Travel journal of Kezia Payne DePelchin, 1881-1882 [Digital Version]

12

[July 2, 1881, Embarking on the Biafra for Great Britain]

I embarked on the Biafra for Madeira July. 29. Saturday.
11 AM. reached Madeira Aug 5 Friday. — The Biafra, is a
steamer of the African Line. I only knew, from various sources, that
I could take first class passage cheaper, from Liverpool, than
from London; therefore changed my plans, after I had written to
M ^r. Sachtlebers to tell him I should call on him in London. In Liverpool
I wrote him a postal telling of my intentions. I was very anxious to see London,
the native city of my dear mother, but as I prayed so earnestly for direction
I felt that God heard and answered my prayers. I found I had a week
or more. M ^r. Sinclair was very polite, he complimented my bravery in coming so
far alone, and as I do not profess to be above flattery, I suppose that had
some effect on me. I paid my visit to Scotland, and returned in time for
the Biafra. The ladiesRegularized:ladies' cabin was different to that of the Egypt. it was
a large room with berths all round it. M ^rs. Simmonds going to
meet her husband, was the only lady besides myself. Harry her
little boy, was with her. The Stewardess, M^rs. O'Neal was very kind to
us. The first two days wasRegularized:were rough. and I was seasick. our other passengers
were two young Spaniards going home for the holidays to Teneriffe.
One Doctor bound to Sierra Leone; a trader to BasseuRegularized:Bissau,
with the trader, M ^r. Hill I conversed. he looked sickly, but,
he was intelligent. the Doctor was polite and two young
Spaniards, were seasick. I got almost out of patience
with one of them, he said the same thing over so often._
I find I still lack patience; The brothers were twins one
was studying for a priest, the other a merchant. The priest was very

13

fond of hearing me say anything about America. _ he was
lonesome. he did not fancy the company of the older men. and
he liked to talk with the ladies. Saturday or Sunday, is the
day the African Steamers generally, come into port. _
But the Biafra made a quick run. The Captain fixed Friday
as our landing day. I remarked, I should not be surprised if
it was Saturday. The young Spaniard, asked me to bet I said
"no" it was "not my custom to bet," but just to be contrary I
kept to Saturday; Finally I agreed to send M ^r Renshaw a bunch
of grapes if we came in on Friday. and he was to send me
a canary bird from its native island if we were delayed until
Saturday. I arrived in time for me to pay the grapes, which I sent off or rather Martha
did for me. though I never knew positively if he received them. The ships
in Funchal Bay, _cast anchor; but do not come near the shore. _ I was very
much afraid of going down the ladder into the boat, the Captain kindly helped
me down and then I enjoyed the row, _ the surf boats are run on
shore: and while the surf recedes, the passengers jump out. I remem
beredRegularized:remembered that from my childhood. My nephew Joey came on board to take man
ifestRegularized:manifest, and Martha came for me. how glad I was to see them. my sister's
children, how pretty they looked to me._ an ox carro was waiting to
take us up to the Torrinha, my sister's Quinta. The landing on the
beach is exciting, and then the ride up the Praya, its avenue
lined with magnificent trees. Many things in that ride were
familiar, and many improvements. the Telegraph Office. The Police
Station, were new; My sister's Quinta is beautiful, her eldest daughter

14

Emma received me. at the gate, and I can hardly express my de-
lightRegularized:delight at the beautiful garden. _ Soon I went up to see my sister. She
looked much younger than I expected, and it was long before I
could recognize in her, or she in me, the sister of other days. Here
She was her children devoted to her. Her faithful servant Matilda to
wait on her._ anRegularized:and I came from such a distance to see her, but she
helpless, in a manner. At my first arrival here I was amused to
find her friends, and her Doctor, feared the consequences of the excitement.
But I do not think it did her any harm, on the contrary I think she is
benefited, for some time, then she got worse._ I will now look back to the
time when we left Madeira for New York, in 1836 Sept. 24. we went in
a Sail vessel Brig Chilhi Capt Hill. his wife was with him, were out
72 days, went down near the West Indies. found it excessively hot. now the
trip from N.Y. to Liverpool was made in 11. days. and from Liverpool to
Funchal in 6, or less. and these not the quickest trips on record._ then we went
from Philadelphia to New Orleans in 3 weeks by sail and a large vessel._
from New Orleans to Galveston one week. now I crossed in 18 hours._
from Houston New Orleans._ from thence to Philadelphia in 4 ^days less._
as I stopped over one day in Lynchburg, 1 day in Washington, how
times have changed, or rather speed._ therefore I wish we
could in view of this. always respect the Sabbath more, and
as we are so much quicker that, the seventh could be as a
day of rest to man and beast._ I will recall one little
incident going to Dunfermline. I was on the train 4 PM._
two old ladies in the car. M ^rs. Stirton bid me goodbye, gave
me my ticket. ^{One of} said old ladies ScotchRegularized:Scottish the other Irish, ScotchRegularized:Scottish,
to me, You be noo going to Dumfaleen tonight? Yes ma'am.

15

I replied, that is what my ticket says. Its la ScotchRegularized:Scottish L. ItsRegularized:It's late.
if you be alone. , I expect friends there I said. ScotchRegularized:Scottish, You
be from Glasgow? That is where the train started from?.
I said. Irish. L. Oh be letting the lady go her ways._
itsRegularized:it's naught to you or me. if she goes to Dumfermline
tonight, the ScotchRegularized:Scottish woman looked not quite pleased, both
soon got out. Two other ladies were very polite, and at Dun-
fermlineRegularized:Dunfermline , showed me the way to M ^r. Morrison an old lady
with them paid it a boy a penny to guide me._ of my adven-
turesRegularized:adventures in Scotland I think I will write under _cities.
One incident I forgot in its proper place. When we were off Queenstown, we were
all anxious to hear the news from the President: He's doing well" was received with a shout
and waving of hats & handkerchiefs, a man with newspapers came on board,
and sold them at ridiculous prices. to one the news was not quite news.
but he perused it faithfully to find it July, 9 18, 1880. one year old.
^{I did not leave all the yankees behind me"} "all the yankees are not in America," exclaimed the sold man, who
came from Nantucket. I experienced the same in Liverpool, a boy came
on board with papers. I took up an London 'ill. News paid 8 dpennies for
it, found it was two months old._ & should have cost 6 dpennies.

16

[Houston to New Orleans]

I passed through several embryo cities on my way from Hous-
tonRegularized:Houston to New Orleans. Lake Charles. noted for its Lumber. also Beaumont.
Orange for trees of that name._ New Orleans was changed in appearance,
from the city I remember in my younger days. _ then it was slavery times.
now it had a business look, in spite of the war._ the officials where
I bought my ticket , & and checked my luggage, were polite, the old time
Southern politeness; I got a cup of coffee, and was back in time for the train.
We sped along. _ it was hot and dusty, along the pine forests of Mississippi & Alabama
& we passed through some cities, rapidly. at night M^rs. McIlhenny left me, and
the first place I stopped at was Lynchburg VAVirginia. ^{at eleven next day,} I felt my head throb, so
went to a hotel, a large rambling affair. a large fat colored woman
gave me a room, that had been a parlor. I only wanted coffee.
and a chance to take a good wash off of the dust of Alabama and
not off my feet but my neck. I laid down, I got up. I walked, I
rode in street cars, but the head ache got worse. _ here I first saw
some cherries. I bought them eat as I went along. I saw some chil-
drenRegularized:children playing party, gave them some, they thought it was wonderful.
What looked wonderful to me, was the way the street cars and wagons went
up and down the steep hills. _ This city was beautiful, in the afternoon
I went over to a dry goods store and bought a linen duster
and some collars. the lady who served me was quite interested
when she found where I came from and whither bound. She
said she envied me, but oh how homesick I felt, even
then. The train had come and gone. I found there was
another going out in the night, the fat old woman
promised to call me; in time, I went to the Office paid my bill.

16a

I was ^not anxious to have Hancock elected because he was on
the court martial that condemned M^rs. Surratt.
Garfield was welcomed by the South. _ M^r. Werlienen
his sermon to young men held him up as a model.
that was when he was first elected._
I liked M^rs. Hayes for her temperance principles

17

The clerk, asked me if I knew Major Crank, in Houston. _
I told him I was acquainted with his wife, and promised
to write to her and enclose his card. that card I then put away. —
and, when I wanted to write to M^rs. Crank, I could not find it. —

[Baltimore and Washington DC]

I started at about 12 Midnight, and arrived in Washington City,
in the morning. I had my satchel_ &c. I found myself at the
Baltimore & Potomac depot since rendered so memorable by the
shooting of President Garfield. _ no forebodings of that sad event
marred my pleasure. I left my valise with the guard. I took some refresh-
mentRegularized:refreshment, and, sallied forth. _ My first visit was through the ^public gardens. _
there were the wild flowers of Texas. I felt like the Arab who embraced
the Palm tree in Jardin des Plantes, Paris. and recognized in the
stately tree an old friend, so I felt about the little Texas wild flowers. —
I walked through the grounds then to the Capitol, where the assem-
bledRegularized:assembled wis-dom ^{of the nations} is supposed to meet. _ As I approached, what I after-
wardsRegularized:afterwards found was the back of the building. the a neatly dressed
man asked me if I wished to see the diferentRegularized:different points of interest.
Of course I did! he then took me round, and showed me,
the front also the most attractive buildings, among others
he pointed the jail where, M^rs. Surratt, was hung for supposed
complicity with the murder of ^Pres President Lincoln. I remarked The Ameri-
canRegularized:American nation, should be ashamed of that; about here My
guide told me he was a guide, and hinted at payment
he said there were 4 others inside who would show me
over the building. I asked him his fee 50. ^cts.cents and paid it. at that
rate my Capitol visit alone would be $2.50._ I went up the,

18

long flights of steps, was surprised to find them of wood. —
the guide told me, the marble steps became so slippery in freezing
weather they were covered with wood. _ to preserve not them, but the
feet of the Senators from slipping. I entered the hall, went into
the halls of representatives & Senate. the roof was decorated with
the coat of arms of each State, the portraits of great men —
hung in a long gallery. — up further a picture at-
tractedRegularized:attracted me, the emigrants westward the star of em-
pireRegularized:empire_ guides the way; how natural that picture was. the
covered wagon, the mother & children, the boys, the young
man sick & drooping on the arm of a stronger man. _
I climbed up the steps, thought I should have to give up going any fur-
therRegularized:further, when a party came up. (before this a young gentleman had assisted
me up part of the way.) they were very polite; helped me up to the
top. the view was worth it all, below the streets centering at the
Capitol. like the sticks of an open fan; the cars and carri-
agesRegularized:carriages travelling over them, looked like insects, crawling along. —
we waited awhile some few of the young folks wrote their names, but we older
ones did not. _ it was enough for me I had seen it. I was tired when I reached the
last stair; I wandered about, took some dinner at my depôt restaurant,
and again went forth. _ I visited the Navy Yard, Smithsonian,
and the White House. This I only went into the hall and one
room. What struck me most was the chandeliers, and the
fine view from the window. I walked along, thinking
of many things, the frontier life I had led, the old world,

20

Where I was going to; ¹⁵I went out into the grounds and was dictating
a letter to some one in Texas, in which I said beware of nice looking young
gentlemen, in white vests, for they are guides, that look at you for 50. ^cts.cents and
then I plumed my self for the way in which I was going to get round, by my self. —
a man came up to me, wanted to show me round. I said "no I can go by
my self._" I looked at him he was not nice looking and had his coat but
tonnedRegularized:buttoned up so I did not see if he had a vest. I had just then to go
out of one gate and enter another in the White House grounds. _ That
fellow pestered me, to go to the arsenal. I would not. Said it was too
hot, then he pointed out the monument. he showed me a shady
path to where I was going, then he turned round, said "you was at the
Capitol this morning and gave that guide 50 ^cts.cents . I am man with a large
family can't you spare me a quarter?" I was vexed and amused. _
gave him his quarter & went my way, crestfallen. I went when quite
late to see if I could find Col.Colonel De. & tell him his little daughter
sent him a message. _ he had left Washington; I left Washington
on the ten o'clock train, took a sleeper, and went to sleep, found
I could stay in the car until seven in the morning. Then the
porter very politely showed me to the freight depôt_ There my
visit to Washington was ended. I took tea at the depôt restaurant,
I only spent I think 60 ^cts.cents . besides guides. I visited besides the
places mentioned, the Patent Office, saw many curious things.
the regalia or dress of Washington. I spent a delightful
day; Washington is a beautiful city, ^{on the Potomac}. its streets are wide. —
its gardens fine. no fences. around the public walks. _
all seemed free. but there was no rudeness. _ Will

