Mirabeau B. Lamar travel journal, 1835 [Digital Version]

1

Journal. 1 [Columbus, Georgia]

Having resolved to visit Texas with a
view of settling there, if pleased with the
province, I left my place of residence, Co-
lumbus Regularized:Columbus Georgia, on Monday 15^th June 1835,
and without meeting with any occurrence of
note, arrived in Montgomery on the evening of
the 16^th .
I had three fellow passengers in the Stage,
one of whom was a man from Texas, but who
could doubtless have given me much informa‑
tionRegularized:information which I desired, but he was to my eye so
unprepossingRegularized:unprepossessing a personage that I was not
disposed to contract any acquaintance with
him, and chose rather to loose the knowledge
which I might gain from him than encoun‑
terRegularized:encounter the annoyance of his familiarity. Another
passenger was a gentleman of the United States
Army by the name of McKenzie, with the
rank, I should suppose of Captain; a man
of good sense, politeness and hansomeRegularized:handsome attainments.
He was one of the number sent to Fort Moultrie
for the purpose of draggooning Regularized:dragooning South Carolina out
of her rights and overawing her into submission
to intolerable outrage & wrongs, but I believe he
had no heart for the infernal job, and would no

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doubtless have resigned his commission in
disgust rather than have proceeded to any violence
against the injured and insulted State. He
was I believe known to be a Nullifier and the only
one among the number sent on the bloody errand,
and was in consequence of his opinions sent ^ordered to
Savannah where he was entrusted with an inde‑
pendentRegularized:independent Command. He was also with the
troops in Cherokee Country, Geo, but In on all

such ^{ungracious errands} occasions, it is believed he so deported him‑
selfRegularized:himself as to secure the confidence, of all parties; of
the Govt.. by faithful execution of duty and of the
community he dwelt among, by not abusinRegularized:abusing legiti‑
mate authority or invol arrogating any undelegated.
The third passenger whose name I do not know,
manifested for me a degree of solicitude for
my safety in a moment of some little peril which
could not fail excite my good feelings toward him.
at Inchee Creek 13^th miles from Columbus, the
night dark, the horses darted off the buttment
of the Bridge, and threw the driver from his
seat. I was the only passenger in the Stage. I felt
the vehicle reeling off the Bridge & expected every
moment to land with an awful splash & a crush
at the bottom of the Creek, but more fortunately
than might have looked for, the Stage bounded like
a living animal from the Bridge and safely

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landed on its four leggsRegularized:legs, I mean the four wheels.
the driver holding on to the reins, soon stopedRegularized:stopped
the fiery steeds, and after a proper flagellation
for their lawless conduct, he attempted the Bridge
a second time & crossed without difficulty. The
passengers resumed their seats, and I was rather
pleased than otherwise with the adventure, be‑
causeRegularized:because it made the driver, in resentment, double
the speed of his common gait, and dash along
at the comfortable & cheering rate of 6 notsRegularized:knots an
hour. The generous passenger who felt alarmed at
my situation, ran to the coach as she slr
cleared the Bridge to awaken me, believing me
to be a sleepRegularized:asleep, and earnestly entreated me to make
my escape out of the window before the horses
should rusht Regularized:rushed down the Banks. In this he
evinced a good heart, a benevolent principle, &
which more excites my admiration and affection
than personal accomplishments or intellectual
attainments. The road to Montgomery was in
good order; the tavern at which we stoped Regularized:stopped was
of the first rate, and every thing during my
abidance there contributed to make my ^the delay
rather acceptable than irksome. Between Columbus
& Montgomery I met with but little that excited reflection or worthy of description.
The reader may possibly have some desire
to learn something about this Town as it is one of

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the most business-like & flourishing one in
the State.

(Give an account of the death of Mr Lucas,
by Barney Riley. Beverly Lucas brother to John,
was also Killed by Indian. The m murderer
is known yet no steps have been taken to appre‑
hend Regularized:apprehend him & bring him to justice.)

(In describing Montgomery, remember Corney Buck,
Flat, Milton Cooper & others. Huff a Sawyer who
shot himself "all for love". Judge Shaw. Bynum.)


Left Montgomery on Friday 19^th June in the
"Little Rock" about 4 Oclk Regularized:o'clock. The river was said to
be low, but to me it appeared in good navigable con‑
ditionRegularized:condition. The little rock as she is small but also sub‑
stantiallyRegularized:substantially put together & has an Engine of considerable
power. Several passengers aboard, but with the ex‑
ception Regularized:exception of two gentlemen, they were I believe all
either illiterate but honest cultivators of the soil or
equally ignorant but more insolent and trickey Regularized:tricky dealers
Dry Goods & Groceries — Addison says that men should
be ashamed of but two things Ignorance & Vice. How
sha bashful should the most of our planters be! How
doubly so should be the majority of the mercantile world.

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But that which Addison considers a reproach the
Many esteem a virtue themselves for it. With many
Ignorance is bliss & dishonesty only cleverness.

The Alabama is a Noble River. It takes its name
from two Indian words Ala. signifying the Great
and Bama, water; the great river. The word
Ala. ha is also an Eastern or Arabic word meaning
God; by the Indians it is also used in that sense;
to signify the Great Spirit; the head of all etc. Some
writers have, in consequence of such occasional sim‑
ilarity Regularized:similarity in language, conjectured that the indians are
descendants from the Eastern Nations — Col. McKiney
formerly of the War Department, is about writing a
most valuable & interesting work concerning the
various Tribes of Indians; I had the pleasure of
reading an introductory chapter of work; and if
I remember a right he exposes the fallacy of
deriving the Indian race from the Arabs on so
slight a ground as occasionally similarity of words
in their respective languages.

The country through which Alabama River flows
is very fertile, & well adapted to Corn & Cotton.
For some distance the Banks are elevated, and occasion‑
ally Regularized:occasionally exhibit very high & romantic Bluffs — One or
two particularly struck my attention; At Washington

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one below that place and at Fort Butler.
Washington is a Small Village, containgRegularized:containing about
200 hundred inhabitants, in a handsome & healthy
site. The next town below is Vernon; and then

Benton ^Selma, all of the same class. Cahawba about
sixty miles by land from Montgomery is situated
on the East side of the river. It was formerly the
seat of Govt. of the State. It has been neglected for
several years but is at this time rather in a state
of improvement. Claiborn is 150 miles above Mobile.
The plantations on the river are fine, but the most
of them are subject to overflowing. The junction of
the Tombecbee & Alabama is about 50 miles above
Mobile. The low country from the junction as also
some miles above it is low and flat, all subject
to inundation. We meet lower with many splendid
farms. In high water, the houses on the plantations
are submerged in water; it rises two or three feet or more
in the floors. After leaving Claiborn some miles,
we meet with Live Oak; it becomes more & more
abundant as we approach the Bay. Among the
things which I noted as curious or worthy of obser‑
vationRegularized:observation, were three; viz. An Eagle's Nest. It was on the
very end of a large old branchless tree standing near
the water's edge. The pilot of the boat told me he
had seen it several times this spring about its nest;
that he had been informed by older pilots than

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himself who had been long running the river, that
the Eagle had been seen to build there for many
past. This is I believe a peculiarity of the Eagle.—
The seconRegularized:second item— was the disgraceful fact ^of a planter's
making his negroes work on the SabathRegularized:Sabbath. I regret that none
of the passengers aboard knew the man; I was anxious
to obtain his name that I might hold up him up
to scorn & detestation; and that he may yet not escape
detection, I will mention that the plantation is I believe
the first extensive one above the junction of the rivers.
The negroes were engaged in clearing a new ground; the
overseer was setting lazily on his horse in the midst
of the negroes. The clearing seemed to be an extensive
one, reaching a mile or more up the river, widingRegularized:widening and
narrowing as the swamp at the back of the field permitted.
I know no man who more deserves punishment of the laws
& the chastisement of public scorn. The third item— is
a coloured man by the name of Seymore; I think
Philip Seymore, living below the junction of the
rivers on a fine farm and owning, as I was told
by the pilot, Must upwards of 40 negroes. I saw
him and one of his daughters on the banks of
the river, but were not near enough to make ob‑
serveRegularized:observe the beauty of the lady or to make any
phrenological observation on the old gentleman—

The Tombegbee at its mouth presents a beau‑

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appearance. A small ^green Island rises at the the
junctions. The waters are bright & smootheRegularized:smooth and
spread out like a tranquil lake-few miles 20 miles
below above the junctions there I saw the appearance
of a large Creek and ^on asking the name of the
stream was told that it was called the “cut off”-
that ^is a channel or communication between the
two rivers, making o occupying the same position to
them as the dash or [Illegible: hair line] crop line connecting the
two prongs of the letter A. below the junction the
river, which is now called Mobile, forks, or rather
one breaks boldly from the other and runs upon its
own hook. I thought at first that the united
again but was told that they did not. The left
prong in descending was called the Tensaw and
discharged itself in Same Bay but on the oppo‑
siteRegularized:opposite side of a the town of Blakely. To me it
seemed the larger of the two prongs, and I was told
equally deep and good for navigation as the Mo‑
bileRegularized:Mobile river. I look upon the Tensaw as a part of
or continuation of the Tombgbee, merely crossing
the Alabama river as one road crosses another—
The Tensaw has a cutoff counting the A cutoff
connects Tensaw and Mobile rivers in the same man‑
nerRegularized:manner as the Cutoff above described connects Tombgbee &
Alabama.
I saw many of the blue crane, but only two of the

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white species. Long before we reach mobile we
wind our way through a flat marshy country that
can never be subjected to cul the plough & hoe—
the city rose to view about 7 miles off. We approach‑
edRegularized:approachedfirst about it by twilight. A storm had cooled
the atmosphere and it delightful & refreshing. Our
journey closed with the close of day, and — It was
sabathRegularized:sabbath evening. No noise, no bustle of business greeted
our enterance; all was tranquil & placid and I
as far as I could judge, the feelings of all the passengers
partook of the serenity of ^{of the weather} and peacefulness of scenes
around them.

We arrived in Mobile Sunday night . evening;
it was nearly dark. I ordered my Trunk to the
Mansion House, but not being abbleRegularized:able to obtain
there lodgings as comfortable and convenient as I
desired, I removed to the Alabama Hotel where I
was accomodatedRegularized:accommodated with all I desired. I was not so
fortunate at the Mansion House as my traveling
Companion Lieut.. McKenzie. I was told that there
was no single room in the house unoccupied & con‑
sequentlyRegularized:consequently could not be furnished; But my worthy
Companion, Knowing the influence & authority of titles
with the Boniface race, he, in booking his name, took
the precaution to place after it the all important, potent
powerful letters L.t. of Mobile Point; When the Landlord

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or his striker discovered these initials of dignity,
he immediately proffered to the gentleman a handsome
apartment to himself and actually turned out [Illegible: anst]
gentleman from the room who had been occupying
it to make way for the military guest. Now having
no title myself; no L.t. to M.C. or J. P. to place after
^{or appengeRegularized:append to my}signature, I was peremptorily informed that I could not
be furnished with single lodgings, & had consequently to
shift my quarters ^{to a place} where room was more abundant and
titles regarded less necessary ^{indispensible} to the security & obtainance &
security of ^needful comfort & attentions.

Sitting one evening on the Bow of the boat, an unassu‑
ming Regularized:unassuming & intelligent gentleman, approached me, and
inquired how far south, I purposed to prosecute my
Journey. I answered that I was on my way to
Texas. I am pleased to hear it he replied, for I
am thither bound myself and shall be pleased with
company. [Illegible: He] On inquiry I found that he was from
Putnam County, that he Knew me well; was first
cousin to Mr. Moreland my Brother-in Law. His name
was Saddler.
Give an account of Dale's fight with the Indians
In Montgomery I had a tooth drawn.

Mobile

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Arrived sunday, departed Wednesday
morning for the Stage. Mobile is a delightful
City; about the size of Augusta, containing
probably upwards of Seven thousand inhabitants
Property is uncommonly high; town lots increa‑
singRegularized:increasing in value daily. Rents for the best store-hous‑
es Regularized:storehouses is from two to three thousand dollars pr annum.
I met with Dr. Roberts; he looks instatuquo; He is
doing tolerably well; his sons are succeeding well;
The Joel is Merchant, Sam^l Alexr. is now absent
will probably remove to Texas to act as an Agent
to a Land Company. Olivia Mrs. Mather, spends this
summer in New York. Mrs.. Roberts is dead; I
saw her grave; and that also of her daughter's
Emily, they sleep side by side— With Col. Milton
I took a ride about two miles to view the
Bay. The edge of the Bay the eddy waters, is filled
large logs & trees broughRegularized:brought down the rivers during
freshets. The For miles round, the country about
Mobile is perfectly level. I supped with Milton
at Summerville; about two miles from town; or
rather it is (although out of the Corporate limits) a
part of Mobile, for the houses are stretched along
like a village all the road to the way to Summerville.
Summerville is a delightful place. More charming
residences; more lovely & attractive retreat from the

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bustle of the City I never beheld. I know of no
place in the most cultivated & improved parts of
the Northern States that can vie with it for
beauty & comfort. Every lot is a Hoboken. Col.
Milton gave four thousand dollars for his lot
containing six acres, and can now sell it for 10 or
100 thousand— The College is about a mile from
Summerville or may rather he said to be in
the village. There is one Church here open to
every denomination— I heard a Phrenologist
give two nights lecture on his science and was
much pleased & entertained— This Science if true
does not necessarily destroy all moral accountability
as the religious world supposes. No artist, no sculpture
can so chisel out a man from marble to stand on
his feet alone; if he gives it the human shape
it will be certain to fall to the ground. Why then
does not man fall like the statue? By what prin‑
cipleRegularized:principle does he maintain his erect posture? Certainly
he does it against all laws of gravitation; he does it
by the power of his will; gravitation would drags
him constantly to the earth but his will is suffi‑
cientlyRegularized:sufficiently to destroy or counteract its force. And so with the
man who has a strong development of murder; he is
not necessarily a murder because he has the organ
in an eminent degree. He has the propensity, but

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New Orleans

14

Arrived Thursday morning June —
From Mobile took the Stage to Porter'sville, where we
were received by the steamboat Otto; [Illegible: left] the shore
about five OclkRegularized:o'clock Wednesday evening, & crossing lake
Pontchertrain Regularized:Pontchartrain that night, reached point where the
Railroad meets the Lake, about 10 OclkRegularized:o'clock ; twenty more minutes
passed us over the railroad & landed us in Orleans.
The first thing that struck my attention was the dis‑
gustingRegularized:disgusting filthiness of the place. The offensive assaults
which were constantly made upon my olfactories
disqualified me for some time from noticing making
observations. The railroad is an expensive one,
costing to erect it upwards of one millions of dollars as
I should guess; yet it is esteemed good property. It
is between 5 & 6 miles in length—
One of our passengers in the Stage from Mobile,
stated that the object of his visit to N.O. Regularized:New Orleans was to
notice the country between Mobile & Portersville on
the Lake, as he designed to petition to the next
Legislature of Alabama for a charter to erect a rail‑
roadRegularized:railroad from the one point to the other. The country is
as favorable for the object as possible, that is for a
wooden railway; the ground nearly the whole distance
is a perfect level, sandy piney woods, well timbered, and
a road might be constructed like the Charleston railway
for three thousand per mile.

15

The Stage driver told me that, that was his last
trip on that road-the route was about to be abandoned
and the mail taken for the future from Mobile all
to Orleans all the way by water by way of Pascagoula;
the Boats were now in readiness for the object;
I saw one, (a Steam Schooner) at Mobile to be thus
employed— it was a large strongly built vessel, not
finely done, and as I was told could run superior
to most any of the boats. I was much pleased with
the construction myself; uniting in a graceful manner
the excellencies of two distinct species, combining wind
and fire alternately triumphing over the waters by
wind & then by fire— If the Mail should be taken
permanently by water to Orleans via Pascagoula; it
will bring this point into some repute as a place
of safe & fashionable retreat, both from N.O. Regularized:New Orleans and
Mobile during the sickly months. It can never
be anything more a place of pleasant resort for
health, having no fertile county around, no trade
connected with it. What then will become of
the rail road from Orleans to Pontchertrain Regularized:Pontchartrain? If that route
be abandoned as a mail route, will it not affect the
value of the rail road? The citizen from Montgomery
already alluded to, should he carry his projected of
a rail road from Porter'sville to Mobile into [Illegible: execution]
which of the two ways will meet with the most
patronage, the one by this rail road or the steam
boat route via Pascagoula They will be rivals—

16

Religion in Orleans. 16
This place has one advantage of over many
others, in religious matters, and it is in this, that
if they have but little of it , they make but little
pretentions. There are several churches of various
denominations, but I apprehend they are less croudedRegularized:crowded
than their rivals, the gambling houses & theaters.
I entered a Methodist Book Store and bought a [...]
Mr. Maffett's address delivered but a short time since
on laying the corner-stone of the Methodist Episcopal
Church. I was much pleased with the address; it dis
played Regularized:displayed much imagination, richness of language,
and appropriateness; it was rather too flowery for the
common taste; it is a good specimen of the florid style.
The Keeper of the Book store seemed to be a pious &
sedate man; I should say he was a good hearted benev—
olent Regularized:benevolent man, he was at least kind & polite to me in
answering a few interrogations which an inflated &
self important gentleman might have deemed imper—
tinent.Regularized:impertinent I learnt from him the sign ^{that the front of the} of the church,
which is was to be 61 feet 6 inches in . He showed me a
plan of it. it was to be a fine building in every way
suitable to the City in which it is to be erected. ^{and also simple substantial in character with the plain habits} It is
^{and durable principles of the denomination — It will}will stand on Puydrass & Carondolet streets — I was
told by him that the Methodist denomination were few
in number; but that the citizens of Orleans had contrib‑
uted.Regularized:contributed with a liberal hand to the erection of the building.

