accompanied by several women or
girls; each of whom bears a
number of wax candles, sometimes of various
colours, cut in two,
lighted, and stuck into small lumps of paste of henna,
upon a
small round tray. At the same time, the dáyeh, or
another
female, sprinkles, upon the floor of each room, a mixture of
salt
and seed of the fennel-flower, or salt alone, which has been
placed during the preceding night at the infant's head; saying,
as she does
this, “The salt be in the eye of the person who doth
not bless
the Prophet!” or, “The foul salt be in the eye of the
envier!” This ceremony of the sprinkling of salt is considered
a
preservative, for the child and mother, from the evil eye:
and each person
present should say, “O God, favour our lord
Mohammad!” The child, wrapped up, and placed on a fine
mattress,
which is sometimes laid on a silver tray, is shown to
each of the women
present, who looks at its face, says, “O God,
favour our lord
Mohammad! God give thee long life!” etc., and
usually puts an
embroidered handkerchief, with a gold coin (if
pretty or old, the more
esteemed) tied up in one of the corners,
on the child's head, or by its
side. This giving of handkerchiefs
is considered as imposing a debt, to be
repaid by the mother, if
the donor should give her the same occasion; or as
the discharge
of a debt for a similar offering. The coins are generally
used,
for some years, to decorate the head-dress of the child. After
these nukoot for the child, others are given for the dáyeh.
During the night before the subooa, a water-bottle full of water
(a
dórak in the case of a boy, or a kulleh in that of a girl), with
an embroidered handkerchief tied round the neck, is placed at
the child's
head, while it sleeps. This, with the water it contains,
the
dáyeh takes, and puts upon a tray, and presents to
each of the
women; who put their nukoot for her (merely
money) into the
tray.—In the evening, the husband generally
entertains a party
of his friends, in the manner usual on other
occasions of private
festivity.
During a certain period after childbirth (in most cases, among
the people of
Cairo, forty days, but differing according to circumstances,
and according
to the doctrines of the different sects), the
mother is regarded as
religiously impure.
1
The period here mentioned
is called
“Nifás.” At the expiration of it, the woman
goes
to the bath.
1 In like manner, the Jewish law pronounces a
woman unclean during forty
days after the birth of a male child; but
double that time after bearing a female
child. See Leviticus xii. 2, 4,
5.
The ceremonies and festivities attendant upon the
circumcision
of a boy are the next that I shall describe.—In most cases,
the
boy about to be circumcised (who is called
“muttáhir”) is paraded
through the streets
in the manner which has been related in a
former chapter; that is, if his
parents be of the middle or higher
class of citizens: but most of the
learned, people of religious professions,
fikees, and some rich men in
Cairo, prefer performing
a ceremony called
“Siráfeh,” of which the following account
will
convey a sufficient notion.
The schoolfellows of the muttáhir, all dressed in their best
clothes, or in borrowed clothes if they have none of their own
good enough,
which is generally the case, repair, a little before
noon, to one of the
principal mosques, as that of the Hasaneyn,
or the Azhar, or that of the
seyyideh Zeyneb. Thither also go the
men and the women and many of the
female friends of the family
of the muttáhir, with the
muttáhir himself; and sometimes about
six sháweeshes
(or sergeants) of the Nakeeb el-Ashráf. The
barber who is to
perform the operation also attends, with a servant
bearing his
“heml” (or sing), which has been described in the
account of the more common ceremonies of circumcision. All
these persons,
with some others who will presently be mentioned,
having assembled in the
mosque, wait there until after the noon-prayers,
and then depart in
procession through the streets to the
house of the muttáhir's
parents. The first person in the procession
is the barber's servant, with
his heml. He is sometimes
followed by five or six fikees, chanting a lyric
ode (“muweshshah”)
in praise of the Prophet. Then
follow the schoolboys,
two, three, or four abreast. The foremost of these
boys, or half
their number, chant, as they pass
along,—“O nights of pleasure!
O nights of
joy!”—The other boys then take up the strain,
adding,—
“Pleasure and desire, with friends
assembled!”—Then,
again, the
former,—“Favour, O our Lord, the Perspicuous
Light!”—then the latter, “Ahmad,
1 the Elect, the
chief of
Apostles!”—Thus the boys continue to chant
the whole of the
way. Behind them walk the male relations of the
muttáhir.
These are followed by about six boys; three of them
bearing
each a silver scent-bottle (“kumkum”) full of
rose-water or
orange-flower-water, which they occasionally sprinkle on some
of
the spectators; and each of the others bearing a silver
perfuming-vessel
(“mibkhar'ah”) in which benzoin,
frankincense, or some
other odoriferous substance, is burning. With these
boys walks
1 A name of the Arabian Prophet.

a sakka, bearing, on his back, a
skin of water covered with an embroidered
napkin: he gives water, now and
then, in brass cups,
to passengers in the street. Next follow three
servants: one of
these carries a silver pot of coffee, in a silver
“'áz'kee” (or chafing-dish
suspended by
three chains): another bears a silver tray,
with ten or eleven coffee-cups,
and “zarfs” of silver: the third
carries nothing; it
is his office, when the procession passes by a
well-dressed person (one
sitting at a shop, for instance), to fill,
and present to him, a cup of
coffee: the person thus honoured
gives the servant something in return:
half a piaster is considered
amply sufficient. The sháweeshes
occupy the next place in the
order of the procession. Sometimes they are
followed by another
group of boys with kumkums and mibkhar'ahs. Net follows
a
boy bearing the writing tablet of the muttáhir, hung to his
neck by
a handkerchief: it is ornamented for the occasion by the
schoolmaster.
Behind the boy who bears it walks the muttáhir,
between
two others. He is dressed either as in the zeffeh before
described
(that is, in girl's clothes, with the exception of the turban,
and
decked with women's ornaments), or simply as a boy; and holds
a
folded embroidered handkerchief to his mouth. The women
follow him, raising
their shrill cries of joy (the “zagháreet”);
and
one of them is constantly employed in sprinkling salt behind
him,
to prevent any ill effects from an evil eye, which, it is
thought, some
person may cast at the lad from envy. In this
order and manner, the
procession arrives at the house.—On halting
before the door, the
foremost of the schoolboys sing,—“Thou
art a sun!
Thou art a light above light!”—
The others
add,—“O Mohammad! O my friend! O thou with
black
eyes!”—They enter the house repeating this address to
the
Prophet; and repeat it again after entering. The young boys go
upstairs: the other remain below. The former, as they go up,
repeat,—“O thou his paternal aunt! O thou his maternal
aunt!
Come! prepare his siráfeh.”—On
entering the “ká'h,” or principal
apartment of the hareem, a Kashmeer shawl is given them
to hold: they hold
it all round; and the ornamented writing-tablet
is placed in the middle of
it. The “'areef,” or head boy of the
school, who
(together with the muttáhir and the women) stands
by while they
do this, then recites what is termed “khutbet
essiráfeh:
each clause of this is chanted by him first, and then
repeated
by the other boys. It is in unmeasured rhyme; and to the
following effect:—
“Praise be to God, the Mighty Creator!—the Sole, the
Forgiver,

