Title: A handbook for travellers in Lower and Upper Egypt [Electronic Edition]

Author: John Murray (Firm)
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Title: A Handbook for Travellers in Lower and Upper Egypt

Author: John Murray (Firm)
Seventh Edition
File size or extent: Book [618] p. illus., plates, maps (partly fold.) plans (partly fold.) 18 cm.
Place of publication: London
Publisher: John Murray
Publication date: 1888
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A handbook for travellers in Lower and Upper Egypt [Electronic Edition]


Contents






MURRAY'S FOREIGN HANDBOOKS.





A
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IN LOWER AND UPPER
EGYPT;

INCLUDING DESCRIPTIONS OF
THE COURSE OF THE NILE THROUGH EGYPT AND NUBIA
ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO,
THE PYRAMIDS, THEBES, THE SUEZ CANAL,
THE PENINSULA OF MOUNT SINAI,
THE OASES, THE FAYOOM, &c.

IN TWO PARTS.—PART I.

SEVENTH EDITION.

THIRTY-THREE MAPS, PLANS, ETC.

LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS: GALIGNANI; BOYVEAU. MALTA: CRITIEN; WATSON. CAIRO AND ALEXANDRIA: V. PENASSON. 1888. The right of Translation is reserved.


THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED
OF THE FOLLOWING BOOKSELLERS.

Belgium, Holland, and Germany.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLR MAYER.
AMBTHRDAM MULLER.—ROBBERS.
ANTWERP MERTENS.
BADEN-BADEN MARX.
BERLIN ASHER.—MITSCHER AND RöSTELL.
BRUSSELS KIESSLING.
CARLSRUHE A. BIELEFELD.
COLOGNE DU MONT-SCHAUBERG.
DRESDEN BURDACH.—PIERSON.
FRANKFURT JÜGEL.
GRATZ LEUSCHNER AND LUBENSKY.
THE HAGUE NIJHOFF.
HAMBURG MAUKE SÖHNE.
HEIDELBERG MOHR.
LEIPZIG BROCKMAUS.—TWIETMEYER
MANNHEIM BENDER.—LOFFLER.
METZ ALCAN.
MUNICH ACKERMANN.—KAISER.
NÜRNBERG SCHRAG.—ZEISER.
PESTH HARTLEBEN.—RATAH.
PRAGUE CALVE.
ROTTERDAM KRAMERS.
STRASSBURG TRÜBNER.
STUTTGART METZLER.—NEFF.
TRIESTE SCHIMPFF.
FIENNA CEROLD.—BRAUMÜLLER.
WIESBADEN KREIDEL.

Switzerland.

BALE GEORG.—AMBERGER.
BERNE SCHMIDT, FRANCKE AND CO.—JENT AND REINERT.
COIRE GRUBENMANN.
CONSTANGE MECK.
GENEVA SANDOZ.—H. GEORG.
LAUSANNE ROUSSY.
LUCERNE GEBHARDT.
NEUCHATEL GERSTER.
SCHAFFHAUSEN HURTER.
SOLEURE JENT.
ST. GALLEN HUBER.
ZURICH ALBERT MULLER.—CÄSAR SCHMIDT.—MEYER AND ZELLER.

Italy.

BOLOGNA ZANICUELLI.
FLORENOE LORSCHER.
GENOA GRONDONA.—ANTOINE BEUF.
LEGHORN MAZZAJOLI.
LUCCA BARON.
MANTUA NEGRETTI.
MILAN SACCHI.—OEPLI.
MODENA VINCENZI AND ROSSI.
NAPLES HOEPLI.—FURCHHEIM.
PALERMO PEDONE.
PARMA ZANGHIERI.
PISA NISTRI.—JOS. VANNUCCHI.
PERUGIA VINCENZ.—BARTELLI.
ROME SPITHÖVER.—PIALE.—MONALDINI.—LOESCHER.
SIENA ONORATO PORRI.
TURIN MAGGI.—L. BEUF.—BOCCA FRÈRES.—LOESCHER.
VENICE ONGANIA.—MEINERS.
VERONA MÜNSTER.—MEINERS.

France

AMIENS CARON.
ANGERS BARASSÉ.
AVIGNON CLÉMENT ST. JUST.
AVRANCHES ANFRAY.
BORDEAUX CHAUMAS.—MÜLLER.—SAUVAT.—FERET.
BOULOGNE MERRIDEW.
CAEN BOISARD.—LEGOST.—CLERISSÉ.
CALAIS RIGAUX CAUX.
CANNES ROBAUDY.
CHERBOURG LECOUFFLET.
DIEPPE MARAIS.
DINANT COSTE.
DOUAI JACQUART.—LEMÂLE.
GRENOBLE VELLOT ET COMP.
HAVRE BOURDIGNON.—FOUCHER.
LILLE BÉGHIN.
LYONS AYNÉ.—SCHEURING.—MÉRA.
MARSEILLES CAMOIN FRÈRES.—MEUNIER.
NANTES PETIPAS.—POIRIER LEGROS.
NICE BARBERY.—GALIGNANI.
ORLEANS GATINEAU.—PESTY.
PARIS GALIGNANI.—BOYVEAU.
PAU LAFON.
RHEIMS BRISSART BINET.—GEOFFROY
ROUEN LEBRUMENT.—HAULARD.
ST. ÉTIENNE DELARUE.
ST. MALO HUE.
ST. QUENTIN DOLOY.
TOULON MONGE ET VILLAMUS.
TOULOUSE GIMET ET COTELLE.
TOURS GEORGET.
TROYES LALOY.—DUFEY ROBERT.

Spain and Portugal.

GIBRALTAR STATIONERY DEPÔT.
LISBON LEWTAS.
MADRID DURAN.—FUENTES Y CAPDEVILLE.
MALAGA GARCIA TABOADELA.

Russia, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway.

ST. PETERSBURG WATKINS.—WOLFF.
MOSCOW GAUTIEP.—DEUBNER.—LANG.
ODESSA CAMOIN.
CHRISTIANIA BENNETT.
STOCKHOLM SAMSON & WALLIN:—FRITZ.

Malta.

CRITIEN.—WATSON.—CALLEJA.

Ionian Islands.

CORFU J. W. TAYLOR.

Constantinople.

WICK AND WEISS.

Greece.

ATHENS—KARL WILBERG.

Alexandria and Cairo.

V. Penasson.

India.

CALCUTTA—THACKER, SPINK, & CO. BOMBAY—THACKER & CO., LIMITED.

PREFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION.

THIS Edition contains such corrections of the last edition of
Murray's Handbook of Egypt as were necessary to bring it up
to date. The Egyptian rebellion, and the consequent occupation
of Egypt by the English troops, have led to very
considerable changes; while, at the same time, the recent
discoveries of Naville, Petrie, Maspero, and others, have
increased the knowledge of Egyptian antiquities. These
have been referred to, so far as is possible in the narrow
compass of a handbook, and everything has been done to
make the work as complete and useful for travellers as
possible. Some new plans of temples have been supplied by
Mr. Phené Spiers.
Year by year travelling in Egypt becomes more easy, and
elaborate preparations are less necessary. Steamers on the
Nile have almost superseded the luxurious but slow dahabieh,
and at the same time reduced the cost of the river trip,
bringing it within the limits of moderate means. It is to
be hoped that, as facilities are increased, the number of those
who enjoy this most enjoyable of voyages may increase in
number also.
January 1888.




v

PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION.

IN the present Edition of the Handbook of Egypt the endeavour
has been not merely to keep pace with the rapid
changes which have taken place in Egypt during the last
few years, but to re-arrange and improve the whole plan of
the Handbook so as to render it as much of an improvement
on the editions of 1873 and 1875 as those were on
previous editions.
The original Handbook was a reprint of the late Sir
Gardner Wilkinson's learned work, ߢModern Egypt and
Thebes,’ corrected and revised by the erudite author himself,
so as to meet, as far as possible, the requirements of a
guide-book. A few additions and corrections were subsequently
made from time to time, but substantially the
Handbook remained the same as when it was first published
until 1873, when a thorough revision, and even re-casting of
the work became necessary. Since that date Egypt has
certainly not stood still: and its modern progress has been
more than equalled by the rapid advance made towards a
better knowledge of its ancient history.
To enumerate all the additions and alterations that have
been made in this edition would be to refer to every page in
the book, but attention may specially be drawn to Section I.,
General Information, nearly the whole of which is entirely
new; to the Description of Cairo and its Environs, a great
part of which has been rewritten; and to the additional
Maps and Plans. The work has also been divided into two
Parts, thus rendering it more convenient for carrying about.
The Editor's principal coadjutors have been the Rev. W.
J. Loftie and Mr. Roland L. N. Michell. The former has

supplied some of the papers in Sect. I. as, e.g., the General
Sketch of Egyptian History, § 16 (b), of the Method of
Writing Hieroglyphs, § 17 (a), the Old Egyptian Religion,
§ 18 (a), and Old Egyptian Archæology and Art, § 19 (a).
Many additions and corrections throughout the book are also
due to him. Mr. Michell's share has been chiefly confined
to a revision of the Description of Cairo, for which his long
residence in that city peculiarly qualified him; and he has
very much added to the usefulness and interest of that part
of the work by the complete account now given for the
first time of the Mosques, Tombs, Dervish Monasteries, and
principal Religious Festivals.
The Editor has again to repeat his acknowledgments to
those gentlemen whose names have been already mentioned
in the last two editions, especially to M. Mariette, Dr. Grant,
and Mr. Greville Chester. His thanks are also due for much
useful information to the Rev. Herbert Wilson, the Rev. F.
W. Holland, Mr. F. A. Floyer, Mr. H. C. Kay, Mr. W. B.
Greenfield, and many others.
In the revision of the Arabic Vocabulary he has received
valuable assistance from Mr. Alexander Baird and Ali
Hassan Bey. The system adopted in this Vocabulary, and
throughout the book, of spelling the Arabic words as nearly
as possible as they sound to an English ear, without any
attempt at orthographical transliteration, will no doubt
provoke the wrath and scorn of the learned purist, but it
seemed the best course to pursue, at any rate until some
authoritative method of writing Eastern names is generally
agreed upon.
Travellers are requested kindly to send to Mr. Murray,
50A, Albemarle Street, W., any information obtained on
the spot, which may serve either to correct errors, or
furnish fresh material for insertion.
January 1880.

vii

CONTENTS OF PART I.

PAGE
PREFACE iii, v
INTRODUCTION xiii
a. Season for Visiting Egypt, page xiii.—b. Expenses of the Visit,
xiv.—c. Plan of Route and Disposition of Time, xiv.—d. Journey
from England to Egypt
, xiv.—e. Things that should be bought
in England, including a List of Books
, xv.
SECTION I.
GENERAL INFORMATION.
PAGE
1. Passports—Custom House 2
2. Consulates—Courts of Justice 2
3. Money 2
4. Weights and measures 4
5. Railways—Modes of Travelling 5
6. Posts—Telegraphs 6
7. Hotels—Apartments—Servants 6
8. Climate 7
   (a) General Remarks on the
Sanitary State of the
Country
7
   (b) Temperature 8
   (c) The Seasons 9
   (d) Diseases for which the Climate
is beneficial
10
   (e) Clothing and Mode of Life 12
   (f) Medicines and Treatment
of slight Ailments
12
9. Geography 13
   (a) Ancient Egypt 13
   (b) Modern Egypt 15
   (c) The Nile 17
10. Geology 19
11. Products 21
   (a) Plants—Vegetation 21
   (b) Agriculture 22
12. Natural History—Shooting 24
13. Inhabitants 29
14. Government—Revenue 34
15. Industry—Commerce 36
16. History 37
   (a) Sources of Ancient History 37
   (b) General Sketch 38
   (c) Chronological Table to B.C.
30
46
   (d) Ditto from B.C. 30 to A.D.
640
55
   (e) Ditto from A.D. 640 to the
present day
60
17. Hieroglyphs 67
   (a) Method of Writing 67
   (b) Hieroglyphic Names of some
of the principal Kings
70
18. Old Egyptian Religion 75
   (a) General Sketch 75
   (b) Illustrated List of the Principal
Egyptian Divinities
78
19. Archæology and Art 85
   (a) Old Egyptian 85
   (b) Arabian 90
20. Arabic Language and Vocabulary 93

viii

SECTION II.
ALEXANDRIA AND THE WEST OF THE DELTA.
PAGE
Alexandria:—
  Preliminary Information 113
  Description 118
Route 1. Alexandria to Rosetta
(by Rail)
142
Route 2. Rosetta to Cairo 144
Route 3. Alexandria to Port Said
and Suez (by Water)
144
Route 4. Alexandria to Suez (by
Rail)
144
Route 5. Alexandria to Cairo
(by the Mahmoodeyeh
Canal and the Nile).
145
Route 6. Alexandria to Cairo (by
Rail)
150
SECTION III.
CAIRO AND ITS ENIVIRONS.
Cairo:—
  General Information 156
  Description 161
Environs of Cairo:—
  Excursion I. Shoobra 216
  Excursion II. Heliopolis 217
  Excursion III. The “Petrified
Forest”
221
  Excursion IV. The Barrage 222
  Excursion V. Old Cairo and the
Nilometer
223
  Excursion VI. Boolak and Gezeereh 232
  Excursion VII. The Pyramids 234
  Excursion VIII. Sakkárah 263
  Excursion IX. Helwán, Toora and
Masarah
275
SECTION IV.
THE ISTHMUS OF SUEZ AND THE EAST OF THE DELTA.
Route 7. Cairo to the ,
Ismailia, Lake Timsah,
the Bitter Lakes, Suez,
and Port Said
279
Route 8. Cairo to Damietta (by
Water),' Bebayt el-Hágar,
Mansoorh
309
Route 9. Cairo to Damietta (by
Rail)
315
Route 10. Cairo to Sân, the ancient
Tauis, and Lake
Menzaleh (by Rail and
Water, viâ Zagazig)
316

ix

CONTENTS OF PART II.

SECTION V.
THE DESERT EAST OF THE NILE, AND THE PENINSULA OF SINAI.
PAGE
Route 11. Cairo to the Convents
of St. Antony and
St. Paul
323
Route 12. The Valley of the Nile
(Keneh, Kobt, &c.)
to the Red Sea (Kosseir, &c.)
325
Route 13. Cairo to Gaza (Syria)
by the “Short Desert”
328
Route 14. Cairo to Mount Sinai 330
SECTION VI.
THE DESERT WEST OF THE NILE, AND THE FAYOOM.
Route 15. Cairo to the Natron
Lakes and Monasteries
360
Route 16. Alexandria or Cairo to
the Oasis of Seewah
or Ammon
366
Route 17. Cairo to the Little
Onsis, the Oasis of
Dakhleh, and the
Great Oasis, by the
Fayoom
368
Route.18 Cairo to the Fayoom 376
SECTION VII.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FROM CAIRO TO THEBES.
Preliminary Information 385
Route 19. Cairo to Thebes 392
SECTION VIII.
THEBES.
Thebes:—
  Preliminary Information 451
Description of Thebes—its Ruins
and Remains
454

x

SECTION IX.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FROM THEBES TO THE FIRST CATARACT
(ASSOOÁN AND PHILE).
PAGE
Route 20. Luxor (Thebes) to Assooán, the First Cataract, and Philæ 509
SECTION X.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE IN NUBIA FORM THE FIRST TO THE SECOND
CATARACT, AND TO KHARTOOM
Nubia:—
  General Observations 534
Route 21. Philæ (1st Cataract) to Wády Halfah (2nd Cataract) 537
GENERAL INDEX 551

xi

LIST OF MAPS, PLANS, ETC., IN PART I.

PAGE
Common Hieroglyphic Forms 69
Hieroglyphic Names of some of the principal Kings 71
Illustrated List of the principal Egyptian Divinities 79
Plans of Egyptian Temples 85
Plan of an Egyptian Tomb 87
Plan of Alexandria and Map of the Environs to face 113
Plan of Ancient Alexandria 121
Plan of Cairo to face 155
Plan of the Mosque of Sultan Hassan 176
Plan of the Tomb-Mosque of Sultan Berkook 190
Plan of the Boolak Museum 198
Map of the Environs of Cairo to face 216
Plan of the Mosque of Amer, old Cairo 225
Panorama of Pyramids from Aboo Roásh on the N. to Maydoom
on the S.
to face 239
Topographical Plan of the Pyramids of Geezeh 241
Section of the Great Pyramid 246
Map of Sakkárah, and Plan of the Apis Mausolcum between 268-269
Map of the Isthmus of Suez and Plan of Canal to face 279

xii

LIST OF MAPS, PLANS, ETC., IN PART II.

PAGE
Plan of Mount Sinai and of the surrounding Valleys and Hills 349
Plan of the Temple of Sethi I., Abydus 434
Plan of the Temple of Rameses II., Abydus 436
Plan of the Temple of Denderah 441
Map of Thebes—western bank to face 455
Plan of the Rameseum, or Memnonium, Thebes 458
Plan of the Temple of Medeenet Haboo, Thebes 468
Plan of the Tomb of Sethi I., Thebes 479
Plan of the Tombs of the Kings (Bab-El-Molook) 481
Map of Thebes and Luxor—eastern bank to face 497
Plan of the Great Temple of Karnak 500
Plan of the Temple of Edfoo 515
Plan of the Island of Philæ 530
Philæ, approaching it from the Cataracts 533
Plan and Section of the Great Temple of Aboo Simbel 547
Map of Egypt in pocket at the end.

xiii

INTRODUCTION.

a. Season for Visiting Egypt.— b. Expenses of the Visit. — c. Plan of
Route and Disposition of Time.
— d. Journey from England to
Egypt.
— e. Things that should be bought in England, including a
List of Books.

a. SEASON FOR VISITING EGYPT.

FROM October to April is the best season for a residence in Egypt.
For those who intend to do the whole Nile voyage, and who can choose
their own time, the months especially to be recommended, both for
climate and convenience of travelling, are November, December, January,
February and March. During those months winds from the North are
more or less prevalent, which cool the air pleasantly and add to the comfort
of travelling. A good deal will, of course, depend on the destination of
the traveller after leaving Egypt. If he intends going to Syria, he could
arrange so as not to get there before April, it being too cold to travel
comfortably in Syria before that date. For those who propose to do the
so-called Eastern tour completely, the following average time-table may
be given:—
Arrive in Egypt about the middle of November, and remain there till
the end of February, going to the second Cataract and back. Leave
Egypt at the beginning of March, and go by way of Sinai and Petra to
Jerusalem, arriving there about the second week in April. Five or six weeks
in Palestine will then bring the traveller to Beyrout before the end of May.
Or he may vary the latter part of this programme by only going to Mount
Sinai, and instead of continuing the Long Desert journey—undertaken by
comparatively few—return thence to Port Said and take steamer to Syria.
And should he care to spend no more than three months in Egypt he had
better not arrive there till December.
Of course these remarks are not intended to apply to those who merely
propose to do the country in the shortest possible time that steam and
their own energy can enable them to accomplish it in. They may go from
London to the Second Cataract and back in six weeks, and any time
during the months named above will be as good as another. But even to
them it may be said, choose, if you can, some period between the middle
of December and the middle of February. It is perhaps, everything considered,
the most delightful season in Egypt. The temperature is delicious,
often, indeed, cool, the Nile neither too high so as to cover land, nor too
low so as to look like a huge canal flowing between high banks, over which
it is impossible to see from the deck of either boat or steamer, and the
country is perfectly lovely in colouring—it is, in fact, spring time. Further

information useful for invalids, as to the season for visiting Egypt, will be
found under Section I., General Information, § 8.

b. EXPENSES OF THE VISIT.

It is difficult to give any trustworthy estimate of the expenses of a
visit to Egypt, as they must necessarily vary considerably according to
each traveller's wants and requirements, and the length of his purse.
The cost of the journey to Egypt will range from 20l. to 30l. Hotel
living in Egypt may be set down at from 15s. to 25s. a day. Travelling
by steamer or boat on the Nile at from 25s. to 2l. a day; travelling on
land by camels, donkeys, &c., and with tents, at about the same rate.
The actual cost of the Nile trip by steamer, including all expenses of
food, sight-seeing, &c., is as follows:—
Cairo to the First Cataract and back £50.
Cairo to the Second Cataract and back £70.
But many circumstances, such as the number of persons who join together
in sharing a dragoman and boat between them, the luxuries required by
the traveller, the parts of the country he may wish to visit, &c., will add
to or lessen the expense. Roughly speaking, it may be said that the
necessary expenses of a tour in Egypt, will average from 25s. to 35s. a day.

c. PLAN OF ROUTE AND DISPOSITION OF TIME.

The following table may help to give the traveller some general idea on
this subject:—
Journey from England to Egypt (see below) 7-14 days.
Alexandria or Suez. 1 day.
From Alexandria or Suez to Cairo 1 day.
Cairo and Environs 6—10 days.
Excursion to the Fayoom 5—8 days.
Voyage up the Nile:—
(a) by steamer to First Cataract and back 21 days.
by steamer to Second Cataract and back 7 days additional.
(b) by dahabeeyeh to First Cataract and back 60—70 days.
by dahabeeyeh to Second Cataract and back 20—30 days additional.
Excursion to the 4—5 days.
Excursion to Mount Sinai 14—21 days.
The time occupied, therefore, in making the above tour will vary from
2 1/2 to 5 months.

d. JOURNEY FROM ENGLAND TO EGYPT.

There are various routes by which the traveller may reach Egypt from
England. The following are the principal:—

(a). Direct Sea Routes.

(1). London to Suez by the steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental
Company, every Thursday, touching at Gibraltar, Malta, and Port Said,
and going through the . Time occupied, about 14 days. Fares
(including food but not wine), 1st class, 22l., 2nd class and passenger's
servants, 14l.
(2). Liverpool to Alexandria, by the steamers of Messrs. Moss & Co., or
Messrs. Burns, McIver, & Co., touching at Gibraltar and Malta. Time
occupied, about 14 days. Fare (including food), 15l.

(b). Continental Routes.

(3). To Venice or Brindisi, and thence by the steamers of the Peninsular
and Oriental Company to Alexandria. The steamers leave Venice every
Friday, touch at Ancona and leave Brindisi at 4 a.m. on Monday morning.
Time occupied: London to Venice, 2 1/2—4 days; London to Brindisi, 2 1/2—4
days; Venice to Alexandria, 6 days; Brindisi to Alexandria, 3 days. Fares: to
Venice, 1st class, about 9l., 2nd class, about 7l.; to Brindisi, 1st class,
about 12l., 2nd class, about 9l.; from Venice or Brindisi to Alexandria the
fare (including food but not wine) is the same, 1st class, 12l., 2nd class, 9l. It is possible that, after a time, the steamers will go to Port Said instead
of Alexandria.
(4). To Marseilles, and thence by the steamers of the Messageries
Maritimes to Alexandria every Thursday, touching at Naples. Time
occupied: London to Marseilles, 1—1 1/2 day; Marseilles to Alexandria,
6 days. Fares: to Marseilles, 1st class, about 7l., 2nd class, about 5l 10s.;
Marseilles to Alexandria (food and wine included), 1st class, 15l., 2nd
class, 9l.
(5). To Trieste, and thence by the steamers of the Austrian Lloyd
Company to Alexandria every Friday, touching at Corfu. Time occupied:
London to Trieste, 2 1/2—4 days; Trieste to Alexandria, 5 1/2 days. Fares: to
Trieste, 1st class, about 11l., 2nd class, about 8l.; Trieste to Alexandria
(food and wine included), 1st class, 11l., 2nd class, 7l. 12s.
(6). To Naples, and thence by the steamers of the Messageries Maritimes
to Alexandria every Saturday. Time occupied: London to Naples,
3—5 days; Naples to Alexandria, 4 days. Fares: to Naples, 1st class,
about 12l., 2nd class, about 10l.; Naples to Alexandria (food and wine
included), 1st class, 11l., 2nd class, 7l.
Route (1) is the best for large families. Route (3) is the shortest sea
passage. The steamers by Routes (4), (5), and (6) are very good and the
food excellent. At Brindisi, Marseilles, and Trieste passengers can walk
on board the steamers from the quays; at Venice and Naples they are
conveyed to them in small boats.

e. THINGS THAT SHOULD BE BOUGHT IN ENGLAND, INCLUDING
A LIST OF
BOOKS.

It is not absolutely necessary for the traveller to provide himself, before
leaving England, with anything more than he would take for an ordinary
journey. There are shops at Alexandria and Cairo which will supply all
his wants more or less effectively; but at the same time there are certain
things which, though they could be procured in Egypt, can certainly be
bought better and cheeaper in Europe. These are:—
  • Guns.
  • Gunpowder.
  • Carridges, and all shooting appliances.
  • Thermometer, aneroid barometer, and all
    instruments.
  • Field-glasses, or telescope.
  • Measuring-tape.
  • Writing,drawing, and painting materials.
  • Magnesium wire and a lamp for burning
    it in. Very necessary for properly seeing
    tombs and excavated temples, without
    doing the injury to the sculptures
    and paintings that torches cause.
  • Saddle and bridle, for Syria and Greece. A
    lady will not only require a side-saddle
    for the Syrian journey, but also for the
    many excursions that are to be made on
    donkey-back up the Nile. Those who
    travel by Messrs. Cook's steamers will
    find side-saddles provided.
  • Clothes. See Sect. I., 8, e.
  • Medicine. A box of 3 gr. Quinine Pills is
    all that is required.
Books.—The following list comprises some
of the best known works on Egypt:—

Historical Works and Works of
Reference.

  • Birch, Dr. S. Egypt from the monuments.
  • * Brugsch, H. History of Egypt under the
    Pharaohs. Translated from the German
    by P. Smith. 2 vols. 1879.
  • Bunsen. Egypt's Place in Universal
    History.
  • Butler. Ancient Coptic Churches of
    Egypt.
  • Diodorus. Book I.
  • Herodotus (Rawlinson's). Book I.
  • * Lane. The Modern Egyptians, 2 vols.
    1871.
  • * Mariette, A. Monuments of Upper
    Egypt. 1877.
  • * Mariette, A. Aperu générale de
    l'Histoire d'Egypte.
  • Maspero. Histoire Ancienne des Peuples
    de l'Orient. 1875.
  • Pierret. Dictionnaire de l'Arohéologie
    Egyptienne.
  • Pierret. Essai sur la Mythologie Egyptienne.
  • Records of the Past. (Translations of
    Hieroglyphic Inscriptions.)
  • * Sharpe. History of Egypt (for the
    Ptolemæan and Roman Period.)
  • Soldi, E. La Sculpture Egyptienne, et
    L'Art Egyptien.
  • Strabo. Book 17.
  • * Wilkinson, Sir J. G. The Ancient Egyptians,
    Edited by Dr. Birch, 3 vols. 1878.
  • * Wilkinson, Sir. J. G. Plants of the
    Egyptian Desert. Edited by Mr. Wm.
    Curruthers.

Descriptive Works and Works of Fiction.

  • About, Edmund. Le Fellah.
  • Cooke, E. W., R.A. Leaves from my
    Sketch Book. Series ii., 1877.
  • Curtis. Nile Notes of a Howadji.
  • Curzon. Monasteries of the Levant.
  • De Leon. The Khedive's Egypt. 1877.
  • Didier. Cinq Cents Lienes sur le Nil.
  • Eber. Warda.
  • Eber. An Egyptian Princess.
  • Eden, F. The Nile without a Dragoman.
    1871.
  • Edwards, Miss A. B. A Thousand Miles
    up the Nile. 1877.
  • * Edwards, Miss A. B. Egyptian Archæology
    by Maspero, translated by Miss
    Edwards.
  • Fleming. A Nile novel.
  • Gordon, Lady Duff. Letters from Egypt,
    1866, 1875.
  • Hopley. Under Egyptian Palms.
  • Hoskins. Winter in Upper and Lower
    Egypt.
  • Irby and Mangles. Travels in Egypt.
  • Kinglake. Eothen.
  • Kingsley. Hypatia.
  • * Lane. Arabian Nights.
  • Lindsay, Lord. Letters from Egypt and
    the Holy Land.
  • Loftie, Rev. W. J. A Ride in Egypt.
    1879.
  • Macdonald, A. Too Late for Gordon
    and Khartoom.
  • Macgregor, J. Rob Roy on the Nile and
    the Jordan. 1871.
  • Martineau, Miss. Eastern Life.
  • Maxime du Camp. Le Nil.
  • * Petrie, F. The Pyramids and Templ
    of Gheezeh.
  • Paton. Egyptian Revolution.
  • * Poole, S. L. Art of the Saraoens in
    Egypt.
  • Prime. Boat Life in Egypt and Nubia.
  • Rhoné. L'Egypte à Petites Journées.
    1877.
  • Royle. Egyptian Campaigns.
  • * Shelley. Birds of Egypt. 1873.
  • Smith, Rev. A. C. Attractions of the
    Nile.
  • Smyth, Piazzi. Our inheritance in the
    Great Pyramid.
  • Spiers, R. Phené. Sketches in Egypt
    1887.
  • * Stanley, Dean. Sinai and Palestine.
  • Stuart, Villiers. Nile Gleanings, 1879.
  • Warburton. The Crescent and the
    Cross.
  • Zincke, Rev. B. Egypt of the Pharaoh
    and the Khedive.

HANDBOOK
FOR
TRAVELLERS IN EGYPT.

ADDENDA.

CAIRO , p. 157.
The Hotel d'Angleterre in the Esbekeeyeh Gardens is highly recommended;
it is well managed, and the cooking is excellent.
PORT SAID , p. 307.
The Hotel des Pays Bas has ceased to exist.
LUXOR , p. 451.
If Messrs. Cook and Son's hotel is full, the traveller is recommended to go
to the Karnac Hotel, kept by G. Naggiar, situated in a garden on the brink
of the Nile, away from the dust. Fine views towards the Western Temples.
Civil people. Good cuisine. Moderate charges.

1

HANDBOOK
FOR
TRAVELLERS IN EGYPT.
SECTION I.
GENERAL INFORMATION.

PAGE
1. PASSPORTS—CUSTOM-HOUSE 2
2. CONSULATES — COURTS OF
JUSTICE
2
3. MONEY 2
4. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 4
5. RAILWAYS — MODES OF TRAVELLING 5
6. POSTS — TELEGRAPHS 6
7. HOTELS — APARTMENTS —
SERVANTS
6
8. CLIMATE 7
(a) General Remarks on the
Sanitary State of
the Country
7
(b) Temperature 8
(c) The Seasons 9
(d) Diseases for which the
Climate is beneficial
10
(e) Clothing and Mode of
Life
12
(f) Medicines, and Treatment
of slight Ailments
12
9. GEOGRAPHY 13
(a) Ancient Egypt 13
(b) Modern Egypt 15
(c) The Nile 17
10. GEOLOGY 19
11. I'RODUCTS 21
(a) Plants — Vegetation 21
(b) Agriculture 22
[Egypt.—PT.I.]
12. NATURAL HISTORY — SHOOTING 24
13. INHABITANTS 29
14. GOVERNMENT —- REVENUE 34
15. INDUSTRY — COMMERCE 36
16. HISTORY 37
(a) Sources of Ancient History 37
(b) General Sketch 38
(c) Chronological Table to
B.C.30
46
(d) Ditto from B.C. 30 to
A.D. 640
55
(e) Ditto from A.D. 640 to
the present day
60
17. HIEROGLYPHS 67
(a) Method of Writing 67
(b) Hieroglyphic Names of
some of the principal
Kings
70
18. OLD EGYPTIAN RELIGION 75
(a) General Sketch 75
(b) Illustrated List of the
principal Egyptian
Divinities
78
19. ARCHÆOLOGY — ART 85
(a) Old Egyptian 85
(b) Arabian 90
20. ARABIC LANGUAGE AND VOCABULARY 93

1. PASSPORTS.—CUSTOM-HOUSE.

Passports, though not required, are sometimes, asked for on landing at
the Egyptian ports.
Custom-house.—All luggage is opened at the custom-house; but a baksheesh of a few shillings will generally save time and trouble. At Alexandria,
however, this mode of escape is no longer possible, as the custom-house there
is now under English control. There is a heavy duty on cigars, and great
difficulty is made about admitting guns and cartridges. An ad valorem duty
of 1 per cent. is levied on all goods leaving the country. Antiquities are
not allowed to be exported.

2. CONSULATES.—COURTS OF JUSTICE.

Each of the principal European powers is represented in Egypt by an agent
and consul-general, who is accredited direct to the Khedive, and resides
generally in Cairo. There are besides, Consuls, Vice-Consuls, and Consular
Agents, at the different ports and chief towns.
Until 1876, the Egyptian authorities had no civil or criminal jurisdiction
over foreigners, who were only amenable to their consuls. Consequently any
foreigner accused of a civil or criminal offence, had to be indicted in the
Consular Court of the nation of which he was a citizen. As there are
seventeen of these courts, it is easy to imagine the inconvenience caused by
such a system, and the miscarriage of justice which frequently resulted from
it. At the instance of the Egyptian Government, and chiefly through the
exertions of Nubar Pasha, an international commission was appointed in
1869, which recommended the abolition of this state of things, and the
appointment of mixed tribunals of natives and foreigners, for the trial of all
cases between foreigners of different nationalities, and natives and foreigners.
The law is administered in these tribunals, which consist of courts of first
and second instance, according to the Code Napoléon, adopted in Egypt with
some modifications. The languages employed are English, French, and
Italian. The Consular Courts still continue to have jurisdiction in criminal
and civil causes between foreigners of the same nationality. In cases of any
difficulty, the traveller had better apply immediately to his consular representative.

3. MONEY.

The probable expenses of a visit to Egypt have been already spoken of
in the Introduction.
The money tables for Egypt, if put into the form used in school arithmetics,
would be as follows:—
40 paras make 1 piastre,
100 piastres make 1 Egyptian Pound,
and happy would it be for the traveller if all his money transactions in the
country could be based on such a simple formula; but unfortunately there
are nearly as many foreign coinages current in Egypt as there are foreign
consuls, and the result is eminently unsatisfactory. At present the only
coinage accepted by the Egyptian Government are the Egyptian piastres and
its multiples, and French, English, and Italian gold. A new coinage has
lately been introduced in Egypt, in which the piastre is divided into 10
parts instead of into 40 paras, and the following coins have been put in
circulation:—

Silver.—Pieces of 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 piastres.
Nickel.—Pieces of 1/10,2/10, and 5/10 of a piastre.
There are a larger number of bad piastres in circulation, and care should be
taken not to accept these. It is of importance to note that piastres have two
values—tariff and current; the tariff value is the standard one, and is used
in all the government offices, by bankers in their accounts, and in the lists of
fares for the railways and telegraphs; the current value sometimes changes
precisely as the value of paper money fluctuates as compared with gold, but
with this difference, that there is no paper money nor anything else to represent
the current piastre. All the petty commerce of Egypt at the markets and
in the bazaars is carried on in current piastres; and consequently, whenever
the traveller is told the price of anything in piastres, it is current piastres that
are meant. It may be taken as a general rule that the current piastre is half
the value of the tariff piastre; there is but one coin to represent the two
values. Those who wish to study the subject of Egyptian exchanges, and the
conversion of current into tariff piastres, should purchase the Egyptian Commercial
Calculating Tables
, published at Alexandria. There is also an old
copper coinage, but it is so greatly depreciated in value that it is little used.
When drawing money from a banker, English sovereigns or napoleons had
better be taken. The rate of exchange will be calculated in tariff piastres,
which vary from 97 1/2 par to 94 for the sovereign, and from 77 to 74 1/2 for the
napoleon. Letters of credit and circular notes should be taken without
charge by the bankers, but they will often claim from 1 1/2 to 2 per cent.
though 1 at the utmost is all that should be charged for commission.
The traveller should certainly resist a charge of 2 per cent., and, if it
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF COINS.
Name of Coin in Arabic Coins. Egyptian Currency a English Currency. French Currency. Remarks.
Pas Taras. £. s. d. Frs. Cts.
Gineh Ingleekee English sovereign 195 0 1 0 0 25 0 a. Value in current piastres. Half the number of these piastres represent the tariff value.
Noos Ingleekee English 1/2 sovereign 97 20 10 0 12 50
Gineh Masree Egyptian sovereign 200 0 1 0 6 25 60
Noos Egyptian 1/2 sovereign 100 0 10 3 12 80
Gineh Stamboolee b. Turkish sovereign 175 20 18 0 22 80
Noos Stamboolee Turkish 1/2 sovereign 87 30 9 0 11 40
Binto Stamboolee Napoleon 155 0 16 0 20 0
Noos Binto Half napoleon 77 20 8 0 10 0 b. Seldom met with
Talari or Reyal Egyptian dollar 40 0 4 0 5 0
Medjidieh Turkish dollar 36 0 4 0 5 0
Khamsah franc 5-franc piece 38 20 4 0 5 0
Shilling Shilling 9 30 1 0 1 25
Noos shilling Sixpence 4 35 6 60
Franc Franc 7 20 10 1 0
Noos franc Half-franc 3 30 5 50
Groosh pl. geersh Egyptian silver piastre 2 0 2 1/2 25
Asharh fóddah Egyptian copper 20-para
piece
20c. c. Nominal value, actual value is much less.
Asharah fóddah Do. do. 10-para piece 10c.
Khamsah fóddah Do. do. 5-para piece 5c

is persisted in, go to some other banker. It makes very little, or indeed
no difference, whether sovereigns or napoleons are taken. For all practical
purposes the sovereign may be reckoned at 25 francs (rather less
than its value), and the napoleon 16 shillings (rather more than its value).
In the European shops at Alexandria and Cairo the prices will be named
according to the nationality of the shopkeeper; and in the native shops to
which travellers usually resort the price is asked nearly always in sovereigns
(gineh), napoleons (binto), shillings (shilling), or francs (franc). The hotel
bills will be made out either in English or French money. Before starting
up the Nile, the traveller should provide himself with some small change for
purchases, &c. This should be taken in Egyptian dollars, 1 and 2 piastre
silver pieces, and 5, 10, and 20 para copper pieces, the copper being especially
required in Nubia.

4. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

8 Mitkál make 1 Okéea (wokéea) or Arab oz.
12 Okéea — 1 Rotl or pound (about 1 lb. avoirdupois).
2 3/4 Rotl — 1 Oka or Wukka (about 2 lbs. 11 oz.)
100 Rotl — 1 Kantár (about 98 3/4 avoirdupois).
102 Rotl — 1 Kantár for pepper, &c.
108 Rotl — 1 Kantár for coffee.
120 Rotl — 1 Kantár for cotton.
150 Rotl — 1 Kantár for gums, &c.
For Gold, Gums, &c.
4 Kumh (Grains) make 1 Keerát (Carat) or Kharóobeh.
64 Grains or 16 Keerát 1 Derhm (47 5/8 to 49 grains English).
1 1/2 Derhm, or 24 Kecrát 1 Mitkál (from about 1 drachm to 72 drachm to 72 grs. English).
12 Derhm 1 Okéea or oz. (from 571 1/2 to 576 grs. English).
12 Okéea 1 Rotl or pound.
150 Rotl 1 Kantár.

Measures of Length

  • Fitr, or span with forefinger and thumb.
  • Shíbr, longest span with little finger and thumb.
  • Kubdeh, human fist, with the thumb erect.
  • 1 Drah beledee, or cubit, equal to 22 to 22 2/3 inches English.
  • 1 Drah Stambóolee, or Pik, equal to 26 to 26 1/2 inches English.
  • 1 Drah Hindázee (for cloth, &c.) equal to about 25 inches English.
  • 2 Bah (braces) equal to 1 Kassobeh or 11 1/2 feet.
Land Measures.
22 (formerly 24) Kharóobeh or Kúbdeh make {1 Kassobeh, equal to from 11 ft. 4 1/2 in. to 11 ft. 7 1/4 in. English.
13 7/ Kassobeh or rods — 1 Keerát.
24 Keerát, or 333 Kassobeh — {1 Feddán or acre, equal to about 5082 square yards or 1 1/20 English acre.
Corn Measure.
In Lower Egypt.
2 Kadah make 1 Malwah.
2 Malwah 1 Roob.
2 Roob 1 Keilah.
2 Keilah 1 Waybeh.
6 Waybeh 1 Ardeb.
1 Kadah equals 467 gallon.
In Upper Egypt.
4 Roftow make 1 Mid.
3 Roob 1 Mid.
8 Mid or 1 Ardeb, or nearly 5 Eng. bushels.
6 Waybeh 1 Ardeb, or nearly 5 Eng. bushels

5. RAILWAYS.—MODES OF TRAVELLING.

The first railway made in Egypt was that between Alexandria and Cairo
in 1855. Stephenson was the engineer, and he proposed it in conjunction
with the direct line between Cairo and Suez, now disused, as an alternative
for the Maritime Canal across the Isthmus of Suez . The Railway System now extends to a length of about 900 miles, and connects all the important
towns of the Delta, besides extending up the river as far as Asyoot,
with a branch to the Fayoom, &c. Owing to the extreme flatness of the
country, the cost of making the railways has been comparatively small, there
being no viaducts, tunnels, &c. The bridges over the two branches of the
Nile on the Alexandria-Cairo line are the only structures of importance. The
lines are uniformly laid on an embankment of earth thrown up to the height
of a few feet above the level of the soil. Cast-iron chairs, which look like
huge saucers, separated by transverse round iron bars, to keep them parallel,
support the rails. The Alexandria-Cairo line was entirely made by English
engineers, and for a long time the engine-drivers and stokers were mostly
Englishmen, but now the employés on all the lines are generally natives.
With the exception of the express trains between Alexandria and Cairo, which
are very punctual, time is badly kept on all the lines. The first-class
carriages are fairly good. It is well to be at the station some time before
the train starts, especially with luggage. The hours of departure are very
seldom altered, but the local time-tables had always better be consulted.
The great highway of Egypt, especially above Cairo, is the Nile, and sailing
or floating along it in a Dahabeeyeh is still, railways and steamboats notwithstanding,
the pleasantest way of seeing the country. These boats can be
hired at Alexandria, on the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal, but a far larger choice is
to be found at Cairo, and accordingly travellers usually wait till they arrive at
the latter place before taking one. Full particulars with regard to this mode
of travelling will be found in Section VII., where also information is given about
the Steamboats that ply between Cairo and the First Cataract during the winter
months. Small screw-steamers run between Port Said and Ismailia on
the , for which see p. 304
There are many places, however, in Egypt which can be reached by neither
railway nor boat, and recourse must then be had to that useful, and in Egypt
by no means to be despised animal, the donkey. The Egyptian Donkey is
patient, sure-footed, and very enduring, and his paces are generally easy. It
is best to use the saddle of the country, which has a hump like a lace-pillow
in front, but ladies will generally prefer a side-saddle, and had better therefore
provide themselves with one. As the native saddles are very apt to turn
round, no reliance should be placed on the stirrups.
For long excursions into the desert Camels will be required. The ordinary
baggage-camel is very heavy and rough in his paces, and it requires considerable
experience in camel riding before the Hegeen or trotting camel can
be mounted with any comfort. The paces of a quiet, smooth-walking camel
are, however, by no means unpleasant. Full particulrs as to camel-riding
will be found under Route 14a

6. POSTS.—TELEGRAPHS.

Formerly, nearly every European country had its own Post Office at Alexandria
and Cairo, but that system has, with one or two exceptions at Alexandria,
been quite done away with, and both the external and internal service is performed
by the Egyptian Post Office. Letters to and from Egypt and Europe
can be despatched viâ Brindisi, Marseilles, or Trieste, there being a weekly
mail by each route. Egypt is now a member of the Postal Union, and the
postage between it and the other countries of the union (nearly all Europe)
is 2 1/2d. or 1 piastre the 1/2 oz. for letters, and 1/2d. or 20 paras the 1/2 oz. for
book-packets. The union post-cards can also be used. The postal communication
in Egypt itself is confined to the principal towns. The postage
varies from 5 paras to 1 piastre, according to weight and distance.
There are two Telegraph Systems in Egypt, one belonging to the Eastern
Telegraph Company, the other to the Egyptian Government. The Egyptian
Government telegraph is in operation throughout the whole of Egyptian
territory, and extends over more than 2700 miles, reaching southwards as
far as Wady Halfa; northwards it goes as far as Gaza. Messages can be
sent by it to and from all the principal towns in the Delta, the Fayoom, and
Upper Egypt. Between most of the stations telegrams can be sent in
English, French, or Italian, but at some of the smaller ones Arabic must
be used.

7. HOTELS.—APARTMENTS.—SERVANTS.

Good Hotels are to be found at Alexandria, Cairo, Helwán (near Cairo),
Port Said, Suez, Ismailia, and Luxor. The pension system is adopted at all
of them, and so much a day charged for lodging, attendance, and board.
This charge varies from 12 fr. to 20 fr., and includes two or three meals in
the day; wine extra. Sitting-rooms can be had at the best hotels at from
10s. to 1l. a day. No difference is made in the charge whether the meals
are eaten in the house or not. If a long stay is intended, arrangements at a
lower rate should be made in advance. At Tantah, Mansoorah, Zagazig, and
one or two large towns in Upper Egypt, there are what the French would
call estaminets, where food and a bed can be obtained, but they are not to be
recommended.
In all parts of Egypt where there are no hotels or inns, the traveller, if without
a dahabeeyeh or tents, must trust to the hospitality of the principal natives
or of European officials or merchants.
Apartments can be procured both at Alexandria and Cairo; but it is necessary
to have some knowledge of the country and the language, or to secure the
services of a very good and trustworthy servant. Under these conditions, and
if a long stay is to be made, the cost of living may be less than in an hotel.
Servants, a necessary evil anywhere, are especially so in the East. The
traveller may indeed, if he only intends visiting Alexandria and Cairo, and

the line of the , do without them, or at any rate he need only hire
an occasional valet de place, at from 5s. to 8s. a day, according to the service
rendered. But if he intends to travel about by himself, he must provide
himself with one or more; and should he know nothing of the country or the
language, a dragoman (terjumán) will be indispensable. The dragoman,
literally an interpreter, will take all trouble off his hands, and for a fixed
sum defray all the expenses of travelling, food, lodging, servants, &c.
All who can should get a dragoman recommended to them by friends who
have had experience of him: it will save them a great deal of trouble, and
they will feel more sure of the sort of man they have to deal with. Those
who are new to the country should apply to Messrs. T. Cook & Sons, who
have an office close to Shepheard's Hotel in Cairo.
There are dragomen of every sort and kind, good, bad, and indifferent; and
the traveller who has to choose from among the numbers who present themselves
at Alexandria and Cairo, must take his chance. But it is seldom that
the really good ones, who confessedly are at the head of their profession, fail
to give satisfaction. Their charges, however, are very extravagant; and
travellers who are not so particular as to comfort and luxuries; may find a
very fair dragoman who will do everything at a lower rate. As a class, dragomen
are obliging and honest, after an Eastern feshion; and, though their one
aim and object is to make the most of their bargain, they are, at any rate the
best of them liberal in the fulfilment of their contract. One thing, however.
the traveller must not expect, and that is, to obtain from them accurate information
any kind. They know absolutely nothing about the various objects
of interest in Cairo, and the old ruins on the Nile, which they go to year after
year: and though always ready with an answer if asked any question about
the country and the people, the probability is that the answer is as inaccurate
as it is prompt. The dragoman is in fact a courier and maître d'hôtel in
one, but he has none of the kind of information possessed by the commonest
laquais de place in a continental own.
The expense of a dragoman varies with the nature of the journey and the
things required. Full information on these points will be found at the beginning
of each Route.

8. CLIMATE.

a. GENERAL REMARKS ON THE SANITARY STATE OF THE COUNTRY.

The climate of Egypt is remarkably dry and salubrious, and, although the
mortality amongst the inhabitants is great, it can easily be accounted for apart
from the climate. Through the ignorance, superstition, and filthiness of the
natives, there is an excessive infant mortality, and the death -rate amongst the
young and adult Egyptians is greatly increased by the privations, hard work,
and exposure they have to endure. Besides this, a great number of the poor
die for want of medical care and advice, which the Government does not
supply them with, unless in the hospitals, of which the natives have a deepseated
dread. They prefer to die at their homes, surrounded by their friends,
rather than enter a hospital. Much, however, is being done to remedy this
state things, especially since the English occupation of Egypt; and the
sanitary service, which is under an English doctor, is greatly improved.
Except the Delta and sea-coast towns, the country is quite exempt from Iow
severs and disease of the chest. Ophthalmia, diarrhœa, dysentery, and affections
of the liver are the principal endemic complaints. Only two or three months of

the year can be called unhealthy, and that not to any great degree; but a
severe epidemic often sweeps over the country and depopulates whole districts.
Formerly it used to be “the plague,” but in later years it has taken the type
of cholera, which finds a favourable nidus for propagation in the pestiferous
houses of the towns and in the personal dirtiness of the fellaheen. When an
epidemic breaks out, it generally rages for three or four months; all business
is suspended, and Europeans and others flee the country, to return
again after the danger is past. Occasionally, also, murrain is prevalent as
an epidemio among the cattle, and vast numbers of them are destroyed by it.
An extremely low Nile is apt to produce disease both in man and beast: thus,
Cholera and murrain may both exist together, as in 1865 and 1883. In the
latter year the cholera was preceded by a bad type of cattle disease. The
mortality was considerable.

b. TEMPERATURE.

The Egyptian climate is more uniform than that of any other place on the
globe. Still it varies considerably through the different parts of the country.
The whole of Middle and Upper Egypt is characterised by great dryness and
clearness of the atmosphere, while the Delta enjoys a much cooler and damper
climate. Certain localities are having their climates noticeably modified by
new and extensive irrigation, by the cultivation of large tracts of previously
sterile land, and by the growth of trees. The immense surface of water now
exposed by the to the influence of a tropical sun must produce
local disturbances of the atmosphere, while the northerly winds, that blow for
about eight months in the year, as they pass over the Canal district, will carry
along with them a considerable amount of moisture, which, combined with that
arising from the annual overflow of the Nile, would lead us to expect still
milder summers but damper winters in Middle and Lower Egypt.
The mean annual temperature at Cairo is about 71° F. From the peculiar
dryness of the atmosphere it is rendered more susceptible of sudden changes of
temperature; but the fact of its dryness prevents the injurious effects that
often result from such sudden changes. The thermometer often indicates a
variation of 20°F. between morning and mid-day, and as much between midday
and evening. The early morning is invariably cool, but after two or three
hours the sun's warmth is speedily communicated to the atmosphere, which
continues warm till near sunset, when it rapidly cools; and if there be any
moisture in the air, it now appears as dew which has fallen on the ground, half
an hour after sunset. Although the thermometer falls suddenly about sunset,
it soon rises again from the radiation of the heat absorbed by the earth during
the day. Towards morning it falls again, to rise with the return of the sun.
The thermometer seldom falls to 40° F. at Cairo, but it is frequently lower
on the Nile. The coldest months in the year are December and January, and
the hottest are August and September, but even then it is cool in the shade.
The humidity of the atmosphere is principally controlled by the rise and fall
of the Nile. Fogs prevail during the first two months of the receding of the
waters. Evening fogs descend very quickly as the sun goes down, and are as
quickly deposited after the sun has set, leaving the sky clear and the air as
fresh as after a good shower. Morning fogs are soon dispelled by the heat of
the sun, and then follows the clear beautiful day.
On the desert the air is always dry and bracing, and much cooler than that
over cultivated land. Dews at night are common in the early and later parts
of the year, but exposure to them is not attended with any risk. During
winter the nights are piercingly cold on the desert. The moonlight nights
are singularly brilliant, but when there is no moon the darkness that envelopes
the earth seems so thick that you can almost feel it, while the sky above is
quite clear.

c. THE SEASONS.

In Egypt there may be said to be only two seasons in the year—Summer
and Winter.
The Summer extends from April to the end of September. It is ushered in
by strong equinoctial winds, which are at first cool; but they soon give place to
the hot south wind, or khamseen, so called from blowing at intervals during a
period of 50 days. This wind is very peculiar, and may be thus described. It
is preceded by an unusual stillness of the atmosphere, and, as it approaches, the
air assumes a dusky yellow hue from being laden with impalpable dust, through
which the sun shines obscurely, and gradually becomes quite concealed. Electric
influences accompany this wind, so that, notwithstanding the excessive heat,
one feels excited rather than depressed by it. The respiration is quickened, and
the skin becomes quite dry and shrunk; and sometimes a prickly sensation is
felt all over the body. This wind blows generally for three days in succession,
with intervals of four or five days. It sometimes lasts from ten to twelve days
continuously, and if blowing from the south-east is not only very destructive
to vegetation, but exhausting to the animal organism. The khamseens are
not so severe as formerly, and they always cease about the middle of May;
northerly winds then set in and blow almost constantly till November, when
for two or three weeks easterly winds prevail.
A north wind blowing constantly during the summer months modifies the
heat considerably. After the harvest in June, the country becomes an aridlooking
waste; everything appears burned up, and the ground is dry and
cracked in every direction. During May and June the Nile remains at its
lowest, but by the end of June it begins to rise, and continues to increase till
the middle of September. Before it has reached its height all the canals are
filled, and the water is admitted into the fields. Such a surface of water
materially alters the temperature, and light dews now occur about sunset, all
through the lower country. As the river falls, leaving the land wet and
exposed to the action of the sun, exhalations arise, which render the Delta
somewhat unhealthy; the prevailing diseases then being ophthalmia, dysentery,
diarrhœa, and ague. By the middle of November the river has retired within
its banks; and, except at this particular time, the atmosphere is remarkably
free from humidity. The average summer temperature is about 85° F.: the
mornings and nights throughout the whole summer being always pleasantly
cool.
The Winter begins in October and ends in March. It is so genial and
uniform as to prove a great attraction to invalids, who find here a winter
climate unsurpassed by that of any other country in the world. “Boat life on
the Nile is the most enjoyable of all restoratives for the sick; and for lovers of
all that is luxurious in travel, of all that is glorious in memory, of the grand,
the beautiful, the picturesque, and the strange, Egyptian travel is the perfection
of life.” The atmosphere continues to be comparatively dry till the
middle of November, when there is an appreciable amount of humidity arising
from the land left wet by the Nile. The dews at night and in the morning
are now sometimes quite heavy, but they are of short duration, and by the end
of December they more or less disappear, and the air regains its former dryness,
though there are occasional showers.
Rain seldom falls in Upper Egypt; but on the Delta and along the Mediterranean
coast it is not at all uncommon at this season. About Alexandria
there would be on an average 13 rainy days during the winter. At Cairo,
five or six showers would be the average, and these not at all heavy. In
winter, as in summer, “great changes of temperature take place in the 24
hours, owing to the general dryness and clearness of the atmosphere, which
favour rapid evaporation during the day and radiation of heat during the

night.” At Cairo the thermometer seldom falls under freezing-point, and
natural ice is seen but rarely. ‘Snow is unknown: but in Upper Egypt and on
the Delta, hail and thunder storms sometimes oecur with great violence, and
do much injury; the hailstones being frequently as large as a pigeon's egg.
North winds prevail in December, January, and February, and they are often
piercingly cold. As you ascend the Nile the weather becomes warmer and
the atmosphere drier, so that Upper add Middle Egypt are more healthy than
the lower country or Delta.
The mean winter temperature at Cairo is about 58° F. The season ends
with boisterous southerly winds and dust storms, which begin to blow about
the latter part of March, and continue for one, two, or three days at a time
till the proper khamseen sets in.

d. DISEASES FOR WHICH THE CLIMATE IS BENEFICIAL.

The following very trustworthy and judicious remarks are from Dr. Patterson's
book, called Egypt and the Nile, a little work which every invalid would
do well to procure, in the absence of any exhaustive medical treatise on the
climate of Egypt, a thing much needed:—
“Phthisical and bronchial affections, chronic diseases of the mucous membranes,
congestive diseases of the abdominal viscera, nervous exhaustion,
debilitated circulation from progressive disease of the heart, and especially
that form attending advancing years, scrofulous diseases of every kind, and
struma in its various manifestations, are the diseases in which a most marked
improvement has been observed from a residence in Egypt. In the early stage
of phthisis, hereditary or acquired, indicated by general delicacy of constitution,
a prolonged residence in Egypt is generally attended with the best
results; but the patient should spend two or three winters at least. In that
form of early phthisis where much bronchial irritation exists, the stimulating
effect of the dry air on the irritable mucous membranes of the trachea and
bronchi is sometimes great for the first few days after arrival, but it soon
wears off. Cases of this kind should not come straight on to Cairo, but spend
a few days in Alexandria; they may then safely proceed on their Nile journey.
Under such favourable conditions of atmosphere, the effect of a comparatively
high temperature, and a peculiar, not to be described—stimulating, yet balmy
—influence in the general functions of the body, this climate may be, and often
is, of great service in the advanced stages of pulmonary phthisis. It may
succeed for a time, and I believe does, in arresting the progress of suppurative
tubercle; yet the effects of a long journey, the frequent changes of diet, and
the want of many of the personal comforts and attentions to which such
patients have been accustomed, cause me strongly to impress a careful consideration
before advising them to come to Egypt, and especially to go up the
Nile. If it be desirable that such cases should come, let them be advised to
remain in Cairo for a time, where they can lead a quiet, regular, and vegetative
sort of life; then, should they improve, they can try the Nile. As a
rule, the Nile-boat life is not adapted to such cases, unless they proceed under
very favourable conditions of attendance and companionship; otherwise the
fatigue and excitement attending the preparations and details of the Nile
voyage irritates and weakens them. They are far away from medical advice
and, from debility, are seldom in a condition to take the amount of exercise
requisite to keep their functions in order. … The invalid in an incipient
state of consumption can, by regulating his movements, command an almost
uniform condition of daily climate for several months: first, by a short stay in
Cairo; then, by following the seasons, he may proceed up the Nile until he
reaches a climate where the heat is just sufficient to allow him to spend much of
the day in the open air, and have regular exercise without being much fatigued.

He can then drop gradually down the Nile towards Cairo, keeping nearly the
same temperature all the way. If he reaches Cairo late in March, or even a
little earlier, he will then find a condition of climate such as is, probably,
found in no other place, in which he can remain a few weeks. About the
middle of April the mid-day temperature begins to be felt a little too warm
for a debilitated system, and the chance of being surprised by the hot winds
renders it advisable to depart. A short stay in Alexandria will then be found
beneficial, as the air is several degrees cooler than that of Cairo, the
humidity not too great, and the early hot winds are little felt. … Chronic
bronchitis, with or without much secretion of bronchial mucus, chronic
affections of the larynx and trachea, nearly all derive benefit. … Pure
asthmatic affections follow their usual vagaries here, as elsewhere. Some are
benefited, others not at all. Patients of this class however, when residing in
Egypt, are favourably situated as regards the facility for change. They are
within access of four modifications of climate—Alexandria, Cairo, Suez, and
Ismailia—so that when one does not give relief, another may be tried. There
are also the Nile and the desert. The latter, however, is seldom available,
except under circumstances unfavourable to debilitated states of system. …
The Egyptian climate, by allowing such great freedom for open-air exercise,
and exposure to the tonic action of sun-light, has a marked influence in
modifying the ill-effects arising from a scrofulous state of system. Few of the
sufferers from this disease, from colder latitudes, go away unbenefited. …
Diseases of rheumatic and gouty origin are often benefited, when the patient
will lead the life he ought to do; but this class of invalid seldom does so. …
To the overworked teacher and student, the care-burdened merchant and man
of business, and those subjected to a hard daily routine, which has broken down
their stamina, and induced a highly-excited state of nervous system; the confirmed
dyspeptic and hypochondriacal invalid; the depressed and anxiousminded;
the nervous and hysterical female;—to all these the Egyptian
climate may be beneficial. In a country where the manners and habits of
life are so different from what obtains in European countries, pleasant and
varied objects of attention, which strike the imagination and keep the mind
employed, tend much to improve the depressed morale and morbidly anxious
mind of the invalid. The bright and sunny sky is in itself an incentive to
cheerfulness and pleasure, which, combined with the amount of healthy
open-air exercise necessary to attain the enjoyment of sight-seeing, cannot
fail to produce favourable results whenever that is possible. Indeed, in all
cases where a dry and bracing air, bright sunshine, freedom from rain and
atmospheric impurities, are the desiderata, the Egyptian winter climate claims
an important, if not the most important, place.”
To these last remarks may well be added those of a recent writer on
Nile life, himself an invalid. Mr. Frederic Eden, in his Nile without a
Dragoman
, says:—” I cannot make an end without saying once more that the
climate of Upper Egypt, in the winter, is as enjoyable as I believe any on
earth can be; that of the monotony experienced by some travellers we found
none; and that, to a sick man, the life led on the Nile is as agreeable as it is
health-giving. To be absolutely free from any care, but that perversely
carried with you; to be absent from the hurry, bustle, and activity of home
daily life, with enough to occupy and distract, and nothing to fatigue the
brain; with air as balmy as it is soft, appetite-giving and sleep-compelling;
with sun to warm by day, and freshness by night to string and brace the
nerves; with all temptation to live in the open air, and cabins to retire to,
literally under the foot, whenever rest or quiet be desired;—every aid is
given to weary nature striving to recover her lost powers. And of all the
many places to which, seeking for health, I have been sent by doctors, by
friends recommended, or by fancy prompted, I know of none to be compared to

the Nile, either for the enjoyment it affords, or the chances of recovery it
offers.”

e. CLOTHING AND MODE OF LIFE.

Invalids coming to Egypt for the winter should be well provided with warm
Clothing, and should always wear flannel next the skin. Two tweed suits, one
of lighter texture than the other, form the best outfit for the ordinary traveller:
and on the Nile voyage he will find flannel shirts the best both for health and
convenience of washing. Should he, however, intend to make a long stay in
Alexandria or Cairo, and become acquainted with the European residents, he
will require a black coat, dress clothes, and white shirts. A broad belt round
the waist is thought to be a useful precaution; perhaps the best thing of its
kind is the Syrian silk scarf so much used by the natives. The head should
be well protected: for this purpose the best head-dress is a common felt
helmet or wide-awake, with a turban of white muslin (puggaree) wound
round it. Some prefer a pith helmet. The red tarboosh with which
travellers so often delight to adorn themselves, even when worn, as it should
be, with the linen cap or takeeyeh underneath, affords little or no protection
to those unaccustomed to an Egyptian sun, and as it is the mark of a Government
official, it is hardly a suitable headdress for the ordinary traveller.
Brown leather boots and shoes will be found the most useful up the Nile.
Ladies would find Wellington boots of brown leather a great convenience.
Coloured-glass spectacles with gauze sides afford great relief to the eye from
the glare of the sun, and a blue or green veil is often useful for the same
purpose.
In winter it is unnecessary to make any change in the Mode of Living from
that usually adopted in Europe; and most persons may eat whatever they
are accustomed to in other countries. It is, however, better to avoid much
wine or spirits, as they tend to heat the blood, and cause the hot weather to be
more sensibly felt; and some will find that fish (chiefly those without scales),
eggs, and unboiled milk, do not always agree with them. Bathing in the
Nile is by no means prejudicial in the morning and evening; and, except in
the neighbourhood of sandbanks past the First Cataract, there is no fear of
crocodiles. Fruit and vegetables when the former are not eaten to excess,
and the latter are properly cooked, are wholesome and cooling, and mutton is
better than beef. The fish of the Nile are not very good. Light Bordeaux
and Rhine wines are the most wholesome; beer requires strong exercise.
“The Nile water, when well filtered, is soft and pure, and may be safely
used. With some it may at first disagree, and have a tendency to induce
diarrhœa, and until this is overcome it should be tempered with a little good
brandy.” Care should be taken never to sleep in a draught: and invalids
should avoid bedrooms on the ground-floor. A warm great-coat and rugs will
often be found needful in Egypt during the winter, as the evenings, especially
on the Nile, are often very cold.

f. MEDICINES, AND TREATMENT OF SLIGHT AILMENTS.

There are very good European doctors and chemists at Alexandria and
Cairo, and in cases of serious illness resort should at once be had to a doctor.
The only medicines with which a traveller need provide himself are quinine
pills (three grains to each pill), chlorodyne, and sticking plaster.
The following directions, chiefly from Dr. Patterson's book, for the treatment of ailments incident to the climate, will be found of service.
Headache and biliary disturbance is often brought on by exposure to the
sun. It is best treated by a smart purgative, and by bathing the head
copiously with cold water, while the feet are kept in hot water, to which a
tea-spoonful of common mustard may be added. If very severe, 8 or 10 leeches
should be applied to the temples.
In simple diarrhœa take a blue pill, and after three hours 5 grains of
Dover's powder, which may be repeated, if need be, at the same interval;
or a small table-spoonful of castor-oil, with 10 drops of laudanum, or 3 grains
of Dover's powder. In severer cases of diarrhœa, take 15 drops of diluted
sulphuric acid in a small wine-glass of water every half-hour, till four doses
have been given; and if then no effect is produced, take Dover's powder as
above.
For dysentery, the best treatment is first a blue pill, and after three hours a
table-spoonful of the following mixture, to be repeated every hour, or two hours,
according to the severity of the symptoms:—Castor-oil, 2 table-spoonfuls;
whites of 4 eggs; 2 wine-glassfuls of water to be added gradually, and beaten
up with the above; a little powdered gum-arabic may be usefully added to
this mixture.
In all cases of diarrhœa and dysentery, a rice diet is the best; and the
drink should be rice-water, or toast-and-water, or the whites of a few eggs
beaten up with water. A grain of quinine a day is a very convenient tonic
after the attack is over.
Ophthalmia begins by a slight redness and itching of the eyelids, and
feeling of grittiness in the eyes, as though sand had got into them, accompanied
after a time by a viscid matter causing the eyelids to adhere together.
The best simple remedies are constant sponging of the eyes with tepid water
and milk, or simple tepid (never cold) water, taking care to wipe them quite dry
afterwards, avoidance of light, wearing a shade, and dropping between the eyelids
three times a day a few drops of a wash containing from 5 to 6 grains of
sulphate of zinc in a large table-spoonful of water, or, still better, rose-water.
A slight purgative and low diet is also necessary. In very severe forms of
this complaint, it may be necessary to have recourse to more severe measures,
such as leeches, and the use of a strong collyrium containing from 5 to 8
grains of nitrate of silver in 1 oz. of water, or rose-water. Simply bathing the
eye with warm water will often remove an irritation which, if neglected, might
end in ophthalmia.
Any premonitory symptoms of fever should be at once met with a quinine
pill, to be repeated if necessary.
In all cases of sickness, one piece of advice should be borne in mind alike
by the physician and the patient. Use all medicines sparingly, especially the
stronger purgatives. “Many invalids partly nullify the good effect of change
of climate, by continually dosing themselves with physic, and keeping their
organs in a constant state of irritation.”

9. GEOGRAPHY.

a. ANCIENT EGYPT.

In the ancient Egyptian language, as well as in Coptic, Egypt is called
Khemi, or the land of Khem, the “Ham” of the Bible, meaning “the black
land,” a name derived from the blackness, of the soil. By the Hebrews it
was called Misraim, a name still preserved in the modern Arabic appellation
Misr , the meaning of which is doubtful. Its Greek name was .
From the old inscriptions we learn that the country was divided into two

large districts, styled the “land of the North” and the “land of the South,”
or the Upper country and the Lower country. The land of the North extended
from the neighbourhood of Memphis to the sea, and corresponded with what
was afterwards termed by the Greeks, from its resemblance to the fourth
letter of their alphabet, the Delta, the name by which it is known to us;
the Arabs styled it Beheyreh. The land of the South included the remainder
of the country as far as the island of Elephantine, opposite Syene (the modern
Assooán); this the Arabs called Saeed. One of the titles of the old kings
was “Lord of the two countries,” and on the day of their coronation they
received two crowns, a white upper one and a red lower one, in token of sovereignty
over the South and North respectively.
These two large divisions were further subdivided into districts, called by
the Greeks Nomes (Nó ). The number of these nomes seems to have
varied. The old Egyptian lists generally give 44; Pliny the same number;
Strabo and Diodorus 36; the usually received number is 42. Of these, 20
were in the Lower country, or Delta, and 22 in the Upper country. Each
nome had its own capital, the residence of the hereditary governor. “The
capital formed likewise the central point of the particular divine worship of
the district which belonged to it. The sacred lists of the nomes have handed
down to us the names of the temple of the chief deity, of the priests and
priestesses, of the holy trees, and also the names of the town-harbour of the
holy canal, the cultivated land, and the land which was only fruitful during
the inundation, and much more information, in such completeness, that we are
in a position, from the indications contained in these lists, to form the most
exact picture of each Egyptian nome in all its details, almost without any
gaps.”—Brugsch, ‘Egypt under the Pharaohs.'
The following is a list of the nomes, with their Greek names, and the
names of their capital towns, both in Egyptian and Greek, with the corresponding
modern Arabic town or village.
THE SOUTH COUNTRY OR UPPER EGYPT.
NOMES. CAPTTALS.
Egyptian. Greek. Modern Arabic.
1. Ombites Abu Ombos Kom Ombo.
2. Apollinopolites Teb Apollinopolis Magna Edfoo.
3. Latopolites Nekheb Latopolis Esneh.
Eileithyia El Kab.
4. Hermonthites Her-mont Hermonthis Erment.
5. Pathyrites Koorneh.
6. Diospolites No-amen Diospolis Magna Karnak and Luxor.
7. Coptites Kobti Coptos Kaft.
8. Tentyrites Tan-te-rer Tentyra Denderah.
9. Diospolites Ha Diospolis Parva How.
10. Thinites Abdu This, Abydus Beerbeh, Arábat el. Matfoon.
11. Panopolites Apu Panopolis Ekhmeem.
12. Aphroditopolites Tebu Aphroditopolis Atfeh.
13. Antæopolites Ni-ent-bak Antæopolis Gow el-Kebeer.
14. Hypselites Shas-hotep Hypselis Shodb.
15. Lycopolites Siaut Lycopolis Asyoot.
16. Antinotes Antinoöpolis Sheikh Abádch.
17. Hermopolites Khimunu Hermopolis Magna Oshmoonáyn.
18. Cynopolites Ku-sa Cynopolis El Kays.
19. Oxyrhinchites Pi-masa Oxyrhinchus Béhnesa.
20. Heracleopolites Khinensn Heracleopolis Ahnas el-Medeeneh.
21. Arsinoites Crocodilopolis, or Arsinoë Medeenet el-Fayoo.
22. Aphroditopolites Tep-ah Aphroditopolis Atfeeyeh.
THE NORTH COUNTRY OR LOWER EGYPT.
NOMES. CAPITALS.
Egyptian. Greek. Modern Arabic.
1. Memphites Men-nofer Memphis Mitrahenny.
2. Letopelites Sokhem Letopolis
3. Libya Ni-ent-hapi Apis
4. Saïtes Zoka Canopus
5. Saïtes Sa Saïs Sa el-Hagar.
6. Xoïtes Khesun Xoïs
7. Metelites Sonti-nefer Metelis Fooah.
8. Sethroïtes Thukot (Succoth?) Sethroë
9. Busirites Pi-usir Busiris Abooseer (?).
10. Athribites Ha-ta-hirab Athribis Tel Atreeb, Benha el-Assal.
11. Cabasites Ka-hebes Cabasa Kom Shabas.
12. Sebennytes Theb-nuter Sebennytus Semenhood.
13. Heliopolites Anu On, Heliopolis Matareeyeh.
14. Tanites Zoan Tanis San.
15. Hermopolites Pi-thnt Hermopolis Parva Damanhoor.
16. Mendesius Pi-bi-neb-dad Mendes Ashmoon, or Tel-et-Tmel.
17. Diospolites Pi-khun-en-Amen Diospolis
18. Bubastites Pi-bast Bubastis Tel Basta (Zagazig).
19. Pthenestes Pi-uto Buto
20. Pharbæthites Kosem Pharbæthus Herbit.
It may be remarked that at a later period there were three divisions,
portions of Upper and Lower Egypt being taken to form a Middle Egypt,
called by the Greeks, from its containing 7 nomes, Heptanomis. Upper
Egypt, or the Thebaïd, then reached to the Thebaïca Phylace (), now
Daroot esh-Shereéf; Heptanomis thence to the fork of the Delta; and the
rest was comprehended in Lower Egypt. In the time of the later Roman
emperors, the Delta, or Lower Egypt, was divided into 4 provinces or districts
—Augustamnica Prima and Secunda, and Ægyptus Prima and Secunda;
being still subdivided into the same nomes: and in the name of Arcadius, the
son of Theodosius the Great, Heptanomis received the name of Arcadia. The
Thebaïd, too, was made into two parts, under the name of Upper and Lower,
the line of separation passing between Panopolis and Ptolemaïs Hermii. The
nomes also increased in number, and amounted to 57, of which the Delta
contained 34, nearly equal to those of all Egypt in the time of the Pharaohs.
Although many of the old Egyptian kings extended their dominions from
time to time beyond the southern border of Elephantine, as is proved by the
various temples above the First Cataract, and one dynasty, the XXVth, was
actually composed of Ethiopian kings, who conquered the whole of Upper
Egypt, and reigned from Thebes to Napata, or Gebel Barkal, there is no
record of any geographical division of this more southern country. Under
the Ptolemies, the more northern portion of what is now called Nubia had
the name of Dodeca-Schænus, or “12 schænes,” and comprehended the district
from Syene to Hierasycaminon, now Maharraka.

b. MODERN EGYPT.

If in the term Egypt we include all the countries over which the Khedive
claimed supremacy prior to the recent events in the Soodan, it is rather difficult
to determine its boundaries with the exception of the northern, which is
of course the Mediterranean. On the south its furthest limit nearly reached

the Equator, though it narrowed there almost to a point. Within its eastern
borders, which commenced on the Mediterranean at El-Areesh were included
the Peninsula of Sinai, the Gulf of Akaba , and a narrow strip of the east coast
of the Red Sea, as far as opposite Ras-Benar, from which point the boundary-line
continued down the west coast of that sea to Massowah, and on into the
Gulf of Aden to Berbera, though the Khedive's authority in this extreme
southern portion did not extend far from the coast; inland, Abyssinia and
some native tribes were independent. On the west, it was bounded by an
imaginary line from Ras-el-Kanaïs on the coast, through the Libyan Desert
to Darfoor, and thence trending in a westerly direction to the Blue Mountains.
The geographical limits of Egypt Proper, which, with the exception of
Suakin, is all that is now left to the Khedive, are the same as in the days
of the Pharaohs, and comprise the Delta and the Valley of the Nile as far as
the First Cataract, together with the Peninsula of Sinai and the Oases' of
the Libyan Desert. As of old, it is divided into two parts, Lower Egypt
and Upper Egypt; and each of these is subdivided into Provinces, with their
chief towns, as under.
LOWER EGYPT.
Province. Chief Town.
Beheyreh. Damanhoor.
Menoofeeyeh. Shibeen el-Kom.
Sharkeeyeh. Zagazig.
Dakaleeyeh. Mansoorah.
Gharbeeyeh. Tantah.
Kalioobeeyeh. Benha.
UPPER EGYPT.
Province. Chief Town.
Geezeh. Geezeh.
Benisooéf. Benisooéf.
Fayoom. Medeenet el-Fay-oom.
Minieh. Minieh.
Asyoot. Asyoot.
Girgeh. Soohág.
Keneh. Keneh.
Esneh. Esneh.
Each of these provinces has a governor called a Mudeer; and they are
subdivided again into districts, each under a Názir, or deputy-governor.
The towns of Alexandria, Cairo, Suez, Port Said, Ismailia, Rosetta. and
Damietta form separate special governments, called Mohafzas, independent of
the provinces in which they are situated.
The Soodán included a very wide area, embracing nearly all the more
recent acquisitions of territory made by the Khedive. It was divided into
the provinces of Khartoom, Kordofán, Senaar, Darfoor, Bahr el-Abiad (which
included all the region of the White Nile in the extreme south), Taka, and
Gedáref.
The total area of the vast territory included in these three parts is estimated
at one million and a half square miles, and measures 2000 miles from
N. to S., and about 1500 from E. to W., drawing a line from Berbera to
Darfoor. The whole of this territory has now ceased to belong to Egypt.
The greater part of the Soudan is in a state of anarchy. Massowah has been
taken possession of by Italy; Zeila and Berbera by England. Of all the
country south of Wady Halfa, Suakin alone remains in the possession of
Egypt, which is again what it was of old, nothing more than the Valley of
the Nile, from the Mediterranean to Assooán, a tract of country containing
about 10,000 square miles of cultivable land (of which about 8500 square
miles are actually under tillage), just about half the size of Ireland.
More than half this land is in the Delta, which is 160 miles broad at its
Mediterranean base, but narrows to about 10 miles at its head below Cairo.

From this point to Assooán the alluvial soil, called by the Arabs Er-Reef,
nowhere extends to a greater width, and is indeed generally much narrower,
except at the quasi-oasis of the Fayoom, on the left bank of the river,
which measures about thirty miles from N. to S., and forty from E. to W.
The total length from the sea to the First Cataract is, in a straight line, 550
miles.
Of geographical features Egypt may be said to possess but one, its river:
for the hills which border the Nile's course on either side from Cairo to
Wady Halfa, branching out on the E. from Keneh to Kosseir, and on the W.
from Wady Halfa to the Great Oasis, never reach any great height; and the
lakes, with the exception of the Bitter Lakes, which must be considered as
artificial, and the Birket el-Korn, in the Fayoom, are nothing but lagoons, of
which the most considerable are Mareotis, Etko, Bourlos, and Menzaleh.
At the same time no geographical notice of Egypt, however slight, would
be complete without a mention of the Oases. These are five in number, and
are situated in the Libyan Desert several days' journey W. of the Nile. The
most northern is Seewah, the famed oasis of Jupiter Ammon; next comes the
Little Oasis, the Oasis Parva of antiquity, now called Wahat el-Bahreeyeh;
then the oases of Faráfreh and Dakhleh; and further to the S., the Great Oasis,
the Oasis Major of the Romans, now called the Wahat el-Khárgeh. There are
besides one or two smaller ones. The title given by the ancients to these
oases, of “islands of the blest” (), is somewhat misleading, as
they do not spring up from the surrounding desolation, but are depressions in
the lofty desert table-land, which rises above them in steep limestone cliffs.
Nor is the whole of their area cultivable soil, all being intersected by passes
of desert. They owe their existence and their fertility to the copiousness of
the springs with which they abound, and which are supposed to be connected
by subterranean channels with the Nile.
The following are some of the common Arab appellations of towns, &c.:—
The large, or market, towns have the title of Bender. Medeeneh is a
“capital,” and is applied to Cairo, and the capital of the Fayoom. Markaz is
an administrative division of a Province. Beled is the usual appellation of a
“town;” whence Ibn beled, “son of a town,” or “townsman.” Nahieh corresponds to a French “commune;” it may contain two or three villages.
Kafr is a village independent of the Nahieh; Nezleh, a village founded by the
people of another place, as Nezlet el-Fent. Minieh (corrupted into Mit,
particularly in the Delta) is also applied to villages colonised from other
places. Beni, “the sons,” is given to those founded by a tribe, or family, as
Beni Amrán, “the sons of Amran,” and then many villages in the district are
often included under the same name. Zówyeh is a hamlet having a mosque.
Kasr is a “palace,” or any large building. Boorg is a “tower” (like the
Greek ); and it is even applied to the pigeon-houses built in that
form. Sáhil
, a level spot, or opening in the bank, where the river is accessible
from the plain. Merseh, an anchoring-place, or harbour. Dayr is a “convent,”
and frequently points out a Christian village. Kom is a “mound,”
and indicates the site of an ancient town; and Tel is commonly used in the
Delta in the same sense. Kharáb and Kooffree are applied to “ruins.”
Beerbek (which is taken from the Coptic) signifies a “temple.” Wády is
“a valley;” Gebel, “a mountain;” and Birkeh, “a lake,” or “a reach” in
the Nile. The W. bank of the river is called ghárbee and the E. bank
shúrgee, and the common expressions for N. and S. are báhree, “seawards,”
and gúblee, “mountainwards.”

c. THE NILE.

The Nile (Greek , Latin Nilus. Arabic Neel) is supposed to derive its
name from the Semitic word Nahar or Nahal, “river;” and it certainly is

emphatically the river of the Old World. The Amazon of the New World
alone surpasses it in length, so far as that length is as yet known; but no
river, in either hemisphere, can in any degree equal it in historical and
geographical interest. By the ancient Egyptians it was honoured as a
divinity to whom their land was indebted for its very existence, Egypt being
most truly, as Herodotus puts it, “the gift of the Nile.” Its connection with
the most important events of ancient history, and the stupendous monuments
which still bear witness to its former wealth and civilization, render it an
object of the greatest interest to the antiquary and the student of history;
while the discovery of its source has been a problem which down to the
present day has never ceased to excite the curiosity and stimulate the zeal of
geographers and travellers. The words of Tibullus:
“Nile pater, quânam te possum dicere causâ,
Aut quibus in terris, occuluisse caput?”
have not received a complete answer even now, though the proverb “caput
Nili quærere” does not quite convey the idea of a hopeless enterprise that it
once did.
The latest discoverers place the Sources of the Nile in the Victoria Nyanza,
but it still remains to be proved that it does not flow into that lake
from some yet more distant source S. of the equator. From the Victoria
Nyanza it flows into the Albert Nyanza, and issues thence in a series of
rapids under the name of the Bahr el-Gebel. Passing Gondokoro near 5° N.
lat., it is joined near 9° N. lat. by the waters of the Bahr el-Ghazál (Gazelle
River) and the Sobát; from which points to Khartoom it is known as the Bahr
el-Abiad
(White River) or White Nile, a name which may be derived either
from the whitish clay which it holds in solution, or from its contrast with
the Bahr el-Azrek (Blue River) or Blue Nile, which unites with it at Khartoom.
The length of its course to this point of junction is about 1500 miles.
The Bahr el-Azrek or Blue Nile, so called from the dark colour of
its waters, rises in the mountains of Abyssinia, and is joined by many
important tributaries before reaching Khartoom. At its point of confluence
with the White Nile it constitutes, under ordinary circumstances, but one-third
of the volume of water which henceforth flows on under the name
of the Babr en-Neel, but in the spring and summer this amount is
considerably increased. It is then swollen with the rains that have fallen in
the Abyssinian mountains, and sweeps along in an overflowing turbid stream,
thick with the fertilising mud from which it derives its name, and the
deposits of which have formed and still continue to maintain the land of
Egypt.
From Khartoom the Nile flows in one undivided stream, and fed only by
one affluent, the Atbara, to the sea, a distance of more than 1800 miles.
Nowhere is the cultivable land (except in the Fayoom and the Delta) more
than 10 miles broad, and in many places there is nothing but a strip of sand
between it and the hills which on either side flank the whole length of its
course as far as Cairo. Through these hills it has occasionally to force its way
in a series of falls, to which the name of cataract has been given, though
they bear no analogy with such cataracts as Niagara, being in fact merely
rapids. There are six of these cataracts, besides some smaller falls, between
Khartoom and Assooán. That at Assooán is known as the First Cataract.
The Nile now enters Egypt Proper and continues, at an average rate of
about 3 miles an hour, increased to 4 1/2 at the height of the inundation, a
quiet winding course varying in breadth from 350 yards at Silsilis to 3/4 mile
just above Cairo. So far its course is the same as in old times, but a considerable
change now takes place; for whereas formerly it discharged itself
into the sea by seven Mouths, at the present day these are reduced to
two. The point of separation, which constitutes the apex of the Delta, has

remained about the same. Its ancient name appears to have been Cercasorus,
the modern representative of which may be placed at a point opposite Shoobra.
Here the river anciently divided into three branches, the Pelusiac running E.,
the Canopic running W., and the Sebennytic which flowed between these two,
continuing indeed the general northward direction hitherto taken by the Nile,
and piercing the Delta through the centre. From this Sebennytic branch two
others were derived, the Tanitic and the Mendesian, both of which emptied
themselves between it and the Pelusian branch. The lower parts of the
remaining two branches, the Bolbitime and the Phatmetic, were artificial, and
were constructed probably when the other outlets began to dry up. It is by
these two mouths that the river at the present day finds its outlet. At the
point of bifurcation the general direction of the two streams is probably that of
the old Pelusian and Canopic branches, but they gradually quit the extreme
E. and W. course, and continue more in the centre of the Delta, the one to
Damietta, and the other to Rosetta, from which places they derive their
modern appellations.
The annual Inundations, which not only water the country, but supply it
with the fertilising deposit on which its very existence depends, are the result
of the rains falling in the mountains amongst which the Blue Nile has its
source, and in Central Africa along the course of the White Nile. Although
the rise of the river in the S. begins in April, its effects are not felt in Egypt
until June. The inundation continues about 3 months, and reaches its highest
point at the end of September, though very often there is a sudden final rise
in October. It then steadily subsides, and by the end of January the country
it has covered begins to dry up. From that time the river flows within its
natural limits, sinking gradually lower and lower, till the period of the next
rise. On the height of the inundations depends the prosperity of the country
for the ensuing year. Too great a rise involves a destruction of dykes and a
loss of life and property. A deficiency leaves large tracts unmoistened and
unfertilised, and the canals not sufficiently filled to supply water for irrigation
during the dry season. Great improvements have been introduced in the
system of irrigation in Egypt during the last few years, by Colonel Sir
Colin Scott Moncrieff, K.C.M.G., R.E., and his able staff of assistants, who
have been able to add considerably to the cultivable area of Egypt.
The importance, therefore, of watching the rise of the river and regulating
it by means of dykes, sluices and canals, has always been recognised. At the
present day the progress of the inundation is telegraphed from Wady Halfa,
just as in old times messages were sent from Assooán, and afterwards from
Semneh, the southernmost point of the kingdom in the days of Amenemhat
III. Several inscriptions at Semneh record the height of the Nile at different
times during the reign of this king, to whom Egypt was indebted for the Lake
Mœris, and many other important irrigation works. From them it would
appear that the highest recorded rise was 27 ft. 3 in. above any inundation of
the present day (see p. 546), The height of the inundation varies in different
parts of Egypt. At Cairo a good average is about 26 feet.
The mode of irrigation is essentially different in Upper and Lower Egypt.
In the former, the country on each side of the river is divided into basins
varying in area from 10,000 to 50,000 acres. These basins are filled by the
Nile in the time of the inundation, which is afterwards allowed to flow off,
leaving a deposit of Nile mud on the surface of the land. In Lower Egypt,
on the contrary, the water is distributed by an elaborate system of canals.

10. GEOLOGY.

But for the mud deposited by the Nile, Egypt would be nothing but sand
and rock. This deposit varies in thickness, but its average depth may be taken
at about 30 ft. In many places during the low Nile the perpendicular side

of its banks are bared to this depth, and the strata can be seen, consisting of
layers of different coloured mud, with thin streaks of intervening sand. At
the farthest point on either side of the valley reached by the inundation, it
only however amounts to a few inches; and on the Delta the deposit, being
more widely spread, is also thinner. Whether, or to what extent, any increase
in the average depth of this soil has taken place is a matter of doubt, no
calculations that have been made seeming to rest on sufficient data. At the
same time there seems to be very little doubt that the bed of the river and the
valley on both sides are slowly rising. The deposit of the Nile when dry
resembles pottery, owing to the silica it contains; indeed, vessels of various
kinds are made out of it. Its composition slightly varies, owing to the greater
or less amount of sand it may contain. Regnault gives it as follows:
11.0 water, 9.0 carbon, 6.0 oxide of iron, 4.0 silica, 4.0 carbonate of magnesia,
18.0 carbonate of lime, 48.0 alumen.
Bordering, however, this alluvial soil, which everywhere presents the same
characteristics, are ranges of hills which present much more interesting
geological features. At Cairo, and southwards thence to between Edfoo and
Hagar Silsilis, these hills on either side of the river are formed of nummulite
or magnesian limestone—a hard white stone full of fossils. Beyond Edfoo
this limestone is replaced by what is known as “Nubian” sandstone. Through
this at Assooán there crop up large masses of primitive granite of different
colours, among which the most noticeable is the red variety, called from the
old name of Assooán—Syene—”Syenite.” South of Philæ the sandstone
again predominates, with here and there granite outbursts.
The deserts on both sides of the river present the same features on the
hills that immediately border it. The northern part of the Libyan Desert is
a monotonous table-land of nummulite limestone diversified by sandhills, and
hollowed here and there, so as to form deep depressions, such as the Oases
and the Natron Lakes. Further south comes the Nubian sandstone. This
sandstone also occurs in the southern part of the Arabian Desert, but is
interrupted by a range of primitive mountains, which, beginning in the interior
of the desert at about latitude 28°40', continues in a southerly direction,
and, increasing in breadth as it advances, branches off westward, and touches
the Nile, as mentioned above, at Assooán. Various granites, porphyry,
serpentines, breccia verde, slates, and other crystalline rocks, compose these
mountains, which rise to a very considerable height; one of them, Gebel
Gháreb, being 6000 ft. above the sea. The same formation occurs again on
the other side of the Red Sea in the Peninsula of Mount Sinai (see p. 336).
The northern part of the Arabian Desert, though, like the Libyan, composed
of limestone, is far less mountainous in character, being broken up into ravines
and precipices, and showing here and there signs of vegetation, especially in
the N. part, where there are a number of springs. Among the different formations
of this limestone district are alabaster and gypsum.
In the neighbourhood of Cairo there are several variations in the nature of
the strata, such as the Gebel Ahmar, “Red Mountain” (see p. 221), composed
of a siliceous red gritstone, and the Gebel Khashab, or so-called “Petrified
Forest” (see p. 221), a tract in the limestone desert covered with large and
small fragments of fossil wood. The whole of the limestone rock is very rich in
fossils, and this is especially the case at Gebels Mokattam, Toora, and Masarah
close to Cairo. Innumerable varieties of petrified shell-fish are to be found in
it, the most abundant being the kind of snail from which the stone, which is
one of the Eocene or earliest deposits of the tertiary period, takes its name of
“nummulite.” Along the Isthmus of Suez the limestone occasionally crops
up through the surface of gypsum and salt which covers the desert sand. At
Shaloof, for example, on the (see p. 300), a considerable amount
of this rock was found containing fossil remains of various marine and

amphibious mammalia. The stone in the neighbourhood of Alexandria is a
limestone of more recent formation, the character of which can be best seen
in the quarries at Mex.
Of the different varieties of stone to be found in their country the Egyptians
neglected none. From the quarries of Toora and Masarah came the limestone
blocks of which the Pyramids are constructed. The great temples of the
Thebaid were built of sandstone from the gigantic quarries at Silsilis. Obelisks,
statues, and even whole sanctuaries, were hewn out of the granite rocks at
Assooán. And the various marbles in the Arabian desert were all at some
time or another laid under contribution. A little quarrying is still done at
Toora for buildings at Cairo, and the quays of the new harbour of Alexandria
are made of stone from Mex, but elsewhere no modern tool has obliterated the
trace of the old Egyptian labourer and his method of working.

11. PRODUCTS.

a. PLANTS—VEGETATION.

The Egyptian Flora consist of about 1300 specimens, of which indigenous
plants constitute the largest proportion, few countries having so small a number
of introduced plants as Egypt. The desert species alone, all of which are
indigenous, number nearly 250. Almost all the ordinary productions of the
present day appear to have been known to and cultivated by the ancient
Egyptians.
Among the principal Crops are:
Wheat(kumh), barley (shayeer), maize(doora shámee, i.e. Syrian), the ordinary
Holchus Sorghum in two or three varieties (doora beledee, doora seyfeh), millet
(dokhn), rice (rooz, grown only in the Delta, and probably not known to the
ancients), sugar-cane (kasab es-sukkar), beans (fool), lentils (ads, or addus),
vetches or chick-peas (hummus), lupins (termus), peas (bisilleh), a kind of
French bean (loobieh), haricot bean (labláb), onion (bussal), leek (korrát), garlic
(tóm), the Hibiscus esculentus (bámia), mallows (khobbeyzeh), lettuces (khuss),
cabbage (curumb), egg-plant (bedingán), cress (rishad), radishes (figl, a
peculiar kind), cucumbers of various kinds (abdalawee, aggoor), water-melons
(batéekh), carrots (gazar), turnips (lift), clover (berseem), the Trigonella fœnum
Græcum (helbeh), the Lathyrus sativus, a kind of flat pea (gilbán), lucerne
(berseem hedjázee), cotton (koton), hemp (teel), Indian hemp (hasheesh), flax
(keltán), saffron (kortum), sesame (simsim), indigo (neeleh), the Lausonia
spinosa et inermis (henna), madder (fooah), tobacco (dokkán), poppies
(aboonoom, “father of sleep”), castor oil plant (kkirwa), rape (selgám), mustard
(khardal), cummin (kammim), coriander (koosbera).
Besides the vegetables included in the above list, there are others grown in
small quantities in gardens specially for the use of European residents.
The rose (werd), violet (benefsig), jasmine (yasmeen), and oleander are the
principal flowers, though many other kinds are now to be found in gardens.
The lotus (beshneen) is found in the Delta during the inundation in ponds
which are dry at other times, but never in the Nile itself; it is a water-lily of
two varieties, white and blue-tinged. The papyrus is no longer a native of
Egypt, being now only found in the Anapus, near Syracuse; there are, however,
other Cyperi still growing in the Delta. A very good paper is now made from
a wild grass (hilfeh) that grows in sandy, uncultivated spots.
The principal Trees of Egypt are: —
The date-palm ( nakhl, dates, balah), orange (naig heloo, oranges,
bortugán
), lemon (leymoon), fig (teen), sycamore fig (gimmayz, the fruit
small and insipid), prickly pear (teen shók), bananas (mooz), apricot (mishmish),
peach (khookh), pomegranate (roommán), mulberry (toot), vine (enéb),

olive (zaytóon), almond (loz), acacia or mimosa Nilotica (sont, a thorny, small
leaved tree, with a small yellow flower), tamarisk (tarfa), carob or locust-tree
(kharóob), zizyphus, or rhamnus spina Christi (nebek), dom-palm (dóm),
acacia, or mimosa lebbekh (lebbekh, a thick-foliaged tree, with broad pods).
Most of these trees were known to the ancients, but some are of comparatively
recent introduction; among them the lebbekh acacia, which has proved
a most valuable acquisition, on account of the ease with which it takes root
and the rapidity of its growth. Nearly all the avenues round Cairo are
planted with this tree, which can be grown from cuttings of large branches,
and even from portions of the trunk, and will form a thick shady covering in
four or five years.
During the reign of Ismail Pasha great attention was paid to the
cultivation of plants and trees. The gardens of the Esbekeeyeh, and
the palaces of Gezeereh and Geezeh, were formed, and many new plants and
trees introduced.

b. AGRICULTURE.

The wealth and prosperity of Egypt have always depended on the cultivation
of the soil. Agriculture has consequently been one of the principal cares
of its inhabitants from the earliest times. It was no doubt the necessity for
accurately knowing the time of the rise of the Nile and when to sow, reap,
and carry on the other operations of husbandry, that caused the ancient
Egyptians to take such trouble to arrive at a fixed year. Originally the year
in all probability consisted of 12 lunar months; it was then changed to 12
solar months, of 30 days each, and 5 days added at the end of the last month
to ensure the return of the seasons at fixed periods. As, however, it soon
became apparent that some deficiency still existed, a quarter of a day was
added to each year, or rather one day to every four years, as in our leap year.
When, however, these changes were introduced is not clear, though it is
doubtful if a fixed year came into use before 27 B.C., when the calendar, was
finally reformed by Augustus.
The year was divided by the ancient Egyptians into 3 seasons of 4 months
each:—the Inundation, corresponding with the months of July, August,
September, and October; the Winter, with the months of November, December,
January, and February; and the Summer, with the months of March, April,
May, and June. These divisions are still retained. The Inundation, or, as it
may be called, the Autumn Season (ed'Demeereh), begins with the rise of the
Nile; and though less varied in its agricultural operations than the other
seasons, owing to the land being to a great extent under water, is of considerable
importance, as during it the maize (doora shámee) and millet (doorabeledee) crops are sown and harvested.
The Winter Season (es Shitáwee) is the most important of all, especially in
Upper Egypt, the principal crops raised being wheat, barley, clover, lentils,
beans, peas, vetches, &c. As soon as everithe inundation retires, these crops
are sown, and the harvest takes place from four to seven months after,
according to the nature of the crop; wheat and barley being seven months in
the ground, and the other crops four.
The Summer Season (es Seyfee) produces little of any great value in Upper
Egypt, with the exception of millet, chiefly in Nubia, and cucumbers and
melons, Sugar-cane, however, is sown in March and April, though it is not
cut till October for eating, and not till January and February for making into
sugar. But in the Delta this is an important time, rice, cotton, and indigo
being sown in March, April, and May. These crops require rather longer to
come to maturity than the winter ones, and are not harvested, as a rule, till
October, November, and even December. Tobacco is also grown in the
summer. Speaking generally, three crops are gathered on good land in Lower
Egypt, and two crops in Upper Egypt.
The cultivable land in Upper Egypt is divided into the “rei,” lands, which
are naturally watered by the inundation, and require no irrigation to ripen
the crops, and the “sharákee” lands, which are too high for the inundation to
reach, and must consequently be artificially irrigated. On some of the
sharákee lands as many as three crops are sometimes raised in the course of
the year. The rei lands, as a rule, only yield one crop—that of the winter
season; but in some parts they also can be irrigated, and made to yield a
a second or even third corp.
Irrigation has always been an important factor in the system of Egyptian
agriculture. Canals, dykes, and artificial lakes were constructed and kept up
with the greatest care in the old days of power and prosperity; but under the
Byzantine emperors and during the supremacy of the Memlooks they were
neglected, and as a result the productiveness of the country suffered considerably.
A great change for the better was effected by Mohamed Ali; Ismail
Pasha carried on the good work, and considerably increased the resources of
the country, by the various irrigation works constructed during his reign, for
the purpose of storing the waters of the inundation, and gradually distributing
them over the land. Since the English occupation, further great improvements
have been made, and others are now in progress, a sum of 1,000,000l.
supplied out of the guranteed loan of 1885 having been appropriated for the
Public Works Department.
The direct process of irrigating the land from the river and the canals is
carried on in the same way as of old, with the one addition of steam pumps,
which have been introduced in some parts of Upper Egypt where the banks of
the river are very high and a large quantity of water is required, as, for
instance, for the sugar-cane plantations. The most common machine in use is
the shadoóf, which consists of two posts, about 5 ft. in height and 3 apart,
joined at the top by a horizontal bar, across which is slung a branch of a tree,
having at one end a weight composed of mud, and at the other, suspended to
it by two palm-sticks, a bucket made of basket-work or matting, or of a
hoop with woollen stuff or leather. This is worked by one man, who is able
with it to throw up water to a height of about 8 ft. In the southern parts of
Upper Egypt, when the river is very low, four or five shadoófs, one above
another, are required to raise the water to the level of the land. There are
some shadoófs with two levers, worked of course by two men. This method of
raising water is a very laborious one. The other machine in constant use is
the sakeeyeh, a large vertical wheel, sometimes as much as 30 ft. in diameter,
with earthen pots attached to its circumference by cords, another small vertical
wheel with cogs fixed to the same axis, and a large horizontal cogged wheel,
which, turned by one or two buffaloes, cows, or other animals, sets the other
two wheels in motion, and raises the water in the pots. This machine is very
much employed in the irrigation of gardens. In Nubia they are very numerous,
and are often placed two or three deep. Being seldom or never greased,
the noise made by them is most disagreeable, varying from a dull groan to a
shrill shriek, as the wood is new or old. In the Delta, where it is only necessary
to raise the water a few feet, a modification of the sakeeyeh is used, called
a tabóot, which is a very light, easily-moved wheel, with hollow fellies
instead of pots. The water-wheels in the Fayoom are often so contrived as to
admit of being turned by the weight of the water.
The water, when raised, is distributed by dividing the land into small
squares, separated from each other by ridges of earth a foot or even less
in height, and by furrows. The water then flows from the machine along
a gutter, whence it is admitted into one furrow after another; these, owing to
the softness and plasticity of the river mud, being easily opened or closed with
the foot.
The fertilising properties of the Nile mud, renewed every year, answer, as a
rule, all the purposes of manure; but the exhausting nature of some of the

crops, the cultivation of which has considerably increased, such as sugar-cane
and cotton, renders some artificial dressing necessary. The manures most
usually employed are pigeons' dung, these birds being kept in enormous numbers
for this purpose, and the nitrous soil to be obtained from the mounds that
cover the sites of ancient towns.
The Agricultural Implements of the Egyptians are of a very rude and simple
kind, and differ very little, if at all, from those which, as we know from the
Scriptures, have been in use from the earliest times. The plough (mihrát)
consists of a pole, a share, and a handle, all of wood, the share being generally
tipped with iron. It is drawn by one or two animals—buffalo, ox, camel, or
donkey, as the case may be, attached to the pole by a yoke. Being very light,
it does little more than scratch the surface of the soil. In some parts, especially
where the sugar-cane is cultivated, steam-ploughs are now used. The
functions of a harrow are discharged by a machine called khon fud, “hedgehog,”
a roller studded with iron spikes. All digging and weeding is done with a
wooden hoe (migrafeh). Sowing is done by the hand, the seed being placed in
a basket slung from the left shoulder of the sower, who scatters it broadcast
with his right hand; it is then sometimes pressed in with a roller, or trodden
in by oxen. Wheat is cut down close to the ground with a sickle, but barley
and doora are plucked up by the roots. The threshing-floor is a level area
near the harvested field, in the centre of which the sheaves are heaped; they
are then scattered over the surrounding space, and the threshing process is
performed by a machine called a noreg, a wooden frame with three cross-bars
or axletrees, to which are attached small iron wheels or thin circular plates,
four each to the foremost and hindmost axle, and three to the centre one. On
the framework is fixed a chair, in which sits the driver, whose weight gives
additional effect to the machine, which is drawn by two oxen or some other
animals, round and round the central heap, the sharp wheels not only bruising
out the corn, but at the same time breaking up the straw. The winnowing is
done, first by throwing the mixed grain and straw about in the wind, and then
passing the grain through a sieve.

12. NATURAL HISTORY.—SHOOTING.

Domestic Animals.—The principal quadrupeds are: The Camel (gemel, trotting
dromedary, hegeen); the Horse (hossán, pl. kheyl, mare, farás); the Donkey
(homár); the Mule (bughl, bughleh); the Buffalo (gamóos); the Ox ( tor , cow,
bakarah, calf, igl); the Sheep (kharoóf, nágeh', pl. ghunnum); the Goat
(mayzeh, azeh, kid, giddee); the Pig (khanzeer); the Dog (kelb); the Cat
(kut). And among birds the principal are: The Turkey (farkhah roomee); the
Goose (wiz); the Chicken (hen, farkhah, cock, deek); the Pigeon (hammám).
Of these it is curious to remark that neither the camel, the buffalo, the sheep,
nor the chicken are found among the old sculptures; the horse was probably
introduced by the Shepherd Kings. The camel and the ass are the most
characteristic animals of Egypt, and they may certainly be said to bear the
burden and heat of the day in the way of work. The heavy baggage camel
is the one most commonly seen. The ass is of many kinds, from the magnificent
animal of 14 hands, worth from 100l. to 200l. down to the wretched
little drudge whose miserable carcase seems only fit for the vultures and the
jackals. Horses are comparatively not numerous, and the possession of them
is confined principally to rich people and Europeans. The old native Egyptian
breed is nearly extinct, but endeavours have been made to renew the stock. The
buffalo is a most useful animal, and has to a great extent taken the place of
the ox since the last two or three outbreaks of murrian. The sheep are very
rolific, Inmbing as a rule twice in the year; the flesh is good. The wool
varies according to the kind; the fat-tailed species are the most esteemed. Pigs

are kept only by Europeans. The native, or pariah, dog is generally considered
unclean by the natives, and a wretched miserable beast he is to look
at, but he performs, with the hawks, the useful duty of a scavenger; and
when taken care of as a puppy, grows up a fine animal, but is very difficult to
domesticate. There is a breed of big, rough-haired black dogs to be found at
Erment, and one or two villages near Thebes, that are celebrated for their
fierceness and courage, and make good watch dogs. The turkeys of Upper
Egypt are famed for their large size; and the chickens are equally remarkable
for their smallness.
The breeding and rearing of domestic animals is not carried on at the
present day to the extent that it appears to have been by the ancient
Egyptians. To judge from the sculptured and written records, they devoted
almost as much attention to pastoral as to agricultural pursuits; and though
the herdsmen and shepherds appear to have been held in disrepute, partly
owing perhaps to a remembrance of what the country had suffered during the
domination of the Hyksos, a shepherd race, no such feeling extended to those
who owned and bred flocks and herds. Nor did the old Egyptians confine
themselves to the rearing of the animals already mentioned, but devoted their
attention as well to the training and herding of the gazelle, the oryx, the
ibex, and others of the antelope tribe, and also to the geese and wild fowl of
the Nile.
Wild Animals. — There are but few wild animals in Egypt. Among the
principal may be named:—
The Wild Boar (haloóf), to be met with in the Delta, and on the shores of
the Birket el-Korn in the Fayoom. The Hyæna (dhabá), found on moonlight
nights in the outskirts of the desert, and among extensive ruins, such as
Karnak. The Gazelle (ghazála), often to be met with in parts where the
desert approaches the Nile; but great patience and watching are required to
get within shot. The Antelope (bakkar el wahsh) is said to exist in the region
of the Natron Lakes and the Oases. The Moufflon or Maned Sheep (kebsh elgebel)
is also said to be found in the same parts. The Ibex or “Wild Goat”
(beden) frequents the mountains between the Nile and the Red Sea, and also
those of the Sinaitic Peninsula, but is very shy and difficult of approach.
The Fox (aboo hosein) may often be put out of a patch of standing corn. The
Jackal (táleb) haunts quarries, cliffs, and rubbish heaps. The Wolf (deeb) is
rare. A species of Lynx or Wild Cat (tifal) is sometimes found in marshy
places in the Delta. The curious little Fennec Fox (fenek) lives in burrows in
the desert sand. The Ichneumon (nims) is found in gardens, and often tame.
The Desert Hare (arneb) is found in great numbers in some places in the
Fayoom, and now and then in the desert up the Nile. The Coney (webur
jutal
), the Dormouse (fár), and the Jerboa occur in the Sinaitic Desert. Bats
(watwat) are very common, and are found in large numbers among the ruins.
All the above belong to Egypt Proper. Of course the number might be
very largely increased if those to be found in the regious bordering on the
White and Blue Nile, the Soodán, &c, were included.
Of amphibious animals, the Crocodile (timsáh) is the only monster that the
ordinary Nile traveller will see. Careful inspection may discover a specimen
under the rocks of Gebel Aboo Faydah, and one may sometimes be found on
the large sandbank near the landing-place for Keneh; but it is very seldom
now that they are seen north of the First Cataract. In Nubia they are more
frequently met with, and on the sandbanks near Derr and Ibreem as many as
10 or 15 are sometimes basking in the sun together. It is by no means easy
to get a shot at them, as they are very shy, and slip into the water on the
slightest alarm. Of course any one devoting two or three days to waiting in
a hole in the sand, near where they are in the habit of coming up, will be

pretty certain to get a shot at one, but he must hit the eye, or the side of the
neck, to have much chance of killing. They are exceedingly tenacious of
life, and even when mortally wounded generally manage to slip into the
water. There is a kind of Lizard (wárran) sometimes found close to the
river-side: the traveller will probably have stuffed ones offered him as
“young crocodiles.”
Birds.—Besides being the home of a large number of species, the Nile
valley is one of the greatest bird-thoroughfares in the world, vast numbers
passing down it to colder climates in spring and returning in the autumn.
Some 350 species of birds are already known in Egypt and Nubia.
Land Birds.—Amongst these, birds of prey hold a prominent place. There
are many kinds of Eagles, of which the Spotted Eagle (Aquila nævia) and
the Osprey (Pandion Haliaëtus) are amongst those most frequently seen on
the Nile S. of Cairo; whilst the Golden (A. fulva) and the Imperial (A.
imperialis
) occur in the Delta. The commonest Vulture is the black and
white Egyptian species (Neophron percnopterus, Arab. rákham), but its larger
congeners, the Griffon (Gyps fulvus) and the Black Vulture (Vultur monachus),
are frequently met with. Of the Kites, which are very numerous, there ae
at least two kinds—the Parasitic (Milvus Ægyptius, Arab. hedayeh), easily
distinguished by its yellow beak, and the Black Kite (M. migrans). Falcous
and Hawks are exceedingly plentiful and of many kinds. Amongst them may
be mentioned the Lanner (Falco lannarius), Peregrine (F. peregrinus), Merlin
(F. Æsalon), and Kestrel (F. tinnunculus): this last is the commonest hawk
in Egypt. The Hobby (F. surbuteo) is sometimes met with at the cliffs of
Aboo Faydah and elsewhere. The large falcon (Arab. saker) which the Arabs
train to hunt the Gazelle, is somewhat rare. The Long-legged Buzzard
(Buteo ferox) is plentifully distributed throughout Egypt and Nubia. Of
Owls there are several species, of which the small Carine meridionalis and
the Barn Owl (Aluco flammea) are the most abundant, being often seen in the
ruined temples as well as amongst rocks or thick-foliaged trees. The Egyptian
Eagle Owl (Bubo ascalaphus, Arab. boom) and the Long-eared Owl (Asio
otus
) are not so frequently met with.
Many kinds of Plover are found in Egypt: of these the most plentiful is
the Spurwing (Hoplopterus spinosus, Arab. zikzak), supposed to be the
'trochilus' mentioned by Herodotus, as devouring the parasites which cover
the inside of the crocodile's mouth (Herod. B. ii. c. 68). The Blackheaded
Plover (Pluvianus Ægyptius) is a bird of beautiful plumage censtantly
to be seen on the banks of the river, especially in Upper Egypt. The Golden
Plover (Charadrius pluvialis) and the White-tailed Plover (Chettusia Villotæi)
are met with chiefly in the Delta. The Hoopoe (Arab. hudhud), with its fine
crest and strongly-marked plumage, is to be seen in every village—quite fearless
of man. Amongst Kingfishers the most abundant is the black and white
species (Ceryle rudis), which may be constantly seen hovering over the water
or darting down to seize its prey. The common Kingfisher (Alcedo ispida)
and the smaller variety (A. Bengalensis) are to be met with in the Delta, and
occasionally higher up the Nile.
In the early spring many species of brightly-plumaged birds move northwards
into Nubia and Egypt. Amongst these may be mentioned the Sunbird
(Nectarina metallica), Roller (Coracias garrula), Golden Oriole (Oriolus
galbula
), and the blue-cheeked Bee-eater (Merops Ægyptius). A smaller
species of Bee-eater (Merops viridis) remains in Egypt throughout the year,
and is plentiful, but during the winter is seldom found N. of Golosaneh.
The principal land-birds for the Sportsman are Sand Grouse, Pigeons, Quail,
and Snipe. Sand-grouse (Pterocles exustus or guttatus, Arab. gattah) are
often to be found in large numbers near the edge of the desert, and in barren
sandy tracts covered with hilfeh grass: they may sometimes be seen soon after

sunrise and just before sunset coming in flocks to the river to drink. Hey's
Partridge (Arab. hágel) and the Red-legged Partridge are found in the desert
E. of the Nile and in the Sinaitic Peninsula. Pigeons (hammám) should
never be shot at in a village, and care should always be taken not to
shoot tame ones anywhere; they may easily be distinguished from the quasiwild
ones which are kept in the pigeon-towers for the sake of the manure they
afford, and which the natives offer no objection to the shooting of in moderation
away from the village. Quails (Coturnix communis, Arab. summán) are very
abundant; they reach Egypt on their way north in the winter, and the traveller
will probably first meet with them in any numbers near Kom Ombo in January
or February; they then go gradually down the river, and reach the neighbourhood
of Cairo about the middle of March. They afford most capital sport, and
are first-rate eating, as soon as they have settled down a bit and bad time to
get fat on the ripe corn. Alternate patches of corn and green stuff, such as
berseem, clover, húmmus, a kind of vetch, meláneh, chick-pea, and ads, lentils,
are their favourite resort. Snipe are rarely met with above Cairo, but there are
places in the Delta where they are very numerous in the winter. Atfeh is an
especially good place, and there are some capital marshes near Benha; but the
traveller will have some difficulty in finding out the best snipe preserves unless
he happens to know some resident in the country well up in these matters.
The painted snipe is often found in the Delta.
Aquatic Birds.—These are very numerous and varied in kind. Three
species of Pelican are known. The large Dalmatian Pelican (P. crispus), which
measures six feet from the tip of the beak to the tail, is perhaps the kind
most frequently met with. These may be seen, like ships riding at anchor,
amongst the smaller birds. They are plentiful near Golosaneh, in the Fayoom,
and especially in the brackish water lakes of Egypt. Storks, Cranes, Herons,
Spoonbills, and other Waders are to be seen in great numbers during the
winter months. The Sacred Ibis (I. Æthiopica) is common in the Soodán
and is said to breed at Wady Halfah, but is never found in Egypt. The white
bird by some miscalled the Ibis, and by others the Paddy bird, so commonly
seen in the fields of Lower Egypt and the constant friend and companion of
the buffalo, is the Buff-backed Heron (Ardeolata russata). The Glossy Ibis
(I. falcinellus) is occasionally found. The Flamingo (Phœnicopterus antiquorum,
Arab. gemel el-bahr or basharoos) is abundant on the lakes of Lower
Egypt, but is seldom seen on the Nile itself. The curious Scissor-beak
(Rhynchops flavirostris) is often seen in the summer. Vast numbers of geese
are to be seen in winter, the most common being the White-fronted Goose
(Anser albifrons)., “When on the wing, they fly in a wedge-shaped flock,
and frequently utter a loud harsh cry, which may be heard at a considerable
distance. They are generally on the move just before sunrise and sunset; and
as they are very regular, taking the same line and feeding at the same spot
each day, they may most readily be obtained by lying in wait for them, If
once fired at the flock generally leaves the neighbourhood altogether. “—Captain
Shelley
.
The handsome Egyptian Goose (Chenalopex Ægyptiacus), though evenly
distributed throughout Egypt and Nubia, is by no means so common as the
species last mentioned. It is a very wary bird and hard to approach. It
seems to have been domesticated from the earliest times; the oldest picture
in the world, found in a tomb of the IIIrd Dynasty, representing some of these
geese. Of Wild Duck and Teal there are some eight or ten varieties, some
very common and others, such as the Ruddy Sheldrake, the Pintail, the
Gargancy, &c., more rarely found. There is very good duck shooting on Lake
Menzalch, but the birds are sometimes difficult to approach.
During the months of November, December, January, and February,
immense numbers of birds are to be seen on the sandbanks of the river, and
in some small lakes and canals inland. But, except under certain favourable
circumstances, it is very difficult to get within shot of them. To do so
with any chance of success requires a small boat, in which to sail up to er
float down upon them. The larger birds offer a very good mark for a light
rifle. After February the river sandbanks become comparatively deserted,
but rare birds are often met with in the spring and summer. The best districts
both for number and variety of birds are the Fayoom, the Delta
(especially near Damietta), and that part of the Nile which lies between
Minieh and Esneh.
Reptiles.—The Crocodile, of which there are several varieties, and the Water
Lizard, have been already spoken of. There are several other kinds of Lizards.
The Chameleon (herbayeh) is very common in Nubia. The Nile Turtle
(Trionyx Niloticus) is to be found among the rocks in the First Cataract.
Frogs are numerous. Among the Snakes (tábán) are the Horned Viper
(Cerastes, Arab. nasher), the Asp of antiquity, the Hooded Snake, and the
Echis, all of which are venomous, besides other kinds which are harmless.
They are generally found in ruins and near the edge of the desert.
Insects.—The famous Scarabæus (jorán) claims the first mention, though
which of the dozen or more varieties of beetles to be found in Egypt is the
representative of the old Ateuchus sacer or Ægyptiorum must be considered
doubtful. Grasshoppers are common, and the Locust (jerád) sometimes commits
serious ravages. Butterflies are rare, but Moths and Ephemeridæ are
numerous. Scorpions are not often found, but Spiders, some of large size and
poisonous, are common. Every visitor to Egypt will have cause to lament the
numbers and pertinacity of the Fly, the Mosquito, and the Flea.
Fish.—The fish of the Nile are very numerous, but there is not one worth
eating: they are all soft and woolly, and have a strong flavour of mud. Among
the most numerous and the most commonly used for food are the Bayád, a
large fish, sometimes reaching 31/2 feet in length; the Shilbeh, with a sharp
spinous fin; the Shál, of which there are several varieties, called also Kurkar,
from a sort of grunting sound which it is supposed to emit, with a very long
dorsal fin; and the Garmoot, also a very long, large fish. All these are
Siluridæ, fish without scales. Among the scaly fish are several members of
the Perch and Carp tribe. One of the most curious fish is the Polypterus
(bisheer), a long fish covered with thick bony scales, and having no less than
16 to 18 long dorsal fins; it is not common, and is generally only caught when
the Nile is low. Other curious fish are the Oxyrhinchus (gamoor), with its
long snout ending in a very small mouth; and the Tetrodon, or Ball Fish
(fakáka), found both in the Nile and the Red Sea, and so often offered for sale
stuffed.
Hints on Shooting.—Some information on this point has been already given
in speaking of the wild animals and birds. Guns should be brought from
England; but they may be purchased or hired at Alexandria and Cairo.
There is sometimes a difficulty in getting them through the custom-house.
It is as well too to bring cartridges (unloaded) from England, though they
too, both pin and central-fire, can be bought at Alexandria and Cairo. If it
is intended to go in for snipe and quail shooting, a large number of cartridges
will be required. A few wire-cartridges with No. 1 shot will be found very
effective for the larger birds, as well as for duck at long ranges. Shot can be
bought at Alexandria, Cairo, Port Said, Suez, &c., and at towns like Asyoot
and Keneh up the river. Powder is a great source of difficulty, as the Egyptian
Government forbid its importation and sale: consequently, if the traveller
overcomes the difficulty of getting it conveyed to Egypt, he will find it seized
at the custom-house, and be obliged to apply to the consular autho ities, not

always successfully, to get it out for him; and if he trusts to purchasing it
at Alexandria or Cairo, he will find it scarce, bad, and dear, probably from
seven to ten shillings the pound. The best plan is to send out a moderate
quantity, and apply in time to the Consulate at Alexandria to get it passed.
A heavy big game-rifle is useless during the ordinary voyage in Egypt. A
common rifle with an explosive bullet is quite enough for a crocodile.
No really good wild-fowl shooting can be had without a small boat. The
native sandal, or small boat attached to the dababeeyeh, is of no use whatever;
it draws a great deal too much water, is clumsy to manage, and requires two
men to row it. A light English pair-oar gig or a dingy is the best thing:
either of these will float in the shallows, and at the same time weather the
extremely rough water which is often experienced on the Nile when the wind
is high and the current strong. It should be furnished with a lug-sail, and
spare oars and sculls should be taken, as they cannot be replaced in Egypt.
A punt and duck-gun is a method of wholesale slaughter most strongly to be
reprobated.
The traveller in Egypt is accustomed to go where he likes in pursuit of
game: ripe standing crops offer no obstacle to him, and very often the proprietor
will sometimes make no objection; but this license should not be
abused, and a request to keep off any ground should instantly be complied
with. There have been several instances lately in which Europeans have got
into difficulties with the natives, owing to not knowing the language. A
licence from the police to carry fire-arms is legally necessary, and is sometimes
asked for.
‘The Birds of Egypt,' by Captain Shelley, is a valuable companion to the
naturalist and the sportsman. Some useful information on this subject will
also be found in Smith's’ Attractions of the Nile.
Travellers who intend to collect skins should provide themselves with the
few instruments necessary, and with arsenical soap and alum, before leaving
England. Tow or cotton wool, plenty of which should be taken, can be
procured at Alexandria or Cairo. No. 12 shot will be wanted for small birds.
In sending home skins an air-tight case should be used, each skin being
wrapped separately in paper. Very small birds may be preserved whole in
cotton soaked with carbolic acid.

13. INHABITANTS.

The total Population of Egypt Proper, according to the Census of 1882, is
6,809,747, of whom 90,888 were foreigners. It was larger in ancient times.
Herodotus states that there were 20,000 populous cities in the time of Amasis;
Diodorus reckons the population at 7 millions; and Josephus places it at 71/2
millions in the reign of Vespasian. It had, however, sunk in the time of the
Memlooks to three millions. Since the accession of Mohamed Ali it has
steadily increased, and is no doubt still rising, notwithstanding the commonly
expressed opinion to the contrary.
The various elements of the motley population of Egypt may be divided
into Egyptians, who may again be subdivided into the country population
(Fellaheen), the inhabitants of the towns (Oulád el-Arab), and the wandering
tribes (Bedaween); Nubians; Abyssinians and Negroes; Turks; Levantines;
Armenians; Jews; and Europeans.
The Fellaheen are the most numerous, and the most important element,
amounting to more than three-fourths of the whole population. The Felláh (fem. Felláhah) is the representative of the conquering Arabs who came with
Amer; but these have so mingled and intermarried with the original
inhabitants, and with Abyssinians, Nubians, and others, that they present
but very slight resemblance to the original stock. Indeed in many parts of
Egypt the peasantry exhibit more likeness to the old Egyptians, as depicted

on the monuments, than to the true descendants of their Arab ancestors, the
Bedaween. They are, as a rule, a handsome well-formed race, with fine
oval faces, bright deep-set black eyes, straight thick noses, large well-formed
mouths, full lips, beautiful teeth, broad shoulders, and good-shaped limbs. It
is astonishing that such pot-shaped, perfectly proportioned men and women
should grow out of such pot-bellied, shrunken-limbed things as the children
are. The colour of the skin varies considerably,—light and tawny in the
north of Egypt, and gradually getting darker in the south. The most beautiful
tint is the deep bronze one of Upper Egypt. The fellaheen are patient,
industrious labourers, docile and intelligent when young, but crushed as they
grow old beneath the weight of unceasing toil and oppressive taxation. Their
dwellings are made of mud-bricks sometimes mixed with straw, the thatch
palm-branches or doora straw and rags. Most of them have two rooms, but
very few are two stories high. Near the roof are apertures for the admission of
light and air. The furniture consists of a few mats and some earthen vessels.
Bread made of millet or maize forms the staple of their food, together with
the common vegetables of the country, milk, cheese, eggs, and dates; meat is
seldom tasted. The ordinary meal is bread dipped in a mixture called dukkah,
composed of lentils seasoned with salt, pepper, onions, and a variety of herbs.
The two luxuries in which the fellah chiefly delights are tobacco and coffee.
The dress of the fellah needs little description, consisting at the most of a
pair of drawers, a long full shirt or gown of blue cotton or linen (eeree), or of
brown woollen stuff (zaáboot), and a white or brown felt cap (libdeh), with a
tarboosh over it, and a turban of white, red, or yellow cotton or muslin; shoes
when woru are pointed red or broad yellow morocco; in winter a brown and
white striped cloak is worn in addition. Some of the very poor classes however have nothing but the cotton shirt and felt cap; and when at work find
the cap alone sufficient. The fellaheen women when quite young are generally
models of beauty in form and limbs, and often pleasing in countenance;
the eyes especially being very beautiful. They lose their good looks, both of
shape and feature, however, at a very early age. Their dress is as simple as
the men's, consisting of a pair of white cotton or linen drawers (shintiyán); a
blue linen or cotton shirt like the men's, reaching to the feet; a face veil (burko)
of thick black crape; and a long dark blue muslin or linen veil (turbah), covering
the head and hanging down behind. In Upper Egypt most of the women
wear nothing but a large piece of dark brown woollen stuff (hulaleeyeh)
wrapped round the body, and fastened over the shoulders with a piece of the
same for a turbah. Nearly all wear trumpery brass ornaments, blacken the
edge of their eyelids with kohl, stain their finger and toe nails and the palms
of their hands with henneh, and tattoo different parts of their person.
The Inhabitants of the Towns (Oolád or Ibn el-Arab, as they are called)
differ in many respects from the peasantry, though the distinction is chiefly
noticeable as regards the Cairenes, who consider themselves, and with some
justice, the superiors, mentally and physically, of the Fellaheen. No doubt
they are a more mixed race, showing signs both of European and African
descent, the result of the constant introduction of white and black slaves.
The dress of the lower orders of townspeople, both men and women, is
much the same as that of the Fellaheen. That of the men of the middle and
higher classes consists of a pair of full drawers (libás); a shirt of linen, cotton,
silk, or muslin (kamees); a short sleeveless vest of cloth or striped silk and
cotton (sudeyreh); a long vest of striped silk and cotton (kuftán), reaching
to the ankles, and with long sleeves extending beyond the fingers, but opening
at the wrist; a girdle of silk or muslin (hezám) wound round the waist; and
over all a long cloth coat (gibbeh), or a black woollen cloak (abbayeh). On
the head is worn a small, close-fitting cotton cap (takeeyeh), and over this a
red cloth cap (tarboosh), with a tassel of blue or black silk, round which is

wound a piece of white or figured muslin, or a Cashmere shawl, thus forming
the turban. Red or yellow shoes, and sometimes socks, complete the attire.
The above is the proper native dress, but a great many of the middle and
upper classes, especially in the towns, now wear a semi-European dress; and
the Turkish tarboosh, without a turban, is worn instead of the Egyptian
tarboosh. The dress of the women consists of the shintiyán; the kamees; a
long vest (yelek) something like the kuftán, or a short one (antéree); a shawl
girdle; and a gibbeh of cloth, velvet, or silk, something like the man's, or a
jacket (saltah). The headdress is formed of a takeeyeh and tarboosh, with
muslin or crape wound round it, forming what is called a rabtah, and over
this hangs a long piece of muslin embroidered at the ends (turbah). Sewn on
the top of the turban is a round convex ornament of plain gold, or gold and
diamonds (kurs); and the hair hangs down behind in numerous braids, tied
with black silk, and with little ornaments of gold attached. Shoes of yellow
or red morocco, and ornaments of various kinds, complete the indoor dress of
women of the upper and middle classes. On going out they wear in addition
a large loose silk gown (tôb); a face-veil of muslin (burko), concealing the
whole of the face except the eyes, and reaching nearly to the feet; and over
all, from the head to the feet, a black or white silk cloak (habarah).
The Bedaween, sing. Bedawee, are the wandering Arabs living in the
desert on either side of the Nile, and in the Sinaitic Peninsula. The total
number living upon Egyptian territory is about 225,000, of whom 125,000
live in villages, or hamlets, and the remaining 100,000 live a wandering life.
The Bedaween are divided into seventy-five tribes, of which the principal are
as follows—
Tribe. Number. Province.
Owlad Ali 19,500 Beheyreh.
Guemeat 6,000 do.
Nagameh 6,000 Gharbeeyeh. Geezeh.
Hanadl 10,500 Sharkeeyeh.
Temeilah 5,000 do.
Heweitah 5,000 Kalloobeeyeh.
Harabl 9,500 Fayoom.
Samalous 5,000 do.
Fargan 5,000 Fayoom.
Fawaieh 13,000 Fayoom, Benisooef.
Do'afa 7.000 Benisooef.
Ma'azeh 5,000 Benisooef, Minieh.
Gawazi 10,000 Minieh.
Elekah 8,000 Keneh, Esneh.
Ababdeh 19,500 do. do.
Of the remaining sixty tribes, twenty-five number between 1000 and 5000,
and the remainder number less than 1000 persons each. The Bedaween in
Lower Egypt speak Arabic, as do also some of the tribes in Upper Egypt; but
the Ababdeh, who occupy the country between the Nile and the Red Sea from
Keneh southward, speak a different language, which is known as Bedy or To
Bedawi. This language, which has some resemblance to the Ancient Egyptian
is spoken also by the Bishareen, whose territory lies south of the
Ababdeh, and by the Hadendoa tribes in the vicinity of Suakin. Many of
the Ababdeh, who live near the Nile, also speak Arabic. The Ababdeh are
supposed by some authorities to be the descendants of the Blemmyes, who
formerly occupied part of Nubia. There is a resemblance between them and
the Bishareen, and a certain amount of intermarriage takes place. Until the
Soudan was abandoned, a sub-tribe of the Ababdeh was held responsible for
the safety of the road from Korosko to Berber, and the Sheikh of this tribe,
Hussein Pasha Khalifa, was the Governor of Berber when it fell into the
hands of the Mahdi.
There is a considerable difference between the nomad Bedaween and those
who live in villages. The latter have lost much of the wild character of the
desert Arab and become more civilised.
The Copts (Kubtee, Gubtee, or Ubtee, pl. Kubt) are considered to be tho
descendants of the ancient Egyptians; but they are by no means an unmixed
race. Their Arabic name may be derived from Coptos in Upper Egypt, now
Kubt or Kuft, the headquarters of the Christians till the Mohammedan conquest;

but it has probably some analogy with the Greek A . Much stress
has been laid upon their resemblance to the sculptured portraits of the ancient
Egyptians, but it is difficult to trace the likeness much more in them than in
their Muslim fellow-countrymen, except perhaps in the eyes, which are exceptionally
large and almond-shaped, and slope slightly upwards from the nose.
The Copts, too, are rather under the middle size, as were, to judge from the
mummies, the ancient Egyptians. Their dress is the same as the Muslims,
except that they often wear a black or blue turban, which the latter never do.
It should be remembered, however, that there are Muslim Copts as well as
Christian Copts, though the name is generally applied exclusively to the
native Christians of Egypt. The number of Copts has been variously estimated
from 150,000 to 500,000. In Upper Egypt there are whole villages
composed of them, and they are numerous at Cairo and in the Fayoom; there
are but few in the Delta. They are in general better educated than the rest of
their countrymen, and are extensively employed in all the public offices as
clerks, accountants, &c.
The tenets of the Coptic Church are those of the sect called Jacobites,
Eutychians, Monophysites, and Monothelites, pronounced heretical by the
Council of Chalcedon in the year 451 A.D. Their secession from the orthodox
Oriental Church was the occasion of bitter enmity between them and the
Greeks, and they gladly welcomed the Arabs, and helped to drive out their
hated fellow-Christians. The orders in the Coptic Church are the Patriarch
(Batrak), always chosen from among the monks of the convent of St. Antony
in the eastern desert, Metropolitan of the Abyssinians (Mitrán), Bishop
(Uskuf), Arch Priest (Kummoos), Priest (Kasees), Deacon (Shemmás), and
Monk (Ráhib). The convents and churches are very numerous, especially at
Cairo and Old Cairo (see pp 186, 227). The liturgy of the Coptic Church is
based upon those of St. Gregory of Nazianzen, St. Basil, and that called of
St. Mark. The Holy Communion is administered in both kinds and to children.
The priests always celebrate barefooted, a practice doubtless of great antiquity,
and recalling God's command to Moses at the Burning Bush. The services
are very long. An account of their principal festivals is given under Sect. III.
description of Cairo.
The language of the Copts of the present day is that of the rest of the
country, the Egyptian dialect of Arabic. Coptic is only used in some of
the Church prayers, and then they are repeated in Arabic for the benefit
of the hearers; indeed, the priests who use them have merely learnt them by
heart, and know hardly anything of the language. The Coptic language
began to fall into disuse after the Mohammedan conquest, and by the 15th or
16th century was quite replaced by the Arabic. It is undoubtedly one of the
oldest used by mankind, and in its original purity was that of the old
Egyptians. It underwent a great change after the conquest of Alexander
and the spread of the Greek language, and especially after the introduction
of Christianity into Egypt. It then began to be written from left to right,
contrary to the ancient and Oriental manner, and in a character mostly
adapted from the Greek, from which the Copts also borrowed many words
and expressions. But notwithstanding the modification it has undergone, it
is still the language written on the monumental walls of old Egypt, and to it
the world is indebted for the key by which the hieroglyphics have been
interpreted. Coptic MSS. are rarely written on vellum, but on charta bombycina,
or cotton paper. A few exist on papyrus.
The Nubians may be considered as the inhabitants of the country between
the First Cataract and Khartoom; Nubia being the title under which all that
district is known to us, just as the Greeks called it Ethiopia. By the Arabs
the Nubians are called Barábra, sing. Berberee, a name applied much in the
same sense as “Barbaroi” by the Greeks.
Owing to the extreme poverty of the greater part of their own country, great

numbers of Nubians come to Egypt, where they are employed in the towns as
doorkeepers (bowáb), grooms (seiyis), coachmen (arabugee), house-servants
(khaddám) and cooks (tabákh), each of these classes being constituted as a
guild with its own sheykh, who is responsible for the character of the members.
They are preferred to Egyptian servants as being more honest and truthful,
and generally cleaner, but in mental capacity they are inferior. They are
devotedly attached to their country and their countrymen. Brave and independent
in character, they differ also in these respects from the Egyptians;
and in some parts of Nubia their constant feuds keep up a warlike spirit, in
which their habit of going about armed enables them frequently to indulge.
Those who know how to read and write are in a far greater proportion than
in Egypt among the same class; for, with the exception of their chiefs, they
have no wealthy or upper orders. Like the blacks, they are fond of intoxicating
liquors; and they extract a brandy and a sort of wine from the datefruit,
as well as boóza, a fermented drink made from barley, bread, and
many other things, which are found to furnish this imperfect kind of beer.
They also are fond of smoking hashish.
Many of the Nubians, as soon as ever they have put by a little money, return
to their own country and settle down there, resuming their primitive way of
life and dress. As a rule they never marry Egyptian wives. In physiognomy
and general appearance they differ equally from the Egyptian and the
negro. In his own country the Nubian seldom shaves or wears anything
upon his head, but allows his hair to grow long and shaggy, soaking it
well in castor-oil; and though less attentive to his toilette than the longhaired
Ababdeh, a well-greased Nubian does not fail to rejoice in his shining
shoulders. Nor are the means for keeping up the constant unction often
wanting, as the castor-oil plant is much cultivated in Nubia; and though the
oil, as extracted by the natives, can hardly be called “fine-drawn,” it answers
the. Nubians' purpose well enough, the women especially soaking their
wonderfully plaited tresses in it constantly. Prior's epigrammatic lines on
the ladies of another African race might well be applied to the Nubian dames
and damsels—
“Before you see, you smell your toast,
And sweetest she, who stinks the most.”
The Turks were formerly a more numerous and important section of the
population than they are now. Their numbers in all probability do not at the
present time exceed 100,000, nor do they fill, as was at one time the case, all
the more important civil and military posts. They are chiefly to be found in
the towns employed as officials, soldiers, merchants, and shopkeepers. Many
of them are emancipated Circassian slaves, while others are the descendants of
Turks born in Egypt, and of very mixed origin. They are as a rule handsome
and dignified in appearance, and courteous in their manner to strangers, though
haughty and overbearing to the natives.
The Abyssinians and Negroes, of whom there are a considerable number in
Egypt, are mostly slaves. The latter come chiefly from the Soodán and
Darfoor. The females of the former race are much prized for their beautiful
figures, agreeable features, and amiability of character. Negresses are principally
employed as domestic servants. Though the slave-trade is officially
forbidden in Egypt, and slaves who desire it can obtain their freedom, it
certainly cannot yet be said that slavery is done away with, nor indeed are
slaves as a rule anxious to obtain their release, as they are generally very
well treated and sure of support in sickness and old age.
The Levantines may be described as Arabic-speaking Christians of European
and Syrian origin; there are few of them who, in addition to their mother
tongue, are not acquainted with several other languages. They are chiefly

engaged in commerce, many of them being very wealthy. Most of the
subordinate employés at the Coursulates are Levantines, their linguistic acquirements
rendering them peculiarly fitted for such posts. The term Levantine
is sometimes applied to persons of European origin born in the East.
The Armenians form a small but important community. They are chiefly
engaged in commerce and trades, especially as goldsmiths and jewellers; but
many of them hold important posts in the government offices. One of Egypt's
most distinguished public men, Nubar Pasha, is an Armenian.
The Jews (Yahood, sing. Yahoodee) are often remarkable in Egypt for their
fair hair, blue eyes, and white skin, just as in Europe they are generally to be
distinguished by opposite characteristics. The street money-changers (serdf)
in the towns are Jews, and there are many wealthy merchants and shopkeepers, though the Jews' quarter is a poor, miserable-looking one, and they
themselves are said to be dirty in person and unclean in their habits. They
are, however, subjected to no persecution, nor do they labour under any civil
disabilities.
The Europeans are an important and ever-increasing section of the population,
especially in Cairo and Alexandria and the towns of the Delta. The
total number may probably be set down at about 90,000, of which one-half are
Greeks and one-quarter Italians, the remainder being made up of French,
English (including Maltese), Germans, Swiss, and various, in the order
named. It is essentially a floating population, though among the Greeks
especially there are many permanent settlers, particularly at Alexandria,
where the wealthiest members of the mercantile community are Greeks.
Nearly all the small general shops at which European articles can be purchased,
both in the Delta and up the country, are kept by Greeks, Maltese, or
Italians. These three nationalities, the first two especially, contribute very
largely to the criminal classes in Egypt; indeed the great majority of crimes
with violence are attributed, and with justice, to them. Many of the most
respectable tradesmen in Alexandria and Cairo are French, and there are a
certain number of Frenchmen employed under the Government. The English
proper are not very numerous, but there are some good English mercantile
houses at Alexandria, while several Englishmen hold high official posts, and
others are employed as engineers. There are 1662 Europeans in Egyptian
Government employ, of whom 427 are English, 319 French, 511 Italians, and
153 Austrians. The remainder are of other nationalities.
There is very little religious fanaticism in Egypt, and natives and Europeans,
the latter generally included by the former under the general term
“Frangi,” live very peaceably together. European travellers need be under
no apprehension of meeting with any rudeness; on the contrary, they will
find themselves treated as a rule with politeness and good nature.
The infant mortality among all classes of the population in Egypt is very
great; but once arrived at puberty, the natives, both men and women, are
fairly long-lived. This, however, is not the case with any of the foreign
elements of the population; either European or African, though the effect of
the climate does not show itself on the former till perhaps the second or third
generation, whereas the African transplanted from his native south is seldom
long-lived.

14. GOVERNMENT.—REVENUE.

Egypt is nominally a Viceroyalty, under the suzerainty of the Porte. Its
relations with Turkey were regulated by the treaties of 1840 and 1841, in which
latter year the government of Egypt was declared by a special firman to be
hereditary in the family of Mohammed Ali. This concession was further
extended in 1866, when by another firman the succession was allowed to pass

from father to son, instead of, as is the usual Mohammedan custom, to the
eldest member of the family. In 1867 another firman was issued, conferring
on the ruler of Egypt the title of Khedive, or more properly Khidewi, a
Persian title, of which it is difficult to determine the exact signification and
value; but at any rate it marked an increase of rank and independence. In
1879 the Sultan removed Ismail from the viceroyalty, and replaced him by his
eldest son Mahomed Tewfik, to whom he sent a firman dated August 1879,
confirming the privileges granted to previous viceroys. The annual tribute
to Turkey was fixed at 678,400l. Of this only 13,570l. is paid to Turkey,
the remainder being sent to England direct for the payment of the Turkish
Bondholders.
Since the occupation of Egypt by England, the power of the Khedive has
been greatly curtailed, and although theoretically the English Governmemt
does not interfere in the internal Government of the country, yet in reality
every question of importance is referred to London through the English
Consul General.
The Khedive is assisted in the governmemt of the country by a Council of
Ministers appointed by himself. The Council consists of the Ministers of
Foreign Affairs, Justice, Interior, War, Finance, Public Works, and Public
Instruction. At the present time Nubar Pasha, who is the President of the
Council, is also Minister of Foreign Affairs and Minister of Justice; one
Minister also holds the Portfolios of War and of the Interior. There is also
an “Assembly of Notables,” composed of village sheykhs elected by the communes,
which meets for a short time once a year, but has very little, if any,
power or control.
The country is divided into provinces, each under a governor, called a
Mudeer. The Mudeer is assisted in the administration of his province by
a council, of which the principal members are the Wekeel, or deputy-governor,
and the kádi, or judge. Each province is subdivided into districts, presided
over by a Nazir; and every village in these districts has its chief, called the
Sheykh-el-beled. Certain towns—Alexandria, Cairo, Suez, Port Said, Damietta,
Rosetta, Kosseir, and el Arish—have their own system of government, independent of the Province in which they are situated.
Since the English occupation, the Egyptian Army has been completely
remodelled by General Sir Evelyn Wood, V.C., G.O.B. It now consists of
about 9000 men, of whom the greater part is raised by conscription, but there
are two battalions of Black troops, who are recruited by voluntary enlistment.
All the superior officers are English and a large proportion of the lieutenantcolonels
and majors. A new law of conscription was passed in 1885, and
every effort is made to carry it out fairly.
The Egyptian Police has also been entirely reorganised by the late General
V. Baker Pashs, and the superior officers are English.
The Egyptian Navy has ceased to exist, with the exception of two small
vessels in the Red Sea, and a guard ship at Alexandria and Port Said.
The Administration of Justice in the mixed tribunals has been already
referred to (p. 2) There are two courts—one of first instance at Alexandria,
Cairo, and Mansourab. The Court of first instance at Cairo has ten European
and seven native judges; that at Alexandria fourteen European and nine
native judges; that at Mansourah has an European judge; and one of appeal
at Alexandria; and no case can be decided by less than five judges, three
Europeans and two natives. The Court of Appeal consists of fourteen judges,
of whom nine are Europeans and five natives; and no case can be decided by
less than eight, five Europeans and three natives. Civil and commercial
cases between natives and foreigners and between foreigners of different

nationalities, are tried by these courts, and the Khedive and the Government
are amenable to its jurisdiction without appeal. The system of law administered
is based on the Code Napoléon. For the administration of justice
among the natives there are two systems. First, the Native Tribunals recently
established, with a Code founded to a great extent on the Code Napoléon;
and, secondly, the Kadi's court, which deals with questions of inheritance
marriage, &c. The justice administered by the Kadi is founded upon the
Koráu. The Native Tribunals are hardly yet in full working order.
Education made considerable progress in Egypt during the reign of the
late Khedive. Mohamed Ali founded public schools, but they were
neglected by his immediate successors. Under Ismail Pasha, however, they
were put into good working order. The present Minister of Public Instruction,
Yacoub Pasha Artin,. is a very accomplished person, and has done much
to improve the system of education, but the amount granted for this service
has been diminished from 99,500l. in 1883 to 68,500l. in 1887. They are
divided into primary schools, secondary or preparatory schools, and special
schools; there are also military schools. The headquarters of these schools is
at Cairo. The free native schools, in which only the Korán and reading and
writing are taught, are very numerous; there is one attached to every sebeel or drinking-fountain. Some of the mosques, notably El Azhar at Cairo, have
schools attached to them, in which the Mohammedan religion and law are
more especially taught. All the different native Christian communities
have schools in most of the towns and villages; and there are several
English, French, and American schools, chiefly at Alexandria and Cairo.
One of the causes which brought Egypt to the verge of bankruptcy was
the undertaking of too many Public works, and the endeavour to execute them
within too short a space of time. Among the large and important works
carried out are the harbour of Alexandria; the harbour of Suez; several
railways, there being now more than 1000 miles of railway, as against 245
at the accession of Ismail Pasha in 1863; telegraphs; lighthouses; and
last, but not least, canals for storing and distributing the surplus waters of
the inundation, many of which, too, are navigable. The present underMinister
of Public Works, Colonel Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff, has done much
to improve the irrigation of the country, and, when the 1,000,000l. which has
been granted for the amelioration of the system of water-supply has been
expended, it is probable that Egypt will be in a better condition, so far as
irrigation is concerned, than she has been for centuries.
The Revenue of Egypt as estimated in the Budget for 1887 is 9,675,247l.
This is the gross amount, but if only the profits of such administration as the
railways, telegraphs, post-offices, &c. are taken into account, the Revenue is
8,752,284l. Of this 4,365,579l. is paid as interest on debt, and 678,397l. as
tribute to Turkéy, leaving 3,708,308l. for the administrative expenses of Egypt.
The land tax is the chief source of revenue, and was calculated to yield
5,141,731l. for 1887. Direct taxes give 648,828l. The other principal sources
of revenue are customs, which yield 913,400l.; octrois 315,330l.; and salt,
218,506l. There appears little doubt that the amount paid as interest on
debt is more than the country can fairly stand, but political reasons prevent
it being reduced.

15. INDUSTRY.—COMMERCE.

Industry.—The bulk of the population of Egypt is, as has been already
shown, engaged in agricultural pursuits. The recent extended cultivation
of the sugar-cane, and the establishment of large sugar manufactories, has
created a new industry, but it is not one which as yet has been of much
benefit to the country, as, owing to the reckless and extravagant manner in
which the manufacture was at first conducted, the sugar was produced in some
cases at a loss, and could not compete either in quality or price with French

made sugar even in the country itself. There are more than twenty sugar
manufactories, most of them in the province of Minieh, in Upper Egypt, but
several of these are now standing idle.
Another recently-introduced industry is the manufacture of paper, which
is, however, confined to one establishment at Boolak, near Cairo. Very good
kinds of paper are made there from maize, straw, and hilfeh grass. Attached
to it is a printing office, and there are also other printing offices at Alexandria
and Cairo.
Large quantities of natron and salt are found in different parts of the valley
of the Nile, and their extraction from the soil gives employment to a considerable
number of people.
One of the oldest industries in Egypt is artifical egg-hatching. It is
principally carried on by Copts. There are said to be in all more than 600
ovens, called maamal el ferákh or farroog, in the country; and the production
of chickens by this process is reckoned at some ten millions.
Among other native industries, may be mentioned the manufacture of silk
and cotton stuffs, dyeing, the distillation of scents and essences, pottery
making, gold and silver embroidery work, jewellery, &c. A number of
articles are made out of the trunk, branches, and leaves of the palm-tree,
such as seats, bed frames, chests, baskets, mats, brooms, and ropes.
Commerce.—The commerce of Egypt is very considerable. In 1885, the
total value of exports was 11,425,000l., and of imports 9,198,145l. The
principal exports were cotton, cotton-seed, sugar, beans, and wheat. Formerly
a large quantity of gum and ivory, and ostrich-feathers were exported, but
this trade has ceased since the rebellion in the Soudan. The principal imports
were cotton goods and other clothing materials, coal, timber, wines and spirits,
coffee and tobacco. About half of the entire trade is with England.

16. HISTORY.

a. SURCES OF ANCIENT HISTORY.

The materials for a knowledge of the history and the manners and customs
of the old Egyptians, have been almost entirely derived from two sources.
Their public annals are written on the walls of the temples—their private
history on the walls of the tombs. And from temple or tomb have also come
most of the objects in the different museums, which help to throw such light
on this subject.
The Table of Abydus, of which there are two copies —a mutilated one in
the British Museum, found in the Temple of Rameses Il. at Abydus, and a
perfectly complete one, found in 1865 on a wall of the Temple of Sethi I.
At that place, and still remaining there—serves as an excellent guide towards
the chronological arrangement of a œrtain number of the kings of Egypt.
It contains the names of 76 kings, a comparison of whose names with the lists
of Manetho has much helped towards the work of reconstructing portions of
Egyptian history.
Of the same character are the Table of Sakkárah, containing the names of
55 kings; the Hall of Ancestors, a small chamber at Karnak, on whose walls
was a tablet, now in Paris, containing the names of 60 kings; and the Papyrus
of Turin
, containing also what was once by far the most complete list of kings,
but so mutilated that it has not yet been fully deciphered.
The Ritual, or Book of the Dead, is a papyrus found buried with the mummies. It consists of chapters describing the adventures of the soul after
death, and the prayers offered to the gods. The largest and most complete
specimen is in the Turin Museum. From this book is learnt the ideas held
by the ancient Egyptians as to a future state.
It would be impossible to enumerate all the other almost equally important
objects, existing either in museums or in situ, which help to a knowledge of

thre public and private life of the old Egyptians. There is hardly any one of
them indeed which does not contribute its share.
The first who attempted to write a history of Egypt was Manetho, an
Egyptian priest who lived in the reign of Ptolemy Philadelphus, circ. 263 B.O.
His history was written in Greek, and contained a list of the kings who had
reigned in Egypt from the earliest times to the conquest of Alexander. The
history is lost; but the lists are preserved in the Chronology of George
Syncellus, a Byzantine monk who lived at the beginning of the 9th century.
He had collected them, not from the original work, which had long been lost,
but from copies made by Julius Africanus in the 3rd century, and Eusebius
in the 4th. To what extent credence can be given to these lists, which, supposing
them originally correct, had probably been altered and manipulated by
the Christian writers above mentioned, is a point much disputed by modern
Egyptologists. Many are now disposed to consider that recent discoveries
have rather confirmed their title to be looked upon as to a certain extent
trustworthy guides.
What the classic historians have to say about Egypt may be read in the
2nd book of Herodotus, the 1st book of Diodorus, the 17th book of Strabo,
and the treatise de Iside et Osiride of Plutarch. Their accounts are, however,
at the best secondhand traditions, which have served rather to confuse and
falsify the history of Egypt, and to mix up with it a number of tales and
fables.
The only certain sources of Egyptian history are the monuments, which are
now rapidly yielding up the wealth of their written records to the learned
and indefatigable scholars of Germany, France, and England, who have made
Egyptology their special study.

b. GENERAL SKETOH.