17

In a few days a splendid Collation was to be
given to the Judge, Jury & friends , in honor of a
decision of a law point by recently made in the
Supreme Court. It appears that the whole of the
Upper Fouxburg was once owned by an old citizen
of the place by the name of Poultney. The ground
has long since been laid off into lots, sold, and built
upon. It joins the western part of the city, but is not
within the corporate limits. Fouxburg is a word sy‑
nonimous Regularized:synonymous with that of Parish, beats, or districts. The
heirs of Poultney sued for the recovery of the land
on the grounds that it had never been bona-fiedly
sold by their ancestor. The occu ground had was now
crowded with buildings and had passed uninterruptedly
from hand ^to hand; and should the claim of the heirs
be established the wealth it would bring to them
wealth unbounded, & to the occupants ruin irre‑
mediable.Regularized:irremediable The decision of the Court was against the
claimants & the contemplated Collation is in honor
of that verdict. The Fouxburg I believe is called
the Parish of Lafayette. This parish is now a city for it
was incorporated as such in the year the the Legislature—
I attended the French Theatre; a splendid Opera
had been gotten up, but not understanding the langu‑
ageRegularized:language & the weather being intolerably warm, I left
after the second act. I forget the name of the piece;
it was never before performed in the US. The house

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was croudedRegularized:crowded to overflowing. I looked through the
boxes to see if I could meet with beauty; I saw not
a female face which I thought pretty or tolerably
hansomeRegularized:handsome. I gave them credit for one thing the
neatness with which they done up their hair. illegible
Glancing my eye up into the gallery illegible
occupied by the quarterooms, I saw as illegible great
a dearth of beauty there as among the whites below.
The American theater was closed.
The first theatre in New Orleans was in the year-
During the revolt of the negroes in St. Domingo the
larger portion of the whites were murdered; some
few made their escape, among the number, a com‑
panyRegularized:company of actors, who arrived in N.O. Regularized:New Orleans and resumed
their profession in that place—

I visited but few of the public buildings; the
hospitableRegularized:hospital is a large and imposing building; and
I am told well regulated. Perhaps there is not its
equal for neatness & cleanliness in the U.S. They are
of the filthiest cities, can boast of the cleanest hospital.

Friday night June 26^th. sitting in the public room
at Bishop's I heard some noise & loud laughing in the
street immediately in front of the door. I found that
a Constable had some suspected thief durance vile
He was tied upon a horse led by the officer.

19

The prisoner on being questioned by some of the
bye standersRegularized:bystanders as to the cause of his present predica‑
mentRegularized:predicament, he replied that his ancleRegularized:ankle had been sprained
and the gentleman leading the horse was kind enough
to take him to the hospitableRegularized:hospital — On being asked why
his arms & legs were pinioned he replied that
having taken little too much of strong water, he
was not able to maintain his perpendicular position
on the horse with some such assistance-In this
manner he laughed & joked; and concluded by
saying that he had had bad luck that night, for
in spite of good arms, good will, & good efforts to Kill
the rascal that had taken him, he failed in his ob‑
jectRegularized:object. Yes retorted the officer, but with your bad
luck you had some good, for if my pistol had been
as true as she usually is you would be saved the
disagreeableness of and the State the expense of a trial.
“And I should have lost all the pleasure of this
ride through the City free of expense” continued
the prisoner coldly. It appears that the prisoner
& the Constable had exchanged a couple of shots at
each other, but both neither taking effect, they
closed in with each other for a tusselRegularized:tussle. The prisoner
was over powered & surrendered; but he called upon
the officer to do him the justice to say that he had
not surrendered until he was entirely wore exhausted,
the Constable bore testimony to his courage & determination.

20

The unconquered temper of the prisoner ^had enlisted some
little sympathy in his behalf, when one of the
by standersRegularized:bystanders observed that he would as leave assist
in rescuing him as not— no response was given— the
officer proceeded with his charge to the Calaboose— as he
marched off, the man who was for rescue, remarked
that he knew the Constable well and that a greater
rascal dwelt not in the City. I expect to see some
little fun, but the whole affair passed off without pro‑
‑ ducingRegularized:producing a breeze; & I retired to bed— twas just 12—

There is scarcely a night but what some robbery
is committed; and hardly a day without a duel.
This the only mode of settling disputes here. the
most trivial affair is adjusted in this manner. Two
men quarrel, about, no matter what, a pin, or dog or
straw, and soon we hear an explosion; the quarrel is
ended for one or both the parties are silenced forever.
The thing is no sooner said than done. I was told
that there were at one time 27 duels here in one
day. It is quite common to have two or three
before breakfast. A few weeks ago two young
creoles, rivals perhaps in love, not will were procee‑
dingRegularized:proceeding to the field of honor, and perceiving that they had
been discovered & would be arrested, they immediately
fell to with swords, and litterally carved each other up.
They had fought each other twice before with pistols

21

and now the third trial with swords. Such occurrences
are so frequent that they produce no sensation at
all in society; it is hardly mentioned by any one.
This morning I am told that there is a prospect of
a fight next monday; Yesterday there were two
duels fought, two of the combatants fell; no one
scarcely knows of it & I heard it accidently from a
boy who was praising the skill & courage of the
parties— Saturday 27. Another duel; the result I
have not heard.

I said the American theatre was not open;
but to nightRegularized:tonight 27^th.. I entered a small room up two
[Illegible: ft] stairs, 20 feet square, where were assembled some
30 or 40 persons the most heterogenous mass; listening
to what was called ^{in the bills of the morning} a “Theatrical Entertainment.” The
propretressRegularized:proprietress (for it was a woman) was the only female
of the Corps, except her little daughter about 7 years old
who acted Young Norval, & his mother the aforesaid
mistress of the company, the character of lady Randolph.
She was the most abominable of all ugly looking women.
I never beheld a more ill shaped figure & face in a
female. When Norval he enquiredRegularized:inquired whether his father
surpassed all men in valor as she did her sex in beauty,
there was a universal roar of laughter. When she spoke
of her poor remains of beauty, I could not help from saying
to myself what a mighty ship wreck of charms!

22

The lady knew not only her own part well, but that
of every other character; she acted as prompter, and
after finishing her speech, in almost every instance
had to begin the answering one for those whom she
was dialoguing. She gave the clue in an audible voice
as if it were a portion of her own part. Several ^Sometimes times
she failed to be so prompt, and the Glenalvia in one
or two instances, becoming [Illegible: impation] of delay in the
looked for assistance thundered out, “Why dont you give
the clue”! The lady sang and it was as musical
as an nighting owl or an owlinRegularized:howling gale. She spoke
Philip's Eulogy on Washington, “speak the speech I
pray thee”- in a double hoarse monotonous voice without
modulation and without gestures. The orchestra was com‑
‑ posedRegularized:composed of two fidlersRegularized:fiddlers and one fifer. They were all
in their shirt sleeves and one of the Knights of the
catgut & rosin fell fast asleep in the middle of
Basney Glanajin; his hat which he had not taken off
fell over his eyes, his bow from his hand and soon
began to snore bass to his more wakeful companions
music and then I thought what a “concord of sweet
sounds.” The company met with uproarious applause
in which I contributed my due share.

Give specimens of their speaking and the coloquyRegularized:colloquy
which went be with the actors and the audience and
the musicians during the progress of the play. The
lady in the midst of her pathetic speeches would stop &
reprimand the fiddlers & tell some of the audience to be silent.

23

A night or two ago two persons were found dead
together in a room, with impelements of death in
their hands or lying near them; It was thought at
first that they had quarreled, fought & killed each
other, but suspicion soon feel on a third party, who
when apprehended confessed that he and another
individual had killed them; he made this confes‑
sionRegularized:confession in hopes of becoming States evidence & thereby save
himself from the gallows. The person who assisted
him in the murder, went stooped down at one of
hydrens to wash the blood from his hands, when the
other murderer, apprehensive that he might be
betrayed his associate & accomplice, drew his dirk
and stabbed him in the back. The fal wounded
culprit is not yet dead.

Several speeches were delivered at the collation given
by the Parish of Lafayette to the Judge Jury etc—
The property claimed by Putnys heirs is said to
be worth 4 or 5 million dollars— I believe The
collation took place to dayRegularized:today Saturday 27—

In the evening in front of the tavern a party
commenced joking one another; an Irish man
among the number stated that Lord Somebody per‑
hapsRegularized:perhaps Lord Derby, as he is famous in the annals of
Cockfighting, owned 7 thousand Cocks— On, one occa—
Regularized:occasion

24

sion he bet 25 thousand pounds — his first
Cock in the fight ran, and his lordship had
immediately the throats cut of 15 hundred cocks
which had been descended from the aforesaid dom=
iniccoRegularized:Dominico
. This tale was so extravgent Regularized:extravagant that several
persons other in ridicule of it still more extravagant.
One man requested the author of the cock story to
give another edition of Baron Munchausan. You
must excuse him replied an otherRegularized:another, he is an IrashmanRegularized:Irishman.
“And is not an Irishman” exclaimed the exasperated
narrator of the cock tale “as good as any body else?”
He may be so with me, but not so in the eyes of
all; for as I was once going up the red river aboard
of a steam boat, I had an occasion to borrow an
auger from a Settler along the banks. I sent an Irish
after the instrument; when I was done using it, I
told the same Irishman to take the auger back
to the owner. “No by Jasus says he I will go there again
For what do you think! when I went to borrow the
varmint, I saw the lady of the who told me to go to
her husband; & where is your husband says I, at the
stables says she; thither I went and meeting the a
black graseyRegularized:greasy nigger, I asked for the master of the prem‑
isesRegularized:premises; he announced himself as such. When I returned to
the house for the auger I asked the lady if that nigger was
her husband; she said yes; I told her she was bad
off? Not so bad off, she replied as her sister; for she

25

poor girl was married to an Irishman-

Sunday 28^th New Orleans.
This day I attended Church. I enquired the way to
the Methodist Church; for some time I met no one
who could direct me; I heard a Bell, & was told by a
negro that that was at the Methodist Church. Turning
the corner the building rose upon my view; it was a large
spacious structure, and seemed to be quite old & antiquated
in its style of architecture; On entering its portals, I found
a sign board on the wall directing strangers to pews
on the right hand. The clock in the Steeple, the appe‑
aranceRegularized:appearance of the building and still more the sign board
notice to strangers, all indicated some other denomina—
tionRegularized:denomination than the simple & unostentatious disciples of Wesley.
Satisfied that this could not be the Methodist house
of worship, I enquiredRegularized:inquired of a lad who Directed me to
a small wooden building not distant off. Thither
I went and from the plainess of the seats, the size and
style of the building I found no difficulty in recognizing
it as a Methodist Church, or at least a church in
character with that unostentatious denomination. I was
in hopes of hearing Mr. Maffitt; some other person
preached & preached a good sermon; the congregation
was small, but I could have told from their meek
& simple manners, their plain but tasteful dressing, [Illegible: free]
from furbelowsyet remarkably genteel, that they be‑

26

belonged to other schools than that of the french, or
yankee— I now felt for the first time that I was
in the midst of people like myself; there was no I am
certain that the white congregation were all southern
people & the negroes also from the south. They appeared
totally different from the rest of the population of the city—
There was no french lankness, no creole complexion, no
city extraviganceRegularized:extravagance and bold impudence, but all plain, neat
modest, hansome, fair skin enbonpoint and unaffectedness.
I knew they must be Georgians.— The gallery was
filled with negroes who resembled in appearance & many
those of the south & different from the blacks raised here
as the southerners are from French or Yankee— The ^yankee
PresbeteriansRegularized:Presbyterians make a loud noise about the religious im‑
‑ provementRegularized:improvement of the negroes, but I believe they [...] seldom
make any effort to get them to join their church; I
know in Columbus, they heven have not provided any
seats for the negroes in their church. The methodist
I believe are the only sect that has sincerely done any
thing for the negroes; a large portion of their congregation
and majority members are blacks. When I contrasted
the effective simplicity of the Methodist style of preaching,
building etc, with the cold blooded hypocrisy of the north,
and the [Illegible: orthodox] superstitious & preposterous rites of the
Catholic Church, I said to myself, if ever I be a
preacher, I will be a methodist one, to divetdivest my labors
among the poor, humble, neglected and needy—

27

Joel Parker [Illegible: Presbyterian] preacher, has a new
church, handsome & tasty building with a tall im‑
posingRegularized:imposing CupaloRegularized:cupola near on the south side Lafayette
Square. This gentleman is from Boston. For some
illiberal remarks respecting the moral & religious
condition of society in N.O. he was on his arri‑
valRegularized:arrival here greeted with pretty strong demonstrations
of public indignation; was burnt in effigy; threat‑
enedRegularized:threatened with personal violence and the Mayor of the
City had finally to issue his proclamation on the
occasion to allay public resentment and secure
the puritan's safety.

In the new part of the city which is called
the Upper Fauxburg, ^Faubourg a canal was commen‑
cedRegularized:commenced about three years ago & now nearly com‑
pleatedRegularized:completed, running from Circus Street, to into the
Lake near the Lighthouse 6 miles long.

A rail road runs throRegularized:through Baronne Street com‑
mencingRegularized:commencing at Canal street and running to the Parish
of Lafayette about 3 miles in length- Another
rail road runs parallel with it through Magazine
street, starting at Canal street & terminating at Carlton
a town just commenced settling up the river‑
It is supposed these works will be abolished as a
[Illegible: nuicances]Regularized:nuisances the people are opposed to them‑

28

“Le Moniteur de la Louisiane” was established 1794, the
only paper printed in the province during its subjection
to Spain.
Baron de Carondelet—his canal was cut by 60 convict
convict negroes, whose labor was procured by his petitions
to the King for that purpose. 1794 or completed1796

With a view of promoting french emigration to Louisiana
after the breaking out of the french revolution, Baron Carondolet
granted extensive bodies of land to various noblemen and
other individuals; among which were^{Marquis de Maisonrouge}Baron de Bastrop,
St. Vrain & others. Bastrop sold his claim to Moorhouse; the King of Spain would
not sanction the sale, & ordered that no lands should be granted as a citizen of the U. S.

After the defeat of St. Clair, Wayne succeeded to the command
after the death of Wayne, Gen^lRegularized:General Wilkinson took command in ¹⁷⁷⁹

I give you the hystoryRegularized:history of the early settlement of Louisiana
because it is of itself interesting, and is so connected
with the first possession & settlement of Texas as to form
an appropriate introduction to the hystoryRegularized:history of this prov‑
inceRegularized:province

29

The City of Lafayette is about mile & half or two
miles from the N.O. PropperRegularized:proper; it is a separate corporation
the act of incorporation passed last session of the Legislature.
It is a beautiful town on the river, uniting the trade
& conveninceRegularized:convenience of city with the pleasures & comforts of ru‑
ralRegularized:rural life. It contains orange groves, and shaded with
live oak. Preston spoke at the Lafayette Fete with
much applause; he was the attoney employed to de‑
fendRegularized:defend the property against the claimants—

The increase in the value of real estate is truly
estonishingRegularized:astonishing. An old frenchman many years had
his house pulled down by order of the Governor bec‑
auseRegularized:because it was an old wooden building liable to be fired &
so situtedRegularized:situated that if it could not burn without setting
fire to other valuable property- His name was Mills
He importuned the Govr. for a long time for pay for
his demolished domicil; and for the purpose of getting
rid of eternal applications, the govr. granted to Mills, a
tract of low swampy marsh, not considered of any
value. The Frenchman rec.dRegularized:received the grant because he
could do no better, but considered himself unpaid for
the loss of his shop. This man lived to an advanced
age; and about three years ago he laid off a part
of his swamp in town lots & sold them for two hun‑
hundred thousand dollars‑ the whole grant is said
to be worth a million—

30

Another case similar to the foregoing— an old
fisherman, obtained a grant for a small tract
of ground on which his hut was erected on the
bank of the river. He and the immediate heirs were
all dead. Many years elapsed, but some remains
of the hut were known so late as 1811. Recently some
of the decendents of the old fisherman, sued the
corporation for the ground; the corporation offered
them 75 thousand dollars for the claim; they asked
a hundred thousand; this was refused; they g
claimants gained the [...], reared a buildings on
the spot and is worth ^{more than}all all they demanded for it‑

Saturday 27- I met Hana, Bulloch, Retherford
Patton & others; Hana begged me to return. He
had a spell of the fever; by his advice I abandoned
the idea of sailing for MadagordaRegularized:Matagorda, & concluded to
take the first boat up the Red River to NatchetochesRegularized:Natchitoches—

The river Mis at New Orleans is constantly receding
from the City, & widingRegularized:widening in channel proportionably on
the opposite shore. Persons owning grants for ground to
within so many feet of the river, now when the river
recedes, can the owners of those grants advance within
the specified limits to the river? This has been the
source of some litigation & contention, I bilieveRegularized:believe, it is

31

the question is settled in favor of the claimants to all
land herto found; but for all which may form in this
manner in future shall belong to the corporation—
The river is perpetually undergoing various changes; in
a few years one island disappears, & another makes its
appearance; the sediment in the water is so great that
it is alone sufficient to form an island in an eddy
place in [...] few years.