the Conservator!—He
knoweth the past and futurity,—and
veileth things in
obscurity.—He knoweth the tread of the black
ant,—and
its work when in darkness vigilant.—He formed and
exalted
heaven's vault,—and spread the earth o'er the ocean salt.
—May He grant this boy long life and happiness,—to read
the
Kur-án with attentiveness;—to read the
Kur-án, and history's
pages,—the stories of ancient
and modern ages.—This youth has
learned to write and
read,—to spell, and cast up accounts with
speed:—his
father, therefore, should not withhold—a reward of
money, silver
and gold.—Of my learning, O father, thou hast paid
the
price:—God give thee a place in Paradise:—and thou,
my
mother, my thanks receive—for thine anxious care of me,
morn
and eve:—God grant I may see thee in Paradise
seated,—and
by Maryam
1 and Zeyneb
2 and Fátimeh
3 greeted.—Our fakeeh
4
has taught us the alphabet:—may he have every grateful
epithet.
—Our fakeeh has taught us as far as ‘The
News:'
5—may he
never his present blessings lose.—Our
fakeeh has taught us as far
as ‘The Dominion:'—may he
ever be blest with the world's good
opinion.—Our fakeeh has
taught us as far as ‘The Compassionate:'—may
he ever
enjoy rewards proportionate.—Our
fakeeh has taught us as far as
‘Yá-Seen:'—may his days and
years be ever
serene.—Our fakeeh has taught as far as ‘The
Cave:'—may he ever the blessings of Providence
have.—Our
fakeeh has taught us as far as ‘The
Cattle:'—may he ne'er be
the subject of scandalous
tattle.—Our fakeeh has taught us as far
as ‘The
Cow:'—may he ever be honoured, in future and now.—
Our fakeeh amply merits of you—a coat of green, and a turban
too.—O ye surrounding virgin lasses!—I commend you to
God's
care by the eye-paint and the glasses!
6—O ye married ladies
here
collected!—I pray, by the Chapter of ‘The
Ranks,'
7 that ye
be
protected!—O ye old women standing about!—Ye ought
to be
beaten with old shoes, and turned out!—To old women,
however,
we should rather say—Take the basin and ewer; wash
and
pray.”
2 The daughter of the Imám 'Alee.
3 The daughter of the Prophet.
5 This and the following words distinguished by
inverted commas are the
titles of chapters of the Kur-án,
which the boys, as I have mentioned on a
former occasion, learn in the
reverse order of their arrangement, after having
learned the first
chapter. The chapter of “The News,” is the 78th: the
others,
afterwards named, are the 67th, 55th, 36th, 18th, 6th, and 2nd.
6 The looking-glasses. This is said to amuse the
ladies.
7 The 37th chapter of the
Kur-án.

During the chanting of these absurd expressions, the women
drop, upon the
ornamented writing-tablet, their nukoot; which
are afterwards collected in
a handkerchief. The boys then go
down, and give the nukoot to the fikee
below.
1—Here, the muttáhir
is now placed on a seat.
The barber stands on one side of
him, and the servant who holds the heml on
the other. The
heml is rested on the floor; and on the top of it is placed
a cup,
into which the guests put their nukoot for the
barber.—The
female visitors dine in the hareem; and then leave
the house.
The boys dine below; and go to their homes. The men also
dine; and all of them, excepting those of the family, and the
barber and
his servant, take their leave. The barber then conducts
the
muttáhir, with one or two of his male relations, to a
private
apartment; and there performs the operation; or sometimes
this is done on
the following day. About a week after, he
takes the boy to the bath.
1 What follows this describes the ceremonies
which are performed both after
the siráfeh and after the
more common zeffeh, of which I have given an account
in a former
chapter.
The next occasion of festivity in a family (if not the marriage
of a son or
daughter) is generally when a son is admitted a
member of some body of
tradesmen or artisans. On this occasion,
a ceremony which I am about to
describe is performed in certain
cases; but not on admission to every
trade: it is customary
only among carpenters, turners, barbers, tailors,
book-binders,
and a few others. The young man having become an adept
in
the business of his intended trade, his father goes to the sheykh
of that trade, and signifies his wish that his son should be admitted
a
member. The sheykh sends an officer, called the “nakeeb,”
to
invite the masters of the trade, and sometimes a few friends of
the
candidate, to be present at the admission. The nakeeb,
taking in his hand a
bunch of sprigs of any green herb, or flowers,
goes to each of these
persons, hands to him a sprig or little piece
of green, or a flower, or
leaf, and says—“For the Prophet, the
Fát'hah:”—that is “Repeat the
Fát'hah for the Prophet.” Both
having done this
together, the nakeeb adds,—“On such a day
and hour,
come to such a house or place, and drink a cup of
coffee.”—The guests thus invited meet (generally at the
house of
the father of the young man, but sometimes in the country),
take
coffee, and dine. After this, the nakeeb leads the young man
before the sheykh: states his qualifications; and then desires the
persons
present to recite the Fát'hah for the Prophet; which