Although historians have differed as much as 3000 years in the date they
have assigned to the beginning of the Egyptian monarchy, it is not difficult
to obtain a clear view of those successive periods of prosperity in which
history was written. From the beginning until now we have a constant
repetition of the same class of events. The cycle commences with a native
monarchy, ruling despotically but peacefully: wealth and power, perhaps
attack from without, lead to foreign wars: a strange race, encouraged by
internal discord, conquers the country, and a long period of decadence ensues.
Then comes a revival, which lasts perhaps during the reign of only one
family, perhaps for three or four; followed by foreign wars, conquest,
decline, and subjection as before. During these periods of misfortune the
arts have been neglected, history has remained unwritten, and it is often
impossible even to approximate to the time which elapsed before the next
revival took place.
The successive periods of prosperity were as follows: (1) The early
monarchy—Mena to Neferkara. (2) A revival under the later kings of
the XIth Dynasty, and under the XIIth, seems to have ended with
Amenemhat IV, (3) A second revival under Aahmes, about the year 1700
B.C., lasted during the reigns of the XVIIIth and two following dynasties,
and was followed, about 1000 B.C., by a long succession of foreign invasions,
culminating in the conquest by the Persians. (4) The prosperous reigns of
the early Ptolemies (322—165 B.C.) brought wealth back to Egypt; but after
about 150 years the power of the dynasty declined, and in 30 B.C. Egypt
became a Roman province. (5) A period of comparative prosperity returned
under the Roman emperors from Nero (54 A.D.) to Theodosius (379 A.D.), after
which, misgovernment reduced the country once more to insignificance.
(6) The early Mohammedan conquerors brought in a flourishing state, and,

in spite of constant contests for power among the rulers, Egypt became once
more a centre of the arts and sciences. This era closed with the conquest of
the country by the Turks (A.D. 1517), since which time Egypt has been a
Turkish Pashalic. Mohammed Ali, who was appointed Pasha in 1805, after the
temporary occupation by the French, endeavoured to assert his independence
of the Porte, and so far succeeded that the government was made hereditary
in his family, though the Sultan still retained a nominal suzerainty over
the country.
First Period.—The Early Monarchy. Mena, though no contemporary monuments
remain, is universally regarded as the first king of a united Egypt. His
name occurs at the head of the Tables of Kings which have been found in
various places (Abydus, Karnak, Turin papyrus, &c.). He is believed to have
sprung from an ancient line of local monarchs seated at This or Thinis, a
town adjoining Abydus, the place of the burial of the mythical Osiris.
Seven kings of the same dynasty followed him on the throne of Memphis,
a city near the S. point of the Delta, which he founded. The fourth,
Ouenephes or Ata, is said to have been the first to build pyramids.
The IInd Dynasty consisted of nine kings, of whom no monuments
have been recognised. The second, Kakaoo, is said to have appointed the
worship of the bull Apis at Memphis, the bull Mnevis at Heliopolis, and
the goat Mendes. With the IIIrd Dynasty the series of extant monuments
commences. The second king, Zasor (Tosorthros) or Nebka, is recorded to
have built a palace of stone; but the oldest buildings identified are some
tombs of the time of Seneferoo, the eighth and last king, at Maydoom. Seneferoo
is also named on the rocks at Wady Maghárah on the Peninsula of
Sinai. The first king of the eight whose names are mentioned under the IVth
Dynasty was Shoofoo or Khufu (Suphis or Cheops), who in his long reign
erected the Great Pyramid. He also is mentioned in the rock sculptures of
Maghárah. The next king but one was Rakhaf or Khafra (Chephren), who
built the second Pyramid, and is supposed also to have built the granite
and alabaster tomb, or temple, near the Sphinx. He is the first Pharaoh
whose statues are extant. The fourth king was Ramenkaoo or Menkaoora
Mycerinus or Mencheres), who built the third Pyramid. Of the remaining
kings of this family little or nothing but the names are known. The Vth
Dynasty came, according to Manetho, from Elephantine, or the island of
Aboo, near the First Cataract and the modern Assooán. The second king,
Saoora, built the first pyramid of Abooseer, and his name occurs among
the inscriptions at Wady Maghárah, where he is represented-as smiting his
enemies. Records also exist there of several of his successors, of whom
Raenooser built the middle pyramid of Abooseer; Hormenkaoo or Menkauhor,
probably one of the pyramids of Sakkárah; and Oonas or Unas (Obnos), the
flat-topped tomb known as the Mastábat el-Pharaoon. Thy, or Tih, whose
tomb at Sakkárah is well known, lived at this time. Oonas was the last of
this dynasty. The VIth commenees with Teta, who is sometimes looked
upon as the last king of the previous family, and as having reigned at
Memphis; while Ate, his successor, was already king of Upper Egypt. Be
this as it may, the monuments show that whether on account of civil wars
or from natural decay, the early monarchy was declining. Ate's successor,
Pepi, or Rameri—who, according to Greek accounts was a giant, and
reigned a century—made some attempts to revive the glories of his predecessore. His name occurs in many places, and his minister, Oona, has left, in
a monument found at Memphis and now in the Boolak Museum, many interesting
notices of his reign. Pepi married Meri-ra-ankhnes, the daughter
of Khooa, the member of a priestly family. Her tomb has been found at
Abydus. She had two sons, Merenra and Raneferka or Neferkara, who
each in turn succeeded his father. The kingdom seems now to have rapidly

declined, and, if we may believe Herodotus, Nitocris, a queen, whose Egyptian
name is Nitaker, precipitated the downfall of the dynasty.
Meanwhile the Asiatic tribes on the N.E. had commenced to invade Egypt;
and whether the VIIth and VIIIth Dynasties were of foreign blood or not, we
know that the IXth and Xth were aliens, reigning in the Delta. The visit
of Abraham may have been made to one of them. Meanwhile it would
seem that, in a time of great confusion and obscurity, the old succession was
kept up among a number of kinglets, of whom we only know a few names,
and that their circumscribed dominions were in Upper Egypt. They form the
XIth Dynasty, and appear to have made Coptos or Kupt and Thebes their headquarters.
Among them were several kings who bore the name of Enentef and of
Mentuhotep, and these last left some remains of importance. One of these
Enentefs is styled in an inscription on a coffin in the Louvre “the Great,”
and a Mentuhotep is commemorated on the rocks of the island of Konosso,
near Philæ, as the conqueror of thirteen nations, and the servant of Khem,
the god of Coptos. The name of Mentuhotep also occurs on the rocks in
the valley of Hammamat, leading from Coptos to the Red Sea. Under
Sankhkara, whose name occurs as the 58th on the Table of Abydus,
lived a functionary named Hannu, who records on a rock-inscription,
in this same valley of Hammamat, some particulars of his reign, from
which it appears that the kings of this dynasty had dealings with Arabia;
and the trade thus introduced directly by the valley route from Coptos to
the Red Sea, seems to have revived the fallen fortunes of the old monarchy.
We now begin to meet with the names of some Asiatic deities, of whom
Amen eventually became to a great extent supreme in the minds of religious
Egyptians.
Second Period.—Amenemhat, the first king of the XIIth Dynasty, seems to
have been the representative, perhaps in the female line, of the older kings.
By this time almost everything of the ancient monarchy, except what was
imperishable, must have disappeared. But the new kings were men of
sagacity as well as action, and there can be no doubt that foreign trade added
to their wealth. The provinces of Lower Egypt were slowly won back from
the invader, and the obscure kings of the rival dynasty expelled with their
people. The second king, Osirtasen I., has left many memorials of his power
all over the country. The restoration of the old temple of the Sun, Ra, at On
(Heliopolis); the foundation of the temple of Knum at Karnak, with both of
which divinities Amen was associated; the commencement of the gigantic
enterprise which created the Fayoom—all these must be attributed to him.
The renaissance of art, especially architecture, at this period is remarkable.
In the ruined “proto-Doric” colonnade of Karnak, and in the tombs of Beni
Hassan sculptured for a family of local magnates, we have examples
worthy of the best ages. There are many inscriptions, both public and
private, of this reign, for the art of writing had not been lost; and though the
primitive simplicity of the early period both in grammar and form is gone,
we are compensated by the first indications of verse composition. But the
greatest work of the dynasty was accomplished by Amenemhat III. By
noting the height of the Nile at different places, and by observations on the
level of the surrounding country, a series of works of irrigation to which the
world offers no parallel was completed. The great opening and dam, Hoont,
the great temple of the canal mouth, Lapero, are still preserved for us in
the names of Illahoon and the Labyrinth. Lake Mœris, with its sacred
crocodiles, has disappeared; but the Fayoom is still, after a lapse of forty
centuries, the most fertile part of Egypt. The worship of the crocodileheaded
god, Sebek, is indicated in the later names of this dynasty, and the
early names of the XIIIth, which appears to have succeeded through an heiress,
the queen Sebek-neferoo-ra, on the death of the seventh king, Amenemhat IV.;

but the vigour of the older race did not descend with the crown. Once more
there is obscurity and confusion; and though the blood of the early Pharaohs
was transmitted eventually to a more powerful family, it was not until many
hundred years of foreign oppression had elapsed. Sebekhotep IV., and
perhaps some of the other kings, appear to have descended successfully upon
the rich plains of the Delta, and their memorials have been found at Tunis, one
of the strongholds of the rival dynasties (the XIVth, XVth, and XVIth). But
the foreigners, who have been generally recognised in history as the Hyksos
or Shepherd Kings, and who have sometimes been in part identified with the
Phœnicians, gradually seem to have conquered the whole country, and, if they
allowed the princes of the legitimate line to live, exacted obedience from
them. The capital of the XVIIth Dynasty was at Karba (Avaris), perhaps the
biblical Zoan, the Greek Tanis, and the modern Sân, a place built upon the
alluvial soil of the Delta, but now a barren waste covered with the ruins of
vast edifices of marble and granite. It was, almost without doubt, under one
of the kings of this foreign race that Joseph came into Egypt; and there is
sufficient evidence, were any wanting, to show that the Hyksos had adopted
the style, religion, arts, language, and above all the writing, of the conquered
country. They were served by the descendants of the ancient Egyptians,
just as the Turks are now served by the Copts, on account of their intellectual
superiority. One precious document, in a fragmentary state (Sallier Papyrus, I.
Brit. Mus.), relates to the commencement of the resistance of the princes of
the south against the tyrants of Avaris; and we have the name of Ra-sekenen,
a king of Thebes, or, as he is called in the Papyrus, “Hak of the town of the
South,” in whose family the old line continued. There were several Ra-sekeuens
among the members recorded of the XIIIth Dynasty; and during the
time of one of them, whose dominions included the town of El Kab, where a
great fortress of crude brick still exists, a terrible famine devastated the land.
This may well have been the famine described in the Bible, and Joseph
may have been in the service of the rival of Ra-sekenen, whose name was
Apap or Apopi.
Third Period (circ. B.C. 1700-1000).—Aahmes, or Amosis, the first king of
the XVIIIth Dynasty, appears to have been the son of Kames, the successor of
Ra-sekenen, and Aah-hotep, the queen whose jewels form so remarkable a
feature of the Boolak Museum. Amosis took the capital of the Hyksos, and
drove them out of Egypt. The arts immediately revived, and the dynasty of
the Deliverers, as they are sometimes called, raised many of the finest monuments
which will be visited by the traveller: Dayr el-Bahree, the tomb or
temple of Hatasoo, whose obelisk in the Temple of Karnak to the memory of her
father, Thothmes I., is the highest in the world; the quarry works at Silsilis;
the first rock tombs in the Theban mountain; a portion of the Temple
of Karnak; the mighty figures of Amenhotep or Amunoph (Amenophis) III.,
in the plain of Thebes: innumerable temples, statues, and inscriptions commemorate
the reigns of this family; and poetry flourished as well as the other
arts, a hymn to Amen Ra, inscribed on granite, and now in the Boolak
Museum, anticipating in its lofty tone the triumphal Song of Moses, 300 years
later. Egypt may be said to have reached its highest point of prosperity, the
foreign conquests of Thothmes III. comprising almost all the countries which
border the Mediterranean, and the interior wealth of the country being
marked by magnificent buildings, and such works of art as obelisks, of which
one specimen of this period is now in London. Thothmes III. continued for
centuries in the grateful memory of his country, and his title, Ramenkheper,
is found inscribed on innumerable amulets of all periods as of the luckiest
omen. There was a temporary interruption to this prosperity under Amenhotep
IV., who, as Khoo-en-aten, adopted, perhaps from his mother, a
foreign form of solar worship, and, defacing the older temples, built a new

capital at Tel-el-Amarna, about half-way between Memphis and Thebes.
The history of this period, however, is very obscure, and it may be that
Amenhotep IV. and Khoo-en-aten were different persons. Horus, or
Hor-em-heb, seems to have restored the ancient city and the ancient gods,
and the XIXth Dynasty succeeded peacefully. The reigns of Rameses I. and
Sethi I. were much taken up with the repression of a new Asiatic invasion,
which threatened at one time to bring back the oppressions of the Hyksos
Rameses II. carried his arms far among the people of Asia, and, probably
dreading the resistance of the kindred tribes settled in the northern and,
eastern portion of his dominions, pressed them in to forced labour. This was
the “night of bondage” for the Israelites, whose champion Moses was educated
at the court of Rameses. Most of the finest buildings now remaining
are of this period. The reign of his successor, Meneptah, is remarkable,
first, for the Exodus, which probably took place early in it, and secondly for
the celebration of a “Sothic period,” or commencement of a cycle of 1460
years, by which we are enabled to assign the year B.C. 1325 as an approximately
certain date in his annals. He did not perish in the passage of the
Red Sea, though, according to the song of Moses, he must have had a narrow
escape, as his horse was lost (Exod. xv. 19). His death at a good old age is
lamented in an elegy (Records of the Past, iv. 49), and his beautiful tomb in the
Báb el-Molook is well known. There seems to have been some decline among
the succeeding kings, but Rameses III., the first of the XXth Dynasty, revived
the fading glories of the throne; and his annals, which are written in the
famous Harris papyrus, prove him to: have rivalled Thothmes III. and
Rameses II. in his foreign conquests and the erection of great buildings. Of
these the temple of Medeenet Haboo on the plain of Thebes is perhaps the most
remarkable. Among the inscriptions there, is one which mentions, for the first
time in history, several of the nations of Europe. A long line of kings of
the same name, of whom the last was Rameses XVI., followed, and ended in
a series of revolutions. A priest of Tanis seated himself on the throne as
founder of the XXIst Dynasty, but his son Piankh, though vigorous and
capable, was uuable without submission to his neighbours to transmit
the crown to his posterity, and even the little kingdom of Israel was able
to demand for Solomon the hand of a daughter of Pharaoh. The names
of Sheshonk and Osorkon, Bokenranef and Taharaka, Sabatak and Psametik,
of the XXIInd and four following dynasties, sufficiently indicate their
alien origin. The power of Babylon, and subsequently of the Persians,
kept them constantly occupied in Asiatic wars. Sheshonk interfered between
Judah and Israel; Taharaka was defeated by Esarhaddon, the son of
Sennacherib; and Neco slew Josiah at Megiddo. A partial revival of the
arts took place under the XXVIth Dynasty, and some fine works bear the
names of Psametik, Queen Ameniritis, and Uahbra or Hophra; and Amasis II.
was worthy to sit on the throne of the Pharaohs. His son, Psametik III.,
was defeated and put to death by Cambyses, who made Egypt a province of
the Persian Empire.
Fourth Period (B.C. 525-30).—The Persians are reckoned as the XXVIIth
Dynasty, and during their occupation attempts more or less successful were
made by native insurgents to drive them out. Amyrtæus, who is said to
have been a scion of the ancient royal family, made the best stand, and is
reckoned the sole king of the XXVIIIth Dynasty. In his reign Herodotus came
to Egypt. There were several sovereigns of the XXIXth Dynasty; among
whom we need only mention Neferites I., Aehoris, and Neferites II., all of whom
were for a time independent. The struggle went on under Nectanebo, whose
name remains on the magnificent granite shrine of the temple at Edfoo. In
his time Plato visited Egypt as an oil merchant. Two weak kings succeeded
Nectanebo, and form the XXXth Dynasty; but the overwhelming power of

Alexander the Great soon annihilated finally the independendence of Egypt, and
it fell on his death to the share of Ptolemy, who, putting an end to the disorder
which had prevailed for two centuries, was hailed as the founder of a
new dynasty and the saviour (soter) of the country. Under his wise administration
Egypt once more prospered. His capital was the new city of Alexandria,
where the body of the great Macedonian was preserved for ages, and
under him and the second and third kings of his family learning and the arts
flourished. The Ptolemies conformed to the customs and religion of their
new country; they built new temples and restored the old sanctuaries. Some
of the most remarkable of the gigantic edifices of the old Pharaohs were emulated
in Denderah, Edfoo, Esneh, and Philæ: while the inner shrines of
Karnak and Luxor attest their devotion to the Egyptian gods. Their names,
translated but awkwardly into the hieroglyphic character, occur in many
places, but their coins are Greek. Ptolemy II. (Philadelphus) employed
Manetho to make his History, of which the List of Kings alone has been
preserved. The schools of Alexandria now became the best in the civilized
world, and the wisdom which so largely enters into the teaching of Moses
and of Plato was rather illustrated than altogether superseded. Diodorus
visited Egypt in the reign of Ptolemy XIII. (Auletes). Family strife eventually
reduced the Ptolemaic kingdom to a state of subjection to Rome,
and, before the dawn of the Christian era, Augustus put the last of the
family, Cæsarion, the son of Cleopatra and Julius Cæsar, to death, and
annexed Egypt to the Roman Empire.
Fifth Period (B.C. 30—A.D. 640).—Under Rome Egypt was for a time well
governed and rich, but its importance in the history of early Christianity
gives it an interest beyond that derived from its actual condition. Though
the names of the Cæsars occur in cartouches, and one or two temples, as that
at Shenhoor and “Pharaoh's Bed” at Philæ, attest their care for the old
religion, it rapidly declined among the people; and Hadrian, who visited
Egypt in A.D. 122, gave it a blow by his addition of Antinous to the number
of the Egyptian gods. Before the reign of Severus edicts were necessary for
the repression of Christianity, to which the persecution of Diocletian only
added strength. Alexandria became a nursery of rival sects; and to their
zeal and learning the modern world owes the collection and preservation of
the books of the New Testament. Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra, annexed
Egypt to her short-lived realm, A.D. 270, but at her defeat Rome was again
supreme. Though Constantine made Christianity the established religion of
his empire, heathenism, especially under a modified Gnostic form, still
lingered in Egypt until the edict of Theodosius, A.D. 379, which made it unlawful.
Yet proofs exist that in the holy isle of Philæ and other places the
altars of Osiris and Isis were not wholly quenched for nearly a century later.
The period of Egyptian decline culminated under the feeble rule of the Byzantine
emperors, heretics raised the people in frequent tumults, famine followed
maladministration; and though another Asiatic invasion, under Ghosroes the
Persian, gave the country comparative rest for ten years (A.D. 619–629), its
resources, like its ancient civilization, were wholly exhausted, and it fell an
easy prey to the Arabs under Amer or Amroo, A.D. 640.
Sixth Period (A.D. 640-1517).—Although the first care of the new masters
of Egypt was rather to change and destroy, it was not long before the new
conquest became the head-quarters of Islam. In many places, as the Delta,
the peasants accepted the new faith. In others, as the Howara, colonies from
Arabia almost exterminated the old inhabitants. The Copts, as the Egyptian
Christians are still called, were first treated with toleration; but, owing
chiefly to their own seditions, were afterwards persecuted, and for many centaries
were kept in a state of subjection. The Abbaside Khalifs promoted
learning and architecture. El Mamoon, a son of the celebrated Haroon er

Rasheed, caused the translation of Greek mathemetical and astronomical
works. His nephew, El Motawukkel, established the Nilometer at Roda,
On the accession of the Tooloonide kings Egypt became really if not nominally
independent of the Khalif, who latterly resided, as a kind of pope, in
semi-obscurity under their protection. Ahmed ibn et Tooloon built the great
mosque which bears his name within the walls of Cairo; but the capital was
then Fostat. The first of the Fatemites in Egypt, Aboo Tummeem or El Moöz,
built Cairo in A.D. 969, and it has ever since been the chief city. Under this
dynasty the country flourished. The great mosque of El Hakim was built
in A.D 1003. In 1176 the Frank Crusaders attacked and partly burnt Cairo,
but Yoosef, called Saladin, erected the fortifications which still remain, and
left marks of his munificence and taste in many places. The Bahr Yoosef, a
canal which he made, or perhaps restored, runs for nearly four hundred miles
parallel to the Nile, and irrigates vast tracks. In 1249 the French king,
Louis IX., was taken prisoner in Egypt, almost at the same time that the
dynasty of Saladin came to an end. The Baharite Memlook sultans continued,
however, the great public works he had commenced, and the mosques
of Sultan Kalaoon and Sultan Hassan are so fine as almost to make amends
for the destruction of the ancient monuments from whose materials they were
built. The number of handsome buildings of this period all over Egypt attests
the general prosperity of the country, notwithstanding the unsettled state of
the government, which passed from sultan to sultan, and from family to
family, with a frequency which is bewildering. The tombs of these Memlook
kings, and the magnificent copies of the Korán written for them and now in
the library at Cairo, show that the arts still flourished. The mosque of Berkook
dates before 1399; that of Kaitbey is all but a century later. In 1501
Sultan el Ghoree was defeated at Aleppo by the Turks, and in 1517 Sultan
Toman Bey, his nephew, lost a second battle near Heliopolis, and was put to
death by the invader.
Seventh Period (A.D. 1517-1879).—The Turks removed the residence of the
fainéant Khalif to Constantinople, and made Egypt a pashalik. Their careless
government was much impeded by the local Arab magnates, who formed tributary
principalities all through the country. During the war of the Turks with
Russia in 1771, one of these princes, Ali Bey, made himself master of all Egypt.
His successor was recognised by the Turks, and it seemed for a time as if a
native dynasty was once more about to be established; but in 1798 General
Bonaparte invaded Egypt, defeated the so-called Memlooks near the Pyramids,
and took Cairo. Lord Nelson having at the battle of the Nile destroyed the
French fleet, Bonaparte retired to France, leaving General Kleber behind.
Kleber was assassinated by an Arab, and General Menou, his successor, had
to capitulate to the English, who, under Abercromby, had won the battle of
Alexandria, 21st March, 1801. A few years later the Turks appointed the
clever but unscrupulous Mohammed Ali to the government of Egypt; and
after a few years of struggle with the native chiefs, his power was finally
established in 1811 by the treacherous slaughter of the Memlook Beys and
their followers, 470 in number, in the citadel of Cairo. Under the rule
of Mohammed Ali Egypt rapidly rose in importance, and in 1831 he declared
war against the Sultan with the view of obtaining complete independence. His efforts would probably have been successful but for the intervention
of the European Powers, who obliged him to quit Syria, which had
been conquered from the Turks by his son Ibrahim, and acknowledge the Porte
as his suzerian. Abdul Medjid, on receiving his submission in 1841, made the
viceroyalty hereditary in his family. During his long reign Mohammed Ali
endeavoured in many ways to improve the material and moral condition of
the country. Schools were founded, Europeans were encouraged to settle in
the country, and were even appointed to public offices; canals and embankments

were restored, the cultivation of the cotton plant was introduced, &c. In the
latter years of his life he became imbecile, and in 1848 was succeeded by his
son Ibrahim, who however died the following year, just shortly before Mohammed
Ali's own death. The next ruler was Abbas Pasha, son of Toossoon
Pasha, and grandson of Mohammed Ali. He was a suspicious and brutal
tyrant, who stopped the reforms begun by his grandfather, and lived in constant
dread of assassiuation, a fate which eventually befell him in 1854, at the
hands of his own servants. His uncle Said Pasha, Mohammed Ali's third
son, succeeded, and under him Egypt again entered on the path of reform.
But unfortunately the finances of the country were not equal to supporting
the extravagance of an Oriental potentate as well as his schemes for its
improvement, and in 1862 Egypt began the rôle of a borrower, which she has
since followed with such fatal facility. Railways were begun in this reign;
the scheme for cutting through the Isthmus of Suez assumed a definite shape,
and a commencement of the actual canal was made; and the first steps were
taken towards making the study and preservation of the old monuments a
national care. At the death of Said in 1863, Ismail Pasha, the second
son of Ibrahim Pasha, a nephew of Said, succeeded to the vice-royalty.
Able and energetic in a remarkable degree, he endeavoured to carry out
all his grandfather's schemes for the introduction of European civilization,
and indeed went far beyond them. In order the better to succeed he
at once aimed at securing virtual if not actual independence of the Porte;
and by the firman of 1866 giving him the title of Khedive, and making
the succession direct from father to son instead of its descending according to
Turkish law to the eldest heir, and a subsequent firman of 1873 giving him
the power to make treaties and otherwise act independently, his object was
nearly attained. The reforms accomplished during his reign were many
and important, and numerous public works bear witness to his zeal; but
unfortunately the resources of the country did not keep pace with these
many improvements, which have only been accomplished at the expense of
burdening the country with an enormous debt, and completely impoverishing
the peasantry. That future generations will benefit cannot be doubted,
but more credit would have been gained for what has really been done had it
been done gradually, with a better adaptation of the means to the end, and
without pressing so hardly on the present generation. In June 1879 Ismail
was deposed by the Sultan at the request or dictation of the European Powers
interested in Egypt, and his eldest son, Mohammed Tewfik, succeeded him and
is the present Khedive. Tewfik, having owed his throne to the action of the
European powers, placed himself entirely under their control, and the
Government of the country was practically in the hands of Major Baring,
now Sir E. Baring, and Monsieur de Blignieres, the English and French
Commissioners of the debt. Every effort was made to reduce expenditure.
and among other economies, the army was very largely reduced. This created
a serious feeling of discoutent among the officers, and in February 1881 a
military revolt broke out, which was the commencement of future troubles.
On the 10th January, 1882, the English and French Consuls General presented
a joint note to the Khedive to the effect that under certain circumstances the
governments of France and England might be obliged to take a more active
part to guard against all chance of complications in Egypt. The Egyptian
Chamber of Notables had assembled on the 26th December 1881, and on the
31st they claimed their right to consider the Egyptian Budget. On the 20th
January 1881, Sir E. Malet pointed out to the English Government that
armed intervention in Egypt would become a necessity if the Chamber of
Notables was refused permission to vote on the Budget. His prediction
proved correct, and, after much correspondence, an Anglo-French fleet
assembled at Crete, and arrived in Alexandria on the 20th May. On the

28th May the Egyptian Ministry resigned, on the ground that the Khedive,
in acquiescing in foreign interference, had acted in opposition to the firmans of
the Sultan. Tewfik telegraphed to the Sultan, asking that a Turkish
Commissioner might be sent to Egypt. The request was acceded to, and
Dervish Pasha arrived at Alexandria on the 7th June. The situation became
more strained daily, and on the 11th June a riot took place in Alexandria, in
which a number of Europeans lost their lives. The power of the Khedive
diminished, while the influence of Araby Pasha and the military party, who
believed that Tewfik was playing into the hands of France and England,
increased. A conference assembled at Constantinople, but this led to little
result. The French Government having failed to obtain a vote of audit from
the Chamber of Deputies, were unable to take active measures. The English
Admiral, Sir Beauchamp Seymour, observing that the Egyptians were
arming some batteries, sent an ultimatum to the Egyptian Commander, and
on the refusal of the latter to desist, opened fire on the forts on the 11th July.
The forts were silenced, and on the following day Alexandria was fired by
the Egyptian troops, who retired into the interior of the country. An English
expedition was sent out under the command of Lord Wolseley, who, after
defeating the Egyptian troops at Tel-el-Kebir, took possession of Cairo on the
14th September. The Khedive was brought back under English protection,
and since that time Egypt has been occupied by English troops and been
under the English Government, although a native ministry still conducts the
internal affairs of the country.

c. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE TO B.C. 30.

Any chronological table of the early Kings of Egypt must necessarily be
given with great reserve. There can be no certainty before the reign of
Psammetichus I., 665 B.C. The enormous number of years required by the
only ancient authority extant, the lists of Manetho, has caused many authors
to consider some of the dynasties given by him as not successive but contemporaneous.
Recent discoveries, however, seem to show that the dynasties he
gives a list of did succeed one another, though it is possible there may have
been others reigning at the same time in different parts of Egypt, which are
considered by him as illegitimate, and therefore left unnoticed. This does not,
however, throw much light on the chronological question, and some who agree
in considering Manetho's dynasties as, with one or two exceptions, successive,
recoil from accepting the result which the addition of the duration assigned
by him to each dynasty makes.
The following table embraces the period from the first known landmark in
Egyptian history, the accession of Menes, to the final absorption of the country
into the Roman Empire. It gives the number and title of each dynasty, the
places at which monuments of it are found, the names of the principal kings,
and the dates according to the different computations of Sir Gardner
Wilkinson—W., M. Mariette-Bey—M., and Dr. Brugsch-Bey—B.
I. THINITE (from This, near Abydus). W. 2320; M. 5004; B.4400.

B.C.
W. 2320
M. 5004
B. 4400
Mena (Menes). The first known Egyptian king, and founder of Memphis.
Tota (Athothis)
(Quenephes I.) Perhaps the builder of the step pyramid of
Sakkárah.
II. MEMPHITE. M. 4751; B.4133.
B. 4100 Kakaoo (Kaiechos). The worship of Apis established at Memphis,
and of Mnevis at On, Heliopolis.
III. MEMPHITE. M. 4449; B. 3966.
Pyramid of Maydoom; Wady Maghárah, Sinai.
B. 3766 Seneferoo. The first king whose name appears on contemporaneous
monuments.
IV. MEMPHITE. W. 2128; M. 4235; B. 3733.
Geezeh; Sakkárah; Wady Maghárah, Sinai.
W. 2123
M. 4235
B. 3733
Shoofoo or Khufu ( Cheops, Suphis). Great Pyramid of Geezeh
built.
B. 3666 Khafra ( Chephren ). Second Pyramid of Geezeh built.
B. 3633 Menkaoora (Mycerinus). Third Pyramid of Geezeh built.
V. ELEPHANTINE. M. 3951; B. 3566.
Sakkárah; Abooseer; Wady Maghárah, Sinai.
B. 3433 Raenooser (Rathoures). The first king who used the double
cartouche.
B. 3366 Tatlcara or Assa (Tancheres). The tomb of Tih at Sakkárah dates
from about this period.
B. 3333 Oonas (Obnos). Builder of the great truncated pyramid at Sakkárah, called the Mastábat el Pharaoon.
VI. MEMPHITE. M. 3703; B. 3300.
Sân; Sakkárah; El Bersheh; Zowyet el Myiteen; Sheykh Said; Abydus;
Wady Maghárah, Sinai; &c.
W. 2001
B. 3233
Merira Pepi (Apappus). The name of this king is found in a
great many places from Sân to Assooán; he appears to have
been an able and powerful ruler. According to the Greek
accounts he reigned 100 years. Pyramid at Sakkarah.
VII. MEMPHITE. M. 3500; B. 3100.
VIII. MEMPHITE.
IX. Heracleopolite (Ahnasieh). M. 3358.
X. Heracleopolite (Ahnasieh). M. 3249.
No record of these four dynasties has as yet been found on any of the
monuments. Brugsch makes no attempt to assign a date to the eighth, ninth,
or tenth. The fabulous Queen Nitocris belongs probably to the early part
of this period.
XI. THEBAN. M. 3064.
Drah Aboo'l Negga, Thebes; Hammamat; Konosso.
B.C. Enentef and Mentuhotep appear to have been the names borne
alternately by many of the kings of this dynasty. Under one
of the latter Egypt appears to have again risen in importance.
B. 2500 Sankhkara. An inscription in the rocky valley of Hammamat, on
the road from the ancient Coptos to the Red Sea, commemorates
this king as the first to send an expedition to
Ophir and “Punt,” probably Southern Arabia.
XII. THEBAN. M. 3064; B. 2466.
Sán; Heliopolis; Fayoom; Beni Hassan; Asyoot; Abydus; Karnak; Semneh;
Wady Maghárah, Sinai.
M. 3064
B. 2466
Amenemhat I. The first king of this dynasty, under which
Egypt reached to a high pitch of prosperity.
W. 1740
B. 2433
Osirtasen I. The obelisk now standing at Heliopolis was erected
in this king's reign. His glories and those of his two successors,
Amenemhat II. and Osirtasen II., are celebrated in inscriptions
in the tombs of Améni and Knumhotep at Beni
Hassan.
B. 2333 Osirtasen III. A great conqueror; memorials of his victories
over the “Kush,” or negroes, are found at Semneh, above the
Second Cataract.
W. 1621
B. 2300
Amenemhat III. Conferred great benefit on the country by the
construction of dykes, reservoirs, and canals for regulating the
inundations of the Nile; the most celebrated of these works
was Lake Mœris in the Fayoom, close to which he also built
the famous Labyrinth. Records of the rise of the Nile during
his reign are found at Semneh, where he caused regular
observations of the increase in the river to be taken and forwarded
northwards.
XIII. THEBAN. M. 2851; B. 2233.
Sár; Asyoot; Abydus; Thebes; El Kab; First Cataract>; Semneh; Argo.
Sebekhotep. This name appears to have been borne by several
kings of this dynasty; one, Sebekhotep III., records the height
of the Nile in the third year of his reign on the rocks al
Semne.
XIV. XOITE. M. 2398.
XV. HYKSOS or SHEPHEDS. M. 2214.
XVI. HYKSOS or SHEPHERDS.
XVII. HYKSOS or SHEPHERDS.
Sên.
B.C.
B. 1750 Nub or Nubti. According to Dr. Brugsch, Joseph arrived in
Egypt during the reign of the Pharaoh Nub, B.C. 1730, and
rose to honour under Apopi.
The whole of the period of Egyptian history from the XIIIth to the XVIIth
Dynasty inclusive is wrapped in obscurity. It is probable that while the
three Hyksos dynasties reigned in Lower Egypt and the Delta, the old Theban
royal race still held sway in the south as tributaries of the Hyksos. The
Sallier papyrus in the British Museum introduces us to Apopi and a certain
Rasekenen, a “hak” or governor of “the town of the south,” as contemporaries;
and a long inscription in a tomb at El Kab gives an account of the
capture of Avaris, the chief town of the Hyksos, by Aahmes, or Amosis, the
successor of Rasekenen, and the first king of the XVIIIth Dynasty.
XVIII. THEBAN. W. 1575; M. 1703; B. 1700.
Heliopolis; Toora and Masárah; Tel el Amarna; Karnak; El Kab; Silsilis;
Kom Ombos; Elephantine; Amada; Wady Halfah; Gebel Barkal; Soleb;
Sardbit el Khadem, Sinai; Wady Maghárah, Sinai.
W. 1575
M. 1703
B. 1700
Aahmes (Amosis). The conqueror of the Hyksos, and founder
of a powerful monarchy.
B. 1666 Amenhotep or Amunoph (Amenophie) I. The boundaries of
Egypt extended.
W. 1532
B. 1633
Thothmes (Thothmosis) I. A great conqueror, who carried the
arms of Egypt into Syria. One of the results of his Asiatic
campaigns was the introduction of the horse into Egypt; at
any rate, the first representation of that animal occurs on a
monument of this reign.
W. 1505
B. 1600
Thothmes II. Reigned but a short time, in conjunction with his
sister and queen, Hatasoo.
Amennoohet, Hatasoo, Hashop, or Makara. Reigned alone for
some time, on the death of her brother, Thothmes II. The
sculptures on the walls of Dayr el Bahree at Thebes commemorate
a great expedition sent by her to the land of Punt.
She was succeeded by another brother, Thothmes III., who for
a short time reigned in conjunction with her.
W. 1495
B. 1600
Thothmes III. One of the most famous of Egyptian kings.
During his long reign Egypt, in the language of the hieroglyphs,
“placed its frontier where it pleased.” He carried his
victorious arms into Western Asia. The walls of his magnificent
temple at Karnak are covered with inscriptions recounting
his triumphs, and giving a list of the countries and
peoples conquered by him. His cartouche, with the name
Ramenkheper, occurs more frequently on remains of every kind,
from temples down to scarabæi, than that of any other monarch.
B. 1566 Amenhotep II.
B.C.
B. 1533 Thothmes IV.
W. 1430
B. 1500
Amenhotep III. Also a great conqueror. He appears to have
carried his victorious arms far into the Soodán. Numerous
monuments, especially at Luxor and Karnak, attest the length
and glory of his reign. The famous so-called Colossi, one of
which is celebrated in Greek and Roman tradition as the vocal
Memnon, bear his name.
W. 1408 Amenhotep IV. or Khooenaten. This king, under the influence
of his mother, a foreigner, changed the religion of Egypt, substituting
a Semitic god, Aten or Hormakhu (the sun's disk),
for the Theban Amen, and removed the seat of government
from Thebes to a city which he founded and called Khooaten,
the modern Tel-el-Amarna. He was succeeded by two or
three other kings holding the same religious opinions. It has
been conjectured, however, that Amenhotep IV. and Khooeuaten
were different persons.
Horemneb (Horus). On the accession of Horus as a legitimate
sovereign the old worship and capital were restored, and all traces
of his heretical predecessors destroyed as much as possible.
XIX. THEBAN. W. 1395; M. 1462; B. 1400.
Sân; Memphis; Abydus; Karnak; Koorneh; Luxor; Bayt el- Wellee;
Derr; Aboo Simbel.
W. 1395
M. 1462
B. 14000
Rameses I.
W. 1385
B. 1366
Sethi or Meneptah I. (Sethos). A great conqueror, who carried
his victorious arms far into Asia. He made the first canal
between the Red Sea and the Nile. Many monuments of his
magnificance exist in Egypt, especially at Karnak, Koorneh,
and Abydus; and his tomb (“Belzoni's”) is the most remarkable
in every way of the “Tombs of the Kings” at Thebes.
W. 1355
B. 1333
Rameses II. (the Great). The legendary Sesostris of the Greek
historians. His name appears on nearly every monument of
importance in Egypt, and the story of his conquests and deeds
of valour is recounted in numerous inscriptions and papyrus
rolls. He has also left memorials of his victories in some of
the countries he conquered, as, for instance, on the tablet
at the mouth of the Nahr el-Kelb near Beyrout. He erected
many splendid buildings, as the ruins still testify, during his
long reign of 67 years.
W. 1289
B. 1300
Sethi Meneptah II. Probably the Pharaoh of the Exodus. Two
or three other unimportant reigns conclude this dynasty.
XX. THEBAN. W. 1235; M. 1288; B. 1200.
Both sides of the river at Thebes.
W. 1235
M. 1288
B. 1200
Rameses III. The Rhampsinitus of Herodotus. He was the
last of the famous warrior kings of Egypt. Besides subduing
foreign nations, he also cultivated commercial relations with
them, and established intercourse by land and sea with the
countries on the shores of the Indian Ocean. His exploits
are recounted on the walls of the magnificent building erected
by him at Medeenet Háboo. His tomb is one of the finest
of the “Tombs of the Kings.”
The remaining kings of this dynasty all appear to have borne the name
of Rameses: the only ones of any note are Rameses VI. and IX. During
their reigns Egypt gradually declined in importance.
XXI. TANITE. W. 1095; M. 1110; B. 1100.
The history of this dynasty is somewhat obscure: a high priest of the god
Amen, named Hirhor, appears to have been the founder of it. During its
continuance Egypt was invaded by the Assyrians under Naromath (Nimrod),
whose son Shashank founded the next dynasty.
XXII. BUBASTITE. W. 981; M. 980; B. 966.
Apis Mausoleum at Sakkárah; Karnak; Silslis.
B.C.
W. 981
M. 980
B. 986
Shashank or Sheshonk I. (Sesonchis). The Shishak of the Bible,
who captured and pillaged Jerusalem (1 Kings xiv. 25-28;
2 (Chron. xii.). An inscription on one of the walls of the
Great Hall at Karnak commemorates this campaign against
Judah, and gives a list of the conquered towns and districts.
The remaining kings of this dynasty are of little importance. Many of
them bore Assyrian names, such as Osorkon (Sargon) and Takeloth (Tiglath);
and indeed they seem, from the Apis memorial stones at Sakkárah, to have
been little more than Assyrian satraps.
XXIII. TANITE. W. 903; M. 810; B. 766.
An obscure dynasty of petty kings, of whom there appear from the monuments
to have been three.
XXIV. SAITE. W. 812; M. 721; B. 733.
Manetho assigns one king, Bocchoris, called on the monuments Bokenranef,
to this dynasty, and gives him a short reign of six years. During the period
embracing the latter part of the XXIInd Dynasty, and the whole of the
XXIIIrd and XXIVth, the Ethiopians would appear to have gained the same
ascendency in the south of Egypt as the Assyrians in the north. A memorial
stone discovered at Gebel Barkal, near Meroë, gives an account of the conquests
in Egypt of the Ethiopian king Piankhi, whose successors founded the
next dynasty.
XXV. ETHIOPIAN. W. 773; M. 715; B. 700.
Karnak.
W. 773
M. 715
B. 700
Shabak or Sabaco Shabatak One of these two kings was probably the So
of the Bible (2 Kings xvii. 4).
W. 710
B. 693
Takaraka or Tirhakah. Called “king of Ethiopia” (2 Kings
xix. 9).
From some Assyrian cuneiform inscriptions found at Nineveh, it would
appear that during the rule of this dynasty Egypt was invaded by the
Assyriaus under Esarhaldon the gradson of Sennacherib, who defeated

Tirhakah and drove him out of Lower Egypt, and set up some petty kings in
his stead. On these revolting at Esarhaddon's death, and joining with
Tirhakah, the country was again invaded by Esarhaddon'a son, Assurbanipal
(Sardanapalus); and first Tirhakah, and then his successor, called in the
inscriptions Urdamaneh, were completely subdued, and Thebes taken. The
Assyrian king divided Egypt into twelve provinces, each with a governor,
one of whom was Psametik or Psammetichus, the founder of the next dynasty.
XXVI. SAITE. W. 664; M. 665; B. 666.
Sân; Apis Mausoleum at Sakkárah; Karnak; Luxor; Aboo Simbel.
B.C.
W. 664
M. 665
B. 666
Psametik (Psammetichus) I. First settlement of Greeks in
Egypt. An interesting inscription on the shin of one of the
statues of Rameses II. at Aboo Simbel records the pursuit
of Psammetichus, at the head of his Ionian and Carian soldiers,
of some native Egyptian troops who had deserted, owing to
jealousy of the favour shown to these mercenaries.
B. 612 Keco or Necho. Son of Psammetichus. He attempted to reopen
Sethi's canal between the Red Sea and the Nile, and
sent a flect to circumnavigate Africa. He made war against
the Assyrians, and defeated their ally Josiah, king of Judah,
at Megiddo, but was afterwards himself defeated by Nebuchadnezzar
at Carchemish.
B. 596 Psammetichus II. His reign was short and inglorious.
B. 591 Uahbra or Hophra (Apries). Son of Psammetichus II. He went
to the assistance of Zedekiah, when besieged in Jerusalem by
Nebuchadnezzar, but afterwards allowed the Babylonians to
capture the city and put an end to the kingdom of Judæa.
During his reign a large number of Jews settled in Egypt.
He was dethroned by one of his generals, Aahmes.
B. 572
B. 528
Aahmes (Amasis). During his long and prosperous reign Egypt
regained some of its former splendour. Aahmes allied himself
with the Greeks, and granted them many religious and
commercial privileges: among the latter being the removal
of the whole of the Mediterranean trade from Tanis, Mendes,
and Bubastis to the Greek port Naucratis, a few miles below
Saïs on the Canopic branch of the Nile. During his reign
the Persian empire was founded by Cyrus, whose son Cambyses advanced against Egypt, and, having defeated Amasis'
son and successor Psammetichus III. at Pelusium, captured
Memphis and became master of the country.
XXVII. PERSIAN. W. 525; M. 527; B. 527.
Oasis of El Khargeh; Rocks of Hammamat.
W. 525
B. 527
M. 527
Cambyses. This monarch's sway in Egypt is chiefly known by
his unsuccessful expeditions against Ethiopia and the Oases,
and his violent intolerance, according to the Greek historians,
of the Egyptian religion, though lately deciphered inscriptions
appear to prove the contrary.
521 Darius Hystaspes. Showed his reverence for the Egyptian
religion by building a temple to Amen-Ra at the Oasis of El
Khargeh; and his desire to promote the prosperity of the
country and conciliate the people by endeavouring to re-open

the canal between the Red Sea and the Nile, by re-establishing
the route between Coptos and the Red Sea, by replacing with
regular coins the rings and weights which had hitherto done
duty as money, and by appointing a descendant of the old native
kings, Amasis, satrap.
486 Xerxes I. The defeat of the Persians at Marathon by the Greeks
encouraged the Egyptians to revolt under Khabbash, but they
were soon reduced to submission and placed under the severe
government of Achaemenes, brother of Xerxes.
465 Artaxerxes Longimanus. The Egyptians again revolted under Inarus
and Amyrtæus, and, aided by the Athenians, were for a time
partially successful. During this period Herodotus visited Egypt.
424 Darius Nothos. After continued efforts the Egyptians succeeded in
regaining their independence under Amyrtæus, who was recognised
as King of Egypt.
XXVIII. SAITE. W. 414; M. 406.
This dynasty consisted of but one king, Amyrtæus, who only reigned six
years. The Egyptians, however, succeeded in maintaining their independence,
and another native king, Naifaurut (Nepherites), founded a new dynasty.
XXIX. MENDESIAN. W. 408; M. 399; B. 399.
Medeenet Háboo.
The duration of this dynasty was short, though it contained four kings—
Naifaurut (Nepherites) I.; Hakor (Achoris), who allied himself with Evagoras,
tyrant of Salamis, against the Persians; Psemaut (Psammuthis); and Naifaurut II. It ruled Egypt from Mendes in the Delta, and was succeeded by
another race of native princes from the neighbouring town of Sebennytus.
XXX. SEBENNYTE. W. 387; M. 378; B. 378.
Sakkárah; Karnak; Edfoo; Philæ.
Nectanebo I., who founded this dynasty, successfully repelled the attacks of
the Persians, and secured eighteen years' peace and tranquillity for Egypt;
but the attack was renewed during the reign of his successor Tachos by
Artaxerxes Mnemon, and only repelled through the aid of the Spartans under
Agesilaus. Tachos' son, Nectanebo II., after varying success, was finally conquered
by Artaxerxes Ochus, and Egypt again became a Persian province.
Plato visited Egypt during the reign of Nectanebo I.
XXXI. PERSIAN. 340.
The second domination of the Persians in Egypt was of short duration.
After Alexander had defeated Darius III. (Codomanus) at the Issus, he marched
upon Egypt and reached Memphis without opposition, the native Egyptians
and Greeks welcoming him as a deliverer.
XXXII. MACEDONIAN. 332.
Karnak.
During his short stay in Egypt Alexander the Great founded the city of
Alexandria, He showed his respect for the ancient religion by joining in the

worship of Apis, and by going to the Oasis of Ammon to lay his offerings as
the “son of the Sun” on the altar of Amen-Ra. At his death in 323, and the
division of the various provinces amongst his generals as lieutenants of his
titular successor Philip Aridæus, Egypt fell to Ptólemy, the son of Lagus, who
continued to administer the country as governor during the lifetime of Aridæus
and the young Alexander Œgus. On the murder of the latter by Cassander,
Ptolemy assumed the title of king.
XXXIII. GREEK or PTOLEMAIO. 305.
Alexandria; Sakkárah; Denderah; Thebes (both sides of the river); Erment,
Esneh; Edfoo; Kom Ombos; Philæ; Kalabsheh; and various other places in
Nubia.
B.C.
305 Ptolemy Soter. Though constantly at war, chiefly with Antigonus, for
the protection of his kingdom, Ptolemy did not neglect the prosperity
of the country, which greatly increased beneath his rule. Learning
and the arts also flourished, the foundation of the Museum and
Library at Alexandria attracting learned men from all parts of
the world. Ptolemy abdicated two years before his death in 284
in favour of his son.
286 Ptolemy Philadelphus. Continued the wise and beneficent rule of his
father. He erected the famous Pharos at Alexandria, founded the
cities of Berenice and Arsinoë on the Red Sea, and re-opened the
canal between the Red Sea and the Nile. Manetho's History of
Egypt and the Greek translation of the Old Testament known as
the Septuagint were undertaken by Philadelphus' command.
247 Ptolemy Euergretes I. Conquered the empire of the Seleucides and
extended his rule over the whole of Asia Minor. Egypt had now
reached the height of prosperity and power. All the learned and
accomplished men of the day flocked to Ptolemy's court. The
decree of Canopus or the stone of San was set up in the ninth
year of his reign.
222 Ptolemy Philopator. A cruel and self-indulgent king, under whose
rule Egypt began to decline. He roused himself to meet Antiochus
the Great, who had gradually reconquered from Egypt all the
provinces of Syria, and defeated him at the battle of Raphia, a
village on the borders of Egypt and Palestine. Founded the Temple
of Edfoo.
205 Ptolemy Epiphanes. During the minority of this king internal dissensions,
and the attacks of Antioohus the Great, induced his guardians
to invoke the protection of the Roman Senate, and Egypt henceforth
became in reality, though not in name, a Roman province. The
Rosetta Stone belongs to the year 196 B.C. in this reign.
182 Ptolemy Philometor. Philometor first reigned alone, and then jointly
with his brother Physcon I., and again alone, Physcon being
allotted by the Romans Cyrene as a separate kingdom. During
the reign of Philometor Egypt recovered a little of its former
greatness and prosperity. A Jewish temple was built at On by
Onias, the high priest of the Jews.
146 Ptolemy Euergetes II. (Physcon). A cruel tyrant and a debauchee. In
132 the Alexandrians revolted and made Cleopatra his sister and
divorced wife queen, Physcon retiring to Cyprus. He recovered his
throne in 125. “Pharaoh's bed” at Philæ was built in this reign.
117 Ptolemy Lathyrus. The son of Physcon; he first reigned jointly with
his mother Cleopatra Circe, but was afterwards banished, and his

brother Ptolemy' Alexander 1. put in his place. Alexander
murdered his mother, and was killed himself in a naval battle.
Lathyrus then reigned alone. Thebes rebelled against him and
was utterly destroyed.
81 Ptolemy Alexander II. Reigned. jointly with his step-mother Berenice;
murdered her, and was then killed himself.
81 Ptolemy Auletes or Dionysus I. An illegitimate son of Lathyrus.
Was driven from the throne in 57, but reinstated by Gabinius, the
Roman pro-consul in Syria. Diodorus visited Egypt during this
reign. The temple of Kom Ombos was finished, and those of
Esneh and. Denderah begun, in this reign.
52
48
47
45
44
42
31
30
Cleopatra. Was left by her father Autetes joint heir with her brother
Ptolemy Dionysus II., under the guardianship of the Roman Senate.
Is banished by Dionysus. Pompey, seeking refuge in Egypt after
his defeat at Pharsalia, is murdered with Dionysus' consent.
Cæsar, after a long struggle, in the course of which Dionysus was
drowned in the Nile, reinstated Cleopatra, but gave her as a
colleague another brother, also named Ptolemy, whom she murdered.
Cæsarion, her son by Cæsar, was then appointed
co-regent. On the death of Cæsar, Antony, who had summoned
the Queen to Tarsus, to answer for having allowed her forces
to take the side of Brutus and Cassius at Philippi, fell a victim
to her charms, and passed the greater part of the next nine
years with her in idleness. During this time Octavianus was
gradually rising in power, and on the Roman Senate declaring
Antony an enemy of the State, he marched against Egypt, defeated
the combined naval forces of Antony and Gleopatra at Actium,
and took Alexandria. Antony and Cleopatra both committed
suicide, and Egypt became a Roman province governed by prefects.

d. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE FROM B.C. 30 TO A.D. 640.

This includes the period, an uneventful one for Egypt, during which it
formed a part first of the Roman Empire as a whole, and then of the Roman
Empire of the East. The reign of the Roman emperors is sometimes reckoned
as a XXXIVth Dynasty, their style and title in the hieroglyphic inscriptions
being, besides Autocrator, Cæsar, Son of the Sun, and King of Upper and
Lower Egypt, as in the old days of independence.
B.C.
30
24
Augustus. Octavius in the year 27 became sole ruler of the Roman
Empire under the title of Cæsar Augustus. The government of
Egypt was given to a prefect, who was always to be of equestrian
rank: the first was Cornelius Gallus. The Julian year was brought
into use and other changes made, but the ancient religion was not
interfered with, and inscriptions at Denderah, Philæ, and Kalabsheh
prove that temple-building was still carried on.: The Ethiopians,
under Queen Candace, invaded Egypt, but were repulsed by Ælius
Galus, the third prefect, who marched as far as Napata, but
did not hold the country, fixing the boundary at Hiera Sycaminon,
seventy miles, or twelve schæni, beyond Syene (Assooán), whence
that part was called Dodecashænus. Strabo visited Egypt during
the prefecture of Ælius Gallus.
14 Tiberius. The name of this emperor is found on many Egyptian

monuments at Denderah, Thebes, Philæ, &c. Germanicus visited
Egypt, going as far as Syene.
37 Caligula. During this reign the Jews, who formed a large and
important part of the population of Alexandria, were persecuted;
Philo pleaded their cause against Apion, and Josephus wrote an
answer to the latter's attacks upon the Jews and their religion.
41 Claudius. The Jews regained the rights of citizenship taken from
them in the last reign. Greek and Roman merchants began to
use Egypt as a commercial station on the road to India, going by the
old route up the Nile to Coptos, and thence to Berenice on the Red
Sea. Lake Mœris, owing to the embankments being neglected,
began to dry up. The name of Claudius is found on many temples.
55 Nero. Christianity is said to have been introduced into Egypt during
this reign by St. Mark: according to Eusebius the first bishop was
named Annianus. Constant attacks on the southern frontier were
made by the Blemmyes, a tribe of Ethiopian Arabs.
68 Galba; Otho; and Vitellius followed one another within the space of a year.
69 Vespasian.U Visited Alexandria soon after being proclaimed emperor,
and in the following year despatched thence Titus on the expedition
against the Jews, which ended in the siege and capture of Jerusalem.
The temple of Esneh was finished in this reign.
79 Titus. The only trace of his reign is his name on one or two temples.
82 Domitian. Juvenal, banished to Syene during this reign, has left some
account of the condition of the country, and of its religious superstitions.
Domitian encouraged the Egyptian religion by building
temples to Isis and Serapis at Rome.
97 Nerva relieved the Jews from the poll-tax they had hitherto paid.
98 Trajan. The Jews revolted at Alexandria, but were put down, and
the poll-tax restored. The Red Sea and Nile canal was re-opened,
starting however from a different point of the river, Babylon above
Cairo instead of Bubastis, and was called the Amnis Trajanus.
117 Hadrian. Visited Egypt twice. On the first occasion was accompanied
by Antinous, who was drowned in the Nile; the emperor built
a city near the spot, called Antinoë or Antinoöpolis, some ruins of
which exist opposite Roda. His queen Sabina was with him
when he visited Thebes some years after; one of her attendants,
Julia Balbilla, has recorded the event on the foot of one of the
Colossi. To judge from his letter to Servianus (p. 134), Hadrian
had a poor opinion of the Egyptians.
138 Antoninus Pius. The survey of all the military roads of the Roman
Empire, known as the Itinerary of Antoninus, was made in this
reign. It included the roads of Egypt, six in number, of which
the two principal were from Babylon opposite Memphis along the east
bank of the Nile to Contra Pselcis in Nubia, and from Alexandria
along the east bank to Hiera Sycaminon in Nubia.
162
172
Marcus Aurelius. The Egyptian legions proclaim Avidius Cassius,
who had successfully quelled some revolted Arabs in the Delta,
emperor; before, however, the arrival of Aurelius at Alexandria,
they repented and put Avidius and his son Mæcianus to death.
The spread of Christianity is shown by the appointment of three
bishops under the Bishop of Alexandria, who henceforth is styled
Patriarch. The first patriarch was Demetrius.
181 Commodus. About this period the Coptic alphabet was formed by tho
addition to the Greek alphabet of six letters taken from the hieroglyphics.
A.D.
194 Pertinax. Niger. The latter had commanded the legions in Egypt
employed in repelling the incursions of the Saracens, as they were
already sometimes called, during the reign of Commodus, and was
proclaimed emperor by the Egyptians at the same time as Septimius
Severus; was defeated by the latter and killed.
196
204
Septimius Several. Visited Egypt, and granted several privileges to
the Alexandrians. Issued an edict forbidding any one from becoming
a Jew or a Christian. An active persecution followed, during which
the celebrated school of Catechists at Alexandria, which included
at that period Pantænus, Clemens of Alexandria, and Origen, was
broken up. Julius Africanus wrote his work on Chronology.
211 Caracalla. On the occasion of his visit to Egypt, he revenged himself on
the Alexandrians for the jokes they had made at his expense by
massacring all the youths of an age to bear arms. He also took
away many of their privileges, and favoured the native Egyptians,
giving some of them a seat in the senate, and cultivating their
religion by building a temple in Rome to Isis.
217 Macrinus was declared emperor by the Egyptians on the murder of
Caracalla, but he was soon defeated and killed by
218 Elagabalus, whom however the Egyptians would not for some time
acknowledge, and sanguinary contests took place in Alexandria.
222 Alexander Severus. This reign is chiefly remarkable for having witnessed
the foundation of the School of Neo-Platonists by Ammonius Saccas,
and his pupils Plotinus and Longinus. Heraclas succeeded Demetrius
as patriarch, and increased the number of bishops to twenty. During
the civil wars that took place after the death of Alexander, the
Egyptians appear to have acknowledged in turn the various pretenders that succeeded one another from 235 to 249.
249 Decius. The Christians in Egypt were much persecuted in this reign.
252 Gallus. Egypt was visited by a dreadful plague.
254 Valerian. Another persecution of the Christians took place.
260
265
268
Gallienus. On the death of his father Valerian, who was defeated and
put to death by Sapor king of Persia, Gallienus associated with
himself as emperor Odenathus, king of Palmyra, who as the ally
of Rome had for a long time guarded its eastern frontier. The
Egyptians, however, declared for Macrianus, and, after he had
been defeated and killed by Domitian, the general of Gallienus
for Æmilianus Alexander who met with the same fate. Gallienus
stopped the persecution of the Christians, and accorded them full
toleration. On the death of Odenathus, his queen Zenobia declared
war against Rome, and invaded Egypt, which she claimed as a descendant
of Cleopatra; but, though she defeated the Roman army,
she did not succeed in gaining Egypt, Claudius being acknowledged
emperor on the death of Gallienus.
270 Aurelian. On the death of Claudius, Zenobia renewed her attacks on
Egypt, and was for a short time successful, being acknowledged as
queen, and granted by Aurelian the rank of his colleague. He soon,
however, led his forces against her, and, having defeated her at
Emessa, took her prisoner to Rome. Her son Vaballathus was
allowed to rule for a short time, but was soon deposed and put to
death. The Egyptians then set up Firmus, a Syrian, who established
his court at Coptos and Ptolemaïs, but he likewise was conquered
and slain by Aurelian. Nero, the patriarch, built the church
of St. Mary at Alexandria, the first Christian church built in Egypt.
276 Frobus had been left by Aurelian in command of the army in Egypt,
and continued in that post during the regency of Aurelian's widow
Severina, and the short reign of his son Tacitus. On the death of
Tacitus, the Egyptian legions proclaimed Probus emperor. The
Blemmyes, who had obtained possession of Upper Egypt, were reduced
to obedience.
285
297
304
Diocletian. Upper Egypt rebelled under Achilleus, and its example
was followed by Alexandria. Diocletian himself marched against
the rebels, and took Coptos and Busiris. He, however, resolved to
fix the limit of the empire at Elephantine, and gave up the Dodecaschænus
to the Nobatæ. He afterwards besieged and took
Alexandria, and put Achilleus to death. The column known as
Pompey's Pillar was erected to commemorate his stopping the
pillage of the city by his troops. Issued his famous edict against
the Christians, and the persecution which followed was nowhere
more severe than in Egypt.
305
312
Galeriuts. Maximin. Licinius. These three reigned in the East while
Constantine Chlorus and his son Constantino reigned in the West.
The persecution of the Christians was continued. Arius, a presbyter
of Alexandria, first broached his heresy, and the Bible was translated
into Coptic during this period.
323
325
328
Constantino the Great. After defeating Licinius near Adrianople, Constantino became sole emperor. The Christians were released from
every civil and religious disability by the emperor, himself a
Christian. In consequence of the disputes as to the nature of Christ
between Alexander, patriarch of Alexandria, and Arius, the Emperor,
who had been appealed to, summoned the Council of Nice,
where the question whether the Son was of the same or only of
similar substance with the Father (homoousios, or homoiousios) was
disputed by Arius as the champion of the latter form of belief, and
Athanasius, a deacon of Alexandria, of the former. The decision in
favour of the Homoousians was embodied in what is known as the
Nicene Creed. After the foundation of Constantinople, Alexandria
began to decline in importance.
338 Constantius at first divided the empire with his two brothers Constantino II. and Constans, but afterwards reigned alone. He
favoured Arianism, and deposed Athanasius, who had been made
bishop of Alexandria. After a long struggle, George of Cappadocia
was elected bishop by the Arians, and the followers of Athanasius
were severely persecuted. The monastic system, which had been
first started in Egypt at the end of the last century, began now to
assume considerable proportions under the influence and example of
St. Antony.
361 Julian. Under the patronage of this emperor paganism regained its
ascendency for a short time. George of Cappadocia was murdered
by the Alexandrian mob, and Athanasius again returned to power,
only, however, to be banished again. He was recalled by Jovian,
but was once more sent away by
1364
373
Valens, who, however, afterwards allowed him to return and die in peace
at Alexandria. Monasticism had now reached its full growth. The
Thebaïd and the district of Nitria (Wady Natroon) swarmed with
hermits and anchorites, living either separately or in communities.
One of the most famous monasteries was that founded by Pachomius
and 1400 monks on the island of Tabenna, near Denderah, where
Rufinus afterwards found 3000 monks. The city of Oxyrhinchus, according
to the same authority, boasted of 10,000 monks and 20,000

nuns. In Nitria there were said to be 5000 hermits and 50 monasteries.
379 Theodosius I. in his first year issued an edict proclaiming Christianity
the religion of the Empire. The temple of Serapis at Alexandria
was destroyed, and the old Egyptian religion proscribed.
394 Arcadius. The Roman Empire was divided on the death of Theodosius,
Arcadius the elder son ruling the East from Constantinople, and
Honorius the younger the West from Rome. Violent disputes took
place in Egypt between those who affirmed and those who denied
that the Creator was of human form; the former party, who were
called Anthropomorphites, led by Theophilus, patriarch of Alexandria,
attacked and exterminated their opponents.
408
431
Theodosius II. Cyril succeeded Theophilus as patriarch of Alexandria.
Hypatia, the daughter of Theon, murdered by the Christians. The
doctrines of Nestorius are condemned at the Council of Ephesus,
chiefly through the exertions of Cyril.
450
451
453
Marcian. The doctrine of Eutyches, that Christ possessed but one
nature, the divine, and was in no respect human, is condemned by
the Council of Chalcedon. The decision was rejected by the
Egyptian Church, which adhered to the monophysite doctrine of
Eutyches. Upper Egypt was overrun by the Nobatæ or Nubians
in this reign; Silco, their king, has recorded his victories at Kalabsheh.
An inscription at Philæ shows that the worship of Isis and
Serapis was still practised more than seventy years after the edict of
Theodosius.
457 Leo. Leo the Younger.
474
482
Zeno. In order to put a stop to the quarrels between the two parties in
the Church, and the continual struggles between the patriarchs of
Alexandria nominated by the emperor, and those who had been
chosen by the people, the emperor issued an edict, called the Henoticon,
affirming the doctrine of the Incarnation, without however defining
the question of a double or single nature. Like most attempts at a
compromise, it proved a failure.
491
501
Anastasius. The Persians invaded Egypt; their retreat was followed
by a famine.
518 Justin I.
527 Justinian. A final separation took place between the Orthodox or
Melchite party and the Monophysites or Jacobites, who were afterwards
called Copts: each had its patriarch. The convents of
St. Catherine at Mount Sinai and of St. Paul and St. Antony in the
desert near the Red Sea were built probably as fortresses to repel the
attacks of the Arabs.
566 Justin II. Tiberius II. Mauricius. Phocas.
610
618
622
640
Heraclius. The Persians under Chosroes invaded Egypt and held
it for ten years, but, weakened by the rising of their Arab allies
in the year of the Hégira or Flight of Mahomet, they were driven
out by Heraclius. He in his turn soon had to make terms with
the followers of Mohammed, who, however, overran Syria and,
entering Egypt, rapidly made themselves masters of the country,
the capture of Alexandria by Amer or Amroo marking the end of
the Roman rule over Egypt.

e. CHBONOLOGICAL, TABLE FROM A.D. 640 TO THE PRESENT DAY.

This may be called the Mohammedan period. Egypt accepted the religion
of its Arab conquerors, and henceforth formed a part of the kingdom of the
Khalifs. Its history during this period is generally devoid of interest.
A.D.
640
641
Omar. Amroo, or Amer ibn el As, entered Egypt in 638 by way of
Pelusium, and advanced up the country to Memphis: thence, after
taking the neighbouring fortress of Babylon, he marched to Alexandria,
of which he became master after a siege of fourteen months.
On the date of his entry into the city—Friday, December 22, 640,
the first day of the Mohammedan month Moharram, and the New
Year's day of the twentieth year of the Hégira—Egypt ceased to be
a Roman province. Amer founded Fostat (Old Cairo ), and the
mosque there which bears his name; and restored the canal between
the Nile and the Red Sea.
644 Othman. Conquest of Africa begun by Abdallah ibn Saad, who had
replaced Amer as governor of Egypt.
656 Ali, the son-in-law of Mohammed, maintained a constant struggle for
the Khalifat with Moawiyeh. Assassinated 661.

OMMIADE DYNASTY.

661 Moawiyeh. After the death of Ali, and the abdication of his son
Hassan, Moawiyeh obtained undisputed possession of the Khalifate,
and founded the dynasty of the Ommiades, which reigned for nearly
100 years. Constantinople was besieged by the Arabs without
success.
680 Yezeed I., son of Moawiyeh. Hoseyn, Ali's second son, assuming the
title of Khalif, is defeated and killed at Kerbela.
683
684
Moawiyeh II., son of Yezeed, abdicated after a reign of six months, when
Merwán I., also of the family of Ommiah, was elected Khalif, and
reigned a short year.
684 Abd el Melek, son of Merwán, completed the conquest of Africa. Abd
el Azeez, his brother, made a Nilometer at Helwán, near Cairo.
First Arab coinage struck.
705
710
El Weleed, son of Abd el Melek. First Nilometer at the island of
Roda built by Usámeh ibn Zeyd. Spain conquered by the Moslems;
and India invaded by them.
714
732
Soolaymán, brother of El Weleed; Omar II., son of Abd el Azeez;
Yezeed II., son of Abd el Melek; Heshám, brother of Abd el Melek,
during whose reign the Saracens under Abd er Rahmán, were defeated
by Charles Martel; El Weleed II., son of Yezeed; Yezeed III. and Ibrahim, sons of El Weleed II. All these followed one another
in quick succession.
744 Merwán II., grandson of Merwán I., and last of the Ommiades. He
was defeated by Aboo 'l Abbas, and killed at Abooseer in the
Fayoom.

ABBASIDE DYNASTY.

749 Aboo 'l Abbas, a descendant of Abbas, an uncle of Mohammed's. Founded
the dynasty of the Abbasides, and put to death all the descendants of
Merwán I., with the exception of Abd er Rahmán, who escaped and
established the Ommiade dynasty at Cordova in Spain.
754
762
El Mansoor, brother of Abbas. Founded Bagdad, and made it the
capital of the Abbaside Khalifs.
775 El Mahdes Mohammed; El Hadee Moosa. Sons of El Mansoor.
786
800
Haroon er Rasheed, also a son of El Mansoor. The famous hero of
Arabian tales. Ibrahim ibn el Agleeb, governor of Egypt, declared
himself independent, and founded the Aglebite dynasty, of which the
capital was Kayrewan, 70 miles south of Tunis. The kingdom of
Fez was also founded by the Edrissites in this reign.
809 El Ameen, son of Haroon.
813 El Mamoon, son of Haroon. A great encourager of arts and sciences,
particularly astronomy. Visited Egypt and patronised the learned
men there. Caused Arabic translations of Greek authors to be
made. Opened the Great Pyramid in the hope of finding treasure.
840?
846
El Mautússim, brother of Mamoon. El Wathek, son of Mautússim.
Rome attacked by the Saracens.
847 El Motawúkkel, brother of Wathek. Built the Nilometer at the island
of Roda, now existing.
861 El Muntusser, son of Motawúkkel. El Mostain. El Mautuz.

TOOLOONIDE DYNASTY.

868
879
Ahmed ibn Tooloon. Governor of Egypt. Declares himself independent
of the Khalifs. Usurps the sovereignty of the country, and founds
the dynasty of the Tooloonides. Added the suburb of Kataeéa to
Fostat, and built the mosque that bears his name. Arab writers
celebrate his wealth, magnificence, and warlike successes.
884 Khamaraweeyeh, son of Tooloon. Built a palace at Fostat.
896 Asáker; Haroon, Sons of Khamaraweeyeh. Magházee Sheeban, son of
Tooloon. With him the dynasty ends.

ABBASIDE DYNASTY restored.

906 Muktuffee. Egypt subject to the Khalifs. Kataeea burnt.
908,
912
Muktuddir. During this reign Abayd Allah el Mahdee usurped the
government of Eastern Africa, and founded the dynasty of the
Fatemites at Tunis. He invaded Egypt, but was defeated by
Muktuddir.
932 El Káher. Er Rádee.

AKHSHEED DYNASTY.

936 Mohammed el Akhsheed. Usurps the government of Egypt.
948 Abool Kasem; Abool Hassan. Sons of Mohammed.
967 Kafoor; a black slave. Abool Fowáris, son of Abool Hassan.

FATEMITE DYNASTY.

969
973
El Moëz, or Aboo Tummeem, great grandson of Abayd Allah, the founder
of the Fatemite dynasty at Tunis. Sent Gowher with an army to
invade Egypt, which he took. Built the city of Masr el Káherah
(Cairo), and transferred the seat of government there, assuming at
the same time the title of Khalif.
975 El Azeez. Encouraged learning and science. Converted the mosque
of El Azhar at Cairo, which had been built by Gowher, into an
university.
996
1003
El Hakim succeeded his father Azeez at 10 years old. Believed

himself to be an incarnation of the Deity, and in conjunction with
Ed Derazi and Hamzeh founded the sect of the Druses. He
persecuted the Christians and plundered their churches. Many of
the Christians turned Musulmans. Built the mosque of Häkim at
Cairo. Was assassinated at the instigation, it is said, of his sister.
The followers of his sect, however, believe that he was withdrawn
from the world, and that he will reappear as the mehdee or last
Imám, to receive the adoration of all mankind.
1021 El Zahir, son of Hakim.
1036 Ez Mustansir, son of Zahir. The Turcomans, who had been gradually
rising in power since 980, attack Egypt, but are repulsed. In his
reign the King of Abyssinia is said to have stopped the waters of
the Nile, until the Coptic patriarch prayed him to cut the dam.
Fostat began to decay. El Mustansir rebuilt the three gates of
Cairo.
1094
1098
1099
El Mustálee, son of Mustanser. Takes Jerusalem and other Syrian
towns from the Turks; but is immediately deprived of them by the
Crusaders, under Godfrey de Bouillon.
1101 El Amer. El Háfuz. Ed Dháfer. El Fivéz.
1160 El Aadud. The intrigues of Shawer and Darghan for the office of
Vizier bring about the dissolution of the dynasty. The former is
assisted by Noor ed Deen, the ruler of Aleppo, with Kurdish troops
under Salah ed Deen (Saladin), but afterwards quarrels with them
and drives them out of Egypt with the assistance of Amaury.
king of Jerusalem, who in his turn endeavours to gain possession of
Egypt, and penetrates to Cairo, but Fostat is burnt on his approach
and he is compelled to retreat, the Kurds being again called in.
Shirkuh, a Kurd, becomes Vizier, and afterwards Salah ed Deen.

AYOOBITE DYNASTY.

1171
1187
1189
1191
Melek Yoosef Salah ed Deen (Saladin). On the death of Aadud, Saladin
usurped the sovereignty and founded the Ayoobite dynasty of Kurds.
He afterwards obtained possession of Syria on the death of Noor ed
Deen. Defeated the Crusaders at the battle of Hattin, overthrew
the Latin Kingdom of Jerusalem, and retook that city. Successfully
repulsed the Third Crusade under Frederick Barbarossa, Philip
Augustus, and Richard Cœur de Lion. Built the citadel and walls
of Cairo (1166).
1193 Melek el Azeez, second son of Saladin.
1200 Melek el Mansoor, son of Azeez; a child.
1200 Melek el Adel, brother of Saladin. Usurps the throne.
1218
1219
1228
Melek el Kámel, son of El Adel. The Crusaders. (Fifth Crusade)
penetrate into Egypt and take Damietta, but are obliged to abandon
it after being defeated at a spot where El Kámel was building a
new city, which he called Mansoorah (the Victorious). The
Emperor Frederick II. also obtains possession of Jerusalem and
other Syrian towns. Endeavoured, according to the Arab historians,
to demolish the Third Pyramid.
1238 Melek el Adel, son of El Kámel.
1239
1249
Melek es Sáleh, brother of El Adel. Louis IX, (St. Louis) of France,
at the head of the Sixth Crusade, captures Damietta, but is taken
prisoner at Mansoorah while marching on Cairo, and only released
on the evacuation of Damietta and the payment of 400,000 pieces
of gold.
1249 Melek el Moëzzem, son of Sáleh. Murdered by his father's Memlooks.
1250 Shegeret ed Door, widow of Sáleh. Abdicates after three months.
1250 Melek el Ashraf. Deposed by the Memlook Moëz.

BAHARITE MEMLOOK DYNASTY.

A.D.
1250 El Moëz, Eibeg et Toorkománee. Marries Shegeret, and is killed by
her from jealousy.
1256 El Mansoor, son of Moëz.
1259 El Mozuffer. Recovers Syria from the Tartars.
1260
1263
1270
Ez Záhir Baybers. A Memlook slave. Succeeds to the throne after
assassinating Mozuffer. Repels a fresh invasion of the Tartars in
Syria, takes Damascus, and extends his conquests over a great part
of Armenia. Brings the representative of the Abbaside Khalifs,
El Hakim be Omr Illah, who had been dethroned by the Mongols,
to Egypt, and recognises him as nominal Khalif. From this
period until the taking of Egypt by Sultan Selim, the Abbaside
Khalifs held nominal sway in Egypt. Death of St. Louis before
Tunis.
1277 Mohammed es Said; El Adel Beder ed Deen. Sons of Baybers.
1279
1286
El Mansoor Kalaoon. A Memlook slave. Continued the warlike
enterprises of Baybers by defeating the Mongolians at Homs,
recovering Damascus, which had been again lost, capturing Tripoli,
&c. At home his reign was celebrated by alternate acts of cruelty
and beneficence. In one of his fits of anger he delivered up Cairo
to sword and plunder for three days. In the eyes of native historians
the good acts of his reign have outweighed the evil. In
modern Cairo his name is handed down as that of a great physician.
Founded the Muristán at Cairo.
1290
1292
El Ashraf Khaleel, son of Kalaoon. Takes Akka (Acre) from the
Christians. The Khan Khaleel at Cairo built.
1293
1294
1299
1310
En Nasr Mohammed, son of Kalaoon. Succeeds at nine years old.
Is dethroned by Ketbogha, who usurps the sceptre, but is in his
turn overthrown by Hesám Lageen. On the assassination of the
latter, Nasr is restored. After ten years, however, he is again deposed,
and El Mozuffer Baybers proclaimed in his stead. Nasr
again returns, and, with the help of the Syrian Emeers with
whom he had taken refuge at Kerak on the Dead See, regains the
throne. The Arab historians celebrate him as a powerful and
wealthy monarch, whose territories extended from Tunis to Bagdad,
and who greatly increased the prosperity and well-being of Egypt
by making and restoring canals, encouraging agriculture, and fostering
the arts. Cairo was greatly extended and embellished by
him. He built the mosque of Nasr in the Citadel.
1341 Seven sons of Nasr followed him in quick succession—El Mansoor
Aboo Bekr; El Ashraf Kegek; En Nasr Shahab ed Deen; Es Saleh
Ismail; El Kámel Shaban; El Meduffer
; and
1348
1351
1357
Hassan, a minor at the time of his accession; he was deposed by Es
Sáleh
, but recovered his throne three years later. During the
interval a fearful plague devastated Egypt. Built the mosque
at Cairo which bears his name. Was again dethroned and assassinated.
1361 El Mansoor Mohammed, grandson of Kalaoon.
1363
1365
El Ashraf Shaabán, great grandson of Kalaoon. Ordered the Shereefs
or descendants of Mohammed to wear green turbans. Peter de
Lusignan, king of Cyprus, besieges Alexandria, but fails.
1377 El Mansoor Ali. Es Sáleh Hágee, the last of the dynasty.

CIRCASSIAN or BORGHITE MEMLOOK DYNASTY.

A.D.
1382
1389
1393
Ez Zahir Berkook. A Circassian slave, who deposed Hágee and
usurped the throne. Was dethroned by the Emeers, but regained
his power the following year. He built the tomb mosque of
Berkook.
1399
1405
En Nasr Fareq, son of Berkook. Is engaged in continual warfare
with the Tartars, whom he finally defeats, and in putting down
repeated revolts of the turbulent Memlooks. Is put to death by
1412
1420
El Moaiyud. Many sumptuary laws enacted against the Christians
and Jews. Revolts in Syria successfully put down. Built the mosque
known by his name, at Cairo.
1421 El Meduffer Ahmed. Ez Záhir Tatar. Es Sáleh Mohammed.
1422 El Ashraf Bursabey. Attacked Cyprus and took the king, John III.,
prisoner, but released him on the promise of an annual tribute.
Concluded a peace with the Tartars. Gained possession of Jeddah,
the port of Mecca, and monopolised the Indian trade there.
1438 Abd el Azeez. Ez Záhir Gekmeh.
1453 El Mansoor Othman. El Ashraf Eenál. Constantinople taken by the
Turks.
1461 El Moaiyud Ahmed. Ez Záhir Khoshkadem.
1467 Ez Záhir Bolbey. Ez Záhir Tumr Boghá.
1468
1490
El Ashraf Kaitbey. A Memlook of Ez Záhir Gekmeh. Elected by
the Emeers. After a successful war against the Turks under
Sultans Mahmood and Bajazid, Kaitbey concluded a treaty of peace
with them. Cyprus taken by the Venetians, who, however, continued
to pay the tribute to Egypt. Is compelled by the riotous
Memlooks to abdicate in favour of his son. There are numerous
monuments of his reign in Cairo.
1496 En Nasr Mohammed. Ez Záhir Kansooh.
1500 El Ashraf Ganbalát. El Adel Tomán Bey.
1501
1508
El Ghóree Khansooh. A Memlook of Kaitbey. Was over 60 years of
age when chosen to succeed Tomán. Built the mosque and
schools at Cairo that bear his name, and rebuilt in stone Saladin's
wooden aqueduct. Encouraged learning. Fitted out an expedition
against the Portuguese in order to injure their trade with India by
the Cape route. Entered into correspondence with the Doge of
Venice with the view of making the . Was defeated by
the Turks under Selim I. near Aleppo, and slain.
1517 El Ashraf Tomán Bey, nephew of Ghóree. After the defeat and
death of Ghóree, Selim advanced on Egypt, and, after defeating
Tomán at Heliopolis, entered Cairo. Tomán was taken and
hanged outside the Báb ez Zuweyleh. With him ended the
Memlook dynasty, and Egypt became a Turkish Pashalic.
1543 Though Selim abolished the monarchy, he left the aristocracy of the
Memlooks on certain conditions; the chief of which were—annual
tribute, obedience in matters of faith to the decisions of the Mufti
of Constantinople, and the insertion of the name of the Sultan of
the Osmanlis in the public prayers and on coins. Selim also compelled
the lost scion of the Abbaside Khalifs, El Motawúkkel, to
leave Cairo and reside at Constantinople; and at his death
the Sultans of Constantinople assumed the title of Khalif.
1767
1773
The history of Egypt for the next 250 years is almost entirely without
interest. The Turkish Pashas who nominally governed the country

soon became subordinate to the Memlook Beys, one of whom, All
Bey
, declared himself independent, conquered Arabia and Syria,
and allied himself with Russia against the Turks. At his death
his son-in-law, Aboo Dahab, was recognised by the Sultan as
ruler of Egypt. The chief power after Aboo Dahab's death was
shared by Murad Bey and Ibrahim Bey, who opposed
1798
1799
1800
1801
Napoleon Buonaparte when he landed at Alexandria (July 1) for the
purpose of occupying Egypt. They were defeated, however, at the
Battle of the Pyramids (July 21), and Napoleon entered Cairo.
Immediately after (Aug. 1), the French fleet was destroyed by
Nelson at the Battle of the Nile. Napoleon, after completely breaking
the power of the Memlooks, left Egypt on his Syrian expedition,
and on his return to France appointed General Kleber as commander
in Egypt. Kleber signed the convention of El Areesh (Jan. 24),
for the evacuation of Egypt by the French; but the convention
being broken, he marched on Cairo, defeated the Turks at
Heliopolis (March 20), and retook the city. He was assassinated
(June 14), and General Menou succeeded to the command. The
French were defeated by the English under Sir Ralph Abercromby
at the battle of Alexandria (March 13), and driven out of Egypt.
After the French occupation, Egypt once more fell a prey to the
Memlooks and anarchy till the Porte appointed
1806
1811
1823
1831
1832
1833
1839
1841
Mohammed Ali, a Roumelian, born at Cavala in 1768, Pasha of
Egypt. He established his power by the massacre of all the
Memlook beys in the citadel of Cairo. Various expeditions, under
his sons Toossoon and Ibrahim Pasha, were undertaken against
the Wahabees in Arabia, and the countries bordering the Nile as
far as Khartoom, which he founded. He also endeavoured to
ameliorate the condition of the country by making new canals
and embankments, improving the system of agriculture, founding
schools, and introducing various forms of European civilization.
During the Greek war he sent troops to aid the Turks, but soon
afterwards declared himself independent of the Porte and invaded
Syria, which was quickly overrun by the Egyptians under his
son Ibrahim, and the Turkish fleet totally destroyed at Konieh
(Iconium). By the intervention of the European Powers his victorious
career was stopped, and a peace signed at Kutayah in
which he acknowledged the suzerainty of the Porte. The war
again breaking out, Ibrahim defeated the Turks at Nezib and
menaced Constantinople, but was compelled to quit Syria by the
European Powers. Mohammed Ali then acknowledged the suzerainty
of the Porte, and in return the Sultan Abdul Medjid made
the government of Egypt hereditary in his family, subject to the
payment of an annual tribute. Owing to his mind failing, Mohammed
Ali resigned, and was succeeded by
1848 Ibrahim, his son, who died after reigning 4 months.
1849 Abbas, son of Toossoon and grandson of Mohammed Ali. Soon after
his accession his grandfather died, August 2, 1849. A cruel and
avaricious ruler, who was murdered by his own slaves.
1854
1859
1861
Said, son of Mohammed Ali. Endeavoured to carry on the work of
reform and progress begun by his father. Completed the railway
from Alexandria to Cairo, and supported the scheme for making
the , which was begun in his reign. Encouraged the
discovery and preservation of the old monuments of the country, and
founded the Boolak Museum. Visited England. Died Jan. 18, 1863.
1863
1866
1867
1869
1871
1873
1876
1878
1879
Ismail, son of Ibrahim and grandson of Mohammed Ali. Born Dec.
31, 1830. Continued the work of progress and reform by constructing
railways, canals, harbours, and telegraphs, organizing a
postal system, increasing the number of schools, &c. Obtained
from the Porte, in return for additional tribute, the right of
succession to his children in the direct line, and the title of
Khedive. Visited England July 1867. The opened
Nov. 19, 1869. Completion of the docks at Suez. The new harbour and quays at Alexandria begun. The Khedive obtains a
firman from the Porte granting him further privileges, and rendering
him almost independent, these concessions being paid
for by a fresh addition to the tribute, which was raised to nearly
700,000l. Owing to the rapidly increasing debt of the country,
which threatened insolvency, the revenue and expenditure
were placed under the control of a commission, chiefly European.
The Khedive surrendered his private estates towards meeting the
requirements of the debt, and consented to the appointment of an
English Minister of Finance (Mr. Rivers Wilson) and a French
Minister of Public Works (M. de Blignières). These, however, he
soon dismissed, as well as the members of the Financial Commission.
The European governments in consequence required tho Porte to
dethrone him.
1879 Tewfik , eldest son of Ismail, succeeded on the deposition of his father.
1880 Appointment of the Commission of Liquidation to prepare a law for
the settlement of the Egyptian debt.
1881 Military Revolt. In December the Chamber of Notables expressed a
wish to examine the Egyptian budget. This was refused, and the socalled
National movement commenced.
1882 The situation became more strained. On the 20th May the French and
English Fleets entered Alexandria. On the 11th July the forts of
Alexandria were bombarded by the English fleet. This was followed
by the invasion of Egypt by an English army and the occupation
of Cairo on the 14th September. About the same time the
rebellion in the Soudan became serious.
1883
1884
Hicks Pasha was defeated in Kordofan, and a force was sent under
Baker Pasha to Suakin. In December the English Government
ordered the Khedive to abandon the whole of the Soudan. Sheriff
Pasha refused to comply, and was succeeded by Nubar Pasha as
Prime Minister. An English expedition was sent to Suakin,
which defeated the rebels near that place and returned to Cairo.
General Gordon was sent to Khartoum. In August it was decided
to send an English expedition up the Nile to assist Gordon.
1885 The English force having failed to arrive in time, Khartoum fell on
the 26th January, and Gordon was killed. The whole Soudan was
then given up from Wady Halfa to the South.
1886 Reforms carried out in Egypt under English officials. The English
troops remained in occupation.
1887 Sir H. Drummond Wolff sent to Constantinople to conclude a convention
with the Porte respecting the occupation of Egypt, but the
Sultan declined to sign it.

17. HIEROGLYPHS.

a. METHOD OF WRITING.

Like the Chinese system of writing, that of the ancient Egyptians must at
first have been purely symbolic. But in the earliest inscriptions yet discovered,
it is already something more. Picture-writing is so far retained
that a determinative assists the reader in every sentence. But grammatical
inflections, and many ideas very far abstracted from mere representation of
tangible objects, are clearly expressed. How long it took to grow we know not;
but the few writings of the time of the IIIrd Dynasty extant show that the
power of recording had even then reached a point far removed from infancy.
In the great days of the XIIth, XVIIIth, and XIXth Dynasties a further
development took place, and poetry appears in many inscriptions, hymns, epics,
odes, and even ballads or lyric pieces, like the song of the ox-driver on the
walls of a tomb at El Kalh (p. 514). Under the Ptolemies many letters were
added, and many sounds represented, foreign to the original forms; and we
find the hieroglyphs still in use for religious inscriptions as late as the reign
of the Emperor Decius, A.D. 250. Within a very few years from this time,
however, the knowledge of hieroglyphs was entirely lost, and the most
absurd guesses were made as to their meaning by mediæval and modern
authors before, and even in, the present century. The preservation of the
ancient language in the so-called Coptic dialect was eventually the means of
placing the key to the whole system in the hands of an Englishman, Thomas
Young, who in his Account of some Recent Discoveries in Hieroglyphical Literature (London, Murray, 1823) amply but modestly vindicated his claim to
priority. This fact should not be forgotten, as, though Young did but find
the key for others to use, those who borrowed it from him have for the
most part been content to ignore his labours altogether.
The proximate cause of Young's discovery was undoubtedly the capture in
1799 of a fragmentary inscription found at Rosetta by some French engineers,
and taken to England by the English fleet. But it was not until 1814 that
Dr. Young made his first communication on the subject to the Society of
Antiquaries, and offered a complete translation of the three inscriptions—
Greek, enchorial, and hieroglyphic—which appear on the black basalt slab now
in the British Museum. He afterwards deciphered various other inscriptions,
more or less correctly, in the three forms of Egyptian writing described below.
A particular account of the discovery was circulated on the Continent after
the peace in 1815, but was not generally published till 1821. Dr. Young
sent an early copy to M. Champollion, who in 1822 issued a translation in his
own name, with but slight acknowledgment of the labours of our ocuntryman.
From the time of Young and Champollion progress has not been rapid.
But Dr. Birch's Egyptian Dictionary, and the Grammar of Dr. Brugsch-Bey,
with other works of a scientific character, have rendered the study
comparatively easy, and within the last few years many important texts
have been translated. Dr. Lepsius, the Vicomte de Rougé, and M. Mariette-Bey,
with the learned Egyptologists already named, may be mentioned as
among those who have done most to clear the way.
In addition to the pure hieroglyphs, two developments of them, the hieratic and demotic or enchorial, have been referred to above. The hieratic letters
stand to the hieroglyphs as our manuscript stands to print. In the demotic
the early type is still further obscured: it came into use before the Persian
Conquest, and was largely employed by the native merchants of the time of
the Greek domination. But the hieratic occurs on papyrus as early as the

time of the XIIth Dynasty: from it, and therefore indirectly from the hieroglyphs,
the Greek Alphabet was derived; and our so-called Arabic numerals
represent some archaic forms of the same system.
In architectural inscriptions only the pure hieroglyphs were employed.
Upwards of 3000 signs have been identified. They may be divided into two
classes, as indicated by their origin in picture-writing, namely: 1. Figures; 2. Sounds. The signs which stand for sounds in one place may be used for
complete words or ideas in another, but the use of Determinatives assists the
reader. The writing is generally from right to left, but often, even in
very early examples, the reverse way, and often, like Chinese, in columns, to
suit purposes of architectural decoration. The direction is easily found by
the rule that all animals represented face towards the commencement of the
line. The best and simplest forms, both of writing and of grammar, are the
earliest. The letters are large, open, and clearly cut in the inscriptions on the
statues of Ra-hotep and Nefert in the Boolak Museum, the oldest sculptures so
far identified. The style is little changed as late as the time of Thothmes III.
Under Rameses II. it becomes smaller and closer, but perhaps more delicate.
Under the Ptolemies it has lost much of its beauty, is stiff, conventional, and
crowded. The language had, of course, changed in the interval, and the
difficulty of deciphering a recent inscription is very much greater than that
of reading the plain characters of an earlier páriod.
The principal signs employed may be briefly enumerated, with special
reference to the early Pharaonic cartouches. The name of a king is marked
by being included within an oval line. In later inscriptions the determinative,
which gives a clue to the name, is the figure of a royal personage
with his sceptre. The double kingdom of Upper and Lower Egypt is
denoted by a bee, : the king by a leek—suten, . Sometimes the form
used is the word neb or lord, represented by a bowl and followed
by a double crown , and three lines signifying plurality . The
king's name is within the oval: thus the builder of the Great Pyramid
Shoofoo, is represented by a disk for the letter sh, a quail for co (the
sound of that bird's cry), an eared snake or cerastes for f, and another
quail, all within the oval. The cartouche of Chafra or Khafra is more complicated.
It begins with the name of the sun-god Ra, represented by a globe : this
symbol forms a syllable in the names of many Egyptian kings, and is sometimes
read at the beginning and sometimes at the end of the name, though
its position is usually at the head of the cartouche. Next comes the double
crown cha or kha, followed by the snake for f. Thus we have the word
Ra-cha-f, but it is generally read Chafra, in accordance with its Greek rendering,
Chephren. The same principle applies to several other names. After the
XIth Dynasty we find a system of double names, one of them a title assumed
on ascending the throne; and kings go in history sometimes by one name,
sometimes by the other. All the kings of the XXth Dynasty bore the name
of Rameses, and their cartouches are distinguished by the form of the private
name. The names of the second king of the XIIth Dynasty, being easily spelled
out, may afford an example. In the first cartouche we have the globe
for Ra; a beetle for cheper or kheper, signifying the Creator; and two arms
and hands , a very common symbol for the letter k, or the syllable ka,
which appears to mean “the living image,” or “representative.” Here then
we find the king's formal title, Ra-kheper-ka, “the representative of the Sun,
the Creator.” In the second oval we have his private name: U or O, s,

r, t, s, n, Usertasen or Osirtasen. Visitors to Heliopolis
will find these cartouches on the obelisk.
Next to the titles of kings those of great personages will be the most
important. Under the early dynasties a tomb usually contains a portrait of
the deceased, with his name and rank written over his head. At Sakkárah,
for instance, the tomb usually visited is that of a functionary whose name is
thus written . The upper letter answers to our th; the two lower ones,
written together, seem to have borne a sound very similar to our y, or
the Dutch ij. The name will thus stand Thy. It is, however, owing
to the manner in which it became first known, usually written Tih oI
Ti, in accordance with the nearest French form. One more example
may be given from the early sculptures. All visitors to the Boolak
Museum admire the remarkable seated statue of a lady taken from a tomb
at Maydoom. The back of the seat bears this inscription, which is the more
interesting as perhaps the earliest piece of writing now extant:
Here we have first a group of four signs which convey that the lady was
“cousin to the king,” suten resht. Many epitaphs contain this form. It
is appended, for instance, to the name of Tih's wife. In other words,
he was granted by his master a bride from the royal house. It occurs
also with the names of many priests and councillors, and will be
easily recognised by the visitor. The letters forming the abbreviated
group are separately, suten, r, sh, t. Next we have a group
of four letters with a determinative of sound and one of sense: N, a
letter which in a shortened form still holds a place in our alphabets; the
crowned snake or cerastes , which written fast forms our f; the mouth
r; the polisher t; n, f, r, t. By the side of the first three is the nefer,
or nofre, a guitar, an object of very frequent occurrence in the spelling of old
names. It signifies, by a play upon the words, “grace,” “beauty,” or “goodness,” or all combined, and later came to be used for “a girl,” spelled as here
with the assistance of the feminine form t, making up the word Nefert. Below
is the sitting figure, determinative of the idea of womanhood.
From these examples, purposely selected for their simplicity and antiquity,
the reader will derive some idea both of the difficulties in the way of hieroglyphic
interpretation and the helps through which they have been surmounted.

List of the more common Hieroglyphic forms.

  • a.
  • a.
  • a.
  • i.
  • i.
  • p.
  • k.
  • k.
  • k.
  • f.
  • h.
  • l.
  • m.
  • n.
  • r.
  • s.
  • s.
  • t.
  • th.
  • t or d.
  • z.
  • kha.
  • her.
  • ka.
  • mer.
  • tum.
  • am.
  • tat.
  • nefer.
  • sen.
  • us or os
  • neter.
  • kheper.
  • hotep.
  • nen.
  • u.
  • b.
  • uten.
  • ab.
  • ha.
  • h.
  • sh or kh.
  • as.
  • hor.
  • ab.
  • sh.
  • sh.
  • mes.
  • men.
  • teser.
  • ar.
  • peh.
  • nem.
  • mer.
  • nub.
  • neb.
  • ra.
  • ankh.
  • menkh.
  • setep.
  • ba.
  • sebek.

Deities used as Hieroglyphs.

  • Amen.
  • Ptah.
  • Ma.
  • Ra.
  • Set.
  • Asar or Osiris.

Determinatives.

  • (Crown of) Lower Egypt.
  • (Crown of) Upper Egypt.
  • Upper and Lower Country.
  • a man.
  • a woman.
  • a husbandman.
  • a soldier.
  • a child.
  • a foreigner.
  • oh!
  • a proper name.
  • a priest.
  • a priest.
  • a day.
  • a month.
  • a region.
  • hills.
  • an ancestor.
  • sorrow.
  • water.
  • goddess.
  • god.
  • skin, a quadruped.
  • night.
  • roll or book, literature.
  • country.
  • district.
  • field.
  • heart, centre.
  • tomb, burial.
  • a house.
  • fort.
  • vegetation.
  • tree.

b. HIEROGLYPHIC NAMES OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL KINGS.

The list here given of the names of kings as sculptured on the monuments
is necessarily incomplete, but it includes all the principal rulers of Egypt
from Menes of the Ist Dynasty to the Emperor Commodus, soon after whose
time the practice of sculpturing inscriptions in hieroglyphs ceased.
A king's name is always enclosed in an elliptical frame with a base called
by Champollion a cartouche, by others an oval or shield. As has been already
explained, after the earlier dynasties each king, in addition to his own name,
assumed a royal name on ascending the throne. In the following list the
cartouche with the private name is placed first, and that with the royal name

second. The rendering of the royal name is placed underneath the double
cartouche; that of the private name, when given, above it.

18. OLD EGYPTIAN RELIGION.

a. GENERAL SKETCH.

The earliest Egyptian religion of which we know anything may be defined
as a very simple form of Pantheism. God was seen in all nature. Many
animals were especially sacred. The king was an incarnation of God, and
was worshipped both in life and after death. The sun was looked upon as a
visible manifestation of the deity. True, there were many divinities and many
forms, but a great majority can be accounted for as examples of the symbolism
in which the Egyptian mind delighted; and if we knew enough, it is probable
by analogy that all might be thus resolved. The oldest sculptures show no
acts of adoration or of sacrifice, except those of worship at the shrine of a

deceased ancestor or relative: yet Manetho tells us of the establishment of
the worship of the sacred bulls at Memphis and On, by Kakaoo, of the
IInd Dynasty; and the bull was already venerated as a symbol of productive
force, if we may trust the story which attributes the building of his burial-place
to Ouenephes, the fourth king of the Ist Dynasty. The bull Apis,
at Memphis, was a symbol, or perhaps rather an incarnation, of Ptah, the
creator of the world; the bull Men, at On, was the earthly representative in
like manner of Ra, the Sun.
What the religion of the next period was may perhaps partly be gathered
from the inscription on a tablet discovered near the Great Pyramid, which
contains the names of a considerable number of the divinities worshipped in
the time of the IVth Dynasty. It is the copy of a decree made by Shoofoo.
The king is called the “living Horus,” and mention is made by name of Isis,
Osiris
, the Sphinx , and Athor, and representations added of Thoth, Nephthys,
Selk, Ptah, Pasht, Tum
, besides several forms of Horus and Isis. We are
here at once introduced to an extended pantheon, which even includes Khem,
the god afterwards so devotedly worshipped at Thebes. The local gods
were received at this period by all Egypt. Yet nearly all the members
of the list, long as it is, may be resolved into the two deities, Ptah
and Ra, with the addition of Isis, or the Moon. The Creator, called by
various names in various places, and venerated under various forms, was
Ptah. The vivifier, the daily renewer of life, was Ra, the Sun, whether
worshipped as on the horizon (Harmachis, of whom the Sphinx was the
visible representative), in midday strength (Ra), at sunset (Tum), during the
hours of darkness (Osiris, in the lower world), or by the addition of the mere
surname “Ra” to the title of any other god, or to that of the king himself.
Within the period known as the Early Empire (Dynasties I. to X.), the worship
of these gods was alluded to but sparingly in sculptures and paintings.
Votaries making offerings are shown very early, but no god's name is mentioned;
and the scenes made so familiar by the carvings in the tomb of Tih,
and in the painted grottoes of Beni Hassan, are domestic and agricultural,
anything but religious. Shoofoo may have worshipped Osiris, Isis, Ptah,
&c., separately and collectively; but there are many indications, though
chiefly of a negative kind, that the majority of his subjects worshipped but
one god in each place, and applied different names in different places to the
some divinity. Ptah and Ra, Osiris, Isis and Nephthys, Horus, Anubis and
Thoth, are so far hardly to be distinguished from symbolic names for different
parts of the same idea of one universal God, who formed all things out of
nothing, who makes of dead nature a living being, who rules the day and the
night, who combats evil and loves the right, who controls the domestic happiness
and the national history of men, who is typified by the most prolific, the
most beautiful, the most powerful, the most beneficent among visible beings,
and is worshipped in the sun, the moon, the king, the hawk, the bull, or
whatever else recalls the attribute to which in his devotion the suppliant
would turn. On the oldest coffin now extant, that of Menkaoora or Mycerinus,
there is a prayer to Noot, the Heaven, and Osiris is named. On the coffin of
Shoofoo-ankh, Anubis is similarly invoked. Under the VIth Dynasty the
monuments make more and more frequent mention of Osiris, who comes to
be regarded as the judge of the dead, as well as “lord of the lower world;”
and in a tablet at Boolak of this period there occurs for the first time a
form of expression which afterwards became so famous: Hapi, priest of the
temple attached to the pyramid of King Teta, is described as “justified by
Osiris.”
A few centuries later the legendary assumes greater prominence. The arts,
which began to revive under the XIth Dynasty, revived religion with them,
but no longer in the old and simple form. The unruffled calm of the isolated

nation, as it was under the early kings, is disturbed. The contact of Egyptian
symbolism with the mystic theologies of the East produces a new phase of the
old story of creation. Under the XIIth Dynasty not only are there many new
gods, but legends are attached to the names of the older gods. Horus becomes
the offspring of (the sun and moon) Osiris and Isis, begotten after the death
(sunset) of his father, and all the changes of seasons and days are made into
divinities and have their appropriate myths. To many local objects of worship
the name of Ra was added; and while the gods of Memphis and On
received a renewed worship, the gods of Upper Egypt, Khem and Knum,
the generator and the establisher, begin to come into greater prominence.
But on the monuments Osiris is the most important deity. To him, rather
than to the dead, the friends and family offer their sacrifices. A court is
formed for him. Thoth, the recorder, Anubis, the watcher, Ma, the impersonation
of truth, and others assist in judgment on the soul. The name of the
deceased is constantly accompanied with the formula, “justified,” or “the
Osirian.” In one monument of the XIIth Dynasty, the whole of a family,
a majority of whom must have been alive at the time, are thus, by a kind
of anticipation not unknown in later times, proclaimed just. Under this
dynasty it was that the great temple of Ra at On (Heliopolis) was
rebuilt, and the obelisk first used as a symbol at once of the sun's rays and
of the generative power by which in successive ages the life of men and beasts
is carried on. Already, and even under the later kings of the XIth Dynasty,
the name of Amen, who may be looked upon as a local divinity at Coptos,
and later at Thebes, was associated with the lordship of a distant and mysterious
land in the east from which the gods were said to have come; and the
misshapen Bes, a kind of local Ptah, is honoured as a satellite of the oldest
godhead of Punt.
The great Book of the Dead, or funereal ritual, came into existence about
this time, and gradually grew into its enormous development in the time of
the Ptolemies. The most complete copy of this book, which is at Turin,
contains no fewer than 165 chapters, and describes the trials of the soul after
death. A portion of it, written on papyrus, or engraved on the coffin,
occurs in every burial under the New and Later Monarchies. The morality
inculcated is of an elevated kind, and reminds the reader in many places of
the Mosaic law. On the other hand, the purgatory of souls and the complicated
arrangement of the different stages of progress remind him rather of a
mediæval “miracle play,” or of Dante's Inferno.
With the XVIIIth Dynasty a second great revival took place. Though
the kings of the XIIth Dynasty had already built the early portion of the
temple of Amen-Khem at Karnak, it was under the Thothmes and Amunophs
or Amenhoteps that the worship of Amen assumed its full proportions.
Now legends begin to crowd thick around the names of the gods. Amen is
sometimes united with Ra, sometimes with Ptah, sometimes with Osiris,
often with Khem. The name Amen points to the idea of one “invisible,”
all-pervading god; and he was held to be united with every other god as
each attribute came into prominence. The successes of the early kings of
this dynasty against the Hyksos, and other causes of the same kind, spread
the worship of Amen over all Egypt, though at Memphis Ptah was still
regarded in one legend as the father of Amen; and at On, Ra and Amen
were identified. Towards the close of the XVIIIth Dynasty, Amunoph IV.,
influenced probably by the Shemitic connections of his family, threw off
allegiance to Amen and his hundred subject gods, and, devoting himself to
the worship of the sun alone (Aten or Adon-ai), assumed the name of
Khoo-en-aten (the sunshine, or “reflection of the sun's disk”), and built a
new capital at Tel el-Amarna, half-way between hebes and Memphis. But
the old worship was soon restored; and under the great kings of the XIXth

and XXth Dynasties, Amen and all his train of subordinate or competing
gods are again established.
From this time the religion of Egypt may be looked upon as more or less a
fixed and homogeneous system. Hadrian and Diocletian worshipped Amen
as Rameses and Amasis had done, under the forms of Apis and Horus,
Ptah, Ra and Osiris, Athor and Isis, according as they visited Memphis or
Heliopolis, Thebes or Denderah, the Cataracts or the mouths of the Nile.
Under the XIXth Dynasty began the worship of local triads, a foreshadowing
of the great Christian doctrine, which in after-ages took such hold of the
Egyptian mind, and produced, in the person of the Egyptian Athanasius,
its strongest champion. At Thebes, Amen-Khem and Amen-Ra were
associated sometimes with Horus and Athor, sometimes with Maut and
Khonsoo. Osiris and Isis are accompanied sometimes by Nephthys, sometimes
by Horus. At Denderah, where Isis was worshipped as Athor, she was associated
with Tum and Maut. At Abydos, the local triad was Osiris, Isis, and
Horus; at Elephantine, Kneph, Anouké, and Bes; at Silsilis, Ra, Ptah, and
Hapi or the Nile. The great Osirian myth is more and more elaborated.
Apis is recognised as the representative of Osiris, incarnate by the special
visitation of Ptah. Horus, too, the god of Edfoo, has his representative, the
sacred kestrel (windhover), which, hovering between heaven and earth,
symbolizes the soul; or carrying the sacred scarabæus, the image of Kheper,
the creator, signifies the resurrection. Horus appears in many other forms,
and is connected with the vast network of Osirian myth in several almost, if
not quite, inconsistent characters. Pasht, again, appears as a cat. She is
the favourite of the dwarfish Ptah. Thoth is an ibis, Anubis a jackal,
Sebek a crocodile, Isis a cow, and Knum or Kneph a ram; whence, in the time
of Alexander, Amen-Knum was identified with Zeus, or Jupiter Ammon, and
the king's head figured with horns.
After this period, too, the gods were divided into three orders. The eight
gods of the first order are enumerated nearly as follows by Dr. Birch:—At
Memphis they were: 1. Ptah; 2. Shu; 3. Tefnu; 4. Set; 5. Noot; 6. Osiris;
7. Isis; 8. Horus. At Thebes they were: 1. Amen; 2. Mentu; 3. Atum;
4. Shoo; 5. Seb; 6. Osiris; and Set with his wife Nephthys, or Athor with
Horus her son. These divinities were fabled to have reigned on earth before
the first dynasty, and both in monuments, papyri, and inscriptions on scarabæi,
we find their names recorded as Pharaohs. “A detailed ‘saga’ about Horus,”
as it is called by Dr. Brugsch-Bey, tells us how Isis by magical rites awakens
him to life from the dead body of Osiris, in the form of a little child, and how
with his companions he combats Set, the brother and murderer of his father,
and finally how the god of light is victorious over Set, the prince of darkness,
how there is eternal enmity between them, and how Horus ascends the
throne of Osiris, whom he has avenged. Such legends as this may be traced
from many sources and into many branches. The Egyptian traveller will
meet with them in many forms.

b. ILLUSTRATED LIST OF THE PRINOIPAL EGYPTIAN DIVINITIES.

The following is an illustrated list, arranged alphabetically, of the deities
most often seen on the monuments.

Amen or Amen-Ra, represented standing, and wearing a flat cap with two tall plumes; or as a mummy, seated, with the same headdress, and holding the sceptre, scourge, and crook, when he is Amen-Osiris. He is also found identified with many other gods, as Amen-Khem, Amen-Knum.

Annbis has a jackal's head; the god'bf the embalmers, and guardian of tombs.

Athor has a cow's head, with the moon's disk between her horns.

Horus is sometimes represented with a boy's head, wearing a side lock, and placing his finger to his lips; sometimes with a hawk's head, and wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt.

Isis wears the vulture cap, cow's horns, and disk of the moon, surmounted by the step-shaped throne of her husband Osiris.

Knum or Kneph has a ram's head, and a tall cap with feathers. He is identified as Amen-Khnum with the Greek Zeus Ammon, or Jupiter Ammon in Latin sculptures.

Khem, a mummy, the right hand uplifted behind him, and supporting a scourge or flail.

Khons, the rising sun; is often represented with the moon's disk on a hawk's head.

Ma, the goddess of truth, has a single feather rising from her head, and often wears a covering on the eyes which might be mistaken for spectacles.

Maut, the universal mother; wears the vulture cap, with the double crown, or has a vulture's head.

Neith, a form of Isis; wears sometimes a shuttle on her head, sometimes the crown of Lower Egypt.

Nephthys has a kind of tower on her head, and the vulture cap.

Osiris, a mummy, wearing the crown of Upper Egypt, sometimes with, sometimes without ostrich feathers; and holding the crook and scourge, either alone or combined with the sceptre.

Pasht, or Sekket, has a cat's head, or, in older sculptures, a lion's, crowned with a disk and asp.

Ptah, a mummy, holding a sceptre compounded of the Tat, or emblem of stability; the Ankh, or emblem of life; and the User, or emblem of power.

Ra, the midday sun; hawk-headed, crowned with a disk and asp.

eb has a goose on his head represents the primeval earth.

Thoth, the god of letters, and recorder of the court of Osiris, judge of the dead; has an ibis head, sometimes surmounted with a crescent moon and feather; holds a pen and tablet, or pen and palm branch.

Tum, Atum, or Nefer-Atum, the setting Sun; wears long hair crowned with a lotus, or a plums the double crown of Egypt.

19. ARCHÆOLOGY AND ART.

a. OLD EGYPTIAN.

Archæology.—The monumental remains of Egypt consist entirely of temples
and tombs.
The Egyptian Temple was not a place of public worship like a Greek or
Roman temple, or a Christian church. It was an edifice erected by a king in
honour of some divinity, sometimes of a triad of divinities, to whom he wished
to pay special homage, either in return for benefits conferred, or in the hope of
future favours. This is shown by the sculptures on the walls, in all of which
the king is the principal subject. He wages war with the enemies of Egypt
and brings them home captive; or he offers, in times of peace, gifts and
sacrifices. The prayers are all recited in his name, and he leads the processions
in which are carried the statues and emblems of the divinities. The
temples are always built of stone, and surrounded by a high and massive
crude-brick enclosure, which shut out from the vulgar gaze all that took
place inside. Near every temple is a lake. The following diagrams will
show the various plans and arrangements most usual in Egyptian temples of
the middle and Ptolemaic periods:—

Fig. 1 is a simple
form of a temple,
consisting of
(b b b) the dromos or avenue of
sphinxes, 8 8 8,
three propylons or
pylons, a a a; the
pronaos or portico,
d; and the adytum
(sêlcos) or sanctuary,
e, which was
either isolated, or
occupied the whole
of the naos, as in
fig. 2. c c are
screens, reaching
half-way up the
columns, as seen
in fig. 3. In the
adytum (e, fig. 2)
is an altar, f. W
W, the crude-brick
wall of the temenos,
“grove,”
or sacred enclosure.
Fig. 4, a,
the pylon; b, the
avenue without
sphinxes; c c, screens; d, pronaos or portico; e, the
hall of assembly; f, transverse ante-room, or proselcos,
a sort of transept; g, the central adytum, or sekos; h h,
side adyta. Fig. 5, a, pylon; b, avenue of sphinxes;
c c, obelisks; d d, propyla or pyramidal towers of the
propylæum; e, propylæum, area, or vestibule; f f,
statues of the king; g g, inner towers with staircases
leading to the top, as in d d; h, inner vestibule; i i,
screens from pillar to pillar, forming a sort of j ante-room
or portico to k, the hall of assembly; l, transept; m,
central adytum; n n, side adyta. Fig. 6, a raised
hypæthral building of columns and connecting screens,
with steps leading to it from within b, the dromos; the rest as fig. 5 to l, the inner hall,
which has several small chambers at the side; o, an isolated adytum, with a pedestal in the
middle for holding the sacred ark of the deity; p, q q, n n n, three adyta and other chambers.
All behind the Pronaos, or portico, is called the naos, which includes the sélcos within it, and
answers to the cella of Greek temples.
Fig. 7 shows b b, the pyramidal towers, with a, the pylon, between them, and the lines d d
curving over towards each other; h h, the colossal figures; g g, the
flag-staffs; f, a torus that runs up the wall, and under the cornice; c, fillet of the cornice.

With regard to the use of the word propylon, it may be observed, that propylon, pylon, and pylônê are all properly applied to the gateway (fig. 7, a); but the first of these was also used to designate the pylon with its towers: to prevent confusion, therefore, and to avoid the long expression “towers of the propylæum,” the word pylon has been adopted for the gateway, and propyla for the towers.

The Tombs of the old Egyptians were always situated either in the desert or
in the side of a mountain. The Egyptian of all ages looked upon his tomb as
a place of abode. Numerous passages in papyri testify to the care with which
in the lifetime of every great man his eternal dwelling was prepared.
In the early period it consisted of three parts:— 1. An exterior building (A),
containing one or
more chambers: 2.
A vertical pit (B):
and 3. the vault (c),
generally excavated
at right angles to
the pit, in which
was placed the sarcophagus
containing
the body (D). The
outer covering was
usually in the form
of what has been
called a mastabah,
the best illustrations
of which may be


seen at the Pyramids. Indeed the Pyramids themselves
are, there is now no doubt, the tombs of great
kings, exactly similar in construction and arrangement,
only on a gigantic scale, to the other tombs by which
they are always surrounded. (See further, p. 238.)
The tombs at Sakkárah and Beni Hassan give the
most complete idea of the interior arrangement. The
entrance varies in its proportions from a simple doorway
to a highly ornamental facade according to the
rank and importance of the owner of the tomb. On
the lintel is an inscription, setting forth the name and
titles of the deceased, followed by an invocation
addressed to Anubis, the guardian of tombs, in which
he is prayed, 1. To accord to the person named
propitious funeral rites, and a good burial-place in
the cemetery after a long and happy life: 2. To be
favourably disposed towards the deceased in his
journey through the regions beyond the tomb: and,
3. To secure to him through all eternity the proper
paying of what the
text calls “funereal
offerings.” This invocation
is followed
by a list of these
funereal offerings,
and of the anniversaries
on which
they are to be paid.
It is to be noted
that all the scenes
sculptured on the walls of the chamber contained in this exterior building
have reference to these three subjects of invocation. The chambers vary in
number and size; sometimes there is only one. They served the purpose
of mortuary chapels, in which the parents of the deceased and the priests
attached to the service of the cemetery celebrated, on the anniversary

festivals mentioned in the inscription over the door, certain ceremonies
in honour of the dead, and offered the appropriate gifts. The walls
were covered with sculptures or paintings representing the scenes in
which the deceased person had been accustomed to pass his life; ending
with the last act at which he may be said to have assisted in this world, the
transport of his mummied body to the place of burial. The tables of
offerings, which no doubt also formed part of the furniture of the chambers,
are depicted on the walls covered with the gifts of meat, fruits, bread, and
wine, which had to be presented in kind. At the end of the principal
chamber was a stela, containing what might be called the epitaph of the
deceased. Under the Ancient Empire these stelæ are quadrangular stones,
often of large size, and sculptured so as to represent the exterior of a temple
of the period. The statues of the defunct are often found concealed in one of
the chambers. They were generally placed in a sort of corridor contrived in
the thickness of one of the outer walls, and excluded from all external communication.
Sometimes, however, a small opening in one of the walls of the
principal room indicates the presence of a shaft reaching to the spot where
the statues are concealed, and through which the scent of incense might pass.
The entrance to the pit which forms the second part of the tomb is found
either in one of the chambers, or some hidden corner of the outer monument.
The upper part, dug through the overlying stratum of sand, is cased with
stones, the remainder being excavated out of the rock. These pits vary
from 10 to 30 yards in depth, are vertical in direction, and of square or
rectangular form. Those that have not previously been opened have been
found filled with a hard cement composed of stones, sand, and earth. At the
bottom of the pit appears on one side a constructed stone wall. This closes
the entrance to the third part of the tomb, the sepulchral chamber.
In this sepulchral chamber, hollowed out of the rock, lay the mummied
body, protected from all probable chances of violation by the solid stone
sarcophagus, the cavern hewn deep into the rock, and the pit filled with
compact débris, and with its entrance concealed from view.
The principle of construction in the royal tombs at Báb el-Molook at Thebes
is entirely different. Here there is no mastabah, and no exterior chambers,
in which the surviving relations met at certain seasons to pay their respects
to the dead. The “Tombs of the Kings” are all excavated out of the rock,
and consist of long inclined passages, with here and there halls and small
chambers, penetrating to a greater or less distance into the heart of the
mountain. Once the royal mummy was safely deposited in its resting-place,
the entrance was built up, and the surrounding rock levelled, so as to leave
no trace of the existence of the tomb. The place of the mastabah, or outer
covering, was taken by a temple built on the edge of the desert, nearer the
river. Here, as in a cenotaph, the memory of the king was preserved and
worshipped. Thus the Rameseum would be, as it were, the mastabah of the
tomb of Rameses II.; Medeenet Háboo, of the tomb of Rameses III.;
Koorneh, of the tomb of Rameses I., and so on. The walls of the entrance
and passages are covered with quotations from the Book of the Dead, and
representations of religious subjects.
Art.—The oldest Egyptian buildings, as distinguished from pyramids,
betray the universl use of wood for ordinary constructive purposes. The
roof of a tomb at Geezeh, though cut in the solid rock, is carved in imitation
of the trunks of palm-trees. The so-called “temple of the Sphinx” represents
a still ruder type. It has been well compared with Stonehenge.
Vast square columns of red granite support simple cross-beams, of the same
massive character and material. The lighter graces of Architecture are first
met with under the XIIth Dynasty at Beni Hassan. But here also the columns,
though cut from the solid rock, are imitations of wooden structures. Two
principal styles are found:—1. The shaft, formed of an imitation of the stalk

of the lotus or the papyrus, bound together at intervals, the capital being
made of the leaves or flowers. 2. The whole column, made of the trunk of
a single tree, imitated in stone, the cylinder being fluted into sixteen sides. In
the first examples of this latter style, which has been named the proto-Doric,
from its close resemblance to a Greek order, the column is octagonal; and in
others the sides, whether 8 or 16, are flat, so as to admit of inscriptions. In
some there are only two plain sides left. Of the same period and character
are the columns in the Temple of Karnak which bear the cartouche of
Osirtasen. The well-known columns in the great hall of the same temple
present the most characteristic specimens of the art of building as it was
practised under the kings of the XIXth Dynasty. The other temples at
Thebes (Medeenet Háboo, the Memuonium, &c.) bring us down to the end of
the XXth Dynasty. A revival of short duration took place under the XXVIth
Dynasty, when the early portion of the Temple of Philæe was built, and the
marvellous granite shrine made for the Temple of Philæ and the great
buildings at Sân, mentioned with so much admiration by Herodotus, still mark,
in vast heaps of ruins, the graves of the last native kings. Under the Ptolemies,
though great works were accomplished, and some of the most perfect of the
existing temples (Denderah, Esneh, Edfoo, Philæ, &c.) built, true art rapidly
declined. The Romans, except in buildings of a strictly sacred character,
imported their own engineering style, of which the principal remains now
existing are the fortress at Old Cairo , the gate (unfinished) of Diocletian at
Philæ, and many fragments at Alexandria. In Christian remains of early time
Egypt is very full, and the fortress of Old Cairo , just mentioned, is a fairly
typical example of the way in which older buildings have been utilised for
Christian worship. In Nubia one or two Ptolemaic temples were turned into
churches; and at Philæ, Luxor, and Karnak, a porch was similarly changed
by building up the door of the sanctuary and placing the altar against it.
It may be mentioned that the arch was known in very early times. The
best examples of its use may be found close to the tomb of Queen Makara
(Hatasoo), at Dayr el-Bahree, near Thebes. Yet it never came into
common use, and the flat stone lintel continued always the favourite expedient
of the Egyptian architects, from the time of Seneferoo to that of Hadrian.
The opinions formerly held as to the early Egyptian arts of Sculpture and
Painting have been much modified by recent discoveries. The first artists
were not tied to an arbitrary canon of proportion, but were desirous of representing
what they saw as exactly as possible. The oldest painting yet found
is that of a flock of geese pasturing, now in the Museum at Boolak. It comes
from a tomb at Maydoom. Equally early are two statues in the same collection
which were found in another tomb at the same place. They date from
the reign of Seneferoo of the IIIrd Dynasty, and therefore considerably anterior
to the period of the Great Pyramid. Painting and sculpture were even then in
an advanced state of cultivation. Very soon conventionality begins to appear,
and the statues of Khafra, admirable in their skilful execution, are yet inferior
in freedom of design. Rigid laws of proportion were in use as early as the
XIIth Dynasty, but were varied under the XXIInd Dynasty. Individuality
was by degrees completely lost, and we are by far more certain of the
actual likeness of Nefert, under the IIIrd Dynasty, than of that of Cleopatra,
though as late as the reigns of the XXVIth Dynasty portraiture continued
to be a living art. In bas-relief, always a favourite art with the Egyptians,
several styles may be found together. At Maydoom and Sakkárah, that is
under the Ancient Empire, a very low relief was preferred. As early as the
time of the XVIIIth Dynasty a kind of incised relief was introduced. It is
almost peculiar to Egypt, where the strong light of a cloudless sky renders
greater definition unnecessary. The figures are in relief, but the surrounding
stone is not cut away. Under the Ptolemies this style prevailed more and

more; and the latest and poorest sculptures—at Edfoo and Denderah, for
example—are thus executed. The low relief of the Ancient Empire was
revived with great success under Rameses II. and his successors; a few
examples, as in the grotto of Horus at Silsileh, occurring earlier. In the
oldest tombs a kind of coloured inlay was sometimes, but sparingly, used, the
outline being wholly cut out and filled in with an enamel. Such are the
decorations of the tomb of Nefermat at Maydoom, now almost wholly defaced.
It was also revived under Rameses II., and examples have recently been discovered
of his time at Tel el-Yahoodeh, near Cairo. The most elaborate
paintings are on the plastered walls of the Tombs of the Kings at Báb el-Molook;
but the style of those executed for the family of hereditary governors
buried at Beni Hassan, though it is comparatively simple, will continue to be
more pleasing until the not very distant period when the depredations of
ignorant and wanton travellers have defaced the last remnants.
In the goldsmith's art the excellence of very early work is remarkable,
though the mechanical finish is sometimes inferior to the design and execution
of the more ornamental portions. The jewellery of Queen Aahhotep, in the
Boolak Museum, shows more taste in colour and design than actual skill
in workmanship. Metal work was much developed under the Pharaohs
of the Middle Empire, and retained its vitality to a late period. Bronze
statuettes of great beauty were made even down to Roman times. Pottery
was another manufacture in which the ancient Egyptians excelled at all
periods; the finest examples occurring under the XIXth Dynasty. They
were also acquainted with glass from an early time.
In the art of quarrying the Egyptians have never been excelled. The
temple or tomb near the Sphinx contains blocks of granite 18 ft. in length,
brought from Syene, yet the date of the building cannot be later than the
IVth Dynasty. The great quarries of Toora and Masárah, and of Silsileh, are
in their way as wonderful as the buildings, and should be visited by every
traveller.

6. ARABIAN.

In no country did Arab art reach so high a point of excellence as in
Egypt, and there are fortunately still many monuments left there to prove
it, though some of them, alas! are fast falling to decay. All the important
examples are at Cairo, few buildings worth notice being found in other
parts of the country. They date from the building of the city in 973, down
to the Turkish conquest in 1517. An excellent account of the history of
Arab art in Egypt is given in Stanley Lané Poole's work on “The Art of the
Saracens in Egypt,” which should be studied by those who are interested in
the question.
The edifices in which the chief and characteristic features of Arabian
Architecture are displayed are the Mosques. These may be roughly classified
according to three types:—
  • 1. In the first type we find a large open court surrounded by arcades, or
    roofed colonnades; the side towards Mecca being more spacious than the
    others, and containing 3, 4, or 5 rows of columns supporting pointed arches.
    This is the most ancient and characteristic type of mosque; but it is reproduced
    under the succeeding dynasties. The Mosque of Amer at Old Cairo
    may be taken as a sample of it (see p. 224).
  • 2. The second type is developed during the epoch of the Memlook dynasties.
    In mosques of this class a smaller hypæthral court forms the centre; while
    in place of the arcades, or porticoes, are four deep niches with plain pointed
    vaulting. The niches on the Mecca and its opposite side (especially the
    former) are more spacious than those to the N. and S. There are separate
    chambers built as mausolea for the founders or their families; and the domes

    that rise above them are conspicuous for beauty of form and decoration.
    The Mosque of Sultan Hassan is the largest and grandest in this style (see
    p. 175). In the smaller ones the whole is roofed, and a skylight is introduced.
  • 3. The third type presents the Turkish style transported from Constantinople
    to Cairo. The Mosque of Mohammed Ali reproduces the Stamboul
    model on the most elevated and commanding site in Cairo. Here the main
    edifice for prayer consists of a square surmounted by a large central dome, and
    by subordinate and half domes. Adjoining it is the open court, surrounded
    by a colonnade with dome vaultings, and containing in the centre the hánafeeyeh
    for ablution. Already in some of the mosques left by Turkish rulers—e.g. the Sinaneeyeh mosque at Boolak, and that of Mohammed Bey Aboo Dáhab,
    near the Azhar—we have a foretaste of what might be expected to follow;
    and the little mosque of Sitt Safeea (p. 184), in the heart of Cairo, is an
    effort to reproduce in miniature the Turkish model.
In the numerous mosques of Cairo there are, of course, various modifications
of the two first types, and others which fall under no particular category.
Many merely consist of rectangular buildings, entirely roofed, and
containing rows of columns supporting pointed, rarely round, arches. Connected
with many of the mosques are colleges and schools (medresseh and
kutáb), libraries, hospitals, almshouses, and dervish retreats (kháneeka),
drinking-fountains (sebeel), &c. But most of these, except the sebeels and
small schools, are in a state of dilapidation.
The following terms may be found useful as explaining the essential features
of a mosque:—
Hôsh or Sáhn el-Gámah, the open court. Mehrab, or more commonly Kíbleh,
the niche, situated in the principal wall, in the direction of Mecca. Mimbar,
the pulpit of wood or stone, invariably placed immediately to the right or S.
of the kibleh. Dikkeh, a platform with parapet, generally supported by four
columns; or introduced as a gallery supported by pendentives or otherwise,
in no fixed position; but generally, in the larger mosques, in the leewan el-kibleh.
Leewan el-kibleh
, the principal portico, or portion of the mosque in
which is the kibleh; generally raised above the Sáhn el-Gámah. Koorsee, the
chair or desk for the Korán. Meydaah, the open tank for ablution; sometimes
in the Sáhn el-Gámah, but generally in a side space outside the mosque:
usually shaded by a roof or canopy supported by small columns. Hánafeeyeh,
the place of ablution, with running taps, generally in the Sáhn el-Gámah, in
large mosques—with canopy. Maksoorah, a compartment separated from the
main space by screen or otherwise. Kubbeh, a dome, or chamber with
a dome, mausoleum, &c. Mídneh, a minaret. Mabkháreh, a tower somewhat
similar to a minaret, but without balconies, and containing numerous
apertures in the upper portion, through which were formerly diffused the
fumes of incense burned during hours of prayer, &c. Amóod, a column.
Sharáfa (Sharafát), the ornamental stones forming the parapets. Tareek,
the inscription giving the date of the edifice.
One of the chief features of Arab architecture, the Dome, was borrowed
from the Byzantine style, but the Pointed Arch may have had its origin in
Egypt and spread westward through the Saracenic invaders of Europe. The
oldest pointed arches are believed to be those in the Mosque of Amer, or
Amroo, in Old Cairo ; but their exact date is doubtful, as that mosque has
been so often altered and rebuilt. The earliest building in which pointed
architecture occurs as a general characteristic is the Mosque of Tooloon, A.D. 876
(A.H. 263), though perhaps a somewhat earlier example is seen in the Nilometer
of Roda, built fifteen years before in the same reign.
Decoration has always formed an important feature of Arab architecture,
and no one can fail to be struck with the richness and beauty of the ornamentation

lavished on many of the buildings, cspecially those of the era of the
Memlook sultans. All this ornament, whether fretwork in plaster, as at the
Mosque of Kalaoon, or inlay, as at Sultan Hassan, or carving, as at Kaitbey,
is carried out without the use of natural forms, or the representation of any
animal or man. In a few places, as in the black and white painting of the
screen in the Mosque of Barkook, flowers are sparingly employed. Richness
of material—as porphyry, jasper, turquoise, alabaster, coloured marbles and
granites, ivory, bronze, and even mother-of-pearl—were lavished freely on patterns
the monotony of which was relieved by the frequent introduction of
legends from the Korán in ornamental bands and borders, or in plaques of
intricate monograms. Stained glass is similarly treated—vegetable forms
being more frequent, and the occasional use of a very conventional peacock,
or pheasant, being permitted. The pulpits are usually of wood, and on them
the visitor will often find exquisite specimens of carved ivory, concealed under
the dirt of ages.
The Domestic Art of the Arabs in Egypt may, like the religious, be
studied best in Cairo. On this subject there is no better guide than Stanley
Lane Poole's work, already quoted. A visit should be paid to the Museum of
Arab art in the Mosque of Hakim (p. 202). Some of the private Houses,
especially those annexed to ancient offices and inhabited by the sheykhs of
orders, have been very magnificent. Occasionally it is possible, through the
kindness of the inhabitant or owner, to see the interior of such a residence
in use (see p. 163). The wall towards the street is blank below except
for the door, above which on an upper story are oriel windows of carved
wood-work. From these windows a miniature oriel often projects; the
whole window is a roshan, the small projection a meshrebeeyeh, or “place
for drink,” from shrab, a draught, as in it bottles of porous earthenware filled
with water are placed to cool. The interior of one of the older houses
always surrounds a court. On one side, that facing the N., is generally a hall
or a mákad, having an open front, with two or three lofty arches supported
by graceful pillars. These mákads, which are usually lined with costly
mosaics, tiles, and marble-work, often remain half-ruined or with their arches
built up, after the rest of the house has been destroyed. A large chamber
for the reception of guests is on the ground-floor, and is called a mandárah. It is also magnificently ornamented, and has a marble fountain in the centre.
The design and ornamentation of these fountains are of the greatest beauty and
intricacy. The windows are filled with stained glass, set in a plaster framework
forming a kind of tracery and representing sometimes a bird, sometimes
a jar of flowers. A chamber, usually over the gate, and belonging strictly to
the Hareem, is sometimes similarly decorated, and the visitor who obtains
access to one is able to judge of the effect of the roshan from the interior.
The most perfect examples of old Arab art now remaining are the Illuminated
Koráns
exhibited at the Khedivial Library at Cairo (see p. 197).
They were collected from the mosques, where they had been deposited for
centuries, and where they suffered much from neglect. Most of them contain
some reference to the personages for whom they were written, and the finest
prove to belong to the same periods which, under the Memlook sultans, produced
the most beautiful mosques. Unlike the mediæval MSS. of Western
Europe, they are almost without exception, not on parchment or vellum, but on
paper. Writing is still practised as an ornamental art by the Arabs; the letters
of the modern alphabet being often twisted and turned, in mere handbills and
notices, into forms of considerable elegance. The old Kufic alphabet, which
stood to the modern letters as Old English stood to our present print, was
gradually disused after the 14th century; but it is not possible to give any
exact date at which the new characters came into exclusive use.
The beautiful glazed Pottery and Glass, with fragments of which the

ounds of Old Cairo abound, are not made in Egypt now. The ancient
Arab glass-makers have never been excelled. Many very beautiful specimens
of the mosque lamps are preserved in the Arab Museum in the Mosque of
Hakim. Some of these have, by the kindness of the Khedive, been lent to
the South Kensington Museum. Like architecture and writing, these sumptuous
and beautiful works were produced under the Memlook sultans of the
13th, 14th, and 15th centuries. Some account of the most remarkable
examples remaining will be found in Mr. Nesbitt's work on “Glass in the
South Kensington Museum,” in the appendix to which book will be found
also almost all that is known about the so-called glass coins which are
often seen in Egypt, and which are, according to the late Rogers Bey, really
weights for drugs and jewels. The inscriptions on them are sometimes of
great antiquity, but for the most part they belong to the three prolific
centuries mentioned above.
Of Art Manufacture there is now very little, except of a poor and coarse
kind. The tent-makers produce some pleasing patterns in “appliqué”, and
sometimes a good modern carpet is to be seen, but not often. The old Arabs
excelled in all kinds of needlework; and examples of ancient carpet and
shawl making, and of embroidery, may be obtained in the bazaar. Good
specimens of old metal work are rare, and, though it cannot be said that
damascening and filigree are extinct, they are carried on with little taste or
technical skill.
Jewellery.—Old silver and sometimes gold bracelets and rings may occasionally
be found, and in these, but especially in the large silver thumb rings,
some fine designs occur. Every woman wears a necklace (ekd) of beads
(karras), generally of little value, but occasionally beautiful examples of
ancient work may be found. The toke, or necklace of a single piece of
silver, with a loop and hook, has become rarer since the impoverishment of
the fellah; but it is very characteristic, and may have been made in gold as
well as in the inferior metals.
The manufacture of Spurious Antiquities must unfortunately be included
among Arab arts. So largely is it carried on that the traveller should
never buy anything of value without the opinion of an expert. A well-known
factory of spurious scarabæi was founded some years ago at Luxor by
a “Frank,” and is still carried on. Small figures in black granite are
among the most successful of these forgeries, but may usually be detected
(1) by the imperfection of the hieroglyphs, (2) by the violations of the
ancient canons of proportion. Earthenware scarabæi may be detected similarly
by the hieroglyphs, which are either too good to be true, being copied from
well-known inscriptions, or so bad as to be unreadable, and by the failure of
the forgers to imitate successfully the fine glaze of the ancients.

20. ARABIC LANGUAGE AND VOCABULARY.

Arabic is a Semitic language, the offspring, according to learned Arabs
themselves, of the Syriac, though Mr. Lane, in the Preface to his Arabic
Dictionary, considers this opinion as absurd, “unless by the Syriac we understand
a lost language, very different from that which is known to us by this
appellation.” The language is divided into the literary or classical and the
vulgar dialect. The classical language is a compound of the many sister-dialects
spoken throughout Arabia before the time of Mohammed. The
vulgar language is the result of the corruption in the classical consequent
on the Arab conquests under Mohammed and his immediate successors. The
chief difference between the two consists in the omission in the vulgar language
of most of the terminal inflexions, and the neglect of grammatical rules. The

standard of the classical language, which is still written with purity by well-educated
Arabs, is primarily the Korán, and then the works of such poets as
lived before, or at the time of, the Hégira. Of the vulgar colloquial language
there are several dialects. That spoken in Egypt, though inferior to the
Bedaween dialect, is to be preferred to that in use in Syria and in Western
Africa.
The Alphabet consists of 28 letters.
Names. Forms. Power. Remarks.
Alif ا a
Ba ب b as in English.
Ta ت t
Tha ث th a soft th, as in thing.
Geem ج j or g pronounced in Cairo and most parts of Egypt
as a hard g, as in give; in Syria and Arabia
as a soft g, as in gem.
ح h a sharp guttural aspirate.
Khá خ kh a guttural ch, as in German or the Scotch
word loch.
Dál د d as in English.
Thál or Dhál ذ th a hard th, as in this.
ر r a distinctly pronounced r.
Zain ز z as in English.
Sheen س s
Sheen ش sh
Sád ص s a hard, emphasized s, something like ss in
hiss.
Dád ض d pronounced with great emphasis, the tongue
being firmly pressed against the palate.
ط t
Tháor Zá ظ th
Ain ع a a peculiar, and (for Europeans) unpronounceable,
guttural.
Names. Forms. Power. Remarks.
Ghain غ gh a strong guttural, pronounced with a gargling
sound; something like the French r
grasséyé.
Fa ف f as in English.
Káf ق k a guttural k, often pronounced like a hard g. In vulgar Egyptian Arabic the sound is
almost dropped. Kasr is pronounced 'asr.
Káf ك k as in English.
Lám ل l
Meem م m
Noon ن n
Ha ه h
Waw و w
Ya ي y
Pronunciation.—In the Vocabulary and throughout the Handbook no
attempt has been made to render the Arabic words and names orthographically.
They are spelt as nearly as possible as they sound to an English ear. Nor
has it been thought necessary to distinguish by any system of dots or strokes
the different h's, d's, s's, &c., of the Arabic alphabet. The traveller will
soon learn for himself the right pronunciation of ordinary words, but it is
almost impossible to represent Arabic sounds correctly in Roman letters.
The acute accent is used to show on which syllable stress is to be laid; and
when over an a, it indicates in addition that that letter is to be pronounced
broadly, as in “father.” Occasionally a circumflex is used over the vowel
in words of one syllable, to show that it is to be pronounced very broadly.
The article el is assimilated before words beginning with dentals, sibilants,
and n and r: thus not el rás, the head, but er rás; not el shemál, the left,
but esh shemál, &c.

VOCABULARY.