21

this be changed, by this deed of the miserable assassin. God
grant that it may be better, not worse; Poor Garfield. an nation
mourned for him, and much rancor was forgiven, and forgotten,
on hearing of his death. I know I felt a sympathy with the whole nation,
and kept my first day to my self, although a week later than the rest,—
but it made me feel better; How often have I thought of M^rs. Garfield and
her children, also his mother, poor old lady. how proud she must have been
of her son, to see him stricken down so. Sympathy may alleviate
for a time, but that heavy cross must be borne, through a lifetime. —
M^r. Arthur appears to have been improved by the very poor opinion
people seemed to have of him. it is as well to see ourselves as others
see us, and it shows wisdom to profit by it. Many here are astonished
at the length of Guiteau's trial. It is human nature. At. M^rs.
Surratt's trial, it was too hasty, the whole nation condemned
it. Booth was killed, therefore vengeance had to be wreaked
on some one. then the war was just over passions were inflamed
and anger was not satisfied. We read that Gen.General Garfield did what
he could to stem the tide of fanaticism, now if as Hancock was on
that court martial that sentenced M^rs. Surratt, if he had been
President, and been shot, I for one would have thought it
a judgement on him, but as Job's comforters were re-
provedRegularized:reproved for that same spirit. it shows me that God's ways
are not our ways. His thoughts not our thoughts; Fearing to
hang a madman. the court has had patience, and that
is the beauty of Garfield's character, at no time have we
heard any expression of revenge uttered by any of them._

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[Philadelphia, New Jersey and New York]

Of M^r. Garfield's household. _ These reflections naturally follow on the
visit to Washington. I arrived in Philadelphia, by 7. AM. The
Officer at the depôt was polite. I went with all my packages to the street
car depôt. I tried to get a cup of coffee but failed in that. I went on
to the Ferry, there I had to take my baggage again, it had not arrived.
The Officer was positively rude; I asked if my baggage had come.
do you see it? ^rudely, was the reply; "No sir, I said." ^{but felt angry} being alone. I had to
carry my packages and found them cumbersome, after some waiting
I got my trunks; I think that official had had no breakfast or
something was the matter with him. of my trip I wrote in travel. _
Beverly a town in New Jersey on the Delaware, is where my cousin
lived. it is a beautiful little place, the out of town residence, of many
who do business in the city; In summer this is well, but in win-
terRegularized:Winter the short days make it anything but desirable. to be fro-
zenRegularized:frozen out of home. I was delighted, with the place, but I had
sent my boxes on to New York and felt obliged to look af-
terRegularized:after them; trains pass Beverly every hour. _ and 20 minminutes
is the time from the city. The tall Silver Maple trees,
are magnificent, put me in mind of the pecan trees in
San Antonio. The houses along the bank of the river were
the prettiest, here I heard the cat bird: I thought it was
a lost kitten, my cousin let me look for it awhile, then
told me what it was; I also saw a Japanese cat. _
a cat without a tail; at first I thought it was a dog. _
but such a queer looking dog; I asked the children who

23

were playing with it, what it was; I found that a man named
Richardson had bought them one cat, firm that there were several._
Some had short tails, but all were called Richardson's cats. I found
afterwards that Manx cats or those from the Isle of Man are also
tailless; I made several trips to Philadelphia, and must not leave the impres-
sionRegularized:impression of rudeness to all Philadelphia people, because I was very kindly treated.
I went to 32 NorthN 4^th Street and found my correspondents. Messrs B &
H Wright. M^r. Benj.Benjamin Wright exacted a promise that I would go to his house,
& both expressed a wish that I would they could do something for me. _
I also found Charley Stone, married and in business. I was going
to a restaurant, but Charley would not let me, and his wife had
to get me some refreshment. I found Mary Stevenson there, to be
under the Doctor's care; how pale and feeble she looked. her little
Mary was a lovely child. At one time it was thought advis-
ableRegularized:advisable to send her across the Atlantic but the Doctor said no.
she could not stand it. Mary, was Elizabeth Stone's child, and
I loved her for her mother's sake: as well as her own. I went to see
Hattie, Mary's sister. She lived in a pretty neighborhood.
Spring garden Street. We drove out to the Centennial
grounds, and very quiet they looked. to what they did
then; Next day I went to see M^rs. Winch's Aunt. She was glad
to see me, and then I went to find M^rs. B Wright. I knocked
no answer, and I must say, I was just a little timid at in-
troducingRegularized:introducing myself to a strange lady; I found afterwards she had
just steptRegularized:stepped out: a minute, I did ^not wait as long as I ought to have

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I went next day to see a Miss . _ cousin of M^r WrightsRegularized:Wright's.
and his grandmother on Brown St._ They were glad to see
me and I took lunch with them; M^rs. Saterlee one of the cousins had
a sweet little baby, and her husband was in Arabia, collecting kid
skins; what commerce every branch of industry gives rise to. The old
lady was glad to talk with me about her grandson; The way I became ac-
quaintedRegularized:acquainted with them, was a brother Silas Wright was sick in a hospital.
in Houston; I visited there weekly, and when he died, I wrote to his bro-
thersRegularized:brothers. I had him buried in our lot, by permission of M^r. Maris, and like
bread cast on the waters, it was returned to me a stranger in
this city, truly God's promises are true, and I wish we could all
lay hold of them; and take all the comfort out of them we ought
to, how much trouble we would save ourselves. I also called on Schefer
& Coradi. M^r. Schaefer I found was dead. M^r. Coradi gave me
a book to read on my trip, I found it very amusing. —
They have over head railways in PhilPhiladelphia . but I did not see them.
Sunday I was in Beverly; went with cousin Will to the little
neat church there; I went to speak to the agent of the Inman
Line; he was determined I should take passage with them. _
but the price was very high, he proposed steerage as being
preferable in that line to Saloon in another, but that
I did not believe: there fore we did not come to terms.
The agent in PhilPhiladelphia . said some pretty hard things about
the Anchor Line; on which I said I was going. _
Philadelphia the city of W^m.William Penn the Quaker is situated on the
Delaware at its confluence with the SchulkyllRegularized:Schuylkill . _ It is a very pretty. _

25

City. Its ^open squares. of ^{grass &} trees and benches for the sick & the weary. _
These parks are like lungs to the city . supply it with air. _
are a benefit to all concerned. Penn was a Quaker, and his
City keeps much of his plainess and comfort. the meeting
houses occupy beautiful spots of ground, squares, planted with
soft grass, and shaded with grand old trees. The plainly dressed
quakers meet there Sunday and Thursday. _ they sit quietly for a-
bout half and hour (then if the spirit moves any one to speak they do so.
no Spirit stirred them to speak when I was there.) then they got up shook
hands with one another in silence the men who had kept their hats
on filed out first, then the women: no singing no loud praying.
collection nor sound of any kind. I saw one child who stretched himself
out on a bench and went to sleep. I heard the Quakers had Sunday School
I suppose they taught them "little children must be seen and not heard" The
business of Philadelphia does not equal that of New York; but there are
none if any tenement houses. a home like air prevails. quaker is not the
prevailing religion, there are all denominations, and I visited churches on
my trip to the Centennial which I am not describing now. Therefore
will proceed to New York and Brooklyn. _ I had my ticket to Brooklyn
Annex, that took me, all right, for changing baggage, is the greatest
trouble in travelling: I arrived in Brooklyn, on, Thursday, July 1. I went
straight to M^rs. Moores, how pleasant it is to have a friend's house
to go to, to feel welcome; I was fatigued and low spirited at
the idea of going further from my old home; I rested that day
Friday I think we went out, and on Saturday, we trudged

26

round. We went to the Marine Exchange in New York. _
Ascertained no vessels went to Madeira direct. I went to
the Anchor Line found their vessels went to London and Glasgow.
I knew the Liverpool Steamers went to Madeira direct at less cost
than the London and the expense was so heavy. I went to the
National Line they went to Liverpool only one berth $70. I
tried another Line for 55, but that sailed next day. ¹⁷. Then I returned to
the National, the berth was gone, but I know ships like omnibusses are Indian rubber
arrangements, and always have room for one more; well they had a berth made, as so
many were going to Europe, and, I could have one, for $60., the same saloon privileges.
I was delighted, I liked the plan of the Ship. If the Anchor Line could have
cashed my check I think I should have taken it, it was fortunate for me
they did not, as it was better for me to go to Liverpool than either
Glasgow or London. I got my boxes on as freight. _ once on board, I
found my berth changed to 47, a very good, one, as the made berths
were taken by a party; Saturday Morning we were out, and I think took my
berth. On the way home, we noticed some excitement on the streets. One
man was selling extras, he called out a lot of stuff, it might be English, it
might be something else; I passed on. M^rs. Moore thought it was some politics,
and on we went. _ Arrived at home. M^rs. Moore's daughters asked us if we had
heard the news, no! what? Why the President is shot. It Is it Conkling? was
the first exclaimationRegularized:exclamation; I what it was all the world knows by this time,
but the free expressions about M^r. Arthur have had a salutary effect. _ on
him; We thought ^all the Nihilists ^were across the water, and here without
warning; in time of profound peace a Good man is shot. down.
How much thought it has given rise to; Some of the suggestions

27

were as follows. That the President should have a body guard. _ then
that the Presidents on retiring from Office, should have a sufficient,
armament to keep them Independent, hereafter. _ but I think all these
ideas will give way, as not compatible with republican idea government. _
It is well not to meddle with other governments, as for instance the Irish,
Heph Help them once on the shores of America but the giving money to fight
England with is wrong; the barbarous way they are at it now; Saturday After
noon. I went up to see M^r John Shearn's family, found them all sick ex-
ceptRegularized:except Alice. Little Annie who had been a cripple was straightened, M^rs.
Shearn was sick, and M^r. S.Shearn tired out. They soon left for home, and little
Annie died, after bearing patiently, the long tedious illness. _ The
crowd around the Herald Office, was tremendous, omnibusses could
not get through without policemen w making way; The reports were conflict-
ingRegularized:conflicting, of the President, but M^r. H. M^rs. Moore's soninlawRegularized:son-in-law said from what he heard
it would ^be impossible for the President to recover, he might live some
time; which opinion was correct. _ Sunday, we attended church at D^r
Hall's church Brooklyn it was a fine edifice, and the sermon was
much on the misfortune befallen the nation; one thing I noticed
the preacher said while we prayed for the President, not to
forget the miserable man who caused it. M^r H [...] told us of the
sermon he heard. Life being a surprise. The nation was at peace, and
this was a surprise, and so on to watch for ye know not what hour
the son of man cometh; That day I took communion the last
in America for that year. _ In the evening we went to hear
Beecher or Talmadge, both were closed having only one service, at
length, we found one church open. The minister was earnest,
and did not allude to the disaster as I suppose he had in the

28

morning. Monday was awakened by firecrackers. Young America
kept up a popping, but a nation was in mourning. _ In Philadelphia
The Mayor, had forbidden all fire crackers. _ and great disatisfaction
was expressed. _ but, he gave his reason the fearful accidents, especial-
lyRegularized:especially one he witnessed of a young lady being burned to death by fire cr
crackers, or torpedoes exploding near her, as it was, many a accident did happen. _
I went to Coney Island to see the fireworks, they were fine, and the hotels,
the gardens by night were lovely, only every body was thinking of the Pres-
identRegularized:President, During my stay in New York, I was poorly, I think more from mental
than physical weakness; On Wednesday morning I started to see M^rs. Bailey's
sister Miss Mallory who treated me so kindly on my last visit. She looked
younger than when I saw her 4 years before. I did not go to the Shearns that
morning, but, thought I would in the afternoon. I did not. I found with some dif-
ficultyRegularized:difficulty, Bleecker St., a young woman just went in I rang, she opened
the door, and to my enquiry "does M^r James Gillene live here." she replied no.
I asked if he did not board here, then she said, GeoGeorge Gillene lives here. I
told her I was from Texas, _ had seen him in the hospital, then she said, "Come
in I know who you are." James Gillene is dead, but his mother and brother will
be so glad to see you. I went up stairs, and if ever I felt weary in going to the hos-
pitalRegularized:hospital, I was repaid, in the joy that mother and brother took in seeing me. The
brother was very delicate, and they insisted on bringing me some lunch. _ told me how
Jimie told his mother to write to me, but she could not find the card with my name, that the
very evening before, she and her daughter in law, had been talking about it, and determined
to write to the Infirmary and ask about me. That on Saturday afternoons Jimie would
say "now the ladies are visiting the hospital." then when she laughed at him, ^{and called him homesick} he
said "well mother if you had been as lonely as we were, you would know just
what those visits were to us"; Geo.George asked me to write, I did so and received an
answer written by his sister in_law, another letter and another answer GeoGeorge was