done, he girds the young man with a
shawl over his outer coat;
and ties a knot with the ends of this girdle.
The Fát'hah is then
recited again, generally for the seyyid
El-Bedawee, or some other
great saint; and a second knot is tied. Then, a
third time the
Fát'hah is recited; and a bow is tied. The young
man is thus
completely admitted. He kisses the hand of the sheykh, and
that
of his fellow-tradesmen; and gives the nakeeb a small
fee.—This
ceremony is called “shedd
el-weled” (the binding of the youth),
and the person thus
admitted is termed “meshdood,” or bound.
There remain only to be described the ceremonies occasioned
by a death.
These will be the subject of a separate chapter, here
following, and
concluding my account of the manners and customs
of the Muslims of
Egypt.
[Back to top]
CHAPTER XXVIII.
DEATH, AND FUNERAL RITES.
When a learned or pious Muslim feels that he is about
to die, he
sometimes performs the ordinary ablution, as before prayer,
that
he may depart from life in a state of bodily purity; and
generally
he repeats the profession of the faith, “There is no
deity
but God: Mohammad is God's Apostle.” It is common,
also,
for a Muslim, on a military expedition, or during a long
journey,
especially in the desert, to carry his grave-linen with him.
Not
unfrequently does it happen that a traveller, in such
circumstances,
has even to make his own grave: completely overcome by
fatigue
or privation, or sinking under a fatal disease, in the desert,
when
his companions, if he have any, cannot wait for his recovery or
death, he performs the ablution (with water, if possible, or, if not,
with
sand or dust, which is allowable in such case), and then,
having made a
trench in the sand, as his grave, lies down in it,
wrapped in his
grave-clothes, and covers himself, with the exception
of his face, with the
sand taken up in making the trench;
thus he waits for death to relieve him,
trusting to the wind to
complete his burial.
When any one of the eminent 'Ulama of
Cairo dies, the muëddins
of
the Azhar, and those of several other mosques, announce
the event by
chanting from the mád'nehs the cry called the

“Abrár;” the words of which I have given in the
account of the
customs observed during Ramadán, in the second of
the chapters
on periodical public festivals, etc.
The ceremonies attendant upon death and burial are nearly the
same in the
cases of men and women. When the rattles in the
throat, or other symptoms,
show that a man is at the point of
death, an attendant (his wife, or some
other person) turns him
round to place his face in the direction of
Mekkeh,
1 and
closes
his eyes. Even before the spirit has departed, or the moment
after, the male attendants generally exclaim, “Alláh!
There is
no strength nor power but in God! To God we belong; and
to
Him we must return! God have mercy on him!” while the
women of
the family raise the cries of lamentation called
“welwel'eh”
or
“wilwál;” uttering the most piercing shrieks,
and
calling upon the name of the deceased. The most common cries
that
are heard on the death of the master of a family, from the lips
of his
wife, or wives, and children, are “O my master!”
“O my
camel!” (that is, “O thou who
broughtest my provisions, and
hast carried my burdens,”)
“O my lion!” “O camel of the
house!” “O my glory!” “O my
resource!” “O my father!”
“O my
misfortune!”—The clothes of the deceased are taken
off
as soon as he has ceased to breathe; and he is attired in another
suit, placed on his bed or mattress, and covered over with a sheet.
The
women continue their lamentations; and many of the females
of the
neighbourhood, hearing the conclamation, come to unite
with them in this
melancholy task. Generally, also, the family of
the deceased send for two
or more “neddábehs” (or public wailing
women
2); but some
personss disapprove of this custom; and
many, to avoid unnecessary expense,
do not conform with it.
Each neddábeh brings with her a
“tár” (or tambourine), which
is without
the tinkling plates of metal which are attached to the
hoop of the common
tár. The neddábehs, beating their társ,
exclaim,
several times, “Alas for
him!”—and praise his turban, his
handsome person,
etc.; and the female relations, domestics, and
friends of the deceased
(with their tresses dishevelled, and sometimes
with rent clothes), beating
their own faces, cry in like
manner, “Alas for
him!”—This wailing is generally continued at
least an
hour.
1 Some Muslims turn the head of the corpse in the direction of Mekk h;
others, the right side, inclining the face
in that direction: the latter, I believe,
is the general custom.
2 See 2 Chron, xxxv. 25; Jer. ix. 17; and Matt.
ix. 23.
If the death took place in the morning, the corpse is buried the
same
day;
1 but if it
happened in the afternoon, or at night, the
deceased is not buried until
the following day: in this case, the
neddábehs remain all the
night, and continue the lamentation
with the other women; and a fikee is
brought to the house to
recite chapters of the Kur-án during the
night; or several fikees
are employed to perform a complete khatmeh.
1 The Egyptians have a superstitious objection
to keep a corpse in the house
during the night after the death, and to
burying the dead after sunset; but the
latter is sometimes done: I have
witnessed one instance of it.
The “mughassil” (or washer of the dead) soon comes, with
a
bench, upon which he places the corpse, and a bier.
2 The
fikees who
are to take part in the funeral procession (if the deceased
were a person
of respectable rank, or of the middle order)
are also now brought to the
house. These, during the process
of washing, sit in an apartment adjoining
that in which the corpse
is placed, or without the door of the latter
apartment; and some
of them recite, or rather chant, the “Soorat
el-An'ám” (or 6th
chapter of the Kur-án):
others of them chant part of the “Burdeh,”
a
celebrated poem in praise of the Prophet. The washer
takes off the clothes
of the deceased, which are his perquisite. The
jaw is bound up; and the
eyes are closed. The ordinary ablution
preparatory to prayer having been
performed upon the corpse, with
the exception of the washing of the mouth
and nose, the whole
body is well washed, from head to foot, with warm water
and soap,
and with “leef” (or fibres of the
palm-tree); or, more properly,
with water in which some leaves of the
lote-tree (“nabk,” or
“sidr”)
have been boiled.
3 The
nostrils, ears, etc., are stuffed
with cotton; and the corpse is sprinkled
with a mixture of water,
pounded camphor, and dried and pounded leaves of
the nabk,
and with rose-water. Sometimes, other dried and pounded
leaves
are added to those of the nabk. The ankles are bound together,
and the hands placed upon the breast.
2 It is hardly necessary to state that the
corpse of a female is always washed
by a woman.
3 The leaves of the lote-tree, dried and
pulverized, are often used by the
poor instead of soap.
The “kefen,” or grave-clothing, of a poor man consists of
a
piece or two of cotton;
4 or is merely a kind of bag. The corpse
of a man
of wealth is generally wrapped first in muslin, then in
cotton cloth of
thicker texture; next, in a piece of striped stuff of
4 The kefen is often sprinkled with water from
the well of Zemzem, in the
Temple of Mekkeh.