Left New Orleans Tuesday 30^th.. June, about
2 ^Oclk— A beautiful situation at McCarty's point
now called Carrollton ‑ The whole country up
the river exhibits but one unvaried aspect;
The private esidences small and inelligantRegularized:inelegant;
very few [Illegible: hiby] improved places. About 100 miles
above N.O.Regularized:New Orleans A church stands on the banks of the
river, it looks solitary & useless— The I was much
disappointed in the appearance of the crops; they
were not so luxuriant as I expected; Cane small,
corn inferior to that on the Alabama river; Cotton
good, but little of it. I notice also but little care.
The ^settlements country looked not like plantations, but like
military encampments — the Sugar Mills or house
of factory the best buildings; the dutch br Barns
as their best buildings; & so with the Sugar factory.

The steam boat Romeo are in, good boat; Captain

32

polite, honest substantial, worthy man very un‑
commonRegularized:uncommon thing. We stopped this morning before
breakfast 1^st July to take in a female passenger.
She parted with her friends on the bank suffect
with a Kiss, & a couple she gave, one on each cheek,
to a beautiful aubonpoint lady about 18 I envied
with all my heart. She was dressed in loose flowing
white muslin frock, with a kind of elegant negligee that
rather indicated the probability that she was a
married lady. IllegibleWhen we first hove to, I was
elated with the hope that she was to become a
fellow passenger, but instead we had to receive her
more antiquated & less attractive companion. I saw
her bound up the She whom we left behind, I
saw her bound up the levee her foot slipping at every
step & she loud laughing at her prospect for a fall.
She succeeded however on cling the bank, and I left
her standing there smiling like Aurora, & waving ^{a farewell} her
white handkerchief to her friend now gliding on the
^turbid smootheRegularized:smooth waters of the Mississippi — I stood gazing at
her as far the eye could strain, and with the last
gaze I sighed to loose what I had not gained &
to secretly indulge tha visions that could never be real-
izedRegularized:realized — God, I wish I were young once more—

A small town named Plaqueamine on the
Left hand side of the river was passed this morning; nothing
About it worthy of note; an inconsederableRegularized:inconsiderable place—
(110 miles from N.O.)

33

[Baton Rouge]

BattonRegularized:Baton Rouge, is a village of some importance;
SoldersRegularized:Soldiers of US. stationed there; It stands on a Bluff
on the right side of the river; it is ^on the first elevated
ground from the Balize up to this point.
The derivation of the word is this Batton, stick
and rouge, red, meaning red stick, why it was thus
named is not known. 130 miles above N.O. 2 miles
above Plaquymine—

July 1^st at evening—
Town Bayousara on the right hand side of the river
30 miles above BattonRegularized:Baton Rouge- St. Francesville is
back of Bayousara about illegible^one mile distant; Woodville
(Perhaps in Mississipp) still back of St. Francesville 40 miles—
This is a rich cottony growing country — many thou‑
sand Regularized:thousand
bales cotton shipped from Bayousara to N.O.—

^Atchafalaya Chafalyre 57 miles above Bayousara & three miles
below the Mouth of the red river. ^AtchafalayaChaffalaya makes
from the Mississippi and empties into the ^gulf Grand Lake—
The lands on this stream fertile like those on the parent
river; settlers will have to throw up levees — the country
has not been settled but a few years; they are now
clearing the raft out of the stream and when completed
it will be open a new passage to ^{the gulfGulf} Attacafra etc.—

July 1^st was so cold on the river as to make fire comforta^{‑ ble}Regularized:comfortable
We reached Chaffalyre about 9 ^oclk Thursday 2 ^nd 1835—

34

It was is believed that the attchafalaya is but
a continuance of the Red River, which instead
of resuming directly on to the Gulf now empties
into the Mississippi. 3 miles below where it empties
breaks out the Achafalaya keeping a straitRegularized:straight
direction with the Red—until it spreads itself into a
broad Bay as it empties into the Gulf—

It was for a long time conjectured that the Mississippi
would cut throRegularized:through a point and make Atchafalya its
chief channel & thereby destroy N.O; But this is
no longer apprehended, since the Mississippi has
formed two cutoffs runing commencing above the
red river and terminating a few miles before Atchafalya—

In ascending the Red River, Mississippi, after entering into the
Red River, the water becomes clearer; I was gratified at this
as I was weary of washing in the turbid water of the Mississippi‑
But in a few hours run, I was disappointed; for I formdRegularized:formed
that the what appearance of limpdnessRegularized:limpidness that belonged to Red
River was owing to the clear transparent waters of Black
River emptying into it; after ass leaving the mouth of Black
River, the Red R. assumed the deep red complexion which gives
to it its appropriate name-This River Red divides into
a great number of branches, which leaving the main channels
at one point & entering it again at another. Each Branch
has its appropriate name. The Branch on which Natch‑
itochesRegularized:Natchitoches

35

stands is called Little River, a small narrow, muddy
but Deep stream. These stream branches are constantly
fluctuating, first one & then the other becoming the
principle channel. That on which Natchitoches stands
it is said is yearly becoming less & less navgableRegularized:navigable, and as the
waters decline in this they encreaseRegularized:increase in the neighboring branch
called Bondieu which leaves the main river above Natch‑
itochRegularized:Natchitoch about 10 miles. It is supposed that the waters in little
River will so decline as to affect the commercial importance
of this place; the owners of real estate here, however do not
seem to be apprehensive of the decline of ⁱⁿthe value of property
as they say they will connect this branch & the Bondieu
by a cross Rail Road a distance of 4 or 5 miles; But if I
‑ should suppose if this Branch ceases to be navigable, & the
of a town would certainly spring upon on the other branch,
probably at its head 10 miles above this—

After entering the Red River, we run several hours
without finding any banks to the River; the water smeemsRegularized:seems
to spread illimitably over a dark thick illimitable for wil‑
dernessRegularized:wilderness; we then have the appearance of Banks, but they
are low and subject to overflow, rising a few feet above the
surface of the water; this land is subject to entry, & a few
settlements are forming one it; it is good land, but it will have
to be protected by levees; After leaving passing through this
we then enter into higher grounds where the Banks rise
high above high water mark; and then commences plantations

36

extensive & highly improved. This is the heart of the
cotton growing country of Louisiana; the land is exceedingly
fertile, but the water bad or none at all; th Rain water is
chiefly used; the Red River being too muddy & brackish.

38

[History of Louisiana and Texas to Current Times]

The following facts gathered from Judge Martin of Orleans
in a conversation with him.

The Spaniards had possession of Florida until 1762
when Spain parted with it to Great Britain. They
re-took Florida from G.B. during the War of the
American Revolution; they kept it till the peace of
1783 when it was confirmed to them by treaty of that
date. They held it then until Mr. Monroe's adminis‑
trationRegularized:administration; Florida was then ceded to the U.S. It was ob‑
tainedRegularized:obtained by purchase the U.S. paying about ^{5 millions} two millions
dollars ^{of which was paid to Spain & the balance to American citizens for illegal [Illegible: seizures]}
and at the same time relinquishing some
claims which she held against Spain for spoliations.
In this negociationRegularized:negotiation, the Sabine was fixed upon
as the line dividing this country from the Spanish
possessions in Texas. The Sabine has two prongs
as branches; a difficulty likely to arise as to which is
to be considered the dividing line—

There are two rivers emptying into the sabine bay,
the one known on the maps as Sabine, the other as
called in Texas Snow River up to its fork the left prong o
being called—^Naches the right Angelina ^Amhaunlene . It is contended that
this is the true Sabine & the left prong the real dividing
line between this country & Texas; But this cannot be the fact
for the Treaty of 1819 ceding concluded at Washington City 1819.
Ceeding Florida, says that Mellishi's map is to be the
governing one; & in that map the Eastern Stream is the
one named Sabine.
On the Snow river or Naches the degree of latitude
is not to be found mentioned in the treaty of 1819.
James Adams & Don Onis knew this.

39

From Martin's Louisiana-
1537- Soto sailed to subjugate Florida-army nine
hundred foot & three hundred horse- furnished at his
own expense; he had acquired great wealth in
Peru when he accompanied Pizaro thither ‑ He
landed in the bay where Narvaez had landed 11 years before.
‑ ‑ ‑ In the Spring his army marched thro the back
part of the State of Georgia; being in search of gold perhaps
the ancient signs of human work discovered in the
Gold region of Georgia was dug by him ‑ ‑ he went
thro part of Kentucky, Tennessee & returned to the bay
of Mobile- He fought the Hiscaloosas Mobilians,
& Alabamians & other tribes now forgotten. He fought
successfully for a long time; but illegible reaching red river
he died with fever & was buried in a strong coffin
sunk by lead bullets in the Mississippi that the in‑
diansRegularized:Indians might not obtain it‑ His wars resulted
in no good to his country but ruin to himself &
his followers-

1541. Muscoro succeeded Soto and led the army up
Red River to Natchetoches & Nacogdoches. Took
winter quarters here, built boats & descended the
Mississippi in the spring, had a brush or two with the
Indians-

1558 Admiral Coliquy sought in Florida an assylum
for his persecuted protestants. Sean Ribaud headed the
colony & settled at Augustine

40

1670. Talon the first intendent of New France
dispatched father Marquette a recollet monk &
& Joil Joliet a trader both at Quebec in search of
a river which the Indians had given great accounts
of the Mississippi. They succeeded in descending fin-
dingRegularized:finding it & descended the Red River- 1673 the only per‑
sonsRegularized:persons who had floated down it since the days of
Muscoso one hundred & thirty years before.

1678 Robert Cavelier de Lasalle, under the Prince
de Conti went on projected discoveries in compani
taking with him Chevalier de Toute a favorite of the
princes an italian officer.

1681. After many distressing circumstances & opposition both
from indians & disaffection of his own men, Lassalle
encamped on Red River March 27, 1681. He descended
and returned to Canada thence to France to announce his
success.

4^th July 1684. Lasalle, with 12 young men volunteers
& 50 soldiers set sail set sail under patronage of
Govt.. with to plant a colony on the Mississippi. In
sailing for the Mississippi they lost their [Illegible: mooring ] &
found themselves on an unknown shore. Lasalle wanted
the Capt. Of the vessel to sail again for Mississippi, he
refused; Lasalle & his men went ashore; the vessel returned
to France, & Lasalle after various efforts to find the Mississippi
finally built a fort on the Bay now known as St. Bernards.

41

St. Bernard & garrisoned it with one hundred men-
Shortly after he established another post up the river
Rio Colorado de Texas. He repulsed indians in fight‑
After long exertions & fatigue his followers became
anxious to return home, & attributing all their suffering
to their leader he together with his nephew was murdered
in 1687. near the western branch of the Trinity River-

This broke up the colony- they wandered awhile with
among the Indians ‑

The Spaniards hearing of this Settlement, sent Don
Alonzo de Leon to scour the country & hunt out the
french colony – he found none – met friendly by the
Assinais indians to whom Leon gave the appellation
of Texas or friends. a few years the spaniards sent
Missionaries out here among these indians & established
Military posts. These missions or posts were the
beginning of the spanish settlements in the province
of Texas. 1689‑ 91—etc.—

1698. Iberville now, flattering himself with better
success, resolved to follow out La Salle's projects-he
was patronized by Count de Pontchartrain. He met
with several of Lasalles men. Descending the Mississippi
he planted his colony on the eastern extremity of the Bay
of Biloxi. Here he built a fort. In May 1700 Iberville
sailed for France & left his brother Beneville at the head
of the colony & ordered St. Denys up the red river on discoveries‑

42

1712 The King granted to Anthony Crozat the ex‑
clusiveRegularized:exclusive commerce of Louisiana with great privileges
Crozat's charter bears date 26 sept. 1712.

1716. Beneville was still Govr. of the fro colony — Two
frenchmen had been killed by the Indians. Beneville
demanded the head of the chief by whose order these
men had been murdered; An Indian volunteered to die for
his chief & his head was accordingly severed & presented
to Beneville as the chiefs; but Beneville learning that it
was not the chiefs, still demanded the head of the chief.
A deputation waited on Beneville & offered themselves as
sacrifices to save their chiefs; Beneville was inexorable,
and the chief was finally executed illegible to appease him.

1716 St Denys was Crozat's agent to vend his goods.
He went to Natchitoches to sell them & also to prevent
the encroachments of the Spaniards from Texas. He
penetrated Texas down to where La Salle was murdered
about 36 years previous. Here he was taken prisoner
& sent to Mexico; imprisoned 3 months, released and received
with hospitality by Don Pedro; whose daughter he falls in love
with ^her mairiesRegularized:marries her and in six months departs for
Mobile leaving his wife pregnant.

43

1718 Beneville fixed upon the place where new
Orleans now stands as the principle settlement of the
colonysRegularized:colonies.

1720‑ The spaniards having established posts &
missionaries among the Indians in Texas, now claimed
this country; Laharpe with men penetrated the coun‑
tryRegularized:country and claimed it by virtue of Lasalle's discoveries
36 years before as a part of Louisiana; he said that
he never heard that Spain had ever had any pretensions
to any part of the country east of Rio Bravo; all the
River flowing in the Mississippi with all the country
watered by them being the property of france. P. 58

(In 1769. Natchitoches had 811 inhabitants; its present population
is about 12 hundred) In 1783 its population was 756.
In 1803. at the cession to the U. S. pop. 1631. In 1810. 2870

1773 Daniel Boon with four other families commenced the settlement ^{of Kentucky}
Population of Mobile in 1785- was 746. in 1803. 810

Fort Butler on the Alabama river, probably named after
the brave & lamented Genl. Butler who fell in the destruc‑
tionRegularized:destruction of St. Clair's army

Miro threatens transportion to every Quarteroon etc. & who lives
who lives in a state of concubinage, & extravganceRegularized:extravagance in jewelry &
dress will be evidence of the fact. He complains that the
head dress established between the Quarteroons & whites had not been
kept up. He directs them to wear their hair bound up in a ^handkerchief

44

45

16631763. When Louisiana was transferred to Spain
by treaty; the inhabitants were much opposed to it &
sent on a deputation to france to petition the King
to rescind the treaty. Jean Millet was at the head of
the mission returned & reported his failure- It was
two years after the treaty before Spain took possession
of the Country. Don Antonio de Ulloa appointed by
the King of Spain [Illegible: by] to the Govt. of Louisiana arrived
at Orleans 1766, visited the several posts and spent
much time at Natchitoches. According to the census
taken this year there were between 5 & 6 thousand whites
and blacks of nearly an equal number.

Ulloa had never exhibited his authority to take
possession. The colony still flattered themselves that
they could prevent the transfer of the county to Spain;
but on finding there was no possibility of defeating
the treaty, many were for open resistance, and plead
the successful efforts of the American colonies in re‑
sistingRegularized:resisting the StamptRegularized:Stamp act etc. to stimulate the hearts of the
timid & doubting- At a public meeting Resolution
was passed ordering UlolaRegularized:Ulloa from the country; he de‑
partedRegularized:departed; but ere long an army was sent under the
command of O'Reilly to take possession. The French
colors were struck; the Spanish hoisted; & this ended
about 71 years after the arrival of Iberville the
Govt. of France of Louisiana

46

O'Reilly took possession of Louisiana in 1769. On
his first arrival he professed friendship & promised
oblivion to all the efforts which had been made to de‑
featRegularized:defeat the treaty & the opposition to Ulloa; but so soon
as he was fixed in power he basely murdered all the
principle leaders in the opposition to Spanish authority—
O'Reilly's conduct was disapprobated by the King of
Spain who prohibited his appearance at court. The forces
he left in N.O.Regularized:New Orleans Sailed for Havanna—

1785. An attempt made to establish the inquisition‑

What was the disposition of Louisiana toward the
cause of the American Colonies during the Revolution?
They were not unfriendly to it. At the opening of the
Revolution there were In rend several Philadelphia Merchants
in N.O.Regularized:New Orleans all favorable to the American cause. Oliver Pollock
was the most zealous & distinguished. The^They procured ^{a supply} arms and
ammunition for the settlers of the western part of Pennsylvania.
This came within the Knowledge of tl GalezRegularized:Galvez the Govr. Genl. of Louis—Regularized:Louisiana
Canoes were sent from Fort Pitt ^{or Pittsburgh}to New O.Regularized:New Orleans to receive the mu‑
nitionsRegularized:munitions of war thus collected by Pollack & others. They were
delivered to Col. Gibson. Capt. Willing ^{from Philadelphia} who came in company
endeavored to persuade the British settlers in this quarter & FlordaRegularized:Florida
to join the Americans, but they refused & continued faithful to the
royal cause; probably from the apprehension that they might
be doomed to suffer as Milhet & others in Louisiana who opposed the
transfer of the countyRegularized:country to Spain; who drove Ulloa from the countyRegularized:country and was
after punished shamefully & treacherously by O'Reilly—

47

1778. Oliver Pollock now acted ^{in N.O.Regularized:New Orleans}" openly as agent for the
American Colonies. Galvez recognized him as such and
promoted his views. Galvez afforded them aid out of the
Royal Treasury, to the amt.Regularized:amount of 70 thousand dollars—
Capt. Willing on his second visit to N.O.Regularized:New Orleans with about 50
men, commenced a predatory war upon the british settlements
on the East side of the Mississippi at Baton Rouge & other places.
The british withdrew to the west side of the river into Louisiana
for safety, taking their slaves & other property. This act of Capt..
Willing was deemed inhuman & ungrateful as he had been
kindly recd.Regularized:received ^{on his first visit}by the very men whom he now plundered & whose
houses he burnt.