29

dead; His mother now had two sons one grown & married & one little one. _ I next went,
to the store of a M^r Simonson whose brother was in the hospital, he was a Jew,
a rare thing it is for a Jew to be in a hospital. He want me to call again I would
not, but told him my errand. _ his anger was fearful. he said his brother had left
home, his mother mourned for him, for 20 years, but that he would help him
but he should not know it. He begged me not to tl tell his brother, the mother
lived, but I did, I wrote to him, told him his mother lived and mourned
him. I got to Broadway, tried to catch an Omnibus, could not. _ went and
paid the extra postage of Scientific American, found myself in what was famil-
iarRegularized:familiar ground of other days. _ Then went over to Castle Garden, found M^r Henry
Thoenssen. He did not look as gay as when I saw him last. Ernst had died since
Anna I found was married, and lived near. I went to see her. She lived in a
crowded part of the city, had a sweet little girl, her husband I did not see,
we talked long about old times, then she walked me through Castle Gar-
denRegularized:Garden: I promised to write to her, but have not, on going home I missed my way &
M^rs. M was uneasy about me; next morning, M^rs. M her mother M^rs. Wood & I went
to Greenwood, the cemetery of New York. I found it was over on Long
Island, but as I intend to write about cemeteries in one place I will
pass that over. I was not well enough to go out again to M^rs Shearns
I saw, M ^rs Gilletti's daughter. Friday I went to the decoration rooms
with Jimie Moore. Saturday was spent getting ready for my trip. _
Dear M ^rs. Moore went on board with me; how dreary I felt as I saw the shores of
America fade. I went not knowing whither I was going: as for business
was concerned, _ or if my sister would be living: ^21. It was hoped that Pres.President
Garfield would recover when I left New York. _ _


This is my sister Fannie's birthday, & 22 1^years._ 1 m.month since she died. _

30

The Old World. _ Cities. Liverpool

The first land I touched was Liverpool. I noticed my ^first brief stay
there in voyages; On my return, I was there one night & part of a day. _
The city looks dingy, grand Solemn, & busy. _ Old churches but in good
order, for the English value old relics. I hope they care for old people; I stopped
at the Washington Hotel. I was not pleased with it. I had to wait a long
time, and see those who sat down after me, served before me; until a gen-
tlemanRegularized:gentleman, at the same table called the attention of the waiter, to me. There were
not enough waiters and the head one was rude. I thought with regret of Sim-
pson'sRegularized:Simpson's where I was politely served; I took a walk. _ I saw one or two articles
in a window, I wanted, asked the price, found they fell in price
so I was afraid of being cheated, so left. I saw a blind man, seat-
edRegularized:seated on a side walk, reading his Bible in raised letters. _ a group wereRegularized:was
gathered round him, silent & listening, God's word will not return,
unto him void, and who can tell the good done by the blind
man's reading? I heard some singing of the Sankey hymns and asked
a boy what it was: he said it was the Salvation Army: I hurried to the
hotel and inquired, about it, but although not quite dark, I found
it was later than I choose to be out in a strange city. The next
morning, I called at M^r. Lemonious' Office found a note from Miss
Edson. I sat down to write to W Stone, but fortunately asked the
time, it was ten, at eleven I was to be on board. I hurried, away,
missed the street, found the hotel, paid my bill; the porter who put my
satchel in put out his hand, and said "remember the porter m'am"
I was in ample time, and on the tug, were two little ^girls who I thought
would be my companions de voyâge found they were only come

31

to bid their father goodbye, who was engineer, on the Biafra. _
The next city I visited was Glasgow, after I left Liverpool . _

Glasgow.

The situation here to me was comical. I thought I knew where M^r John
Morrison lived, who had married my niece; Mary Payne, No.Number 14 Newton
terrace. it turned out it was NoNumber 4. Newton Street. I inquired of the ^cab driver, he
said no Morrison lived on Newton Terrace. I drove to Grand Hotel Charing Cross.
I made inquiries obtained a directory, and to my dismay found 27. John
Morrisons, . The manager told me to go to the Post Office, because there they
would have directories of many years. It would have been well for me if I
had taken his advice, but I was afraid of British Officials that was the
truth: therefore I took my list of John Morrisons. a M^r. Morrison, was at home
at the first place, he gave me a list of those nearest together, told me to take
a hack. or cab, which I did. I can hardly tell all the adventures or an-
noyancesRegularized:annoyances, mostly through my cabman getting drunk, although I did not
know what was the matter with him; Every one was polite to me; Only one
John Morrison, seemed to be bewildered said no ma'm I am not the one.
I afterward thought that as I had a paper in my hand, perhaps, he thought
I was taking a ^up subscription. I found the houses strangely numbered to me. _
one was Morrison No.Number 3 Newton Street, but were from the city. _ It was
Wednesday night I arrived in Glasgow, all Thursday I looked for
my relations, and cursed my folly, for coming, as I did not know
they had moved; I had not intended trying to find them, until Martha
Payne's last letter mentioned, M ^r. Morrison hoped they would see me on
my way out, but as I had never been told they had moved, I thought
I was, quite right, in looking through Glasgow. I saw many familiar

32

33

35

Glasgow to Aberdour.

Editor; I bade farewell to M^rs. Stirton and her two daughters and in a
couple of hours found myself at Dunfermline. It was on this trip that
our car was invaded by a party of excursionists to Stirling; very unpleas-
antRegularized:unpleasant they were, but there was no redress. _ arrived at Dunfermline, a lady
who was on the train, called a little boy, gave him a penny, told
him to show me to J.John Morrisson's clothing store: It was quite light,
but all stores were closed, for another penny the boy took me
to the house, on Buchanan St.Street M^rs. Morrison was on the cricket
ground; I had covered my satchel with my shawl to prevent his
seeing my name on it, but when he saw me he said, I suppose this
is aunt Kezia, he then made me welcome. but added, that Mary
and the children were at AbberdourRegularized:Aberdour , some seven miles away._
he took me into the house, ordered a carriage and took
me down to AbberdourRegularized:Aberdour . it was a delightful drive, and
light until nine, and long after ^that the twilight continued.
Arrived at the house. Mary came to the door, and I for
the first time greeted a ^blood relation since I was ten years
old. Mary was very sweet, and pleasant looking. she had
six children, all came in to see what had brought papa,
as he was not expected until next evening Saturday. _
was it possible that these were my relations; It seemRegularized:seemed
queer to send the children to bed by daylight. _ This
long twilight is called gloaming. Of course we sat up that

36

night and talked. Talked of Madeira, America, plans, families were
discussed. Early in the morning, I was up to look out. I found it very cold. _
and wondered why people came down to the sea side. _ in such bleak
weather. _ We had family prayer. M^r. Morrison went to Dunfermline.
and the children, Sarah, Maggie Ella Katie & Jamie, went down
to the sands. They all had little buckets, and spades, and when we
got there, every other child had the same; filling the bucket, and
emptying it was the favorite amusement; I wandered over the
sands, and hill-sides, gathered blue bells, sent some to my friend
but failed as usual to keep any myself; I do not mean to say
I am not selfish, but careless; a picnic was in progress, in
some woods near by; some familiar hymns were sung, then
a large party of botanists came along gathering specimens, and
talking in long words. Many went in bathing. Children were
soused under and squalled accordingly. One little boy was
bathing in the suit that nature gave him, then hurried up &
ran behind a rack to dress. _ and looked furtively to be
sure no one saw him, athought every one was at liberty to see
him bathe. I enjoyed the sceneeryRegularized:scenery ^{I mean the rock & sea not the bathers,} and we went home scram-
blingRegularized:scrambling over walls, and up hills, or as the children called
them braes. _ the gowans grew here made me think
of Burns. _ The file fields of wheat were growing, the poppies looked
like bright eyes; looking up & the fair Magarite made me think
of Blanche Moore.

37

In coming home, we had to climb over two stone —
walls, and as Maggie said the braes were steep. The children
used the ScotchRegularized:Scottish dialect. "I dinna be fashed" said Sarah
"with these flowers." Saturday afternoon I remained at
home; Sunday rainy morning, but we went to church
as I felt thankful for my pleasant trip. but we
were late owing to the rain. a deacon at each church
door, looked disapprovingly on the late comers, of
which there were several. _ a plate outside the door
received the (alms & oblations) The church was small
and plain, for Aberdour was is a seaside village. _
The pulpit between the doors and the entrance, very high.
Here I first saw a Presbyterian Minister wear a gown
to preach in; There was no organ, the singing was led by a
Pre centor, and it was a curious performance, in a small en-
closureRegularized:enclosure just in front of the pulpit, but on the ground floor.
sat this dignitary: also in a robe, _ but short, each Hymn
was read, and during the reading the precentor, took
a long slip of card board. bearing the name of the
tune, put it on a stand; and turned it to all
points of the church. _ then he started the tune
in a strong voice. a note book was in each pew.
[...]tes, at the top words underneath, but the part
[...] notes, cut seperateRegularized:separate, from the words. _

38

April.

When the service was over, _ the deacons aforesaid opened
the doors, and the congregation filed out. the small garden of
the church was very pretty. _ I had enjoyed the service, and was
told that the minister rose to his position by his own efforts,
as his father was a miner. It brought to mind the Miner
of Mansfeldt. _ Home to dinner; the servant was gone, and
the baby not well, so Mary; remained at home. _ In the after-
noonRegularized:afternoon we again went to church; this time all the children, _
went, the weather had cleared up. After church M^rs. Morrison
took me for a walk; it was delightful, no wonder Burns
was a poet, living I in Scotland, and it was strange to
see everything grow and s I such beautiful flowers, in so
cold a place. _ ^20. I kept repeating, "Is it possible I am in Scotland," on Sunday
evening, we had singing of hymns. I was going to play the tunes on the piano, found that
Scottish propriety forbade it, or at least respect for the Sabbath. It is better to be too strict
than too lax, in keeping the Sabbath. we had our singing, and we enjoyed it. ^29. On. Monday we
that is, M^rs. Morrison Sarah and I, went over to Edinburgh. _ We crossed the Firth of Forth
in the ferry boat 'Lord Aberdour.' _ It was early, and quite chilly. _ I had on a cloak. _
besides a woollen dress. _ The ferry boat was not so full as Fulton ferry
boats are, and the broad ScotchRegularized:Scottish accent, sounded on every side. _
(I shall leave Edinburgh until I have finished Dunfermline &
Aberdour.) I returned at night tired out, and slept well, but the
real nights were so short at this time of year that I could not
[...]before it was daylight, either just departing, or breaking. _
[...]The children went with me to the old Abbey church and graveyard. _

39

of Aberdour; The tombstones are very ^old, of dating to I think 1620. _
Some very strange inscriptions. _ The Abbey, was a ruin, seemed as if destroy-
edRegularized:destroyed by fire. Large trees grew out of the centre; and mould and gloom covered
the ancient church where in others days, the people had come to worship. _ first
in the Catholic faith, and then in the more evangelical. The covenan-
tersRegularized:covenanters had preferred plainer buildings; Then I went to the castle, a woman
lived in a small house near, let us in, up stairs into a loft now occupied
by pigeons. The windows were small, the fireplaces the same. _ little narrow
stair ways, and very thick walls. These old Scottish Lords must have often
lived in great fear, .to have, been obliged to build such strong holds.
The grounds were lovely even now. The trees, all around the castle
moaned a requiem for the departed glory of the place. _
Aberdour is a village of one long street in which are shops small houses
pretty residences, _ other buildings are scattered here and there. The
grounds of Lord Murray Donny Bristol, look very fine but
though, M^r. M.Morrison had a key we did not have time to go and see
them: The Mansion was burnt some years ago; but one thing struck me
painfully. _ some such small houses, scarcely any windows, where the
poorer people lived, coal miners, & fishermen. _ Here I saw the
fish women, a large basket of fish on their backs, their
dress short or tucked up, and the cry a_caller_plue was
strange, and not unpleasant, _ meaning fresh fish. _ The little
garden in front of Mary's house was very pretty, gay flowers daisies
pansies, _ bloomed in the rain & bleak wind. _ On Wednesday. . Maggie
and [...]nt to D On Tuesday, I was to go to Dunfermline, and

40

Aberdour to Dunfermline.