silk and cotton intermixed, or in a
kuftán of similar stuff, merely
stitched together; and over
these is wrapped a Kashmeer shawl.
The corpse of a woman of middling rank
is usually clothed with
a yelek. The colours most approved for the
grave-clothes are
white and green; but any colour is used, excepting blue,
or what
approaches to blue.—The body, prepared for interment, as
above
described, is placed in the bier, which is usually covered over
with a red or other Kashmeer shawl. The persons who are to
compose the
funeral-procession then arrange themselves in order.
—The more
common funeral-processions may be thus described.
The first persons are about six or more poor men, called
“Yemeneeyeh;”
mostly blind, who proceed two and two,
or three and
three, together. Walking at a moderate pace, or rather
slowly,
they chant incessantly, in a melancholy tone, the profession
of
faith (“There is no deity but God: Mohammad is God's
Apostle:
God favour and preserve him!”); as
follows:—

or
sometimes other words. They are followed by some male
relations and friends
of the deceased, and, in many cases, by two
or more persons of some sect of
darweeshes, bearing the flags of
their order. This is a general custom at
the funeral of a darweesh.
Next follow three or four or more schoolboys;
one of whom
carries a “mus-haf” (or copy of the
Kur-án), or a volume consisting
of one of the thirty sections of
the Kur-án, placed upon a
kind of desk formed of palm-sticks,
and covered over, generally
with an embroidered kerchief. These boys chant,
in a higher and
livelier voice than the Yemeneeyeh, usually some words of a
poem

FUNERAL PROCESSION.

called the
“Hashreeyeh,” descriptive of the events of the last
day,
the judgment, etc.; to the air here noted.

1
1 “'A-l-'ebád”
is a vulgar contraction, for
“'ala-l-'ebád.”—It will be
observed
(from the specimen here given, in the first two lines) that
this poem is
not in the literary dialect of
Arabic.
The following is a translation of the commencement of this
poem:—
“[I extol] the perfection of Him who hath
created whatever hath form;
And subdued His servants by death:
Who bringeth to nought [all] His creatures, with
mankind:
They shall all lie in the graves:
The perfection of the Lord of the east:
2
2 Literally, “the two
easts,” or “the two places of
sunrise:” the point
where the sun rises in
summer, and that where it rises in winter.
The perfection of the Lord of the west:
3
3 Or, “the two places of
sunset.”
The perfection of the illuminator of the two lights;
The sun, to wit, and the moon:
His perfection: how bountiful is He!
His perfection: how clement is He!
His perfection: how great is He!
When a servant rebelleth against Him, He
protecteth.”
The school-boys immediately precede the bier, which is borne
head-foremost. Three or four friends of the deceased usually
carry it for a
short distance: then three or four other friends bear
it a little farther;
and then these are in like manner relieved.
Casual passengers also often
take part in this service, which is
esteemed highly meritorious. Behind the
bier walk the female
mourners; sometimes a group of more than a dozen, or
twenty;
with their hair dishevelled, though generally concealed by the
head-veil; crying and shrieking, as before described; and often the
hired
mourners accompany them, celebrating the praises of the
deceased. Among the
women, the relations and domestics of the
deceased are each distinguished
by a strip of linen or cotton stuff

or muslin, generally blue, bound
round the head, and tied in a
single knot behind, the ends hanging down a
few inches.
1
Each
of these also carries a handkerchief, usually dyed blue; which
she sometimes holds over her shoulders, and at other times twirls
with both
hands over her head, or before her face. The cries of
the women, the lively
chanting of the youths, and the deep tones
uttered by the Yemeneeyeh,
compose a strange discord.
1 In the funeral scenes represented on the walls
of ancient Egyptian tombs,
we often see females with a similar bandage
round the head.
The wailing of women at funerals was forbidden by the Prophet;
and so, also,
was the celebration of the virtues of the
deceased. Mohammad declared, that
the virtues thus ascribed to
a dead person would be subjects of reproach to
him, if he did
not possess them, in a future state. It is astonishing to
see how
some of the precepts of the Prophet are every day violated by
all
classes of the modern Muslims; the Wahhábees alone
excepted.—
I have sometimes seen mourning women of the lower
classes,
following a bier, having their faces (which were bare), and
their
head-coverings and bosoms, besmeared with mud.
2
2 This was a custom of the ancient Egyptians: it
is described by Herodotus,
lib. ii., cap. 85.—Passengers in
the streets and roads, when a corpse is
borne by to the tomb, often
say,—“God is most great! God is most great!
That
is what God and his Apostle have promised: and God and his Apostle
have
spoken truth. O God, increase our faith and
submission!”—The women,
pointing with the finger
at the bier, say,—“I testify that there is no deity
but
God.”
The funeral-procession of a man of wealth, or of a person of
the middle
classes, is sometimes preceded by three or four or
more camels, bearing
bread and water to give to the poor at the
tomb; and is composed of a more
numerous and varied assemblage
of persons. The foremost of these are the
Yemeneeyeh,
who chant the profession of the faith, as described above.
They
are generally followed by some male friends of the deceased, and
some learned and devout persons who have been invited to attend
the
funeral. Next follows a group of four or more fikees, chanting
the
“Soorat el-An'ám” (the 6th chapter of the
Kur-án); and
sometimes, another group, chanting the
“Soorat Yá-Seen” (the
36th chapter);
another, chanting the “Soorat el-Kahf” (the 18th
chapter); and another, chanting the “Soorat
ed-Dukhán” (the
44th chapter). These are followed by
some munshids, singing
the “Burdeh;” and these by
certain persons called “As-háb
el-Ahzáb,” who are members of religious orders founded by
celebrated
sheykhs. There are generally four or more of the order