1779 Spain BrittanRegularized:Britain declared war against France for the
aid she had afforded the American colonies. In 1779. Spain
proposed that a meeting of the bligerentRegularized:belligerent powers at Madrid
where G. BritianRegularized:Great Britain should treat with the American colony as
independent nation. G. B.Regularized:Great Britain refused; Spain then under the
pretext or charge G. B.Regularized:Great Britain wished to indemnify herself for the loss
of America & fo by seizing on Spanish possessions & to accom‑
plishRegularized:accomplish this had sat the Indians of Florida upon the people
of Louisiana, she declared war against G. B.Regularized:Great Britain So soon as
Spain's declaration of war agantRegularized:against Britian reached Louisiana
Galvez the Govr.. rallied all the Americans in & about N.O.Regularized:New Orleans
who were joined by militia voluntersRegularized:volunteers, making an army of
about 14 hundred men. Galvez directed his operations aganstRegularized:against
Baton Rouge, where. Col. Dickson commanding at Baton Rouge
had only five hundred men. Galvez; succeeded easily in taking it

48

it; a capitulation took place, and Galvez had the honor
of having the exploit celebrated b in a poem by Julian
Poydrass a man of wealth genius & afterwards a member
of Congress.
1779. Congress sent a minister to Madrid for the
purposes of negociatingRegularized:negotiating a treaty by which the U.S.Regularized:United States might
be entitled to th a participation in the navigation of the
Mississippi. Spain opposed it; France discountenanced it.
It was contended by Spain, that the U.S.Regularized:United States had no claims
to any part of the British possessions in Florida or on the
east side of the Mississippi, and as Spain was now at
war with G. B.Regularized:Great Britain She had a right to conquer & take permanent
possession of Florida & the British settlements on Mississippi,
and its was expected by Spain that the U.S. would prohibit
all the all attempts abstain from any attempt to take possession
her or conquer it herself, or ^{& not}permit the southern people
to make any enroachments by forming settlements on it —

1780. Galvez after his achieventRegularized:acheivement at Baton Rouge was
promoted to some higher command. His army had
been disbanded inconsequence of the yellow fever &
small pox; but having received reinforcement from
Havanna, he marched against Mobile; and after many
disasters by storms, he reached there; erected battery against
the Fort (Charlotte) and finally drove the commandent — into
capitulation — Galvez now returned to N.O.Regularized:New Orleans and
projected an invasion of Pensacola. He was equally

49

successful in taking that place. The garrison was
commanded by Genl. Campbell; he was driven to surren‑
derRegularized:surrender, and in the articles of capitulations signed May
1781. Pensacola with the whole province of West Florida was
surrenderdRegularized:surrender to Spain. Thus had Spain reacquired from
by conquest all the possessions which she had ceded to
G. B.Regularized:Great Britain in 1763. Galvez was rewarded by the appointment
of Capt-Genl. of the provinces of Louisiana & Florida—

Soon after this a general treaty was formed between
G. B.Regularized:Great Britain the USRegularized:United States & Spain. G. BritainRegularized:Great Britain confirmed West
Florida to Spain and also ceded E. Florida to her. " G. B.Regularized:Great Britain
acknowledged the Independence of the U.S.Regularized:United States and recognized
as their southern boundary, a line to be drawn
due east from a point in the river Mississippi in
the latitude of 31 degrees, north of the equator, to the
middle of the River Chattachoochee; thence along the
middle thereof. to its junction with Flint river; thence
straitRegularized:straight to the head of St. Mary's river to the atlantic
ocean." This is the dividing line between the
U.S.Regularized:United States and Spanish possessions. The navigation of the
Mississippi was free and open to Spain, Great B.Regularized:Great Britain, &
the U.S.
A difficulty now arose between Spain & the U.S.Regularized:United States with
regard to the Boundary; When Spain ceded Florida to Britain
in 1762. The norther boundary was fixed at the 31st. degree of
north latitude; But G. B.Regularized:Great Britain afterward, wishing to take in some

50

important settlements, extended the line of Florida ^{due east} to
from the mouth of the Yazoo river; in latitude 32.28.
Spain after the general treaty of '83; contended that
the line was intended to start from this latter point that
in latitude 32.28, & runs to the Chattahoochee, because that
boundary of extension of the boundary of Florida by G. B.
had always been recognized & acquiesed in; But the U.S.
contended for the lines 31st.. degree of north latitudes being the
proper & true point, ^1st because G. B. had no right to have
extended Florida as she had done, & secondly, because the
31st degree was distinctly specified as the starting point, in
the illegible treaty of 83.
Another difficulty arose about the navigation
of the Mississippi. Spain contended that G.B. nor
the U.S. having no land either bank of the river
they had no right to demand its navigation; but the
U.S. contended for her right under the treaty, and also
by virtue of her succeeding to the british right to the
left bank above the Bayou Manchac; Britain had
claimed the a participant in the navigation by treaty of 62;
The U.S. succeeded to her claim. The U.S. insisted upon
a litteral fulfilment of the treaty of 83,
When quarrels lasted for a series of years and
were finally settled, by the retro-cession of Louisiana by
Spain to France, & the subsequent cession of the territory
to the U.S. in 18___ and the purchase of Florida in 1819—

51

During the period between the general treaty of
peace and of 1783. to the cession of the country to the
U.S., what were the prominent circumstances in the
HystoryRegularized:history of Louisiana? First an attempt to establish
the Inquisition ^{defeated by Miro Gov.}—2nd The deep interest the colony took in
the French Revolution. The efforts of Genl. Wilkinson to
establish trade between the western people & N.O.Regularized:New Orleans — permission
is granted him 1789. The unsuccessful attempts of the U.S. to ob‑
tain Regularized:obtain by negociation with Spain permission to navigate the Mississippi
French Revolution; Louisiana takes deep interest. Genet the
french minister, planned two expeditions against Louisiana for
the purpose of taking from Spain & attaching it to France.
Many Americans join in the project & receive commissions
from him. Baron de Carondelet Gov. at this time was a
Frenchman, but took all necessary means to defeat Genet.
Carondelet attempts to separate the Western Country from
the Atlantic States. In 1795 by treaty the U.S. has the
right to navigate the Mississippi. Carondelet still prosecu‑
ting Regularized:prosecuting his views of separating the Western Country, sent Powers
under some other pretence, to Kentucky to consult with Genl.
Wilkinson and other leading men. Lacasagne, Sebastian
Brackenridge & others leading men; Powers saw Wilkinson
who was unwilling to join in the project; Powers returned
amp; reported to the Baron, that whatever might have once been
the disposition of Kentucky to such a scheme, the people
were now indisposed to it, since they had gain the navi‑
gationRegularized:navigation of the Mississippi & Congress had afforded them suc‑
corRegularized:succor against the indians.

52

The U.S. in consequence of some spotiations on american
property, was disposed to quarrel with France; JnRegularized:John Adams
was Gov. President; he conceived the idea of conquering
N.O.Regularized:New Orleans as indemnity & also to quiet the Western people,
and additions were made to the army for this purpose, but
Adams ^{seeing no prospect of a reellection} not being reellected, the project was abandoned,

By the treaty on the first of Octr..Regularized:October 1800 between Spain &
France, Louisiana was ceded to France. The cession was
affected in 1801. Buonaparte took immediate possession.
The French ^Louisaniansrejoiced at this. They had been under
Spanish dominion for 34 years; and were glad now
to be united to their brethren from whom they had
been severed. But their rejoicings were of short dur‑
ationRegularized:duration for in 1803 Bonaparte who had caused Spain to
give up the country to France, now sold the country to the
U.S. Thos.Regularized:Thomas Jefferson was President. The tri colored flag
which had been so recently hoisted was lowered, and the
striped banner hois elevated in its stead —
Congress authorized the President to take possession of
the Territory in Oct. The President done so, and appointed
Claiborn who was Govr.Regularized:Governor of Mississippi & GenlRegularized:General Wilkinson
Commissioners for receivgRegularized:receiving the ceded teritory

The U.S. gave 15 millions dollars —
Claiborn was the first governor —
Burr ^{the late} vice President visited N.O.Regularized:New Orleans 1805.
The first legislature was held in Louisiana 1806

53

What is the hystoryRegularized:history of N.O.Regularized:New Orleans from its purchase
up to 1812. The people were dissatisfied at the new
order of things; The appointment of Claiborn, Govr.Regularized:Governor who knew
nothing of this manners or language was offensive; his
sudden introduction of new laws & municipal proceedings
embarreessedRegularized:embarrassed & confused them; the old militia disbanded
& the Americans organized into volunteer companies & patron‑
izedRegularized:patronized by Claiborn; Claiborn's marked & obvious distinction be‑
tweenRegularized:between the american the two classes of citizens; these &
other such acts, induced the peop together with the scar‑
city Regularized:scarcity of coin, & the uncertain period when they should be
admitted as a State into the Union, induced the in‑
habitantsRegularized:inhabitants to hold public meetings, at which Memorial
was drawn up & a deputation chosen to carry it to
Congress. Their memorial ^deputationwas unsuccessful; Congress passed
a law declaring the ^{Govt shall be such as had been established in} laws of Mississippi; & that the Territory
should be admitted into the Union as soon as the population
should amount to the constitutional number viz. Sixty thousand —

Then came Burr into the country. In a year thereafter
the President of the U.S was informed that Burr was med‑
itatingRegularized:meditating mischief to the Union thro'Regularized:through the Western States;
but as these States were not suspected with any want of
fidelity & attachment to the Govt. no attention was at first paid
to the reports; the rumor however gaining strength, that an
association extending from N. YorkRegularized:New York thro'Regularized:through the [Illegible: west] to N.O.Regularized:New Orleans at
the head of which was Burr, the president began to look upon

54

the matter in the light of a serious conspiracy; and appointed
Graham Secretary of the territory of Orleans to investigate
the plot, ferret out the workers and bring them to punish‑
mentRegularized:punishment. The president in the mean time issued his procla‑
mationRegularized:proclamation announcing the existence of the conspiracy, invoking
warning the citizens from engaging in it & calling on all
officers civil & military to be active & vigilentRegularized:vigilant in sup‑
pressingRegularized:suppressing it. This gave Genl. Wilkinson an opportunity to
figure in the affair. With a ^suddenmost extraordinary zeal for the
safety of N.O.Regularized:New Orleans & the Country, he wrote to the President that some
he had discovered some of the most disteng eminent men disten‑
guished Regularized:distinguished hither to for integrity were engaged in the plot; he
let out important contracts for the fortification of the City secretly
and called upon the Govr. of Mississippi for troops who
refused because Wilkinson refused to state what he wanted
with them; he calls upon seizes by force & violence Bollman
& others as conspirators; & shipped them off it was not known
where; Judge Workman granted writs of Habeas Corpus for
their releasemt; Wilkinson disregards them; takes the judge
prisoner & calls upon the Legislature to suspend the writ
of Habeas Corpus; they refuse; Judge Workman liberated; he
calls upon Claiborne as Govr. to protect the people of
the Territory from military violence & maintain the civil
institutions & authority of the country. The Govr. declines doing any‑
thing ^{& made an unsuccessful attempt on the Legislature to suspend the Habeas Corpus of} & Workman resigns his commission in disgust in
Claiborne Rumor was afloat that Burr was desending the Mississippi
with boats & and an armed force; ^{was taken at Natches, but making his escape}Claiborn issues a proclaimation ^{in [...]}offering

55

a reward of two thousand dollars for his apprehension‑
He was ‑ ^re‑ apprehended in March 1807 near for Stoddart &
placed under a strong guard was conducted to Richmond
Virginia for trial. I remember when he passed by our
dwelling on his way thither, in warren county. Genl. Wil‑
kinsonRegularized:Wilkinson in May following proceeded to Richmond to attend Burrs
trial. After a long & tedious examination of the matter
Burr was pronounced by the jury Not Guilty. Then took
a new turn in Genl. Wilkinson's fortunes. In december ^next there‑
after he a motion was made in Congress in 1807 to bring Genl.
Wilkinson to trial, who was strongly suspected not only of
being a pensioner of Spain, but also a participater in
Burr's conspiracy. Wilkinson hearing this demanded a
court of enquiry; it was granted him.The court closed its
deliberations in June acquitting the General. The president
approved the verdict. But not withstanding this verdict a
general impression prevailed that he was guilty. A man by
the name of Clark made a publication against him, arraying
such a force of testimony against him as to convince could
not easily be gainsaid or surmounted, shewing that he had
been a pensioner of Spain & accomplice of Burr's, that
the clamor became so great that he was ordered to return
to Washington City – Wade Hampton superceeded him in com‑
mandRegularized:command of the troops – Wilkinson went to Washington. Two
committees reported on his case neither actually [Illegible: caning] him
& yet neither acquitting him ^{& Congress adjourned without doing anything}. A court martial was after‑
the illegible wardsRegularized:afterward ordered in N.O.Regularized:New Orleans for his trial; the charges

56

gainst him were two that he had rec.dRegularized:received money from
Spain, that he had contrived with Carondelet to separate the
western States ^people from the atlantic States; that he was an ac‑
compliceRegularized:accomplice of Burr's; that he had wasted public money
& had disobeyed orders. The trial terminated in his
acquittal & the President approved the award 14 February
1812. This terminated the affair of Burr & Wilkinson.
It is still the belief of thousands that both are guilty.
The object of Burr was not discovered, but report assigned
to him three separate objects — 1st The erection of a new
Govt.Regularized:Government in the west by a separtion of the people from the Union;
secondly; thatan attack on Mexico; & thirdly, the
settlement of the large tract of land granted by Carondelet
to Baron de Bastrop on the Washita river. Be his
object what it might, it is believed by many that Wilkin
‑ sonRegularized:Wilkinson once attached to the cause because alarmed and
turned traitor to it, & basely betrayed his friend.
This brings matters down to the declaration of War —
Louisiana [Illegible: Dabanliana] was admitted into the Union in 1811
admitted 30th April 1812.

57

Mobile.
On the 12th FebruaryRegularized:February 1813. Congress authorized the president
of the Us.Regularized:United States to occupy & hold that part of West Florida
lying west of the river Perdido, not then in the possession
of the U.S. When [...] Louisiana was ceded to the US. though
she claimed to the river Perdido yet she left Mobile in
possession of Spaniards. Clairborn was ordered not to interfere
with any fort then occupied by Spain. But in 1813 the US
States deemed it improper & unsafe longer to delay taking
possession, & orders were accordingly issued to Genl. Wilkinson
to take Mobile. The task was easy of execution for the
Fort tho' ^Charlotte strong was not garisoned with more than 150
efficient men. Don Gayetans Perez commanded who
ui soon perceived the necessity of capitulation. With A
part of the artillery retained by Wilkinson he sent to
Mobile point which commands the entrance of the bay;
A small force is still kept up at the point where is
stationed my military com friend Lieut. McKenzie.
After this Wilkinson was returned to N.O.Regularized:New Orleans & was shortly
ordered to join the army on the frontiers of Canada.
Genl. Florinory succeeded him in the command of the
forces on the Mississippi; but not failed to acquit
himself with any high achievements. He was a lawyer of
[Illegible: Aryents Geo.] & no part of a military man; he may have
had the thirst but not the abilities of one; he was approved
to the command in violation of all the rules of gradation, by
the recommendation of Mr. Crawford, whose interest he afterwards
opposed when he was candidate for president of the US —

58

Texas — Bay St. Bernard
About 1799 the Spaniards erected a fort on the
ruins of one which La Salle and desplayedRegularized:displayed on
it the Spanish flag. A few years after Laharpe
was commissioned to take possession of St the bay of
St. BarnardRegularized:Bernard. The project however was viewed in
Louisiana as premature & was disapprobated.
Laharpe proceeded. His instruction was to take
formal possession of the county by building a fort and by
placing on a post the arms of France in some conspic‑
uousRegularized:conspicuous place on the sea shore. He endeavored to excite the
indians against the Spaniards & asked of them permission
to establish a colony which they refused. After several ad‑
venturesRegularized:adventures, some not the most honorable with the indians he
returned and reported the unpredictability of making
at that time any settlement in that quarter. I know of
subsequent efforts on the part of the French to take
possession of the country. The Spaniards retaindRegularized:retained their
foot hold, increased their settlements & have remained
in possession of the country ever since. This excludes every
shadow of just claims of France to the territory as a
part of Louisiana by virtue of LaSalle. Page 43.