Sarah had often been with me to EdinburgRegularized:Edinburgh . _ Maggie was
to go as on Wednesday we were to go to Stirling to the cattle show _
Little Katie put in her plea to go. Her mother said no Katie Maggie is the
eldest. I can't help that, replied little Katie. I ought to go, however, Mag-
gieRegularized:Maggie went, we walked down to the Hotel, and waited there until the
stage went to Inverkeithing; The Hotel was a pretty building, but there
was a smell of drink that showed that temperance principles were not the
rule. In Scotland as well as in other parts of the earth, drunkenness is the bane
of all classes, strict as they are in other things. The stage came in, a vehicle like
an omnibus, _ and, this was our farewell to Aberdour, a bright little spot in
memory; At InverkithingRegularized:Inverkeithing we took the cars to Dunfermline. _ The country
we traveled through was very pretty. _ The hedgerows so green, although many
fields do not seem to have any division; as cattle have to be herded. _
M ^r. Morrison met us at the station, the flight of stairs that go up over
the railway; Dunfermline is an old ScotchRegularized:Scottish town, the favorite
resort of a certain pious Queen Margaret, here also the Bruce
family, had their home. The Abbey Church has Robert the Bruce
on its tower; & under the pulpit he is buried several of the
Bruce family have their tombs here, and the wife of Dean
Stanley ^{is one}; On the principal or high Street, on a cross street,
called as the cross, was M^r. Morrison's Clothing store or as
all are called here shops; we again went to his house on
Buchanan Str.Street Maggie being with me we had no trouble. I asked
M^r. Morrison how it was the shops closed so early, he replied
they closed at seven or eight o'clock. Oh, I replied it was
broad daylight when I came here last Friday, and all

41

the stores were closed. Well he said, do you think I could keep open
until ten o'clock? if we were regulated by daylight here, we would
have no time to rest. I found it was thoughtless of me. I had often
wondered how they did manage in Norway & Sweden when they ^had such
long day light. Of course they sleep at stated hours. _ M^rs. Morrison
brought in what was needed. Maggie made tea, and afterwards, in
came David and George Payne, my sister's two youngest sons. _
David is very much like his father, and George as much like his mother. _
we sat and talked a long time. The boys were anticipating a holiday, the
next day; as M^r. Carnegie was coming in to town, to lay the corner
stone to a free Library. for the young people of Dunfermline. _
M^r. Carnegie is a ScotchmanRegularized:Scotsman who many years ago went to America
engaged in iron works in PittsburgRegularized:Pittsburgh : he became rich, and remem-
beredRegularized:remembered his native town. On a former occasion he gave £8000 to build
baths, for the young men, and now he gave £5000, towards a
Library. _ The townspeople to give the rest. Of course, he was much
thought of. His mother came with him. The corner stone was
the key stone of the arch. _ the lady, placed it in position
left for it. It^There was some discussion as to whether we should
remain and see the celebration or go to Stirling, but Stirling
took the day; Early on Wednesday, _ morning all were astir, our
breakfast soon over. Others were also astir. The good people
of Dunfermline were hurrying hither & thither, to put things
to rights, flags were flying, also banners, in various forms
a huge pair of scissors, (harmless) as they were of bunt-
ingRegularized:bunting, was one. ^also other devices. The walls of the intended Li-
braryRegularized:Library were erected, to nearly their intended heighth. _ they were

42

Dunfermline to Stirling

of grey stone; We left the busy throng, and wended our way to
the Station. We were soon on our way to Stirling, a M^c. Curry
was with us. I had been this road when I came to Dunfermline
from Glasgow, again we passed Melrose Abbey. _ and as we neared
Stirling, it was easily seen as its castle loomed up grandly in the
morning light. _ We walked some distance. The river ^Forth winds through
the town. They say it spells Stirling. we came to the Fair grounds. _
It put me in mind of the Fair grounds in Houston; in some things. _
only there were more cattle and fewer other things. First we
went to see the horses, as they were being tried. The grooms were
dressed in tights & ScotchRegularized:Scottish caps; a high gate or hedge was in
the middle of the arena, over this the horses were to leap.
one horse took the prize, and after that when his rider was
showing him off, he threw him into the ditch; that was just be-
yondRegularized:beyond, as one of the bystanders remarked, "that wa noo bonnie."
The horses were various, some beautiful animals, their
stalls were ranged on one side. _ we looked at them, then
the dogs. Shepherd dogs, how pretty they were, they put me
in mind of one M^rs. Fisher had in San Marcos. _ Then we look-
edRegularized:looked at the chickens. Fowls of all kinds, some black bantemsRegularized:bantams, the
first I ever saw, many were sent in by the titled people _ next the
Sheep. I did not know there were so many different kinds. _ the wool
the horns; the wool was so thick, and the horns so curled. I could under-
standRegularized:understand that a crooked word meant ramsRegularized:rams' horns, or rather that ramsRegularized:rams' horns
meant a crooked word; Maggie never got tired of watching them, though as
she said, she wanted to see "the wee lammies." Pigs were there in plenty.
long snouts, short snouts, long short & curly tails, but the chief show

43

was the cattle; the Ayrshire were the prettiest, to my thinking, neat little
beasties M^c. Currie called them: Then the cattle without horns. The Highland Black
cattle were very fierce looking. I had read about Black cattle, here, and in Aus-
traliaRegularized:Australia, Some of the Highland cattle were not black & had large horns, were very
fine stout animals, and their hair was long and thick such as I never saw
on cows before, but it is what they need in that bleak climate to lead them
they had rings in their noses; We walked about a long time, and it was the finest
day we had of all I spent in Scotland, although it rained a little about mid_day.
Some booths were put up for refreshment, and on the signs were painted
1^st 2^nd 3^rd class refreshments. _ one had a very large thistle growing near the
door, on one side machinery was exhibited, a lot of American. _
some bees. _ The stalls for sheep & cattle &c were an improvement on
our Texas, fairs, as they were, in double rows, and an awning over
them, the horses only being against the wall. At last we came out,
went to a temperance restaurant, had tea bread & butter. M^cCurrie
had a bad headache; then we went to look around the town. _
What a number of plaids. I should mentioned that in the
fair, many both men & boys wore the Scottish dress of
kilts, they looked strange & pretty._ In the shops wal what a display
of plaids. I always did like plaids, we went to a tract ware-
houseRegularized:warehouse. I bought a few with colored pictures; then we went up to
the castle. The walk up the hill to the castle was good broad
but I was dizzy, and it was with difficulty. I could bear to look on
the gay beautiful scene stretched out below us, far away below
was the fair, its gay tents & streamers. For my sake M^rs. Morrison
turned aside, up a road that did not try my nerves so
much; we entered the castle, over the bridge, the draw,

44

that spanned the moat, that bridge had not beRegularized:been drawn for many years. _
but now andRegularized:an extra guard was there on account of the Fenian disturb-
ancesRegularized:disturbances. There were a number of soldiers about the castle, it is used as barracks. _
and although an ancient building is in great preservation. We walked about
up into the court where is the Statue of Robert Bruce and on Abbey
Hill opposite is the monument to Sir William Wallace. It seems as
if one might fancy in some midnight stillness these two might
yet hold converse. about the land they loved so well; Wallace's
monument, looks better from the Castle, than it does from the
road; The monument is of white stone, a shaft; from here we could see
the river Forth, but I did not just make out ^word Stirling. The man in charge here asked
us a riddle, who was the first King^{In Edinburgh.}crowned in England. We did not go
through the castle, a guide was not near, and as M^r. Currie remarked, "ItsRegularized:It's
no worth while to spend a sixpence to see the inside" We went out,
and saw soldiers, parading, as far as the exercise goes, the drill
the perfect step, pad parade is well enough. _ but otherwise,
I have no fancy for soldiers; we came down rested at
a place where boys were at play. _ & a little girl knitting all
the ScotchRegularized:Scottish knit, it is something to keep from being idle.
then past the cemetery, where are buried some of ScotlandsRegularized:Scotland's most
loyal sons & daughters; I think it was here we saw a
church, even the outside was adorned with images, heads. _
it was in ruins. It was one destroyed in the days of John Knox. _
who said, "break up the nests & the rooks will fly away."
after a pleasant, & I hope profitable day we went home to Dun-
fermlineRegularized:Dumfermline, but I have heard since that M^r. M^cGregor was at

45

Dunfermline.

Stirling that very day. I did think often while I was in Scotland about
him; but did not know ^what part he was in. The English tongue was easily
distinguished from the broad ScotchRegularized:Scottish accent; arrived once more at Dun-
fermlineRegularized:Dunfermline, we took tea. after we had made it, then David & George came in.
Maggie and I went out in the garden, picked currants, put sugar over them,
and had tea. There were quite a lot of currants and goose berries, in this
little garden, we sat up rather late. The boys telling us about the
celebrations, on behalf of M^r. Carnegie, that gentleman was going to
speak to the young men, so after tea they went to hear the speech. _
Maggie & I slept well that night, and after breakfast on Thursday
morning, M^rs. Morrison took us to see the factory where George
is employed as machinist, we went through the different
rooms, the work was tablecloths. _ the operatines were mostly
women; Some looked very respectable; It was for all these work-
ersRegularized:workers that M^r Carnegie established the free Library; I think it is a
pity that when a woman earns her living she should not be thought
as fit for good society as one who has nothing to do; True, when
one has a regular business they do not have time for visiting,
or receiving calls, and often times, women grow careless in their
ways and expressions when mixing with those who labor with
the hands, constantly. David is a drawer and designer of
patterns, we looked round the factory and as we came
out registered our names. _ they were expecting Americans today;
but I was not of M^r. Carnegie's party; it was cool^cold, and in the
Office was a bright fire. July, 28.^1881. I found the fire comfortable._
The foreman or manager of the factory was a M^r. Morrison, which

46

is quite popular all over Scotland as in Glasgow, & the Morrisons of Glas-
gowRegularized:Glasgow I shall not forget, soon; This was the day I was to Mary was to return
to Dunfermline; M^r. Morrison went down after her. _ Maggie & I went to
view the town, it is a clean little place. _ County of Fife. _ There is a pretty
bowling green near M^r. Morrison's. The natural hills make many streets
steep. Maggie & I set forth, first to see the Abbey or castle, a road
passes under what was ^once the castle way; the ruins are very ruined, but
the grounds are pretty. The large church is in good preservation. I
do not know what denomination it was. I suppose Episcopal, as the
wife of Dean Stanley is buried there; It seems as if the entrance
was at the back, at least the pulpit is under the tower. _
an old stone coffin is in the vestibule, and some curious stone
pillars are shewnRegularized:shown, two are ornamented with arrows, which
looked, at in different ways, looked^appeared wider at top or bottom. _
according on which direction you are standing; The seats, the galleries,
all were modernized. _ outside in front, were old tombstones, some
of ancient families. the Queen Margaret, was laid here, and
Bruce was said to be under the pulpit, but no stone marked
his resting place. The other tombs were very fine. M^rs. Stanley. _
perhaps she had some other title but I forget, it, the slab was
plain. May 23.^1882. When I wrote the last pages of this Sister Sarah was
in the room; but it was the last day she sat here, that
night she had another severe attack; depriving her of speech
and power of swallowing anything more solid than
broth, from Thursday. 11^{oclockRegularized:o'clock.} P.M. May 11^th she spoke no word,
and died May 21. Sunday. 4.40 P.M._ ^{Dear Sister} rest in peace.

47

24 May. _

Maggie and I then went over the Castle, or palace, the ruins were
very grim, an old staircase led down either to the kitchen
or some dungeon; the Arch way was the finest part of the
ruins the street went under it, now, and for this day in honor
of M^r. Carnegie who was visiting Dunfermline, as I have
before stated, the American ^flag floated over the arch way. _
We went to Saunder's restaurant to dinner; two ladies came while
we were there, they fell into a chat with us, and said as they
saw us in the cemetery, or Churchyard, ^{of the Abbey} they observed that
I must be American, I lived there so long, no one takes
me for English, as I am not a native of England, no wonder. _
After walking about some time, going to M^r. Morrison's clothing store, &c
we went home. George came and we made ready to receive Mary. _
and the bairns. She soon came, and then we chatted, until quite late.
It was decided that I should go off by the six o'clock train. M^r. Morri.
sonRegularized: Mr. Morrison to accompany me to Edinburgh; Mary advocated the plan of
remaining with her, and going down on the night train to
Liverpool, but I looked with horror on any such an arrange-
mentRegularized:arrangement. Rail way travelling in England, was not so pleasant to
me; We bid goodnight, I asked Sarah Morrison, what message for
her grandma, after whom she was named. _ She replied
I have not made it up yet. I'll tell you in the morning, when
morning came, Sarah was fast asleep. _ At Six we started,
and I believe in is down in railroad & steamboats.
how we went to Inverkeithing, crossed the Firth until

48

Edinburgh

so wide that land cannot be seen on either side, but soon came
in sight of Edinburgh, _ and here I will speak of Edinburgh
This ancient Scottish city. _ When we reached Edinburgh from
Aberdour, _ it did not seem so far across the Forth. _ We
saw a Norweigan barque, laden with ice. It is cold enough without
ice, on we went up into the city, passed the immense docks
a new one was to be opened the next day by the Duke of Edinburgh
ThatsRegularized:That's what the princes are for I suppose, to open docks, lay foundation
stones &c.&c.&c. we went on to Arthur's seat. Salisbury Cliff &
opposite to that, is the monument to Lord Nelson, one to
RobtRobert Burns, and an imitation Grecian temple, in honor
of all the illustratousRegularized:illustrious dead, this is not finished as it is too
costly; At this place an old guide met us; and began to explain. _
and said he, "It is a bad lookout for the President of the United States
we replied that he was improving. "no this morning the telegrams report
him worse" and so we found it, and thus it was worse & better until
all was over; From NelsonsRegularized:Nelson's monument, he showed us, a ball & wire, that by
electricity fired a gun off at one o'clock, at the castle. _
we journeyed on, until we came in sight of Holyrood
house; I began to realize I was in Scotland; it rained, as usual,
we stood against a wall for shelter, the guard in front of the
palace took shelter in his watchbox; This guard was dressed
so queerly, his feet & legs were encased in white leather
legginsRegularized:leggings, then his kilt, or short skirt, of plaid, he had a
black jacket that fitted tightly, ^to a belt, was hung a
bag of fur, called a sporenRegularized:sporran, and on his head a tall hat.