of the Hezb
es-Sádát; a similar group of the Hezb
Esh-Sházilee;
and another of the Hezb Esh-Shaaráwee:
each group chants a
particular form of prayer. After them are generally
borne two or
more half-furled flags, the banners of one or other of the
principal
orders of darweeshes. Then follow the schoolboys, the bier,
and
the female mourners, as in the procession before described;
and,
perhaps, the led horses of the bearers, if these be men of
rank. A buffalo,
to be sacrificed at the tomb, where its flesh is
to be distributed to the
poor, sometimes closes the procession.
The funeral of a devout sheykh, or of one of the great 'Ulama,
is still more
numerously attended; and the bier of such a person
is not covered with a
shawl. A “welee” is further honoured in
his funeral
by a remarkable custom. Women follow his bier; but,
instead of wailing, as
they would after the corpse of an ordinary
mortal, they rend the air with
the shrill and quavering cries of
joy called
“zagháreet;” and if these cries are
discontinued but
for a minute, the bearers of the bier protest that they
cannot proceed;
that a supernatural power rivets them to the spot on
which
they stand. Very often, it is said, a welee impels the bearers of
his
corpse to a particular spot.—The following anecdote,
describing
an ingenious mode of puzzling a dead saint in a case of this
kind,
was related to me by one of my friends.—Some men were
lately
bearing the corpse of a welee to a tomb prepared for it in the
great cemetery on the north of the metropolis; but, on arriving at
the gate
called Báb en-Nasr, which leads to this cemetery, they
found
themselves unable to proceed farther from the cause above
mentioned.
“It seems,” said one of the bearers, “that
the
sheykh is determined not to be buried in the cemetery of Báb
en-Nasr:
and what shall we do?” They were all much
perplexed:
but being as obstinate as the saint himself, they did not
immediately
yield to his caprice. Retreating a few paces, and then
advancing
with a quick step, they thought, by such an impetus, to
force
the corpse through the gateway; but their efforts were
unsuccessful;
and the same experiment they repeated in vain several
times.
They then placed the bier on the ground to rest and consult;
and
one of them, beckoning away his comrades to a distance beyond
the
hearing of the dead saint, said to them, “Let us take up the
bier again, and turn it round quickly several times till the sheykh
becomes
giddy; he then will not know in what direction we are
going, and we may
take him easily through the gate.” This they
did; the saint was
puzzled as they expected; and quietly buried
in the place which he had so
striven to avoid.

The biers used for the conveyance of the corpses of females
and boys are
different from those of men. They are furnished
with a cover of wood, over
which a shawl is spread, as over the
bier of a man; and at the head is an
upright piece of wood, called
a “sháhid.”
The sháhid is covered with a shawl; and to the
upper part of it,
when the bier is used to convey the body of a
female of the middle or
higher class, several ornaments of female
head-dress are attached: on the
top, which is flat and circular, is
often placed a
“kurs” (the round ornament of gold or silver set
with
diamonds, or of embossed gold, which is worn on the crown
of the
head-dress): to the back is suspended the “safa” (or
a
number of braids of black silk with gold ornaments along each,
which
are worn by the ladies, in addition to their plaits of hair,
hanging down
the back). The bier of a boy is distinguished by
a turban, generally formed
of a red Kashmeer shawl, wound round
the top of the sháhid;
which, in the case of a young boy, is also
often decorated with the kurs
and safa. The corpse of a very
young child is carried to the tomb in the
arms of a man, and
merely covered with a shawl; or, in a very small bier
borne on a
man's head.
In the funerals of females and boys, the bier is usually only
preceded by
the Yemeneeyeh, chanting the profession of faith,
and by some male
relations of the deceased; and followed by the
female mourners; unless the
deceased were of a family of wealth,
or of considerable station in the
world; in which case, the funeral-procession
is distinguished by some
additional display. I shall
give a short description of one of the most
genteel and decorous
funerals of this kind that I have witnessed: it was
that of a young,
unmarried lady.—Two men, each bearing a large,
furled, green
flag, headed the procession, preceding the Yemeneeyeh,
who
chanted in an unusually low and solemn manner. These fakeers,
who
were in number about eight, were followed by a group of
fikees, chanting a
chapter of the Kur-án. Next after the latter
was a man bearing a
large branch of “nabk” (or lote-tree), an
emblem of
the deceased.
1 On
each side of him walked a person
bearing a tall staff or cane, to the top
of which were attached
several hoops ornamented with strips of
various-coloured paper.
These were followed by two Turkish soldiers, side
by side; one
bearing, on a small round tray, a gilt silver
“kumkum” of rosewater;
and the other bearing, on a
similar tray, a “mibkhar'ah”
of gilt silver, in which
some odoriferous substance (as benzoin, or
1 This is only borne in funerals of young
persons.