The Verbs are given in the second person singular of the Imperative.
Able káder.
Above fôk.
Afraid kheif.
I am afraid ána kheif, a-kháf.
After bád.
Afterwards báden.
Again, once more kamán, kamán nóba.
Age omr.
His age omroo.
Agent wekeél.
Agree, v. itteffaka.
A pledge, earnest, in an agreement arboón.
We agreed together itteffakna.
Air hówa.
Alabaster marmar.
Alive hei, sáheh (awake).
All kool, koolloo, pl. kool-loohom.
All together kolloohom sówa.
At all wásel.
Almond lôz.
Aloe subbára.
Alter, v. ghéier.
Alum shabbeh.
Always daiman.
Amber kahrámán.
American Amerikánee.
Anchor murseh, helb.
Ancient kadeém, antéeka.
The ancients en nas el kodám.
And wa.
Angel malák, pl. maléieekeh.
Angry, to be za' alan.
Animal heiwán.
Ankle kholkhál.
Another wahed tánee.
Answer gowáb.
You are answerable for élzemak.
Ant numleh, pl. nemel.
Antiquities, curiosities antéeka.
Have you any antiquities? fee andak anteeka?
Ape kird, pl. koróod.
Apostle rossoól.
It appears baiéen.
Appetite shahiéh.
Apple teffahah, pl. teffáh.
Apricot (fresh or dry) mishmish.
Arabic Arabee.
In Arabic bil Arabee.
Arab (i.e. of the desert) Bedáwee, pl. Bedaween (Sheykh - el - Arab, an Arab chief).
Arch, bridge kántarah, kúbree.
Arm (of man) drah.
Arms (weapon) silláh, soolláh.
Art, trade sunnah, messele.
As zay.
Ashes roomád.
Ass homár, pl. homéer.
Ask, v. essál, saal.
Ask for, v. étloob.
At fee, and.
Awake, v. u. sáheh.
Awl mukhruz.
Awning (of a boat, &c.) tenda.
Axe, or hatchet balta.
Pickaxe azmeh.
Back dáhr, kuffah (of neck).
Back stream, eddy sheemeeyeh.
Bad (see Good) rádee, batál.
A bag kees.
Banana môz.
Bank of a river sahil.
Barber mezayin.
Bark, v. hábháb.
Bark, 8. gishr.
Barley shaéer.
Barrel burmeél.
Basket muktaf, kóffah.
— (of palm sticks) kúffass.
—, wicker me-shénneh.
Basin tisht.
Bat (bird) watwát, pl. watawéet.
Bath hammám.
Bathe, v. istahámma.
Battle harb.
Bead kharras.
Beads, string of, carried by the Moslems sibha.
Beans fool.
Bear, support, v. isned; (raise) erfa (see Carry).
Bear, put up with, v. istahmel.
The bearer ráfah, hamloo.
Beard dakn.
His beard daknoo.
Beat, v. idrob.
Do not beat (the ass) ma tidroboosh (el homár).
Beauty queiása.
Beautiful quéi-is.
Because aleshen, minshen.
Become ibga.
Bed fersh.
Bedstead sereér.
Bee dabboor.
Hive-bee náhl.
Beef lahm bukkar.
Beetle gorán, khónfus.
Before (time) kublee.
Before (place) koddám.
Beg, v. ishhat.
Beggar shahát.
The beginning el owel.
Behind warra.
Believe, I do not ana ma-aseddek-shee, or lem aseddek.
Bell geras.
Belly batn.
This belongs to me deh betáee.
Below táht.
A bench mástabah, dikkeh.
Bend, v. etnee, intennee.
Bent (crooked) métnee, mairooge.
Besides ghayr, kheláf.
Besides, except illa, il'.
The best el ahsan.
Better ahsan, akháyr.
You had better do so ahsan támel kiddee.
Between bayn.
Beyond bayid, warra (i.e. behind).
Bible kitab el mukaddis.
Big, bigger kebéer, akbar.
Bill, account hesáb.
Bird, small asfóor.
Bird, large tayr.
Bit, piece hetteh.
Bit, of a horse legám.
Bite, v. odd, or áód.
Bitter morr.
Black aswed, f. sóda.
Blacksmith haddád.
Blade silláh.
Blanket herám, buttaneeyeh.
Blind ama, pl. amián (see Eye).
Blood dam.
Blow, v. infookh.
A blow derbeh.
Blue (see Colours) azrek.
Light blue azrek fatéh.
Sky-blue semmáwee.
Blunt metallem.
A wild boar halóof.
Boat feloókah, sandal.
Boat, ship mérkeb, sefeeneh.
Boatman nóotee, marákebee.
Body gesm.
Boil, v. ighlee.
Boiled (water) mughlee.
Boiled (meat) masloók.
Bone admeh, pl. ádm.
Book ketáb, pl. koóttub.
Boot gézma, pl. gezam.
Borne, raised merfoóah, menshaleh.
Both el etnéen.
Bottle gezázah.
Bottle, earthen, for water koolleh, dórak.
Bow kós.
Bow and arrows kôs oo nishób.
Bowl kussáh.
Box sendóok, pl. sena déek.
Boy weled, pl. oolad.
Donkey-boy hammár.
Brain mókh, demágh.
Brandy árakee.
Brass naháss.
Brave geddah.
Bread eysh.
Bread, loaf of ragheef.
Bread, bring some geeb shwoyat eys.
Breadth ord.
Breadth, extent wásah.
Break, v. ekser, maktóoh.
Broken maksóor; cut (as a rope), muktoóah.
Breakfast fotoór.
Is breakfast ready? el fotoór hóder?
Bring the breakfast hát el fotoór.
Breast sudr.
Breath neffes.
Brick kóleb, toob ahmar.
Crude brick toobnee.
Bride aroóseh.
Bridge kantarah, kubree.
Bridle legám.
Bridle of a camel rusn.
Bright menówer.
Bright, shining lámah; it is—, yilmah.
Bring, v. hát, geéb.
Bring, me (anything) geeblee.
Broad aréed.
Broad, extensive wásah.
Broom magásheh.
Brother akh.
Brother, my, your, his akhóoee, akhóok, akhóo.
Brother-in-law neséeb.
Brush forsheh.
Buffalo gamóoseh.
Bug bak.
Build ebnee.
A building benát.
Bull tór.
Burden or load (of camels) hemleh.
Burn, v. ehrak, keed.
Burnt mahrook.
Bury, v. idfen.
Buried madfoón.
Business shogl.
Busy mashghoól.
But, adv. lóken.
Butter semn
Butter, fresh zibdeh.
Buy, v. ishteree.
By, pr. be (by kindness, bil maróof).
Cabbage curumb.
Cabin magat.
Cabin, inner khazneh.
Cable, rope hábl, leban.
Call, v. endah,
It is called esmoo.
What is it called? What is his name? esmoo áy?
A calm ghaléenee.
Camel (see Ship) gemel, pl. gemál.
Camel, female nákah.
Camel, for riding hegéen.
Camphor kafóor
I can ána ákder.
I cannot ma-akdér-sh.
Candle shemmah.
Candlestick shemmadán.
Cannon madfeh.
Cap, red tarbóosh.
Cap, white skull takéeyeh.
Capacious wásah.
Captain (of a boat) reis, gubtán.
Caravan kafleh.
Care igtehád.
Take care of ehtahrus.
I don't care malesh.
Careful wáee.
Carpenter naggar.
Carpet segádeh.
Carpet, large keléem, boossát.
Carry, lift, v. sheel, ayn; érfa.
Carry away, v. sheel, woddee.
Carriage, cart árabéeyeh, áraba
Carriage, I want a owz arabéeyeh.
Carriage, open arabéeyeh maftooha.
Carriage, close arabéeyeh makfoola.
Cartridge cartouche.
Cat kut, kuta.
Catch, v. elhak, hassal.
Catch, in the hand elkoof.
Cattle bahaiem,
Cave maghárah.
Ceiling sukf.
The centre el woost (middle).
Certainly maloóm.
Chain silsileh, pl. selásil ganzeer.
Chair, stool koorsee, pl. karásee.
Chamber óda, pl. óad.
Charcoal fahm.
A charm hegáb.
Cheap ra-kheés.
Cheat, v. ghushm.
Cheek khud.
Checse gibneh.
Cherrystick pipe shibook keráys.
Chicken farkhah, pl. fercéhk.
Child, boy weled, pl. oolád.
Choose, v. nuggee.
Christian Nusránee, pl. Nassára (Nazarene).
Church kenéeseh.
Circle déira.
City, capital medéeneh.
Civility maré of.
Clean, v. nádduf.
Clean, as a pipe sellik.
Clean, adj. nadeéf.
Clear réi-ik.
Clever sháter.
Cloak bórnoos.
Close, near garéi-ib.
Close, v. ikfel.
Closed, shut makfool.
Closet khazneh.
Cloth gukh (see Linen).
Clouds gheyam, saháb.
Clover berséem.
Coals fahm hágar (i. e. “stone charcoal”).
A live coal nar.
Coarse, rough khishn.
Coast sahil.
Cobweb ankabóot.
Cock deek.
Cockroach sursár.
Coffee kahweh.
Coffee, raw bonn.
Coffee, -pot búkrag, ténnekeh.
Coffee, -cup fingán.
Coins giddud.
Cold bard.
The cold el berd.
Collect, v. lim.
College medresseh.
Colour lôn.
Colours elwán, ashkál.
black aswed; f. soda.
white abiad, f. baýda.
red ahmar, f. hamra.
scarlet werdee.
dark red ahmar dóodéh.
purple-blue óodee.
purple menoweésh.
primrose bumba.
peach khókhee.
green ákhder, f. khádra.
dark blue azrek, f. zerka.
light blue genzáree,
sky-blue semmáwee.
brown (complexion) asmar, f. samra.
brown (complexion) (coffce colour) bonnee.
light brown kammóonee.
yellow asfer, f. saffra.
orange portokánee.
spotted menukrush, munkoósh.
dark colour ghámuk.
light muftóah.
Comb misht.
Come, v. gaá, taal.
Come, up, v. etla fôk.
Come, here taal hénna.
I am (he is) coming dna (hooa) gei.
I came ána gayt.
Compass boosleh.
Compasses bee-kár.
Complain, v. ish-kee.
Complain, of, v. ishtekee.
Content mabsóot.
Consulate bayt el Kónsol.
Continent, land, shore burr.
By contract bil megówleh.
Convent dayr.
Conversation hadéet.
Cook tabbákh.
Cook, v. etbookh.
Cooked meat tabeékh.
Cooked, drest mestowee.
Coop, for poultry guffus.
Copper naháss.
Cord (see Rope) hábl.
Cork, of a bottle ghuttah gezdzan.
Corn, or wheat gumh.
Indian corn, or maize doóra Shámee.
Corner roóken.
Corner, projecting, of a mountain koorneh.
It costs iswa.
How much does it cost? bekám dee.
Cotton koton.
Cover, v. ghuttee.
Cover ghutta.
Count, v. ed, haseba.
Country beled, pl. bilád, e.g. bilád Ingleez (England).
A couple gôz, etnéen (two).
A couple and a half gôz wa nusf.
Cousin ibn am, f. bint am.
Cousin on mother's side ibn khal.
Cow bakara, pl. bukkar.
Coward khowwáf.
Cream kishteh.
A crack, fissure shug, shargh.
Cracked máshkóok.
Crocodile timsáh, pl. temaséeh.
Crooked maóog.
Cross seléeb.
Crow ghoráb.
Cruel mohzee, házee.
Cultivatc, v. ezrah (i.e. sow).
Cup fingan.
Cup, glass koobaieh.
Coffee-cup fingán.
Coffee-cup stand zerf.
Cure, v. tý-ib.
Becoming cured itéeb.
It is cured táb.
Curious, wonderful agéeb, gharéeb.
Curtain setárah.
Custom-house gumrook.
Cushion mekhuddeh.
Cut, v. ékta.
Cut with scissors, v. koos.
Cut, part. p. muktoóah, mekuttah.
Dagger sekéen, khánger, sembeeyeh.
Damp, a. táree.
Damp, s. taráwa, rotóobeh.
Dance, v. erkus.
Danger khutar, khôf (i.e. fear).
He dares not ma isteggeréesh.
Let him dare! isteggeree!
If he dares
Dark ghámuk.
Dates balah.
Date-tree, palm nakhleh, pl. nakhl.
Daughter, or girl bint.
Day yôm, pl. iyám, nakhl.
to-day el yôm, en nahár dee.
every day kool-yôm.
a day's journey from hence saffer yôm min henna.
from the day (or time) I came min nahár ma gáyt, min yôm in gayt.
in those days fil aiam dôl.
now, in these days delwakt.
Sunday yôm or nahár el had.
Monday yôm el etnéen.
Tuesday yôm et talat.
Wednesday yôm el erba.
Thursday yôm el khamées.
Friday yôm el goóma.
Saturday yôm es sebt.
Dead, died, a. mat.
Death el môt.
Die, v. moot.
He is dying bemóot.
He died mat, itwuffa
Deaf attrush.
A great deal keteéer kowee.
Dear ghálee, azéez.
Dear, in price ghálee.
It is too dear ghálee kowee.
My dear to a woman ya habéebee. ya habéebtee, ya ainee, ya ayóonee (i.e. my eye, my two eyes); ya róhee, my soul.
Deep ameek.
Deny, v. inkir, unkóor.
Descend, v. inzel.
Descent nezóol.
The desert el burreeyeh,
The Devil es Shaytán, el Eblées.
Dew nedda.
Diamond 'fuss, almás (Turk.).
Different beshkeh.
Difficult saab, tekéel.
Dig efhát.
Dinner ghúddah.
Directly kawám;— in answer to a call, háder!
Dirty wussukh.
Disgusted I am with it ana ákruf min oo.
Dispute, v. henág, it-hanig.
Distance, a great méshwár keeber, bayd.
Divide, v. eksum.
Divided maksoóm.
Do ámel.
Do it so ámel kiddee.
I have nothing to do with it ana máleesh dáwa. hoo.
I cannot do without it ma astagnash anco.
Doctor hakéem.
Dog kelb, pl. keláb.
A dome koobbeh.
Donkey homár, pl. haméer.
Get me a donkey geeblee homár.
Donkey-boy hammár.
Door báb (see Gate).
Double, v. etnee.
Dove yemám, kimree.
Draw, v. sower.
Draw out (as teeth) egla.
Drawers libás.
Drawers, chest of beshtukhta (Turk.).
Dress, v. elbes.
Drink, v. ishrob.
Drive, v. soog.
Dromedary hegeen.
Drop, v. nookkat.
A drop nookteh.
Drown, v. eghruk, ghérrek.
A druggist attár.
Dry náshef.
Dry, v. a. inshef.
Duck, goose batt, wizz.
Dust turab.
Each kool-e-wáhed every one).
Ear widn.
Early bedree
Earth ard.
East shurg.
Easy sáhil, sahlen.
Eat, v. kool, ákool.
Edge harf.
Edge of a sword, &c. had, harf.
Egg bayd.
Elbow kóoah.
Elephant feel.
Else, there is nothing ma feesh hága gháyroo.
Embankment gisr.
Emerald zoomóorrud.
Empty fadée, fargh.
Empty, v. ferregh.
End, s. el-ákher, el terf (the last).
English Ingléez.
I am an Englishman ána Ingléezee.
Enough bess, bizeeádeh.
It is enough ikfeh, yikfeh.
Enter, v. idkhol, khosh.
Entering dákhil.
Equal to Kud, ála kud, yesawee.
Equal to each other, alike kud-e-bad, zaybád.
European Frangee (i.e. Frank).
Even, level mesowwee.
Even, also hatta, aidan.
Evening masa.
Good evening masa el khayr.
Every kool.
Every one kool-e-wáhed, koollohom (all).
Everywhere fee kool-e-mátrah.
Every moment kool es-saah.
Evil rédee.
Exactly temám (i.e. perfect).
Exactly so bikul sahat.
Exactly like it zayoo sowa, mitloo sowa.
For example mussalen.
Excavate, v. efhát.
Excavation fáht.
Excellent ázeém.
Excellency, your genábak, hádretak (your presence), saadetak (your highness) pl. genábkoom, hádratkoom, sádetkoom.
Except, adv. illa, ma ada.
Exchange bed-del, ghéier.
Excuse me, I beg pardon astaghfar.
Eye ain, pl. ayóon.
Eyeball habbet el ain.
Eyebrow hágeb, pl. howágib.
Eyelash rimsh.
Eyelid kobbet el ain.
One-eyod ower.
Face el wageh.
Fair, tolerable menáseb.
Faith (creed) shaháda.
Fall, v. yoóka.
False kedáb, mozawer.
Family, his áhl báytoo, áhloo.
Fan mérwáha.
Far, farther bai-éed, ábaad.
How far from this? kud-ay min hénna?
Fat, a. seméen, ghaleét.
Fat, s. semn, shahm, dehn.
Father, his, her ab, abóo, abée.
Fatigue taab.
Fault, it is not my máleesh zemb, máleesh dawa.
Favour, kindness, do me the amel maróof.
Fear khôf.
Feather reesheh, pl. reesh.
Field el ghayt.
Fig teeneh, pl. teen.
Fight, v. kátel, háreb.
Fight, s. ketál, harb.
File mubred.
Fill, v. émla.
Find, v. élga.
Finger subah.
Finger, fore- esh sháhed.
Finger, middle subah el woostánee.
Finger, fourth bayn el asába.
Finger, little khansur, khunser.
It is finished khalás.
Fire nar.
Fire, live coal bussa, busset-nár, gumr.
Fire (a gun) idrob (bendookeeyeh).
The first el owel.
When first I came owel ma gayt.
At first owelen.
Fish semmuk.
Flag bandeea.
Flat mebuttut.
Flax kettán.
Flea berghoót.
Flesh lahm.
Flint sowán, sutf.
Flour dakeék.
Flower zahr, nowár.
Fly, s. debbán.
Fly-flap menasheh.
Fly, v. teer.
Fog shaboór, dabaab.
Food akul.
Fool magnoón.
I am not so silly ána moosh magnoón.
Foot kuddum.
Footstep atter.
For minshán, ali-shán.
Forehead koóreh.
Forehead, lower part of gebeén.
Foreign barránee, ghareéb.
Forget, v. insa.
I forgot ána neseét.
Do not forget ma tinsásh.
Forgive me sud, málésh.
Forgive, v. se-máh.
Fork shôk.
Formerly zemán.
Fountain feskeeyeh, sebeel.
Fox taleb.
Free horr.
Frenchman Franzówee, pl. Franzóes.
Fresh, new gedéed.
Fresh (fruit) tarree.
Fresh water (sweet) móyeh hélwa.
Friend sáheb, habéeb, reféek (i.e. companion).
From min.
Fruit fowákeh.
Fuel wekéed.
Full melán, melián.
Gallop, v. ermah.
Garden ginnaýneh, bostán, pl. ginneín, bussateén.
Gardener genaynee.
Gardener (who irrigates) khólee.
Garlic tôm, koráat.
Gate (door) bab. pl. aboáb.
Gazelle gazál.
Generous, e is éedoo maftoóh (i.e. his hand is open).
Gentlemanlyman rágel lateéf, rágel zereéf.
Gently be-shwoy-esh.
German Nemsówee.
Get up koom.
Gift bakshéesh.
Gilt medáhab.
Gimlet bereémeh.
Ginger genzabeél.
Girl bint, pl. benát.
Give, v. iddee, átee.
Glad ferhán.
Glad, to be, v. effrah.
Glass kezáss.
Glove guantee (French). shuráb (i.e. stocking).
Glue gherreh.
Gnat namoós.
Go, v. rooh.
Go fast máshee.
Go slowly ala mahlak,
Go on yallah.
Go, get away, v. imshee.
Go in, v. idkhool.
Gone rah.
Going reieh.
Going in, p. dakhel
Going in, s. dokhóol.
I am going ána rei.
He is gone hooa rah.
I went ána roht.
Go out, v. ekhroog, étla, étla barra.
Do not go out la-tétla, ma tetlash barra.
Goat, kid maýzeh, fem. anzeh,
God (our Lord) Alláh (er robboona).
A god or deity Ilah, as la iláh il' Alláh, “there is no deity but God.”
Gold dáhab.
Good teiyib.
Good morning nahárak saeed.
Good night layltak saeed.
Good for nothing ma eswash hágeh (worth nothing), ma enfáshee shage (fit for nothing).
Goose wizzeh, pl. wiz.
Gradual, little by little shwoyeh be shwoyeh.
A grain habbeh.
A grain weight kumhah.
Grand ázeém.
Granite hagar aswán (i.e. syenite).
A grave toórbeh, pl. toórob.
Grease ziffr.
Great kebéer, pl. koobár.
Greater akbar.
Greatest el akbar
Greek Roémee.
Grind, v. ís-han.
Groom seiyis.
Grotto maghárah.
Ground, s. ard.
Guard, s. ghufféer, pl. ghúffara.
Guide, s. khabeér, daleel.
Guilty, he is not má loósh zemb.
Gum sumgh.
Gun bundookeeyeh.
Gunpowder baroót.
Gust of wind shurd, pl. shoroód.
Hair shar.
Half noos, noosf.
In halves noosaýn.
Halt, v. wugguf.
Hammer, axe kadoóm, shakoosh.
Hand, s. eed, yed.
Handful kebsheh.
Handkerchief mandéel.
Happy fer-hán, mabsoót.
Harbour merseh, meena.
Hard gámed, yábes.
Hare, rabbit arneb.
Harm, to do, v. door, idóor.
Harm, there is no ma feesh durrer, maleysh.
In haste kowám, belággel.
Hat bornayta.
Hatchet balta, kadoóm.
I have andee.
Have you? andak?
Hawk saker.
Hay hashish.
He, it hoóa (she, héea).
Head rás, demágh.
Heat, v. itéeb.
Heap kôm.
Hear, v. esmah.
Heart kulb.
Heat, v. sakhen, hammee.
Heat, s. har, hammoo.
Heaven semma.
Heaven, paradise genneh.
Heavy tekéel.
Hebrew Hebránee, Yahóodee.
Heel káb.
Height elloo, ertifáh.
Hell gehennem.
Herbs khódár.
Here hénna.
Here it (he) is áhoo, áhoo henna.
Hide, v. khubbee.
Hidden mistakhubbee.
High aálee.
Hill kôm, gébel, tel.
Hinder, v. (stop) hôsh.
His betá-oo, fem. betáhtoo.
Hold, v. imsek.
Hole kherk.
Bored, pierced makhrook.
Hollow fargh.
His home báytoo.
At home fil bayt.
Is the lady at home? es sit fil bayt?
Honest man rágel mazboót.
Honey (“white,” or “of bees”) assal abiad, assal en nahl.
Hook (fish) sunnára.
Hooks (and eyes) khobshát.
Hooka (pipe) sheésheh, narkileh.
I hope, or pleasé God Inshállah.
Horn korn; pl. koróon.
Horse hossán; pl. kheyl.
Mare farás.
Colt mohr.
Horseman kheiál, fáres.
Hot hámee, sókhn.
Hot weather har.
Hour saah.
House bayt.
What is that house called? esmoo ay el bayt dee?
How kayf.
How do you do? kaýfak, zaýak,
How much (is the price?) be kám dee?
Hungry gayán.
Husband gôz.
Hyena dhabá.
I ána.
Ice telg.
Idle kaslán.
If izakán.
Ignorant, novice gha-shéem.
Ill, a. aián.
It is impossible ma yoomkinsh, la yoómkin ébeden.
In, within goéa; at, fee.
Incense bokhár.
Indigo néeleh.
Infidel kéfer, pl. koofár kaferéen.
Ink hebber.
Inside góoa, fee kalb.
Instead bedál.
Interpret, v. tergem (translate).
Interpreter tergimán.
Intoxicated sakrán.
Iron hadéed.
Irrigate, v. iskee.
Is there? there is fee.
There is not ma feésh.
Island gezéereh.
Jackal táleb.
Jar kiddreh.
Jessamine yesméen.
Jew Yahóodee.
Journey saffer.
Joy ferrah.
Joyful ferhán, mabsóot
Judge kádee.
Keep, take care of itabar.
Keep, hold, v. emsek.
Kettle bukrag.
Key miftáh.
Kick, v. erfus.
Kidney kílweh, pl. kalawee.
Kill, v. mowwet.
Killed (dead) mát.
Kind, a. sáhab maróof, kereem.
King mélek, soltán.
Kiss bóssa.
Kitchen matbakh.
Knee rookbeh.
Knave ebn harám.
Knife sekéen; pl. sekakéen.
Who knocks? min dak?
Knot okdeh.
Know, v. áref.
I do not know ma aráfshee.
Ladder sillem.
Lady sitt (mistress).
O lady, madam ya sitteh.
Lake, pond, pool beerkeh.
Lame árug.
Lamp kandéel.
Land ard, bur (opp. to sea).
Lantern fanóos.
Large kebéer, aréed.
Lark koombarah.
The last el ákher,
It is late el wakt ráh.
Laugh, v. ithak.
Laughter déhek.
Law, justice shúrráh.
Lay, v. erkoot.
Lay, v. a. rukket.
Lazy kaslan.
Lead, s. rossáss.
Learn, v. itaálem, álem.
Leather gild matboók, “tanned skin.”
Leather, common gild horr.
Leather, morocco sakhtián.
Leather, Russia thelateénee.
Leave, s. ezn, egázeh.
Without leave min ghayr egázeh.
Leave, v. khallee, foot.
Leaven khumméer.
Leech áluk.
Leek korát.
Left, a. shemál, yesár.
Go to the left shemalak.
Leg rigl.
Lemon laymoón.
Lend, v. sellef, éslif.
Length tool.
Lengthen, v. n. itwel.
Lengthen, v. a. towwel.
Lentils ats.
Leopard nimr.
Less asgher (smaller), akúll.
Let go or alone, v. seyeb, khallee.
Letter harf, pl. horóof.
Letter, epistle maktóob, gawab.
Level mesowwee.
Level, v. sowwee, sallah.
Liar keddáb.
Lie kidb.
Liberated matóok.
Life omr, hýa.
Lift, v. sheel, erfah, ayn.
Light, a. khaféef.
Light, s. noor.
Light colour maftóoh.
Light the candle wúlla esh shemmáh.
Lightning berk.
As you like ala kaýfak, ala mezágak, ala múrradak.
Like, a. zay, míttel, kayf.
In like manner gazálik el omr.
I like (it pleases me) yagébnee.
I should like fee khátree, biddeo.
Lime geer.
Lime (fruit) laymoón hélica.
Linseed bizr kettán.
Lion assad, sába.
Lip shiffeh.
Listen, v. senned.
Listen, hear esmah.
Listen to, take advice towwah.
Little, small sogheer.
Little, not much shwoyeh.
Live, v. äésh, esh.
Liver kibdeh.
Load hemleh.
Loaf of bread rakeéf esh.
Lock kaylóon.
Lock wooden dobbeh.
Padlock kufl.
Lock,v. ékfel.
Lofty álee.
Long towée.
Look, v. shoof.
Loose, a. wásah.
Loosen, v. seyeb, hell (see Undo).
At liberty meseyeb.
Lose, v. deyah.
Love hôb..
Love, v. heb.
Low wátee.
Lupins turmis (Copt.).
Machine ábeh.
Mad magnoón.
Male dakker.
Female oonseh.
Make, v. ámel.
Made mamóol.
Mallet dokmák.
Man rágel; pl. regál.
Mankind insán, beni Adam.
(sons of Adam).
Manufactory wersheh.
Many Ketéer.
Marble ro-khám.
Market sook, bazáar.
Marry, v. gow-es, zow-eg.
Mast sáree.
Master sid, seed.
Mat, s. hasséereh, pl. hossor.
Matter, what's the? khabbar-áy, gerra-áy.
Matter, with you? málak.
Matter, it does not maleysh.
Mattrass martaba.
Measure (of weight) meezán.
Measure (of length) keeás.
Measure (of capacity) kail.
Meat lahm.
Meet, v. kabel.
Medicine doweh.
Merchant táger, hawágha.
Metals, mino mádan, pl. máaden.
Middle woost.
Middle-sized woostánee.
Milk lebben, haléeb.
Mill (corn) taháon.
Mill (oil) masara.
Minaret madne.
Mine, of me betáee; f. betáhtee.
Minute, s. dakéekeh; pl. dakeýik.
Mix, v. ekhlet.
Mixed makhlóot.
Moist táree.
Monastery dayr.
Money feloós.
My money is gone feloósee raht.
Monkey nesnás.
Monk ráhib; pl. robbán.
Month shahr; pl. shohóor éshhoor.
Moon kumr (masc.).
Morning soobh, sabáh.
Dawn fegger.
Sunrise télát eshshems.
Forenoon dáhah.
Midday dôhr.
Afternoon ásser.
Sunset múghreb.
1 1/2 hour after sunset ésha.
Evening messa, ásheeyeh.
Good morning nahárak saeed, sabah el khayr, sabákoom bel-khayr.
Morrow boókra.
the day after bad boókra.
Mosque gámah, músged (from séged, “to bow down”).
At most, at the utmost naháitoo.
Moth (of clothes) kitteh.
Mother om.
Mother-of-pearl sudduf.
Move, v. n. haz.
Move, v. a. kowwum.
Mountain gebel, pl. gebál.
Mount, ascend, v. etla, fôk.
Mount, ride, v. érkub.
Mouth fom, hannak.
Much, more keteér. aktar.
Mud wáhal.
Mug kooz.
Musk misk.
Mosquito namóos.
Musquito net namooseeyeh.
You must lázem, lazemlek.
Mustard khardel.
Mutton Iahm haroof.
My betáee; betáhtee, fem., as, farás betáhtee, my mare.
My son ebnee.
Nail mismar
Nail, v. summer.
Naked arián.
Name esm.
What is your name? esmak ay?
Napkin mahrama, vulgarly foóta.
Narrow deiik.
Near, nearer gareiib, agrab.
Neat, elegant zeréef.
It is necessary lázem, élzem.
Neck rúkkabeh.
Necklace ekd, kharás (beads).
Needle ebree, pl. óbar.
Negro abd (“slave”),
Neighbours geerán, sing. gar.
Neither (one nor the other) wulla wáked wulla ettánee.
Net shébbekeh.
Never abadan.
Never mind, v. maleysh, ma annóosh.
New gedéed.
News, have you any? andak khabber ay?
Next ettánee, alagemboo (at its side).
Night layl, pl. layál.
Good night layltak saeedeh.
Nitre subbukh.
No. nor la, wulla.
Noble, prince eméer, améer, pl. ómara.
Noise, don't make a matzaaksh.
North shemál, báhree.
Nose monhokhéer, anf.
Note moosh.
Not so moosh kiddee.
Nothing, none ma feesh hágeh.
For nothing beleysh.
Now delwákt (see Day).
A great number ketéer kówee.
Number, v. (count) áhseb, edd.
The numbers. El Eddud.
1, wáhed.
2, etnéen.
3, telyta.
4, orbá.
5, khámsa.
6, sitteh, sitt.
7, sébá.
8, temánieh.
9, tissá.
10, ásherah.
11, hedásher.
12, etnásher.
13, telatásher.
14, arbátásher.
15, khamstásher.
16, sittásher.
17, sébatásher.
18, temantásher.
19, tissatásher.
20, ásheréen.
21, wáhed co ásheréen, &c.
30, telatéen.
40, arbáéen.
50, khamséen.
60, sittéen.
70, sebáéen.
80, temanéen.
90, tissáéen.
100, méeyeh.
101, méeyeh oo wáhed.
120, méeyeh oo ásheréen.
1000, elf.
1100, elf oo méeyeh.
Nurse dáda (Turk.), mordáh.
Nut bendook, gôz.
Oar mukdáf, pl. makadéef.
Oath helfán, yaméen.
The ocean el báhr el málh.
The Mediterranean el bahr el abiad (i.e. the white sea).
Offended (hurt), do not be ma takhodshee ála khátrak.
Offen, many times ketéer nóba, kam nób! (i.e. how many times!)
Oil of olvies zayt-zaytóon.
Oil of, sweet zayt-hélwa.
Oil of, lamp séerig.
Oil of, train zayt-hár.
Oil of, lettuce zayt-kháss.
Old, ancient kadéem, main zemán.
Old in age agóos.
On, upon fôk, alâ.
One wáhed.
The very one bizátoo.
Once marra wáhed.
Onion basal.
Open, v. eftáh.
Open, p. p. maftóoh.
Opening fát-hah, applied also to the 1st chapter of the Korán.
Or ow.
Orange bórdókan.
Order, command, v. omóor.
Orders, s. amr.
Ostrich naám.
The other el akher.
Another wáhed ákher, wáhed ghayr, wáhed tánee, gháyroo.
Oven foorn.
Over fôk.
Overplus zeeádeh.
Over and abvoe zeiyid.
Overturn, v. egleb.
Overturned maglóob.
Overtake, v. elhak.
Our betának.
Out bárra.
Outside min bárra.
Owl mussása.
Owl, cagle boom.
Owner sáhab.
Oxen teerán (see Bull).
Padlock kuflt.
Pail sutl, dílweh.
Pain wagga.
Paint, s. boóyah.
Paint, dye, v. esboogh, lowwen.
A pair gôz, etnéen.
Palace serai.
Palm, date tree nakhl.
Pane (of glass) loh kezás.
Paper warak; (leaf of) warrakeh, ferkh.
Parsley badonis.
Part, piece hetteh.
Partridge hágel.
Pass, v. n. foot; v.a. fowwet.
Pasport teskereh, bassabort.
Pasport, I have no ma andeesh teskereh
Patient sáber.
Be patient towel bálak, úsboor.
He is patient rohoo towéel.
Pay money, v. edfá, feloos.
Peace, pardon amán.
Peace be with you salaam aleyk, pl. aleykoom.
Pear, prickly, or Cactus teen shôk.
Peas bisilleh.
Peasant felláh.
Peel kishr.
Pen kálam.
Lead pencil kálam rosáss.
People nas.
Perfect temám.
Perfect, entire sahéh, kámel.
Perhaps yemkin, bilkee.
Persia Agem.
Persian Agemee, Farsee.
A piastre coin) geersh, pl. groosh
Pickles toorshee.
Picture sóora, pl. tassowéer.
Pig khanzéer.
Pigeon hamámeh, pl. hamám.
Pilgrim hag, haggee.
Pill hab.
Pin dabóos.
Pipe shibook, ood.
Pipe, mouth-piece fom, mubsem, terkéebeh.
Pistol tabangih.
A, pit beer, fishereh.
What a pity! ya khosára.
Place, s. mátrah.
Plank loh.
Plate sáhn. tubbuk, hángar
Play, s. layb.
Play, v. ílláb.
Pleae God Inshállah!
Plough mihrát.
Ploughing hart.
Pluck, pull not, v. entish.
Pocket gayb.
Poison sim.
Point, end dubdabieh, turf.
Pole, stick middree, nebóot.
Pomegranate roomán.
A poor man meskéen, fakeér.
Potery fokhár.
A pound rotl.
Pour out, v. soob, koob.
Powder turaab; (gun-) baróot.
Powder kudr.
Pray sellee.
I pray you fee ardak, min fadlak.
Prescribe, v. wussuf.
Press v. dooss.
Press, squeeze, v. aáser (aser).
Pretty quéi-is.
Price temmen.
Price, what is the be kám dee.
Agree about price of ufsel.
Prison habs, hásel.
Produce of the land mahsool el ard.
Profit mukseb.
Pronouns, Personal:
I ána.
Thou enta; fem. entee.
He hooa.
She heea.
We nahna.
Ye or You entoom.
They hom, or hoomma.
Property, posesssions milk, pl. amlaak.
Prophet nebbee, rosool.
Provisions zowád, ákul oo sherb.
Pull, v. shid.
Pull, out, v., pull off (clothes) eglá.
Pulpit dikkeh.
Punishment azáb.
On purpose bilánieh, makhsoose; (in a bad sense) bilámed.
Push, v. liz, zog.
Put, v. hot.
Putaway, hide, v. diss, khabbee.
Put away, part. madsoós.
Pyramid háram (i.e. sncient).
Quail, s. summán.
What quantity? kud-dáy (i.e. how much).
Quarrel, v. hánuk, ámel kalám.
A quarter roob.
Quench (fire), v. itfee.
Quickly kawám, belággel, yálla.
Quiet sáket.
Raft ramóos.
Rag sharmóota, khállaka.
Rage zemk, zalaam.
Rain mattar.
It rains fih mattar.
Raise, v. erfah, sheel.
Raised merfóooah.
Ramrod harbee, kabbás.
Rare, strange gharéeb.
Rascal ibn harám.
Rat far.
Raw nei.
Razor móos.
Reach, v. tool, élhak.
Read,v. ekrah.
Ready háder.
Real sahéh sáduk.
Really, truly min hák.
Receive money ekbud feloós.
Reckon, v. ahseb.
Recollect, v. iftekr.
Reed boos.
Relate, tell, v. ahkee.
Remember, v. khallee fee bálak.
I remember, v. fee bálee.
Remove it from hence sheel min henna.
Reply, v. rood.
Reply, s. gawáb.
Return, v. erga.
Return, give back, v. regga.
Ribs dullóoá.
Rich ghannee.
Riches ghanna.
Rid, v. khallus.
Ride, v. érkub.
Riding, rokoób.
A rifle bendookeeyeh, shéshkháneh
Right, a. dughree.
Right (hand) yeméen.
Right, go to your yeméenak
Rim harf.
Ring (annulus) hallakah.
Finger ring dibleh, khatim.
Rinse, v. músmus.
Rinse it out músmusoo.
Rise, v. koom.
River náhar; bahr (i.e. ocean; applied to the Nile)
Road derb, síkkah, tareék.
Roast meat kebáb.
Robber harámee.
It rolls (as a boat) itmérga.
Roof sukf.
A room óda.
Root gidder.
Rope habbel.
Rose werd.
Rose-water moyeh-werd.
Roses, attar of hetter el werd.
Round, a. medower.
Around howaláyn.
Rouse, v. kowwem.
Royal soltánee.
Rudder duffeh.
Ruins, remains; see Temple beerbeeh, kharábeh.
Run, v. iggeree.
Run, as a liquid khór
Rushes summár.
Rust suddeh.
Sack sekeébeh.
Saddle (of horse) serg.
Saddle (donkey) bérda.
Saddle (drome-dary) ghabéet (obsolete), machloofah.
Saddle (camel) witter, howeeyeh, sháker, basóor.
Saddle bags khorg.
Sail, s. killa, komásh (i.e. cloth).
Sailor marákebee.
Sailor (of a boat) nóotee, teifa.
For sale lel-báyá.
Salt, a. máleh.
Salt, s. melh.
The same bardoo, pl. bardohoom.
Sand ramleh.
Sandal nál.
Sandstone hágar hettan.
Sash, girdle hezám.
Saw, s. minshár.
Say, v. kool.
Say, v. what do you? betkóol ay.
School kuttab.
Scissors mékúss.
Scold, v. hánuk, it-hánuk.
Scorpion ágraba.
Scribe káteb.
Sea bahr, bahr el malh.
See, v. shoof.
A seal khátim.
A seal impression khitmeh.
Search, v. fettesh.
Search tefteésh.
A second of time zánee.
The second, the other ettánee.
Seed bizr.
Seek for dowr aláy.
Send, v. érsel.
Separate one from the other furred.
Servant khuddám, subbee (lad).
Serve, v. ikhdem.
Sew, v. kheiyet.
Shade, s. dill.
Shadow kheéal.
Shave, v. ahluk.
Sheep, pl. ghunnum.
Ram kharóof.
Ewe nágeh.
Sheet, s. milaiyeh.
Shell woddá.
Shield darraka.
Shine, v. íbroog.
Ship mérkeb. *
Shirt, s. kamées, pl. komsán.
Shoe merkæob, pl. marakéeb.
Shoe (of a horse) nál.
Shop dokán, pl. dekakeen (see Trader).
Short kosseír.
Small shot rush.
Shoulder kitf.
Show me wereénee.
Shut, v. ikfel.
Shut (the door) ikfel (el báb).
Shut, bolt (the door) sook (el báb).
Shut, p. p. merdóod, matróosh, maskóok, makfool.
Sick, ill aián.
Sick, to be istufrugh.
Side gemb.
Sieve ghorbál.
Silk haréer.
Sight, s. shoof, nudr.
Silent, a. sákut.
Be silent, v. oskut.
Silver fodda.
Single mooffrud, ferd.
Sing, v. ghunnee.
Sir! ya sidi!
Sister okht.
My sister okhtee.
His sister okhtoo.
Sit, v. okkut.
Size kobr.
Skin, s. gild.
Water-skin geérbeh.
Sky, heaven sémmá.
Skylight (of a boat) tamboósha.
Slave abd, khádem.
Female gárreea.
Sleep, s. nôm, v. nám.
Sleeping nem.
Slowly be-shwoy-esh.
Small, see Little soghéer.
Smaller ashgar.
Smallest el ashgar.
Smell, v. shem.
Smell, s. shem, reeyeh.
Smoke, v. dokhán.
Smoke, v. ishrob dokhán.
Smooth, v. efred; adj. nám.
Snake tábán, hannesh.
Horned hei bil-koróon.
Asp nasher.
Snare fukh.
So kiddee.
Soldier áskaree, pl. asákor, asker.
Some of it shwoyeh minnoo.
Something hágeh, shay.
Some few things bád shay.
Sometimes bád-ókát.
Son ebn, weled.
Song ghóna.
I am sorry, v. isaabaláy.
Sound, voice hess.
Sour, acid háduk, hámood.
South genóob, gublee.
South wind now.
Sow, v. ezra.
Speak itkellem.
Speak, can you English? taaraf titkellem In gleezee?
Speak, I can French ána itkellem Fran zówee.
Spear harbeh.
Spider ghazzala.
Spider's web ankabóot.
Spill, v. koob.
A spirit afréet, pl. afaréet, ginnee, pl. gin.
A good spirit (see Angel).
Split, chipped, p.p. mafloók, mushroóm.
Spoilt, it is quite tellef, rah khosára.
Spoon málaka.
Square morúbbah.
Stable, s. stabl.
Stand up kóom ala haýlak.
Star nigm; pl. nigoóm.
Stay, wait, usboor.
Steal, v. esrook.
By stealth bil-duss.
Steamer babóor.
Steel soolb.
A steel (for flint) zeenád.
Stick nebóot, assaiyeh.
Stick of palm geréed.
Stick, v. ílzuk.
Sticking lázek.
It has stuck lezzek.
Stuck, p. p. malzóok.
Still, adj. sákut.
Still, yet lissa.
Sting shôk.
He is stingy eédoo másek.
Stirrup rekáb.
Stirrup, hold the imsik er rekáb.
Stone hágar.
Stop nukkuf, usboor.
Stop up, v. sid.
Stopped, closed masdóod.
Straight dughree.
String doobára.
Strong shedeét, gówee.
Straw tibn.
Street darb, sikkeh.
Strike idrob; he struck, derreb.
Strike a light égda.
Stumble, v. áhter.
Suók, v mooss.
Sugar sukkar.
Sun shemt (fem).
The sun has set esh shems ghábet.
Sulphur kabréet.
Summer seyf.
Support, v. esned.
He supported senned.
Supported p.p. masnoód.
Swell, v. yóorem.
Swollen warim.
Swear, testify, v. ishhad, áhlif.
Swear, at, abuse, v. ishtem.
Swallow, v. eblá.
Sweet helwa.
Swim, v. aóm.
Sword sayf.
Syria esh Shám.
Table-cloth foóta es soffra.
Table soffra.
Table, Egyptian koórsee.
Tack (in sailing idrob bólta.
Tail dayl.
Tailor kheiyát, térzee.
Take, v. khod.
Take away, v. sheel.
Take in, cheat ghush.
Talk, v. itkellem, ithaddet.
Tall toweél.
Tamarisk turfa.
Tax feérdeh, méeree.
Tea shy.
Teach, v. álem.
Tear, v. éshrut, shermut.
Telescope nadára.
Tell, v. gool, áhkee.
Temple béerbeh.
Tent kháymeh.
Tent peg wattat.
Than min, an.
Thank you katter khayrak.
Thank God el hamdoo lilláh.
Then somma, badén.
There henák.
They, their hoom, betahoom.
Thick tekhéen.
Thief harámee.
Thigh fukhd, werk.
Thin roofeeyeh.
Thing hágeh, shay.
Things asheeát.
I think, suppose ana azóon, tekhmeenee.
Third thálet, tult.
This dee, háza.
That dikka, da.
Those dôl.
Thou enta, fem. entes.
Thirst attush.
Thirsty átshán.
Thorn shók.
Throw, v. érmee.
Thumb subá el kebeer.
Thunder rsad.
Tickle, v. zugzug.
Tie, v. erboot.
Tight, drawn mashdóot.
Time wakt.
Tin safeeyeh, hazdeér.
Tin-plate looh es-safeeyeh.
Tinder soofán.
Tired taabán.
To illa.
Toast (bread) eysh mekummer.
Tobacco dokhán (i.e. smoke).
Together sowa sowa.
To-morrow bookra.
To-morrow, the day after bad bookra.
Tongs másheh.
Tongue lisán.
Tongue, hold your eskut.
Tools eddeh.
Tooth sinneh, pl. sinnán, sinoón.
Top ghuttá (cover).
Torch mashal.
Torn meshermet.
Touch, feel, v. hassus.
Do not touch that (put not your hand on it) matehót-shee eédak ála dée
Tow meshák.
Towel, napkin foóta, máhrama.
Tower boorg.
Tower, fort káláh.
Town beled, pl. belád.
Large town bénder,
Trade sebbub.
Trader táger, mesebbub.
Railway train katr, babóor.
Traveller mesaffer, pl. — in.
Traveller, European sowáh, pl. — in.
Tree seggereh.
Trouble taab.
Trousers sharwál, lebáss (drawers).
Trousers of women shintiyán.
True sáheh, dughree, sá duk.
Try, prove, v. gurreb.
Tub mustéla.
Turban emmeh.
Turk Toork, Ozmánlee.
Turn, v. dower.
Turquoise faroosee.
Twice marrataýn, nobataýn
Twist, v. ibroom.
Ugly váhesh, bilhám.
Umbrella shemseeyeh.
Umbrella, open the efta esh shemseeyeh.
Uncle am.
Uncle (mother's brother) khal.
Under táht.
Understand, do you? fehemt?
Undo, untie, v. fook, hell.
Until illa, le.
Up, upon, ever fôk.
Upper fokánee.
Use, it is of infá.
Use, it is of no ma infásh.
Used, worn, secondhand mestáhmel.
Usury ribeh.
Valley wády.
Value, price témmun.
Vapour bokhár.
Vegetables khodár.
Very kówee; very large, kebéer kóicee.
Violet benefsig.
Virgin bilr.
Vocabulary sillemee, ketáb sillemee.
Voyage saffer.
Vulture nasa.
Wages ogra.
Waist woost (i.e. middle).
Wait, stop, v. usboor.
Wait, for me istennánee.
Wait, for him istennoo.
Wake, v. a. and n. éshur (esher).
Walk, v. imshee.
Walking máshee.
Wall kayt.
Wall (round a town) soor.
Walls haytán.
Want, I, v. ána owz, aréed.
Want, I do not ana moosh owz.
Want, what do you? owz-ay; by the Bedaween, eysh teréed.
I want nothing moosh owz hágeh.
War harb.
Warm sokhn.
Lukewarm dáfee.
Warn, v. wussee.
I warned you ana wusaýt-ak.
I was koont, ana koont.
He, it, was kan.
She was kannet.
We were koonna.
You were koóntum, koóntoo.
They were kánoo.
Wash, v. ighsel.
A watch saah.
Water, s. ma, móyeh.
Water, v. iskee.
Water, sprinkle roósh, rush.
Water, fresh móyeh helwa.
Water, spring of ain, ayn (eye), ed.
Water, torrent of (in the desert) sayl.
Water, basin of (in a rock) kháraza, mesék.
Water, small basin of mesáyk.
Water, basin or natural reser voir, when filled up with sand or gravel teméeleh.
Water, well of beer.
Water, reservoir (built) hód.
Water, pool of rain water magára.
Water, river or stream nahar.
Water, channel or conduit miggreh.
Water-melon batéekh.
Way sikkeh, darb.
We ahna, nahna.
Weak batlán, daeéf.
Week, one goóma wáhed.
Weigh, v. yoózen.
Weight tokl, mizaan.
Well, s. beer.
Well, good teiyib.
I am well, thank you ána teiyib, kattar khayrak.
Wet mabloól.
Wet, v. bil.
What ay, eysh.
What do you say? betkoól-ay, tekoól-ay?
What is this? ay dee?
What's the matter? khabbar-ay, géra-ay?
What's the price of this bekám dee?
What is this worth? eswa-ay dee?
What are you doing? betámel-ay; by the Bedaween, eysh tesowwee?
What o'clock is it? es saah kám?
Wheat kumh.
A wheel aggeleh.
When lemma, émta (inter-rog.).
At the time that Where? wakt ma. fayn (by the Arabs, owwáyn)?
Where are you going? enta rei fayn?
Where did you come from? enta gayt min ayn?
Which? anhóo?
That which il-azée, illee.
Whip of hippo potamus' hide korbág.
White abiad, fem. baýda.
Whitening tabeshéer.
Why? lay? leysh?
Who meen.
Who is that? da meen?
Who said so? meen kal kiddee?
Whose betá meen.
The whole el kool, koolloo.
Wicked harám.
Widow azbeh, ermeleh.
Widower ázeb.
Wife marra, zog, hormah.
I will, v. ána areed.
Wind, s. reeah, hówa.
North wind teiáb.
Window shubák.
Wine nebéet, sharáb.
Wing genáh.
Winter shitta.
Wipe, v. emsah
Wire silk.
I wish, v. biddee, fee khátree, aréed.
I had wished eraŷt, kán fee khátree.
With má, wéea.
Within goóa.
Witness sháhed.
Wolf deeb.
Woman marra, nissa, hormah, pl. niswán, haréem.
O woman (calling to a poor woman), respectfully, ya sitt.
I wonder at ana astágeb.
I wonder if, i.e. wish to know ya tárra, ya hál tarra.
Wonderful agéeb.
Wood khéshub.
Firewood hattob.
Wool soof.
Word kilmeh, pl. kalám.
Work, s. shoghl.
Work, v. ishtoghl.
World doóneeyeh.
Worm doodeh, pl. dood.
Worth, it is éswa.
Wound, s. gérah.
Wounded magrooh.
Write, v. iktub; writer, káteb.
Wrote ketteb.
Writing ketábeh.
Written maktoób.
Yard, court hôsh.
Year senna.
Yesterday embára
The day before yesterday owel embára
Yes nám, aiwa.
Not yet lissa.
You enta; fem. entee; pl. éntoom.
Young soghéier; zwéier.
Young man sheb, gedda.
Your beták; betáhtak, f.
Youth sheb áb.



[Back to top]

SECTION II.
ALEXANDRIA AND THE WEST OF THE DELTA.


113

ALEXANDRIA:— PAGE
Preliminary Information 113
Description of Alexandria 118
ROUTE 1. Alexandria to Rosetta by Rail 142
ROUTE 2. Rosetta to Cairo 144
ROUTE 3. Alexandria to Port Said and Suez by Water 144
ROUTE 4. Alexandria to Suez by Rail 144
ROUTE 5. Alexandria to Cairo by the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal and the Nile 145
ROUTE 6. Alexandria to Cairo by Rail 150

ALEXANDRIA.

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

1. Landing at Alexandria. — 2. Hotels.—3. Lodgings. Houses. — 4. Club.
Cafée. Restaurants.—5. Post Office. — 6. Telegraph. — 7. Carriages.
Donkeys.—8. Servants.—9. Bankers.—10. Consulates.—11. Medical Men,
—12. Shops. Tradespeople. — 13. Agents for forwarding goods.—14.
Railways.—15. Steamers,—16. Churches.—17. Boats for Nile voyage.—
18. Plan for seeing Alexandria.
1. LANDING AT ALEXANDRIA.—(See
Introduction, on the Voyage to Alexandria.)
Approach from the Sea. — From
whichever side it is approached the
coast of Egypt is so exceedingly low
that the highest parts only begin to be
seen at the distance of about 18 miles,
and the line of the coast itself is not
discernible till within 13 or 14. The
first objects perceived are the Ramleh
Palace on rising ground to the E., the
lighthouse at the extremity of the Raset-Teen
(“Cape of Figs”), and the
palace beyond, Pompey's Pillar, the
several forts, the range of low hills to
the W. crowned with windmills, the
masts of the shipping in the harbour,
and the breakwater.
The bay of Alexandria was originally

about 6 1/2 English miles long, lying
within a line of reefs and islands running
S.W. and N.E., at an extreme
distance of 1 1/2 mile from the shore.
Alexander's Heptastadium divided it
into two unequal parts, of which the
eastern portion formed the ancient
harbour, called now the “New Port,”
and only used by native craft, on account
of its being shallow and rocky.
The western portion forms the modern
port, called the “Eunostus Harbour,”
or “Old Port,” and is 5 English miles
long. At Eunostus Point, the extreme
end of Ras-et-Teen, on E. or left side
on entering, is the lighthouse built by
Mohamed Ali, with a 20-second revolving
light, 180 ft. above sea-level,
and visible 20 miles off, placed in it by
the late Khedive Ismail Pasha.
The Harbour. — The Breakwater forms a conspicuous feature immediately
on entering the harbour. It
starts 22 yards from Eunostus Point,
bears S.W. for about 1220 yards, then
nearly S.S.W. for 1980 yards, having
a total length of 3200 yards.
The southern end carries a lighthouse
30 ft. above sea-level, and is
about 1000 yards from the shore, with
10 fathoms water between. Both the
breakwater and the inner works of
the new port were constructed by an
English firm, Messrs. Greenfield and
Co. The breakwater itself was commenced
in the summer of 1871, and
was practically finished in 1873. It
is composed of nearly 27,000 blocks of
concrete, or artificial stone, weighing
20 tons each, laid “pierre perdue,”
offering to the sea a rugged slope
which effectually breaks up the waves
and affords calm water inside. The
inner slope is covered with 55,000 tons
of rubble stone, and 85,000 tons of
quarry blocks, from 2 to 6 tons each.
It is 20 ft. wide at the top, and 10 ft.
above sea-level.
As the vessel approaches the shore,
we can notice on the right the strip
of land between the sea and Lake
Mareotis; upon which are the Forts
and Lines of Mex, Forts Kamaria and
Oom el Kubeba; the palace built by
Said Pasha, never inhabited, and now
in ruin; the quarries of Mex, from
which the stone was brought for constructing
the breakwater and quays;
and, at the western extremity of the
bay, the Forts of Adjmi and Marabut;
in the little cove near which Napoleon
landed his troops in the night of 1st
July, 1798, marching upon Alexandria
along the strip of land before us
in the early morning. Farther to the
westward stretch for miles the quarries
from which the stone was taken to
build ancient Alexandria. The entrance
to the harbour is closed by a
reef, the passage through which is very
intricate, and impracticable at night or
in rough weather. Inside the reef the
water is 10 fathoms deep. This reef is
now being removed by the Port Administration
of Alexandria, and the
entrance is considerably improved.
Much, however, has still to be done
before the work is completed.
As we round the end of the break-water,
we enter the outer Harbour of 1300 acres, of which 800 acres
have from 5 to 10 fathoms of water.
We see the honeycombed hill, which
formed the ancient Necropolis, crowned
by the numerous windmills built by
Napoleon for grinding corn for the
garrison; and the new great harbour
mole, stretching about 1000 yards from
the southern shore, with the shipping
lying at anchor inside. The great
Mole is more than 100 ft. wide at top,
is faced with large quarry blocks on
the seaside, and with quay walls on
the inner side: it was constructed in
40 ft. of water, below which there
was mud to a further depth of 30 ft.,
into which the rubble stone, of which
the body of the mole is formed, sank
very considerably during construction.
A spur nearly 300 yds. long and 70
yds. wide at top projects from the
mole on the inner side. Railways in
connection with the network of the
country and roads are laid along the
mole and the spur. The water area
inside the mole is 500 acres; 250 acres
of which are deep water. The ancient
island of Pharos forms the northern
boundary, while the modern town, on
the site of the Heptastadium, with the
warehouses on the south-eastern shore,
form nearly a semicircle round the

inner harbour. The conspicuous Fort
Caffarelli, or Napoleon, is now used as
a signal station for the shipping; there
is an excellent view of Alexandria from
this point; according to native tradition,
its extensive earthworks rose in
a night to defend the newly-acquired
possession of Napoleon. Beyond the
mole, as far as the Arsenal of Mohamed
Ali, are more new quays, making with
those of the mole a length of more
than 2 miles. The rise and fall of the
sea in this part of the Mediterranean
being but trifling, the inner harbour
has all the advantages of a tidal dock
without the labour, danger, or loss of
time attending the use of gates. A
considerable area of valuable land
(about 70 acres, including mole and
quays) has been added by the new
works. The reclamation between the
quays and the old foreshore was made
partly from the dredging for deepening
the harbour, but mainly with
material brought by railway and by
sea from the quarries at Mex.
Landing.—As soon as the steamer
anchors, shoals of boats come off to take
the newly-arrived strangers with their
baggage ashore. If the traveller has
no one to meet him, he had better consign
himself to the care of the commissionaire
of the hotel to which he
intends going. The usual price for a
boat to or from a steamer, with a
moderate amount of luggage, is 2s. for
one person, and 1s. for each additional
person. If there is a great deal of
luggage, an extra boat may be necessary.
Though passports are not required by English people, they are
sometimes asked for, and it is better
to be provided with one, viséd by the
Turkish Consulate in London or at the
port of embarkation. All luggage will
be examined at the Custom House,
which is now in charge of English
officials. A heavy duty is charged on
cigars, and there is great difficulty in
passing guns and gunpowder.
On landing, the stranger, if he
escapes the rapacity of the boatmen,
who, like all other classes at Alexandria,
are never satisfied, however well
paid, is immediately pressed on all
sides by the most importunate of human
beings, in the shape of donkey-boys
and carriage-drivers, who, with
vehement vociferation and gesticulation,
strive to take possession of the
unfortunate traveller, and almost force
him to mount. If not under guidance,
he had better seek refuge in the omnibus
of the hotel to which he is going.
Very heavy luggage can be best carried
in a cart or truck. The charges are:
carriage 2s., with 1s. extra for three or
four people; donkey, 6d.; truck, 2s.
The New Custom House is on the
New Quay, from which a good street
leads to the Place Mohamed Ali which
may be regarded as the centre of the
town. This road, though easier, is not
so picturesque as the way from the
Old Custom House, which was near
the Arsenal at the N.E. corner of the
harbour. The latter way lies through
the narrow and irregular streets of the
native quarter, in which the houses
appear as if thrown together by chance,
without plan or order; and few have
even that Oriental character which is
so interesting at Cairo. Here and
there, however, the lattice-work of the
windows and a few Saracenic arches
give the streets a picturesque appearance;
and in the longer, but more interesting,
road through the bazaars,
which can only be followed on foot,
the stranger will be struck with many
a novel and Eastern scene.
2. HOTELS.—It is usual to charge a
fixed sum a day for board (exclusive of
wines) and lodging, whether every
meal is taken in the house or not; but
other arrangements can be made.
Hôtel Khedivial, in the street Sheriff
Pasha, close to the New Bourse and
the Railway Station to Cairo; it is
well managed; rooms good; baths;
charges 16s. a day.
Hôtel Abbat, in the Square Ibrahim,
close to the Place Mohamed Ali, very
comfortable; board and lodging 12s. per diem.
3. LODGINGS. HOUSES.—Travellers
are not recommended to take a house
or lodgings until they have been some
little time in the country, or have

friends who can point out what to take
and what to avoid.
4. CLUB, CAFÉS, RESTAURANTS.
There are two clubs—The Cercle Khedivial,
and the Mohamed Ali; guests
are admitted if recommended by a
member and approved by the committee.
The principal European cafés are
in the Great Square; there are some
second-rate ones at which there is
music in the evening, in other parts of
the town.
The Restaurant de la Bourse in the
Rue de l'Eglise Anglaise is the best.
German beer is to be had at most of
the cafés and restaurants.
5. POST-OFFICE. (See also p. 6.)—
In a street near the English Church.
Letter-boxes at the hotels and in some
of the streets. Egypt has joined the
Postal Union; stamps and post-cards
can be procured at the office. The
mails leave for Europe as follows:—
By P. and O. steamer, viâ Brindisi, on
arrival of the mail from India; by
Messageries steamer, viâ Naples and
Marseilles, on Tuesday; by Austrian
Lloyd steamer, viâ Trieste, on Tuesday;
by Rubattino steamer, viâ Naples
and Genoa, on Friday.
6. TELEGRAPH. (See also p. 6.)—The
Eastern Telegraph Company
, Rue du
Télégraphe, despatch messages to all
parts of the world.
The Egyptian Government Telegraph
is in operation throughout the
whole of Egypt, and messages can be
sent to and from most of the principal
towns. The rate is 5 piastres' tariff
for 10 words. This Company also
undertakes the despatch of messages to
most of the principal cities of Europe,
viâ Constantinople.
7. CARRIAGES, DONKEYS.Carriages abound in Alexandria, for the regulation
of which there is a tariff, which
should be adhered to. This tariff can
be seen at the hotels, and should be
produced by the driver if it is required.
If the quarter of an hour is exceeded,
an hour's fare must be paid. After the
first hour, the time is counted by halfhours.
On Fridays and Sundays something
more is expected. This tariff is
for inside the fortifications, and a
radius of about a mile outside them.
For further distances an agreement
must be made. A carriage for the day
costs from 16s. to a pound.
Donkeys may be found everywhere;
6d. for a short course, 1s. an hour, and
5s. a day should satisfy their importunate
drivers.
8. SERVANTS.—Under present circumstances
in Egypt, it is not necessary
for travellers to provide themselves
with servants more than as travelling
in Europe. If a dragoman is required
we would recommend application to
be made to Messrs. Cook and Sons.
Guides to see the town can be obtained
at the hotels, but their information is
not very reliable.
9. BANKERS.Bank of Egypt, Rue
Tewfik Pasha. Imperial Ottoman
Bank
, near the old Bourse. Anglo
Egyptian Bank
, Rue Chérif Pasha.
General Bank of Egypt, Rue Chérif
Pasha. Franco - Egyptian Bank,
Boulevard de Ramleh. Crédit-Foncier
Egyptien
, Rue Chérif Pasha. Crédit
Lyonnais
, Rue Chérif Pasha.
10. CONSULATES.English: Sir
Evelyn Baring, K.C.B.
, H.B.M.'s
Agent and Consul-General for Egypt,
resides in Cairo. C. A. Cookson, Esq.,
Consul and Judge of the Consular
Court. American: Vice-Consul, M.
Ewing.
The American Consul-General
resides sometimes at Cairo and
sometimes at Alexandria.
11. MEDICAL MEN.Physicians:
Dr. Mackie, Dr. Morrison, Dr.
Maclean, Dr. Varenhorst Bey.
12. SHOPS AND TRADESPEOPLE.
There are many very good shops at
Alexandria, at which the traveller can
supply most of his wants. Among the

most likely to contain what he may
require are:—
Booksellers.Penasson, Place
Méhémet Ali or Great Square, is the
best for English books, stationery,
newspapers, &c. Santamaria, Place
Méhémet Ali, best shop for the latest
French and Italian books; has also
the Tauchnitz editions. Magrini and
Co.
, Place Méhémet Ali.
Photographs.—Views of Egypt and
the Nile may be obtained at the book-sellers.
L. Fiorillo, Place Méhémet
Ali; cartes de visite good.
Chemists.British Dispensary, Raset-Teen
Street; German-English Dispensary
(Ludwig's)
, opposite; Egyptian
Dispensary
, in same street.
General Outfitters.Cordier, Place
Méhémet Ali; and any of the numerous
bazaars in the same square.
Provision Merchants.Wilson, in a
small street behind the English church.
Monferrato.
13. AGENTS FOR FORWARDING GOODS.
R. J. Moss & Co., agents for the
Globe Express, and for Moss's line of
Liverpool steamers. H. S. King & Co.
Peninsular and Oriental Company.
Hewatt.
14. RAILWAYS. (See also p. 5.)—The
terminus of the network of Egyptian
railways is near the Moharrem Bey
Gate at the head of the Rue Chérif
Pasha. The old station on the outskirts
of the town beyond the Mahmoodeeyeh
Canal is now used as a
goods station. All the principal towns
in Egypt can now be reached from
Alexandria by railway. The station
of the direct Ramleh Railway is near
the head of the New Port, at the end
of the Boulevard Ramleh. With the
exception of the direct line to Ramleh,
all the railways in Egypt belong to
the Government.
15. STEAMERS.—The following is a
list of the principal steamship companies,
with the ports to which they
run. Further particulars as to dates
of departure, fares, &c., had better be
procured at the respective offices.
Peninsular and Oriental Company:
Brindisi, Ancona, and Venice weekly,
on the arrival of the mails from India;
agent, Joseph Chapman, at the office,
Rue Tewfik Pasha.
Messageries Company: Naples and
Marseilles weekly; and Port Said and
the coast of Syria to Syra, and thence
to Marseilles.
Austrian Lloyd Company: Corfu and
Trieste every Tuesday: two services
to Constantinople, one touching at
Smyrna, Mitylene, Tenedos, the Dardanelles,
the Gallipoli, and the other
calling at Port Said, Jaffa, and Alexandretta.
Rubattino and Co.: Messina, Naples,
Leghorn, and Genoa, every Friday;
agents, Barker and Co., Rue Chérif
Pasha.
Fraissinet and Co.: Malta and Marseilles
fortnightly; and Port Said fortnightly.
The Russian Steam Company: Constantinople,
Athens, Smyrna, and the
Syrian Coast.
Khedivieh Company: two services to
Constantinople, one touching only at
Smyrna, the Dardanelles, and Gallipoli;
and the other calling at Port
Said and all the Syrian ports, both
weekly. There is a weekly service
from Cairo up the Nile to Assooán
during the winter.
There are two lines of steamers to
Liverpool—R. J. Moss and Co.; agents,
Moss and Co., opposite Telegraph
Office: and Cunard; agent, Messrs.
Barker & Co., Ru du Télégraphe.
16. CHURCHES.Church of England:
St. Mark's Church in the Great
Square, Rev. E. J. Davis, Consular
Chaplain. Services on Sundays at
11 A.M. and 3 P.M., and on festivals
at 11 A.M. Established Church of
Scotland:
St. Andrew's Church, Rev.
Dr. Kean. Services on Sundays at
8.30 A.M. (in Arabic, conducted by
the American Mission), and 11 A.M.,
and on board the Bethel ship, seamen's
chapel, at 7 P.M. German and French
Protestant Church
: service on Sundays
at 11 A.M. in French and German
alternately. Roman Catholic Church in the Place de l'Eglise. There are

also Orthodox Greek, Greek Catholic,
Coptic, Armenian and Maronite
churches, and several Jewish synagogues.
As the hours of service are sometimes
altered, it is best to enquire of
the Hotel Porter.
17. BOATS FOR THE NILE VOYAGE.
Travellers are not recommended to hire
boats in Alexandria.
18. PLAN FOR SEEING ALEXANDRIA. —There is nothing of sufficient interest
in Alexandria to detain the
ordinary traveller more than a day;
indeed, he may see the few things
that are likely to interest him in an
afternoon's drive. Thus, starting from
the Great Square, he will drive to the
Ramleh Railway Station, passing by
the English Church, the Bourse, the
Telegraph Offices, and the English
Consulate. He will then make for the
road to the Rosetta Gate, passing the
Zizinia Theatre on the left of that
road, and the fortress of Kom el-Dick
on the right. On issuing from the
Rosetta Gate, before taking the road to
the right down to the Mahmoodeeyeh
Canal, the cemeteries may be visited,
and it may be remembered that on the
ground lying between them and the
shore, extending as far as the “Roman
Tower,” stood the most splendid part of
the old quarter—the Bruchium—comprising
the Palace of the Ptolemies,
the Museum, the Soma, the Gymnasium,
&c. Driving along the canal,
the gardens of the Khedivial Palace
and the Villa Antoniadis may be
visited. Turning back, and keeping
by the side of the canal, a broad road
is reached leading to Alexandria, and,
after following it a short way. Pompey's
Pillar comes in sight. From this spot
a direct return may be made to Alexandria,
the drive having occupied
about 2 1/2 or 3 hours; or if there is
time the route may be continued to the
bridge over the canal, and thence to
Gabari, the Catacombs, and Mex. This
will occupy 1 or 2 hours more, according
to the point reached.
The drive to the Pharos, the Arsenal,
the Palace of Ras-et-Teen, and the
remains of the Forts near Ras-et-Teen,
will occupy about an hour or an hour
and a-half, so that all the above can be
easily done in a day. Energetic
people might even find time to scramble
through the excursion to Ramleh
as well, but it would be better to leave
that for another day. It might form
the afternoon's occupation after a morning
spent in shopping, &c.

DESCRIPTION OF ALEXANDRIA.

PAGE
a. History and Topography, Ancient and Modern 118
b. Principal Ancient Buildings 125
c. Present Remains of Ancient Alexandria 131
d. Population, Ancient and Modern 133
e. Climate 134
f. Local Government 134
g. Commerce and Industry 135
h. Ports, Gates, Walls 135
i. Streets, Public Places, and Buildings 136
j. Canals 137
k. Mosques, Churches, Convents 137
l. Hospitals, Chaities, Societies 138
m. Schools 138
n. Theatres, Amusements, &c. 139
o. Drives, Excursions 139

a. HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY, ANCIENT
AND
MODERN.

Alexandria was founded B.C. 323 on
the site of a small town called Racôtis,
or Rhacôtis, by the great conqueror
after whom it received its name.
Its commodious harbour and other
local recommendations rendered it a
convenient spot for the site of a commercial
city, and its advantageous
position could not fail to strike the
penetrating mind of the son of Philip.
It promised to unite Europe, Arabia,

and India; to be the rival or successor
of Tyre; and to become the emporium
of the world.
In the time of the Pharaonic kings
the trade of Egypt was nearly confined
to the countries bordering on the Arabiah
Gulf; and if, as is possible, India
may be included among the number of
those with which the Egyptians traded
(either directly by water, or through
Arabia), the communication was maintained
by means of that sea, or by land
over the Isthmus of Suez. Indeed, it
is probable that Ænnum (or, as it was
afterwards called, Philoteras Portus),
and the predecessor of Arsinoë, were
the only two ports on the Red Sea
during the rule of the early Pharaohs;
the small harbours (the portus multi of Pliny) being then, as afterwards,
merely places of refuge for vessels in
stress of weather, or at night during a
coasting voyage; and no towns yet
existed on the sites of those known in
later times as Berenice, Nechesia, and
Leucos Portus.
The commercial intercourse with the
N. of Arabia, Syria, and the parts of
Asia to the N. and N.E. of Egypt, was
established by means of caravans, which
entered Egypt by the Isthmus of Suez;
and it was with one of these, on its
way from Syria, that the Ishmaelites
travelled who brought Joseph into
Egypt. They had come “from Gilead,
with their camels bearing spicery, and
balm, and myrrh, going to carry it
down to Egypt;” and this was the
same line of route taken by the Egyptian
armies on their march into Asia.
The Mediterranean was not much
used by the Pharaohs for maritime purposes
connected either with war or
commerce, until the enterprise or the
hostility of strangers began to suggest
its importance. Even then the jealousy,
or the caution, of the Egyptians forbade
foreign merchants to enter any other
than the Canopic, of all the seven
branches of the Nile; and Naucratis
was to them what the factories of a
Chinese port were so long to European
traders. Ships of war, however, were
fitted out upon the Mediterranean,
as well as on the Red Sea, even in the
age of the XVIIIth Dynasty; and in
after times an expedition was sent
against Cyprus by Apries, who also
defeated the Tyrians in a naval combat.
The Egyptians had been satisfied
with their river as their harbour; but
when the advantages of a more extended
commercial intercourse with
Europe, and the possibility of diverting
the course of the lucrative trade with
India and Arabia from Syria to Egypt,
were contemplated, the necessity of a
port on the Mediterranean coast became
evident; and the advantages offered by
the position of Rhacôtis with its Isle of
Pharos pointed it out as a proper place
for establishing the projected emporium
of the East.
Tradition had fixed on this spot as
the abode of the fabulous Proteus,
called by Virgil and others a sea-god
and prophet, by Herodotus and Diodorus
a king of Egypt; whose pretended appearance
under various forms is gravely
attributed by Lucian to his postures in
the dance, and by Diodorus to his
knowledge of astrology, or to the supposed
custom of the king's assuming
various dresses to impose on the credulity
of the people. Though, after all
these statements, there seems to be
only one doubt, which is the greatest
improbability, the story, or the explanation.
After his conquest of Syria, Alexander
had advanced into Egypt, and, by
the taking of Memphis, had secured to
himself the possession of the whole
country. While at Memphis he conceived
the idea of visiting the temple
of Jupiter Ammon in the African
desert; and with this view he descended
the river to the sea. He then
followed the coast westward from Canopus
until, his attention being struck
with a spot opposite the Isle of Pharos,
he stopped to examine its position, and
the advantages it offered as a naval
station. It had been occasionally used
as a refuge for ships at a very remote
period, and Homer had mentioned it
as a watering-place at the time of the
Trojan war.
According to Strabo, the ancient
Egyptian kings, seeing that it was a
spot frequented by foreigners, and particularly
by Greeks, and being averse

to the admission of strangers (who
were then frequently pirates), stationed
a garrison there, and assigned to them
as a permanent abode the village of
Rhacôtis, which was afterwards part
of Alexandria.
“The Island of Pharos,” says the
geographer, “is of oblong form, standing
near the shore, and forming by its
position an admirable port. The coast
here curves into a large bay, with two
promontories jutting out into the sea,
on its eastern and western extremities;
between which is the island, furnishing
a barrier in the middle of the bay.”
This island was afterwards connected
with the mainland by a dyke, and on
a rock close to its extremity was built
the famous tower of Pharos.
Alexander, on arriving there, seeing
how eligible a spot this natural harbour
offered for building a city, lost no time
in making arrangements for its commencement.
The plan was drawn
out, and Dinocrates, the architect, was
commissioned to build the new city,
which, from its founder, received the
name of Alexandria.
Pliny, in speaking of the foundation
of Alexandria, says, it was “built by
Alexander the Great on the African
coast, 12 miles from the Canopic mouth
of the Nile, on the Mareotic Lake,
which was formerly called Arapotes;
that Dinochares, an architect of great
celebrity, laid down the plan, resembling
the shape of a Macedonian
mantle, with a circular border full of
plaits, and projecting into corners on
the right and left; the fifth part of
its site being even then dedicated to
the palace.” This architect is better
known by the name of Dinocrates;
and is the same who rebuilt the famous
temple of Ephesus, after its destruction
by Eratostratus, and who had previously
proposed to Alexander to cut
Mount Athos into a statue of the king
holding in one hand a city of 10,000
inhabitants, and from the other pouring
a copious river into the sea. But
the naturalist gives us very little information
respecting the public buildings
or monuments of the city.
In Plutarch's life of Alexander is
a fabulous story of the foundation of
Alexandria, related by the people
of the place, who pretended its commencement
to have been owing to “a
vision, wherein a grey-headed old man
of venerable aspect appeared to stand
before the king in his sleep, and to
pronounce these words:—


“High over the gulfy sea the Pharian isle
Fronts the deep roar of disemboguing Nile.”
“Upon this Alexander repaired to
Pharos, which was then an island,
lying a little above the Canopic mouth
of the Nile, though now joined to the
continent by a causeway. As soon as
he saw the commodious situation of
the spot opposite the island, being a
neck of land of a suitable breadth,
with a great lake on one side, and on
the other the sea, which there forms
a capacious haven, he said, ‘Homer,
besides his other excellent qualities,
was a very good architect,’ and ordered
the plan of the city to be drawn corresponding
to the locality. For want
of chalk, the soil being black, they
made use of flour, with which they
drew a line about the simicircular bay
that forms the port. This was again
marked out with straight lines, and
the form of the city resembled that
of a Macedonian cloak. While Alexander
was pleasing himself with this
project, an infinite number of birds
of several kinds, rising suddenly, like
a black cloud out of the river and the
lake, devoured all the flour that had
been used in marking out the lines:
at which omen he was much troubled,
till the augurs encouraged him to proceed,
by observing that it was a sign
the city he was about to build would
enjoy such abundance of all things
that it would contribute to the nourishment
of many nations. He therefore
commanded the workmen to go on,
while he went to visit the temple of
Jupiter Ammon.”
Hom. Od., 354.
Strabo gives the following description
of
Alexandria when he visited it in the
year 24 B.C., 24 years after the passage
of Caesar, and when Œlius Gallus was

prefect of Egypt. “Alexandria possesses,”
he says, “advantages of more
than one kind. Two seas wash it on
both sides, one on the north, denominated
the Egyptian, the other on the
south, which is the Lake Marea, called
also Mareotis. The latter is fed by
several canals from the Nile, as well
from above as from the sides; and by
it many more things are brought to
Alexandria than by the sea, so that
the port on the lake side is richer
than that on the coast. By this, also,
more is exported from Alexandria than
imported into it, which any one who
has been at Alexandria and Dicaearchia
must have perceived, in looking at
the merchant ships trading to and
fro, and comparing the cargoes that
enter and leave those two harbours.
Besides the wealth that pours in on
either side, both by the seaport and
the lake, the salubrity of the air should
also be noticed, which is caused by the
peninsular situation of the place and
by the opportune rising of the Nile.
Other cities situated on lakes have a
heavy and suffocating atmosphere
during the summer heats, and, in consequence
of the evaporation caused by
the sun, the banks of those lakes
becoming marshy, a noxious exhalation
is generated, which produces pestilential
fevers; but at Alexandria the
inundation of the Nile fills the lake in
the summer season, and, by preventing
its becoming marshy, effectually checks
any unwholesome vapours. At that
time, also, the Etesian winds, blowing
from the northward, and passing over
so much sea, secure to the Alexandrians
a most delightful summer.
“The site of the city has the form
of a (Macedonian) mantle, whose two
longest sides are bathed by water to
the extent of nearly 30 stadia, and its
breadth is 7 or 8 stadia, with the sea
on one side and the lake on the other.
The whole is intersected with spacious
streets, through which horses and
chariots pass freely; but two are of
greater breadth than the rest, being
upwards of a plethrum wide, and these
intersect each other at right angles.
Its temples, grand public buildings,
and palaces occupy a fourth or a third
of the whole extent: for every successive
king, aspiring to the honour of
embellishing these consecrated monuments,
added something of his own to
what already existed. All these parts
are not only connected with each other,
but with the port and the buildings
that stand outside of it.
“Part of the palace is called the
museum. It has corridors, a court,
and a very large mansion, in which is
the banqueting-room of those learned
men who belong to it. This society
has a public treasury, and is superintended
by a president, one of the
priesthood, whose office, having been
established by the Ptolemies, continues
under Caesar.
“Another portion of the palace is
called Soma ('the body'), which contains
within its circuit the tombs of
the kings, and of Alexander. For
Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, took the
body of Alexander from Perdiccas,
while on its removal from Babylon; and
having carried it to Egypt, buried it
at Alexandria, where it still remains.
But it is no longer in the same coffin;
for the present one is of glass, and the
original, which was of gold, was stolen
by Ptolemy surnamed Cocces ()
and Parisactus (), though
his immediate fall prevented his benefiting
by the robbery.
“On the right as you sail into the
great harbour are the island and tower
of Pharos; on the left, rocks, and the
promontory of Lochias, where the
palace stands; and, as you advance on
the left, contiguous to the buildings
at the Lochias, are the inner palaces,
which have various compartments and
groves. Below them is a secret and
closed port, belonging exclusively to
the kings, and the Isle of Antirhodus,
which lies before the artificial port,
with a palace and a small harbour. It
has received this name as if it were
a rival of Rhodes. Above this is the
theatre, then the Posidium, a certain
cove sweeping round from what is
called the Emporium, with a temple
of Neptune. Antony, having made a
mole in this part projecting still further
into the port, erected at its extremity
a palace, which he named Timonium.

This he did at the end of his career,
when he had been deserted by his
friends, after his misfortunes at Actium,
and had retired to Alexandria, intending
to lead a secluded life there, and
imitate the example of Timon. Beyond
are the Caesarium and emporium
(market), the recesses, and the docks,
extending to the Heptastadium. All
these are in the great harbour.
“On the other side of the Heptastadium
is the port of Eunostus; and
above this is an artificial or excavated
one, called Kibôtus (the basin), which
has also docks. A navigable canal
runs into it from the lake Mareotis,
and a small portion of the town extends
beyond (to the W. of) this canal.
Further on are the Necropolis and the
suburbs, where there are many gardens
and tombs, with apartments set
apart for embalming the dead. Within
(to the E. of) the canal are the Serapeum,
and other ancient fanes, deserted
since the erection of the temples at
Nicopolis, where also the amphitheatre
and stadium are situated, and where
the quinquennial games are celebrated;
the old establishments being now in
little repute. The city, indeed, to
speak briefly, is filled with ornamental
buildings and temples, the most beautiful
of which is the Gymnasium, with
porticoes in the interior, measuring
upwards of a stade. There, too, are
the courts of law, and the groves; and
in this direction stands the Panium,
an artificial height of a conical form,
like a stone tumulus, with a spiral
ascent. From its summit the whole
city may be seen, stretching on all
sides below.
“From the Necropolis a street extends
the whole way to the Canopic
Gate, passing by the Gymnasium. Beyond
are the Hippodrome and other
buildings, reaching to the Canopic
canal. After going out (of the city)
by the Hippodrome, you come to Nicopolis,
built by the sea-side, not less
than three stades distant from Alexandria.
Augustus Caesar ornamented
this place, in consequence of his having
there defeated the partisans of Antony,
and captured the city in his advance
from that spot.”
The circumference of ancient Alexandria
is said by Pliny to have been
15 m.; and we have seen that Strabo
gives it a diameter of 30 stadia, or as
Diodorus says, a length of 40 stadia.
The epithet “beautiful” is twice applied
to it by Athenaeus; and we may
judge of its magnificence from the
fact that the Romans themselves considered
it inferior only to their own
capital.
“The lucrative trade of Arabia and
India,” says Gibbon, “flowed through
the port of Alexandria to the capital
and provinces of the empire. Idleness
was unknown. Some were employed
in blowing of glass, others in weaving
of linen; others, again, in manufacturing
the papyrus. Either sex, and
every age, was engaged in the pursuits
of industry, nor did even the blind or
the lame want occupation suited to
their condition. But the people of
Alexandria, a various mixture of nations,
united the vanity and inconstancy
of the Greeks with the superstition
and obstinacy of the Egyptians.
The most trifling occasion, a transient
scarcity of flesh or lentils, the neglect
of an accustomed salutation, a mistake
of precedency in the public baths, or
even a religious dispute, were at any
time sufficient to kindle a sedition
among that vast multitude, whose resentments
were furious and implacable.”
Such was Alexandria under the
Ptolemies and the Caesars, a worldrenowned
city of 500,000 souls, adorned
with the arts of Greece and the wealth
of Egypt; its schools of learning far
outshone anything that Heliopolis had
ever boasted of, and Thebes and
Memphis in their palmiest days had
never presented so much luxury and
magnificence. But at the commencement
of the third century its splendour
and renown began to wane, and all
that we know of its history from that
period is nothing but a sad picture of
decay. Constant revolts—arising sometimes
from political, sometimes from
religious causes—necessitated severe
measures of repression, which gradually
brought about its ruin. But notwithstanding
the disasters to which it had

been exposed, especially in the reigns
of Aurelian and Theodosius, and the
destruction of many of its most magnificent
public buildings, it must still
have been a wonderful city when Amer
took it, in A.D. 641, after a siege of 14
months; for that general, in his letter
to the Caliph Omar, informing him of
the conquest he had made, says that
he had found there 4000 palaces, a like
number of baths, 400 places of amusement,
and 12,000 gardens, and that
one quarter alone was occupied by
40,000 Jews.
The commerce of Alexandria, which
was the great source of its wealth, had
been for some time on the decline, but
after this great conquest it decreased
so rapidly, and the city consequently
shrank so much in size and importance,
that towards the end of the ninth century,
Ahmed-ibn-Tooloon pulled down
the old walls, and built new ones of
an extent more adapted to the city's
diminished limits. What little prosperity
it still enjoyed was put an end
to by the discovery of the Cape route
to India; and the conquest of Egypt
by the Turks gave the final blow. In
1777 the traveller Savary estimated
the Turkish population of Alexandria
at only 6000 souls, living in miserable
dwellings, built on the Heptastadium,
the width of which had been gradually
increased by the débris of the ancient
city. The Arab part of the modern
city still occupies the same site. In
the early part of the present century
Alexandria and its neighbourhood was
the scene of the conflict between
France and England for supremacy in
the East. Soon after Mohamed Ali
began to rule Egypt he turned his
attention to the restoration of its
ancient capital, more especially with a
view to the formation of a navy. New
buildings sprang up in every direction;
the Frank quarter was developed, and
such an impulse given to the place in
every way by him and his successors,
that at the present day the population
is reckoned at 231,000 souls. Its becoming
the centre of steam communication
between Europe and India, and
the principal station on the Overland
route, has been one great cause of the
rapid progress it has made of late
years; and though some of the traffic
will be diverted from its ports to Port
Said and the , the improvements
which have been made in the
harbour, and the facilities for transhipment
and quick and easy passage by
rail to Suez, will always prevent its
being completely put on one side in the
commercial dealings of the East and
West; while for the trade of Egypt
itself, so rapidly increasing in importance
and extent, it must ever remain
the most natural and commodious emporium.
A study of the topography of modern
Alexandria would be as dull and uninteresting
as that of the ancient city
is instructive and entertaining. The
principal public buildings stand on
the peninsula of Ras-et-Teen, the old
island of Pharos; the town is built on
the isthmus which connects that peninsula
with the mainland, and which
formerly was the only artificial dyke
called the Heptastadium: constant
accumulation of soil and ruins have
made its present width. The Arab
quarter, extending from the harbour to
the Great Square, is an agglomeration
of dirty, narrow, and tortuous streets,
without a single object of interest, and
the bazaars in it are mean and illprovided.
A considerable part of the
European town was burned in July 1882
after the bombardment of the forts by
the English fleet, but it is now being
rapidly rebuilt, and the streets will
compare favourably with those in the
best cities of Europe.
The construction of the breakwater
and other improvements in the harbour
of Alexandria has had the effect of increasing
its commercial importance.
Up to 1882 its trade steadily improved,
but the rebellion of Araby caused a
temporary check to its progress. The
massacre of a number of Europeans in
Alexandria on the 11th of June, 1882,
was the first serious act in the drama.
This was followed by preparations on
the part of the Egyptians to make the
forts more defensible, and, under the
actual circumstances, this could only
be taken as a direct menace to the
English fleet, which was lying in the

harbour. Admiral Sir Beauchamp
Seymour obtained permission from the
English government to open fire on the
forts if he considered it necessary to do
so, and on the 9th July he sent an
ultimatum to the Egyptian authorities
to the effect that if the work going on
in certain forts was not stopped, he
would attack the forts. No satisfactory
reply having been sent, the English
fleet steamed out of Alexandria on the
10th July, and opened fire on the forts
the following morning. The Egyptians
returned the fire with considerable
vigour, but their guns were for the
most part silenced before evening. On
the next day the Egyptian garrison
was withdrawn from Alexandria to
Kafr Dowar, and the city was handed
over to a rabble, who succeeded in
burning down a large part of it. It is
sometimes supposed that it was the
fire of the English fleet which set fire
to Alexandria, but this is an error.
The guns of the ships were aimed
solely at the forts, and very few shells
fell in the town.
It was some time after the fire before
Alexandria gained its former position,
but the payment of 4,000,000l. as indemnities
to those whose property was
destroyed seems quite to have restored
its former prosperity.

b. PRINCIPAL ANCIENT BUILDINGS.

The Pharos, one of the seven wonders
of the world, was the well-known tower
or lighthouse, whose name continues
to be applied to similar structures to the
present day. It was a square building
of white marble, several stories high;
each successive storey diminished in
size towards the top, and had a gallery
running round it supported on the
outer circle of the story beneath: the
staircases inside were of such a gentle
incline that horses and chariots could
easily ascend them; a peculiarity of
which the round tower of the Castle of
Amboise in France presents a similar
instance. The cost is said to have
been 800 talents, which, if in Attic
money, is about 155,000l. sterling, or
double that sum if computed by the
talent of Alexandria. It was built by
order of Ptolemy Philadelphus, whose
magnanimity in allowing the name of
the architect to be inscribed upon so
great a work, instead of his own, is
highly commended by Pliny. The inscription
ran in these words: “Sostratus
of Cnidos, the son of Dexiphanes,
to the Saviour Gods, for those who
travel by sea.” But, besides the improbability
of the king allowing an
architect to enjoy the sole merit of so
great a work, we have the authority of
Lucian for believing that the name
of Ptolemy was affixed to the Pharos,
instead of that of Sostratus, the original
inscription having been—”King
Ptolemy to the Saviour Gods, for the
use of those who travel by sea.”
Sostratus, however, to secure the glory
to himself in future ages, carved the
former inscription on the stone, and
that of Ptolemy on stucco, which he
placed over it; so that in process of
time, when the stucco fell, the only
record was that of the deceitful architect.
According to the Arab historian
Abd el-Atif, this wonderful structure
was still existing in the 13th century,
but no remains of it are now to be
seen.
The Pharos itself stood on a rock
close to the N.E. extremity of the
island of the same name, with which
it communicated by means of a wall,
near the position of the large castle,
now known as Fort Pharos, and
the island was also joined to the
shore by a large causeway, called,
from its length of seven stades, the
Heptastadium. It was already constructed,
as Josephus shows, in the
reign of the same Ptolemy, which
therefore implies that it was the work
either of Philadelphus himself, or his
father Soter, and not of Cleopatra, as
Ammianus Marcellinus supposes; who
even attributes to the same princess
the erection of the Pharos itself.
These erroneous notions of the historian
may probably have originated
in the tradition of some repairs made
by Cleopatra, after the Alexandrian
war. The causeway was similar to
that of Tyre; and though, by connecting
the island with the shore, it
formed a separation between the two

ports, it did not cut off all communication
from one to the other, two
bridges being left for this purpose,
beneath which boats and small vessels
might freely pass. As the Heptastadium
served for an aqueduct as well
as a road to the Pharos, it is probable
that the openings were arched; and
the mention of these passages satisfactorily
accounts for the difference of
name applied to the causeway by
ancient writers; some, as Strabo, calling
it a mole, and others a bridge, connecting
the Pharos with the town.
The name of this causeway was derived
from its length of 7 stadia, about
3/4 of a mile, or 4270 English feet, which
was at that time the distance from the
shore to the island. The form of the
Heptastadium is no longer perceptible,
in consequence of the modern buildings
having encroached upon it; but its
length of 7 stadia, or, as Cæsar reckons,
900 paces, may be readily made out, in
measuring from the site of the old
Saracenic wall behind the Frank quarter.
And, though its breadth has been
greatly increased by the accumulation
of earth on which the modern town
stands, a line drawn from the site of
that wall to what was properly the
island of Pharos would probably mark
its exact position.
The Museum founded by Ptolemy
Soter was a noble institution, which
tended greatly to the renown of Alexandria;
and from which issued those
men of learning who have so many
claims on the gratitude and admiration
of posterity. It was to this school of
philosophy that the once renowned
college of Heliopolis transferred its
reputation; and that venerable city,
which had been the resort of the sages
of Ancient Greece, ceded to Alexandria
the honour of being the seat of learning,
and the repository of the “wisdom
of the Egyptians.” Science, literature,
and every branch of philosophy continued
to flourish there for many a
generation; foreigners repaired thither
to study and profit by “the instruction
of every kind for which its schools
were established;” and the names of
Euclid, Eratosthenes, Hipparchus, Ctesibius,
and the elder and younger
Herôn, Clemens, Origen, Athanasius,
Ammonius, Theôn, and his daughter
Hypatia, shed a brilliant lustre over the
Greek capital of Egypt.
To its strictly secular character as
a Greek philosophical institution, entirely
unconnected with either the
ancient Egyptian or Christian religions,
may perhaps be attributed the
fact that, notwithstanding the wild
farrago of nonsense which at one time
encumbered the speculations of Alexandrian
philosophy, its schools of
astronomy, geology, physic, and various
branches of science, maintained their
reputation till the period of the Arab
conquest.
Attached to the Museum was the
famous Library, also founded by Ptolemy
Soter, and to which so many
additions were made by his successor,
Ptolemy Philadelphus, that already at
the death of the latter it contained no
less than 100,000 volumes. No pains
were spared in adding to this collection.
A copy of every known work was
reputed to be deposited there, and it
was amongst them that the Septuagint
translation of the Bible, made by order
of Ptolemy Philadelphus, was placed.
Of the arrangements respecting this
translation, and the reception of his
countrymen, Josephus gives an interesting
account; but, always ready to
show the great importance of the Jews,
he forgets probability in this as in
many other instances, and informs us
that each of the seventy-two interpreters
received three talents. This,
if computed in Alexandrian money,
amounts to 3,100l. sterling, making a
total of 223,200l.: a sum which not
even the supposed munificence of a
Ptolemy can render credible; and some
are inclined to compute the amount
still higher, even at two millions of
our money.
Nor does it appear that the Ptolemies
were always so liberally disposed,
or so scrupulous in their way of obtaining
additions to their library; and
though they spared no expense in
sending competent persons into distant
countries to purchase books, much
tyranny and injustice were resorted

to, when they could bring their possessors
within their reach, or when
other states were generous enough to
send them an original work. All books
brought into the country were seized,
and sent to the Library; and, as soon
as they had been transcribed, the
copies were returned to the owners, the
originals being deposited in the Library.
Ptolemy Euergetes even went so far
as to borrow the works of Æschylus,
Sophocles, and Euripides from the
Athenians, and only returned the
copies he had caused to be transcribed
in as beautiful a manner as
possible, presenting them, in lieu of
the original, 15 talents, or about 2,906l.
sterling.
The library of the Museum was unfortunately
destroyed during the war
of Julius Cæsar with the Alexandrians.
For, in order to prevent his aggressors
cutting off his communication with the
sea, being obliged to set fire to the
Egyptian, or, as Plutarch says, his own,
fleet, the flames accidentally caught
some of the houses on the port, and,
spreading thence to the quarter of the
Bruchion, burnt the library, and threatened
destruction to the whole of the
Museum and the adjoining buildings.
The Museum itself escaped, but the
famous library, consisting of 400,000
volumes, which had cost so much
trouble and expense for ages to collect,
was lost for ever; and in it doubtless
some very valuable works of antiquity,
many of whose names may even be
unknown to us.
The Museum stood, as already stated,
in the quarter of the Bruchion. According
to Strabo, it was a very large
building, attached to the palace, surrounded
by an exterior peristyle, or
corridor, for walking; and it is probable
that the philosophers frequently
taught beneath this covered space, as
in the stoa of Athens, or in the grove
of Academus. It is difficult now to
point out with any precision its exact
site, but it probably stood on a spot
where some ruins have been discovered,
on the site of the New Bourse, and
exactly opposite to the Khedivial
Hotel. When the foundations were
dug for the Bourse in 1884, these ruins
were visible, but are now covered up
with the new buildings.
The Serapeum , or Serapeion, was
founded by Ptolemy Soter, as reported
by Plutarch and others, for the
reception of the statue of Serapis, a
foreign deity whose worship was introduced
from Sinope. It stood in that
part of the city which had formerly
been occupied by Rhacôtis, the predecessor
of Alexandria, and was embellished
with such magnificence that
Ammianus Marcellinus pronounces it
unequalled by any building in the
world, except the Capitol at Rome. It
appears not only to have contained the
temple of the deity, but to have consisted,
like the Museum, of several distinct
parts, such as a library and
peristylar halls, adorned with beautiful
works of art.
The Serapeum existed long after
the introduction of Christianity into
Egypt, as the last hold of the Pagans
of Alexandria. Nor did it lose its
importance, as Strabo would lead us to
suppose, from the number of rival
temples, or the increasing consequence
of Nicopolis; and it continued to be
their chief resort until finally demolished
by order of Theodosius, A.D. 389,
when the votaries of the cross entirely
subverted the ancient religion of Egypt.
M. Ampère says, “Le Sérapeum était
le Palladium de la religion Egyptienne
et de la philosophie Grecque. A
l'époque de sa destruction il représentait
l'alliance que toutes deux avaient
fini par former contre l'ennemi, la religion
Chrétienne.” The building and
its destruction are thus described by
Gibbon. The temple of Serapis,
“which rivalled the pride and magnificence
of the Capitol, was erected on
the spacious summit of an artificial
mount, raised one hundred steps above
the level of the adjacent parts of the
city; and the interior cavity was
strongly supported by arches, and distributed
into vaults and subterraneous
apartments. The consecrated buildings
were surrounded by a quadrangular
portico: the stately halls, the
exquisite statues, displayed the triumph
of the arts; and the treasures

of ancient learning were preserved in
the famous Alexandrian library, which
had arisen with new splendour from its
ashes.”
But in progress of time the animosity
of the Christians was directed
against this edifice; the “pious indignation
of Theophilus” could no longer
tolerate the honours paid to Serapis;
“and the insults which he offered to
an ancient chapel of Bacchus convinced
the Pagans that he meditated a more
important and dangerous enterprise.
In the tumultuous capital of Egypt,
the slightest provocation was sufficient
to inflame a civil war. The votaries
of Serapis, whose strength and numbers
were much inferior to those of their
antagonists, rose in arms at the instigation
of the philosopher Olympius,
who exhorted them to die in defence
of the altars of the gods. These Pagan
fanatics fortified themselves in the
temple, or rather fortress of Serapis;
repelled the besiegers by daring sallies
and a resolute defence; and, by the
inhuman cruelties which they exercised
on their Christian prisoners, obtained
the last consolation of despair.
The efforts of the prudent magistrate
were usefully exerted for the establishment
of a truce, till the answer of
Theodosius should determine the fate
of Serapis. The two parties assembled
without arms in the principal square;
and the imperial rescript was publicly
read. But when a sentence of destruction
against the idols of Alexandria
was pronounced, the Christians set up
a shout of joy and exultation, whilst
the unfortunate Pagans, whose fury
had given way to consternation, retired
with hasty and silent steps, and eluded,
by their flight or obscurity, the resentment
of their enemies. Theophilus
proceeded to demolish the temple of
Serapis, without any other difficulties
than those which he found in the
weight and solidity of the materials;
but these obstacles proved so insuperable
that he was obliged to leave the
foundations, and to content himself
with reducing the edifice itself to a
heap of rubbish; a part of which was
soon afterwards cleared away, to make
room for a church, erected in honour
of the Christian martyrs.… The
colossal statue of Serapis was involved
in the ruin of his temple and religion.
A great number of plates of different
metals, artificially joined together
composed the majestic figure of the
deity, who touched on either side the
walls of the sanctuary. The huge idol
was overthrown and broken to pieces;
and the parts of Serapis were ignominiously
dragged through the streets
of Alexandria.”
The Library of the Serapeum was
scarcely less famous than that of the
Museum. Of the 700,000 volumes of
which the Alexandrian library as a
whole consisted, 300,000 were in the
Serapeum. This number included the
200,000 volumes belonging to the
kings of Pergamus, and presented to
Cleopatra by Marc Antony. It was to
prevent the increase of the Pergamus
library that Ptolemy Epiphanes forbade
the exportation of the Egyptian papyrus
on which the volumes contained
in it were written, whereupon “the
copiers employed by Eumenes, king of
Pergamus, wrote their books upon
sheepskins, which were called Charta
Pergamena, or parchment, from the
name of the city in which they were
written. Thus our own two words,
parchment from Pergamus, and paper from papyrus, remain as monuments
of the rivalry in bookmaking between
the two kings.
The collection in the Serapeum was
also exposed to severe losses, at a subsequent
period, during the troubles
that occurred in the Roman empire.
Many of the books are supposed to
have been destroyed on those occasions,
particularly at the time when
the Serapeum was attacked by the
Christians; and Orosius says he was
at that time a witness of its empty
shelves. We may, however, conclude
that these losses were afterwards in
some degree repaired, and the number
of its volumes still further increased;
though later contributions were probably
not of the same importance as
those of an earlier period: and Gibbon
goes so far as to suppose that, if the
library was really destroyed by Amers,

its contents were confined to the productions
of an age when religious controversy
constituted the principal occupation
of the Alexandrians. “And,”
adds the historian, “if the ponderous
mass of Arian and Monophysite controversy
were indeed consumed in the
public baths, a philosopher may allow,
with a smile, that it was ultimately
devoted to the benefit of mankind.”
But, notwithstanding the injuries sustained
by the Serapeum during those
tumults which ruined so many of the
monuments of Alexandria, which converted
every public building into a
citadel, and subjected the whole city
to the horrors of internal war, many,
doubtless, of the ancient volumes still
remained within its precincts; and the
Kaliph Omar will for ever bear the
odium of having devoted to destruction
that library whose numerous volumes
are said to have sufficed for six months
for the use of the 4000 baths of this
immense city.
It is related of John the Grammarian,
the last disciple of Ammonius,
surnamed Philoponus from his laborious
studies of grammar and philosophy,
that having been admitted to
the friendship of Amer, the lieutenant
of the Khalif Omar, he took advantage
of his intimacy with the Arab
general to intercede for the preservation
of the library of the captured city,
which “alone, among the spoils of
Alexandria, had not been appropriated
by the visit and the seal of the conqueror.
Amrou (Amer) was inclined
to gratify the wish of the grammarian,
but his rigid integrity refused to alienate
the minutest object without the
consent of the khalif; and the answer
of Omar, inspired by the ignorance of
a fanatic, ‘If these writings of the
Greeks agree with the Book of God,
they are useless, and need not be preserved;
if they disagree, they are pernicious,
and ought to be destroyed,’”
doomed them to destruction. Such was
the sentence said to have been pronounced
by the impetuous Omar. The
Moslems, however, to this day, deny
its truth; and Gibbon observes, that
“the solitary report of a stranger
(Abulpharagius), who wrote at the
end of 600 years, on the confines of
Media, is overbalanced by the silence
of two annalists of a more early date,
both Christians, both natives of Egypt,
and the most ancient of whom, the
patriarch Eutychus, has amply described
the conquest of Alexandria.”
But the admission of some Arab
writers, cited by the learned De Sacy
in his notes on Abd el-Latif, seems to
confirm the truth of Omar's vandalism;
the authorities of Makrizi and
Abd el-Latif are of considerable weight,
notwithstanding the silence even of
contemporary Christian annalists; and
whilst we regret the destruction of this
library, we may wish that the capture
of Alexandria had happened half or a
whole century later; when, instead of
destroyers, the Arabs assumed the
character of preservers of ancient
literature.
The site of the Cæsareum, or temple
of Cæsar, was close to the spot now
occupied by the Ramleh Railway station.
Near this spot was the palace of
the kings on the point called Lochias,
on the left of the great harbour, which
is the same as the headland behind the
modern Pharillon. The tombs of the
kings, also, stood in this district, and
formed part of the palace under the
name of “Sôma.” In this enclosure
the Ptolemies were buried, as well as
the founder of the city, whose body,
having been brought to Egypt, and
kept at Memphis while the tomb was
preparing, was taken thence to Alexandria,
and deposited in the royal
cemetery.
Arab tradition has long continued to
record the existence of the Tomb of
Alexander
; and Leo Africanus mentions
a “small edifice standing in the
midst of the mounds of Alexander,
built like a chapel, remarkable for the
tomb where the body of the great
prophet and king Alexander is preserved.
It is highly honoured by the
Moslems; and a great concourse of
strangers from foreign lands who, with
feelings of religious veneration, visit
this tomb, often leave their many
charitable donations.” The building
traditionally reported to be the tomb of

Alexander, was found by Mr. Stoddart
amidst the mounds of the old city. It
resembles an ordinary Sheykh's tomb,
and is near the bath to the west of the
road leading from the Frank quarter
to the Pompey's Pillar Gate. But
its position does not agree with the
“Sôma,” according to Strabo's account;
and the authority of Arab tradition
cannot always be trusted.
The sarcophagus, said to have been
looked upon by the people of Alexandria
as the tomb of Alexander, was
taken by the French from the mosque
of Athanasius, and is now in the British
Museum: but as the hieroglyphics on
it prove it to have belonged to an
Egyptian Pharaoh, its authenticity
must be considered as more than
doubtful.
The Island of Antirhodus, the Posidium,
the Timonium, the Emporium,
the ports of Eunostus and Kibôtus, and
the Necropolis have been described in
Strabo's account given at pp. 122-3.
The Island of Antirhodus, the Timonium
and pier leading to it, have completely
disappeared.
The Panium, or Temple of Pan.
described by Strabo as an artificial
height, in the shape of a top, resembling
a stone mound, with a spiral
ascent, and commanding a view of the
whole city, was supposed by Pococke
to have been marked by a hill within
the walls behind the Frank quarter,
since occupied by Fort Kom el-Dick,
which is built on ancient substructions.
Some have conjectured it to have been
the height on which Pompey's Pillar
stands, and others have placed it on
the redoubt-hill to the W. of that
monument.
The Gymnasium stood near the street
which extended from the western or
Necropolis Gate to that on the Canopic
or eastern side; which were distant
from each other 40 stadia, the street
being 100 ft. broad. It had porticoes
covering the space of an eighth of a
mile, of which Pococke conjectures
the granite columns near the main
street to be the remains. The Forum he places between this and the sea;
and he attempts to fix the site of the
Necropolis Gate on the S. of the present
town. Two large streets were a
few years ago clearly traced, as well
as the spot where they intersected
each other at right angles. One of
these was probably the street mentioned
by Strabo as running from the
Mareotic or Sun Gate to the sea; the
other, though not the corresponding
cross main street, was one of some
consequence, as is proved by the columns
and the remains of buildings
that could then be seen throughout its
course: and if there is a difficulty in
ascribing these or other ruins to any
particular edifice, it may readily be
accounted for in a city which, as Diodorus
observes, contained a succession
of temples and splendid mansions.
Outside the modern walls, and at
the extreme N.E. corner of the old
city, was the Jews' quarter, or Regio
Judæorum, separated from the Bruchion
by its own wall: and though not
so extensive as some would lead us to
suppose, it was inhabited by a large
population, governed by its own Ethnarch,
and enjoying great privileges
granted at various times by the Cæsars.
Its site was between the palaces and
the modern tomb of Sheykh Shaktbek,
and near this is the Jewish cemetery
at the present day.
The Rosetta Gate is the eastern
entrance of the large walled circuit which lies to the S. and S.E. of the
modern town. The space it encloses
is about 10,000 ft. long, by 3200 in the
broadest, and 1600 in the narrowest
part. This is now a very favourite
part of the town, and new houses are
being rapidly constructed. The site of
the old Canopic Gate lay very much
farther to the E. than the modern entrance
on that side. Indeed the circuit
has been so much diminished that the
latter stands on what was once part of
the street leading to the Canopic Gate,
whose site was about half a mile
further to the eastward. The wall of
the ancient city, on that side, passed
under the lofty mounds occupied by
the French lines before the battle of
Alexandria; and the remains of masonry,
its evident line of direction,

and the termination of the mounds of
the town in that part, sufficiently show
its position.

e. PRESENT REMAINS OF ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA.

Of the magnificent city described
by Strabo it may be said that hardly
a vestige remains. Two striking relics
indeed existed till quite lately, viz. the
obelisks commonly called Cleopatra's
Needles
, of which one had fallen, and
the other remained erect; but the
former has been removed to England,
and the other has gone to America.
They stood originally at Heliopolis,
but were brought to Alexandria in
the 8th year of Augustus, and set up
in front of the temple of Cæsar, or the
Cæsarium, by Barbarus the prefect,
and Pontius his architect. One account
indeed assigns the erection of
this temple to Cleopatra, to commemorate
the birth of her son by Julius
Cæsar; and if this story were true, it
would explain the origin of the traditional
name. Both obelisks are of
red granite of Syene, the one (that in
England) 68 ft. 6 in. high, the other,
67 ft.; the diameter of each at the
base is 7 ft. 7 in. They were originally
mounted on bronze feet in the form of
crabs. Among the hieroglyphs carved
on them are the names of Thothmes III.,
Rameses II., and Sethi II., his successor.
The fallen obelisk was given by
Mohamed Ali to the English, who
were desirous of removing it as a record
of their successes in Egypt, and of
the glorious termination of the campaign
of 1801. The Pasha even offered
to transport it free of expense to the
shore, and put it on board any vessel
or raft; but the project was abandoned,
its mutilated state, and the obliteration
of many of the hieroglyphics by exposure
to the sea-air, seeming to render
it unworthy the expense of removal.
Accordingly it lay on the ground,
generally completely covered with
débris, till 1877, when two private
individuals, Mr. Erasmus Wilson and
Mr. John Dixon, undertook to bring
it over, the latter undertaking to
provide the mechanical means, and
the former offering to give 10,000l. towards the expense. It was encased
in an iron cylinder where it
lay, and then rolled into the sea.
After being fitted with a rudder, deck-house,
cabin, &c., in the harbour of
Alexandria, it started on its voyage
in the winter of 1877, in tow of a
steamer. Owing to rough weather,
the “Cleopatra” was abandoned by
its tug in the Bay of Biscay. It was
found, however, after some days, and
taken into Ferrol, whence it was safely
towed to London in January 1878,
and in October of the same year the
obelisk was put up on the Thames
Embankment. The Americans have
since succeeded in removing the companion
obelisk.
The site of the two obelisks is
rapidly being covered with modern
houses, so that the removal of them is
not to be regretted.
The most striking monumental relic
of Alexandria is the column called
Pompey's Pillar. It stands near the
Mohammedan burial-place on an eminence
which was probably the highest
ground of the ancient city. It consists
of a capital, shaft, base, and
pedestal, which last reposes on substructions
of smaller blocks, once
belonging to older monuments, and
probably brought to Alexandria for
the purpose. On one is the name
of the first Psammetichus. Its substructions
were evidently once under
the level of the ground, and formed
part of a paved area, the stones of
which have been removed (probably
to serve as materials for more recent
buildings), leaving only those beneath
the column itself, to the great risk
of the monument. The total height of
the column is 98 ft. 9 in., the shaft is
73 ft., the circumference 29 ft. 8 in., and
the diameter at the top of the capital
16 ft. 6 in. The shaft of beautiful red
granite, highly polished, is elegant and
of good style, but the capital and pedestal
are of inferior workmanship and
unfinished, and it is probable that,
while the column itself was of an early
period, the capital was added at the
time when the pillar as it stands was

erected as a monument in honour of
the emperor Diocletian. The Greek
inscription which it bears shows that
it was intended to serve this purpose,
and at the same time explains how it
came to be called Pompey's Pillar;
for if the last word but two be read
aright, the column appears to have
been erected under the care of Pompeius,
prefect in 302. The inscription
runs thus:—

That the people of Alexandria should
erect a similar monument in honour of
Diocletian is not surprising, since he
had on more than one occasion a claim
to their gratitude, “having granted
them a public allowance of corn to the
extent of two millions of medimni,”
and “after he had taken the city by
siege when in revolt against him,
having checked the fury of his soldiers
in their promiscuous massacre of the
citizens.” It is more probable, however,
that this column silently records the
capture of Alexandria by the arms of
Diocletian in A.D. 296, when the rebellion
of Achilleus, who had usurped
for 5 years the imperial title and dignities,
had obliged him to lay siege to
the revolted city, and the use of the
epithet (for), “invincible,” applied
to the emperor, is in favour of this
opinion. This memorable siege, according
to the historian of the Decline,
lasted eight months; when, “wasted
by the sword and by fire, it implored
the clemency of the conqueror, but
experienced the full extent of his
severity. Many thousands of the
citizens perished in the promiscuous
slaughter, and there were few obnoxious
persons in Egypt who escaped
a sentence either of death or at least of
exile.”
On the summit is a circular depression
of considerable size, intended to
admit the base of a statue, as is usual
on monumental columns; and at
each of the four sides is a cramp, by
which it was secured: and, indeed, in
an old picture or plan of Alexandria,
where some of the ancient monuments
are represented, is the figure of a man
standing on the column. An Arab
tradition pretends that it was one of
four columns that once supported a
dome or other building; but little
faith is to be placed in the tales of
the modern inhabitants. Makrizi and
Abd el-Latif state that it stood in
a stoa surrounded by 400 columns,
where the library was that Omar
ordered to be burnt; which (if true)
would prove that it belonged to the
Serapeum.
In the hollow space to the S.W. of
this column is the site of an ancient
circus, or a stadium; from which the
small fort, thrown up by the French
on the adjoining height, received the
name of the “Circus Redoubt.” The
outline of its general form may still be
traced.
Not the least remarkable of the
remains of ancient Alexandria are
the Cisterns constructed beneath the
houses for storing the supply of water
with which the city was furnished by
the Canopic canal. These cisterns
were often of considerable size, having
their roofs supported by rows of columns,
vaulted in brick or stone.
Reservoirs of the same kind are also
found in the convents that stand on
the site of the old town; and several
wells connected with them may be
seen outside the walls, in going towards
the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal. They
show the direction taken by the channels
that conveyed the water to the
cisterns in the town. One set of them
runs parallel to the eastern exit of the
Mahmoodeeyeh, another is below the
hill of Pompey's Pillar, and another a
little less than half-way from this to
the former line. It was by means of
these cisterns that Ganymedes, during
the war between Julius Cæsar and the
Alexandrians, contrived to distress the
Romans, having turned the sea-water
into all those within the quarter they
occupied: an evil which Cæsar found
great difficulty in remedying, by the
imperfect substitute of wells.
A little beyond Pompey's Pillar are
some Christian tomb-chambers. One,
discovered in 1858, is in tolerable

preservation, and is reached by an
ancient flight of 24 steps. The paintings
and inscriptions, which are much
destroyed, are of the usual kind, and
offer nothing of interest. As a quarry
is now being worked close by, these
old buildings will probably soon disappear.
Coins of the time of Constantine
have been found in them.
For a description of the Catacombs,
the so-called “Baths of Cleopatra,”
Cæsar's Camp, and other ruins outside
the town, see below, Drives, Excursions,
pp. 139-141.
Little now remains of the splendid
edifices of Alexandria; and the few
columns, and traces of walls, which a
few years ago rose above the mounds
are no longer seen. The excavations
carried on amidst the mounds of the
old town, mostly for the purpose of laying
the foundations of modern houses,
occasionally bring to light a few relics,
as parts of statues, large columns, and
remains of masonry. Fragments of a
marble colonnade were found in 1878,
built into some Arab houses near the
bazaar.

d. POPULATION, ANCIENT AND MODERN.

According to the account of Alexandria,
given by Polybius, the inhabitants
were, in his time, of three kinds:
1, The Egyptians, or people of the
country, a keen and civilized race;
2, The mercenary troops, who were
numerous and turbulent, and who, having
arms in their hands, were more
ready to govern than to obey; and,
3, The Alexandrians, not very decidedly
tractable, for similar reasons,
but still better than the last; for,
having been mixed with and descended
from Greeks who had settled
there, they had not thrown off the
customs of that people. This part of
the population was, however, dwindling
away, more especially at the time when
Polybius visited Egypt during the
reign of Ptolemy Physcon; who, in
consequence of some seditious proceedings,
had attacked the people on
several occasions with his troops, and
had destroyed great numbers of them.
The successors of Physcon administered
the government as badly or even
worse; and it was not till it had
passed under the dominion of the
Romans that the condition of the city
was improved.
The Alexandrians continued, even
under the Romans, to manifest their
turbulent character: and Trebellius
Pollio tells us they were “of so impetuous
and headlong a disposition,
that on the most trifling occasions they
were enticed to actions of the most
dangerous tendency to the republic.
Frequently, on account of an omission
of civilities, the refusal of a place of
honour at a bath, the sequestration
of a ballad, or a cabbage, a slave's
shoe, or other objects of like importance,
they have shown such dangerous
symptoms of sedition as to require the
interference of an armed force. So
general, indeed, was this tumultuous
disposition that, when the slave of the
then Governor of Alexandria happened
to be beaten by a soldier, for telling
him that his shoes were better than the
soldier's, a multitude immediately collected
before the house of Æmilianus,
the commanding officer, armed with
every seditious weapon, and using
furious threats. He was wounded by
stones; and javelins and swords were
pointed at and thrown at him.”
The letter of Hadrian also gives a
curious and far from favourable account
of this people in his time; which,
though extending to all the Egyptians,
refers particularly to the Alexandrians,
as we perceive from the mention of
Serapis, the great deity of their city:
“Hadrian Augustus to the Consul Servian,
greeting:—I am convinced, my
friend Servian, that all the inhabitants
of Egypt, of whom you made honourable
mention to me, are trifling, wavering,
and changing at every change of public
rumour. The worshippers of Serapis
are Christians, and those who call
themselves followers of Christ pay their
devotions to Serapis; every chief of
a Jewish synagogue, every Samaritan,
each Christian priest, the mathematicians,
soothsayers, and physicians in
the gymnasia, all acknowledge Serapis,

The patriarch himself, whenever he
goes into Egypt, is obliged by some
to worship Serapis, by others Christ.
The people are, of all others, the most
inclined to sedition, vain and insolent.
Alexandria is opulent, wealthy, populus,
without an idle inhabitant. They
have one god (Serapis), whom the
Christians, Jews, and Gentiles worship.
I could wish that the city practised
a purer morality, and showed itself
worthy of its pre-eminence in size
and dignity over the whole of Egypt.
I have conceded to it every point; I
have restored its ancient privileges: and
have conferred on it so many more, that
when I was there I received the thanks
of the inhabitants, and immediately
on my departure they complimented
my son Verus. You have heard, too,
what they said about Antoninus: I wish
them no other curse than that they
may be fed with their own chickens,
which are hatched in a way I am
ashamed to relate. I have forwarded
to you three drinking - cups, which
have the property of changing their
colour.”
Just as in former times, the inhabitants
are in appearance and character
a mixed race; from the coast of Barbary,
and all parts of Egypt, with
Turks, Albanians, Syrians, Greeks,
Jews, Copts, and Armenians, and many
settlers from Europe.
The population of Alexandria, which
from half a million or more in the days
of the Ptolemies and the Cæsars had
diminished at the end of the last century
to 6000, has been very rapidly
recovering its numbers under Mohamed
Ali and his successors. It now
amounts to upwards of 230,000, of
whom about 49,000 are Europeans,
chiefly Greeks and Italians.

e. CLIMATE.

Several ancient writers, as Diodorus,
Strabo, Ammianus Marcellinus,
Quintus Curtius, and even Celsus,
speak of the climate of Alexandria
as healthy, with a temperature both
cool and salubrious. This Strabo
attributes to the admission of the Nile
water into the Lake Mareotis, and apparently
not without reason; but,
at the same time, the fevers prevalent
are owing probably to exhalations
from it.
The temperature of Alexandria is
kept tolerably cool even in summer,
the thermometer seldom ranging above
86 Fahr., by the N.W. winds from
the sea, but at the same time there is
a moisture and dampness in the air
produced by the same cause, especially
at night, which are very trying to
many constitutions; and many persons
prefer the hotter but drier climate of
Cairo. In the early months of the
year a great deal of rain generally falls
all along the Egyptian coast.

f. LOCAL GOVERNMENT.

The city of Alexandria forms an independent
government apart from the
province in which it is situated. It
has its own governor, who is assisted
in all matters relating to the internal
administration of the town by a municipal
council composed of half natives
and half Europeans.
The city is divided into quarters,
each presided over by a Sheykh, by
whom all small matters are settled.
The more serious criminal cases are
sent to the zaptieh, or chief police office,
for decision by the governor. There is
an excellent police, the principal officers
of which are English. The Franks, as
they are called, are the chief offenders
against law and order. Suits between
natives in which property is involved
are decided by the Native Tribunals.
The mixed tribunals established in
1876, and composed of Europeans and
natives, the former of whom are in the
majority, take cognizance of all civil
cases between foreigners and natives,
and foreigners of different nationalities;
but when the parties to the suit are of
the same foreign nationality, the case
is decided in their own consular court.
Among the natives every trade and
profession has its Sheykh, whose duty
it is to collect the taxes, and be answerable
for the good conduct of the
different members.

g. COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY.

The importance of the commerce of
Alexandria in ancient times has been
already spoken of. At the present
day its carrying trade is very considerable.
The principal articles of
export are—cotton (principally to England),
cotton seed (ditto), beans
(ditto), corn, sugar (ditto and France),
gums (principally to England), coffee
(ditto France), ivory, wool, linseed, and
mother-of-pearl.
Among the principal articles of import
are—manufactured goods (principally
from England), wood (principally
from Turkey, Austria and Italy), coal
(principally from England), oils (ditto
England, Italy, Turkey, and France),
wines and liqueurs (ditto France), raw
silk, salt provisions and vegetables,
fruits, and marbles and stones.
The principal native industries of
Alexandria are embroidery in gold and
silk, weaving of cotton stuffs for native
use, manufacture of pipe-stems, tobacco,
arms, &c., native saddlery, dyeing, &c.
The principal European industries are
the manufacture of Italian paste, starch,
soap, gas, candles, oil, &c.

h. PORTS, GATES, WALLS.

Mention has already been made of
the two Ports possessed by Alexandria,
the Eastern or Great Harbour, now
called the New Port, and the Western
or Eunostus Harbour, now called the
Old Port; and we have seen that they
were formerly separated by the Heptastadium,
and had a communication
by bridges which formed part of that
mole. The Eastern or New Port has
long been disused except by small
native vessels, being completely exposed
to the winds from the north, and
encumbered with rocks and shoals.
There are no vestiges of the two moles
which, running, the one from the
Pharos, the other from the Pharillon,
formerly sheltered this port. From the
advent of the Arab conquerors until
the beginning of the present century,
however, it had been appropriated to
the vessels of Christian states; no
Christian vessel being permitted to
enter the Western or Old Port, which
was reserved exclusively for Turkish
vessels, unless compelled to do so by
stress of weather; and then they were
forced to go round as soon as an opportunity
offered. It was in consequence
of this custom that all the
houses of the Europeans, constituting
the Frank quarter, were built on that
side of the city. The privilege of
using the old harbour and that of
riding on horseback were obtained by
the English, for all Europeans, on
evacuating Alexandria in 1803.
The Western Harbour, Eunostus has
been described in the account of the
landing at Alexandria, p. 113.
The four principal Gates of Alexandria
were the Canopic on the east,
the Necropolis Gate on the west, and
those of the Sun and Moon at the two
ends of the street that ran from the
sea to the lake. As you looked up the
latter street, the ships in the Great
Harbour were seen beyond the Gate
of the Moon on one side, and those in
the Mareotic port on the other; the
two streets intersecting each other at
right angles. The site of the Canopic
Gate is probably to be found some 1200
yards to the east of the modern Rosetta
Gate. No portion of the ancient circuit
now remains, and even the old
Arab wall has been entirely removed to
make way for the increasing size of
Alexandria.
The present Walls, enclosing a portion
of the mounds of the old city,
were built in 1811, by Mohamed Ali,
but they were probably based on older
foundations. They are well built and
of great thickness, but have been
destroyed in parts to make way for
improvements. The principal gate was
the Rosetta Gate, which was strongly
fortified with a double ditch and five
bastions. The Rosetta Gate has lately
been removed to allow for the daily increasing
traffic along the Ramleh road.
The sea defences of Alexandria were
greatly enlarged by the late Khedive
Ismail Pasha, who armed them with
heavy modern rifled artillery. They
have acquired a great additional interest

since they were bombarded by the
English in 1882.
The forts may be considered as divided
into three sections.
1st. The defences of Pharos and Ras-et-Teen.
2nd. The defences of the Large
Harbour.
3rd. The defences of the Eastern or
Small Harbour.
1st. The defences of the Island of
Pharos consist of—
Fort Pharos or Kait Bey.
Fort Adda.
Fort Ras-et-Teen and the Lines of
Ras-et-Teen.
2nd. The defences of the Large
Harbour consist of—
A line of works reaching from Alexandria
to Mex.
The Fort and Lines of Mex.
Fort Marsa el-Kanat.
Fort Marabout.
Fort Ajemi.
3rd. The defences of the Eastern
Harbour—
Fort Silsileh.
Quarantine Battery.
There were 37 rifled guns and 213
smooth-bore guns mounted at the time
of the bombardment.

i. STREETS, PUBLIC PLACES, AND BUILDINGS.

Street nomenclature at Alexandria
is of a very motley character, Arabic,
French, English, Italian, and other
names, having been given apparently
according to the caprice of individuals.
Lately, the Government has given
names to the principal places and
streets, and in some instances these
names have been written up, but it is
very common to find people still calling
them by the old name, e.g., the large
square which used to be called the
Place des Consuls, is now properly
named the Place Mohamed Ali, but
English people generally call it the
Great Square. This square is the
European centre of Alexandria. At
the N.E. corner is the English church.
The Court of the International Tribunals
is a large building on the
W. side. The square suffered very
much in 1882 and was almost completely
destroyed, but is now being
rebuilt. When it is completed, it
will be finer than before the fire.
The other principal open space is the
Square Ibrahim, or, as it is usually
called, the Place de l'Eglise, from the
Roman Catholic church which occupies
the S.E. side of it. On the same side
is Abbat's Hotel.
Among the principal streets of Alexandria
are the Rue Chérif Pasha, a
handsome and well-built street leading
from the Place Méhémet Ali to the
railway station. In it are the houses of
many of the principal merchants; and
in the afternoon it presents a gay and
animated appearance, there being a
constant stream of carriages to and
from the drive by the canal. Parallel
with this street are the Rue Méhémet
Tewfik
and the Rue de la Mosquée
d'Atarine
, both leading to the Boulevard
Ismail.
The Rue de la Mosquée
d'Atarine continues from the other side
of the Square Ibrahim to the Rue
Anastasi. From the S. side of the
Place Méhémet Ali the Rue Ibrahim extends to the bridge over the canal;
and the Rue Anastasi leads to the open
space in which is Fort Napoleon. Both
these streets pass through some of the
lowest parts of the town. The Rue
Ras-et-Teen
is a long, winding street,
leading from the W. end of the Place
Méhémet Ali to the Palace of Ras-et-Teen:
from it branch off the streets
leading to the harbour. From the N.
side of the Place Méhémet Ali a number
of short streets lead down to the
sea. Most of the English business
houses are in this part; and one of the
streets was called Gracechurch Street,
but has now received officially the
name of the Rue de l'Eglise Anglaise,
from the English church whose west end
faces it. Crossing these streets is the
Boulevard Ramleh , formerly called the
Rue de l'Obélisque, following the bend
of the Great Harbour up to the Ramleh
railway station. The English Consulate
and Telegraph offices are in this
street. The road leading to the
Rosetta Gate is called the Boulevard
Rosetta.
At the town end of it are
some handsome houses, and the Zizinia

theatre. It has been thought better to
give the names of the streets here and
in the map in French, as, wherever
they are written up, it is usually in
that language, and if known at all
they are more likely to be so under
their French title than under any
other.

j. CANALS.

There are but slight vestiges of the
old canals of Alexandria. The banks
and channel of a large canal, running
from the lake to the old harbour, may
be seen about half-way between the
modern city and Marábut point, about
4 miles to the S.W. of the modern
town. It is 6600 feet long; the high
mounds on either side are about 250
feet apart; and the breadth of the
canal itself may have been about
80 feet. There is also the bed of a
small channel about half-way from the
town and the Catacombs, but probably
of late time; and the canal that leads
from the Mahmoodeeyeh to the Rosetta
Gate, and enters the new port near
the lazzaretto, is a modern work, cut
through the walls and basements of
ancient buildings. One old canal,
which ran into the sea near the basin,
or Kibôtos, may have been that passing
under the present walls, within the
western gate; but the Canopic canal
was on the east of the town.
The modern Mahmoodeeyeh Canal was begun by Mohamed Ali in 1819,
and opened on Jan. 20, 1820. It
received its name in honour of the
Sultan Mahmood II. The cost is said
to have been 300,000l.; and 250,000
men were employed about one year in
digging it, of whom 20,000 perished
by accident, hunger, and plague. It
commences at the village of Atfeh, on
the Rosetta branch of the Nile, and
has a total length of 50 miles, with an
average width of about 100 feet. A
part of its course is identical with that
of the ancient Canopic branch of the
Nile, and the old canal of Fooah,
which was used in the time of the
Venetians for carrying goods to Alexandria,
and existed, though nearly dry,
in Savary's time, A.D. 1777. The right
bank of the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal is
bordered for some distance with the
houses and gardens of the wealthy
inhabitants of Alexandria, and is the
fashionable afternoon promenade.

k. MOSQUES, CHURCHES, CONVENTS.

There are no Mosques at Alexandria
which in themselves contain anything
worth seeing, but two are interesting
as marking ancient sites. One of them
is called “of 1001 columns,” according
in number with the fables of the 1001
nights. It is on the west side, near the
Gate of Necropolis, now the Gabari
Gate, and has lately been converted
into a Quarantine. Pococke observed
in it four rows of columns from S. to
W., and one row on the other side;
and here, he says, it is supposed that
the church of St. Mark once stood;
where the patriarch formerly lived;
and where the Evangelist is reported
to have been put to death. This
church was destroyed by the Moslems
in the reign of Melek el-Kamel, the
son of Melek Adel, in 1219, whilst the
Crusaders were besieging Damietta, for
fear that they might surprise Alexandria
and make a fortress of its solid
walls; and no offers on the part of the
Christians could induce them to spare
this venerated building. The other
great mosque is called “of St. Athanasius,”
doubtless, as Pococke observes,
from having succeeded to a church of
that name. It is from this that the
sarcophagus, called the “tomb of Alexander,”
was taken, which is now in the
British Museum.
The Churches and Convents are
almost entirely devoid of interest.
The English Church presents no feature
worthy of remark (see p. 117).
The Coptic Convent is dedicated to
St. Mark, whose body the Copts pretend
to possess, though it is well known
that it was carried off clandestinely by
the Venetians, as stated by Leo Africanus,
as well as by Daru, and other
historians. The old mosaics of St.
Mark's at Venice also record this fact,
and the inscription over the scene there

represented does not hesitate to admit
that the body was “stolen” by the two
Venetian captains “Rusticus and Tribunus”
(called in the Venetian histories
Rustico of Torcello and Buono
of Malamacco), assisted by the monk
Staurgius and the priest Theodorus,
who had charge of the sanctuary of
St. Mark in Alexandria. This happened
during the dogeship of Giustiniano
Partecipazo, about 828 A.D.;
and the mosaic was put up in the new
church at Venice in the 11th century.
(See Sir G. Wilkinson's account of this
mosaic, ‘Jour. Archæol. Assoc.,' vol. vii.
p. 258.)
The Greek Church is a heavy, ugly
building of modern date. The form is
the usual one of a Greek cross, with a
dome in the centre. The Greeks pride
themselves on some relics, said to be of
St. Catherine, who suffered martyrdom
at Alexandria. For their convent of
St. Saba they only claim an age of
500 years; though some of the monks
pretend that it contained the real
church of St. Mark.
The Latin Church is another modern
building with no pretensions to architectural
beauty; and the same may be
said of all the other ecclesiastical
edifices belonging to the different
religious persuasions.

l. HOSPITALS, CHARITIES, SOCIETIES.

The Hospital of the Deaconesses of
Kaiserswerth
, outside the Moharram
Bey Gate, is well worth a visit. It is
attended by European doctors, and the
nursing is done by the deaconesses.
There are three classes of patients;
the first-class paying 5s. a day, the
second 3s., and the third treated
gratis. There are no restrictions as
to religion, and the patient may be
visited by a clergyman of his own
persuasion. This hospital, one of the
many established in different parts
of the world by the Kaiserwerth
Deaconesses, relies entirely on voluntary
contributions, and is well worthy
of support.
The European Hospital in the
Boulevard Rosetta is managed by a
committee composed of members of
the European community. Patients
are admitted by a ticket from the
consulate of the nation to which they
belong. The charges are from 8 to 2
francs per day. Sisters of Charity of
the Order of St. Vincent de Paul are
the nurses, and religious ministrations
are conducted by the Franciscans of
the Holy Land.
There are also the Government Civil
and Military Hospital
, and the Greek
Hospital
, attached to the Orthodox
Greek Church.
There are several charitable Societies
established at Alexandria, most of them
in connection with the different European
communities. They are chiefly
for the purpose of providing help in
various ways to poor fellow-citizens,
such as giving them money for returning
home, paying their expenses in
hospital, &c. The Sisters of Charity
have an establishment for foundlings,
and also give assistance in various ways
to the poor of all nations. There is a
Mont de Piété at Alexandria, to which
the natives resort in the proportion of
about 5 per cent.

m. SCHOOLS.

The Government schools consist of
a Primary, and a Secondary school.
The system of instruction in the Government
schools generally will be found
described elsewhere. Les Frères de
l'Ecole Chrétienne have a large establishment
well worth a visit, near the
Roman Catholic Church; there are
nearly 600 pupils, of whom more
than 300 receive gratuitous instruction:
natives and Europeans of all
creeds are alike taken. The Greek
Church has large schools both for boys
and girls, and there is a Protestant
school in connexion with the Scotch
Church, which has more than 100 boys
and girls, of whom many receive instruction
gratuitously. The American
United Presbyterian Church has a
school attached to the Mission: there
are about 300 boys and girls, Christians,
Jews, and Muslims, The Deutsche

Schule of the Crischona Mission is
well attended. There is also a Freemason's
School.

n. THEATRES, AMUSEMENTS, ETC.

The Zizinia Theatre, in the Rosetta
Gate Road, is a large, handsome building:
there is generally Italian Opera
or French Play going on there in
the winter and spring. There are also
the Politeama Egiziana and Rossini
Theatres; and there are several
cafés chantants in different parts of
the town, but most of them of a very
low order.
Excellent Shooting may be had in
the neighbourhood of Alexandria; but
it is necessary to make the acquaintance
of some resident sportsman in order to
know where to go and what to do.

o. DRIVES, EXCURSIONS.

South.—The regular afternoon promenade
is out by the Rosetta Gate, and
along the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal. The
drive presents no object of interest except
the villas and gardens by the side
of the canal, which, however, are well
worth seeing for the beauty and luxuriance
of the shrubs and flowers, and
there are pretty views to be obtained
from the high ground at the farthest
end of the canal. The gardens belonging
to the Khedive and the Villa
Antoniadis
are open to the public, and
a band plays on Sundays and Fridays.
West.—On the other side of the town
a visit may be paid to Gabari. The
road lies along the Rue Ibrahim and
across the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal. A
gateway on the left leads up a desolate-looking
avenue to the race - course.
The terrace in front of the palace
built by Said Pasha serves as the
grand stand. When the gardens were
kept up, Gabari was much resorted to,
but it is quite deserted now. There is
a good view over Lake Mareotis.
Returning to the main road, the
drive may be continued to Mex, and a
visit paid on the way to the so-called
Baths of Cleopatra and the Catacombs.
The Baths of Cleopatra are merely
excavations, perhaps tombs, at the
water's edge, below the level of the
sea, which from their appearance and
situation have been called baths. The
Catacombs, which are a little farther
on, attest the greatness of Alexandria
more than any of its other remains.
The entrance to them is close to a
spot once covered with the habitations
and gardens of the town, or suburb of
the city, which from the neighbouring
tombs was called the Necropolis. The
extent of these Catacombs is remarkable;
but the principal inducement to
visit them is the elegance and symmetry
of the architecture in one of the
chambers, having a Doric entablature
and mouldings, in good Greek taste,
which is not to be met with in any
other part of Egypt. Tapers, and, if
the traveller intends to penetrate far
into them, a rope, are necessary; and,
if he wishes to take measurements of
the mouldings, a ladder.
Passing the unfinished Palace of
Said Pasha
, we reach the Quarries of
Mex
on the sea-shore, about five miles
from Alexandria. Tourists who are
interested in military matters should
visit the forts in order to see the effects
produced by shell fire. The forts have
been little touched since the day of the
bombardment, but some of the guns
have been removed.
North.—A not uninteresting excursion
may be made to the Palace of
Ras-et-Teen, and the site of the ancient
Pharos. The way lies from the Place
Méhémet Ali along the Rue Ras-et-Teen,
and through a native quarter
near the East Harbour; it then traverses
a sort of quay along a low fortification
that lines the western side of
that harbour. At the end of this quay
is the Pharos, already described. Returning,
and leaving on the right an
advanced fort, called Fort Ada, the
axe of the old Isle of Pharos is traversed
to the opposite peninsula. The
Palace of Ras-et-Teen occupies the
western extremity of the peninsula of
that name. It was built by Mohamed
Ali. An order is required for visiting
it. There is nothing very remarkable

except the view from the balcony, which
is extensive and interesting. There
is a handsome staircase of Carrara
marble, and a large audience hall.
The hareem, which cannot be visited,
is a separate building facing the sea.
The ancient Point Eunostus, now Ras-et-Teen
Point
, on which stands the
modern light-house, is a mile farther
on. The forts should also be visited.
To the right, after leaving the palace
on the return home, is the Arsenal,
chiefly interesting as a record of Mohamed
Ali's ambition, and of the
great efforts he made to establish his
power in Egypt, and defy the authority
of the Porte. It is now closed, as
Egypt has no longer a fleet. Part of
it is used by the Khedivial Postal
Steamers. The driver may be told to
return either by the Rue Ras-et-Teen,
which is here bordered by some rather
good houses in the Arab style, or by
the quays and streets leading from the
Arsenal.
East.—A very pleasant afternoon excursion
may be made to Ramleh either
by rail or road.
By Rail.—There are two railway
lines (a) from the Ramleh Railway
Station
(trains every hour, returning
from Ramleh at the half-hour); (b)
from the Moharrem Bey Station (trains
about every hour).
(a) There are seven stations on
this line:—1. Chat Bey, near which
are the Christian and Jewish cemeteries,
which probably occupy the
ancient site of the Hippodrome. 2.
Mustapha Pasha, near which, on the
left, may be seen the little domed building
in which Sir Ralph Abercromby
died. 1801, “in the arms of victory;”
the large building on the height to the
left occupies the site, now almost obliterated,
of the camp of Nicopolis (see
below). It is a palace built in 1869,
but rarely inhabited, by the Khedive,
and is remarkable for the gardens
and costly decorations. 3. Bulkelsy,
close to which is the English suburb
of Alexandria, a row of houses on the
height above the sea, chiefly inhabited
by English officials. 4. Fleming , near
which is the Hôtel Beau Séjour, which
bears a good character for comfort.
5. Bacos. 6. Seffer. And 7. Schutz,
the terminus, near which is the new
Hôtel Miramar, which can be recommended,
and is convenient for families
and invalids.
(b) See Route 1.
By Road.—The road for driving lies
out of the Rosetta Gate. Immediately
on the left after issuing from the
Rosetta Gate are the different Christian
Cemeteries
, occupying probably the site
of the old Hippodrome. The road runs
for half a mile over the mounds of the
ancient city, when it crosses the old
wall, on which the French lines were
raised, and descends into a plain, first
cultivated by order of Ibrahim Pasha.
A little to the right, after crossing a
reservoir by a causeway, the road turns
off to the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal.
About 3/4 of a mile from the old wall
granite blocks and remains of columns
mark the site of some important building.
A little beyond this, and nearer
the sea, were some old catacombs, in
which were some devices painted on
the stuccoed walls and ceilings. Here
too was a marble sarcophagus with
the head of Medusa, and other ornamental
sculpture. In some of the
Catacombs inscriptions have been
found of Christian times, probably
about the 4th century: and it is
evident that they were used as places
of sepulture for Christians as well as
Pagans.
About 2 miles beyond the French
lines, or 2 1/2 from the Rosetta Gate, is
a Roman Station, called Cæsar's, or
the Roman Camp. It marks the site
of Nicopolis, or Juliopolis, where
Augustus defeated the partisans of
Antony; and is the spot where, 1832
years after, the English and French
armies engaged. The Camp, now
almost obliterated by the immense
palace of the Khedive, resembled the
Myos Hormos, and the fortified stations
or hydreumas in the desert: but was
stronger, larger, and better built. It
was nearly square, measuring 291 paces,
by 266 within, the walls being from
5 to 5 1/2 paces thick. It had four

entrances, one in the centre of each
face, 15 paces wide, defended by round
or semicircular towers, 18 paces in
diameter, or 12 within. On each face
were 6 towers, distant from each other
33 paces; those of the doorway excepted,
which are only 15 paces apart.
Those at the 4 corners were larger than
the others, having a diameter of 22
paces. Its N.W. face stood very near
the sea in the present gardens of the
palace, where a mosaic pavement was
recently visible; and a short way from
the S.W. gate are the remains of the
aqueduct that supplied it with water;
probably part of the one seen to the
north of the Mahmoodeeyeh, about
8 miles from Alexandria. It has been
entirely excavated; and the extensive
system for supplying it with
water, the wells, reservoirs, and baths,
have been laid open. The water was
raised from the principal well by a
water-wheel with pots (as at the
present day). It is now brackish.
The wells are 33 feet deep. The
Prætorium, or commandant's house,
had a large mosaic, now almost destroyed,
with various ornamental devices,
and a half figure of Bacchus,
holding in one hand a bunch of grapes,
in the other a crook, the attribute of
Osiris. Near the sea, outside the N.W.
corner of the station, is another bath,
and a long channel cased with stone,
which seems to have supplied the bath
with fresh water. The walls of the
station were of stone, with the courses
of flat bricks, or tiles, at intervals,
usual in Roman buildings; and the
whole was constructed on a scale worthy
of the grandeur of the early part of the
Empire. In one place was an inscription
put up to M. Aurelius by the Tribunes
of the 2nd Legion, called “Trajana
fortis,” in the same 8th year of which
so many of his coins remain. There
was also a block of marble which had
probably served as the pedestal to a
statue, with an inscription recording
that it had been set up to Septimius
Severns, in the 11th year of his reign,
by the decurions and privates whose
names are given in two columns below
the dedication. Another stone bore a
few hieroglyphics containing the name
of an individual called Rameses, probably
brought from some other place.
Many, however, of these interesting
remains have now completely disappeared.
The first battle on this spot was
followed by the deaths of Antony and
Cleopatra. The second one is famous
in the annals of English history. In
order to put an end to French supremacy
in Egypt, an expedition was
sent out by the British Government
in 1801, part of the troops composing
which, under Sir David Baird, proceeded
down the Red Sea with the
intention of landing at Kosseir and
marching across the desert into Egypt,
while the remainder, under Sir Ralph
Abercromby, disembarked at Abookeer
Bay, the scene of Nelson's famous victory
three years before. Advancing
on Alexandria, the English attacked
the French under General Menou, on
the 13th of March. Sir A. Alison says:
“The ground occupied by the two
armies was singularly calculated to
awaken the most interesting recollections.
England and France were here
to contend for the empire of the East
in the cradle of ancient civilisation,
on the spot where Pompey was slain
to propitiate the victorious arms of
Cæsar, and under the walls of the city
which is destined to perpetuate, to
the latest generations, the prophetic
wisdom of Alexander.” On the 21st
the decisive engagement took place,
which ended in the defeat of the
French, though the victory was dearly
purchased by the death of Abercromby.
Returning to the carriage, the drive
may be continued to Ramleh. This
has now become the fashionable suburb
of Alexandria, and contains many excellent
well-built houses. A few days
can be spent pleasantly in the Hôtel
Beau Séjour, or Hôtel Miramar.

ROUTE 1.
ALEXANDRIA TO ROSETTA, BY RAIL,
ABOUT 40 MILES.

Two trains daily to Rosetta and
Abookeer. Station the same as for
Cairo, at the Moharrem Bey Gate.
The line follows almost exactly
that of the old road to Rosetta, which
as far as Ramleh has been already
described. At Sidi Gaber Stat., the
Cairo line turns off to the right.
Ramleh Stat., 1/2 m. from the town.
El Mohammedeeyeh Stat.
Es Siyoof Stat., a considerable village.
El Mandarah Stat., on the neck of
land which separates the lake of Abookeer
from the Mediterranean.
Abookeer Stat., a small village
famous for the victory of the English
fleet under Nelson, recorded in our
annals as the “Battle of the Nile.”
The principal details of this famous
battle are too well known to need
more than a brief recapitulation here.
On the 1st of August, 1798, Nelson
discovered the French fleet, under
Admiral Bruéys, at anchor in the
form of a curve round the head of
Abookeer Bay. The number of men-of-war
on both sides was equal, but
the French had some smaller vessels
besides, and a decided superiority in
men and guns. Although it was
already late in the day, Nelson determined
to attack at once. The
battle lasted until daybreak the next
morning, and ended in the total defeat
of the French, with the loss of
14 vessels out of 17. The decisive
moment of the action was the blowing
up of the French Admiral's ship
L'Orient. This event is best known
perhaps in connection with the touching
incident of the captain of the
Orient, Casabianca, and his son, so
beautifully commemorated by Mrs.
Hemans, in the touching lines commencing—
“The boy stood on the burning deck,
Whence all but he had fled,” &c.
It was at this point that Sir Ralph
Abercromby landed on the 8th March,
1801, in command of the English
army which finally drove the French
out of Egypt.
The English expedition in 1882
anchored in Abookeer Bay on their way
from Alexandria to the ,
Lord Wolseley being anxious to make
the Egyptians think that he proposed
to land at this point.
A little to the E. of Abookeer are
some ruins which perhaps mark the
site of Canopus , which, according to
Strabo, was 120 stadia (between 13
and 14 English miles) from Alexandria,
by land. It stood on the west of
the Canopic mouth, between which
and that town was the village of Heracleum,
famed for its temple of Hercules.
The Greeks and Romans
imagined it to have been called after
Canopus, the pilot of Menelaus, who
was buried there; but its Egyptian
name Kahi-noub, or the “golden soil,”
and its high antiquity, suffice to show
the folly of this assertion; which is
one of many instances of their mode of
changing a foreign name, in order to
connect it with, and explain it by,
their own history. Canopus had a
temple of Serapis, who was the deity
worshipped there with the greatest
respect. Many other temples also
stood at Canopus, as well as numerous
spacious inns for the reception of strangers,
who went to enjoy its wholesome
air, and, above all, the dissipation that
recommended it to the people of Alexandria;
famous, or rather infamous, as
it was, in the time of the Greeks and
Romans, for the most wanton amusements.
Thither they repaired in
crowds by the canal for that object.
Day and night the water was covered
with boats carrying men and women,
who danced and sang with the most
unrestrained licence. Arrived at Canopus,
they repaired to booths erected on
the banks, for the express purpose of
indulging in scenes of dissipation. The
immorality of the place was notorious,
and it is this which led Seneca to say,
“No one in thinking of a retreat would
select Canopus, although Canopus
might not prevent a man being virtuous.”

The degraded state of public
morals in that town appears to have
been confined to the period after the
foundation of Alexandria; and the
Canopus we read of was a Greek
town.
The jars called Canobic or Canopic,
into which were put such interior
parts of the human body as could not
be embalmed, and which had on the
lids the heads of the four genii of the
dead, were so called from this town.
The famous trilingual stone, discovered
at Sân (the ancient Tanis),
and thence called by French savants
“La Pierre de Sân,” is known to
English Egyptologists as the “Decree
of Canopus,” from its containing, in
Greek, hieroglyphic, and demotic characters
the text of a decree promulated
by Ptolemy Euergetes in the
year B.C. 237, at Canopus. At that
time Canopus was the religious capital
of the country. The stone is in the
Museum of Egyptian Antiquities
at Boolak (Cairo). There is a
plaster cast in the British Museum,
and also in the Aberdeen University
Museum.
There are some modern forts on the
shore of the Bay of Abookeer, and a
lighthouse on the promontory. In
digging the ditches of these forts some
interesting antiquities were discovered,
which are now in the museum at
Boolak.
El Maadeeyeh Stat., the “Ford,” or
“Ferry,” by which Lake Edko communicates
with the sea, and which is
supposed to be the old Canopic branch.
Near it Pococke places Heracleum,
whence the name Heracleotic applied
to that mouth of the river, which was
also called Naucratic, or Ceramic. The
Canopic was the most westerly, as the
Pelusiac was the most easterly, of the
mouths of the Nile. Some ruins still
mark the site of the city of Hercules,
to whose temple the slaves of Paris
fled, when he was forced by contrary
winds to take refuge in the Canopic
branch of the Nile. The temple still
existed in the time of Herodotus, and
even of Strabo.
Edko Stat., a village on a sandhill
near the lake.
Crossing a dreary waste of sand, the
line reaches
Rosetta (in Coptic, T-Rashit; in
Arabic, Rasheed). Pop. 16,600. Has
a governor independent of the Mudir
of the Province. The town is situated
on the W. bank of the Nile, near its
mouth. This branch of the river was
formerly the Bolbitine, and a hill called
Aboo Mandoor, about 1 1/2 mile to the S
of the modern town, is supposed to
mark the site of the ancient town of
Bolbitinum. Rosetta was founded by
one of the khalifs about A.D. 870. For
a long time it was one of the most
important commercial towns of the
country, and at the beginning of the
present century it still had a population
of about 25,000. This has now
diminished to 16,600, and a great proportion
of the houses are deserted and
in ruins. As a port Rosetta has been
completely eclipsed by Alexandria, and
very little trade is now carried on. Its
former flourishing condition is shown
by the style of building, which is
very superior to that of other Egyptian
towns. The columns at the doors, the
neatness of the wooden windows, and
the general appearance of their walls,
are particularly striking. It has several
mosques, khans, and bazaars, and is
surrounded by a wall with loopholes
which might serve to protect it against
a band of Arabs, but would offer little
resistance to artillery. The northern
gate has two small towers at its side,
of a form by no means common in
Egypt; and between this and the plain
are the most extensive gardens. The
situation of Rosetta, the beauty and
extent of its gardens, and the supposed
salubrity of its air, made it formerly a
favourite summer resort of Cairenes
and Alexandrians: and though not
frequented now in the same way, it
still retains the same natural advantages,
and may be regarded as one of
the prettiest and most agreeable towns
in Egypt. Some large forts have been
built to protect the mouth of the Nile,
and there is a very fine lighthouse at
the mouth of the river.
Rosetta is but little known in history.
In 1807 it was the scene of the
unsuccessful attempt of the English

to restore the authority of the Memlooks,
which ended in the disastrous
retreat of the English army. It is
equally barren of antiquities. Here
and there a few hieroglyphs may be
seen in single stones built into mosques
and private houses; and fragments
of granite and basalt are lying about.
But it has acquired a special archæological
celebrity from the celebrated
trilingual stone—known as the “ Rosetta
Stone”
—found by the French
in 1799, while digging the foundations
of a fort, a short distance lower
down the river. This tablet contains
a decree made by the priests of Egypt
in honour of Ptolemy Epiphanes in
the year B.C. 196. It is written in the
Greek, hieroglyphic, and demotic or
enchorial characters; and it was from
a comparison of the Greek letters and
the hieroglyphs on this stone that Dr.
Young and Champollion were enabled
first to decipher the old Egyptian
sacred writing. Unfortunately the
stone was but a fragment, and the
search for the upper part of it has
hitherto been unsuccessful. The same
decree is found at Philæ, without the
Greek text, on a granite rock in the
Great Temple.

ROUTE 2.
ROSETTA TO CAIRO.

By the Rosetta branch of the Nile
to Atfeh, at the mouth of the Mahmoodeeyeh
Canal (5-7 hrs.; boat
about 1l.): thence by road to Damanhoor
(2 1/2-3 hrs.; donkey about 3s.);
from Damanhoor to Cairo by rail. If
Rosetta is left very early in the morning,
and the wind is favourable, Damanhoor
may be reached in time for the
afternoon train to Cairo; or the whole
of the journey can be made by the
Nile (3-4 days, according to the wind).
There is nothing of interest between
Rosetta and Atfeh.
(W.) Aboo Mandoor, 1 1/2 m. (see
above), is first passed. Then, after
some unimportant villages, the town
of
(E.) Berembal, 8 m. Next may be
noted
E.) Metoobis, 4 m., where are the
mounds of the ancient town of Metubis.
(W.) Daroot, 5 1/2 m., and
(E.) Shindyoon, immediately opposite;
both with ruins of old towns.
(W.) Atfeh, 4 m. (p. 146). Here is
the mouth of the Mahmoodeeyeh
Canal, called Fom el-Mahmoodeeyeh (p. 146).
For the remainder of the journey by
the Nile, see Route 5.
Hiring a donkey at Atfeh, we proceed
for some way along the bank of
the canal, and then across fields to
Damanhoor, on the main Alexandria
and Cairo Railway (p. 151).
For the remainder of the journey by
rail., see Rte. 6.

ROUTE 3.
ALEXANDRIA TO PORT SAID AND SUEZ,
BY WATER.

By steamer, Messageries, Austrian
Lloyd, Russian, or Egyptian, in 15
hours to Port Said.
From Port Said the can
be traversed either as far as Ismailia
and thence to Cairo by rail, or to Suez
and thence to Cairo by rail. (See Rte. 7.)

ROUTE 4.
ALEXANDRIA TO SUEZ, BY RAIL.

One through train daily from the
Moharrem Bey Station, at 8 A.M., in
11 hours. For the first part of the

route, see Rte. 6, as far as Benha ,
reached at 12.45.
Leaving Benha at 1 P.M. and passing
through a fertile and richly cultivated
country, which however offers nothing
worthy of interest, Zagazig (p. 283), a
distance of 20 miles, is reached at 1.55.
Here the train stops 1/2 hr., and there is
a good refreshment room. For the
remainder of the route, see Rte. 7.
Suez is reached at 6.45 P.M.

ROUTE 5.
ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO, BY THE MAHMOODEEYEH
CANAL AND THE NILE,
ABOUT 180 MILES.

Few now go by water from Alexandria
to Cairo; but it is well to mention
the principal objects in that part of
the country, as a traveller may wish to
visit them on some other occasion.
The route is not recommended for the
ordinary tourist, as the native boats
are not comfortable. The main railway
line to Cairo can be joined at Kafr
ez-Zyat (p. 152), and the Upper Egypt
line at any of the stations on the 1.
bank of the river after passing Nigéeleh.
The Mahmoodeeyeh Canal, in the
neighbourhood of Alexandria, has
already been described. Its general
appearance after the gardens and
houses are passed is far from interesting.
The earth thrown up from the
canal forms an elevated ridge, rising
far above the adjacent lands: and the
only objects that interrupt the uniform
level are the mounds of ancient towns,
whose solitary and deserted aspect
adds not a little to the gloominess of
the scene.
Es Sid, or the Maison Carrée, 5 m.,
is where the English, while besieging
the French in Alexandria, cut a passage
in order to admit the sea-water
into the Lake Mareotis; from its
having been closed again, the name
Sid, signifying “a dam,” or “stoppage,”
has been applied to it.
Kafr dowar, 12 m. Here the canal
passes through the fortifications thrown
up by Araby in 1882. 5 miles to the
north-west are some mounds called
Nishoo, supposed to be the remains of
Schedia; they contain confused remains
of stone and brick, among which are
two fragments of stone (apparently
parts of the same block), bearing the
names of Rameses II., and some capitals
and fragments of late time. The
most remarkable object is a series of
massive walls in an isolated mound,
300 paces to the south-eastward of
these fragments, which were evidently
cisterns, like those in Italy and at
Carthage. They are of Roman time,
built of stone, with horizontal courses
of the usual flat bricks or tiles at
intervals, and buttresses projecting
here and there, to give them greater
strength; the whole originally covered
with a casing of stucco. The walls,
which are now 15 ft. high, were about
16 in number, of which 12 may be still
distinctly seen, and the spaces between
them were about 215 feet long and 27
broad, being considerably larger than
the second cisterns of Carthage, and
only inferior in number and in length
(but not in breadth) to the great ones
there, which are 110 paces long by 10,
and consist of 16 spaces or cisterns.
The extremity of each gallery or cistern
is rounded off, and we may suppose
that they had also the usual arched
roofs. A canal or branch of the river
appears to have run through the level
space, about 750 ft. broad, between
them and the town. The distance of
Nishoo from Alexandria agrees exactly
with that given by Strabo from Schedia
to that city, which he calculates at 4
schœnes, or nearly 14 English miles.
Schedia was so called by the Greeks
from the barrier, or bridge of boats,
that closed the river at this spot, where
duties were levied on all merchandise
that passed; and the name of Nishoo,
applied to the neighbouring mounds
and the modern village, may be
derived from the Egyptian nishoi,
signifying “the boats.” The mounds
of Nishoo are in four almost parallel

lines, the two outer ones about 250,
the centre two about 756 ft. apart.
They contain no traces of building;
they appear to be entirely of earth,
though of very great height, and were
probably the result of excavations made
iti deepening the river, or the neighbouring
canal, which, from the low
space separating the two centre mounds,
appears to have passed between them.
Schedia was a bishop's see in the time
of Athanasius, as were Menelaïs and
Andropolis.
Karioon, 4 m., the site probably of
Chereu, in Coptic Chereus; the towns
of Anthylla and Archandra stood also
in the plain between the canal and
Lake Edko. The canal here increases
in breadth.
Abu Hommos, 7 m., a village of 600
inhabitants. The canal now passes
close to the south end of Lake Edku.
This lake is shallow throughout, and a
large extent dries up for a part of the
year.
Zowyet el-Ghazál, 8 m. Here the
canal turns north wards to Atfeh, quitting
the bed of an old canal, which
Joined the Nile farther to the S., just
below Rahmaneeyeh.
Atfeh, 10 m., also called Fom elMahmoodeeyeh,
or mouth of the canal,
the banks of which are here lined with
solid brick-work. There are lock-gates
and 4 machines, each of 100 horsepower,
to give the water a flow towards
Alexandria. Atfeh stands on the Rosetta
branch of the Nile. It is a
miserable village, abounding in dust
and dogs; but the first view of the
Nile is striking, and a relief after the
canal. In the neighbourhood of Atfeh
there is some excellent Snipe-shooting,
which is much patronised by the
sportsmen of Alexandria during the
winter. The excursion for this purpose
may be made either by hiring a boat
at Alexandria and going along the
canal, or by rail to Kafr ez-Zyat (see
Rte. 6), and thence taking a boat down
the river. The former method is the
pleasantest.
(E.) Fooah is nearly opposite Atfeh,
and is a place of some importance,
having about 10,000 inhabitants. It
occupies the site of the ancient Metelis,
in Coptic Meleg, or Meledg, but contains
no remains beyond a few granite
blocks, now used as the thresholds of
doors, with hieroglyphic inscriptions,
containing the names of Apries and
other kings of the 26th or Saïte
dynasty. Fooah has now only a manufactory
of tarbooshes or red caps,
which are generally worn in Egypt,
but in the time of Leo Africanus it
was very flourishing; and though its
streets were narrow, it had the character
of a large town, teeming with
plenty, and noted for the appearance
of its bazaars and shops. “The
women,” he adds, “enjoy so much
freedom here, that their husbands
permit them to go during the day
wherever they please: and the surrounding
country abounds in datetrees.”
Fooah continued to be long
a flourishing town; and Belon describes
it, in the 15th centy., 50 years after
the conquest of Sultan Selim, as second
only to Cairo. During the wars of the
Crusaders, the Christians penetrated
into Egypt, as far as Fooah, in the
reign of Melek el Adel; and having
plundered and burnt the town, retired
with much booty. Fooah has given
its name to madder, which was there first
planted in Egypt.
(E.) Dessook, 10 m. Railway to
Tantah (p. 152), 46 1/2 m. 1 train daily
each way. A fair and festival (Moolid),
in honour of Sheykh Ibrahim ed-Dessookee,
the founder of the Boorhameeyeh
or Ibraheemeeyeh dervishes,
is held here, following those of Tantah
and preceding those of Damanhoor.
(W.) Rahmaneeyeh, 3 m. Here was
the entrance of an old canal to Alexandria;
which some suppose to be the
ancient Canopic branch, placing Naucratis
at this town. But the recent
discoveries of Mr. Petrie appear to prove
that Naucratis was further to the east.
(W.) Shubrakit, 12 m., a town of
2500 inhabitants.
(E.) Sa el - Hagar (“Sa of the
Stone”), 5 m. Those who do not care
for this long river journey, and who
wish to visit the ruins of Saïs, can do so
conveniently by taking a boat from
Kafr ez-Zyat (see p. 152). This can
be hired for about 100 piastres; or

the journey may be made by donkey
in about 5 or 6 hours. The latter
mode has the advantage that it is independent
of wind. About a mile
from the river to the N. are the lofty
mounds of the ancient Saïs, in old
Egyptian Ssa, whose remains give its
name to the modern village. These
remains are now confined to a few
broken blocks, some ruins of houses,
and a large enclosure surrounded by
massive crude-brick walls about 70 ft.
thick, and of very solid construction.
Between the courses of bricks are
layers of reeds, intended to serve as
binders; and hieroglyphics are said to
have been met with on some of the
bricks, which may perhaps contain the
name of the place, or of the king by
whom the walls were built. These
walls enclose a space measuring 2325
by 1960 ft.; the N. side of which is
occupied by the lake mentioned by
Herodotus, where certain mysterious
ceremonies were performed in honour
of Osiris. As he says it was of circular
form, and it is now long and irregular,
we may conclude that it has since
encroached on part of the temenos or
sacred enclosures, where the temple of
Minerva (Neith) and the tombs of the
Saïte kings stood. The site of the
temple appears to have been in the
low open space to the W., and parts of
the wall of its temenos may be traced
on two sides, which was about 720 ft.
in breadth, or a little more than that
around the temple of Tanis. To the
E. of it are mounds, with remains of
crude-brick houses, the walls of which
are partially standing, and here and
there bear evident signs of having been
burnt. This part has received the
name of el-Káláh, “the Citadel,” from
its being higher than the rest, and
from the appearance of two massive
buildings at the upper and lower end,
which seem to have been intended for
defence. It is not impossible that this
was the royal palace. Below it to the
S. is a low space, now cultivated, and
nearly on the same level as the area
where probably the temple stood.
The water of the lake is used for
irrigating this spot, but it is generally
dried up from the end of May until
the next inundation fills the canals.
On its banks, particularly at the
western extremity, grow numerous
reeds, and when full of water it is
frequented by wild ducks and other
water-fowl, now the only inhabitants
of ancient Saïs.
Some low mounds, and the ruins of
houses about 1000 ft from the walls of
the large enclosure, mark probably the
site of the ancient town, the S. extremity
of which is occupied by the
modern village.
There are no remains of sculpture
amidst the modern or ancient houses,
except fragments in the two mosques
and at the door of a house; which last
has the names of King Psammetichus
I., the goddess Neith, and the town of
Ssa or Saïs.
Saïs was a city of great importance,
particularly during the reigns of the
Saïte dynasty, who ruled Egypt about
150 years (B.C. 687 to B.C. 524), until
the Persian invasion under Cambyses;
and some claim for it the honour of
having been the parent of a colony
which founded the city of Athens in
1556 B.C., and introduced the worship
of Minerva on the shores of Greece.
At Saïs were the sepulchres of all
the kings of Egypt, natives of the
Saïte nome. They stood in the temenos,
or sacred enclosure, of the temple of
Minerva; and it was here that the
unfortunate Apries and his rival Amasis
were both buried. The tomb of Apries
was near the temple, on the 1. entering
the temenos; that of Amasis stood
farther from the temple than those of
Apries and his predecessors, in the
vestibule of this enclosure. It consisted
of a large stone chamber, adorned with
columns in imitation of palm-trees, and
other ornaments, within which was an
isolated stone receptacle, with double
doors (at each end), containing the
sarcophagus. It was from this tomb
that Cambyses is said to have taken
the body of Amasis; which, after he
had scourged and insulted it, he
ordered to be burnt; though the Egyptians
assured Herodotus that the body
of some other person had been substtuted
instead of the king's. This last
appears to have been added to give a

greater air of probability to a story
against the Persians, which there is
great reason to doubt, from the indulgent
conduct of Cambyses to the Egyptians
when he first conquered the
country, and from the respect paid to
kings by the Persians; and Cambyses
only had recourse to severity after they
had rebelled against him. “They also
show,” continues the historian, “the
sepulchre of him (Osiris) whom I do
not think it right here to mention. It
stands in the sacred enclosure, behind
the temple of Minerva, reaching along
the whole extent of its wall. In this
temenos are several large stone obelisks;
and near it a lake cased with stone, of
a circular form, and about the size of
that at Delos, called Trochoïdes. On
this lake are represented at night the
sufferings of him, concerning whom,
though much is known to me, I shall
preserve strict silence, except as far as
it may be right for me to speak. The
Egyptians call them mysteries. I shall
observe the same caution with regard
to the institutions of Ceres, called
Thesmophoria, which were brought
from Egypt by the daughters of Danäus,
and afterwards taught by them
to the Pelasgic women.” Saïs was
the place where the “fête of burning
lamps” was particularly “celebrated
during a certain night, when every
one lighted lamps in the open air
around his house. They were small
cups full of salt (and water?) and oil,
with a floating wick which lasted all
night. Strangers went to Saïs from
different parts of Egypt to assist at
this ceremony; but those who could
not be present lighted lamps at their
own homes, so that the festival was
kept, not only at Saïs, but throughout
the country.
From the accounts given of it, the
temple of Neith appears to have been
of great splendour. “Amasis added
to it some very beautiful propylæa,
exceeding all others both in height
and extent, as well as in the dimensions of the stones and in other
respects. He also placed there several
large colossi and androsphinxes, and
brought numerous blocks of extraordinary
size to repair the temple,
some from the quarries near Memphis,
and the largest from Elephantine,
a distance of 20 days' sail from Saïs.”
“But,” adds Herodotus, “what I
admire most is an edifice of a single
block brought from the latter place:
2000 men, all boatmen, were employed
three years in its transport to Saïs. It
is 21 cubits long externally, 14 broad,
8 high: and its measurements within
are 16 cubits 20 digits long, 12 broad,
and 5 high. It stands at the entrance
of the sacred enclosure; and the
reason given by the Egyptians for
its not having been admitted is, that
Amasis, hearing the architect utter a
sigh, as if fatigued by the length of
time employed and the labour he had
undergone, considered it so bad an
omen that he would not allow it to
be taken any farther; though others
affirm that it was in consequence of a
man having been crushed while moving
it with levers.” At Saïs was also a
colossus dedicated by Amasis, 75 ft.
long, similar in size and proportion
to one he placed before the temple of
Ptah at Memphis, which was lying
on its back; and the grand palace of
the kings in the same city, which
Apries left to attack Amasis, and to
which he afterwards returned a prisoner,
is another of the interesting monuments
mentioned at Saïs.
Excavations by Mariette Pasha at the
site of Saïs have served only to reveal
its utter state of ruin, and it is impossible
to fix the position, or ascertain
the plan, of any of the splendid monuments
mentioned by the historian
There is in the Boolak Museum the
sarcophagus of Psametik II. of the
XXVIth Dynasty. It was found at
Damanhoor, whither it was probably
brought from Saïs, which is stated by
Herodotus to have been the burial-place
of this Dynasty.
While the ruins are being visited,
the boat may be sent on to
(E.) Kodabeh, 3 m., where the
traveller can re-embark.
The river takes a considerable bend
eastward to
(E.) Kafr ez-Zyat, 15 m., a station
half-way between Alexandria and
Cairo on the direct line (see p. 152).
(W.) Nigéeleh, 11 m. A short distance
from this village are traces of
an old canal, running to the N.N.W.,
by some supposed to be the Canopic
branch of the Nile. Not far from this
should be the site of Gynaecopolis and
Andropolis, perhaps two names for the
same city.
(W.) Teiriet, 6 m. (Stat. Up. Egypt.
Rly.) Near here are mounds and the
branch of a canal, which follows the
course of the ancient Lycus canalis,
that ran towards the lake Mareotis.
Some supposed Momemphis to have
stood here; but as it was near the
road to the Natron Lakes, it is more
likely to have been at El Booragat, or
Kafr Daoot, near the former of which
are the mounds of an old town of
considerable size. About two or three
miles to the westward are the mounds
of an ancient town, on the canal. The
mounds are called Tel el-Odameh (“of
the bones”), from the bodies found
buried amidst them.
(E.) Nader, 13 m. Wild boars are
found here and in many other parts
of the Delta, particularly in the low
marshlands to the N., and about the
lake Menzaleh. They are also found
in the Fayoom.
(W.) Kafr Daood. (Stat. Up. Egypt.
Rly.)
(W.) Taráneh, 12 m. [Road hence
to the Natron Lakes in 12 hrs. See Rte. 15], the successor of Terenuthis. About 1 1/2 mile to the W., beyond the
canal, are mounds of considerable extent,
which probably mark its ancient
site. The inhabitants of Teráneh are
principally employed in bringing the
natron from the desert, which often
is farmed by some rich merchant;
and to this is attributable the prosperous
condition of the village.
(W.) Lekhmas, 3 m., perhaps the
site of the city of Menelaus, so
called, not from the Greek hero,
but from the brother of the first
Ptolemy.
(W.) Khatabeh, 8 m. A short distance
farther on is the entrance of the
canal, which carries the water to that
of Alexandria. Here are a magnificent
set of pumps for raising the water
from the Nile to the canal; on account
of their great size, it was long before
they worked properly. Those who are
interested in engineering matters
should not fail to visit them.
(W.) Beni Salámeh, 1 m. [Another
road hence to the Natron Lakes in
12 hrs. See Rte. 15.]
(W.) Werdán, 10 m. (Stat Up.
Egypt Rly.) A little above Werdán,
when about due W. of Ashmoon, the
Pyramids are perceived for the first
time; and hereabouts the desert has
invaded the soil on the W. bank, and
even poured its drifted sand into the
Nile. At Ashmoon are lofty mounds,
but no sculptured remains. During
the cholera of 1883 a part of the
English army of occupation was
encamped not far from el Werdán.
(W.) Aboo-Gháleb, 4 1/2 m. The
pyramids can now be seen from the
river, and continue in sight the remainder
of the voyage to Cairo.
Leaving on the right Om ed-Deenár,
we reach the Island of Shelekán, at
the upper end of which is the village
of
(W.) Menásheh, 12 m. (Stat. Up.
Egypt Rly.), at the southern point or
apex of the Delta. Here the Nile
divides itself into the two branches of
Rosetta and Damietta, and is crossed
by the Barrage (see Environs of Cairo,
Exc. IV.).
The actual commencement of the
Delta is perhaps a little farther S.,
much about where it was in old
times.
Cercasora, in the Letopolite nome,
which was just above it on the west
bank, stood, according to Strabo,
nearly opposite, or west of, Heliopolis,
close to the observatory of Eudoxus.
In Herodotus's time the river had one
channel as far as Cercasora; but below
that town it divided itself into three
branches—one, the Pelusiac, going
to the east; another, the Canopic,
turning off to the west; and the
third going straight forward, in the
direction of its previous course through
Egypt to the point of the Delta, which
it divided in twain as it ran to the sea.
It was not less considerable in the
volume of its water, nor less celebrated,
than the other two, and was

called the Sebennytic branch: and
from it two others, the Saïtic and
Mendesian, were derived, emptying
themselves into the sea by two distinct
mouths. This old Sebennytic branch
has been renewed in a fine wide
canal, which starts from the point
of the Delta midway between the two
modern branches corresponding to the
old Pelusiac and Canopic, and continues
as far as Tantah.
(E.) Shoobra, 12 m., a pleasant
village with a palace and gardens.
(See Environs of Cairo, Exc. I.) A
shady avenue of trees leads from it to
Cairo, the numerous minarets of which
town can now be seen.
(E.) Embábeh, 4 m. In the plain
near this village was fought on July
21, 1798, the battle called by the
French “of the Pyramids,” but by the
Egyptians “of Embábeh.” It ended
in the complete defeat of the forces
of the latter, consisting of 24,000
infantry and 10,000 cavalry, known
under the name of Memlooks. Seven
thousand of these famous horsemen are
said to have perished
(E.) Boolak, which may be called
the port of Cairo, lies nearly opposite
(see Environs of Cairo, Exc. VI.).
Owing to the improvements that
have taken place in the land lying
between Boolak and Cairo, and the
rapid extension of the city in the
direction of the river, the open space
formerly existing between the two
is being rapidly covered with houses.
The northern extremity of Boolak,
at which the traveller's boat will
probably anchor, is called Ramleh.
A great collection of boats for hire
will be seen moored to the bank;
and the process of building and repairing
them is carried on with great
vigour and activity.
Cairo can be reached by donkey or
carriage in ten to fifteen minutes.
A little distance farther S., on the
other side of the Island of Gezeereh, is
(W.) Boolak ed-Dakroor, the Cairo
terminus of the Upper Egypt line
(see p. 159).

ROUTE 6.
ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO BY RAIL.
128 MILES.