50a

dragged through Queen Mary's room, the stains of blood are
said to be there. but perhaps some dark stain made on the
wood is there, certain it is, it is the place, where the sad story
of love & murder was enacted, only a part of the palace
or house was open to visitors, the long corridors closed round
an open square in the centre, on one side of this were the
apartments of the Queen Victoria, who was expected here
August 25, to review the troops. The Abbey close by is ^{built by David in 1128.}
in ruins, it shows that the royal families had
regard for religion, here Mary was married to DaridyRegularized:Darnley
The roofless Abbey looks sad, beside the palace. _
within are tombs, of some of Mary's friends the
Hamilton'sRegularized:Hamiltons always stood by her;
We went from Holyrood, through the old town I wished
to see the houses so many stories high, at the back. _
and from the declivity on which they are built.
only two stories in front. _ we went into a restau-
rantRegularized:restaurant, took lunch, & rested, just opposite a house
eleven stories high, afterwards climbed some
stairs, and found the same house moderately
high on the other street, passed the house of
John Knox the reformer, then, on to the Castle.
This venerable pile of stones is built on a cragieRegularized:craggy
steep, grand of itself. _ over the draw bridge, into
the castle keep. In front, were the Highlanders,

50b

June 18.

gardening. It is pretty, but of course takes one person to look after
it and keep it trimmed, also, to keep one plant from overgrowing another,
for in plants, as in animals some seem disposed to be greedy. At one end was the
elaborate monument to Sir Walter Scott; it is of dark stone, looks like a
fairy temple, and his Statue in it. Burn's Regularized: Burns's is more like a Temple ^canopy. supported
by pillars, no wonder they were poets, living amongst the lovely scenery. _
In Edinburgh near Charlotte square, is the statue of Prince Albert; he was a man
greatly esteemed by the English people, and I suppose he loved Queen Victoria
or he would never have taken the second position, a consort to the Queen is
obliged to take; In that position there must be strange love on both sides,
because although many a woman wears the breaks, no man likes to own
thus the Marquis of Lorne, is his wife's husband, and is not counted in
the Royal family; but if he & Princess Louise love each other, they
can be happy, especially in Canada, for in a new country, those
distinctions are easier got over. _ but love is the same every-
whereRegularized:everywhere, unselfish, and refining, the dross of humanity. We left
Edinburgh, I to wend my way to Liverpool, M^r. Morrison to return
home to wife & bairns. _ Edinburgh is a beautiful city. _
I think it handsomer than any city I saw in greatRegularized:Great
BrittainRegularized:Britain , and, but there is no comparing it with the
cities in America. They are so new. M^r. Morrison took
me down to the Station bid me good bye then turned
again & bought me some sandwiches; to eat on the
way; As it was holiday with some of the factories, many girls were
walking about in gay striped dresses, barefooted & bare-headed. _

51a

reviewing, dressed as I have described only instead of white
legginsRegularized:leggings, had plain stockings, & black sandals. _ they
drilled as it were one man, so evenly they moved. _
but I have no fancy for soldiers, we went through
the castle it was here, we saw the crown & jewels
of Scotland, and I think here the man asked who was
the first King crowned in England, on my answering
James 6, of Scotland "Ah" Said he "you've been round
with me before, and now another where do the mon-
keysRegularized:monkeys have no tails?" I did noRegularized:not know. In Gibraltar,
they say they lose them on their way over from Africa
from whence they come, it is thought underground. _
I told the man I was just three days from America,
so had not seen him before. _ I remarked we had
no such massive castles in America. M^r Morrison
remarked "it is as well," if you can live peace-
ablyRegularized:peaceably, without them." Indeed, they do seem to tell
of insecurity of life, but as they are built, it is
better to keep them; in order, to show what can be done
and they are good barracks, & strong holds, leaving
the castle we went down to Prince Street, that was
more my taste. on one side were large shops. _
or as we say in Texas stores, on the other, were
gardens, beautifully laid out, in these were pansies,
planted so as to be one color in a row, yellow purple, dark
& light, then a foliage plant. this is called ribbon.

51b

[Cemeteries]

I will notice briefly the cemeteries of some of the
cities I have seen in the places I have visited. _ All nations show
some respect to their dead. _ The ancients burned them & preserved their ashes,
in an urn. The Indians expose the dead on a a high scaffold, then mourn
for them in loud complaint, some bury them, & with them their bows
arrows &c. The Bible recommends burying the dead. Abraham bought
Macphelah for that purpose; _ Civilisation beautifies the cemeteries, and
adds pomp to the ceremonies that surrounds the remains of the loved
one, but it is the last we can do, for those we love; The cemeteries of
some of the cities of America are celebrated; Mount Auburn in Boston,
Greenwood on L.Long Island, New York. Laurel Hill Philadelphia, Elmwood
Memphis, I have visited, and Glenwood Houston, is with its
^magnolia groves, almost as beautiful as any; If I remember, they are laid out
in avenues, squares, &c. real cities of the dead. a Chapel, in the
grounds, for religious service, of all denominations. In
Boston there are signboards with name of avenue, elm ave.avenue pine
larch &c. and besides the chapel, ^there is an edifice of such anRegularized:a
height as to command a fine view, of the surrounding
country; I believe it only a tower or lookout. _ In New
York, the most beautiful monument is that of Miss
Charlotte Coday CodareRegularized:Canda, the daughter of a teacher, all
was lavished on that child, and at 20, she died,
suddenly. The monument is her statue in marble,
and around. her angels. in marble. it cost $75,000. _
and is exquisite, as it should be for that price. _
In Elmwood, Memphis, the monument most attractive
is that of Mattie Stevenson, the young girl who,

52

crossed over from Illinois to nurse the fever stricken in
1873. she died, and a monument was erected. Her Statue, and
behind an angel, pointing, upward & also showing a
book with Mattie's name, inscribed, & the words "She died
for us." a broken lily, is touching the angel, but I have
almost forgotten the exact design; In most of the tablets in all
these, verses of scripture, are carved, in some, there is an array
of virtues ascribed to the deceased, that is impossible to any
mortal, or a title to military glory is set forth. _
In Houston, Glenwood is lovely, but the little graveyard that
holds the dust so precious to me, is called the Episcopal
& Masonic, it has gone to ruin because the dead have been
removed, to Glenwood; As we drove through the cemetery of Green
wood N.Y.New York the driver, called out, This is the tomb of French, of
French's Hotel. This is the family vault, of So & so Merchant, &c.
but I found that was not on the tomb itself. In this
cemetery was the tomb of RevReverend ChasCharles Gillette & his wife. He
was our faithful pastor in Houston; also the grave of
D ^r. Francis Moore, an old time friend and with his widow
I remained whilst in Brooklyn. A.C.Augustus Chapman Allen of Houston is
in the same enclosure; old Texians. In the old world,
or Scotland I noticed, a great desire to set forth not
only the virtues, but the social position of the deceased. _
Thus, in Aberdour, So & so had been a manufacturer for
many years. _ ^{at Dumfernline. _} one had, been a good citizen &

53

been provost, another had been a farmer for 40 years. _
and again, one had, leadRegularized:led the singing for 30 years, a harp
had been carved on his tombstone; but the minister observed, as
often as he found that man under the pulpit, he f thought he
was standing, if not on, at least above a whisky barrel. _
The wife of Dean Stanley had a verse of scripture, so had others of
the Bruce family, with more elaborate monuments. _ The Monuments
to great men in Edinburgh, were very fine, and in public places,
unlike a cemetery. At Stirling, one monument, struck me,
as appropriate, it was to the martyr, Elizabeth Wilson,
who was tied to the stake & drowned by the coming tide. Her
Sister Agnes, also suffered. One sister represented sitting
reading, her sister kneeling by her looking over the same
book; behind them an angel, this was in marble, and over
all a canopy supported with pillars & cased in glass. _
the whole surrounded by a railing. there was also a shaft
to the memory of the covenanters;
I have noRegularized:not written much yet about Funchal, but the ceme-
tery Regularized:cemeteryhere is the loveliest one can imagine. _ The Portuguese
cemetery, is laid out in tombs, or vaults, and some
are very elaborate, but the flowers are so beautiful.
the walks well kept. _ In the English or Strangers
burial ground. The entrance contains flowers of
all descriptions the small Mortuary Chapel. _ [...]
beyond the grave yard, the Poplar or cedar marks
every cemetery here, the dark tall trees standing

54

like sentinels around the graves; What is so striking is the number
of young persons & from every nation under the sun, have
come here, to seek for health, as they thought, but really to lay
down the burden of life, in this lovely place, a peep into Para-
diseRegularized:Paradise to make them give up earth. _ But there is one monument
here that does honor to the one who erected it. It is the Hospital for
consumptives, of the Island & Brazil. _ The Princess Amelia, daughter
or sister of the present Emperor of Brazil came to the Island for
her health, she was relieved, and enjoyed the remnant of her days.
when she died as she did in her return to her native land. _
her mother, sent and built this Hospital. It is a fine commodious
building, not too high up, as the steep hills would be hard
to climb, there is a chapel, and the most beautiful grounds
one can imagine, views of the sea, the hills, are and near-
byRegularized:nearby one of the almost dry rivers. It is attended to by the
Sisters of Mercy, of different nations, who also have a
School_house on the grounds; Each Portuguese district
has its graveyard, known at a distance by the dark poplar
trees; The one in town has a chapel. _ also a very large
cross. _ one portion of this is allowed for Protestants
or heretics, or Calvinistas as they are called here; who
cannot be buried in the district graveyards, out of
town; This is a great moderation from former years; when
Portuguese heretics were thrown into the sea. The English
have their own graveyard, as I have noticed, no Portuguese

55

even protestants ^{or is} can be buried there, though many English and one
american Catholic is buried in the Portuguese ground. _ No corpse
can be buried under 24 hours, and when buried, must not be
removed for five years; that is the law. Funerals are conducted
differently here, therefore I might as well notice them. I did not
attend one in Great BrittainRegularized:Britain; In Funchal, there is no hearse,
the coffin is placed on a bier, which is covered with a black
cloth, with a cross, for Catholics. _ plain velvet for Protestants. _
The bier is then carried to the mortuary chapel, _ with the
English floral decorations; also ladies attend. _ either from
the house or go to the Chapel; but gentlemen all walk.
after the coffin; Portuguese, the near relatives remain
at home. The coffin is made with a hinge, and, closes
with a lock, the best friend carries the key. it is locked
at the chapel. _ after the service. One or two priests with
a silver cross, go in front; and for a little child, the
coffin is left open the little corpse dressed like an
angel, and it is carried by girls. _ girls, go in procession,
before it each bearing a lighted candle, at the grave
these are extinguished: another very curious custom, with
both English & Portuguese; is the leaving of cards. _
Those who attend the funeral, leave the cards, or write
their names on paper left for the purpose; After a time
the bereaved family l send their cards, with black
borders, to those who attended the funeral._ ^{& the words with thanks}Then after
the funeral, cards are sent with words kind sympathy

56

these have to be returned: Among the Portuguese, a notice is
put in the paper. of the funeral, then besides cards
a long notice of thanks; The English having no paper of their
own, do not put either; Like many other customs, that we are not
used to, this of sending round cards, struck me as ludicrous. _
I made the remark to my sister that if I sent cards to those who
attended a funeral, with thanks, I should add, hoping to return the
compliment, at earliest convenience, I I have no doubt the thought
has come into many a head besides my own; Of course with so much
ceremony, black is worn, the very deepest. The house is closed for
eight days, and even longer, the house is not swept for three days. _
I am afraid I have shocked some by not putting on mourning.
I wear a black dress I had; but I think if my dear sister did
not find out I loved her when I wrote to her so often, and
then came so far to see her, she would not find it out by any-
thingRegularized:anything I could wear after she was gone, and then I do not be-
lieveRegularized:believe in wearing mourning. Jesus says I am the light of
the world, and, then we do not sorrow as those without
hope, therefore I do not like to dress in black, as if the light
of my life had gone out. My dear mother, in Texas, told me not
to go into mourning for her: therefore as that was my idea
before her injunction strengthened it, but people can do
as they please, and some would think it very disrespectful
not to wear mourning. I do like to see the graves nicely kept.
fresh flowers, a neat tombstone; with a verse of scripture to

57

[Funchal]

the hope that is within us; _ Funchal _. _
I now begin, to describe Funchal, my native city, although my
parents were English, and even while writing of the graveyard, I
should have mentioned that my own mother died and is buried here.
also my sister Fanny, my ^½ sister Sarah, her husband, and 7 children,
her brother^{little sister} & mother, & a cousin of ours making, fifteen, in this ceme-
teryRegularized:cemetery, awaiting the last trumpet call, when the Lord, shall call his own. _
My mother in Texas was my step mother, and perhaps, my dislike to mourning
was, that having very heavy mourning for my own mother. I used to cry
over it so much, as it made me think of her; especially as evening came
on, I should have written this before a visit, and strangely enough
one from two children, who with their father, came over on a visit
to his native land, he was taken suddenly ill, and died in a few
hours; leaving his two children 12, & 10, years, with his brother-in-law.
he left his wife & 5 children in the Island of Trinidad. Martha
and I went to see them, and so as soon as they got mourning their
uncle brought them here; to see us. I hope our acquaintance will
be of benefit to us both; only the visit brought up the subject
of mourning.