frankincense) was burning. These
vessels diffused the odour of
their contents on the way; and were
afterwards used to perfume
the sepulchral vault. Passengers were
occasionally sprinkled
with the rose-water. Next followed four men, each of
whom bore,
upon a small tray, several small lighted tapers of wax, stuck
in
lumps of paste of “henna.” The bier was covered
with rich
shawls; and its sháhid was decorated with handsome
ornaments
of the head; having, besides the safa, a “kussah
almás” (a long
ornament of gold and diamonds, worn
over the forehead), and,
upon its flat top, a rich diamond kurs. These were
the jewels of
the deceased; or were perhaps, as is often the case, borrowed
for
the occasion. The female mourners, in number about seven or
eight,
clad in the usual manner of the ladies of Egypt (with the
black silk
covering, etc.), followed the bier, not on foot, as is the
common custom in
funerals in this country, but mounted on high-saddled
asses; and only the
last two or three of them were wailing;
these being, probably, hired
mourners.—In another funeral-procession
of a female, the
daughter of a Turk of high rank, the
Yemeneeyeh were followed by six black
slaves, walking two by
two. The first two slaves bore each a silver kumkum
of rose-water,
which they sprinkled on the passengers; and one of them
honoured me so profusely as to wet my dress very uncomfortably;
after
which, he poured a small quantity into my hands; and I
wetted my face with
it, according to custom. Each of the next
two bore a silver mibkhar'ah,
with perfume; and the other two
carried each a silver 'áz'kee
(or hanging censer), with burning
charcoal and frankincense. The jewels on
the sháhid of the bier
were of a costly description. Eleven
ladies, mounted on high-saddled
asses, together with several
neddábehs, followed.
The rites and ceremonies performed in the mosque, and at the
tomb, and after
the funeral, remain to be described.—If the
deceased died in any
of the northern quarters of the metropolis,
the body is usually carried, in
preference, to the mosque of the
Hasaneyn; unless he were a poor man, not
residing near to that
venerated sanctuary; in which case, his friends
generally carry
his corpse to any neighbouring mosque, to save time, and
avoid
unnecessary expense. If he were one of the 'ulama (that is,
of a
learned profession, however humble), his corpse is usually
taken to the
great mosque El-Azhar. The people of the southern
parts of the metropolis
generally carry their dead to the mosque
of the seyyideh Zeyneb, or to that
of any other celebrated saint.
The reason of choosing such mosques in
preference to others, is

the belief that the prayers offered
up at the tombs of very holy
persons are especially successful.
The bier, being brought into the mosque, is laid upon the floor,
in the
usual place of prayer, with the right side towards the
kibleh, or the
direction of Mekkeh. The “Imám” of the
mosque
stands before the left side of the bier, facing it and the
kibleh;
and a servant of the mosque, as a “muballigh”
(to repeat the
words of the Imám), at the feet. The attendants
of the funeral
range themselves behind the Imám; the women
standing apart,
behind the men; for on this occasion they are seldom
excluded
from the mosque. The congregation being thus disposed, the
Imám commences the prayer over the dead; prefacing it with
these
words:
1—“I purpose reciting the prayer of four
‘tekbeers,'
2
the funeral-prayer, over the deceased Muslim here
present:”—or
—“the deceased
Muslims here present:” for two or more corpses
are often prayed
over at the same time. Having said this, he
exclaims (raising his open
hands on each side of his head, and
touching the lobes of his ears with the
extremities of his thumbs),
“God is most great!” The
muballigh repeats this exclamation;
and each individual of the congregation
behind the Imám does
the same; as they also do after the
subsequent tekbeers. The
Imám then recites the
Fát'hah; and a second time exclaims,
“God is most
great!” after which he adds, “O God, favour our
lord
Mohammad, the Illiterate Prophet, and his Family and
Companions, and
preserve them”—and the third time exclaims,
“God is most great!” He then says, “O God,
verily this is
thy servant and son of Thy servant: he hath departed from
the
repose of the world, and from its amplitude,
3 and from whatever
he loved, and
from those by whom he was loved in it, to the
darkness of the grave, and to
what he experienceth. He did
testify that there is no deity but Thou alone:
that Thou hast
no companion: and that Mohammad is thy servant and
thine
apostle; and Thou art all-knowing respecting him. O God, he
hath
gone to abide with Thee; and Thou art the best with whom
to abide. He hath
become in need of Thy mercy; and Thou
hast no need of his punishment. We
have come to Thee, supplicating
that we may intercede for him. O God, if he
were a doer
1 I give the form of prayer used by the
Sháfe'ees, as being the most common
in Cairo. Those of the
other sects are nearly similar to this.
2 A “tekbeer” has been
explained in a former chapter, as being the exclamation
of
“Alláhu Akbar” or “God is most
great!”
3 Or, according to one of my sheykhs,
“its business.”

of good, over-reckon his good
deeds; and if he were an evil-doer,
pass over his evil doings; and of Thy
mercy grant that he may
experience Thine acceptance; and spare him the
trial of the
grave, and its torment; and make his grave wide to him;
and
keep back the earth from his sides;
1 and of Thy mercy grant
that he
may experience security from Thy torment, until Thou
send him safely to Thy
Paradise, O Thou most merciful of those
who show mercy!” Then,
for the fourth and last time, the
Imám exclaims, “God
is most great!”—adding.—“O God,
deny
us not our reward for him [for the service we have done him];
and
lead us not into trial after him: pardon us and him and all
the Muslims, O
Lord of all creatures!”—Thus he finishes his
prayer;
greeting the angels on his right and left with the salutation
of
“Peace be on you, and the mercy of God;” as is done
at
the close of the ordinary prayers. Then, addressing the persons
present, he says, “Give your testimony respecting him.”
They
reply, “He was of the virtuous.”—The
bier is now taken up; and
if it be in the mosque of the Hasaneyn, or in
that of any other
celebrated saint, that the prayer has been performed, it
is placed
before the “maksoorah” (the screen or
railing that surrounds the
sepulchral monument or cenotaph). Here, some of
the fikees
and others who have attended the funeral recite the
Fát'hah, and
the last three verses of the “Soorat
el-Bakarah (or and chapter of
the Kur-án); beginning,
“Whatever is in heaven and on earth is
God's.”—These rites performed, the funeral-train proceeds
with
the corpse, in the same order as before, to the burial-ground.
2
1 It is believed that the body of the wicked is
painfully oppressed by the
earth against its sides in the grave; though
this is always made hollow.
2 The burial-grounds of Cairo are mostly outside
the town, in the desert tracts
on the north, east, and south. Those
within the town are few, and not extensive.
Here I must give a short description of a tomb.—It is an
oblong
vault, having an arched roof; and is generally constructed
of brick, and
plastered. It is made hollow, in order that the
person or persons buried in
it may be able with ease to sit up
when visited and examined by the two
angels, “Munkar” (vulgarly
“Nákir”) and “Nekeer.”
One side faces the direction of
Mekkeh; that is, the south-east. At the
foot, which is to the
north-east, is the entrance; before which is
constructed a small
square cell, roofed with stones extending from side to
side, to
prevent the earth from entering the vault. This is covered
over
with earth. The vault is generally made large enough to contain
four or more bodies. It males and females be buried in the same