59

Texas.
If you have be had the patience to wade thro'Regularized:through the long
and wearisome letters hertoforeRegularized:heretofore written to you, you will prob‑
ablyRegularized:probably remember the early attempts which were unsuccessfully
made by France to gain Texas as a part of Louisiana.
LaSalle's location on the Colorado, and his unfortunate and
together with the disperssionsRegularized:dispersions & suffering of his followers will
not have escaped your nc notice. You will recollect that
after the failure of LaSalle's attempted settlement of Texas
the Spaniards made their way into that country, first by
sending missionaries among the Indians, then erecting a fort
on the ruins of one once reared by LaSalle, and finally plan‑
ting Regularized:planting a colony. Laharpe was sent to drive them thence, assert
the claims of France, and formally to take possession; but
the enterprizeRegularized:enterprise failing entirely, the Spaniards retain their
occupancy, and the country has been ^continued in their unmolested
possissionRegularized:possession ^{until the Mexican revolution of 1821}. ever since As tenacious however as Old Spain was
of her right to this territory, yet she took no steps towards
extending her settlements or in increasing its population
and reducing it to cultivation; but on the contrary rather
seemed ^ready to oppose check enterprise and arrest emigration. She
was not willing that other nations should get a foot hold in
the country, & yet was unwilling herself to take any measures
for the its improvement. The reason of this was that Spain
^{was not only jealous of other nations but} had become jealous of the province of Mexico, and apprehend‑
ing Regularized:apprehending that this promise would some day be disposed to revolt
from her authority, she was disposed to throw every obstacle

60

in the to MexicosRegularized:Mexico's accumulation of strength. Emigration into
Texas was accordingly interdicted; Travellers were not permitted
to [Illegible: venture ] to the country and every foreigner found on its soil,
viewed in the light of a tresspasser was subject to such pun‑
ishment Regularized:punishment as despotism might prescribe. But not withstanding all
these efforts on the part of Spain to prevent the settlement of
Texas, yet many of her new subjects, in violation of the prohi‑
bitionRegularized:prohibition moved thither and formed themselves into small compact
colony or towns ^{and lived abstracted from the world, in poverty & ignorance, cut off from all commerce trade etc}. It was this that Nacogdoches first commenced.
It was settled ^foundedabout the same time with PhilidelphiaRegularized:Philadelphia, and if it
had have been fostered by a like govt.. and salutary laws, U it would
now, instead of being an insignificant rendezvous of some 5 or six
3 or 4 hundred penniless adventurers, it might be equal in char‑
acterRegularized:character & learning to this great O Athens of America and in wealth
& population unrivalled by any a inland city in the U.S. Th Such
is the widely different or opposite effects which despotic & free
Govt.s Regularized:Governments have in developing the resources of a country and [...]
ap appropriating ^{converting into blessings} the bounty of nature its the blessings of [...]
Under the depressing influence of Despotism Nacogdoches has
slept for a century in ignorance idleness & poverty, whilst at PhilidelelphiaRegularized:Philadelphia
deemed scouraged by the under the auspices of the Goddess of liberty
has reared her stupendous edifice shed over the continent her
the light of science, and whitened every sea with the sails of commerce.
The very same effects of the two systems are equally ^perceptible in the char‑
acterRegularized:character morals, and ability of man. Despotism debases the human
soul to the level of the brute creation; Freedom elevates it to a
condition compatible with dignity of its original creator, & man

61

65

From Natchitoches to Nachogdoches

I left Natchitoches, that town of filth, fever & feuds
on Wednesday afternoon 15 July and proceeded only
about 9 miles to a Mr Freeman's where I tarried the night
and fared myself much better than my mare, which was
limited in her supper to ^{little more than} a quart of corn, without fodder or
oats ^{or grass} and in the morning was served with a breakfast equally
scanty and dry. My bill was a dollar & quarter. After early
breakfast taking leave of liberal landlord I proceeded solemn &
solitary on my over a barronRegularized:barren tract of country of thin gray
soil sandy soil but little tempting to emigration, for about 15
miles when I stopped at MrStoker's where I found a dinner
adapted to my appetite & where my mare made her was fur‑
nished Regularized:furnished with ^ample opportunity of supplying the deficiencies of the
two preceeding feeds. She had corn oats & fodder in abundance
and doubtless done as much execution in the manger as I
did in the trencher. From Stokers ^{I passed Fort Jessup, founded by Genl GainsRegularized:Gaines, a handsomRegularized:handsome barracks.} I reached just about dusk
^{about 8 miles from the fort} the habitation of an antiquated widow, M^rs Brown, where I
was told that ^{my mule could be} furnished provided with oats
a very material consideration ^{as the article was so plenty &} the store of old corn was
almost entirely consumed on the road. At most of the public
stands nothing was to be had but green corn, an article, which,
the inexperienced in very few days riding will find in‑
sufficientRegularized:insufficient& unsuitable for a horse travelling animal. My
nag was here with abundantly served with food, but badly

66

watered. I said My land lady was antiquated ^{intimated mine hostess was somewhat} advanced
in the vale of years, but she was not more ancient in this
particular than she was in manners. She is a genuine
relictRegularized:relic of the old fashiondRegularized:fashioned people in the country, who some
20 years ago acted from instinct, spurned all formality
and spoke without art. I enquired if she would have tea
for supper; no, ^{she replied} tea was not as good as coffee; but on telling
her that I not only preferred it but could not drink coffee
she replied that she had good milk & I could drink that. I
insisted however on having tea, and believing that she possibly
might not have the of it it probable she had
none of the article, I poured from a tin canister which
I had filled with the article ^{green leaf} the necessary quantity and presen‑
ted Regularized:presented it to her; she took it & promised cheerfully enough to have
drawn in time for supper, but said that she had plenty of
her own and would placed what I handed her on the
shelf as she said for another time; that time however came
not to me, for I departed early next morning after settling a
moderate bill of 62 ^1/2 cents. Some where between MrsBrowns
and Freeman's, I came to a creek where the bridge had just
fallen in with a waggonRegularized:wagon heavily laden with merchandize &
drawn by 6 yoke of oxen all of which ^{together with the driver} went down to the deep
bottom of the channel with an awful crash & a splash. No
material damage was done to the live stock, but driver & his
whole team having ^miraculously escaped with unbroken bones. The waggonRegularized:wagon
met a sadder fate; with every spoke fellow & hub broke &
every joint wrenched ^{every nail drawn} & every plank shivered

67

& splintered the unfortunate vehicle ^{exhibited a picture of} large with the goods floating
around it like a ^school-boy's demolished trap, or the disjointed fragments of a
ruined world. But never mind that. With permission I will
proceed with my important & deeply interesting narativeRegularized:narrative. My
next day's journey was 8 & twenty miles; it being 16 miles to the
Sabine where I stopped & fed and twelve thence to ^{Mr. Andersons} Mr. Ander
son's where I took quarters for the night. The Sabine you
know is the dividing line between Texas and Louisiana, a
narrow muddy stream, emptying into the GulphRegularized:Gulf of
Mexico and not navigable except probably a few months
for small keel boats. immediately on its western bank
resides Mr Gaines, the proprietor of the ferry, an old settler
in Texas an intelligent & worthy gentleman, from
him whom I gathered much ^useful information with regard to the
present political condition of the Country. He has been
acting as Alcalda, which with us is Justice of the Peace,
and it would be well if the offices were generally filled
with men having half his information ^ability & disposition to
do right; but in consequence of the law requiring the
Alcalda to reside ^{or hold his courts} at the seat of Justice he resigned the
office rather encounter the inconvienceRegularized:inconvenience of which he
would have attendant upon faithful & punctual atten
dence compliance with the law ^requisition & a punctual atten‑
tionRegularized:attention to duty. Mr Anderson It is useless to say that ^here my
stood up to her corn & fodder, and the reason was she had some to stand up to.
fared well, not scantily fed, she stood up to a rack filled
with fodder and a trough full of corn; and such is the
always the case when I have the good fortune to sojourn

68

with a man of breeding & gentility. No man ^person of good
education and politeness will ever starve put a travellersRegularized:traveler's
weary animal on half allowance to save a sixpence ^{worth of oats or corn}
it is never done except ^only by those the vulgar whose souls
have not been expanded by intelligence and whose
humanity but whose in whom selfishness has been fostered by igno‑
ranceRegularized:ignorance and humanity has ^{been suffered} perish for the want of reflection —

Mr Anderson, the gentleman above mentioned with
whom I domiciled the night, was is worthy of a passing remark
for having so egregiously violated the Malthusian poli‑
cy Regularized:policy of population. As I lay on the floor stretched my
limbs on the floor to recruit my exhausted strength,
there flocked around all in noisy confusion a battall‑
ion Regularized:battalion of dogs & children; It was ^{in which it was} difficult to determine
which were the more numerous or noisy. That a new settler
pioneer in a country where game abounded should have
around him a vociferous pack of hounds is a circumstance
may be reasonably expected & easily justified;
it was no way surprising, but how came these congregated
there such a number of children from three to six feet
high in regular gradation like a pair of stairs, was a matter
for which I could not so readily account, nor perceive the
policy or reasonableness of. Perhaps he was a schoolmaster,
or more likely he took they were there as boarders con‑
venientRegularized:convenient to some neighboring school; but no, neither is right;
those children are all his own; and what is still more
extraordinary & laughable is that they are not half which

69

he has. Of how many do you suppose he is the father?
twelve, higher 15 - higher 20 higher 25 thats the numbeRegularized:number
and I put him against any other man in ten states who
has been married only twice ^{& only one wife at a time}. Now Malthus says that
population increases faster than the products for its support;
proposition no doubt true in dense populated countries;
and if Mr Anderson were living in such I would say that
he had done no service to community; but residing in
a fertile region & sparse population, I can look upon his
achievent Regularized:achievementin no other light than a worthy effort to settle
[Illegible: a] the south western wilds, for which he ought to be
rewarded with 25 leagues of the richest soil of Texas.
Here my own fare was not ^very good and my mare's would have
been much worse, if I had not examined the stable ^{previous to retiring to bed} and
bribed the servant to replenish the empty trough. My bribe
I left before breakfast paying him 125 ctsRegularized:cents, just double
the sum which I had paid the night previous ^{at Mrs Browns} for the
same provender and a superior supper, but of this I could
Regularized:[not] reasonably complain as he had per adventure more than
trebbleRegularized:triple the number of children to provide for than my
unsophisticated widow. Taking an even start with the
sun I journiedRegularized:journeyed on at the rate of 4 miles an hour until
which brought me to m^r Thompson's about the hour of twelve.
Here I took up my abode for two or three ^{a few} days; arriving
on Friday ^{Saturday morning} and decamping on Monday morning; receiving
during the time suitable attention & kindness; and paying on
my departure 3 dollars to the friendly host & 50 cents to the Servants.

70

Indisposition was the cause of my stopping. I was con‑
valescentRegularized:convalescent but not ^having sufficiently recovered from my billious
attack in Natchitoches to encounter much fatigue,
and the long days journey which I had made the day
previous threw me into a high fever, which returned the
next morning with increased violence and disabled me from
promoting my proceeding beyond this gentleman's house.
[Illegible: Time] passed off as pleasantly as was compatible with
the condition of my health. The inmates of the habitation
were not wanting in kindness;' and I had the satisfac‑
tion Regularized:satisfaction of meeting here three of my worthy acquain‑
tances Regularized:acquaintances from Georgia, who were just from the waters of
the Brasos Regularized:Brazos and ^now homeward bound. They had all suffered
more or less from fever & the relazing in debilitating in‑
fluence Regularized:influence of the sun on the broad prairies. They were
bracing themselves up by the potent energies of Quinine
and on their recommendation I took a dose of it myself
which only served to increase hightenRegularized:heighten my fever.

A Camp meeting was held in the neighbor‑
hood Regularized:neighborhood about two miles off. This caused several good ^{from [Illegible: that party]} many
persons of mixed character ^{& from distant sections} to call on ^{impose themselves} on my host ^{for gratuitous accomodation} which
afforded me an opportunity of making several inquiries
in relation to face of the country & the conditions of the principle rivers.
to navigation They satisfied me that the lands were generally
fertile & the water courses not susceptible of extensive navigation.
Here, for the first time I heard anything like political dis‑
cussion; Regularized:discussion a portion of the company enters into it with some

71

warmth, whilst all seemed to take more or less interest in the
matter. Some were in favor of immediate separation from
the Central Gov^t others thought they had no grounds of com‑
plaint Regularized:complaint against Mexico, whilst others expressed [Illegible: from] a desire
to have the country purchased by the U.S. which was also
met with opposition. I found however that all
with one ^{or two} individual exceptions expressed their opinions
with great caution & reserve as if they were affraidRegularized:afraid from
some cause, I know not what, of making their opinions
fully & freely known. Amongst the company was an unfor-
tunateRegularized:unfortunate gentleman, unfortunate in two particulars, first in
having too long a tongue and secondly in having lost his abscond-
ingRegularized:absconding wife; who was too loquacious to be long silent, and too
much taken up with himself to talk upon any other subject.
No matter what topic was introduced,politics ^whether religion, politics
or speculation, he was certain to be the loudest and longest speak-
erRegularized:speaker and as invariably slided from the matter of discussion
into a tedious hystory of his own private affairs - It appears
from his own representation that there dwelt in the
neighborhood an old man who was ^a notorious despiser of truth
and a great dealer in slander who [Illegible: notwithstanding] had a beau-
tifulRegularized:beautiful and true spoken daughter who seems not to have inherited
her father's failings with whom our hero fell desperately
in love and with the brevity of another hero of ancient date
who came, saw and conquered so he woed and won and married this
fair paragon. It is not known how far he was influenced
in the matter by [Illegible: fie] the prospect of securing advantage

72

but certain it is, that in a short time after the happy
union, he demanded of his father-in-law certain cows
bulls and heiffers wh as the rightful property of his blushing
bride purchased by her own labor and secured to her by title
in her maiden name, which aforesaid stock the old man
had promised day to day to deliver but with his proverb-
ialRegularized:proverbial hostility to truth still refused to do. This was not long
to be borne and a quarrel shortly ensued between the party
which increased in violence until they came to open hostility
to each other and [...] of character. One serene
and beautiful evening when our hero was as tranquil
as the close of day, he chucked his bride under the chin,
and laughingly said "I wonder Serena how it happened
that bad a father should have so good a daughter." The
bride flattered with attention and doubtless partaking some
little of the general disgust against the old man, as also
a little indignant at not having her cattle duly surrendered
she said to the good natured husband that if he would
what had [Illegible: passed ] she would tell him something. "An-
gelRegularized:Angel of beauty and goodness I will forgive you any and every thing.
What is it?" "Why" replied the lady, he is not my father
whom you take to be, my mother is my mother, but my
father is another man." Our hero ordinarily was a sen-
sitiveRegularized:sensitive man but he was too much devoted to his fair Serena
to love her less on the account of what she could help -
Parentage and birth was nothing as long as she was all beautiful
and virtuous, and his felicity was not to be interrupted by light

73

74

I was too unwell to attend camp meeting more
than to spend a few hours there on saturday noon.
The congregation was not very large say 150 which was
attributed to the inclemency of the weather. I was told
that one had been held last year in the neighborhood
which was numerously attended. I heard but a part
of a discourse which was interrupted by the rain. The
Preacher's name was Stephenson; he was on a missionary
visit to Texas, but not being allowed anything from
by the Conference out of the missionary fund, his depen‑
dance Regularized:dependance for support was upon the contributions of his con‑
gregations.Regularized:congregations He seemed to be a zealous & sincere
man but if his pay be only in proportion to the qual‑
ity Regularized:qualityof his preaching his maintanceRegularized:maintenance will be scanty
& precarious. A young Minister rose in the pulpit
& announced that a collection would be taken up the next
day for father Stephenson and after the proper quantity
of blarny to his audience he hoped they would not
only be liberal in feeling but also in their pockets—
He was a sharp spruce looking hick who might be
more readily taken for ^{a gawky} country beau than an ambas‑
sadorRegularized:ambassador from God. His shirt and his cravat was tied not
tastilyRegularized:tastefully & neatly but in the manner of the latest fashions and
his shirt collar was equally as broad as mine which you
know is not very narrow, but differing in this particular, that
mine are is turned down, whilst his running to a point
projected like two up to his eyes like the horns of the

75

of the moon and shoving up ^under his ears it seemed almost
to lift him off the ground. He looked like he would have
to mount a stump to spit over his cravat. His name I
knoweth not & if I knew it would be useless to give; he may
probably be really a serous ^serious man in spite of his collar
and a sincere christian in spite of his "false bosom."
I noticed in the congregation among the ladies a due
proportion of beauty, and among the men the usual
order dignity and appearance. Indeed so far as
looks and propriety of conduct & behavior was concerned
I doubt whether you could find in a similar promising
assemblage of the same number, a larger share of it
in any parts of my own State. Two ladies particularly
struck my attention, one of them a married lady whose was married,
whom I afterwards saw at Mr Thompson's, whose per‑
sonalRegularized:personal attractions as well as gracefullness of manners which
united dignity with ease, and elegance with simplicity would
have adorned & enlivened the proudest mansion in any
country. To me she looked like a lost pleiad which had
been shaken from the bands of Orion ^{& was wandering out of its proper sphere}. The other lady
had mild blue eyes, skin that would shame the snow,
and features of pleasing regularity, and nothing
wanting to make her a belle [...] court^{of the first water} at life &
animation. I called her the dead beauty. From a
young physician ^{a native of Virginia & a man of intelligence & good breeding} I procured some calomel and Quinine and
leaving the encampment returned to my lodgings with a
high fever.