58

Funchal is the capital of Madeira Island, & the third city in
importance in Portuguese kingdominions. The city is built on the
only level spot, on the south side of the island, that is that
slopes down to the sea, high mountains rise all around it. _
No wharf has ever been built strong enough, to resist the waves,
at one side the Pontinha a rock juts out into the sea, and by
being leveled, and steps built on one side, a landing place is
made for stormy weather; but large ships cannot come close up
to it, and the Loo Back makes navigation unsafe. _ At the
end of the Pontinha is a house for coal, and from the top about
80 ft.feet in very stormy weather passengers, ladies children, are put
in a basket chair, and let down like coal sacks. _ on to a
barge. There is also a small railroad, for coal cars. _ it is a very short one, but
has been 5 years in building, sometimes a part gets washed away, al-
thoughRegularized:although it is very strong, as all the masonry here is, it puts me in mind
of the coral insect, piling up little by little;
On landing in Funchal, the beach is stony, the boatman jumpRegularized:jumps
out takeRegularized:takes hold of the boat, & pullRegularized:pulls it on shore. _ then the pas-
sengersRegularized:passengers jump out, the beach is very long, and extends up
to the houses of the town, one object attracts attention, it
is a tall pillar, of brick, on the top is a mast, cross-
piecesRegularized:crosspieces &c. This used to called Branca's pillar, and many
years ago, it was used to hold a lever to haul goods up out

59

of a ship, but this failed, and now M^cBlandy an Englishman
has it, for a signal station, a flag is hung out to the east for vessels
from England, to the South for those from the Cape, a flag is put out
when it is time for the mail to close, therefore, it is an object of
interest to all who work for, or write letters; a few steps from where
our surf boat lands us we come to an avenue, wide, well paved, lined on
each side with sycamore trees, on one side are the telegraph office, Central
Hotel, & other building on the other side the Governor's Palace of yellow stone,
the entrance to the very pretty grounds guarded by a sentinel, The avenue
is not ye very long, and the terminates in a public walk or Praça, shaded by
the Indian Fig, a magnificant tree, the magnolia, and other trees, next
to that is a smaller garden, full of curious plants, and trees,
a police man is always there to keep people from picking the
fruit flowers, even with these & and fronting the Praça is the
Cathedral, a building of large size, with tower & clock, it is
said to have been built by the Moors, certainly is very old. _
The streets of Funchal are mostly narrow, this keeps them
shady._ there does not seem to be any particular ar-
rangementRegularized:arrangement in laying out the city, long & short
street straight, curved, & rounding._ up hill
and down, but all are paved with small uneven stones._
very few have side walks, & these very narrow._ Through the
town there are four rivers, Torrinha, St. Johns, Bravo, &
Secco, they are not flowing streams, but stony beds
of Mountain torrents, mostly dry, except, a few pud-
dlesRegularized:puddles here & there, where washer women do congregate, and

60

make the dirtiest of linen look white as snow.
On each side of the river, the banks are steep, and besides
are walled up to a height of about 4 feet above the level
ground, they are crossed by bridges, at every street, and
far out into the country, the bridges cross ravines.
It is said that these rivers sometimes overflow. this must be
when heavy rains fall in the mountains, and must be very
destructive; as the land is cultivated down to the water's edge._
a little piece of fertile land is discovered, a wall built roundRegularized:around it
and soon a garden appears. The women wash, down in the bed of the
river in cold water, with stones for a wash board; a great many
get their living in this manner, & the clothes are hung ^spread- out on stones
to dry. These rivers are bordered on each side with a row of
trees, which make delightful walks, and the ripple of water
over the stones has a cool sound; The houses are not regu-
larly Regularized:regularlybuilt, a large airy mansion and a one story cabin
or cottage of the poor, are side by side. then often in one
of the small streets one sees a beautiful house,_
with balconies &c. that looks out of place; Most of the houses
have a turret, or one room, at the top of the house from this [...] see
the shipping [...]. This turret is often oftentimes of wood, & gives the
house a strange look, because it is mostly painted red,_ no
matter what color the house is._ The houses are white
yellow orange, red pink, they are built of stone
and plastered outside, as well as inside. The roofs are

61

tiled, and some of the smaller ones thatched, the windows are
of glass, many open like shutters. _ have green venetian blinds
outside, and wooden ones in. The shutters do not move up & down
save a small piece, in one side, a peep hole. _ Many of the houses
have vendors, or wine stores underneath, so that usually, a flight
of Stairs, is the first difficulty; a long string is fastened to the
latch, led along the stairs to the top, by that, the door is opened.
without coming down stairs each time; it is a truly comical practice
to me. _ Houses are often three & four stories high, _ and the designs,
are odd in the extreme. Very few have fire places or grates in the
sitting rooms for warming, but in the kitchen is a very
wide chimney, a stone wall or table of solid masonry is
built up about, 3 feet, on that is a stone fourno; which
is like the a stove, with places for pots & kettles, built of
stone, the fire is lighted there, and in the wall an oven
is built. Satterly Stoves are introduced but without legs,
put on the table of masonry. _ In my sister's house at the
Torrinha, besides the stone forno, she had a nice cook-
ingRegularized:cooking range, built into the Wood is burnt, coal can
be had but is expensive as it is brought from England,
for the Cape & Coast Steamers; Some houses have grates
in sitting rooms, but I never saw a fire in any of the
grates, and the fire in the kitchen from being so high, is not at all
convenient warming one's self. Some of the small houses have a small
kitchen separate from the house._ The gardens are surrounded by very
high stone walls, often the gate or garden door is of wood, then nothing

62

of the garden can be seen, but when the door is iron railings, one can
look through, and, it is a peep into Paradise, to get a glimpse of one
of these lovely gardens; The whole island is terraced, one tier above another. _
not in regular rows _ but in each fazenda. _ as the owner pleases. The
roads, are cut through, or rather they go up the hill, and walls on
each side, to protect the cg gardens, a gutter for water is on one side
of the street, and leads into the different Fazendas; the running
water has a cool rippling sound; The terraces in each Fazenda divide the
grounds thus lowest sugarcane, with vines on one side, next, cane & vines
next vines & vegetables, a fruit tree here & there; upper one, flowers. _
and the dwelling house. _ but the road runs along this, so that the
lower windows on the front are near the ground, and the upper windows
at the back, are not far from the ground; Each house or garden has
a large tank for water for cooking, drinking water is brought
up from fountains near the sea; The system of water works
is very good, the only city in Texas that has anything like it is San Antonio.
The Lanadas, or water courses, are built around the mountains
The water runs in this and from there to different Fazendas. _
4 or 5 houses at h a time, there are public fountains on
every street, even up into the hills at these both man & beast
are refreshed, and the little scenes around the fountains are among
the most entertaining: The people are mostly industrious, they work at their
own fazendas, and hire out to work on others. women wash, and also
work in the fields; their clothes are patched, until it is hard to
say what the original color was; Little children work, from quite
an early age, they go errands, work in fields and carry dinner,
to a long distance to their parents or to other people. It is quite

63

common to see a boy with 4 baskets, carrying, to different persons. _
For all that, there is a great deal of poverty, much of that is
brought on by drink. It is said that good wine is preventive of
drunkenness, but here the wine is good, but there is a great
deal of drinking. A drink is made of the Sugar cane. _
So Satan has his toll of all. We are very much afraid of
giving our tenths to the Lord; but we do not hesitate to let
Satan take a fifth. _ In a general description it is hard to bring
all in, in rotation. Therefore, I will speak of the modes of conveyance. _
Oxen are the draught animals. The carriages are on the sledges. _ instead
of wheels, a body of a coach, put on sledges, & drawn by a pair
of oxen. the a long Sledge, is used for carrying loads, _ such as
furniture fuel, coal, &c. oftentimes, wood is hauled down a
hill, by men, drawing, then the trouble is to keep it steady. _
Another carro is a basket sledge, which oxen draw up the hill,
but the passengers, ride backwards, then coming down; hill
the man in charge holding on, and guiding them;
The way the invalids ride is mostly a hammock hung on
a bamboo pole. _ it is ornamented, has a canopy, and the invalids
can sit up or lie down, the pole is light and two men carry
it one at each end. _ the palanquin used to be used, but
it was so heavy; Horse back is the most popular mode of
conveyance among gentlemen, there are a number of fine
horses, each horse has a groom who runs besides or behind
the horse, and usually takes hold of the horse's tail, and
with a fig brush keeps all insects off.

64

There are a great many donkeys but they are used to carry loads of sand,
manure, stones &c. only one or two on the island are used to
ride, or, although they are more sure footed, than horses; The surest and
the most healthy way to see the scenes of, Madeira, is to walk. _
to wear easy shoes, take a stick, and walk, abroad, the stick
helps in climbing up the hill, and still more in getting down, again,
it prevents the strain on the back. _ that walking down a steep
hill, brings on; When I first came out last August, we lived on
the Torrinha l road; then if we went up the hill, the lavada
was a nice walk. _ this is really a water course, with fountains
and at set distances, these fountains are like hydrants in the
wall, a stone trough, allows animals to drink, and boys and
girls to wash their faces; but to return to the lavada, a
walk of some 3 or four feet wide, and a wall on the side
next the precipice renders it a pleasant, and safe walk. _
O above the lavada the roads go on still up and up._
still paved. _ with fountains on each side, up on the mount
is a fountain of cool water, said to be pointed out
by an image of the Virgin Mary, which appeared
in the rock; The quintas we passed were lovely, but we
could only see the flowers overhanging the wall, unless
a door happened to be opened, then we peeped in, but as we
ascended the hill and looked back over the scene, then
it was lovely, the green vines, the blue sea beyond, and
here and there a chapel. _ with its tower; and belfry.
A walk in the early morning up one of these hills is very

65

lovely one meets the little flocks of goats, a man: and a boy, is
with them: they are driven from house to house. _ and milked
at the door, this is mostly for invalids, as goatsRegularized:goat's milk is said to be stren-
gthingRegularized:strengthening. _ the vendors of cowsRegularized:cow's milk bring it in, in canRegularized:cans hung on
a stick. They come in from miles distant I was here some time be-
foreRegularized:before I saw a cow. _ we Although there are many on the island. _
and on Saturday they are bought and sold in a public square
in the town near the river. In walking, out one meets women
& girls, carrying red earthen pitchers of water, putting one
in mind of the stories of the bible, when women came
to the well for water; Men came too, but mostly with small
casks; carried on the shoulders; Some old women get their living
carrying water for the neighbors; Altogether, this city is different
from all others I ever saw, It reminds one of the Bible times in
its ancient habits, of fairy land in its beauty, and of Babel,
in the jabber that one hears in the streets; in the way of
talking, not much fighting; The natives are very polite, bid good
morning or evening, when one meets them in the street; I will
just describe one walk. We walked down the road to the beach. _
on our way we met a flock of goats, a Steamer from Eng-
landRegularized:England was just in, some passengers came ashore; and as is too
often the case the beggars beset them; also those who have
small wares to sell; It is astonishing, how the lame beggars do
get round, whenever there are strangers; to get any thing out of. _
The passengers do not have much time to walk about, because the
Steamers only stay two hours or less. _ and the boats are very
uncertain about getting off in time. In this instance, the

66

passengers had got scattered, two or three, got down to the
beach in time_ they got into one boat, then another one,
then, the boatman, quarrelled, and they (the passengers) looked
so bewildered, the Steamer whistled; then came other passengers
laden with baskets & feather flowers for which they paid a high
price no doubt; again the Steamer blew, one man just took
a boat, & left, a train of donkeys came along they
he-hawed, the Steamer blew, a final blast, the passen-
gersRegularized:passengers, jumped into a boat, the beggars & the peddlers
fl followed them to the watersRegularized:water's edge, but we watched them
until they got on board; they did just get there; in time: but they
had seen that the garden spot of the earth; Another walk,
is along what is called the new road, this goes for miles, along
the level ground, near the shore. _ sometimes close to the
shore, sometimes some distance, and one looks down on the
vineyards beneath. _ and out on to the sea sometimes we
see a steamer or sail vessels coming in, or the little
sail boats from Campanario come scuddling round
the coast. _ One thing makes Madeira so different to other
places, is the Religion. The Romish religion, so full of ceremony,
and soon after I arrived here the great festa of Nossa
Senhora del Montes was celebrated. The church is situated far
up in the hills, 7000 ftfeet above the sea; up to it are
stone steps, 70 in number, for long time before vows are
made if relief is granted from sickness, or trouble, of any
kind, they will go up on their knees, _ holding a lighted candle.
I was anxious to see the festival; and at five in the