Five trains daily from the Moharrem
Bey Stat.: one express at 5.30
P.M. in 3 hrs. and 40 m. and four
ordinary trains at 8.0 and 10 A.M. and
2.15 and 10.30 P.M. For those who
wish to see the country the 10 A.M.
train is a good one. It stops 15 m. at
Tantah for lunch, arriving at Cairo
at 3 P.M. The first and second class
carriages are good, the third dirty.
If the traveller has much luggage, he
had better send it to the station with a
commissionnaire some time before the
train starts
The railway between Alexandria
and Cairo was the first ever made in
the East. It was constructed in 1855,
and, with the continuation from Cairo
to Suez now done away with, was the
alternative proposed by Stephenson
for the Maritime Canal across the
Isthmus of Suez. (See p. 5).
On leaving the station, the line first
traverses some gardens, passing
Hadra Stat., 3 m., and
Sidi Gaber Stat., 1 m., where the
line to Rosetta branches off. On the
1. can be seen the Viceroy's palace at
Ramleh. On the r. the line skirts
the Lake Mareotis, stretching far
away out of sight. In winter, after
the rising of the Nile, the water
reaches in many places to the embankment,
but in the late spring and
summer there is a wide expanse of
swampy marsh, as treacherous to the
foot as it is disagreeable to the eye
and unpleasant to the nose. Flocks
of aquatic birds may often be seen
feeding close to the railway, but
should the traveller, encouraged by
their apparent tameness as he looks
at them from the carriage window,
attempt on some other occasion to try

his chances with the gun, he will find
them very wary and unapproachable.
The line passes through the defences
thrown up by Araby in 1882 when he
withdrew the Egyptian army from
Alexandria, and prepared to resist the
advance of the English. The farm
buildings of Kafr Douar were connected
by earthworks, and a double
line of defence constructed, covering
the railway and Mahmoodeeyeh Canal.
The first line was about 1200 yards in
length. Batteries for rifled guns were
built at intervals. The lines were not
attacked by the English, and were
surrendered after the collapse of the
Egyptian army at Tel-el-Keber.
Kafr Douar Stat., 14 m., a favourite
rendezvous of Alexandrian sportsmen.
Wild boar are often found in the
neighbourhood. Bordered by cottonfields
on one side and marshes on the
other, the line reaches
Aboo Hommos Stat., 11 1/4 m. The
Mahmoodeeyeh Canal here turns eastward
till it joins the Rosetta branch of
the Nile at Atfeh.
Damanhoor Stat., 10 m. [Railway
to Dessook, 12 m. (p. 146). Road and
river to Atfeh and Rosetta, Tte. 2.]
First station at which express stops.
A large town, population 19,600,
capital of the richly-cultivated province
of Beheyreh. It occupies the
site of the ancient Egyptian Pi-thut,
and the Roman . It has several cotton manufactories,
and a few respectable-looking houses,
but otherwise presents the usual appearance
of an Arab village; shapeless
huts and houses of crude mudbricks,
relieved sometimes in their
bare monotony by the graceful outline
of a few minarets, and the dome-like
cupolas of a Mussulman cemetery;
but only really picturesque when
nestled in a grove of palms, like the
hamlet on the right immediately after
leaving the station. It was close to
Damanhoor that Napoleon was nearly
taken prisoner by the Memlooks in
1798. On being expostulated with
for exposing himself to such a risk, he
replied, “Il n'est point écrit là haut
que je doive jamais être prisonnier des
Mamelouks—prisonnier des Anglais, à
la bonne heure.
” A fair called the
Moolid esh-Sheykh Aboo Rish is
held here three times a year, following
those of Tantah and Dessook,
and presenting the same features (see
p. 152). From Damanhoor the railway
passes through a richly-cultivated
plain, unbroken by the slightest
elevation, to
Teh el-Baroot Stat., 16 m. [Junction
with the Upper Egypt Railway,
which follows the left bank of the Nile
as far as, at present, Asyoot, a distance
of 357 m. from Alexandria. It offers
an alternative way of reaching Cairo
by rail, but is not to be recommended.]
About six miles to the W. of Teh el-Baroot
is the site of the Greek city of
Naucratis, which Mr. Flinders Petrie
had the honour of discovering in the
winter of 1884. It had formerly been
assumed by many writers that this
city was situated on the Rosetta branch
of the Nile, not far from the present
town of Dessook; but Mr. Petrie's
excavations seem to have put it
beyond question that the real site was
close to the village of Nebireh on the
canal which ran from Memphis to
the mouth of the Nile. The accounts
given by Herodotus and Ptolemy agree
with this hypothesis, and unless some
future discovery should prove that
Naucratis was elsewhere, we may take
it as certain that this was the spot
where the Greek colonists founded the
town in the seventh century B.C. It
appears to have been built at first of
wood, and afterwards rebuilt of sundried
bricks in the reign of Psammeticus
I. who had his capital at Saïs on
the Nile about 15 miles E. of the spot
chosen for the site of Naucratis. It
was probably about the same period
that the great Temenos, which served
as both temple and fortress, was built.
The city steadily grew in prosperity
until the epoch of the Persian conquest,
when it appears to have commenced to
decline. The foundation of Alexandria
in 323 B.C. struck a serious blow at the
greatness of Naucratis, but the latter
continued to exist until the second
century A.D., after which it gradually
sank into its present condition, i.e. a
heap of rubbish mounds with a few

huts scattered over them. Mr. Petrie
and Mr. Gardner have already succeeded
in obtaining some most interesting
remains; of the five sacred foundations
mentioned by Herodotus, four have already
been identified, i.e. the Hellenion,
the temples of Apollo, Aphrodite, and
the Samian Hera; some interesting
stelae have been discovered, and a
most important collection of Grecian
pottery and metal articles have been
brought together. The excavations are
still being continued, at the expense of
the Egyptian Exploration Fund. For
having aided in the discovery of
Naucratis, the subscribers to this fund
deserve the thanks of all archaeologists.
A few miles beyond Teh el-Baroot
we reach the Rosetta branch of the
Nile, 65 m. from Alexandria. The
river is crossed by a fine iron bridge
of 12 spans, resting on hollow iron
piles. It opens for the passage of
large vessels in a very ingenious
manner. A part of the roadway, two
spans in length, turns on a pivot on
the piers supporting it until it is
brought at right angles to the bridge,
thus leaving two passages: the single
pillars above and below the bridge
serve to support the two ends of the
part thus moved, and protect it from
being injured by vessels driven against
it. The cost of this bridge, which has
only a single line of rails, with a footpath
alongside, was 400,000l. Before
its construction, trains were ferried
over. It was here that Achmet Pasha,
elder brother of the late Khedive,
and at the time of his death heir to
the viceroyalty, was drowned in 1856.
He was returning from Alexandria one
night, when the driver, not seeing in
the darkness that the ferry boat was
not in its place, ran the train over the
bank into the river. Immediately on
the S. side of the bridge is
Kafr ez-Zyat Stat., 10 1/2 m., 1 hr.
50 min. by express from Alexandria.
Trains stop here 15 min. [Donkey
(5 hrs.) or boat (3-6 hrs. according to
wind) to Sa el-Hágar, the ruins of
Saïs (p. 146).] We have now entered
the Delta, and the traveller cannot
fail to be struck with the amazing
fertility of the vast plain stretched out
on either side of him, divided not by
hedges, but by innumerable canals and
raised dykes, and varied in its flat
monotony only by the brown moundlike
villages.
Tantah Junct. Stat., 11 m. [Branch
lines to Talkah (opposite Mansoorah),
and thence to Damietta, passing by
Mahallet Roh, Mahallet el-Kebeer,
Semenhood, and Shirbeen, 72 miles;
to Zifteh, viâ Mahallet Roh, 28 miles
(see Rtes. 8 and 9); Dessook, 42 miles
(see Rte. 5); and to Shibeen el-Kom,
16 1/4 miles. 1 train daily each way on
all these lines.] Tantah is a large
and important town (pop. 33,750),
capital of the province of Gharbeeyeh.
It boasts of a handsome well-built
station, and a palace of the Khedive.
Near the station are two Inns, one
kept by a Greek, the other by an
Italian. There are English, American,
French, and German Consular Agents
The Mosque of the Seyyid Ahmed el-Beda-wee has been restored, and is
very handsome.
Tantah is celebrated for the Fairs or Festivals held three times a year—
in January, April, and August—in
honour of the Seyyid el-Bedawee, who
was a Moslem saint of great renown
He was born at Fez in A.D. 1200 (A.H.
596), and, having passed through
Tantah with all his family on his way
to Mecca, established himself in that
place on his return, and was buried
there at his death. He seems to have
succeeded to Shoo, the god of Sebennytus,
the Egyptian Hercules, whose attributes
have been given him by popular
fancy or tradition. It is the Seyyid
whose aid is invoked when any one is
in need of strength to resist a sudden
calamity; the effects of a storm, or
any frighful accident, are thought to
be averted by calling out “Ya seyyid,
ya Bedawee
;” and the song of “Gab
el-Yoosara
,” “he brought back the captives,”
records the might and prowess
of this powerful hero. In the second
call to prayer chanted by the muezzin
an hour before daybreak, he is invoked
under the name of Aboo Farrág, Sheykh
of the Arabs, and coupled with El Hasan

and El Hoseyn, and “all the favourites
of God.”
Each of the fêtes lasts 8 days, and
those in the spring and summer are
attended by an immense concourse of
people, as many as 200,000 being
sometimes collected together. The
open space round the town is covered
with tents of all sorts and sizes: the
great, square, gaudy-coloured tent
of the rich Sheykh el-beled (village
chief), with horses, camels, and donkeys
picketed all about it, and flanked
on both sides by the smaller tents of
his followers and dependants; the deep,
oblong, equally gaudy booths of the
singing and the dancing girls, the
jugglers, the romance reciters, and the
story-tellers; round tents of various
sizes and conditions, from the blue-lined
one of the well-to-do fellah down to
the ragged bell of his poorer neighbour;
and, most picturesque of all, the
“black tents of Kedar,”—the long, low,
flat-topped tent of camel's-hair blanket
that marks now, as of old, the temporary
resting-place of the wandering
Bedaween.
Although a religious festival, pleasure
is the chief object of the pilgrims,
and a few fáfhahs at the tomb of the
saint are sufficient to satisfy every
pious requirement, and to induce the
hope of obtaining his blessing. Business,
however, is not neglected. The
cattle and horse fairs held during
these festivals are the most important
in Egypt. Formerly a brisk trade in
slaves was carried on, and the slave
market was one of the sights of the
fair; but that is now done away with,
and whatever traffic there is has to be
done in secret. The great day of the
fair is a Friday, when a procession takes
place, in which the Sheykh of the
Ahmedeeyeh dervishes is escorted in
great pomp on horseback, and the Oolad
Nooh
play an important part (see p.
204). Certain relics of the saint are
displayed, sometimes in the procession.
Various masquerades are indulged in,
and personages and nationalities caricatured.
The evening is the time at which
to see the fête at its height; and a
walk through the streets and booths
will afford many a curious and suggestive
sight. As at the festival of
Bubastis, in old times, a greater quantity
of wine was consumed than at any
other period of the year, so at Tantah,
greater excesses are committed by the
modern Egyptians than on any other
occasion. The traveller who finds himself
in Egypt at the time of either of
these fêtes will do well to pay Tantah
a visit, but it is not recommended to
take ladies to Tantah at these times.
Each of the three Tantah fairs is
followed by a festival at Dessook,
in honour of the Sheykh Ibrahim
ed-Dessookee; and that, again, by one
at Damanhoor, in honour of Sheykh
Aboo Rish. Processions and proclamations
are made at Cairo and other towns,
announcing the approach of these great
annual fairs, and visitors who are not
able to see the Tantah fair would do
well to go to one of the others.
Still the same rich country to
Birket es-Sab Stat., 11 1/4 m. Here
the railway crosses the great Bahr
Shebin canal, which irrigates a great
part of the Province of Gharbeeyeh.
After a run of 14 miles, the railway
crosses the Damietta branch of the
Nile by a bridge similar to that at
Kafr ez-Zyat, and passing on the left a
handsome palace built by Abbas Pasha,
and the ruins of the old town of
Athribis.
Benha Junct. Stat., 14 m., is reached
in 3 hrs. from Alexandria. [Branch
line viá Zagazig and Ismailia to Suez,
127 1/2 miles (see Rtes. 4 and 7); and
viâ Zagazig to Mansoorah, 63 miles,
and Salahiyeh (see Rte. 9).] Benha
el-Assal
, “Benha of Honey,” is a town
of 8000 inhabitants, the capital of
Kalioobeeyeh. It was at one time the
centre of the cotton trade in that part of
the Delta, but Zagazig has now taken
its place, and no vestiges of its former
occupation remain save some ruined
and deserted cotton manufactories:
nor does it any longer produce the
honey from which it derived its name,
It is recorded by the Arab historian
that, at the time of Amer's invasion,
the presents sent to Mohammed by
John Mekaukes, a rich and noble

Copt, included among other things a
jar of honey from Benha el-Assal. Its
chief article of trade now is oranges,
of which the groves all around its
neighbourhood supply large quantities
to the Cairo market; and the Yoosef
Effendi oranges, large juicy mandarins
from Benha, are considered the best in
Egypt.
The ruins of the old town of Athribis ,
now Athreeb, lie to the N.E. of the
modern village. They present somewhat
the appearance of a huge deserted
brickfield, with here and there heaps
of red cinders. The town appears to
have been of considerable extent,
nearly a mile in length E. and W.,
and 3/4 m. N. and S. It was intersected
by two main streets crossing
each other nearly at right angles; and
there was probably a square at the
spot where they met. A little beyond
this quadrivium, or crossway, to the
W., is another open space, apparently
the site of the principal temple, and
traces may perhaps be discovered of
the sacred enclosure on the outer side.
Most of the objects found at Athribis
have been of Roman or Greek date;
but that it possessed buildings of older
time is certain, not only from the
antiquity of the place, but from a
monument found there of a granite
lion bearing the name of Rameses II.,
which has been brought to Europe.
To the N. of the town is a double row
of low mounds resembling the banks of
a canal, or the remains of walls; but
they extend only to a certain distance,
about 2000 ft., and are closed at the
eastern end, so that they suit neither of
these two. Many of the houses of the
town have been burnt, as is frequently
the case in Egyptian towns; and parts
of the mounds have been used for tombs,
doubtless in after times, when the limits
of the inhabited part were contracted.
They may, therefore, be referred to a
late Roman or Christian epoch, like
those at Bubastis and other towns;
and thus the occurrence of tombs in
the midst of houses, which is at first
perplexing, may be accounted for.
The mounds are constantly decreasing
in size, owing to the crude-brick dust,
of which they are chiefly composed,
being taken away for repairing embankments,
manuring the land, &c.
During this process objects of value
are occasionally found.
2 1/2 miles to the N. of Benha the Bahr
Moez leaves the Nile. It was the ancient
Mendesian branch of the river,
and is now used as a canal. The train
next passes Toukh 71/2 m. and Kalioob
11 1/2 m. [Branch line to Zagazig, Ismailia,
and Suez (see Rte. 7); and to
Zagazig and Mansoorah and Damietta
(see Rte. 9)]. The Barrage (see Environs
of Cairo, Exc. IV.) is about 3
miles distant to the W. The Libyan
chain of hills now comes into view behind
the Pyramids to the W.; while
on the E. appear the Mokattam hills,
and the rocky promontory on which
stands the Citadel, conspicuous by the
tall slender minarets of the Mosque of
Mohamed Ali.
After passing Kalioob the country
becomes much more wooded, and villas
with pretty gardens and well-grown
plantations offer a pleasant relief to
the eye after the unbroken monotony
of the country hitherto traversed. On
the E. may be seen in the distance
the mounds of Heliopolis, the gardens
of Matareeyeh, the plantations of Kooba,
and the vast barracks of Abbasseeyeh.
On the W. is the palace of Shoobra,
and the magnificent avenue leading
from it to Cairo. A few minutes
more, and the train enters the station
of
Cairo , 10 m.—Omnibuses, carriages,
and donkeys await the traveller. If
the traveller has no one to meet him,
he had better put himself into the
hands of the commissionaire of the
hotel to which he intends going.

DESCRIPTION OF PLAN OF CAIRO.

BAZAARS.

Booksellers E.2
Gemaleeyeh D. 2
Hamzówee E. 3
Khán Khaléel D. E. 2
Sookereeyeh F.3
Sook el-Attáreen (Perfumes) E. 2
Sook el-Fahhámeen E. 3
Sook el-Gobargeeyeh (Jewellery) D.E.2
Sook en Nahháseen D. 2
Sook es-Saeegh (Gold and Silver) D. 2
Sook es-Soodán E. 2
Sook es-Sullah G. 3

CHURCHES.

Coptic Cathedral C. 4
English Church D. 5
German Lutheran Church D. 5
New Presbyterian Church C. 5
Roman Catholic Church D. 3

CONSULATES.

British C. 5
French D. 5
German D. 5

GATES.

Bab el Azab H. 3
Bab el Fotooh C. 2
Bab el Gedeed H. 2
Bab el Ghoreib H. 2
Bab el Ghoreib E. 1
Bab el Hassaneeych B. 1
Bab el Karáteh I. 3
Bab en Nasr C. 1, 2
Bab esh Shareeyeh C. 3
Bab el Wezeer G. 2
Bab el Wustánee H. 2
Bab ez-Zuweyleh F. 3

HOTELS.

Shepheard's Hotel C. 5
New Hotel D. 5
Hôtel du Nil D. 3
Hôtel d'Orient C. 4
Hôtel Royal C. 4

MISCELLANEOUS.

American Mission C. 5
Boorg ez-Zifflr D. 1
Burckhardt's Grave C. 1
Cemetery (English) J. 7
Cemetery (Coptic) I. 7
Cemetery (Roman Catholic) I. 7
Cemetery (Mohammedan at Bab
en-Nasr) C. 1
Citadel H. I. 2, 3
Foom el-Khaleeg I. 7
Joseph's Well I. 7
Kasr en-Neel, Barracks E. 7
Library at el-Gammameez F. G. 4
Museum of Egyptian Antiquities C. 8
Museum of Arab Antiquities C. 2
Opera House D. 4
Police Station (Zaptieh) D. 4
Post Office D. 4
Public offices F. G. 6
Railway Station A. 4. 5
Sheykh el-Mooftee's House D. E. 3, 4
Sheykh es-Sadát's House G. 4
Telegraph Office, D. 4

MOSQUES.

El-Akbar (Dancing Dervishes) H. 4
El Ashraf E. 2
El-Azhar E. 2
Berkook D. 2
El-Ghóree E. 2
Hakim C. 2
Sultan Hassan H. 3
El-Hassaneyn E. 2
Kalaoon (Muristan) D. 2
Kasr el-Ain (Howning Dervishes) H. 7
Keyssoon F. G. 3
Merdánee F. 2, 3
Mohamed Ali H. 2, 3
Mohamed Bey E. 2
En-Nasr D. 2, H. 2
Moaiyud E. F. 3
Sheykhoon H. 4
Sitteh Safeeya F. 3
Ak-Súnkur or Ibrahim Agha G. 2
Tooloon H. 4
Ez-Záhir B. 2
Sitteh Zeyneb H. 5

PALACES.

Abdeen E. F. 5
Ibrahim Pasha F. 7, 8
Kasr al-Ali G. 7
Kasr en-Neel E. 7
Kiamil Pasha C. D. 5
Mansoor Pasha E. 3, 4

PUBLIC PLACES.

Atab el-Kadra D. 4
Bab el-Khalk E. 4
Bab el-Look E. 6
Bourse, Place de la C. 4
Esbekeeyeh C. D. 4, 5
Faghalla B. 5
Fish Market C. 4
Sultan Hassan G. 3
Horse Market H. I. 3
De 1'Hippodrome, Rond Point D. 5
Karameydan or Mohamed
Ali, Place H. I. 3
De 1'Opéra, Place D. 5
Rosetti Gardens C. D. 4
Rumeyleh H. 3

STREETS, ROADS.

Abbasseeyeh, Road to B. 1, 2, 3, 4
Abdul Aziz, Boulevard D. E. 4, 5
El-Ahmar, Darb F. G. 2
Bab el Hadid B. C. 5
Boolak, Road to C. D. 5, 6, 7
Clot Bey, Boulevard B. C. 4, 5,
Foom el-Khaleeg, Boulevard H. I. 7
El-Gammameez, Darb F. G. 4
Gámah el-Benát, Sikket D. E. 3
Gemeleeyeh D. 2
Ghoreeyeh E. 2, 3
Hawala, Route de D. E. 5
Kasr el-Ali, Boulevard F. G. 7
Kasr en-Neel, Road to D. E. 6
Margoosheh, Sikket C. 2, 3
Mohammed Ali, Boulevard D. E. F. G. 3, 4
Mooskee D. E. 2, 3, 4
Serafs, Rue des D. 2, 3
Sheykb Réhan, Boulevard F. 4, 5, 6
Shoobra, Road to A. 5
Soliman Pasha, Boulevard E. 5, 6
Sookereeyeh E. F. 3
Tribunal, Rue dn D. 4
El-Yahoodeh, Darb D, 3

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156

SECTION III.
CAIRO AND ITS ENVIRONS

PAGE
CAIRO:
General Information 156
Description of Cairo 161
ENVIRONS OF CAIRO:—
EXCURS. I. Shoobra 216
EXCURS. II. Heliopolis 217
EXCURS. III. The “Petrified
Forest”
221
EXCURS. IV. The Barrage 222
EXCURS. V. Old Cairo and the
Nilometer
223
EXCURS VI. Boolak and Gezeereh 232
EXCURS VII. The Pyramids 234
EXCURS VIII. Sakkárah 263
EXCURS IX. Helwán. Toora, and
Masárah
275

CAIRO.

GENERAL INFORMATION.

1. Hotels.—2. Lodgings. Houses.—3. Club. Cafés. Restaurants:—4. Post
Office.
—5. Telegraphs.—6. Carriages. Donkeys.—7. Servants.—8. Bankers. —9. Consulates.—10. Medical Men.—11, Shops. Tradespeople.—12. Agents
for forwarding Goods.
—13. Railways.—14. Churches.—15. Boats for
Nile Voyage.
—16. Plan for seeing Cairo and Neighbourhood.
1. HOTELS.—It is the custom to
charge a fixed sum a day for board
(exclusive of wine) and lodging,
whether every meal is taken in the
house or not. At all the hotels arrangements
can be made for a lengthened
stay at a reduced rate. During the
season it is important to engage rooms
in advance.
Shepheard's Hotel is the oldest
established hotel in Cairo, much frequented
by English and American
travellers. It is well situated, with
gardens inside and outside the quadrangle
which it forms. The rooms are
large and lofty and very clean. Baths
and reading room. Board and lodging
168. a day; sitting rooms 108. to 17.
extra.
New Hotel, opposite the Esbekeeyeh
Gardens. Large and well situated.
Baths and reading room. Terms the
same as at Shepheard's.
Hôtel du Nil , in a small street off

the Mooskee. The situation is not
good, but the hotel itself is in every
respect very comfortable, and the
charges moderate; cuisine good. There
is a garden inside the quadrangle, and
the rooms are free from dust and noise.
Baths and reading room. Board and
lodging 128. to 168. a day.
Hôtel Royal, in Sharia Waj-el-Birkit,
near the English Consulate.
Comfortable and reasonable. Cooking
is good.
Hôtel d' Orient, in the Esbekeeyeh.
Hôtel d'Angleterre, in the Esbekeeyeh
Gardens.
Hotel Couteret. A private hotel,
opposite Shepheard's.
2. LODGINGS, HOUSES.—There are
some good furnished and unfurnished
flats to be let in Cairo, but they must
be taken for the season, and the rents
are very high. People going to Egypt
for the first time, if they intend remaining
the winter at Cairo, had
better make special arrangements at one
of the hotels, as the expense of lodgings
and servants will certainly be no less,
and the trouble considerably greater.
3. CLUB, CAFÉS, RESTAURANTS.
The Club Khedivial is in Sharia
Manakh.
The Sporting Club, frequented by
English officers, is well situated, opposite
the Esbekeeyeh Gardens.
There are several Cafés, chiefly in
the Esbekeeyeh, of which the Café de
la Bourse
and the Café de l'Europe are
perhaps the best. There are also
numerous cafés chantants. An excellent
cup of coffee can be obtained at
the Arab cafés.
Among the Restaurants may be
mentioned Santi's in the Esbekeeyeh
Garden. The cooking is excellent.
Breakfasts and dinners can be obtained
by persons living in lodgings, who do
not care to have the trouble of housekeeping.
4: POST OFFICE. (See also p. 6.)—
On the E. side of the Esbekeeyeh
Gardens. Letter-boxes at the hotels
and at other places. Full particulars
as to the hours of posting letters for
Europe are given in all the hotels.
People who intend spending the
winter in Egypt had better have letters
addressed either to the Poste Restante,
the hotel to which they intend going,
or to their banker's, who will forward
them to Upper Egypt. Travellers by
Cook's steamers should have their
letters addressed to the care of Messrs.
Cook and Sons. Letters for Upper
Egypt can be registered.
5. TELEGAPHS. (See also p. 6.)—
Eastern Telegraph Co., in the Esbekeeyeh.
Messages to all parts of the
world, and some places in Egypt.
Egyptian Government Telegraph, in
Sharia Kasr-el-Nil. Messages can now
be sent in European languages to all
important towns in Egypt.
6. CARRIAGES. DONKEYS.Carriages now abound in Cairo; there is a
regular tariff, which should be adhered
to in general, but sometimes the driver
expects a little more, and will take less
if a bargain is made. It is better for
travellers to settle with the driver personally
than through a dragoman.
More is expected after dark, and on
Sundays, Fridays, and holydays. The
continually increasing number of broad
roads and streets makes it possible to
get about a great deal in carriages;
but for the Oriental parts of the city
a donkey will still be found to be the
pleasantest means of conveyance.
Donkeys may be hired for from 28. to
38. a day; short courses, 6d.; excursions
for the whole day outside the
town, 58.; but both carriage-drivers
and donkey-boys are a race very difficult
to satisfy, and a demand for more
will always be preferred, as also a
request for backsheesh.
7. SERVANTS (see also p. 6). —
The pay of a commissionnaire or valet
de place
is 58. a day.
The following may be taken as a
fair scale of monthly payment for
different kinds of Servants, when hired
for the Nile voyage:—
£
Good dragoman, speaking English,
French, or Italian, with
canteen
12–15
The same, without canteen 7–10
Under-servant, speaking a little
of some European language
3–4
Good man-cook 6–8
Ordinary man-cook 3–5
The traveller, however, who visits
Egypt for the first time, will have
little need to trouble himself about
servants' wages, as he will find it much
more convenient and satisfactory to
pay a dragoman a fixed sum for providing
him with servants, food, &c.
(See p. 387.)
Of course it is possible to do without
a dragoman for the Nile voyage,
and look after everything for oneself;
but whoever tries it should be gifted
with an abnormal amount of patience,
and should not be attempted unless
the traveller speaks Arabic. (See p.
388.)
Persons intending to remain the
winter at Cairo, who can speak Arabic,
may hire servants at a lower rate
than that given in the above scale,
e.g. cook, 3l.-4l.; other servants, 2l.-3l.
Native servants, particularly such as are
more especially needed for a residence
in the town, such as porters (bowab),
grooms (seiyis), &c., can be hired
through the medium of the Sheykh of
the guild to which they belong, as
that functionary will settle what wages
they ought to receive, and be responsible
for their conduct and behaviour.
8. BANKERS. Bank of Egypt, in
Sharia Kasr-el-Nil. Credit Lyonnais,
near the Post Office. Anglo-Egyptian
Bank
, in Sharia Kasr-el-Nil. Imperial
Ottoman Bank
, in Sharia el
Mograby. Most of the banks of Alexandria
have agencies at Cairo.
There are money-changers (seráf) in
most of the streets, but the traveller
had better be well acquainted with the
value of the different coins before dealing
with them.
9. CONSULATES. (See also p. 2.)—
English; Sir Evelyn Baring, K.C.B.
(Consul General and Minister Plenipotentiary)
resides at Cairo. R. Borg,
Esq.
, Legal Vice-Consul; office near
Shepheard's Hotel: hours 10 to 4.
10. MEDICAL MEN. — Fhysicians: Dr. Grant, of Aberdeen, for many years
resident at Cairo, and well acquainted
with the ailments incidental to the
country; he resides in the Esbekeeyeh.
Dr. Murisson, who resides above the
English Consulate, close to Shepheard'
Hotel. He has lived some years in
Egypt, and is very highly thought of.
Dr. Sandwith, who lives in Sharia el
Mograby, near the New Hotel. Dr.
Wildt
, German, speaking English and
French, long resident in Egypt. Dr.
Milton. Oculists: Dr. Brugsch
(son
of the well-known Egyptologist).
Dentists: Mr. Broadway, Mooskee.
Waller Bey, Mooskee.
11. SHOPS, TRADESPEOPLE.—There
are very few things that cannot now
be purchased at Cairo, good in quality
and fairly moderate in price.
Booksellers.Penasson, in the street
behind the Post Office. Barbier, close
to the Hôtel d'Orient. Ebner, Boulevard
Clot Bey.
Photographers.Schoefft, Abbasseeyeh
Road near the station. Sebah,
near the English Consulate. Strohmeyer and Abdallah, in the street
leading from Shepheard's to the Railway
Station. The photographs taken
in Cairo are excellent.
Chemists.British Pharmacy;
English drugs. Egyptian Pharmacy,
near the Hôtel d'Orient, good. Ducros,
French, Esbekeeyeh. Sommer, German,
Mooskee and Esbekeeyeh.
General Outfitters.Paschal, Esbekeeyeh,
near the Post Office. Magasin
Universel
, ditto. Monferrato, near
Shepheard's Hotel. Maison Barbot (for
ladies). Cécile (modiste). Gatt (tailor),
Spaturi (shoemaker), Mooskee.
Provision and Wine Merchants.
Fleurent, behind the Post Office; an
excellent shop. The British Stores and Walker, near the Royal Hotel.
Ablett, Mooskee.
Gunsmith,—Baiocchi.
Arab Woodwork, &c.Parvis, in a
court near the entrance to the Mooskee;
also makes carved and inlaid
panels in imitation of old patterns.
Philip, opposite Shepheard's Hotel;
good shop. Giuliana Kytikas, near

Shepheard's Hotel. Malluk and Hatourn,
in the Mooskee.
For native shops see BAZAARS.
12. AGENTS FOR FORWARDING GOODS.Messrs. Cook and Son, Mr. Large,
opposite Shepheard's Hotel.
13. RAILWAYS. (See also p. 5.)—
The terminus of the Alexandria and
Cairo Line
, and its branches to the
different parts of the Delta, and of the
Suez Line, is on the N. side of the city,
beyond the Ismaileeyeh Canal. The
station for the Upper Egypt Line is at
Boolak ed-Dakroor, on the left bank of
the river below Boolak: 1 train daily,
early in the morning. This line joins
the Alexandria and Cairo line at Teh
el-Baroot. The station for the Helwán
Line
is near the Citadel.
14. CHURCHES. (See also p. 186.)—
Church of England: Resident Chaplain,
Very Rev. Dean Butcher; the
church is behind the New Hotel; it
was erected by public subscription
on a piece of ground given by the late
Khedive, and was opened in 1876.
It is dependent on voluntary contributions.
German Lutheran Church: the
foundation-stone of the new building,
in Sharia el-Mograby, was laid by the
Prince Imperial of Germany in 1869.
New Presbyterian Church, attached to
the American Mission in the Esbekeeyeh.
Roman Catholic Church, in
the Frank quarter, to the left of the
Mooskee. Coptic Cathedral, in the
Copt quarter, near the Esbekeeyeh.
Greek Church, &c.
15. BOATS FOR THE NILE VOYAGE,
STEAMERS.—There are various kinds
of boats, all more or less similar in
construction though differing in name,
to be seen on the Nile, but the one
which claims special attention, as that
in which the traveller makes his
voyage on the river, is called a “dahabeeyeh.” Dahabeeyehs vary much in
size and method of arrangement, but
the smallest have at least two or three
cabins and a bath, and the largest have
from six to eight single-bed cabins,
with a saloon cabin in the centre, and
another at the stern, which can also be
used as a double or single bedroom;
bath, pantry, &c. The usual-sized
dahabeeyeh contains three single-bed
cabins, a centre saloon cabin, a stern
cabin to be used either as double or
single bedroom, or sitting-room, a bath,
&c. The hire of these boats is always
varying, and it is almost impossible
to set down any fixed sum; but the
following may be taken as a fair
average rate per month:—
£
A large, well fitted-up boat for
6 or 8 persons
90-110
A medium-sized boat for 4 or 6
persons
60-80
A small boat for 2 or 8 persons 40-50
The difference between those that will
accommodate the same number of
persons consists in the furniture and
fittings-up. The traveller who is not
acquainted with the language, and has
no resident friend to assist him in the
selection of a dahabeeyeh, is recommended
to consult Messrs. Cook and Son.
But although some travellers may
prefer the privacy of a dahabeeyeh, the
greater number will, in future, make
the trip up the Nile in the new and
comfortable steamers of Messrs. Cook
and Son, which leave Cairo weekly from
December to March. Travelling in
these, the trip to the First Cataract
and back to Cairo can be made in three
weeks, and to the Second Cataract and
back in four weeks. 1st Class fare
to the First Cataract, 50l; to the
Second Cataract, 70l. These fares include
all expenses for sight-seeing.
It is very advisable to engage places
before leaving England, as the demand
is considerable. (See p. 386.)
16. PLAN FOR SEELNG CAIRO AND
NEIGHBOURHOOD.— It will usually be
found most convenient to divide the
day into two parts, so as to return in
the middle of the day to luncheon;
but this, of course, will depend on the
inclination and convenience of the
traveller. The excursion to Sakkárah
will in any case require a whole day,

and many will not think that too much
to devote to the Pyramids.
In Six Days.—For those who, without
being too hurried, wish to see
everything of interest in as short a
time as possible, the following way of
arranging their time may be recommended:—
1st Day (Morn.). Drive about the
town, and visit the different bazaars.
(Aft.) Drive down the Shoobra-road,
and visit the Cicolani gardens. A Sunday
or Friday afternoon should be chosen
for this excursion.
2nd Day. Excursion to Old Cairo ,
visiting Mosque of Amer, Coptic
Churches, Island of Roda, and Nilometer.
Return by European Cemeteries,
Mosques of Sevyideh Zeyneb,
Tooloon, and Hassan, Tombs of Imám
esh-Shaféeh, and Citadel. This will
require 5 or 6 hours. It should be
arranged so as to be on the platform
outside the Mosque of Mohamed Ali
for the view about half-an-hour before
sunset. The day may be divided into
two parts by returning straight from
the Nilometer to the hotel, and then
making a fresh start.
3rd Day. Excursion to the Pyramids,
starting early. On the way back see
the Palace gardens of Geezeh and the
Palace of Gezeereh.
4th Day (Morn.). Museum of Egyptian
Antiquities. (Aft.) Excursion to
Heliopolis.
5th Day. Excursion to Petrified
Forest and Tombs of the Khalifs (Kaitbey).
Go out by the Bab en-Nasr and
the Mosque of el-Hakim, visiting the
Arab Museum in this Mosque, visit the
Boorg ez-Ziffir, and take the Tombs of
the Khalifs on the way to the Petrified
Forest. Return from the Petrified
Forest over the Mokattam Hills, arriving
at Gebel Gyooshy at sunset and returning
by the Citadel. This excursion
takes the whole day. Lunch should
be brought and eaten near Moses' Well
before reaching the Petrified Forest.
Carriages can be taken at the Citadel
to return to the hotel.
6th Day. Excursion to Sakkárah.
This will occupy the whole day. If
the traveller is going up the Nile in a
dahabeeyeh it may be made with less
trouble from his boat.
Those who have the time may give
a day to an excursion to the Barrage,
and another day to an excursion to the
Quarries of Toora and Masárah and the
Baths of Helwán. And there are
many other mosques, such as those of
Kalaoon, El-Azhar, Hassaneyn, Ghóree,
Moaiyud, &c., well worth giving a
morning or afternoon to, besides old
Coptic churches and dervish monasteries.
In Three Days.—To those who are
very much pressed for time, the following method of employing three
days may be recommended:—
1st Day (Morn.). Mosques, bazaars,
&c., 3 hours or more. (Aft.) Old Cairo
and the Nilometer,
2nd Day (Morn.). Pyramids, starting
very early, 5 to 6 hours. (Aft.)
Heliopolis and the Virgin's Tree.
3rd Day (Morn.). Old Gates, Arab
Museum and Tombs of Khalifs, (Aft.)
Mosque of Sultan Hassan and the
Citadel. If lunch is taken out to avoid
returning to the hotel, the Mokattam
Hills could also be visited.
All who can afford a fourth day
should devote it to the excursion to
Sakkárah.

DESCRIPTION OF CAIRO.

PAGE
a. History and Topography 161
b. Oriental Character of the Town 163
c. Climate 165
d. Population 165
e. Local Government 165
f. Manufactures and Industry 166
g. Gates, Walls 167
h. Canals, Lakes 168
i. Streets, Public Places 169
j. Citadel 170
k. Mosques 172
l. Churches 186
m. Tombs, Cemeteries 189
n. Sebeels or Public Fountains 193
o. Baths 194
p. Bazaars 194
q. Palaces 196
r. Schools, Libraries 196
s. Museum of Egyptian Antiquities 197
t. Museum of Arabic Antiquities 202
u. Hospitals, Benevolent Societies 203
v. Theatres, Amusements 203
w. Colleges or Monasteries of Dervishes 203
x. Religious Festivals 207
a. HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY.
History.Masr el-Káherah, called
by the natives Masr, and by Europeans
Cairo, is situated in latitude 30° 6′ and
longitude 31° 26', on the right or E.
bank of the Nile, in the sloping plain
lying between that river and a projecting
angle of the Mokattam Hills. It
was founded by Gowher, a general of
El Moëz, or Aboo Tummeem, the first
of the Fowátem or Fatemite dynasty
who ruled in Egypt. He was sent in
the year 358 of the Hégira, A.D. 969,
with a powerful army from Kayrawan
(in the modern Regency of Tunis),
the capital of the Fowátem, to invade
Egypt: and having succeeded in conquering
the country, he built a fortress,
under the name of Masr el-Káherah.
The epithet Káherah was given it
from the fact of the planet Mars, called
by the Arabs Káher, “the Victorious,”
being in the ascendant on the night of
the foundation of the city. It is probable
that an old Egyptian town called
Loui-Tkeshrómi had formerly occupied
some part of the site chosen, though
the exact spot is unknown. But to
understand properly the growth of
Cairo and its suburbs, we must trace
the various towns and seats of government
that have existed on the spot
from early times.
The Romans, when they occupied
Egypt, built the fortress, still existing
near Old Cairo , and known as Babylon,
which was the headquarters of one of
the legions which garrisoned the
country, and also defended the head of
the bridge of boats that led across the
Nile to Memphis, the great Egyptian
capital on the West side of the river
which was then about 1000 yards in
width. The fortress is now at a considerable
distance from the bank, but it
is possible that at the time of the
Roman occupation it was close to the
river. A town appears to have sprung
up around the fortress, but it is not
easy to say what was its extent, as the
remains of it have almost completely
disappeared. To the north of Babylon
towards Heliopolis, the sacred city of
On, which is about 10 miles distant,
were many villages along the bank of
the Nile, but it is unlikely that there
was any town of importance.
Babylon was the key of the Nile
valley, and when Amer, the Moslem
general invaded Egypt in 638 A.D. it
was the first point which offered a
serious resistance to him. The siege
lasted 7 months, so that the Arabs
formed a quasi-permanent camp round
it. After the fortress was taken, this
camp became the nucleus of a new town
called el-Fostat, where Amer established
the seat of government, and built the
mosque still called by his name. (See
p. 224.) The remains of el-Fostat can
yet be seen between Old Cairo and the
Aqueduct.
When the Abbaside Khalifate was

established in Egypt, a suburb of el-Fostat
called el-Askar was founded on
the north of the town, and after a time
the seat of government was moved to
it, and remained there until the Sultan
Ahmed ebn Tooloon built the city of
Kataéea, which in turn superseded el-Askar.
At this period the whole of
the ground from the Mosque of Tooloon
to Babylon would appear to have been
inhabited and known as Masr.
In A.D. 969 Egypt was conquered by
the Fatemite Khalif el-Moëz, who
transferred the centre of the government
from Tunis to Masr, and built a
fortress near the latter town to contain
the palace, government offices and
quarters for the garrison. The site
which was selected by Gowher, the
general of the Khalif's army, was that
part of the present city of Cairo which
lies between the Bab en-Nasr on the
north, and the Bab ez-Zoweyleh on the
south, the existing walls on the east
and the old canal on the west. The
walls still remain on the north and
east sides, but have been rebuilt several
times since originally constructed by
Gowher. The fortress was called Masr
el-Káherah, to distinguish it from the
old town of Masr, to which it bore the
same relation as the Citadel of Saladin
did to the Cairo of his time. It was
not for many years that it became a
part of the town proper. The gates of
Masr el-Káherah were strictly guarded,
and even ambassadors from foreign
countries were admitted with great
precaution.
After the foundation of Masr el-Káherah,
the ground between it and
Fostat was gradually built over, and
the importance of the old town began
to decline. A great fire, which lasted
fifty days, destroyed a large part of
Fostat in A.D. 1168, and this appears
to have given the death-blow to the
old capital. In A.D. 1171, the Fatemite
dynasty came to an end with the death
of El Aadud, the last Khalif of the
race, and one of his generals, Yoosef
Salah ed Deen, better known to us as
Saladin, made himself Sultan of Egypt.
Knowing the weak points of Gowher's
fortress, he constructed the citadel on
the heights to the south-east of the
town, and made it the seat of government.
Masr el-Káherah was then
absorbed into the rest of the town, and
ceased to be the royal residence. Saladin
rebuilt the walls, and extended the
east wall so as to join that of the
citadel. He also embellished the city
with many new buildings.
This account will explain the position
of the Bab ez-Zoweyleh, which
now stands in the middle of the town.
During the reigns of the Memlook
Sultans the city was enlarged and
beautified. It became the most remarkable
Arab capital in the East.
Cairo was the residence of the
Khalifs, and capital of the dominions,
until the overthrow of the Memlook
sovereignty in Egypt by Sultan Selim
in 1517, and the abolition of the
nominal Abbaside Khalifate. It then
became the capital of the Turkish province
of Egypt, and continued so until
its capture by the French after the socalled
battle of the Pyramids in 1798.
Their occupation lasted three years,
when the city was again taken by the
Turks and English in 1801. In 1811
Mohamed Ali, by his massacre of the
Memlooks in the citadel, attained
almost absolute power in Egypt, and
Cairo became once more the capital
of a virtually independent kingdom.
Many improvements in the state of the
city were made in his reign, but the
greatest changes have taken place
since the accession of the Khedive
Ismail in 1863. New streets were
opened through the centre of the city,
new quarters laid out and designed,
and the general aspect in many parts
completely changed.
In 1879 the present Khedive Tewfik
succeeded his father Ismail, and for the
next few years the improvements went
on more slowly, but the occupation of
Egypt by the English has given a
fresh impetus to building, and new
houses are rapidly springing up, especially
in the west of the town, between
it and the Nile. These houses are not
only occupied by Europeans, but the
richer natives are also moving into
new quarters, and abandoning their
houses in Cairo proper for the fresher
air of the Ismaileeyeh quarter.
Topography.—In shape, Cairo is an
irregular oblong, about 3 m. in length
and 2 m. in breadth, and occupies an
area of more than 3 sq. m. exclusive of
the new quarter of Ismaileeyeh.
The whole of the Oriental part of
the city is divided into quarters, which
used to be separated from each other
by gates. These gates were closed at
night, and guarded by watchmen, who
allowed no one to pass without examination.
Few of these gates are now
in existence. The majority of these
quarters consist of dwelling-houses,
and are known by a name taken from
some public building, from some individual
to whom the property once
belonged, or from some class of persons
who live there: as the Hart es-Suggaeen,
“Quarter of the Water-car-riers;
“the Hart en-Nassára, or Hart
el-Kobt
, “the Christian” or “Copt
quarter;” the Hart el-Yahóod,” Jews'
quarter;” the Hart el-Frang, “Frank
quarter; “and the like.
The Copt quarter occupies one side
of the Esbekeeyeh. It is built much
on the same principle as the rest of
the town; but some of the houses are
very comfortably fitted up, and present
a better appearance than is indicated
by their exterior.
The Jews' quarter consists of narrow
dirty streets or lanes, while many
of the houses of the two opposite sides
actually touch each other at the upper
stories. The principal reason of their
being made so narrow was to afford
protection in case of the quarter being
attacked, and to make both the streets
and houses cooler in summer.
The old Frank quarter is usually
known to Europeans by the name of
the Mooskee, and is so called from one
Izz-ed-deen Moosk, a relation of Saláhed-deen
(Saladin), who built the bridge
of Kantarat el-Mooskee, whence the
whole of the street in its vicinity gradually
took the name. It was here
that the first Franks who opened shops
in Cairo were permitted to reside, in
the reign of Saladin.
Cairo has a population of 374,838, of
whom about 21,000 are Europeans of
different nationalities, Greeks predominating.
The town is administered
by a Governor, and it is divided for
municipal purposes into 12 districts,
which are—
  • Abdeen.
  • Bab esh Shareeyeh.
  • Boolak.
  • Darb el-Ahmar.
  • Esbekeeyeh.
  • Gemeleeyeh
  • Keyssoun.
  • Khaleefeh.
  • Masr el-Attika,
  • Saidna Zaynab,
  • Shoobra
  • Waily
There is an excellent police, of which
the superior officers are English.
b. ORIENTAL CHARACTER OF THE
TOWN.
The narrowness of the streets of
Cairo, and their great irregularity, may
strike an European as imperfections in
a large city; but their Oriental character
fully compensates for this objection,
and of all Eastern towns none is
so interesting in this respect as the
Egyptian capital. Nor is this character
confined to the bazaars, to the
mosques, or to the peculiarities of the
exterior of the buildings.
The Interiors of the Private Houses are of the same original Arab style,
and no one can visit the hareems and
courts of the private dwellings of the
Cairenes without recalling the impressions
he received on reading the
“Arabian Nights.” The disposition
of the different parts of the interior of
the house is, to an European eye, singularly
confused, without the appearance
of plan or systematic arrangement;
but the picturesque style of the
courts, the inlaid marble, the open
fonts, the mandarah with a façade of
two arches supported on a single
column, the elaborate fretwork of wood
forming the mushrebeeyeh, or projecting
window, and the principal room
with its lantern (a sort of covered
impluvium), its divans, deep windowseats,
and stained-glass windows, have
a pleasing effect, and remind us of
the descriptions of old Saracenic mansions.
The arrangements of an Arab
House are well described in Poole's
“Saracenic Art in Egypt.” The traveller
who wishes to see a good specimen
of an old Arab house should get
an introduction (it may sometimes be
obtained at the Consulate) to view the

House of Sheykh Ahmed es-Sadat ,
situated in a street leading from the
Darb el-Gammameez, near the site of
the Birket-el-Feel. The Sheykh is
most obliging in granting permission
to visit it. In the House of the Sheykh
el-Mooftee
, in the Bab el-Khalk, near
the Hôtel du Nil, there are several
rooms on the ground-floor, which,
though now totally neglected, are still
interesting.
The new streets and other improvements
play sad havoc with the old
buildings of Cairo, and many an interior
has been destroyed without any
care being taken to preserve the beautiful
wood-work and encaustic tiles
which are especially remarkable, the
latter for their pattern and colours, and
the former for its delicacy of carving
and inlaying. Notwithstanding Western
encroachments, however, Cairo
has not quite lost its thoroughly
Oriental character, and the stranger, if
he wishes it, may still, as Miss Martineau
said more than 20 years ago,
“surrender himself to the most wonderful
and romantic dream that can ever
meet his waking senses.”
The following quaint description
from ‘Nile Notes of a Howadji,’ by
G. W. Curtis, is worth quoting:—
“To our new eyes everything was
picturesque. Vainly the hard road was
crowded with Moslem artisans, home
returning from their work. To the
mere Moslem observer, they were carpenters,
masons, labourers, and tradesmen
of all kinds. We passed many a
meditating Cairene, to whom there was
nothing but the monotony of an old
story in that evening and in that road.
But we saw all the pageantry of
Oriental romance quietly donkeying
into Cairo.
“I saw Fadladeen with a gorgeous
turban, and a long lash. His chibouque,
bound with coloured silk and
gold threads, was borne behind him by
a black slave. Fat and fuming was
Fadladeen as of old; and though Ferrmoaz
was not by, it was clear to see in
the languid droop of his eye that
choice Arabian verses were sung by the
twilight in his mind.
“Yet was Venus still the evening
star; for behind him, closely veiled,
came Lalla Rookh. She was wrapped
in a vast black silken bag, that bulged
like a balloon over her donkey. But
a star-suffused evening cloud was that
bulky blackness, as her twin eyes shone
forth liquidly lustrous.
“Abou Hassan sat by the city gate,
and I saw Haroun Alraschid quietly
come up in that disguise of a Mosul
merchant. I could not but wink at
Abou, for I knew him so long ago in
the ‘Arabian Nights.’ But he rather
stared than saluted, as friends may in
a masquerade. There was Sinbad the
Porter, too, hurrying to Sinbad the
Sailor. I turned and watched his form
fade in the twilight, yet I doubt if he
reached Bagdad in time for the Eighth
History.
“Scarce had he passed when a long
string of donkeys ambled by, bearing
each one of the inflated balloons. It
was a hareem taking the evening air.
A large eunuch was the captain, and
rode before. The ladies came gaily
after, in single file, chatting together;
and although Araby's daughters are
still ‘born to blush unseen,’ they looked
earnestly upon the staring strangers.
Did those strangers long to behold
that hidden beauty? Could they help
it, if all the softness and sweetness
of hidden faces radiated from melting
eyes?
“Then came Sakkas, men with hogskins
slung over their backs, full of
water. I remembered the land and
the time of putting wine into old
bottles, and was shoved back beyond
glass. Pedlars—swarthy fatalists, in
lovely lengths of robe and turban—
cried their wares. To our Frank ears
it was nothing but Babel jargon. Yet
had erudite Mr. Lane accompanied us
—Mr. Lane, the Eastern Englishman,
who has given us so many golden
glimpses into the silence and mystery
of Oriental life, like a good genius
revealing to ardent lovers the very
hallowed heart of the hareem—we
should have understood those cries.
“We should have heard, ‘Sycamore
figs—O grapes!’ meaning that said
figs were offered, and the sweetness
of sound that ‘grapes’ hath was only

bait for the attention; or, ‘Odours of
Paradise, O flowers of the henna!’
causing Moslem maidens to tingle to
their very nails' ends; or, indeed, these
pedlar poets, vending water-melons,
sang, ‘Consoler of the embarrassed, O
Pips!’ Were they not poets there,
these pedlars, and full of all Oriental
extravagance? For the sweet association
of poetic names shed silvery sheen
over the actual article offered. The
unwary philosopher might fancy that
he was buying comfort in a green
water-melon, and the pietist dream of
mementoes of heaven in the mere
earthly vanity of henna. But the
philanthropic merchant of sour limes
cries, ‘God made them light—limes’
meaning not the fruit, nor the stomach
of the purchaser, but his purse. Will
they never have done with hieroglyphics
and sphinxes, these Egyptians?
Here a man, rose-embowered, chants,
'The rose is a thorn, from the sweat of
the prophet it bloomed!' meaning
simply, ‘Fresh roses.’
“These are masquerade manners,
but they are pleasant. The maiden
buys not henna only, but a thought of
heaven; the poet not water-melons
only, but a dream of consolation which
truly will he need.”
c. CLIMATE.
Nothing can be pleasanter nor more
salubrious than the climate of Cairo
during the winter months; the days
are warm and bright, and the nights are
cool and refreshing. The thermometer
seldom falls lower than 40° Fahr., or
rises above 70° Fahr. in the shade during
the months of December, January,
and February, except during a Khamseen
wind. The air is dry, pure, and
exhilarating: occasionally there is a
slight damp fog in the evening and
early morning, but it soon passes off.
In the spring months, though the heat
of the sun increases considerably
during the day, the nights are still
comparatively cool. Even in the
hottest part of the summer, except
when a Khamseen wind is blowing,
the early mornings are fresh and pleasant,
and after the Nile has well begun
to rise in July, the increasing water
and north winds help to cool the air;
but damp exhalations from the river
are prevalent during the months of
September, October, and November,
especially after the inundation has
begun to subside. Rain seldom falls,
though heavy showers are more frequent
than they used to be. The
new part of the Esbekeeyeh quarter,
and the Abbasseeyeh road, are the
healthiest places for a residence. The
neighbourhood of the Shoobra Road,
being under water during the inundation,
is damp and unhealthy in the
autumn and early winter.
d. POPULATION.
At the time of the French expedition
in 1797, the population of Cairo
was estimated at 260,000. Since then
it has been gradually increasing, and
according to the last returns it now
amounts, including the suburbs of
Boolak and Old Cairo , to 374,838,
which may be roughly divided thus:—
Native Egyptians 326,432
Turks 10,556
Sudaniens 15,438
Bedaween 772
Europeans 21,650
The bonâ fide inhabitant of Cairo
is very proud of the appellation of
“Masree,” or Cairene, by which he is
always distinguished among his fellows,
and considers himself immensely superior
to his brethren of the Delta and
Saeed; and indeed there are marked
mental and physical differences between
them. The town-bred Cairene is much
quicker and more intelligent than his
country cousin, and he may generally
be distinguished by certain outward
signs, such as a peculiar tint of tawny
complexion, large mouth, with thick
well-formed lips, fat broad nose, enormous
legs, and a general look of sturdiness.
e. LOCAL GOVERNMENT.
Gairo, like Alexandria, forms a government
distinct from the province
in which it is situated. It has its own

governor, who is assisted by a deputy.
Police cases are decided by the governor
or his deputy, or prefect of police,
whose office is at the Zaptih, near the
Boulevard Abdul Aziz. The same rule
in criminal cases holds good here as at
Alexandria: if the defendant is a
foreigner, he must be taken before his
own consular court. Civil cases between
natives and foreigners, and foreigners
of different nationalities, are
decided by the new mixed tribunals.
The newly-established native tribunals
decide civil cases between
natives, with the exception of questions
which must be referred to the religious
law, based on the Koran. These are
settled at the Mahkemeh, or Kadi's
court, which has its headquarters in
Cairo. This court occupies a portion of
the old palace of the Sultans, which
succeeded to one of the Kasrayn or
“two palaces,” built by Gowher, the
founder of Cairo; and close to it is a
fine vaulted chamber, one part of the
abode of Saladin. This last, as well
as its adjoining companion, is now a
ruin, and occupied by mills; its large
pointed arches have lost all their ornaments
except the Arabic inscriptions at
the projection of their horseshoe base;
and the devices of its once richlygilded
ceiling can scarcely be distinguished.
At the end is a lofty mehráb,
or arabesque niche for prayer, similar
to those in the mosques, which are
sometimes admitted into large houses for
the same purpose. This chamber has
now been destroyed, or enclosed, and
can no longer be seen. The Kadi is
appointed by the Sultan, and is sent
from Constantinople.
Every province and governorat has
its Kadi's court, and in the parts of
Egypt where the native tribunals have
not yet been established, these courts
occupy to some extent their old position.
The whole question of native
law must be regarded as being at present
in a transition state. The native
tribunals have not been established
sufficiently long to enable an opinion
to be formed as to their success.
Every quarter in the metropolis has
its sheykh, whose permission must be
obtained for living in that quarter,
and who maintains order amongst its
inhabitants.
All the various trades and manufactures
have their respective sheykhs,
to whom all disputes in connection
with their trades are referred. And
the different classes of servants are
also under the authority of particular
sheykhs, who are responsible for the
good conduct of those they recommend.
An octroi duty is collected on all
articles of consumption entering Cairo,
which realizes about 180,000l. per
annum. This is paid into the Central
Treasury, and not reserved for municipal
purposes.
f. MANUFACTURES AND INDUSTRY.
The chief native manufactures of
Cairo are gold and silver jewellery,
silk and cotton stuffs, embroidery,
native saddles, &c. Many European
industries have lately been introduced.
A return published in 1871 gives the
number of people employed in different
recognised occupations at 150,066, and
divides them into 64 different categories.
The most numerous corporation
are the porters, 14,037; then come
the vendors of eatables, 11,793; glaziers,
10,000; boatmen of the Nile,
9446; donkey and camel drivers, 7112;
and so on, including, among others,
3876 water-carriers; 3297 coffee-house
keepers; 3114 barbers; 2630 goldsmiths;
1160 chicken rearers; 1042
hotel keepers; 834 potters; 288 coffee
and tobacco cutters, down to 35 plumbers.
This list is probably more curious
than accurate, but it will serve to give
some idea of the principal occupations
followed. The proportions of some
trades have altered. For example, the
number of Sakkah, or water-carriers,
has greatly diminished since the Water
Company has laid its pipes all over
Cairo.
The Sakkah was formerly one of the
most familiar figures in the streets, as
he carried his skins up from the Nile
either on his own back, or, if he was
well to do, on the useful donkey. The
Water Company, which has its offices
near Shepheard's Hotel, now pumps up
the water from the Nile to a reservoir

placed on some high ground between
Cairo and Abbasseeyeh, whence it is led
over the town.
A variation of the sakkah proper are
the sakkah sherbeh and the hemalee,
who supply passengers with water in
the streets, the former pouring the
water into a brass cup from a skin
with a brass spout, the latter having
a huge porous earthenware vessel, with
a sprig of orange stuck in its mouth.
There is also the sherbetlee, who sells
an infusion of raisins, or liquorice, or
some other sweet substance. A favourite
occupation at Cairo is that of a
beggar. Very little food and raiment
are necessary in this climate, and starvation
is a thing almost unheard of.
Blind people, and those on whom
nature has bestowed some disfigurement
of person, are certain of gaining
a subsistence by begging.
g. GATES, WALLS.
The original walls of Cairoi.e. of
Gowher's city Káherah (10th century)
—were, as already stated, of brick.
In the reign of the Khalif Mustansir
(A.D. 1036-1094) these walls were
pulled down, and the circuit of the city
slightly increased. The three principal
gates were then constructed by
three Greek brothers, and a stone wall
of defence built, under the direction of
Bedr-el-Gemálee. In the reign of
Saláh-ed-deen (A.D. 1171-1193) these
walls were replaced (in parts, we may
presume only completed) by a new
wall of stone, which connected Káherah
with the citadel. According to
the project of Saláh-ed-deen, this wall
of fortification was to have included
Fostat, but the plan was not carried
out.
Excursion round the Walls.—The
Walls of Cairo may be followed on
the E. and N. sides; and a good
excursion, which should by no means
be overlooked by travellers, may thus
be made on donkey or on foot. Starting
from the Bab el- Wizeer below the
Citadel, a pathway skirts the exterior
of the walls, which are closely pressed
by the extensive rubbish heaps. The
wall, with its numerous bastions, is
picturesque and imposing. A little
before reaching the entrance to the
Mooskee, an interesting old gateway,
now closed up, will be observed. It
is called Bab Darb el-Maruk. As you
pass on to the Bab el-Ghoreib and the
point where the prolongation of the
Mooskee terminates, the wall becomes
completely buried for some distance
but it emerges again, and should be
followed to its N.E. extremity. Here,
at the point where it makes a turn
towards the Bab en-Nasr, is a tower
of peculiar construction, upon which
the builders lavished their utmost
ingenuity. It should be carefully inspected.
It goes by the name of the
Boorg ez-Zíffir” (Tower of Filth”).
This name is scarcely intelligible, and
it is possible that the proper name of
the tower should be “Boorg ez-Zafar
(“Tower of Victory”). There are no
inscriptions visible except the word
“Allah” (“God”), and the name of
the builder of this curious work is not
known. It is partly choked with sand
and rubbish, but can still be entered by
its slanting vaulted passage. This
leads down to an octagonal chamber
containing 8 well-constructed niches
(including that which is prolonged
to form the entrance passage). It is
surmounted by a carefully-built dome,
round which wind three separate passages.
Various apertures for the admission
of air, or communication with
the outer passages, are pierced in the
walls. The object of this construction
must be left to conjecture. It may
probably have served originally as the
quarter of the commanding officer, and
might have also been used for a prison
or temporary dungeon. Numerous
quaint stories are associated with the
place, which has acquired a bad reputation
as being the resort of thieves and
afreets. Several other towers and
chambers constructed in the interior of
the wall to the S. and W. of the Boorg
ez-Ztffir are worthy of careful inspection.
Continuing to follow the walls,
we arrive at the principal gates.
The Bab en-Nasr (“Gate of Aid to
Victory”), which stands at the N.E. of

the mosque of El-Hákim, is an imposing
structure. Two massive square
owers flank the gateway. Above the
exterior entrance, cut in Kufic characters
upon a long slab, is the following
Fatemite inscription:—”
“In the name of God, the Compassionate,
the Merciful: the One, and
without equal There is no deity hut
God. Mohammed is the Apostle of
God. Ali is the Vicar of God.”
Above the arch are mouldings: and
shields, of both normal and round shape,
are sculptured in relief upon the walls
of the towers; which are also adorned
with a cornice and a frieze bearing a
long Kufic inscription, stating that the
gate and walls that surround El-Káherah
were erected by the Khalif
El-Mustansir in the year 480 of the
Hegira, A.D. 1087. The original Bab
en-Nasr stood on the S. of the Mosque
of Hakim, or rather of the place where
the mosque was afterwards built.
There is an inscription inside the
gate of about the date A.D. 1382 stating
that a tax of five coins (nature not
stated) was to be levied on every camel
entering the gate.
A winding staircase in the E. tower
of the Bab en-Nasr gives admission to
the interior, to the terraces of the
towers, and to the walls, which may
now be traversed as far as the Bab el-Fotooh.
At the time of the French
occupation this part of the wall was
utilized for purposes of defence, and
the names given to the different towers
(Forts Corbin, Julien, Milhaud, Vaille,
Lescale, Perault, and Janot) may be
seen cut in the stone. The work of
the French may be easily distinguished
from that of earlier date
The Bab el-Fotooh (“Gate of Conquests”),
which stands to the N.W. of
the mosque of El-Hákim, is also a
handsome monument of the 11th century
A.D. The entrance on the N. or
exterior side is flanked by solid halfround
towers. The mouldings, and
ornamentation of the arch above the
entrance and of the side niches, are rich
and well executed. The vaulting of
the gateway, and all the details of the
construction, are remarkable. There
is no Kufic inscription as on the other
gates.
The walls can also be traversed from
the Bab el-Fotooh to the Bab esh
Shareeyeh, by those desirous of making
a more complete examination. The
door which gives access to them from
the Bab el-Fotooh is usually closed, but
may generally be opened if required.
The walls can also be followed from
below; but as they now traverse a
thickly-populated quarter, the traveller
must be his own guide in penetrating
the narrow lanes that approach nearest
to them.
The only other gate worthy of mention is
The Bab ez-Zuweyleh (so named after
an Arab tribe). This was the S. gate
of Cairo, but is now in the heart of the
city, between the Soolcereeyeh and the
great Shoe-bazaar. Its massive towers,
surmounted by the elegant minarets of
the adjacent mosque of Moaiyud, make
it a conspicuous and picturesque object.
It was the most important gate in the
times of the Fatemites, as it formed
the entrance from Masr to the Palace
of the Khalif. This gate generally
goes by the name of the Bab el-Mutawélee,
as being the supposed resort of
the “Kutb el-Mutawélee” (see Lane's
Mod. Eg.). On the great wooden ironbound
door, always folded against the
E. gateway, will be noticed innumerable
iron nails, as well as teeth, shreds
of clothes, hair, and little votive offerings
of dust from Medina, placed there
by sick folk, &c.
Of the old Fatemite fortress Káherah,
and of the walls of Saláh ed-deen,
these are the portions that remain. Of
the walls on the S. and W. sides no
traces remain. The names of a few of
the principal gates—such as the Bab
el-Khalk
, the Bab el-Look, Bab el-Bahr,
Bab el-Hadeed
, &c.—alone remain
to show where once they passed.
h. CANALS, LAKES.
The narrow ditch which, beginning
at old Cairo , passes through the centre
of the city, and thence continues on to
Heliopolis, is called emphatically El

Khaleeg
, “The Canal;” and it is the
cutting of this which is attended with
so much ceremony in the month of
August, and gives the signal for the
opening of the other canals in Egypt.
(See p. 208.) It is the successor of the
so-called Amnis Trajanus, which joined
at some unknown spot the great canal
from Zagazig, then on the Pelusiac
branch of the Nile, to Suez. It has
long since ceased to do more than convey
water to the city, and act as an
open drain. There have been several
projects recently made for improving
it According to one of these, it was
proposed to roof it in, and form a new
street, but up to the present nothing
has been done.
A broad navigable canal, called the
Ismaileeyeh Canal, starts from Boolak
near Kasr en-Neel, and joins the
modern fresh-water canal from Zagazig
to Suez. It passes near the railway
station, the road from which into
the town crosses it over a neat bridge;
and there is a similar bridge over it on
the road to Boolak.
Most of the small lakes which formerly
existed in the interior of Cairo
at the period of the inundation have
been filled up.
i. STREETS, PUBLIC PLACES.
In all the quarters of the interior of
the city the streets are very narrow;
and in consequence of the Cairene mode
of building houses, each story projecting
beyond that immediately below it,
two persons may almost shake hands
across the street from the upper windows.
This narrowness of the streets
is common to many towns in hot
climates, having for its object greater
coolness; and so small a portion of
blue sky is sometimes seen between the
projecting meshrebeeyehs, or the approaching
tops of the houses, that they
might give a very suitable answer to
the lines in Virgil:—
“Die quibus in terris, et eris mihi magnus
Apollo,
Tres pateat cœll spatium non amplius
ulnas.”
To indicate by name any of these
streets would be useless, but the principal
and most frequented ones are in
the neighbourhood of the different
bazaars, through which they in most
cases pass. The names of many of them
have been recently put up at the
corners, written in both Arabic and
English characters. As many of the
names are very old, the study of them
for persons who care for antiquarian
research is of considerable interest.
Before the accession of the Khedive
Ismail, the only tolerably broad street
in Cairo was the Mooskee, running
from the S.E. corner of the Esbekeeyeh
to the street leading from the Ghoreeyeh
to the Khán Khaléel. In this street
are some of the principal European
shops, and in the upper part of it are
some good Syrian and Levantine shops.
It is now prolonged to the Bab el-Ghoreib,
at the extreme eastern limit
of the city
Many new broad streets have been
opened in the neighbourhood of the
Esbekeeyeh, and in all of these the
names are distinctly written up in Arabic
and English letters. The Egyptian
terms “Sharia,” “street;” “Darb,”
“a narrower street;” “Meidan,”
“place;” “Haret,” “quarter;” have
been used instead of European terms,
such as boulevard, street, &c. This is
an improvement, as formerly one
street was frequently called by different
names.
The Esbekeeyeh is the largest and
the best known public garden in Cairo.
Before Mohamed Ali's time it used to
be one large sheet of water during the
inundation. He cut a canal round it in
order to keep the water from the centre,
and laid it out as a garden, with trees
planted on the bank of the canal. In
Said Pasha's time it became the
favourite locale of low European coffeeshops
and beer-houses. In 1867 the
Khedive Ismail began transforming it
into its present state. The trees were
cut down, and the whole of the area
filled up to the level of the surrounding
ground: a part was then cut up into
building-plots, and the remainder enclosed
within high iron railings, and,
after many changes of plan, finally laid
out as a sort of public garden, after the

Continental fashion, with cafés, al fresco
theatres, grottoes, ornamental water,
&c. The gardens are well kept, and
the trees have grown quickly and give
good shade. It is a very favourite place
of resort, especially when an English
or Egyptian military band performs in
the evening. Although the cost of
making the garden was considerable,
the inhabitants and visitors to Cairo
owe a debt of gratitude to Ismail Pasha
for forming this tasteful pleasure
ground.
Most of the principal hotels are near
the Esbekeeyeh gardens. The New
Hotel is on the W. side, the Hôtel
d'Angleterre on the N., and the Hôtel
d'Orient at the N.E. corner. Shepheard's
Hotel is also close at hand. The Opera
House, International Tribunals, and
Post Office are also in the streets overlooking
the gardens, which may be
regarded as the centre of European
Cairo.
The streets surrounding the gardens
and in the adjoining Ismailia quarter
are broad and well laid out, with trees
planted along each footpath, so that even
in the heat of summer it is possible to
walk for considerable distances without
being incommoded by the sun. The
private gardens in this quarter are well
planted, and the houses are good.
The Square Abdeen is in front of
the Khedive's Palace, about half a mile
from the Esbekeeyeh gardens. Military
reviews sometimes take place there.
The Rumeyleh is a large open space
at the foot of the Citadel, lying between
it and the Mosque of Sultan Hassan.
It has been cleared of the hovels that
formerly surrounded it, and turned into
a public square.
The long open space adjoining it on
the S., which formerly went by the
name of the Kará Meydán, is now
called the Mensheeyeh.
A long dusty space, which lies a
little to the W. of the latter, and which
is generally known by the name of
Tâht es-Soor (Below the Wall), is used
as a market-place for horses, donkeys,
camels, &c.
j. CITADEL.
The Citadel (El-Káláh) was built by
Saladin, in 1166, of stone brought from
small pyramids at Geezeh, and formed
part of his general plan for strengthening
the town, and protecting it from
assault; but it can hardly be said to
have been well chosen for this object,
as it is completely commanded by
Gebel Mokattam; and it was by erecting
a battery in the fort on the projecting
point called Gebel el-Jooshee,
immediately behind it, that Mohamed
Ali compelled the surrender of the
citadel, then in the possession of Khoorshid
Pasha. According to the Arab
historian of the day, however, Saladin
is said to have fixed upon the spot
because it was found that meat kept
fresh there twice as long as anywhere
else in Cairo. The city side is well
defended by the natural abruptness of
the rocks, and is also strongly armed
and regularly fortified. A good carriage-road
leads up from the open
square called Er Rumeyleh to the
principal outer entrance-gate, and continues
on through another gate into
the interior of the citadel. Another
way in is by the Bab el-Azab, a fine
massive gateway flanked by two enormous
towers. It was in the narrow
and tortuous lane leading from this
gate that the massacre of the Memlooks
took place by order of Mohamed Ali,
on the 1st of March, 1811. The Memlooks
were invited to a reception by
Mohamed Ali in the palace of the
citadel. When the reception was
over, they were asked to take part
in a procession which was to pass
through Cairo. The Memlooks were
placed between the Pasha's regular
troops, and when they were in the
narrow rocky lane, the Bab el-Azab
was shut, and the troops fell upon them.
Fire was also opened upon them from
the citadel above, and notwithstanding
a brave resistance, they were all killed,
460 in number. One Memlook only
escaped. He had been late in reaching
the citadel, and arrived at the foot of
the Bab el-Azab just as it was shutting.
Hearing the fight above, he put spurs
to his horse and escaped into Syria. It

is generally believed that he got away
by jumping from the wall of the citadel,
but this appears to be a legend without
foundation.
The Citadel is in itself a small
town, and contains many objects worth
seeing.
The Palace built by Mohamed Ali,
which has taken the place of the old
palace of Saladin, contains some very
handsome rooms, especially a bath-room
all of alabaster. The view from some
of the rooms is very fine. This palace
is now occupied by the English as
officers' quarters, while the great palace
in the Court of the Janissaries is the
central military hospital. It is well
worth a visit.
The old Palace of Saladin, commonly
called Joseph's Hall, was pulled
down in 1829 to make room for the
new Mosque of Mohamed Ali. The
most remarkable object in it was a vast
hall supported on thirty-two columns
of rose granite taken from ancient
temples; but these columns were
removed when the building was pulled
down.
The Old Mosque in the centre of the
citadel was built by the Sultan Mohamed
Nasr ebn Kalaoon, and was
for many years the royal mosque of
Cairo. It has ceased to be used as a
mosque for a considerable time, and
was turned into a prison. Until recently
it was used as a military storehouse,
and was not shown to visitors; but
lately the stores have been removed by
Major Watson, R.E., the partition walls
cleared away, and the beautiful colonnades
of the mosque again exposed to
view. The key is usually with the
door-keeper of the citadel. The historian
El-Makrizi says of this mosque:
“The mosque, situated in the citadel of
the mountain, was erected by the King
Nasr Mohamed ebn Kalaoon in the year
718 of the Hegira. He caused a magnificent
dome to be placed upon the summit
of it. The mosque was endowed
with large funds, and became one of the
richest and most magnificent mosques
in Egypt.” The mosque is nearly square,
measuring 206 ft. from N. to S., and
186 ft. from E. to W. The great dome,
which has fallen in, was supported on
ten great granite columns. There are
four rows of columns on the E. side, and
two on each of the other sides. A row
of clerestory windows runs all round,
which were filled with stained glass,
but this has almost completely disappeared.
The minarets are of quaint
form, the upper portions being coated
with green tiles.
The Mosque of Mohamed Ali was
commenced by that prince, but not
finished till after his death. It is built
after the type of the Constantinople
mosques, and contrasts strangely and
inharmoniously with the mosque of
Nasr.
To the W. is the outer court, which
consists of an open square, surrounded
by a single row of columns, 10 on the
N. and S., 13 on the W., and 12 on
the E. They support round arches,
with fancy capitals and dome vaults.
The whole court is paved with large
square slabs of handsome white marble.
In the centre is the hanafeeyeh for
ablution. To the W. is a tower, in
which is placed a clock presented to
Mohamed Ali by Louis Philippe. To
the E. is the principal entrance to the
mosque.
The mosque itself is surmounted by
a large dome, supported by four large
piers, and embraced by four half-domes.
Above the angles are also four smaller
domes. Below the springing of the
domes are small windows with round
arches; and these, as well as others
that are introduced at a short distance
beneath, contain coloured glass in
patchwork of large squares, and in bad
taste. Below are two sets of rectangular
windows with plain glass. On
the W. side is a wide gallery, supported
by fluted alabaster columns; and a
narrow gallery is continued at the
same level along the other walls of the
mosque, and round the piers. Another
gallery also encircles the interior of the
dome. Above the W. entrance is represented
the setting sun with long
gilded rays. The visit to the interior
should not be made too late in the
evening. The mosque is well worth
visiting on some of the great nights of
Ramadan (especially the 13th, 14th,

and 27th; see p. 214). In the S.W.
corner, behind a bronze screen, is the
Tomb of Mohamed Ali, which may
be inspected. The compartment with
lattice-work, to the S.E., was introduced
for the Sultan, in anticipation of
his visit.
There are two other mosques in the
citadel, one, the mosque of Sidi Saria
near the Eastern wall, and the other, a
very small one, close to the Bab el-Azab.
Both of these are believed to
have been built since the Turkish conquest
of Egypt.
From the platform on the S. side of
the mosque is a grand and commanding
View of the city and the surrounding
country, taking in the arsenal immediately
below,—the Rumeyleh, and
the fine mosque of Sultan Hassan, just
outside the gates of the citadel,—
the numerous minarets of Cairo,—
and, in the distance, the Pyramids,—
with the valley of the Nile, to Sakkárah
on the south, and to the point of
the Delta on the north. Miss Martineau
says: “I would entreat any
stranger to see this view first in the
evening—before sunset. I saw it
three times or more. In the morning
there was much haze in the distance,
and a tameness of colour which hurts
the eye. At noon there was no colour
at all: all colour being discharged in
the middle of the day in Egypt, except
in shady places. In the evening
the beauty is beyond description.
The vastness of the city, as it lies
stretched below, surprises every one.
It looks a perfect wilderness of flat
roofs, cupolas, minarets, and palmtops,
with an open space here and
there presenting the complete front
of a mosque, and gay groups of people,
and moving camels,—a relief to the
eye, though so diminished by distance.
The aqueduct is a most striking
feature, running off for miles. The
city of tombs was beautiful and
wonderful, its fawn - colour domes
rising against the somewhat darker
sand of the desert. The river
gleamed and wound away from the
dim south into the blue distance of
the north, the green strips of cultivation
on its banks delighting the
eye amidst the yellow sands. Even
to the west the Pyramids looked their
full height and their full distance,
which is not the case from below.
The platform of the Great Pyramid is
here seen to be a considerable hill of
itself; and the fields and causeways
which intervene between it and the
river lie as in a map, and indicate the
true distance and elevation of these
mighty monuments. The Libyan
hills, dreary as possible, close in the
view behind them, as the Mokattam
range does above and behind the
citadel.”
On the E. side of the old mosque is
Joseph's Well, so called from the other
name of Saladin (Yoosef), who, when
the site of his fortress was being
cleared, discovering a well that had
been cut by the ancients, ordered it to
be cleared of the sand that then filled
it. It is probable that the original
well was hewn in the rock by the
ancient Egyptians, like the tanks on
the hill behind the citadel, near the
Kobbet el-Hówa; and this is rendered
more probable from there having
been, as has been said, an old town
called Loui-Tkeshrómi on the site of
the modern city. The well is composed
of two parts, of which the upper
is about 160 feet deep, and the lower
130, making a total depth of 290 feet.
The descent is by a gently-sloping
staircase, and a wide landing-place
marks the division between the two
parts of the well, which, it may be
remarked, are not in a direct vertical
line. The bottom of the well is supposed
to correspond with the level of
the Nile. The well is no longer used,
as the citadel is supplied with water by
the Cairo Water Company
k. MOSQUES.
Cairo contains about 264 mosques,
and 225 zawiehs or chapels. The
word Gámah (pl. Gowáma) is derived
from the verb signifying “to assemble,”
whence also the word gooma (Friday), the day of assembly and
Mohammedan Sabbath; the other

name, musged (whence mezquita, mosquée),
being from seged, “to bow
down.”
A visit to the mosques is attended
with no difficulty; but an order is
required for some, e.g. the Azhar,
Hassaneyn, Sitteh Zeyneb, &c., and
is sometimes demanded at others.
An order can be obtained at the Administration
of the Wakf which is
available for a month, and which
admits to the greater part of the
mosques. The Wakf Administration is
opposite the Abdeen Palace. Most of
the doorkeepers are very civil. At
many of the mosques slippers are provided
to put on over the boots and prevent
the dust of the streets touching the
floor. A small fee is expected for the
use of them. In some of the mosques
the caretakers are much distressed if a
tourist thoughtlessly enters the part
devoted to prayer in his boots without
first covering them. As it is rather
difficult to find the way to some of the
mosques, we would recommend the
traveller to consult Grand Bey's large
map of Cairo, a copy of which is kept
in several of the hotels.
Many of the best mosques of Cairo
are becoming, or have become, complete
ruins, after centuries of neglect.
But, fortunately, the Egyptian Government
has realized the importance of
preserving these most interesting monuments,
and a decree was signed by the
Khedive in 1881 appointing “A Commission
for the Preservation of Monuments
of Arabic Art.” The Commission
was composed of eight Egyptian
and three European members, the latter
being Rogers Bey, the well known
Arabic scholar, Franz Bey, the architect
to the Wakf Administration, and
M. Baudry, a French architect. A
sum of 7500l. was granted for the purpose
of repairing buildings for the year
1882. The duties of the Commission
were—
1. To prepare a list of all buildings
having an artistic or historical interest.
2. To watch over the preservation
of these buildings, reporting to the
Wakf Administration what repairs were
required.
3. To prepare plans for the repairs.
4. To keep plans of all work done,
and, in the cas of buildings which are
completely in ruins, to indicate what
parts should be sent to the National
Arab Museum.
In consequence of the troubles in
1882 the Commission was able to do
little that year, but since then they
have carried on their duties, and have
done most excellent work in preserving
the interesting Arab buildings in Cairo.
Unfortunately the money at the disposal
of the Commission is very limited,
and necessary repairs have to be postponed
for want of sufficient funds.
An account of the various styles
of mosque in Cairo, together with a
description of their general architectural
features and arrangement, and of
the names of the different parts, has
been already given (see p. 91) The
visitor will do well to bear in mind the
chronological sequence of styles as
illustrated by the principal mosques.
Thus the Mosque of Amer (east wall)
dates from the middle of the 7th century;
that of Tooloon from the middle
of the 9th; of El-Hakim, from the end
of the 10th; of Kalaoon and his sons,
the end of the 13th; of Sultan Hassan,
the middle of the 14th; of Berkook,
the end of the 14th; of Kaitbey, the
end of the 15th.
“The large mosques,” says Mr.
Lane, ‘Mod. Egypt.,' “are open from
daybreak till a little after the ‘eshè,
or till nearly two hours after sunset.
The others are closed between the
hours of morning and noon prayers;
and most mosques are also closed in
rainy weather (except at the times
of prayer), lest persons who have
no shoes should enter, and dirt the
pavement and matting. Such persons
always enter by the door nearest
the tank or fountain (if there be more
than one door), that they may wash
before they pass into the place of
prayer; and generally this door alone
is left open in dirty weather. The
Mosque El-Azhar remains open all
night, with the exception of the principal
place of prayer, which is called
the ‘maksoorah,' being partitioned off
from the rest of the building.”
The Mosque of Tooloon (Gámah Ibn-Tooloon).
This mosque stands first
in point of antiquity (the Mosque of
Amer at Old Cairo of course excepted),
having been founded by Ahmed ibn
Tooloon
(see p. 61) in A.D. 879 (A.H.
265), as is attested by two Kufic inscriptions
on the walls of the court.
It is generally said to have been built
on the plan of the Mosque at Mecca,
as it existed at that time. But the
Mosque of Kairwan is more likely to
have been the model. The architect
was a Copt. It was three years in
building, and cost 72,000l. At one
time it was an university, and was endowed
with nine professorial chairs.
The centre is an extensive open court,
about 100 yards square, surrounded by
arcades; those on three of the sides
consisting of two rows of piers, 25 paces
deep, and that on the eastern end of
five rows, all supporting pointed arches.
The walls, piers, and arches are built
of brick, covered with stucco. The
angles of the piers are formed of engaged
columns. The arches are of a
very graceful shape, retaining a little of
the horseshoe form at the base of the
archivolt, as it rises from the pier;
and in a wall added afterwards to connect
the mosque with the base of the
principal minaret is one round horseshoe
arch, which is rarely met with in
Egypt. Around the mosque is an outer
wall, now encumbered in part by
houses, at each angle of which rose one
of the minarets; that on the N.W.
corner being the one used for the call
to prayer. If not remarkable for
beauty, it is a monument of the highest
interest in the history of architecture,
as it proves the existence of the pointed
arch about three hundred years before
its introduction into England.
Along the cornice, above the arches
within the colonnades, are Kufic inscriptions
on wood, many of which
have long since fallen. The style of
the letters is of the same ancient character
as in the stone tablets before
mentioned; and, indeed, were the date
not present to determine the period of
its erection, the style of the Kufic
alone would suffice to fix it within
a very few years, that character having
undergone very marked changes
in different periods of its use; and
what is singular, the oldest, which is
the most simple and least ornamented,
has a nearer resemblance to the Arabic
than that in vogue about the time
when the modern form of letters was
introduced. It is sometimes supposed
that the Neshki character of Arabic
that now in use, was derived from the
Kufic, but it is more probable that the
two characters were derived from some
older alphabet. There is an interesting
dissertation upon the subject in Isaac
Taylor's work, “The Alphabet.”
There was a very beautiful pulpit
erected by the Sultan Munsoor Hesam
ed Deen Lageen, but this has been removed
and replaced by inferior work
within the last forty years.
Some of the panels of the original
pulpit are in the South Kensington
Museum, and one of these bears the
date 696 of the Hegira, A.D. 1297.
The Minaret of the mosque which
rises from the exterior wall of circuit
has a singular appearance, owing to
the staircase winding round the outside.
Its novel form is said to have
originated in the absent habits of its
founder, and an observation of his
Wizéer. He had observed him unconsciously
rolling up a piece of parchment
into a spiral form; and having
remarked, “It was a pity his majesty
had no better employment,” the king,
in order to excuse himself, replied,
“So far from trifling, I have been
thinking that a minaret erected on
this principle would have many advantages;
I could even ride up it on
horseback: and I wish that of my
new mosque to be built of the same
form.” The cornice of this staircase
appears to have been of amber.
A fine View may be obtained from
its summit; but the staircase is now
so broken that its ascent had better
not be attempted.
The hill on which the mosque stands
was formerly called the Gebel Yéshkur,
being so named after an Arab tribe
that occupied that quarter, and who
derived that name from their chief.
Its modern name is Kalát el Kebsh (“the Citadel of the Ram”), and tradition

pretends that it marks the spot
where the ram was sacrificed by
Abraham.
Various fanciful traditions are also
connected with the mosque and its
site. Noah's ark is said to have rested
here; and it is here, says El-Makree-zee,
that Moses is believed to have conversed
with the Deity.
Near the spot, too, is the so-called
Mastabah Pharaoon” (“Pharaoh's
Seat”); a name which probably records
the existence of an ancient town
on this rocky height. Facing the
street may be seen the solid blocks
that formed the substructure of some
ancient building. The traveller should
also turn aside into the Hosh Ayoob
Bey
, from which a good view is obtained
of the rocky eminence here
escarped, and of the remains of the
brick walls of the Citadel of Tooloon,
once perched upon it. The Commission
for the Preservation of Arab
Monuments have taken this mosque in
hand; and, although they have not
funds to restore it, they are endeavouring
to prevent it falling to ruin.
The Mosque of Hákim (Gámah El-Hákim).
This, next to that of Ibn-Tooloon,
is the oldest of the mosques
that have retained their original style
of architecture from the period of
foundation. Indeed it is the earliest
mosque of Káherah, or Cairo properly
so called; the Azhar, which
is still older, not preserving its
original style. It originally stood
outside the brick walls of Gowher's
city, being afterwards enclosed within
the walls of Mustansir. It was
built by El-Hákim bi-Amr-Illah, third
of the Fatemite Khalifs (see p. 61),
and completed in the beginning of
the 11th cent. A.D. or 393 A.H., as
stated in an original Kufic inscription
above the entrance, which has
been removed. The mosque is of
the Tooloon type, and consists of a
spacious square, along the sides of
which were arcades formed by piers
supporting arches of pointed and
horseshoe form. Some portions of
these arcades remain, and along bands
above the arches run inscriptions in
Kufic character.
To the N.W. and S.W. rise two
picturesque mabkhárehs (not minarets),
always conspicuous amongst the minarets
of N. Cairo. The pylons that are
built round them (one of which can be
ascended and examined) were added at
a later date. Upon the plaster coating
of the N.W. mabkháreh, of which portions
on the E. side remain, is an
inscription in large Arabic characters.
One of the mabkhárehs was fortified
by the French during their possession
of Egypt.
The Museum of Arabic Antiquities
has been placed temporarily in the
Mosque of Hákim until a suitable
building can be provided. For description
see p. 202.
The Mosque of Sultan Hassan (Gámah es - Sultán Hassan), which
stands immediately below the Citadel,
is regarded as the finest of Cairo,
and as one of the most superb monuments
of Mohammedan architecture.
It marks the reign of Hassan,
son of En-Nasr and grandson of
Kalaoon (see p. 63), and was completed
in A.D. 1360 (A.H. 762), after a
work of three years, at a cost of 600l. a day. Its lofty and beautifully ornamented
porch, the rich cornice of its
towering walls, its minaret, and the
arches of its spacious court, must
delight every admirer of architecture.
And so impressed are the Cairenes
with its superiority over other
mosques, that they believe the king
ordered the hand of the architect to
be cut off, in order to prevent his
building any other that should vie
with it; absurdly ascribing to his
hand what was due to his head.
The same story is applied to other
fine buildings, of which they wish to
express their admiration, as to the two
minarets of Samalood and Asyoot, in
Upper Egypt.
The construction of the interior
belongs to a type with which we become
familiar from numerous examples
as characterising the period.
It consists of a hypæthral court,
with a square recess on each side,

covered by a noble and majestic arch;
that on the east being much more
spacious than the other three, and
measuring 69 ft. 5 in. in span. In
the recess is the Mecca niche (kibleh),
and the mimbar or pulpit. Behind,
and forming the same part of the
building, is the mausoleum, which
bears the date of 764 of the Hégira
(A.D. 1363), two years later than the
death of the Sultan. It is surmounted
by a dome of brick, on a basement of
stone. The pendentives of the interior,
which are of wood and plaster, are in
a most dilapidated condition. The
floor is marked, in one spot, by a dark
stain, which the servant of the mosque
carefully points out; handing down a
legend that the Sultan here slew with
his own hand his unfaithful vizer.
But the fact is, that the mosque has
frequently served as a fortres, or
refuge, in times of conflict, and during
the turbulent epochs of the Memlooks.

Plan of the Mosque of Sultan Hassan.

In one part of the walls, too, on the E.
side, may be seen a few of the balls
logded by the guns of Napoleon.
These were fired from the Citadel when
the inhabitants of Cairo attempted a
revolt against the French.
The following are the measurements
of this mosque:—
Height of walls, with cornice about 113 feet.
Projection of Cornice about 6 feet.
Open Court about 117 feet length.
about 105 feet width.
Niches on N.W. and S. about 46 feet square.
Great niche, Mecca side about 90 feet interior height.
about 90 feet depth.
about 69 feet width.
Great minaret about 280 feet high.
Mausoleum about 69 feet square.
The blocks used in the erection of
this noble edifice were brought from
the pyramids; and though we regret
that one monument should have been
defaced in order to supply materials
for another, we must confess that few

buildings could summon to their aid
greater beauty to plead an excuse.
The mosque of el-Ghóree, the Muristán,
the citadel, and other buildings,
were indebted for stone to the same
monuments, which were to them the
same convenient quarry as the Coliseum
to the palaces at Rome.
The great new mosque which is in
course of construction opposite that of
Sultan Hassan, was intended to surpass
the latter, but the genius of modern
times seems hardly equal to the undertaking.
A good deal of the money
expended upon it is said to have been
given by the mother of the late
Khedive.
The Mosque of El-Azhar (Gámah
el-Azhar
), the “splendid” mosque, was
founded by Gowher, the general of
El-Moëz, and founder of Cairo, about
A.D. 970 (see p. 61); but none of the
original building remains. It was converted
into an University by the second
Fatemite Khalif El-Azeez. Subsequently
it was enlarged by various
Sultans, especially by Ez-Záhir Baybars
(about A.D. 1270), by Kaitbey
(about A.D. 1470), by El-Ghóree, by
es-Said Mohammed Pasha (A.D. 1595),
by Ismail Bey, by Abd er-Rahman
Kekhia (A.D. 1762), and by Said Pasha
(about 1855).
Little of the exterior is visible, except
a portion of the wall on the E.
side, the W. and S. gates, decorated
in the Turkish florid style, and the
6 minarets, built at different periods,
and not remarkable. The largest was
built by el-Ghóree in the beginning of
the 16th century.
The principal features of the interior
consist of a spacious open court,
and a vast sanctuary to the E. The
Azhar is less remarkable from an
architectural point of view than from
the interest it awakens, and the scene
it presents, as the principal university
of the Mohammedan world. The
principal entrance, where outer shoes
are provided for the visitor, is called
the “Gate of the Barbers” (Bab el-Muzeyineen),
and here students will
be seen submitting their heads to the
razor. To the left of the entrance is
the mosque of Ebthahawiyeh which
has recently been restored, but the
effect is not very satisfactory. On the
right is the small mosque of Tabarset
The passage between them leads to an
open court, which presents an interesting
scene. Children of all ages
may be seen at their lessons, as well
as more advanced pupils. Others are
merely chatting, and passing their
leisure time in groups. The court is
paved and surrounded by colonnades,
with pointed arches, with slight
keel-shaped curve. The walls that
rest upon them contain windows
with pointed heads, and decorations
in stucco. These porticos are built
over and divided into apartments for
the use of natives from different parts
of Egypt, and of the entire East;
each province or country having its
separate apartment (riwák). There
are several small cisterns in the court,
but no hanafeeyeh.
The Leewán, or Sanctuary, which
affords a grateful shade after the intense
glare of the outer court, is of
vast area, and is divided by 9 ranges
of columns, 380 in number, of various
kinds, and all derived from old temples
and churches. Upon them rests
a low roof, covering the entire space.
Beneath its shade, amidst this forest
of columns, are innumerable students,
seated in circles or groups around the
various professors; taking notes, learning
by heart, or listening. There are
4 niches, for the 4 orthodox sects of
el-Islam. Round the walls to the N.
are ranged numerous boxes belonging
to the students. To the S.E., where
the colonnades are interrupted, are
the compartments for Syrians and
Darfoorians, the tomb of Abd-er-Rahmán
Kekhia, the riwák of the
Upper Egyptians (Saideeyeh), and
the exit to the S.E. gate (Bab es-Saideeyeh).
The riwák of natives
from the holy cities of Mecca and
Medina is behind the Kibleh nearest
to this corner.
To the N. of the Leewán is a
mosque, the Gâmah Gohareeyeh, which,
together with an adjoining school
(medresseh), is not to be associated
with the name of the founder of the

Azhar. It was built by one Góhar
el-Kinkabey, a Circassian who died
in A.D. 1440. Passing through it, the
visitor may inspect the little Za-wiet
el-Amián
(Chapel of the Blind),
now but little frequented, but formerly
well stocked with blind students,
who were notorious for their
fanaticism.
As has been said, this is not only
a mosque but a University, the most
celebrated in the East. The education
given at it is both primary and
secondary, and includes grammar,
algebra, arithmetic, logic, philosophy,
theology, and Mohammedan
religion and law according to the
four different rites of the Sunnees—the
Shafeite, the Malakite, the Hanafite,
and the Hambalite. The student
must qualify himself in every subject
before he receives his diploma. The
number of students generally ranges
from 10,000 to 12,000. The chief, or
President of the University is called
the “Sheykh el-Azhar,” and is elected
by the Sheykhs of the mosque, who
are extremely jealous of any interference
on the part of the Khedive or
the Government. It can easily be
understood that any attempts to modify
or alter the character of the instruction
here given—and a few such attempts
have been made of late years—meets
with the most obstinate resistance.
There is no departure, in any direction,
from the standard works that have
been from time to time adopted, and
the whole course of training consists
in learning by heart these treatises.
Any new work that finds its way to
favour can only change the form,
never the substance, of the learning
to be imparted.
An interesting account of the Azhar,
and of the nature of the studies there
pursued, as well as a list of the text
books chiefly used, in all the chief
branches of learning, may be found in
Dor Bey's ‘L'Instruction publique en
Egypte.'
The Mosque of Mohammed Bey (Gámah Mohammed Bey). After
visiting the Azhar, the traveller may
inspect that of Mohammed Bey, which
is situated to the W. of the great University,
on the opposite side of the
street. It is also used as a school.
It exhibits the influence of the
Turkish style. It was constructed in
A.D. 1774, by the traitor Mohammed
Bey Aboo Dahab
, formerly the
favoured Memlook, and afterwards
the treacherous and successful rival
of the great Ali Bey. Besides the
tomb of the founder, the mosque also
contains that of Adéeleh Hanem, wife
of Ibrahim Bey el-Elfee. Large wakfs were attached to this edifice by its
founder.
The Mosque of el-Hassaneyn (Gámah
el-Hassaneyn
), or mosque of the
two Hassans (Hoseyn and Hassan), sons
of Ali and Fatmeh, and grandsons, of
the Prophet), is situated immediately
to the E. of the Khán Khaléel. It
is commonly called by the Cairenes
after Hoseyn alone—the Gámah Seyyidna
Hoseyn.
It has lately been
rebuilt: the old dome that covers the
shrine of the martyr being the only
portion preserved.
The mosque itself is oblong in
shape; the hôsh or outer court being
to the N., enclosed by continuous
walls. The exterior is in the modern
semi-European style, in no way reproducing
the beauties of the past.
The upper windows consist of pointed
arches, with mouldings sculptured in
the modern style. The lower windows
are rectangular, and contain gilded
iron-work. A lofty minaret, with a
single balcony, rises to the S.W. The
interior presents a not unpleasing
effect, and is divided by several rows
of handsome marble columns, supporting
pointed arches. The floor is
richly carpeted. In consequence of
the double dedication, there are two
kiblehs in this mosque. A door in
the kibleh wall, veiled by a green
curtain, gives admittance to the
chamber in which are said to be
buried the head of Hoseyn and the
hand of Hassan; and to which Europeans
are not admitted without
special order. Numerous lamps are
suspended in the mosque, which perhaps
looks its best by their dim light

in the evening, when the prayer is
made.
The history of the mosque is as
follows: The Emeer el-Gioosh, while
carrying on war in Syria, found at Ascalon
a reputed burial-place of the
head of Hoseyn. He caused a fitting
mausoleum to be constructed for it in
A.D. 1098. In A.D. 1154 Sáleh ibn-Rezeek,
vizier of the Fatemite Khalif
Faiz, fearing lest the sanctity of the
place might be desecrated by Christians,
caused the head to be brought to
Cairo. Here it was washed in the
mosque of Sáleh ibn-Rezeek, which
may still be seen near the Bab Zuweyleh.
He desired that the relic
should be deposited in his own mosque,
but the Khalif objecting, it was buried
with great pomp in the portion of the
royal palace called the Kasr ez-Zu-marrud.
In A.D. 1340 the mausoleum
was burned. It was restored at different
periods; a mosque being added
at a late date and various endowments
bequeathed. The last restorations
were made by Abd-er-Rahman Kekhia,
at the end of the last century Finally,
it has now been completely rebuilt.
A Moolid is held annually in
honour of the Hassaneyn. (See p.
212.)
The Mosque of Sultan Kalaoon (Gámah es-Sultán Kalaoon), 1287
A.D. (684 A.H.). Two mosques (one
the mausoleum) of El-Melek el-Man-soor
Kalaoon (see p. 63) form part of
the once celebrated Muristán, or madhouse
and hospital built by that
prince. They are the first of the
imposing edifices that present so conspicuous
a front to the street leading
northward from the coppersmiths
bazaar (Sook en-Nahasseen), near the
Khán Khaléel.
Each of these mosques is well
worthy of inspection. The entrances
to them are to the right and left of a
long passage, with roof of open beams,
into which you pass beneath a handsome
portal adorned with black and
white marble.
I. The mosque to the left, or S. of the
passage.
—Traversing the outer court,
in the centre of which is the hanafeeyeh,
we enter the mosque from the
W. It is divided by six large pillars
in two rows of three from E. to W.,
supporting elongated pointed archer.
The pillars are painted dull green,
and the capitals yellow. The Kibleh,
the side columns of which bear a
horseshoe arch, is adorned with rows of
colonnettes, with shell-shaped cavities
and arabesques: the upper portion
containing gilded mosaic. The
roof is of open beams. A side space
to the S. of the open court, with three
pointed arches resting on two columns,
is used for the daily prayers; and
another compartment, to the W. of the
court, contains a window which gives
a view of the passage leading to the
hospital.
II. The mosque-tomb, to the right or
N. of the passage.
—A few steps lead
to the antechamber, or outer division,
which was formerly a library, and is
now used as a depository for registers
of wakfs. From it we pass through
a screen, into the mausoleum itself.
This is unique in construction, and is
fortunately maintained in a better
state of preservation than the generality
of the Cairo mosques. The
tomb is in the centre protected by a
wooden screen, round which four solid
piers and four large granite pillars
support an octagonal superstructure,
with elongated pointed arches, partaking
slightly of the horseshoe form.
Their spandrils, as well as the windows
of the mosque, are adorned with
light tracery. The Kibleh is adorned
with rows of colonnettes and mosaics
of coloured stones and mother-of-pearl.
The walls are decorated with inlaid
stones, the name of Mohammed, four
times repeated so as to complete a
square, forming one of the ingenious
patterns. The stucco tracery of the
windows is also delicate.
The mosque is much frequented,
especially on Saturdays, by sick folk.
The columns which flank the kibleh
are believed to possess miraculous
virtues, and are much resorted to by
invalids, who rub the half of a lime
upon the stone, and then apply it to
the tongue, forehead, &c. A block of
red stone is also kept in the W. side

of the mosque, and a potent remedy
consists in drinking water discoloured
by rubbing its surface. A robe, together
with a turban and sash of Kalaoon,
who is regarded as a great hakeem,
or physician, is still preserved, and
believed to be capable of effecting
marvellous cures.
Of the once flourishing Muristán,
which occupied a considerable space
to the W. of these mosques, some portions
remain; and the general plan of
the whole can still be traced. After
quitting the mosques, by following
the passage to the left we arrive at an
open court surrounded by columns,
which communicates with the old
kitchen, and around which were
grouped the different wards of the
hospital, for both male and female
patients. By retracing our steps along
the passage northward, we may visit
the diminutive cells in which the
lunatics were formerly confined, and
which are now occupied by copper-smiths.
The Mosque of En-Nasr (Gámah
Nasreeyeh
). Adjoining those of Kalaoon
are the mosque and tomb of his
son Mohammed en-Nasr, 1303 A.D.
(see p. 63). At the entrance we are
struck by the doorway, which consists
of clustered pillars and pointed arch
in the early pointed Gothic style.
It is said to have been brought as a
trophy from el-Akka (Acre) by el-Melek
el-Ashraf, son and successor
of Kalaoon. An inscription above it
states that the building was erected
by the Sultan Mohammed, son of
the Sultan el-Melek el-Mansoor ed
deen Kalaoon es-Sálehee, in 698 A.H.
(1299 A.D.). Makreezee, however,
states that it was completed in A.H.
703. It was originally founded, he
says, by el-Melek el-Adel Ketbogha,
who usurped and held the throne of
Egypt for two years.
The tomb is to the right of the
passage, but it is dilapidated and uninteresting.
The mosque is to the
left, and exhibits a good example of
delicate tracery round the arch above
the Kibleh, but is not otherwise remarkable.
The mosque which the
Sultan Mohamed en-Nasr built in the
citadel has been described at p 171.
It is not clear why Nasr did not elect
to be buried in the latter, but perhaps
he may have wished to rest near the
tomb of his father Kalaoon.
The Mosque of Sultan Berkook (Gámah Berkook). The third mosque,
adjoining the two last-named, to the
N., dates from the reign of the Circassian
Sultan ez-Záhir Berkook, 1382-1398
A.D. (784-801 A.H.) (see p. 64).
It contains the tombs of the wife
of Berkook and of his daughter Fatmeh;
and an illuminated copy of the
Korán, which was formerly kept in
the mosque, is said to have been
written by the latter. The doorway
is of black and white marble. The
façade and minaret, like those of the
two preceding mosques, are painted
red and white. The mosque itself is
of the Sultan Hassan type, consisting
of an open court, with large
arched recesses at each side, that on
the E., or Mecca, side being, as usual,
larger and deeper than the other
three.
The tomb-mosque of Berkook himself
is to be seen amongst the picturesque
mausolea of the Circassian
dynasty (see p. 190).
The Mosque of Moaiyud (Gámah el-Moaiyud)
is situated close to the
Bab Zuweyleh, upon the towers of
which the two elegant minarets of the
mosque are placed. It was founded
between 1412-1420 A.D. by Moaiyud
Aboo'l Nasr of the Circassian Mem-look
dynasty (see p. 64). It is one
of the best and most richly decorated
mosques of the open or primitive
style. After ages of neglect it is now
being rebuilt, the Leewan, or sanctuary,
being alone untouched.
The principal entrance is to the E.
from the Sookereeyeh. A flight of
steps leads to a superb portal (recalling
that of Sultan Hassan), adorned
with black and white marble and
tasteful sculptures and arabesques.
The bronze-mounted door was taken
from the mosque of Sultan Hassan.

The tomb of Moaiyud is to the left of
the entrance, surmounted by a dome.
A passage leads to the courtyard,
which presents a charming appearance,
the fountain being overshadowed
by several well-grown palms and
acacias. A double arcade surrounds
it on three sides; and the columns
of these subordinate porticos, which
were of various sizes and materials,
and some of which were sculptured
with inscriptions in Arabic, are being
replaced by new ones of marble, and
of uniform dimensions.
The sanctuary, or Leewan el-Kibleh,
is well worthy of careful inspection.
It is divided by three rows of pointed
arches with slight horsehoe curve, supported
for the most part by columns.
A screen of wood-work separates it
from the open court. The decorations
of the roof, especially the S.E. portion,
are in admirable taste. Those of the
kibleh and of portions of the walls are
also remarkable. The stucco tracery of
the windows, with their coloured glass
representing cypresses and other patterns,
are in a state of rare preservation.
The mosque is often called the
Gámah el-Mutawélee, after the popular
name of the adjoining Bab - ez-Zuweyleh.
The Mosque of Keyssoon (Gámah
Keyssoon
, or Koossoon), founded in
1330 A.D., is situated to the left of the
Boulevard Mohammed Ali. It was
originally one of the best mosques
of Cairo, and from what yet remains
its former grandeur may be imagined
and its proportions traced. It is being
rebuilt, but not restored. It is much
to be regretted that the formation of
the Boulevard should have necessitated
the destruction of this magnificent
building, especially as a slight curve in
the road would have saved it; but
Ismail Pasha thought more of making
a fine straight street to the citadel than
of preserving an old mosque. A new
mosque is being built in place of the
original one, but its architecture is disappointing.
There are some remains
of the old work, but they will be quite
overshadowed by the new masonry. An
attempt has been made to preserve the
sanctuary and Kibleh.
The Emeer Koossoon, or Keyssoon (died A.D. 1341) who was of low origin,
rose to eminence during the reign of
Mohammed en-Nasr ibn-Kalaoon. He
became a favourite of the Sultan,
who married his sister, and bestowed
upon him one of his own daughters.
Makreezee describes his munificence,
the number of sheep and cattle that he
slaughtered, and the robes that he
bestowed during the great festivals.
His house and adjoining property extended
as far as the mosque of Sultan
Hassan. His end, like that of so many
of the Emeers of En-Nasr, was unfortunate.
Banished to Alexandria,
he was there put to death. One of
the quarters (Toomn) of Cairo is called
after him.
The Mosque of El Akbar in the
Sinfiyeh is the place where the Dancing
Dervishes perform, and a description
of it will be found at p. 204.
The Mosque of Kait Bey, which is
not far from the mosque of Tooloon, is
worth visiting. The plan is somewhat
similar to that of the tomb-mosque of
the same Sultan (see p. 191). This
was a very beautiful little mosque, but
is in a very ruinous condition. The
Commission already alluded to has prepared
plans for preserving it from
further decay.
The Mosque of Sheykhoon (Gámah
Sheykhoon
, or Sheyko), A.D. 1355
(A.H. 756). Two mosques, one on
either side of the road, bearing this
name, with minarets of similar form
rising above their respective portals,
are situated in the Seleebeh, to the W.
of the Rumeyleh. That to the N. of the
street is less remarkable. It consists
of an open court with double arcades,
E. and W., and side recesses N. and
S., of pointed arches. Three thick
plates of dark-coloured glass, which are
fixed in the walls of the small vestibule,
near the entrance, are held to possess
miraculous properties. The kibleh contained some good tiles, most of
which have disappeared.
The mosque on the opposite or S.
side of the street, though also of irregular
construction, with its adjoining
tekkeeyeh, is more interesting. A passage
leads round to the Sáhn el-Gamah,
in which are a hanafeeyeh, a sakeeyeh,
and two trees. The raised Leewan,
which is separated from this sáhn by
two columns supporting a large and
two smaller arches, contains a double
colonnade with pointed arches, having
a very slight return at the archivolt;
small wooden domes rise above the
kibleh and in the N.E. corner, where
are the tombs of the Emeer Sheykho
and the Imám of his mosque. Round
the N.W. and S. sides of the open
court are doors opening into cells.
By returning to the entrance-passage
and following it onwards, we see the
plan of the khaneeka, or tekkeeyeh,
with its numerous cells, which are
situated to the S. of the open court.
Passing through these, we enter the
hall for the zikr (which takes place
every Tuesday (see p. 209), contiguous
to the sanctuary of the mosque. It is
spanned by two large arches.
The Emeer el-Kebeer Seyf ed-deen
Sheykho en-Nasrée
was a Memlook who
rose to eminence in the time of en-Nasr
ibn-Kalaoon. He became regent
during the short reign of es-Sáleh,
eighth son of En-Nasr. He was put to
death, like so many of En-Nasr's
Emeers.
The Mosque of Merdánee (Gámah
Merdánee
), 1338-1340 A.D., situated
in the Darb el-Ahmar, leading from
the Bab Zuweyleh to the citadel, is
one of the best of the edifices erected
during the reign of En-Nasr ibn
Kalaoon. Like so many others, it is
falling into ruin. In general plan it
bears the greatest resemblance to the
mosque of Keyssoon, and was probably
by the same architect. It consists of a
large open court, surrounded by arcaded
colonnades with pointed arches,
a double row on the N.W. and S. sides,
and four rows in the Sanctuary or
Mecca side. The two innermost ranges
terminate as they approach the kibleh,
and give place to eight large granite
pillars, intended to support a dome,
which however does not exist, a flat
roof now taking its place. Most of the
mosaics and decorations of the mosque
have disappeared. It is worthy of
notice that trees are represented in
stucco upon the wall above the kibleh,
and upon those borne by the pillars.
Above one of the arches in the W.
portico is an inscription in Arabic,
on a slab of blue stone embedded in
stucco. The principal entrance is on
the N. side, beneath a vaulted passage,
to the left of which rises the
minaret. This mosque was built upon
what was at that time a cemetery.
Makreezee tells us that the cost of
the mosque was 300,000 dirhems, or
15,000 dinars (about 9000l.), exclusive
of what was spent in wood and
marble.
El-Emeer el-Kebeer Tambagha Merdánee
es-Sákee
occupied the position
of “Sákee” (cup-bearer) to En-Nasr
ibn-Kalaoon, whose daughter he married.
Merdánee was chief of a faction
that conspired against the Emeer
Koossoon, and secured the downfall of
the latter, whose position Merdánee
then inherited.
The Mosque of Ak-Sünkur, or of
Ibrahim Agha (Gámah Ak-Sünkur
, or
Ibrahim Agha), 1328 A.D. (728 A.H),
is in the Darb el-Wizeer, or continuation
of the Darb el-Ahmar towards the
citadel. It consists of an open court
with arcades of somewhat irregular
construction to the N. and E. The
arches are pointed. The wall of the
Leewan el-Kibleh is remarkable, being
entirely cased with blue porcelain tiles,
symmetrically arranged. Amongst
them those representing cypress-trees
will be noticed.
The little court with its green palms
and the blue tiled sanctuary beyond
makes a very pleasing picture.
The mosque was enlarged and repaired
in 1617 A.D. by Ibrahim Agha,
a custodian of the mosque, and is
generally called after his name. His
tomb, as well as that of Ak-Sünkur, is
within the building.
Ak-Sünkur es-Saláree, a Memlook
of the Emeer Salar, rose to hold high
positions, including that of Naïb Masr,

in the time of En-Nasr ibn-Kalaoon.
He also built a bridge over the Khaleeg,
near the Habaneeyeh, which bears his
name, and a mosque, now ruined, in
the Gemaleeyeh.
The Mosque of Kheyr-bek (Gámah
Kheyr-bek
), 1520 A.D. (926 A.H.). On
leaving the mosque of Ak-Sünkur, the
traveller will do well to visit the little
tomb-mosque of Kheyr-bek, which is a
little to the S. in the same street.
The decorations of the dome surmounting
the mausoleum are remarkably
elegant.
The traitor Kheyr-bek, who deserted
the cause of the Memlooks, was the
first governor or Pasha of Egypt under
the Turkish domination.
The Mosque of Gashinkeer (Gámah
Baybers Gashinkeer
), 1308 A.D. (708
A.H.), is situated in the Gemaleeyeh,
where its solid looking minaret, painted
red and white, and its dome become
conspicuous as you approach towards
the Bab en-Nasr. The interior of the
mosque, which is of the Sultan Hassan
type, is so dilapidated as to be
scarcely worthy of a visit; but the
mausoleum of the founder, which is to
the left of the entrance, is interesting.
It is surmounted by an ample dome,
with pendentives, which, though less
delicate than in many other examples,
are remarkable. The walls and the
floor are decorated with inlaid stones
arranged in admirable patterns. The
tomb is in the centre. In the sill of
a window to the S., which communicates
with the passage, is an
ancient Egyptian receptacle for votive
offerings, shaped like a cannon,
with hieroglyphic inscriptions. Above
the entrance to the tomb is a wooden
tablet, with an inscription containing
the name and date of Gashinkeer.
El-Melek el-Mozaffar Rokn-ed-deen
Baybers el-Gashinkeer (el-Mansooree
es-Seyfee)
was originally a slave of
Kalaoon. When Kalaoon's son En-Nasr
was deposed, or abdicated a
second time in 1302, Baybers was
elected by the Emeers to succeed him.
En-Nasr, however, gathered an army
at Damascus, and being joined by
Berlak, chief of the Emeers, who deserted
the cause of Baybers, he returned
triumphant to Cairo. Baybers
Gashinkeer then fled with a large
amount of treasure, but was pursued
and put to death by order of En-Nasr.
The Mosque of El-Ghóree (Gámah
El-Ghóree
), built by the Sultan Khansooh
el-Ghóree
(see p. 64) about 1513
A.D., stands at the extremity of the
bazaar called after him the Ghoreeyeh,
and from its position is one of the most
picturesque buildings in Cairo. On
approaching it from the Ghoreeyeh,
which is of more than ordinary
breadth, you perceive the grand effect
of its lofty walls; and the open space
in which it stands, together with the
variety of costumes in the groups that
throng the spot, and the grand doorway
of the mosque-tomb on the opposite
side, offer a beautiful subject for
the pencil of an artist. There are two
mosques, one on each side of the road;
that on the E. side being originally a
medresseh, or college. The street is
usually very crowded, and walking
will be found pleasanter than driving.
The mosque on the W. side is
quite a gem amongst the mosques
of Cairo. In plan, the interior resembles
that of Kaitbey, and is well
worth seeing for the inlaid floors, the
arabesques of the walls, the kibleh,
the bands of decorative Kufic inscriptions,
and the richly ornamented roof.
The beauty and completeness of the
decorations are very striking, and the
original splendour can be imagined
from the traces of gilding and colours
that remain on portions of the sculptured
arches. It is now being repaired
by the Commission for the Preservation
of Monuments, and so also is another
mosque on the opposite or E. side of
the road, with a mausoleum to the S.,
containing tombs of members of the
harem of Ghóree. To the N. are a
sebeel and small school (maktab). The
sebeel should be inspected. It is tastefully
decorated; the roof being in the
richest and best style, and the floor of
inlaid marbles. A slab of white marble,
over which water supplied by an
adjoining sakeeyeh formerly trickled, is

sculptured to represent water in the
ancient Egyptian or zigzag style, with
a border representing fish.
The Mosque of Sitt, or Seyyideh
Zeyneb (Gámah es-Seyyideh Zeyneb),
the granddaughter of the Prophet, is
situated in the S.W. quarter of the
city, near the Khaleeg. It was built
at the end of the last century, and
though elaborately ornamented is not
very handsome. The clock-tower is
remarkable, and a new wall on the
W. side, with richly carved windows
and ornaments, has lately been added.
This mosque is now in course of complete
restoration. It is a favourite place
of prayer of the present Khedive, who
may often be seen driving thither for
the service of Friday morning.
The mosque contains a variety of
ancient columns, and in the windows
some coloured glass. The mixture of
Turkish decoration, with the modern
style of the architecture, produces no
pleasing effect. The tomb, which is
much revered, is in a small but lofty
apartment of the mosque, crowned
with a dome. It is an oblong monument, covered with silk, and surrounded
by a bronze screen with a wooden
canopy. Only women are allowed to
enter the bronze enclosure. Sunday
and Wednesday are the days on which
it is especially visited.
The tombs, with large green turbans,
which are to be seen on the terrace to
the N. of the mosque, are those of
Mohammed el-Atrees, a brother of the
great saint Ibrahim ed-Dessookee, and
of El-Adaroósee, a great traveller and
writer, who visited India ten times.
He was born at Terim in Yemen in
A.D. 1725, and died in 1776.
The Mosque of Ibn-Mizheh (Gámah
Ibn-Mizheh
), 1489 A.D. (885 A.H.), a
handsome mosque, with a good minaret,
is reached by a narrow street, now
called the Beer-Gowán, behind the
new mosque of Soliman Agha, and in
the direction of that of El-Hákim.
Its walls and floor contain some beautiful
specimens of inlaid work. The
kibleh is richly decorated with dwarf
blind arcades of blue pillars, which
encircle it and are continued, as in
some other mosques, along the E.
walls. The mimbar is of delicately
inlaid wood, and bears a decorative
Kufic inscription. On the W. side
is a dikkeh, supported by a wooden
stalactite corbel, coloured blue and
gold. The name of the artificer who
designed the tasteful ornamentations
of the interior, Abd-er-Rahmán en-Nakásh,
appears inlaid in the stone
that fills up the head of a N.E.
window.
This mosque was built by Mohammed
Aboo-Bekr ibn - Mizheh el - Ansáree.
He was “Katib es-Sírr” to the Sultan
Kaitbey, and possessed great wealth
His career had its vicissitudes, and he
was at one time disgraced and his goods
confiscated. He was, however, restored
to favour, and his son inherited
his rank and property.
The Mosque of Sitt Safeeya (Gámah
es-Sitt Safeeya
), 1604 A.D. (1013 A.H.),
is to the left of the Boulevard Mohammed
Ali, and will well repay a visit.
The outer court, to which three flights
of 18 steps lead up, on the N.W. and S.
sides, consists of a small open square,
surrounded by pillars of granite and
marble, forming four porticos surmounted
by small domes of brick.
The pillars are connected with each
other, and with the walls of the court
by pointed arches. The Leewán, or
sanctuary, produces a pleasing impression
by its harmonious proportions;
while its difference in style from the
mosques of the Egyptian types will be,
of course, remarked. Six solid pillars
support a large central dome, which is
pierced with 24 windows with pointed
heads, and with two rows of small
circular apertures. The windows contain
plain and yellow glass, arranged
in round pieces, many of which have
fallen. The pillars are connected with
each other and with the walls by
pointed arches. The keel shape occurs
in blind arches. A smaller dome rises
above the space immediately in front
of the kibleh, which projects from the
main space. It is also provided with
windows. Smaller dome vaultings

also surmount the side spaces N. and S.
The mimbar, or pulpit, of sculptured
marble is remarkably fine. Close to it
is a wooden sword, which is carried
in front of the preacher. A wooden
gallery, which may be ascended, encircles
the dome; and a passage which
is constructed in the W. wall, communicates
with the dikkeh, which is
supported by 2 small columns.
This mosque is named after the lady
Safeeya, of Venice, the wife of the
Turkish. Sultan Moorad (Amurath)
III., and mother of Mohammed III.
It was in reality built by Osman Agha,
a eunuch of hers, who held the office of
“Agha Dar es-Saádeh” (Agha of the
Sublime Porte), part of whose duties
regarded the regulation of all matters
connected with the wakfs of thæ
Harameyn (holy cities of Mecca and
Medina). He endowed the mosque
richly, but the Validæ Safeeya contested
his rights, and the affair was
decided by the tribunal of Cairo in her
favour.
The following mosques may be briefly
mentioned.
The Gámah Sáleh dates from the
Fatemite period. It was built by
Sáleh ibn-Ruseek Thalaiyeh, who
brought the head of Hoseyn to Cairo.
It contains arches of a form rare in
Cairo. Bands of Kufic texts in stucco
adorn the walls; and inscriptions in
the same character are carved on some
of the light wooden beams that connect
the miscellaneous capitals of the
columns. The tracery which is preserved
in some of the windows and
decorative niches is exquisite.
The Gámah Said es-Sóada (12th
century A.D.), in the Gemaleeyeh, is
interesting as dating from the time of
Saláh ed-deen (Saladin). It was originally
a khaneeka, for soofis and poor
students. It is cruciform in shape; a
small open court being surrounded by
4 recesses, containing double colonnades,
or porticos. To the W. are
about 15 cells for the sofis, or dervishes.
Formerly these cells were very
numerous, and the khaneeka occupied
a much larger space than at present.
The Gámah el-Más (1330 A.D.), in
the Helmeeyeh, is a picturesque little
mosque with pointed arches, and a
small open court shaded by an acacia.
It contains some good specimens of
tracery. It was built by the Emeer
Seyf-ed-deen el-Más el-Hágib
, who
was put to death in the citadel, by
order of En-Nasr-ibn Kalaoon, in
1334 A.D.
The Gámah et-Turkománee (about
A.D. 1330), situated in the by-street
called the Darb et-Turkománee, leading
from the Bab el-Bahr, contains a
pillar formed by portions of two
columns of basalt from an ancient
Egyptian temple, inscribed with
hieroglyphics. Various superstitions
are associated with certain other
columns in the mosque. There are
three rows of 4 columns, which are
continued above the capitals in the
forms of piers, and support the roof
without arches. Ali el-Turkománee
held the position almost equivalent
to that of Vizier in the reign of
Shaabán.
The Gámah Ezbek (A.D. 1495), in a
street between the mosque of Tooloon
and the Birket el-feel, possesses a
handsome pavement of inlaid stones,
and a good minaret, containing a
double staircase. The disposition of
the interior resembles that of Kaitbey.
The Emeer Ezbek el-Yoosefee was the
general and one of the chief notables of
the reign of Kaitbey. Another mosque
of Ezbek, which gave the name to the
Ezbekeeyeh, situated immediately to
the E. of the statue of Ibrahim Pasha,
has been destroyed within the last few
years.
The Gámah Zeyn el-Abdeen, to the
S. of Cairo between the Bab Seyyideh
Zeyneb and the Aqueduct, is built on
the site of an ancient church. The
date of the original building is uncertain.
At the time of the French
occupation it was destroyed; and subsequently
was rebuilt by one Osman
Agha; a minaret being added by
Mahmood Pasha Captan. The mosque
itself is not remarkable; but in the
W. wall is a curious old gateway
formed by a monolithic arch, fractured
in two places, of basalt. A massive
door of the same material closes upon

it, revolving in a large block which
is placed above. This spot and the
surrounding cemetery is highly venerated.
The Gámah Kheiáteen (A.H. 1178),
in the S.W. of Cairo, with its adjoining
sebeel, has a handsome façade, richly
sculptured, and a superb wooden door,
of which the centre panel has disappeared.
The minaret is also well
proportioned. It was built by the
Emeer Yoosef Shurbagee.
Amongst other mosques which may
be visited by those who desire to make
a more complete study, the following
may be mentioned: the mosques of
Záhir el-Baybers (13th century A.D.);
of Kissmas el-Ishakee, in the Darb el-Ahmar
(13th century); of Gai el-Yossefee;
of Ganbek; of Aslam; of es-Sitt
Nasra
; of Om-es-Sultan Shaabán (14th century); of the Emeer Yakhór;
of El-Ashraf, near the Ghoreeyeh; of
El-Ghámree, in the Margoósh; of
Abd - el - Kereem (called of Abbas
Pasha
), close to the house of the
Sheykh el-Bekree, formerly the palace
of Abbas Pasha (15th century).
Amongst the mosques possessing
little or no architectural interest, but
of peculiar sanctity, are those of the
Seyyideh Nefeeseh, the Seyyideh
Sekeeneh
, the Sitt Ayesha en-Neba-weeyeh,
the Sitt Fatmeh en-Neba-weeyeh,
and the Sheykhs Sharawee,
Bayoómee
, and Hánafee.
Of mosques in the new style may be
noticed that of the Sheykh Sáleh Aboo-Hadeed,
built by the Khedive Ismail,
and that of Mustafa Pasha (el-Gámah
Báshtak
), in the Darb-el-Gamameez.
l. CHURCHES.
Coptic Churches.—The most interesting
specimens of old Coptic churches
(keneeseh) are at Old (see p. 227).
There are two or three, however, worth
notice in Cairo itself. Most of them,
as at Old Cairo , are within convents
(dayrs). They are invariably extremely
plain on the outside, and are
constructed of thin dark-red bricks,
probably of Roman manufacture. One,
three, or more domes rise above their
roofs, and the thickness of the walls
and the narrowness of the apertures
for light render them admirably
adapted to the warmth of the climate.
Internally they are divided by wooden
screens into different compartments
(khurs-khuáris), in the westernmost
of which is commonly found the well
or tank for the water blessed at the
Feast of the Epiphany. The Baptistery
proper (mamoodeeyeh) is generally
in a separate chapel. The other compartments
are for the women and for
laymen, and that within the screen,
which answers to the Iconostasis of
Greek churches, is reserved for the
use of the clergy in the celebration of
the Holy Eucharist. The side aisles
are likewise separated from the nave
by openwork screens. The central
and side altars, of which the latter are
rarely used, stand under baldacchinos
supported upon ancient marble pillars,
and behind each is almost invariably a
chancel (heykel) and apse with semicircular
stone seats, and a central throne,
anciently but not at the present time
used by the bishop according to primitive
Christian practice. The walls of
the apses are decorated with mosaics
or painted, and paintings cover the
ceilings. The altars are themselves
square, and under each is a cavity at
the back. They are generally made
of stone, and on the top there is a
central groove, in which is placed the
square wooden receptacle for the
Sacred Elements. Persons entering
the doors of the Iconostasis are expected
to take off their shoes, a practice
of remote antiquity, and one
which recalls the command of the
Almighty addressed to Moses at the
Burning Bush. The celebrating
clergy at the Eucharist are generally
altogether barefooted. As in the
Greek Church, there are no organs;
the only instruments of music used
being cymbals and triangles and small
brass bells struck with a rod held in
the hand. The voices of the clergy
as they “praise God with the loud
cymbals
” have a singularly wild and
impressive effect. There are no images,
but a great number of paintings in

the stiff Byzantine style, but some of
them are not wanting in a kind of
rude grandeur. The principal painting
is always that of our Lord in the
act of benediction.
The following are among the principal
objects found in those churches
which merit the attention of antiquaries
and those interested in ancient
ecclesiastical art:—1. Pulpits of marble,
enriched with mosaics in marble
and mother-of-pearl. 2. Shrines containing
the relics of saints, enclosed
in wooden cases wrapped in rich silk
or other stuff, and precisely resembling
bolsters. 3. Processional crosses,
often with flags attached, and hand-crosses
of brass and silver. 4. Ancient
silver and brass censers, of which
some have small bells attached to
the chains. 5. Brass candlesticks.
6. Silver boxes to hold the incense.
7. Silver chalices, patens, and spoons.
8. Coverings for copies of the Gospel,
made of silver, silver-gilt, or iron.
Many of these are enriched with inter-lacing
work, crosses, and inscriptions
in Coptic and Arabic in relief. The
Gospels are hermetically sealed inside
these cases. 9. Ancient Arabic lamps
of glass. Only two or three of these
now remain in use. 10. Square
painted boxes or receptacles for the
Sacred Elements at the time of celebration.
11. Ostrich eggs in metal
casing, suspended from the roofs, like
those in Mohammedan mosques. 12.
Staves upon which the clergy and
laity rest themselves during long
services. 13. Large carved wooden
chairs used as supports for relics, or
for the Gospels, and occasionally as a
seat for the Patriarch. 14. Screens
of inlaid wood and ivory, often of
extreme beauty and intricacy of design.
15. Rich hangings for curtains
and coverings of the altar. 16. Vestments,
of extremely ancient design,
but rarely of ancient manufacture.
17. Wall-decoration of Arabic and
Persian (or Rhodian) tiles. To those
who take an interest in such matters,
we strongly recommend a perusal of
Mr. A. J. Butler's work on the Ancient
Coptic Churches of Egypt, which, in
addition to describing the actual buildings,
gives a most interesting account
of the Coptic ritual.
The principal church, or Cathedral
of the Copts
, dedicated to St. Mark, is
situated in the Coptic quarter, to the
N. of the Ezbekeeyeh. It is a large
basilica, recently constructed, and possessing
no features of particular interest.
The main space consists of a
nave and two aisles, separated by lofty
pillars (some of marble, others of wood),
supporting elliptical pointed arches.
An oval-shaped dome covers the central
space, and 4 round domes are
placed at the extremities of the aisles.
Behind a lofty wooden screen is the
chancel (heykel), and a few steps encircle
the tribune or central apse; above
which, as above the two smaller apses,
are placed small domes. On the panels
of the screen to the right and left of
the door of the chancel (bab el-heykel)
are paintings of the Virgin and of St.
Mark. A staircase winds round the
second pillar of the choir on the N.
side, to the pulpit. The gaudy throne
of the late patriarch is near the first
pillar. That used by the present
patriarch, a piece of modern European
furniture, is close to it. A reading-desk,
of inlaid work, is the only interesting
relic.
Adjoining the cathedral to the N. are
the residence of the Patriarch Cyrillus
(Cyril) and the Schools.
The Church of the Virgin (Keneeset
el-Adra
) is situated at the end of a
long lane in the quarter called Hart
er-Room. After traversing the Ghoreeyeh,
turn to the left at the sebeel of
Mohamed Ali. The church is entered
by a dark low passage, is of uncertain
date, and has been somewhat recently
restored. It is dedicated to the Virgin,
and also contains the “bones” of
St. Marina, who appears in a portrait
trampling upon Satan. The church
is, according to the orthodox type,
divided into several sections by screens:
the E. end terminating with 3 apses,
or heykels. In the central heykel (the
dome of which contains pendentives
and a diminutive window of coloured
glass), round the wall, are pictures
of Christ in the centre, surrounded by
the “24 elders” and by 4 prophets.

A baldacchino, resting on wooden
beams secured in the side walls, is
noticeable. The interior is painted,
representing Christ in the centre, and
lower down the “4 beasts” with faces
of a lion, a calf, a man, and an eagle:
while in the lowest part appear the
4 Evangelists. Above the screen of
the heykel are pictures of the 12
'Apostles. The Bab el-Heykel is old,
and contains inlaid ivory inscriptions
in Coptic and Arabic. On the screen
are good pictures of Amba Senóodeh,
the Virgin and Child, and others.
The baptistery is to the N. The roof
consists of 12 domes, supported by
plain whitewashed piers with round
arches. Amongst the pictures is one
of Aboo Sepheen in the act of slaying
an infidel king, who had imprisoned
the Patriarch Basileos. Some of the
frames of the pictures, restored in 1531
of the Coptic era (A.D. 1815), are interesting.
This church possesses a
Gospel cased in silver.
The Church of St. George (Keneeseh
Mari Girgis
). After leaving the last-named
church, the visitor may ascend
by a flight of steps to that of St. George.
The church is divided into 5 compartments
by 4 screens. That farthest to
the W. is raised about 3 1/2 feet, and
contains the baptistery. The other
sections resemble those found in other
Coptic churches. The whole is roofed
with domes and tunnel vaultings, supported
by piers. The pulpit is placed
in the central section, which is surmounted
by a dome displaying pendentives
of the most debased style. A
good screen of wood inlaid with bone
separates the heykel from the choir.
In the central apse of the heykel are a
few pictures, and the dome contains
one small window with coloured glass.
The bones of St. Girgis are said to be
contained in a small bolster which is
here shown. Numerous ostrich eggs,
and a few silver censers are suspended
near the screen of the heykel. The
priests of this church are particularly
civil and obliging.
The old patriarchal residence, which
adjoins it, possesses no features of
interest.
Close to these churches is the
Convent of St. Theodore (Dayr Mari
Tedreus
), which reveals the extreme
of monastic poverty and simplicity.
About 10 or 12 nuns are in residence.
In a chamber, noted for the cure of
demoniacs or epileptics, is a bolster
supposed to contain the bones of one
of the arms of the saint, who is generally
called, by Copts and Muslims
alike, el-Emeer Tedreus. Up to 1873
the ceremony of the casting out of
devils was performed every Wednesday
before the shrine of St. Theodore
upon Mohammedan women, great
numbers of whom came on each occasion
to be exorcised. If the ceremony
failed three times, the patient had
recourse to the celebrated Dayr Sitt
Damianee in the Delta. The practice
was suppressed by the late patriarch
in consequence of the scandals which
ensued.
Coptic Churches in the Hart ez-Zuweyleh.—Two
interesting churches
of uncertain date, but undoubtedly of
great antiquity, are situated in the
quarter called the Hart es-Zuweyleh,
close to the Bab el-Margoosh, and in
the vicinity of an Armenian and
several other Christian churches.
1. The Church of the Virgin (Keneeset
el-Adra
).—This curious church,
which, there is reason to believe, is the
oldest Coptic place of worship in
Cairo, preserves the original type of
the Coptic basilica. The nave is
enclosed by columns which support a
wall, pierced with openings having
pointed heads. An open wooden roof
is supported by beams. On the N.
side of the nave are 2 aisles, separated
by a range of columns. To the S. is
a single aisle, terminating at its E.
end with a small side chapel, or shrine,
containing a picture of the Virgin and
Child, which is much venerated, and
upon which numerous shreds are suspended.
The choir contains 9 columns,
and the walls of the nave are continued
through it and join those of
the heykel, which is surmounted by a
dome, and contains a baldacchino supported
by 4 columns. The usual steps
are arranged, theatre fashion, round
the apse, which is decorated with rude
mosaics and a few tiles. Three small

side chapels adjoin the apse. The
church is divided, as usual, into sections
by transverse screens. A curious
pulpit, rudely inlaid, to the N.E. of the
nave, is supported by small columns.
The Heykel screen is a piece of handsome
work. The outer compartment,
formerly appropriated to women, to
the W. of the nave, is in a very
neglected state.
The Chapel of Aboo Sepheen adjoins
this church on the N.E. It is divided
into a nave with aisles, separated by
columns, and transversely by screens
into 2 sections, besides the heykel.
The pulpit is of wood, curiously carved.
2. The Church of St, George (Keneeseh
Mari Girgis
).—Ascending by
a staircase to an upper floor, we find
a church dedicated to St. George.
The arrangement of the interior is
very similar to that of other Coptic
churches. The S. aisle contains a
gallery, with lattice windows, for the
accommodation of the nuns of the
adjoining convent, which may be inspected
with the permission of the
reisseh, or Superior. It is inhabited
by about 15 nuns.
There is a small community of
Catholic Copts, who have at present
no chapel of their own. A bishop,
chosen among their own clergy, presides
over them.
The Armenian (orthodox) community
possesses a church in Cairo, and
also in Old Cairo . The Armenian
Catholics
are more numerous. Their
principal church is in the Darb el-Ginéyne,
in the central quarters of
Cairo, but it is uninteresting. Their
patriarch resides at Constantinople.
The Greeks of the Orthodox Church are a numerous body. Their principal
church, with schools adjoining, is in
the Hamzowee.
The Greek Catholics (whose Patriarch,
chosen by their bishops, is resident
in Egypt) have several churches
in Cairo and its suburbs.
The Maronites (Catholics) have a
church in the Darb el-Ginéyne. The
Syrian Catholics have a small church
in the Darb el-Barabra, near the
Mooskee.
The Roman Catholics possess a large
church, the Eglise des Péres de Terre
Sainte, near the Mooskee, and also a
new church in the Ismailleyeh quarter.
The English Church is situated to
the left of the road leading from the
Ezbekeeyeh to Boolak (see p 159).
The German Protestant Church,
with an excellent school adjoining, is
situated in the Ismaileeyeh quarter
(see p. 159).
The New Presbyterian Church is at
the American Mission in the Ezbekeeyeh
(see p. 159).
m. TOMBS, CEMETERIES.
The cemeteries of Cairo are very extensive,
occupying the desert tracts
immediately to the N.E., E., and S. of
the city. The historical tombs are
numerous and interesting. It may be
observed that many of the mosques
of Cairo are tomb-mosques, in so far
as they contain a mausoleum, generally
surmounted by a dome, in which
repose the bones of their founders, and
often of members of their families.
The most interesting Group of tomb-mosques
are those of the Circassian
Memlooks. hitherto generally called
by Europeans “the Tombs of the
Khalifs,” and by the people of Cairo
spoken of as the “Cemetery of Kaitbey.”
In reality, no mausoleums of
the Khalifs, as a group, remain. The
tombs of the Fatemite Khalifs occupied
the site of what is now the
bazaar of Khan Khaleel, and were
destroyed in the 7th century of the
Hégira, when the bazaar was built by
the Sultan El Ashraf Khaleel, son of
Kalaoon.
Of the Ayoobite dynasty there remains
only the much-neglected Tomb
of es-Sáleh Negm-ed-deen Ayoob
, near
the Khan Khaleel. He died in A.H. 647
(1250 A.D.). It will be remembered
that it was in his reign that Louis the
9th of France (Saint Louis) invaded
Egypt and was defeated and taken
prisoner near Mansourah.
Of the Baharite Memlook Sultans
there are several monuments in the
tomb-mosques of Baybers, of el-Mansoor
Kalaoon, of en-Nasr his son, of

Sultan Hassan, and Sultan Shaabán,
&c., which are situated in various
parts of the city, and which are mentioned
in the description of the
mosques. The “Tombs of the Memlooks,”
S. of Cairo, are also monuments
of the same period; but the
names and dates of their founders are,
in several instances, unknown.
The Circassian, or Borghite, Memlooks
have also left several mosques
in the city (see those of Barkook, el-Moaiyud,
el-Ashraf Bursabey, el-Ashraf
Eenál, Kaitbey, and el-Ghóree);
but the finest monuments of their
rule are to be found in the picturesque
group of mausolea to the E. of Cairo,
which we now proceed to describe.
I. The Tombs of the Circassian Memlooks
(called “Tombs of the Khalifs.”
or “El-Kaitbey”). The Cemeteries
of Bab en-Nasr. Burckhardt's
Grave.
The Tomb-mosque of Sultan Berkook (Gámah Berkook), who died 1398
A.D. (801 A.H.) (see p. 64), is of a style
and symmetry unique in Cairo. The
most striking features of the exterior
are the two superb minarets that rise
above the W. façade, and the two
domes of stone sculptured from the
base to the summit with horizontal
bands of chevron or zigzag mouldings.
The chief entrance is now to the S.W.
The Sáhn, or open court, is surrounded
by loggia (one row on the N. and S.
sides, two on the W., and three on the
E., which forms the Leewán, or Sanctuary).
They are vaulted with brick
cupolas. The mimar, of compact limestone,
delicately sculptured, is one of
the most beautiful objects in Cairo.
It has now been covered in with woodwork
to protect it from injury. Beneath
the N.E. dome are buried Berkook;
Fárag, his son and successor;
and a brother of the latter. The dome
to the S.E. was built by Fárag, and
beneath it are buried his mother the
Sitt Khawánd, and others. The tomb-mosque
of Fatmeh, the daughter of
Berkook, in the Bazaar of the Copper-smiths,
has been mentioned elsewhere

Plan of the Tomb-mosque of Sultan Berkook.

(see p. 180). The chambers to the N.
of the Sáhn, formerly occupied by
students, are now inhabited by servants
and officials of the mosque and their
families. On the S. are various
accessory chambers, vestibules, &c.
The portions of the mosque to the
N.W. contained the sebeel and kutáb,
which are now, like many other parts
of the building, in a state of ruin.
The Tomb-mosque of El Ashraf (Gámah el-Ashraf Bursabey), died
1437 A.D. (841 A.H.), (see p. 64).—
Passing southwards, and leaving to the
left a dome whose founder is unknown,
the traveller will next visit this tombmosque.
A, flight of steps leads to
the portal. The mosque is a small
oblong building, divided by 2 ranges
of 3 pointed arches resting on 2
columns. The pavement of coloured
stones is remarkably fine. Of the
coloured glass and the tracery which
adorned the windows little now remains.
To the N. is the tombchamber,
surmounted by a charming
dome. The exterior ornamentation,
with its network of arabesques, is
particularly graceful. Within the
precincts of the mosque, to the E., is
a smaller dome, doubtless the tomb of
some member of the Sultan's family,
with similar ornamentation. The
medresseh (college), okáleh, and other
accessory buildings, of which the
ruins remain, were celebrated in their
time. A considerable portion of the
almshouses adjoins the mosque to the
S., and a long inscription sculptured
in marble forms a frieze, of which a
part remains, recording the amount
that was to be devoted to the sakeeyeh,
or water-supply, &c.
The mother of Bursabey is said to
be buried beneath the dome to the
S.W. of the mosque.
The broad plain dome opposite the
mosque of El-Ashraf Bursabey is
called the Mábed er-Rafáee, and is the
burial-place of several members of the
family of that great saint. The dome is
much rent, and of the delicate tracery
of the windows but few relics exist.
Adjoining the latter, to the N., is
the so-called Tomb of the Seba Benát (seven maidens), for whose memory
a legend is now sought in vain.
There are several other mythical tombs
of these 7 maidens and their dog
(borrowed from the legend of “the 7
sleepers”), including a cavern in the
Mokattam hill.
The Tomb-mosque of Kaitbey (Gámah
Kaitbey
), about 1470 A.D. (see
p. 64), justly ranks as one of the
finest specimens of Cairo architecture.
The interior has been carefully restored
under the direction of Franz Pasha,
architect to the administration of
Wakfs. “Looked at externally or internally,
nothing can exceed the grace
of every part of this building. Its
small dimensions exclude it from any
claim of grandeur, nor does it pretend
to the purity of the Greek and some
other styles; but as a perfect model of
the elegance we generally associate
with the architecture of this people, it
is, perhaps, unrivalled by anything in
Egypt, and far surpasses the Alhambra
or the Western buildings of its
age.”—(Fergusson, Handbk. of Archit.,
p. 395.) The exterior is remarkable
for the beauty of the minaret, and the
elaborate lacelike sculpturing of its
well-constructed dome. The chief
entrance is to the N.E., where a flight
of steps conducts to the portal,
adorned with stalactite pendentives.
A passage leads to the Sáhn-el-Gamah which is paved with inlaid coloured
stones. The walls are similarly
adorned. The form of the interior
belongs to a type with which we become
familiar in visiting the mosques
of this period in Cairo. The Leewán is raised one step above the Sáhn, and
is separated from it by a spacious
pointed arch, returning below to the
horse-shoe shape. On the opposite
side is a similar arch. Above the
small side recesses of the Sáhn, N.
and S., rise 2 smaller arches of the
pointed shape. All 4 arches are constructed
with blocks alternately black
and white; the other portions of the
upper walls have been painted in
red and white stripes. The windows
and rosettes contain tracery of
exquisite patterns and coloured glass,
of which the greater part is modern.
From the Sáhn el-Gamah a passage

leads across to the Mausoleum, which
is to the S. of the Leewán. It is
crowned by the dome whose exterior is
so gracefully sculptured, with interior
pendentives descending very gradually
across the angles. The windows contain
tracery with blue glass, and others
with the cypress pattern and green
glass. The floor is handsomely paved
with black and white marbles. The
Tomb of Kaitbey is in front of the
kibleh. Near it, and on the opposite
side of the mausoleum, are 2 blocks of
stone, bearing the so-called impressions
of Mohammed's foot, which are said to
have been brought from Mecca by the
Sultan. They are veiled by small
curtains, and are respectively canopied
with little domes of bronze and wood.
In the S.W. corner is a tomb, said to
be that of a sister of Kaitbey. In
the S.E. is a wooden Koorsee.
The half-ruined Tomb of the Lady
Khawánd (es-Sitt Khawánd
), to the
S.W. of that of Kaitbey, contains some
fine specimens of decorations in stucco,
especially in the large vaulted niche
adjoining the dome to the N. The
dome itself is adorned with a broad
band of porcelain tiles, with an inscription
in large white letters upon a dark
ground. The same inscription is
painted round the interior of the dome,
while a verse of the Korán encircles
the central point. The name Khawánd is a title equivalent to the Turkish and
Persian hánem, which may be translated
“princess.” It is given to
several ladies of this period. The one
here commemorated is said to have
been a sister of Kaitbey.
The traveller who is not pressed for
time may well devote some time to a
notice of various other mausolea in this
great necropolis of Kaitbey. Several
are those of persons now unknown.
Of others the names alone remain.
Many of them present admirable examples
of dome architecture, in perhaps
its greatest perfection; and are models
of beauty as regards both form and
decoration. The sculpturing of the
exterior is in some cases exquisite.
Several are encircled by bands of porcelain,
containing inscriptions in white
letters upon a coloured ground. In
others, disks of blue porcelain figure
amongst the interstices of the variegated
moulding. None of the monuments
(situated in what has often been a
battle-ground) have remained intact,
and time is making sad havoc with
some of the most beautiful, as every
traveller notes with regret. It is satisfactory
that at last some effort is being
made to preserve these ancient monuments,
but it must be remembered that
the funds at the disposal of the Commission
are very limited.
Kaitbey contains a considerable
population living amongst the tombs,
and often within the enclosures of the
mosques. Looking down upon some
of these tenements in certain directions,
one is reminded of Pompeii; and the
place looks almost like some old town
unearthed from the dust of the ages.
During the Bairam the place is much
visited by families whose burial-places
are scattered here and there, and who
spend whole days on the spot. These
customs are alluded to elsewhere.
The traveller will notice the vast
Muslim Cemeteries which occupy the
vicinity of the Bab en-Nasr. In this
cemetery is the Tomb of Burckhardt,
the celebrated traveller, better known
in the East by the name of the
“Sheykh Ibrahim,” who died in Cairo
in 1817. For a long time the grave
remained unmarked; but in 1870 it
was rescued from oblivion by the late
Rogers Bey, then English Consul, and
Hekekyan Bey; and a handsome tomb,
with enclosure, in the Mohammedan
style, now marks the spot.
The desert tract N. of the citadel,
and outside the Bab el-Wizeer, is also
occupied by countless Muslim tombs.
II. The Tombe S. of Cairo (called the
“Tombs of the Memlooks”). Cemetery
of the Imám esh-Shaféeh. Mausolea
of the reigning family.
To the S.E. of Cairo lie the socalled
Tombs of the Memlooks, which
are also in a state of ruin, not one of
them remaining entire. The minarets
are models of beauty, and the domes
handsome and well constructed. The

traveller will do well to pause and examine
what remains of them, during
an excursion to the tombs near the
Imám esh-Shaféeh, or to the dervishes
of the Mokattam. The names and
the dates of their founders are uncertain;
but the names of Keyssoon,
Amneh bint-Abdallah (the mother of
Sultan Hassan), and of Mohammed
Bey Seydoon el-Agamee, are given to
those which are the most remarkable.
They belong to the period of the Baharite
Memlook Sultans.
To the S.W. of these, rising above
the tombs and dwellings that surround
it, will be seen the Tomb of the Imám
esh-Shaféeh
, founder of one of the four
orthodox sects of El Islám, who died in
A.D. 820 It is surmounted by a large
dome, with a weathercock in the form
of a boat. It is said to have been built
by Yoosef Sálah-ed-deen (Saladin),
whence, according to Pococke, it received
the name of es-Salahéeyeh. A
special order is required in order to
visit it. The interior is cased to a
height of 8 or 9 feet with marble, above
which the whole is coloured in recent
and unartistic style. The windows
contain coloured glass; and a “dim
religious light” pervades the building,
the sanctity of which prevents its being
suffered to fall into decay. There are
three principal niches, and a fourth
gives the true direction of Mecca. The
tomb of the Imaám is simple, the covering
being of brocade embroidered with
gold. It is enclosed by a wooden railing
inlaid with mother-of-pearl, the
corners being clasped with silver fittings.
At the head of the tomb is a
large turban, partly covered by a Cashmere
shawl. Near the head of the
tomb is a marble pillar, with sculptured
inscriptions, coloured red and gold.
From the roof are suspended a few
porcelain lamps; and lamps of glass, as
well as ostrich eggs, hang in profusion
from the canopy of the tomb and from
light wooden beams. The walls and
tomb enclosure are adorned with scrolls
of the usual style. There are four
other tombs of members of the Imám's
family.
Near the last-named is the Burialplace
of the Reigning Family
, consisting
of a long corridor and two chambers,
each covered by a dome. The attendants
of the mausoleum are extremely
civil, and ready to point out the tomb
and name of any of the numerous
members of the viceregal family that
are buried here.
Amongst the numerous tombs of
persons of distinction may be mentioned
that of Omar ibn el-Fárid, a
little tomb-mosque beneath Mokattam,
close to the mosque which clings so
picturesquely to the hill. Farther
away to the S. will be noticed the
minaret of the Gámah es-Sadát, the
burial-place of the great family of that
name. It is worthy of a visit, if time
permits. To the S. of the Imám esh-Shaféeh
is the mosque of the Bekreeyeh,
which is uninteresting. The pretty
minaret close to the aqueduct as it
approaches the Bab el-Karáfeh, with
the ruins of a mosque, is that of Mohammed
ez-Zúmur.
III. Christian Cemeteries.
These are close to Old Cairo , a little
to the N. of the aqueduct. The English
Cemetery
is farthest to the S. Next
to it is the Roman Catholic Cemetery;
and adjoining the latter is the Coptic,
Greek
, and Armenian Cemetery.
Not far from this point, upon the
second bridge which crosses the Khaléeg,
may be seen the Lions of Sultan
Záhir el-Baybers, rudely sculptured in
stone, in relief, on the S. side. The
Kantárat es-Sebáa, or “Bridge of the
Lions,” also of Baybers, was farther N.,
close to the mosque of the Seyyideh
Zeyneb; and the lions, which gave its
name to the bridge, and which were
mutilated by the fanatical Mohammed
Sáim ed-Dahr (who also mutilated the
sphinx) about the year 1378, finally disappeared
during the alterations made
by Abbas Pasha.
n. “SEBEELS,” OR PUBLIC FOUNTAINS
These are for the purpose of providing
water for the poor gratuitously.
They were formerly supplied with
water brought from the Nile on the
backs of camels, but are now supplied
by water from the pipes of the Cairo

Water Company. Some of those of
older date in the centre of the city
merit admiration as curious specimens
of the peculiarities of Oriental taste,
abounding in great luxuriance of ornament.
Many are to be seen in the
street which follows the course of the
Canal (Khaleeg), towards the gate of
Seyyideh Zeyneb. Of the more modern
fountains, built according to Constantinople
taste, those of Toossoon Pasha
and of Ismail Pasha, sons of Mohammed
Ali, and that near the station built by
the late Khedive's mother, are the best
specimens.
There is generally a room immediately
above the fountain devoted to
the purposes of a free day-school, maintained
by the same charitable foundation
as the fountain.
The drinking-places for cattle (hôd)
are also kept up by the same means, and
often have schools attached to them.
There are about 200 public fountains
in Cairo.
o. BATHS.
There are many baths in Cairo, but
none remarkable for size or splendour.
They are all vapour-baths; and their
heat, the system of shampooing, and
the operation of rubbing with horsehair
gloves, contribute not a little
to cleanliness and comfort, though it is
by no means agreeable to have to
undergo the operation of being shampooed
by the bathing-men. One of
the best known baths in Cairo is the
Hammám et-Talát, not far from the
Mooskee. The Tumbálee, near the
Bab esh-Shareeyeh in the N. part of
Cairo, is one of the largest, but it is less
clean and comfortable than many others,
and the company is by no means select.
There are also two rather good baths at
Boolak, those of the Sinaneeyeh and
the Sook el-Asr. One person, or a
party, may take a whole bath to themselves
alone, if they send beforehand
and make an agreement with the master.
In that case care should be taken to see
that the whole is well cleaned out, and
fresh water put into the tank or maghtas. You had always better use your own
towels, or promise an extra fee for clean
ones, which you cannot be too particular
in rejecting if at all of doubtful appearance.
As a rule, a bath is given up
to men exclusively in the morning, and
to women in the afternoon. In some
baths special days in the week are
devoted to women; and a few baths,
again, are devoted exclusively to men
or to women, as the case may be.
p. BAZAARS.
The principal bazaars may be conveniently
described in the order in
which the traveller can visit them in
the course of a walk beginning with
the Khán Khaléel.
The Khán Khaléel, or Khaléel,
was built by the Sultan el-Ashraf
Khaleel, of the Baharite Memlook
Dynasty (see p. 63) in A.D. 1292. It is
approximately on the site of the tombs
of the Khalifs of the Fatemite Dynasty.
It was considerably added to by El-Ghóree,
who built the large portal and
khan in the upper portion, as is shown
by an inscription over the entrance.
Here are sold cloth, dresses, swords,
silks, slippers, embroidered stuffs, carpets,
and other articles from Turkey,
Persia, &c. The two market-days are
Monday and Thursday, the sale continuing
from about 9 till 11 a.m. Various
goods are sold by auction, the appraisers
or delláls (dellaleen) carrying
them through the market, and calling
the price bid for them. Many things
may be bought at very reasonable prices
on these occasions; and it is an amusing
scene to witness from a shop, where, if
in the habit of dealing with the owner,
a stranger is always welcome, even
though in a Frank costume. Crowds
of people throng the bazaar, while the
delláls wade through the crowd, carrying
drawn swords, fly-flaps, silk dresses,
chain armour, amber mouth-pieces,
guns, and various heterogeneous substances.
Carpets will be found near the principal
entrance, opposite the Hassaneyn
Mosque, and in a court near the entrance
from the Sook en-Nahhaseen.
Within this khán is a square occupied
by dealers in copper and some
other commodities; and in a part called
“within the chains” are silks and other
Constantinople goods. Close to the

Khán el-Khaléel is the tomb of the
Sultan Negm ed deen Ayoub, of the
Ayoobite dynasty. He died in A.D.
1250.
From the Khán Khaléelee we pass
into the street called Sook en-Nahhaseen,
or Market of the Coppersmiths,
in which are the mosques of Kalaoon,
Berkook, and En-Nasr. The pipemakers
(shibookshee) are located here.
A low narrow gate leads from the
Sook en-Nahhaseen into the Sook es-Saeegh,
or Bazaar of the Gold- and
Silversmiths, where, however, the readymade
articles are, as a rule, of inferior
value and workmanship. It is better,
where time allows, to choose a pattern
and settle on the quality of the gold or
silver of which the article is to be
made, and what weight it is to be.
Everything is paid for according to its
weight, and the quality of the metal,
which is attested by a government
official always in attendance in the
bazaar, and 25 to 50 per cent. is added
for the workmanship. Close to this
bazaar is that of the Gohargeeyeh, or
jewellers.
On leaving this bazaar, we turn to
the left, cross the Mooskee into the
opposite street, along which we continue
to the first turning on the left, by
which we enter the Hamzówee, where
crape, silks, cloth, and other goods,
mostly of European manufacture, are
sold. The dealers are all Christians,
and it is therefore closed on a Sunday.
On the left of the Hamzówee is the
Sook el-Attáreen, where attar of roses
and various other perfumes, as well as
drugs and spices, are sold.
From this we pass by the Mosque of
El-Ashraf, into the broad street of the
Ghoreeyeh, a bazaar in which are sold
cotton and other stuffs, silks, and indeed
all sorts of articles.
A street almost immediately opposite
that by which we emerged from the
Sook el-Attáreen, leads to the Sook es-Soodán,
where ostrich eggs, Nubian
spears and arrows, and gum arabic, are
sold. And beyond this are the Booksellers and Bookbinders, close to the
Mosque of El-Azhar.
Retracing our steps to the Ghoreeyeh,
and turning down it to the left, we
reach the Sook el-Fahhámeen, the
bazaar of the charcoal sellers and the
abode of the Moghrebins, or Moors,
who sell blankets, Fez caps (tarabéesh),
bornooses (baranées), and other articles
from the Barbary coast.
Beyond this, on the same side, is the
Akkádeen, where silk-cord and goldlace
are bought. And behind there is
the market of the Moaiyud, where
cotton, wools, cushions, and beds of a
common kind, woollen shawls, and other
coarse stuffs worn by the lower orders,
are sold daily, both in the shops and by
auction.
Beyond the Sebéel, or fountain of
Toossoon Pasha, is the Sookereeyeh,
where sugar, almonds, and dried fruit
are sold; and this, like many other
names of streets, indicates the trade of
the dealers.
Passing through the Bab Zuweyleh,
with the Mosque of Moaiyud on the
right, we come to the Shoemakers'
Bazaar (Kassobet Radwán
), the last
in this direction. If, however, we continue
along the street to the Boulevard
Mohammed Ali, and turn up it to the
left, we may reach the open space in
front of the Mosque of Sultan Hassan,
and take the first turning on the left
into the once well-known Sook es-Sullah,
or arms market, where swords,
guns, and all kinds of weapons used to
be sold. This market, however, once
so picturesque, now presents but a sorry
appearance, as most of the shops have
been destroyed or have disappeared.
The best native arms shops are in the
Darb el-Ahmar, near the Bab Zuweyleh.
At the N. end of the town are the
Mergóosh and the Gemaleeyeh, wellknown
markets, at the former of which
cotton cloths called bafteh are kept,
and at the latter coffee and tobacco,
soap, and different goods imported from
Syria. At the Bab esh-Shareeyeh are
found fruits, candles, and a few other
things.
There are also markets held in some
parts of the town independent of the
shops in their neighbourhood, as the
Sook el-Goomah, held on a Friday (on
the way to the Bab el-Hadeed, at what
is called the Sook ez-Zullut), where

fowls, pigeons, rags, and any old goods
are sold; the Sook es-Semmak, or Sook
el-Fooateeyeh
, near the same spot,
where, as its first name implies, fish is
sold every afternoon; and the Sook el-Asser,
close to the Bab en-Nasr, where
secondhand clothes are sold by auction
every afternoon.
To introduce a list of the prices of
different articles sold in the bazaars
of Cairo, as they are so continually
changing, would only mislead. The
traveller who is ignorant of Arabic
must trust entirely to his dragoman
or donkey boy to take him to the
shop where he can procure what he
wants, and to make the bargain for
him. As a rule offer half what is
asked, and an agreement will probably
be arrived at midway between the two
extremes.
q. PALACES.
There is no old palace at Cairo; all
are of modern date. The principal
ones belonging to the reigning family
are: the Palace of Abdeen, generally
inhabited by the Khedive during the
winter, situated not far from the Esbekeeyeh;
the Palace of the Ismaileeyeh,
occasionally occupied by the Khedive;
the Palaces of the Citadel, already
mentioned; the Palace of Kasr-en-Neel,
just above Boolak, now occupied
as quarters for English officers of the
army of occupation; and the Palace of
Shoobra
, formerly belonging to Haleem
Pasha, and now occupied by Prince
Hassan Pasha, brother of the Khedive.
Among those built by the Khedive
Ismail are: the Palace of Gezeereh, on
the left bank of the river opposite
Boolak; the Palace of Geezeh, near
the village of that name opposite the
island of Roda; and two other palaces
close by built for his sons, Hoseyn and
Hassan; the Palace of Kooba on the
way to Matareeyeh; and the Palace at
Helwan.
The only palace that can be
visited is that of Gezeereh (p. 233).
r. SCHOOLS, LIBRARIES.
The University of El-Azhar has already
been mentioned in the notice of
the mosque of that name (p. 177).
The Government Public Schools,
founded by Mohammed Ali, though
neglected by his immediate successors,
have received a new impulse under the
late and present sovereigns. The civil
schools are divided into primary, secondary,
and special schools. In the
primary schools are taught the reading
and writing of Arabic, arithmetic, and
French, or some other foreign language.
Two or three years are passed in these
schools. In the secondary or preparatory
schools the subjects of study are
the Arabic, Turkish, French, and English
languages, pure mathematics, drawing,
history, and geography. Three years
are spent in this school, and the duly
qualified pupil then passes into one of
the following schools: Land Surveying
and Commercial School, two years; Law
School, four years; Polytechnic School,
four years; the Arts et Métiers School,
three years; and the Medical School.
The Preparatory School, the Polytechnic
School, the Law School, and the Commercial
School, are in the street called
the Darb el-Gamameez (Street of the
Sycamores), in a building attached to
the Ministry of Religion and Public
Instruction, the Arts et Métiers School
at Boolak, and the Medical School at
Kasr el-Ain. Attached to this last is
a school of midwifery for females. The
Free Schools attached in most instances
to the Sebeels, or public fountains, have
been already mentioned.
The Military School is at the Abbasseeyeh;
here is taught every branch
of military education.
The School for the Blind, established
by the present Khedive, is in the street
called the Mergoosheh, in the N.E. of
Cairo. An old house surrounding an
open court has been utilised, and fitted
up with all the necessaries for the
accommodation and instruction of the
pupils. The school is well worth
visiting, to see the beautiful window,
which is one of the best examples of
mushrebeeyeh existing in Cairo. Very
good woven stuffs in silks and cottons
are made by the inmates. The clean,
well-ordered appearance of the interior
will not fail to strike the visitor; and
the management and results obtained
do the greatest credit to the directors.
All the various Christian communities,
whether native or European,
have schools belonging to them.
Among them may be mentioned the
Coptic Schools in the Copt quarter,
near the cathedral; the Schools of the
Frères de l'Ecole Chrétienne
, close to
the Franciscan Church; the Greek
Schools
; the Armenian Schools; the
Schools of the American Mission, in
the Esbekeeyeh near Shepheard's Hotel,
which are among the best in Cairo;
and those which it will perhaps interest
English readers the most to see, Miss
Whateley's Schools
, near the Abbasseeyeh
road. The Coptic, the American,
and Miss Whateley's, are well
worth a visit; and the last two, which
are very much dependent on voluntary
contributions, should receive support
from all who can give it.
Formerly the only libraries at Cairo
were those belonging to the different
mosques, containing little else than
MS. copies of the Korán, and commentaries
thereon; but a Public Library has now been formed in a building
close to the Ministry of Religion and
Public Instruction above mentioned, at
Darb el-Gamameez, and in it have been
collected together the principal treasures
of the mosques, and many works in all
languages have been added. It is open
every day for 3 hrs. in the forenoon
and 3 in the afternoon, except Friday:
admission free. Every facility is provided
for studying and writing. Persons
wishing to consult the books must
obtain a certificate from their consul.
The great feature of the Library is
the magnificent collection of illuminated
copies of the Korán. One of
them is in the old Kufic character, and
is said to be nearly 1200 years old.
In one of the copies, dating from the
reign of Berkook, the first and last
pages have been restored, and an opportunity
is thus offered of comparing
ancient and modern Arabic penmanship,
greatly to the disadvantage of
the latter. There are several other
valuable MSS., some of them poems,
and numerous MS. works on grammar
and history, and religious commentaries.
The total number of volumes
is about 25,000.
s. MUSEUM OF EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES.
At Boolak, close to the river. Open
every day (except Friday), from 8.30
A.M. to 12 noon, and from 2 P.M. to
5 P.M.; admission free.
This museum contains, with the exception
of Historical Papyri, of which
it does not possess any at all equal to
those in the British Museum, the most
instructive and valuable collection of
Egyptian antiquities in the world; the
result, with very few exceptions, of
the indefatigable labours and researches
of Mariette Pasha and his successor M.
Maspero, who spent many years in
studying and excavating the old monuments
and ruins of Egypt. At the
accession of the Khedive Ismail in
1863, everything connected with old
Egyptian history was placed under the
charge of Mariette Pasha, and all
digging and excavating by others forbidden;
and as a result, the objects of
interest which formerly would have
enriched foreign museums or private
collections, are exhibited together in
the most appropriate place for their
study and examination, in the capital
of the country whose ancient history
they illustrate. Apart from the richness
and number of the articles it
contains, one great superiority enjoyed
by this museum over all others is that
the place whence every object comes
is accurately known; and, moreover,
any fragment, however small, which
seemed to possess any historic or scientific
interest, has been preserved.
All who wish to study and understand
the collection should purchase
M. Maspero's admirable and exhaustive
catalogue, but for the traveller who
has not much time at his disposal, the
following remarks on the general character
of the objects exhibited, and
short description of some of the most
remarkable of them, the substance of
which is taken from that catalogue,
may be of service. The numbers of the
objects are occasionally altered, which
may cause a little difficulty to visitors.
The objects in the museum may be
classed under 5 heads, viz. religious
monuments, funereal monuments, civil

monuments, historical monuments.
Greek and Roman monuments.
The religious monuments are found
in private houses, tombs, and temples.
Those found in private houses are
very rare, they consist chiefly in
statuettes of divinities worn as amulets,
in symbols which served for
female ornaments, and in ancestral
statues. Those found in the tombs
consist chiefly of stelæ or inscribed
tablets, and little statues of divinities
taken from the breasts of mummies.
Those found in the temples are the
most numerous; the principal kinds
among them are sacred boats, shrines,
sacred utensils, tables of offerings,
stelæ, statues of divinities.
The funereal monuments are found
in the tombs. They consist of sarcophagi,
mummy cases, stelæ, tables of
offerings, statues of private individuals,
canopic vases, scarabæi, and other
objects found on the mummies; furniture
of various kinds, arms, articles
of toilette, dress, food, &c.