76

Monday morning I I said bid adieu to Mr. Thompson and
his worthy lady, some little repleted in the health in my
feelings but wofullyRegularized:woefully deficient in strength; and passing thro'Regularized:through
St. Augustine, a new town with a few framed buildings & a
population of a hundred souls or more, I arrived about one
oclock at Mr George Teels, almost entirely exhausted, where
I dined and tarried until next morning tortured all the while
with a burning fever & most excruciating head ache. I found the
gentleman & his wife polite & kind enough; but there was on
the premises a silent down cast unintelligent selfish looking man
against whom I could not help contracting a strong prejudice
mainly on the account of his appearance & phrenological devel‑
opmentsRegularized:developments. I saw stinginess indelibly stamped upon his countenance
and strongly developed in the appropriate organ; and accor‑
dingly Regularized:accordingly when he went to feed my mare this prinicple of his
nature was fully displayed. I was too unwell at the time
to attend to feeding her myself, but on going to the stable in
a short time after, I found not a blade of oats fodder or
a grain of corn. There was in the trough some five or
cobs which the hungry creature was laboring to masticate ^{to the detriment of her nether jaw}.
I asked this individual if Believing that his old corn was rather
scarce to feed bountifully with it I concluded that I would
give her green corn rather than she for her not to have ebough
to eat she should suffer for the want of food, and accordingly
proposed to him to let the negro boy gather some foderRegularized:fodder
fodder blades from from the field, to which he yielded a
reluctant assent saying that he was affraidRegularized:afraid the stripping of

77

the stalk would injure the ear; the boy came with a few blades
not more than I could span with one hand, and that was
about all which [Illegible: very poor ] I wrench from this man whom I
will call Gripus. To me its astonishing how a human rational
reflecting being can get his conscentRegularized:conscience to play so low and mean
a part and make money by such inhuman means. Such a man
should not only be doomed to travel like the two pilgrims to
mecca with peas in their shoes, but they should perforce
route on a half allowance of bread & water ^{and even this} penance
would hardly attoneRegularized:atone for the inhumanity of half feeding a
traveller's hungry & jaded horse. I had much rather that
my own meals should be abridged by the tavern keeper than
that he should be starved; and when I must left Mr T—
the next morning in settling my bill I felt that I would
rather have paid four fold & had my animal well
provided for with water & provender.

From Mr Teels I reached went to a man by
the name of Martin about 20 miles where I remained until
next morning when I set out in company with a stranger &
reached Nacogdoches about 11 oclkRegularized:o'clock wednesday it being wed‑
nesday Regularized:wednesday morning. Thus you perceive from Natchitoches
to this place, I was few hours more than 7 days coming com‑
ing Regularized:coming; the distance being I should say 130 miles altho'Regularized:although it is
on the map only one hundred.

And now after this long rigamarole, I fancy I
hear you exclaim — "What does all this am^tRegularized:amount to — what
care I about how far you rode & where you tarried —

78

what doth it signify to me who you saw; who fed
your brute; who stinted her allowance— I want to know
something of the face of the country, the character of
its soil and the facilities of transportation—" True the
letterRegularized:latter is dull & altogether unimportant & worthless; but
since you will insist upon my writing lengthyly letters
you must expect them porportionally dull & heavy.
And as for the kind of information which you desire
I can impart all which I have been able to gather
in very few words. I will proceed to do it.
From the Natchitoches to the Sabine the land is of
a thin gray soil such as we find in the poor parts
of the undrained lands of Putnam & Morgan.
I think the country resembles very much the coun—
ties Regularized:counties of Walton and Gwinnett, but not as well watered
and salubrious. I call it a poor county holding out
but few inducements to migrants except the low price
at which it can be procured. But a small portion
of it as yet has been offered for sale, it was not in
demand & and the Gov^t arrested the sales; there are some
few sections open to entry at the Gov^t price 125 cts.
There are on the road good many squatters, who all
expect to hold their possessions when the country is brought
into market by preemption laws. I doubt not that
much valuable lands are to be obtained at the minimum
price, which will be in demand in few years. Poor
persons who wish to get possessions without money &

79

without fines would do well to settle as a squatter in
this section ^{on the road &} near to the Red River. I found the well wa‑
ter Regularized:waterindifferent, at some places bad, and ^nearly all the creeks
& branches along the road were dried up. I saw but
few running streams, and from this I can conclude it to be
a limestone country. The timber is like that which we
usually find on thin soil in Georgia.

Directly we crossed the Sabine, the lands were
altogether of a different nature; the whole face of the
country varies from the east side of the stream. It
It appears that nature designed their river not only as ^{that stream is not only the dividing line be­tween the Govts}
a line boundary between the two Govts but also as a
^{but also a} dividing line between the barren & the fertile lands, ^{for directly}
after crossing the Sabine ^it I passed thro'Regularized:through a skirt of pine‑
woods Regularized:pinewoods about 4 miles in width; and then struck upon
a dark deep red soil which presented one unvaried
appearance of complexion & fertility for — miles until
I reached the Attoyac river. This part of the country is
known in Texas as the red lands. I was told that theRegularized:they
extended on the left side of the road nearly to the
Galveston Bay, on the left s right side further than
has as yet been explored by the whites. The lands cer‑
tainly Regularized:certainly look fine and doubtless are productive, but I should
judge they were of a thirsty nature & would require a
good quantity of rain, which the settlers seem not to
expect. The rains in the summer here are few &
far between. I have been told that they rarely ever

80

have a seasonable year; yet they all seem to cal‑
culate Regularized:calculateupon a good crop of whatever they plant, whether
it rains or not. This year has been very dry yet
I noticed corn & cotton that promised a rich harvest.
This I attribute to the freshness of the fields; I cannot
that when the soil shall have been cultivated for
several years & repeatedly exposed to the sun, that
they will be able to realize what they now gather without
copious & frequent rains. The soil is deep and will
last well. I noticed along the road a good deal of ^indifferent
corn, low yellow, fired & with very small ears. Mr Thom‑
psonRegularized:Thompson where I tarried a few days told me that he expected ex‑
pected Regularized:expected if it did not rain to make 12 hundred pounds
of cotton to the acre in a small field which attracted
my attention; but if it should prove seasonable from
now out, he would make double that; but his land was
unusually good & situated on a small creek.
The red lands are well watered; and the streams
do not dry up as on the east side of the Sabine.
After crossing the Attoyac ^{River which we would call a creek} as I have said above
the land changes. The soil is of light and thin with
sandy foundation; occasionally interspersed with
strips of the red land, but generally very poor much
of it not reaching to ^{what we call in Geo. the} third quality. This
continues to Nacogdoches. From the Sabine to this
place the country is not hilly or mountainous but gently
undulating, and very badly timbered. The size and

81

nature of the timber here is no indication of the ^{depth or} fertility
of the soil. The richest part of the red lands have hardly
enough trees sufficiently straitRegularized:straight & tall for rails to fence it.
It is oak, hickory, black jack & post oak, nearly all
of it of scrubby growth; except on the water courses, and
even on them there are thick sturdy growth of towering trees
as characterize the low forests of ^{Alabama Florida &} Georgia. To me the country
seems delightful; the woods green with grass; abundantly
watered; very easily cleared and remarkably fertile
when opened. I know of no possible objection
to the country except two, its inconvenience to market and the
apprehension that the lands in a few years will require
more rain than usually falls in this country during
the summer season. With regard to the facility of market
the Red river is the only certain navigable stream for all
the produce of the country from this place to Natchitoches.
There is the Sabine, but I cannot assertain ^{with certainty} whether
it is navigable or not; many say that t will be with
a little clearing out; my own impression I have already
expressed in another part of this letter. By refferenceRegularized:reference to
the map you will perceive that I have been speaking of
the lands contained in the three grants of Zavala, Vehlein
& Burnet. These grants are consolidated & owned by what
is called the "New York ^{Galveston Bay} & Texas land company."

82

The Sabine is not navigable it

The mexican women thoRegularized:though far from hansomeRegularized:handsome
are remarkable for their elegance of carriage and
the gracefulness with which they wear the mantle.

Mina in his expedition some of his men being
taken prisoners were hung in consequence of
their not having some showing of citizenship.

83

Miscellaneous
Natives of Texas.

They are of dark swarthy complexion, darker than the
inhabitants of old Spain & not possessing the clear red of
the Indians. They all have black hair & eyes. The women
a far from being hansomeRegularized:handsome, though they are superior to
any of the indian race on regularity of features. The same
remark applies to the men; they seem to be as I presumed
they are in fact an intermediate race between the Span
iard & the Indians Castilian and the children of the
son, ^{varying in their complexion as the Castilian or Montazuma blood prevails}. Gen. Pike says he met with one fair female Mexican
who was by way of distinction called "the girl with
light hair". They are both men & women, kind and hospitable
but none but destitute ^of energy & enterprise, more indolent
than the savages without their patriotism or war-like dispo‑
sition Regularized:disposition. They are extremely fond of singing, dancing, and
such amusements. In manners, customs and dress how‑
ever Regularized:howeverthey are rapidly assimilating themselves to the Americans
a natural & unavoidable effect from their situation ^{& intercourse} amongst them.

These people have long been in possession of the fairest
country in the world, embracing every variety of soil, climate
etc; a country equally adaptable for making sugar, wine, cotton
corn, tobacco, grazing & wool growing, and yet from
their constitutional & habitual indolence & inactivity they
have suffered these advantages to remain unimproved
and now have the regret if they are capable of making
the reflection of seeing the country pass into the possession

84

of another people, and all the blessing which they might
have reaped flow to a race whose presence must, if
not totally operate their extinction, at least keep them in
a state of povery and degradation. The greatest bounty
of providence they have neglected to improve & profit by
and enjoy, and have parted with without even a mess of
pottage in return. Yet these people seem not deficient
in natural genius. They have taste in music, pain‑
ting Regularized:painting & sculpture, and I doubt not if properly cultivated
would be found equal to any of the European Americans.
They seem particularly to have a taste for the mechanic
arts. The skill & ingenuity evinced in the manufactoring of
various articles useful & ornamental, out of gold
silver & wood is evidence enough of their capacity & their happy
adaptation for mechanical and manufactoring pursuits. If the
climate be too relaxing to them for them to pursue agricul‑
tural Regularized:agricultural vigor and success, they might have directed
their attention to employments more better suited to their
their climate & habits & disposition; they might have become
a manufactingRegularized:manufacturing people; and growing their own wool and
cotton ^{& silk}, the finest in the world, with little labor or exertion,
they might have rivalled the European nations
and furnished the american with people secured themselves
the trade of their ^{agricultural neighbors}, the American people. But instead of realizing
these blessings, they have preferred to languish in poverty indo‑
lance Regularized:indolance & poverty, and have suffered their country the most delightful
^provinceland in the world under the sun to remain continue for more

85

than a century unreclaimed & unenjoyed.

Wild Horses

The Mexicans are the best riders in the world, and
in war no cavalry would stand before them. They are equal
to the fierce and wild CamanchaRegularized:Comanche. When one is mounted it
is impossible to unhorse him. He will bridle and saddle
the wildest Mustang in forest on the prarieRegularized:prairie and leaping
on his back will lead defiance to any exertions which
the animal may make to free itself. Their triumph over
the terrified or infuriated steed ^beast is owing to nature of the
bit which is forced in his mouth and the counteraction of
saddle leather upon his back; the one being of iron, large
and strong and contrived with a lever power that can almost
disjoint the ^nether jaw, whilst the latter well fitted to the back
of the animal so that it cannot turn, has broad stirrups
thro'Regularized:through which the foot cannot ^{is secure from} slips, and a high pummenelRegularized:pommel
in front, reared up nearly to the breast of the rider over
which he draws a check rein and which he can seize
& support himself in any ^{danger or} emergency. Thus mounted the
terrified & infuriated animal may rear & kick down
the plains, bound down & rush into rivers
all unavailingly, for the rider secure in his seat but laughs
at the efforts and spurs him into more furious cantering.

Their horses are strong and athletic notwithstanding
their diminuitive size, being certainly larger than the Ozark
horses but not near equal to the English or American breed. They
breed the most of what they own, as the most of the wild

86

have returned far into the interior on the Nueces
River ^{where they are lured not by the grass but by the salt lagoons}. A few however are still inhabiting the prarieRegularized:prairie
between high up on the rivers of Brazos & the Colorado
but they are rapidly receeding from the advances of
human footsteps & In a few ^more years they will be found
only the neighborhood of the Rocky Mountains. They are still
however occasionally hunted by the natives on the Colorado ^{where they are many as numerous as the trees in the forest.}
Traffic in these ^{occupants of the plains} wild horses has was ^constituted once the principle
business intercourse between the Americans & Mexicans,
and it was in catching & taming^breaking these ^{free &} untamed coursers
of the forest that they became such ^so expert and
intrepid in this horsemanship equestrians. The ass and the mule
herd with the mustang & when a drove of either is to be
taken for domestic purposes or for exportation, the plan
adopted is to form a small enclosure with a narrow inlet ^entrance
from which entrance inlet they extend run out wings
^{are run out} for a considerable distance into the prairie in doing as they
line these until the mouth is sufficiently extended ^expanded not to
attract the attention of the animals or alarm ^excite their appre‑
hensions Regularized:apprehensions. ^{the game Thus preparedWhen this is done the Mexicans hunters go in quest of} Mounted on horses trained for the[Illegible: business] of the
best speed and bottom ^{trained to the business} and strongly caparisoned they roam the
plains until they find a ^{drove of} suitable drove ^size of to five hundred
of to three hundred which they deploy and lure into ^{the mouth of} the
^{center did} wings which have been extended by sending a horse or two of
their own, drilled to purpose & sensible of their duty, to head
the drove. The disciplined animal moves carelessly on in
the path prescribed whilst the unsuspecting mustangs follow

87

on like a mighty cavalcade in the footsteps of the pioneer,
until they are fairly hedged in by fences on either and
their prisoners in the rear. The Mexicans now, loosing ^slacking the
saddle-bows and planting their long spurs
of steel into the flanks of their horses, they charge furiously
upon the bewildered and terrified drove, which driving them
ahead like a ^{with the confusion of a} routed soldiery until forced through
a narrow portal they find themselves encompassed by a
small impregnible enclosure which resists ever deperate
effort to escape. ^{Thus like a band of human asses are they betrayed of their freedom by two blindly following leaders}. Next they are caught by having a long rope
with a running noose adriotly thrown over their necks. The
likeliest of the flock are selected and the balance set at
left free, to cut ^lonesome their wild gambles on the bead ^{luxrientRegularized:luxuriant} prarieRegularized:prairie.
They ^{is the} rise ^chosen as selected & the weed thrown away; & As it is with
the mustang on the plain so it is with man; the very beauty &
strength that gives the one supremacy on the plain ^{is the cause of his} [Illegible: lead about in]
the loss of liberty, whilst with the the unhappiness or to ruin
of the other is often not than otherwise wrought by the very
qualities which exalt him among his fellow creatures—

The wild horse is said to be the Andalusian blood
crossed by the Arabian. ThoRegularized:Though small they show their
blood. They are adapted for war or distant journies
as they can live upon much less and perform equal labor.
They are not heavy enough for draughtRegularized:draft horses; they can
travel on grass ^alone when other horses would fail altogether.
Travellers in Texas should provide them duly with a
good one in prefferenceRegularized:preference to American horses.

88

When taken young they do well, but the old ones
are apt to run away. the method of breaking them
to the saddle is barbarous; it is done by starvation and
hard riding. One newly caught is mounted and suffered
to race ^take over the prarieRegularized:prairie his own course, but spur‑
red Regularized:spurred at every leap until he is perfectly exhausted and
stops of his own accord. The same thing is repeated
& the animal suffered until he is entirely subdued.
The Andalusian horses are the purest mounts in this
world they are so called because of the place where they are
bought in Spain called Andalusia-Page 144

The Comanches

These indians inhabit the mountainous district of
San Saba, which they cross both in the Spring & atum
Autumn, & where they deposit their family occasion‑
ally Regularized:occasionallyduring their long expeditions. These indians generally
kill the buffalowRegularized:buffalo with bows & arrows. Horses trained for it
sometimes they kill them with spears. The buffalowRegularized:buffalo is
so acute in its scent that they cannot get in shooting distance
of them to kill them with their rifles. They are docile placable
timid until wounded when they become furious & make
terrible & dangerous war upon there adversary. Their flesh is
food for the Indians, and their skin an article of traffic.
They are [Illegible: suca] skillful in tanning them with so and
imparting to them a pliability equal to the dressed deerskin
of the Creek indians. Their trade is altogether in wild horses ^{and mules}. They catch hundreds
& thousands, tame them & then herd ^{& graze} them as cattle. Equine trade carried on with them
from St. Louis & various posts of agriculture. They never pretend to make corn
not even for bread; they eat alone from year to year. The country is fertile but all prarieRegularized:prairie.
See Page 116

89

The nearest settlement to Galveston Bay with the exception of
one family near the fish bar is forty miles to Anahuac, or about
the same distance at the mouth of the San Jacinto. Mr Holby

Taken from the
Cincinnati Gazette Nov 1829

It is susceptible of no division that can make more than
4 states— Of those 4 two would be ^{maratimeRegularized:maritime} and the coast
and 2 would be interior— The two maratimeRegularized:maritime would
also be agricultural— The other two would be far‑
ming Regularized:farming , grazing & mineral states; air salubrious, climate
delightful— In the rear of these interior states would be
a region of mountanousRegularized:mountainous & barren country, which in the pro‑
cess Regularized:process of some century, when the redman & the beasts are
exterminated might form two temporal Gov^ts.—

The term Texas is usually understood to designate the
whole tract of country lying between the Southwestern
boundary of the US and the Grande. "Stirctly speaking
& according to the political arrangement Texas does not
include the whole of that region."—" There is The federal state of Tamau‑
lipas Regularized:Tamaulipas spreads to the river Nueces which empties 120
miles north of Rio Grande in the Gulf."— Coahuila
scallops out of what is geographically called Texas a
tract equal to Tamaulipas— "The country between the
Nueces & Rio Grande for near 100 interior from the Gulf, is
out continuous prarieRegularized:prairie and excepting a belt of 20 miles
in depth is an arid sandy &

90

sandy and sterile plain, affording scarcely sufficient
herbage to sustain the few deer that no & wild horses
that roam upon it." "The Nueces is a long narrow
stream incapable of any useful navigation and distinct
of a harbor for anything superior to a shallows."
"Matamoras imports goods to the amt. of several mill‑
ion Regularized:million dollars annually, which are sent up on
pack mules to Monterey, Saltillo, Chihuahua,
Durango, Zacatecas, San Louis PotosiRegularized:San Luis Potosi , & many
other minor inland towns" it contains from 7 to 9
thousand inhabitants & increasing with unchecked
rapidity" Matamoras lies in Tamaulipas. "The
acquisition of it to this Gov^t would be of no value
for the country on this side of the Rio Grande &
proximate to Texas the Brazos St. Iago is inca‑
pable Regularized:incapable of supporting even a hamlet for fishermen."