vault, which is not commonly the
case, a partition is built to
separate the corpses of one sex from those of
the other. Over
the vault is constructed an oblong monument (called
“tarkeebeh”),
of stone or brick, with a stela, or
upright stone (called
a “sháhid”), at the
head and foot. The stelae are mostly plain;
but some of them are
ornamented; and that at the head is often
inscribed with a text from the
Kur-án,
1 and the name of the
deceased, with the date of his death. A
turban, cap, or other
head-dress, is also sometimes carved on the top of
the head-stone;
showing the rank or class of the person or persons buried
in the
tomb.—Over the grave of an eminent sheykh, or other
person of
note, a small square building, crowned with a cupola, is
generally
erected.
2 Many of the tombs of Turkish and Memlook grandees
have marble
tarkeebehs, which are canopied by cupolas supported
by four columns of
marble; and have inscriptions in gilt letters
upon a ground of azure on the
head-stone. There are numerous
tombs of this description in the great
southern cemetery of
Cairo.
The tombs of the Sultáns are mostly
handsome mosques: some of
these are within the metropolis; and some, in the
cemeteries in
its environs.—I now resume the description of the
funeral.
1 The Prophet forbade engraving the name of God,
or any words of the
Kur-án, upon a tomb. He also directed
that tombs should be low, and built
only of crude bricks.
2 Like that seen in the distance in the
engraving here inserted.
The tomb having been opened before the arrival of the corpse,
no delay takes
place in the burial. The sexton and two assistants
take the corpse out of
the bier, and deposit it in the vault. Its
bandages are untied; and it is
laid upon its right side, or so
inclined that the face is towards Mekkeh.
It is supported in
this position by a few crude bricks. If the outer
wrapper be a
Kashmeer shawl, this is rent; lest its value should tempt
any
profane person to violate the tomb. A little earth is gently
placed by and upon the corpse, by one or more persons: and
the entrance is
closed by replacing the roofing-stones and earth
over the small cell before
it. But one singular ceremony remains
to be performed, excepting in the
case of a young child, who is
not held responsible for his actions: a fikee
is employed to
perform the office of a “mulakkin” (or
instructor of the dead):
3
sitting before the tomb, he says generally as
follows:—“O servant
of God! O son of a handmaid of
God! know that, at this time,
there will come down to thee two angels
commissioned respecting
3 The Málikees disapprove of this
custom, the “talkeen” of the dead.

thee and the like of thee: when
they say to thee, ‘Who is thy
Lord,' answer them,
‘God is my Lord,' in truth; and when they
ask thee concerning
thy Prophet, or the man who hath been sent
unto you, say to them,
‘Mohammad is the Apostle of God,' with
veracity; and when they
ask thee concerning thy religion, say to
them,
‘El-Islám is my religion;' and when they ask thee
concerning
thy book of direction, say to them, ‘The
Kurán is my book
of direction, and the Muslims are my brothers;'
and when they
ask thee concerning thy Kibleh, say to them, ‘The
Kaabeh is my
Kibleh; and I have lived and died in the assertion, that there
is
no deity but God, and Mohammad is God's Apostle:' and they
will
say, ‘Sleep, O servant of God, in the protection of
God.”'—
The soul is believed to remain with the body
during the first
night after the burial; and on this night to be visited
and examined,
and perhaps the body tortured, by the two angels above
mentioned.—The Yemeneeyeh and other persons hired to attend
the
funeral are paid at the tomb: the former usually receive a
piaster each. If
the funeral be that of a person of rank or wealth,
two or three skins of
water, and as many camel-loads of bread,
being conveyed to the burial
ground, as before mentioned, are
there distributed, after the burial, to
the poor, who flock thither
in great numbers, on such an occasion. It has
also been mentioned
that a buffalo is sometimes slaughtered, and its flesh
in
like manner distributed. This custom is called
“el-kaffárah” (or
the expiation): being
supposed to expiate some of the minor sins
of the deceased; but not great
sins. The funeral ended, each of
the near relations of the deceased is
greeted with a prayer that he
may be happily compensated for his loss; or
is congratulated that
his life is prolonged.
The first night after the burial is called “Leylet
el-Wahsheh”
(or the Night of Desolation); the place of the
deceased being
then left desolate. On this night the following custom is
observed:—
At sunset, two or three fikees are brought to the
house:
they take a repast of bread and milk in the place where the
deceased
died; and then recite the “Soorat el-Mulk”
(or 67th chapter
of the Kur-án). As the soul is believed to
remain with the body
during the first night after the burial, and then to
depart to the
place appointed for the residence of good souls until the
last day,
or to the appointed prison in which wicked souls await their
final
doom, this night is also called “Leylet
el-Wahdeh” (or the Night
of Solitude).
1
1 The opinions of the Muslims respecting the
state of souls in the interval
between death and the judgment are thus
given by Sale (“Preliminary Discourse,”
sect.
iv.):—“They distinguish the souls of the faithful into
three
classes: the first, of prophets, whose souls are admitted into
paradise immediately;
the second, of martyrs, whose spirits, according
to a tradition of Mohammad,
rest in the crops of green birds, which eat
of the fruits and drink of the
rivers of paradise; and the third, of
other believers, concerning the state of
whose souls before the
resurrection there are various opinions. For, 1. Some
say that they
stay near the sepulchres, with liberty, however, of going where-ever
they please; which they confirm from Mohammad's manner of saluting
them
at their graves, and his affirming that the dead heard those salutations
as
well as the living. Whence perhaps proceeded the custom of visiting
the tombs
of relations, so common among the Mohammadans. 2. Others
imagine they
are with Adam in the lowest heaven, and also support their
opinion by the authority
of their prophet, who gave out that in his
return from the upper heavens
in his pretended night-journey, he saw
there the souls of those who were destined
to paradise on the right
hand of Adam, and those who were condemned
to hell on his left. 3.
Others fancy the souls of believers remain in the well
Zemzem, and
those of infidels in a certain well in the province of
Hadramót,
called Barahoot [so in the Kámoos, but
by Sale written Borhût]; but this
opinion is branded as
heretical. 4. Others say they stay near the graves for
seven days; but
that whither they go afterwards is uncertain. 5. Others, that
they are
all in the trumpet, whose sound is to raise the dead. And, 6. Others,
that the souls of the good dwell in the forms of white birds, under the
throne
of God. As to the condition of the souls of the wicked, besides
the opinions
that have been already mentioned, the more orthodox hold
that they are offered
by the angels to heaven, from whence being
repulsed as stinking and filthy, they
are offered to the earth; and
being also refused a place there, are carried down
to the seventh
earth, and thrown into a dungeon, which they call Sijjeen,
under a
green rock, or, according to a tradition of Mohammad, under the devil's
jaw, to be there tormented till they are called up to be joined again to
their
bodies.” I believe that the opinion respecting the
Well of Barahoot commonly
prevails in the present day.