Plan of Boolak Museum.

The civil monuments have also been
found chiefly in the tombs, and therefore
belong rather to the funereal
monuments; but, as they serve to
illustrate the private life of the ancient
Egyptians, it has been thought convenient
to give them the above name.
They consist of vases, arms, furniture,
tools, articles of toilette, dress, &c.
The historical monuments have been
found in the temples and tombs.
Those found in the temples are the
statues of kings, and stelæ. The tombs
have furnished the papyri, scarabæi,
stelæ, vases, &c., bearing the name of
some king by which a date might be
fixed.
The Greek, Roman, and Christian
monuments.
—These consist chiefly of
inscriptions, statues, pottery, and
bronzes. They are not very numerous,
and cannot compare with those in some
European museums.
In the following short description of
the Museum, Maspero's guide has been
followed, but as the arrangement is in a

transitive state, some of the objects may
not be found in the exact places where
they are here described, only the most
important objects have been alluded to.
1. The Court and Garden. — On
entering from the street, the buildings
of the Museum are on the right,
while on the left hand the court is laid
out as a garden, in which the most
conspicuous object is the tomb of
Mariette Pasha, the founder of the
Museum. The four sphynxes in front
of the sarcophagus were taken from
the grand avenue of sphynxes which
led to the tombs of the bulls at Sakkarah,
the first important discovery of
Mariette. The colossal statue behind
the tomb was found at Tanis, and
represents Rameses II. (see p. 50).
Mariette Pasha was born at Boulogne
in 1821. He began life as a professor
in that town, where his attention was
first turned to Egyptian antiquities by
a mummy case which was purchased
for the museum of the town. Having
studied the inscription on the case, he
was so interested in the subject that
he went to Paris to learn more of
archæology. After two years' study
he received an appointment to investigate
the manuscripts preserved in the
Coptic monasteries of Egypt, and proceeded
to that country in 1850. While
fulfilling the object of his mission, he
was some time in Cairo, and frequently
visited the great cemetery of Memphis,
which extends from Gheezeh to Sakkarah.
Here he commenced explorations,
and was rewarded by the discovery
of the Serapeum, or Tombs of
the Sacred Bulls (see p. 269). He
continued his researches for some years,
and in 1878 the Khedive Said Pasha
gave him the title of Bey, and authorized
him to found the Egyptian Museum
at Boulac, which, year by year,
was enriched by further discoveries.
He devoted the remainder of his life to
Egyptian researches, and died in Cairo
on the 17th January, 1882. He was
succeeded by M. Maspero, and the latter
worthily followed in the path marked
out by Mariette Pasha. M. Maspero
has lately resigned, and been succeeded
by M. Grébaut.
Among the various objects of interest
in the court we would notice the
sarcophagus of Psammiticus II. of the
XXVIth Dynasty. This was found at
Damanhour by Brugsch Bey, to which
place it had probably been brought from
Saïs, where, according to Herodotus,
the kings of this Dynasty were buried.
2. The Small Vestibule.—Here are
exhibited some sarcophagi belonging to
the period of the Greek Empire; one
of the most interesting is that of Ounoferis,
a priest of Osiris. Round the
walls are placed some of the stelæ, on
inscribed tablets, which add so much to
the importance of the Museum. Every
Egyptian tomb had at least one stela,
which indicated the name and family
of the deceased. Sometimes they were
painted or cut on the wall of the tomb,
but frequently they were separate slabs
of stone, which were cut like a European
grave-stone and then fixed in the
tomb. A large proportion of the stelæ come from Abydus, which was the most
favoured burial-place in Egypt, as
there, according to the traditions, the
great Osiris himself was entombed.
Mena also, the first known Egyptian
king, is believed to have been buried at
Abydus.
3. The Large Vestibule.—This hall
contains a large number of the stelæ found at Abydus. These belong principally
to the XIth, XIIth, XIXth, and
XXth Dynasties. A beautiful female
figure in alabaster, about 5 ft. high,
represents the Queen Ameniritis, daughter
of Kashta, and sister of Sorbacon
of the XXVth Dynasty. The statue
rests on a block of grey granite, upon
which the name and titles of the queen
are inscribed. It may interest some to
know that Sorbacon has been identified
with So, the king of Egypt,
alluded to in 2 Kings xvii. 4. This
figure was found at Karnak. One of
the votive stelæ found at Abydus shows
the lady Tanii asking favours of the
gods Osiris and Anubis.
4. The Western Hall.—Turning to
the left, we enter the Western Hall,
also containing a number of votive
stelæ, some of which have given valuable
information with regard to the
history of Egypt. A red granite slab
from Gebel-Barkal gives an interesting

account of the troubles from which
Egypt suffered in the XXVth Dynasty.
The date of the inscription is about
B.C. 740. It was at that epoch that
Pionkhi, king of the Ethiopians, taking
advantage of the disturbed state of
Egypt, invaded the Nile valley and
subdued the entire country. Among
the other objects in this hall a sphynx
of black granite from Tanis should be
noticed, which bears on its shoulder
an inscription containing the name of
the shepherd king Apopi of the XVIIth
Dynasty. Another stela of black
granite, found at Karnak, contains a
poem composed in celebration of the
victories of Thothmes III., of the
XVIIIth Dynasty, one of the most
famous of Egyptian kings. Of him it
is said in the hieroglyphics that he
placed his frontier wherever he pleased.
This stela relates his conquests in
Asia, in Phoenicia, and in Cyprus, and
also in the far-off regions of the Soudan.
This poem was so celebrated that it was
afterwards copied on other monuments
in praise of the victories of Sethi I.
and Rameses II.
5. The Central Hall.—The door of
red granite by which we pass from the
Vestibule into the Central Hall, came
from the Temple of Osiris at Abydus.
On the lintel are the cartouches of
Sethi I. of the XIXth Dynasty. At
the end of the hall, opposite the door, is
a statue of Khafra of the IVth Dynasty,
who built the second of the great
Pyramids near which it was found.
Not far from it is one of the most
remarkable statues at Boolak. It is
made of wood and is about 3 ft. 6 in.
high. It is not known who it is supposed
to represent, and as it strongly
resembled the Sheykh of the village of
Sakkarah, near which it was found, it
has been appropriately named “The
Sheykh el Beled,” or village Sheykh.
This and the statue of Khafra are two
of the oldest sculptured figures in
existence. The monstrous figure in
green serpentine just opposite the
“Sheykh el Belad” represents Apit,
who watched over the souls of the
just, and kept off evil spirits. This
was found at Thebes, in a chapel dedicated
to the Divinity by Queen Nitocris.
The glass case on the left of the
statue of Khafra contains some of the
best ancient Egyptian jewellery at
Boolak. A considerable part of it
was found in the coffin of Queen
Ahhotpou who was wife of one of the
kings of the XVIIth Dynasty. This
mummy had been found by the Arabs
who took many valuable articles out of
it before Mariette heard of the discovery.
The jewellery is most interesting,
being that actually worn by an
Egyptian queen more than three thousand
years ago. Among the most
remarkable articles in the case are:—
A double-hinged bracelet with gold
figures engraved on blue glass; a
large bracelet opening with a hinge;
an axe, the handle of cedar-wood,
covered with gold leaf, and ornamented
with lapiz-lazuli, cornelian and turquoise;
the axe-blade of gilt bronze
ornamented with designs, one of which
represents Amoris striking an enemy.
A very beautiful dagger in a sheath of
gold, ornamented with cornelian lapis-lazuli,
and feldspath; on the hilt are
four female heads in beaten gold; the
blade is of damascened bronze, ornamented
with figures on them representing
a lion springing upon a bull.
We would also call attention to a gold
chain with a scarabæus depending from
it, and a gold diadem which was found
on the hair of the mummy. There are
numerous other articles of great interest
in this case.
In an adjoining glass case is a very
good collection of scarabæi, some of
them bearing the names of the kings
of the IVth, Vth, and VIth Dynasties.
These scarabæi are of great interest to
those who wish to learn the cartouches
of the different kings, which may be
compared with those given at pp. 71-75.
It must be understood that a
scarabæus was not always made in the
reign of the king of whom it bears the
cartouche.
Other glass cases in this hall contain
a number of objects which illustrate
the domestic life of the Ancient Egyptians;
most of these were found in the
tombs, but some were dug up in the
ruins of towns. It was usual to bury
with the deceased the articles he used

in life, or models of them on a reduced
scale. The objects made of enamel and
of bronze should be noticed. There are
some interesting pieces of the former,
which were found at Tel el Yahoodeh
(see p. 280). A silver boat with ten
oarsmen and a pilot made in the time
of the XVIIth Dynasty should be
noticed.
The glass cases, A to I, in the Central
Hall contain the representation of
the Egyptian gods, and here the whole
Pantheon can be studied. It must be
understood that the Egyptian religion
underwent many changes in the five
thousand years that elapsed between
the Memphite kings of the IIIrd Dynasty
and the final collapse of the religious
system of the Nile Valley, and
certain gods were added from time to
time to the list of those worshipped.
Each town and county had its own
special divinities, to whom particular
reverence was paid; thus, Ra was
adored at Heliopolis, Phtah at Memphis,
Ammon at Thebes; and besides
the gods of the country, others were introduced
from abroad and found a place
in the Pantheon. For a fuller account
of the Egyptian religion, see p. 75.
The papyri in this part of the
Museum are noteworthy. One of
them, dating from the XXIInd Dynasty,
which was found in a tomb at
Dayr el Medeeneh at Thebes, contains a
curious dialogue between the clerk Ani
and his son Khonshotpou, in which the
former gives the latter counsel as to
his conduct in life, which reminds us
of the Proverbs of Solomon, but the
son appears to care but little about the
instructions of his father. Another
papyrus is a beautiful example of the
“Book of the Dead” written in the
XXth Dynasty.
6. Hall of the Ancient Empire.
Turning to the left out of the Central
Hall, we enter the Hall of the Ancient
Empire, which is almost entirely filled
with remains taken from the tombs in
the great cemetery that extends from
the Pyramids of Geezeh to Maydoom.
In examining the objects exposed in this
hall, it is well to remember the form of
the Egyptian tomb (see p. 87) which
usually consisted of: 1st, an exterior
chamber or chapel; 2nd, a passage or
well, leading to 3rd, the actual tomb
which contained the mummy. Of
these, the chapel was sometimes built,
sometimes cut in the face of a mountain.
The passage was sloping, or, in
the period from the IVth to the VIth
Dynasty, descended perpendicularly
The tomb was cut in the rock, and,
prior to the time of the XIXth Dynasty,
was left without any decoration.
The walls of the outside chapel, on the
contrary, were usually adorned with
paintings and sculptures, describing
the life of the deceased, his possessions
and his amusements. Of these many
good examples are preserved in the
Museum.
Some excellent specimens of these
will be seen in their actual position in
the tombs of Tih and Ptah-hotep at
Sakkarah (see p. 272). In some cases,
statues representing the deceased were
placed in the Mastaba or outer chapel,
and we would call attention to the
figures of Prince Rahotpu, and his
wife Nofrit, which are in the Hall of
the Ancient Empire. These were
found near the pyramid of Maydoom,
and probably belong to the period of
the XIIth Dynasty. In this hall there
are also some sarcophagi of the IVth
and Vth Dynasties.
7. The Hall of the Tombs.—Reentering
the Central Hall, we cross it
and find ourselves in the Hall of the
Tombs (see Plan, at p. 198). This
contains a large number of objects collected
from the ancient cemeteries of
Egypt. Most of these are arrayed in
glass cases. At one side of the hall is
a tomb of the XIth Dynasty which
was brought from Thebes, and erected
as an example of the tombs of the
XIth and XIIth Dynasties. This tomb
was built in honour of Horhotpu; the
inscription gives his name and that of
his mother.
In one case are exhibited all the
specimens that have been brought to
Boolak, of ancient Egyptian weapons,
and these come principally from the
Theban tombs of the XIth to XVIIth
Dynasties. There are very few implements
made of iron, which may be
accounted for partly by the fact that

the Egyptians regarded iron as an
unholy metal, and also because iron
decays so rapidly. Bronze is the metal
most frequently found.
Leaving the Hall of the Tombs, we
enter what will be to many the most
interesting portion of the Museum—
8. The Hall of the Royal Mummies. —The greater part of the Royal Mummies
here deposited were brought from
Dayr el Baharee in 1881. It would
appear that a great number of the
tombs of the kings had been opened at
some, at present, unknown period, and
removed to an excavation at Dayr el
Baharee. The hiding-place was discovered
by the inhabitants of one of
the villages near Thebes, who sold
them piecemeal. Fortunately M. Maspero
heard of the matter, and after
some trouble, succeeded in getting
hold of and removing to Boolak Museum,
the mummies which were left by
the Arabs. It has not been possible to
arrange the mummies in chronological
order; the most precious of them are
placed behind the pillars in the Hall of
Mummies, and the remainder along the
walls on the west side of the hall. Of
all the mummies, probably the most
interesting are those of Sethi I. and
Rameses II. both of the XIXth Dynasty,
two of the greatest kings of
Egypt. Sethi I. extended his conquest
into Asia, and Rameses II. was probably
the greatest king that ever ruled
Egypt. It was probably this monarch
who oppressed the Israelites, as recorded
in the book of Exodus. Another interesting
mummy case is that of the
Queen Ahhotpu, whose jewellery we
have already alluded to.
9. The Hall of the Greeks and
Romans.
—Compared to the amount of
objects belonging to the times of the
Egyptian Empire, the Grecian and
Roman remains are less remarkable, but
these are being added to from day to
day, and there are already a considerable
number of inscriptions, some
statues, and a fair collection of pottery
and bronzes. One inscription deserves
special notice. It is a decree issued in
the city of Canopus in honour of king
Ptolemy Energetis I. (see p. 54), and
is written in hieroglyphics, in the
demotic character and in Greek. It is
hardly necessary to remind the traveller
that it was a similar inscription which
first gave Young the clue to the reading
of the hieroglyphics. There is another
good example of the Decree of Canopus
in the Museum of the Louvre in Paris.
Some inscriptions dating from the days
of the early Christian church in Egypt
are interesting. There are also in this
hall some good statues and busts in
stone and in terra-cotta.
We now return to Egyptian antiquities,
entering
10. The Eastern Hall.—The stelæ in this room are not arranged in
chronological order, they have been
brought from Abydus, Thebes, Memphis,
and towns in Lower Egypt. The
most important is a long slab which
was found in a tomb at Sakkàrah, containing
a list of the kings of Egypt
from the IVth to XIXth Dynasties.
The list is carelessly written, and many
of the names are wrongly spelt, but it
is very important as a means of comparison with the lists in the Tables of
Abydus and Karnak.
After a few hours spent in the Boolak
Museum, the visitor will be glad to
refresh himself by a glance at the
beautiful river which flows close under
the court-yard.
t. MUSEUM OF ARABIC ANTIQUITIES.
It has already been pointed out that
in the Mosque of Hakim (see p. 175), a
Museum of Arabic Antiquities has been
established. To some travellers this
will prove of nearly as great interest as
the Boolak Museum. A visit to it
might be combined with the ride to the
Tombs of the Khalifs (see p. 189).
The Museum is in a temporary
building on the S. side of the mosque.
It is usually open to the public on
Mondays, and an order can be obtained
without difficulty from the Administration
of the Wakf opposite the
Abdeen Palace. Thanks to the efforts
of the late Rogers Bey and to Franz
Pasha, the architect of the Wakfs, a
most valuable collection of treasures of
Arab art has been formed
The entrance is at the W. end of the
building. The door opens into a long

passage which runs the entire length
of the building, on either side of which
are arranged some excellent specimens
of mushrabeeyeh work and wooden
mosque doors, while from the ceiling are
hung some curious brass mosque lamps.
Turning to the left into the first
room of the museum, we find some
Greek and Roman remains, and also
some interesting Kufic inscriptions.
The second room contains a number of
mosque chandeliers and two brass
tables of very beautiful workmanship,
which were brought from the Mosque
of Kalaoon (see p. 179).
In the third room is a superb collection
of glass lamps of great rarity;
four of these have been lent by the
Khedive to the South Kensington
Museum. These lamps were probably
made in Cairo, or at Mansoorah, which
was formerly famous for its glass works.
Some of the best of these were made
for the great mosque of Sultan Hassan
(see p. 175). and have the name of this
king beautifully worked in coloured
transparent letters on a light ground.
In the next room are some carved ivory
bookstands divided into compartments
of a curious shape, and some doors
inlaid with ivory. The mosque chandeliers
exhibited in this room are of a
good character.
The establishment of this museum
has prevented the loss to Egypt of
many specimens of Arab art. To
those who are interested in such things,
we would remark that the house at
present occupied by the Consul-General
of France is quite a museum of Arab
antiquities. Sometimes, when the
family is away, it is shown to visitors.
u. HOSPITALS AND BENEVOLENT SOCIETIES.
The Egyptian General Hospital is
situated on the banks of the Nile,
between Old Cairo and Boolak. It is
very large, and has the advantage of a
garden and open spaces. An English
physician, Doctor Milton, is in charge
of it, and under his supervision it has
wonderfully improved. He is assisted
by native doctors educated abroad, or
in the School of Medicine at Kasr
el-Ain. There is a hospital named
the Victoria Hospital under the charge
of the Deaconesses of Kaiserwerth,
which is kept in admirable order.
Paying patients are received at different
rates according to the accommodation
given. Full particulars can be obtained
from Doctor Murison, who lives over
the English Consulate, close to Shepheard's
Hotel.
There are various charitable societies,
destined for the relief of indigent
Europeans of different nationalities.
v. THEATRES, AMUSEMENTS, ETC.
The Opera House, a handsome looking
building in the Esbekeeyeh, was
erected in the short time of five months
in the summer of 1869, in order to be
ready for the fêtes at the opening of
the . The interior is well
and comfortably arranged, and the
foyer a remarkably large and well
proportioned room for the size of the
house. The performances here used to
be very good, as the government gave a
large subvention, which is now stopped.
It is not much used at present.
There is an open-air theatre in the
Esbekeeyeh Gardens, where an Italian
company generally performs during
the summer. Both English and Egyptian
military bands frequently play in
the kiosque to the N.W. of the gardens;
and Arab and Turkish music is to be
heard in the kiosques and café to the
S.W.
There are several cafés in various
parts of the town, where musical
performances are given, but these are
not to be recommended.
w. COLLEGES OR MONASTERIES OF
DERVISHES.
The dervishes (darweesh, pl. daraweesh)
are both the monks and the
freemasons of the East. They are
divided into innumerable sects and
orders; the principal Egyptian orders,
with their subdivisions, are:—
1. The Rifáeeyeh, founded by the
Seyyid Ahmed Rifáee; its members
carry black banners, and wear black,
dark blue, or dark green turbans. The
chief sects of this order are: (a) The
Saadeeyeh, founded by Saad ed-Deen

el-Gibawee; they carry green banners,
and wear turbans of the same colour,
or of the dark hue of the Rifáeeyeh
in general. The members of this
sect perform some curious ceremonies
and do various snake-charming feats.
(b) The Ilwáneeyeh or Oolád Ilwán go through remarkable performances
at festivals, such as thrusting nails
into their eyes and bodies, eating live
coals and glass, breaking stones on
their chests, &c.
2. The Kadreeyeh, founded by Abd-el-Kader
el-Ghilánee, who was the
guardian of the tomb of Aboo Haneefeh,
the founder of one of the four
orthodox sects of Islam, at Baghdad.
Their performances consist in shrieking
or howling. The banners and turbans
are white. Most of the members are
fishermen, and carry nets of various
colours in processions.
3. The Ahmedeeyeh, founded by
Sheykh Ahmed el-Bedawee; its banners
and turbans are red. The chief
sects of this order are: (a) The Beiyoomeeyeh,
known by their long hair;
(b) the Shinnáweeyeh, and (c) the
Oolád Nooh, all young men, who wear
high caps with tufts of coloured cloth
on the top, and strings of beads across
their breasts, and carry wooden swords
and a thick-corded whip. The Shinnáweeyeh
and the Oolád Nooh play an
important part in the ceremonies at
Tantah in honour of their founder
(see p. 152).
4. The Barámeeyeh or Burhameeyeh,
founded by Sheykh Ibrahim ed-Dessookee;
its banners and turbans are green.
The great festival of its members is at
Dessook (see p. 146).
Besides these orders, there are others
that exist in Egypt, though not originally
founded there. Of these the
principal is that of
The Mowloweeyeh (in Turkish Mevlevi),
the largest of all the orders,
founded by the Mowla (Môla) Jeláled-deen
er-Roomee, of Balkh, in
Persia, who died at Koniah about
1273 A.D. (672 A.H.), and was the
author of the celebrated mystic poem,
the Methnevi Shereef. The Mowloweeyeh
have come to be considered
the most aristocratic of the Dervish
orders, and most of the Sultans have
of late been enrolled as members
of the order. Their headquarters are
at Koniah, in Asia Minor, the office
of sheykh being hereditary in a family
of the name of Shélebee. The performances
of the Mowloweeyeh consist
in dancing, or rather whirling. Among
other orders may be mentioned:
The Nakshibendéeyeh, founded by
Mohammed Nakshibendee, a contemporary
of Othman I. The Bektasheeyeh,
founded by Hadji Bektash,
of Khorassan, who lived for some
years at the court of Orkhan I.; in
connection with the Janissaries they
played an important part in Turkish
history. The Gulsheneeyeh, founded
by Sheykh Ibrahim Gulshenee, who
died at Cairo, A.D. 1533. The Bekreeyeh. The Afeefeeyeh. The Demirdasheeyeh,
&c.
Most of the dervishes are tradesmen,
artisans, or fellaheen, &c., and only
assist occasionally at the ceremonies
of their order, but others make it their
occupation to perform at festivals,
funerals, &c. These last are called
fakeers, and often lead a wandering
life, subsisting on alms. Their dress
is usually a patchwork coat (dilk) of
many colours, and they carry a staff
with strips of different coloured cloths
fastened to the top. Dervishes are
not forbidden to marry.
The religious exercises of the dervishes
consist in the performance of
zikrs. The chief features of these
zikrs are continued invocations of
Allah, accompanied by a motion of
the head, or of the whole body, or of the
arms; and the performance of a dance.
There are several colleges or monasteries
(tekkeeyehs) of the different
orders in Cairo, which the traveller
who has time may find an interest in
visiting, and many will no doubt
be anxious to see the performances
of the dancing and the howling
dervishes.
The Monastery of the Dancing or
Whirling Dervishes
(Tekkeeyeh Mowloweeyeh)
is in the Helmeeyeh. Their
performance usually takes place on
Friday, except during Ramadan, at

2 P.M., in the mosque called Gámah
el-Akbar, not far from the Mosque of
Sultan Hassan, a square building surmounted
by a dome, the floor of which
is of smooth boarding. The inner
portion is partitioned off by a wooden
railing, forming a circular space in
which the zikr takes place. No
permission is necessary to enter. A
small backsheesh should be given on
leaving. The performance is monotonous,
and few will probably care
to stay it out.
The sheykh of the order first enters
the room (which is called the Semah
Khaneh
), and takes his seat upon a
coloured sheepskin, and is followed
by the dervishes, generally about 11
or 13 in number, who, after making
an obeisance to their sheykh, seat
themselves to his left. In a gallery
(of which a portion screened by latticework
is devoted to harems) are seated
the musicians, whose instruments consist
of the flute ( nay ) and tambourines.
A mystic poem, called the Naat-esh-Shereef
(the Holy Hymn), in praise of
the Prophet and breathing divine love,
is first chanted; after which the dervishes,
headed by their sheykh, walk
slowly round the hall three times,
pausing and bowing reverently before
the prayer-carpet (seggádeh) of their
chief, which represents also that of
the spiritual founder of their order.
They again take their seats, and the
sheykh repeats a prayer. The dervishes
then rise and divest themselves
of their cloaks or outer robes, and,
with arms folded across their breasts,
pass in order before their sheykh,
making a profound obeisance both to
the right and to the left of his seggádeh. Then each in turn begins slowly
to revolve, mainly upon the left foot,
the arms being extended with the
palm of the right hand upwards, and
that of the left downwards. One of
the fraternity (called the Semah Zan)
passes amongst the performers to direct,
if necessary, their movements, as they
spin noiselessly round, their skirts,
slightly weighted below, standing out
in bell shape, but never touching each
other. The music increases in loudness
as the zikr proceeds. After some
minutes the movements cease, and the
dervishes, without their sheykh, again
march slowly round the enclosure.
The strange dance is then repeated
twice, with a similar interval: the
music all the while continuing. The
dervishes then resume their cloaks and
seat themselves; and the Semah Zan,
stepping forward, repeats aloud in
Turkish a prayer, in which supplication
is made for the reigning sultan
The dervishes then utter a prolonged
“Hoo” (i.e. “He,” the One God), and
leave the building preceded by their
sheykh.
The principal College or Monastery
of the Howling Dervishes
(Tekkeeyeh
Kadreeyeh
) is at Kasr-el-Ain, on the
banks of the Nile, on the road to old
Cairo, adjoining the Hospital and
School of Medicine. Their performance
takes place every Friday, from
2 to 3 P.M.
The sheykh (whose office is hereditary)
takes his seat in front of the
Kibleh, or Mecca niche, and the dervishes
seat themselves in a large semi-circle.
After a short prayer by the
sheykh or his deputy, the dervishes repeat
together in a loud voice the name
of Allah, and also the profession of the
Muslim faith that relates to the Unity
of God (La iláha il Alláh). They
then rise to their feet and repeat the
same and other formulæ, bowing their
heads backward and forward at each
repetition. Many of them wear long
hair, which streams in masses to and
fro, and adds much to the strangeness
of the scene. The deep guttural voices
wax louder and louder, and the movements
become more and more violent
as the zikr proceeds. To the left of
the sheykh's mat (seggádeh) are the
musicians, who accompany the zikr
and stimulate the energy of the performers
with the notes of the flute,
a long horn, and the beating of large
tambourines and small metal drums,
which they strike with a piece of
leather. After a fatiguing and long-sustained
zikr the dervishes resume
their seats, or remain standing, while
the sheykh offers up a prayer in an
audible voice. They then repeat the
word “Hoo” (He), and after kissing

the hand of their sheykh, quit the
chamber, which is a square building,
surmounted by a dome, upon the walls
of which are suspended some of the
weapons and symbols of the order.
Those who can spend one Friday
only in Cairo will find it possible, as
a rule, to be present at both the Whirling
and Howling Dervishes' performances
by driving first to the Whirlers
and witnessing a portion only of their
zikr.
The following Dervish monasteries
are also well worthy of a visit to those
interested in the history and institutions
of the various orders as represented
in Egypt. They belong to
fraternities that are chiefly Turkish
and Asiatic, and which number few if
any Egyptians amongst their members.
The Tekkeeyeh en-Nakshibendéeyeh, in the Habbanéeyeh or Darb el-Gamameez.
This is a monastery built
by Abbas Pasha for the order of
Nakshibendee dervishes resident in or
visiting Cairo. It forms a quadrangle
enclosing a small garden with a
Hanaféeyeh for ablution in the centre.
There are separate rooms, or cells, for
the accommodation of fifteen or twenty
members. The hall for prayer and
the silent, or meditative zikr, are on
the N. side: the walls being adorned
with scrolls and inscriptions in Persian
and Arabic characters. The chamber
of the sheykh is on the E., and his
house on the S. side of the building.
The Tekkeeyeh Habbanéeyeh, in the
street called by the same name, and not
far from the last named. This institution,
as well as the sebeel and school
adjoining, was built by Sultan Mahmoud
II., and is not so much a dervish
tekkeeyeh, in the proper sense of the
word, as a training college for those
devoted to religious learning.
Ascending a flight of steps, you find
yourself in a quadrangular open court
surrounded by an arcade formed by
marble columns, into which look the
cells of the students, who may generally
be seen reading or chanting
within. The centre of the court is
planted with trees and shrubs, in the
midst of which is the place of ablution
shaded by a cupola supported by
marble columns. The peaceful aspect
of the place contrasts remarkably with
the bustle of the outer street.
The Tekkeeyeh Gulshenee. This
is situated near the S. side of the
mosque of Moaiyud, near the Bab
ez-Zuwéyleh. Ascending a flight of
steps and turning to the left, you
enter a peculiar but picturesque retreat.
The building forming the
tekkeeyeh encloses, as usual, an open
court, of which the greater portion is
raised considerably above the level
upon which you stand, and is spread
with mats and carpets. In the midst
stands a small square building containing
the tomb of the sheykh, and supporting
a whitewashed dome. The
whole of the N. façade of this mausoleum
is encased with coloured tiles of
various patterns somewhat promiscuously
arranged.
The Tekkeeyeh el-Magháwrée, on
Gebel Mokattam. This is the retreat
of the Bektáshee dervishes, and should
by all means be visited. It is situated
to the E. of the tombs of the Memlooks:
and just behind the modern
buildings of the Military Arsenal
behind the Citadel, and on the right
hand of the road up the Mokattam
Hills. The tekkeeyeh projects from
the hill, and may be distinguished from
afar by a bank of verdant foliage with
which it is fronted. Ascending a long
flight of steps, and passing through a
small garden, you enter the tekkeeyeh
which has lately been rebuilt for the
dervishes by the Khedive and some
of the princesses. The hall for the
devotions of the members, the rooms
of the sheykh, and the sumptuous
kitchen may be inspected. The sheykh
of the order, and the other members of
the fraternity, are most polite and
hospitable.
The small open court of the tekkeeyeh
leads into an ancient quarry
similar to those of Toora and Masárah,
and penetrating the rock for more
than 200 ft. A pathway of matting
enclosed by a wooden railing leads to
the innermost recess, where lies buried
the Sheykh Abdallah-el-Magháwree,
i.e. of the Grotto or Cave (Maghára)

His original name was Keighoosooz,
and he was a native of Adalia. Sent
as deputy sheykh to Egypt to propagate
the doctrines of the fraternity,
he settled there and took the name of
Abdallah.
x. FESTIVALS AND FASTS.
The Egyptian Festivals and Fasts
may be classed under three heads, (I.)
Coptic, (II.) National, (III.) Mohammedan.
As nearly all are seen to
better advantage at Cairo than elsewhere,
and indeed many can be seen
nowhere else, a description of them
may fitly be introduced here.
I. Coptic Festivals and Fasts.
These are celebrated according to the
(Coptic) solar year, which consists of
12 months of 30 days each; 5, and on
every fourth, or leap, year, 6 intercalary
days, called Nasi, being added at
the close. The 1st day of the first
month, Toot, coincides with our 11th
September. The following are the
Coptic months, together with the corresponding
months of the Gregorian
calendar:—
1. Toot begins 11th September.
2. Babeh begins 11th October.
3. Hatoor begins 10th November.
4. Kyáhk begins 10th December.
5. Toobeh begins 9th January.
6. Amsheer begins 8th February.
7. Barmahát begins 9th March.
8. Barmoodeh begins 8th April.
9. Bashans begins 8th May.
10. Baooneh begins 7th June.
11. Abéeb begins 7th July.
12. Misreh begins 6th August.
Nasl begins 5th to 9th Sept.
The Copts date from the “era of
martyrs” (the 2nd year of Diocletian,
284 A.D.): and their leap-year immediately
precedes our own. Thus
the 1st of the Coptic year. 1604 coincides
with the Gregorian 11th September,
1887. In the years corresponding
to the Gregorian leap years,
and the two years following, the 1st
day of Toot is the 10th instead of the
11th September. The Coptic calendar
is used in Egypt in all matters relating
to the rise of the Nile.
The following are the principal
Festivals:—
The Eed el-Milád (Festival of the
Nativity). The Coptic Christmas (29th Kyáhk) is celebrated with rejoicings.
Services are held, as also
during the night preceding, in the
churches. New clothes are worn, and
amusements provided for children, as
in the Muslim festivals. Alms are
distributed to the poor; and visits are
made to the tombs of relatives.
The Eed el-Ghitás (Festival of the
Immersion or Baptism) commemorates
the baptism of Christ, and is celebrated
on the 11th of Toobeh (18th or 19th
January). The eve of this festival,
called the Leylet el-Ghitás, was
formerly observed with great festivities;
the banks of the Nile being
crowded, and tents erected. The
Copts, having poured holy water into
the Nile, plunged into the stream. At
present this, like many other customs,
is but little observed at Cairo. But a
visit should be made to one of the
Coptic churches, either in Cairo or in
Old Cairo , where the custom is still
kept up, young men or boys plunging
into a reservoir, if one exists in the
church, and the priest washing the
feet of the congregation
The Eed el-Bishárah (F. of the
Annunciation) is observed on the 29th
of Barmahát (6th of April).
The Eed esh-Shaaneen (F. of the
Palm Branches). Palm Sunday, the
next before Easter, is a great day of
rejoicing. Travellers should visit the
Coptic Cathedral in the quarter N. of
the Esbekeeyeh about 9 A.M. Here
an interesting scene presents itself
during and after the morning service.
The Copts cut the long leaves of the
palm branches into strips and form
them into various cleverly-devised
patterns, crosses, stars, &c. Many
of them enclose the bread, or small
round cakes, of the Eucharist in baskets
of leaves thus interwoven.
The Eed el-Kiámeh (F. of the Resurrection)
or Easter, which is also
called the Eed el-Kebéer, or Great
Festival, is, as the latter name implies,
the chief occasion of festivity among
the Copts. Prayers are performed in

the churches on the eve of the festival.
The day is observed with the
usual rejoicings. Alms are given, new
clothes worn, &c.
The Eed es-Sooód (F. of the Ascension)
is also observed with prayer and
rejoicing, as is
The Eed el-Ansarah, or Whitsunday.
There are several minor Eeds, such
as the Eed es-Salib (F. of the Cross),
once a great festival, but now scarcely
observed, on the 17th of Toot (26th or
27th September): the Khamees el-Ahd (Maundy Thursday): and the
Eed er-Rosool (F. of the Prophets), on
the 5th of Abéeb (11th July).
The Copts observe numerous Fasts. Their Lent or Great Fast (Sôm el-Kebéer)
was formerly of 40, and is
now of 55, days, broken only by the
Festivals that occur during that period,
and ending on Easter eve.
Their other Fasts are the Sôm el-Milád
(Fast of the Nativity) of 28
days, ending on Christmas eve: the
Sôm el-Ghitás (Fast of the Baptism),
commonly called Baramóon, of one,
two, or three days' duration, preceding
the Eed el-Ghitás: the Sôm er-Rosool
(Fast of the Apostles), which begins
after the Eed es-Sooód and ends on
the 5th of Abéeb; and the Sôm el-Adra (Fast of the Virgin), of 15 days preceding
the Festival of the Assumption.
Those who fast abstain from all
meat-food; and partake of bread, vegetables
and oil. Coffee is also taken.
The Copts are also enjoined to fast on
every Wednesday and Friday except
during the Khamaseen, i.e. from Easter
to Pentecost.
(II.) Egyptian or National Festivals. These festivals, which are observed
according to the (Coptic) solar year,
may be divided into two classes—(a)
those which have reference to the
seasons, and are obviously in many
cases survivals of ancient Egyptian
festivals, and which are joined in alike
by all creeds; and (b) those in honour
of some Egyptian (Mohammedan or
Coptic) saint.
(a) Festivals of the Seasons
The Shem en-Neséem, or “Smelling
of the Zephyr,” a general and very
popular holiday, which is observed on
the Easter Monday of the Coptic
Church. Egyptians of all classes resort
to the open country, or to any gardens
or pleasure-grounds within easy reach,
believing that if they inhale the fresh
air on this day they will be preserved
in good health during the ensuing
year. Following some ancient custom,
many women bruise an onion and
suspend it on the outer door of their
houses. All Cairo, with its vicinity,
is filled with bright and cheery groups
of women and children in gay attire.
The blossoms of henna and flowers of
all kinds are in great demand, and
abundantly supplied. Many families
organize picnics and spend the whole
day in the fields and gardens. With
the Shem en-Neséem begins the period
called the Khamaseen, which has given
its name to the hot dry wind that is
liable to blow during this season of the
year. The Mohamedans observe the
Shem en-Neséem on the first and two
following days of the Spring Quarter,
at the time of the Vernal Equinox (i.e.
at the Noróz es-Sultánee or Royal New
Year's day, as adopted from the Persian
calendar).
The Leylet en-Nuktah (Night of
the Drop) was formerly an important
anniversary, but is now little observed.
On the night of (i.e. preceding) the
11th of the Coptic month Baoónah (June 17th), a miraculous drop (the
tear of Isis) is believed to fall upon
the waters of the Nile at a moment that
was of old precisely calculated by astrologers.
Many persons still spend a part
of the night on the banks of the river.
Formerly various superstitious beliefs
were connected with the examination,
on this anniversary, of the weight
and quality of a clod of the Nile mud.
The Festival of the Cutting of the
Canal
(Yôm wáfá el-bahr , or en-Neel,
or Mosim el-Khaleeg), which takes
place at old Cairo at the entrance
of the Khaleeg, is a ceremony of
great importance, and looked upon
with feelings of great rejoicing, as the
harbinger of the blessings annually

bestowed upon the country by the
Nile. The time fixed for cutting the
dam depends of course on the height
of the river, but is generally between
the 5th and 16th of August. The
ceremony is performed in the morning
by the Governor of Cairo, or his deputy.
The whole night before this, the booths
on the shore and the boats on the river
are crowded with people, who enjoy
themselves by witnessing or joining
the numerous festive groups. The
Governor of Cairo and other high
officials have marquees pitched along
the N. bank of the Khaleeg, and ask
their friends to witness the ceremony.
Travellers who are in Cairo in August
should ask for leave to view it from
one of the tents. Towards morning
the greater part either retire to some
house to rest, or wrap themselves up
in a cloak and sleep on board the boats,
or upon the banks in the open air.
About eight o'clock A.M. the Governor,
accompanied by troops and his attendants,
arrives; and on giving a signal,
several peasants cut the dam with hoes,
and the water rushes into the bed of
the canal. In the middle of the dam
is a pillar of earth, called Arooset en-Neel,
“the Bride of the Nile,” which
a tradition pretends to have been substituted
by the humanity of Amer for
the virgin previously sacrificed every
year by the Christians to the river-god.
While the water is rushing into the
canal, the Governor throws some silver
to the men who have been employed
in cutting the dam, who swim about
with great skill in the rushing water.
It occasionally happens that some
swimmer, less able to withstand the
strength of the current, is carried away
and drowned. As soon as sufficient
water has entered it, boats full of
people ascend the canal, and the crowds
gradually disperse, as the Governor
and the troops withdraw from the
busy scene.
b. Egyptian Saints' Festivals
Moolid Sheykh Ahmed el-Bedawee. —This, the most celebrated and perhaps
the most characteristic national
festival and fair in Egypt, is held
at Tantah three times a year, in
January, April, and August, in honour
of Sheykh Ahmed el-Bedawee. A
description of them is given in the
account of Tantah (p. 152).
The Moolid Sheykh Ibrahim ed-Dessookee is held at Dessook (p. 146),
after each of the Tantah festivals, and
is followed by
The Moolid Sheykh Aboo Rish at
Damanhoor.
The Moolid Sheykh Embábeh is
annually celebrated in June, at the
period of the Leylet en-Nuktah, at
the village of Embábeh, on the W.
bank of the Nile, opposite Boolak.
It is in honour of the Sheykh Embábeh,
who there lies buried. Those
who have not had the opportunity of
witnessing one of the larger festivals
in Cairo will do well to pay a visit to
Embábeh on the night of the Drop.
The Moolid el-Beiyoómee. This is
a very extensive and remarkable fair
and dervish festival, which is held
annually in the early part of October.
The scene of the fête is the portion of
the desert bordering on the Abbasseeyeh
road, immediately N. of the Bab
el-Hassaneeyeh. It is in honour of
the Seyyid Ali el-Beiyoómee, founder
of the great sect of Beiyooméeyeh dervishes
(a branch of the Ahmedeeyeh),
whose memory is much respected in
Egypt. All the characteristics of
the Moolid en-Nebbee, are here repeated.
The Moolid el-Afeefee. This is also
a remarkable festival, always celebrated
immediately after that of Beiyoómee.
The scene is the E. district
of the Tombs of the Circassian Memlooks,
in which is the tomb of Afeefee,
the founder of a large sect of Cairene
dervishes. Here amongst the tombs
are pitched innumerable tents, and
country people from all parts of Egypt,
including many Bedaween, encamp
around. The moolid lasts, as usual,
8 days; and is of the usual festive and
semi-religious kind.
The Moolid es-Sitt Dimiáneh (F. of
the Lady Dimiáneh), one of the chief
saints of the Coptic Church, is celebrated
on the 12th of Bashans (19th
May) at a convent dedicated to her in
a N.E. district of the Delta. It may

be reached by taking the rail to Mansoorah,
and donkey to the spot itself.
The moolid lasts 8 days, and brings
together a vast number of Copts. Innumerable
tents are pitched, and the
usual accompaniments of a fair are to
be found. Numerous legends are associated
with the place, which is specially
celebrated for the supposed cure of
demoniacs, who are brought here during
the festivals.
(III.) Mohammedan Festivals, &c. As these are celebrated according to
the Mohammedan lunar year, no dates
according to the European computation
of time can be given. The Mohammedan
year consists of 12 lunar
months, and is therefore about 11
days shorter than the Gregorian year.
The months of the Mohammedan year
are as follows:—
1st Moharrem 1305, is 18th Sept., 1887.
1st Saffer 1305, is 18th Oct., 1887.
1st Rabi Awel 1305, is 16th Nov., 1887.
1st Rabi Akher 1305, is 16th Dec., 1887.
1st Gumad Awel 1305, is 14th Jan., 1888.
1st Gumad Akher 1305, is 12th Feb., 1888
1st Regeb 1305, is 13th Mar., 1888
1st Shaaban 1305, is 12th Apr., 1888
1st Ramadan 1305, is 11th May, 1888
1st Showal 1305, is 10th June, 1888
1st Zilcada 1305, is 9th July, 1888
1st Zillegeh 1305, is 8th Aug., 1888
1st Moharrem 1305, is 1306 7th Sept., 1888
The Mohammedan day always begins
at sunset, not at midnight, so
that what we would call the night
of the 6th of the month they would
call the night of the 7th. It is very
important to remember this. The
Mohammedan month begins at sunset
on the day when the new moon is
visible at or before sunset. It does
not therefore always agree with the
commencement of the lunar month
according to exact astronomical calculations,
and it may happen that the
month will begin on a different day
in two different countries. For Mohammedans,
the two important months
are Ramadán, the month of the Fast,
and Showal the month after the Fast.
These months commence when two
witnesses inform the Kadi that they
have actually seen the new moon.
No printed calendar will satisfy a
pious Mohammedan; the moon must
actually have been seen for him to
begin or end his fast. For the convenience
of business people, calendars
are published giving the comparative
dates of the Gregorian, Mohammedan,
and Coptic years; one of the best is
that of Mahmoud Pasha el-Falaki,
published by M. Moures of Alexandria,
which gives the comparative dates
from A.D. 1850 to 1900. According
to this calendar, the next few
Mohammedan years commence as
follows:—
1st Moharrem, 1306, is 7th Sept., 1888.
1st Moharrem, 1307 is 28th Aug., 1889.
1st Moharrem, 1308 is 17th Aug., 1890.
1st Moharrem, 1309 is 7th Aug., 1891.
1st Moharrem, 1310 is 26th July, 1892.
Several attempts have been made by
scientific Mohammedans to make some
absolute rule respecting the commencement
of the months. See an
interesting paper on this subject by
Mohamed Pasha Moktar in the Proceedings
of the Khedivial Geographical
Society for 1884.
Festivals, &c., in Moharrem
Leylet-Ashoora (the Eve or Night
of Ashoora). The ceremonies of the
10th of Moharrem commemorate the
death of Hoseyn. The Shiah Muslims
of Cairo, almost exclusively Persians,
celebrate in a remarkable manner the
“martyrdom” of Hoseyn (son of Ali,
and grandson of the Prophet), who
was slain by Yezeed, near Kerbelá, in
61 A.H. (680 A.D.). About two hours
after the prayer of nightfall (éshé), a
long procession is formed, which, starting
from an okáleh called the Hosh
Otáee, in the Gemaleeyeh, passes by
the W. side of the mosque of the
Hassaneyn (in which is said to be
buried the head of Hoseyn); then
through a part of the Mooskee and
along by-streets to a house, generally
in the Hamzowee, which has been prepared
for the occasion. The procession
is headed by a number of well-dressed
Persians, accompanied by men bearing
flaming cressets and handsome banners.
Then follows a white horse
with saddle and trappings of pure

white, on which is seated a young boy
holding a small sword in his hand;
his head bare and smeared with blood,
as are the trappings of the horse.
After him is led another horse, bay or
brown, with saddle-cloth of rich cashmere,
but having no rider. The
white horse represents that of Hoseyn.
Then follow a company of about 50
dervishes and others robed in white—
equally divided on either side of the
road and facing each other as they
advance sideways—who gash their
bare heads, like Baal's priests, with
long curved swords, while the blood
streams from their wounds. They
represent the relatives and friends
of Hoseyn, who perished as martyrs
in his defence. These are succeeded
by other fanatics, stripped to
the waist, who lash themselves with
iron chains, and thump their breasts
with their fists and open palms. The
name of Hoseyn is shouted incessantly
in loud and piteous tones;
occasionally also that of his brother
Hassan, who was poisoned at Medina.
The procession ends by passing into
the court of the house above mentioned,
which is brilliantly illuminated,
and in which an interested company
has been for several hours seated, and
listening to the recitals appointed
for the occasion. Here the scene is
repeated, and the fanatics continue
to gash and smite themselves as in
the street. When this semi-dramatic
and barbarous portion of the ceremony
is concluded, a most impressive scene
takes place. The recital of the
martyrdom of Hoseyn is made in
loud and pathetic tones by a moollah.
All present are moved to sobs and
tears, and to every expression of the
most intense grief.
Admission to the house in which
this ceremony takes place can be
obtained without difficulty, through
friends among the Persian community.
Those who desire to witness
the spectacle of the procession may do
so from the window of some house
overlooking the streets through which
it passes, or by taking up a position in
the densely-crowded streets.
The Sunni, or orthodox Muslims,
offer no opposition to the celebration
of this solemn anniversary, but a large
force of police is employed to keep
order.
Yom. Ashoora (the day of Ashoora).
The 10th day of Moharrem, to which
this name is given, is observed with
peculiar reverence by all Muslims.
The first ten days, indeed, of the New
Year, which generally go by the name
of the Ashr, are devoted to prayer and
to deeds of charity. Amulets of various
kinds are now provided especially
for young children, who are carried
through the streets on their mother's
shoulders. A particular sweet dish
is made by all classes on this day.
The Mosque of El Hassaneyn (p. 178)
is densely crowded during the morning,
chiefly by women, and presents an
interesting scene. At the house alluded
to in connection with the Leylet
Ashoora, a further solemn service
commemorates the Hoseyn anniversary.
A large company of Persians
assemble and strike their breasts with
their hands as they listen to further
recitals.
Festivals, &c., in Saffar
Return of the Mahmal and of the
pilgrim caravan. This takes place
towards the end of the second month
Saffar, generally about the 27th.
Though numerous pilgrims, by rail
and road, arrive at Cairo before the
caravan, and enter the city escorted
by their families with music and rejoicing,
there is a formal procession,
very similar to that of the departing
caravan in the tenth month (see p.
215). After remaining one night, or
more, in the district N. of Cairo towards
Abbasseeyeh, the cortège, preceded
by a body of infantry, and the
Bashi-Bazouk guard of the Mahmal,
enters the Bab en-Nasr, and passes
through the streets, beneath the Bab
ez-Zuwéyleh, along the Darb el-Ahmar,
and the Darb el-Wizeer, to
the Rumeyleh (or Place Mohammed
Ali), where it is solemnly received by
the Khedive. This is a very impressive
scene, and should on no account
be omitted by the traveller, especially

if he should not happen to have been
in Cairo at the time of the departure
of the Mahmal for Mecca. The best
point of view is from the road a little
beyond the Khedive's kiosque.
Festivals, &c., in Rabi Awel
The Moolid en-Nebbee, or “birthday
of the Prophet” Mohammed, is held
in the beginning of the month of Rabeeyeh-el-Owal,
on the return of the pilgrims
to Cairo. It was first instituted
by Sultan Murad, the son of Selim,
known to us as Amurath III., 1588
A.D. (996 A.H.). It is a fête of rejoicing,
and from the booths, swings, and
other things erected on the occasion,
has rather the appearance of a fair.
It continues a whole week, beginning
on the 3rd, and ending on the 11th,
or the night of the 12th, of the month,
the last being always the great day;
the previous night having the name
of Leyleh Mobárakeh, or “Blessed
Night.” The ceremony of the Moolid
en-Nebbee usually takes place in an
open space on the left hand of the road
leading to Old Cairo and not far from
the Hospital of Kasr el-Ain. All
round this space are erected the great
tents of the different orders of dervishes
and other religious sects. High
officials, such as the Khedive, the
Minister of the Interior, the Governor
of Cairo, and others have also tents
in the enclosures. The tents alone
are worth a visit. They are of great
size, and lined inside with the beautiful
appliqué work for which the tent
makers of Cairo are so celebrated.
Religious services go on all day
long accompanied by readings of the
Korán.
The night side of this moolid presents
the most interesting aspect to
strangers. Different forms of the zikr,
or religious exercise, of the dervishes
go on in the tents, which are then
brilliantly illuminated. These zikrs
continue till a very late hour of the
night. The last night of the festival
should be chosen by preference for a
visit. A brilliant display of fireworks
then takes place, and the whole
scene is strange and striking in the
extreme.
Festivals, &c., in Rabeeyeh-et-tánee
The Moolid el-Hassaneyn, or Birthday
of “the two Hassans” (Hassan
and Hoseyn), the sons of Ali and
Fatmeh, is celebrated during 15 days
in the 4th month Rabeeyeh-et-tánee,
the great day being a Tuesday towards
the close of the month. From
a religious point of view the festival
is next in importance to that of the
Prophet, and from the picturesque
point of view, it is one of the most
interesting of all the festivals. The
Khedive goes in state to the Mosque
of the Hassaneyn, and walks to it
through the Khan el-Khaleel, which
is beautifully decorated for the occasion.
The shops are closed and hung
with Persian carpets; the roadway,
generally so dusty, is carpeted, and
innumerable chandeliers filled with
wax candles are hung from the roof.
There is no scene in Cairo which reminds
one more forcibly of the Arabian
Nights. There is generally no difficulty
in getting a seat in one of the
shops, but it is very important to go
in good time. Immediately after the
Khedive has passed, the carpets are
taken up, to prevent their being worn
by the crowds which then pass through
the Khan el-Khaleel. The people go
in crowds to the great mosque of the
Hassaneyn, in which are buried the
head of Hoseyn and, as some say, the
hand of Hassan. Solemn readings of
the Korán are made, and grand zikrs
are performed in their honour: the
mosque being brilliantly illuminated,
as well as the quarters in the immediate
neighbourhood; while the
people indulge in the usual amusements
of Eastern fairs.
The Moolid of the Sultan es-Sáleh (Negm-ed-deen Ayoob, d. 1249 A.D.,
647 A.H.), who was considered as a
great saint, is observed at the same
time in the vicinity of his dilapidated
mosque; which is in the Nahhasseen, or
street of the copper merchants, and
thus very near the mosque of the
Hassaneyn.
Festivals, &c., in Gumad Akher
The Moolid er-Rifáee. This festival

is held in the 6th month, Gumad
et-tánee, in honour of the Seyyid
Ahmed Rifáee, founder of the Order of
Rifaeeyeh dervishes, who died at Baghdad
about 1165 A.D. (561 A.H.), and of
his nephew Aboo-Shibák, over whose
tomb is being built the large mosque
called the Rifáee, opposite that of
Sultan Hassan. This festival is one
of the most remarkable that occur
during the year. In the desert tract
between the “Tombs of the Memlooks”
and the mausoleum of the
Imám esh-Shaféeh are pitched numerous
tents of the Rifáee order and its
subdivisions. Dervishes of the order
collect from all parts of Egypt, and the
strangest types of feature and dress
may be seen in the S.E. quarters of
Cairo. Zikrs are performed at night
in the tents, which are brilliantly
illuminated, as at the other great
moolids. The most conspicuous feature
of the festival is the great procession
which passes through a part
of the city about midday on the great
day, viz. a Thursday, about the middle
of the month. The whole scene, including
much that is of a barbarous
character, defies description. Numerous
dervishes as they pass along
devour live serpents; other chew glass
and burning coals. Many again make
a pretence of cutting and piercing
themselves with swords and pointed
instruments. Men, boys, and even
small infants carried in arms, have
their arms, cheeks, and breasts pierced
with skewers, or long needles, at the
extremities of which are placed limes,
dates, or other fruits. On arriving at
the scene of the moolid, many of the
dervishes throw themselves upon the
ground, and hold swords across their
bodies, necks, or open mouths, upon
which the sheykh of the section to
which they belong passes over them,
treading upon the swords, but at the
same time leaning upon attendants,
who partially support him on either side.
The Moolid es-Seyyideh Nefeeseh. In the month of Gumad Akher is also
celebrated the Festival of Nefeeseh, a
great-granddaughter of Hoseyn, son
of Ali. The great day is a Tuesday
towards the close of the month. The
usual festivities take place in the immediate
neighbourhood of the mosque
which contains her tomb, and which
(as well as the gate close to it), in one
of the S.E. extremities of Cairo, is
called after her name.
Festivals in Regeb
The Moolid es-Seyyideh Zeyneb. This festival is held during 15 days
in the sacred month of Regeb: the
great day (Wednesday) being about
the middle of the month. Vast crowds
visit her mosque (p. 184) and make
the circuit of her tomb. Numerous
tents are pitched near, and in some
of the streets leading to, the mosque;
and the usual festivities take place.
The Seyyideh Zeyneb was the daughter
of Ali and Fatmeh, and granddaughter
of the Prophet.
The Leylet el-Miárág, or Night of
the Ascension of Mohammed. This
anniversary, which commemorates the
Night Journey of the Prophet (from
Mecca to Jerusalem, and thence to
Heaven where he conversed with God),
is solemnly observed by the Muslims
of Cairo on the eve of, i.e. preceding,
the 27th of Regeb. An interesting
scene may be witnessed outside, or
sometimes within the precincts of the
Palace of Abdeen (in the latter case
permission must be obtained to enter).
A few spacious and richly-lined tents
are prepared, the ground is carpeted,
and the whole spot brilliantly illuminated.
About 9 P.M. zikrs of Whirling
(Mowloweeyeh) and other dervish
orders take place, as well as various
performances of a certain Moghrebee,
or W. African sect (the Hantoosheeyeh),
lately established in Egypt.
Afterwards, at a late hour of the
night, a solemn recital of the Night
Journey (which is alluded to in ch.
xviii. of the Korán) is intoned in a
clear voice by a sheykh selected for
the occasion, who is surrounded by a
chorus of Ulema.
The Moolid of the Sheykh Aboo
Saleh et-Tashtoóshi
is also celebrated
on this night. The vicinity of his
tomb, which is in the N. of Cairo, near
the Bab esh-Sharéeyeh is much frequented.
Festivals, &c., in Shaaban
The Leylet en-Nusf min Shaaban (the Night of the Half of Shaaban).
The eve of the 15th of the 8th month,
Shaaban, called in some other countries
the Shab-e-Burát, or Night of the
Record, is solemnly observed. There
are special prayers for the occasion.
On this night the Lote tree (es-Sidr),
called “the Tree of the Extremity” of
Paradise, upon the leaves of which are
written the names of all living persons,
is shaken: and the leaf of any person
that is destined to die during the
ensuing year falls to the ground. At
the prayers of sunset the mosques are
frequented by unusual numbers of the
faithful. The minarets of many
mosques are illuminated.
Other moolids celebrated during the
month of Shaaban are that of the
Imam esh-Shaféeh, on a Wednesday,
generally about the middle of the
month, in the vicinity of his mausoleum
(p. 193); and that of “Sultan”
Hánefeez
, held near the mosque called
after him, towards the close of the
month.
Festivals, &c., in Ramadan
Ramadan, the 9th month, and Muslim
Fast, always of 30 days, is ushered
in as soon as the new moon has been
seen by two witnesses on the “Night
of Observation” (Leylet er-Rooyeh):
evidence of the fact having been duly
sworn to at the house of the Kádi,
where a mock trial requiring such
evidence is instituted for the occasion.
Processions are then formed, and proclamations
announcing the fast are
made through all the streets of Cairo.
The fast is observed by all persons, of
either sex, whose age and health permit
of their supporting it. No Mohammedan
is supposed to eat or drink anything nor to smoke between sunrise
and sunset. As the end of the day
approaches, the streets are crowded
with people ready to commence their
meal the moment a gun fired from the
citadel announces that the sun has set,
and the fast is over for the day. The
streets in the native quarters present,
during this month, a livelier appearance
than usual; and the cafés (in
which the reciters of romances are
generally engaged by the month, and
extend their recitals over the 30 nights)
are well attended. In the open court
of the house of the Sheykh el-Békree
dervish zikrs are performed every night,
and the best munshids (singers of odes)
may be there heard, permission to
enter being readily and politely granted
to Europeans. On the eves of the 13th
and 14th, especially the latter, a visit
should be paid between 8 and 10 P.M.
to the mosque of Mohammed Ali, in
the citadel. Here a solemn service
takes place in memory of the founder
of the reigning dynasty, who lies
buried in the mosque; and at whose
tomb recitations of the Korán are now
made. The dervishes assemble and
perform zikrs. The scene presented is
almost identical with that which may
be witnessed on the night next
described.
The Leylet el-Kadr, or “Night of
Power,” is observed on the eve of the
27th of Ramadan. On this night the
Korán is believed to have been sent
down to the lowest heaven, whence
Gabriel delivered it in portions, during
23 years, to the Prophet. The divine
decrees for the ensuing year are also
believed to be issued. The gates of
heaven stand open, and prayers are
specially efficacious. Chapter 97 of
the Korán is as follows:—
“Verily we sent down the Korán in the
night of El-Kadr. And what shall make thee
understand how excellent the night of El-Kadr
is? The night of El-Kadr is better than a
thousand months. Therein do the angels descend,
and the spirit Gabriel also, by the permission
of their Lord, with his decrees concerning
every matter. It is peace until the
rising of the morn.”—Sale. Travellers should visit the mosque of
Mohammed Ali between 8-10 P.M.
It is brilliantly illuminated, and
zikrs of Mowloweeyeh (“Whirling”),
Kadreeyeh (“Howling”), Ahmedeeyeh,
Saadeeyeh
, and other dervish orders
take place. The spectacle is a strange
one, and being witnessed in a mosque
on so sacred a night, will suggest
various reflections respecting the present
position of the dervishes in Islám.
The minarets of this and many other
mosques are lighted with lamps.
An interesting and somewhat
similar spectacle may be witnessed in
the mosque of the Hassaneyn.
Festivals, &c., in Showál
The Eed es-Sugheíyer, or Little
Festival (in Turkish, Ramazan Bairam),
is celebrated during the first 3
days of Showál, the 10th month, and
thus immediately succeeds the close of
Ramadan. This, as well as the “Great
Festival,” which takes place 70 days
later, is celebrated at Cairo by amusements
of various kinds. New clothes
are worn. Visits are made, especially
by women, to the tombs of relatives,
upon which palm branches, &c., are
laid. The districts bordering on the
great cemeteries outside the Bab en-Nasr,
and the Bab el-Karáfeh, are the
scene of much gaiety, numerous tents
being pitched. The Khedive holds a
reception in the morning, which is
attended by all native officials of any
position, by the representatives of
foreign countries, and many others.
The princesses also receive visits.
Visits and friendly embraces are the
order of the day amongst all classes.
Procession of the Kisweh. During
the early part of the month Showál,
the Kisweh, or outer covering of the
Kaaba at Mecca, a rich black brocade
ornamented with letters of gold, and
manufactured annually at Cairo, is
carried from the citadel to the mosque
of the Hassaneyn. There the separate
pieces are sewn together, the Hezam,
or band of richly embroidered brocade,
being attached to the Kisweh itself.
The annual cost of the Kisweh is
46007. The pageant, with all its
accompaniments, is very similar to that
of the Procession of the Mahmal, which
follows.
Procession of the Mahmal. This
ceremony takes place on or about the
23rd of Showál, and announces the
departure of the pilgrim caravan from
Cairo. The Mahmal itself is a square
wooden frame with pyramidal top,
covered with red cloth richly embroidered
with gold. It represents the
litter of Fatmeh Shegeret ed-Door,
the wife of El-Melek es-Saleh, of the
house of Ayoob, who caused herself to
be proclaimed Queen of Egypt in 1250
A.D. (648 A.H.), and who performed a
pilgrimage. It accompanies the pilgrims
annually to Mecca, and an
extreme and superstitious reverence is
now paid to it. At an early hour on
the day a large body of troops are
formed up in the Rumeeyleh, opposite
the Kiosque of the Khedive. A little
later the Ministers, the Kadi, the
Mufti, and all the other civil and religious
officials assemble in the Kiosque,
dressed in their best clothes. Last of
all the Khedive arrives and takes his
seat in the centre of the Kiosque. The
procession of the Mahmal then advances,
and the camel on which the
Mahmal is, is halted in front of the
Khedive, who makes an obeisance to it.
The procession then passes through
the streets of Cairo from the open
square below the citadel to the Bab en-Nasr.
It is headed by detachments of
infantry and cavalry. Then follow
numerous fraternities of dervishes bearing
banners of various colours, and
some of the Bashi-Bazouk guards of
the caravan. Most conspicuous in the
cortège are the Mahmal, which all
spectators endeavour to touch; the
camels of the Emeer el-Hagg (Chief
of the Pilgrims), and the Sheykh el-Gemel
(Sheykh of the Camel), a burly,
half-naked being, who rolls his bare
head from side to side as the procession
moves on.
Those who desire to see the actual
start of the caravan will do well to
ride out to the Birket el-Hagg (Lake
of the Pilgrims), about 11 miles N. of
Cairo, beyond Matareeyeh, on the edge
of the desert. Here the pilgrims bid
farewell to those who have accompanied
them so far; and soon after the midday
prayers on the 27th of Showál, the
long train, including many features
not witnessed in the Cairo procession—
such as the takht-rawans, or covered
litters of female pilgrims, and the picturesque
corps of mounted Bashi-Bazouks—
moves slowly forward on its
desert route.
Festivals, &c., in Zilcada
The Eed el-Kebéer, or Great Festival
(in Turkish, Kourbán Bairam),

is celebrated on the 10th, 11th, and
12th of Zilcada. It commemorates
the willingness of Ibrahim to slay
his son Ismail (according to the Arab
legend). “Verily this was a manifest
trial. And we ransomed him
with a noble victim” (Korán, ch.
xxxvii.). On this day the pilgrims at
Mecca slay their sacrifice; and in
Egypt every family that can afford it
kills a sheep. The rich give portions
to the poor. In other respects this
festival resembles “the Little Festival”
in Showál: all offices being
closed, and the holiday being kept
with rejoicings by all classes. The
Khedive also holds a reception as at
the other festival.

ENVIRONS OF CAIRO.

PAGE
EXCURSION I. Shoobra 216
EXCURSION II. Heliopolis 217
EXCURSION III. The “Petrified Forest” 221
EXCURSION IV. The Barrage 222
EXCURSION V. Old Cairo and the Nilometer 223
EXCURSION VI. Boolak and Gezeerch 232
EXCURSION VII. The Pyramids 234
EXCURSION VIII. Sakkáh 263
EXCURSION IX. Helwán, Toora, and Masárah 275
There are four capital roads on
which an afternoon drive may be enjoyed.
The Shoobra road (Excur. I.),
the fashionable rendezvous, about an
hour before sunset, especially on Sundays
and Fridays. The Abbasseeyeh
road, leading to Heliopolis (Excur. II.),
the best for invalids, as being close to
the fresh pure air of the desert. The
road across the river to Geezeh and the
Pyramids (Excur. VII.). And the
road round by Gezereh Palace (Excur.
VI.) and the racecourse.

EXCURSION I.—SHOOBRA.

The road to Shoobra lies along a
beautiful avenue composed of the
sycamore-fig, and the acacia, known in
Egypt as the “lebbekh,” a tree of
most rapid growth, and of great beauty
when in blossom. The length of the
avenue from the railway station to the
palace is about 4 miles: on either side
are houses and villas, the most noticeable
of which is the Khedive's palace
of Kasr en-Noozheh on the left, a rather
handsome-looking building, generally
devoted to the entertainment of distinguished
foreigners. Opposite is the
Villa Ciccolani, permission to visit
which can be obtained from the owner.
The gardens of this villa are well laid
out, and are worth visiting. There is
a good collection of trees and shrubs
near the house. These gardens are
generally open to the public. The
Shoobra road may most appropriately
be called the “Rotten Row” of Cairo,
and the scene on a Sunday or Friday
afternoon in the season is very gay and
amusing, but in order to thoroughly
appreciate it, the stranger should be
accompanied by an habitué, to point
out to him “who is who.” It is perhaps
the most republican promenade in
the world; no description of vehicle,
nor manner of animal, biped or quadruped,
is excluded, and the Khedive
and his out-riders are jostled and
crossed in most unseemly fashion by
files of bare-boned and sore-covered
mules and donkeys, whipped in by a
ragged urchin, who, with swaying legs
and guttural ejaculations, is urging
along his own wretched mount and the
miserable team in front of him. During
the last two years the Gezeereh road
has almost taken the place of the
Shoobra road as a fashionable promenade.
Before reaching the palace, you cross
a large canal which supplies water to
the . The latter furnishes
water to Port Said, Ismailia and
Suez. The road then passes the village
of Shoobra, or, as it is called,
Shoobra el-Makkáseh, to distinguish it

London: John Murray, Albemarle St.


from another place 14 m. lower down
the river, Shoobra esh-Shabeeyeh.
The palace and garden of Shoobra
were the work of Mohammed Ali,
whose favourite residence it was, but
the former was almost rebuilt by his
son Haleem Pasha. It has nothing to
recommend it but the view from the
windows. It is now the residence of
Prince Hassan Pasha, the brother of
the Khedive, whose permission must be
asked to visit the garden. The Gardens,
though formal, are pretty; and
the scent of roses, with the gay appearance
of flowers, is an agreeable variety
in Egypt. The walks radiate from
centres to different parts of the gardens,
some covered with trellis work, most
comfortable in hot weather. In one
place are some sont trees (Acacia
Nilotica
), of unusual height, not less
than 40 or 45 ft. high. The great
Fountain is the feature of the garden.
In the centre is an open space with
an immense marble basin containing
water, about 4 ft. deep, surrounded by
marble balustrades. You walk round
it under a covered corridor, with kiosks
projecting into the water; and at each
of the four corners of the building is a
room with divans.
At the other side of the garden, near
the palace, is another kiosk, called el-Gebel,
“the Hill,” which forms a
pretty summer-house, rising as it does
above a series of terraces planted with
flowers, and commanding a view over
the whole garden, the Nile, and the
hills in the distance. It consists of
one room paved with Oriental alabaster,
having a fountain in the centre.

EXCURSION II.—HELIOPLIS.

a. Drive to Abbasseeyeh and Koobah.
b. “Virgin's Tree.” c. Obelisk
and remains of Heliopolis. d. Matareeyeh.
e. Birket el-Hagg and Ruined
Towns.
a. Drive to Abbasseeyeh and Koobah. —The drive from Cairo to Heliopolis,
the greater part of which is
along a most excellent road, will occupy
about 1 1/2 hour.
The road from the Esbekeeyeh is the
same as to the station and to Shoobra,
but on reaching the new sebeel or
drinking-fountain in the Place Bab el-Hadid,
you turn to the right and proceed
along a wide road, bordered for
some way with houses of European
aspect. After a time the road divides
and skirts on either side a large square
battlemented building, commonly called
Gámah ez-Záhir, built by the Sultan
ez-Zahir Baybers in the 13th cent.
This was turned into a fort by the
French when they occupied Cairo at
the end of the last century, and was
called Fort Zulkowski. The marks of
their loopholes are still to be seen. It
was afterwards made an Egyptian
Government bakery, and is at present
used as the Commissariat Depot of the
English Army of Occupation. Originally
the mosque was of somewhat
similar type to that of El Hakim, with
four rows of columns on the E. side.
It is now difficult to trace the original
arrangement in consequence of the
modern buildings in the interior. The
S. gateway forms a very picturesque
object, with its massive portal deep in
the shade of a fine old sycamore-fig.
A little further on is passed a gateway
called the Bab el-Hassaneeyeh, leading
into the suburb of that name. To the
right of the road, on the edge of the
mountains, are the ruins of a mosque.
Further away to the right can be seen
the Tombs of the Khalifs, and on a rising
ground the works and reservoir of the
Cairo Water Company. On the left is
an open space where the caravan of the
Mahmal assembles before starting for
Mecca. Here also is held the Moolid
of Beiyoœmee (see p. 209). A little
further on the road divides, that on the
right leading to the English and Egyptian
Military Hospitals and to the
Artillery School at the Polygon. Following
the road to the left, we pass the
Tomb of el-Adel Tomán Bey (1500 A.D.),
the predecessor of El-Ghóree. It consists
of a square chamber, surmounted
by a richly-sculptured dome, resembling
in form the tombs of many of the
other Circassian Memlooks.
We now enter the district of
Abbasseeyeh, which is quite a military

colony, containing several very large
barracks, which are at present partly
occupied by English and partly by
Egyptian troops. The large cavalry
barrack on the right occupies the site
of a palace built by Abbas Pasha, and
from this the district took its name.
Abbas Pasha lived in constant dread
of assassination, and it is said that he
always kept swift dromedaries ready
saddled, so as to be able to fly into the
desert in case of alarm. It was in
these barracks that Araby Pasha gave
himself up to General Sir Drury Lowe
on the evening of the 14th September,
1882, the day after the battle of Tel-el-Kebir.
The road crosses a line of railway
which leads to the citadel and
Helwán, and then passes the Astronomical
Observatory, which is provided
with excellent instruments. Here the
calculations are made for the official
almanac of the Mohammedan year.
(See p. 210.) Beyond is the Zaffaran
Palace, which the late Khedive is said
to have built in 40 days as a present
for his mother. The beautiful plantations
which the road now passes are
less than 20 years old. The soil in
which the trees grow is merely desert
sand, irrigated with Nile water, and so
impregnated with the rich alluvial
deposit it contains. Everything grows
in luxuriance; palms, vines, orange
and lemon trees, the castor-oil plant,
and many others.
After crossing the old railway to
Suez the road turns to the right, and
leaving the Military School on the left
we enter a delicious shady avenue,
bordered with hedges of lemon shrubs
as far as the entrance to the Palace of
Koobah
, built by Ismail Pasha for his
son the present Khedive.
After passing through a fine oliveplantation,
you emerge on a broad
richly-cultivated plain. It was here
that Sultan Selim gained the victory
in 1517 which put an end to the
Memlook monarchy in Egypt, and
made it a Turkish province. Here, too,
in 1800, the French, under Kleber,
defeated the Turks, and regained
possession of Cairo.
b. “Virgin's Tree,”Just before
reaching the village of Matareeyeh, at
a little distance from the road on the
right, is the garden in which is shown
the sycamore-tree beneath whose shade
the Holy Family are said to have reposed
after the flight into Egypt. It
is a splendid old tree, still showing
signs of life, but terribly mauled alike
by the devout and the profane, who
respectively have forgotten their piety
and their scepticism in the egotistical
eagerness to carry away and to leave
a record of their visit. The present
proprietor, a Copt, fearing lest their
united efforts should result in the total
disappearance and destruction of the
tree, has put a fence round it, which,
while it prevents the ruthless tearing
off of twigs and branches, affords those
who are anxious to commemorate their
visit a smooth and even surface on
which, with the help of a knife obligingly
kept in readiness by the gardener,
they may make their mark. A
short distance beyond the Virgin's
Tree is an ostrich farm, which is well
worth a visit. The director, a Frenchman,
is very civil, and is pleased to
show the work done on the farm. It
produces a considerable amount of
feathers annually.
c. Obelisk and Remains of Heliopolis. —A little further on is Heliopolis. It
is sufficiently known from a distance by
its obelisk. The foundations of another
obelisk, which formerly stood opposite
this, and which was doubtless of the
same Pharaoh, as it was customary for
the Egyptians to place them in pairs
at the entrance of their temples, have
lately been found. Before them appears
to have been an avenue of
sphinxes, which probably extended to
the N.W. gate of the city, fragments of
which may still be seen near the site of
that entrance. According to Strabo, it
was by one of these avenues that you
approached the Temple of the Sun at
Heliopolis, which he describes as laid
out in the ancient Egyptian style,
with a dromos of sphinxes before it,
forming the approach to the vestibule.
The Obelisk, still standing, is the
oldest in Egypt; the king whose
name it bears, Osirtasen I., was the

second king of the XIIth Dynasty (see
p. 48). The inscription, which is the
same on each of the four faces, records
his erection of the obelisk, and has
been thus deciphered by Dr. Brugsch-Bey:—
  • The Hor of the Sun,
  • The life for those who are born,
  • The King of the upper and lower land,
    Kheper-ka-ra;
  • The Lord of the Double Crown,
  • The life for those who are born,
  • The son of the sun-god, Ra,
    Osirtasen;
  • The friend of the spirits of On,
    Ever living:
  • The golden Hor,
  • The life for those who are born,
  • The good god,
    Kheper-ka-ra,
  • Has executed this work
  • In the beginning of the 30 years' cycle.
  • He the dispenser of life, for evermore.
The mounds and thick crude-brick
walls, which enclose a space 4560 ft.
by 3560 ft., mark, according to Mariette
Pasha, not the limit of the town, but
of the vast open space in front of the
celebrated Temple of the Sun; an
assertion which he defends by a reference
to similar enclosures round the
temples at Saïs and Denderah.
The faces of this obelisk measure
at the ground 6 ft. 1 in. on the N. and
S.; 6 ft. 3 in. on the E. and W.; it
stands on the usual labical dado, which
reposes on two slabs, each about 2 ft.
high, forming apparently part of the
paved dromos rather than pedestals or
plinths, as they extend a long way
inwards beyond the dado of the obelisk.
It is about 62 ft. 4 in. high, above the
level of the ground, or 66 ft. 6 in.
above the pavement. The apex indicates,
from its shape, the addition of some
covering, probably of metal; and the
form of that in the Fayoom, of the
same king, Osirtasen I., is equally
singular. It is, indeed, not unusual to
find evidences of obelisks having been
ornamented in this manner; and the
apices of those at Luxor, as well as of
the smaller obelisk at Karnak, which
have a slight curve at each of their
four edges, recede from the level of
the faces, as if to leave room for overlaying
them with a thin casing of
bronze gilt.
According to Strabo, the city of
Heliopolis stood on a large mound or
raised site, before which were lakes
that received the water of the neighbouring
canals. It is therefore evident
how much the Nile and the land of
Egypt have been raised since his
time, as the obelisks are now buried
to the depth of 5 ft. 10 in.; and as he
saw the base of the temple and the
pavement of its dromos, the inundation
could not then have reached to a
level with its area. Part of the lofty
mounds may still be seen in the site
of the ancient houses of the town,
which appear to have stood on the
north side, on higher ground than the
temple, owing no doubt to their foundations
having been raised from time
to time as they were rebuilt, and
no change of elevation taking place
in the site of the temple. This continued
in the place where its foundations
had been laid by the first Osirtasen.
The same was observed by
Herodotus, though in a much greater
degree, in the position of the temple
of Diana at Bubastis, “which, having
remained on the same level where it
was first built, while the rest of the
town had been raised on various
occasions, was seen by those who
walked round the walls in a hollow
below them.”
The ancient Egyptian name of Heliopolis
was in hieroglyphics, Annu or
On, with the addition of the sacred
name or epithet Ra-ei or Ei-Ra, “the
House,” or “Abode of the Sun,” corresponding
to the title Bethshemeh,
of the same import, which was applied
to it by the Jews. In Scripture
and in Coptic it is called On. Moses
is said to have studied there, and
Joseph's father-in-law was a priest of
its renowned temple.
Though small, Heliopolis was a
town of great celebrity; but it suffered
considerably by the invasion of the
Persians. Many of its obelisks, and
probably other monuments, were afterwards
taken away to Rome and
Alexandria; and at the time of Strabo's
visit it had the character of a deserted
city. He also saw “some very large
houses where the priests used to live,

that being the place to which they
particularly resorted in former times
for the study of philosophy and astronomy;
“but the teachers, as well as
the sciences they taught, were no
longer to be found, and no professor
of any one was pointed out to him.
Those only who had charge of the
temple, and who explained the sacred
rites to strangers, remained there; and
among other objects of interest to the
Greek traveller, the houses where
Eudoxus and Plato had lived were
shown, these philosophers having, it is
said, remained thirteen years under
the tuition of the priests of Heliopolis.
Indeed, it ceased to be the seat of
learning after the accession of the
Ptolemies, and the schools of Alexandria
succeeded to the ancient colleges
of the City of the Sun.
A few fragments bearing the names
of Rameses II. and Thothmes III. are
nearly all that has been found here;
with the former name, which occurs
in a stone gateway, are associated the
gods Ra and Atum, the former being
called “the lord of the temple.” A
pedestal with a bull and Osiris were
found by Mr. Salt. The bull Mnevis,
looked on as an incarnation of Ra or
Phra, was one of the most noted among
the sacred animals of Egypt. It was
kept in a particular enclosure set apart
for it, as for Apis at Memphis, and
enjoyed the same honour in the Heliopolite
as the latter did in the Memphite
nome. Close to the hamlet of Kafr
Gamoos
, a part of the Necropolis has
been discovered by Mariette.
d. Matareeyeh.—The name of the
neighbouring village Matareeyeh is
erroneously supposed to signify “fresh
water,” and to be borrowed from the
Ain Shems (“Fountain of the Sun”)
of ancient times; and though in
reality supplied, like the other wells
of Egypt, by filtration from the river,
it is reputed the only real spring in
the valley of the Nile. It is, however,
etymologically impossible that the
Arabic word Matareeyeh should signify
“fresh water.” It is probably of
Coptic origin, Má-tá-ra signifying
“town” or “place belonging to the
Sun,” an exact equivalent of Heliopolis.
According to the Mosaic of Palæstrina,
the “Fountain of the Sun” stood a
short distance to the right, or E. of the
obelisks before the temple. Coptic
tradition relates that the water of this
fountain was salt until the arrival of
the Holy Family, when, “Our Lady
having bathed in it, the waters acquired
their softness and excellence.”
The gardens of Matareeyeh were
formerly renowned for the balsam
they produced. The balsam-plants are
said to have been brought from Judæa
to this spot by Cleopatra; who, trusting
to the influence of Antony, removed
them, in spite of the opposition
of Herod, having been hitherto confined
to Judæa. Josephus tells us that the
lands where the balsam-tree grew
belonged to Cleopatra, and that “Herod
farmed of her what she possessed of
Arabia, and those revenues that came
to her from the region about Jericho,
bearing the balsam, the most precious
of drugs, which grows there alone.”
This is the Balm of Gilead mentioned
in the Bible. The plants were in
later times taken from Matareeyeh
to Arabia, and grown near Mecca,
whence the balsam is now brought
to Egypt and Europe, under the name
of Balsam of Mecca; and the gardens
of Heliopolis no longer produce this
valuable plant. But a still more
profitable shrub—cotton—is said to
have been first cultivated at the beginning
of the century, on the ground
near the obelisk; an experiment which
has succeeded far beyond the most
sanguine expectations.
Matareeyeh was the scene of the
action between the French under
General Kleber, and the Turkish army
on the 20th March, 1880. The Grand
Vizier, who had advanced from Syria
with a force of about 60,000 men to
drive the French out of Cairo, reached
Heliopolis, and entrenched himself in
the village of Matareeyeh. This formed
the centre of his line, which extended
to the Nile on the right, and into the
desert on the left. The French army
attacked with great vigour, drove the
Turks out of Matareeyeh and completely
routed them. The Grand

Vizier returned into Syria with the
remains of his army.
e. Birket el-Hagg and Ruined
Towns.
— Beyond Heliopolis are the
Birket el-Hagg, or “Lake of the Pilgrims,”
El-Khanka , and some ruined
towns
; which are not of general interest,
and are seldom visited.
Birket el-Hagg is about 5 miles to
the eastward of Heliopolis, and is the
rendezvous of the Mecca caravan.
Beyond this is El-Khanka ; and still
further to the N. is Aboozábel, once
known for its military college, camp,
hospital, and schools of medicine.
El-Khanka was remarkable in the
days of Leo Africanus “for its fine
buildings, its mosques, and colleges,”
as the neighbouring plain for the
abundance of dates it produced. Near
El-Khanka was fought the action of
the 16th May, 1801, between the French
garrison of Cairo, and a Turkish force
which had come to the assistance of the
English army under General Hutchinson.
The latter was anxious that the
Turks should not risk an action until
the two armies had united. The French
under General Belliard attacked the
Turks, but the latter held their ground
and the French were forced to retire to
Cairo. A month afterwards, the English
army arrived in front of Cairo, and
the French capitulated, and were sent
back to France.
A mile or so beyond El-Khanka is
the Birket el- Akrashar, abounding in
wild duck; and in the neighbourhood
at the right season are some very good
snipe marshes.
Further on to the N.W. are the
mounds of an ancient town called
Tel el- Yahoodéh, the “Mound of the
Jew.” (See p. 280.)

EXCURSION III.—THE “PETRIFIED FOREST.”

This excursion, made from Cairo,
will take from 3 to 4 hours. The
Tombs of the Khalifs (Kaitbey, p. 191)
may be taken in the way. A donkey
is the best means of getting there; and
to those who do not care to take the
trouble to ride, it may generally be
said that it is not worth while to drive
there.
After passing Kaitbey, the way lies
along a sandy wády, with the Gebel
el-Ahmar on the left, and the Gebel
Mokattam on the right. The Gebel el-Ahmar,
or “Red Mountain,” is composed
of red gritstone, which gradually
runs into a siliceous rock, contains numerous
calcedonies, and is of the same
nature as the vocal statue at Thebes.
Owing to the quality of the stone,
which renders it peculiarly adapted for
mills, this mountain has been quarried
from a very early period. The same
species of rock rises here and there to
the southward, upon the slope of the
limestone range, and the bed above
it contains petrified wood of various
kinds.
After passing the Red Mountain,
the plain opens out on the left, and
the scenery assumes a complete desert
aspect. On the right is passed a narrow
valley in which is a small spring of
water known as Moses' Well. The
water is brackish and hardly fit to
drink. Nearing the Mokattam hills, a
slight sandy ascent is climbed, and
on the plateau at the top are to be
seen lying scattered about small and
large fragments of petrified wood. At
this point the driver or donkey-boy
will endeavour to stop, and insist
that these few specimens in the sand
are what he calls the “petlified ood.”
But if the visitor will persevere for
about a mile further — he will be
guided in the direction by the tracks
of his predecessors—he will reach a
spot where much larger fragments are
lying, and among them two or three
trees in situ, several feet in length.
As they are sometimes more and
sometimes less covered with sand, and
as moreover pieces are constantly
being taken to Cairo for ornamental
purposes, it is hazardous to speak of
their length, but there were two on
the left-hand side of the track, one
48 feet long and the other 21, and on
the right of the track one 39 feet long.
About four hours further on is another
collection of these fossil trees, known
as the Great Petrified Forest. It is a
long day's work to go there and back

These fossil stems and fragments have
generally been taken to represent
petrified palm-trees, but scientific investigation
has decided that they are
not correlated with any existing vegetation
in Egypt. In an interesting
paper contributed to the ‘Geological
Magazine' (vol. vii., No. 7, July 1870),
by Mr. Carruthers, he says that after
examining microscopically a large
number of specimens collected by Professor
Owen, he has come to the
conclusion that the stems, though
dicotyledonous, are not coniferous, and
that they may be divided into two
species, the Nicolia Ægyptiaca, already
so named by Unger, and the Nicolia
Owenii
, so named from the distinguished
professor, among whose specimens
he discovered the new species.
A great deal of information on the
character and position of this remarkable
silicified wood, may be found in the
paper mentioned above, and also in an
article on the “Geology of Egypt,” by
Newbold, in the ‘Quarterly Journal of
the Geological Society' (No. 16, 1848).
More extensive remains of a similar
kind are found in the desert about
3 hours farther, and also about 7 m.
W. of the Pyramids of Geezeh. The
latter are said to be worth a visit.
In returning from the Petrified Forest
a different road may be taken.
Perhaps the best is to keep along the
top of the Mokattam hills, and to
return by the citadel. Care should be
taken to arrive at the Mosque of El-Giooshee
at sunset, as the view from
this point is one of the finest in Cairo,
particularly when the sun is setting
behind the Great Pyramids. It is
quite impossible to give any description
which could do justice to this view. A
good way of arranging the excursion is
to take donkeys, visit the Tombs of the
Khalifs in the morning, lunch at or
near Moses' Well, and return by the
Petrified Forest and Mokattam hills in
the afternoon. On arriving at the
citadel, carriages can be found, or may
be ordered to be in readiness at the
foot of the Mokattam, in the little
village between the hills and the citadel.
There is another road back from
the Petrified Forest by the Wady el-Tih
and the village of Bussateen (see
p. 275). Near Bussateen is an interesting
old aqueduct. The road leads
back to Cairo by the Jewish cemetery
and the Tombs of the Memlooks.

EXCURSION IV.—THE BARRAGE.

This excursion is well worth making,
especially to those who are interested
in the improvements now being made
in the irrigation of Egypt, and, if made
at the proper season, it might be combined
with a day's snipe or wild fowl
shooting in the neighbourhood. The
most convenient way of going is to
take the morning train on the Alexandria
and Cairo line to Kalioob, and
thence to the Barrage; the train leaves
Cairo usually at 8.0, arriving at the
Barrage at 9.0 A.M. There is a train
back to Cairo at 4.15 P.M.; or any
train may be taken to Kalioob and
donkeys hired from thence to the
Barrage. It is possible also to go by
river, but this is tedious, unless a party
can be made up to take a steamer.
Messrs. Cook should be consulted on
this point. There is a station on the
Upper Egypt line at Manashe, on the
W. bank of the Nile, not far from the
Barrage, but the trains to and from
Cairo are very inconvenient.
The first stone of the Barrage was laid by Mohammed Ali in 1835.
The works were planned and carried
out by M. Mougel Bey. Situated
at the head of the Delta, about 12
miles below Cairo, the object of this
gigantic work was to hold up the
waters of the Nile during the eight
months of ebb, so as to maintain them
at the level of the soil, and supply
Lower Egypt during that period with
the same amount of water as at the
time of the inundation. It was calculated
that the enormous expense of the
work itself, and of the new system of
canalisation which must be its necessary
complement, would be compensated for
by the great increase of cultivable land
in the Delta, and by the being able to
do away with the thousands of sakeeyehs and shadoofs, thus setting free for
more useful agricultural purposes the
men and animals employed in working

them. Unfortunately, owing to various
circumstances, and the anxiety of the
Viceroy to get the work completed,
sufficient care was not taken with the
foundations of the Barrage, and a
defective arrangement was made which
rendered it unsafe to hold up the head
of water required to keep the canals in
the Delta to the height that was originally
proposed. Colonel Sir Colin
Moncrieff, K.C.M.G., has now taken
the matter up, and large sums are
being expended with the view of
making the Barrage really efficient.
Already, although the work is not yet
completed, great benefit has accrued to
the Delta from what has already been
done.
The Barrage consists of a double
bridge or weir, the eastern part spanning
the Damietta branch of the Nile,
the western the Rosetta. Between the
two is the head of the Delta. “To
form,” says Dr. Russell, “an idea of
such an undertaking, we must fancy
what it would be to throw a barrier
across the Thames at Greenwich, in the
height of a full tide running down,
with this exception, that the bottom
of the Thames would afford much
greater facility for laying the foundation,
for the Nile bed is for many feet
only soft mud. The appearance of the
whole structure is so very light and
graceful, that the spectator is apt to
overlook the difficulty and the greatness
of the work itself. The sluices “are
formed of double cones of hollow iron,
in a semi-circular form, working on
radii of rods fixed to a central axis at
each side of the sluice-gate. These
double cones increase in size from the
lower part of the cone to the top,
and the lowest, which are the largest,
fill with water as they descend into the
bed prepared for them in the masonry
at the bottom of the sluices. The
labour of two men raised one very
slowly against the great pressure of
the water from its bed; when the gate
was lowered, it was easy to understand
the advantage of the curved surface in
pressing obliquely against, instead of
directly opposing the current.” These
sluices are never all closed, as the vast
pressure of such a mass of water would
probably sweep the whole structure
away. The arrangement of them has
only been completed on the Western,
or Rosetta, half. At the Delta end
of each part is a lock, with sloping
terraced quays above and below. Except
during the high Nile, the only
water that flows through the Eastern,
or Damietta half, comes round from
the other side by means of a canal, and
rushes through two or three arches
only; the rest is dry land. The length
of the Damietta Barrage is 1709 ft.,
and of the Rosetta 1437 ft. The two
branches of the Barrage are separated
by a wall 3280 ft. in length, and in
the middle of this is the head of the
Great Delta canal or Rayah Menoofeeyeh,
which irrigates the Menoofeeyeh
and part of the Gharbeeyeh province.
There are 61 arches on the Rosetta
side and 71 on the Damietta side, each
of them being 16.4 ft. in width. Owing
to the cause already mentioned, the
Barrage could not hold up more than
3 ft. head of water. The work of
improving the foundations was commenced
in 1884, and has since been
continued vigorously. It is to be hoped
that the full advantage of the alterations
may be obtained in 1888. In
addition to the work of rendering the
Barrage itself efficient, the whole system
of canals in the Delta is being
improved. A system of fortifications
was built round the Barrage by the
late Khedive, with the view of making
it a central point for the defence of
Egypt. In the interior are barracks,
storehouses, and a small palace, which
is occupied by the engineers who are
superintending the re-construction of
the Barrage.

EXCURSION V.—OLD CAIRO.

a. Drive to and Description of Old
Cairo. b. Mosque of Amer. c. Roman
Fortress of Babylon. d. Coptic Convents
and Churches. e. Island of Roda
and Nilometer.
a. Drive to and Description of Old
Cairo.
Old Cairo is about 2 1/2 miles
from Shepheard's Hotel. The road,
after leaving the Esbekeeyeh, lies first

a short way down the Boolak avenue,
and then, turning to the left, through
the new quarter of Ismaileeyeh to a
rond point where several roads meet.
One of those to the right leads to Kasr
en-Neel palace and barrack. Continuing
on along a shady, but no longer
macadamised road, the Ismaileeyeh
palace, the War Office, and palace of
Kasr el-Ali are passed, and Kasr el-Ain,
where are the government hospital
and medical schools. Near this is the
college or monastery of the Kadreeyeh
(Howling) Dervishes (p. 205). Soon
after the old canal or Khaleeg (p. 168)
is crossed. Just beyond this is the head
of the aqueduct, which carried water to
the citadel. The original aqueduct of
Saláh-ed-deen (Saladin) was merely a
conduit supported on wooden pillars;
and it was not till about the year 1518
that the present stone one was substituted,
by order of Sultan el-Ghoree.
The sakeeyehs which raised the water
were inside the massive building close to
the river. The island of Roda is seen
on the right, divided from the mainland
by a canal-like stream.
Old Cairo may be said to commence
directly the aqueduct is passed. The
village of Kerkau was here in the time
of the XXIst Dynasty. The Arab
city was founded by Amer ibn el-As,
who conquered Egypt in the Khalifate
of Omar, A.D. 638; and is said to have
received its original name of Fostát from the leather tent (fostát) which
Amer there pitched for himself, during
the siege of the Roman fortress. In
the same spot he erected the mosque
that still bears his name, which in
after times stood in the centre of the
city, and is now amidst the mounds
and rubbish of its fallen houses. Fostát
continued to be the royal residence, as
well as the capital of Egypt, until the
time of Ahmed ibn-Tooloon, who built
the mosque and palace at the Kálat
el-Kebsh, A.D. 879.
Gowher el-Káëd, having been sent
by Moëz to conquer Egypt, founded
the new city called Masr el-Káherah
(Cairo), which, after a considerable
time, became the capital of the
country, and Fostát received the new
appellation of Masr el-Atéeka, or “Old
Masr,” changed by Europeans into Old
Cairo. The ancient name of the city
which occupied part of the site of Old
Cairo was Egyptian Babylon; and the
Roman station, which lies to the S.
of the Mosque of Amer, is evidently
the fortress besieged by the Moslem
invader.
In 1168, when the Crusaders invaded
Lower Egypt, the Saracens set fire to
Fostát to prevent its falling into the
hands of the Christians. At that time
it extended northwards as far as the
Mosque of Tooloon, to what is the
southern part of Cairo. This fire,
which is said to have lasted fifty-four
days without being put out, was the
ruin of Fostát. Nothing but the extensive
rubbish-mounds all around, in
which are readily found pottery lamps,
glass coins, and other Arabic antiquities,
remain to prove its former size.
After crossing the Khaleeg, the road
divides; the one to the right follows
the Nile, and to the main street of Old
Cairo; the one to the left leads under
the aqueduct and between Old Cairo
and the ruins of Fostát. Passing some
palm groves, the road turns to the left,
and passing the Convent of Aboo
Sepheen, leads to the—
b. Mosque of Amer (Gúmah Amer).
—This is to the E. of the village, near
the rubbish-heaps. It is the most
ancient mosque in Egypt, and of square
form, as were all the early mosques,
except such as had been originally
churches, which this never was; and
it is somewhat similar in plan to the
Mosque of Tooloon, with colonnades
round an open court. The total area
of the building is 350 ft. square. The
outside walls are of brick. At the W.
end, where is the entrance, is a single
line of columns; at the two sides they
are three deep, and at the E. end in
six rows, the total amounting to no
less than 229 or 230, two being covered
with masonry. Others are also built
into the outer wall to support the dikkeh or platform of the möeddin; and the
octagon in the centre of the open court
is surrounded by eight columns. Many
have fallen down, and time and neglect
will soon cause the destruction of the

whole building. It has three doors on
the E. side, over the southernmost of
which is a minaret, and another at the
S.E. corner.
At that early time the Arabs were
contented with humble imitations of
Roman architecture, or with buildings
erected for them by Christian architects,
which appears to have been the
case in this instance; and the style
of the arches and other portions of the
exterior wall is the same as that found
in contemporary Christian edifices.
The general form of the arches is
round, alternating with others of the
pent-roof head; on the S. side some of
the large lower arches are pointed, and
though it is doubtful if they are of the
same age as the round ones above and
adjoining them, still they are of undisputed

Plan of the Mosque of Amer.

antiquity, and consequently,
as Mr. Fergusson says, are “a curious
contribution to the much - contested
question of the pointed arch.” Indeed
it may be doubted if the Arabs in the
time of the conquest of Egypt had
made sufficient progress in architecture
to build a mosque of the size and character
of this of Amer; though they
added to the interior in after times.
[Egypt.—PT. I.]
Makreezee gives a long account of the
alterations and repairs that have been
made at different times (see Lane's
‘Modern Egyptians'), from which it is
evident that little of the original edifice
founded by Amer (A.D. 643) remains.
Its present arches, on columns, which
are built against the simpler arches of
the original outer wall, are evidently
of the style common in the time of ElMoaiyud,

about 1412 A.D., when repairs
are said to have been made to the
mosque. The last repairs were made
by Murad Bey at the end of the last
century, when some Kufic MSS., written
on the finest parchment, were
discovered, while excavating the substructions.
An ancient prophecy foretells the
downfall of Moslem power whenever
this mosque shall fall to decay. Another
tradition assigns to Two Columns placed 10 inches apart, near the
southernmost door, the power of discovering
the faith of him who tries to
pass between them, no one but a true
believer in the Korán and the Prophet
being supposed to succeed in the
attempt. When all but Moslems were
excluded from the mosques, the truth
of this was of course never called
in question; and now that the profane
are admitted, the desecration of
the building is readily believed to
cause the failure of the charm. At the
S.E. angle is the tomb of the founder
Amer; and at the S.W. a spring, said
by believers to communicate with the
holy well of Zem Zem at Mecca.
c. Roman Fortress of Babylon.— The next point of interest is the large
walled enclosure called “Kasr eshShemmah,”
or “Dayr en-Nasárah,”
or “Dayr Wellee Girghis,” occupying
the site of the fortress already alluded
to as having been the Roman station
of Babylon. There is an interesting
and accurate account of this fortress
and the churches it contains in Butler's
‘Ancient Coptic Churches in Egypt.'
The style of its masonry has the peculiar
character of Roman buildings; which
is readily distinguished by the courses
of red tiles or bricks, and the construction
of its arches; and over the main
entrance on the S. side (which is now
closed and nearly buried in rubbish) is
a triangular pediment, under whose
left-hand corner the Roman eagle was
recently visible. Above appears to
have been a slab, probably bearing an
inscription, long since fallen or removed.
Its solid walls and strong round towers
sufficiently testify its former strength,
and account for its having defied the
attacks of the Arab invaders for seven
months; and it is doubtless to this
that Aboolfeda alludes when he says:
“In the spot where Fostát was built
stood a Kasr, erected in old times, and
styled Kasr esh-Shemmah (‘of the
candle'), and the tent (fostát) of Amer
was close to the mosque called Gámah
Amer.”
Strabo mentions the station or fortress
at Babylon, “in which one of the
three Roman legions was quartered,
which formed the garrison of Egypt.”
This Babylon he describes as a castle
fortified by nature, founded by some
Babylonians, who, having left their
country, obtained from the Egyptian
kings a dwelling-place in this spot.
There is little doubt that, at the time
the fortress was built, the Nile flowed
close to it over the area now occupied
by Old Cairo . There is said to have
been a bridge of boats at this spot
3000 ft. in length, divided in the middle
by the island of Roda, and the fortress
defended the head of the bridge. It is
probable that the gate leading from the
bridge into the fortress was between
the two great round towers on the west
side of it, and close to the existing
Greek church. At all events, it is evidently
a Roman station, and probably the
very one that existed in the days of the
geographer, judging both from its style
of building, and from the little likelihood
of their forsaking a place “fortified
by nature” for another; and no vestiges
of any other Roman ruin are to be met
with in the neighbourhood. The name
itself of Babylon has been preserved
in the name of the next Dayr beyond
the Kasr esh-Shemmah, which is still
called Dayr Babloon.
These Babylonians, according to
Diodorus, were descendants of captives
taken by Sesostris; some suppose them
to have been left by Semiramis in
Egypt; and others say the town was
not founded until the time of Cambyses.
Some, again, pretend that the fort was
first built by Artaxerxes, while Egypt
was in the possession of the Persians.
Strabo asserts that these Babylonians
worshipped the Cynocephalus, which
throws great doubt upon his assertion
of the town having been founded by

foreigners, and would rather lead to
the conclusion that it was Egyptian;
for it is more probable that those
strangers were allowed to live there,
than that they were presented by the
kings with a strong position for the
erection of a fortress.
Immediately on entering this
gloomy-looking place by a low postern
door on the W. side, the visitor finds
himself in a narrow lane lined with
houses. Indeed, the whole interior is
a small town inhabited principally
by Copts, but containing also some
Muslims, and a Greek and a Latin
convent. The objects of interest are
many: but the traveller will find, if
he trusts to a dragoman, that they
are limited to the church in which is
the traditional hiding-place of the
Holy Family, and perhaps the Greek
convent. It is well for those who
wish to see something more to accept
the services of a guide in the place
itself, and distinctly make him understand
what they wish to see. At
some of the churches the key will not
always be forthcoming, but patience
and backsheesh will do wonders. Some
will find enough here to occupy many
hours, and will of course have to postpone
the remainder of the excursion to
another day. For a description of the
principal churches, see below.
The principal points at which remains
of the old fortress are seen are:
inside the court of the Greek convent;
inside the Coptic church called “El-Moallàka;”
in the courtyard near the
Jewish synagogue; and at the end of
a lane, where the inside of one of the
towers is used as a corn-mill. This
last spot is called el-Borg, and is said
to be the place where people were
hanged. It evidently forms a portion
of a large Roman building, with
additions of a later period: crossing
the lower part of one of the towers,
the entrance to which is beneath a fine
old round arch, is a more modern
pointed brick horseshoe arch, which
has been built to support more recent
erections inside the old round tower.
There is a good plan of the fortress in
Butler's ‘Ancient Coptic Churches of
Egypt' already alluded to.
d. Coptic Convents and Churches.
The ancient Christian churches, now
belonging to the Copts and Greeks,
which are scattered about in different
positions amongst the mounds of the
Arabian Fostát, have received far less
attention than they deserve, considering
their high architectural importance,
and the numerous curiosities and
works of art which they contain.
The Dayrs, or convents, in which they
are situated are fortress-like buildings,
evidently constructed with a view to
security against attack, and often containing,
besides the church or churches,
a regular town within their walls, as
notably in the case of the Kasr esh-Shemmah.
An account of the general arrangement
of a Coptic church, and of the
principal objects in it, has been already
given (see p. 186).
In describing these ancient Dayrs,
and the churches they contain, it will
be convenient to arrange them in the
order in which they occur as the
visitor approaches from the Bab
Seyyideh Zeyneb, at the S. end of
Cairo:—
1. Dayr Mari Mena, containing the
Coptic church of Mari Mena, with a
chapel lately occupied by the Syrians
attached, and the comparatively modern
church of the Armenians.
St. Menas, whose name is interesting
as recalling that of the first
recorded King of Egypt, flourished at
the beginning of the fourth century.
There was a celebrated convent bearing
his name at Alexandria, and there,
probably, were made the numerous
Christian bottles inscribed with his
name and effigy, which are found in
the catacombs at Alexandria and elsewhere
in Egypt.
Mari Mena.—This church contains
some interesting pictures and an extremely
curious candlestick of bronze,
representing two dragons with their
heads at each extremity, and their
tails interlaced in the middle. The
lights are fixed along the back. This
candlestick was copied about 150 years
since for the adjoining church of the
Armenians.
2. Dayr Aboo Sepheen, containing
the churches of Aboo Sepheen, Amba
Shenoódeh, El Adra, and the convent
Dayr el Banat. The entrance to the
Dayr is through a low arch. The door
is thickly covered with iron.
Aboo Sepheen.—A very fine and interesting
church. The ancient wooden
door was defended by a casing made
of the scales of crocodiles, but scarcely
a trace of them now remain. In a
reliquary is preserved the arm of St.
Macarius. The pulpit is magnificent,
with mosaics of coloured marbles intermixed
with mother-of-pearl. The
screens are of wood, inlaid with ivory,
and superbly carved. The choir screen,
inlaid with ivory, is specially noteworthy.
The central apse has a magnificent
semicircle of marble steps, and
the wall above is lined with fine
mosaics. Some of the paintings, upon
a gold ground over the screens, appear
very ancient. There is a fine Arabic
ewer and basin enamelled in blue and
green, and a remarkably perfect wooden
book-desk. The nave has a high-pitched
roof, and the dome is unusually
lofty. Near the Epiphany water-tank
is a curious prostrate stone column,
4 ft. 10 in. long, with an inscription
which is the Arabic version of the
Trisagion.
El Adra.—This church has recently
been partially restored. It is peculiar
in having no apse, the three sanctuaries
being rectangular. The eastern niche
is lined with some tiles of fine colour,
but much broken. This church is also
called Sitt Miriam.
Amba Shenoódeh. — An interesting
church. There is a fine early pulpit
of wood, and some curious coverings
for the altar. Here are a Gospel-cover
of base silver, and two silver diadems
used in marriages.
Dayr el Banat.—This little convent
is not far from the church of Amba
Shenoódeh. There is a mother superior
and about twelve nuns, who are not
obliged to take any vows.
3. The Roman fortress known as
“Kasr esh-Shemmah,” or Dayr Mari
Girghis
, containing the Coptic churches
of Aboo Sirgeh, El Adra, also called
“El Moalláka,” Kedeeseh Berbarra,
Mari Girghis, Sitt Miriam. Here also
is an ancient Jewish synagogue,
formerly the church of St. Michael,
and a Greek convent containing the
church of St. George, and the chapel
of the Forty Saints below it, which
last is close to an ancient well, surrounded
by a circle of massive columns
supporting round arches.
Aboo Sirgeh.—A large, fine, and
lofty church. The pulpit in the central
aisle is of early wood-work. The
principal screen is a magnificent specimen
of carved ivory and wood: to the
left of it are some interesting panels
sculptured with St. George (the patron
saint of the Copts), other Saints, and
Scriptural subjects. Behind the high
altar there is a grand flight of seven
lofty steps of white and coloured
marbles, the wall above being faced with
exquisite mosaics, in which the coloured
marbles are intermixed with mother-of-pearl
and pieces of blue opaque
glass. This mixture of shell with
marbles can only be seen in a very few
of the finest churches and mosques,
and has a remarkably elegant effect.
In the space in front of the Iconostasis
two narrow staircases descend to a
small three-aisled subterranean chapel
with plastered walls, apparently of
great antiquity. It is dedicated to
Sitt Miriam (the Lady Mary). Four
pillars on each side divide the side
aisles from the centre. In the eastern
wall of the central aisle is a deep
cavity or niche with a cross-slab at
the bottom, and with the side and roof
carefully finished with hewn stones.
In the end of the S. aisle is a font embedded
in stone like a copper, and used
for the baptism of small children. In
the side wall of each of the side aisles
there is another niche, at the bottom of
each of which is a sculptured cross.
Tradition reports that at the time of
the Flight into Egypt, the Blessed
Virgin and the Holy Child rested in
one cavity, and St. Joseph in the other.
This crypt probably dates from the
sixth century.
El Adra, also called Sitt Miriam and
“El Moalláka.”—A church of paramount
interest. This church, being

situated upstairs in one of the towers
of the Roman Gateway of Babylon,
and at a considerable height from the
ground, is known as “El-Moalláka,”
i.e. “the Suspended.” The approach
is by a lofty staircase, with side walls
of ancient stone masonry, and a vaulted
roof of small dark-red bricks. It has
five aisles, supported, as usual in these
churches, by pillars and capitals torn
from ancient Greek or Roman buildings.
The church has been completely
restored of late years, and a considerable
part of the decorations have been
removed. There is a beautiful screen
in front of the haikal, but no part of
the church is partitioned off as a choir.
Mr. Butler suggests that the choir was
probably separated from the body of
the church by screens, which have
been removed. Two beautiful leaves
of a cedar door, sculptured in panels,
were sold a few years ago by the priest,
and are now in the British Museum.
They contained eight panels, representing
various scenes in the life of our
Lord. There are some beautiful wood
and ivory screens at the west end of the
church under the gallery, which should
be carefully examined. One of the
most interesting objects in the church
is the ancient pulpit, which stands on
fifteen very delicate columns resting
on a slab of white marble. The coping
of the pulpit is beautifully carved.
The staircase is broken away, with the
exception of the upper four steps; on
the sides of the staircase are two
crosses, one a low resurrection cross,
the other between pillars joined by an
arch. On the S. side of the church is
a chapel in which are many relics of
saints and some interesting Coptic
service books. This chapel is in one of
the bastions which stand on either side
of the main gate of the fortress. It is
of very early date, possibly older than
that of the main church. There is no
doubt that there was a church at this
spot long before the capture of Babylon
by Amer, and the Mohammedans
always appear to have regarded the
place with considerable reverence. In
the great persecution of the Christians
by the Khalif el Hakim, El Moalláka
appears at first to have been protected
by him, but it was afterwards handed
over to plunder, and, as Makrizi says,
“a very great and endless quantity of
gold fabrics and of silken vestments
was found in it.” For many years the
Patriarch of the Coptic Church was
nominated and consecrated in this
church, which would appear to have
been regarded as the episcopal seat.
From an historical point of view there
is no more interesting Coptic church
in Egypt.
Kedeseh Berbarra.—A very curious
church of early date. The shrine of
St. Berbarra is gaudily painted in
bright colours, and contains within a
brass grill the relics of St. Berbarra
wrapped in a kind of blue bolster.
The nave is supported on ten pillars,
upon which rest elegantly painted
beams of wood, above which are pointed
arches. The lofty marble pulpit
stands upon ten marble pillars, and is
enriched with mosaics. This church
abounds with splendid early carvings
in wood and ivory. The paintings on
the screen before the Iconostasis are
unusually good. There is a curious
triple standing candlestick of iron, a
single one of brass, and a corona now
disused.
Mari Girghis. This and the next
church, Sitt Miriam, lie close together
in a street to the north of Aboo Sirgeh.
They are in a bad state of repair, but
the choir screens are worth examination.
There are also some curious pictures.
The Greek Convent is a large building,
and contains many objects of
interest. In the church are some
beautiful specimens of old Arabic and
Persian tiles.
The Jewish Synagogue, already alluded
to, is the desecrated Christian
Church of St. Michael, given up
several centuries since to the Jews, to
whom a large sum was owed, which
the Copts were unable to pay. In
plan it resembles a Basilica in miniature.
Above and around the niches
for the books of the Law are numerous
Hebrew inscriptions amidst interlacing
foliage executed in wood and plaster.
A door to the left of the building
admits to an open space, where a fine

view is obtained of the interior of one
of the Roman bastion-towers, and of
the inside of the gate on the S. side,
mentioned above.
To the south of the fortress of
Babylon, and among the heaps of
rubbish are some very curious Coptic
churches which are well worth examination.
They are surrounded by lofty
walls, which give them the appearance
of forts. These are—
4. Dayr Babloon, preserving the
name of the Roman Babylon of Egypt,
and containing the Church of Sitt
Miriam, which is called “the church of
the Virgin by Babloon of the Steps.”
There is a good lectern and some wall
paintings.
5. Dayr Tedreus, containing the
Church of Tedreus, and that of
Aboo Keer wa Hanna (Honnes).—
This church has been rebuilt at no very
remote period. It contains, however,
several curious objects, pre - eminent
among which is a magnificent silver -
Gospel-case, ornamented with
Arabic and Coptic inscriptions. Here
are also some fine crimson and gold
vestments, and a pair of silver-gilt
girdle-clasps, enriched with niello. The
relics of Aboo Keer wa Hanna are
preserved in a chapel to the right of
the church. The cup and paten of this
church appear to be ancient.
6. Dayr Melek Michael (the Archangel
Michael), with the church of St.
Michael. This church has been completely
rebuilt, but on the ancient
foundations.
7. Dayr el-Adaweeyeh, on the bank
of the Nile, a little N. of the village
of Toora; it is beautifully situated, and
commands a fine view of the river and
the pyramids. This church is also
modern, as is also the monastery in
connection with it.
It may be added that all these
ancient churches are built east and
west, and in their arrangements and
fittings give as accurate a picture of
early Christian usages as can anywhere
be found.
Dayrs Nos. 1 and 2 might be taken
on the visitor's way back to Cairo, supposing
him to have begun with No 3.
e. Island of Roda and Nilometer.
The Island of Roda lies opposite Old
Cairo, from which it is separated by a
canal-like branch of the river. The N.
part of it was formerly occupied by
beautiful gardens, planted chiefly by
Ibrahim Pasha. Though no longer
resorted to by the Cairenes as a cool
and shady retreat in summer, it still
presents a very pretty and pleasing
appearance. Arab tradition has chosen
it as the site of the finding of Moses
by Pharaoh's daughter. Opposite the
hospital of Kasr el-Ain, there is a tall
palm with a smooth white trunk, called
“Moses' tree.” In the time of the
later princes of the Greek empire,
Roda was joined to the mainland by a
bridge of boats, for the purpose of
keeping up a direct communication
between Babylon and Memphis, which
still existed at the period of the Arab
invasion under Amer; and, at a later
period, the island was fortified by the
Baharite Memlooks with a wall and
towers of brick, some of which still
remain.
The minaret with 3 balconies that
rises picturesquely above the village
belongs to a mosque built by Kaitbey.
In type it resembles the other mosques
built by that Sultan. A high Nile
rises to the inscription, which is fast
decaying, of the portal. In seasons
when the Nile attains to an excessive
height, the island is submerged, and
boats sail over the fields. The embankments
of stone and brick on the W.
side of the island are in a ruinous state,
and are gradually subsiding, in large
masses, into the stream.
The Nilometer, in Arabic Mekkeeâs (measure), is situated at the S. extremity
of the Island, in the garden of
a house, the entrance to which may
be reached in a boat from Old Cairo .
As its name indicates, it is used for
the purpose of measuring the height
of the Nile. It consists of a square
well or chamber, in the centre of which
is a graduated pillar. This pillar is
divided into 17 cubits, the lowest of

which is not marked; each of these
cubits is about 21 7/16 inches long, the 10
uppermost being subdivided into 24
digits each, while the 7 lowest are
separated only by a line. According
to the measurement of Cairo, where
the cubit is reckoned at about 14 1/4
inches, the column contains 25 1/2 cubits.
The cubits are not of the same length,
and it is evident that the number of
cubits of the river's rise, as calculated
at the time of its erection, must differ
much from that marked by it at the
present day; the elevation of the bed
of the Nile having altered the relative
proportion of the rise of the water,
which now passes about one cubit
and two-thirds above the highest part
of the column. A very interesting
account of this Nilometer is given in
the great work published in France of
the scientific researches made in Egypt
during the expedition in 1798-1801.
The interior of the building is about
18 feet square, and was formerly surmounted
by a dome, which is said to
have borne a Kufic inscription, and a
date answering to A.D. 848. On each
side is a recess, about six feet wide
and three deep, surmounted by a
pointed arch. Over each of these
arches is an inscription in Kufic, and
a similar inscription runs round the
upper part of the chamber. They are
passages from the Korán, relating to
the “water sent by God from heaven,”
which shows the received opinion of
the causes of the inundation, first alluded
to by Homer in the expression
applied to the Nile,
and occasionally discarded and re-admitted
by succeeding authors until a
very late period. The inscriptions have
no date, but their age may be fixed
by the character in which they are
written; they being the same as that
used in the Mosque of Ibn-Tooloon,
and a different writing having been introduced
in the century following. The
fixing of this date is of considerable
architectural interest, as it affords an
additional proof of the early use of the
pointed arch: and if Mr. Lane's date,
A.D. 861, for the completion of the
first Nilometer at Roda be accepted,
it follows that the pointed arches here
seen are 16 years older than those of
the Mosque of Tooloon.
According to Mr. Lane, the first
Nilometer of Roda was built during
the khalifate of El-Weleed, who
reigned from A.D. 705 to 717. “This
was washed down by the river, or
as some say, was pulled down by
the order of the Khaleefeh El-Mamoon,
about the beginning of the third
century of the Flight; but that which
replaced it was not finished by him;
under the Khaleefeh El-Mutawekkil it
was completed in the beginning of A.H.
247 (A.D. 861). This is the building
now existing (says El-Is-hákee, in his
history, which he brought down to
A.D. 1623). In the year 873, Ebn Tooloon
went to inspect it and gave orders
for repairing it; which was done; 1000
deenárs were expended on it; the
Khaleefeh El-Mustansir is also said to
have caused some trifling repairs to be
done to it. But it has undergone very
slight alteration since the time of
El-Mutawekkil.
“Diodorus would seem to affirm that
the first Nilometer in the time of the
Pharaonic kings was erected at Memphis,
which is repeated by Arab historians.
Herodotus speaks of the
measurement of the river's rise under
Mœris, and at the period he visited
Egypt: a Nilometer is mentioned at
Eileithyias, of the time of the Ptolemies:
that of Elephantine is described
by Strabo; and from the inscriptions
remaining there we know it to have
been used in the reigns of the early
Roman emperors. A movable Nilometer
was preserved till the time of
Constantine in the Temple of Serapis
at Alexandria, and was then transferred
to a church in that city, where
it remained until restored to the Serapeum
by Julian. Theodosius after-wards
removed it again, when that
building was destroyed by his order.
“Remains of an ancient Nilometer
existed in the time of El-Makreezee in
the Dayr el-Benát in the Kasr esh-Shemmah;
which was the Nilometér
before El-Islám.” The first Nilometer
built in Egypt after the Arab conquest
is ascribed to Abd el-Azeéz, brother of
the Khalif Abd el-Melek, erected at

Helwán about the year 700; but being
found not to answer there, a new one
was made by his successor El-Weleed,
as already stated, in the Isle of Roda.
Mamoon built another at the village
of Benbenooda, in the Saeed, and repaired
an ancient one at Ekhmeem.
These are perhaps the oldest constructed
by the Arab kings; though
Kalkasendas pretends that Omar has
a prior claim to this honour.
The rise of the Nile as measured by
the Nilometer of Roda is proclaimed
in the streets of Cairo every day during
the inundation by several criers,
to each of whom a particular district
is allotted. Their duties begin the
first week in July, soon after the commencement
of the rise, and continue
until the end of September when the
river has reached its greatest height.
The ceremony of the cutting of the
Canal already described takes place
when the river has reached, according
to the official declaration, the sixteenth
cubit of the Nilometer; but the
actual rise of the river at the time
of the “Wáfá en-Neel” (the completion,
or abundance of the Nile), as
it is termed, is generally about twenty
or twenty-one feet in the neighbourhood
of the metropolis. Twenty-two
cubits is reckoned by the Cairenes as
a perfect inundation. From 24 to 26
feet may be taken as the ordinary
maximum of the rise at Cairo.
The View from the terrace of the
palace at the S. point of Roda is animated
and interesting. Immediately
to the left is the port of Old Cairo , one
of the principal ferry-stations between
the two banks. Boats of all sizes, containing
a curious medley of human
beings, camels, and donkeys, are constantly
passing; and it is difficult to
say which is the most striking and the
least pleasing, the bray of the donkey,
the roar of the camel, or the harsh
shrieks of the passengers and the
boatmen disputing over the fare.
The traveller of the present day, who
can loll in his carriage all the way to
the Pyramids, loses the annoyance
and the interest of the ferry-crossing
between Old Cairo and Geezeh, which
used to be a principal feature in that
excursion. The Nile is here seen in
its full width and grandeur, and the
eye can follow its course for some
distance S. To the right are magnificent
palm - groves stretching for
miles along the plain, and behind
them, on the edge of the desert, rises a
long line of pyramids reaching from
Geezeh to Dashóor.
On the return home, the route may
be varied by taking the road to the
right after passing under the aqueduct.
This will lead by the Christian
cemeteries and the two Coptic convents
of Mari Mena and Aboo Sepheen,
described above, to the mosque of
Seyyideh Zeyneb, and thence to the
Ezbekeeyeh.

EXCURSION VI.—BOOLAK AND GEZEEREH.

(For admission to the Palace and
Garden of Gezeereh apply to the Consulate.
)
This excursion can be combined
with that to the Pyramids, but it
is better to make it the object of a
separate drive. The Museum of Egyptian
Antiquities, which is at Boolak,
can also be visited during this excursion.
The drive direct to Gezeereh takes
about 1/2 hr.
Care should be taken to ascertain
at the hotel at what hour the bridge
over the Nile is opened for the passage
of boats. This is generally done for
two hours at some part of the day, and
it is then not possible to cross the
river.
A long avenue leads from the Esbekeeyeh
across the Ismaileeyeh Canal,
and past the stables of the Viceroy to
Boolak.
Boolak was founded about 1313
A.D., in the reign of En-Nasr ibn
Kalaoon. The tract on which it
stands, with that adjoining it to the
N., was formed by the Nile, which
previously flowed in this direction and
immediately to the W. of Maks. It
is said that an island was gradually
formed by the sinking of a ship called
el-Feel (the Elephant), whence the
island took the name of Gezeereh el-Feel.
Subsequently, in the 12th cent.

(reign of Saláh-ed-deen), the island
became united with the mainland.
Boolak, founded on the banks of the
Nile, naturally became the port of
Cairo, and rapidly grew to be a populous
and flourishing place.
Boolak contains several points of
interest. Foremost stands the Museum
of Egyptian Antiquities
(see p. 197),
though it is to be hoped that this
valuable collection will before long be
removed to a more central position.
Among the Mosques the following
may claim notice:—
Gámah Sinaneeyeh, 1573 A.D. (980
A.H.). This mosque was built by Sinan
Pasha, a Turkish Governor of Egypt
under Selim II., who constructed various
other buildings of public utility
at Boolak. It consists of a square
building, from which rises 16 walls supporting
a dome. The effect produced
differs greatly from that of the lofty
domes rising from an octagon, with
more graceful pendentives, in the best
Egyptian style. Although the mosque
in construction and in decorative details
bears clearly the impress of native
art, the Turkish influence is also observable,
and the whole bears a close
resemblance to the Mosque of Mohammed
Bey, near the Azhar. Instead of
an outer court with porticos, we find
the porticos (consisting of arcades with
pointed arches and domical vaultings)
embracing the building itself, on the
N., W., and S. sides. The windows,
consisting of groups of circular apertures,
are pierced alternately in 8 of
the 16 walls. In the springing of the
dome are 16 windows of fantastic
shape. The windows throughout contain
coloured glass, in good preservation.
A very bad staircase on the W.
side leads to the dikkeh, and to a
narrow gallery encircling the dome.
The kibleh is of black and white
marble. The minaret, meydáah, and
other accessory parts are to the S.
Gámah Mehkémeh, about 1415 A.D.
(822 A.H.), a little to the E. of the
Sinaneeyeh, is a pretty mosque, which
is unfortunately falling into complete
ruin. It is said to have been built
by the Kádi Zeyn-ed-deen el-Yémeni.
Gámah Mirza, about 1696 A.D.
(1107 A.H.), is well worthy of a visit.
The principal wall of the sanctuary is
cased in the lower part with elaborate
mosaics of marble and coloured stones,
and in the upper with tiles of faïence.
The windows contain coloured glass.
There is a double portico on the
Mecca side, and single arcades, with
pointed arches, on the other three
sides. The mosque is roofed, and provided
with a skylight. It was built
by Mustafa Mirza, a Persian.
Gâmah Aboo'l Eyla, towards the termination
of the road from the Esbekeeyeh,
is much venerated. A Moolid
in honour of the saint immediately
follows that of the Prophet.
There are several other mosques, the
minarets of some of which are quaintly
constructed, but none of them call for
special attention.
A visit may be made to
The Printing Press (El-Matbáah),
founded by Mohammed Ali. Catalogues
of all the works that have
been here printed may be obtained in
Arabic, and many of them may be
purchased at the press. The establishment
receives a subvention from the
Government of 22,400l. annually, and
is now in a state of considerable efficiency.
The Director is very civil, and
visitors have no difficulty in obtaining
permission to visit it. It is under the
direction of the Ministry of Finance.
The School of Arts and Trades,
founded by M. Lambert, and now
under the superintendence of M.
Guigon Bey, has done service to Cairo,
some of the best educated Egyptians
having received instruction there.
Various other institutions, such as
the Arsenal, Foundry, and Railway
Works
, will possess no particular
interest for the ordinary traveller.
The Palace of Gezeereh lies immediately
opposite Boolak, but in order
to reach it we must drive to the Bridge
of Kasr en-Neel.
This bridge is of
iron, about 420 yds. long, the buttresses
of stone. After crossing the bridge,
the road turns to the rt., and a short
distance brings us to the Palace, built
by the late Khedive Ismail. The outside
presents no remarkable feature,

with the exception of some handsome
iron - work. The entrance - hall and
staircase are very fine. The reception-rooms
and the ball-room are magnificently
furnished and decorated. Many
of the articles of furniture are beautiful
works of art, which were exhibited at
the Paris Exhibition in 1867. The
rooms are shown which were inhabited,
on the occasion of the opening of the
, first by the Empress
Eugénie, and then by the Emperor of
Austria. The gardens are extremely
pretty, and kept up with great care.
In them is a kiosk of remarkably
pretty architecture, in the style of
the Alhambra. Attached to and forming
part of the gardens was lately a
collection of African birds and beasts.
Gezeereh in Arabic means “island,”
and a glance at the map will show
that we are in fact on an island,
though the W. channel of the Nile
is only full of water during the high
Nile. This channel has been widened
and deepened during the last two
years, and now conveys a considerable
volume of the Nile during the inundation.
Until this work was done there
was a certain risk that Boolak might
have been undermined and carried
away. It is not unusual for a town in
Egypt to be destroyed in this manner
by the river changing its course. The
town of Geergeh in Upper Egypt has
been in great part washed away.

EXCURSION VII.—THE PYRAMIDS.

a. Preliminary Observations. b. Drive to the Pyramids. Geezeh. c. The History and Object of pyramidal
buildings in Egypt. d. Survey of the
Pyramid Field. e. The pyramid platform
of Geezeh. f. The Great Pyramid.
g. The Second Pyramid. h. The
Third Pyramid. i. Other small Pyramids.
k. The Sphinx. l. Temple of
the Sphinx. m. Tombs. n. The Causeways.
o. Pyramid of Aboo Roásh. p. Pyramids of Abooséer.
a. Preliminary Observations.—The
excursion to the Pyramids is no
longer what it used to be. Carriages,
a bridge over the Nile, and a macadamised
road, have superseded donkeys,
the ferry at Geezeh, and the tortuous
dusty footpath. It is no longer necessary,
however high the Nile may be,
to go many miles out of the way in
order to avoid some canal or fields
under water. Starting in a carriage
from the Esbekeeyeh, the Pyramids
may be reached at any time of year
in 1 1/2 hour by the excellent high road,
which lies above the reach of the
inundation, and crossing all the principal
canals on stone bridges, leads up
to the very base of the Great Pyramid
itself. Some will regret the change,
and not appreciate the facilities afforded
to the European inhabitant of Cairo
for aiding in the task already too well
performed by those who should know
better, of disfiguring the monuments;
while others may think that in a country
where to lay a railroad is easier
than to make a road, a first-class carriage
and a locomotive would be a desirable
and obvious improvement upon
a rickety chaise and a pair of screws.
The whole excursion to the Pyramids
from Cairo and back may be
“done” in five or six hours; but those
who are not pressed for time will do
well to devote a whole day to it.
Leaving Cairo at a moderately early
hour—say 8.30 A.M., there will be time
to drive to the Pyramids, make the
ascent of the Great Pyramid, and visit
the interior before the middle of the
day; two hours may then be devoted
to luncheon and rest, and plenty of
time will still remain for the other two
pyramids, the sphinx, and the tombs.
The hire of a carriage will be from
16 shillings to 1l., whether the whole
or part of a day be employed. For a
donkey, 4 shillings. As the ascent of
the Great Pyramid and the groping
into the interior are very fatiguing,
ladies who are not very strong and
invalids will do well to send on donkeys
from Cairo, to carry them about to the
Sphinx and other objects of interest.
In warm weather a visit to the Pyramids
by moonlight is most enjoyable.
The monopoly of acting as guides is
in the hands of the inhabitants of the
village on the edge of the plain close
to the Pyramids, commonly called the

Pyramid Bedaween, and their Sheykh
is responsible for the good behaviour
of his men, and the safety of visitors.
There is a regular tariff of 2 shillings,
which should be paid to the Sheykh,
and for which he is bound to furnish
two or, if desired, three men to assist
in making the ascent, and visiting
the interior. This should not be paid
in advance, and the traveller should
decidedly refuse the assistance of any
men except those appointed by the
Sheykh. If he is accompanied by a
dragoman it will be better to leave the
settlement of everything in his hands,
making him distinctly understand that
he is to arrange it all, and prevent all
annoyance as much as possible. Perhaps
the best plan is to choose one
as a special attendant, and make his
backsheesh dependent on the manner
in which he keeps off the others.
It may be taken for granted that, as
a rule, any so-called antiquity offered
for sale at the Pyramids is not
genuine. Things of small value, such
as bits of mummy-cloth, beads, &c.,
may be old, as there is an inexhaustible
supply of them at Sakkárah, and if
they are not of very remote date the
investment is not large enough to be
a matter of regret; but so-called antique
gems and other articles, for
which a comparatively high price is
asked, are almost invariably counterfeit.
When the Pyramid Arabs have
got a good thing, they do not offer it at
first hand to the European sight-seer.
All who desire to see well the interior
of the King's Chamber, inside
the Great Pyramid, should take some
magnesium wire with them. A rope-ladder
is necessary for those who wish
to see any of the other chambers.
Candles will also be wanted for the
passages in the pyramids and for some
of the tombs.
It will require about 2-2 1/2 hrs. to see
the principal objects of interest, such
as the Great Pyramid (top and inside),
the Sphinx, Campbell's Tomb, &c.,
but there is much more of interest, and
longer time may well be spent.
It is possible to go to the Pyramids,
and then on to Sakkárah, or vice versâ,
and back to Cairo in one day, but it is
a very long day's work, and not to be
recommended. By taking tents, however,
and camping out at either of the
two places, the two excursions may
very pleasantly be combined in one.
(See Excursion VIII., a.)
An hotel has recently been opened
at the foot of the Pyramids, which is
comfortable.
b. Drive to the Pyramids. Geezeh.
The route for a short distance is the
same as to Old Cairo ; it then turns to
the right to Kasr en-Neel, and crosses
the river over a handsome iron bridge
above Boolak (Excur. VI.).
On the opposite side we leave
Gezeereh (Excur. VI.) on the right
The road then crosses another bridge
over the W. branch of the Nile. Here
the road divides, one part continuing
in a direct line to the station of Boolak
ed-Dakroor. The other, which we
follow, turns to the left, and enters
a beautiful avenue of lebbekh trees
leading to the Palace of Geezeh, a
summer retreat, built by the Khedive
Ismail. Passing between it on the
left and two other palaces on the right,
which belong to the Princes Hussein
and Hassan, the brothers of the present
Khedive, the road crosses the Upper
Egypt Railway, and runs between it
and the canal to the Khedive's private
station, and thence to the right direct
to the Pyramids, leaving on the left
The Village of Geezeh, once the
summer retreat of the Memlooks and
Cairenes, but now containing only a
few cafés, ruined bazaars, and the
wrecks of houses. Its Coptic name
was Tpersioi. At the time of the
Memlooks it was fortified, and formed,
with the Isle of Roda, a line of defences
which commanded or protected the
approach to the capital. Leo Africanus
calls it a city, beautified by the palaces
of the Memlooks, who there sought
retirement from the bustle of Cairo,
and frequented by numerous merchants
and artisans. It was also the great
market for sheep, brought, as he says,
from the mountains of Barca, whose
owners, the Arabs, fearing to cross the
river, sold their stock there to agents
from the city. The mosques and beautiful

buildings by the river's side are
no longer to be seen at Geezeh; and
the traveller, as he approaches it from
the river, wanders amidst uneven heaps
of rubbish, and the ill-defined limits of
potters' yards, till he issues from a
breach in the crumbling Memlook
walls into the open plain. No one is
likely to turn aside on his way to the
Pyramids to look at Geezeh, unless it
be for the purpose of visiting a large
egg-hatching establishment (see p.
37): and its name only will claim his
notice, as distinguishing the locality of
the pyramids par excellence of Egypt.
From Geezeh the road continues
along the cultivated land in one unbroken
straight line, but the trees
which have been planted on each side
of it are now grown sufficiently to
afford some shade. The embankment,
on the top of which the road runs, is a
very broad and substantial one. The
inundation finds an exit through two
bridges. The first to drive to the
Pyramids without a break were the
Prince and Princess of Wales, in 1868.
The inundation of that year washed
the bridges and some of the road away,
but they were repaired for the Suez
Canal fêtes in 1869. It is, no doubt, a
great convenience to be able to drive
to the Pyramids in an hour and a half,
along a good road; but the sense of
the convenience is tempered by regret
at the loss of much that was picturesque
and striking in the old round-about
donkey-ride. The principal features
of this ride, as it used to be, are thus
well described: “The plain we now
traversed, being intersected in various
directions by canals, and partly covered
by broad sheets of water, the remains
of the inundation, between which in
many places lay the road, over slippery
causeways, or banks of earth, barely
wide enough to admit of one person's
riding along them at a time. Large
flights of ibises (?), as white as snow,
continually kept hovering above us, or
alighted on the lakes, while several
other kinds of water-fowl, of brilliant
plumage, were scattered here and there
in flocks. A great portion of the plain
was covered with forests of date-palms
of magnificent growth, planted in
regular lines, and springing up from a
level carpet of grass or growing corn
of the brightest green. Interspersed
among these woods, and numerous
smaller groves of tamarisk and acacias,
were the villages, mosques, and Sheykhs'
tombs; not unpleasing objects when
beheld by a cheerful eye.
“As owing to the quantity of water
which still remained from the inundation,
the pathway turned in various
directions, and proceeded in a very
circuitous manner; we often seemed
to be moving towards the east, and
caught a view of the Mokattam
Mountains: frequently the Pyramids
of Sakkárah, Abooseer, and Dashoor
became visible in the distance towards
the south; but though they were many
in number, I could discern no more
than seven. The appearance of the
country continued extremely fine, and
the rocks and grey sand-hills of the
desert, which bounded our view towards
the west, seemed only to enhance by
contrast the splendour of the intervening
landscapes. It would appear to
be mere prejudice to suppose that a
fine level country like Egypt, contemplated
through an atmosphere of extraordinary
purity, with a surface diversified
by all the accidents of wood
and water, rustic architecture, flocks
and herds, or hemmed in by rocks and
sands eternally barren, must necessarily
be insipid and unpicturesque.
The landscape now before me was
beautiful, and there are artists in England
who, from such materials, and
without overstepping the modesty of
nature, could create pictures to rival
the softest scene among the works of
Claude. The date-palm itself is a
lovely object; far more lovely than I
have ever seen it represented by the
pencil; and when beheld in its native
country, relieved against a deep blue
sky, or against the yellow sands of the
desert, with a herd of buffaloes, a
long string of laden camels, or a troup
of Bedouins passing under it, lance in
hand, it constitutes a perfect picture.
But when we have before us a whole
forest of these trees, of all sizes, from
ten to one hundred feet in height,
intermingled with mimosas, acacias,

tamarisks, and Egyptian sycamores,
more noble, if possible, than the oak,
disposed in arched echoing walks,
with long green vistas, glimpses of
cool, shady lakes, villages, mosques,
pyramids, the whole ever canopied by
a sky of stainless splendour, and glowing
beneath the pencil of that arch-painter,
the sun, nothing seems to be
wanting but genius to discover the
elements of the most magnificent landscapes.”—J. St. John.
The view from the present high-road
over the fertile plain on each side
is a very beautiful one, especially in
the month of January, when everything
is green; and the back-ground of
pyramid and desert in going, and of
Cairo and its citadel and the Mokattam
hills in returning, are worthy settings
to the picture.
The sportsman, too, will regard it
with no less interest than the artist,
as, in the months of March and April,
the fields of clover, corn, and vetch
abound in quail, and bags of 30 or 40
brace are often made by two guns in a
few hours.
Most travellers have expressed their
sense of disappointment on approaching
the Pyramids, so vast at a distance,
so apparently insignificant when only
a short way off—a feeling not dispelled
until one stands close under the Great
Pyramid. “I found the best way of
getting an impressive idea of the enormous
magnitude of these pyramids
was to place myself in the centre of
one side and to look up. The eye thus
travels over all the courses of stone,
from the very bottom to the apex,
which appears literally to pierce the
blue vault above. This way of looking
at the Great Pyramid—perhaps it is a
way which exaggerates to the eye its
magnitude unfairly — makes it look
Alpine in height, while it produces the
strange effect just noticed.”—Rev. B.
Zincke.
On the right of the road, just as it
reaches the desert and begins to ascend
the rocky platform on which the Pyramids
stand, is an hotel, where dinner
can be obtained, but it is important to
order it in advance. Emerging from
between the walls which keep this last
portion of the road from being buried
in sand, the traveller finds himself at
the foot of the Great Pyramid.
The house at its N.E. angle was
built by Ismail Pasha for the reception
of distinguished visitors at the opening
of the A room for luncheon
may be secured in it by a small payment
to the custodian.
To those who take an interest in the
construction of the Pyramids we would
strongly recommend a perusal of Mr.
Flinders Petrie's work on the ‘Pyramids
and Temples of Geezeh.’
e. The History and Object of pyramidal
buildings in Egypt.
—What may
be called the Pyramid Field of Egypt
extends in a long series of groups over
about three parts of a degree of latitude,
from Aboo Roásh on the N., to Illahoon,
in the Fayoom, on the S. Brick
pyramidal structures are also found at
Thebes. In Ethiopia, near Napata,
and at Meroë, there are also many similar
structures. Stone is the material
employed in building them, with a
few exceptions, such as the crude brick
ones at Dashoor, in the Fayoom, and
at Thebes; all of which, however, are
probably of a later date than the stone
ones. The “law of Egyptian pyramid
building” has been thus described,
according to the theory of Lepsius and
Mr. Wild: “A rocky site was first
chosen and a space made smooth, except
a slight eminence in the centre, to
form a peg upon which the structure
should be fixed. Within the rock, and
usually below the level of the future
base, a sepulchral chamber was excavated,
with a passage, inclining downwards,
leading to it from the north.
Upon the rock was first raised a
moderate mass of masonry, of nearly a
cubic form, but having its four sides
inclined inwards, upon this a similar
mass was placed; and around, other
such masses, generally about half as
wide. At this stage the edifice could
be completed by a small pyramidal
structure being raised on the top, and
the sides of the steps filled in, the
whole being ultimately cased, and the
entrance passage, which had of course
been continued through the masonry,

securely closed; or else the work could
be continued on the same principle.
In this manner it was possible for the
building of a pyramid to occupy the
lifetime of its founder without there
being any risk of his leaving it incomplete.”
Mr. Petrie does not agree
with this theory, and believes that the
Pyramids were constructed as originally
designed.
Many have been the ideas propounded
as to the purpose which pyramids
were intended to serve Temples,
granaries, observatories, tombs, and
many other notions, have all had their
advocates; but it is now a pretty
generally accepted fact among Egyptologists
that they were simply tombs:
that in fact, during a certain period
of Egyptian history, it was customary
to raise a structure of pyramidal form,
varying in size according to the importance
of the owner, over every tomb
of any consequence—a theory which
the uniform subterranean chamber and
descending passage found beneath
every pyramid yet examined seems to
confirm. How far it is applicable to
the special case of the Great Pyramid,
with its complicated arrangement of
chambers in the very heart of the
structure, is not a question that need
be decided here. Many learned men
have seen, in the elaborate structure of
the Great Pyramid, a wider intention
and a more abstruse meaning; and the
latest and most able opponent of the
tomb theory as applied to the Great
Pyramid, Mr. Piazzi Smyth, has written
a learned work, to prove that it is a
“metrological monument,” intended to
serve as a standard for all kinds of
measures. Some think they served
for astronomical purposes as well as
for tombs. Mariette Pasha thus
speaks decisively in favour of their
being nothing but tombs: “With
regard to the object for which the
Pyramids were destined, it is contrary
to all that we know of Egypt, to all
that archæology has taught us of the
monumental customs of that country,
to see in them anything but tombs.
The pyramids, such as they are, are
tombs; massive, complete, hermetically
sealed everywhere, even to the
most carefully constructed passages,
without windows, without doors, without
any external opening. They are
the gigantic and for ever impenetrable
casing of a mummy; and the fact that
one alone among them has accessible
interior chambers, from which astronomical
observations might have been
made, as from the bottom of a well,
only proves that such was not the
purpose for which it was originally
destined. It is useless to argue that
the orientation of the four sides denotes
some astronomical object. The four
sides are thus accurately arranged because
they are dedicated for mythological
reasons to the four cardinal
points, and therefore, in a monument
so carefully finished as a pyramid is, a
side dedicated to the north, for instance,
would not face any other point but the
north. The pyramids then, are only
tombs: and the enormous size of some
of them can furnish no argument
against this conclusion, since there are
many not more than twenty feet high.
Be it remarked, moreover, that there
is not in Egypt a single pyramid that
is not situated in a necropolis; a fact
enough of itself to settle the question
of their destination.”
The pyramid in the hieroglyphs is
denoted by the word abumer, “a great
tomb.” The word pir-am-us also
means in certain texts the same thing,
though, according to Dr. Brugsch, it
is more strictly equivalent to the
“edge of the pyramid,” i.e. those
four edges from the apex to the base.
Both these words are suggestive of a
clue to the derivation of the modern
word. Some again have derived it
from Pi-Rama, the “mountain.” There
is little doubt, however, that the word
“pyramid” is of Greek origin, and
may be derived either direct from ,
fire, or, following Mr. Taylor, quoted
by Mr. Piazzi Smyth, from ,
wheat, and , measure; or it
may be referred to the or
, a pointed cake used in the
rites of Bacchus—the object of common
life suggesting a name for the
mathematical solid. With regard
both to the derivation of the word
and the purpose of the thing, we


PANORAMA OF PYRAMIDS FROM ABOO ROÁSH ON THE N. TO MAYDOOM ON THE S.

may come to the most satisfactory
conclusion with Lord Lindsay, when
he says:—”Temples or tombs, monuments of tyranny or of priestly wisdom,
no theory as to the meaning of the
pyramids,
“'Those glorious works of fine intelligence,”
has been broached so beautiful, to my
mind, as old Sandys's; who, like Milton
and the ancients, believing them
modelled in imitation of ‘that formless
formtaking substance,’ fire, conceives
them to express the ‘original of things.’
'For as a pyramid, beginning at a point
by little and little dilateth into all
parts, so nature, proceeding from an
individual fountain, even God, the
Sovereign Essence, receiveth diversity
of form, effused into several kinds and
multitudes of figures, uniting all in the
supreme head, from whence all excellences
issue.' A truth that will outlive
the pyramids.”
The Arab name for a pyramid is
el-Haram
d. Survey of the Pyramid Field.
The remains of 70 pyramids have been
found in the necropolis which extends
from Aboo Roash on the N. to Maydoom
on the S. Two or more are
in the Fayoom. The first king who
is known to have built pyramids is
Ouenephes, or Vanephes, of the 1st
Dynasty, mentioned by Manetho. His
pyramid has been identified with that
in steps at Sakkárah, which M. Mariette
considers to be an ancient Apis mausoleum,
but the identification does not
rest on any very clear grounds (see
p. 270). There are many pyramids of
the usual kind at Sakkárah, and any
of them may well be those built by
Ouenephes. The oldest pyramid of
which the identity is tolerably certain
is that of Seneferoo at Maydoom. The
latest is probably that of Amenemhat
III. at Illahoon.
The pyramids hitherto identified are
ten in number. The following is a
list of them.
1. Maydoom; height, with mound,
about 250 ft., in three degrees; never
opened. Tomb of Seneferoo, IIIrd
Dynasty. Hieroglyphic name, Kha,
“the rising,” “the festival,” “the
diadem.”
2. Geezeh; height, 481 ft. Tomb
of Khufu, IVth Dynasty. Name, Khut,
“the lights.”
3. Geezeh; height, 472 ft. Tomb
of Khafra, IVth Dynasty. Name, Ur,
“the great.”
4. Geezeh; the southernmost of the
three small pyramids by the side of
No. 2 has been identified as the tomb
of Hentsen, a daughter of Shoofoo.
5. Geezeh; height, 215 ft. Tomb
of Menkaoora, IVth Dynasty. Name,
Hir, “the upper”
6. Abooseer; height, 118 ft. Tomb
of Saoora, Vth Dynasty. Name, Khaba,
“the rising of the souls.”
7. Abooseer; middle pyramid. Tomb
of Raenooser, Vth Dynasty. Name,
Men Setu, “the most enduring
place.”
8. Sakkárah; one of the pyramids
is that of Hormenkaoo, of the Vth
Dynasty, the name of which was Neter
Setu
, “the most holy place.”
9. Mastabat el-Pharaoon; a flattopped
building, or pyramid of one
stage. Tomb of Oonas, seventh king
of the Vth Dynasty. Name, Nefer Setu,
“the most beautiful place.”
10. Sakkárah. The Tomb of Merira
Pepi of the VIth Dynasty.
Although the exact site has not
been determined, it is known that a
pyramid was built by every king from
Seneferoo to the end of the VIth
Dynasty. In every case it is probable
that a temple was attached to the
pyramid, not of necessity closely adjoining,
but not far off. The ruins of
such temples exist near several of the
pyramids at Sakkárah, those of Abooseer,
and the second and third pyramids
at Geezeh. Commemorative inscriptions
were probably in these temples,
rather than upon the pyramids themselves,
but it is certain that sculpture
of some kind decorated a portion at
least of the vast surface of these monuments.
In connection with this it
has been ingeniously suggested that
the “raphanus, onions and garlic,”
of which Herodotus speaks as having
been recorded on the Great Pyramid,
were probably an inscription containing

the garlic or onion plant suten, the
sign for “king,” with the papyrus and
lotus which were used in spelling the
royal titles as lord of Upper and Lower
Egypt. In all pyramids the entrance
is to the north: in other tombs of the
Memphite necropolis it faces east.
All the pyramids are on the west or
left bank of the Nile; and when they
were perfect, the line from Maydoom
to Aboo Roash was nowhere broken by
a distance of more than seven or eight
miles. They are all situated above the
level of inundations, and all, except
those of Abooseer, upon the rocky
platform which borders the desert.
e. The Pyramid platform of
Geezeh.
—The rocky plateau on which
stand the Pyramids of Geezeh was
from the time of the IVth Dynasty one
of the cemeteries of Memphis. It is
elevated about 100 feet above the
plain, and forms a sort of promontory
in the Libyan chain, whose greatest
projection is towards the north-east.
The principal monuments situated on
this platform are the Sphinx, and the
three large pyramids known as the
Great Pyramid, or Pyramid of Khufu,
the Second Pyramid, or Pyramid of
Khafra, and the Third Pyramid, or
Pyramid of Menkavora; in addition
to which there are several smaller
pyramids, and many ordinary tombs.
The rock is what is commonly called
nummulite limestone, abounding in
fossil remains, and nummulites of the
kind called Nautilus Mammilla, or
Lenticularis. They were mistaken by
Strabo for the petrified residue of the
lentils and barley, that formed the
staple food of the workmen employed
in building the pyramids, and when we
see the theories of the present day we
readily forgive the geographer for his
fanciful conclusion. The greater part
of the stone used was brought from
the quarries of Toora and Masárah, and
the granite from Assouan.
f. The Great Pyramid.History.—
The first visitor to Egypt who left any
record of his travels was Herodotus,
2300 years ago, and he thus relates the
history of the building of this pyramid.
“… Cheops succeeded to the throne,
and at once plunged into all manner of
wickedness. He closed all the temples,
and forbade the Egyptians to perform
sacrifices; after which he made them
all work for him. Some were employed
in the quarries of the Arabian
hills, to cut stones, to drag them to the
river, and to put them into boats,
others being stationed on the opposite
shore to receive them, and drag them
to the Libyan hills; and the 100,000
men thus occupied were relieved by
an equal number every three months.
Of the time,” he adds, “passed in this
arduous undertaking, 10 years were
taken up with the construction of the
causeway for the transport of the
stones,—a work scarcely less wonderful
in my opinion than the pyramid
itself; for it has 5 stades in length, 10
orgyes in breadth, and 8 in height in
the highest part, and is constructed of
polished stones, sculptured with the
figures of animals. These 10 years
were occupied exclusively in the causeway,
independently of the time spent
in levelling the hill on which the pyramids
stand, and in making the subterranean
chambers intended for his tomb
in an island formed by the waters of
the Nile, which he conducted thither
by a canal. The building of the
pyramid itself occupied 20 years. It is
square, each face measuring 8 plethra
in length, and the same in height.
The greater part is of polished stones,
most carefully put together, no one of
which is less than 30 feet long.
“This pyramid was built in steps,
and, as the work proceeded, the stones
were raised from the ground by means
of machines made of short pieces of
wood. When a block had been brought
to the first tier, it was placed in a
machine there, and so on from tier to
tier by a succession of similar machines,
there being as many machines as tiers
of stone; or perhaps one served for the
purpose, being moved from tier to tier
as each stone was taken up. I mention
this because I have heard both stated.
When completed in this manner, they
proceeded to make out (the form of)
the pyramid, beginning from the top,
and thence downwards to the lowest

TOPOGRAPHICAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF GEEZEH.
A, Entrance to the Great Pyramid. B, Entrance to the Second Pyramid. C C, Long pits,
by some supposed for mixing the mortar. D, Pyramid of the daughter of Khufu (Herodotus,
ii. 126). E. Pavement of black stones (basaltic trap), the same as found on the causeways of
the pyramids of Sakkárah. F. Remains of masonry. G, Round enclosures of crude brick, of
Arab date, at N.E. angle of this pyramid. H, Tombs of individuals, with deep pits. I, The
Tomb of Numbers. K, Two inclined passages, meeting under ground, apparently once
belonging to a small pyramid that stood over them. L L, The rock is here cut to a level
surface. M, Kiosque for reception of visitors. N, A square space cut in the rock, probably to
receive and support the corner-stone of the casing of the pyramid. The corner itself is of rock.
P, Here stood a tomb which has received the title of the temple of Osiris. Q, Tomb of Trades,
to west of Tombs H. R, A pit cased with stone, of modern date. S, The Third Pyramid.
T, Three small pyramids. U V, Temples in front of second and third pyramids. W W W,
Fragments of stone arranged in the manner of a wall. X. A few palms and sycamores, with a
well. Y, Southern stone causeway. Z, Northern causeway, repaired by the Khalifs. a,
Tombs cut in the rock. b, Masonry. c. Black stones. d d. Tombs cut in the rock. e, The
Sphinx. f, Granite, and Alabaster temple, with oval of Khafra or Chephren, builder of second
pyramid: in it was found the large statue of Chephren, now in the museum at Cairo. g, Pits.
h, Stone ruin on a rock. i. Doorway, or passage through the southern causeway, k, A grotto
in the rock, and above to the S.E. are pits at t. I, Inclined causeway, part of Y. m n, Tombs
in the rocks, o. Some hieroglyphics on the rock, and trenches below, cut when the squared
blocks were taken away. p. Tombs cut in the scarp of the rock; one of them (the 6th from the
S.) has a ceiling cut in imitation of the trunks of palm trees. q, Stone wall. r, Steps cut in
the rock, near the N.W. angle of the Great Pyramid. M N, Magnetic North and South, T N is
True North. u, Campbell's tomb. v, Arched tomb, with name of Psammetichus. w. A
tomb with figures in relief and the Egyptian curved cornice. The constructed tombs at H, and
behind the rocks, d-d, are less regularly disposed than in the plan, but it is difficult to define
them exactly on so small a scale. They are not so regular or' perfect as shown.

tier On the exterior was engraved in
Egyptian characters the sum expended
in supplying the workmen with
raphanus, onions, and garlic; and he
who interpreted the inscription told me,
as I remember well, that it amounted
to 1600 talents (200,000l. sterling).
If that be true, how much must have
been spent on the iron tools, the food
and clothing of the workmen, employing
as they did, all the time above
mentioned, without counting that
occupied in cutting and transporting
the stones and making the subterraneous
chambers, which must have
been considerable!”
Diodorus, the next authority in point
of time, says that “Chembis (or
Chemmis), a Memphitc, who reigned
50 years, built the largest of the three
pyramids, which are reckoned among
the seven wonders of the world. They
stand on the Libyan side (of the Nile),
distant from Memphis 120 stadia, and
45 from the river. They strike every
beholder with wonder, both from their
size and the skill of their workmanship;
for every side of the largest, at the base,
is 7 plethra in length, and more than
6 in height. Decreasing in size towards
the summit, it there measures
6 cubits (9 feet). The whole is of
solid stone, made with prodigious
labour, and in the most durable
manner, having lasted to our time, a
period not less than 1000 years, or, as
some say, upwards of 3400; the stones
still preserving their original position,
and the whole structure being uninjured.
The stone is said to have
been brought from Arabia, a considerable
distance, and the building made
by means of mounds (inclined planes),
machines not having yet been invented.
What is most surprising is that,
though these structures are of such
great antiquity, and all the surrounding
ground is of so sandy a nature,
there is no trace of a mound, nor
vestige of the chippings of the stone:
so that the whole seems as if placed
on the surrounding sand by the aid
of some deity, rather than by the sole
and gradual operations of man. Some
of the Egyptians try to make wonderful
stories about them, saying that the
mounds (inclined planes) were made of
salt and nitre, which by directing the
water of the river upon them, were
afterwards dissolved without human
aid when the work was completed.
This cannot be true; but the same
number of hands that raised the
mounds removed the whole to the
original place whence they were
brought. For it is reported that
360,000 men were employed in this
work, and the time occupied in finishing
the whole was scarcely less than
20 years.”
Pliny says, “The largest pyramid
is built of stones from the Arabian
quarries; 366,000 men are said to have
been employed for 20 years in its construction;
and the three were all made
in 68 years and 4 months. Those who
have written about them are Herodotus,
Euhemerus, Duris of Samos, Aristagorus,
Dionysius, Artemidorus, Alexander
Polyhistor, Butori Antisthenes,
Demetrius, Demoteles, Apion; and
yet no one of them shows satisfactorily
by whom they were built; a
proper reward to the authors of such
vanity that their names should be
buried in oblivion.
“Some have affirmed that 1800
talents were spent in raphanus-roots,
garlic, and onions. The largest covers
a space of 8 acres (jugera), with 4 faces
of equal size from corner to corner,
and each measuring 883 feet; the
breadth at the summit being 25 feet.
“No vestiges of houses remain near
them, but merely pure sand on every
side, with something like lentils, common
in the greater part of Africa.
The principal question is, how the
blocks were carried up to such a
height? For some suppose that
mounds, composed of nitre and salt,
were gradually formed as the work
advanced, and were afterwards dissolved
by the water of the river as soon
as it was finished; others, that bridges
were made of mud-bricks, which, when
the work was completed, were used to
build private houses; since the Nile,
being on a lower level, could not be
brought to the spot.”
Modern research has decided that
the Cheops of Herodotus is identical

with, the Suphis of Manetho, and the
Khufu of the Tables of Abydus and
Sakkárah, the second king of the
IVth Dynasty, reigning at Memphis
some time between 4235 B.C. and
2450 B.C., according to the system of
chronology adopted. His hieroglyphic
name, Khufu or Shoofoo (see p. 68), is
found in the Great Pyramid on bricks
and in the uppermost chamber, and in
some of the tombs of the platform.
The story of his wickedness, and of
the way in which he oppressed the
Egyptians, is inconsistent with the
testimony of certain contemporary
monuments, which represent him as
treated as a divinity, and specially
worshipped. Manetho's account, “that
he was arrogant towards the gods; but,
repenting, he wrote the Sacred Book,”
seems to reconcile both views of his
character.
The most probable mode of construction
of the Pyramids is described as
follows by Mr. Petrie, who has studied
the subject most carefully, “The site
being chosen, it was carefully levelled,
and the lengths of the sides were set
out with great exactitude. From
several indications it seems that the
masons planned the casing, and some
at least of the core masonry also,
course by course on the ground. For
on all the casing, and on the core on
which the casing fitted, there are lines
drawn on the horizontal surfaces, showing
where each stone was to be placed
on those below it. The means employed
for raising such masses of stone
is not shown to us in any representations.
For the ordinary blocks of a
few tons each, it would be very feasible
to employ the method of resting them
on two piles of wooden slabs, and rocking
them up alternately to one side
and the other by a spar under the
block, thus heightening the piles alternately
and so raising the stone. This
would also agree with the mysterious
description of a machine made of short
pieces of wood—a description which it
is difficult otherwise to realize. This
method would be also applicable to the
largest masses we know of in the
Pyramid, the fifty-six roofing beams
of the king's chamber, and the spaces
above it. These average 700 cubic
feet each; weighing therefore 54 tons,
some larger, some less. That sheet
iron was employed we know, from the
fragment found by Howard Vyse in
the masonry of the south air channel;
and though some doubt has been
thrown on the piece, merely from its
rarity, yet the vouchers for it are very
precise. No reasonable doubt can exist
about its being really a genuine piece
used by the Pyramid masons; and probably
such pieces were required to
prevent crowbars biting into the stones,
and to ease the action of the rollers.”
Exterior.—The statement of the
three writers already cited, that
Khufu's Pyramid was built with stone
from the quarries of the Arabian mountains,
is partly true, as much of the
material comes from the magnesian
limestone quarries of Toora and Masárah
(see p. 276), but the nummulite
limestone of the neighbouring rock has
also been largely employed. The
causeway along which the stone from
the other side of the river was brought
will be found described further on (n.).
Traces of a similar causeway have been
observed between Gebel Masárah and
the Nile, which probably served for the
conveyance of the stone from the
quarry to the river. Herodotus's expression,
that the “greater part is of
polished stone, most carefully put
together,” corroborated by similar statements
of Plato, Pliny, and early Arabian
authors, though conjectured to
mean that the Great Pyramid had,
originally, a smooth and even surface,
similar to what may still be seen at the
top of the Second Pyramid, received
no proof until the discovery by Col.
Howard Vyse, in 1837, of two of the
“casing stones,” in situ. They were
blocks of limestone from the Toora
quarries 4 feet 11 inches in perpendicular
height, and 8 feet 3 inches
long, the outer face sloping with an
angle of 51° 50'. After this discovery,
there was no longer any doubt that
the spaces between the several corners
of the Pyramid had been filled in with
similar blocks, which after insertion
had been shaped to the required

angle, and then polished to an uniform
surface. It is conjectured that these
stones, with the exception of the two
found by Col. Vyse, were taken away

during the time of the Khalifs, for
building purposes at Cairo. They were
in their place in the time of Abd-el-Lateef,
who speaks of the extreme
nicety with which the stones of which
the pyramid is constructed have been
prepared and adjusted, a nicety so precise
that not even a needle or hair can
be inserted between any two of them.
The same author corroborates Herodotus
in his assertion, that these polished
exterior stones were covered with writing,
and adds, “These inscriptions are
so numerous that if those only which
are seen on the surface of these two
pyramids were copied upon paper, more
than 10,000 pages would be filled with
them.” The stones which now appear
on the exterior are of various sizes,
varying from 2 feet to 5 feet in depth:
the first layer is laid in the rock, and
the others, each receding about a foot,
form, as it were, a staircase. The
mortar used appears to be made of
crushed red bricks, gravel, sand, Nile
mud, and lime.
The method employed in the construction
of pyramids has been already
described, and is applicable in all its
general features to the Great Pyramid.
The rock has been carefully levelled
all round, and a nucleus of native rock,
about 22 feet high, left in the interior.
As to how the stones were raised into
their places and what was the form of
the machines mentioned by Herodotus,
nothing is known for certain, but probably
Mr. Petrie's supposition, already
given, is correct. “The notion of
Diodorus that machines were not yet
invented is sufficiently disproved by
common sense, and by the assertion of
Herodotus. It is certainly singular,
that the Egyptians, who have left
behind them so many records of their
customs, should have omitted every
explanation of their mode of raising
the enormous blocks they used. Some
have imagined inclined planes, without
recollecting what their extent would be
when of such a height and length of
base; and, though the inclined plane
may have been employed for some purposes,
as it was in sieges by the Assyrians
and others, as a “bank” (2 Kings
xix. 32; 2 Samuel xx. 15) for running
up the movable towers against a perpendicular
wall, it would be difficult to
adapt it to the sloping face of a pyramid,
or to introduce it into the interior
or a large temple.”—Rawlinson's Herodotus.
The Dimensions of the Great Pyramid
have been variously stated at
different times by ancient and modern
writers Herodotus makes it 8 plethra
(800 ft.) in length on each side at the
base, and the same in height; this last
measured no doubt not vertically, but
along the sloping side. Diodorus
makes it 7 plethra (700 ft.) in length,
and 6 (600 ft.) in height. Pliny gives
the length at 883 ft. Nine modern
writers have equally varied in their
calculations.
The measurements made by Mr.
Petrie in 1880-2 are by far the most
accurate ever published. He gives the
length of the sides of the Great Pyramid
on the level of the original platform
as follows:—
ft. ins.
North side 755 9.4
East side 755 7.7
South side 755 9.5
West side 755 8.6
Mean length 755 8.8
The original height he calculates to
have been 481 ft. 4 in. The actual
present height is 451 ft. The area of
the original base was 63,444 square
yards, or rather more than 13 acres
The space covered by this pyramid is
said to equal the area of Lincoln's Inn
Fields; and its solid contents have
been calculated at 85,000,000 cubic ft.