In the House of Representatives of the U.S. on the tariff ^{in 1833}
W. Thomas of Louisiana remarked "What would
be the condition of the plating if there if it (duties on cotton)
should be taken off? They had He was not for letting
Texas into her market (Louisiana). Let Texas hunt a
market as Louisiana had done.

Texas forms an inclined plain from theRocky Mountains
to the sea. It is all gently undulating until within
sixty of the coast where it becomes level. 70,000 ^acres Sugar Land.

91

In 1827 the population of Texas was 10,000. Now it is 36,000.
The territory is equal in extent to that of France.
Its sea course is not less than 350 to 400 miles long
7000 ^{to 10,000} bales of cotton made in Texas.

Law passed in 1830 prohibiting Americans from settling, repealed 1834
After passing Zavalla Mount & Velhim's grants you enter into
a prarieRegularized:prairie county. With the exception of these grants Texas
generally may be said to be a prarieRegularized:prairie country skirted by
timber on all the water courses. This is particularly the
case after passing the Trinity; and as you advance to
the north west they are of vast extent. Dense forests
are to be found on Brazos & other rivers but never on the
high lands.

Cane ripens several inches higher than in Louisiana.

The ^states composing the Mexican Rep Federative
Republic are the state of Chiapas , Chihuahua ,
Coahuila & Texas , Durango , GuanajuatoRegularized:Guanaxuato , Mexico ,
New Leon , OajacaRegularized:Oaxaca , Puebla de los Angeles
Queretaro , San Luis Potosi , SinoraRegularized:Sonora & Sinaloa , Tabas‑
co Regularized:Tabasco , Tamaulipas , Vera Cruz , Xalisco , Yucatan
Zacatecas ; the territory of Upper CaliaforniaRegularized:California , Lower
CaliaforniaRegularized:California , Colima , & Santa Fe of New Mexico .

Coahuila & Texas would probably been separate
state if Mexico had not been jealous of American legislation
Coahuila lies more adjacent to mexico, and is populated
chiefly by Mexicans, here they were attached to Texas
as a check in the Legislature.

92

Natchitoches

My ague & fever at Natchitoches was the first that I
had ever had, at least for so many years that I had no relation of
the feelings produced. It is all dreadful disease; I felt like I
was in a state of depotation; sliding on the polar ices, but burnt
up at the same time. The fever notwithstanding the extreme
agony into which it threw me gave double calamity to the mind;
I was all night long writing poetry, making speeches, fighting battles
soaring with the eagles & throwing them in among the rocky mo‑
untains Regularized:mountains. My heart at the same time felt it was a vesuvius
pouring its burning lava throRegularized:through the brain—

Before reaching Thompsons, my mare whilst riding
along in a slow walk without any object apparently to
frighten her, suddenly gave a tremendous snort "and
back recoiled I knew not why" and made a
desperate effort to beat a retreat; presently I heard
something like the music of a grasshopper and dis‑
covered Regularized:discovered but a few paces before me stretched ^coiled in the
road a large ^bloated reptile with venom spewing
from his fangs as if ready to strike and his tail
surgingan note admonitory note ^{a note of defiance & warning} as made as to say
let the "admonished beware". I had no fiddle like
Chattanbrain to charm the monster into peace & compla-
cencyRegularized:complacency
accordingly had to retreat for a while
until suitably armed. I subdued the monster with^{by the potancy of} a long pole
instead of doing with music ^{doing it by the powers of harmony} music. See Serpents "[Illegible: & bears]
of Palestine"

93

Natchitoches

Arrived there sick; D^r Lewis my physician who
neglected me yet brought in an enormous bill of 49.75
Remember nothing he done for me except bleeding me
once, presenting some pills & quinine after; ,his dis‑
gusted Regularized:disgusted with neglect and indignant I sent for his ^associated
partner in his pra the practice D^r. Heard who called to
see me once. Lewis is a drunken self-conceited ass.
The family also neglected me; the old lady & 4 daughters.
Lewis invested to his wedding; he was to marry one of the girls
in the town. From a traveller who had just arrived
from the Brazos, I purchased a mare bridle & saddle, giving
him his full price without jewing him 110$. After the
bargain was concluded & he paid he threw me a ^rough staff
like a walking cane with a hollow tube fettered to the ^one end
of it. the other end pointed The use of this staff was
to support your umbrella in riding by passing planting one
end in a leather socket attached to the stirrup leather, and
sticking the handle of the umbrella in the tube
attached at the other end. As the man I purchased it of
him and found finding it a great convenience I by turn
recommend it to you when you have to carry an umrella
on horseback; but I leave it you to say whether
it was liberal & generous in the man from whom I
purchased then to make me pay one dollar for this article
for which he had no further use. He should have thrown
it in with the saddle & briddle, but instead of this he sold
it, making by the transaction a dollar & losing his character for liberality.

94

St. Denys

When he was sent in occupancy with some Canadians
& Indians to arrest the Spaniards in their attempts to form
a settlement in the neighborhood of Natchitoches he was &
also to proceed into the intended provinces of Spain to find
sale for Cozats goods; he reached Natchitoches free of any
adventure. This was in 1714. He left some of his Canadians
here (after erecting huts for them) & there proceeded into ^for the
internal provinces of Spain with 12 Canadians with him. He
went to where LaSalle was murdered. He forced them to the Bravo,
where he was apprehended ^arrested by Don Pedro who sent him to the Gov^t
of Caonis 200 miles, who sent him thence to Mexico, 700 miles, where
he was imprisoned for 3 months; released & conveyed back by the Govt.
to Caonis. Thence he proceeded to Don Pedro's & married his
daughter; and finally got to Mobile about two years from the time
he started on his journey. The Canadians left at Natchitoches by
DenysRegularized:Louis Juchereau de St. Denis was the [Illegible: conimecent] of that town. In 1816 after his return
a detachment under the command of Dustine was sent there to
build & garrison a fort. This was the foundation of Natchitoches—

In 1718 DenysRegularized:Louis Juchereau de St. Denis went to Mexico to obtain a release of the goods
which had been taken from in his expedition of 1714. Here he was im‑
prisoned Regularized:imprisoned but released in a month & his goods restored. He sold his goods
on credits & never rec^dRegularized:received pay^tRegularized:payment; he therefore damn^dRegularized:damned the Spaniards for which
he was again imprisoned, but soon obtained release & means of escape
throRegularized:through the friends of his wife, he fled for home ^{at Mobile} with percipitation
On his return home he was ordered to give up his command of Mand &
take command of Natchitoches. Having done so in 1720, and continuing

95

in prosperity for two years, when his ^{tranquility & [...] was disturbed more} by the Gov. of
Texas Gallo who advanced upon Natchitoches with goods & soldiers
determined to trade or fight; shortly, he was assailed by the Natchez, but
St. DenysRegularized:Louis Juchereau de St. Denis maintaining his ground, achieved many exploits and repelled
his invaders.; His exploits drove the Natchez into peace after a long war
in 1734. His [...] this history further. Natchitoches continued
to move along in a slow pace of improvement for many years. In 1769 its
[Illegible: proprietor was the] so that from St. DenysRegularized:Louis Juchereau de St. Denis victory over the Natchez
to 1769 a period of 35 years if could boast of He.

After Louisiana had been purchased by the U.S. the Span‑
iards Regularized:Spaniards in Texas still envied the same disposition to encroach upon
Natchitoches. Natchitoches certainly ought to have belonged to Texas
but the French having settled it & retaining possession, it was claimed
as a part of Louisiana. The Spaniards possessing Nacogdoches had
always wished to be in possession of this point of trade (Natchitoches).
They accordingly still kept up their incredulity upon it.

In 1806 a part of the soldiers from the fort at Nacogdoches
were sent to build a new establishment about ^{4 or} 14 miles from Natchitoches
at the Adyes. ^{The Spaniards had many years previous settled Adyes together with Simon Herrera from N. LeonRegularized:Nuevo Leon} . The Gov^t of Texas with an army of 7 hundred &
a consideralRegularized:considerable force crossed the Trinity with a view of sustaining
this new settlement. The U.S. warned them not to approach; they
replied that they did not wish to conquer this part of the territory, but
that they had a right to patrol ^{plant a fort} there to prevent a contraband trade.
Nacogdoches was greatly reinforced & the U.S. perceiving the simplicty
of annexing her forces also ordered Gen. Wilkinson to repair there
with his army forthwith. Claiborne also sent some militia ^{& their army moved for the Sabine}—. Shortly
after the arrival of these forces at Natchitoches the [Illegible: news reached ]

96

^however Burr's conspiracy broke out, which rendering Wilkinson
forever (as he himself demured) necessary in N.O.Regularized:New Orleans . He thought it
best to make peace with Herrera & the Gov^t of Texas and
after stating to those that his object in going to the Sabine was
not war but a peaceful occupancy of the rightful territory of the
U.S. and then proposed to the Gov. that if he would the Spanish
forces should be withdrawn to Nacogdoches, he would withdraw
the American forces to Natchitoches; and that the U.S. would not
thereafter cross the Arroyo Hondo if the Spaniards would not the
Sabine. To this arrangement all parties finally assented, peace was
restored, and Wilkinson ^{the mighty warrior of the Sabine} hastened to OrleansRegularized:New Orleans to attend to the affairs
of Burr where he figured as largely as he did on the Sabine.

At Nacogdoches some travellers arrived and
told the horrible tale of the mob rising in some town
in Mississippi and arbitrarily hanging some gam‑
blers Regularized:gamblers and a tavern keeper. The wife of the tavern keep‑
er Regularized:keeper requested that the dead body of her husband might
be delivered to her for decent burial, which they refused
and threw it into a ditch—

The T'esh ^Ayish bayou embracing the country round about
St. AugustineRegularized:San Augustine is called by the Americans Irish Bayou
but the true name is from the tribe of Indians called
T_eshe.

Communicated by Joseph Dust
Tribes of Indians in Texas
This side River Grande

98

History of Texas

Hunter an Englishman proceeded to Mexico
in 1820 to obtain a Grant of land for the Cherokees,
he failed in his mission, returned among the
indian, prevailed upon some to come without
permission and in 1827 raised an army of
them joined by some 40 or 50 Americans and
commanded by hunter & a half breed by the
name of Fields. Their avowed object was to
conquer Texas and call it Freedomia. They were met
by the Mexicans and driven back. Austin's small
colony aided in repelling them; the Indians sued
for peace, and Bowles for the purpose of reconci‑
ling Regularized:reconcilingthe Mexicans proposed to Beene (an American
who had been long acting as colonel in the Mexican
Gov^t) that Hunter and Fields should be given up
to [Illegible: ato]not only to restore peace but also to attonRegularized:atone
for the death of the Mexican who had fallen in
the skirmish, the only man killed in the affair tho'Regularized:though
several were wounded. The proposition was
assented to & the indians accordingly killed
Hunter in about 20 miles of Nacogdoches; Fields
fled with his family across the Sabine. He
was pursued by 2 Cherokees and ^cowardly murdered at
his camp. there were no Indians engaged
in the way but the Cherokees, and this was the
first introduction of the Cherokees in Texas. This
party of them had quarrelled with the chiefs

99

of the nation in Arkansas and joined Fields
and Hunter, seceded from the tribe and came to
Texas. The history of Fields is this; he had killed
some Cherokee in Arkansas & thereby forfeited
his life, but he had seen Hunter & learnt his
scheme. Fields accordingly proposed to the offen‑
ded Regularized:offended tribe that he would procure them lands
in Texas if they would pardon him. They agreed
to it, but when Hunter failed to get the grant
and told them that the land was theirs & they
then they took an army to defend what they thought
belonged to them. Hunter's name was John B.
Page 148

Lands from NacogdoRegularized:Nacogdoches

Lands from Nacogdoches to the Angelina ^{distance 22 miles} pronou‑
ncedRegularized:pronounced Au-ha-le-na, is poor, the most of it being
sandy land, with occasional good tracts near the
water courses. After crossing the river I am told the
land is good and very level, continuing into the
Natches distance 16 miles. From naches to the Trinity
upwards of 50 the country is attractive, the quality of
the soil varying ^{from the most fertile to the most barren} After crossing Trinity we bid adieu to
any thing like freestone water, well are used alto‑
getherRegularized:altogether shallow & affording no pleasant refreshing and
delightful draught. True

100

I left Nacogdoches Tuesday 26th July and
reached the Angelina at the setting of the sun. The
weather most intolerably hot; I coughed up blood & bile
every five steps of the way; had a dreadful time of it, but
finally reached the river, took lodgings with Mr. Geo. Dust
when I was completely prostrated with the fever; took
heavy dose of calomel but still I coughed up bile as bitter
as quinine mixed with mucus from lungs. I afterward
tried Tartar ^{at night} like to have died under the operation
the next day morning swallowed a heavy dose of blue masses
and rhubarb & aloes. This left me nerveless. My stomach
was injured by the Tartar, have no been able to digest any
thing since, dyspeptic as the devil, but the fever seems
to have left me & I am now trying the quinine. I expect
to leave here tomorrow morning which will be Monday the 1st
August.

See page 105

At Nacogdoches, a D^r Hart stepped into the
office of a Judge with whom he felt agrieved in
some way, & laying a brace of pistols on the table invited
the man of civil authority ^Law to take one & settle the dispute between them by
this ^{ancient &} honorable trial by battle; this was certainly exalting the
military above the Civil authority; and the honorable
man of the green bag & wool sack, having once taken
up arms in Nacogdoches against this very principle
could not consistently with his past conduct & present profession, do
otherwise than decline the honor which the chivalrous Knight of the Pestle ^politely in‑
tended Regularized:intended. The result of the matter was, that the Dr had judgement pronounced against
his pistols, fined 50 dollars for the indignity offered to our officer of
Gov^t & 50 dollars to the Judge himself for the fright & for some other cause unknown.

101

History of Texas—

Nacogdoches was first settled about 1779. When
When Adayes on the east side of the Sabine 17 miles
from Natchitoches was broken up, the garrison was
removed to Nacogdoches

In 1812 the Mexicans in the Interior ^Coahuila made an effort
to establish a republic in their country. They
sent Gen. Bernard to Texas to the Sabine & in the
U.S. for assistance; the Gov^t took no notice of it, but
suffered him to get as many volunteers as he
could; he succeeded in obtaining 150 Americans;
Spain hearing of the movement sent on a consid‑
erable Regularized:considerable force to arrest & subdue them. When they
reached the Sabine, their advance guard had
two of their men suddenly shot down by the other
party; this threw panic among the Spaniadsish
army which retreated to Nacogdoches.

Whilst the Spanish army was marching to
the Sabine they took by force four American
settlers in Texas and compelled them to bear arms
against Bernard & his men; one of these 4 peremp‑
torily Regularized:peremptorily refused & was ironed; when their advanced
guard were fired on & the army broke the other
three Americans departed & joined their country‑
men Regularized:countrymen under Bernard. The Americans pursued
the Spanish forces to Nacogdoches & reached there
([Note: Adayes had been frequently broken up; I allude to the first.])

102

in time to save the life of the ^American prisoner who had
refused to fight just about to be executed. The
Spaniards fled & retreated to St. AntonioRegularized:San Antonio . The
Americans pursued them, and concluded to
take possession of Sabbardee because it was a
good fort. They marched directly to Sabbardee &
secretyl advanced into the fort at the very mo‑
ment Regularized:moment the garrison was beating a revaller; the
terrified soldiers leaped the walls & fled & thus
the fort was taken without the fire of a gun.
Third day after the fort was taken an army
came of 1700 advanced upon the fort; in a few
days they had a reinforcement of 4 or 6 hundred
more Spaniards. Thus was the fort compassed
by an army of 2,000 or more whilst in the fort there
were only about 150 Americans & 250 Mexicans
who had joined them. A struggle ensued which
lasted for 4 months; fighting every day until the
soldiers in the fort finally issued out and com‑
pletely Regularized:completely routed the enemy & drove them to San
Antonio. The Americans pursued, the Spanish
army with reinforcements met them about 4 miles
from town, a battle erupted, the Spaniards fled & the
Americans took possession of S. AntonioRegularized:San Antonio . They took
13 ^Spanish officers prisoners, and under the pretense of sending
them to Majorca to ship them out of the country
they were secretly taken away & every one of their

103

throats cut. This horrid transaction was
committed by a few blood thirsty men without the
knowledge or approbation of the troops and so
soon as the troops heard of it, it created such uni‑
versal Regularized:universal disgust & abhorence that they threatened to dis‑
band Regularized:disband & some to take just vengeance on the perpetrators.
Gaines at the Sabine was an officer & was about to
resign & return home rather than be associated with
such men. The American & Mexican troops remain‑
ed Regularized:remained at San Antonio until Louisiana came with an army
which was easily dispersed.

In the fight previous about 4 miles from town
the Commandant of the Spanish forces felt so confident
of beating the Americans when he could get them
in open prarieRegularized:prairie, that he actually loaded a mule
with strings to tie the prisoners when he took
them; they were then whipped in 15 minutes &
killed.