Another ceremony, called that of the “Sebhah” (or Rosary),
is
performed on this occasion, to facilitate the entrance of the
deceased
into a state of happiness: it usually occupies three or four
hours. After the “'eshë” (or nightfall), some
fikees, sometimes
as many as fifty, assemble in the house; or, if there be
not a
court, or large apartment, for their reception, some matting is
spread for them to sit upon in front of the house. One of them
brings a
sebhah composed of a thousand beads; each about the
size of a pigeon's egg.
They commence the ceremony by reciting
the “Soorat
el-Mulk” (mentioned above); then say three times,
“God is one.” After this they recite the
“Soorat el-Falak” (or
last chapter but one of the
Kur-án), and the opening chapter (the
“Fát'hah”); and then three times say,
“O God, favour, with the
most excellent favour, the most happy
of thy creatures, our lord
Mohammad, and his Family and Companions, and
preserve

them:” to which they
add, “All who commemorate Thee are
the mindful; and those who
omit commemorating Thee are the
negligent.” They next repeat,
thrice one thousand times, “There
is no deity but
God;” one of them holding the sebhah, and counting
each
repetition of these words by passing a bead through his
fingers. After each
thousand repetitions they sometimes rest and
take coffee. Having completed
the last thousand, and rested,
and refreshed themselves, they say, a
hundred times, “[I extol]
the perfection of God, with his
praise:” then, the same number
of times, “I beg
forgiveness of God, the Great:” after which
they say, fifty
times, “[I extol] the perfection of the Lord, the
Eternal—the perfection of God, the Eternal:” they then
repeat
these words of the Kur-án—“[Extol]
the perfection of thy Lord,
the Lord of Might; exempting Him from that
which they [namely,
Christians and others] ascribe to Him [that is, from
the having a
son, or partaker of his godhead]; and peace be on the
Apostles;
and praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures!”
1 Two or three
or more of them then recite, each, an “'ashr,” or about
two or
three verses of the Kur-án. This done, one of them asks
his companions,
“Have ye transferred [the merit of] what ye have
recited
to the soul of the deceased?” They reply, “We
have transferred
it;” and add, “And peace be on the
Apostles,” etc., as above.
This concludes the ceremony of the
sebhah, which, in the houses
of the rich, is also repeated on the second
and third nights. This
ceremony is likewise performed in a family on their
receiving
intelligence of the death of a near relation.
1 Chapter xxxvii., last three verses.
The men make no alteration in their dress in token of mourning;
nor do the
women on the death of an elderly man; but they
do for others. In the latter
cases, they dye their shirts, head-veils,
face-veils, and handkerchiefs, of
a blue, or of an almost black,
colour, with indigo; and some of them, with
the same dye, stain
their hands and their arms as high as the elbow; and
smear the
walls of the chambers. When the master of the house, or the
owner of the furniture, is dead, and sometimes in other cases,
they also
turn upside-down the carpets, mats, cushions, and
covering of the
deewáns. In general, the women, while in
mourning, leave their
hair unbraided, cease to wear some of their
ornaments, and, if they smoke,
use common reed pipes.
Towards the close of the first Thursday after the funeral, and
often, early
in the morning of this day, the women of the family
of the deceased again
commence a wailing, in their house, accompanied

by some of their female friends;
and in the afternoon or
evening of this day, male friends of the deceased
also visit the
house; and three or four fikees are employed to perform a
khatmeh.—On
the Friday morning the women repair to the
tomb;
where they observe the same customs which I have described in
speaking of the ceremonies performed on the two grand
“'eeds,”
in the second of the chapters on periodical
public festivals, etc.;
generally taking a palm-branch, to break up, and
place on the
tomb; and some cakes or bread, to distribute to the poor.
These
ceremonies are repeated on the same days of the next two
weeks;
and again, on the Thursday and Friday which complete,
or next follow, the
first period of forty days
1 after the funeral:
whence this Friday is called
“el-Arba'-een,” or “Gum'at
el-Arba'-'een.”
It is customary among the peasants of
Upper Egypt for the
female relations
and friends of a person deceased to meet together
by his house on each of
the first three days after the funeral, and
there to perform a lamentation
and a strange kind of dance. They
daub their faces and bosoms, and part of
their dress, with mud;
and tie a rope girdle, generally made of the coarse
grass called
“halfa,” round the waist.
2 Each flourishes in
her hand a palm-stick,
or a nebboot (a long staff), or a spear, or a drawn
sword;
and dances with a slow movement, and in an irregular manner;
generally pacing about, and raising and depressing the body. This
dance is
continued for an hour or more; and is performed twice
or three times in the
course of the day. After the third day, the
women visit the tomb, and place
upon it their rope-girdles; and
usually a lamb, or a goat, is slain there,
as an expiatory sacrifice,
and a feast made, on this occasion.
2 As the ancient Egyptian women did in the same
case.—See a passage in
Herodotus, before referred to, lib.
ii., cap. 85.
Having now described the manners and customs of the Muslims
of Egypt in the
various stages and circumstances of life, from the
period of infancy to the
tomb, I close my account of them, as a
writer of their own nation would in
a similar case, with “thanks
and praise to Him who dieth
not.”
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