It may be interesting to compare its
height with that of other well-known
edifices. The tower of Strasburg
Cathedral, the highest in Europe, is
461 ft. high. The dome of St. Peter's
at Rome, 429 ft. high. The dome of
St. Paul's, London, 404 ft. high.
Having now given the history, and
described the exterior, of the Great
Pyramid, the next thing is to accomplish
the task, which most travellers
think it necessary to set themselves, of
getting to the top of it. The Ascent is usually made from the N.E. corner.
Some pronounce the getting to the top
to be a very fatiguing business, while
others declare that it is the easiest
thing possible. Some speak of the
giddiness they experienced, and others
affirm that the weakest head has
nothing to fear. The truth may be
said to lie between these two extremes,
at least for those who are neither very
old nor very young, very strong-headed
nor very subject to vertigo: the not
altogether inactive may find it a little
fatiguing; and heads that are unaccustomed
to going aloft, either on rigging
or Alps, may feel a little dizzy. The
following account gives a good idea of
the ascent. If the traveller has nerve
and determination enough, he should
insist on no Arabs accompanying him
but those who have been told off for
the job.
“On looking up, it was not the
magnitude of the pyramids which
made me think it scarcely possible
to achieve the ascent, but the unrelieved
succession, almost infinite, of
bright yellow steps, a most fatiguing
image. Three strong and respectable-looking
Arabs now took me in charge.
One of them, seeing me pinning up
my gown in front that I might not
stumble over, gave me his services as
lady's maid. He tied up my gown all
round, and tied it in a most squeezing
knot, which lasted all through the
enterprise. We set out from the N.E.
corner. By far the most formidable
part of the ascent was the first 6 or 8
blocks. If it went on to the top thus
broken and precipitous, the ascent
would, I felt, be impossible. Already
it was disagreeable to look down, and
I was much out of breath. One of my
Arabs carried a substantial camp-stool,
which had been given me in London,
with a view to this very adventure—
that it might divide the higher steps,
some of which, being 4 ft. high, seem
impracticable enough beforehand. But
I found it better to trust to the strong
and steady lifting of the Arabs in such
places, and, above everything, not to
stop at all, if possible; or, if one must
stop for breath, to stand with one's
face to the pyramid. I am sure the
guides are right in taking people
quickly. The height is not so great
in itself: it is the way in which it is
reached that is trying to look back
upon. It is trying to some heads to
sit on a narrow ledge, and see a dazzling
succession of such ledges for 200
or 300 ft. below; and then a crowd of
diminutive people looking up to see
whether one is coming bobbing down
all that vast staircase. I stopped for a
few seconds 2 or 3 times at good broad
corners or ledges. When I left the
angle, and found myself ascending the
side, the chief difficulty was over; and
I cannot say that the fatigue was at
all formidable. The greater part of
one's weight is lifted by the Arabs at
each arm; and when one comes to a
4-ft. step, or broken ledge, there is a
third Arab behind. When we arrived
at a sort of recess, broken in the angle,
my guides sported two of their English
words, crying out, ‘Half vay' with
great glee. The last half was easier
than the first. I felt, what proved to
be true, that both must be easier than
the coming down.”—H. Martineau.
At the top there is a space about
30 ft. square. “I was agreeably surprised,”
says the writer last quoted,
“to find at the top, besides blocks
standing up which gave us some shade,
a roomy and even platform, where we
might sit and write, and gaze abroad,
and enjoy ourselves, without even seeing
over the edge unless we wished
it.” The View from the summit is
extensive, and, during the inundation,
peculiarly interesting and characteristic
of Egypt. The canals winding through
the plain, or the large expanse of

water when the Nile is at its highest,
and the minarets of Cairo, the citadel,
and the range of the Mokattam hills
in the distance, with the quarries of
Masárah, whence so many of the
blocks used for building the pyramids
were taken, are interesting features in
this peculiar landscape ; and the re¬freshing
appearance of the plain,
whether covered with water or with its
green vegetation, are striking contrasts
to the barren desert on the W. To
the southward are the pyramids of
Abooseer, Sakkárah, and Dashóor : to
the northward the heights of Aboo
Roásh ; and a little to the E. of N. are
the 2 causeways built by the Arab
kings of Egypt, which some suppose
to have served for the transport of the
stones from the pyramids to Cairo.
The descent is generally made by
the same way as the ascent, but it can
be made down the S. W. corner. It
should not be forgotten that a high
wind is destructive of any enjoyment
to be gained by an ascent of the py¬ramid,
and a clear day is necessary for
appreciating the view. Before midday
is, as a rule, the best moment for
avoiding the wind and gaining the
view. Sunrise and sunset produce, of
course, their own peculiar effects ; but,
unless preparations are made for en¬camping,
they involve an early start
and a late return.
Interior.-- Before penetrating to the
interior of the Great Pyramid, it will be
well to have some idea of those internal
peculiarities which distinguish it from
any other specimen of pyramidal con¬struction,
and which chiefly constitute

SECTION OF THE GREAT PYRAMID. A. Pyramid when cased and entire. B. Pyramid as at present. C. base of Pyramid. D. Natural rock, conglomerate. a. Entrance. b. Descending passage. c. Horizontal continuation of b. d. Subterranean chamber. e. Passage out of d. f. Pit dug by Col. H. Vyse. g. Granite block closing upper passage. h. Passage forced by Khalif El Mamoon. i. Ascending gallery. j. Mouth of well. k. Well. l. Horizontal gallery leading to Queen's Chamber. m. Queen's Chamber. n. Great Gallery o. Vestibule. p. King's Chamber. q. Sarcophagus in King's Chamber. r. Davidson's Chamber. s. Wellington's Chamber. t. Nelson's Chamber. u. Lady Arbuthnot's Chamber. v. Campbell's Chamber. w. Air-passages.

its claim, according to Mr. Piazzi
Smyth and writers who hold his views,
to be considered as intended for some
higher purpose than that of holding a
king's body. As has been said in the
remarks on pyramidal structures in
general, an ordinary pyramid is a solid
mass of stone, erected over a well leading
to a sepulchral chamber, excavated
in the solid rock which forms the
platform of the building. This chamber
is duly in its place in the Great
Pyramid (d), and is mentioned by Herodotus
and Pliny, though their statements
that a communication existed
with the Nile, by means of which
water was introduced, so as to inundate
the sepulchral chambers, appears to
be inaccurate, as the bottom of the
chamber is considerably above the level
of the high Nile at the present time,
and must have been still more so in
the days when the pyramid was built:
moreover, an excavation, 36 ft. in depth,
by Col. Howard Vyse (f), sunk diagonally
in the sepulchral chamber (d),
failed to reveal any signs of this subterranean
communication. The direct
way to this chamber is by a passage
306 ft. long (b), leading from the main
entrance of the pyramid, and it is
supposed that if Herodotus, Strabo,
and Pliny were ever at all inside the
pyramid, this passage and well were all
they knew of its interior.
Of the entrance itself (a) no sign
was visible in the smooth and polished
surface of the pyramid's sides as they
presented themselves to the travellers
of those days; and even if, which is
not at all certain, the old Egyptians
revealed to privileged strangers the
secret of the opening (Strabo speaks of
a movable stone, and Mr. Petrie has
found traces of such a stone in the
entrance to the Dashóor pyramid), and
allowed them to see or hear of the
subterranean chamber, no hint was
given of there being anything else
hidden within that enormous mass;
nor did anything in that long passage
suggest to the most inquisitive eye the
possibility of other passages and other
chambers. The pyramid was probably
first broken into during the wars of
the VIIth to the Xth Dynasties, In
the time of Strabo the interior would
appear to have been accessible, but it
was closed up at some uncertain time,
and was again violated by the Arabs
in the time of the Khalif El-Mamoon,
the son of the famous Haroon or
Rasheed. Tradition, and the romancing
story-tellers of his day, declared that
the pyramids had been built by “Saurid
ibn Salnook, a king of Egypt who
lived before the flood,” who had placed
in them all kinds of treasures, including
a “cock made of precious stones,” and
“a quantity of gold coins put up in
columns, every piece of which was the
weight of 1000 dinars.” Incited by
these stories, the Khalif ordered the
engineers of the day to discover the
entrance and open the pyramid. In
order more effectually to deceive those
who should attempt to violate the
tomb, the Egyptians had placed the
passage 23 ft. from the centre. The
workmen of the Khalif commenced, as
was natural enough, and as the Egyptians
foresaw, in the centre of the face,
and with iron, fire, and vinegar, quarried
their way through the solid masonry.
The labour must have been excessive;
but, when they had penetrated to the
distance of about 100 ft., the sound, or
the falling of some stones, accidentally
disclosed the vicinity of the real passage,
15 ft. to their left, by which they
continued to the great gallery and the
two chambers. As they returned, they
cleared the real passage to its mouth,
being more commodious than the rough
way they had forced, for the ingress
and egress of the workmen. Access
was thus at length obtained to the
place of the wished-for treasures, and
great hopes were entertained, say the
Arab historians, of finding a rich reward
for their toil. But these hopes
were doomed to end in disappointment.
The chamber indeed was “a right
noble apartment … of polished granite
throughout; in blocks squared and
true, and so large that 8 floors it, 8
roofs it, 8 flags the ends, and 16 the
sides; and all put together with such
exquisite skill that the joints are
barely discernible to the closest inspection.”
But all there was in it was a
stone chest without a lid. Clearly the

pyramid had been previously entered,
as we have already seen, and the
Khalif was about to abandon his vain
search when the people began to
evince their discontent and to censure
his ill-placed avidity. To check their
murmurs, he had recourse to artifice.
He secretly ordered a large sum of
money to be conveyed to and buried
in the innermost part of the excavated
passage; and the subsequent discovery
of the supposed treasure, which was
found to be about equal to what had
been expended, satisfied the people, and
the Khalif gratified his own curiosity
at the expense of their labour, their
money, and their unsuspecting credulity.
Abd-el-Hôkm says that a statue
resembling a man was found in the
sarcophagus, and in the statue (mummy-case)
was a body, with a breastplate of
gold and jewels, bearing characters
written with a pen which no one understood.
Others mention an emerald
vase of beautiful workmanship. But
the authority of Arab writers is not
always to be relied on; and it may be
doubted whether the body of the king
was really deposited in the sarcophagus.
Lord Munster found in the second
pyramid the bones of an ox, which he
brought with him to England: but
from these no conclusion can be drawn,
as they may have been taken into it
after it was opened, either by men or
wild beasts; neither of whom were
aware how much they might puzzle
future antiquaries with speculations
about the bones of Apis.
That both the pyramids had been
opened before the time of the Arabs
is exceedingly probable, as we find
the Egyptians themselves had in many
instances plundered the tombs of
Thebes; and the fact of its having been
closed again is consistent with experience
in other places. Belzoni's tomb
had been rifled and re-closed, and
the same is observed in many Theban
tombs, when discovered by modern
excavators.
The forced passage of the Khalif
could once be followed for a great
distance from the point where the
upper and lower passages join; but it is
now filled with stones, brought from the
excavations in the pyramid. The Khalif's
workmen, in the course of their labours,
cleared the real passage to its mouth,
which was more convenient for their
ingress and egress than the rough way
they had forced. The way thus opened
by El-Mamoon was not again closed,
and people continued to go in and out.
But no further discoveries were made
till, in 1763, when Mr. Davidson,
British Consul at Algiers, discovered
another room over the King's Chamber.
This was followed in 1839 by Col.
Howard Vyse's discovery of four other
chambers, one above another over
Davidson's chamber (r), which he
called respectively Wellington's (s),
Nelson's (t), Lady Arbuthnot's (u),
and Campbell's chamber (v). No more
hollow spaces have since been discovered,
though many explorers, convinced
that the hollow portion of the
pyramid was greatly out of proportion
to its solid substance, have restlessly
tried in every direction in the hope of
finding something.
Mr. Petrie's careful survey, already
alluded to, has added more to the
accurate knowledge of the dimensions
of the pyramid inside and out
than any previous explorations.
A Visit to the Inside is not a very
pleasant task, and, on the whole, it is
perhaps more fatiguing than going to
the top; the close air, the scrambling,
and the dust all contribute to make it
disagreeable. Nervous ladies had certainly
better not attempt it. Miss
Martineau says: “To the tranquil the
inside of the pyramid is sufficiently
airy and cool for the need of the hour.
But it is a dreadful place in which to
be seized with a panic, and no woman
should go who cannot trust herself to
put down panic by reason. There is
absolutely nothing to fear but from
oneself: no danger of bad falls, or of
going astray, or of being stifled. The
passages are slippery: but there are
plenty of notches; and a fall could
hardly be dangerous—unless at one
place, the entrance upon the passage
to the King's Chamber … The one
danger is from the impression upon
the senses of the solidity and vastness

of the stone structure in such darkness.”
As has been advised in the
Preliminary Remarks, magnesium wire
should be taken for the purpose of
seeing the King's Chamber to advantage,
and each person would do well to
have a candle to himself, and matches
in his pocket: there will be plenty of
candidates for carrying water, but no
more Arabs than is absolutely necessary
should be allowed to enter, as they
only add to the dust and heat, and
seem to think that the more noise they
make the greater will be the impression
of awe made on the mind of the
visitor.
The Entrance (a) is, like that of all
other pyramids, on the northern face,
about 24 ft. from the true centre, and
45 ft. from the ground. It is reached
by climbing over a heap of stones and
rubbish which have accumulated below.
Over it is a block of immense size, on
which are four other large blocks, resting
against each other, so as to form
a pent-roof arch, and so serving to
take off the superincumbent weight
from the roof of the passage. The
hieroglyphic inscription over the entrance
is modern. The position of the
stones in the body of the pyramid is
horizontal, but at the entrance they
follow the inclination of the passage,
which is an angle of 26° 31′. This
passage (b) is 3 ft. 5 in. high and 3 ft.
11 in. wide, and is roofed with well-wrought
and closely fitted stores. It
continues in the same incline for 340
ft., and with such exactness that the
sky is visible from the farther end. It
then runs, with somewhat smaller
dimensions, for 27 ft. farther in a horizontal
direction, and ends in a subterranean
chamber (d), already spoken of
as the sepulchral chamber common to
all pyramids. This chamber is 46 ft.
long, 27 ft. broad, and 11 ft. 6 in. high,
and the roof of it is more than 90 ft.
below the base of the pyramid. It
has been left in a rough and unfinished
state. Into here, if anywhere, must
have flowed the water of the Nile
through the canal mentioned by Herodotus,
but though Col. H. Vyse excavated
36 ft. down, he discovered no
signs of it. From the S. side of the
chamber issues a narrow passage 53 ft.
long, ending abruptly in nothing.
All this, however, is seldom seen by
the ordinary visitor. We return to
join him at a point in the descending
passage 63 ft. from the entrance. Here
is seen the end of a granite block (g),
once carefully connected by a triangular
piece of stone fitting into the roof of
the passage, and secured in that position
by an iron cramp on either side. It
was probably the falling of this stone
which revealed to the workmen of El-Mamoon
the existence of the entrance
passage. But as they were unable to
remove the granite block it had concealed, this block still remains in its
original place; and in order to avoid
and pass above it, you turn to the right
by the forced passage (h) that these
workmen made, and after climbing a
few rough steps find yourself at the
upper extremity of the block, and in
another passage (i), the entrance to
which this block had sealed. This
upper passage continues ascending at
nearly the same angle as the lower one
for 129 ft., until what is called the
Great Gallery (n) is reached.
At this point a horizontal passage
(i) branches off, 127 ft. long, leading
to what is called the Queen's Chamber
(m). Near the end of this passage,
not far from the chamber, there is the
descent of a step, after which the
passage becomes higher. The Queen's
Chamber
is 18 ft. 10 in. long, 17 ft.
broad, and 20 ft. high in the centre.
It is roofed with blocks of stone resting
against one another, in the manner of a
pent-house, like those over the entrance
of the pyramid; and in order to give
them strength they have been carried
a long way into the masonry. The
stones in the side-walls are admirably
fitted together, so that the joints can
scarcely be traced; and an incrustation
of salt has tended to give them the
appearance of having been hewn in the
solid rock. On the E. side, a short
way from the door, is a sort of niche
or recess, built with stones projecting
one beyond the other. The object of
this niche is not known; the Arabs,
probably in the hope of finding treasure,
have broken into the masonry at the

back for some distance. An excavation
in the floor by Sir G. Wilkinson
revealed no signs of a sepulchral pit.
This chamber is 67 ft. above the base
of the pyramid, 407 ft. below the
original summit, and 71 ft. below the
King's Chamber. According to Col.
H. Vyse, Sir G. Wilkinson, and Mr.
Petrie, it stands immediately under the
apex of the pyramid. On each side of
it are air-holes, similar to those in the
King's Chamber (see below).
Returning to the commencement of
the horizontal passage, immediately on
the right of the Great Gallery, is the
mouth of an opening, commonly called
the well (j, k). It is a passage partly
vertical, partly slanting and irregular,
which leads down into the descending
passage from the entrance to the subterranean
cavern. It is 191 ft. deep,
and 2 ft. 4 in. square. This well is cut
through the masonry, which evidently
proves that it was an afterthought,
and was probably made for the purpose
of affording a means of communication
after the closing of the upper passage
with the block of granite above mentioned.
The workmen having by it
reached the lower passage could ascend
to the entrance. The Great Gallery
continues to ascend at the same angle
as the passage of which it is a continuation.
It is 151 ft. long, 28 ft.
high, and nearly 7 ft. wide, but this
width is reduced one-half by a stone
ramp on each side 20 in. wide and 2 ft.
high. Notches are cut in the floor at
intervals, which are supposed to have
some connection with the machinery
by which the sarcophagus in the King's
Chamber was raised; as it is, they serve
as welcome footholds on the slippery
surface of the smooth and polished
stone. There are 8 courses of stone in
the side walls, which project one over
the other, so giving the gallery the
appearance of being arched. At the
end of the Great Gallery is an ascending
step into a Vestibule (o), formerly
closed according to some authors with
4 granite portcullises, sliding in grooves
of the same stone, which concealed
and stopped the entrance to anything
beyond. On the other side of these,
one of which remains in its original
position, is a short passage leading
into
The King's Chamber (p), the principal
apartment of the pyramid, 34 ft.
6 in. long, 17 ft. 2 in. broad, and 19 ft.
1 in. high. The floor is 141 ft. from
the base of the pyramid, and its position
is not exactly under the apex, but a
little southward and eastward of the
vertical line. The roof is flat, and
formed of simple blocks of granite,
resting on the side-walls, which are
built of the same materials; and so
truly and beautifully are these blocks
fitted together that the edge of a penknife
could not be inserted between
them. At the upper end, placed N.
and S., is the sarcophagus (q), of red
granite or porphyry like the blocks:
“the only and one thing,” says Sandys,.
“which this huge mass contained
within its darksome entrails.” It is
without a lid, and totally devoid of
hieroglyphics or any ornamental carving.
The measurements given of it by
different authors are various. Taking
those of Mr. Petrie we find the outside
length to be 89 · 6 in.; the outside width
38 · 5 in.; the inside length 78 · 06 in.;
the inside width 26 · 8 in.; the outer
height 41 · 3 in.; the inner depth 34 · 4
in. On being struck, it emits a very
fine sound, as of a deep-toned bell;
but the foolishness of travellers in
endeavouring to verify this assertion,
and also to carry off pieces of the stone,
will end in reducing it to a mere fragment.
It is a bad example, too, for
the Arabs, who want no encouragement
to the wanton destruction of relics of
antiquity. The object of this stone
chest, in which most Egyptologists
agree to see nothing but a simple
sarcophagus, is the subject of much
ingenious conjecture on the part of a
few, of whose views Mr. Piazzi Smyth
may be considered as the chief exponent.
He sees in the “coffer,” as he calls it,
a standard measure of capacity and
weight for all ages. His views, which
are curious, but certainly not conclusive,
on this and the pyramids generally,
will be found at length in his book,
'Our Inheritance in the Great Pyramid.'
In the side walls of the King's
Chamber are small holes or tubes,

similar to those already mentioned in
the Queen's Chamber, the use of which
perplexed every one until Colonel
Howard Vyse believed he had ascertained
their real use, as tubes to conduct
air into the interior of the pyramid.
They have been traced to a
termination some way within the exterior
courses of stone, and cannot
have been air-holes, except during the
progress of the construction. One is
on the N., and the other on the S. side of
the chamber, about 3 ft. from the floor.
Over the King's Chamber is another
room (r), or rather entresol, which, like
those above it, was evidently intended
to protect the roof of that chamber
from the pressure of the mass of
masonry above. The ascent to it was
by means of small holes cut into the
wall at the S.E. corner of the great
gallery, at the top of which was the
entrance of a narrow passage leading
into it. This room is not more than
3 ft. 6 in. high; and the floor, which
is the upper side of the stones forming
the roof of the chamber below, is very
uneven. Its roof also consists of
granite blocks, like that of the King's
Chamber, and serves as the floor of
another entresol (s); above which are
three other similar low rooms (t, u, v),
the uppermost of which has a pentroof,
made of blocks placed against
each other, like those of the Queen's
Chamber, and over the entrance of the
pyramid.
On the stones in the 3 uppermost
chambers were found some hieroglyphics,
painted in red ochre, presenting,
besides the quarry marks of the workmen,
the oval of King Khufu (Cheops).
In the chamber below the upper one
is another royal oval (a), a variation of
the first, but which by some
has been taken to be that
of another king, Noo Shoofoo,
and an argument drawn
that the two were brothers,
and shared the throne, and
that the so-called Queen's
Chamber was for one, and
the King's Chamber for the
other. The name is found in both forms
in an adjacent tomb. Noo or Knum
is sometimes interpreted “builder,”
a title which may well have been given
to Shoofoo.

It may seem remarkable that, while
the roofs of these chambers are smooth
and even, the floors are left rough, the
inequalities of the stones in some
places being of several feet; but this
only shows that they were not intended
for any use beyond that of relieving
the king's chamber from the superincumbent
weight. Towards the ends
of the blocks in the floor of the uppermost
room are small square holes, the
object of which it is difficult to determine.
They are probably connected
with their transport from the quarry, or
their elevation to their present position.
These chambers are seldom visited,
the ascent without a ladder being
extremely difficult: nor is there anything
to make it worth the ordinary
traveller's while. He will probably
have had quite enough scrambling and
crawling by the time he reaches the
king's chamber, and may think the
sight of that a sufficient reward for his
exertions. “There is nothing else like
it,” says Miss Martineau, “no catacomb
or cavern in the world; there never
was, and surely there never will be …
the symmetry and finish so deepen the
gloom as to make (it) seem like a fit
prison-house for fallen angels.” And
very like fallen angels one may be disposed
to think the attendant Arabs
as they shout, and hollow, and scream
in the almost black-darkness. It is
with a feeling of relief, as of a task
accomplished, that the entrance and
daylight are once more reached. Care
should be taken on coming out, if it is
evening, or the wind is cool, to have
some warm covering to put on.
g. The Second Pyramid.History.
Herodotus writes thus of this pyramid,
which stands about 500 ft. to the S.W.
of the Great Pyramid: — “Cheops,
having reigned 50 years, died, and
was succeeded by his brother Cephren,
who followed the example of his
predecessor. Among other monuments
he also built a pyramid, but much less
in size than that of Cheops, I measured
them both. It has neither
underground chambers, nor any canal

flowing into it from the Nile, like the
other, where the tomb of its founder is
placed in an island surrounded by
water. The lowest tier of this pyramid
is of Ethiopian stone of various colours
(granite). It is 40 ft. smaller than its
neighbour. Both are built on the same
hill, which is about 100 ft. high.”
Diodorus has the following: “On the
death of this king, his brother Cephren
succeeded to the throne, and reigned
56 years. Some say he was his son, by
name Chabryïs, and not his brother.
All, however, agree that on his accession,
wishing to emulate his predecessor,
he built the second pyramid, similar to
the other in its style of building, but
far inferior in size, each face being
only one stade in length at its base.
On the larger one is inscribed the sum
spent in herbs and esculent roots for
the workmen, amounting to upwards
of 1600 talents. The smaller one has
no inscription, but on one side steps
are cut to ascend it.”
The Cephren of Herodotus is now
considered to be the Khafra of the
monuments (see p. 47); his name is
not found on any stone in this pyramid,
but it occurs in many tombs in the
neighbourhood, and the magnificent
statue of him, found with eight other
smaller ones by Mariette Pasha in the
granite and alabaster temple near the
Sphinx, proves the high state of civilisation
at which the Egyptians had
already arrived; while the hieroglyphics
it bears are a sufficient proof, were
any further needed, that the builders
of the Pyramids were acquainted
with the art of writing. According
to the Tables of Abydus and Sakkárah,
Khafra was not the immediate successor of Shoofoo, one, King Ratatef,
whose reign was probably of short
duration, intervening.
Exterior.—The size of this pyramid
is not much inferior to that of the
Great Pyramid, and the fact of its
standing on higher ground gives it the
appearance, when seen from certain positions,
of greater height. The following
are the dimensions given by Mr. Petrie:
Length of side 706 ft. 3 in.
Original height 472 ft.
Area 55,419 sq. yds.
The number of granite blocks lying
about prove the correctness of Herodotus's
assertion that the lowest tier
was of “variegated Ethiopic stone” on
the outside. The remainder was built
like the Great Pyramid, partly of the
nummulite rock from the neighbourhood,
and partly of stone from the
other side of the river; but the stones
have been less carefully selected, and
the spaces in some parts of the interior
appear to have been filled in with
rubble. Like the Great Pyramid, this
one also formerly presented a smooth
and polished surface. Some of the
casing, indeed, still remains for about
130 or 150 ft. from the top. Except
for the purpose of examining this
casing, there is no object in mounting
to the summit, and the ascent is rather
difficult, not to say dangerous, as the
casing considerably projects beyond
and overhangs the part below. In the
smooth part there are holes cut to
serve as steps. It is a favourite amusement
with some travellers, when at the
top of the Great Pyramid, to give an
Arab a small backsheesh to run to the
bottom, then across the intervening
ground, and up to the top of the
Second Pyramid, over the smooth
space, in less than ten minutes. According
to the account of ancient
writers, the people of the neighbouring
village of Busiris were wont to practise
the same feat for a similar consideration.
Interior. — This pyramid has two
entrances, one at about the same relative
height as that of the Great Pyramid,
and the other in the pavement at
the base. Both descend at the same
angle for over 100 ft. At this point
they are closed by a granite portcullis.
The lower one then becomes horizontal,
and passes over an excavated chamber
34 ft. 3 in. long, 10 ft. 3 in. broad, and
about 8 ft. high. Soon after it begins
to ascend, and joins the upper passage,
which beyond the portcullis also becomes
horizontal, and proceeding on
ends in a chamber 46 ft. 6 in. long,
16 ft. 4 in. broad, and 22 ft. high,
called after the name of its re-discoverer,
Belzoni's Chamber. He reopened
this pyramid in 1816. In the

chamber is a sarcophagus of red granite
sunk in the floor, rather larger than
that in the Great Pyramid, and like it,
without sculpture or hieroglyphics. It
contained, when found by Belzoni, the
bones of an ox. From an Arabic
inscription in this chamber, it appeared
that the pyramid had been already
opened either by Sultan Ali Mohammed
or Sultan el-Azeez Othman, translators
differing in their versions.
An area sunk in the rock runs round
its northern and western face, parallel
with the pyramid, distant from it on
the N. 200, and on the W. 100 ft.
The object of thus cutting away the
rock was to level the ground for the
base of the pyramid, the hill in this
part having a slight fall towards the
E. and S.; which is very evident from
the N.W. corner of the scarped rock
being of great height, 32 ft. 6 in., and
gradually decreasing to its southern
and eastern extremities. In the level
surface below this corner the rock has
been cut into squares, measuring about
9 ft. each way, similar to those at
Tehneh near Minieh; showing the
manner in which the blocks were
taken out to form this hollow space,
and to contribute at the same time
their small share towards the construction
of the pyramid. On the face
of the rock on the W. and N. sides
are two inscriptions in hieroglyphics.
One contains the name of Rameses
II., and of an individual who held
the office of superintendent of certain
functionaries supposed to be attached
to the king, and officiating at Heliopolis.
The inscription is in intaglio, and
of much more modern style than the
hieroglyphics in the neighbouring
tombs; which would suffice to show,
if other evidence were wanting, how
much older the latter, and consequently
the pyramids themselves, are than this
king.
About 270 ft. to the E. of this
pyramid are the ruins of a building
(U), which was probably the temple
dedicated to king Khafra, here worshipped
in front of his tomb as a god.
h. The Third Pyramid.History.
The story of this pyramid is variously
told.
“After Cephren,” says Herodotus,
“Mycerinus, the son of Cheops, according
to the statement of the priests,
ascended the throne. He also built a
pyramid, much less than his father's,
being 20 ft. smaller. It is square:
each of its sides is 3 plethra long; and
it is made half-way up of Ethiopian
(granite) stone. There are some
Greeks,” he says, “who ascribe it to
the courtesan Rhodopis, but they are
in error, and do not appear to know
who she was, or surely they would not
have attributed to her the building of
a pyramid, which must have cost
thousands and thousands of talents.
Besides, Rhodopis did not live in the
time of Mycerinus, but of Amosis,
many years after the kings who built
these monuments.”
The account of Diodorus is somewhat
similar: “After them (Chembis
and Cephren) came Mycerinus, or, as
some call him, Mecherinus, the son of
the founder of the Great Pyramid. He
built the third, but died previous to its
completion.
Each side was made 3
plethra long at the base, with (a casing
of) black stone, similar to that called
Thebaïc, as far as the fifteenth tier,
the rest being completed with stone of
the same quality as the other pyramids.
Though inferior in size to the others,
it is superior in its style of building
and the quality of the stone. On the
N. side is inscribed the name of its
founder, Mycerinus. Some think
was erected as a tomb for Rhodopis
by certain monarchs who had loved
her”
Strabo repeats, with variations, the
fable rejected by Herodotus: — “At
some distance, on a more elevated part
of the hill, is the third, smaller than
the other two, but built in a more
costly manner. From the base to about
the middle it is of black stone, of which
they make mortars, brought from the
mountains of Ethiopia; and this being
hard and difficult to work rendered its
construction more expensive. It is
said to be the tomb of a courtesan,
built by her lovers, whom Sappho the
poetess calls Doricha, the friend of her

brother Charaxus, at the time that he
traded in wine to Naucratis. Others
call her Rhodope, and relate a story
that, when she was bathing, an eagle
carried off one of her sandals, and,
having flown with it to Memphis, let
it fall into the lap of the king as he sat
in judgment. Struck by this singular
occurrence and the beauty of the
sandal, the king sent to every part of
the country to inquire for its owner,
and, having found her at Naucratis, he
made her his queen, and buried her at
her death in this sepulchre.”
Pliny says, “The third pyramid is
less than the other two, but much more
elegant, being of Ethiopian stone, and
measures 363 ft. between the corners.”
Manetho, according to Eusebius and
Africanus, says that it was built by
Nitocris, the last sovereign of the VIth
Dynasty. The question as to who was
the founder of this pyramid is considered
to have been settled by the
discovery, by Col. H. Vyse, of a wooden
mummy case, now in the British Museum,
with the oval of King Menkera,
or Menkaoora, the Mencheres of Manetho.
As, however, there is evidence
of its having been enlarged, it is not
impossible that the addition to its size
may have been made by Nitocris.
Exterior.—The dimensions of this
pyramid are much less than those of
the two others. Mr. Petrie gives them
as follows:—
Length of side 346 ft. 2 in.
Height 215 ft.
The casing of granite, mentioned by
all writers, still covers it to a height
of 36 ft. 9 in. on the W. side, and 25
ft. 10 in. on the N. From the colour
of the granite, this pyramid has been
called by Arab writers the Red Pyramid.
The stones of the casing have
bevelled edges; a style of masonry
common in Syria, Greece, and Rome;
but round the entrance their surfaces
are smooth, and of a lower level than
the rest, as if something had been let
into that depressed part. Here perhaps
were the hieroglyphics containing the
name of Mycerinus, mentioned by
Diodorus.
This pyramid shows the mode, already
explained, of constructing these
monuments (not perceived in any of
the other two), in almost perpendicular
degrees or stories, to which a sloping
face has been afterwards added. For
it has been conjectured that all the
pyramids were built in this manner,
and that the statement of Herodotus,
“that they finished them from the top,”
is explained by their first filling up
the triangular spaces of the uppermost
degree. It is, however, true that at
the pyramids, as in other Egyptian
buildings, the stones were put up rough
and afterwards smoothed off to a level
surface.
Interior.—With the exception of a
statement by Edreesee writing in 1250
A.D., to the effect that “the Red
Pyramid had been opened a few years
before,” no tradition existed of any
attempt to open this pyramid, nor was
there any sign of an entrance. One or
two unsuccessful efforts to force an
opening were made at the beginning of
the century, but they only resulted in
making a hole in the north face and
throwing down numerous stones, which
encumbered the spot where the real entrance
was. The right entrance was
successfully discovered by Caviglia, and
the operations begun by him were
concluded by Col. H. Vyse, who found
that, like the others, this pyramid had
been already opened and rifled. The
entrance as usual is on the north side,
about 13 ft. from the base. Thence
a passage descends at an angle of 26°
2'. It is 104 ft. long, 28 of which are
lined with granite. At the end is
a vestibule with sculptured panels,
beyond which are granite portcullises.
A horizontal passage now leads to a
chamber 46 ft. long and 12 broad,
nearly under the apex of the pyramid.
Here was found the mummy case already
mentioned with the name of
Menkaoora. In the floor is a depression,
perhaps meant for a sarcophagus,
but no signs of one was found,
except some fragments of granite.
From this chamber, another passage,
entered from the floor, descends into
a second sepulchral chamber lined
with granite, in which was found a basalt
sarcophagus, without inscriptions,

but sculptured in compartments. Its
broken lid was found in the inclined
passage, and also a body, now in the
British Museum. The sarcophagus
was got out, and sent to England, but
the vessel carrying it foundered at sea.
There is another chamber again below
this, in which are niches, meant probably
for the reception of mummies.
Returning to the chamber first reached,
another passage is seen near the top of
the north side, which leads upwards
towards the exterior, but ends abruptly
after about 50 ft. It is conjectured
that this was the entrance passage to
the original pyramid; but that, when
the pyramid was enlarged, this entrance
was blocked up by the added masonry,
and the new entrance and passage
made probably from within, outwards.
The site on which this pyramid
stands has been made level by raising
on the eastern side a substructure, 10
ft. in height, composed of two tiers of
immense blocks.
As in the case of the Second Pyramid,
a ruined temple (v) stands about
40 ft. from the E. face of this one, intended
for the worship of the deified
royal occupant of the tomb. From it
leads a part of the causeway (L) for
bringing stones to the Third Pyramid.
Enclosing this group of monuments,
and the 3 small pyramids mentioned
below, is an enclosure (w) about 1200
ft. square, formed of rough stones
heaped on each other in the form of a
low rude wall. Similar heaps of stones
occur in parallel rows to the northward
of it, bounded by others which run
parallel to the western face of the
second pyramid.
i. Other Small Pyramids.
To the E. of the Great Pyramid are
3 small ones, built in degrees or stages.
The centre one (D) is stated by Herodotus
to have been erected by the
daughter of Cheops, of whom he relates
a ridiculous story, only surpassed
in improbability by another he tells
of the daughter of Rhampsinitus. It
is 122 ft. square, which is less than
the measurement given by the historian
of 1 1/2 plethrum, or about 150 ft.;
but this difference may be accounted
for by its ruined condition. From
an inscription preserved at Boolak, it
is probable that the third, or most
southerly, is the tomb of Hentsen,
another daughter of Shoofoo. All these
have descending passages leading to a
subterranean chamber, but nothing has
ever been found in any of them.
Three somewhat smaller pyramids
(T) again, stand to the S. of the Third
Pyramid. They also each have a passage
leading to a chamber; and in the
centre one is the name of the king
Menkaoora, painted on a stone in the
roof of its chamber, the same that
occurs on the wooden coffin of the
Third Pyramid. The roof is flat, and
above it is a space or entresol, as in
the Great Pyramid, to protect it from
the pressure of the upper part of the
building. In the chamber is a sarcophagus
of granite, without hieroglyphics
or sculpture of any kind. The
lid had been forced open before it was
found by Colonel Vyse, and is remarkable
for the ingenious contrivance by
which it was fastened. It was made
to slide into a groove, like the sliding
lids of our boxes; and its upper rim
(which projected on all sides to a level
with the four outer faces of the sarcophagus)
was furnished with a small
movable pin, that fell from the under
part of it into a corresponding hole,
and thus prevented the lid being drawn
back.
Of the remaining two pyramids, one
has not been finished; but in the
sepulchral chamber of the other a
sarcophagus was found containing
bones, said to be those of a female.
There are indications of the existence
of other pyramidal structures in
different parts of the Necropolis.
k. The Sphinx.—About a quarter
of a mile to the S.E. of the Great
Pyramid is the Sphinx, the most remarkable
object, next to the Pyramids,
existing on the Geezeh platform.
History.—No mention is made of
the Sphinx by any author or traveller
before the Roman period; a fact which,
as will be seen, goes to prove the fallacy

of attempting to argue the non-existence
of ancient monuments at the time
any account of the country was written,
from the circumstance of no mention
of such monument being made in that
history; just as, e.g., some people have
asserted that the Pyramids could not
have been built when Abraham or the
Israelites were in Egypt, because no
mention of them is made in the Bible.
Negative testimony is of little value in
such cases. Pliny gives a long account
of the Sphinx, and says that they
supposed it in his time to be the tomb
of Amasis of the XXVIth Dynasty.
Till quite recently most Egyptologists
were inclined to recognise in it the
work either of Thothmes IV. of the
XVIIIth Dynasty, or of Khafra the
builder of the Second Pyramid, but
the researches of Mariette Pasha would
seem to prove it to be of even greater
antiquity than the Pyramids. In the
museum at Cairo is a stone found by
him in a ruined building at the foot
of the southernmost of the three small
pyramids close to the Great Pyramid.
It appears to have formed part of a
wall. Among the inscriptions with
which it is covered are the following,
thus rendered by Mariette Pasha: “The
living Horus, the …, the king of
Upper and Lower Egypt, Shoofoo,
during his lifetime, has cleaned out
the temple of Isis, ruler of the Pyramid,
which is situated at the spot
where is the Sphinx, on the N.E. side
of the temple of Osiris, Lord of Rosatoo.
He has built his Pyramid where
the temple of this goddess is, and he
has also built the Pyramid of the princess
Hent-sen where this temple is.
The living Horus, the …, the king
of Upper and Lower Egypt, Shoofoo,
during his lifetime, has paid this honour
to his mother Isis, the divine mother
Athor having ordered him to have it
graven on a stone. And he has renewed
(the foundation) of the divine
offerings, and has built for them his
temple in stone, and a second time he
has also restored the gods (of this
temple) in the sanctuary.” After the
gods referred to follow representations
of their statues, accompanied by descriptions indicating their size, and
the materials of which they should
be made. Among them figures the
Sphinx, followed by this inscription,
“The place of the Sphinx of Hor-em-Khoo
is to the south of the temple of
Isis, ruler of the Pyramid, and to the
north (of the temple) of Osiris, Lord
of Rosatoo. The images of the god of
Hor-em-Khoo are in accordance with
the regulations.” Mariette Pasha thinks
that this monument, whether contemporaneous
with Cheops (a fact
which may be doubtful), or whether
belonging to a later epoch, proves that
“the Sphinx is anterior to Cheops,
since it figures on one of the monuments
which he restored.”
Description.—The sand in front of
the Sphinx having recently been removed,
the temple between the paws
is again visible. It is proposed to
build walls to prevent the sand falling
in again, but this will not be a very
easy matter. Commencing from the
edge of the rock, where it overhangs
the plain, a sloping descent, 135 ft.
long, cut in the rock, leads to a flight
of thirteen steps, below which is a
platform. Here are the remains of two
buildings, one apparently, from the
inscription, erected in the reign of
Septimius Severus, the name of Geta
being erased as on the triumphal arch
at Rome. From this platform another
flight of thirty steps leads to a paved
dromos enclosed within the paws of
the Sphinx. “This gradual approach,
during which the figure of the Sphinx
was kept constantly in the spectator's
view, rising above him as he descended,
was well adapted to heighten the impression
made by its colossal size, its
posture of repose, and calm majestic
expression of countenance.”—J. Kenrick. The clearing away of the sand
from this approach is a most difficult
and tedious operation, and as it accumulates
again in a very short time, every
successive attempt to clear the space
again requires the same labour to be
repeated. This accumulation of sand
was in former times prevented by crude
brick-walls, remains of which are still
visible; and it is probably to them
that the inscription set up there in the
time of “Antoninus and Verus” alludes,

in noticing the restoration of the walls.
As already stated, it is now proposed
to restore these walls.
An altar, three tablets, a lion, and
some fragments were discovered in the
space between the paws; but no entrance
could be found in that part,
and it is probable that the interior is
of solid rock. The altar stands between
the two paws, and shows, from
its position, that sacrifices were performed
before the sphinx, and that
processions took place along the sacred
area, which extended between the
forelegs to the breast, where a sort of
sanctuary stood, composed of three
tablets. One of these, of granite, attached
to the breast, formed the end of
the sanctuary, 14 ft. in height; and
two others, one on the rt., and the
other on the 1., of limestone, formed the
two sides. The last have been both
removed. At the entrance of the
sanctuary two low jambs projected, to
form a doorway, in the aperture of
which was a crouched lion, looking
towards the sphinx and the central
tablet. It is supposed that the fragments
of other lions found near this
spot indicated their position on either
side of the doorway, and others seem
to have stood on similar jambs near
the altar. On the granite tablet King
Thothmes IV. is represented offering
on one side incense, on the other a
libation to the figure of a sphinx, the
representative, no doubt, of the colossal
one above, with the beard and other
attributes of a god.
The title given to the Sphinx is Hor-em-Khoo (a) (“the Sun in
his resting-place”), from
which no doubt he was
styled “the Sun, Armachis,”
in the Greek inscription
of Balbillus. Like
other deities, he is said to
grant “power” and “pure
life” to the king; and there
is no doubt that, as Pliny observes,
this sphinx had the character of a local
deity, and was treated with divine
honours by the priests, and by strangers
who visited the spot. The side tablets
have similar representations of Rameses
II. offering to the same deity.


On a fractured part of the granite
tablet is the oval of Khafra, the
founder of the Second Pyramid. The
deification of the sphinx is singular,
because that fanciful animal is always
found to be an emblematical representation
of the king, the union of
intellect and physical force; and is of
common occurrence in that character
on monuments as early as the XIIIth
Dynasty.
The front paws, which are 50 feet
in length, are cased with hewn stone.
Upon them are cut some Greek exvotos,
or dedicatory inscriptions, one
of which, restored by Dr. Young, ran
as follows:—

The same scholar has thus rendered
it into English verse:—
“Thy form stupendous here the gods have
placed,
Sparing each spot of harvest-bearing land;
And with this mighty work of art have
graced
A rocky isle, encumbered once with sand;
And near the pyramids have bid thee stand:
Not that fierce sphinx that Thebes erewhile
laid waste,
But great Latona's servant, mild and bland;
Watching that prince beloved who fills the
throne
Of Egypt's plains, and calls the Nile his own
That heavenly monarch (who his foes defies)
Like Vulcan powerful (and like Pallas wise).'
ARRJAN.
The inscription is remarkable from its
allusion to the isolated position of this
monument of rock, and the notion of
the Egyptians sparing the cultivable
land, of which many instances occur in
the foundation of towns on the edge of
the desert.
We now come to that part of the
sphinx which was all that was visible
until lately, its head and body. The

body is 140 ft. long, and is formed of
the uncut natural rock, with pieces
of badly worked sandstone masonry
added here and there in order to make
it the required shape. The head is
cut out of the solid rock, and measures
nearly 30 feet from the top of the forehead
to the bottom of the chin, and
about 14 ft. across. It was formerly
covered with a cap, probably the pshent,
terminating in an asp erect, as seen in
the figures of the sphinx on the tablets
above mentioned. The wig still hangs,
a huge mass of stone, on either side
the head. Originally it had a beard,
fragments of which, now in the British
Museum, were found in the area below.
It is hardly necessary to say that the
idea of the sphinx in the abstract as a
female belongs to Greek mythology.
Traces of the red colour mentioned by
Pliny, “rubrica facies monstri colitur,”
may still be seen on the right cheek,
and the same colour was found on the
lions, and in the fragments of the small
sphinx found in the area. We may
agree with “Eothen” that, “Comely
the creature is, but the comeliness is
not of this world: the once worshipped
beast is a deformity and a monster to
this generation, and yet you can see
that those lips, so thick and heavy,
were fashioned according to some ancient
mould of beauty.” As Dean
Stanley says, “there is something
stupendous in the sight of that enormous
head;” and we may well wonder
with him “what it must have been
when on its head there was the royal
helmet of Egypt; on its chin the royal
beard; when the stone pavement by
which men approached the Pyramids
ran up between its paws; when immediately
under its heart an altar
stood, from which the smoke went up
into the gigantic nostrils of that nose,
now vanished from the face, never to
be conceived again” The mutilated
state of the face renders it impossible
to trace the outline of the features with
any accuracy, and the traveller must
draw upon his fancy and imagination
to decide whether they are cast in a
Negro, Nubian, or Egyptian mould,
whether they be sublimely beautiful or
sweetly smiling, calmly benevolent or
awe inspiring, typical of solemn majesty
or debased idolatry; quot homines, tot
sententix.
The best view of the face
of the sphinx is from a point a little
above it, on the road from the pyramids;
and the best time to visit is by the light
of the full moon.
Old Arab writers speak of it as a
talisman to keep the sand away from
the cultivated ground; and tradition
at one time says that it was mutilated
by a fanatic sheykh in the 14th centy.,
and that since then the sand had
made great encroachments. Certainly
in Abd el-Lateef's time it appears not
to have been disfigured, as he speaks of
the face as “very beautiful,” and of
the mouth as “graceful and lovely,
and, as it were, smiling graciously;”
and adds that the red colour was quite
bright and fresh. By the Arabs of the
present day it is known as Aboo el-hôl (the Father of Terror).
Whatever the object and origin of
the sphinx “its situation and significance
are worthy of its grandeur;”
and, “if it was the giant representative
of Royalty, then it fitly guards
the greatest of Royal sepulchres; and,
with its half-human, half-animal form,
is the best welcome and the best farewell
to the history and religion of
Egypt.”—A. P. Stanley.
l. The Temple of the Sphinx (incorrectly
so-called).—A short distance
to the S.E. of the sphinx is the building
(f) already mentioned as having
yielded the statue of Khafra now in
the Boolak Museum. The statue with
eight other smaller ones was found at
the bottom of a water-well, down
which at some unknown epoch they
had been thrown. The building itself
is wholly constructed of immense
blocks of red granite from Assooán,
lined in places with equally magnificent
blocks of alabaster. It consists of
a descending passage, leading to an
open area, divided into three aisles by
simple square columns and lintels,
which will remind the English visitor
of Stonehenge. At the E. end is a
kind of transept and a short passage
leading to a second but narrower
transept, where was the well—now

filled up—in which the statues of
Khafra were found. Some cynocephali
in hard green stone, the remains of
which are lying in the sand, were also
here; two smaller chambers terminated
the ends. Observe here the
enormous size of some of the granite
blocks: one measures upwards of 18 ft.
in length and is 7 ft. in height, the end
being so cut as to turn the corner and
add to the stability of the building.
Coming back to the aisled hall, we
enter what appears to be a mortuary
chamber at the S.W. corner of the
inner transept, and observe the six
niches for mummies, constructed in
two storeys, of large blocks of alabaster.
Similar chambers open from the
sloping passage. This singular building
is almost certainly a tomb-house,
constructed by Khafra for the reception
of the bodies of his family; but
no hieroglyphs have been found in any
part of it to solve the difficulties which
it suggests. This temple is connected
with the temple of the second pyramid
by a causeway cut in the rock, about a
quarter of a mile in length. The upper
temple is also constructed of massive
blocks of granite and alabaster, but
is in a more ruinous state than the
temple of the Sphinx. Mr. Petrie
believes that the arrangement of the
buildings points to the following order
of design: “First, the pyramid of
Khafra; secondly, the temple built
symmetrically in front of that pyramid;
third, the causeway, leading askew
from that temple down a ridge of rock;
fourth, the granite temple at the foot
of the causeway.
m. Tombs.—The pyramid platform
of Geezeh was, as has been already
mentioned, one of the cemeteries of
Memphis, and, as such, abounds in
tombs belonging to various epochs;
but the greater number, and those to
which the greatest interest attaches,
belong to the Old Empire, i.e. the
period extending from the Ist to the
XIth Dynasties. A detailed account
of the mode of construction and
arrangement usual in the building of
the Egyptian tombs has already been
given (see p. 87). It will be sufficient
here to indicate briefly that they
consist generally of three parts: 1, an
exterior temple or chapel, containing
one or more chambers always accessible
by means of doors opening at will;
2, a vertical well leading from one of
these chambers, or from some concealed
corner of the chapel to 3, a sepulchral
chamber, in which was buried the
mummy: the lower part of the well
and the whole of the sepulchral
chamber being cut out of the solid
rock. Sometimes the exterior temple
was a constructed monument on the
plain; sometimes it was hollowed out
of the side of the hill. Specimens of
both kinds occur at the Pyramids.
Under the Old Empire the usual
form of a constructed exterior temple
was pyramidal. “They have,” says
Mariette Pasha, “the form of a mastabah,
a sort of truncated pyramid, covering
like a massive lid the well, at the
bottom of which reposes the mummy.”
The entrance is nearly always on the
E. side. Two or three good examples
of a mastabah are seen to the E. of the
Great Pyramid.
In the eastern face of the platform
(a) are tombs containing sculpture,
and the names of Shoofoo (Cheops)
and other ancient kings. One of them
(I), a little below the line of the rocks,
and nearly in a line with the S.E.
angle of the Great Pyramid, near the
village of Kafr, has been called the
Tomb of Numbers, from its containing
a curious and satisfactory specimen of
the Egyptian numbers, from units to
thousands, prefixed to goats, cattle,
and asses, which are brought before the
scribes to be registered as part of the
possessions of the deceased. The representations
and hieroglyphics are
very much obliterated.
There are several tombs in the perpendicular
face of the lower rock behind
the sphinx, and a short distance
behind this rock is a tomb called
Campbell's Tomb (u), after the Consul-General
in Egypt at the time of its
discovery by Col. H. Vyse. The upper
part of it is completely gone, but it
offers a good example of the well or
pit which forms the second part of a
tomb. It is cut in the rock to a depth

of 53 ft. 6 in., and is of the period of
the later monarchy.
In the high rock between this and
the Great Pyramid are several pits
where sarcophagi were found; and in
one of them was discovered a gold ring
bearing the name of Shoofoo. In a
tomb to the S.E. of the Great Pyramid
occurs an oval bearing the name of
Seneferoo of the IIIrd Dynasty.
To the S.E. of the Second Pyramid
are some tombs (m, n), with the ovals
of Khafra and Menkaoora; and there
are some other smaller ones with
sculptures and hieroglyphics. In the
scarp of the rock to the W. of the same
pyramid are a dozen tombs (p) in
one of which (the 6th from the S.)
the Ceiling is remarkable, the stone
being cut in imitation of palm-tree
beams, reaching from wall to wall.
Other instances of this occur in Upper
Egypt, which shows that the houses of
the Egyptians (when the arch was not
preferred) were sometimes so roofed,
as at the present day. This tomb is
the third from the line of the S.W.
angle of the pyramid, going northwards
along the face of the rock.
To the W. of the Great Pyramid
are a number of tombs (H); and in
one of them, near the extremity, are
some interesting Sculptures. Trades,
boats, a repast, agricultural scenes, the
farm, the wine-press, and other subjects
are there represented; and it is
worthy of remark that the butchers
slaughtering an ox sharpen their red knives on a blue rod, which would
seem to indicate the use of steel at
this early period. In the sculptures
columns with the full-blown lotus
capital are represented, and the man
of the tomb seated in an armed chair
of very early form on a figured mat,
very like those now made in the Delta.
Beneath his chair is a favourite dog.
The long passage in this tomb has the
roof made in imitation of an arch, the
tympanum at the end being a single
block. The names of Shoofoo and
Aseskef, successor of Menkaoora, occur
in the sculptures; and in the next
tomb to the S. are the names of Shoofoo
and other old kings; Aimai, the
possessor of the tomb, having been
director of the temple of Shoofoo.
Three names of kings of the Vth
Dynasty occur in the tomb adjoining
this to the N.
These tombs, like those to the E. of
the Great Pyramid, afford good examples
of the constructed external
covering, or mastabah. Some of them
are of considerable size, though no
great height, and they are all built
with their sides inclining inwards
towards the top at an angle of 77°,
thus producing the appearance of a
truncated pyramid as mentioned above.
The mouth of the well, or pit, may be
noticed in nearly all.
n. The Causeways.—Herodotus, as
we have seen, speaks of the great
labour involved in bringing the finer
part of the stone of which the pyramids
were constructed from the Arabian hills
on the other side of the river, and says
that it took 10 years to make the
causeway, along which those for the
Great Pyramid were transported. This
causeway he describes as 5 stadia
(3000 ft.) long, 10 orgyes (60 ft.) wide,
and 8 orgyes (48 ft.) high. Remains
of it still exist (Z); but it can only be
traced for about 1400 ft., the rest being
buried in the alluvial soil gradually
deposited by the inundations. Its present
breadth, too, is only 32 ft., the
outer face having fallen, and there
being no signs of the “polished stones
adorned with the figures of animals”
(hieroglyphics), spoken of by Herodotus.
But its height of 85 ft. exceeds
that given by the historian, and as it
naturally reached to the height of the
rocky platform which Herodotus correctly
places at 100 ft. above the plain,
it is evident that he or his copyist
committed an oversight in giving 48 ft.
as the height. It was repaired by
the khalifs and Memlook kings, who
made use of the same causeway to
carry back to the “Arabian shore”
those blocks that had before cost so
much time and labour to transport
from its mountains; and several of
the finest buildings of the capital were
constructed with the stones of the
quarried pyramid.
There does not appear to have been

any causeway belonging to the Second
Pyramid except the one already alluded
to, which connects the upper and
lower temples of Khafra (see p. 259);
and were it not for the presence of the
causeway of the Third Pyramid, we
might attribute the northern one to
the Khalifs, and thus explain the statement
of Diodorus, who says, that,
owing to the sandy base on which it
was built, it had entirely disappeared
in his time. But he is speaking of
the mounds which he supposed to have
been erected on the platform itself, as
vast inclined planes to raise the stones
to the upper course of the pyramids.
And, moreover, the causeway which
leads to the Third Pyramid is certainly
of Egyptian, and not Arab workmanship.
Remains of this causeway still
exist (Y and l), and that part of it
remaining on the plain (Y) has an
opening (i) in the centre for the passage
of persons travelling by the edge of
the desert during the high Nile.
A short distance to the N. of this
causeway are a well with some palms,
and a big sycamore-fig tree (X). For
those who wish to remain for any time
in the neighbourhood of the pyramids
this spot affords a very good camping-ground.
Few persons probably will be content
with a single visit to the Pyramids;
and all would wish to fill in for
themselves the picture thus graphically
suggested: “it is only by going round
the whole place in detail that the contrast
between its present and its
ancient state is disclosed. One is inclined
to imagine that the Pyramids
are immutable, and that such as you
see them now such they were always.
Of distant views this is true; but
taking them near at hand, it is more
easy from the existing ruins to conceive
Karnak as it was than it is to
conceive the Pyramidal platform as it
was. The smooth casing of part of
the top of the Second Pyramid, and
the magnificent granite blocks which
form the lower stages of the third, serve
to show what they must have been all,
from top to bottom; the first and
second, brilliant white or yellow limestone,
smooth from top to bottom,
instead of those rude disjointed masses
which their stripped sides now present,
the third, all glowing with the red
granite from the First Cataract. As it
is, they have the barbarous look of
Stonehenge; but then they must have
shone with the polish of an age already
rich with civilization, and that is the
more remarkable when it is remembered
that these granite blocks which furnished
the outside of the third and
inside of the first, must have come all
the way from the First Cataract. It
also seems from Herodotus and others,
that these smooth outsides were
covered with sculptures. Then you
must build up or uncover the massive
tombs, now broken or choked with
sand, so as to restore the aspect of vast
streets of tombs, like those on the
Appian Way, out of which the Great
Pyramid would rise like a cathedral
above smaller churches. Lastly, you
must enclose the two other Pyramids
with stone precincts and gigantic gateways,
and above all you must restore
the Sphinx as he was in the days of
his glory.”—A. P. Stanley.
About 10 m. due W. of the Pyramids
is a hill of reddish miocene formation,
which looks from a distance like a
pyramid. All round it are large
quantities of petrified wood, some of
the trees being of large size. It can be
reached on donkeys in about two-and-a
half hours from the Great Pyramid.
o. The Pyramid of Aboo Roash.
Few will care to extend the excursion
to Aboo Roásh, about 5 m. to the N. of
the Geezeh platform; though, if encamped
at the latter place, a walk or
ride to the pyramid of Aboo Roásh
might be combined with a search for a
hyæna in the “Red Mountain” in its
vicinity, where this animal is sometimes
found by the Arabs.
About one-third of the way are seen
inland to the right, two stone bridges
of several arches, with inscriptions
showing that they were built by the
Sultans Nasr Mohammed and El-Ashraf
respectively, and the dates of
their erection and repair. A little
farther on, on the edge of the desert,

are the remains of an old village, now
a heap of pottery and bricks.
The pyramid stands on a range of
hills that skirt, the desert behind
Kerdásseh, and forms the southern side
of a large valley, a branch of the Bahr
el-Fargh. From the decomposed condition
of the stone, it has the appearance
of greater age than the pyramids
of Geezeh. Only 5 or 6 courses of the
stone remain, and it contains nothing
but an underground chamber, to which
a broad inclined passage, 160 ft. long,
descends at an angle of 22° 35' on the
north side. According to the measurements
given by Colonel Vyse, the base
of the pyramid was 320 ft. square, and
the chamber 40 ft. by 15 ft., with
smaller apartments over it, as in the
Great Pyramid of Geezeh. Mr. Petrie
found a trace of an inscription bearing
the syllables Men … ra, and considers
that the pyramid belonged to a
king Menkaoora of the IInd or IIIrd
Dynasty, or to King Menkara of the
VIth Dynasty, but the question cannot
be regarded as settled.
Near the pyramid, to the westward,
is another stone ruin; and a causeway
30 ft. broad leads up to the height on
which they both stand, from the northward;
the length of which is said by
Colonel Howard Vyse to be 4950 ft.
A great quantity of granite is scattered
around the pyramid, mostly broken
into small fragments, with which (if
ever finished) it was probably once
cased. From the hill is a fine View over the valley of the Nile; and being
much higher than that of the Pyramids
of Geezeh, it commands them, and has
the advantage of showing them in
an interesting position, with those of
Abooseer, Sakkárah, and Dashóor in
the distance. This view is also remarkable
from its explaining the expression
“peninsula, on which the Pyramids
stand,” used to denote the isolated
position of the hill. It is the same
that Pliny applies to the isolated rocky
district about Syene.
At the eastern extremity of the hills
of Aboo Roásh are some massive crude
brick walls, and the ruins of an ancient
village, with a few uninteresting tombs
in the rock; and in the sandy plain to
the S. of them is the tomb of the sheykh
who has given his name, Aboo Roásh,
to the ruined pyramid.
p. The Pyramids of Abooseer.
These pyramids, like the one just
described, offer no inducement to the
traveller to go out of his way to see
them; but if he should be including
Geezeh and Sakkárah in one excursion
(see Exc. VIII., a) they will not lie far
out of his course in riding between the
two places. The road, which lies along
the edge of the desert, passing the
almost obliterated remains of several
pyramids at Zowyet el-Aryan, affords a
constant succession of beautiful points
of view across the rich plain to the
Nile, ever changing in hue and outline
at different periods of the day.
The pyramid first reached is an
isolated one about 3/4 of a mile N. of
the central group. It is 123 ft. 4 in.
square. On one of the blocks is
the name of Raenooser of the Vth
Dynasty. In the plain below are the
remains of a stone building, apparently
a temple, connected with the
pyramid by a causeway; and about
halfway between this and the pyramids
of Abooseer are other vestiges of
masonry, now a heap of broken fragments
of white stone.
The Pyramids of Abooseer were
fourteen in number, but only four are
now visible. The largest measured
originally, according to Colonel Vyse,
359 ft. 9 in. square, and 227 ft. 10 in.
high, now reduced to 325 ft. and
164 ft. The northernmost one is
that of Saoora (Vth Dynasty); it is
surrounded by an enclosure 137 paces
square; the pyramid itself being about
213 ft. square, or 216 according to
Colonel Vyse, having been originally
257 ft.; and its height of 162 ft. 9 in.
is now reduced to 118 ft. They are all
in a dilapidated state, and seem to
have been loosely built; but the sepulchral
chambers have been constructed
with great care, and have blocks in
the roof larger than any in the pyramids
of Geezeh; there being some
from 35 ft. to 50 ft. long, and 12 ft.
thick. Fifty paces to the E. of the
northernmost pyramid is a temple, and

a causeway leading from it to the
plain; and some distance to the S. of
this is another causeway leading to
the central pyramid, at the side of
which lie fragments of black stone
that once paved it.
Besides the pyramids are 8 or 9
other stone ruins, one of which, to the
S.W. of the large pyramid, is 78 paces
by 80, with an entrance on the N. It
has perpendicular sides, and some of
the stones measure nearly 17 ft. in
length, but it does not seem to have
ever been completed.
The Village of Abooseer, from which
these pyramids are named, is 1 m.
farther S., and about 7 m. distant
from the Geezeh platform. It has
the mounds of an ancient town, but
though it may have succeeded to
the name, it can hardly occupy the
site of the ancient village of Busiris,
which must have stood much nearer
the Geezeh pyramids; for we read in
Pliny and other ancient writers, that
the inhabitants of Busiris used to
climb the pyramids for the amusement
of visitors, much in the same
way no doubt as the Arabs of the
neighbouring village do now. This
is not the only instance of the Arab
form of the Egyptian word: Abooseer
being the modern name of Busiris
in the Delta, near Sebennytus, and of
Busiris, the supposed Nilopolis, near
the Heracleopolite nome.

EXCURSION VIII. SAKKÁRAH.

a. Preliminary Observations.— b. Bedreshayn,
Mitrahenny.—c. History
of Memphis.—d. Remains of Memphis.
e. Village of Sakkárah.—
Site of Necropolis.—f. Pyramids.—
g. Serapeum, or Apis Mausoleum.
h. Tombs. — i. Pyramids of Dashóor.
a. Preliminary Observations.—This
excursion will occupy the entire day.
It may be made in several different
ways. A usual one is to drive to
the station at Boolak Dakroor in time
for the daily train to Upper Egypt,
at 8.30 A.M. Take the train to the
third station, Bedreshayn, reached in
about an hour. Thence on donkeys
to Sakkárah, an hour to an hour
and a half's ride. Good donkeys may
be procured at Bedreshayn, but the
best plan is to send on donkeys from
Cairo either to the station early in the
morning, to go in the train with you,
or across country overnight, to be ready
to meet you at Bedreshayn in the
morning on the arrival of the train.
The few remains at Memphis should
be taken on the way to Sakkárah.
This will lengthen the ride a little,
and leave about 4 hrs. to be spent at
Sakkárah, from which place a start
should be made about 1/2 past 3 back
to Bedreshayn, to catch the daily train
from Upper Egypt to Cairo due about
6 P.M., though often much later.
The charge for the carriage to Geezeh
will be 5 shillings; but if it is required
to wait, or to come again in
time for the return—and it is very
necessary to secure there being a carriage
ready for this purpose—16 shillings
will be asked, as for the whole
day. Five shillings should be enough
for a donkey, if taken there and back
in the day, plus, of course, the railway
fare for it and the boy. It is best to
get Messrs. Cook and Sons to arrange
the expedition. They will provide the
carriage, donkeys, lunch, and pay the
guides at Sakkárah and do all much
cheaper than a traveller unacquainted
with Arabic can do for himself. Loss
of temper will be avoided, and the mind
will be quite free for studying the antiquities.
Another good way is to
combine the expedition with that to
Toora and Helwán. (See p. 275.)
Leave Cairo in the morning, going by
train to Toora. Examine the quarries
at Toora and Masárah, going on to
Helwán. Dine and sleep at Helwán
hotel, and cross the Nile the following
morning to Sakkárah, returning by the
afternoon train from Bedreshayn. Or
this route may be reversed, Sakkárah
being visited the first day and Masárah
and Toora the second. The donkeys
and donkey-boys should be taken for
the two days.
Another plan for those who are
provided with tents is to combine Sakkárah

and the Pyramids in one trip
of two days. This may be done in
any of the following ways:—Go to
Sakkárah by train and donkey, and
after having seen everything there,
ride by Abooseer to the Pyramids (3
hrs.). The tents will have been sent
there direct from Cairo, and pitched
near the well in readiness: the following
day may be devoted to the Pyramids,
beginning with seeing the sun
rise from the top of the Great Pyramid;
and the donkeys can then be used for
the ride home, or a carriage can have
been ordered previously from Cairo.
If it is thought better to spend more
time at Sakkárah, the tents can be
taken there, and the camp pitched for
the night in the palm-grove on the
edge of the desert outside the village:
then next morning early ride to the
Pyramids. In the same way, if the
order is reversed and the Pyramids
taken first, the tents can either be
pitched there for the night, and the
ride to Sakkárah be taken early the
next morning, or the tents sent on to
be pitched at Sakkárah, and the ride
there taken after finishing the Pyramids.
In either of these last two cases
the return from Sakkárah must be
arranged so as to catch the train to
Cairo, as directed above. Of these four
alternatives the first is perhaps the
one to be preferred, as involving the
least expense and trouble for the carriage
of tents, and avoiding the chance
of having to wait hours for the return
train at Bedreshayn; but dragomen
sometimes object to camping at the
Pyramids, owing to the somewhat intrusive
character of the neighbouring
inhabitants.
Travellers going up the Nile may
prefer to make the excursion from their
boat, stopping for that purpose at
Bedreshayn either on the way up or
down the river. For a large party, the
pleasantest way to make the expedition
from Cairo is to a hire a steamer and
go to and from Bedreshayn by the
Nile.
The later in the spring the excursion
is made the more will there be to see
of the remains of Memphis, as the
water of the inundation, which covers
most of what there is in the winter,
will have subsided.
Candles and matches, and some
magnesium wire, for lighting up the
Apis Mausoleum, should be taken;
and provisions will be required for
luncheon.
b. Bedreshayn. Mitrahenny.—The
road to Geezeh has been already described
in Excs. V. and VI. From
Geezeh to Bedreshayn the railway runs
through an almost continuous forest of
palm-trees. On reaching Bedreshayn,
the traveller mounts his donkey, and,
skirting the village, which is composed
of the usual mud hovels, and
contains nothing of interest, rides
along a winding embankment till the
palm-groves are reached, in and
around which lie the mounds of Mitrahenny,
so called from the village
which is situated a little farther on.
These mounds mark a part of the
site of ancient Memphis. Before proceeding
to point out the objects which
may arrest the attention for a few
moments, it may be well to give some
account of this once famous city, nearly
every trace of which is now so completely
obliterated. During the inundation
another route has to be followed,
which turns to the right immediately
after leaving the railway, and goes
direct to Sakkárah.
c. History of Memphis.—According
to Herodotus's account of the story
told him by the priests, Memphis was
founded by Menes, the first recorded
king of Egypt, who, by turning the Nile
from its old course under the Libyan
hills into a more western channel cut
by him, made a large tract of dry land,
on which he built the city. At the
point where the river was turned off,
he constructed dykes to prevent its
returning into its old channel and
overwhelming Memphis. Of these
dykes no trace remains, though Herodotus
says they were kept up with
great care by the Persians at the time
of his visit: but the actual appearance
of the river strongly corroborates the
account. For at Kafr-el-Aiât, 14 m.

above Mitrahenny, the Nile takes a
considerable curve to the eastward, and
would, if the previous direction of its
course continued, run immediately below
the Libyan mountains to Sakkárah;
and the slight difference between this
distance and the approximate measurement
of Herodotus, who places the
dykes at 100 stadia above Memphis,
offers no objection. Indeed, if we calculate
from the outside of the town,
which the historian doubtless did, we
shall find that the bend of Kafr-el-Aiâ
agrees exactly with his 100 stadia,
or about 111/2 m., Mitrahenny, being
some way within the city of Memphis.
It is not necessary to suppose, however,
that the whole of the river was
diverted from its original channel into
an entirely different one. It probably
divided into two arms, as is often the
case in many parts of its course, which
joined into one stream again some
miles lower down, and Menes merely
blocked up the western channel, and
turned all the water into the eastern.
The arm of the river was replaced by
canal which brought water to the
famous lake “on the N. and W. of
the city” excavated by Menes; and
this canal is now represented by the
one which flows through the plain
between the desert and Mitrahenny,
and continues on to below the pyramids
of Geezeh. It is a continuation
of the Bahr Yoosef, and appears here
to flow through a natural depression.
Memphis is styled in Coptic Mefi,
Momf, and Menf, which last is traditionally
preserved by the modern
Egyptians, though the only existing
town whose name resembles it is Menoof,
in the Delta. The Egyptians
called it Panouf, Memfi, Membe, and
Mennefer, “the place of good,” which
Plutarch translates “the haven of
good men,” though it seems rather
to refer to the abode of the Deity,
the representative of goodness, than
to the virtues of its inhabitants. In
hieroglyphics it was styled “Mennefer,
the land of the pyramid,” and sometimes
Ei-Ptah, “the abode of Ptab,”
as well as “the city of the white
wall.”
Though the remains of Memphis lie
chiefly about Mitrahenny, it is evident
that the city extended considerably
beyond the present mounds, which
appear to have belonged to the enclosures
about the temple and other sacred
edifices, as well as to the “palaces”
that were situated, as Strabo says, on
an elevated spot reaching down to the
lower part of the town; and there is
reason to believe that it extended from
near the river at Bedreshayn to Sakkárah,
which only allows a breadth E.
and W. of 3 miles. Diodorus calculates
its circuit at 150 stades, upwards
of 17 Eng. m., requiring a diameter of
nearly 6 m.; and its greatest diameter
was probably N. and S. But the whole
of this space was not covered by houses
or public buildings; much was given
up to gardens, villas, and “sacred
groves;” and the great Acherusian
lake, “surrounded,” according to Diodorus,
“by meadows and canals,” occupied
a large portion of it. This lake
was probably in the lowlands to the
N.E. of Sakkárah with a canal communicating
with the large reservoir constructed
for the service of the temple
of Ptah, in the open space to the N.
of the colossus, between Mitrahenny
and the long eastern mounds, in the
mud of which several statues have
been discovered. On the river side of
these mounds is the site of what is
called the Nilometer.
It may be doubted if Memphis was
surrounded by a wall. It was not the
custom of the Egyptians to include
the whole of a large city within one
circuit: Thebes even, with its 100
gates, had no wall; but each temple
had its own circuit, generally a thick
crude-brick wall, with strong gateways,
sometimes within an outer one
of greater extent; and the quarters
of the troops, or citadel, were surrounded
by a massive wall of the
same materials, with an inclined way
to the top of the rampart. The
temples of Memphis were, no doubt,
encompassed in the same manner by
a sacred enclosure; and the “white
wall” was the fortified part of the
city in which the Egyptians took
refuge when defeated by the Persians.
This white fortress was very ancient,

and from it Memphis was called the
“city of the white wall.”
Memphis had probably already
suffered somewhat from the Persians
when Herodotus saw it, but the account
he has left of some of the principal
buildings shows that it must
have been the largest and most magnificent
city in Egypt at the time of
his visit.
Among those which he mentions
are the Temple of Ptah or Hephæstus,
said to have been founded by
Menes, and enlarged and beautified by
succeeding monarchs. Mœris (Amenemhat
III.) erected the northern vestibule;
and Sesostris (Rameses II.),
besides the two colossal statues, one
of which is still to be seen, made
considerable additions with enormous
blocks of stone which “he employed
his prisoners of war to drag to the
temple.” Pheron (Meneptah), his son,
also enriched it with suitable presents,
which he sent on the recovery
of his sight, as he did to all the principal
temples of Egypt. The western
vestibule, or propylæum, was the work
of Rhampsinitus (Rameses III.), who
also erected two statues, 25 cubits in
height, one on the N., the other on the
S.; to the former of which the Egyptians
gave the name of summer, and to
the latter winter. The eastern was
the largest and most magnificent of all
these propylæa, and excelled as well
in the beauty of its sculpture as in its
dimensions. It was built by Asychis
(Shishak). Several grand additions
were afterwards made by Psammetichus,
who, besides the southern vestibule,
erected a large hypæthral court
covered with sculpture, where Apis
was kept when exhibited in public.
It was surrounded by a peristyle of
Osiride figures, 12 cubits in height,
which served instead of columns;—
similar no doubt to those in the Memnonium
at Thebes. Many other kings
adorned this magnificent temple of
Ptah with sculpture and various gifts,
among which may be mentioned the
statue of Sethos, in commemoration
of his victory over the Assyrians,
holding in his hand a mouse with
this inscription, “Whoever sees me,
let him be pious.” Amasis, too, dedicated
a recumbent colossus, 7 ft. long,
in this temple, which is the more
singular as there is no instance of an
Egyptian statue, of early time, in that
position: and the same king built a
magnificent temple to the goddess
Isis.
The temenos, or sacred grove, of
Proteus was very beautiful and richly
ornamented. Some Phœnicians of
Tyre, settlers at Memphis, lived round
it, and in consequence the whole
neighbourhood received the name of
the Tyrian camp. Within the temenos was the temple, called “of Venus the
stranger;” whence the historian conjectured
that it was of Helen, who was
reported to have lived some time at
the court of the Egyptian king. This
is of course an idle Greek story, which,
like so many others, shows how ready
the Greeks were to derive everything
from their own country.
Four hundred years after Herodotus
Diodorus expatiates on the size
and magnificence of Memphis, which,
however, had already become second
in importance to Alexandria. And
Strabo, a few years before the Christian
era, says: “The city is large and
populous, next to Alexandria in size,
and, like that, filled with foreign residents.
Before it are some lakes;
but the palaces, situated once in an
elevated spot, and reaching down to
the lower part of the city, are now
ruined and deserted.” The temples,
however, seem still to have been kept
up in the former style of magnificence.
They suffered no doubt in the reign of
Theodosius from the zeal which he displayed
against idolatry and its shrines.
But Memphis still continued to enjoy
some consequence, even at the time of
the Arab invasion; and though its
ancient palace was a ruin, the governor
of Egypt, John Mekaukes, still
resided in the city; and it was here
that he concluded a treaty with the
invaders after they had succeeded in
taking the strong Roman fortress at
Babylon. The wealth, as well as the
inhabitants of Memphis, soon passed
to the new Arab city of Fostát, and
the capital of Lower Egypt in a few

years ceased to exist. The blocks of
stone of its ruined monuments were
afterwards taken to help in building
the new City of Cairo; and yet notwithstanding
this wholesale spoliation
we find Abd el-Lateef at the end of the
12th cent. asserting that “the ruins
of Memphis occupy a space half a day's
journey every way;” and that “they
still offer to the eyes of the spectator
a collection of marvels which strike
the mind with wonder, and which the
most eloquent man might in vain
attempt to describe.” Aboolfeda, 150
years later, speaks of the ruins as
still occupying a large extent, but
gradually disappearing. But from
that time hardly any mention is made
of them; and the waters of the inundation,
long ago unrestrained by the
protecting dykes, covered the plain
with a gradually increasing layer of
mud deposit, beneath which every
trace of such ruins as were left completely
disappeared. It was not till
the beginning of the present century
that researches were made which resulted
in discovering some traces of
the ancient city.
d. Remains of Memphis. — Some
statues, a few fragments of granite
and some substructions are all that
can be seen of the ruins of a city,
which, if there is any truth in the
description given of it, “in its glory
must have exceeded any modern city,
as much as the Pyramids exceed any
mausoleum which has been erected
since those days.”—Curzon. It is possible
that much may be concealed
beneath the mounds, but the latest
researches have been singularly unproductive.
There are a few objects,
chiefly statuettes of the god Ptah, at
the museum at Cairo, and one interesting
discovery was that of a private
house.
The only object that will attract the
traveller's attention is the Colossal
Statue of Rameses II.
, which lies near
the path leading from Bedreshayn to
Mitrahenny. It has recently been raised
out of the hollow in which it lay for
many years by Major Bagnold, R.E. A
wall has been built round it to protect
it from injury and a small charge is
made for admission. It was discovered
by Signor Caviglia and Mr. Sloane,
by whom it was given to the British
Museum, on condition of its being
taken to England; but no attempt has
ever been made to do so. This is probably
one of the statues mentioned by
Herodotus and Diodorus as erected by
“Sesostris” in front of the Temple of
Ptah. These statues were 30 cubits
(45 to 51 1/2 feet) high: this one is unfortunately
broken at the feet, and
part of the cap is wanting; but its
total height may be estimated at 48 ft.
8 in. without the pedestal. The stone
is a white siliceous limestone, very
hard, and capable of taking a high
polish. From the neck of the king
is suspended an amulet or breast-plate,
like that of the Urim and Thummin of
the Hebrews, in which is the royal
prenomen, supported by Ptah on one
side, and Pasht on the other. In the
centre, and at the side of his girdle,
are the name and prenomen of this
Rameses, and in his hand he holds a
scroll, bearing at one end his name,
Amen-mai-Ramsees. A figure of his
daughter is represented at his side. It
is on a small scale, her shoulder reaching
little above the level of his knee.
The upper part of the statue is somewhat
worn away, but the under part
still retains its polish. The expression
of the face, which is perfectly preserved,
is very beautiful: the features
are sharp cut and most delicately
finished.
There are some other remains of
statues, and another colossus, lying not
far from this one; and at the guard's
house close by may be seen a few things
which have been dug up at various
times; among them are some statues
in the sitting attitudes of the modern
Egyptians, with crossed legs, or knees
up to the chin. The space to the S. of
the colossus is the site of the temple
of Ptah, of which the foundations have
been discovered by Mariette Pasha.
In the open space to the N. are some
remains only visible at low Nile. This
open space, which is still a depression
filled with more or less water according
to the time of year, was formerly

probably a reservoir in front of the
temple, supplied with water by a canal
from the lake before mentioned,
situated near Sakkárah. On the borders
of this pond M. Mariette discovered a
small temple of Rameses II.
e. Sakkárah. Site of Necropolis.
Crossing the western line of mounds,
with the village of Mitrahenny on the
right, we enter the fertile plain that
reaches to the edge of the desert. The
path generally followed in the winter
and spring turns to the right, till it
reaches a high embankment at a point
where the latter crosses a canal by
means of an old Arab bridge. This
embankment leads up to the S. corner
of the rocky promontory on which are
the pyramids and tombs. Immediately
on the left, before reaching the desert,
is the probable site of the lake dug
by Menes for regulating the supply of
water to Memphis and the surrounding
country. Except at low Nile there is
always plenty of water in it, and it
sometimes abounds in ducks. In
summer a road may be followed
straight across the plain from Mitrahenny
to the village of Sakkárah,
passing through it and along the edge
of the pond on to the platform. Outside
the village to the N., before reaching
the pond, is the grove in which
those who encamp at Sakkárah have
been advised to pitch their tents.
The Necropolis, to which the neighbouring
village of Sakkárah gives its
name, is the oldest, as well as the most
modern, of the cemeteries of Memphis.
It is also the largest, being nearly
4 1/2 m. long, and having a breadth
varying from 1/4 m. to nearly 1 m.
Like the Necropolis of Geezeh, that of
Sakkárah belongs more especially to
the Old Empire. In the centre, forming
as it were the nucleus of this vast
ensemble, rises a pyramid curiously
built in degrees. If tradition may be
trusted, and if the place of which this
pyramid is the centre is called Ko-Komeh,
and if King Ouenephes built
his pyramid, as Manetho says he did,
in a place called Ko-Komeh, then this
pyramid of Sakkárah may belong to
the Ist Dynasty, and be the most
ancient monument not only in Egypt,
but in the world.
To the N. of this pyramid are the
tombs of the Old Empire, which have
yielded up so many of the interesting
objects in the museum at Cairo,
and are themselves magnificent witnesses
to the civilization of that remote
period; those of Tih, Ptah-hotep,
Saboo, and some others are the most
remarkable. To the S. of the pyramid
are tombs of the XVIIIth and two
following dynasties. Among them
was found the list of kings called
The Table of Sakkárah. To the E.,
in going from the pyramid to the cultivated
land, there occurs first a belt of
tombs of the Old Empire, then one of
the XXVIth and following dynasties,
and then a third, which may be called
the Greek cemetery. Among these last
tombs were found nearly all the Greek
papyri that have enriched the different
European museums.
On the western side of the old tombs
to the N. of the pyramid are the remains
of the Serapeum, and, at the
beginning of the XXVIth Dynasty, a
way was cut through the tombs for
an avenue of sphinxes leading to the
Serapeum, and to the underground
vaults known as the Apis Mausoleum.
From the ruins of the Serapeum came
most of the statuettes of the different
divinities in the Cairo museum.
The truncated pyramid of Oonas,
called by the Arabs Mastabat el-Pharaoon
(Pharaoh's throne), is at
the S. of the large pyramid; and the
ibis mummy pits to the N. The
ibises have been preserved in long
earthen pots, but owing to the damp,
which at a certain depth filters in
through the soil, they are mostly reduced
to powder.
f. Pyramids. — There are eleven
pyramids on the Sakkárah plateau.
The southernmost of these is the truncated
one already mentioned called
Mastabat el-Pharaoon. It is in a very
ruined condition. In the inside is a
chamber with niches, as in the Third
Pyramid of Geezeh. The cartouche of
Oonas, the last king of the Vth Dynasty,
was found in the doorway. It is called



in the inscriptions Nefer-Setu, “the
most beautiful place.”
A little farther on, as the visitor
approaches from Mitrahenny, is the
largest of the Sakkárah pyramids,
curiously built in stages or degrees,
and hence called the Step-Pyramid. The date of this monument has not
yet been accurately determined, but,
as has been said, it may be the oldest
pyramid in Egypt. The argument on
which this supposition is founded is
as follows:—Manetho says that Ouenephes,
the 4th king of the Ist Dynasty
according to his list, built a pyramid or
pyramids at a place called Ko-Komeh;
on a tablet in the Serapeum the name
of Ko-Komeh was found as given to
the surrounding necropolis; on an
entrance door of the pyramid, now at
Berlin, was deciphered not the name,
but the title and banner of a very
old king. From this the deduction
has been drawn that, as Ouenephes
built a pyramid at Ko-Komeh, and
as this necropolis was called Ko-Komeh,
this title and banner were
his, and the pyramid was built by him.
The degrees are five in number,
diminishing in height and breadth
towards the top. The present height
from the base is about 197 ft. Contrary
to the usual rule in pyramidal
buildings, the base is not a perfect
square, the measurements according
to Col. H. Vyse being 351 ft. 2 in.
on the N. and S. faces, and 393 ft.
11 in. on the E. and W., and the
pyramid also differs from others in
not facing the cardinal points. It is
surrounded by what may be called a
sacred enclosure, about 1750 ft. by
950 ft. Inside the construction is
peculiar. Immediately under the centre
is an excavation in the rock, 77 ft. in
depth and 24 ft. square: the top of
this is dome-shaped, and was originally
lined with wooden rafters; the
bottom is paved with blocks of granite,
and beneath is a rude chamber, the
opening to which was concealed by a
granite block four tons in weight. No
trace of anything was found here
when the pyramid was opened by
Minutoli in 1821. Out of the excavation
leads a very labyrinth of passages
conducting to different apartments.
On the doorway of the one opposite to
the entrance are some hieroglyphics,
and the title and banner referred to
above. The sides of these chambers
had been lined with bluish green slabs
similar to those now known as Dutch
tiles: and it is scarcely necessary to
remark that vitrified porcelain was a
very old invention in Egypt, and continued
in vogue there till a late period,
even after the Arab conquest and the
foundation of Cairo. Pieces of broken
marble and alabaster were found in
some of the passages; and in a gallery
connected with another entrance, which
appeared not to have been ransacked,
were found 30 mummies of an inferior
description coarsely enveloped in
wrappers.
It has been conjectured that this
was the original Apis Mausoleum, an
opinion which seems to be inconsistent
with the theory which ascribes it to
Ouenephes, as the worship of the
sacred bull at Memphis was not established
till after his time.
g. The Serapeum , or Apis Mausoleum. —The vast subterranean tomb
which next claims the visitor's attention
is called indiscriminately the
Serapeum, or the Apis Mausoleum, but
it should be noted that the latter of
these titles is the correct one. The
Serapeum, properly so called, was the
exterior temple surmounting the excavated
tomb. It no longer exists;
but to judge by such few remains of it
as have been found, it resembled in
appearance the ordinary Egyptian
temple. An avenue of sphinxes led
up to it, and two pylons stood before
it; round it was the usual enclosure.
But it was distinguished from all other
temples by having in one of its chambers
an opening, from which descended
an inclined passage into the rock
below, giving access to the vaults in
which reposed the mummied representatives
of the god Apis. Living,
the sacred bull was worshipped in a
magnificent temple at Memphis, and
lodged in a palace adjoining — the
Apieum: dead, he was buried in excavated
vaults at Sakkárah, and worshipped

in a temple built over them—
the Serapeum.
The discovery of the site of the
Serapeum and the Apis Mausoleum
was made by M. Mariette in 1860-61.
Having observed the head of a sphinx
appearing through the sand, and finding
on clearing the spot that the
statue was entire, the passage of
Strabo occurred to him in which that
writer says: “There is also a Serapeum
in a very sandy spot, where
drifts of sand are raised by the wind
to such a degree that we saw some
sphinxes buried up to their heads,
and others half-covered.” From this
passage, taken in connection with the
finding of the sphinx, M. Mariette did
not hesitate to conclude that he was
on the track of the Serapeum, and he
immediately set to work to verify his
idea with an energy proportionate to
the difficulty of the task. For the
cutting a passage through the deep
sand was an arduous as well as a
dangerous undertaking, the shifting
wall constantly threatening to fall in,
and not only fill up the hardly-won
trench, but bury the workers. In two
months he had cleared out an avenue
600 feet long, and laid bare 141
sphinxes, besides the pedestals of
many others. At first the depth of
sand had only been 10 or 12 ft., but
before the end was reached a depth
of 70 ft. had to be cut through. At
the end of this avenue was found a
semicircle of statues representing the
most famous philosophers and writers
of Greece, some with the name inscribed
at the bottom of the statue.
Between the last two sphinxes and
this semicircle ran a cross avenue,
leading on the left to a temple built
by Amyrtæus, and on the right to the
Serapeum. This right-hand part of
the cross avenue was bordered on each
side by a low broad wall. On the
right-hand wall were curious statues
representing children astride various
real and symbolical emblems. On
the left-hand wall was a small temple
in the Greek style, and two Egyptian
temples, in one of which was a stone
statue of the bull Apis. At the end of
the avenue was one of the pro-pylons
of the Serapeum, with two crouching
lions on pedestals immediately in front
of it. These lions are now at the
Louvre. On the right hand of the
entrance, towards the N., was the
entrance of an older vault, now fallen
in. Here a human mummy was found,
which proved to be that of Kha-emuas,
the favourite son of Rameses II.
He appears to have died before his
father, as governor of Memphis. The
golden ornaments found in his coffin
are now in the Louvre.
Notwithstanding the various difficulties
to be encountered from the
shifting sand and other causes, M
Mariette laid bare the whole circuit
of the Serapeum, and at length in
November 1861, crowned his success
by discovering the entrance to the
huge vaults in which were buried the
dead representatives of Apis.
The approaches to the Serapeum,
and such remains as there were of
the Serapeum itself, have long since
been re-covered by the sand. The
hollow in front of the house where
Mariette Pasha lived during the progress
of the excavation marks the line
of the walled avenue, and sometimes
the top of one or two of the curious
figures alluded to above may be seen
appearing through the sand.
The Apis Mausoleum is divided into
three distinct parts. The first and
most ancient served as the burial
place of the sacred bulls from Amunoph
III. of the XVIIIth Dynasty to
the end of the XXth Dynasty. In this
part each tomb is a separate sepulchral
chamber, hewn here and there out of
the rocky platform of the temple. They
were of no particular interest, and are
again hidden by the sand. The second
part comprised the tombs of Apis from
the time of Sheshonk I. of the XXIInd
Dynasty to that of Tirhakah, last king
of the XXVth Dynasty. In this part
a new system has been adopted, and
a long subterranean gallery excavated
beneath the temple, on each side of
which are mortuary chambers for the
dead bulls. This also is inaccessible,
the roof having in many places fallen in,
and the whole being in an insecure state.
The third part is that which the

visitor now sees. (See Plan on Map
of Sakkárah.) It was the place of
interment from the reign of Psammetichus
I. of the XXVIth Dynasty (cir.
650 B.C.) till the time of the later
Ptolemies (cir. 50 B.C.) The same system
is here followed as in the second
part, only on a much larger and more
magnificent scale, the galleries having
an extent of nearly 400 yards, and
granite sarcophagi having been employed
for the interment. Partly to
prevent the ingress of sand, and partly
to protect the galleries from the
marauding and destructive propensities
of too many of the visitors, the
entrance is now closed by a door, the
key of which is kept by the Arab who
has the charge of the tombs, &c., at
Sakkárah, and who lives at the house
close by. Each person should carry
a candle and look well before him, in
order to avoid falling into the openings
in which are the sarcophagi. Immediately
on entering you turn to the
right, then to the left, and then again
to the left, till you reach a gallery
more than 210 yards long. On both
sides, but never opposite to one another,
are deep recesses, each containing a
huge sarcophagus of granite, measuring
on an average 13 ft. in length by
7 ft. 6 in. in breadth, and 11 ft. in
height. In one of the recesses (a) are
steps for the purpose of descending
and examining the sarcophagus, which
is sculptured: the curious can also
climb by a ladder into the interior,
and satisfy themselves that it would
hold four or five persons sitting. In
nearly every instance the lid of the
sarcophagus has been partly pushed
away, so as to give access to the mummied
contents of which no vestiges
have been found. The number of
sarcophagi in situ throughout the
whole extent of the galleries is 24.
Of these only three bear any inscription,
and they contain the names of
Amasis, Cambyses, and Khebasch, and
belong therefore to the several periods
just preceding, contemporaneous with,
and subsequent to, the Persian conquest.
A fourth with some ovals without
any name is supposed to be of the
date of the later Ptolemies.
The historical importance of the
discovery of the Apis Mausoleum was
very great, though it does not consist
in anything which can now be seen.
When first opened the walls of the
vaults were covered with stelæ, or
inscribed tablets, placed there by individuals
who on certain annual festivals,
or on the occasion of the death
and burial of an Apis, came to perform
an act of worship at his temple and
tomb. In memory of this pious act, it
was the custom to fit into one of the
walls of the tomb a square-shaped
stone, rounded at the top, in which
were recorded the names of the visitor
and his family, and very often in addition
the precise date of the current
year of the reigning king. A comparison
of these stelæ was necessarily
of great importance in fixing the
chronology of the period to which they
belong. About 500 of these ex votos were found in their original position,
principally near the entrance to the
tombs on the right. All those of any
importance which were legible have
been removed and are in the Louvre or
the Boolak Museum, but some may
still be seen in the wall.
h. Tombs.—The vast extent of the
Sakkárah Necropolis has been already
noted, and the position of the tombs
belonging to different epochs pointed
out. On every side heaps of sand and
débris beside the mouths of deep pits
evidence the extent of the researches
that have been made, and the results
are seen in some of the most interesting
objects exhibited in the Boolak
Museum. The tombs themselves are
soon covered in again by their preserver,
the sand. The most interesting
are those belonging to the Old Empire
on the N. side of the large pyramid;
and the one usually visited after leaving
the Apis Mausoleum lies a short
distance to the N.E. of the entrance
to those vaults. It is called the Tomb
of Tih. The general arrangement of
these tombs has been already described
(see p. 87), but it may be shortly
repeated here, that they consisted of
three parts: 1. An exterior building,
containing one or more chambers: 2,

A vertical pit; and 3. the vault, generally
excavated at right angles to the
pit, in which was placed the sarcophagus
containing the body. The
outer covering was usually in the form
of what has been called a mastabah,
better illustrations of which may be
seen at the Pyramids than here (see
p. 259); but nowhere better than at
Sakkárah do specimens exist of the
interior arrangement.
The Tomb of Tih, or Thy, is an
excellent specimen of an Old Empire
tomb. The mastabah is now surrounded
with sand, but the chambers
within are in a wonderfully good state
of preservation; and the sculptures on
the walls far surpass, if not in variety,
at any rate in drawing and preservation,
those at Beni Hassan. That
they have preserved their colour and
delicacy of outline is owing, no doubt,
to their having been so long buried in
the sand, and one is almost tempted to
wish that that apparent enemy, but
real friend to antiquities in Egypt, was
allowed to have his way again, when
one sees the cruel havoc wrought by so
many of those for whose benefit this
splendid old monument is kept cleared
and open. What with the would-be
archæologists, who with their wet
squeeze-paper have destroyed in so
many places the brilliant colours that
centuries had spared — the real but
ruthless savants, who with over-eager
thought for their own honour and
glory, and for the enriching of their
native museums, have not hesitated to
cut out and carry off whole pieces of
that exquisite sculpture—and the horde
of vulgar sightseers, whose only object
in going to see anything seems to be
that they may write their names in
the most disfiguring manner possible,
this tomb, beautiful as it still is,
presents a very different aspect to
what it did when first cleared of its
sandy shroud. The carving or writing
of names on natural rock, or unsculptured
pieces of stone is a harmless
amusement enough, but to hack with
a knife, or blacken with pencil, charred
wood, or paint (and all these, and
other methods have been resorted to)
sculptured and painted walls and
columns are acts of gratuitous and
detestable vandalism that no language
is too strong to condemn.
In descending the sandy incline into
the chambers, it must be remembered
that formerly the surrounding plain
was on a level with their floor, and not
as now with the top of their walls.
On the two large pillars which formed
part of the entrance façade are the
names and titles of the owner of the
tomb, a priest, named Tih or Thy, who
lived at Memphis under the Vth
Dynasty, that is between 4000 and
5000 years ago. He was a man of
humble origin, but attained to high
office under Raenooser and Kaka, kings
whose names will be found on the
walls. He married Neferhotep, a member
of the royal family; and his sons,
Thy and Thamuz, are termed relatives
of the king. Beyond these pillars is a
court surrounded by a peristyle. On the
wall to the left are depicted various
scenes. Statues of Tih, destined to
adorn his tomb, are being embarked
in boats for transport to the edge of
the desert; oxen are being brought for
sacrifice at the anniversary of the
funeral rites; one has just been seized,
and men are tying its legs, and preparing
to throw it on its side. On the
wall to the right is seen Tih himself,
accompanied by his wife and their
sons. He is watching his servants at
work in one of his farm yards. Some
are bringing on their shoulders sacks
full of grain for the poultry; others
are fattening the birds by making
pellets of flour and putting them down
their throats. Beyond is a picturesque
view of the farm buildings; the roofs
are supported by small elegantly carved
wooden columns; in the middle is a
pond in which ducks are swimming.
In the distance are the wide fields,
where the four-footed animals are pastured.
Among the birds that Tih kept
are geese, ducks of various kinds,
Numidian cranes, pigeons, &c., while
the animals included cattle of every
size and race, antelopes, gazelles, wild
goats, and others, in great numbers.
Next come the boats which transport
for him along the Nile the produce of

his land. They are full of jars and
bales of goods. In the middle of the
court is the pit leading to the sepulchral
chamber. Curiously enough this
pit offers an exception to the general
rule, being inclined instead of vertical.
The sarcophagus at the bottom is of
limestone, without inscription.
Leading from this court is a narrow
passage, on the walls of which are
represented servants of the house
bringing offerings of all kinds for the
anniversary ceremonies; some carry
fruit, vegetables, vases full of sweet
oil, and perfumes: others lead oxen to
the sacrifice, as depicted in the outer
court. Farther on, in the same passage,
some men are seen drawing statues
enclosed in little temples of wood;
half-a-dozen drag with cords, while one
pours water on the earth to render the
passage easier. Next to these again
are boats with large sails and a numerous
crew. On the right of the passage
is a small chamber, where again is
depicted the bringing of offerings of all
sorts and kinds. On the end wall are
some rather indistinct scenes: workmen
appear to be making pots, and
smelting large ingots composed of some
red substance.
At the end of the passage is the
principal chamber, covered with bas-reliefs
no less remarkable for their
profusion than for the finish with
which the different designs are executed.
To describe all would be
impossible; it will be sufficient to
indicate some of the most worthy of
notice. On the wall to the right on
entering, Tih is depicted shooting in
the marshes. He is standing upright
in a light boat, holding decoy-birds in
one hand, and with the other he is
hurling a curved stick, which knocks
down and stuns the flying birds.
Innumerable wild fowl of every kind
fill the air. In the water beneath the
boat hippopotami and crocodiles are
floating. Two of them are fighting,
and the hippopotamus is evidently the
victor. Some of the servants are trying
to catch them, and a hippopotamus is
just being hooked with a sort of harpoon.
This scene may recall the verse
in Job xli. 1-2: “Canst thou draw out
leviathian with an hook? or his tongue
with a cord which thou lettest down?
Canst thou put an hook into his nose?
or bore his jaw through with a thorn?”
The idea of crocodiles and hippopotami
in the neighbourhood of Memphis
appears extraordinary at the present
day, but in the time of Tih, no doubt
they were common enough in that
part of the river. Abd-el-Lateef, who
visited Egypt about 1216 A.D., recounts
that hippopotami abounded in the
Damietta branch of the Nile, and that
two of them had committed such
depredations that an armed force was
sent to destroy them. Even so late as
Mohammed Ali's time a hippopotamus
was taken alive at Mansoorah, in the
Delta, and killed on the banks. Crocodiles
are still seen as far north as
200 miles above Cairo. Another scene
shows us Tih watching his servants
fishing. Crouching in the bottom of
their boats, some are holding lines,
while others are dragging across the
bottom of the stream an enormous
square net, within whose meshes the
fish are being drawn. The usual
agricultural scenes are full of life and
spirit. Cows are crossing a ford;
cattle browse in the meadows; herdsmen
are conducting home a flock of
goats. All the phases of seed time
and harvest are depicted. Oxen are
ploughing; the seed is sown; the
corn is reaped; men with three-pronged
forks gather it into heaps;
and oxen going round and round tread
it out. In another place it is tied into
sheaves, and donkeys are brought up
with much fuss and use of the stick,
on whose backs the sheaves are put
and carried away to the farmyard and
granaries. Some of these scenes are
drawn with inimitable humour. In
another part carpenters are busy making
furniture for the house, and ship-wrights
labour at the boats belonging
to the estate. In a concealed chamber
at the end of the passage was found
the statue of Tih, now in the Boolak
Museum. The style of art is inferior to
that of the scenes depicted on the walls.
It is to be noticed that Tih is present
at all these varied scenes; seated
or standing, he is there in the attitude

of command, while singers, dancers,
acrobats and others perform for his
amusement. In fact every thing in
these pictures shows the realisation of
the first petition in the prayer over
the entrance. Tih evidently leads a
prosperous and happy life in the midst
of these agricultural pursuits, to which
the Egyptians at that epoch were devoted.
He is surrounded by his own
people, and attains, as the inscription
records, “a fortunate and prolonged
old age.” “The Egyptians,” says Diodorus,
“call their houses hostelries,
on account of the short period during
which they inhabit them, but they call
their tombs eternal dwelling places.”
Tih built this tomb during his life-time,
and fitted it to be his eternal
dwelling-place, both by the solidity of
its construction, and by depicting on
its walls the scenes in which his life
was passed. All those symbolical
representations of the life of the soul
beyond the tomb, which formed the
basis of the Egyptian faith, are absent
in the upper chambers of the Old
Empire sepulchres. Spiritual religion
is confined to the vault in which the
mummied body reposes, and even then
is represented almost entirely by a
few short quotations from the Book of
the Dead. It is at a later period,
under the New Empire, that, as seen
in the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes,
the walls of the tombs become covered
with whole chapters of that book, and
with a whole army of grotesque and
fantastic divinities.
The Tomb of Ptah-hotep, which lies
to the S. of the Apis Mausoleum, is
also interesting, and should be visited.
It consists of one chamber only, the
walls of which are covered with similar
scenes to those already described,
but offering some very interesting
and curious peculiarities. The sculptures
referring to the presenting of
gifts are especially noticeable. Ptahhotep
is seated, and before him passes
a regular procession of servants bringing
offerings. At their head march
priests chanting sacred hymns, while
other servants heap up on a table the
destined votive oblations.
As has been said, the whole surrounding
desert is one vast sepulchre;
and when excavations are going on, and
as is often the case, one of the large
mausolea that served as the common
burial place for the lower classes is
being turned out, the mass of mummied
remains, skulls, bones, hands,
feet, swathing cloths, &c., lying about
in weird confusion, is as remarkable
as it is unpleasant. Many of these
burial places were large enough to
hold hundreds of bodies; they were
laid side by side on a series of shelves,
without any covering except the
thick bands in which they were
wrapped; and it is a striking sight
to see them lying there, so wonderfully
preserved through many hundreds of
years.
On the way back to Bedreshayn the
visitor may turn aside to look at a
tomb of the time of Psammetichus I.
(cir. 650 B.C.), in the face of the rocky
platform near the cultivated land.
It is built of hewn stone and vaulted,
and affords one of the earliest instances
of stone arches. That style of building
was known to the Egyptians long
before that period, crude brick arches
having been found at Thebes dating
from the time of the VIIIth Dynasty.
From the middle of March to the
middle of April the cultivated land
along the edge of the desert in the
neighbourhood of Sakkárah swarms
with quail.
i. Pyramids of Dashoor. — These
pyramids cannot be brought into the
day's excursion to Sakkárah; though
they might perhaps fall into the two-days'
excursion to the Pyramids and
Sakkárah, sketched out above (p. 263).
They present nothing of interest, however,
to repay the generality of travellers.
They are situated about 3 miles
from Sakkárah, and mark, perhaps,
the southern limit of the Necropolis of
Memphis. Two are of stone, and two
of brick. The northernmost of the two
stone ones measures, according to Col.
H. Vyse, 700 ft square, having been
originally nearly 720 ft, only forty
less than the Great Pyramid; but its

height was only 342 ft. 7 in., of which
326 ft, remain. It has three subterranean
chambers, one beyond another.
The southernmost stone pyramid presents
the peculiarity of being built at
two different angles, the lower part
at 54° 14′ 46″, the upper at 42° 59′
26”: it consequently presents the
appearance of a pointed pyramid
resting on a truncated one. There is
à subterranean chamber 80 ft. in
height, constructed in the same manner
as in the other pyramid. In the
passage are some hieroglyphics of
doubtful meaning. The greater part
of the original casing of this pyramid
is still in situ. Mr. Petrie discovered
here the remains of the ancient arrangement
for closing the pyramid, which
appears to have been a door of stone
working on a horizontal hinge.
The two brick pyramids are very
much degraded. The northernmost,
which was, according to Col. H. Vyse,
350 ft. square, and 215 ft. 6 in. high,
is now reduced to less than 90 ft. in
height; and the southernmost, from
being 342 ft. 6 in. square and 267 ft.
4 in. high, is now only 156 ft. high.
The bricks, which are crude, are
about sixteen inches long, eight wide,
and four and a half to five and a half
thick, some with and some without
straw. Although the outer part of
the pyramid has crumbled away, the
way in which the bricks have kept
their place in what remains shows
how well it was originally constructed.
Herodotus tells us that, according to
the priests, a King named Asychis,
the same who built the most beautiful
of the four gateways of Ptah at
Memphis, succeeded Mycerinus, and
that, desirous of eclipsing all his predecessors,
he left a pyramid of brick
as a monument of his reign, with the
following boastful inscription engraved
on the stone: “Despise me not in
comparison with the stone pyramids;
for I surpass them all, as much as
Zeus surpasses the other gods. A pole
was plunged into a lake, and the mud
which clave thereto was gathered;
and bricks were made of the mud, and
so I was formed.” Which of the brick
pyramids still standing bore this inscription
is uncertain, but it is probably
one of these two, or of the two in the
Fayoom, at Illahoon and Howárah.
There are no inscriptions by which
the age of either of these brick pyramids
can be fixed. The exterior of
these brick pyramids has been cased
with blocks of stone, some of which
still remain. In front of the northernmost
one are the remains of a temple;
on some of the fragments are hieroglyphics.
Large groves of sont, or acanthus,
extend along the edges of the cultivated
land in the neighbourhood of
Sakkárah and Dashor, and have succeeded
to those mentioned by Strabo;
though the town of Aeanthus, if Diodorus
is right in his distance of 120
stadia from Memphis, stood much
farther to the S.

EXOURSION IX.—HELWÁN, TOORA,
AND
MASÁRAH.

a. Preliminary Observations.—b. Description
of Route.—c. Baths of
Helwán.—d. Quarries of Toora and
Masáran.
a. Preliminary Observations.—This
forms a very interesting excursion,
about 15 m., along the E. bank of the
Nile above Cairo. A railway now runs
to the Baths of Helwán, passing the
Quarries on the way. The station at
Cairo is in the Rumeyleh below the
citadel: there are six trains daily
each way; and the time occupied by
the journey is one hour.
b. Description of Route.—The line
on leaving Cairo runs through a deep
cutting between the Citadel and the
Mokattam Hills. It then skirts the
base of these hills, passing on the right
the tombs of the Memlooks, and of the
Imám Shaféeh, and farther on, on
the left, the burial-ground of the Jews,
and reaches
Bussateen Stat., a village once famed
for its “gardens,” whence its name.
Near this point the Mokattam range is
rent asunder by a broad valley called
the Wády et-Tih (Valley of the Wandering),
which comes down from the

E., and measures to its head about 8 m.
It separates that part called Gebel el-Jooshee
from the rest of the Mokattam
range. One of the Suez roads, called
Derb et-Tarabéen, passes over this
part of the Mokattam, and comes
down to the Nile by this valley to the
village of Bussateen; and immediately
above the brow of the cliff on
its N. side is the plain of petrified
wood already mentioned, as well as an
ancient road that led from Heliopolis
over the hills to this part of the
country. (See Excur. III.) The line
now approaches the Nile, passing on
the right the monastery of Dayr el-Geber,
and farther on an extensive
series of buildings which were erected
as gun factories, gunpowder mills and
small-arm factories. These were constructed
at great expense during the
reign of the Khedive Ismail, but have
never been used. Farther on is the
Toora railway station, and a little
beyond is the prison for convicts which
has been recently established under
the Superintendence of Dr. Cruik-shank,
the Director General of Prisons.
The convicts are employed in quarrying
stone and other useful work. On
the right is the small village of Toora,
and away on the left the quarries and
an old fort on the top of the hill.
Toora in Arabic means “a canal;”
but the name may be derived from
the hieroglyphic word Ta-Roau, “the
vast opening,” referring to the quarries.
The Greeks wrote it Troia, and then
invented a reference to a “Troïcus
pagus” which they placed here. Continuing
near the river, the line reaches
El - Masárah Stat. The quarries,
which are plainly visible in the rocks,
may be visited from here, 1/2 hr. on a
donkey. Masárah claims with Toora
the honour of marking the real site of
the Greek Troja. The line now leaves
the river and ascends the slopes of
Gebel Toora to
Helwán Stat. An omnibus from
the hotel, which is only 10 min. distant,
meets the train. The village of
Helwán is on the Nile, 2 miles distant
c. Baths of Helwán. The Hotel, a
large square building with trees in the
courtyard, affords very comfortable
accommodation, similar to the hotels
in Cairo (board and lodging 15 francs
a day; sitting-rooms 10-15 fr. extra),
and forms a pleasant place for change
of aír for persons spending the winter
at Cairo. There is a very good general
view of the Pyramids from the roof of
the hotel.
The Sulphur Springs resemble in
their ingredients those of Aix in Savoy,
and are said to be very efficacious in
all cases in which sulphurous waters are
usually employed. The water is clear,
with a slightly salt and sulphurous taste,
and issues from the spring at a temperature
of 110° Fahr. The principal
springs are enclosed. The bathing
establishment contains separate rooms
for bathing and inhaling, and there is
a large bath about 30 by 40 yds. and
6 ft. deep. These sulphur springs are
probably the very place to which king
Amenophis sent “the leprous and
other cureless persons, in order to
separate them from the rest of the
Egyptians,” as related by Manetho.
It was said to be at the quarries on
the E. side of the Nile; and the king
may have had the double motive of
curing them, and of profiting by the
labour of those who were able to work;
or Josephus may have misinterpreted
the statement of Manetho, and suggested
their labours in the quarries,
from being unacquainted with the
springs that were to effect their cure.
Some very remarkable specimens of
Flint Implements have been found in
the desert near Helwán, and large
quantities of chips are collected by
little boys and sold to travellers. It is
possible that these remains are of the
“stone age,” but it must be remembered
that the ancient Egyptians used
flint implements for many ceremonial
purposes, and that stone arrow-heads
have been found in tombs even of the
XIXth Dynasty. Travellers who desire
to obtain good specimens should
apply to the proprietor of the hotel.
d. Quarries of Toora and Masárah. —These can be reached from Helwán
in 1 1/2 hr. on donkeys, or from Masárah
in 1/2 hr.
A very good way of seeing them is
to take the train from Cairo to Masárah,
bringing donkeys in the train, and,
after seeing the quarries, to ride on to
Helwán in time for dinner at the hotel,
returning to Cairo by the evening train,
or the expedition may be combined
with that to Sakkárah, as proposed in
Excursion VIII. (See p. 263).
The mountain in which both quarries
are situated is evidently the Troici
lapidis mons
, or T of
Ptolemy and Strabo, and from it was
taken the stone used in the casing of
the pyramids. It is to the same mountain
that Herodotus and Diodorus
allude when they say the stone for
building the great pyramid came
“from Arabia,” or the eastern side of
the Nile.
It seems probable that the most
ancient portion of the quarry has disappeared,
having been gradually cut
away. The stratum of good stone,
standing like a terrace in front of the
range of hills, was easily cut away
without tunnels, and the boundaries
between one set of operations and the
next were gradually obliterated. The
ground between the present quarries,
which are on the face of the mountain,
and the river is covered with the marks
of the oldest excavations. Thus, though
the casing, at least, of some seventy
pyramids on the other side of the Nile
came from this quarry under the
Pharaohs of the “Ancient Empire”
(Dynasty I-VI), yet we find no ovals
or cartouches older than the time of
the XIIth Dynasty.
The quarries are of very great extent.
Those to the N., to which a railway
has been laid down, are sometimes
distinguished by the name of the
quarries of Toora; those to the S., of
Masárah. At the former are tablets
bearing the names of Amenehat, of
Amunoph II. and III., and of Neco;
at the latter are those of Amosis, Amyrtæus,
Acoris (Hakori), and Ptolemy
Philadelphius, with Arsínoë; and other
tablets have the figures of deities, as
Athor and Thoth, and the triad of
Thebes—Amen, Maut, and Khonsoo,
—without royal ovals. In one of those
at the quarries of Masárah, sculptured
in the 22nd year of Amosis, the leader
of the XVIIIth Dynasty, is the representation
of a sledge bearing a block
of stone drawn by 6 oxen. The hieroglyphic
inscription above it is much
defaced; but in the logible portion,
besides the titles of the king and queen,
“beloved of Ptah and Atum,” we find
that in his 22nd year Amosis took
stones from these quarries both for the
temple of Ptah at Memphis, and for
the temple of Amen at Thebes; showing
that he ruled both Upper and
Lower Egypt. In another quarry
towards the S. is a large tablet, representing
king Amyrtæus (or, as some
suppose him to be, Nectanebo) offering
to the triad of the place, Thoth, the
goddess Nehimeoo and Horus (Nefer-Hor,
“the lord of the land of Bahet”),
and below the king stands a small
figure in the act of cutting the stone
with a chisel and mallet. Besides the
cartouches of the kings, are numerous
enchorial inscriptions, particularly in
the southern quarries, with numbers
and quarry-marks; and here and there
these inscriptions begin with the year
and month of the king's reign in
which that part of the quarry was
commenced.
The quarries are not only interesting
from their extent and antiquity, but
from their showing how the Egyptian
masons cut the stone. They first began
by a trench or groove round a square
space on the smooth perpendicular face
of the rock; and having pierced a
horizontal shaft to a certain distance,
by cutting away the centre of the
square, they made a succession of
similar shafts on the same level; after
which they extended the work down-wards
in the form of steps, removing
each tier of stones as they went on till
they reached the lowest part or intended
floor of the quarry. Sometimes
they began by an oblong shaft, which
they cut downwards to the depth of
one stone's length; and they then continued
horizontally in steps, each of
these forming as usual a standing-place
while they cut away the row above it.
A similar process was adopted on the
opposite side of the quarry, till at
length two perpendicular walls were

left, which constituted its extent; and
here again new openings were made,
and another chamber, connected with
the first one, was formed in the same
manner; pillars of rock being left here
and there to support the roof. These
communications of one quarry, or
chamber of a quarry, with the other,
are frequently observable in the mountains
of Masárah, where they follow in
uninterrupted succession for a considerable
distance; and in no part of
Egypt is the method of quarrying more
clearly shown. The lines traced on
the roof, marking the size and division
of each set of blocks, were probably
intended to show the number hewn by
particular workmen. Instances of this
occur in other places, from which we
may infer that, in cases where the
masons worked for hire, this account
of the number of stones they had cut
served to prove their claims for payment;
and when condemned as a
punishment to the quarries, it was in
like manner a record of the progress
of their task—criminals being frequently
obliged to hew a fixed number
of stones according to their offence.
The mountain of Masárah still continues
to supply stone for the use of
the metropolis, as it once did for
Memphis and its vicinity; and the
floors of the houses of Cairo continue
to be paved with flags of the same
magnesian limestone which the Egyptian
masons employed 4000 years ago.
The occasional Views over the plain,
the Nile, and the several pyramids on
the low Libyan hills beyond the river,
which appear between openings in the
quarries as you wander through them,
have a curious and pleasing effect;
and on looking towards the village of
Masárah, you perceive on the left a
causeway or inclined road, leading towards
the river, by which the stones
were probably conveyed to the Nile.


London; John Murray, Albemarle St.

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279

SECTION IV.
THE ISTHMUS OF SUEZ AND THE EAST OF THE DELTA.

PAGE
ROUTE 7. Cairo to the ,
Ismailia, Lake
Timsah, the Bitter
Lakes, Suez, and
Port Said
279
ROUTE 8. Cairo to Damietta (by
water), Bebayt el-Hágar,
Mansoorah
309
ROUTE 9. Cairo to Damietta (by
rail)
315
ROUTE 10. Cairo to Sân, the
ancient Tanis, and
Lake Menzaleh
(by rail and
water)
316

ROUTE 7.
CAIRO TO THE SUEZ CANAL , BY ISMAILIA ,
LAKE TIMSAH , THE BITTER
LAKES, SUEZ , AND PORT SAID .

a. Preliminary Hints.—b. Cairo to Suez.
c. Town and Neighbourhood of
Suez.—d. Egyptian coast of Red
Sea.—e. Ancient canals of communication
between the Mediterranean
and Red Seas.—f. Various modern
projects for connecting the two Seas.
g. Financial and political history
of the present Maritime .
h. Suez to Port Said by the Canal.
a. Preliminary Hints.—This excursion
will occupy from 4 days to a
week. Those who are going to Mount
Sinai or Syria will be able to take it
on their way, and so save time. The
best plan to pursue is to go direct from
Cairo to Suez by rail. This will occupy
the best part of 1 day, leaving
perhaps time after arriving at Suez to
look about the town, and pay a visit
to the Fresh-Water Canal. The next
day may be devoted to inspecting the
new docks and breakwater, the entrance
to the Maritime Canal, &c.; and
those whose curiosity on these points is
soon satisfied, and who are energetic,
may manage a visit to the wells of
Moses in the same day; otherwise
these must be left to the morrow.
Leave Suez on the 3rd or 4th day, as
the case may be, and return to Ismailia
by train, or, if possible, in a steamer
through the Maritime Canal, which is
well worth traversing in this part, for
the purpose of seeing the cutting of
Shaloof, and the Bitter Lakes. The
remainder of the day after arriving at
Ismailia may be fully occupied in
visiting different points of interest,
which will be specified farther on.
On the following day leave by the
postal steamer for Port Said. The
stay at Port Said, and the time of
leaving will depend upon the direction

in which the traveller's road lies;
whether he is going on by sea to Syria
or to Alexandria, or whether he is returning
by land to Alexandria or
Cairo, or going by the short desert route
to Syria. If he is going anywhere by
sea, he will have timed his movements
so as to suit the departures of
the steamers: if he is returning to
Lower Egypt by land, he can take
the post-boat to Ismilia: and if he
is going by the desert, he will have
arranged for his camels either to wait
for him at Ismailia, or meet him at
Kantara. Those who are going to
Sinai had better go in the first instance
to Port Said, and thence to
Suez, taking Ismailia either going to
or returning from Port Said. No dragoman
is required, nor need any preparation
be made for this excursion, as
there are very fair hotels at Ismailia,
Port Said, and Suez, and their commissionnaires
will be found at the
stations.
b. Cairo to Suez by Railway, 150 m.
—The train for Suez leaves the central
terminus stat, near the Shoobra road
every morning at about 11.45 A.M. There
is also a night slow train. For the exact
time refer to the local time-table.
Kalioob Stat., 8 1/2 m. The train here
leaves the main line to Alexandria,
and turns off eastward, passing through
a fertile country to
Shibeen el-Kanater Stat., 11 m.
About a mile from this village are
some ruins called Tel el-Yahoodeh,
“the Mound of the Jew.” They are
supposed to mark the site of the city
founded by the high-priest Onias, and
called after him Onion or Onia (Metropolis
Oniæ).
Josephus gives a curious account of
the foundation of Onion, and the building
of the temple there. The son of
Onias the high priest, who bore the
same name as his father, having fled
from Antiochus, king of Syria, took
refuge at Alexandria in the time of
Ptolemy Philometer. Seeing that
Judæa was oppressed by the Macedonian
kings, and being desirous to
acquire celebrity, he resolved to ask
leave of Ptolemy and Cleopatra to
build a temple in Egypt, like that of
Jerusalem, and to ordain Levites and
priests out of their own stock. To
this he was also stimulated by a prophecy
of Isaiah, who predicted that
there should be a temple in Egypt
built by a Jew. He therefore wrote
to Ptolemy, expressing this wish, and
saying he had found a very fit place
in a castle that received its name from
the country, Diana. He represented
it as abounding with sacred animals,
full of materials fallen down, and
belonging to no master. He also intimated
to the king that the Jews
would thereby be induced to collect in
Egypt, and assist him against Antiochus.
Ptolemy, after expressing his
surprise that the God of the Jews
should be pleased to have a temple
built in a place so unclean, and so full
of sacred animals, granted him permission;
and the temple was accordingly
erected, though smaller and poorer
than that of Jerusalem. Josephus
afterwards states that the place was
180 stadia distant from Memphis; that
the nome was called of Heliopolis; the
temple was like a tower (in height?),
of large stones, and 60 cubits high; the
entire temple was encompassed by a
wall of burnt brick, with gates of stone.
In lieu of the candlestick he made a
lamp of gold, suspended by a golden
chain. Such is the substance of the
not very clear description given by
Josephus. It is sufficient to settle the
position of the place; and we may suppose
that Onias chose this neighbourhood
for other reasons, which he could
not venture to explain to an Egyptian
king surrounded by Egyptians; perhaps
because it had associations connected
with the abode of the ancestors of
the Jews in Egypt, whence they started
with a high hand, and freed themselves
from the bondage of Pharaoh.
Other Jewish cities seem afterwards
to have been built in this district; and
these whose mounds still remain, and
are known at the present day by the
same title as the one under consideration,
are probably of the “five cities in
the land of Egypt,” which, according

to Isaiah, were “to speak the language
of Canaan.” They continued to be
inhabited by Jews till a late period.
It was from them that Mithridates of
Pergamus received so much assistance,
when on his way to assist J. Cæsar;
and the 500 who were embarked by
Ælius Gallus against Arabia appear
to have been from the same district.
And though Vespasian, after the taking
of Jerusalem, had suppressed their
religious meetings in the Heliopolite
nome, they continued to be established
in many parts of Egypt, independently
of the large quarter they possessed in
Alexandria, from which they were
expelled by the persecutions of the
orthodox Cyril.
Except the crumbling crude-brick
mounds, which can be seen from the
railway, rising to a considerable height,
and rendered especially conspicuous
by the pinnacle-like shape they have
in so many instances assumed, nothing
of any interest had been found at Tel
el-Yahcodeh till 1870, when the fellaheen of the neighbourhood, while
engaged in carrying away the brickdust,
which from the quantity of nitre
it contains forms a valuable top-dressing
to the soil, came across the remains
of what had evidently been a
magnificent building. Unfortunately
no information was given to the proper
authorities of this discovery, and
everything was destroyed and broken
up, or allowed to pass into the hands
of petty dealers in antiquities. The
remains were apparently those of a
large hall paved with white alabaster
slabs; the walls were covered with a
variety of encaustic bricks and tiles;
many of the bricks were of most
beautiful workmanship, the hieroglyphics
in some being laid-in in glass.
The tiles are round, varying in size,
colour, and pattern. The capitals of
the columns were inlaid with brilliant-coloured
mosaics, and a pattern in
mosaics ran round the cornice. Altogether
it must have been a splendid
apartment. Some of the bricks are
inlaid with the oval of Rameses II.;
and if the building is to be referred,
as other circumstances seem to show
it may be, to his reign, the extraordinary
freshness of the colours is a
matter for surprise considering the
material in which they have lain embedded.
Within the area of the hall
were 2 red granite pedestals. A few
yards to the W. is a large bath hollowed
out of a solid piece of limestone, with
steps cut out of the interior, and close
to it a plunging-bath, with signs of
more alabaster pavement. Still farther
to the W. is a large fragment of limestone,
covered with well-executed sculptures.
Rameses II. is seated, and 2
figures, a male and a female, are offering
him a sort of circular fan, representing
apparently a bush or tree with
the tau or emblem of life in it; the
female is grasping a papyrus stem;
Rameses' outstretched right hand holds
a lotus. The original hieroglyphics in
some parts appear to have been covered
with plaster, in which fresh inscriptions
have been cut. Portions of
statues and other remains, of the time
of Rameses II., were discovered in 1873,
and excavations are still occasionally
made which render it probable that, at
some not very distant date, more perfect
remains will be found here. Scattered
about the crude-brick mounds,
which are of large extent, are various
other stone remains. Report speaks of
a Hebrew inscription, but it has not yet
been discovered.
The View from the top of the mounds
is very fine. To the S. are seen the
Pyramids and Cairo, with the citadel
standing prominently out at the projecting
angle of the Mokattam hills;
in the same direction is the obelisk of
Heliopolis. A short distance to the
E. stretches the desert; while to the
N. and W. lies some of the most fertile
and richly wooded land in Egypt. In
the months of January and February,
when the plain is brightly green with
the growing crops, and the foliage
of the trees, which are unusually
abundant in this part and add so
much to the beauty of the landscape,
is in full luxuriance, a finer bit of
scenery, or one more unlike the typical
Egyptian paysage, can hardly be
imagined.
The best way of seeing Tel el-Ya-hoodeh
is to take the train from Cairo

in the morning to Shibeen el-Kanater,
and return by the afternoon train, which
passes about 3.30 P.M.
Continuing our journey through a
very fertile and wooded country, quite
different in aspect from the monotonous
plain through which the rly.
passes between Alexandria and Cairo,
we reach
Belbeis Stat., 16 m. This village
is the successor of Bubastis Agria; in
Coptic, Phelbes. Near it passed the
ancient canal that led to the Bitter
Lakes and thence to the Red Sea,
whose bed may still be traced for a
considerable distance in that direction.
The new Fresh-Water Canal from Cairo,
which is to join the old one from
Zagazig to Ismailia and Suez, and so
provide water communication between
Cairo and the Red Sea, passes by Belbeis,
and follows in fact the course of
the old one above mentioned. Belbeis
was the first halting-place of the English
cavalry on their march to Cairo
after the fight of Tel-el-Kebeer. The
advance guard reached it about noon
on the day of the battle. Passing by
Bordein Stat., 6 m., the line just
before reaching Zagazig runs close
to the ruins of the ancient town of
Bubastis, now called Tel Basta.
Bubastis, in the hieroglyphs written
Bahest Bast, Ha-bahest, the Pibeseth of the Bible and called in Coptic
Poubaste, derived its name, as is apparent
under all of the above forms,
including the modern name, from the
goddess Pasht, to whom the principal
temple was dedicated. It was situated
on the W. bank of the Pelusiac or Bubastite
branch of the Nile, and was
one of the most ancient cities of Egypt.
It was of considerable importance as
far back as the XVIIIth Dynasty; but
it rose to its greatest height under the
XXIInd Dynasty, whose first king, Sheshonk
I. (Shishak), having conquered
Thebes, united in his person the crown
of Upper and Lower Egypt, and fixed
the seat of power at his native town,
Bubastis. Under Amasis of the XXVIth
the eastern branches of the Nile were
neglected for the purpose of bringing
the foreign trade to Sais on the Canopic
branch, and Bubastis, with Tanis and
Mendes, gradually declined; but it retained
enough magnificence to excite
the admiration of Herodotus when he
visited it a few years later. He describes
it as standing higher than any
other place in Egypt, and ascribes this
to the fact that at one time capital
punishments were abolished in Egypt,
and the criminal, “according to the
nature of his offence, set to raise the
ground in a greater or less degree in
the neighbourhood of the city to which
he belonged”—a statement which, if
true, would make it appear that the
people of the Bubastite nome did not
enjoy a very good reputation, since
their capital was raised more than
that of any other town. The beauty
of the temple of “the goddess Bubastis
(Pasht) induced him to give
an unusually minute description of it.
“Other temples,” he says, “may be
grander, and may have cost more in the
building, but there is none so pleasant
to the eye as this of Bubastis.” He
then proceeds to describe it. “The
temple forms a peninsula surrounded
by water on all sides except that by
which you enter. Two canals from
the Nile conduct the water to the entrance
by separate channels without
uniting, and then diverging in opposite
directions, flow round it to the
rt. and 1. They are each 100 ft. broad,
and shaded with trees. The gateway
is 60 ft. in height, and is ornamented
with beautiful figures 6 cubits (9 ft.)
high. The temple is in the middle of
the town; and as you walk round you
look down upon it on every side; for
the town having been considerably
raised, while the temple continues on
the same level where it was originally
founded, entirely commands it. It is
surrounded by a wall of circuit, sculptured
with figures, containing a grove
of very large trees planted round the
body of the temple itself, in which is
the statue of the goddess. The length
and breadth of the whole temple measures
a furlong. At the entrance is a
way paved with stones about 3 furlongs
long, and about 4 plethra broad, planted

on either side with very lofty trees,
which, after crossing the market-place
in an easterly direction, leads to the
temple of Hermes.”
“This account of the position of the
temple of Bubastis is very accurate.
The height of the mound, the site of
the temple in a low space beneath the
houses, from which you look down
upon it, are the very peculiarities
which any one would remark on visiting
the remains of Tel Basta. One
street, which Herodotus mentions as
leading to the temple of Mercury, is
quite apparent, and his length of 3
stadia (furlongs) falls short of its real
length, which is 2250 feet. On the way
is the square he speaks of, 900 feet
from the temple of Pasht (Bubastis),
and apparently 200 feet broad, though
now much reduced in size by the fallen
materials of the houses that surrounded
it. Some fallen blocks mark the position
of the temple of Mercury (Hermes)
but the remains of that of Pasht are
rather more extensive, and show that it
measured about 500 feet in length. We
may readily credit the assertion of Herodotus
respecting its beauty, since the
whole was of the finest red granite,
and was surrounded by a sacred enclosure
about 600 feet square, beyond
which was a larger circuit, measuring
940 feet by 1200, containing the minor
one and the canal he mentions, and
once planted, like the other, with a
grove of trees. … Admidst the
houses on the N.W. side are the thick
walls of a fort, which protected the
temple below; and to the E. of the
town is a large open space, enclosed by
a wall, now converted into mounds.”—
Rawlinson's ‘Herodotus.’ The historic
names found among the sculptures are
those of Rameses II., Osorkon I., and
Amyrtaeus.
In these and other ruins of the
Delta certain peculiarities may be
observed, in which they differ from
those of Upper Egypt. In the latter
the walls of the temples are sandstone,
and the columns built of several
pieces, and granite is confined to obelisks,
statues, doorways, and to the
adyta of some remarkable monuments;
in the Delta the temples themselves
are in great part built of granite, and
the porticos and vestibules have columns
of a single block of the same
materials.
Zagazig Junct. Stat., 6 m. Population
19,800. A town of considerable
importance, the capital of the province
of Sharkeeyeh. [Branch lines
to Benha, on Alexandria and Cairo
main line; and to Aboo Kebeer,
and thence to Mansoorah and Damietta
(see Rtes. 8 and 9), and to
Salaheeyeh.] A stoppage is made
here of half an hour; and a very good
luncheon can be obtained at the restaurant
in the station. There is nothing
at Zagazig to detain the ordinary traveller,
nor, indeed, are there any great
facilities for a stay there; but any one
who is disposed to examine the neighbouring
ruins of Bubastis, or shoot
snipe and wildfowl in the early part of
the year in some marshes not far off,
can generally make arrangements for
board and lodging with the stationmaster.
Zagazig itself presents no
object of interest. It has risen considerably
in importance within the last
few years, and has become the centre
of the trade of the surrounding district,
and of the railway system in the
east of the Delta. A good many
Europeans live in the town, and it
boasts a certain number of respectable
looking houses. An old bridge and
sluices mark the end of the Moëz
canal, which leaves the Damietta
branch of the Nile a little below
Benha. On the other side of the
bridge begins the canal which leads
to Sân, the ancient Tanis, and follows
in its course the bed of the old Tanitic
branch.
After leaving Zagazig, the railway
follows more or less closely the direction
of the Fresh-Water Canal, which
is the modern representative, during
part of its course, of the canal cut by
the ancients to serve as a means of
communication between the Nile and
the Red Sea, and known by different
names at different epochs. The history
of this canal will be found preceding
the description of the .
Passing through a rich and fertile
country, we reach
Aboo-Hamed Stat., 12 m. From this
point the railway may be said to form
the line between the cultivated land
and the desert. On the one side are
nothing but sandy hillocks stretching
away to the horizon, while on the
other, a short distance from, if not
close to, the line, is luxuriant vegetation,
produced and nurtured by the
life-giving canal. Aboo-Hamed is a
pretty village, and one of the stations
on the caravan route between Egypt
and Syria viâ Salaheeyeh.
Tel el-Kebeer Stat., 6 m., a charmingly
situated village in the centre of
the fertile district called El-Wády, or
Wády et Toomilát. This district,
which gives its name to this part of the
canal, was purchased by the
Company of Said Pasha for 74,000l.,
and during the short time in which it
was their property, great agricultural
improvements were begun. In 1863,
however, it was resold to the Egyptian
Government, in accordance with the
terms of the Emperor Napoleon's
award, for 400,000l. Tel el-Kebeer is
the site of the battle in which Lord
Wolseley broke up Araby Pasha's army
on the 13th Sept. 1882, and crushed
the rebellion. The cemetery in which
the English officers and soldiers who
were killed in the action are buried is
near the station. The fortifications of
Tel el-Kebeer are to the E. of the
station, the line of railway passing
through them. As tourists frequently
wish to visit the scene of the action,
Messrs. Cook & Sons sometimes keep a
dahabiah moored on the canal near the
railway station to serve as an hotel.
The line does not again approach the
cultivated land till passing the village
of Kassaseen, or Ras el-Wády, which
forms the extreme point of the Wády
district, and almost the easternmost
limit of the Delta. Kassaseen was the
point where the British forces were
assembled prior to the attack on the
Egyptian position at Tel el-Kebeer.
General Sir Gerald Graham, G.C.B.,
had his headquarters in the house of
the keeper of the lock, and the principal
army hospital was also established
in this house.
Mahsamah Stat., 14 m. In the
neighbourhood is a lake, formerly filled
with water during the high Nile, and
now utilised by the Fresh-Water Canal,
which at this point leaves the railway
and passes, at some distance to the
right, a place called Tel el-Maskutah. This is the site of the very interesting
explorations made by Monsieur E.
Naville for the Egyptian Exploration
Fund in 1883. The account of his
discoveries published by the Fund is
well worth reading. He has identified
the spot as the ancient city of Pithom,
and there appears to be little doubt
that this identification is correct, and
that the theory adopted by the French
explorers, that the city was Rameses,
cannot be upheld. The city was
founded by Rameses II. of the XIXth
Dynasty (see p. 50). The monuments
which bear his name are
the most ancient discovered by M.
Naville, and there is no doubt that he
constructed the great storehouses which
form so remarkable a feature in the
ruins which have been excavated. It
is probable that he built these storehouses
as depots for provisions to supply
the armies which he led into Asia,
and also for the use of the garrison
whose duty it was to guard the eastern
frontier of Egypt. He also opened
the canal from the Nile to keep the
city supplied with fresh water, and it
is quite possible that he employed the
Israelites upon this canal as well as
upon the building of the store cities.
To quote Exodus, chap. i. v. 11, “And
they built for Pharaoh treasure cities,
Pithom and Ramses. And the Egyptians
made the children of Israel to
serve with rigour. And they made
their lives bitter with hard bondage,
in mortar, and in brick, and in all
manner of service in the field.” After
Rameses II., the king who added
most to Pithom was Shishak of the
XXIInd Dynasty, who reigned at
Bubastis (see p. 282). As he had
frequently to fight with the nations of
Asia, it was important for him to keep
in repair the fortresses which commanded
the eastern roads. Other
kings added to the defences, but the
most important monument which M.