67

morning of AugAugust 15, we, Martha Matilda, and I, started in a carro, for
f the mount, it was very steep, our carro was one of the basket kind. _
we rode backward up the hill, I got very dizzy _ crowds were going
and as the way was crowded, they grumbled at carros, blocking the way _
but ours was not the only one; Before we got to the stone steps, one devotee
an old man, was going upon his knees. _ we passed him, his daughter
was walking, weeping by his side, and before he arrived at his journey's
end he had to be supported. I did not see him come up, but by re-
mainingRegularized:remaining and watching I soon saw others, a woman holding a lighted candle
came up on her knees. She went up right up to the altar _ and there gave
up her candle, it was placed with the others. _ we got a place in the choir, and
soon the line of penitents could be distinguished by the line of
tapers, going through the crowd. Boys, were there with wax candles to sell,
with ribbons to be blessed. I watched those who came toiling up the steps
on their knees, some from the bottom, some only a few steps, other from
the church door, one a nice looking woman in black, a white hand-
kerchiefRegularized:handkercheif, on her head, a little boy walked beside her. _ her lighted
candle, seemed in danger of going out, she shielded it with the
other hand. _ Lastly came an old woman, so worn, so miserable
looking, that two men had to catch hold of her, to keep
her from falling; I followed her up to the altar, and then
got Martha to ask her why she made this vow. She answered,
her daughter was in bad health, she vowed if she recovered
she would go, up on her knees. _ and here she was, but meantime
her daughter was left a widow, and she had suffered loss, of
property, but her daughter was better. _ Oh wonderful endur-
anceRegularized:endurance of mother's love, the woman had come over from San

68

Martinho as very long distance before she could get to the mount. _
The altar of this church, was decorated with flowers real and artificial. _
numbers of candles, on the altar was the figure of a doll, Nossa Senhora.
This image is said to have appeared in a rock, near by, (just as at Lourdes. _
in France;) This image had priests attending on her all day, she was handed
to be kissed, and in the afternoon the much be kissed dolly, was put
on a tray or stand, and this stand borne on the shoulders of
four men carried out in solemn procession. _ first silver
cross, incense bearers, priests. Those who take part in the pro-
cessionRegularized:procession who are not priests; are dressed in silk robes, those who
go with the Host, have crimson silk robes, or long coats. _
those belonging to mount church have white silk with
blue capes, some have purple, some brown. In The procession
with the Host, the priest carries the Host or sacred wafer. _ in
a case on his breast. _ a canopy is held over him, all the
rest, go bare-headed _ neither does he wear a hat._ This process-
ionRegularized:procession, went out of the cathedral, and made a long circuit up
there in the hills, came back. _ Meantime, many got their
ribbons their flowers, their majarun blessed & passed
through the hand of the virgin. In the afternoon of this day
the music is very good. This is I believe the greatest festa
of the island: at night the church is illuminated, and
being set on a hill cannot be hid; many houses are also
lighted up, and flags are kept flying, at every fazenda
along the road. _ crowds of people come in, some remain
all night, cook their milheu, in the woods near. _ They come
up and they leave in groups, one in each company playing the

69

machete, & singing. I was wearied, and felt so sorrowful at what
was such idolatry, that I felt faint. I took a palanquin or hammock,
rode down _ and Martha & Matilda walked; The views on the road were
lovely; but I had no heart to look. To think that Christ had borne the cross
once and for all, and here were these poor creatures, just like the devotees
of India, trying to get to heaven by their own good works; or rather by works
that were of no benefit to any one., but wore out their bodies, and depressed their
souls; Outside the church the band of music played, rockets went up,
a small bazaar, was held, for all sorts of wares. I asked why were
rockets fired when in the day no one could see them, and they
were as prayers.:? no they attracted the people, one mass was ended,
rockets, another mass was to begin; altogether it is the queerest
attempt at religion founded on the Bible. It is like the Samar-
itansRegularized:Samaritans, who served their own gods, & worshipped the God of Heavens
These festas are seasons of gaiety, when friends meet. _ To be sure in
America, we have campmeetingsRegularized:camp meetings, and other occasions, when friends
meet, and religious exercises are carried on, but there we can
hear the Bible read, we hear a sermon in our own tongue.
Here the service is in Latin, and that so mumbled, no one can
tell what it is, now and then a sermon is preached in
Portuguese, but a person may go to church the whole of
their natural lines, and not hear a chapter of the Bible
in the verna_cularRegularized:vernacular. In the prayer books, the service is in
Portuguese, while the priest reads in Latin; the singing is
by the choir. _ I have asked several why then they attended
church, when they did not understand it.? because say they,
we go by faith, faith that the sacrifice of the mass,

70

Faith that our prayers are heard. Such then is the religion of the
State to which these poor people are bound; when we see them going to the
festas, in their gala dresses, playing the macheta & castanets, the flags
flying, and the fire of rockets, we say this is a jolly kind of religion.
But even aside from the penance when we reflect that for the whole of onesRegularized:one's
natural life they may go to church and not hear the Bible read, not have
its comforting passages, how dreary, the heart that depends on images, and flag staffsRegularized:flagstaffs.
In America it is said, by the Catholics, we have these images to
remind us, here in Madeira, they are looked on as the real presence. _
After the festa at the Mount, there were festas in other places, and the
illuminations showed where they were. These are called novenas, or nine days,
festas, the last day is the grandest, then the music is the best & usually
a procession of the patron ^saint of the church or district goes out, round two
or three streets. The people are pleased with these novenas, it diverts
them; At Christmas, it was ^{supposed to be} greater than ever, but not so great as some
other days. _ in Lent, _ The week before Christmas is pig killing time
Christmas came on Sunday, this year. The Sunday before, the
pigs were killed, and a great deal of merriment, went on
as well as squealing of pigs. _ then the people feast, for a
time; they make a preparation called carne de vinagre e hubla,
meat vinegar & garlic, not quite as delicious as Roast
Turkey and plum pudding. _ but very nice. Christmas Eve
the churches are well lighted, and, I went with Matilda
and Jasuino, to Mid nightRegularized:midnight mass. Many candles were
lighted, The music was from Stabat Mater. The priests were
robed in white. After awhile, one candle^{light the candle was hidden}rose, and passed

71

over to one side of the altar, where there was a cradle straightway
the priests went over there and found a baby or a doll, that
answered for one. _ They bent over it, then the organ struck up a joyful air
the priests burned incense before it, (that choked some, made them cough
but I liked it.) then a fat jolly looking priest with robes ample for a
grandmother, took the doll in a tray, and came down the aisle, then two
or three boys in red petticoats and white sacques, went before him,
bearing candles. _ then the faithful, crowded round. Ah Menino
Jesus, and reverentially kissed it, now what was that but idol-
atryRegularized:idolatry, we left the church and came home; I went to sleep,
and next day Christmas _ Martha went to church. _ the rest remained
at home, my sister being a great invalid, but she was wheeled out
to dinner, and for the first time for many years, I took dinner with
my relations: I did think of my poor hospital people, in Texas, ^&, of the
Bayland orphans; This was a quiet day. The boys like young America,
shot of squibs & rockets, on Christmas Eve; but the day is quiet.
The vendors were closed for the one time in the year. Sometimes
of some SaintsRegularized:saint's day, they may close half a day, but not for Sunday. _
then they are open all day long; On Christmas morning, the
bells were ringing from sea side hill side, & mountain top, it sounded
pretty & sweet, and God knows, who served him in spirit and in
truth, and who worshipped the image. Instead of Christmas
trees, they have in every house a LapennaRegularized:Lapinha, that is, a stand,
surrounded by a flight of steps, usually three, on the
Stand, is a doll, dressed in white gauze, trimmed
with silver, this is Menino Jesus, around its head is a glory of silver

72

on the steps, are different articles of ornament, all sorts of toys, images,
before it a lamp is burning, over it all a canopy of flowers, while
the room it is in is trimmed with greens & fruit & flowers. _ This is pretty,
but before this prayers are said, each day: They are kept up for some
time. Six days after, is the gift day; After that things go on quietly. _
The sugar cane begins to ripen, and Lent comes round. _ The Carnival is now
^{I did not go out to see much, save some masqueraders, but they go out as they}
kept with all its wild revelry, and hideous tomfoolery, in America.
^{please and not in processions as in America. _} as well as here, this shows that it is not a religious feeling; Ash Wednesday, _
the first day of Lent, is kept by fasting, and a grand procession. _
I went to see it. First the banner of the Church, _ then, 3 men
in purple silk coats. 1^st bears an hourglass, 2, a skull, 3, bowl of ashes. _
next, image, of Christ bearing his cross, then 5 penitents, covered
with long black veils, then images, Christ before Pilate
The two brothers, CimonRegularized:Simon Cyrenian (black) StSaint Catherine
one StSaint nailed to the cross, &c. there were 14 images life
size, these were borne by men dressed in silk coats, priests
do not bear the heavy burdens; They lay them on other men'sRegularized:mens'
shoulders, after the image before which many knelt, came the host,
all knelt to that, then a long line, of priestRegularized:priests, bearing candles, and
then a band of music, playing a solemn air. _ Crowds came
to witness this, but no one, could tell me the names of all the saints.
Two Sundays after, the agony of Christ, & seven journey
to the cross. The banner, first, then Christ bearing his cross, then
60 penitents, and 70 little children dressed in silk, gauze
& silver, with wreaths, spangles, &c. went as angels, yet curiously
enough, they carried the nails, the hammer, cup spear, sponge, and,

73

ladder. _ at 7 different places, there were altars built, with
very elaborate decorations, at each of these the procession stopped.
The only other image was Virgin Mary. _ long lines of men in silk coats, and
priests bearing candles; The young men that bore the images were of the
best families, (some noted, or notorious for wildness,) & thereby gained great
credit for devotions, Music solemn; on the next Sunday another.
The five images of suffering of Christ. 1^st Bearing his cross. 2.
3. Bound, scourged, bleeding ² wearing a scarlet robe & crown of thorns. _
4 on the cross. 5. in his coffin. After him the Virgin Mary. _
all these images were life-like, and the blood, looked awful. _
The music was solemn, and I went home feeling sad, because I felt
the poor creatures who knelt before them, depended on them,
more than on Jesus Christ, little angels scattered about in the
procession bearing, nails &c as before. _ On Palm Sunday, I went to
the cathedral, to see the palms. Real palms, were decorated, blessed,
and the lessons for the day, were all about the palms, but the priest
read in Latin, only those who had books, and could use them, were ben-
efittedRegularized:benefitted, after the mass, the priests came in procession down the
aisle, out, and round the church. _ chanting, and each bearing
a palm, it was very pretty; Holy water was blessed this day; On
my return from Church, I asked one or two servants, why they kept palm Sun-
dayRegularized:Sunday, one did not know, the other said because, the Holy family on their
flight to Egypt, rested under a palm tree; on the next Thursday the
Bishop washed the disciplesRegularized:disciples' feet, 12 beggars with a ^each suit of new clothes
were seated, in the cathedral. The Bishop with an attendant priest or two
poured a little water over one foot of each beggar, and wiped each

74

one with a clean towel, the ceremony was over and the lesson in
humility taught; the beggars had a little money given to them
next was the procession of Good Friday; From Thursday morning the Cathedral
was darkened, at no clock struck, no bells rang. _ at mid day the procession
consisted of the ^{image of the} body of Christ, ready for burial, & his mother with clasped
hands; following him; just in front the two canons of the church,
not big guns, but priests, they wore black gowns and hoods, the
banner of the church was lowered until almost trailing; after
the image came the Bishop in a robe in a rose color, six priests
held the train. The little angels were enveloppedRegularized:enveloped in black veils. _
The image of the body of Christ, was laid in front of the Altar, and
every Church had one, in some there were angels around, made of
pasteboard and the Virgin Mary, placed near. The devout, came in
and passed on to the images kissed the feet reverentially, then
kissed the hem of Mary's garment. _ The next day Saturday
we went to the cathedral. It was darkened, one at a time small
flickering lights were brought in. This was the lighting afresh of
the sacred fire. The chanting was long and monotonous. _
At last at twelve, the curtains dropped, or were pulled
aside, ^{and displayed the altars, ablaze with light.} the organ played a joyful air, flowers were strewn
by invisible hands. _ and white robed priests embraced
each other; Easter Morning, at nine there was a procession of
the Host, elevated. Every one in the streets knelt. Soldiers and
citizens, no image, but andRegularized:an enormous candle. _ decorated
profuslyRegularized:profusely. _ Music joyful, and little angels, carried flowers,

75

curiously enough the first angel was black. There are very
few negroes here, this one had just come from Brazil. _ but
was dressed as fine as any one. Thus ended Lent. Most persons had
dressed in black, the very devout ^females had worn veils instead of bonnets. _
Easter Monday. Every body went out in a new dress, and there was
much frolicingRegularized:frolicking. Some masqueraders. During Lent, but not belong-
ingRegularized:belonging to it was the procession of the Lady of the Lourdes, March 25.
This is a French saint said to work miracles. She appeared to a
nun out of the cleft of a rock. _ This procession was composed of
young girls dressed in white, with blue trimmings, they carried
banners with inscription Queen of Heaven &c. one little group
in this procession had red trimmings, they bore a banner, the
heart of Jesus: (Now I have heard of the heart of great men being em-
balmedRegularized:embalmed, but the heart of Jesus, never, he rose, and his heart with
him; and ascended above.) On Some one image the Lady of Lourdes.
The other procession belonging to Pagna Church, was image of
a woman finely dressed, with an infant in her hand. I believe
all these Senhoras, I mean Virgin Mary, _ only under some
other name) On May 1 ^st is a procession. All attend it who
can, and the Bishop priests, dignitaries of State, are
trimmed with wreaths of flowers, this is to commemorate
the arrival of the English Ship, with provisions, in time
of a famine. Of course there is some superstition mixed up
"A captain was going past the island, but in a dream one
appeared, told him to go and save the lives of the faithful people.