At last Gen^lRegularized:General Bernard was succeeded
to the Command after the first battle at San
Antonio by Tolado. About 15 days after this battle
Spain sent another army under Aradones and the Americans
& Mexicans less successful under their new leader
were completely whipped & routed after
lives of glorious achievements exploits. The routed troops
broke for the Sabine; the Spaniards purused & took
28 Mexicans & 3 Americans prisoners; They discharged

104

the Americans & shot the Mexicans. Thus
the war of 1812 & 1813; between the Mex‑
icans Regularized:Mexicans & Old Spain; in an effort for independence.

See page 112

Aradondo, after shooting the prisoners proceeded to
Nacogdoches thence to Natchitoches and with a view
of learning whether the routed would rally again, he
went privately to Natchitoches and there endeavored
himself to raise volunteers & being unable to get any,
he was satisfied that the war was at an end.

Second Expedition

Mina a Frenchman came & made headquarters
at Galveston, gathered 60 or 80 men, moved to Matagoria
accomplished nothing & debarked for the interior & after a short sweep was finally overthrown. Thus
ends his efforts. Then came General Long, formerly Dr. an
American. StaidRegularized:stayed 2 months at Nacogdoches and
gathered 70 to 80 soldiers; the Spaniards under
^{Col.Regularized:Colonel} Anashupas came 400 put him to flight & took
80 prisoners. Long went to the interior ^{proceeded to Mexico} and was
received as a General Officer in the army of ^Old Mexico
(that country having now declared indepenndence)
and foolishly lost his life by obstinately
refusing the countersign to one of his own
certainly who shot him dead. This brings the
history up to 1821 (see page 111)

105

During the revolution of 21Regularized:1821 in Mexico the Texas
remained in a passive condition, huzaing alter‑
nately Regularized:alternately for the king and then for Mexico as they
could hear of the triumphs of either. They were
altogether submissive to the power that be; to either
as they prevailed.

After the establishment of this Independence
of Old Mexico, Coahuila & Texas formed one of the
federative states. Then came the Fredonian War.

My Journey Continued See page 123

I left Nacogdoches Tuesday 28th July 1835 proce
in company of a man named ^Frank Adams living near St Philipe.
I left in extremely bad health, coughing blood & burning with
the bilious fever; the weather extremely hot; my sufferance
was excessive; about 18 miles we reach a house (Mr Costleys) where
I was so entirely overcome that death seemed to be upon me;
I took cup of Tea, & late in the evening proceeded to
Mr Joseph Dust's; where I lay for 6 days with a burning fever
taking tartar Calomel & other medicine all the while until
I became almost helpless. I found Mr. Dust an open
independent man with a good show of intelligence, who imparted
to me much useful & interesting information. He treated me
with ^the politeness & Kindness of a gentleman; and on expressing my
determination to make an effort to proceed on my journey, he
promptly tendered me the loan of his Jersey waggonRegularized:wagon to
carry me to another Stand about 21 miles, which I with
gratitude accepted. One of his negroes rode my mare, and
Mexican hired by Dust drove the waggonRegularized:wagon which I lay stretchedstre‑
tched Regularized:stretched in the bottom burning with the fever. About 3 OclkRegularized:o'clock
we reached Mr McClanes my destined point. I asked
the driver what I should pay him for his trouble; he
replied nothing; but as he had been very attentive to me in
sickness I gaive him 2 dollars a pr of martingales & a spur.

M^r McClane I found to be a snug farmer, well
fixed, good man, but a most self conceited dunce, who
had read some newspapers about 10 years ago & thought he

114

himself master of the politics of the world. I attempted
occasionally to urge some of my own views in opposition to
his, but I never could so express myself as to be understood.
I have frequently been placed in this situation where I
completely failed in every effort to render myself intelligible. I
went to McClanes with the expectation remaining some time
until I should improve in strength & health; but I found him
so little enclined to enquire into my wants & volunteer assistance
that after one day's & 2 nights' intolerable suffingRegularized:suffering I bid adieu
to him and set off for M^r Master's where I was informed
that I would be rec^dRegularized:received with politeness & treated kindly; the
distance was twelve miles only, but so scorching was my
fever this morning, & so debilitated was I by the medicine taken
the day before, that I liked to have died on the way; I
succeded however in reaching the place, where I am at
this moment, penning this memorandum.

The lands from Nacogdoches to this place, may
be pronounced generally of the medling ^second quality, very
seldom except one water course rising above it and often
falling below it & rising into barronessRegularized:barrenness On the east west.
sides of Between the Angeline & the Naches 16 or 18 miles we
pass thro some prarieRegularized:prairie, poor & like all prairie without water.
From the Naches to Master's the country ^gradually improves a little; and
here we find good land; we strike into the black prairie; &
bid adieueRegularized:adieu, a final adieu to all good water.

From Nacogdoches to this place, though represented as

115

of the first class of land, yet it will sustain a population
sufficiently dense for an agricultural people Though it have
much barronRegularized:barren land it has a great deal of 2nd quality and some
of the first fertility.

From the Sabine to the Attoyac I would say aboun‑
ded Regularized:abounded in the best lands, best water, & would admit of the most
dense population of any of the country that I have yet passed
over; From the Attoyac to this place I would say
was of varied quallities, now good deal of it barren some little very
fertile, but the large portion of it either of second quality or
running into barronessRegularized:barrenness. How the CountyRegularized:Country from the Sabine which I
call the woodland country to the place where ^Trinity will compare
with the prairie which commences ^{after crossing Trinity} and terminates ^{I know} not where
I shall yet have to see. The Prairie begins at Mr Hunters &
I am told indians as are proceed either towards the sea coast of to
the mountains From Nacogdoches to the Angelina I call it 22 miles
from thence to the Naches 16 miles; thence to McLean's 7 miles; thence
to this place M^r Master's 14 miles; making in the whole 59 miles.
From here to the Trinity I am told it is 36 miles; the lands
better than what I have passed over from Nacogdoches. with some—
We pass thro' the mustang prairie a few miles winter only

See 224

In Georgia we cannot judge of the country generally by
the lands on the road, for the roads are usually run on the high
and most barren country ridges; but here there are no high ridges
to select for good roads, for the whole face of the county is gently
undulating & so uniform, that a road in one place is as good
as an other; the country thro'Regularized:through which they pass is usually a fair speci‑
men Regularized:specimenof the country for some distance on either side—

116

The Comanchas

See page 88

The ComanchasRegularized:Comanches are warlike and fight on horseback; they
drill themselves & horses on the prairie; their mode of fight is to
form a circle round their enemy, & Keep riding round & round
like circus riders, constantly drawing nearer the enemy, until
they get in shot of them; they then draw their arrows and com‑
mence Regularized:commence attack, still keeping up their circular gallop; narrowing
or widening the circle as they are successful in the fight or are
repelled by the encompassed enemy. They have some
thing which they ^intend as a shield wearing it on the arm pre‑
sented Regularized:presented to the enemy. It is made of leather lightly stretched like a
tamborineRegularized:tambourine and covers ^covering the shoulder & side & which they mainly im‑
magine Regularized:imagine will turn the balls of the foe. The horses are well trained
to this mode of combat; they go into battle & perform their part without
the necessity of the bit; performing just as well by having a simple
rope tied round their mane & used by the rider as a bridle.

A traveller who had been amongst them told me that on
one occasion when the news had reached the village where he
tarried, that two of their popular Captains had been slain in war
they a large band of them gathered with their various instruments
of music & approached the tent in which he lay, and played at the
door many mournful & truly affecting airs, the women singing at
the same time & thus proceeded to every tent in the village. Notwith‑
standing Regularized:Notwithstanding his apprehensions for his own safety the traveller says he
could not refrain from weeping at this ceremony requimRegularized:requiem of the
dead. By the same individual I am informed that their
tents are made of BuffaloeRegularized:buffalo skins tanned or dressed perfectly white,

117

They sew together a number of hides, making a long roll of it.
When they wish to pitch a tent, they form a circular frame work
of forks & hickory [Illegible: niffs] around which they wrap this roll of skins
beginning at the ground and winding round until they reach
the top leaving a small hole for the escape of the smoke;
the entrance into the tent is a small hole just large enough for
a man to creep through; thus forming a habitation very much in
its outward configuration resembling a hornet's nest, and having in‑
wardly Regularized:inwardly very much also of the hornet-temperament & severity—

In hunting BuffaloeRegularized:buffalo, about a hundred will turn out
and after surrounding them they set the dogs on them & get
them greatly confused, then pouring a shower of arrows among
them, they call off the dogs & all retire; leaving the wounded
animals to themselves; the wounded portion of the herd
growing sick, are anxious to lie down; and it is then that
ComanchasRegularized:Comanches come upon them again & make easy prey of them.
After wounding them, if the fight be kept up, the animal becomes
enraged and will make hot war upon their pur‑
suers Regularized:pursuers, or run entirely off; but if left alone immediately after
being wounded, they lie down, grow sick, & become incom‑
petent Regularized:incompetent for fight or flight. The Indians prefer to drive them
between mountains if practicable. Sometimes they hurry large
droves over tremendous precipices, & kill killing hundreds of them
falling pell mell & are dashed to death on the rocks below.

Being a wandering people, they are entire stran‑
gers Regularized:strangers to the feeling so ardently cherished by other tribes, and

118

I may say by the human race: viz attachment to country.
They know nothing of the passion; where game abounds
there is their home; and it matters not whether it be
upon the luxurientRegularized:luxuriant & expansive prairie or
among the stupendous precipices & rocks of a realm of
mountains. With the mustang & the buffaloeRegularized:buffalo no country
is to rugged; and without them no fertile plains, no
smiling, no genial skies are at all inviting. All the
the beauties ^{and blessings}of nature, all the blessings of industry; all
that ^{the luxuries that} God and art have contributed to place within
the reach of man, despised and unheeded by this
iron race who seem to have no aim ambition or
desire beyond the Steed they ride and & the beast
they feed on, to eat, to drink, to sleep to toss their strong
& flexileRegularized:flexible limbs in the uncouth wildness of native liberty
& unrestrained lisenceRegularized:license. How different from this is it
with the Creeks & the Cherokees. Their attachment to the
land of their fathers seem to increase, as the blessings of the
land decline. After game has fled; after all which is
to them desirable have passed away; their towns depopu‑
lated Regularized:depopulated; their huts destroyed; their hunting grounds circum‑
scribed Regularized:circumscribed; when indeed every thing which was congenial
to their feelings, and character or associated with their habits,
customs & pleasing recollections, have been extirpated by the
gradual invades of civilization, yet still they cling to the
spot of earth that affords them a scanty subsistance where
they must ever find no friend their rights are not regarded

119

their inferiority is felt, without friends to alleviate distress
or justice to afford protection, in prefferenceRegularized:preference to removing to a coun‑
try Regularized:country freely offered them suited to their habits, where game
abounds and individual & national prosperity may be revived
as in the brightest period of their hystoryRegularized:history. Are they told
that they are friendless here, that their lands are in the hands of
strangers, that their hunting grounds are torn by the ploughshare?
Are they told Are they told that they will have snug valliesRegularized:valleys
in the west, where the buffaloeRegularized:buffalo are as numerous as the leaves
on the trees, where they can hunt the deer in freedom &
catch the wild horse like herds of cattle, it is all in vain — they
but cling to their native haunts the closer; these but
bind them to their native hills the more—

Reflection

In Texas the people seem to have but little disposition
to exert themselves. Indeed they say themselves that they are
the laziest people in the world, but they seem not able to
account for it; it can be accounted for on my material
primareily. Man will not toil hard for the mere lux‑
uries Regularized:luxuries & ornaments of life. Necessity will drive them to labor
for competence, but their their industry ends, unless they
are stimulated to further efforts by some principle as strong
as necessity. This is to be found in ambition, pride, the love
of distinction & when these are to be obtained by extra labor
it will be readily given. But place a man in a
community where his importance & power is neither diminished

120

by extreme poverty or increased by surplus wealth, he will
not toil for that superfluity merely to secure some of
the conveniences & luxuries of life which are so easily done
without. This is the reason that people in Texas have
not been an industrious people, &C. As to wealth they have
been but little distinction among them, all being what we
would call poor; the production of the county being great, very
little labor seemed a corruption, and all being on equality the
never sighed for moneRegularized:money, for moneRegularized:money brought them neither supe‑
riority Regularized:superiority of standing or power.

The natives of Mexico, when invaded by
Cortez was in a much higher state of moral and
intellectual cultivation than is usually supposed. They
were ignorant of the arts ^{& customs} of other countries, but they possessed
much useful & true Knowledge among themselves, appa‑
rantly Regularized:apparently derived from no civilized nation, but entirely the
growth of their own country. This is manifest from the
stupendous works of arts and monuments of in‑
genuity Regularized:ingenuity which were destroyed by the above brutal &
ferocious invader who treated this people as an ignorant
race, himself however not knowing a letter in the alphabet.
Besides this their system of religion was pure and uncor‑
rupted Regularized:uncorrupted by superstition or human depravity; they taught
that there was but one God, whose Emblem was the Sun,
and the golden precept was the foundation of their creed that all
men were brethren & that we should do to one another as we would be done by.

121

See page 115

From Masters' I proceeded to M^r Aldridges,
about 20 miles, passing thro'Regularized:through land varingRegularized:varying much in its quality
but the poor predominated; after leaving Aldridges I a few
miles I passed thro'Regularized:through the Mustang Prairie, a large beautiful
Prairie standing alone surrounded by woodland, the soil good; 12
miles further brought me to the Trinity, making the distance
from Masters to this river 37 miles, making by my computation
nea 96 miles, but I should say it was fully 100 the distance generally
stated. From Masters' to the river the country is about equally
divided between prairie & woodland; and such I presumed it is
all the way down to the bay on the left & far into the country
up the river. The lands on the Trinity are good; first rate,
but much of the bottom lands subject to overflow. It is the
best navigable stream in the territory; being capable of Keel‑
boat Regularized:Keelboat navigation with certainty for 6 to 9 months in the year, and
by a great many it is said that it is as good the red river for
Steam boats. non. A I left Dusts Tuesday 4th Augt reached McCl‑
ane Regularized:McClane 's that night; left there Thursday morning, reach Masters about 12 OclkRegularized:o'clock the
same day; left Masters Monday 10 reached Aldridge's same day; left
there next morning reached Robbins at the Trinity 11. departed next mor‑
ning Regularized:morning which was Wednesday 12 Augt.

Whilst at M^r Masters' I was treated with extreme
kindness both by himself, his lady & family. To one of the
daughters I made a present of a fine cable chain for which
I gave $40. The present was so rich & beyond her notions of
liberality that I really believe she thotRegularized:thought that I was practising
a fraud & that the chain was only brass. I gave it her incon‑
Regularized:inconsequence

122

sequence
Regularized:inconsequence of her attention to me in sickness, being the first
young lady that had paid any regard whatever to my
suffering. I felt afterwards that the gift was not an
appropriate one; a few yds of Callico & such like articles of
dress to the tenth part of the value would perhaps have
pleased her better; and besides I was forcibly reminded of
the unsuitableness, by seeing her afterwards sitting on
the same bench with one of her fathers strapping negro fellows,
in high converse with him. My feelings of this would
have been most horribly shocked if I had not previously noticed
the equality that existed in the family between the blacks &
the whites, the former having an equal if not superior author‑
ity Regularized:authority. Here too I was most kindly treated by Major Lewis, a
merchant just opening a store. He paid much attention to me,
ministered to my wants, promoted my comforts; and made
me a fine present of a pair of green spectacles silver framed.
He left for Nacogdoches on Sunday & I for the Trinity on
Monday. At Aldridges nothing worthy of remark; At
Robbins on the Trinity, I met a company of 25 or 6 men
returning from an expedition after the Indians. Robbins
himself was one of the number. They had proceeded far enough
to ascertain that it was prudent to go no further & returned
without reaping any laurels, which perhaps they regretted
less than the loss of the expected plunder. See 124

Joseph Dusts' see 113. Whilst at Dusts' there stopped
two or three more who were from Alabama after the McGhee's
fugitives from justice who had murdered two young lads

123

and fled to this county; a large reward had stimulated these
men to make an effort to bring them to justice ; but they seemed
to me not qualified for the undertaking, wanting especially in
prudence & secrecy. There tarried also a Dr whose name I
know not & desire never to know, who said he was no practising phy‑
sician Regularized:physician but was a tolerable master of ^{efficient in} the old system and
a perfect master in the new. What he meant by the old
new systems I was curious to know, when he informed
that the one was the mineral & phlebotomizing system; that is the puking
purging & bleeding method; and the latter was the more recent
& infalible plan of steaming roasting boiling & baking. He was
in fact either a calomel doctor or a steam physician and
kindly proffered me his assistance in either system I might
prefer to be treated. I politely declined his services by telling
him that I had just calomized myself pretty profoundly;
& as for his steam, I would rather prefer the furnace a Shadrich
Meshac & Abednigo. He was of all men I ever met with
the damned fool and the most everlasting talker. He told
a story about his curing one of his own children of some cuta‑
neous Regularized:cutaneous sores by steam, in the absence of his wife who he said
would never let him try it when at home. The process through
which he carried the child, & its excruciating pangs & heart rending
screams under the operation, as he discribed, made me look
upon him in the light not only of a fool, but as a heartless
demon, who should, for this very act, be condemned to the
Penitentiary the ballanceRegularized:balance of his life.