Naville discovered was a tablet of
Ptolemy Philadelphus, which relates
what was done for Pithom by this
monarch and his queen Arsinoë. This
tablet, which is now in the museum at
Boolak, gives some interesting information
both as regards the history of the
city of Pithom and of Ptolemy Philadelphus.
It appears from it that
Pithom and the neighbouring city of
Arsincë were the starting-points of
commercial expeditions to the Red
Sea, and that from thence one of
Ptolemy's generals went to the land of
the Troglodytes to bring back elephants
for purposes of war. The city of
Heröopolis was near Pithom, or this
may have been the name given by the
Greeks to the old town. M. Naville
considers that Arsinoë must have been
on the site now occupied by the village
of El-Magfar.
Nafiche (Nefeesh) Stat., 14 m. [Short
branch to Ismailia, 2 1/2 m.] The special
trains carrying the overland passengers
between Suez and Alexandria go on
direct, but the daily ordinary trains
run into Ismailia, and then back again
to the junction at Nefiche. The Fresh-Water
Canal also divides at Nefiche,
one part continuing to Ismailia, and
thence through two locks, gaining the
level of the Maritime Canal, and the
other branching off to Suez. From
Nefiche is obtained the first view of
Lake Timsah, a description of which
will more properly enter into the
account of the .
Ismailia (pronounced Ismaileeyeh).
(Pop. 3400.) Hôtel des Bains, close
to the pier, very comfortable, and food
good. Hôtel de Paris, unpretending
but good. The house is a short distance
from the railway station. (For
description of Ismailia, see p. 303.)
The train returns along the branch
line to Nefiche, and then continues on
the way to Suez. The country is all
desert, a few signs of vegetation
occurring now and then in the immediate
neighbourhood of the Fresh-Water
Canal, which is constantly to
be seen close to the railway. The next
station reached is called
Serapeum Stat., 5 1/4 m. The village
on the Canal to which the French have
given this name, from the circumstance
of some ruins supposed to belong to an
old temple of Serapis having been
found in the neighbourhood, is about
two miles from the station. A small
branch canal leads to it from the
Fresh-Water Canal.
We now come in sight of the Bitter
Lakes, or rather of the northernmost
and larger of these inland seas. Their
description will be found in the account
of the . It is curious
to reflect that this vast expanse of
water, on which the traveller, as he
passes by, will probably see several
large steamers, was, so lately as 1869,
a salt-marsh bordered by desert sand.
Faïd Stat., 11 m. Not far from the
shore of the Great Bitter Lake.
Geneffeh Stat., 12 m. This station
is so named from the hills which have
been for some time seen on the right,
called Gebel Geneffeh. Still skirting
these hills we reach
Chalouf (Shaloof) Stat., 11 m. The
line here approaches to within a very
short distance of the ,
the high banks of which may be seen
from the carriage window, only a few
hundred yards off. The Fresh-Water
Canal, which runs between it and the
railway, here enters the bed of the old
canal of communication first cut by
Darius between the Bitter Lakes, then
called the Gulf of Heröopolis, and the
Red Sea. The reader who studies
the account given (Rte. 14, g) of the
Exodus of the Israelites and their
passage of the Red Sea will find that
it has been conjectured by some that
the scene of that event may be localized
somewhere in the immediate neighbourhood
of this place; the Red Sea
at that remote period having extended
as far as the Bitter Lakes. Continuing
along the high desert land, out of
reach of the high tides which still
sweep up for some distance above
Suez, the line makes a détour to the
right, and turning into the valley to

join the track of the old line between
Cairo and Suez, now done away with,
reaches
Suez Term. Stat., 12 m. The line
is continued down to the new docks
and landing quays close to the roadstead,
about 1 1/2 m. farther on, but the
passenger for Suez will get out at the
station for the town.
c. Town and Neighbourhood of Suez. (Pop. 10,500.)—The best hotel at Suez
is The Suez Hotel, on the old landing
quay. It is clean and comfortable,
and fairly moderate in its charges. It
is advisable to write for rooms in
advance, as sometimes the hotel is
full. There are one or two other
hotels of an inferior kind.
The British Consulate is situated
in the street leading from the hotel
to the station. Letters may be addressed
to the care of the Consul, or to
the hotel. There is daily postal communication
between Suez and the principal
towns in Lower Egypt; and a
regular departure of mails for Europe,
India, Australia, &c
The railway station is near the
town landing quay, close to the residence
of the Governor. The Custom
House is about half way from the
station to the hotel. Trains go down
to the docks about eight times daily.
Fare 2 piastres. There are one or two
trains daily to Cairo, Alexandria, &c.;
and a special through train conveys
the overland passengers to Alexandria,
immediately on the arrival of the
steamer.
Telegraphic messages can be sent,
either by the Egyptian or the English
companies, to any part of the world.
The principal steam packet companies
are the Peninsular and Oriental:
departures for England viâ the Suez
Canal weekly, for Bombay weekly, for
Madras and Calcutta fortnightly, and
for China, Australia, &c., monthly.
The Messageries Maritimes: departures
for China, Cochin China, &c., and
for Europe fortnightly; for Réunion
and the Mauritius, and for Pondicherry,
Madras, and Calcutta, monthly.
The Bombay and Bengal: departure
for Bombay fortnightly. The Khedevieh:
departure for Jeddah and
the coast of the Red Sea every fortnight.
Many other companies, such
as the British India, the Orient line,
the Austrian Lloyd, the Russian Steam
Navigation, &c., which run steamers
to India, &c., direct, through the
, have agencies at Suez,
from which all information can be
obtained. The P. and O. boats plying
between London and the East, and
the Messageries between Marseilles
and the East, now run regularly
through the .
There are a few European shops at
Suez, and a native bazaar, but with
the exception of a few curiosities from
the Hedjaz, brought by the Mecca
pilgrims, there is nothing to tempt a
purchaser.
History.—The Town of Suez is situated
near the N. extremity of the western
branch of the Red Sea, called the
Gulf of Suez. The actual town is of
comparatively modern date; but its
position in ancient times was always
one of considerable commercial importance,
and the cities of Arsinoë and
Clysma stood somewhere in the neighbourhood.
Clysma appears to have
been a fort as well as a town, and was,
perhaps, the spot where the troops destined
to guard the sluices of the canal
were stationed; and it is remarkable
that the elevated height outside the
N. gate of the modern town of Suez is
still known by the name of Kolzim.
It was called Castrum by Hierocles
and Epiphanius: and (Clysma),
or , is first mentioned by
Lucian. It appears to be the same
as the Clysma Præsidium of Ptolemy,
though he places it much farther
down the coast. His positions, however,
are not always certain; and a
garrison would be stationed here rather
than on any other part of the coast.
To Clysma succeeded Kolzim, which
is probably an Arab corruption of the
old Greek name. The name of Kolzim,
or Kolzoom, is still given to some
heights to the N. of Suez; and the
position of the place is fixed by
the mention in history of the reopening
of the canal by Omar to
Kolzim on the Red Sea. Aboolfeda

is still more precise in his position of
Kolzim, and leaves no room to doubt
that it stood exactly at the spot now
occupied by Suez. His words are: “At
the extremity of the gulf intervening
between Tor and Egypt was situated
the town of Kolzim, and those who go
from Egypt to Tor are wont to follow
the coast from Kolzim to Tor.” The
name of “Sea of Kolzim” has also
been given to this part of the Red
Sea; and it has been conjectured that
as Kolzim means in Arabic “destruction,”
there is some reference to the
history of the Israelites, and the overthrow
of Pharaoh's host; but, as we
have seen, the name is probably a corruption
of Clysma. The chief historical
interest of Suez is derived from
its having been supposed to be the
spot near which the Israelites crossed
the Red Sea under the guidance of
Moses, and the Egyptian army was
drowned, but modern criticism tends
to place the scene of this event
farther N.
After the destruction, in the 8th
century, of the canal of communication
with the Nile, Suez became
little better than a small fishing village,
galvanized now and then into
commercial life by the passage of
caravans going to and fro between
Asia and Egypt. Subsequently, at the
beginning of the 16th century, under
Selim I. and Solyman II., it became
a naval depot for the Turkish fleet
in the Red Sea; but the utter decline
of navigation in that sea, consequent
on the discovery of the Cape route to
the East, in 1496, and the want of
fresh water, from which it had always
suffered since the destruction of the
canal, reduced it again to a miserable
collection of Arab huts. The visit of
Buonaparte in 1798 to Suez, and the
project already conceived by him of
uniting the two seas by a direct canal,
ended in nothing; but in 1837, owing
to the exertions of Lieut. Waghorn,
the route through Egypt was adopted
for the transit of the Indian mail, and,
a few years after, the P. and O. Company
began running a line of steamers
regularly between India and Suez.
This was followed in 1857 by the
completion of a railway from Cairo,
and Suez soon began to increase again
in size and importance, and the population
in 1860 numbered about 5000.
It still suffered, however, from the
want of fresh water, the European
population being supplied with Nile
water for drinking, brought in cisterns
by the daily trains from Cairo, while
the remainder of the supply was carried
on the backs of camels from El-Ghurkutch
and Ain Moosa. The completion
by the Company,
at the end of 1863, of the Fresh-Water
Canal from Tel el-Wády to the centre
of the Isthmus, and thence to Suez,
brought an abundance of Nile water
to the town; and the various works in
connection with the , the
new quays, the docks, &c., soon made
Suez a large and busy place of 15,000
inhabitants. With the completion of
the Canal, the activity of the town
somewhat decreased, but its position
on the direct sea route between Europe
and India must always make it a place
of importance.
Description.—The old town itself
offers few points of interest. The
population has decreased to about
10,000, and the town is not in a very
flourishing condition. To the N. of
the town are—the storehouses of the
P. and O. Company—the lock, which
terminates the Fresh-Water Canal and
joins it with the gulf—the Water-works,
which supply water from the
canal to the whole of the town—the
English Hospital—and, on the heights
above the P. and O. storehouses, the
chalet of the Khedive, from which
there is a magnificent view: in the
foreground is the town, the harbour,
the roadstead, and the mouth of the
; to the right the range of
Gebel Attákah, a most striking and
beautiful object, with its black-violet
heights hemming in the Red Sea;
away to the left the rosy peaks of
Mt. Sinai; and between the two, the
deep blue of the gulf.
About two miles to the S. of the
town are the new Quays and Harbours: they may be reached either in
a boat or by the branch railway line
We will suppose the traveller to go by

water and return by land. Leaving
the quay in front of the hotel, the
boat passes down the narrow channel
which formerly served as the means of
communication between the roadstead
and the town. On the left is a
wooden pier, leading to the old Quarantine,
where people sometimes land for
the Wells of Moses. Soon after, on the
right, begins the stone embankment
lining the new quays and harbour,
while the centre of the channel now
marks the line of the ,
which may be seen stretching away to
the left. On the right is the entrance
to the Company's port,
marked by a white light, and then a
quay called the Waghorn Quay, on
which has been erected, by the Suez
Canal Company, a statue of that persevering
and energetic individual, to
whose efforts are due the re-establishment,
in the first instance, of the
Egyptian route between Europe and
the East. Rounding the point of the
quay on which there is a green
revolving light, corresponding with a
similar red one, a short distance
farther down on the left, which marks
the position of some breakers, we come
to the head of the roadstead, capable
of containing 500 vessels of all sizes,
and the entrance to Port Ibrahim ,
divided by a long jetty into two parts,
one for ships of war and the other for
merchant ships. At the head of the
E. part is a dry dock—460 ft. long,
100 ft. broad, and nearly 36 ft. deep.
On the jetty, close to the quays to which
the large steamers moor, is the railway
station, so that passengers embark and
disembark direct. The whole of the
ground on which the quays and other
constructions stand has been recovered
from the sea, and the successful execution
of the work is due to the enterprise
and energy of the contractors, Messrs.
Dussaud Frères, the same who built
the jetties at Port Said. It is proposed
to recover the whole of the swamp
lying between the town and the new
ports, which are now joined by a
massive embankment of artificial stone,
along which the road and railway pass.
At present little is being done, and
even the existing quays are falling
down for want of being kept in proper
repair.
Excursion to Wells of Moses. — A
pleasant excursion may be made to
the Wells or Fountains of Moses,
Ayoon Moosa, or, as it is more commonly
called in the singular, Ain
Moosa.
It will occupy, according to
the route taken and the time spent at
the place, from half a day to a day.
The shortest way is to take a sailing
boat, or one of the small steamers that
ply between the town and the harbour,
as far as the jetty which has been
built out into the sea to communicate
with the new Quarantine, lately established
on the shore of the gulf for the
reception of the pilgrims on their
return from Mecca. From this point
to Ain Moosa the distance is not
much over a mile, and the whole time
occupied in going about two hours; if
donkeys are required between the
jetty and the wells, they must be sent
from Suez. The other plan is to cross
over in a boat to the old Quarantine
jetty, about half a mile from the town,
either taking donkeys in the boat or
sending them on previously, and then
to ride over the , which is
here crossed by a ferry for the passage
of caravans between Arabia and
Egypt, and along the desert to the
Wells. Or the boat may be taken
down to the entrance to the canal,
and then up it a short way to the usual
starting-point for the Wells. Either
of these routes will take from three to
four hours. The sums to be paid for
boats and donkeys had better be
strictly agreed upon beforehand.
There are two so-called hotels at Ain
Moosa, where beds and refreshments
can be procured, but the visitor who
intends spending the day there had
better, perhaps, take some food with
him. This excursion may be combined
with a visit to the docks, the
traveller landing there on his return.
The “Wells” are a sort of oasis,
formed by a collection of springs,
surrounded with tamarisk-bushes and
palm-trees. Since it has become, as
Dean Stanley calls it, “the Richmond
of Suez,”— a regular picnicing

place for the inhabitants of that
town, — some Arabs and Europeans
have regularly settled in it, and there
are now a few houses, and gardens
with fruit-trees and vegetables. The
water from the springs has a brackish
taste. Most of them are simply holes
dug in the soil, which is here composed
of earth, sand, and clay; but
one is built up of massive masonry
of great age. Though not mentioned
in the Bible, its position has
always caused it to be associated
with the passage of the Red Sea by
the Israelites, and tradition has fixed
upon it as the spot where Moses and
Miriam and the children of Israel sang
their song of triumph. We shall see,
however, when considering the question
of the road taken by the Israelites, and
the site of the passage (see Rte. 14, g),
that Ain Moosa has been identified by
some with Marah, and by others with
Elim; and the Arab tradition that
Moses brought up the water here by
striking the ground with his stick may
be taken for what it is worth in corroboration
of the former view.
d. Egyptian Coast of the Red Sea.
The old Coptic name of the Red Sea
was , “the Sea of
Sari,” corresponding to the Im, or Yim
Soof
, of Hebrew, and Bahr
Soof
of Arabic. For though soof is
translated “flags” (Exod. ii. 5), which
do not grow in the Nile, it is here the
same as the Arabic soof, a small seaweed
common in this as in other seas;
and so called from its resemblance to
wool” (soof). It is probably the
Rytiphlœa pinastroides (Phy. Brit. r. 85). The Greek appellation,
, the Red Sea, was originally
applied to the Persian, and afterwards
to this gulf, as well as to that part of
the Indian Ocean which lies between
them; but the name “red” was not
from any seaweed, or coral, or colour
about the sea, or the mountains of the
western coast. It was probably the
Greek literal translation of Edom,
“red,” an idea that is all the more
likely if we suppose the South Arabian
nation of Himyerites to have derived
their name from the Arabic word
Ahmar, “red.” The sea would then
have been called “red,” as being the
Sea of the Red men.
The Red Sea extends from the head
of the Gulf of Suez to the Straits of
Bab-el-Mandeb, about 1400 miles, and
its greatest width is about 200 miles.
At Rás Mohammed it is split by the
peninsula of Sinai into two parts; one,
the Gulf of Suez, about 150 miles long,
and from 10 to 18 wide, and the other,
the Gulf of Akabah, about 100 miles
long, and from 5 to 10 wide. Both
sides of the Gulf of Suez are Egyptian
territory, and also the E. side of the
Red Sea to a point S. of El Wedj about
lat. 26° N. The boundary line between
Egypt and the Turkish territory may
be taken as extending from El Areesh
on the Mediterranean to the head of
the Gulf of Akabah, and thence it runs
parallel to the Red Sea and about fifty
miles inland, meeting the coast line a
little to the south of El Wedj.
The only port on the E. shore between
Suez and the division of the sea is Tor ,
two days' journey from Sinai. The
Egyptian territory extends for about
1200 miles down the W. side of the
Red Sea as far as Massowah. The
Khedivieh Company run steamers,
touching at one or two of the intermediate
ports. Opposite the end of
the Sinai peninsula is Gebel ez-Zeit,
“the mountain of oil,” close to the sea.
At this point the Egyptian government
have lately expended large sums in
searching for the petroleum which
there is reason to believe exists. Up
to the present, although a certain
amount of oil has been found, it has
not been proved to exist in sufficiently
large quantities to pay for the money
sunk. The vote for the present year
is 30,000l. If leave can be obtained
from the Public Works Department, a
visit to the site of the borings might
be made. At El-Gimsheh, a headland,
terminating the bay to the S.S.W. of
it, are some sulphur-mines, grottoes,
and inscriptions in the Sinaitic character.
About 27 m. inland are the
old porphyry quarries of Gebel ed-Dokhán,
“mountain of smoke.” (See
Rte. 11.) The road from Gimsheh,

past Gebel ed-Dokhán may be followed
to Keneh on the Nile. The distance is
about 140 miles.
The ruins of Myos Hormos are on
the coast in latitude 27° 24'. The
town is small, very regularly built,
surrounded by a ditch, and defended
by round towers at the corners, the
faces, and the gateways. The port,
which lies to the northward, is nearly
filled with sand. Below the hills, to
the eastward, is the Fons Tadmos,
mentioned by Pliny. Myos Hormos
was the principal port on the Red Sea
in the time of Strabo. According to
Agatharcides it was afterwards called
the Port of Venus, under which name
it is also mentioned by Strabo. Besides
the ancient roads that lead from Myos
Hormos to the westward (see Rte. 12),
is another running N. and S., a short
distance from the coast, leading to
Aboo Durrag and Suez on one side,
and to Suakin on the S., to which
the Arabs have given the name of
Dthenáyb el-Ayr, or “the ass's tail.”
At Old Kosseir are the small town
and port of Philotera, of which little
remains but mounds and the vestiges
of houses, some of ancient, others of
Arab, date. The name of Philotera
was given it by an admiral of Ptolemy
Philadelphus, in honour of the king's
sister, having been previously called
Ænnum. The modern town of Kosseir stands on a small bay or cove, 4 1/2 m. to
the southward. The population is
about 2000. This is a separate governorship.
It was formerly a place
of some importance, but is now falling
into decay. The water supply is bad.
There is a custom-house, but the trade
is very limited, consisting principally
of dates from Arabia. For the route
between Kosseir and the Nile, see Rte.
12.
After passing Kosseir are the “several
ports” mentioned by Pliny, with
landmarks to direct small vessels
through the dangerous coral-reefs,
whose abrupt discontinuance forms
their mouth. These corresponding
openings are singular, and are owing
to the coral insects not working where
the fresh water of the winter torrents
runs into the sea, which is the case
where these ports are found. There
are no remains of towns at any of
them, except at Nechesia, and the
Leucos Portus; the former now called
Wády en-Nukkaree, the latter known
by the name of Esh-Shóona, or, “the
magazine.” Nechesia has the ruins of
a temple, and a citadel of hewn stone;
but the Leucos Portus is in a very
dilapidated state; and the materials of
which the houses were built, like those
of Berenice, are merely fragments of
madrepore and shapeless pieces of stone.
About half-way between them is
another small port, 4 m. to the W. of
which are the lead mines of Gebel er-Rosás;
and a short distance to the
northward, in Wády Aboo-Raikeh, is
a small quarry of basanite, worked by
the ancients. About 20 m. inland from
the site of Nechesia are the old Neccia
quarries and emerald mines at Gebel
Zobárah.
Behind the headland of Rás Benas,
called Rás el-Unf, or Cape Nose, by
the Arab sailors, opposite Yembo on
the Arabian coast, there is a deep
gulf at the head of which stood the old
town of Berenice. This gulf, according
to Strabo, was called Sinus Immundus.
The long peninsula or
chersonesus, called Lepte Extrema,
projecting from this gulf, is mentioned
by Diodorous, who says its neck was so
narrow that boats were sometimes
carried across it from the gulf to the
open sea. From the end of the cape
may be perceived the peak of St. John,
or the Emerald Isle, Gezeeret Zibírgeh,
or Semérgid, which seems to be the
, or serpentine island, of Diodorous.
The inner bay, which constituted
the ancient port of Berenice,
is now nearly filled with sand; and
at low tide its mouth is closed by a
bank, which is then left entirely exposed.
The tide rises and falls in it
about one foot.
The town of Berenice was founded
by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and so
called after his mother. There is a
temple at the end of a street, towards
the centre of the town, built of hewn
stone, and consisting of three inner
and the same number of outer chambers,
with a staircase leading to the summit,

the whole ornamented with sculptures
and hieroglyphics in relief. It was
dedicated to Serapis; and in the hieroglyphics
are the names of Tiberius
and Trajan.
For the old road between Berenice
and the Nile, see Rte. 12.
Between Ras Benas and Ras Elba
are a number of small harbours which
are much used by Arab traders to convey
provisions to the Bishareen tribes,
and to bring slaves back to Yembo and
Jeddah. Since the trade with the
Soudan has been stopped in consequence
of the rebellion, a good deal of
the commerce which used to pass
through Suakin now goes to these
small harbours, the custom duties being
thus lost to the Egyptian Government.
South of Ras Elba is Ras Roway, a
long, low promontory. Here is an
Egyptian station dependent upon
Suakin. At Roway are some very
extensive salt fields, from which a considerable
amount of salt is exported
annually, principally to India.
Suakin is the most important town
on the W. side of the Red Sea. It is
still nominally Egyptian, and is the
only territory left to the Khedive of
the vast Soodan provinces over which
he ruled five years ago. The rebellion
and the anarchy which now reigns in
the Soudan have almost completely
destroyed the trade of Suakin, and it
will take years before it recovers itself.
There is an Egyptian governor, but his
authority does not extend beyond the
town itself and a few points on the
coast. Some custom duties are collected,
but the revenue is not sufficient at
present to pay for the expenses of
government and the garrison. The
deficiency is paid by Egypt. Suakin
was the scene of the two English expeditions
of 1884, 1885, neither of
which led to any result. It was formerly
a favourite starting point for
shooting expeditions to the Soudan.
but the policy adopted by England of
compelling Egypt to abandon the
country has made travelling in the
interior dangerous, if not impossible.
The principal tribes in the vicinity
of Suakin are the Hadendowa and
Amarar.
e. Ancient Canals of communication
between the Mediterranean and Red
Sea.
—Before entering upon a history
and description of the present maritime
canal between the Mediterranean and
the Red Seas, commonly known as the
, it may be interesting to
give some slight sketch of the ancient
canals of communication which have
at different epochs existed between
the two seas: premising that they all
differ in an important respect from the
present one, in that, while it goes
direct from sea to sea, and is consequently
entirely a salt-water canal,
they were, with the exception of the
part between the Bitter Lakes and the
Red Sea, fresh-water canals, deriving
their supply entirely from the Nile,
and are represented at the present day
by the Wády Canal, and its continuation
to Ismailia and Suez, commonly
called the Fresh-Water Canal.
According to certain authors—Aristotle,
Strabo, and Pliny—the traditional
Sesostris, probably Rameses II.,
first conceived and carried out the idea
of making a water communication between
the two seas, by means of the
Pelusiac branch of the Nile from Avaris
to Bubastis, and then by rendering
navigable the irrigation canal which
already existed between the latter town
and Heröopolis, which would appear,
from M. Naville's recent discoveries,
to have been near Tel el-Maskutah, the
site of the ancient city of Pithom.
Several monuments bearing the cartouche
of Rameses II. were found at
this spot (see p. 284). As this king
built the city of Pithom, it is very
probable that he also made a canal to
conduct the waters of the Nile. There
is, however, no certain historical account
of a canal having been made till
some centuries later, under the rule of
Pharaoh Necho II. (cir. 610 B.C.), who,
according to Herodotus, was “the first
to attempt the construction of the
canal to the Red Sea.” Necho's canal
tapped the Nile at Bubastis, near
Zagazig, and followed almost the line
of the modern Wády Canal to Heröopolis,
which at that time was a port;
the Red Sea, it must be remembered

reaching much further inland than now,
and being called in this upper portion
(now separated from the main sea, and
known as the Bitter Lakes) the Heröopolite
Gulf. The length of the canal
as given by Pliny, of 62 Roman miles
= about 57 English ones, would agree,
allowing for the sinuosities of the
valley traversed, with the distance
between the site of old Bubastis, near
Zagazig, and the present head of the
Bitter Lakes, in the neighbourhood of
Serapeum. The length given by Herodotus
of much more than 1000 stadia
(114 miles), must be considered as including
the whole distance between
the two seas, both by the Nile and the
canal. The story of Herodotus that
120,000 men perished in cutting the
canal, is probably an exaggeration;
and the reason which he assigns for
Necho's desisting from his undertaking
—the warning of an oracle “that he
was labouring for the barbarian”—does
not seem very credible. The more
likely reason was the idea then prevalent,
that the Red Sea was considerably
above the level of the Delta, and that
if the Nile was made to communicate
with that sea, not only would a great
part of the country be inundated by
the latter, but the salt water would
penetrate some way up the river, and
render it undrinkable. This reason,
however, would require the absence of
all knowledge of locks, and even sluices,
by the ancient Egyptians.
The work of Necho was continued
by Darius, the son of Hystaspes (520
B.C.); and the natural channel of communication
between the Heröopolite
Gulf and the Red Sea, which already
probably in the time of Necho had
begun to silt up, having become in the
100 years that had elapsed since then
completely blocked, was cleared out
and rendered navigable. Traces of this
canal, which was about ten miles long,
can be distinctly seen in the neighbourhood
of Shaloof, near the S. end of the
Bitter Lakes, and the present Fresh-Water
Canal follows its course for
some distance between that point and
Suez. Several Persian monuments
were found by Lepius in this part of
the Isthmus, commemorating this work
of Darius; and on one of them the
name of Darius is written in the Persian
cuneiform character, but in a cartouche
of Egyptian form. It will be
seen, then, that up to this time the
transit between the two seas was
effected thus:—ships sailed up the
Pelusiac branch of the Nile to Bubastis,
and thence along the canal to Heröopolis,
where their cargo was transhipped
to Red Sea vessels.
This inconvenient transhipment of
cargo was remedied by the next Egyptian
sovereign, who made the water
communication between the two seas
his care, Ptolemy Philadelphus (285
B. C.). M. Naville found at Tel el-Maskutah
a most interesting tablet
of this king, which informs us that
Pithom or Heröopolis and the neighbouring
city of Arsincë were the starting
points of commercial expeditions
to the Red Sea; the tablet alludes to
a canal which seems to have led from
the city to the head of the Red Sea.
In addition to cleaning out and
thoroughly restoring the two canals, he
joined the fresh-water canal with the
Heröopolite Gulf by means of a lock
and sluices, which, while it permitted
the passage of vessels, prevented the
salt water from mingling with and
spoiling the fresh. At the point at
which the canal between the Heröopolite
Gulf and the Red Sea joined
the latter he founded the town of
Arsinoë.
Whether the next sovereign who
took means to restore the line of communication
between the two seas,
which, as we know, was impassable in
the time of Cleopatra (31 B.C.), was
Trajan or Hadrian (98-138 A.D.) is uncertain.
The Nile had almost entirely
deserted the Bubastite or Pelusiac
branch, and therefore it would be
necessary to tap it at a much higher
point; and the traditional name of
Amnis Trajanus given to the old
canal which leaves the Nile near old
Cairo, and formerly joined the old line
of canal to the Bitter Lakes, seems to
point to that as having been the new
canal cut by Trajan to join the old
one, which he also cleaned out and
rendered again navigable. But it is

very doubtful whether any work of
this kind was undertaken in the time
of the Romans, and it is more probable
that the new canal above mentioned
was the work of Amer (Amrou), when
ordered by the Khalif Omar to send
supplies of corn to Mecca and Medina,
and the whole of the Hedjáz then
(639 A.D.) suffering severely from
famine. It joined the old canal near
the latter's former point of departure
in the neighbourhood of old Bubastis.
In return for the anxiety thus displayed
for the Holy Cities, and Arabia
generally, Omar received the flattering
title of “Prince of the Faithful”
(Emeer el Momeneén), which was
thenceforward adopted by his successors
in the Khalifate. One hundred
and thirty-four years after, El- Mansoor
Aboo Gafer, the second Khalif of the
Abbaside Dynasty, and the founder of
Bagdad, is said to have closed this
canal, to prevent supplies being sent to
one of the descendants of Ali, who had
revolted at Medina. Since that time it
has remained unopened; though some
assert that the Sultan Hakim once
more rendered it available for the passage
of boats, in the year A.D. 1000,
after which it became neglected and
choked with sand.
But though the passage of boats
was impeded, and it was no longer of
use for communication with the Red
Sea, some portion still contained water
during the inundation, until closed by
Mohammed Ali; at which time it is
said to have flowed as far as Sheykh
Hanáydik, near Toossoom and the
Bitter Lakes.
The old canal which left the Nile at
Cairo had long ceased to flow much
farther than the outskirts of the city,
and the still more ancient one from
the neighbourhood of Bubastis, now
known as the Wády Canal, extended
only a few miles in the direction of
the Isthmus, as far as Kassassin, when
the necessity for supplying the labourers
with fresh water along the line of the
induced the Company in
1861 to prolong it from Kassassin to
the centre of the Isthmus, and afterwards
in 1863 to carry it on to Suez.
In one or two places the bed of the
old canal was cleared out and made to
serve for the new one. Its level is
about 20 feet above that of the Suez
Canal, which it joins at Ismailia by
means of two locks; and the same difference
of level between it and the
Red Sea is remedied by means of four
locks between Nefeesh and Suez. The
average depth of water at high Nile is
6 feet, and at low Nile 3 feet. This
canal, called the Ismaileeyeh, leaving
the Nile at Kasr-en-Neel and passing
by Heliopolis and Belbeis, restores the
line of water communication between
the Nile and the Red Sea as it existed
perhaps in the time of Trajan, certainly
in the time of Omar; but its
importance as a means of transit is
purely local and internal. Another
canal from Zagazig joins the Ismaileeyeh
at Abu Hamed, not far from
Tel el-Kebeer.
f. Various modern projects for connecting
the two seas.
— We have seen
that all the more enlightened sovereigns
who ruled Egypt at different
periods paid special attention to the
means of transit through that country
between the East and the West; and
so much so, that Ptolemy Philadelphus,
one of the chief restorers of the canal
communication between the Mediterranean
and Red Sea, founded another
line of route through Egypt from Myos
Hormos and Berenice on the Red Sea,
to Coptos, on the Nile, near Thebes.
And this route continued to be of great
importance up to the time of the discovery
of the Cape passage by Vasco
da Gama in 1497, from which time all
the overland routes between East and
West, both through Asia and Africa,
were gradually abandoned. About the
same date, the Venetians, who had
almost a monopoly of the trade with
the East through Egypt, and thence
down the Red Sea, were much troubled
by the Portuguese taking away
their commerce by means of the Cape
route, and there appears little doubt
that the Doge of Venice considered
the possibility of having a canal cut
through the Isthmus of . Negotiations
were begun between the
Venetian Republic and the Sultan of

Egypt El Ghoree, but were put a stop
to by the Turkish invasion in 1517,
after which all idea of cutting a canal
was given up.
The first in more comparatively
modern times to take up the subject of
a water communication between the
two seas was Napoleon Buonaparte.
After having in 1798 examined him-self
the traces of the old canal of
Necho and his successors, he ordered
M. Lepère to survey the Isthmus, and
prepare a project for uniting the two
seas by a direct canal. The result of
the French engineer's labours was to
discover a difference of 30 ft. between
the Red Sea at high water and the
Mediterranean at low; and as this
inequality of level seemed to preclude
the idea of a direct maritime canal,
the following compromise was recommended:—
1. a fresh-water communication
between Alexandria and the
Bitter Lakes in the following manner,
(a) Canal from Alexandria to Ramaneeyeh
on the Rosetta branch. (b)
Rosetta branch to Cairo. (c) Canal
from Cairo by El-Wády in the old line
to the Bitter Lakes, which were to be
filled with fresh water, and closed at
the S. end by a lock. (d) Sea canal to
Suez. 2. Direct communication between
the two seas by (a) The sea
canal from Suez to the Bitter Lakes,
and (b) A fresh-water canal from the
Bitter Lakes to Pelusium. This report
was not finished till after the evacuation
of Egypt by the French, and circumstances
prevented any attempt at
its execution. Although, owing to the
exertions of Lieutenant Waghorn, the
route through Egypt was chosen in
1837 for the transmission of the mails
between England and India, and the
P. and O. Company established a service
of steamers between England and
Alexandria, and Suez and India, nothing
more was done with regard to a
canal till 1846, when a mixed commission,
including Stephenson, was appointed
to inquire into the subject.
They exploded the old error so extraordinarily
confirmed by Lepère, respecting
the difference of level between
the two seas, and proved that it was
inappreciable, but separated without
coming to any conclusion, leaving it
to one of their number, M. Talabot, to
present a project of his own. His idea
was to follow the old canal from Suez
to near Zagazig, avoiding the Bitter
Lakes, then take a direct line up to the
head of the Delta to the Barrage then
building; carry the canal across the
river at this point by means of a gigantic
aqueduct, and then continue it in a
direct line to Alexandria. The difficulties
involved in this plan proved it
to be impracticable; and the same
verdict awaited the project of Messrs.
Barrault, who proposed to go from
Suez through Lake Menzaleh to Damietta,
then across the Damietta
branch of the Nile to Rosetta, and so
across the Rosetta branch to Alexandria.
The next project was drawn up in
1855 by M. Linant-Bey and M. Mougel-Bey,
under the superintendence of
M. de Lesseps, who had already received
a first firman of concession from
the then viceroy Said Pasha. It recommended
a direct canal between Suez
and Pelusium, passing through the
Bitter Lakes, Lakes Timsah, Ballah,
and Menzaleh, and communicating
with the sea at each end by means of a
lock. A fresh-water canal from Boolak
to the centre of the Isthmus, and
thence to Suez, with a conduit for
conveying water to Pelusium, was also
proposed. This project was in 1856
submitted to an international commission,
comprising representatives from
Austria, England, France, Italy, the
Netherlands, Prussia, and Spain, and
the following modifications introduced.
The line of the canal to the N. was
slightly altered and brought to a point
17 1/2 m. W. of Pelusium; this change
being determined on from the fact of
there being deep water (25 to 30 ft.) at
a distance of 2 m. from the coast at
this point; whereas at Pelusium the
same depth was only found at a distance
of 5 m. The locks were done
away with, and the length of the
jetties at Suez and Port Said modified,
and various other minor details settled.
This was the project accepted, and so
successfully carried out by the Suez
Canal Company.
g. Financial and political history
of the present Maritime Suez Canal.

In 1854 M. de Lesseps, whose father
was the first representative of France
in Egypt after the occupation of 1798-1801,
and who had himself been Consul
at Cairo from 1831-1838, obtained the
first preliminary concession from Said
Pasha, authorizing him to form a company
for the purpose of excavating a
canal between the two seas, and laying
down the conditions on which the
concession was granted. This was
followed by the drawing up and revision
of the project mentioned above,
and the renewal in 1856 of the first
concession with certain modifications
and additions. Meanwhile the British
Government, under the influence of
Lord Palmerston, then Foreign Secretary,
endeavoured, for a variety of
political reasons, to throw obstacles in
the way of the enterprise, and so far
succeeded as to prevent the Sultan
from granting his sanction to the concession
made by the Viceroy. M. de
Lesseps, however, sanguine as to the
result—he had, as he himself said,
“pour principe de commencer par
avoir de la confiance”—and encouraged
by the favourable reception his project
had met with in Europe, determined
to open, in 1858, the subscription that
was to furnish funds for the undertaking.
The capital, according to the
statutes of the Company approved in
the firman of concession, was to consist
of 8,000,000l., in shares of 20l. each. Rather more than half of this
was subscribed for, and eventually in
1860 Said Pasha consented to take
up the remaining unallotted shares,
amounting to more than 3,500,000l. Disregarding the opposition of the
English Government, and the withholding
through its influence of the
consent of the Porte, M. de Lesseps
began his work in 1859; and on the
25th of April in that year the works
may be said to have been formally
commenced by the digging, in the
presence of M. de Lesseps and four
directors of the Company, of a small
trench along the projected line of the
Canal, on the narrow strip of sand
between Lake Menzaleh and the Mediterranean.
This was followed by the
establishment of working encampments
in different parts of the Isthmus.
But, though the first step had been
won, difficulties of various kinds prevented
the work from making very
rapid progress, and at the end of 1862
the actual results were only a narrow
channel cut from the Mediterranean to
Lake Timsah, and the extension of the
Fresh-Water Canal from Rás el-Wády
to the same point. The principal work
done in 1863 was the continuation of
the Fresh-Water Canal to Suez. At
this point a difficulty arose, which
threatened to stop the works altogether.
Among the articles of concession of
1856 was one providing that four-fifths
of the workmen on the Canal should
be Egyptians; and Said Pasha consented
to furnish these workmen by
conscription from different parts of
Egypt, the Company agreeing to pay
them at a rate equal to about two-thirds
less than was given for similar
work in Europe, and one-third more
than they received in their own
country, and to provide them with
food, habitations, &c. In principle
this was the corvée or forced labour;
the fellaheen being taken away from
their homes and sent to work at the
Canal, though there is no doubt that
when there they were as well treated
and better paid than at home. However
the injustice and impolicy of
this clause had always been insisted
on to the Sultan by the English Government;
and the late Khedive, on his
accession to power in 1863, perceived
at once that the continual drain upon
the working population necessary to
supply the Canal with 20,000 fresh
labourers monthly was a loss to the
country which nothing could compensate
for. He therefore in the early
part of 1864 refused to continue to
send the monthly contingent, and the
works in consequence came almost to a
standstill. Other points of difference
at the same time arose between the
Sultan, the Egyptian Government, and
the Company, with regard to the large
grant of lands made to the Company
in the original concession, and the proprietorship
of the Fresh-Water Canal

from Rás el-Wády to Suez. By the
consent of all parties, the subjects
in dispute were submitted to the
arbitrage of the French Emperor,
Napoleon III., who decided that the
two concessions of 1854 and 1856 being
of the nature of a contract, and binding
on both parties, the Egyptian
Government should pay an indemnity
of 1,520,000l. for the withdrawal of
the fellah labour, 1,200,000l. for the
resumption of the lands originally
granted, 200 metres only being retained
on each side of the canal for the erection
of workshops, deposit of soil excavated,
&c., and 640,000l. for the
Fresh-Water Canal, and the right of
levying tolls on it; the Egyptian
Government undertaking to keep it in
repair and navigable, and to allow the
Company free use of it for any purpose.
The sum total of these payments
amounted to 3,360,000l., and
was to be paid in 16 instalments from
1864 to 1879.
The Company now proceeded to replace
by machinery the manual labour
whose services they had lost; and
thanks to the energy and ingenuity of
the principal contractors, Messrs. Borel
and Lavallcy, that which seemed at first
sight to threaten destruction to the
whole enterprise, led more than anything
to its being ultimately successful
—for it may be said that without the
machinery thus called into action, the
Canal would never have been completed
when it was; and when we
look at the ingenuity displayed in the
invention of this machinery, and the
enormous scale on which it was applied,
it must certainly be considered
as one of the chief glories of the work.
It may be noted that its first cost
was 2,400,000l., and its monthly consumption
of fuel 40,000l. A further
sum of 400,000l. was realized in 1866
by the sale of the tract of land called
El-Wády, which had been purchased
by the Company of Said Pasha for the
sum of 74,000l. And, by a new convention,
the term for the payment of
the remainder of the indemnity awarded
by the Emperor Napoleon was shortened
by ten years, and the whole sum
was to be paid by 1869.
The work now proceeded without
interruption of any kind; but at the
end of 1867 it became evident that
more money would be needed, and a
subscription was opened for the purpose
of obtaining 4,000.000l. by means
of 20l. shares, issued at 12l., bearing
interest at the rate of 1l. per share,
and repayable at par in fifty years.
Of this loan little more than a fourth
was obtained in six months, and in
order to get the rest without delay the
Company obtained permission to issue
bonds, reimbursable by lottery drawings,
on condition that their nominal
value should be not less than 20l., that
they should bear interest at not less
than 3 per cent. on the nominal capital,
and that the sum annually devoted to
prizes should not exceed 1 per cent. of
the capital. The prospect of 40,000l. a year in prizes, varying from 80l. to
6000l., to be drawn for quarterly, in
addition to the already favourable
terms of the subscription, soon brought
in the remainder of the loan. But
money was again needed in 1869,
and the Company, for the sum of
800,000l., yielded up to the Egyptian
Government its right of free passage
and exemption from custom-house
duties along the Fresh-Water Canal,
agreed to take half only of whatever
the land still belonging to it might
fetch, and renounced entirely all special
rights and privileges of any kind.
For a further sum of 400,000l. it sold
to the Egyptian Government all its
establishments on the Isthmus, including
the hospitals and their matériel,
the quarry and harbour of Mex near
Alexandria, and its workshop and establishments
at Boolak and Damietta.
As, however, the Government were
unable to find the money, it agreed to
renounce the interest on the shares
held by it for 25 years, and by this
means enabled the Company to issue
fresh bonds, called délégations, for the
1,200,000l. At this time, it may be
added, the Company were receiving a
revenue of about 5000l. a month as their
share, for the transit receipts between
Port Said and Suez, viâ the Maritime
Canal to Lake Timsah, and thence to
Suez by the Fresh-Water Canal.
The complicated nature of the money
arrangements between the Egyptian
Government and the Company, make
it difficult to know exactly how far
the former had actually fulfilled its
engagements at the time of the opening;
but supposing it to have done so
completely, the capital received by the
Suez Canal Company, up to the opening
of the Canal in Nov. 1869, would
amount in all to about seventeen million
sterling, as thus:—
Original Capital £8,000,000
Indemnity for withdrawal of fellaheen, &c. 3,360,000
Sale of the el-Wády Estate 400,000
Lottery Loan 1868 4,000,000
Additional Loan 1869 1,200,000
Total £16,960,000
The addition of sums arising from
various sources of profit would bring
the total amount to considerably more
than the sum stated above of seventeen
millions. Of this amount, as may be
seen, 13,200,000l. is interest-bearing:
but as by the agreement of 1869 mentioned
above, the Egyptian Government
gave up the interest in its shares
for 25 years, the value of the 176,602
20l. shares held by it (=3,532,040l.)
must be deducted, and the interest-bearing
capital would consequently
stand thus:—
223,398 shares at 20l. £4,467,960
Lottery or Debenture Loan 1868 4,000,000
Additional Loan 1869 1,200,000
Total £9,667,960
On the 17th Nov. 1869 the Canal
was opened for traffic; not completely
finished, it is true, but sufficiently so
to enable 48 ships, some drawing 18
feet of water, to pass through to Lake
Timsah, and continue their voyage
to Suez the following day. All
nations may be said to have assisted
at the ceremony; and England forgot
her old political jealousy of the undertaking,
and her scepticism as to its
success, in the prospect of the benefit
she was likely to reap from this
shortened route to the East. The
vessels which took part in the opening
procession of course paid no rates for
passage. But immediately afterwards
a regular traffic set in, the first ship
to pay the dues being an English one.
By the concession of 1856 the tariff,
which, it is expressly stated, is to be
the same for ships of all nations, was
fixed at 10 francs (8 shillings) per ton,
and 10 francs per passenger; in
addition to which there are extra dues
for pilotage, amount of water drawn,
&c. The transit dues were from the
opening to the 1st July, 1872, levied
on the registered tonnage; from that
date they were levied on the gross tonnage
up to 29th April, 1874, when in
accordance with the decision of an international
commission the former rate
was resorted to. The following table
will show the manner in which the
traffic through the Canal has increased
since it was opened for traffic:—
Ships. Tonnage. Dues.
1870 491 436,618 £206,372
1872 1082 1,439,169 656,304
1875 1496 2,940,708 1,155,452
1878 1593 3,291,525 1,246,129
1881 2727 5,794,401 2,187,040
1884 3284 8,319,967 2,576,083
1885 3624 8,985,411 2,601,998
The nationalities and tonnage of the
ships which passed through in 1885
were as follows:—
Ships. Tonnage.
Great Britain 2734 6,854,815
France 294 850,112
Holland 139 345,042
Germany 155 283,833
Italy 109 239,812
Austria 69 165,180
All other countries 124 246,017
The first year in which the receipts
exceeded the expenses was in 1872.
The financial and political difficulties
encountered in the carrying out of this
gigantic work were by no means slight,
but they were successfully passed
through, and the steadily increasing
use made of the Canal, especially by
English vessels, shows that the saving
in distance and expense offered by
this route is appreciated, and that the
Canal, from being looked upon as the
“futile attempt of a clever enthusiast,”
is regarded as an accomplished fact,
and as affording the natural line for
traffic between East and West. The

following table gives the relative distances
by the Cape route, and by the
Canal, from England, America, Russia,
and France, to India:—
Viâ. Cape of Good Hope. Viâ Suez Canal. Saving.
England to Bombay (nautical miles) 10,860 6,020 4,840
New York to Bombay 11,520 7,920 3,600
St. Petersburg to Bombay 11,610 6,770 4,840
Marseilles to Bombay 10,560 4,620 5,940
Before closing this short sketch, it
may not be inappropriate to notice
how much Egypt contributed towards
the making of the . Some
idea of it may be gained by summarising
certain items already referred
to—
176,602 original 20l. shares £3,532,040
Payment by arbitration award of 1864 3,360,000
For re-purchase of el-Wády estate 326,000
For re-purchase of certain rights, &c., by renunciation of interest,
on shares for 25 years
1,200,000
Total £8,418,040
And to this may be added the almost
fabulous sums said to have been spent
on the festivities at the opening. This
amount, however, has since been reduced
by the sale, in 1875, to the
English Government of the original
176,602 shares for 4,000,000l. These
shares carry no interest till 1894 (see
above), but the Egyptian Government
pays 7 per cent. on the money till
1886. As the Canal is insufficient for
the traffic which passes through it, the
Company are preparing to spend a
large sum of money in widening it.
h. Suez to Port Said by the Canal. 100 miles.
The traveller must obtain information
at Suez as to the best means of
going through the Canal to Ismailia.
A passage may often be obtained
on board some large vessel passing
through (fare, about 10 francs, exclusive
of food; time occupied about
16 hrs., if there is no delay). Or a
small steam launch or sailing boat can
be hired; but it must be borne in
mind that if there is at all a strong
wind blowing, neither small steam
launches nor sailing boats are very
safe in the Bitter Lakes. If there
is any difficulty in getting a passage
through the Canal to Ismailia, that
portion of the route might be seen in
the following way. Make a day's excursion
in a boat, or on donkey, or
horseback, from Suez to the Bitter
Lakes and back; the time in coming
back may be shortened by taking the
train from Shaloof, or you might go
by train to Shaloof in the morning,
taking the donkeys with you. Then
the next day go from Suez by train to
Ismailia, and make an excursion thence
to the N. end of the Bitter Lakes.
From Ismailia there is a steam post
launch daily to Port Said (fare about
20 francs; time about 6 hrs.) For
convenience sake, however, we shall
suppose the traveller to start from Suez
by the Canal.
The annexed table of the dimensions
of the Canal may be useful for reference
on the way:—
Feet.
Width at water-line, where banks are low 328
Width at water-line in deep cuttings where
banks are high
190
Width at base 72
Depth 26
Slope of bank near water line 1 in 5, near base
1 in 2.
The total length is 100 miles, which
may be divided with reference to the
water-line width and the character of
the soil, thus:—
Miles.
Plain of Suez. full width, tenacious soil 10
Cutting of Shaloof, reduced width, tenacious
soil and rocks with upper coating
of sand
5
Bitter Lakes 25
Sortie from Bitter Lakes, full width, tenacious
soil, with upper coating of sand
2
Serapeum and Toussoom cuttings, reduced
width, sand
6
Lake Timsah 5
Cutting of Guisr, reduced width, sand 6
Lakes Ballah and Menzaleh, full width,
with short sandy cuttings at El-Ferdane
and Kantarah of about 3 miles
41
Total 100
Leaving the roadstead, the mouth of
the Canal, which is here 900 feet wide

and 27 feet deep, is soon reached. It
is guarded at its entrance by a mole
1/2 a mile long, which projects from the
Asiatic shore, and protects it from
southerly gales and from the action
of the tide at high water. This mole
is built of calcareous rock from the
quarries at the foot of Gebel Attákah on
the African shore. Past this, on the
left, is a stone embankment facing the
ground on which stand the offices and
workshops of the Company, and the
constructions belonging to the new
quays mentioned in the account of Suez.
The whole of the ground on which
these buildings stand is composed of
dredgings from the channel of the
Canal. First the embankments were
built, and then the dredges with long
ducts (à long couloir) were moved
alongside, and the dredgings deposited
behind the embankments. At
the point where the channel of deep
water leading up to Suez enters the
Canal is a small dock belonging to
the Company. Sweeping round in a
long curve, between embankments
built of the half-formed rock that here
lay beneath the upper coating of sand,
the Canal, gradually narrowing to its
proper width, passes on the left the
old Quarantine station, and enters
what is called the
Plain of Suez , a sort of marshy
lagoon, slightly above the level of
the sea, extending up to the heights
of Shaloof. Both through this plain
and the higher ground near the
old Quarantine station a first shallow
channel was dug by hand in 1866,
a dam being left nearly opposite the
station to keep out the flow of the sea
at high tide. The channel thus cut
was filled, partly by infiltration from
the surrounding marshes, and partly
by fresh water brought through a
narrow cutting from the Fresh-Water
Canal. Dredges were then floated in,
to complete the excavation to the required
depth. The dredging here was
very difficult, the soil being composed
of very stiff clay and half-formed stone.
Indeed the strain upon the machines
was so great, and the progress made so
slow, that it was found necessary at
the end of 1868 to change the mode of
attack along a portion of the plain,
and proceed to excavate à sec and by
hand-labour. Accordingly, leaving a
dam at Kilometre 148, and confining
the working of the dredges to the portion
south of this point, the water was
pumped out of the remaining six or
seven miles up to the heights of Shaloof
already dug through, and closed by
another dam, and in a short time
15,000 men were hard at work with
barrow, spade, pickaxe, and blasting-tools.
The following notes written on
the spot in April, 1869, will give some
idea of the aspect of the work at that
time:—”The whole scene along these
six or seven miles was truly wonderful;
such a number and variety of men
and animals were, probably, never before
collected together in the prosecution
of one work. There were to be
seen European gangs—Greeks. Albanians,
Montenegrins, Germans, Italians,
&c., generally working at the lower
levels, and where the tramways and
inclined planes carried away the dèblais.
Their only animal helpers were
mules to draw the waggons. Then
would come groups of native gangs,
the produce of their pickaxes and
spades borne away in wheelbarrows, or
on the backs of camels, horses, donkeys,
and even children. Of these animals
the donkeys were the most numerous,
as well as the most intelligent. It was
curious to watch them. Seldom did
the boy whose post it was to drive
them think of accompanying them; he
generally stood at the top of the embankment,
and emptied the contents of
their baskets as they arrived. Below,
as soon as the basket was loaded, one of
the fillers would give the animal a
smack with the spade, and an emphatic
'Emshee ya kelb!' ('Get
along, O dog'), and it would quietly
move off, and gradually make its way
to the top; where the basket emptied,
it would be dismissed with another
'Emshee,' and proceed down again.
These donkeys would preserve an unbroken
line in mounting and descending
the tortuous and steep incline; and
if a stoppage took place, a shout from
the men was sufficient to send them

on again. Their only trappings were
the open-mouthed sacks made of shreds
of palm-leaf, flung across their bare
backs, forming a double pannier. The
camels had a more scientifically constructed
burden, consisting of a pair
of open wooden boxes closed at the
bottom by doors fastened with a bolt.”
With a very gradual bend to the W.
the Canal enters the deep cutting of
Shaloof. The sevil, as the French call
it, of Shaloof (Chalouf) et-Terraba is a
plateau of from 20 to 25 feet above
the sea-level, and about six miles in
length. The surface soil down to the
future water-line of the Canal was
excavated by forced contingents of
fellaheen in 1863. Nothing more was
then done till 1866, when the work
was recommenced á sec by workmen
from all countries of Europe and such
natives as could be procured, the soil
being removed and discharged over
the banks by means of a very complete
system of tramways and inclined
planes. A serious obstacle was here
encountered in the shape of a layer of
rock several feet deep, and extending
for about 400 yards along the cutting.
It was composed principally of sandstone,
with varieties of limestone and
conglomerate; the latter in some places
very hard, in others soft, as though
recently formed. Fossil remains of
the shark, hippopotamus, tortoise, a
species of whale, &c., were found in
the rock. It has been conjectured, and
not without reason, that the heights of
Shaloof owe their origin to an earthquake,
which may have been so far
felt here as to raise the soil slightly.
According to the same hypothesis, this
phenomenon would have been the cause
of the first separation of the Heröopolite
Gulf, now the Bitter Lakes, from
the main body of the Red Sea, only a
narrow and shallow channel of communication
being left between them.
Across this channel, the combined
action of the wind and tide, and the
sand detritus from the neighbouring
hills would in time form a bar, thus
isolating completely the northern gulf;
and the same causes continually at
work would, century after century,
increase the size of the obstructing
height, and push the shore of the Red
Sea, little by little, farther south.
Various sovereigns of Egypt attempted
to keep open the communication between
the Heröopolite Gulf and the
Red Sea; and the course of the canal
first cut by Darius can be distinctly
traced in the neighbourhood of Shaloof.
Many are inclined to place the site of
the Israelites' passage of the Red Sea
near this point (see Rte. 14 g.) 52,000
cubic yards of rock were blasted and
cleared away. The sight while the work
was going on here was a most remarkable
one, presenting the appearance of
a huge excavated valley, of vast depth
and width, the bottom covered with a
network of tramways, the sides lined
with inclined planes, and the whole
swarming with thousands of workmen.
The Canal here narrows to a width at
the water-line of only 190 feet.
The banks gradually lower as we
pass out of the Shaloof cutting into
the southernmost part of the Bitter
Lakes, called by the French the
“Petit Bassm des Lacs Amers.” The
so-called Bitter Lakes are supposed to
have formed in more ancient times the
northern portion of the Red Sea, known
as the Sinus Heröopolites. Cut off
gradually, as explained above, from
the main sea, the waters of the gulf in
time evaporated, leaving a dry depression
divided into two unequal parts:
the southernmost and smallest (Little
Bitter Lake), about 7 miles long, and
2 wide, with an average depth in the
centre of 15 feet below the old waterline;
and the northernmost and
largest (Great Bitter Lake), 15½ miles
long, and about 6 wide, with an average
depth in the centre of 25 to 30
feet below the old water-line. A narrow
isthmus about a mile in length,
and rising at its highest point to about
sea-level, formed the separation. The
bottom was a species of salt-marsh,
with water a few inches below the
surface; but in the centre of the
larger depression was an elliptical-shaped
bank of salt, 7 miles in length
by 5 in width.
The excavating work in this portion
of the Canal was very slight;

only the neck between the two depression
had to be cut through, and
an entrance to the channel made at
each end, the depth in the centre
being more than sufficient. But the
filling this vast expanse with water
was an achievement second to none in
the progress of the undertaking. It
was commenced on the 17th of March,
1869, by letting in the waters of the
Mediterranean which had already filled
Lake Timsah, and advanced through
the Canal to the foot of the enormous
weir destined to regulate their flow into
the Bitter Lakes. This weir, the largest
probably ever made up to that time, had
been constructed in the west bank of
the Canal, with a curved channel leading
from it into the lakes: the line of
the Canal continuing in a straight
line, and being closed at the entrance
to the lakes by a dam. The weir was
more than 350 feet in length, with 25
openings, each of which had 20 doors,
so that the flow of water could be regulated
to any degree. The whole opening
represented about 328 feet in
length by rather more than 3 in height,
and was about 3 feet below the level
of the water-line of the Canal, so that
the force of the stream pouring through
was increased by the weight of the
water above it. In order to break the
fall of such a mass of water and prevent
its eating back under the weir, a
solid platform was constructed, composed
of piles driven in, and then joined
together by cross beams, and filled in
to a depth of 10 feet with hard clay;
over this was a stout planking nailed
to the piles, and covered with pieces
of stone, old iron, &c.; while for 300
yards along the channel below the
weir were placed huge pieces of
rock to break the force of the water.
When all the doors were raised, from
4 to 5 million cubic metres of water
passed through in the day. Three
months later a similar weir, but of still
larger dimensions, was constructed near
Shaloof, and the water of the Red
Sea admitted through it into the
southern portion of the Bitter Lake.
As much as from 10 to 12 million
cubic metres of water were discharged
in a day through this weir. Altogether
it was calculated that 19 hundred
million cubic metres of water, allowing
for absorption and evaporation, would
be required to fill the Bitter Lakes.
The ebb and flow of the tide through
the Canal between the Red Sea and the
Bitter Lakes is, as will have been seen
during the passage through, considerable;
but the clayey character of the
soil prevents its doing much mischief,
and its effect is almost lost in the vast
surface of the Bitter Lakes, on whose
level it has no sensible effect. There
is a slight continuance of the ebb
and flow between the Bitter Lakes and
Lake Timsah, from which point there
is a slight uniform current into the
Mediterranean, often however checked,
and sometimes reversed, by the action
of the north wind.
The line of the Canal through
the Bitter Lakes is marked by buoys
at every 330 yards, forming and avenue
of about 130 feet wide; and at
the northern and southern ends of
the larger Bitter Lake or, as the
French call it, the “Grand Bassin
des Lacs Amers,” is a lighthouse 65
feet high, the tower of iron built on
solid masonry; the light is of the
fourth order. The sandy, gravelly surface
of the soil in the neighbourhood
of the Bitter Lakes is strewn with
shells, exactly corresponding with
those now found in the Red Sea,—a
proof that not only the depression of
the Bitter Lakes, but the whole of the
surrounding country was formerly
submerged. The only vegetation in
the neighbourhood is composed of
tamarisk shrubs, which often form,
with the earth and sand at their roots,
high mounds, and present from a distance
the appearance of trees. To the
E. of the Bitter Lakes they extend
over a large space, and looked so like
a wood from a distance, that the
French gave that part the name of the
“Forêt.”
After passing through the Bitter
Lakes the Canal enters the low ground
lying between them and the heights of
Serapeum. The greater part of this
section, about a mile and a half long,
was excavated à sec. At a short distance

from the W. bank of the Canal
are some remains of ancient works,
and traces of a cutting, which may be
followed for some considerable distance
N. It has been conjectured that this
cutting marks the course of the old
canal of the Pharaohs, and the remains
of the spot where Ptolemy built the
species of primitive lock connecting
it with the Heröopolite Gulf. The
seuil of Serapeum has been so named
from some supposed remains of a temple
of Serapis found about the centre of
the heights. The seuil itself is about
3 miles long, and from 15 to 25 feet
high, composed of sand with layers of
lime and clay, and here and there a
sort of half-formed rock, of shells imbedded
in lime. The removal of the
superficial soil was accomplished here
by a very ingenious and skilful contrivance.
After a shallow channel had
been dug through the heights, a dam
being left at the northern and southern
ends, a cross-cutting was made between
this channel and the Fresh-Water
Canal, distant about 3 miles to the W.
and at about the same level as the
heights. Through this cutting fresh
water was admitted into the shallow
channel, and into a number of slight
depressions that existed on either side;
these last being thus turned into, as it
were, closed basins communicating
with the line of the Canal. At the
same time dredges were brought up
the Canal from Port Said to Ismailia,
thence passed through the locks up
into the Fresh-Water Canal, and floated
along it and down the cross-cutting
into the channel filled with fresh water,
where they commenced dredging at a
height of nearly 20 feet above the level
of the sea. Flat-bottomed, twin-screw
lighters received the dredgings, and
deposited them in the artificially formed
basins already mentioned. When the
dredges had excavated to a depth of
nearly 40 feet, or about 20 feet below
the sea-level, the dam at the northern
end was cut, and the waters of the
Mediterranean mingled with the waters
of the Nile, which had thus been made
to render a novel assistance to the
making of the Canal. The cross-cutting
had of course been dammed up,
and the basins emptied themselves into
the Canal, now fallen considerably
below their base. It was at the southern
end of the Serapeum cutting that the
dredges encountered, two or three days
before the date fixed for the opening
of the Canal, Nov. 17, 1869, some solid
rock, which was with great difficulty
removed sufficiently to allow of the
passage of the vessels that took part in
the opening ceremony.
To the Serapeum heights succeed
those of Toossoom, from 15 to 20 feet
in height, and composed chiefly of
loose sand. It was here that the first
working encampment was formed in the
southern half of the Isthmus in 1859,
and the channel to a depth of 6 feet
below the sea-level cut by the native
contingent. At that time there was
no Fresh-Water Canal to Suez, and
all the water had to be brought from
a long distance on camels' backs. It
was the difficulty of providing water
for the number of men at work here,
that proved to the Company how impossible
it would be to meet the
wants of the still greater number that
must be employed on the sections to
the south of the Bitter Lakes, and
determined it to continue the Fresh-Water
Canal from Nefeesh to Suez.
The remaining work in this cutting
was done by dredges; the material
being carried away by flat-bottomed
lighters, and discharged near the shore
of Lake Timsah. Close to the station
of Toossoom is a Muslim saint's tomb
called Sheykh Hanáydik, near which
may be traced the course of the old
canal; and a little farther to the S.
are a few ruins. The banks gradually
lower after passing Toossoom, and the
view spreads out over tamarisk-tufted
sand-hills, with here and there a creek
opening from the Canal. These creeks
gradually become larger, and announce
the beginning of Lake Timsah, which
soon widens out, with the town of
Ismailia in front of the vessel as it
advances to take up its moorings in the
centre of this inland harbour.
Lake Timsah was formerly, according
to the more generally received
view, a fresh-water lake, receiving by

means of the old canal from the Pelusiac
branch of the Nile at Bubastis
—traces of which have already been
mentioned as apparent in various places
—the overflow of the Nile at the time
of the inundation; and this theory is
supported by the nature of the soil
at the bottom of the lake, by the vegetation
on its banks, and, above all, by
its name in Arabic, Bahr et-Timsáh, the sea of the Crocodile, which seems
to show it to have been a favourite
resort of that fresh - water monster.
Others, however, contend that the bed
of this lake was once in communication
with the Bitter Lakes, thus forming
part of the Heröopolite Gulf, and indeed
of the Red Sea, and that the name
Bahr et - Timsáh was applied, not to
this particular part, but to the whole
gulf, and was given on account of its
shape resembling that of a crocodile.
Both these theories are, no doubt right
in the main. It is probable that at some
remote period the Mediterranean and
Red seas met across what is now the
Isthmus of Suez, and that the first
separation took place when the heights
of El-Guisr, to the north of the present
lake, were upheaved by some subterranean
commotion. This would place
the former limit of the Red Sea where
the lake now is. The same, or more
probably a subsequent, upheaving produce
the heights of Serapeum and
Shaloof, and gradually drained off the
Red Sea to its present limit, leaving
two inland lakes, the northernmost
of which, from its proximity to the
Nile, soon filled with fresh water.
The abandonment of the eastern
branches of the Nile, and the consequent
drying up of the canals in that
part of the Delta, deprived the lake of
its source of nourishment; and, except
when an unusually high inundation
sent a large overplus of water down
the Wády canal, and along the old
course into the lake, it was almost dry.
The depth of the depression was about
22 feet below the sea-level, and the
circumference, judging from the mark
of the old water-line, about 9 miles.
The systematic filling of the hollow
with water from the Mediterranean,
through the channel that had been
already cut from Port Said, began on
the 12th Dec. 1866, and was completed
by the end of April, 1867. A
weir was used, similar to that afterwards
used at the Bitter Lakes, but
of smaller size. Nearly 100 million
cubic metres of water were required to
fill the lake. The remaining 6 feet of
depth required for the channel of the
Canal through the lake were dredged
out; as also was a large area in the
centre, to serve as a harbour. The
course is buoyed as in the Bitter Lakes.
On the W. shore is a lighthouse, and
on the N. is another, slightly to the
E. of the landing-place for the town of
Ismailia.
Ismailia (pronounced Ismaileeyeh), (pop. 3,400). Hotel des Bains, close
to the pier; very comfortable. Hotel
de Paris
, not far from the railway
station. A broad road, lined with trees,
leads up from the landing-place on the
lake, and across the Fresh - Water
Canal to the Quai Méhémet Ali, a
broad avenue bordered on one side
by the Canal and on the other by the
houses of the principal inhabitants.
The town is divided into two parts,
the east and west, by the road leading
from the landing-place to the station.
In the W. part are the hotel, the station,
the landing quays of the Fresh-Water
Canal and large blocks of warehouses
adjoining, and beyond them the
Arab village. There is nothing here
to stop the visitor in his walk. In the
E. part are the houses and offices of the
employés of the Company, the shops,
the palace of the Viceroy, the water-works
for sending water along the line
of the Canal to Port Said, and the
principal streets and squares. In
walking down the Quai Méhémet Ali
from the hotel, the visitor will notice
with interest a sort of Swiss chalet,
the residence of M. de Lesseps, and
the first constructed house at Ismailia
Some way further down is the Viceroy's
palace, run up in a few months for the
purpose of enabling him to entertain
his illustrious visitors at the opening of
the Canal. This was used as a military
hospital, during the English occupation
of Ismailia, in 1882.
At the end of the quay are the
Waterworks. These are worth a visit.
The water reaches them by means
of a small canal derived from the
Fresh-Water Canal at a point beyond
the Arab village. It is carried all
round the town, to which it forms, as
it were, the northern boundary, and
being thickly planted with willows,
the sand from the desert on that side
can neither choke it up, nor pass over
it into the town. Simultaneously with
the completion of the Fresh-Water
Canal to Ismailia and Suez, it was
found necessary to provide Port Said
and the line of works along the
northern portion of the Canal with a
regular supply of water that could be
depended on. Two powerful pumping
engines were accordingly erected
at Ismailia, and a double row of
cast-iron pipes laid the whole length
of the Canal to Port Said, a distance
of 50 miles, through which water is
continuously pumped. At all the
principal stations there are reservoirs
for storing the water, and drinking-fountains,
from which anyone can
draw, while at every 2¼ miles are open
self-filling cisterns for the use of
man and beast. One of the features
of these waterworks are the gardens,
very prettily laid out with cascades
and walks and filled with all kinds
of choice fruits and flowers. Indeed,
the luxuriance and beauty of the
gardens is one of the chief features of
this town, whose site in 1860 was
a barren waste of sand. But it
seems only necessary to pour the waters
of the Nile on the desert to produce
a soil which will grow anything to
perfection.
The walk or ride may be prolonged
to the point where the Fresh-Water
Canal joins by a lock a short branch
from the Maritime Canal, and thence
to the heights of El-Guisr, whence is
a good view of the deep cutting the
Canal there passes through, and a really
magnificent coup d'æil across Lake
Timsah, with the Bitter Lakes and the
heights of Gebel Geneffeh beyond, and
far in the distance the hazy blue outline
of Gebel Attákah on the right, and
the granite peaks of Sinai on the left.
The return ride from El-Guisr may be
made straight across the desert, and
through the industrial part of the
town, where there are some good shops.
The stone used in building the houses
was brought from quarries on the
E. side of the lake called by the
French “les Carriéres des Hyénes,”
Hyena Quarries, from some of these
animals having been found in the
neighbourhood.
The marshes round the W. side
of the lake abound in water-fowl of
various kinds, and gazelles are very
frequently met with in the neighbouring
desert. Any traveller who
is fortunate enough to have an introduction
to one of the chief employés
of the Company at Ismailia
will readily obtain any information as
to sport, and, should he stay long
enough, very probably have an opportunity
given him of joining in a gazelle
hunt. The climate of Ismailia is
extremely dry and temperate; there
being always a fresh breeze from the
lake to moderate the noonday heat,
and the nights, even in summer, are
fresh and cool. The humidity is very
slight, and there is hardly any dust.
Sea-bathing may be enjoyed in the
lake all the year round. The town
is well supplied with articles of food
by the Railway and the Canal, and the
fish, which abound in Lake Timsah,
are finer and better flavoured than
those caught in the Mediterranean.
The traveller may continue his
voyage from Ismailia to Port Said
either in some large steamer on her
way through the Canal, or in the postal
steam-launch which runs daily. Information
as to the hours of departure,
&c., had better be obtained at the
transit office of the Company.
Passing out at the N.E. corner of
Lake Timsah, the Canal enters almost
immediately the heights of El-Guisr.
On the right is seen the entrance of a
small canal leading to the stone quarries
in the Plateau des Hyénes, and
on the left the branch canal which
joins the Maritime Canal to the Fresh-Water
Canal. The difference of level,
17 feet, is adjusted by means of two

locks, one just below Ismailia, and
the other near the upper part of the
town. By means of this connecting
canal between the channel already
dug from Port Said to Lake Timsah
and the Fresh-Water Canal, water
transit between the two seas was begun
in 1865.
The seuil of El Guisr (pronounced
Geersh), 5½ m., is the highest point
in the Isthmus. It is about 6 miles
long, and from 60 to 65 feet above the
level of the sea. The soil is composed
almost entirely of loose sand, interspersed
with a few beds of hard sand
and clay. The upper surface was
removed by the forced contingent of
fellaheen, who, with the primitive
tools common to the Egyptian labourer,
viz., hands for grubbing up the
soil, and baskets for carrying it away,
excavated a channel from 25 to 30 feet
wide, and about 5 feet below the level
of the sea. When they were withdrawn,
the work was continued by M.
Couvreux, who completed the cutting
to its full width, and to a depth of 10
feet below the sea-level by means of
machines of his own invention, called
excavateurs. The excavateur was a
species of locomotive engine, working
behind it a chain of dredge-buckets
on an inclined plane; on reaching the
top of the plane, the buckets opened at
the bottom and discharged their contents
into waggons; these were drawn
by locomotives to the top of the embankment,
along a well-arranged network
of railways. The remaining 16
feet of depth were dredged out in the
ordinary way; the soil being taken
away in screw-lighters and discharged
in the shallows of Lake Timsah. At
the top of the embankment, on the W.
side, is the encampment of El-Guisr,
reached from the Canal by a staircase
of a hundred steps. When the cutting
was in progress, it presented a very
lively and busy scene, being one of
the largest stations on the line, and
arranged with great taste and an eye
to effect. The gardens were a sight
in themselves, and they were entirely
the result of the water pumped from
Ismailia.
On issuing from the heights of El-Guisr,
the Canal runs a short way along
the edge of an off-shoot of Lake Ballah,
and then enters the cutting of El-Ferdane (4½ m.), a sandy promontory
running out into the lake, about 1½ m.
long. This cutting was excavated in
the same manner as that of El-Guisr.
A rather sharp turn now leads into
Lake Ballah , the principal among a
series of shallow lakes, dotted here and
there with sandy tamarisk-tufted islets,
through which the Canal passes
before entering the low sand-hills
of Kantarah. These lakes are more
or less full of water, according to
the time of year; full in the winter
after the inundation, shallow in the
summer.
The small passenger-boats generally
stop long enough at Kantarah, 11 m.,
to admit of refreshment being obtained
at the restaurant. The station is
situated at the highest point of the
chain of low sand-hills which divide
Lake Menzaleh from the smaller inland
lakes. It was one of the principal
caravan stations on the road between
Egypt and Syria, and the name Kantarah,
which in Arabic means a
“bridge” or “ford,” is explained by
its position as the point where the
lakes and shallows that intervene
between the eastern and western desert
are crossed. This road was
once one of the greatest highways
of the old world, and served as
the causeway to succeeding armies of
Egyptians, Assyrians, Persians, Greeks,
Romans, Arabs, and French. The
traveller from Egypt to Syria by way
of El-Areesh and Gaza still follows
this road, and crosses the Canal at
this point by a ferry. Ten miles to
the W. of Kantarah is Defenneh,
whose mounds mark the site of Daphne, the Tahpannes of the Bible. Mr. Petrie
has recently made some interesting
discoveries at Tel Defenneh. He found
a large building of the XXVIth Dynasty,
which is still called “The Palace
of the Jew's daughter,” which seems
connected with the flight of the Jews
to Tahpannes, mentioned in Jeremiah
xliii. The fortress was built by Psametik I.,
and this may have been the
actual “house of Pharaoh” where Jeremiah

prophesied the coming downfall
of Egypt.
1 1/2 m. from Kantarah the Canal
enters Lake Menzaleh , and continues
in a straight line through it for 27 m.
to Port Said. The banks here are but
slightly above the level of the Canal
and the lake, and from the deck of a
big steamer there is an unbounded
view over a wide expanse of lake and
morass, studded here and there with
islets, and at times rendered gay and
brilliant with innumerable flocks of rosy
pelicans, scarlet flamingoes, and snow-white
spoonbills; geese, ducks, herons,
and other birds abound. The whole
of the channel through Lake Menzaleh
was almost entirely excavated by the
dredges, the soil having been in no
instance more than a foot or two above
the level of the lake, and in many
instances below it. Where it was
necessary to remove some surface soil
before there was water enough for the
dredges to float, it was done by the
natives of Lake Menzaleh, a hardy and
peculiar race, whose constant practice
in digging canals, and making embankments
to keep out the inundation,
rendered them peculiarly apt at the
work, especially when it came to
digging under water. The following
account shows their method of proceeding
:— “They place themselves in
files across the channel. The men in
the middle of the file have their feet
and the lower part of their legs in the
water. These men lean forward and
take in their arms large clods of earth,
which they have previously dug up
below the water with a species of pickaxe
called a fass, somewhat resembling
a short, big hoe. The clods are passed
from man to man to the bank, where
other men stand with their backs
turned and their arms crossed behind
them, so as to make a sort of primitive
had. As soon as each of these has
had enough clods piled on his back he
walks off, bent almost double, to the
further side of the bank, and there
opening his arms, lets his load fall
through to the ground. It is unnecessary
to add that this original métier requires the absence of all clothing.”—
O. Ritt, ‘Histoire de l’Isthme de Suez.'
Into the channel thus cut the
dredges were floated. Some of the
inventions in connection with the
working of these dredges deserve
mention. They were not exclusively
employed in this part of the Canal,
but as it was where they were first
tried, and where they did the most
work, it seems the most fitting place
to speak of them. First among them
was the long couloir (long duct), an
iron spout of semi-elliptical form, 230
feet long, 5 1/2 wide, and 2 deep; by
means of which a dredger working in
the centre of the channel could discharge
its contents beyond the bank.
This enormous spout was supported
on an iron framework, which rested
partly on the dredge and partly on a
floating lighter. The dredgings, when
dropped into the upper end of this
spout, were assisted in their progress
down it by water supplied by a rotary
pump, and by an endless chain, to
which were fixed scrapers—large pieces
of wood that fitted the inside of the
spout, and forced on pieces of stone
and clay. By these means the spouts
could deliver their dredgings at almost
a horizontal line, and the water had
the further good effect of reducing the
dredgings to a semi-liquid condition,
and thus causing them to spread
themselves over a larger surface, and
settle down better. The work done
by these long-spouted dredges was
extraordinary: 80,000 cubic yards of
soil a month was the average, but as
much as 120,000 was sometimes accomplished.
When the banks were
too high for the long spouts to be
employed, another ingenious machine,
called an élévateur, was introduced.
This consisted of an inclined plane
running upwards from over the waterline,
and supported on an iron frame,
the lower part of which rested over
the water on a steam float, and the
upper part on a platform moving on
rails along the bank. The plane carried
a tramway, along which ran an
axle on wheels, worked by the engine
of the steam float. From this axle
hung four chains. As soon as a
lighter containing seven huge boxes
filled with dredgings was towed under

the lower part of this élévateur, the
chains hanging from the axle were
hooked to one of the boxes, and the
machine being set in motion the box
was first raised, and then carried along
swinging beneath the axle to the top
of the plane; then, by a self-acting
contrivance, it tilted over and emptied
its contents over the bank. It was
then run down again, dropped into
its place in the lighter, and the
operation repeated with the next box.
No such dredging operations had ever
been undertaken before: those on the
Clyde took 21 years to accomplish,
and the whole amount only equalled
about three and a half times as much
as was here often done in a month.
M. de Lesseps, in one of his lectures,
illustrated the amount of excavation
done in one month—2,763,000 cubic
yards—by the following graphic comparison:—
“I dare say few amongst
you realise what is represented by this
enormous amount of excavation. Were
it placed in the Place Vendôme it
would fill the whole square, and rise
five times higher than the surrounding
houses; or, if laid out between the
Arc de Triomphe and the Place de la
Concorde, it would cover the entire
length and breadth of the Champs
Elysées, a distance equal to a mile
and a quarter, and reach to the top of
the trees on either side.”
The course of the old Pelusiac
branch of the Nile is crossed at Kil,
34, a few miles before reaching Rás
el-Ech
(pronounced Aysh), the next
station to Kantarah. It is a small
islet of oozy mud, whose height has
been raised above the level of the
inundation by dredgings from the
Canal. Not far off to the left in
the lake are the islands of Toonah and Tennes (Tennesus), both with
remains. Some way to the right, beyond
the marshy plain and near the
sea, are some ruins marking the site of
Pelusium.
Nothing of interest occurs to break
the monotonous course of the Canal,
until, bending gradually to the E. and
opening out to a width of nearly 1000
feet, it enters the harbour of Port
Said, and, passing the port and the
town on the left, joins the open sea
beyond the breakwater.
Port Said , 10 m. (pop. about 16,500).
Hôtel des Pays Bas; Hôtel du Louvre;
Hôtel de France.
English Consul,
W. P. Burrell, Esq. There are also
American, French, German, and other
consuls. A railway to connect Port
Said with the rest of Egypt is much
required, and it is difficult to understand
why it has not already been
constructed.
The through steamers between Europe
and the East, of the P. and O. Co.,
the Messageries, the Austrian Lloyd,
the Rubattino, and others, all stop at
Port Said. The steamers of the Messageries,
Austrian Lloyd, Russian,
Steam Navigation and Azizieh Cos.,
between Alexandria, the Syrian Coast,
and Constantinople, call at Port Said,
in 18 hours from Alexandria, and 15
from Jaffa, and generally stay from
8 to 10 hours in the harbour Tickets
with information as to times of sailing
and rates of passage, can be procured
at the offices of the respective
companies in the town; but the traveller
will do well to inform himself on
these points before leaving Cairo or
Alexandria. To the general visitor
Port Said offers few objects of interest
in its present state, and a walk of two
or three hours on shore during the
stay of the steamer will more than
satisfy the curiosity of most people.
The chief interest of the place lies in
its position, and the story of its foundation
and growth.
From the mouth of the Damietta
branch of the Nile to the Gulf of
Pelusium there stretches a low belt of
sand, varying in width from 200 to
300 yards, and serving to separate the
Mediterranean from the waters of the
Lake Menzaleh; though often, when
the lake is full and the waves of the
Mediterranean are high, the two meet
across this slight boundary line. In
the beginning of the month of April
1859, a small body of men, who might
well be called the pioneers of the Suez
Canal, headed by M. Laroche, landed
at that spot of this narrow sandy slip,

which had been chosen as the starting-point
of the Canal from the Mediterranean,
and the site of the city and
port intended ultimately to rival Alexandria.
It owed its selection not to its
being the spot from which the shortest
line across the Isthmus could be drawn
—that would have been the Gulf of
Pelusium—but to its being that point
of the coast to which deep water
approached the nearest. Here 8
metres of water, equal to about 26
feet, the contemplated depth of the
Canal, were found at a distance of less
than 2 miles; at the Gulf of Pelusium
that depth only existed at more than
5 m. from the coast. The spot was
called Port Said, in honour of the
then Viceroy. On the 25th of April
M. de Lesseps, surrounded by 10 or 15
Europeans and some 100 native workmen,
gave the first stroke of the spade
to the future Bosphorus between Asia
and Africa. Hard, indeed, must have
been the life of the first workers on
this desolate strip of sand. The nearest
place from which fresh water could be
procured was Damietta, a distance of
30 m. It was brought thence across
the Lake Menzaleh in Arab boats,
but calms or storms often delayed the
arrival of the looked-for store; sometimes,
indeed, it was altogether lost,
and the powers of endurance of the
little band were sorely tried. After
a time distilling machines were put
up, and in 1863 water was received
through a pipe from the Fresh-Water
Canal, which had been completed to
the centre of the Isthmus.
The first thing to be done at Port
Said was to make the ground on which
to build the future town. This was
done by dredging in the shallows of
the lake close to the belt of sand: the
same operation serving at once to form
an inner port, and to extend the area
and raise the height of the dry land.
When the fellaheen were withdrawn,
and recourse had to machinery for
supplying their place, great impetus
was given to Port Said. It soon became
an enormous workshop. The
huge machines, which were to do the
work hitherto done by hands and
baskets, were brought piece by piece
from France, and put together in long
ranges of sheds erected along the
inner port. In another part sprang up
the works where Messrs. Dussaud were
to make the large concrete blocks
for the construction of the piers of
the harbour; at the same time the
dredging of the harbour was commenced.
Thus sprang up in 10 years, on a site
than which it would have been difficult
to find one more disadvantageous, a
town of nearly 10,000 inhabitants, regularly
laid out in streets and squares,
with docks, quays, churches, hospitals,
mosques, hotels, and all the adjuncts
of a sea-port, and with the most easily
approached and safest harbour along
the coast. Fresh water is supplied
from Ismailia, and a big reservoir,
called the “Château d'Eau,” holding
sufficient for three days' consumption,
provides against a stoppage of the
supply through accident to the pipes.
The central harbour, lying between
the outer port and the Canal is called
the Grand Bassin Ismail. Joining
it on the W. are the Bassin Cherif,
the Bassin des Ateliers, formerly the
busiest place in the town, but now
very nearly deserted, and the Bassin
du Commerce.
The principal part of
the town lies to the N. and W. of the
last named. The best houses are
situated on the Marina, or “Quai
Eugénie,” close to the sea-shore. A
short distance beyond this to the W. is
the Arab village, on the strip of sand
between the sea and the lake.
The outer port is formed by the two
enormous Breakwaters or Moles, already
referred to. That on the western-most
side juts out at right angles to
the shore and perpendicularly to the
line of the Canal, and runs straight
out to sea for a distance of 2726 yards,
and is to be continued still farther;
the eastern mole stands about 1500
yards to the E. of the other, and runs
towards it in a gradually converging line
for 1962 yards. The entrance to the
outer port is thus about a quarter of a
mile wide, and the space enclosed
within it a triangular area of about
550 acres. The depth of water at
the entrance is 30 feet, and the channel

through it to the inner harbour about
300 feet wide and 26 deep. A red
light is placed at the end of the W.
mole, and a green light at the end of
the E. mole.
At the commencement of the W.
mole, or rather on the sea-shore close
to it, is the lighthouse. The tower,
which is nearly 160 feet high, is composed
of a solid mass of concrete. On
the top is the lantern, about 20 feet
high, containing an electric light, flashing
every 20 seconds, and visible at a
distance of 20 miles. Three other
lighthouses of the same height, though
differing in construction, have been
erected along the 125 miles of coast
between Port Said and Alexandria:
one at the entrance to the Damietta
branch of the Nile, with a white light
of the second order, flashing every
minute; another at Boorlos, a fixed
light of the first order; and the third
at Rosetta, with a 10-second revolving
light of the second order.
The moles are built of concrete
blocks. These blocks, each of which
weighs 22 tons, and has a dimension of
12 cubic yards, are composed of sand
and lime mixed with salt water. They
were dropped into the sea from lighters
three at a time, till the water-line was
reached, and then lifted into their
places by cranes. The sand, which
drifts along the coast from the Damietta
mouth of the Nile, has silted
through the western mole, and formed
a considerable bank along its inner
side near the shore end: but its encroachments
are kept under by dredging,
and the bank will in time be itself
a barrier against the silting in. A
similar cause has considerably extended
the shore seaward to the W. of this
mole, especially in the angle formed by
it and the coast. Another bank of
sand has been formed too in the open
sea, a little to the N.E. of the eastern
mole, by the dredgings from the harbour
which were brought out in hoppers
and dropped there.
Port Said no longer presents the
same busy appearance that it did when
it was the headquarters of the engineering
work of the Canal, but the
increasing traffic through the Isthmus
must always impart a certain activity
to the place.
Pelicans, flamingoes, herons, and all
kinds of aquatic fowl, abound in the
shallows of Lake Menzaleh (p. 320),
especially in the months of February,
March, and April; and the sportsman
who is anxious to spend a fews days in
their pursuit may make Port Said his
headquarters, hiring a native boat for
a few days and visiting different parts
of the lake. When the lake is full, in
the winter months there is a regular
service of native boats between Port
Said and Damietta, 36 miles distant

ROUTE 8.
CAIRO TO DAMIETTA AND LAKE MENZALEH ,
BY WATER. ABOUT 165 MILES.

This excursion, which is very pleasant
in the months of February or
March, especially for those who wish
to get good wildfowl-shooting in Lake
Menzaleh, must be made in a dahabeeyeh
(see p. 159). The time taken
to reach Damietta will depend on the
wind, and the stoppages by the way,
but unless there is a strong N. wind
blowing, four or five days to a week
will be sufficient. The railway system
can be joined at various places, as
Benha, Zifteh, Semenhood, Mansoorah,
Talkah, and any of the stations thence
on the line to Damietta. The lake
Menzaleh can also be reached in a
small boat from Mansoorah by the
Bahr es-Sogheiyer (see p. 312). It
will be necessary to hire a native
boat for going on the lake to shoot,
and those who are anxious to make
a good bag should have a small English
gig or punt drawing very little
water.
Starting from Boolak, Embabeh and
Shoobra, 4 m. are passed, and the Barrage,
12 m. (ENVIRONS OF CAIRO,

Exc. IV.), reached, at the head of
the Delta. Here the Nile divides into
the Rosetta and Damietta branches.
Following the latter the first place of
interest is
(E.) Bershoom, 12 m., famous for its
figs; and a little beyond, on the opposite
bank, inland in the Delta, is
Pharaooneeyeh, from which the canal
of Menoof, connecting the two branches
of the Nile derived its name. Four or
five miles lower down is the canal of
Karinayn, or Shibeen, another noble
work. At El-Jáffareeyeh it separates
into two channels, one going to the W.
to Tantah, and the other by Mahallet
el-Kebeer to the sea, which it enters
at the old Sebennytic mouth, and the
Pineptimi ostium, one of the false
mouths of the Nile. The western
channel that goes to Tantah is only
navigable for small craft after January;
but the other is sufficiently deep to
admit boats of 200 ardebs' burthen
the whole year. It is, however, closed
by a bridge and sluices at Santah,
below El-Jáffareeyeh: and here goods
are transferred to smaller boats for
Nabaro, and those places with which
the communication is kept up by other
channels. This is the general principle
of all the large canals of the
Delta, and has been adopted in that
of Moëz, and sometimes in that of
Alexandria.
(E.) Benha el-Assal, 20 m. [Rly. to
Cairo, Alexandria, Zagazig, Ismailia,
Suez, &c., see p. 153.]
Immediately beyond the town is the
rly. bridge, and a little below that the
entrance to the canal of Moëz, which
takes the water to Zagazig, and thence
to the Lake Menzaleh by the old Tanitic
channel.
We next pass
(W.) Mit Bereh, 7 m., and
(E.) Sahráght, 10 m., the site of
Natho, and called in Coptic Nathôpi. The isle of Natho was on the other side
of the Nile.
(E.) Mit Ghumr, 6 m., is opposite to
(W.) Zifteh. [Rly. to Tantah, and
thence to Cairo and Alexandria, and
to Talkah (Mansoorah) and Damietta.]
(E.) Mit Damees is the Coptic Pitemsisôt.
Benneh
, in Coptic, Pineban, or
Penouan
, has the mounds of an old
town, but no remains, and is now a
small village.
Abooseer is larger, and has more extensive
mounds, marking the site of
Busiris. It is called by the Copts
Bosiri. The mounds extend beyond
the village to the westward, and a
short distance beyond is another
mound, said to have belonged to the
old town.
(W.) Semenhood, 25 m. [Rly. to
Tantah and to Talkah and Damietta],
is a place of some size (pop. 11,500),
with the usual bazaars of the large
towns of Egypt, and famous for its
pottery, which is sent to Cairo. Here
are the mounds of Sebennytus, the
Egyptian Seb-en-nooti, and Coptic
Gemnouti. It was the capital of the
Sebennyte home, in which Manetho
the historian is said to have been born.
(E.) Weesh, 6 m. On the opposite
side, about 1 1/2 m. from the river, are
the ruins of
Bebayt el-Hágar, the Egyptian
Hebait or Pa-Hebait, the Coptic Naisi,
and the Roman Iseum. The Egyptian
name, which meant “the city of the
assembly,” has been preserved in the
name Bebayt, with the affix El-Hágar,
“of the stone,” from its numerous
stone remains.
The remains are very interesting,
and larger than in any other town
of the Delta. They are inferior in
style to those of Sân (Tanis), being
of a Ptolemaic time; but the number
of sculptured blocks, and the beauty of
the granite used in this temple, are
remarkable; and if Bebayt does not
boast the number of obelisks, which
must have had a very grand effect at
Tanis, it has the merit of possessing
rich and elaborate sculptures. To the
antiquary it is particularly interesting,
from its presenting the name of the
deity worshipped there, and that of the
ancient town. Isis was evidently the
divinity of the city, and it was from
this that the Greeks and Romans gave
it the name of Ision or Iseum.
The temple, like many others in
Egypt, stood in an extensive square
about 1500 by 1000 ft., surrounded by
a crude-brick wall, doubtless with a

stone gateway; which was the temenos or sacred enclosure, and was planted
with trees, as Herodotus informs us in
describing that of Bubastis. To this
might be applied the name of the grove denounced in the Bible as an abomination
to the God of Israel (Exod. xxxiv.
13; Deut. xii. 3; 2 Kings xvii. 10).
The temple itself was about 400 ft.
long, or 600 to the outer vestibule, by
about 200 in breadth, and built of
granite, some red, some grey, of a
very beautiful quality, and covered
with sculptures, in intaglio and in
relief. Many of the blocks are of very
great size; and though the temple
has been entirely destroyed, and the
broken stones forcibly torn from their
places, and thrown in the greatest
confusion one upon the other, it is
easy to form an idea of its former
magnificence. It is entirely of granite
—walls, columns, roofs, and doorways;
affording a striking instance of the
use of this stone in the Delta; for
though the building is so large, no
block of the ordinary kinds employed
in Upper Egypt has here been admitted.
The whole appears to have
been erected by Ptolemy Philadelphus,
whose name occurs in all the dedications,
and who alone is seen presenting
offerings to the gods. The principal
divinities are Isis (the deity of
the place, who has always the title
“Lady of Hebai-t”), Osiris (who frequently
accompanies her, and is generally
called “Lord of Hebai-t”),
Anubis, Sebek, or Savak (the crocodile-headed
god), and some others whose
legends are lost, and who may possibly
be characters of Osiris.
Unfortunately it has been so completely
destroyed that the plan cannot
easily be recognised; and such is the
mass of broken blocks, that you can
go down amongst them to the depth
of 12 and 15 ft.; below which are the
numerous abodes of jackals, hares,
and other animals, who alone rejoice
in the ruinous state to which this
building has been reduced. Nothing
seems to be in its original position.
The doorways are seen as well as
parts of cornices, ceilings, architraves,
and walls, but all in confusion, and
hurled from their places; and one is
surprised at the force and labour that
must have been used for the destruction
of this once splendid building.
The ceilings have been studded with
the usual five-pointed Egyptian stars.
The cornices have the Egyptian triglyphs with the ovals of the king between
them: but in some the name of
“Isis, the beautiful mother-goddess,”
is substituted for the royal prenomen,
and is accompanied by the nomen of
Ptolemy.
On one of the walls, about the
centre of the temple, is represented
the sacred boat, or ark, of Isis; and
in the shrine it bears the “Lady of
Hebai-t,” seated between two figures
of goddesses, like the Jewish Cherubim,
who seem to protect her with
their wings. They occur in two compartments,
one over the other, at the
centre of the shrine; and these figures
were doubtless the holy and unseen
contents of the sacred repository, which
no profane eye was permitted to behold,
and which were generally covered
with a veil. In the upper one
Isis is seated on a lotus-flower, and
the two figures are standing; in the
other all three are seated, and below
are four kneeling figures, one with
a man's, the other three with jackals'
heads, beating their breasts. At either
end of the boat is the head of the
goddess, and the legend above shows
it to have belonged to her. The king
stands before it, presenting an offering
of incense to Isis. The stone has been
broken, and part of the picture has
been taken away; but on a fragment
below, that appears to have belonged
to it, is represented a sledge on trucks,
with the usual ring attached to the
end for drawing it into the sêkos, of
which this doubtless marks the site.
It was probably one of those isolated
sanctuaries that stood near the centre
of the naos, or body of the temple.
The sculptures on some portions of
the building are in relief,—an unusual
mode of sculpturing granite, which
shows the great expense and labour
bestowed on the temple of the goddess,
and the importance of her temple.
That it was very handsome is evident;

and to it might be applied the remark
made by Herodotus respecting the
temple of Bubastis—that many were
larger, but few so beautiful. Besides
the unusual mode of sculpturing granite
in relief, the size of some of the
hieroglyphics is remarkable, being no
less than 14 in. long, and all wrought
with great care. The cornices varied
in different parts of the building; and
one, perhaps of the wall of the sêkos itself, has the heads of Isis surmounted
by a shrine alternating with the oval
of the king, in which, however, the
hieroglyphics have not been inserted.
On the lower compartment of the
walls, in this part of the temple, are
traces of the usual figures of the god
Nilus in procession, intended to represent
the nomes of Egypt. Between
each are water-plants, and the figures
of the god have a cluster of those of
the upper and of the lower country,
alternately, on their heads. Not far
from this are the capitals of large
columns, in the form of Isis' heads,
bearing a shrine, like those of Denderah.
There appears to be a very great
variety in the sculptures, which mostly
represent offerings to Isis and the contemplar
deities, as in other Ptolemaic
buildings; and in one place the hawk-headed
Hor-Hat conducts the king into
the presence of the goddess of the
temple. But the battle-scenes and
grand religious processions of old
times are wanting here, as in other
temples of a Ptolemaic and Roman
epoch; and though the sculptures are
rich and highly finished, they are
deficient in the elegance of a Pharaonic
age,—the fault of all Greco-Egyptian
sculpture, and one which strikes every
eye accustomed to monuments erected
before the decadence of art in Egypt.
The modern village stands to the
N.W., a little beyond the enclosure of
the temenos; and near it is a lake containing
water all the year, except after
unusually low inundations, which was
probably once attached to the temple,
like those of Karnak and other places.
Inland from Bebayt el-Hágar is
Benoob, which occupies the site of
Onuphis.
Talkah, 7 m. [Rly. to Tantah, and
to Damietta]. Immediately opposite is
Mansoorah [Rly. to Aboo Kebeer
and thence to Salaheeyeh (p. 328), or
to Zagazig (p. 283)], is a large town
of 27,000 Inhab., and capital of the
province of Dakaleeyeh.
Mansoorah was founded by Melek
el-Kámel in 1221, as Aboolfeda states,
at the time of the siege of Damietta, to
serve as a point d'appui, and was called
Mansoorah, “the Victorious,” from the
defeat of the Crusaders in that spot, at
the time the city was building. It was
there that Louis IX. was imprisoned,
after his disastrous retreat and capture
in 1250. The spot where the Crusaders
pitched their tents in 1221 and 1250
is just opposite the modern palace.
Cotton is the principal article of trade
at Mansoorah, and there are several
cotton-gin factories in the town;
cotton and linen stuffs, sail-cloth, &c.,
are also made there.
Mansoorah has no ruins, and is not
supposed to occupy the site of any
ancient city. To the S. of the town
is the entrance to the Canal of Menzaleh,
or, as it is called by the natives,
the Bahr es-Sogheiyer, “Little River,”
leading by Ashmoon into Lake Menzaleh.
It is supposed to follow the
course of the old Mendesian branch of
the Nile. An excursion down it to
Lake Menzaleh will take 3 days. From
Menzaleh, or Matereeyeh, Damietta
can be reached in about 6 hrs.

[MANSOORAH BY THE BAHR ES SOGHETYER,
OR CANAL OF MENZALEH, TO
MENZALEH AND THE LAKE.

The Canal of Menzaleh, or of Ashmoon,
more commonly called the Bahr
es-Sogheiyer
, though containing water
the whole year, is only navigable the
whole way during the winter and
early spring. In its widest part near
Mansoorah it is only 70 or 80 ft. broad,
and below Ashmoon it is much narrower.
Boats cannot pass into it from
the Nile, and it is necessary to hire
one from among those to be found on it

at Mansoorah; the charge will be about
1l. a day. If there are not more than
one or two persons however, the sandal
of the dahabeeyeh, if tolerably large
and provided with a sail, will hold
all that is necessary for the excursion,
a tent included for sleeping in at
night: and this sandal can be carried
from the river to the canal. But a
larger boat is better, as the canal being
very winding and the banks high, it is
difficult for a boat low in the water to
catch any wind. The excursion is not
one of any great interest, and Rte. 10
is an easier way of reaching Lake Menzaleh.
Leaving Mansoorah the country on
the banks of the canal is very rich and
fertile. Especially remarkable is the
number of trees—oaks, sycamore-figs,
weeping and common willows, and
mulberry trees, recently planted.
Numerous sakeeyehs line the banks,
and a carefully arranged system of
tiny ditches carries the water inland.
The first large village is
Mahallet Dámneh. About 8 m.
inland to the S. are the ruins of
Tel-et-Tinei, occupying the site of
Thmuis ; which is at once pointed out
by its Arabic name, as well as by the
Coptic Thmoui. Some suppose it to
be the same as Leontopolis. A large
monolith is still standing on the site
of Thmuis. It is of granite, and measures
21 ft. 9 in. high, 13 ft. broad,
and 11 ft. 7 in. deep; and within, it
is 19 ft. 3 in. high, 8 ft. broad, and
8 ft. 3 in. deep. In the hieroglyphics
is the prenomen of Amasis, and mention
seems to be made of the gods
Neph and Moui. Josephus says that
Titus, on his way from Alexandria to
Judæa, passed by Thmuis. He went
by land to Nicopolis, and then, putting
his troops on board long ships, went
up the Nile by the Mendesian province
to the city of Thmuis.
About 5 m. S.W. by S. of Ashmoon
is Mit-Fáres, whose mounds indicate
the site of an old town.
Ashmoon, 9 1/2 m. or, as Aboolfeda
writes it, Oshmoom,—Oshmoom-Tanáh,
or Oshmoom-er-Roo-mán (“of the
pomegranates”),—was in his time a
large city, with bazaars, baths, and
large mosques, and the capital of the
Dakaleeyeh and Bashmoor provinces.
It is supposed to occupy the site of
Mendes , distant from Mansoorah 11 m.,
but now presents nothing of interest.
The only remains are of Roman time,
consisting of a few small broken
columns, fragments of granite, burnt
bricks, and pottery, amidst mounds of
some extent but of no great height.
The canal below Ashmoon becomes
very narrow, and the trees often meet
above it. Mit-en-Nasárah probably
occupies the site of an ancient town,
judging from its distinctive appellation
of the Christians.
Berembál el-Kebeer, 11 m., is a
large village, with fine trees. The
stream here is not 20 yards wide.
Miniet-Silsecl was formerly of much
greater extent and more flourishing
than at present, as the style of its
houses, its broken minarets, and its
brick walls attest; and Gemeleeyeh is
distinguished from afar by its lofty
minaret.
On the canal grow numerous reeds
and water-plants, among which is a
Cyperus. It is found principally on
the N. bank, where it has the benefit
of the sun, and only at the eastern part
of the canal. It has been mistaken
for the papyrus, and has led to the
belief that this last grows in the
vicinity of the lake Menzaleh. In
Arabic it is called dus, a name given
also to the Cyperus dives; and both
are used for making baskets and an
ordinary kind of mat.
The principal produce grown in the
immediate neighbourhood of the canal
is flax, cotton, simsim, rice, &c.; thene
is comparatively little wheat, the land
of the Delta in general being considered
inferior as a corn-growing
country to Upper Egypt. In consequence
wheat is much dearer to the N.
than to the S. of Cairo.
Menzaleh, 12 m.(pop. 8400), stands on
the canal, about 12 m. from its entrance
into the lake. It is supposed to occupy
the site of Panephysis; and near the
point of land projecting to the N. into
the lake some have placed Papremis,
the City of Mars. Menzaleh has no
remains. It is a busy, lively-looking

place, and with its minaretted mosques,
bazaars, and some respectable houses,
presents an appearance little expected
in such an out-of-the-way place. The
canal, which contributes so much to
its importance, and to its very existence
as a town, also gives it a cheerful
aspect. There is a barrier which
renders it necessary to hire another
boat in order to go on to Lake Menzaleh.
In the autumn there is some
fever at Menzaleh, but in winter it is
perfectly healthy, and at all times
more so than Damietta. Its principal
trade is in rice and fish. The former
is of good quality, little inferior to
that of Damietta and of Kafr el
Bateékh.
The fresh-water fish mostly come
from the different branches of the
Moëz Canal leading from Zagazig to
the lake; the salt-water kinds being
brought from Matareeyeh.
The canal runs into the lake 4 miles
below Menzaleh. Matareeyeh can be
reached either by land or by boat
down to the mouth of the canal and
thence over the lake. For Matareeyeh
and Lake Menzaleh see Rte. 10.]
The first village of any importance
after leaving Mansoorah is
(W.) Shirbeen, 22 m. [Rly. station
on the Damietta and Tantah line.] We
next reach
(E.) Faresoor, 22 m., and then
(E.) Damietta , Arabic Damiat, 12 m.
[Rly. terminus.] There is a small
Inn, kept by a Frenchman: and rooms
can be had at a café kept by a Greek.
British Vice-Consul, H. Main, Esq.
The town is one of the largest in
Egypt, with a population of 34,000.
It was once famous as the principal
emporium on this side of the Delta,
but has sunk in importance, in proportion
as Alexandria has increased, and
now only carries on a little commerce
with Syria and Greece. A project has
been made to connect the Nile at
Damietta with the sea by a canal, and
if this is done the trade might again
increase. Up to the present, however,
the Egyptian Government have not
given the scheme any encouragement.
Its rice and fisheries, however,
enable it to enjoy a lucrative trade
with the interior. Its manufactures of
leather and striped cloths, which last,
when imported into Europe, received
from it the name of dimity, no longer
exist. The houses are well built,
though inferior to those of Rosetta.
Damietta is known in the history of
the Crusaders as the bulwark of Egypt
on that side, and its capture was always
looked upon as the most important
object in their expeditions against
that country. It was captured by
the French under Louis IX. in 1249.
Aboolfeda says “it stood on the shore,
where the river runs into the sea;
until the danger to which it was
exposed, from the Franks, induced the
Egyptian khalifs to change its position;
and the modern town was founded
higher up the Nile, about 5 m. farther
from the sea.” According to Aboolfeda,
the old Damietta was destroyed,
and the inhabitants were transferred to
the village of Menshecyeh, which was
built in its stead, and which afterwards
succeeded to the importance and name
of the ancient town; and Michaelis,
on the authority of Niebuhr, says Mensheeyeh
is the name of one of the
squares, or places, of the modern
Damietta. The time of this change of
position, and the destruction of the
old town, are fixed by Aboolfeda in
the year of the Hégira 648 (A.D. 1251).
The old Damietta had been walled
round and fortified by Motawúkkel,
the tenth of the Abbaside khalifs
(about A.D. 850); and the new town
was built by Baybers, the fourth
sultan of the Baharite Memlooks.
The ancient name of the original
Damietta was Tamiáthis, and the
many antique columns and blocks
found in the present town have probably
been brought from its ruins.
They are principally in the mosques:
and on a slab used for the ablutions of
the faithful, in the mosque of Abooláta
(a short way outside the town, on the
E.), is a Greek inscription with the
name of Tennesus.
The Boghaz, or mouth of the Nile
where it joins the sea, is some little
distance from Damietta. Damietta is

perhaps the best headquarters for
shooting on Lake Menzaleh.

ROUTE 9.
CAIRO TO DAMIETTA BY RAIL.

(α). Viâ Zagazig and Mansoorah-Talkah,
about 133 miles.
(β). Viâ Tantah, about 125 miles.
(α). This is the longer route of the
two, and cannot indeed be done in one
day. From Cairo to Mansoorah is
about 5 hrs.; there the river has to
be crossed to Talkah, and thence to
Damietta is from 2 to 2 1/2 hrs.
For route from Cairo to Zagazig,
see Rte. 7.
Leaving Zagazig, the line traverses
a fertile district to Heheeyeh Stat.,
8 m., on the banks of the Moëz Canal.
Some distance farther on are the ruins
of
Harbayt, the ancient Pharbæthus,
and the capital of a nome, to which
it gave its name, between 12 and
13 m. to the N.E. of Bubastis. It
presents nothing to repay the trouble
of a visit, and is of far less extent than
the capital of the adjoining nome.
The only stone remains are shafts of
red granite columns of Roman time,
and fragments of fine grey granite,
apparently of an altar, and part of a
statue; which, with mounds and crude-brick
ruins, are all that remain of the
city. It stood on the Tanitic branch,
and was a town of some consequence
till a late time, and an episcopal see
under the Lower Empire. It is still
occupied in part by the modern village,
which has retained the ancient
name.
Shortly after passing Harbayt, we
reach
Aboo Kebeer Stat., 6 m. There is
a branch line from here to Salaheeyeh passing by Tel Phaoos, the ancient
Phacusa, whence Sân may be reached
in a boat (see Rte. 10).
El Booka Stat., 3 m. On the main
branch of the Mcëz Canal leading to
Sân. Boats may be hired here for
Sân (see Rte. 10).
Aboo Shekoo; Stat., 6 1/2 m. The village
is about 1/2 m. from the station,
which is on the E. bank of one of the
large canals running from Zagazig to
Sân, all of them branches of the main
Moëz Canal. The Menzaleh fishermen
use this canal principally for bringing
up their fish from the lake; at Aboo
Shekook it is transferred to the railway,
and sent to Cairo and other
towns. Boats may also be hired here
for Sân (see Rte. 10).
Sembellawein Stat., 9 m. Not far
off to the S. are the ruins of Tel-el-Tmei,
the ancient Thmuis (see Rte. 8).
Mansoorah Terminus Stat., 13 1/4 m.
(see Rte. 8)
The traveller who arrives at Mansoorah
by rail, and wishes to visit the
ruins of Bebayt el-Hágar (see Rte. 8),
can do so by hiring a donkey at Mansoorah,
and riding up the right bank
of the Nile for about 2 m. till the first
ferry is reached. Cross the river here
to a village on the opposite side, and
ride through it, and along the Tantah
and Talkah railway for about 3 m.;
then turn to the right, and a mile
farther in a W. direction are the
mounds of the old town. A change in
the road may be made coming back,
by riding straight from the ruins to
the river, crossing at what is the
second ferry above Mansoorah, and
then continuing along the river-bank.
This is perhaps the pleasanter way of
the two. This excursion will require
about 6 or 7 hours.
The traveller must hire a ferry-boat
for crossing the river from Mansoorah
to Talkah.
There is nothing of interest between
Talkah and Damietta. The names of
the intermediate stations will be found
below.
(β). This is the shortest and most
convenient route, and may be done in
one day. From Cairo to Tantah is 2
to 3 hrs., and thence to Damietta 4 1/2 to
5 hrs.
For the route between Cairo to
Tantah, see Rte. 6.
After leaving Tantah, the train
reaches
Mahallet Rokh Stat., 10 m. [Railway
to Zifteh (p. 310), passing by
Bedrasheeyeh and Sontah, 23 1/2 m. And
to Dessook (p. 146), passing by Kotoor,
Neshart , and Shabbás, 39 m.].
Mahallet el-Kebeer Stat., 6 1/2 m. A
large town, with good houses and a
busy and numerous population.
  • (Rte. 8.)
    • Semenhood Stat., 4 1/2 m.
    • Talkah Stat., 12 m.
    • Shirbeen Stat., 15 m.
    • Kafr Terrash Stat., 8 m.
    • Damietta Stat., 16 m.

ROUTE 10.
CAIRO TO SAN, THE ANCIENT TANIS ,
AND LAKE MENZALEH BY RAIL AND
WATER, VIA ZAGAZIG.

Preliminary Hints.—The best way
is to take the train to Facous and go
by camel or donkey from thence to
Sân.
This excursion should be made not
later than February, as after that
month the canals are low, and often
dammed up a few miles from their
mouth to keep the water for irrigation.
Those who wish to be comfortable had
better take tents, beds, &c., with them,
as the boats on these canals have no
sleeping accommodation, are very dirty
and stink of fish. Some provisions too
should be taken, as milk, eggs, and
chickens are the only things procurable
at the villages on the canals. But each
traveller will make such arrangements
as desire for comfort may require.
There are 3 or 4 routes to choose
from in going from Zagazig to Sân.
1. By rail to Facous, and thence by
boat. 2. By rail to El-Booha, and
thence by boat: and 3. By rail to
Aboo Shekook, and thence by boat.
All these stations are situated on
canals leading from Zagazig to Sân.
Formerly it was possible to go the
whole way from Zagazig by one of
these canals, but now there are bridges
and sluices at different points which
prevent the passage of anything but
quite small rowing - boats. Inquiry
had better be made at Zagazig as to
which of the above three roads should
be chosen, as some alterations in the
canals, or other cause, may make one
preferable to the other. The best way
for those who intend to take tents,
&c., is to send a servant on a day
or two before; he can then secure a
boat, and have it ready. In winter
there are generally plenty coming up
from the lake. They are large and
roomy, but dirty. There is a small
attempt at shelter in the bows, where
a portion is covered in by a piece of
matting. One boat will carry tents,
servants, donkeys, baggage, &c. The
hire of a boat to Sân from any one of
the three places named above will be
from 16s. to 1l., which, with the same
amount added on for Government tax,
will make the whole cost from 30s. to
2l.; and the same for a boat back
from Sân. It will take 6 or 7 hours to
go, and 10 or 12 to come back, unless
the wind is particularly favourable or
adverse. There is plenty of wild-fowl shooting
during the winter and early
spring in the neighbourhood of Sân,
but the birds are very shy and difficult
of approach. It is easier to get at
them in Lake Menzaleh, where in a
small boat you may often sail up quite
close to them. In some parts of the
lake the shooting is farmed out, and
the birds are taken in nets in considerable
numbers.
For a description of the route as
far as Aboo Kebeer, Facous, El-Booha,
or Aboo Shekook, see Route 9 (α).
Sân, a fishing village on the E.
bank of the canal, is a dreary place.
The inhabitants are entirely occupied
in fishing. Twice in a week, on Tuesdays
and Fridays, the fish are sold
by auction, people coming with their
camels and donkeys from the interior
to buy. There is no good camping-ground
near the village. The best
place is close to the ruins, the only

objection being that it is some little
way from the canal, whence you must
draw your water supply; but at any
rate you are free from noise and dirt.
Mr. Petrie has made a very close
examination of the ruins of Tanis for
the Egyptian Exploration Fund, and
the results of his excavations have
been published at the expense of the
Fund.
History of Tanis. — The city of
Zoan or Tanis , as it was afterwards
called by the Greeks, was one of
the oldest and most considerable
in the Delta. Its remote antiquity
is indicated by the passage in the
Bible (Numb. xiii. 22), which says
that “Hebron was built seven years
before Zoan.” The sanctuary of the
great temple dates back to the VIth
Dynasty, at which time the name of
the town is conjectured to have been
Ha-awar or Pa-awar, perhaps the
Avaris of Manetho. The names of
kings of the XIIth and XIIIth Dynasties,
Amenemhat I., Osirtasen I. and II.
and others, found on colossi and other
monuments discovered at Sân, and now
in the Museum at Boolak, prove the
existence and importance of the city at
that epoch. Soon after this it suffered
with the rest of the North of Egypt
from the invasion of the Shepherds of
Hysos, as they were called by Manetho;
but it rose into importance again
under the rule of the kings of the
XVIIth Dynasty, the descendants of
these invading Hyksos, who, as the
monuments found at Sân, and now in
the Boolak Museum, prove, had adopted
Egyptian customs, manners, and religion.
It is probable, says Mariette
Pasha, whose discoveries at Tanis have
thrown great light on this epoch of
Egyptian history, that it was during
the reign of one of these pastor kings
reigning at Memphis that Joseph was
sold into Egypt, and the story told
in the Bible was enacted. The
Pharaoh whom Joseph served was not
a pure-born Egyptian, but of foreign
origin and shepherd descent like himself;
and his conduct to him is on this
supposition the more easily explained.
Amosis the 1st king of the XVIIIth
Dynasty, of pure Theban blood, drove
out the greater part of the Hyksos,
and, while suffering a large colony of
them to remain, reduced the importance
of Zoan, which had been their
border fortress. Under the XIXth
Dynasty a different policy was pursued,
and the monuments show us Rameses
II. restoring the magnificence of the
temples, and adopting the founder of
the Hyksos dynasty as an ancestor.
The reign of his son and successor
Meneptah, the “Pharaoh who knew
not Joseph,” of whom a statue found
at Sân is now in the Boolak Museum,
is an interesting stage in the history of
the city, for we read in Ps. lxxviii. 12,
43, that the wonders and miracles
done by Moses, which ended in the
deliverance of the Israelites, were
wrought in “the field of Zoan.” Indeed
the latest researches of Herr
Brugsch lead him to the conclusion
that Sân marks the site of Rameses,
the point from which the Israelites
started on their wanderings.
Under the XXIst Dynasty Zoan, or,
as it is best known under its Greek
name, Tanis , became the nominal
capital of Egypt, and gave its name
to the dynasty which Manetho calls
Tanite, and also to the branch of the
river on which it stood. Various
remains prove that under this dynasty
the city and temples were restored
and beautified. During the period
extending from the XXIInd to the
XXVIth Dynasty Tanis was a city of
great importance, and indeed Mariette
again gives the name of Tanite to the
XXIIIrd Dynasty. That towards the
end of this period (cir. 700 B.C.) it was
considered as the capital city of the
Delta may be inferred from Is. xix. 11,
13, where “the princes of Zoan” and
“the princes of Noph” (Memphis) are
spoken of as though those two cities
were the principal in Egypt; and
again another passage, Is. xxx. 4,
speaks of the princes (of Egypt) as
being “at Zoan.” Ezekiel, on the
occasion of the invasion of Egypt by
Nebuchadnezzar (cir. 600 B.C.), prophesies
its downfall, and says that
“fire” shall be set “in Zoan.” The
importance of Tanis began to decline
under the XXVIth Dynasty, and

Amosis, by directing the whole trade
of the Mediterranean to Naucratis and
Sais, ruined the towns in the eastern
half of the Delta. According to Mr.
Petrie, the great temple went finally
to ruin when Sais became the capital
of the Delta, though perhaps its deathblow
was given by the Assyrian conquest
and pillage in the latter part
of the reign of Tirhaka. During the
Greek period, Tanis again became a
town of importance, and Mr. Petrie
found some most interesting domestic
relics of this period, and also of the
Roman times. In Strabo's time it was
still a large town, but according to
Josephus it had dwindled in the age of
Titus to an insignificant place. The
utter ruin and destruction of its
temples is, however, probably due to
the fanatical outburst against the pagan
monuments that followed the edict of
Theodosius.
Ruins.—At the present day the scene
of desolation, round what were the remaining
ruins prove to have been a
most splendid city, is complete. The
“field” of Zoan is now a barren
waste; a canal passes through it without
being able to fertilize the soil;
“fire” has been set “in Zoan”; and
one of the principal capitals or royal
abodes of the Pharaohs is now the
habitation of fishermen, the resort of
wild beasts, and infested with reptiles
and malignant fevers. “Many,” says
Mr. Macgregor, “as are the celebrated
ruins I have seen, I do not recollect
any that impressed me so deeply with
the sense of fallen and deserted magnificence.”
The mounds which mark the site of
this ancient town are remarkable for
their height and extent, reaching as
they do upwards of a mile from N. to S.,
and nearly 3/4 of a mile from E. to W.
The area in which the sacred enclosure
of the temple stood is about 1500 ft. by
1250, surrounded by mounds of fallen
houses, as at Bubastis, whose increased
elevation above the site of the
temple was doubtless attributable to
the same cause—the frequent change
in the level of the houses to protect
them from the inundation, and the
unaltered position of the sacred buildings.
The enclosure or temenos surrounding
the temple is 1000 ft. long
by about 700 broad, not placed in the
centre of this area, but one-third more
to the northward; while the temple
itself lies exactly at an equal distance
from the northern and southern line
of houses—one of the numerous instances
of Egyptian symmetrophobia.
The enclosure is of crude brick; and
a short way to the E. of the centre, on
its northern side, is a gateway of
granite and fine gritstone bearing the
name of Rameses II.; to whom the
temple was indebted for its numerous
obelisks, and the greater part of the
sculptures that adorned it.
From the wall of the enclosure to
the two front obelisks is 100ft.; 150
beyond which, going towards the naos,
are fragments of columns, and probably
of two other obelisks, covering an
area of 50 ft; beyond these, at a distance
of 120 ft., are several fragments
of sculptured walls, two other obelisks,
and two black statues, extending over
a space of 30 ft.; and after going
100 ft. farther you come to two other
obelisks; and then two others 86 ft.
beyond them; and again, at a distance
of 164 ft., two other large obelisks,
from which to the naos front is 150 ft.
Though in a very ruinous condition,
the fragments of walls, columns, and
fallen obelisks sufficiently attest the
former splendour of this building;
and the number of obelisks, evidently
10, if not 12, is unparalleled in any
Egyptian temple. They are all of the
time of Rameses II.; some with only
one, others with two lines of hieroglyphics.
The columns had the papyrusbud
capital; and their appearance, as
well as the walls bearing the figures of
deities, seems to prove that some, at
least, of the obelisks stood in courts or
vestibules, forming approaches to the
naos. The obelisks vary in size: some
have a mean diameter of about 5 ft.,
and when entire may have been from
50 to 60 feet high; and those at the
lower extremity of the avenue, farthest
from the naos, measured about 33 ft.
Some of the obelisks are of dark, others
of light red granite, which might
appear to have a bad effect, if we did

not recollect that the Egyptians
painted their monuments, sometimes
even when of granite.
The sanctuary, or naos, bears, as has
been said, the name of a king of the
VIth Dynasty. The other principal
names found on the monumental remains
belonging to, or forming part of,
the temple, are Osirtasen I., II., and
III., Rameses II., Meneptah, and
Tirhakah. Outside the enclosure to
the E. are two granite columns which
formed part of another temple, built
like the former entirely of granite.
These columns are 2 ft. 8 in. mean
diameter, and nearly 23 ft. high without
the dado, and have palm-capitals
of beautiful style. They bear the
name of Rameses II., by whom the
temple was built. In some places the
name of Rameses has been effaced and
that of Osorkon, a king of the XXIInd
Dynasty, substituted. Nearly 1/2 a mile
from the great temple, in the direction
of S.E. by S., are several large round
blocks of granite, placed on the ground
in two parallel lines, so as to form an
avenue. They have no foundation,
and this circumstance, together with
the complete absence of any vestiges
of the plan of a building beyond them,
seems to preclude the possibility of
their having served as an approach to
another temple. A fragment of basalt,
bearing the name of a Ptolemy, has
been found near them.
The principal divinities worshipped
at Tanis where Ptah, Amen, and the
god Set, or Sutekh, an Asiatic divinity
introduced by the Hyksos, but subsequently
clothed by them with the
attributes of the Egyptian sun-god,
and worshipped under the forms Ra,
Armachis, Horus, &c.
The excavations of M. Mariette and
Mr. Petrie at Sân have thrown a good
deal of light on that more than usually
obscure part of Egyptian history,
known as the Period of the Hyksos or
Shepherds. Many of the monuments
found seem to show that however
disastrous the first invasion of these
Asiatics may have been, they subsequently
became peaceably settled in
the country, and adopted the language,
customs, and religion of those they had
conquered. Statues and sphinxes, unmistakably
belonging to the Hyksos
period, have the legends on them
written in the Egyptian language, and
the name of the Hyksos king enclosed
in an oval, and with the official
Egyptian titles. In the features of
the magnificent sphinx which is in
the Boolak Museum, Mariette traces
a great resemblance to those of the
people living on the borders of Lake
Menzaleh at the present day: round
angular face, small eyes, flat nose,
supercilious mouth, differing entirely
from the Egyptian type, and showing
evident signs of a Semitic origin. The
trilingual stone, similar in character to
the Rosetta Stone, found at Sân in
1865, is now in the same Museum.
A good general view of the ruins
and the surrounding country may be
obtained from the highest mound, on
which is a sheykh's tomb. It has
been thus described:—”The horizon is
nearly a straight line on every side;
and looking west, the tract before us
is a black rich loam, without fences or
towns, and with only a dozen trees in
sight. This is ‘The Field of Zoan.’
Behind is a glimmer of silver light on
the far-away shore of Lake Menzaleh.
Across the level foreground winds
most gracefully the Mushra (canal?).
But between that winding river (canal)
and the mound we look from, there is,
lying bare and gaunt, in stark and
silent devastation, one of the grandest
and oldest ruins in the world. It is
deep in the middle of an enclosing
amphitheatre of mounds, all of them
absolutely bare, and all dark-red, from
the millions of potsherds that defy the
winds of time and the dew and the
sun alike to stir them, or to even melt
away their sharp-edged fragments.”—
J. Macgregor.
After leaving Sân the country is
low and marshy, abounding in reeds
and stunted tamarisk-bushes, among
which boars may sometimes be found,
and the abundance of various kinds
of waterfowl is extraordinary. The
banks of the canal are very low, and
the whole is flooded during the inundation.

Here are the pastures for cattle,
which, like similar lowlands on the
borders of the Lake Brulos, hence
received, in ancient times, the name
of Bucolia, and were comprehended
under the denomination of Elearchia,
or the marsh district. They were
also called Bashmoor, as at the present
day; and the same name was
applied to a dialect of the Coptic,
which differed both from the Thebaic
and Memphitic, and was spoken in
this part of the Delta. Aboolfeda
comprises under the name of Bashmoor
the whole of the island between
the canal of Ashmoon (or, as it is now
called, of Menzaleh) and the Damietta
branch, and considers Ashmoon the
capital of this district.
Matareeych, 12 m. from Sân, stands
upon a point of land projecting into
the lake, and is joined to another
village, called El-Ghuznah, by a dyke
or causeway, only six feet wide. The
place is all fish; — the boats, the
houses, the streets, the baskets, the
people's hands, all are full of fish.
They catch fish, they salt fish, they
live on fish and by fish; and one
would think it had been founded by
the Ichthyophagi themselves.
Lake Menzaleh is the largest lake
in Egypt, having a superficial area
of about 500,000 acres. Its outline
is very irregular, especially on the
southern side. The northern side is
separated from the sea, with which it
communicates through several openings
called Boghaz, or passes, by
narrow banks or ridges of sand. The
depth of water is never very great,
even during the inundation, and in
the spring and summer the navigation
along the channels deep enough to
float a boat is very intricate and
difficult. The surface is dotted with
numerous islets, which more or less
disappear when the water is high, and
increase wonderfully in size and number
when it is low; but they are most
of them little better than sandy mudbanks.
Two of the principal islands
are Toona and Tennes. Toona is due
E. of Matareeyeh; it has a small village
called Sheykh Abdallah, where
there are a few old ruins. The most
interesting island to an antiquary is
that of Tennes, the ancient Tennesus. The remains there are of Roman time,
and consist of baths, tombs, and substructions.
The tombs are vaulted
and painted, mostly red on a white
ground. There are also earthenware
pipes, stamped with a letter or mark,
either of the owner or the maker.
These islands are very convenient
for the sportsman to pitch his tent on
for the night, instead of remaining on
board his boat: but care must be taken
to choose a dry spot, as far as possible
away from the lake exhalations, which
are very apt to bring on fever in the
late spring and summer.
There is plenty of shooting to be
had on the lake and in its neighbourhood.
On the lake itself wildfowl
literally swarm. “We had been told
of the enormous flocks of wildfowl
to be seen on this lake, and especially
in winter. I had seen thousands,
myriads of these, and wondered
at the multitude in the air.
But I never expected to see birds so
numerous and so close together that
their compact mass formed living
islands upon the water; and when the
wind now took me swiftly to these,
and a whole island rose up with a
loud and thrilling din to become a
feathered cloud in the air, the impression
was one of vastness and innumerable teeming life, which it is entirely
impossible to convey in words. The
larger geese and pelicans and swans
floated like ships at anchor. The long-legged
flamingoes and other waders
traced out the shape of the shallows
by their standing in the water. Smaller
ducks were scattered in regiments of
skirmishers about the grand army, but
every battalion of the gabbling, shrieking
host seemed to be disciplined,
orderly, and distinct. … To the
bird-fancier, or the scientific ornithologist,
one might well suppose that
a month on Lake Menzaleh would be
the very least he could give.”—J.
Macgregor.
The best way of getting at the
birds, which are shy and difficult of
approach, is to sail up to them in a
small boat.
The following are the names given
to some of the birds by the natives of
Lake Menzaleh: coot, goohr; heron,
balashòn; spoonbill, midwàs; pelican,
begga; flamingo, basharòos. The Nile
name of this last bird, gemel el-bahr ,
'water-camel,” is much more expressive.
In some places the shooting is
farmed out by the Government, and
the birds are taken in nets in large
numbers; where this is the case no
shooting is allowed. The fishing is
also farmed out for an annual rental
of 57,000l. It gives employment to
3000 or 4000 persons, and some
400 boats of various kinds are used
in it.
The village of Menzaleh can be
reached from Matareeyeh either by
the lake, and then 4 miles up the
Bahr Sogheiyer (see Rte. 8), or by
land, across a barren nitrous marsh.
The most convenient place from which
to visit Lake Menzaleh for the sportsman
and bird collector is Damietta
(see Rte. 8), as he will be able to
take all his stores and appliances
straight there from Cairo in a dahabeeyeh,
together with the small English
boat, which is indispensable to
much success in shooting; and he
will then have the dahabeeyeh as
headquarters to which he can return
whenever the occasion requires.

[Back to top]



A
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IN LOWER AND UPPER
EGYPT.
PART II.


CONTENTS OF PART II.

SECTION V.
THE DESERT EAST OF THE NILE, AND THE PENINSULA OF SINAI.
PAGE
Route 11. Cairo to the Convents
of St. Antony and
St. Paul
323
Route 12. The Valley of the Nile
(Keneh, Kobt, &c.)
to the Red Sea (Kossier,
&c.)
325
Route 13. Cairo to Gaza (Syria) by
the “Short Desert”
328
Route 14. Cairo to Mount Sinai 330
SECTION VI.
THE DESERT WEST OF THE NILE, AND THE FAYOOM.
Route 15. Cairo to the Natron
Lakes and Monasteries
360
Route 16. Alexandria or Cairo to
the Oasis of Seewah
or Ammon
366
Route 17. Cairo to the Little
Oasis, the Oasis of
Dakhleh, and the
Great Oasis
368
Route 18. Cairo to the Fayoom 370
SECTION VII.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FROM CAIRO TO THEBES.
Preliminary Information 385
Route 19. Cairo to Thebes 392
SECTION VIII.
THEBES.
Thebes:—
Preliminary Information
451
Description of Thebes—its Ruins
and Remains
454
SECTION IX.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FROM THEBES TO THE FIRST CATARACT
(ASSOOÁN AND PHILÆ).
PAGE
Route 20. Luxor (Thebes) to Assooán, the First Cataract, and Philæ. 509
SECTION X.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE IN NUBIA FROM THE FIRST TO THE SECOND
CATARACT.
Nubia:—
General Observations
534
Route 21. Philæ (1st Cataract) to
Wády Halfah (2nd
Cataract)
537
GENERAL INDEX 551

LIST OF MAPS, PLANS, ETC., IN PART II.

PAGE
Map of Mount Sinai, and the surrounding Valleys and Hills 349
Plan of the Temple of Sethi I., Abydus 434
Plan of the Temple of Rameses II. Abydus 436
Plan of the Temple of Denderah 441
Map of Thebes—western bank to face 455
Plan of the Rameseum, or Memnonium, Thebes 458
Plan of the Temple of Medeenet Haboo, Thebes 468
Plan of the Tomb of Sethi I., Thebes 479
Plan of the Tombs of the Kings (Bal El-Molook) 481
Map of Thebes and Luxor—eastern bank to face 497
Plan of the Great Temple of Karnak 500
Plan of the Temple of Edfoo 515
Plan of the Island of Philæ 530
Philæ, approaching it from the Cataracts 533
Plan and Section of the Great Temple of Aboo Simbel 547
Map of Egypt in pocket at the end.

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323

PART II.
SECTION V.
THE DESERT EAST OF THE NILE AND THE PENINSULA
OF SINAI.

PAGE
ROUTE 11. Cairo to the Convents
of St. Antony and
St. Paul in the
Eastern Desert by
Benisooéf
323
ROUTE 12 The Valley of the Nile
(Keneh,Kobt, &c.)
to the Red Sea
(Kosseir, &c.)
325
ROUTE 13. Cairo to Gaza (Syria)
by the “Short Desert”
328
ROUTE 14. Cairo to Mount Sinai 330

ROUTE 11.
CAIRO TO THE CONVENTS OF ST.
ANTONY AND ST. PAUL IN THE
EASTERN DESERT BY BENISOOEF.

This journey is not likely to be
undertaken by the ordinary traveller,
nor does it present any great points of
interest save to the geologist and the
student of Christian antiquities. The
usual Preparations must be made for a
desert journey, for which consult Rte.
14, a, as 3 or 4 nights at any rate
must be spent in the open, and no
provisions can be obtained on the road,
or indeed at the convents. Several
roads lead from the Nile to the convents,
and to other parts of the desert;
but the best and most frequented is
that from Dayr Byád, a village opposite
Benisooéf. Benisooéf (see p. 397)
can be reached by rail from Boolak
Dakroor in 3 hours, the train leaving
Boolak Dakroor at 8.30 a.m. and arriving
at Benisooéf at 11.30 a.m. It will
be advisable to have a letter of introduction
to the Mudeer from the Minister
of the Interior in Cairo. This
should be applied for through the English
Consul. On arriving at Benisooéf
it is necessary to send for the sheykh
of the Maazee Bedaween, who occupy
that part of the eastern desert which
has to be traversed, and make arrangements
with him for supplying camels
and an escort. The contract with the
sheykh should be signed at the Mudereeyeh
or government-house. To
avoid delay it is well to send a telegram
to the Mudeer some little time
beforehand, requesting him to send
for the sheykh by a certain date.
Before starting, letters of introduction
to the convents should be procured
from the subsidiary establishment at
Boosh, a village on the Nile, a short
distance N. of Benisooéf, where indeed
the Superior of the Convent of St.
Antony often resides.
For Cairo to Benisooéf, see Rte.
19 (p. 392).
The journey from Dayr Byád to

Dayr Mar-Antonios will take 3 days.
The best plan is to encamp the night
before the start at Dayr Byád, so as to
be off early the next morning. The
road to Dayr Mar-Antonios, after crossing
various torrent-beds, enters the
Wády el-Arraba, a large valley, nearly
20 m. broad, which runs eastward
between the ranges of the northern
and southern Kalalla. This valley has
received its name from the arrabas, or
carts, that formerly carried provisions
to the two monasteries, and is absurdly
reported to have been so called from the
chariots of Pharaoh that pursued the
Israelites as they crossed the sea to the
desert of Mount Sinai. There are
several watering-places in this wády,
the most convenient of which are at
Wády el-Areidah on the N., and at
Wády Om-Ainebeh on the S. side.
Gazelles may often be seen on the
road; and on the higher ground is
found the curious Anastatica or Jericho
rose. The scenery in parts is fine,
especially in the neighbourhood of a
large wády, about 2 hrs. from St.
Antony.
Dayr Mar-Antonios, “the Monastery
of St. Antony
,” was founded by St.
Antony of the Thebaïd, the friend and
companion of Mar-Bólos, or St. Paul,
a hermit who founded the neighbouring
monastery, called after him Dayr
Bölos. It claims to be the oldest
convent in Egypt, and the first in size
and importance. Its lofty walls enclose
an irregular mass of buildings,
and a large garden abounding in
vegetables, date palms, caroobs, and
other trees, and watered by rills conducted
from a fine spring that bursts
out of a cleft in the rock behind.
According to an Arab tradition mentioned
by Makreezee, Miriam, the
sister of Moses, bathed in this spring
at the time of the Exodus. The convent
has been destroyed and rebuilt;
but the lower part of the kasr or tower,
in which there is as usual a chapel
dedicated to St. Michael, and the
church of Mari Antonios are probably
ancient. This church is curious and
interesting, the walls being covered
with old frescoes, many of them very
curious in design. There are 3 other
churches within the convent, and a
large 12-domed one in the garden; but
they are all of them of comparatively
recent date. Tradition records that,
about 400 years ago, the monks were
all murdered by some Mussulman
slaves whom they had bought to do the
menial work and nominally converted
to Christianity. After a time these
slaves died off, and the convents were
left a prey to the Bedaween, who destroyed
everything, MSS. included.
Subsequently, about 300 years ago,
they were again taken possession of by
Coptic monks.
High up in the precipitous face of
the mountain above the convent is the
Maghárah, or Cave of St. Antony, a
small natural fissure in the rock, from
the ledge in front of which there is a
very fine view of the desert, the Red
Sea, and the Sinaitic mountains beyond.
Dayr Mar-Bólos is nearly a day's
journey beyond Dayr Antonios nearer
the Red Sea. It also has been destroyed
and rebuilt. In general appearance
and arrangement it much
resembles Dayr Antonios. The sites
of other convents are said to exist in
the neighbouring desert. At one, called
by the Arabs Dayr Behayt, there is a
well of good water.
The Quarries of Oriental alabaster,
which supplied the stone for the
mosque of Mohammed Ali at the
Citadel of Cairo, are in the Wády Om-Argób;
a valley running into the
Wády Moäthil, which again falls into
the Wády Sennoor, to the S. of the
road leading to the convents. There
is also a gypsum-quarry near the
Gebel Khaleel, on the N. side of the
Wády Arraba; and Wansleb speaks of
a ruined town in the same neighbourhood.
In this part of the desert the mountains
are all limestone; like those that
border the valley of the Nile, from
Cairo southwards to the sandstones of
Hagar Silsileh and its vicinity. The
junction of the limestone and sandstone
in the Maazee desert takes
place at about latitude 28° 42′ to the
S. of Dayr Bólos, and a few miles
farther down begins a range of primitive

mountains, granite, porphyry, &c.,
which continues parallel with the sea
to Abyssinia, throwing out a branch
westward, which touches the Nile at
Assooán (see p. 20). Considerably
farther S. are the porphyry quarries
at Gebel ed-Dokhan, “the Mountain of
Smoke,” about the latitude of Manfaloot,
and 27 m. from the Red Sea,
which supplied Rome with stone for
columns and many ornamental purposes;
much importance was attached
to them by the ancients, and they
are interesting from their extent of
quarries, the ruins there, and the insight
they give into the mode of
working the hard stone. The remains
consist of an Ionic temple, of the time
of Trajan, left unfinished, a town irregularly
built of rough stones, tanks,
and two large wells, or rather reservoirs
for collecting water during the
rains of winter, one cut in the porphyry
rock, and the ruins of buildings in
various parts of the mountains.
Mr. Brindley, who visited these
quarries in the spring of 1887, and
who is now in correspondence with the
Egyptian Government with a view to
getting a concession of these quarries,
read an interesting paper respecting
them at the meeting of the British
Association in 1887. He found the
quarries were at a height of about 3600
ft. above the sea. The Romans used
to send the blocks of porphyry to the
Nile, a distance of nearly 100 miles, but
Mr. Brindley proposes to bring them
by a gentle incline to a point near the
mouth of the Gulf of Suez, which is
only 25 miles distant. If this road is
opened up, the best way to visit the
quarries will be from the Red Sea.
The granite quarries at Gebel
el-Fatteéreh
, with the town of Fons
Trajanus
, lie in nearly the same latitude
as Gow (Antæopolis), on the
Nile, and about 24 m. S.E. of the
porphyry mountains. The stone has
a white ground with black spots, of
which some columns are still seen in
Rome. The quarries are very extensive,
and many blocks were evidently
taken from them. They were principally
worked in the time of Trajan
and Adrian. The Hydreuma, or Fons
Trajanus
, is a town of considerable
size. The houses are well built, considering
the roughness of the materials,
and outside the walls are a temple
and other buildings. In the quarries
are some large columns, and round
blocks, probably intended for their
bases and capitals. There are several
Greek inscriptions.

ROUTE 12.
FROM THE VALLEY OF THE NILE ( KENEH,
KOBT, ETC.), TO THE RED SEA (KOSSEIR,
ETC.).

Several roads lead from the Nile to
Kosseir, and other places near it on the
Red Sea, across the Arabian or Western
Desert. Formerly, as has been already
described, it was the highway of commerce
between Egypt and Arabia.
Now it is rarely crossed, and to the
ordinary traveller it offers no attractions.
The points of interest are the
inscriptions in the Valley of Hammamát,
the breccia quarries, and the gold
and emerald mines. The journey is an
easy one, and will take three or four
days by camel. It will be well to get a
letter of introduction from the Minister
of the Interior to the Mudeer of Keneh
to prevent any difficulty in hiring
camels.
Keneh, or Kobt, to Kosseir.—The
start can be made from either Keneh
or Kobt, both of which places are
reached by the Nile (see Rte. 19).
There are several roads, but they all
follow the same line, and constantly
diverge and rejoin one another. The
two most frequented are the Darb
el-Moileh
and the Derb er-Russafa,
both of which start from Keneh, and
are joined by the road from Coptos, at
the Wells of Egayta (33 1/2 m. from
Keneh, 27 m. from Coptos). At this
point they diverge, the Moileh road
going by the Wells of Moileh (45 1/2 m.),
and passing nothing to remark. The
Russafa Road is more interesting from

the ancient Roman stations met with
at intervals, and from its having been
the old road from Coptos to Philoteras-Portus.
There are eight of these
stations, or Hydreumas, some of which
are distant from each other only 6,
others from 8 to 12 m.; besides the
wells of El-Egayta already mentioned,
which were also known to the ancients.
Water could always be obtained at
these stations by means of large wells
sunk within them to a great depth,
and by supplies preserved in cisterns,
frequently in the solid rock. The
cisterns were spacious and covered by
awnings supported on poles, or pillars
of masonry, and were filled as occasion
required, for the use of the soldiers
quartered there, as well as those who
passed; and hence the name of “Fons,”
or “Hydreuma.
Near the Wells of Hammamát (24 1/2
m. from Egayta) are the Breccia
Quarries
, from which so many sarcophagi,
fonts, tazze, and other ornamental
objects made of this beautiful
stone, were cut by the ancients, both
in Pharaonic and Roman times. The
valley of the quarries is called Wády
Foakheér
, from the quantity of pottery
(fokhár) found there, but it is known
to Egyptologists as the Valley of Hammamát,
in which are so many interesting
hieroglyphics, some of very early
date.
The principal names are those of
Pepi; Merira; three very early
Pharaohs, two of which occur in the
chamber of kings at Karnak; Mentuhotep;
Sanhkhara—the first king, as
is recorded in a very interesting inscription,
under whom the journey
was made along this road from the
Nile to “Ophir and Punt”; Osirtasen
I. and III.; Amenemhat I. and II.;
Thothmes III.; Sethi I. and II.;
Rameses IV. and VIII.; Sabaco, and
the Princess Ameniritis; Psammetichus
I. and II.; Amasis; Cambyses;
Darius; Xerxes; Artaxerxes; Amyrtæus
(?); and Nectanebo.
There are many hieroglyphic and
Greek exvotos. In one of the latter
the writer is said to be a native of
Alabastron; and in one of the former
Amen-ra is styled “Lord of the regions
of the world,” and Kneph is
called “the Lord of the foreign land
of the Elephant,” or the island of
Elephantine. Khem or Pan is the
deity of the place. He was supposed
to be the particular “guardian of the
roads;” and until the worship of
Serapis was introduced by the Greeks
and Romans, he seems to have been
the principal god to whom temples
were built and prayers made in the
Egyptian deserts. The triad of this
valley consisted of Khem, the infant
Horus, and “Isis, the beautiful Mother
of the gods, queen of heaven.” There
are numerous huts in this valley of
the workmen who lived there, and a
small temple of Ptolemy Euergetes II.
The Russafa road continues by a
well called Moiet Hagee Soolayman
(33 m.), and joins the Moileh road
again near El-Bayda at a well called
Beer el-Ingleez (15 m. from Moiet
Hagee Soolayman, and 29 1/2 from
Moileh), from having been dug by our
Indian army on its way to the Nile in
1800. The water is brackish. The
next point are the springs of El-Ambagee
(5 1/2 m.), where the water is bad,
and 6 m. farther brings us to Kosseir
(see Rte. 7).
Kobt (Coptos) to Berenice.—The
stations on this road are mentioned in
the Itinerary of Antoninus as follows:—
M.P.
Phœnicon, or Peniconon from Coptos 27
Didyme 24
Aphrodito 20
Compasi 22
Jovis 33
Aristonis 25
Phalacro 25
Apollon 23
Cabalsi 27
Cænon Hydreuma 27
Berenice 18
   Total in Roman miles 271
Besides all these stations mentioned
in the Itinerary, an intermediate one
between Didyme and Aphrodito is met

with, on the direct road from Coptos
to Berenice, about 4 1/2 m. to the northward
of the latter. The Novum and
Vetus Hydreuma are the last stations
before reaching Berenice, the latter
being out of the road, about 4 m. up
a valley.
Pliny mentions the same route with
fewer names, and makes the distance
258 Roman miles. This road passes
through the modern Wády Matoolee
and other valleys that succeed it to
the southward.
The road now usually taken lies
through the Wády Sakáyt, in the
neighbourhood of which, and at Gebel
Zabára
, 5 or 6 hrs. to the N.E., are the
Emerald Mines, which are far less
interesting than might have been
supposed. They have been successively
worked by the ancient Egyptians, the
Khalifs, the Memlooks, and Mohammed
Ali, but are now abandoned. They lie
in micaceous schist; and numerous
shafts of considerable depth have been
excavated at the base of the mountain.
The largest is at Gebel Zabára, extending
downwards, at an angle of 37°,
to the distance of about 360 feet, being
318 in horizontal length, and 215 in
perpendicular depth.
To the south of Gebel Zabára is the
extensive village of Sakáyt, consisting
of numerous miners' huts and houses;
and independent of its mines, a temple
excavated in its rock, and some Greek
inscriptions, render it peculiarly interesting
to the antiquary. The name of
Sakáyt is evidently derived from that
given to the town in old times. A
Greek inscription there speaks of the
god Serapis and the lady Isis of
Senskis, or Senskete.
In the adjoining valley, called Wády
Nogrus
, which is only separated from
Wády Sakáyt by a ridge of hills, is
another similar village, whose houses
are better built and on a larger scale,
with the advantage of a natural reservoir,
under the neighbouring cliffs, of
excellent water.
These mines can also be reached
from opposite Edfoo, along the old
route from Contra-Apollinopolis (see
below).
About 20 hrs. from Wády Sakáyt is
Berenice , the ruins of which are known
to the Arabs as Sakáyt el-Kublee, “the
Southern Sakáyt.”
From Berenice a road leads to the
basanite mountain, now Om Kerrebeh,
at which are some considerable workings,
passing by some ruined stations,
and an ancient village of considerable
extent; and some distance to the eastward
of these quarries is the Mons
Pentedactylus
, now Gebel Feraïd,
whose five cones are still more remarkable
when seen from Berenice.
Other Roads.—Among other roads
which may be mentioned was one
which left the Nile near Contra-Apollinopolis,
and, taking a southerly
direction, ran probably to the Gold
Mines at Gebel Allákee
, mentioned by
Agatharcides and other authors, and
subsequently by Edreesee and Aboolfeda.
These mines lie some distance
to the S. of the Ababdeh desert, in the
territory of the Bishareeyeh. They
are, as Edreesee and Aboolfeda observe,
“in the land of Beja,” the Bisháree
country. From two Arabic funeral
inscriptions they appear to have been
worked in the years 339 A.H. (951 A.D.)
and 378 A.H. (989 A.D.), just previous
to, and some years after, the arrival of
the Fatemites in Egypt. It is certain,
however, that they were worked at a
much earlier date. On an old Egyptian
map at Turin a spot is marked called
Akita, and the annexed inscriptions
speak of the “mountains out of which
gold was extracted,” and mention in
connection with it the name of Sethi I.
as working the mines. Still stronger
evidence exists in an inscription found
at Kuban (Contra-Pselcis) opposite
Dakkeh in Nubia, which celebrates the
re-opening of the gold mines of Akita
by Rameses II. (See ‘Records of the
Past,’ viii. 75; and Brugsch's ‘Hist,
of Egypt,’ ii. 80.) No doubt a road
anciently ran from Contra-Pselcis to
the gold mines. There is a road from
Keneh to Gimseh at the Gulf of Suez,
passing by the porphyry mountain of
Gebel Dokhan. It was by this road
that the great blocks of porphyry were
brought from the quarries to the Nile.
Mr. E. Floyer, Director of the Egyptian

Telegraphs, travelled by this road in
1886. There is a paper by him giving
a good map of his route in the ‘Proceedings
of the Royal Geographical
Society’ for November, 1887.

ROUTE 13.
CAIRO TO GAZA (SYRIA), BY THE
“SHORT DESERT.”

This route was at one time a good
deal followed as the easiest and shortest
road from Cairo to Syria, and was
called the “Short Desert” route, to
distinguish it from the “Long Desert”
route by Sinai and Petra. Now, however,
that there are such facilities for
getting from Alexandria and Port
Said to Jaffa, it is hardly worth while
to undertake a long and tedious journey
on camels or donkeys through a
country which contains hardly anything
of interest. Even those who
might be disposed to undertake it for
the sake of a little experience of desert
travelling would probably avail themselves
of the railway as far as Ismailia,
and the thence to Kantarah
(see Rte. 7), sending on their
camels, tents, &c., to meet them there,
and employing the time that these
would occupy to reach Kantarah in
paying a visit to Suez and the Canal:
or the start might be made from
Ismailia; or the railway taken to
Salaheeyeh (see Rte. 9), and the start
made from there. For instructions
with regard to a desert journey, see
Rte. 14, a. The traveller by this route
can, if he likes, ride a horse or a donkey,
as there is no difficulty about carrying
enough water.
The road from Cairo passes a short
way to the S. of Heliopolis and of the
Birket el-Hagg (10 1/2 m.), over the plain
where Toman Bey was defeated by
Sultan Selim. After leaving the
Maazee road (10 m.) you turn round
the eastern corner of the large sandhills
of Undthám. Um-Gummal (10 m.)
is high land, and from the summit
the pyramids are seen to the W., and
Gebel Attákah, near Suez, to the E.
About 5 m. farther you cross the Wády
Jaffra
, which runs down to Belbays,
about 9 m. to the 1. For a description
of the country of this district and of
the Wády Canal see Rte. 7.
Salaheeyeh is a village of 2800 inhabitants,
and is connected by rail
with Cairo viâ Zagazig. The country
W. of it is celebrated for its dates.
Several mounds of ancient towns are
seen in the distance; among them Tel
Defenneh, which marks the site of
Daphne, the Tehaphnehes or Tahpanhes
of the Bible, a fortified outpost of
Pelusium, and distant from it 16 Roman
miles. Here Mr. Petrie has recently
made some explorations, and has discovered
a large building probably of
the XXVIth Dynasty, which is still
called the “Palace of the Jew's daughter,”
recalling the flight of the Jews to
Tahpanhes (Jeremiah xliii. 9). Mr.
Petrie sums up his discoveries thus—
“The general results of the Defenneh
work are of double interest, Jewish and
Greek. The Jewish connection we
now see to have been with a Greek
settlement, which therefore throws back
the beginning of the Hellenisation of
the Jews to before their captivity.”
“The interest of finding the only
Egyptian building specifically named
in the Old Testament is unique, and
this is increased by the fact that its
arrangement explains a specific description
given by Jeremiah.
From Salaheeyeh the road crosses
the desert (19 miles) to Kantarah,
where there is a ferry over the Suez
Canal.
Considerably to the left of the road
are the ruins of Pelusium , the Sin of
the Bible, the Peremoun or Pheromi
of the Copts, and the modern Teeneh
or Tineh. The remains consist of
mounds and a few broken columns
It is difficult of access, and is only
approachable during the high Nile, or
when the summer's sun has dried the
mud that is left there by the inundation.

It stands near the sea-shore.
Its modern name of Teeneh (Arabic
Teen,” mud) seems to indicate the
muddy nature of the soil in the vicinity,
for which some suppose it was indebted
to its ancient appellation, Pelusium,
being the Greek for “mud.”
Pelusium in former times was a
place of great consequence. It was
strongly fortified, being the bulwark of
the Egyptian frontier on the eastern
side, and was considered the “Key”
or, as Ezekiel calls it, the “Strength
of Egypt” (Ezek. xxx. 15, 16). Near
this the unfortunate Pompey met his
death, basely murdered by order of
Ptolemy and his minister Photinus,
whose protection he had claimed B.C.
48. The young king was engaged in
a war with his sister Cleopatra, whom
he had just before expelled the kingdom;
and the two armies were encamped
opposite each other in the
vicinity of Pelusium, when the galley
of Pompey arrived; and Achillas, who
afterwards figured so conspicuously in
the Alexandrian war against Cæsar,
“under pretence of taking him ashore,
invited him into a boat, and treacherously
slew him.” A mound of sand on
the coast, about 4 hrs. to the west of
Pelusium, called by the Arabs the
Roman hill, is said to record the spot
of Pompey's death. His body was
indeed burnt on the sea-shore by his
freedman Philip, and Cæsar is said to
have raised a monument to his memory,
which was afterwards repaired by
Hadrian, and visited by Severus. But
“the ashes of Pompey were taken to
his widow, Cornelia. who buried them
at his villa near Alba,” though Lucan
would seem to say that they were still
in Egypt in his time. Be this as it
may, the tomb might still remain; but
Pliny places it to the east of Pelusium,
in the direction of Mons Casius. The
“Roman hill” cannot therefore be the
“tumulus” of Pompey; and the tomb
which Aboolfeda, on the authority of
Ibn Haukel, gives to Galen, may perhaps
be transferred to Pompey. Certain
it is that the physician of Aurelius
was not buried in Egypt, but in his
native place Pergamus; and the distance
from Pelusium, mentioned by
Pliny, seems too great for the position
of Pompey's tomb.
Magdolum is supposed to have been
about half-way between Tacasarta and
Penta Schœnon, which last may have
been at the modern Kateeyeh.
The first stage after leaving Kantarah
is at some date groves near a
large well. The route continues over
and among low sandhills, with now
and then a hard mud-flat, which in
the wet season is a pool, to Beer el-Abd,
where are a well of brackish
water and some telegraph-men's huts.
The next stage is Mazar , with a well
of brackish water, a sheykh's tomb,
and two or three mud huts; it is
better not to camp near the well
on account of the camel ticks. Four
hours from Mazar is Toweel Assalim,
the highest of the low hills which
extend from El-Areesh, and almost at
the end of the range. Another 4 hrs.,
and after passing through some beautiful
groves of date-palms, we reach
El-Areesh (Arish), the ancient
Rhinocolura , which was a place of
exile in the time of the Pharaohs, and
was so called from the malefactors
having their “noses cut off,” instead
of being punished by death. The
town contains about 800 inhabitants.
There is a large square fort, with
battlemented walls, flanked at each
corner by towers. It is the residence
of a governor, and is garrisoned by a
few troops. Wády el-Areesh is supposed
to be the torrent or “river of Egypt,”
which was the ancient boundary on
the side of Syria. There is water in
it after rain.
The road continues very near the
sea-coast, the whole way from El-Areesh
to Gaza. About 6 hrs. from
El-Areesh we reach a sheykh's tomb
and some telegraph-men's huts, and
3 hrs. farther are the boundary-stones
of the Egypto-Syrian frontier. Off
the road to the W. is Refah, the
ancient Rhaphia. It is referred to
by Josephus as the first station in
Syria at which Titus rested when on
his way to besiege Jerusalem. Two
hrs. from the frontier we reach Khan
Yoones
, supposed to occupy the site of
Jenysus; but the idea has probably

arisen from an accidental resemblance
of name, since Jenysus, being only
three days' journey from Mons Casius,
would seem to have been nearer Egypt.
Some interpret the name as meaning
“the resting-place of Jonas,” and as
fixing the place where the prophet was
thrown up by the whale. But the
usual Arabic tradition places that
occurrence between Sidon and Beyroot.
Sheep and poultry can be
procured in this village. There is a
picturesque ruin of a fort and mosque;
a good view of the surrounding country
can be obtained from the minaret.
Two hrs. from Khan Yoones is the
village of Beer Aboo Balk, with a fine
grove of date-palms and a large deep
well; and Gaza is reached in 2 1/2 hrs.
more.
Gaza, now called Ghuzzeh, is a
town of some 10,000 inhabitants,
situated on a low flat hill about 3
miles from the sea. It was formerly,
as its Hebrew and Arabic names imply,
a “strongly fortified place,” but it is
now quite open. It is a very old city,
and played a great part in Biblical
history. Its position, as the last town
in the S.W. of Palestine and on the
frontier of Egypt, made it an important
military position; but since the conquest
of Egypt and Syria by the
Moslems it has had no history. For
a full description of Gaza, see Handbook
of Syria.
There is a telegraph
station at Gaza, and some English
clerks.

ROUTE 14.
CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI.

a. Preliminary Hints. b. Cairo to
Suez. c. Inhabitants of the Peninsula
of Sinai. d. Geography and
natural features. e. Natural History
and Climate. f. Ruins. g.
Route of the Israelites from Egypt
to Mt. Sinai. h. Route from Ain
Moosa to Jebel Moosa (Mt. Sinai)
and the Convent of St. Catherine;
(α) viâ Wády Mukatteb and Feirán;
(β) viâ Sarábit el-Khádim. i. Description
of Convent. k. Ascent of
Jebel Moosa and Rás Sufsáfeh.
l. Ascent of Jebel Katareena. m.
Other excursions. n. Continuation
of the journey by the Long Desert,
viá Akabah and Petra, or viá Nahkl,
to Palestine.

a. PRELIMINARY HINTS.

From Cairo to Mount Sinai is one of
the stages in what is called the “Long
Desert” route from Egypt to Syria;
but as many travellers pay a visit to
Mt. Sinai, and then return to Egypt
without going farther, it will be convenient
to describe it separately.
Seasons.—The best for desert travelling
is during the mouths of February,
March, and April. Earlier than February
the nights are very cold, and
snow is not uncommon in the Sinai
hills. Later than April the days are
very hot. The time required for the
journey from Suez to the convent at
Sinai and back will be from a fortnight
to three weeks, according to the
time spent at the convent.
Preparations.—These are usually
made at Cairo, as most of the sheykhs
of the Towárah Arabs, who act as
guides, and from whom camels are
hired, are to be found in the early
spring at the Egyptian capital waiting
for a job, and the dragomen like to
employ men they know, and have the
terms of the contract settled, including
the camels, at Cairo. But unless the
traveller is anxious to spend a few
days in crossing the desert from Cairo
to Suez, instead of going to the latter
place by railway in one day, and if he
does not mind giving himself a little
extra trouble, he will save a good deal
of expense by telegraphing or writing
to the manager of the Suez Hotel a
few days before he intends leaving
Cairo, and requesting him to have
some camels and guides ready by a
certain date. If there should be none
at Suez, three or four days will suffice
to bring in any number from the desert.

The contract with the dragoman can
then be made at Cairo to include everything
but camels, which the traveller
will make his own bargain for at Suez,
and tents, stores, &c., can be sent to
Suez by rail. Perhaps the best plan of
all is to engage the sheykh at Cairo,
with the understanding that his camels
will only be paid for from Suez: only
by no means be persuaded to go to Tor
on the Red Sea by water from Suez, as
when once there, the Arabs will ask
what they like. Those who are
unacquainted with the country had
better consult Messrs. Cook's agents in
Cairo respecting the arrangements to
be made.
A letter of introduction must be
obtained at Cairo or Suez from the
agents of the Convent of St. Catherine
at Sinai, as the monks may make a
difficulty about admitting the traveller
without one.
Expenses.—Supposing that the traveller
dispenses with a dragoman and
a contract, merely engaging a man as
a servant, with or without a canteen,
and providing tents, stores, &c., and
hiring camels himself, his expenses
from Suez to Sinai and back need not
be more than at the rate of 30s. to 35s.
a day, and two people could do it for
2l.; but of course more trouble is
involved than if he engages a dragoman
to provide him with everything.
The charges of dragomen vary so
from year to year, that it is difficult to
estimate the expense of this journey,
but a party of 4 persons ought not to
pay more than 30 shillings a day each
for everything except wine; this proportion
being lessened or increased
according to the size of the party.
Formerly people were content to
travel without beds and a hundred
other little luxuries which are now
considered indispensable; and indeed
it would be difficult now to
find a good dragoman who would consent
to undertake the job unless it
was to be carried out in the way he
considers necessary, and for which he
charges accordingly. It should be
distinctly understood, when the contract
is made with the dragoman to
supply everything, that the traveller is
never to be troubled by the Arabs
with any sort of application for money
or anything else; the dragoman is
responsible for everything: but at the
end of the journey, if satisfaction has
been given, a small backsheesh may be
distributed. The contract with the
dragoman should be properly signed
at the Consulate, where, if it is wished,
a form of agreement can be obtained,
in which alterations can be made to
suit any particular requirements. Half
the amount of the contract may be
paid on the conclusion of the agreement,
but the other half should be
kept till the journey is over. If the
traveller hires the camels himself, he
will have to make a separate contract
with the sheykh who supplies them,
either at Cairo or Suez. It is impossible
to lay down any fixed sum for
the hire of camels, but it may be
assumed roughly that while from 6 to
8 shillings a day will be asked at
Cairo, they may be obtained at Suez
for half-a-crown for travelling days,
and 1 shilling for stopping days. If
Messrs. Cook arrange the excursion, the
expenses will probably be less, and the
comfort greater.
Things required.—The following list
may be useful, even to those who intrust
everything to a dragoman, as they will
find it advisable every now and then to
superintend his preparations. A party
of 4 should have 2 large tents, one
for feeding and sitting in, and one
for sleeping in, and one smaller one
for the kitchen and servants. When
the party consists of only 2, or even
3, one tent for day and night might
be sufficient. Beds (iron that fold
up), tables, chairs, and all the inside
appurtenances of a tent should be
examined, and seen to be strong and
sound. The tents should be provided
with extra ropes, as well as a double
supply of pegs and mallets. All water
for drinking should be carried in
barrels kept strictly locked, and the
Arabs never allowed to draw from
them. In addition to this, each person
should have a small water-skin, called
a zemzemeeyeh, to hang at his saddle;
these, if new, should be filled and
emptied several times, to get rid of the

disagreeable taste they give to the
water. Water for washing may be
carried in a goat-skin, called girbeh;
but the following description will
show the traveller who does not care
about roughing it too much, that he
had better not be dependent on the
girbeh, and the water that is generally
to be met with in the Peninsula. “To
the traveller in these thirsty limestone
deserts, his dependence upon brackish
and unpalatable water for his only
supply is one of his greatest hardships.
To be constantly imbibing a fairly
powerful solution of Epsom salts is an
amusement one soon grows tired of.
We used to try all sorts of plans to disguise
the flavour,—lime-juice, brandy,
strong tea, or Arab coffee as thick as
cream; but neither these, nor boiling,
nor filtering, nor anything we could do,
were really of much avail. Then again,
the system of carrying it in girbehs, or
prepared goat-skins, though externally
convenient in some respects, does not
improve its flavour or the relish with
which you drink it. The appearance
of a filled girbeh is very much that of
a small black pig which has met with
a watery grave; so that, what with
the naturally villainous taste of the
water, its strong purgative properties,
the little extra goatish flavour imparted
to it by the girbeh, and the
notion of the drowned pig, you have
to become pretty well hardened before
you can be said to enjoy it.”—Capt.
H. S. Palmer.
It may be added, however,
that the water in the granite
district is excellent. A pair of Arab
saddle-bags (khurg) should be taken,
as they are very useful for carrying
everything required for the night,
books, &c.
With regard to Provisions, travellers
will provide themselves according to
their wants and tastes; but it must
be remembered that absolutely nothing
can be bought after leaving Suez, except
sheep, which may sometimes be
had from the Bedaween near Sinai.
In addition, therefore, to any preserved
meats and other things, it
is necessary to take a stock of live
fowls, turkeys, and pigeons for the
whole journey. Fresh bread may be
baked at Sinai. Good tea will be
found a very grateful and refreshing
drink after a hot day's ride. One of
the best pick-me-ups after a hot and
wearying day's ride is a tumbler of
tea à la Russe, with a slice of lemon,
some sugar, and a spoonful of brandy.
Milk can only be procured regularly
if there happens to be among the
camels one with a newly - dropped
young one: it is better, therefore, to
take some preserved milk. A supply of
oranges is a pleasant luxury, and will
be much appreciated at the mid-day
meal. Water should never be drunk
alone, but always mixed with a little
brandy: indeed, on the score both of
health and convenience of carriage,
weak brandy-and-water is the best
beverage on a desert journey; but it
is one, no doubt, which many people
do not like, and they will prefer to take
claret,—though, as 3 bottles of claret
will hardly go as far as one of brandy,
an extra camel will be required for its
transport. An extra supply of coffee
and Soóree tobacco, to give to the
Arabs occasionally, will be found
useful.
There ought to be but little need
of Medicine in the pure air of the
desert; but if the traveller is provided
with a small medicine chest, he had
better take it with him. A little rosewater
is often pleasant to the eyes after
a hot day's march in the sun; and eaude-luce
or, still better, ammonia, is a
good thing for bites and stings.
A flannel shirt and a suit of tweed of
moderate texture, not too thin, forms
the best Clothing. It is a great mistake
to wear very thin clothing, as the
direct rays of the sun are felt through
it in the daytime, and the evenings
are often quite cold. A rug and great
coat should be taken: an extra covering
is often required at night, and they
are useful in adding to the comfort of
the seat on the camel. The head
must be well protected from the sun:
a pith helmet, or a white or grey felt
hat, well wrapped round with a puggaree,
are perhaps the best coverings;
but especial care should be taken that
the nape of the neck is well protected.
It is a good thing to cut the hair pretty

short, and always wear underneath
the helmet or hat one of the white
cotton caps (takeeyeh) worn by the
natives under the tarboosh. A tarboosh
itself will be found useful for
wear in the tent at night. Those who
intend to do much walking and climbing
among the Sinaitic hills must
have at least one, if not two, pair of
very stout strong boots, as the granite
rocks destroy leather in an incredibly
short space of time. A loose white
burnoose, or abbayeh, to wear while
camel-riding, is a great protection from
both heat and dust. Though it will
seldom be wanted in the desert, it is
well to take a macintosh sheet, or
American oilcloth, for damp ground.
The ordinary Arab saddle-bags will
be found very useful for carrying
things in daily use. The best portmanteau
is a tin travelling bath of
moderate size, with an inside that
takes out, and a wicker covering: and
this arrangement allows the luxury of a
bath, when water is to be had, without
carrying extra luggage. All india-rubber
baths have the disadvantage
of not being able to be repaired anywhere
if they get out of order.
Camel-riding.—Much of the comfort
in a desert journey depends on
having a good camel and a comfortable
seat. The camel should be chosen and
tried beforehand; and the quieter he
is, and the easier his paces, the better.
A trotting dromedary (heggeen) nobody
requires who is going to keep pace
with tents and baggage, but an animal
less rough in its walk than the ordinary
baggage-camel is a desideratum.
Much careful preparation should be
given to the seat. Some will prefer a
regular dromedary-saddle, with the
addition of stirrups to rest the legs.
The more ordinary method is, first to
sling the saddle-bags across the common
camel pack-saddle, and then to
pile on the top as many wraps and
rugs as you may have, so as to form
as soft and wide a seat as possible,
taking care to strap them firmly down
in order to prevent their slipping.
You may then sit in any position you
please,—sideways, or astride, or lady-fashion.
Stirrups may be hung on
either from the peak in the front of
the saddle, or from the side, to give
a rest to the foot. The following plan
is recommended by one who has had
some experience in camel-riding:—
“Place a light box or package on
either side of the pack-saddle, sufficiently
closely corded to form one
wide horizontal surface. On this lay a
carpet, mattress, blanket, and wraps,
thus forming a delicious couch or seat,
and giving the option of lying down,
or sitting either side-saddle or cross-legged.
Sheets, pillow, rug, &c., may
be rolled up and strapped to the back
of the saddle, and form an excellent
support to the back or elbow.” The
object of the light box or package is
to a certain extent answered by a pair
of well stuffed saddle-bags. A proper
supply of rope nets (shebbekeh) for
packing the baggage on the camels is
essential: otherwise the loads are continually
coming to pieces and falling:
moreover the nets act as a protection
against projecting pieces of rock in a
narrow defile.
General Hints.—Two more observations
personal to the traveller in the
desert may be added. If strong and
able, he should walk as much as possible.
The Arabian desert has not,
like the African, a surface of deep sand,
but offers to the pedestrian, as a rule,
a crisp, gravelly foothold, very pleasant
to walk on. The pace of the
camels—2 1/2 miles an hour—can always
be exceeded by the walker, and this
affords him the opportunity, when
there is no fear of losing the way, and
the road is everywhere secure, as it is
between Suez and Sinai, of examining
the country a little more in detail
than is possible from a camel's back.
Another great relief to the uncontrollable
feeling of ennui and sense of
monotony, which comes over most
people during a long day's ride on a
camel's back under a broiling sun, is
reading. The scenery may be impressive
and full of interest of all kinds,
and your companions may be kindred
in spirit and pleasant to talk to, but
nevertheless a book is an agreeable
change. Not a stiff book either, treating
of the place and its history, but a novel

or some such light reading. Stanley,
Warburton, Miss Martineau, Lord Lindsay,
and as many other “local” books
as can be found room for, should of
course be taken and read daily, and no
one needs to be reminded that there is
no book so real in its descriptions, and
so local in its colouring, as the Bible;
but a stock of light literature in the
Tauchnitz edition, which can be thrown
away as read, will be found by many
persons most useful in helping to pass
away an hour, when mind and body are
too wearied for any exertion.

b. CAIRO TO SUEZ.