76

in Madeira. He turned his course, and came, when he went to the
Carmo Church, he saw in the image there, the one who had appeared
in a dream; ) From^In May, the month dedicated to the Virgin, there are
flags flying &c. The ^eve day of San Antoine, is celebrated with bonfires. _
San Antoine is the saint of Portugal. It is said he was very jovial
he had a cousin he was very fond of, he used to run his hands through
her hair: therefore to prevent any improper intimacy, her mother cut
off the beautiful hair. Antoine came and found his pretty cousin
crying over her departed glory; he picked up the curls, placed them
back on her head where they grew, again, but he left, never to
return; Some other miracles he performed, but I do not know what.
StSaint George is honored, because a warrior, coming home from
conquringRegularized:conquering the infidels, met the Host coming out of his Chapel.
The Victor joined the ranks, and went & worshipped in
StSaint George's Chapel; all the cavalry used to go to this procession
The Governor & Officials attend these Officials; processions
Each district has its procession once a year. _ at the end of its
novena, at night the church is illuminated The districts
are all named for some saint, and have one large church
and two or three small oneRegularized:ones. StSaint Peter has a large church
StSaint Paul in StSaint Peter's district has a very small one, only
used about once a year. StSaint John's the same. _ Just now
The Imperio is to be celebrated, the giving a dinner to
twelve beggars. _ in each district, and presenting each
with a large pink. At StSaint John's last year, I saw a

77

number of wax limbs, hanging round the church. _ I inquired the
reason, found that when any one was afflicted in any part, they,
vowed to give some offering, on recovery, gave the cast of the limb
in wax, when these accumulated, they were melted, and made into candles.
for the church; These festas at different churches keep the people
diverted, and keep many of them poor; they fed on husks, because
what spiritual life can there be;? from now June 22 until, Mount
day, it is one festa after another, from Mount day until NovNovember 1.
All Saint's day, it is said to subside, but I noticed last year
it was one after another. All Saints Day; the mass is celebrated
by priests in black robes with yellow robes. _ A bier is
in the aisle, covered with a pall with a cross, just as if
for a funeral. _ on coming out of the church many ask alms
for the sake of departed souls. They give and receive presents on
NovNovember 1 & 9, I do not know why. After that it is festa until Christ-
masRegularized:Christmas. -If anyone comes home from a voyage prosperous he
he gives money for a festa, and some little chapel that only
has service once a year. rejoices in ringing of bells flags
flying &c. Many little chaples are only used for a festa
I think as I go through them. What nice School houses
they would make; I am sure if the Protestant religion
were the prevailing religion, and not State Church the
people would be happier. Much more tolerance is found
here than formerly; I remember when the Bible

78

was forbidden; now a small book Biblical Infancia is used in schools
This Bible contains Bibical stories; and is better than nothing. The book
of instruction for children; also the prayer books are full of prayers to
the Virgin Mary who is honored for more than Jesus Christ, is; While
many saints receive homage due to God alone; There is a saint for each
ailment, Santa Barbara for tooth ache an [...] headache.
Lourdes for blindness; [...]

The priests dress not like men but like women a black
garment tight to the waist full plaited in the back breadth
buttoned from the throat to the feet. _ plain sleeves and
a cape nearly to the waist. The order of Jesuit wear a sash
with fringed ends; hats broad brim, black, low crowned
little boys of 12 begin to wear the suit, some priests have
a cap, it looks 4 cornered, but is divided into 3. The
Bishop's hat is bound with green he wears a large
gold cross, and a ring, every woman and some child
ren stop an kiss the ring, all bow, and some kneel
when he passes; The priests who wear the cornered caps,
also wear a cloak. I think they are of a higher rank
But if they wear (trowsersRegularized:trousers) they are not to be seen,
their dresses are lined with red, which look like
red, petticoats, & black dresses. _ In the church
they dress in robes black skirts white short
gowns or some rich yellow satin cape. _

79

The little boys who wait on them, at the altar wear red skirts ^white5 saques
and I see that the nearer the High Church approaches Rome the longer
the coat and the shorter the cassock. _ Every Sunday afternoon the
children of the parish go for instruction to the Church. Some must
be taught by rote because but few can read. _ At seven years they
go to confession. But with all these festas The Sabbath day is shame-
fullyRegularized:shamefully broken; Tis true in the early morning we see them going to mass
then the shops are opened, and work goes on, although not to that
extent in the cities, for instance building does not go on, but
many wash, work in the fields _ consequently many do not work
on Monday very well. Two vendors near us have only been closed twice
Christmas day and Easter Monday. _ Sunday they do a lively trade
There are now free schools in every district, but many do not send
for want of clothes, or because they want the children to work
one thing they do teach their children, that is politeness._
and the contrast to the ill mannered darkeys in America
is very great. Even among the better class, they do
not seem to care for literature. A parlor is
furnished without books as I can not speak the
language myself I cannot speak as to the cultiva-
tionRegularized:cultivation of many. They are mostly agreeable lively, very
strict in matters of etiquette. .

80

Funchal crops.

The principal dependence of the people of Madeira is the grape vine
and the sugar cane; The vine does not require much water but the
cane does therefore the land is irrigated; The vine is subject to a
disease to remove which it is sprinkled with sulphur just now
when the grape are formed the leaves are picked away from around
them; the grape vine is trained on a frame more overhead and
as much as possible on a slant. there are some kinds are trained
on a pole like the hop vines. In September the grapes are
gathered and pressed, the juice is sold to those who make it into
wine. The pressing of grapes is a curiosity, a large, press which
is about 12 ft square and 3 deep the grapes are thrown
in, a beam extends across, 5 or 6 men get into the press
tramp on the grapes_ a basket is hung in the spout by
which the juice runs into the vat. When all the juice
is pressed by the feet the skins are gathered and pressed
by means of ropes wound round them; and the heavy
beam presses down and squeezes out the last drops of
juices that is measured and sold; Some say that where
there is good wine men do not get drunk, but they
do, and did even in Noah's time. Many passages
in Scripture come to mind. Thus I have trodden the
wine press alone in Isaiah 68 and in Matthew,
Mark 2.-^v22 old wine into new bottles in new version.
skins.

81

New wine is put into new goat skins._ then both expand
goats are killed and skinned as nearly whole as possible
any rents sewn of tier securely. _ the skins filled with
new wine, and I suppose the old skins used for old wine
It is a pity that anything so nice as a grapes as strengthening as a
little wine should be so perverted as to make fools of people. _ Wine
is a mocker says the wise man; but then the Sugar cane, that,
can be made into sugar, is capable of producing a beverage as
intoxicating as whiskey, so Satan takes toll of all;
Corn is cultivated to some extent but much is imported from
Morocco, what is fine and a good deal is ground here
vegetables of all kinds are plentiful; and every corner of land is
cultivated, Bananas all the year round. In Texas we call
them trees, here they are called plants only one bunch
grows on one plant, then the plant is cut down, figs
pears, apples, loquats, peaches, cherries, come in turn with
the more tropical fruits as guavas, custard apples,
alligator pears, mangoes & pawpaws, melons,
are good. watermelons I do not care for here _
it is not hot enough for as cooling a fruit
^{June 24} Lemons grow and oranges although during some years past
the orange trees have failed they are now growing again
The tangerene, is a small orange with a fragrant rind. _
The Azores cultivate many oranges - of a fine quality

82

Coffee grows of a fine quality, also the chicory, with which to
adulterate it, coffee on a tree or shrub chicory on a small plant. _
Coffee is subject to an insect that destroys it, so are all plants
one after another. Corn dwindles. Potatoes, and all vegetables, are
almost indigenous, but the poor people cultivate them to sell
their living being corn meal, boiled milk or much being
the staple dish of Madeira. _ The grape vine is the principal
dependence of the people, _ sulphur is used, to destroy the insect
that kills it. Sulphur is sprinkled, on the vines; Flax, grows, _
and is spun on a spindle & distaff. It is not possible to say what
does not grow here, it seems to me as if the tropics had met to pour
their products here. The temperature gives the apple pear cherry straw-
berryRegularized:strawberry. The tropics the coffee, sugar cane, grape, custard apple
& mango, and the stately Palm.

83

Customs.

It is almost like an Eastern story, to walk through this island. _
The old walls, the vines, fig trees, the primitive habits. The wine in
new bottles or skins I have noticed, the skins of goats being the bottle
stretching out with the new wine; Then "I have trodden the wine press
alone" & "who is he that cometh from Edom with dyed garments from Bozrah." _
is exclaimed when we look at the wine press. Isaiah
In new Testament Two women shall be grinding, &c. The old grindstone
upper and nether are still to be seen; While in the market place
are men waiting to be hired as laborers in a vineyard
The dress of the country people is not always as picturesque
as it was some years ago. Then it was always a bright strip-
pedRegularized:striped skirt a bodice of black laced down the front, a cape
or capa of bright red, or blue, with vandyke collar. _ and
a carapace or pointed cap on the heard; white untanned
leather boots, now the shirt and capa are often worn
and a white handkerchief on the heard, few wear
bonnets, they carry long sticks to assist climbing
the steep hills; The men wear the same dress
that an Englishman would wear except the cap
carapace; only none of them ever look English. _

84a

Customs Churches

Many have white pants, and all the white part of their
clothing, is so beautifully white and they are neat and
well mended; as it is often cool I think sometimes the
people, especially children suffer from cold. _ as they go with
their one airy garment. The one drawback is the numerous
saints days and the work on Sundays. Saints days are kept,
to worship some saint. Sundays are then broken by work-
ingRegularized:working to make up for it, _thus the two great sins, Idolatry
and Sabbath breaking, are rampant in the land
The Protestant Churches, are the English and ScotchRegularized:Scottish.
The English, are Episcopalians, & ScotchRegularized:Scottish Presbyterian. _
The ScotchRegularized:Scottish Church has made the most efforts to instruct
the natives in something like religion; They have estab-
lishedRegularized:established schools where the native children can be taught
in the word of the God; and they have service for the
Portuguese every Sunday afternoon. Years ago, they
suffered great persecution, for the sake of Christ,
but the religion of Rome must be very gloomy. _
and ah, how little we prize the religion of the Bible
until we see those with are deprived of it, how they
love to hear it; Those who left here years ago for the
sake of finding a place to worship God, have gone to
Trinidad or America where under the rule of the Saxon,
they can worship in peace. _

84b

Walks. 1882.

^{June 28} I shall notice my daily walks. One I took this morning, along
the new road. This is a road that runs along the sea-side, smooth
and shaded with trees; on each side above and below are the
fazendas of sugar cane and vineyards. The man who first
introduced the sugar cane. Sobreano Ferraz died a few days
ago. he was looked upon as a benefactor by the poor people
here. He had a very large mill and if they would make rum
as well as sugar perhaps he was not to blame; The country
people, came in, in crowds with their backets on their heads, and
sticks in their hands: and oftentimes their shoes, also, and when
they near town they set down and put them on. On this new
road as it crosses a river is a bridge of masonry. it is very
high, and the rocks sharp underneath. _ From this bridge
although guarded by a high railing, those who are tired of
life even here throw themselves over. About two weeks
ago a man threw himself over, a woman saw him
tried to stop him, but could not. I have heard
it was the old story of unrequited affection, be
that as it may, many stop and look over, some
pray, cross themselves, but the lover's leap is a spot
of interest to all passer'sRegularized:passers by. _ Another committed
suicide a few days after at a place called
pont de Cabello, _ In the early morning it is pleasant,

85

to walk on this road. to meet the peasants comming in, to
see the sledges drawn by oxen. one man up this road has a
cart a heavy flat bottomed affair but it has two solid wheels
Along this road the two or three wheeled vehicles can go. _
it is ^a very pleasant ride no doubt. a ride on horse back at an
early hour is of great benefit. _