It will be found much better to go
by rail (see Rte. 7), as there is absolutely
nothing to see on the desert
journey, which will require 4 days.
For those who wish to follow it, it may
be mentioned that there are several
routes, which however all eventually
merge in one.
1. Derb el-Hagg, “Road of the Pilgrims,”
passes by Heliopolis and the
Birket el-Hagg, beyond which it turns
to the rt. by a stone ruin called es
Sebeel
(“the Fountain”), and is shortly
afterwards joined by
2. Derb el-Hamra (the old Indian
mail route), which leaves Cairo to the
S. of the Gebel Ahmar, and passes
Kalaiat Raian (9 m.) and Wády
Halazónee
(8 m.), between which
places there is much petrified wood.
10 m. farther on joins the Derb el-Hagg,
and continues to Wády Gendelee
and Wády Jaffra (10 m.), where, near
the road, there is water after abundant
rains. Om esh-Sharameet, the Mother
of Rags (3 m.), is one of the pilgrims'
halting places, and close to the principal
station (No. 4) of the old overland
route. About 6 m. from Wády Gendelee
falls in
3. Derb-et Towárah, which on leaving
Cairo runs almost parallel to the
last route, and is that generally followed
by the Towárah Arabs. The
three roods united pass Beer el-Batter,
where the limestone reappears, and the
petrified wood ceases with the sandstone,
and reach the Plain of El-Muggreh
(14 m. from Om esh-Sharameet),
the highest part of the road; to
the eastward of it all the valleys flow
towards the sea and to the westward
towards the Nile. About 5 m. farther
on the road is joined by
4. Derb el-Bussateen, which runs S.
from Cairo 3 m. to Bussateen, and then
turns E. across the Mokattam range.
This, according to Arab tradition, is
the route followed by the Israelites.
All the above roads are now united,
and continue together to El-Múktala
(10 m. from El-Muggreh), near which
are traces of the course of an ancient
road, and on to Ageróod (6 m.), where
there is a fort At this point the Derb
el-Hagg turns off to the Peninsula of
Sinai; while the road to Suez continues
to Beer Suez (8 m.), and thence
to Suez (4 m.).

c. INHABITANTS OF THE PENINSULA
OF
SINAI.

The collective name for the Bedaween
inhabiting the Peninsula of
Sinai is the Towárarh (sing. Tooree),
or Arabs of Tor , the ancient name of
the Peninsula. They are subdivided
into several tribes, of which the principal
are—
  • 1. The Sowálha, the most important,
    with two powerful and independent
    subdivisions—
    • a. The Walad Saeed.
    • b. The Korasheh.
  • 2. The Aleikát.
  • 3. The Emzeineh.
  • 4. The Walad Sháheen.
  • 5. The Jebeleeyeh. These last are
    called Sebáya ed-Dayr, or “Serfs of
    the Convent,” and are looked down
    upon by the other tribes as not of pure
    Arab descent.
The Walad Saeed and the Aleikát
are the recognised ghúfurah, or
“guards” of the Convent of St.
Catherine, and with the Jebeleeyeh
possess the right of conducting pilgrims
to or from Tor or Suez; but
camels may be hired from any of the
Towárah tribes. In addition to the
Towárah there are, in the northern
part of the Peninsula, the Terabeen,
the Tiyáhah, and the Haiwát.
The total population of the Towárah
tribes may be estimated at about 5000.
They are a peaceful, harmless people,
but hardy, and though poor, dignified.
Their camels are their chief support,
and they gain a scanty livelihood by
conducting the traffic between Suez,
Sinai, and Tor. In the more fertile
districts, such as the Feirán, tobacco is
grown, and the fruit of the date-bearing
palm is an important article of
food. Their few flocks of sheep and
goats are chiefly useful for the wool
and hair they supply: it is seldom that
any are slaughtered. Another article
of commerce is the min, the traditional
manna, a sweet gummy substance that
exudes from the tarfah, or tamarisk-tree.
It continues to drop about two
months, commencing in the autumn.
The name is similar to the Hebrew
word given in the Bible, and some
think it was given to the food in consequence
of the uncertainty of the
Israelites about the unknown substance,
“they wist not what it was,”
min signifying “what” in Hebrew and
in Arabic. The dress of the Towárah
consists of a nominally white shirt,
with long open sleeves, fastened round
the waist with a leathern girdle, and
over this an abbayeh, or long cloak of
camel's hair. Instead of the typical
head-dress of the Bedaween — the
kefeeyeh, a gaily striped handkerchief,
fastened with a fillet of camel's hair—
they wear fez and turban. The women
are generally closely veiled, and
wrapped in a loose blue frock, with a
blue mantle over it. Though they
seldom perform the orthodox and ostentatious
Mohammedan prayer ceremonial,
they frequently during the day,
without any outward sign of worship,
recite some petition.
It would require too much space to
describe the peculiar manners and customs
common among these or among
other desert tribes; but some of their
Traditions, connected with the Israelites
and Moses, are worth a short
mention. Their legend of the passage
of the Red Sea agrees substantially
with the story of the Bible, but the
locale is placed at Hammám Pharoon,
some way down the Gulf of Suez,
where the sulphurous hot-baths are
supposed to have been caused by Pharaoh's
struggling to extricate himself
from the waves. The memory of
Moses is preserved in the names of
several places, such as “the Wells of
Moses,” at Suez and at Gebel Moosa;
“the Seat of Moses,” at Hammám
Pharoon, where he watched the drowning
of the Egyptians; at El-Wateeyeh;
in the Wády ed-Dayr; and on Jebel
Moosa, where there is the impression
of a human head and back, said to
have been made by Moses when he
shrunk back as the glory of the Lord
passed by. Other mementoes also
exist in the rocks said to have been
struck by him, as at Wady Berrah,
near the Convent, where there is a
divided rock called Hajar el-Laghweh,
“the Speaking Stone,” said to have
been severed by Moses; at the Wády
el Lejah is another called Hajar el-Magáreen,
“the Rock of the United
Ones:” and in the Wády Feirán is a
rock called Hesy el-Khattáteen, said
by the Bedaween to be the identical
one from which water issued when
struck by Moses. Other memories of
the Israelites linger in the names
Shóeib (Jethro), Imrán (Amram),
Moneijah (The Conference). The
various primitive tombs and dwellings,
and every ruin of which the purpose
is unknown to the Bedaween, are
called by them nawámees, “mosquito
houses,” because, they say, that when
the Israelites “rebelled against God
and against Moses,” the Lord sent a
plague of mosquitoes to torment them,
and these edifices were erected as a
refuge from the tiny persecutors. It
may be pointed out, however, that
the word namoos, pl. nawámees, a
means a hut in which a hunter conceals
himself, and this meaning furnishes a
more probable explanation of the term
as applied to these ruins.

d. GEOGRAPHY AND NATURAL
FEATURES.

The Peninsula of Sinai is in shape
a triangle, of which the base, a line
drawn from Suez to Akabah, is 150 m.

long, the western side 186 m., and the
eastern 133 m., the point at which
the two sides meet being Rás Mohammed.
The area contained within
these limits is about 11,500 square
miles. Within this triangle, having
the same base-line, and with its vertex
also towards the south, is a crescent
formed by the southern portion of the
great table-land known as the Badiet
et-Tih, or Wilderness of the Wanderings.
It is separated from the rest
of the Peninsula by a steep and lofty
limestone ridge, forming a curved
frontier, of which the highest point is
Jebel Emreikeh, situated about midway
between the two arms of the Red
Sea. There are thus two distinct
tracts of country, the comparatively
level desert of the Tih on the north,
and the rugged mountains of Tor on
the south. The latter may be considered
as more emphatically the
Peninsula of Sinai; by the Arabs it
is known under the names Tor Sinai,
Jebel Tor Sinai, and Jebel et-Tor.
The watershed of this mountainous
region runs north and south, the valleys
trending westward into the Gulf
of Suez, and eastward into the Gulf of
Akabah. The central point in the
system is Jebel Katareena, 8550 ft.,
the highest mountain in the Peninsula.
There are three chief geological subdivisions.
1. The sandstone district.
This occupies a comparatively small
portion of the Peninsula. The main
part of it is in the north, and runs
conterminous with the line of the Tih
escarpment. In it are the only plains
of deep heavy sand met with in the
Peninsula. One of these, the Debbet
er-Ramleh , covers a space of about 130
square miles, or one-eighth of the
whole sandstone area. There are
smaller tracts to the east. The chief
features of this district are sandstone
peaks, table-topped ranges and plateaux
intersected by valleys, and undulating
plains. It is the richest in
objects of archæological interest. In
it are found in great numbers the
famous “Sinaitic rock-inscriptions,”
the sandstone rocks of Wády Mukatteb
being covered with these
graffiti. At Maghárah and at Sarábit-el-Khádim
are the old Egyptian turquoise
and copper mines, with hieroglyphic
tablets of great age. 2. The
Plutonic and Metamorphic Rocks.

These compose the largest and most
striking district of the Peninsula, and
indeed give its distinctive character to
the whole region. They extend in a
triangular mass of mountains from the
margin of the sandstone belt to the apex
of the Peninsula at Rás Mohammed,
and include the well-known peaks of
Jebel Serbál, Jebel Moosa, and Jebel
Katareena. The rocks are composed
chiefly of granites and syenites, and
varieties of gneiss and mica-schist.
The whole region is a chaos of mountains,
a bewildering network of rocky
valleys and glens, with but a few open
spaces. This granite district is the
grandest and the most striking, containing,
as it does, the massive single pile of
Serbál, and the magnificent lofty mass,
in the heart of which are Jebel Moosa
and the monastery of St. Catherine,
and the towering peak of Jebel Katareena.
3. The Cretaceous and Tertiary
Rocks.
This district is comprised in
the long narrow strip which skirts the
sea-board from Suez to Rás Mohammed.
It is less mountainous than
either the sandstone or granitic region,
and the scenery is without interest.
The beach which lines the sea-margin
on the W. often spreads out into
large plains, of which the chief is El-Gáah,
but on the E. the granite hills
descend almost to the shore-line.
The general aspect of the country is
one of utter barrenness and desolation,
but there are a few green spots in the
upland basins, and in some of the narrow
passes and rocky glens. The
chief oasis is at Wády Feirán; and in
the spring-time many of the valleys
have streams running down them,
whose stores are replenished by occasional
showers and heavy dews. These
valleys, or “wádies,” form the highways
of the Peninsula, and the homes
of the Bedaween. Wády, the participial
agent of the verb wadee to
“send out,” “go out,” and hence “to
flow,” may be taken as implying a rent
or depression, down which water flows.
Dean Stanley has described it as “a

hollow, a valley, a depression—more
or less deep, or wide, or long—worn
or washed by the mountain torrents or
winter rains for a few months or weeks
in the year.” Perhaps the best
English words to express it are “valley,”
or “watercourse.” As a rule
these wádies are dry, or have water
only on rare occasions, but it is easy to
account for the traces they present of
the passage of large volumes of water,
by the sudden storms which, at rare
intervals, break over some part of the
Peninsula. The prodigious quantity of
rain discharged during one of these
storms produces a flood which tears
along the wádies like a raging torrent.
One of these floods, or “seils” as they
are called, was witnessed by the Rev.
F. W. Holland in 1867, when the
Wády Feirán, a valley 300 yards broad,
was for hours the bed of a resistless
torrent from eight to ten feet deep.

e. NATURAL HISTORY AND CLIMATE.

Notwithstanding the desert soil, there
are few parts of the Peninsula which
do not show some signs of Vegetation.
The valleys and the plains are sparsely
clothed with many varieties of almost
sapless herbs and shrubs; and the
granite mountains are particularly rich
in herbs. In addition to these there
are some trees and large shrubs, such
as the tarfah, or tamarisk, already referred
to as yielding the “manna,” the
retem, or broom, the “juniper tree” of
the Bible, and the seyal, or acacia, the
“shittah-tree” of the Bible. There
are many signs of the vegetation
having been formerly increased by
cultivation, and the gardens of the
Monastery of St. Catherine, and in the
valleys round Jebel Moosa are still kept
up and tended by the monks with considerable
care. These gardens, oases,
and dry herbage have, however, but
little effect on the general scenery of
the country, and mitigate in no appreciable
degree its arid and desolate
character. The beauty of the landscape
is derived from the effects of
light and air, and the colours and outline
of the rocks.
Animal life exists to no very great
extent in the Peninsula. Among the
mammals may be mentioned the spotted
hyena (dhaba), whose tracks are often
seen in the wádies; the ibex (beddán).
the “wild goat” of the Bible, to be
found among the higher mountains,
but very shy and wild; the dorcas
gazelle (ghazála) frequents the plains
between the mountains and the sea on
both coasts, and is very difficult of approach;
the Sinaitic hare (arneb), in
the upland plains; the coney (wabur,
jutah
), in the mountains; the jackal
(taáleb); the fox (aboo el-hosein);
the porcupine mouse, and others; the
leopard (nimr) is seen occasionally in
the mountains, and the wolf (deeb) is
not uncommon. The only birds that
the sportsman will find, and those but
very seldom, are the Greek partridge
(shinnár), in the higher mountains;
Hay's partridge (hajjah), more numerous
and more generally distributed
than the Greek, it seldom takes flight,
but runs at a great pace, and is difficult
to get near; the sand-grouse (gattáh),
common in the Tih desert, but not
easy to shoot; and the quail (summán),
very rare. A few duck and teal, and
other waterfowl, may sometimes be
seen in the neighbourhood of the Red
Sea. The other birds are chiefly chats,
finches, and warblers.
The Climate of the Peninsula, especially
of the mountain parts, is very
healthy. The old hermits, to whom
tradition assigns an almost fabulous
longevity, believed that man needed
in the desert “hardly to eat, drink, or
sleep, for the act of breathing will give
life enough.” One of its most remarkable
features is its intense dryness,
observations with wet- and dry-bulb
thermometers showing a difference of
20°, and even 30°. In winter it is
very cold in the mountains, and snow
often falls, though it is never seen
lower than 4000 feet. The heat in
summer is proportionately intense,
especially in the limestone districts;
and the khamseen winds, which occur
generally in the spring, render the
usually clear atmosphere stifling and
oppressive. There is a great difference
between the temperature of the day

and the night, especially in winter, the
thermometer sometimes falling below
freezing-point at night, to go up as
high as 70° in the shade during the
day. This change is not so great in
the plains. The prevailing winds are
from the north and east. As a rule,
the air is very still, with only a gentle
cooling breeze, but now and then
heavy gales suddenly spring up. The
rainfall is very slight, unless there
occurs one of those storms already
alluded to. Slight shocks of earthquake
are said to be occasionally felt.
Heavy dews are common in the winter.

f. RUINS.

The archæology of the Sinaitic
Peninsula is of considerable interest.
The ruins may be divided into four
classes. 1. Primitive remains, such
as stone circles, tombs, store-houses, the
nawámees, before referred to, archaic
sculpturings, &c., which may be referred
to the early inhabitants of the
country, perhaps the “Amalekites” of
the Bible. 2. Egyptian remains, such
as those of Maghárah and Sarábit el-Khádim.
3. Monastic ruins, consisting
of buildings erected by monks
and hermits from the 4th to the 7th
centuries A.D. And 4. Post-monastic,
consisting of the few ruins which have
a Mohammedan origin. Such ancient
remains as occur on the routes to Sinai
will be noticed in their place.

g. ROUTE OF THE IRAELITES FROM
EGYPT TO MOUNT SINAI.

But one more subject requires perhaps
to be referred to before starting on
the journey, and that is, the route followed
by the Israelites in the Exodus.
Many theories exist on this subject. It
will be well to give a short outline of
the principal of them. The starting
point in Egypt is called in the Bible
Rameses (Ex. xii. 37; Num. xxxiii.
3, 5). Various identifications have
been proposed for this town, the chief
of which are—(a), Babylon, now Old
Cairo: (b), Heliopolis, now Matareeyeh;
(c), Heröopolis, the site of which is
most probably at Tel el-Maskhutah in
the Wády el-Toomilat, where Mr. E.
Naville has discovered the remains of
the ancient city of Pithom (see p. 284);
and, lastly (d), Tanis, or Zoan, now
Sân.
Identification (a) supposes the route
after leaving Rameses to have been
down the Wády et-Tih, through the
Desert, to the Red Sea, which was then
crossed from the foot of Rás Attákah
below Suez to Ain Moosa, a distance
of more than 5 miles. A Bedawee
tradition supports this so far as the
scene of the passage is concerned.
(b) supposes the route to have led
down to near the present head of the
Red Sea, and the passage to have taken
place in the neighbourhood of Suez.
(c) places Rameses much farther northeast,
and supposes the route to have
lain first to some point in the neighbourhood
of the modern Bitter Lakes
or of Lake Timsah, which there formed
the head of the Red Sea, and thence
southward to a point near Shaloof on
the , where the Red Sea
must have been comparatively shallow
and sufficiently narrow to admit of
the whole host crossing over in one
night (Ex. xiv.). This is the solution
preferred by Mr. E. Naville, who has
thoroughly discussed the question in
his work ‘The Store City of Pithom
and the Route of the Exodus,' published
by the Committee of the Egyptian
Exploration Fund. He considers that
Succoth was a district in which was
Pithom, which he has identified as
being the same as Tel el-Maskhutah.
Etham he considers to have been the
region of Atuma, which began at Lake
Timsah, and extended west and south
of it. Migdol Mr. Naville places near
the station of Serapium on the railway
line to Suez, and the actual place of
crossing the sea at a point about half-way
between the Bitter Lakes and
Lake Timsah.
Identification (d) is one proposed by
Dr. Brugsch (see Brugsch's ‘History of
Egypt,' ii. 327), and approved by many
scholars, being based on indications
furnished by papyri and by inscriptions
on existing old Egyptian' monuments.
The hieroglyphic text on two statues
found at Sân, the ancient Tanis,

furnish the information that Rameses
II. gave his name to the town of Tanis,
called Zân in old Egyptian and Zoan
in Hebrew. Eastward of Zân, or Rameses,
was a district called in the geographical
lists extant on certain monuments
Thuku or Thukut, the same
probably as the Succoth of the Bible,
the spot where the fugitives first
stopped after leaving Rameses. Its
chief town, we learn from the same
sources, was Pithom, one of the treasure
cities built by the Israelites. A papyrus
in the British Museum mentions
Khatom as the second station on the
road from Rameses to Migdol, and
Khatom may be taken to be Etham,
mentioned as the Israelites' second
resting-place. Migdol, between which
and the sea was the next encampment,
was the “tower” or “fort” which,
according to several hieroglyphic inscriptions,
defended Egypt on the north,
and was situated probably somewhere
near the modern Kantarah on the Suez
Canal. Here then, according to Dr.
Brugsch, was the scene of the passage,
not across the Red Sea, as always
hitherto supposed, but across the Mediterranean,
or rather the marshes lying
between the Mediterranean and the
Serbonian bog, and which Strabo and
Diodorus both speak of as being often
inundated to a considerable depth.
Dr. Brugsch's theory as to the starting-point
and subsequent route of the
Israelites thus far has been a good
deal criticised. Among the objections
taken to it is the difficulty philologically
of identifying Succoth with
Thuku, and Etham with Khatom, and
the Yam Suf, “Sea of Weeds,” the
usual singular Hebrew name for the
Red Sea, and one used by the oldest
sacred writers in their accounts of the
passage, with the Mediterranean.
The first stage mentioned in the
Bible after the passage of the sea is
Marah, the waters of which were bitter.
This is identified by Dr. Brugsch with
the present Bitter Lakes; and Elim,
the next stage, where there “were
twelve wells of water and threescore
and ten palm-trees,” with Ain Moosa.
The theory which places the scene of
the passage at Shaloof identifies Marah
with Ain Moosa, and Elim with Wády
Ghurundel, while that which places it
at Suez fixes on Ain Hawárah or
Wády Amárah for the former, and on
Wády Ghurundel or Wády Useit for
the latter.
The next encampment spoken of was
“by the Red Sea” (Num. xxxiii. 10),
somewhere no doubt on the broad
level plain at the mouth of Wády
Taiyibeh.
The “Wilderness of Sin” is the
next stage in the journey, and this is
supposed to correspond with the open
plain called El-Markhah, extending
by the sea from Jebel el Markhah to
the entrance to Wády Feirán.
The next two places mentioned in
Numbers are Dophkah and Alush,
which cannot be identified; but as
they lay between the Wilderness
of Sin and Rephidim, they must be
looked for somewhere in the Wády
Feirán. There are four roads leading
from El-Markhah to Jebel Moosa,
and some writers have advocated the
claims of one or other of these to have
been that taken by the Israelites; but
everything seems in favour of the
Wády Feirán having been the one
chosen. It is a much easier road than
any of the others, and it was likely to
have been chosen in preference to the
other easy one by Seih Sidreh and
Wády Mukatteb, as avoiding the
Egyptian settlements at Maghárah.
Ancient tradition, and most modern
authors, agree in placing Rephidim
at Feirán. Its position answers to all
the requirements of the account of the
battle with the Amalekites (Ex. xvii.
8-16); and the rock which Moses
there struck to procure water being
called “the Rock of Horeb,” is thought
to present no difficulty, if, as is
supposed, “Horeb” is a general term
applied to the whole granite district
of the Peninsula, and not to any
one particular peak or mountain.
This is the view taken by Lepsius,
Stanley, and all the members of the
Ordnance Survey, except Mr. Holland,
who follows Burckhardt and Robinson
in placing Rephidim at El-Wateeyeh,
a narrow pass leading through the
granite wall which encloses the central

group of Sinaitic mountains to which,
in Mr. Holland's opinion, the term
“Horeb,” answering to “El-Jebal,”
properly belongs. The arguments in
favour of this view are, that El-Wateeyeh
is within an easy day's
journey of Jebel Moosa, a condition
which some think is required by the
Biblical narrative, and that Mohammedan
tradition points out a rock
there called “the Seat of the prophet
Moses.” Various other traditions, however,
say as much or more for Feirán,
and the account in Exodus xix. 2
does not seem necessarily to imply
that only one day elapsed between
leaving Rephidim and camping “before
the mount.”
From Feirán the main body of the
Israelites, with their flocks and herds,
probably passed up the Wády esh
Sheykh, while Moses and the Elders
went by the Wády Solaf and the Nugb
Hawa; the final camping-ground, at
which took place the giving of the
Law, being the plain of Er-Ráhah at
the foot of the peak of Jebel Moosa,
called Rás Sufsáfeh. It would take
too long here to examine at length the
claims of the different mountains that
have been put forward to represent
Mount Sinai,” “the Mount of the
Giving of the Law.” They are five
in number,—Jebel el-Ejmah, Jebel
Umm Alawee, Jebel Katareena, Jebel
Serbál, and Jebel Moosa. The last
two have had the most advocates: but
all recent research and discovery seems
to disallow the claim of any but Jebel
Moosa. Its peak of Rás Sufsáfeh alone
seems to meet all the requirements of
the case, viz., a well-defined precipitous
mountain summit, overlooking a
large open space, on which a vast host
like that of the Israelites could encamp,
and find sustenance for their flocks
and herds in the surrounding valleys.
It does not come within the scope of
the present route to trace the road followed
by the Israelites farther than
Mount Sinai; and, indeed, the materials
for the identification of any of
their subsequent resting-places are so
slight that hardly one site can be
fixed with any certainty.

h. ROUTES FROM SUEZ TO JEBEL MOOSA
(MOUNT SINAI), AND THE CONVENT
OF ST. CATHERINE.

There are several roads by which
Mount Sinai may be reached from
Suez; but it will be sufficient here to
describe the two which are most usually
followed by travellers, the one in going
to, and the other in returning from
Mount Sinai, merely indicating the
names and distances along the other
roads. And of these two principal
roads the first and the last parts coincide,
the difference in direction occurring
between Wády Shebeikeh and the
mouth of Nugb Hawa.
Route (α) viâ Wády Mukatteb and
Feirán.
Miles.
Suez to Ain Moosa [Elim or
Marah]
8
Wády Sadur 21
Wády Amárah [Marah] 20
Ain Hawárah [Marah] 6
Wády Ghurundel [Elim] 7
Wády Useit [Elim] 6
Wády Ethal 7
Wády Shebeikeh (mouth of) 4
Wády Taiyibeh (mouth of) [Encampment
by the Sea]
4
Jebel el-Markhah 7
Seih Babsa 6
Wády Shellâl (mouth of) 2
Nugb Buderah 4
Wády Igue (mouth of, leading
to Maghárah)
5
Wády Mukatteb 5
Wády Feirán 4
Feirán (El - Maharrad [Rephidim] 14
Wády esh-Sheykh (mouth of) 6
Wády Solaf (head of) and mouth
of Nugb Hawa
15
Nugb Hawa (summit of) 5
Jebel Moosa and Monastery of
St. Catherine
5
161
Route (β) viâ Sarâbit el-Khádim.
Miles.
Ain Moosa to Wády Shebeikeh
(see (α))
79
Sarboot el-Jemel 7
Miles.
Wády Suwig (mouth of) 13
Sarábit el-Khádim (foot of) 6
Debábat Sheykh Ahmed 7
Erweis el-Ebeirig 21
Wády Solaf (head of) and
mouth of Nugb Hawa
12
Jebel Moosa, &c., viâ Nugb
Hawa (see (α))
10
155
If the traveller does not intend returning
to Cairo, but means to continue
on across the desert to Hebron,
he had better, unless Egyptian antiquities
are especially his object, choose
Rte. (α) as affording the most general
objects of interest.
Route (α).
For the road from Suez to Ain Moosa
and a description of the latter place
(see p. 288).
On leaving Ain Moosa the traveller
turns his back on civilisation, and
enters on the wide desert. And
nothing can well be more dreary
and monotonous than the first day's
journey. At first the plain is a little
broken, but after a few miles, at Wády
ed-Dehseh
, a flat desolate expanse is
entered on, unrelieved by any feature.
The march is toilsome enough, even if
the weather be clear and fine; but if,
as is frequently the case, a khamseen
wind gets up, making the atmosphere
oven-like in its heat and oppressiveness,
and enveloping everything in a
shroud of sand, then indeed the first
day's journey in the desert is anything
but a pleasant and encouraging experience,
and the “flesh-pots” of
Egypt will be looked back upon with
regret. So many travellers mention
having met with a khamseen wind and
sand-storm in this part of the desert,
that it seems as if it were a phenomenon
peculiar to this special region.
From Wády ed-Dehseh three roads
lead to the springs of Wády Ghurundel.
The westernmost passes along the
coast to near Jebel Hammám Pharoon,
and then turns up Wády Ghurundel:
the easternmost, which branches off a
little north of Wády ed-Dehseh, runs
in the direction of Jebel Bagah in the
Tih, and then passes near the outskirts
of the Tih range to the upper part of
Wády Ghurundel: and the central
and shortest, which, as the one usually
followed, will be described.
The sandy bed of Wády Sadur
(21 miles) is generally chosen as the
first camping-place after leaving Ain
Moosa. A few stunted tamarisks and
other shrubs are dotted about, and at
the head of the wády is the isolated
peak of Jebel Bisher. The Táset
Sadur
(the Cup of Sadur), another
similar peak, lies ten miles farther
inland. In this neighbourhood are the
headquarters of the Terabeen Arabs.
The Wády Sadur has of late years
acquired a painful interest for Englishmen,
as it was the scene of the murder
of the late Professor Palmer, the well-known
Arabic scholar, Captain Gill,
R.E., and Lieutenant Charrington,
R.N., in August, 1882. Professor
Palmer and his companions went into
the desert with the double object of
buying camels for the English expedition,
and of getting the Bedaween of
the desert the join the English against
Araby Pasha. The ill-fated party left
Suez on the 8th August, and arrived
at Wády Sadur on the 10th August.
Here they were taken prisoners, and
murdered on the following day.
Whether the Arabs killed them for
the sake of the money they had with
them, or in consequence of orders from
Cairo, is not positively known, but full
particulars of the crime were obtained
by Colonel Sir C. Warren, R.E., and
five of the principal culprits were
hanged at Zagazig on the 1st March,
1883. The most marked feature after
leaving Wády Sadur is Wády Wardán
(8 miles), a broad depression strewn
with boulders. From this point there
is an effective view of the Tih and
Er-Ráhah cliffs, and the bold outlines
of Jebel Bisher occupying the gap
between them. Gazelle may sometimes
be seen in this neighbourhood.
Wády Amárah (12 miles), which may
have been the site of “Marah,” is the
next halting-place for the night; or
the camp may be pitched near the

Hagar er-Rekkab (3 miles) (“the Stone
of the Rider”), a group of low rocks
whose shade affords a tempting resting-place.
The country after passing
Wády Amárah is not quite so monotonous.
The plain undulates, and is
diversified by hills and plateaux glittering
in many places with crystals of
gypsum; on the left spurs come down
from the Tih, and low ranges of hills
run down on the right to the sea, whose
blue and sparkling waters may now and
then be caught glimpses of; in front
rise the high dark outlines of Jebel
Hammám Pharoon. We are near the
end of the “Wilderness of Shur,” in
which the Israelites “went three days
and found no water.” Ain Hawárah
(3 miles) is also considered to have
claims to be identified with “Marah.”
It is an insignificant spring, situated
on an eminence, and overshadowed by
one or two desert palms. The water
is nasty and bitter, like that of all the
other springs in the limestone district.
Passing on the way the Engee el-Fool
(“the Bean-field”), a small basin which
collects sufficient moisture from the
neighbouring hills to support a little
Arab cultivation, we reach Wády
Ghurundel
(5 miles), a broad well-defined
valley, at this point about 600
yards wide, and running between
chalky cliffs 60 to 80 feet high. There
is plenty of desert herbage, and small
clusters of stunted palms are frequent.
In this valley grows plentifully the
ghúkud, a plant with a small red
berry, which some suppose to have
been the “tree” used by Moses to
sweeten the waters at Marah. This
plant, however, has no such properties.
The Springs of Wády Ghurundel (2
miles) form usually the third halting-place
of the traveller, as here the stock
of water can be renewed, and the
camels refresh theh from Ain Moosa. In
spring time the supply of water is
abundant, and bursts forth in several
places. In the cliffs on the left,
above the springs, are some old tombs.
Wády Ghurundel has been fixed upon
as one of the most probable sites
for “Elim”; and the oasis which
meets the eye of the traveller, if he
should make an excursion down the
wády to Jebel Hammám Pharoon, will
answer to the requirements of the
spot. The valley narrows a short
distance below the springs, the cliffs
rise in height, and a running stream
gives life to thickets of palms and
tamarisks, and beds of reeds and bulrushes,
abounding in waterfowl and
other birds, and through which the
water gurgles, with brooks, and pools,
and tiny waterfalls. The water ends
about a mile from the mouth of the
wády, which issues upon the sea-plain,
a gentle-sloping alluvial tract of sand
and gravel about 3/4 mile broad.
Four miles along this plain to the
S.W. is Jebel Hammám Pharoon (the
Mountain of Pharaoh's Hot-bath), a
splendid cliff of crystalline limestone
about 1570 feet high. The hot springs
gush out of passages in the rocks in
the northern end, and out of the sand.
The two principal springs are the
hottest, with a temperature of about
160°. The water has an unpleasant
taste and a sulphurous smell, and is
by the Bedaween credited with marvellous
medicinal properties. The name
is derived from a Bedaween legend
which places the destruction of
Pharaoh and his host at this spot, and
attributes the heat and sulphurous
smell of the water to their troubled
spirits lying beneath the waves. The
bluffs of Jebel Hammám Pharoon, and
the neighbouring peak of Jebel Useit,
present a continuous and abrupt front
to the sea, five miles long, and impassable.
Returning to the main route we pass,
soon after leaving Wády Ghurundel,
on to the high rolling plain of El-Gargal.
The scenery here is picturesque;
in front rises the triple peak
of Sarboot el-Jemel, while the outlines
of Jebel Serbál and Jebel el-Benát can
be faintly seen to the S.E.; on the left
are the spurs of the Tih, and on the
right the ridges of Jebel Hammám
Pharoon
and Jebel Useit.
Near this point is a heap of stones
called Hossán Sheykh Aboo Zenneh
(“Horse of Sheykh Aboo Zenneh”),
which, according to an Arab story,
marks the spot where the mare of

Aboo Zenneh, having been cruelly
over-ridden by its owner, broke down,
and on being violently spurred, gave
one final bound and expired. The
cruel rider marked out the leap, which
was of marvellous length, with stones,
and the Bedaween as they pass throw
a stone or some sand on the heap in
token of disapproval, with the ejaculation
“food for the horse of Aboo
Zenneh.”
Wády Useit (6 miles) is the first
broad valley crossed. It is sparsely
covered with vegetation, and just
above the crossing-place are some
brackish wells, with a few palms.
This place is another candidate for
being the site of “Elim.” Wády
Ethal
(7 miles) is the next feature:
it is about 1/2 a mile wide, and has the
usual desert vegetation. Both these
wádies issue through narrow gorges,
between high limestone cliffs, on to
the sea-plain. A short distance beyond
Wády Ethal is a heap of stones called
Arees et-Temmán (“the Bride of
Temman”), so called from a female
devotee who used to sit and beg at this
spot, and was buried there. The mouth
of Wády Shebeikeh (the “Valley of
the Net”) (4 miles) is reached after a
labyrinthine course through chalky
hillocks and ridges, vertical cliffs, and
great quarry-like recesses. At this
point branches off Route (β), to be
hereafter described.
The present route turns southward
down Wády Taiyibeh (the “Pleasant”
or “Fruitful Valley”). After 2 1/2 miles
down this valley, between walls of
limestone rock from whose dazzling
face there is a terrible glare, a cluster
of stunted palms and tamarisks is
reached, amongst which bubble up a
few springs of brackish water: and a
short distance farther on are one or two
more springs, and a few more palms and
tamarisks. Yet another mile or so between
hot vertical cliffs, with the bright
green caper-plant clinging to their
faces, and then, passing on the left a
fine bluff of lava and conglomerates,
arranged in bright bands of red, black,
and brown, we reach the mouth of
Wády Taiyibeh (4 miles), and come
out upon the coast-plain of El-Murkheiyeh.
On this plain, somewhere
near the mouth of the Wády Taiyibeh,
is placed the site of “the Encampment
by the Sea,” and somewhere about the
same spot the traveller will pitch his
next encampment after leaving Wády
Ghurundel.
A hot and weary march follows over
the plains of El-Murkheiyeh and El-Markhah.
A short distance down the
coast is the low headland called Rás
Aboo Zeneemeh.
The tomb of the
saint from whom it is named is to the
right of the road, and is hung round
with a miscellaneous collection of offerings.
Farther on, the road crosses
a low promontory of limestone rocks,
which at one point rise and approach
the sea so closely that camels have to
go through the water at high tide. We
now reach the bold white cliffs of Jebel
el-Markhah
(7 miles), and crossing the
promontory which juts out from it enter
the plain of El-Markhah, a wretched
desolate expanse of flints and sand,
almost without vegetation. For about
two hours the road traverses this plain
in a S.E. direction, and a weary trudge
it is. The sun is scorchingly hot, and
blazes down upon the traveller from a
sky whose blue expanse is unchequered
by a single cloud. On the right the
waters of the gulf, of an even deeper
azure, seem to simmer in a mirror-like
motionless expanse, that is hardly
broken by a ripple even where they
reach the shore. The soil around is
dry, baked, and glowing. Fortunate
is he who does not have to encounter
a khamseen wind to add to the exhausting
heat, but meets rather with
the fresh sea-breeze, which generally
rises in the afternoon, and changes the
character of the scene.
At last the entrance of Seih Baba
(6 miles) is reached. At its mouth on
the right-hand side is a slag heap,
containing traces of copper. Ten miles
farther down the plain is the mouth of
the Wády Feirán, up which, according
to the most probable conjecture, the
Israelites marched. We therefore here
quit for a time their track, and advance
up the Seih Baba, a narrow
valley between hills of limestone, which
soon widens out at the mouth of the

Wády Shellál (the Valley of the Cataracts)
(2 miles), so called from a remarkable
fall, above which the wády
takes the name of Sahow. There is a
footpath to the head of Wády Nasb. Up
this valley lies the road, between sandstone
and limestone rocks of fantastic
form and colours. The scenery begins
to be very fine, and to afford a sample
of the grander features of the Sinaitic
country. The path rises rapidly over
a rugged tract of ground, and then
comes suddenly to the foot of Nugb
Buderah
(4 miles), an abrupt cliff of
variegated sandstone, about 100 ft.
high. Up its face winds a steep path,
here and there supported by a rubble
wall, and quite practicable (thanks to
the care bestowed on it by the late
Major Macdonald, who lived at Maghárah)
for baggage-camels. At the
summit is a very small plain, from
which the road leads through a narrow
winding pass, shut in by beautifully
coloured rocks, into the Wády Nugb
Buderah
(2 1/2 miles), and then turns
to the left up the Seih Sidreh (1 mile).
Here is obtained the first glimpse
of the red granite of the Peninsula.
At first it is only seen on the left
bank of Seih Sidreh, then it appears
on the right, after which it ends,
and the gorge sweeping round a cliff
of sandstone issues on a broad valley.
At the upper end of the gorge comes
in on the left a small valley, Wády
Igne
(1 1/2 mile).
If the camp should be pitched for the
night somewhere near this spot, the
traveller may think it worth while to
devote a few hours to visiting the old
Egyptian Turquoise Mines of Maghárah,
which are not far distant. Half
a mile from its mouth the Wády Igne
divides, and a few yards up its northern
branch, called Wády Genaiyeh, are the
turquoise mines, situated at from 150
to 200 feet above the valley, in some
sandstone cliffs on the western side.
At the fork of the valley is a conical
hill, strewed with the ruins of buildings
occupied by the captive miners
and their guards; and at the foot of
the hill are the remains of the house
occupied by the late Major Macdonald,
who worked the mines for some time.
From the ruins a bank of loose stones
runs down into the valley and up again
to the mines, a causeway apparently
for the passage of the miners, intended
to save the labour of climbing up and
down the steep banks. From the house
a camel-road leads up the valley to a
good spring of water three miles distant.
Maghárah signifies a “mine”
or “cave,” and is a term applied, not
to one particular spot, but to the whole
district in which the mines are situated.
Besides the workings at this spot,
others may be seen in the Seih Sidreh,
near the mouth of Wády Igne, and in
Wády Umm Themáim, which enters
Seih Sidreh about a mile lower down.
According to the hieroglyphic tablets
at Maghárah, the first Egyptian monarch
who invaded the Peninsula was
Seneferoo, the last king of the IIIrd
Dynasty, who put up a tablet recording
his conquest of the country, and
discovery of the mines. Cheops, or
Shoofoo, the builder of the Great
Pyramid, also has a tablet close to the
entrance of the cave. There are records
of various other monarchs of the
Vth and VIth Dynasties, who either
continued or re-established the works.
From the VIth to the XIIth Dynasty
they appear to have been abandoned.
In the 2nd year of Amenemhat III. of
the XIIth Dynasty an expedition appears
to have been sent to reconquer
the place, and there are various tablets
of this monarch's reign referring to
the working of the mines. The name
of his successor Amenemhat IV. also
appears among the inscriptions. A
gap in the records again occurs until
the XVIIIth Dynasty, when there
is an inscription recording an expedition
to the mine during the joint
reigns of Hatasoo and Thothmes III.
From that time Maghárah was abandoned
by the Egyptians. We gather
from these records that the Egyptians
worked the mines at intervals during a
period of from 1000 to 2000 years, and
that it is more than 3000 years since
they ceased working at them. The material
which they sought to obtain at
the mines is always called mafka in
the hieroglyphics, and is no doubt the
turquoise of inferior quality, which

may still be obtained. The presiding
goddess, of both the region and the
stone which it produced, was Athor,
who is constantly mentioned in the
inscriptions, and with whom are associated
Thoth and Sept. It is a curious
fact that among the débris of the
mines are several specimens of a freshwater
shell now found in the Nile, the
Spatha Chaziana (Lea), with the nacre
quite fresh. Unless these were brought
from the Nile, which is hardly probable,
we must suppose that at one
time there was sufficient water at Maghárah
for them to live in.
Leaving the point where the Wády
Igne joins the Seih Sidreh, we continue
along the latter till its junction
with the Wády Mukatteb (the “Written
Valley”) (5 miles), a broad shallow
watercourse, with terraced cliffs, piled
up at the base with crumbling blocks
and fragments. It derives its name
from the so-called Sinaitic Inscriptions
with which its rocks abound. These
inscriptions are to be found in more or
less abundance all the way from Wády
Igne to the head of Wády Mukatteb,
but the greater number of them occur
in clusters in the space of about a mile
at the lower end of this wády. They
are generally found in the lower strata
of sandstone. At one time supposed
to be of great antiquity, the balance
of opinion now inclines to their being
the work of Christian hermits and pilgrims
of not earlier than the 4th century.
The language in which they are
written, according to Prof. Palmer, is
a dialect of the Aramaic tongue, and
the letters a link between the ordinary
Hebrew and Kufic. The inscriptions
consist generally of the writer's name,
with some conventional formula attached.
From the watershed at the
head of Wády Mukatteb the view is
very beautiful, presenting striking contrasts
of form and colour. On the E.
is a magnificent red granite mountain,
Jebel Merzegah.
The road now descends from the
watershed, and enters a wide boulder-strewn
valley towards-Wády Feirán
(4 miles), the grandest of all the
Sinaitic wádies. About a mile up
the valley, at the mouth of Wády
Nisreen
, are some stone circles and
cairns, probably sepulchral monuments
of a very early date. There are some
14 or 15 circles closely grouped together,
and of from 10 to 20 ft. in
diameter. In the centre of each is a
cist, about 4 ft. long, 2 1/2 ft. broad, and
2 1/2 ft. deep, composed of four large
stones, and a covering slab. Inside
the cists have been found human bones,
teeth, &c., and in one instance a small
bracelet of copper, lance and arrowheads,
and a necklace of marine shells.
Though the bones were decomposed,
the outline of the body could be traced,
placed on its left side, in the bent
position usually considered one of the
oldest forms of burial.
The Wády Feirán now opens out
into a succession of long open reaches,
with Jebel Serbál and its neighbouring
peaks filling up the background. The
soil is a crisp granite gravel, with here
and there tracts strewn with boulders
or shingle. The rich colouring of the
sandstone rocks is now exchanged for
the somewhat more sober hues, but
more varied outlines, of granite, gneiss,
&c. As we advance farther the bed
of the wády narrows, and the scenery
becomes grander at every step. At a
sharp angle of the valley, on its right
bank, is a large block of fallen granite,
covered with a heap of pebbles and
small stones. This is called Hesy el-Khattáteen
(11 miles), and is declared
by the Bedaween to be the identical
rock struck by Moses to supply the
thirsty Israelites (Ex. xvii. 6). It
should be noted that we are again on
the most probable route taken by the
Israelites, who are supposed to have
come up Wády Feirán from the sea.
Contrary to most of the traditional
sites in the peninsula, this rock is
just where we should expect to find
it. The Amalekites, encamped three
miles higher up the valley at Rephidim
(Feirán), cut off all access to the
water supply there, and the eager
thirst of the Israelites, after three
weary marches without coming to any
springs, may well at last have caused
the murmurings described in the sacred
narrative, when they found themselves
cut off from the hoped-for oasis, The

grandeur and desolation of the scenery
now becomes almost overpowering, and
the eye rests with pleasure on the little
oasis of El-Hesweh, to be followed not
long after by the welcome sight of the
great palm-grove of Feirán, a rich
mass of dark-green foliage winding
eastward through the hills. A rugged
valley, Wády Aleyát, at whose head
stands Jebel Serbál, here comes in
from the south-east; and in the centre
of the open space caused by their
junction stands a low hill, El-Maharrad
(3 miles), crowned with ruins
In this pleasant oasis the traveller
will pitch his tent with delight, and,
if he can, devote at least one, still
better two days to an examination of
the surrounding district.
Ascent of Jebel Serbál.—This will
occupy a whole day, and should not be
undertaken by any but good walkers
and climbers, as the way is hard and
toilsome, and the climbing near the
summit requires a steady head, and
some experience in mountaineering.
The ascent from Feirán will take about
5 hrs. Jebel Serbál is in many ways the
most striking mountain of the Peninsula;
it rises abruptly to a height of
4000 ft. above the valleys at its base, and
its summit, a ridge about 3 miles long, is
broken into a series of beautifully outlined
peaks of nearly the same height.
The loftiest, 6734 ft., is towards the
eastern extremity of the ridge. Some
writers have identified Serbál with the
Mount Sinai of the Bible, but all
the best recent authorities agree in
considering that the topographical requirements
of the Bible narrative are
not met by its position. There is no
large plain in its vicinity on which the
Israelites could have encamped in sight
of the mountain: a sufficiently fatal
objection in itself.
The way to Jebel Serbál lies up the
Wády Aleyát, a broad rugged valley,
with a few trees and a little herbage.
At the upper part of the wády, which
rises rapidly in its 3 miles' course, are
some springs of cool water and a few
palms. The path now enters the lower
slopes of Serbál. Hence to the summit
basin from which the peaks rise
there are two principal paths, or goat-tracks,
one by a steep rocky ravine
called Aboo Hamátah (the “Road of
the Wild Fig-tree”), and the other and
longer one by two less precipitous paths
called Sikket Sadur and Sikket er-Reshsháh
(“the Road of the Sweater”).
The principal peak is an enormous
smooth dome of granite surrounded by
a cupola of like nature. The climbing
here is not easy, and it is only the
coarse nature of the rock, which affords
a good foothold, that makes it possible
to get up or down, there being nothing
to cling to. In a few places there are
steps of loose stones, laid probably
ages ago, which make the task easier.
A narrow ledge runs out from near
the summit of the peak for about 50
yards, ending in a sheer precipice of
4000 ft. On this are the ruins of the
lighthouse, which gives its name El-Madhawwa
to the highest peak of
Serbál. It was one in a system of
beacon-fires kept up from Matáli Hudherah,
or “Look-outs of Hazeroth.” to
Suez, and along the sea-coast. It is
a rude stone structure, probably built
by the same men who traced the Sinaitic
inscriptions, several of which
are found on the path up to the summit,
and in a hollow near the light-house.
Capt. H. S. Palmer thus
describes the view from the top of
Serbál:—” From the summit of Serbál
the landscape on a clear day is one of
the most striking and varied, if not the
most extensive in the country. Looking
seaward, a wild chaos of rock and
mountain fills the foreground: then
comes the hot brown El-Gá'ah; then
Tor and its palm-groves, faintly seen,
and the low coast range farther north;
then the glittering water of the gulf,
backed in the far distance by grey
and purple ranges of African mountains.
Looking inland, the eye roams
over an amazing complication of desert
mountains and valleys—a vast network,
of which the white and grey
wády-beds, winding in fanciful snaky
patterns over the whole face of the
country, form the threads, while mountains
of all sizes, forms, and hues fill
the interstices; northward the far
prospect is closed by the long blank

of the Tih escarpment; the peaks
of Katharína and Umm Shomer rise
darkly in the south-east; at your feet
is Feirán, a thin green line of palms
straggling through the hills.”
The derivation of the word Serbál is,
according to Professor E. H. Palmer,
whose etymology has been adopted in
this account of the Peninsula, from
the Arabic word sirbál, a “shirt” or
“coat of mail,” in allusion to the
gushing of the waters, during a storm,
over the round smooth rocks of the
summit, which clothe it, as it were,
with a shirt, or coat of mail, of glittering
fluid. The name has also been
derived from Serb Ba'al, or palm-grove
of Baal.
The objects of interest close to Feirán
itself are many, but they can only be
briefly alluded to here. The evidence
in favour of its being the Rephidim of
the Bible has been already pointed
out; but there is one more feature,
and that an important one, that should
be mentioned. On the right bank of
the wády, opposite the hillock of El-Maharrad,
is a conical hill called Jebel
et-Taooneh
(“the Mountain of the
Windmill”) about 600 ft. high, so
placed as to be in full view of the two
valleys Aleyát and Feirán, where the
battle between the Israelites and the
Amalekites would have been fought,
and accessible from a point near El-Hesweh,
lower down the Wády Feirán.
Access to this hill would have been
easy to Moses, and from its summit
he could have witnessed the battle
raging below (see Ex. xvii. 9–12). An
early tradition favours this view, and
Antoninus Martyr (600 A.D.) states
that a chapel stood on the spot from
which Moses viewed the battle. Ruins
of such a chapel still exist on the
summit of Jebel et-Tahooneh. Its
aisles divided by square pillars of red
sandstone can still be traced, and the
form of the apse. It was afterwards
altered and turned into a mosque. The
whole of the path, or rather flight of
steps, which leads up from Wády Feirán
to the top of Jebel et-Tahooneh is
lined with the remains of small chapels,
often built over the cells or tombs of
anchorites, and serving as “stations”
on the way to the principal church at
the summit. All this seems to prove
that Jebel et-Tahooneh was regarded
as a place of great sanctity by the pilgrims
of early ages.
The Ruins of Feirán itself are those
of the old episcopal city of Pharan.
The old convent and church stand
on the top of the hillock (El-Maharrad)
already mentioned, at the junction
of the wádies. The principal
walls of the convent still remain, built
of flat stones and mud, with sundried
bricks at the top. The church
is at the northern end, and, from the
number of capitals, broken shafts, and
other remains found within its walls,
appears to have been a building of
some importance. On a low neck of
land which connects the hillock with
the wády are the remains of the town,
surrounded by a wall which was 7 ft.
high; parts of it remain, the composite
of mud and small stones being here
faced with large unhewn boulders.
Both within and without the walls are
the remains of buildings, and to the
west, in a “jorf” or bank of alluvium,
is the cemetery; the tombs are partly
cut perpendicularly in the face of the
rock, and partly built with large stones,
and the entrances are either closed by
large slabs of stone, or built up with
mud and stones. These tombs are
often used by the Bedaween. On the
right bank of the Wády Feirán is a
deserted village, which probably formed
part of the old city, but which bears
traces of having been occupied at a
later period by a settled Arab population.
The hill called Jebel el-Moneijah
(the “Hill of the Conference”), in the
east bank of Wády Aleyát, is remarkable
for the number of Sinaitic inscriptions
found on it. There is a small
enclosure on the top, both within and
without which the inscriptions abound.
It is looked upon by the Bedaween as a
place of great sanctity, and they sacrifice
a lamb in front of the enclosure at
the time of the date-harvest in Wády
Feirán.
On both banks of Wády Feirán are
the homes of numerous anchorites who

once lived there, and sat “like a lot of
rabbits at the mouths of their holes.”
There are also a number of tombs
generally with two tiers of “loculi;”
they lie almost invariably east and
west, and the method of burial appears
to have been to lay the bodies on their
backs on the bare rock, heads to the
west, feet to the east, the arms
stretched out at full length by the side.
There are the remains of several
monastic establishments in the neighbourhood
of Wády Feirán, of which
the most remarkable are in Wády
Sigilleeyeh
to the south of Serbál, an
almost inaccessible gorge approached
by a road the construction of which,
as shown by what still remains of it,
proves the monks to have been both
skilled and energetic in road-making.
The natural beauties of the Oasis of
Feirán
are enough almost to induce the
traveller to spend a day in doing
nothing else but give himself up to
their delights. For 4 miles, beginning
from the mouth of Wády Aleyát, it
extends up the valley, a luxuriant mass
of trees and vegetation, hemmed in
between magnificent rugged granite
cliffs from 600 to 800 ft. in height.
Here all the trees common to the Peninsula
show at their best, and the date-bearing
palm is of unusual size and
fruitfulness. A varied undergrowth of
herbs and grasses, moss, turf, small
flowers, rushes, and other marshy
plants, cover the bed of the valley,
save where some stone-strewn dry
torrent-bed marks the course of and
the ravages of recent floods, such as
that which occurred in 1867. Here
and there are clusters of rough Bedaween
houses, with enclosed gardens, in
which are grown maize and tobacco,
irrigated by means of water raised by
shadoofs.
Through this long valley, the Paradise
of the Bedaween, the traveller
bends his way on leaving Feirán, till,
after about 3 miles, the palms and
water cease, and the only verdure is a
tamarisk-grove. In another mile this
also ends, and all is again barren and
desolate. At this point occur a series
of curious alluvial deposits, consisting
of banks of soil rising sometimes to a
height of 100 ft, and extending along
the wády's brink. By the Bedaween
they are called “jorfs.” Their origin
is uncertain, but Mr. Holland attributes
their formation to the beds of
alluvium gradually formed by slowly
flowing streams being washed away by
the rushing torrents that sweep down
the wádies during a storm. El-Buweib
—an islet of gneiss in mid-channel—
forms “the gate” of Wády Feirán,
through which the road passes into
the Wády Soláf; and a short distance
farther on the mouth of Wády esh-Sheykh
(6 miles) is reached.
It is conjectured that the bulk of the
Israelite host passed up this valley by a
longer and easier route to Sinai, while
Moses and the elders went by the
shorter and more difficult route on
which we now enter.
We continue up the Wády Soláf,
which opens out into long straight
reaches. At the mouth of Wády Umm
Tákkeh
are a number of the primitive
stone houses called nawámees, before
alluded to. They resemble the
“bothan” or beehive houses of Scotland.
Their usual shape is an ellipse
or irregular circle from 40 to 50 ft. in
circumference, with walls 2 1/2 to 3 ft.
thick: these walls rise perpendicularly
for 2 ft., and then begin to close in,
each successive course of stone projecting
slightly beyond the one below it,
till only a small hole, covered with a
flat stone, is left at the top. The doors
are about 1 3/4 ft. wide, and the same in
height, with lintels and door-posts.
Sometimes a large granite boulder
forms a portion of a wall. There is no
evidence of any tool having been used
in their construction.
About 3 miles beyond these stone
houses the direction of the wády
changes, and approaches the wall of
granite cliffs which from the northwestern
frontier of the heart of the
Peninsula. Through this massive barrier,
14 miles in length, and which
rises some 3000 ft. above the level of
Wády Soláf, there are but two openings;
one through the pass of Nugh
el-Hawa about half-way along the
barrier, and the other through the pass

of El-Wateeyeh, in the Wády esh-Sheykh,
at its extreme northern end
At the entrance of the Nugb Hawa
(14 miles) the camp will probably be
pitched on the day of leaving Feirán;
and even if it should be necessary the
next day to send the baggage-camels
by the longer and easier route, the
traveller himself will do well to follow
the magnificent approach by Nugb
Hawa
(“the Pass of the Wind”).

PLAN of MOUNT SINAI, and of the surrounding Valleys and Hills.
(From the Ordnance Survey of the Royal Engineers.)

At the turn from Wády Soláf are
some stone circles and nawámees. The
foot of the pass is about a mile from
the wády. The first part of the ascent
is steep and difficult, and winds up an
ancient road in and out amongst tremendous
blocks and boulders detached
from the heights and precipices which
hem in the defile. A few wild fig-trees
and stunted palms, with straggling
patches of vegetation, mark the bed of
the torrent. After a time the ascent
becomes less steep, and after a long
2 hours' climb the summit of the pass
(5 miles) is reached, and the cliffs of

Rás Sufsáfeh are seen closing the prospect
in the far distance. After a short
descent the path rises again along the
Wády Aboo Seileh, which soon widens
into a plain, and then the crest of the
hill is reached (5140 ft. above the level
of the sea), and the whole plain of
Er-Rahah, with Jebel Sufsáfeh only
2 miles off, and the monastery of St.
Catherine nestling in the Wády ed-Dayr,
lies spread out before the astonished
gaze. “It is a view which, once
seen, is not likely to be forgotten.
Indeed, the whole prospect from this
point is so beautiful and sublime that
no beholder can fail to be impressed by
it. It is indeed unrivalled; there is
nothing else like it in this or any other
part of the Peninsula—the long wide
plain sloping down to the mount, the
grand outlines of the surrounding hills,
and the stately cliffs of the Rás Sufsáfeh,
the ‘brow' of Sinai or Jebel
Moosa, overlooking and seen from every
point in the plain below, the most conspicuous
and imposing feature in a
landscape where all is grand.”—Capt.
H. S. Palmer.
Crossing Er-Raháh we
reach the foot of Rás Sufsáfeh, and
leaving the Wády esh-Sheykh on the
left continue up the Wady ed-Dayr
to the walls of the Monastery of St.
Catherine
(5 miles); unless indeed the
traveller decides to encamp, rather than
seek the hospitality of the monks, in
which case the tents will probably be
pitched at the entrance of the Wády
ed-Dayr.
Before proceeding to describe the
convent, and Jebel Moosa and its
neighbourhood, it may be well to give
a short account of the other route,
which leaves the one already noticed
at Wády Shebeikeh, and rejoins it at
the Nugb Hawa.
Route (β).
On leaving Wády Shebeikeh the
road turns up Wády Hamr, a fine open
valley with low chalk cliffs, till it
reaches the base of Sarboot el-Jemel
(7 miles), a ridge of limestone and flint
conglomerate rising 1200 feet above
the valley. Passing round this mountain
to the south-east, the wády contracts
again between sandstone rocks,
on which are some Sinaitic inscriptions,
and opens on to the great sandy
plain of Debbet er-Ramleh . The way
lies along the western side of this
plain, gradually ascending a terraced
rocky tract till about midway the
highest point is reached (1797 feet),
commanding a fine view of the plain
stretching eastward, with the lofty
Tih escarpment beyond, and on the
south the mountains of Wády Nasb
and Sarábit el-Khádim. A steep descent
now leads to Wády Búbba, and
then after a short time an open seih is
reached, formed by the confluence of
five wádies. This point forms the
north-western limit of the Egyptian
mining colony, which, extending south-wards
to Maghárah (see Rte. (a)) and
eastwards to Sarábit el-Khádim, is the
most interesting in the country for an
archæologist. A short distance from
the road to the right, up Wády Nasb,
are some old mine-workings and slag
heaps. It is the great watering-place
of this district, and the water is excellent.
We now leave the plain and turn
up Wády Suwig (13 miles), a winding
valley cut through sandstone. Leaving
the baggage-camels to proceed along
an easier route by Wády Mery to Wády
Khameeleh, the traveller toils through
deep sand to the mouth of the small
rocky ravine which leads to Sarábit el-Khádim
(6 miles). Here even the
riding-camels must be left, and the
rest of the distance done on foot.
There is a fifteen or twenty minutes'
walk up the wády, and then half-an-hour's
tiresome climb up a rough incline,
surmounted by a steep sandstone
cliff. On the top of the plateau,
which is 700 feet above the wády, are
the
Ruins of Sarábit el-Khádim.
These consist of two temples of different
dates: the earlier merely a rockhewn
chamber with an open vestibule
in front; the latter a large building,
connected with the former, but not in
the same straight line with it. Both
appear to have been reconstructed.
In the centre of the rock-hewn

chamber a square pillar of solid rock
has been left to support the roof; both
this and the walls of the chamber were
formerly covered with hieroglyphics
and coloured. At the end of the
chamber are two recesses; one of
which, formerly provided with a door,
leads to a small space roofed over with
large flat slabs; near this is another
rock-hewn chamber, and in front of
the two stretches an open court, the
walls of which are covered with sculptured
scenes. In this court are some
stelæ, which appear to have been
removed from their original position.
The later temple consists of a large
square court, with fragments of pillars
and Athor-headed capitals, and of a
long building divided into numerous
small chambers. At the end nearest
the rock-hewn temple is a large gateway.
The walls are covered with
tablets and inscriptions, and the whole
must have been very fine when perfect;
at present it is one mass of ruin.
Round the temples are long heaps of
stone, the remains probably of enclosing
walls. The whole is much buried in
sand, and Col. C. W. Wilson, from
whose account the above description is
taken, thinks that excavating would
bring a good many things to light.
The little digging done by the Ordnance
Survey resulted in the finding
of a small gold ornament, a few
scarabæi, broken necklaces, fragments
of pottery, &c. The number of stelæ
is remarkable.
It appears, according to Dr. Birch,
that the colony of Sarábit el-Khádim
dates from a later epoch than that of
Maghárah. Amenemhat II. of the
XIIth Dynasty was the first to open
the mines, and found the temples. His
name is cut on the face of the rock
near the temple. There are many
other tablets with the names of other
kings of that dynasty, Amenemhat III.
and IV. Like Maghárah, Sarábit el-Khádim
was abandoned from the XIIth
to the XVIIIth Dynasties. Thothmes
III. then recommenced working the
mines, and was followed by Thothmes
IV. and Amenhotep III. The kings of
the XIXth Dynasty, especially Sethi I.
and Rameses II., have nearly all left
records here. Though the temple was
probably founded during the XIIth
Dynasty, the first name found on it is
Thothmes III., and other monarchs
follow down to Rameses IV., including
Meneptah, the Pharaoh of the Exodus.
Athor is the principal divinity, with
Set and Knum. There are many
tablets and inscriptions cut in the
sandstone of the mining district which
surrounds Sarábit el-Khádim.
Returning to Wády Suwig, which
gradually becomes broad and steep, the
road lies through heavy burning sand
to the foot of Nugb Suwig. A winding
rocky trail leads to the summit,
and then we descend again by a
rugged path into Wády Khameeleh,
at which point comes in the road followed
by the baggage-camels. A
short way farther on, on the right-hand
side, are two large rocks with Sinaitic
inscriptions. Continuing up the north
branch of Wády Khameeleh we reach
a small sandy plain, called Debébat
Sheykh Ahmed
(7 miles), from a
Bedawee saint who lies buried in the
tomb by the wayside. Just beyond
the mouth of Wády Meraikh are some
nawámees (see Rte. a ) and circular
tombs. Wády Bark, up which the
road now turns, is a long broad valley,
steep and rocky, with a number of fine
seyál-trees. The sandstone is here
exchanged for gneiss. Five miles up
Wády Bark is a wall of loose stones,
built by the Bedaween to keep out
Mohammed Ali's soldiery. At the
top of the valley is a group of nawámees.
Wády Labweh is a broad
open valley with a granite gravel soil.
About 1 1/2 mile up it, on the left of the
road, is a cleft in a large rock, containing
a spring of cool delicious water;
it is called Shageek el-Ajooz (“the
Old Woman's Rift”). Granite rocks
now succeed to gneiss, and the wády
expands into an open plain, two miles
wide, well clothed with desert herbage.
The plain again contracts, and, crossing
the watershed, the road enters
Wády Berrah, in a side valley to the
N. of which there is good water. Two
miles up this valley is a rock, called
Hajar el-Laghweh, with Sinaitic inscriptions;

and three miles farther on
we reach the feature from which the
wády derives its name, “the Valley of
the Passers-Out”—two massive bluffs
of red granite, standing like gigantic
sentinels, through which we pass out
by a narrow gorge into a wide plain
called Erweis el-Erbeirig (21 miles);
not to be confused with a spot of the
same name near Ain Hudherah. A
road leads hence to El-Buweib in
Wády Feirán, eight miles off.
From Erweis el-Erbeirig, which
commands a fine view of Serbál, we
pass by the Wády Soleif into the
Wády esh-Sheykh, and thence by the
Wády Sahab to the head of Wády
Solaf
and the mouth of Nugb Hawa
(12 miles). The road hence to Jebel
Moosa has been described under
Rte. (a).

i. HISTORY AND DESCRIPTON OF THE
CONVENT.

History.—The first settlement of
Christian communities in Sinai probably
took place during the persecutions
which raged in Egypt and Syria
in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. There
is no doubt that during the 4th century
Jebel Moosa and the neighbouring
mountains swarmed with hermits,
who in A.D. 373 were attacked by the
Arabs and great numbers slain. The
convent of Dayr Arbáee in the Wády
Lejá is said to commemorate the death
of 40 of them. After this they seem
to have chiefly settled at Feirán and
Mount Serbál. They had so far recovered
themselves in the 6th century
that a legate appeared at the Council of
Constantinople in A.D. 536 to represent
“Holy Mount Sinai.” Six years previously,
i.e. in A.D. 530, according to
Procopius, Justinian founded on the
slope of Jebel Moosa a church, dedicated
to the Virgin, and a fortress to protect
the monks from the Saracens. The
fortress is no doubt the present convent.
From that period Feirán declined
in importance, and in the 10th
cent, the episcopal seat was transferred
to Sinai. Within their stronghold the
monks were able to resist the attacks
of the marauding Arabs, whose habits
of persecution were not changed by
their conversion to Islám. They were
protected too, generally, by the rulers
of Egypt, who gave them certain privileges,
some of which they still enjoy.
In the 14th cent. Rudolph von Suchem,
who visited the convent, stated that it
contained 400 monks, under an archbishop.
There were also at that time
six other convents in the Peninsula,
and many hermitages. In the 17th
cent, there only remained the community
of Sinai, dwindled down to
60 monks; and now it contains but 20
or 30.
The monastery is nominally presided
over by an archbishop. He is
elected by the monks themselves from
among the priests of the convent, but
the election must be confirmed by the
Patriarch of Jerusalem. The local
head of the monastery is the prior.
The rule of the monks is very strict.
No meat and wine are allowed, and
during fasts butter, milk, and even
oil are forbidden; they are however
allowed to drink a very strong spirit
distilled from dates (árakee). The
services are long and frequent, the
Greek ritual being performed eight
times in the 24 hours, and every one
must be present at least four times,
twice during the day and twice during
the night. Most of the monks are
quite uneducated, the lay brothers
being recruited from the lowest class
of Greek peasants. They all follow
some trade, which their situation compels
them to take up—baker, gardener,
cook, shoemaker, &c. Now and then
an intelligent monk may be found
there, undergoing a period of banishment
from his own convent.
Description.—There is no difficulty
in obtaining admission to the convent,
if the visitor is provided with the
proper letter of introduction, already
alluded to (p 331). It is no longer
necessary to enter by the trap-door in
the wall, some 30 feet above the
ground, up to which all who sought
admittance were formerly hauled by a
rope. The present entrance is by a
low door in one of the buttresses on the
north side of the convent, through
which a short vaulted passage leads to

a postern in the convent wall. The
ancient entrance is a little to the
right, in the centre of the north face,
and is a fine door 7 feet wide, but it
has for many years been closed with
masonry. Above the lintel is a relieving
arch, and over this a machicoulis,
in which is a tablet with a
Greek inscription not hitherto deciphered.
As the machicoulis and the
inscription both belong to the period
at which the monastery was built, it is
to be hoped that some one will succeed
in reading the inscription. There are
other tablets above the buttress in
which is the modern entrance, with
inscriptions in Greek and Arabic giving
the history of the building of the convent
by Justinian. The whole of the
north wall is much cracked, and the
masonry concealed by rubble heaped
against it. The top is modern. The
east wall, in which is the trap-door
mentioned above, was almost rebuilt
at the end of the last century by the
orders of General Kleber, and an inscription
in modern Greek on a small tablet
in one of the round towers commemorates
the fact. The south wall has
also been partially rebuilt, and is supported
with buttresses; along the top
is a covered passage forming a pleasant
promenade. The west wall, owing to
its position, is the best preserved, and
shows how strong and massive the old
building was. Numerous crosses and
other devices are seen in the covering
stones of the loopholes. The original
form of the building was an irregular
quadrangle, with slightly projecting
towers at each angle, and in the east,
west, and south sides. Its position
was probably determined by the abundant
water-supply in the neighbourhood,
and the existence near it of the
traditional site of the Burning Bush,
and the chapel and tower built by
order of the Empress Helena.
Having passed through the entrance,
which is protected by no less than
three doors, and is so narrow that only
one man can enter at a time, the
visitor finds himself in the interior,
and will probably be conducted at once
to the guest chambers high up over
the north wall. Here, if he means to
remain in the convent, he will take up
his abode. Lodging, bread, and water
are what the convent provides for its
guests, so of course servants and food
will have to be taken in. A backsheesh
of about £1 a head is expected when
the traveller leaves, over and above
what his dragoman may have given
for the things provided.
Originally the interior was laid out
with great regularity, but there are
few signs of the old plan still remaining.
The following is a graphic
description of the general view.
“Though the interior presents a scene
of the most hopeless confusion when
looked down upon from the guest
chambers, there is not wanting a
certain quaint picturesqueness and
charm, which is heightened in spring
by the bright green of the trellised
vines. Two tiers of loopholes are still
visible in the west wall, and some few
of the vaults and arches within remain
intact; but they are for the most part
broken down and filled with all manner
of filth. Over, above, and within them
are the buildings of after ages,
mosques, chapels, bakeries, distilleries,
and stables, some themselves gone to
ruin, and serving as foundations for
still later erections of mud and sundried
bricks, which are daily adding
their mite to the general confusion.
The quadrangle is now completely
filled with buildings, and through
them, turning and twisting in every
direction, now ascending, now descending,
exposed to the full force of
the sun, or passing through dark
tunnels, is a perfect labyrinth of narrow
passages.”—Col. C. W. Wilson.
The Church, which is remarkable
for its massive grandeur, was built
during the reign of Justinian. The
exterior bears signs of extensive alterations;
a new porch has been added
which almost conceals the original
west porch and its window; the south
wall has been raised, and the east end
partially rebuilt. There were probably
two towers at the west end: that at the
south-west corner is a distinct building,
and was perhaps built as a place
of refuge before the existence of the

convent; and if so, it may be a remnant
of the tower of Helena, which
Justinian enclosed, with the place of
the Burning Bush, within the convent.
The church has three aisles, separated
by two rows of granite columns; at
the eastern end of the centre aisle is a
large apse; the other aisles are closed
by walls, through which are doors
leading to two chapels; one of the
Holy Father, on the north, and the
other of St. James the Less, on the
south. From either of these there is
access to the Chapel of the Burning
Bush, situated behind the central apse,
round which there is a free passage.
There are three chapels in each side
aisle, those on the north below the
level of the floor, and those on the
south above it. The capitals of the
columns are of various designs, no two
alike. The mosaic over the apse represents
the Transfiguration. Our Saviour
is in the centre, Elias on the right,
Moses on the left, St. Peter lying at
his feet, and St. James and St. John
kneeling on either side. Round the
whole are a series of busts of prophets,
saints, &c., each with his name written
in Greek; and beyond, on the face of
the wall is a border, with figures of
dodo-like birds. On the wall above the
apse are two representations of Moses,
one at the Burning Bush, and the
other at the Receiving of the Law;
and beneath these are two portraits,
said to be those of the Emperor Justinian
and his wife Theodora, but they
bear no resemblance to the known
portraits of either. Close to the altar
is a chest containing the skull and
hand of St. Catherine, and beneath it
a marble slab with two ibexes in relief
at the foot of the cross. The altar-screen
is profusely ornamented, and a
large cross with a painting of the Crucifixion
towers above it. The walls
are covered with the quaint pictures
usually seen in Greek churches, and
hung with banners, and from the roof
hang gold and silver lamps of great
beauty. Between the columns are
the wooden stalls of the monks, and
the elaborately carved thrones of the
Patriarch and Bishop, in one of which
is a painting representing the convent
before the round towers were
added.
In the Chapel of the Burning Bush
is shown the place where the bush
stood, now covered with a silver plate;
and in the wall is a little window
through which the sun's rays are said
to fall once in the year. The floor,
lower than that of the church, is
richly carpeted, and the walls are
covered with pictures and encaustic
tiles. Two splendid coffined Effigies
of St. Catherine
are kept here; one
given by the Empress Catherine, and
the other by the present Emperor of
Russia, Alexander II. On the two
fine old wooden doors by which the
church is entered are a variety of
devices cut in panels, and several coats
of arms, the work probably of pilgrims.
On the archway near the mosque, and
in the north wall of the refectory are
the arms and names of pilgrim knights,
some dating back to the 14th and 15th
centuries.
Near the church is a Mosque with a
minaret; it contains an old wooden
pulpit with a Kufic inscription.
The Library, which is neatly arranged,
contains a number of Greek
printed books and Arabic MSS. It
was here that Tischendorf discovered
the famous MS. of the Bible which
has been called the Codex Sinaiticus.
This is one of the most valuable MS.
of the Bible. It probably dates from
the 4th cent. It is now in St. Petersburgh,
having been purchased by the
Emperor Alexander II. from the monastery.
The two curiosities shown to
strangers are a beautifully illuminated
MS. of the Gospels, written on vellum
in letters of gold, and dating from
766 A.D.; and a copy of the Psalms
written by a female, said to be St.
Thecla, in so small a hand that it can
only be read through a microscope.
On the north side of the convent is
a courtyard, and beyond are the Gardens,
a charming picture of life and
beauty set in the surrounding desolation.
In the middle of the garden
is the Charnel-house, consisting of a
small chapel and two long vaults; one
containing the bones of monks and

pilgrims, the other those of priests and
bishops. The bodies are first buried
for a year or so in a patch of garden,
and then the bones are collected and
placed in the vaults. “The bishops
and saints, with the exception of St.
Stephen the porter, who sits in ghastly
magnificence with his gorgeous robes
round him, are ranged in wooden
boxes with their respective names on
slips of paper; the bones of the more
humble brethren are piled in two
heaps, the skulls on one side, the arms,
thighs, &c., on the other. In one of
the boxes are the skeletons of two
Indian princes, with fragments of
well-made link-armour which they
are said to have worn during the
years they passed as hermits on Jebel
Moosa; there is also a chain made of
iron nails, roughly bent, and weighing
about fifteen pounds, which bound them
together in life as it does now in death.
There are also leathern scourges, iron
necklets and girdles, and other reminiscences
of the days when the mountain
side was covered with hermitages.”

k. THE ASCENT OF JEBEL MOOSA AND
RÁS SUFSÁFEH.

This is one of the excursions in the
neighbourhood of the convent to which
the traveller will certainly devote a
day.
Several paths lead up to the summit
of Jebel Moosa, but the one
usually followed goes up a rude glen
at the back of the convent, and is
called Sikket Seyyidna Moosa, “the
Path of our Lord Moses.” A lay-brother,
or an Arab, is furnished by
the convent as guide. There is a
flight of rocky steps nearly the whole
way, which renders the ascent easy.
The first object of interest is Máyan
Moosa
(“the Fountain of Moses”), a
delicious spring of cool water which
rises beneath a huge granite boulder,
and is surrounded by a fringe of maidenhair
fern. According to the Bedaween,
it was here that Moses watered Jethro's
flocks; monkish tradition makes it the
abode of St. Stephen the cobbler. The
path leads up through a narrow ravine,
over huge boulders of granite, to what
is called the Chapel of the Virgin of
the Œconomos or Bursar
, a small
building of unhewn stone, erected to
commemorate the miraculous extirpation
of fleas from the convent—a
miracle which most visitors will agree
in thinking needs repetition. The road
now turns to the right, and ascends
sharply to a cleft in the rock, spanned
by a circular arch with a cross on either
face. Here sat St. Stephen the porter
and his successors and shrived the
pilgrims, who passed on repeating
Ps. xxiv. 3, 4, “Who shall ascend
into the hill of the Lord,” &c. A
little farther on is another gateway,
and then a small plain at the foot of
the peak of Jebel Moosa is reached.
Here is a ruined garden, a solitary
cypress-tree, and a building containing
the Chapels of Elijah and Elisha.
Monkish tradition points out a small
grot in which the former lived (1 Kings
xix. 8, 9).
From this point a stiff half hour's
climbing takes one to the top of
Jebel Moosa. On. the way we pass
the footprints of the prophet's camel,
and a stone said to mark the spot where
Elijah was turned back as unworthy to
tread the holy ground above. On the
top are two buildings, a chapel and a
mosque, both built of stones taken from
the ruins of an early convent. Tradition
places the chapel near the “clift
of the rock” where Moses was when the
glory of the Lord passed by (Ex. xxxiii,
22), and says the cave beneath the
mosque was where he passed the forty
days and forty nights. The summit of
Jebel Moosa is 7363 feet above the sea.
The term “Jebel Moosa” may be applied
to the whole ridge, of which this
is the highest peak, but by the monks
and Bedaween the term is confined to
the summit on which we now stand.
The upper portion is of grey granite,
the lower of red. On the south side is
a sheer descent of more than 1000 feet.
There are few who will not wish to
continue the excursion to Rás Sufsáfeh,
the presumed Mount of the Law.
Descending the peak of Jebel Moosa
by the same path to the plain in
which are the chapels of Elijah

and Elisha, we turn to the left, and
scramble for a mile through a sort of
rocky groove that runs along the top
of the ridge; then, after passing the
ozier, or willow, which gives its name
to Rás Sufsáfeh, comes a climb of
several hundred feet up a rugged
ravine, and then the summit ridge is
reached, situated in a deep cleft between
high walls of rock. From this
point the whole of the plain of Er-Raháh
is distinctly visible. That Rás
Sufsáfeh has the best claims to be considered
as the Mt. Sinai has been already
pointed out, and as we stand here the
peculiar fitness of the place demonstrates
itself most unmistakably. Here
we have a mountain summit overlooking
a plain—Er-Raháh—containing
1,936,000 sq. yards of even ground,
with an additional 1,098,680 sq. yards
in the Seih Lejá, and 1.258,400
sq. yards in the Wády ed-Dayr, all
in full view of the mountain, and
capable of holding three millions of
people, while the valleys in the immediate
neighbourhood afford plenty
of extra camping space. Every other
requirement of the Bible narrative is
equally well met; and if everything
that took place during the year of the
Israelites' sojourn in Mt. Sinai must
be minutely localised, there seems
little difficulty in doing so. But
whether every small detail can be made
to rightly fit in and harmonise seems
but a small matter; no one can fail to
realise how suited is the whole of the
magnificent scenery around him to be
the theatre of the majestic and awful
events described in the sacred narrative.
The descent into the plain below
may be made from Rás Sufsáfeh to
Aaron's Hill, but it is rather steep
and rugged.

l. ASCENT OF JEBEL KATAREENA.

This is a pretty good climb, and an
early start should be made. Passing
down the Wády ed-Dayr, the road
skirts the base of Rás Sufsáfeh, and
turns up the Wády el-Lejá. On the
way are passed various objects which
monkish legends have connected with
events in the Bible First there is a
rock called “the Mould of the Calf,”
but which the Bedaween name simply
Nugb el-Baggar , “the Cows' Hole,”
saying that it was caused by Moses
thrusting his staff into the stone to
procure water for his cow: the name,
however, and the presence of a hill
close by called Haroon, has suggested
the connecting it with the story of the
Golden Calf. Then comes the “Burial
place of the Tables of the Law,” and
“the Cave of Korah, Dathan, and
Abiram.” A little distance up the
Wády el-Lejá is a “Stone of Moses.”
called by the Bedaween Hajar el-Magareen,
“the Stone of the United
Ones,” from Moses having severed
it with his sword. At the head of
Wády el-Lejá is the Dayr el-Arbdeen,
the “Convent of the Forty,” so called
from being dedicated to 40 monks
once slain by the Bedaween. It is now
deserted, but a few Arabs keep up the
cultivation of the gardens.
The road now turns south-west
along a dark rocky glen called
Shagg Moosa, running far up into
the north-eastern slopes of Jebel
Katareena. A mile or two farther on,
the path leaves the ravine, and henceforward
it is a tiring heavy climb up
an abrupt and crumbling mountainside
to the foot of the rocky summit
cone. On the way a beautiful spring,
Máyan esh-Shinnár (“the Fountain of
the Partridge”), is passed. The peak is
a huge naked block of syenite granite,
steep, but so broken that there is no
danger or difficulty in climbing it.
On the top is a little chapel dedicated
to St. Catherine, whose headless body
is said to have been carried by angels
to the top of the mountain from
Alexandria, where she suffered martyrdom
early in the 4th centy. This
peak of Jebel Katareena proper is
8536 feet high, and what may be considered
its twin peak, Jebel Zebeer, is
about the same, 8531 feet. “As its
peak is all but the loftiest, so is the
view from Jebel Katareena one of
the finest in the country. From this
high and freezing standpoint you
may, on any clear day, look down
upon three-fourths of the Peninsula of
Sinai, from Jebel Hammám Pharoon

on the north-west to the mountains of
Wady el-Ain on the north-east; from
Jebel Moosa and Has Sufsáfeh, which
seem quite close to your side, and the
labyrinth of monster mountains spread
out like a model at your feet, to the
glimmering water of the twin Gulfs,
and the hills of Arabia and Africa
spread out beyond them on either
hand. Jebel Zebeer and Jebel Umm
Shomer slightly spoil the view southward,
and little can be seen beyond
the Tih escarpment on the north; but
in all other quarters the prospect is
most extensive. Rás Mohammed is
not to be seen, though you can trace
the two arms of the Red Sea almost to
their point of junction. The whole
prospect is magnificent, grander even
than that from Serbál; the effects of
colour, light, and shade excite the
admiration of every traveller; the
colours on land, sky, and sea are simply
enchanting, and the intense stillness
and silence of the desert lends mystery
and solemnity to the scene. But it is
at sunrise or sunset that a Sinai mountain
landscape is seen to its greatest
perfection. Perhaps the hour of sunset
is to be preferred to any other. Then
you have orange, pink, green, and
blue in the sky; indigo, lilac and rich
red-brown, like burnished copper, on
the hills; colours ever changing and
deepening, shadows ever lengthening,
as the sun slowly declines.”—Capt.
H. S. Palmer.
From the summit of Jebel Katareena
you may go on to Jebel Zebeer,
and, crossing that, bear eastwards
across the high ground at the head of
the ravines that drain northwards into
Wády Lejá. Gradually shape your
course northwards along the high
ridge at the south of Jebel Moosa, and
thus descend to Jebel Moneijah. This,
though a little longer in distance, is
an easier descent, and in the evening
the sunset lights over Jebel el-Alowee
are most beautiful. The road is little
known, but easy to find.

m. OTHER EXCURSIONS.

If there is time to spare, a day
may be occupied in one or two interesting
walks in the neighbourhood
of the Convent. There are good
views of the convent and the valley
in which it stands from the top of
Jebel Moneijah, a conical hill at the
head of Wády ed-Dayr, and from Jebel
ed-Dayr
on the east of the wády.
Perhaps the finest mountain scenery in
the Peninsula is to be found in the
gorges of the Wády et-Tláh and the
Wády Emleisah, which lie to the west
of Er-Rahah and Nugb Hawa.
An excursion to Umm Shomer will
take three or four days. The road
passes over Jebel Moneijah, and then
descends into the Wády Sebáeeyeh,
which it follows to its head. It then
descends a steep ravine, and ascending
a valley reaches Wády Rahabeh.
At the end of this wády is a little
ravine called Wády Zaytooneh, from
the great olive-tree in it. Here the
camels must be left, and the ascent of
Umm Shomer. a three or four hours'
climb, performed on foot. The distance
from the convent to Wády Zaytooneh
is 16 or 17 miles by the direct road over
Jebel Moneijah, but baggage-camels
are sometimes obliged to take a longer
and easier road. The first ascent of
1000 feet from the Wády Zaytooneh
brings you to the summit of Jebel Aboo
Sheger.
You then descend a steep
ravine, cross a ridge to its farther side,
and then a difficult climb of 1800 feet
brings you to the highest point of
Umm Shomer, 8449 feet.
Tor may be reached by this route,
continuing from Wády Rahabeh down
some steep passes into the Gáah.
The distance altogether from the
convent is 48 miles. A longer but
easier road, 53 1/2 miles, passes down
the Nugb Hawa, the Wády Soláf, and
the Wády Hebrán, into the Gáah.
Tor is little more than a dirty village,
and contains nothing of interest.
There are remains of convents in the
neighbourhood, and an old fortress on
the sea-shore.
Six or seven miles from Tor is a
curious mountain called Jebel Nágoos.
It takes its name—” the Bell Mountain,”
or, more correctly, the “Gong
Mountain,”—from the peculiar noises
which are heard arising from it, and

which somewhat resemble the sound
of the wooden gong (nágoos) used in
the Greek convents for summoning
the community. On the side of Jebel
Nágoos is a triangular sand-slope,
filling a recess in the sandstone hills.
It is about 195 feet high, 80 yards
wide at the base, and narrows off
towards the top. The cliffs rise about
200 feet above it. The sand is caused
by the waste of the sandstone rocks.
Being at so high an angle, the slightest
cause sets the sand in motion, and it
is this movement of the surface-sand
which produces the sound above referred
to.

n. CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY
BY THE LONG DESERT VIÂ AKABAH
AND PETRA, OR VIÂ NAHKL, TO
PALESTINE.

Those who intend continuing their
journey through the desert to Akabah
and Petra (Wády Moosa), and thence
to Hebron, will find that journey described
in the Handbook to Syria and
Palestine.
It will be sufficient here
to add a few additional hints to those
already given at the beginning, and
conduct the traveller a short distance
on the way. It is necessary to make
every possible inquiry at Cairo as to
the practicability of getting to Petra.
If there is any chance of the road
being open, the Sheykh of the Aloween—the
tribe which can best conduct
the traveller from Akabah to
Petra, and thence to Hebron—is generally
to be found at Cairo in the
winter and early spring; and from him
all information can be obtained, and
an engagement made with him under
the sanction of the Consul to provide
camels and an escort, and guarantee
a safe passage, and as long a time as
possible (3 days) at Petra. A backsheesh
of so much a head, probably
3l., has to be paid to the fellaheen of
Petra for the permission to stay there.
As the Bedaween of Arabia Petræa
are a much more turbulent lot than
the Towárah who conduct the traveller
to Sinai and Akabah, it may be useful
to say a little about their habits and
ways, and the best method of dealing
with them.
It sometimes happens that a traveller
is stopped on the road by what is
said to be a party of hostile Arabs,
and obliged to pay a sum of money,
as he supposes, to save his life, or to
secure the continuation of his journey
in safety. Everybody who knows Arab
customs must be aware that no one of a
hostile tribe can ever enter the territory
of any other Arabs without the
insult being avenged by the sword;
and it is evident, if no resistance is
made on the part of those who conduct
the traveller, that the attacking party
are either some of their own, or of a
friendly, tribe who are allowed to
spoil him by the very persons he pays
to protect him; for an Arab would
rather die than suffer such an affront
from a hostile tribe in his own desert.
If, then, his Arabs do not fight on the
occasion, he may be sure it is a trick
to extort money; he should, therefore,
use no arms against the supposed
enemies, but afterwards punish his
faithless guides by deducting the sum
taken from their pay; and it is as
well, before starting, to make them
enter into an engagement that they
are able as well as willing to protect
him. Any idea of travelling with one
tribe through a desert belonging to
another, when they are not on friendly
terms, should never be entertained.
There is another disagreeable thing
to which travellers are sometimes exposed.
Two parties of the same
tribe quarrel for the right of conducting
him; and after he has gone
some distance on his journey, he and
his goods are taken by the opposition
candidates, and transferred to their
camels. The war is merely one of
words, which the inexperienced in
the language cannot understand; but
he fully comprehends the annoyance
of being nearly pulled to pieces by the
two rivals, and his things are sometimes
thrown on the ground, to the
utter destruction of everything fragile.
This may not occur, but it is as well
to provide against it before starting,
and a sheykh or guide should be
secured who has decided authority.

and can overawe all parties. Above
all things it is important to secure
the goodwill of the Arabs, on whom
so much of the comfort of a journey
necessarily depends. And nothing is
easier. It can, of course, be far better
done if the traveller speaks Arabic;
and it will then probably be his own
fault if he meet with anything but
good humour and willingness to oblige
on every occasion.
In engaging Arabs application is
made to one of the sheykhs; and when
one has been found who has good
recommendations, and his services have
been engaged, it is only necessary
to go to the Consulate and have the
agreement officially drawn up, in which
the proper prices, and other particulars,
are stipulated.
The road from Sinai to Akabah
passes down the Wády esh-Sheykh as
far as the tomb of Neby Saleh. The
festival of this saint is a great event
for the Towárah Bedaween, who flock
to the tomb from all parts of the
Peninsula, and encamp round it for
three days. Leaving the Wády esh-Sheykh,
and passing up the ravine of
Aboo Suweirah, the main watershed of
the peninsula is crossed, and after
traversing an open tract we reach the
gorge of Wády Saal, 13 miles from
the Convent. Sixteen miles farther on
a sandy tract with blackish mounds,
called Erweis el-Ebeirig, is reached, a
spot identified by Professor Palmer
with Kibroth-hattaavah of the Bible
(Numb. xi. 3-1). He is strengthened
in this conclusion by a tradition of the
Bedaween, which says that the erection
of rough unhewn stones on a
neighbouring hill, surmounted with a
white pyramid-shaped block, and the
numerous stone enclosures all around,
are the remains of an encampment of
pilgrims, who in remote ages pitched
their tents here on the way to Hazeroth,
and were lost immediately afterwards,
and never more heard of.
The road now leads across a desolate
sandy plain with a few isolated rocks,
some of which are covered with Sinaitic
inscriptions. The principal of
these is called Hudheibat el-Hajjáj
(“the Pilgrims' Hill”). The ordinary
road to Akabah here enters Wády
Ghazáleh
, and descends to its junction
with the oasis of Wády el-Ain, and
thence down the magnificent gorge of
Wády Weteer to the Gulf of Akabah.
If, however, we wish to reach Ain
Hudherah, the probable Hazeroth of
the Bible, we turn to the left, and
soon meet a magnificent gorge, in
which nestles the dark-green palm-grove
of Ain Hudherah. There are
remains of old walls, an aqueduct,
and many Greek and Sinaitic inscriptions.
On a hill at the east side of
the cliff is a building which may have
been a beacon, and gives its name to
the spot, Matáli Hudherah, “the
Hazeroth Look-outs.”
The journey from Mount Sinai to
Akabah takes 6 days: from Akabah
to Petra by the Wády el-Arabah 4
days, by the upper road 5 days: and
from Petra to Hebron 6 days. If on
arriving at Akabah it should be found
that something has happened since
leaving Cairo to render the Petra
route impracticable, the traveller must
turn aside to Nahkl, 1 days' journey,
and thence to Hebron, 7 days. It is
better to make sure of the Petra route
by sending, as soon as Mount Sinai is
reached, a man to Akabah to inquire
if all is tranquil. He will be met
coming back with an answer some time
probably during the third day's journey
from Sinai to Akabah, and if it be
unfavourable an alteration in the route
can be made at once.
From Sinai direct to Palestine viâ
Nahkl is a route which presents no
object of interest to the ordinary traveller:
he had much better return to
Suez, and go thence, viâ Port Said and
the sea, to Jaffa.

[Back to top]


360

SECTION VI.
THE DESERT WEST OF THE NILE, AND THE FAYOOM.

PAGE
ROUTE 15. Cairo to the Natron
Lakes and Monasteries
360
ROUTE 16. Alexandria or Cairo
to the Oasis of Seewah or Ammon
366
ROUTE 17. Cairo to the Little
Oasis, the Oasis
of Dakhleh, and the
Great Oasis, by the
Fayoom
368
ROUTE 18. Cairo to the Fayoom 376

ROUTE 15.
CAIRO TO THE NATRON LAKES AND
MONASTERIES.

a. Preliminary Hints. b. General
Description of the Wády Natróon.
c. Route to, and Description of,
the Monasteries.

a. PRELIMINARY HINTS.

This excursion does not present any
great attraction to the general traveller;
but those who care for old
Christian architecture and antiquities
will find much to interest them in the
monasteries. It may be done, if time
is an object, in 6 days, thus:—1st day,
Cairo to Wardan station on the line
from Boolak Dakroor. The train leaves
Boolak Dakroor at 8.30 P.M., and it is
necessary to stop for the night at Beni
Salameh or Tris; 2nd, Beni Salameh
to Dayr Macarius; 3rd, Dayr Macarius
to Dayr Suriáni and Amba Bishoi;
4th, Dayr Suriáni to Dayr Baramóos,
and thence to the huts at the end of
one of the lakes; 5th, end of the lake
to Wardan; 6th, Wardan to Cairo.
The train leaves Wardan station for
Cairo at 5.20 A.M. There is also a
direct route from Cairo across the
desert by the Bahr el-Fargh, which
takes 16 hrs. It is not absolutely
necessary to take tents, as accommodation
can be had at Tris or Beni Salameh,
or the traveller might sleep in the
railway station at El-Wardan . This is
perhaps best, especially on the return
journey. Also the Dayrs, and the
huts at the end of the lake afford
shelter for the night spent there; but
it is decidedly more comfortable to be
provided with your own sleeping quarters.
Provisions must be taken. There
is a full and interesting description of
the monasteries in Butler's ‘Ancient
Coptic Churches of Egypt,’ which
should be carefully read by those who
take an interest in the subject.

b. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE
WÁDY NATRÓON.

Wády Natróon was known anciently
as the district of Nitria, or Nitriotis,
and sometimes as the desert of St.

Macarius, whose monastery still remains
there. The vestiges of pagan
date are rare; and it is difficult to fix
the position of the 2 towns of Nitriotis,
the only ancient remains being the
glass-house of Zakook, and some heaps
of pottery near Dayr Macarius. The
former, perhaps, marks the site of
Nitria, and the latter Sciathis, whence
this district received the appellation of
Sciathia, or Sciathica regio. in Coptic
Shiêt. Strabo says it contained two pits
(lakes) of nitre (natron), the inhabitants
worshipped Serapis, and it was
the only district of Egypt where sheep
were sacrificed: though Herodotus tells
us the Mendesians had also the custom
of immolating them to the deity of
their city. The Coptic name of the
town of Nitria was Phanihosem, that
of the district Pmam-pihosem. Hosem
means “natron.”
The natron is found both in the
plain and in two or three of the lakes.
There are 8 lakes which contain water
all the year, and are called Melláhat.
The largest and most southerly, Melláhat
om-Reésheh, produces only muriate
of soda, or common salt. Next
to this in size is Melláhat el-Jáar, also
a salt lake; the El-Goonfedeeyeh and
Melláhat el-Hamra, or Dowár el-Hamra
(from its round form), both of which
contain natron; then the larger Melláhat
el-Joon, a salt lake; then er-Rasooneeyeh,
another salt lake; and
last El-Khortái, and the lesser Joon,
which two produce natron, and are
much inferior in size to the preceding.
There are also two ponds (birkeh),
the Birket esh-Shookayfeh, and the
Birket er-Rumáëd, which contain water
the greater part of the year, but are
dry in summer; and a few other pools
not worthy of notice, some of which
yield natron of indifferent quality.
In those lakes which contain natron,
or the subcarbonate, as well as the
muriate, of soda, the two salts crystallize
separately: the latter above in a
layer of about 18 in., and the natron
below, varying in thickness, according
to the form or depth of the bed of the
lake, the thinnest being about 27 in.
All the lakes contain salt, though few
have natron.
The water in the lakes varies much
in height at different seasons of the
year. They begin to increase about
the end of December, and continue to
rise till the early part of March, when
they gradually decrease, and in May
all the pools and even the two larger
birkehs are perfectly dry. The abundance
of water in winter renders them
less salt than in the subsequent months,
and even the height of the Melláhat
diminishes greatly in summer, leaving
the dry part covered with an incrustation
of muriate or of subcarbonate
of soda, according to the nature of
the salt they contain. The difference
between the bed of the birkehs and
of the salt and natron lakes is that
the former, when the water has evaporated,
is mud, and in the two latter
a firm incrustation: and it is at this
time that the natron called Sultánee is
collected.
The natron consists of two kinds–the
white and the Sultánee; the latter
taken from the bed of the lakes as the
water retires, and the former from
the low grounds that surround them,
which are not covered by water. This
is the best quality. In measuring
the specific gravity of the water, that
of the lakes containing natron and salt
is found to mark 35 keerát (carats)
in summer, immediately before it dries
up; in January and February, about
24; the well-water of the village being
1, and that of the Nile 0. The Wády
Natróon is not the only district in
which natron is produced. It is found
in the valley of Eileithyias, now El-Káb,
in Upper Egypt, where it crystallizes
on the borders of some small
ponds to the eastward of the ancient
town. The shores of the lake Mœris
are also said to yield it, as well as
“the vicinity of Alexandria, near the
lake Mareotis, and the Isthmus of
Suez.” At present the natron from
the Wády Natróon yields a revenue of
about 1500l. annually to the Egyptian
Government.
There are several springs of fresh
water in the Natron valley, the purest
of which are at the convents (or monasteries)
to the S.; that of Dayr
Baramoós being slightly salt. The

water rises from and reposes on a bed
of clay, close to Zakook, and at the
base of the hills to the westward; and
it probably percolates beneath the
mountains which separate the Wády
Natróon from the Nile, and, being
carried over the clay which constitutes
the base of the Libyan chain, finds an
exit in these low valleys, forming
springs of fresh water in places where
the soil is free from all saline matter,
and salt-springs or ponds of natron
when the earth, through which it
passes from the clay to the surface,
presents that foreign substance deposited
of old in the neighbouring
strata. The same is the case in many
parts of Egypt, and it may be stated
in support of this opinion that the
water of all the salt wells becomes
much sweeter when a quantity has
been quickly taken out; proving the
water itself to be originally fresh, and
rendered salt by contact with earth
containing saline matter.
It seems singular that the lakes
should rise so long after the high Nile,
a period of nearly 3 months; and
this can only be explained by the
slowness of the water's passage through
the strata of the mountains intervening
between the river and this
distant valley; which, judging from
the time the Nile water takes to ooze
through the alluvial deposit of its
banks to the edge of the desert, frequently
not more than a mile or two
off, appears to be proportionate to the
increase of distance. The dip of the
strata that border the Natron valley
is towards the N.E., whence it is that
the descents to it and the adjacent
Wády Fargh are more rapid to the
west than to the east; and this is
consistent with the lower level of the
former valley.
The Productions of the Wády Natróon
are few, and from its dreary
appearance it might be supposed to
boast of nothing but the salt and
natron for which it is indebted to
its barrenness and its name. Two
other articles, however, of some importance
are grown there, and exported
thence to the Nile,—the rushes (soomár),
and bulrushes (béerdee), used
for making the well-known mats of
Egypt. Of the former the best kind
are made, called Menoófee, from the
town where they are manufactured; of
the latter an inferior quality, most
commonly used at Cairo; the Menoófee
being principally confined to
the houses of the rich. But it is
not to the Natron valley that the
Menoófee mats are indebted for the
best rushes; those of El - Maghra
or Wády es-Soomár (“the valley of
rushes “) are greatly, superior, and are
brought across the desert expressly for
this manufacture. Wády el-Maghra
is on the road to Séewah from the
Nile, and is 3 days from the Natron
lakes. The name béerdee, or burdee,
is also applied to the papyrus; but
that of the Natron lakes is a common
bulrush, or typha.
The Animals that frequent this district
are the gazelle, wild boar, the
jerboa, fox, and others common to
the Libyan desert; and some travellers
mention the stag. The bukkar-el-wahsh
(“wild cow”) or antelope
defassa
, is said to be no longer found.
Waterfowl abound; ducks are in great
numbers, and water-hens, jack snipes,
sandpipers, and other birds common to
the lakes and ponds of Egypt, frequent
the shores of the Natron lakes.
The length of the Wády Natróon
is about 22 m., its breadth, reckoning
from the slope of the low hills that
surround it, 5 1/2 in the broadest part;
though the actual level plain is not
more than 2, and is here and there
studded with isolated hills and banks
of rock covered with sand. The ascent
from it towards the Bahr el-Fargh is
very gradual, but the descent to this
last is rapid, more so even than on the
eastern side of the Natron valley; the
Bahr el-Fargh is, however, less deep
than its eastern neighbour, though
it surpasses it both in length and
breadth. The hills that separate the
two valleys, as well as the low banks
that form the undulating ground of
the Bahr el-Fargh, are covered with
rounded silicious pebbles, with here
and there pieces of petrified wood and
coarse gritstone, lying amidst loose
sand, the rocks below being a coarse

sandstone. These agatised woods are
the same as those that are found on
the opposite side of the Nile, at the
back of the Mokattam range behind
Cairo, in what is called “the petrified
forest.” (See Environs of Cairo,
Exc. iii.) The pebbles and woods
have probably been once imbedded in
a friable layer of sandstone, which,
having been decomposed and carried
off by the wind, has left these heavier
bodies upon the surface of the stratum
next beneath it, while its lighter particles
have contributed not a little to
increase the quantity of sand in these
districts and indeed the rock immediately
below is of a texture little
more compact than that which has
been thus removed.
The Bahr el-Farqh, or, as it is sometimes
called, Bahr bela-ma, runs towards
the Wády es-Soomár (or El-Maghra),
on the road to Séewah on
one side, and to the back of the mountains
on the W. of the Birket el-Korn
in the Fayoom on the other; another
branch diverging towards the E., and
communicating with the valley of the
Nile a little below Aboo Roásh, about
5 or 6 m. N. of the pyramids of Geezeh.
The hills that border it are of irregular
form, and its bed is varied by numerous
elevated ridges, depriving it of all the
character of a river which many suppose
it originally to have been. Some have
even claimed it for the Nile, as an old
bed of that river, seeing in the petrified
wood within its bed and on the adjacent
hills the remains of boats that
navigated this ancient channel. But
instances of similar hollow valleys are
not wanting in the Oases and other
parts of the limestone regions, both in
the western and eastern deserts.

c. ROUTE TO, AND DESCRIPTION OF,
THE MONASTERIES.

The best route from the Nile to the
valley of the Natron Lakes, or Wâdy
Natróon, is from Wardan on the left
bank of the river; or the start may be
made from Beni Salámeh, another
village a little higher up the Nile.
Both places may be reached from Cairo
by water (see Rte. 5); or, by rail from
Boolak ed-Dakróor on the Upper Egypt
line. Another way is to go by rail
viâ Tantah to Shibeen el-Kom, and
thence on donkeys to Sansaft, a little
above which village is a ferry across
the Nile to Teráneh. Camels or donkeys
and a guard can be obtained at
Teráneh for the journey of 10 or 12
hours across the desert to Wády Natróon.
The head-man of Teráneh is a
Copt, from whom it is well to get an
introduction to the Kummoos or Abbot
of Dayr Macarius.
The road from Wardan or Beni
Salámeh leads nearly due E. across the
desert, and crosses a monotonous series
of undulating hills with little variety.
“Each ridge is precisely like the last;
the ground slopes gently away, remains
flat for a while, and then curves upward
again to another hillock. The
distances vary a little, but the view is
always bounded by a ridge in front and
a ridge behind.”—Butler.
The road from Teráneh passes over
the ruins of an ancient town, which
have of late years been turned up in
every direction for the purpose of collecting
the nitre that abounds in all
similar mounds throughout Egypt.
These ruins are of great extent, and
apparently, from the burnt bricks and
small decomposed copper coins occasionally
found amidst them, of Roman
time. Some columns, one of which is
about 2 1/2 ft. in diameter, have also
been met with; but no object of value
has presented itself to indicate a place
of much consequence; and it is therefore
probable that its size was rather
owing to its having been the abode of
the many persons employed in bringing
the natron to the Nile than to the
importance it possessed as an Egyptian
town. This opinion is in some degree
confirmed by the appearance of a large
road leading to it from the S. end of
the Natron valley, which is still used
by those who go from that part of the
country to the Convent of St. Macarius.
Though Teráneh has succeeded to, and
derived its name from Terenuthis , it is
probable that these mounds occupy the
site of the ancient town, and that its
successor was built more to the E., in
consequence of a change in the course

of the river. Momemphis and Menclaïurbs
also stood in the vicinity of
Terenuthis; and the ancient road to
Nitriotis is said by Strabo to have left
the Nile not far from those places.
The journey across the desert is
very monotonous, but at length, after
crossing an elevation covered' with
shining black pebbles, the long line of
the walls of Dayr Macarius come in
sight. This convent, as indeed are
all those in the Natron valley, is surrounded
by a lofty wall, with an entrance
on one side so low that you are
obliged to stoop down on entering;
and on the outside are two large millstones,
generally of granite, which in
case of danger are rolled together into
the passage after the door has been
closed, in order that the Arabs shall
neither burn it nor break it open; the
stones being too heavy and fitting too
closely to be moved from without, and
intervening between the enemy and
the door. Those who have rolled them
into the passage are afterwards drawn
up by a rope through a trap-door above:
and the want of provisions soon obliges
the Arabs to raise the unprofitable
siege, which, not having been provoked
by any outrage committed by the
monks, seldom leaves in the recollection
of the aggressors any rancorous feelings;
and it rarely happens that they
ill-treat those whom they happen to
meet on their way to the Nile. Notwithstanding
the lowness of these door-ways,
the cattle that turn the water-wheels
for irrigating the gardens, and
the mills for grinding the corn, are
made to pass through on their knees.
As soon as the bell has announced
the arrival of a stranger, proper inquiries
and observations are made to
ascertain that there is no danger in
opening the door for his reception;
and no Arabs are admitted, unless, by
forming his escort, they have some
one responsible for their conduct. On
entering, you turn to the right and
left, through a labyrinth of passages
and small courts, and at last arrive at
the abode of the superior and the
principal monks. This part consists of
numerous small rooms, each with a
door serving as an entrance for the
inmate and his share of light, which is
fastened up during his absence at
prayers, or other avocations, with a
wooden lock, whose key might serve as
an ordinary bludgeon. In some parts
of the world the bearer of such an
instrument about his person might run
a risk of arrest for carrying a dangerous
weapon; and it is by no means certain
that an Oriental ink-stand would not
render him liable to a similar accusation.
A garden with a few palms, some
olive, nebk (Rhamnus Nabeca), the
lotos-tree of the Lotophagi, and other
fruit-trees, occupies the centre of the
principal court; and here is frequently
one of the churches;—for these monasteries
contain more than one, and St.
Macarius has no less than three within
it, Aboo Macar, Esh Shiukh, and Aboo
Iskharoon. In the tower there are
three chapels, dedicated to St. Michael,
St. Anthony arid St. Suah, and on the
lower floor the chapel of El-Adra. The
tower acts as a keep to the monastery,
and to this the monks would retire if
the main entrance was forced. Retreating
to it, they pull up the wooden
drawbridge that separates it from the
rest of the building: a well of water
and a supply of provisions always deposited
there, and never allowed to
decrease below a certain quantity, secures
them against the risk of want of
food; and the time occupied in the
siege, ere the Arabs could effect an
entrance, would always be sufficient
to enable them to remove everything
eatable, or otherwise valuable, from
below, and render the occupation of
the body of the place totally unprofitable
to the intruders.
The church of Aboo Macar is worth
inspection. The chief point of interest
is the heykel, which is 20 ft. long and
25 ft. in breadth. It is covered by a
fine dome which seems to have been
ornamented with fresco paintings.
The heykel is square-ended, and not
circular, as in the Cairo churches. The
altar is of stone and stands on a raised
platform. To the north is the chapel
of St. John, which contains a beautiful
screen of wood-work of great antiquity.

The bones of St. Macarius are said to
rest in this church. The church of Esh
Shiukh is small. There is a picture of
St. Macarius. The church of Aboo
Iskharoon is basilican in form, and the
choir and nave are covered by one
large dome of brickwork. The chapels
in the tower should also be visited.
They contain the remains of ancient
fresco paintings.
The monastery contains at present
about twenty monks, of whom half are
in priests' orders.
Near Dayr Macarius are the ruins of
3 other convents, and about 1/2 m. to
the E. are mounds of pottery that
indicate the site of an ancient town,
perhaps Sciathis.
Three hours from Dayr Macarius is
Dayr Suriáni, the most beautiful convent
of all. It was built by one
Honnes (“John”), a holy personage,
whose tree is still seen about a couple
of miles to the southward, near the
ruins of two other convents. It is
supposed to resemble Noah's ark in
form, though in no other respect; for
here, as at other Coptic monasteries,
the admission of women is strictly
prohibited. But though stern and
inflexible, like other monks, respecting
the admission of women, and in refusing
to all but the unmarried the privileges
of a monastic life, they do not exclude
a widower, on his renouncing for ever
the thoughts of matrimony. The rules
of the Coptic Church are even so indulgent
as to allow a priest, who has not
taken monastic vows, to marry once;
but the death of this his only wife condemns
him to future celibacy, though
it should happen a few weeks after
the celebration of the marriage rites.
They take the same view of the command
in 1 Tim. iii. 2-12, as the
Greeks.
This convent contains 3 churches:
the principal one, that of El-Adra, is
about 90 ft. in length. It consists of
nave with side aisles, choir, and sanctuary.
The nave is roofed with fine
vaulting, carried on pillars and high
pointed arches. The choir is roofed
with a fine dome supported on each
side by two semi-domes. These are
ornamented with fresco paintings;
between the choir and sanctuary is a
beautifully carved screen door inlaid
with wood and ivory, and an iconostasis
also inlaid with ivory; in a chapel
is a curious double picture on panel with
two saints on one side, and a crowned
female head, perhaps the Empress
Helena, on the other. The library
contains a small collection of old but
not ancient books and MSS. The
treasures unrespected and uncared for
which this convent once contained
have long since passed into safer keeping.
It was in a vault here that the
Duke of Northumberland and M. Linant-Bey
first discovered the remains
of the old Syriac library. Some of
the MSS. in this vault were brought
away by the late Lord Zouche (author
of Curzon's ‘Monasteries in the Levant')
in 1833. The remainder were
procured by Dr. Tattam and others
at different intervals, and now form
a collection of about 1000 volumes in
the British Museum. The oldest,
which contains, among other things,
some works of Eusebius, is conjectured
to have been written about A.D. 411.
Each monastery does or ought to
possess a ketáb sillemee, or vocabulary,
in which each Coptic word is placed
opposite its equivalent in Arabic; not
arranged alphabetically, but under
various heads, as parts of the human
body, vegetables, utensils. &c., as well
as the names of towns in Egypt.
These last have been of great use in
fixing the position of many ancient
places. It is, however, to be regretted
that some of the names are far from
certain, owing to the ignorant presumption
of the copyists, who have
often introduced the name they supposed
the town to have had, with or
in lieu of that in the MS. they were
employed to copy; e.g., in the vocabulary
at Dayr Macarius, Babylon is
said to be the same as On (the ancient
Heliopolis), and the Matarceyeh of the
Arabs.
At a short distance from Dayr
Suriáni is Dayr Amba Bishoí. The
principal church, dedicated to Amba
Bishoí, is a fine building, partially

basilican in form. The choir is shut
off more completely from the nave
than is usual in Coptic churches. On
the north side of the choir is the chapel
of El-Adra, which contains the bones
of Amba Bishoi, the patron saint of
the church. On the south of the choir
is the chapel of Aboo Iskharoon. In
the tower of the monastery is a chapel,
dedicated to St. Michael. The view
over the desert from the lofty and
massive walls of this convent is very
peculiar and striking.
A ride of 2 hrs. brings us to Dayr
Baramoós
, a large convent, for which
an antiquity of 1600 years is claimed.
There are two churches, and a chapel
in the tower, dedicated to St. Michael,
as is usual in these desert monasteries.
The finest church is that of El-Adra.
The refectory is worth a visit. Mr.
Butler thinks it dates from the fifth or
sixth century. Close by are the ruins
of another convent, Dayr Amba Moosa,
and the vestiges of a few others may
be traced here and there in the Natron
valley; but it would be difficult now
to discover the sites of the 50 mentioned
by Gibbon, or even half that
number. The modern monks, though
friendly and hospitable, are little
interested about the ruined abodes of
their predecessors: they are ignorant
even of the history of their church;
and it would be difficult to find any
one to point out the convent where
the ambitious Cyril passed some years
under the restraint of a monastic life.
About 3 1/2 m. from Dayr Baramoós,
near the end of one of the lakes, are
a few wattled huts, inhabited by the
collectors of natron. It is a convenient
spot to pass the night at, as
milk and eggs can be obtained. Wild
boars are found in the reed beds close
by. About 3 m. from these huts is
Zakook, a now deserted village, occupying
the site of an ancient glass
house, probably of the Roman period.
Vestiges of the house, and scoria of
common green glass may still be seen.
Zakook may possibly mark the position
of the town of Nitria. From here to
Teráneh is a journey of 11 or 12 hrs.

ROUTE 16.
ALEXANDRIA OR CAIRO TO THE OASIS
OF SEEWAH, OR AMMON.

This is a long and difficult journey,
presenting few objects of interest to
the ordinary traveller. To go and
return will require about 5 weeks.
Camels, tents, provisions, trustworthy
guides and a dragoman will be necessary.
(For hints on desert travelling,
see Rte. 14, a.) Letters of recommendation
should be obtained from
the Egyptian government. It is well
to take some trifling presents for the
sheykhs at the Oasis.
There are several routes which may
be followed. They will take from 11
to 15 days, according to the length of
each day's journey.
1. From Alexandria, by Baratoon.
This is the route followed by Alexander
the Great. It follows the sea-coast
as far as Baratoon, the ancient
Parætonium, and then turns S. to the
Seewah. At Baratoon are some ruins
of Parætonium, which Strabo describes
as a city, with a large port, measuring
40 stadia across. By some it was called
Ammonia.
After leaving Baratoon the road
turns S. into the desert.
2. From Cairo, by Wardan and the
Wády Natróon.
For the route to the
Wády Natróon see Rte. 15. After
leaving the Wády Natróon the road
lies by El-Maghra, or the Wády es-Soomar
(brackish water), Lebouk (salt
water), and Om es-Sogheer (good water).
Or, on leaving the Wády Natróon,
another road may be followed by
Hammam and Baratoon, but it is a
long round, and there is no good water
except at Hammam.
3. From Cairo by the Fayoom. For

the route to the Fayoom, see Rte. 18.
After leaving Medeenet el-Fayoom , the
road follows that to the Little Oasis
(see Rte. 17) as far as Rayán. It
then passes Rayán el-Sogheiyir (brackish
water); Ain Maghárah (good
water); El-Fereis (brackish water);
and El-Gara, a village on a steep
rock, surrounded by palm-groves.
4. From Cairo by the Little Oasis.
For routes to the Little Oasis, see Rte
17. After leaving El-Kasr, the road
passes at a short distance Ain Beledy;
Suttra
(4 days), a small irrigated spot
with salt water, but without any palms;
El-Arrag (1 1/2 to 2 days), where are
palms and springs of good water, to the
rt. of which, separated by a hill, is
Bahrayn, a valley with palms and
water; Mertesek (1 day), with a few
palms, and water under the sand.
Thence to Seewah is 1 day.
The Oasis of Ammon, or Seewah,
as it is called in Arabic, doubtless from
the ancient Egyptian name, is about
6 m. long by 4 1/2 to 5 in. wide. It is
divided into two parts, of which the eastern
is the more fertile. This part ends
in a lake of brackish water on the N.E.,
beyond which at a distance of about
10 miles is the small Oasis of Zaytoon.
There is also a lake of brackish water
on the W., on which side, from El-Garah
to El-Arasheeyeh there extends
for 50 miles a series of small oases, all
of which, together with that of Zaytoon,
are included in the map under the
general title of Seewah.
The Oasis is celebrated in history
for its famous oracle, for the purpose
of consulting which it was visited by
Alexander the Great. According to
Herodotus it was founded at the same
time as that of Dodona. Its repute
continued under the Ptolemies, but
fell off under the Roman rule. When
Pausanias visited it, about 160 A.D.,
it was dumb, and all that he found
were certain historical and literary
souvenirs of its former importance.
The Oasis subsequently became a place
of banishment for political offenders and
criminals. After the Mohammedan
conquest of Egypt it became entirely
independent and was governed by its
own sheykhs. It was hardly known to
the Arab geographers of the middle
ages, and the first European to visit it
was Alexander Browne, in 1792. Mohammed
Ali brought it again under
Egyptian rule in 1820, when Hassan
Bey Shamashirgee invaded and took it,
as well as the other oases. Since then
the inhabitants have more than once attempted
to regain their independence,
but always unsuccessfully.
The population of the Oasis is about
3500. The people are hospitable, but
suspicious and savage in their habits
and feelings. They are also very
fanatical, and impose severe fines on
those who fail in their religious observances.
All young men who have
reached the age of puberty, and
widowers, are obliged to reside in a
different part from the married people,
and though they may visit their parents,
must return to their own quarters before
sunset.
The administration of the government
is in the hands of several sheykhs,
some of whom hold office for life, and
others for 10 years. They dispense
justice, and maintain order. Fierce
feuds, however, attended with loss of
life, frequently take place between
different villages and families, which
are only stopped by the interference of
the fekkés (priests).
The people understand Arabic, but
have a peculiar language of their own.
The following are a few words: tegmirt,
horse; dalghrúmt, camel; zeetan,
donkey; sháha, goat; ragáwen, dates;
esdin, wheat; tineefayn, lentils.
The geological features resemble
those of all the oases. The soil is extremely
fertile and covered with fruit-trees,
principally the date-palm, of
which there are five kinds, the sultánee,
frahee, saidee, kaibee, ghazálee
, all of
excellent quality. These constitute
their principal commerce and source of
revenue.
The Town of Seewah, the capital of
the Oasis, has all the appearance of a
fortress. It is built on a rock arid
surrounded by strong walls flanked by
high round towers. The streets are
irregular and very narrow, and in many

places run beneath the houses, which
are built over them on arches; they are
consequently very dark, and a lantern
is required to find one's way about. The
houses are built one on the top of
another, often to a very considerable
height. The town itself contains no
remains.
Om Baydah (“White Mother”),
where are the ruins of the Temple of
Ammon
, or Amen, is about 2 in. E.
from Seewah, near the village of Gharmee,
and is surrounded by a forest of
date-palms. The ruins are not of very
great extent, but enough remains to
show the style of building, and many
of the sculptures are still preserved.
Amen-Kneph, or Amen, with the
attributes of the ram-headed god, is
the principal divinity. The figures of
other divinities are also preserved.
Near the temple, to the E., is a spring,
which is probably the Fountain of the
Sun.
About 1/2 m. to the S.E. of Om Baydah
is a hill called Drah Aboo Bereek,
and some ancient excavations, probably
tombs, and some unimportant Greek
inscriptions on the rocks. About 7 or
8 m. farther E. again, at the Zaytoon,
are ruins of buildings of the Roman-Egyptian
date.
Kasr Boom (the “Greek” or “Roman
Palace”) is about 5 m. to the W. of
Seewah. The road lies over a salt
plain and desert to Amoodayn (the
“two columns”), where are some unimportant
ruins; and thence to the
little village of El-Kameesch, built in
the midst of some old remains, amongst
which are those of a stone edifice.
Above, in the side of the hill, are a
number of small tombs. About in 1/2 m.
to the S. are the ruins of Kasr Room,
a small Doric temple of Roman date.
To the N. of this are some tombs in
the face of a hill, at the foot of which
are some other ruins, called Beled
Room.
About 110 miles W. of Siwah is
Jarabub, the headquarters of the great
Mohammedan religious sect of the Senoosi,
which has such an important
influence throughout North Africa,
especially in Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers.
The present head of the house
is Mohamed El-Senoosi, who lives at
Jarabub, which is well fortified and
could stand a siege. It is believed that
Christians are rigidly excluded.

ROUTE 17.
CAIRO TO THE LITTLE OASIS, THE
OASIS OF DAKHLEH, AND THE GREAT
OASIS BY THE FAYOOM.

A visit to these Oases will not come
within the scope of the ordinary traveller.
From whatever point the
start is made, it will be necessary to
make all the preparations for a desert
journey (see Rte. 14, a), and secure
trustworthy servants and guides.
The most frequented roads to the
Little Oasis are from the Fayoom and
from Behnesa, and the average distance
from them is the same, about
3 days' journey.
The Great Oasis may be visited from
Asyoot, from Geergeh by Abydus, from
Farshoot, from Thebes, or from Esneh;
and that of Dakhleh from Beni Adee
near Manfaloot, or by the Great Oasis.
The route by the Fayoom and the
Little Oasis includes El-Hayz and
Faráfreh, and gives the best idea of
the character of the African desert;
but most persons who go to the Oases
will be satisfied with a visit to the
Little Oasis from the Fayoom or from
Behnesa, and to the other two from
some point in Upper Egypt, returning
again to the same, or to some other
place on the Nile.
As it is not always easy to procure
camels at any of the places from which
a start will be made, it is well to procure
at Cairo a letter of recommendation
to the governor of the province.
There is little to vary the monotony
of the roads to the Oases, which lead
over a lofty table-land, intersected here
and there by small shallow valleys, or
ravines, worn by the water of rain

that occasionally falls there. The
Oases lie in certain depressions in this
mountain-plain, surrounded by cliffs
more or less precipitous, and very like
those to the E. and W. of the valley
of the Nile. In the centre, or in some
part of this depressed plain, is the
Oasis itself,—a patch of fertile soil,
composed of sand and clay, which owes
its origin to the springs that rise here
and there to fertilise it. Here are gardens,
palm-groves, fields, and villages,
not unlike a portion of the valley of
the Nile, with a sandy plain beyond,
in which stunted tamarisks, coarse
grasses, and other desert plants, struggle
to keep their heads above the drifted
sand that collects around them. The
distant hills, or the abrupt faces of the
high mountain-plain surrounding the
whole, complete the scene, and if you
ascend a minaret, or any point higher
than the rest, you may add to these
general features some stagnant lakes,
whose feverish exhalations cause and
account for the yellow complexion of
the inhabitants, and make it unsafe to
visit the Oases in summer or autumn.
The height of these Oases varies;
the Little Oasis being about 300 feet
higher than the Nile at Minieh, while
the Great Oasis and that of Dakhleh
are nearly on the same level. But in
all of them the water seems to rise
from an argillaceous bed, which in the
two former lies under limestone, and
in the latter under sandstone strata.
It may, however, be reasonably conjectured
that the water comes originally
from the Nile, whence, carried over
the clay, it finds its way to the different
Oases, as to the Natron valley; and
its occasionally rising, in a level higher
than the Nile in the same latitude, is
explained by its having entered the
conducting stratum at some more southerly,
and consequently more elevated,
part of the river's course.
In all of the Oases the cultivable
spots bear a very small proportion to
the dimensions of the valley over which
they are studded.
For the route from Cairo to Medeenet
el-Fayoom, see Rte. 18, c.
The first halt after leaving Medeeneh
will probably be at El-Gherek
(see p. 380), where the supply of water
for the journey should be taken in.
It is always better to have too much
water than too little, and rather more
than the Arabs say is necessary, as they
try to load their camels as lightly as
possible, and think little for the future.
The march from this point leads over
ground which Mr. Cope Whitehouse
considers was the former bed of Lake
Mœris. The next halting-place is
Wády Raián, abounding with palm-trees
and water, but the latter is
brackish, and only fit for camels.
About 15 m. to the S.E. of Wády
Raián, and some way to the 1. of the
road, is the valley of Moileh with a
ruined convent or monastery, and a
spring of salt water. It may be visited
on the way to Wády Raián, by making
a small détour, and is curious as a
Christian ruin. It contains 2 churches,
one of stone, the other of brick, and is
surrounded by a strong wall, with a
tower of defence on the N. side. In
the churches are several Coptic and
some Arabic inscriptions, and figures
of the Apostles and saints; and the
cornice that runs round a niche in the
stone church is richly carved, though
in bad taste. The total dimensions of
the convent are 89 paces by 65. In
the same valley are some curious specimens
of the picturesque wild palm-tree.
There is nothing remarkable on the
road to the Oasis; and one cluster of
acacia-trees appears a singular novelty.
On descending into the low plain in
which the Oasis, properly so called,
stands, you perceive that the calcareous
mountains repose on sandstone,
with a substratum of clay, holding
the water that rises from it in the
form of springs. You pass numerous
stunted tamarisk-bushes, some palms
and springs, then some stagnant lakes:
and after sinking in the salt-crust of
once flooded fields, that crackles under
your feet, you reach the thick palm-groves,
gardens, and villages of the
Oasis. It is divided into two parts,
separated by some isolated hills, over
which the principal road passes from
one to the other. Those hills are sand-stone,

and they present some curious
geological features
The Little Oasis, or Wahat el Bahariyeh,
is the Oasis Parva of the Romans.
It is also known as the Wah
el-Mendéesheh
, and the Wah el-Ghárbee,
though this last is properly its
western” division. The Arabic name
Wah or Wahat is the same as the
ancient Egyptian Ouah, Aua, or Oa,
which with the Greek termination
formed Auasis, or Oasis, and is the
Coptic Ouahe. According to the latest
accounts, the population of this Oasis is
5400.
There are four inhabited spots in the
oasis, which succeed one another from
E. to W.—Zubbo, Mandichah or Mandicheh
el Agoos, El-Kasr, and Bowitti.
Near Zubbo there is a small ruin;
Mandichah is a few minutes farther.
El-Kasr, about 1 1/2 m. from Mareeyeh,
is the most important place; it has a
Roman building, from which it derives
its name of “the Palace,” which was
once a handsome edifice, well built,
and ornamented with Doric mouldings;
and its arch, with the niches at the
side, has still a good effect. The Kasr
el-Alám, about 1 1/4 m. to the W. of El-Kasr,
is an insignificant crude-brick
ruin: there is another about 3/4 m. to
the S.W. of the same town. The
principal gardens are in the neighbourhood
of El-Kasr, and oranges, apricots,
pomegranates, vines, figs, bananas, and
other fruit-trees are numerous. Bowitti
is close to El-Kasr.
The most remarkable springs of
warm water, in which the oasis
abounds, are at Bowitti and El-Kasr,
the former having a temperature of
27° Réaum.; the latter, whose steam
is converted into a rude bath, of 27 1/4°
Réaum., or about 93 1/4° Fahr. With regard
to the real and apparent warmth
of the water of some of these springs,
an idea may be had from a pond formed
by them at Zubbo, whose water soon
after sunrise (Feb. 3), the exterior air
being 8 1/2° Réaum., was 18 1/2°, and quite
warm to the hand; at midday, the exterior
air being 15°, it was 21°, and cold
to the hand; and in the evening at 9
P.M., the exterior air being 12 1/2°, the
water was 20 1/4°, and consequently
warm to the hand; explaining the exaggerated
phenomena of the Fountain
of the Sun, in the Oasis of Ammon.
The pond is about 30 ft. wide, and 5 or
6 ft. in depth. It is the one mentioned
by Belzoni.
The Productions of this oasis are
similar to those of the valley of the
Nile; but the principal source of
wealth, as in the other Oases, is the
date-tree, which yields a very superior
quality of fruit. The dates are of four
kinds: the Sultánee, the Saïdee, which
are the best, the Káka, and the Ertob.
The proportion of fruit-trees is also
much greater than on the Nile. A
conserve of dates, called Agweh, is
made by pounding them in a mass,
and then mixing whole dates with it.
They make no brandy from dates,
but extract a palm-wine, called Lowbgeh,
from the heart of the tree.—an
intoxicating beverage, of which they
are very fond. It is thus made: in
the summer, when the sap is up, they
cut off all the geréeds (palm-branches),
except 3 or 4 in the middle: and
then, having made incisions in every
part of the heart, at the foot of those
branches, they stretch a skin all
round, to conduct the juice into a jar
placed there to receive it. Some
palms fill a jar in one night, holding
about. 6 pints. It is sweetened with
honey, and drunk as soon as made;
and its taste and effect are very much
like new wine, with the flavour of
cider. The heart of the palm-tree is
also cut out and eaten. But this, like
the process of making the wine, spoils
the tree. (Cf. Xenoph. Anab. 2, 3.)
The people of the Nile, therefore, never
taste the former unless a tree falls, as
they cannot afford to sacrifice what
costs them an annual duty. They
also make treacle from the dates; and
they lay up dried pomegranates for the
winter and spring. The liquorice-roots
(soos) are sent to the Nile in baskets,
and are used for making a sort of
sherbet.
Though the inhabitants of the Oasis
are a much less industrious and energetic
race than the fellaheen of Egypt,
they pay considerable attention to the

cultivation of their lands; but they
have not to undergo the same toil in
raising water as on the Nile, the
streams that constantly flow from plentiful
springs affording a convenient
and never-failing supply for irrigation.
But the stagnant lakes created by the
surplus of water exhale a pernicious
miasma, causing a dangerous remittent
fever, which annually rages in the
summer and autumn: and the Arabs
of the desert consider it unsafe to visit
these districts at any other season than
the winter and the spring.
El-Hayz.—The small Wah of El-Hayz
is a short day to the S. of the
Little Oasis, of which, indeed, it is a
continuation. It has springs and cultivated
land belonging to the people of
El-Kasr and Bowitti, who go there at
certain seasons to till it. and collect the
crops. But it has no village, and the
only appearance of buildings is at El-Errees,
where a ruined church shows it
was once the abode of Christian monks.
This consists of a nave and aisles, with
rooms on the upper story. Some of
the arches have the horseshoe form;
and over a window is a Coptic inscription.
About 600 paces to the S. W. is
another crude-brick ruin, about 74 paces
by 50, within the walls, which are
about 30 ft. high, and near this are
much pottery and some nebk-trees,
which indicate the previous existence
of a garden, either belonging to a monastery
or a town.
Faráfreh.—About 3 days from El-Hayz
are the Oasis and village of Faráfreh,
containing about 450 inhabitants.
The kassob, “cane,” mentioned by Ibnel-Werde,
appears to be the dokhn or
millet (Holcus saccharatus), grown in
this district; and it is remarkable that
the name kassob, usually confined to
sugar-cane, is here applied to millet.
The productions of Faráfreh are very
much the same as those of the other
Oases, but it excels them in the quality
of its olives, which are exported to the
Little Oasis. Faráfreh was formerly
called Trinytheos Oasis, but it boasts
no remains of antiquity. It has a
castle or stronghold that commands
and protects the village in case of
attack from the Arabs, or more dangerous
enemies. The ancient name
was Ta-ah, the “land of kine.”
Oasis of the Blacks.—This Oasis is
5 or 6 days W. of the road to Faráfreh.
It is also called Wády Zerzoora, and is
about the size of the Little Oasis,
abounding in palms, with springs, and
some ruins of uncertain date. It was
discovered at the beginning of the century
by an Arab while in search of a
stray camel, and from seeing the footsteps
of men and sheep he supposed it
to be inhabited. Gebábo, another
Wah, lies 6 days beyond this to the W.,
and 12 days from Augila; and Tazerbo,
which is still farther to the W., forms
part of the same Oasis. The general
belief is that Wády Zerzoora also communicates
with it. The inhabitants
are black, and many of them have been
carried off at different times by the
Moghrebbins for slaves: through the
“Valleys of the Blacks,” a series of
similar Oases lie still farther to the W.
According to another account, Zerzoora
is only 2 or 3 days due W. from
Dakhleh, beyond which is another
Wády; then a second, abounding in
cattle; then Gebábo and Tazerbo; and
beyond these, Wády Rebeeána. Gebábo
is inhabited by two tribes of
Blacks, the Simertayn and Ergezayn.
The influence of the Senoosi sect is
believed to have spread among the inhabitants
of these western Oases.
Oasis of Dakhleh.—Four days to the
S. of Faráfreh is the Wahet el-Ghárbee,
or Wahet ed-Dakhleh , “the Western
or Inner Oasis.” It is called in the
hieroglyphic inscriptions, Testes. The
name of Dakhleh is put in opposition
to Khargeh (which is given to the
Great Oasis that lies E. of it),—the
one meaning the “receding,” the other
the “projecting” Wah; Khargeh
being called projecting, as being nearer
to Egypt. The population of this
Oasis is about 15,000.
A great portion of the road from
Faráfreh lies between two of the
numerous high ridges of drifted sand
that extend for many miles, nearly due

N. and S., parallel to each other.
There is no water after passing Ain ed
Dthukker
, the halting-place of the
first day's march
The first point we reach in the
oasis is El-Kasr, the chief town,
containing about 3500 inhabitants, and
with some fairly good houses. In the
middle of the town is a mineral
spring, the water from which fertilises
the surrounding laud, and supplies
some baths attached to the mosque. It
issues at a temperature of 102° Fahr.
The Sheykhs of El-Kasr call themselves
of the tribe of Koraysh, and
say that their ancestors, having migrated
to this part of the country about
400 years ago, bought the springs and
lands, which they have ever since possessed.
A little more than 5 in. to the
W.S.W. of the modern town of El-Kasr
is a sandstone temple, called
Dayr el-Hágar, “the Stone Convent,”
the most interesting ruin in this Oasis.
It has the names of Nero and Titus in
the hieroglyphics; and on the ceiling
of the adytum is part of an astronomical
subject. Amen, Maut and Khonso,
the Theban triad, were the principal
deities: and the ram-headed Knum, or
Kneph, and Harpocrates were among
the contemplar gods; but the Theban
Jupiter and Maut held the post of
honour. The temple consists of a
vestibule, with screens half-way up the
columns; a portico, or a hall of assembly;
a transept or prosekos; and the
central and two side adyta; 121 ft.
before the door of the vestibule is a
stone gateway or pylon, the entrance
to an area measuring 235 ft. by 130,
surrounded by a crude-brick wall. At
the upper or W. end of it are the remains
of stuccoed rooms; and on the
N.E. side are some columns covered
also with stucco, and coloured.
There are many crude-brick remains
in the neighbourhood; and about 1 1/2 m.
from El-Kasr are the extensive mounds
of an ancient town with a sandstone
gateway. The fragments of stone
which lie scattered about appear to
indicate the site of a temple, now destroyed.
Those mounds are about half
a mile square, and below them to the
E. is a spring called Ain el-Keeád,
whence they have received the name of
Medeeneh Keeád. They are also known
as Lémhada. The only ruins now remaining
are of crude brick, apparently
of Roman time.
The next place of importance is
Kalamoon, 8 in. S. of El-Kasr, pop.
2800, a well-built village, whose
sheykhs, the Shórbagees, claim the
honour of having governed the Oases
from the time of Sultan Selim.
From Kalamoon we turn due E. in
the direction of the Great Oasis, and
reach in about 10 m. the village of
Isment, where is the capital of a column
with an Athor (or Isis) head,
and near it some crude-brick ruins
called, as usual, ed-Dayr, “the Convent.”
About 1 1/2 m. to the S.W. is
Másarah. Continuing E. 2 1/2 m. brings
us to the ruins of a large town, called
Isment el-Khardb, “the ruined Isment.”
The most remarkable remains
there are a sandstone building measuring
19 paces by 9, consisting of 2
chambers, in a very dilapidated state;
and, another near it, measuring 5 paces
by 5, with an addition before and behind
of crude brick, stuccoed and
painted in squares and flowers. Nineteen
paces in front of it is a stone gateway,
the entrance to the area in which
it stood. There are also some large
crude-brick buildings ornamented with
pilasters, apparently of Roman-Egyptian
time; within which are vaulted
chambers of sandstone. Many of the
houses of the town remain, mostly
vaulted and stuccoed; and the streets
may easily be traced. A little more
than 1 m. from this are other ruins,
called Kasr el-Aréeseh.
About 7 1/2 m. E. of this is Ballat, a
large village surrounded by walls, and
containing about 2000 inhabitants.
The water here is very good, and a
stock of it had better be laid in. The
small village of Beshendy is 3 m. farther
E.; and at about the same distance
beyond is Ain el-Beerbeh, where
are some ruins. In another hour we
reach Teneydeh, a large village with
water and rich vegetation. It is the
last inhabited spot in the Oasis.
Though noticed by Arab writers, the
position and even the existence of this

Oasis were unknown in modern times,
until visited by Sir A. Edmonston in
1819. It extends about 15 in. from N.
to S., and 28 m. from E. to W. The
population is reckoned at over 6000
males, and it contains 11 villages. Its
condition is superior to that of the
other Oases, and the numerous remains
of ancient towns and villages prove
that it was the same in former times.
The people are more hospitable, and
less ignorant and bigoted than those
of the Little Oasis or that of Faráfreh.
Much rice is grown; and fruits, particularly
apricots and olives, abound;
but dates, as in all the Oases, are the
principal source of revenue.
Road from the Oasis of Dakhleh to
the Great Oasis
.—Continuing from the
last point reached in the Wah ed-Dakhleh,
we advance always E., and
in 4 hrs. leave the depression formed
by that Oasis and enter a defile, which
after an ascent of 4 hrs. brings us to
the top of the plateau. In 3 hrs., an
isolated conical hill called Aboo Tarboor
is reached; and 2 hrs. farther we
descend from the torrent-riven plain
by a ravine, which in 1/2 hr. leads to
Ain Amoor, a spring sheltered with
palm-trees, and close to which are the
ruins of an old temple, with a large
enclosure of crude brick, intended to
protect the temple, and secure access
to the spring. Kneph, Amen-Ra, and
Maut are the principal deities. Though
the name seems to be of a Cæsar, the
temple has an appearance of greater
antiquity than the generality of those
in the Oases; no remains of a town
have been found, and it is possible
that this temple and enclosure were
only intended to add a sanctity to the
site of the spring, and to ensure its
protection.
Ain Amoor is situated on the slope
of Gebel Ain Amoor, more than 1000 ft.
above the valley of the same name.
From this point there is a long wearisome
march of 13 hrs., for the most
part over a sandy plain strewn with
black conglomerate, till we reach a
sandstone hill, from which there is a
pleasing and welcome view of the Great
Oasis, at the borders of which we
arrive in another 3/4 hr.
The Great Oasis or Wahat el-Khargeh
has also the name Menamoon, which
may be taken from Ma-en-Amen, “the
Abode of Amen.” It is mentioned
in the hieroglyphic inscriptions under
the name Kenem. Herodotus speaks
of a city called Oasis, seven days'
journey from Thebes, and called in
Greek the “Island of the Blessed,”
which is probably this Oasis. Cambyses'
army reached it on its way to
the Oasis of Ammon, and perished in
the desert, half-way to the latter place.
By the other Oases it was used as a
place of exile; and Nestorius, after
his condemnation by the Council of
Ephesus, was banished here in A.D. 435.
The Oasis is about 90 m. long from
N. to S., by about 12 in. broad from
E. to W.; but a great part of it is
desert, with cultivable spots here and
there. The population may be estimated
at 6200. The productions are
much the same as those of the other
Oases, with the addition of the dômpalm,
wild senna, and some other
plants, but it is inferior in point of
general fertility.
Approaching as we have done on
the W. side, the first object of interest
reached is a Columbarium, consisting
of a large arched chamber, pierced with
small cells for cinerary urns, capable of
containing the condensed residue of
numerous burnt bodies. It measures
about 17 ft. by 8 ft., and about 20 ft.
in height. Beyond it are other ruins
and tombs; then another columbarium,
and a tower about 40 ft. high, in which
were once separate stories, the lower
rooms arched, the upper ones having
had roofs supported by rafters. The
tower protected a well, and was probably
an outpost for soldiers. About
1/3 of a mile to the N. of this, and
S.E. of the columbarium, are the remains
of another tower and ruined
walls; beyond which is another ruin
of crude brick with an arched roof,
and a door in the Egyptian style.
Half a mile farther are other crude-brick
ruins on the hills, and an old
well about 50 ft. in diameter. About
a mile beyond, to the S., is the Kasr

Ain es Sont (“the Palace (or castle) of
the Acacia Fountain”), so called from
a neighbouring spring. It consists of
about 30 rooms and passages, with
staircases leading to the upper part,
and the exterior is ornamented with
the Egyptian cornice. It is of crude
brick, and probably of Roman time;
and in the wall facing the well a stone
niche or doorway has been put up in
the midst of the brickwork. In one
of the rooms are some Coptic inscriptions.
There are other ruins near this,
all a little out of the direct road; and
beyond are some tombs, one of which
is ornamented with pilasters, and a
pediment over the entrance.
Leaving the Necropolis (see p. 375)
about 1/2 m. on the left, and passing in
1 1/2 m. the Great Temple (see below),
we reach 1 1/2 m. farther
El Khárgeh, the capital of the Oasis,
a large village of 3800 inhabitants.
The Great Temple of El-Khárgeh,
as has been already said, is 1 1/2 m. to
the W. of the village. It is much
larger than any other ruin in the Oases,
and is an interesting monument. It
was dedicated to Amen, or Amen-Ra;
and it is worthy of remark that the
ram-headed god has here the same
name as the long-feathered Amen of
Thebes. It may be observed in explanation
of this that we are not to
look upon the ram-headed god as
Amen, but to remember that it is
Amen who, in accordance with the
common practice, has assumed the
head of a ram, in the same way as he
takes the form of Khem, or any other
god. It was this assumption of an
attribute of Kneph, particularly in
the Oasis, that led to the error of the
Greeks and Romans, in representing
Amen with the head of a ram as a
general form of that deity.
The sculptures of the temple are not
of the spirited style of the early Pharaonic
ages; though some are by no
means bad, particularly on the transverse
wall separating the front from
the back part of the portico. In the
adytum the figures are small, and the
subjects very extraordinary, probably
of Ptolemaic or Roman time, when
extravagant emblems took the place
of the more simple forms of an earlier
period.
The oldest name met with is that of
Darius, which occurs in many places.
The inscription of that king recounting
the building and dedication of the
Temple, together with a hymn on
the S.W. wall of the 2nd chamber,
addressed to the elements by the god
Amen-ra, has been translated by Dr.
Birch in ‘Records of the Past,’ vol.
viii. On a screen before the temple
is the name of Amyrtæus. There are
also several Greek inscriptions on
the front gateway or pylon, one of
which, bearing the date of the first
year of the Emperor Galba, consists of
66 lines.
The fullest and latest account of
the temple with its inscriptions and
remains is to be found in Dr. Brugsch's
'Reise nach dem grossen Oase el-Khargeh
in der Libyschen Wüste
,' which
contains an account of his visit to the
Oasis in 1875.
The whole length of the temple measures
about 142 ft. by 63 ft., and about
30 ft. in height. Attached to the front
of it is a screen, with a central and two
side doorways; and in the dromos is a
succession of pylons, one before the
other, at intervals of 80, 70, and 50 ft.
50 ft. in front of the outer pylon is an
hypæthral building on a raised platform,
terminating the dromos, from
which there is an ascent to it by a flight
of steps. The temple was enclosed
within a stone wall, abutting against
the innermost pylon. This formed the
temenos. Near the S. W. corner is
another smaller hypæthral building,
and some distance to the N. of the temple
is a small stone gateway. On the
summit of the second or middle pylon
of the dromos some brickwork has been
raised in later times by the Arabs,
forcibly recalling the additions made
during the middle ages to many Roman
buildings in Italy. The stone
part itself is much higher than the
other two gateways, being about 45 ft.
to the top of the cornice; while the
other two, the first and innermost, are
only respectively 15 ft. 7 in. and 20 ft.

3 in. The stones are well fitted, and
have been fastened together with
wooden dovetailed cramps.
In the vicinity of the temple stood
the ancient town. It bore the name
of Ibis, or, in Egyptian, Hebi, “the
Plough,” under which character it is
frequently designated in the hieroglyphics
with the sign of land, and it
was the capital of the Great Oasis.
On a height, S.E. from the temple,
is a stone temple called En-Nádara,
surrounded by a spacious crude-brick
enclosure, which bears the names of
Hadrian and Antonius.
To the N. is a remarkable Necropolis,
consisting of about 150 crude-brick
tombs ornamented with pilasters
and niches. On the stucco within are
represented various subjects, which, as
well as the style of architecture and
the presence of a church, decide that
they are of a Christian epoch. The
inscriptions on their walls are mostly
Coptic and Arabic; and the sacred
Tau, the Egyptian symbol of life,
adopted by these early Christians, frequently
occurs here instead of the cross
of their successors.
There are many other ruins in the
vicinity of El-Khárgeh.
The other places in this Oasis, going
N. from El-Khárgeh to Asyoot, are
Kasr Biyár el-Hágar (4 hrs.); Ain es
Shaagh
(3 hrs.); and Kasr Gebel es
Sont
(1 hr.).
S. of El-Khárgeh there is more to
see. We first reach Gaéenah (2 hrs.);
and then Kasr el Goéytah (1 hr.), where
is a temple with the names of Ptolemy
Euergetes I., of Philopater, and of
Lathyrus. It was dedicated to Amen,
Maut, and Khonso,—the great Theban
triad.
At Kasr Ain ez-Zayán is another
temple, which was restored in the third
year of Antoninus Pius, and was dedicated
to Amenébis or Amen-Kneph. A
Greek dedicatory inscription over the
door of the temple contains this name
and that of the town, which was called
Tchónemyris.
The village of Boolák (1 1/2 hr.), containing
about 700 inhabitants, is next
reached, about 1/2 hr. beyond which is
the supposed tomb of the famous Eméer
Kháled ebn el-Weléed.
Dekakeen (7 hrs.) follows, with low
hills and springs, and a ruined village
on the right, and then Bayrées (2 1/2
hrs.), a good sized village of 1300
inhabs. At Doosh (3 hrs.) is a temple,
which has the names of Domitian and
Hadrian, and was dedicated to Serapis
and Isis; but the Greek inscription on
the pylon has the date of the 19th year
of Trajan. The ancient name of the
town was Cysis; and the inhabitants
added this stone gateway for the good
fortune of the emperor, and in token
of their own piety.
The last place is Kasr Rahad
(1 1/2 hr.).
Roads from the Great Oasis to the
Nile.
—There are three principal roads,
viz., to Asyoot. Geergeh, and Esneh.
The road to Asyoot (p. 421) goes from
Dakhleh, and is the longest. It is
the one along which the great slave
caravans used to pass on their way from
Darfoor to Egypt through the Great
Oasis. Slaves used also to be brought
this way by Takróorees, who are
blacks from the interior of Africa, and
Moslems, but are looked upon as an
inferior kind of merchant. The great
and wealthy Jelábs were from Darfoor,
who sometimes brought from 2000 to
4000 slaves. The rate of travelling
by the slave caravan was very slow;
they only went from sunrise to half-past
2 or 3 P.M., or about 8 hrs.'
march; and the journey from Darfoor
to Bayrées, at the S. of the Oasis, occupied
31 days—10 from Darfoor to the
Natron plain, called Zeghráwa, 7 to
Elegeeyeh, 4 to Seleémeh, 5 to Sheb,
and 5 to Bayrées.
The road to Geergeh (p. 432). also
from Dakhleh, is shorter, and the journey
is only about 40 hrs.
After 6 hrs. from El-Khárgeh, you
come to a Roman fort of crude brick,
about 90 paces square, with a doorway
of burnt brick on one side. The walls
are very thick, about 50 ft. high, and
defended by strong towers projecting
at the corners and three of the faces;
and, from its position, about 100 paces
S. of the spring, it is evident that it

was intended for the protection of this,
the only watering-place on the way
to the Nile. It is called Ghanaseem,
and also Ed-Dayr, “the Convent,”
probably in consequence of its having
been occupied at a subsequent period
by the Christians, who have left another
ruined building in the vicinity,
with two vaulted chambers, in which
are some Coptic and Arabic inscriptions.
Seven minutes' walk to the
N.W. from the fort is another ruin,
with vaulted chambers, but without
inscriptions.
The rest of the journey occupies
nearly 3 days, or from 32 to 34 hrs.'
march. Nothing is met with on the
way but remains of enclosures made
with rough stones, at intervals; and
much broken pottery, during the second
day's journey. Instead of going direct
to Geergeh the traveller may turn off
and take the opportunity to visit
Abydus (p. 433).
The road to Esneh (p. 510) goes from
near Gaeenah, and thence across the
desert to the Nile. The journey is
performed in about 50 hours.

ROUTE 18.
CAIRO TO THE FAYOOM.

a. Preliminary Hints. b. Description
of the Fayoom. c. Cairo to Medeeneh.
d. Excursions from Medeeneh
to the Labyrinth and Lake
Mœris, and other ruins. e. Tour
from Medeeneh to Birket el-Korn,
Kasr Kharoon, and other places in
the Fayoom.

a. PRELIMINARY HINTS.

By those who have the time to spare
this expedition is well worth undertaking,
as it introduces them to a
country differing a good deal in its
general aspect from the valley of the
Nile. The antiquary will find much to
interest him in the supposed sites of
Lake Mœris and the Labyrinth, and
the ruins on the shore of the Birket
el-Korn; while to the sportsman the
Fayoom in the winter months offers
more attractions than any other part
of Egypt. The preparations for the
journey will of course depend on the
time intended to be spent; but tents,
beds, and all the etceteras necessary
to a camp life, must be taken, unless
the traveller is content with a visit
to Medeeneh and the neighbourhood,
and while there can put up with the
accommodation afforded by a Greek
café. For a tour through the Fayoom,
including Medeeneh, the Labyrinth,
the site of Lake Mœris, the Birket el-Korn,
and the ruins in the neighbourhood,
about a week or 10 days will be
required. Messrs. Cook should be consulted
in arranging this excursion. A
dragoman will charge about 25s. to
30s. a day for providing everything
(wine excepted), including railway
fares. The best way of reaching the
Fayoom is by railway as far as Medeeneh.
There camels and donkeys
can be procured for visiting the Birket
el-Korn and other places.
An introduction to the Mudeer at
Medeeneh will be found useful in helping
the traveller to procure camels and
donkeys.
If the traveller visits the Fayoom from
his dahabeeych he can leave the river
at Wasta going up and at Benisooéf
coming down, rejoining his boat again
at Benisooéf going up and at Wasta
coming down.

b. DESCRIPTION OF THE FAVOOM.

The province of Egypt called the
Fayoom is a natural depression in the
Libyan hills, surrounded on all sides
by desert, save where a narrow strip of
soil borders the canal leading to it from
the Nile. It is thus almost an oasis,
owing its fertility to the water of the
Nile, introduced through a natural isthmus
in the desert surrounding it. Its
present name, Fayoom , is probably
derived from the old Egyptian word
Pi-om, or Pha-joom, “the Sea” or
“lake country “—an appellation aptly

applied to a country which contained
such a splendid system for storing and
distributing water, as that with which
the Fayoom was endowed by King
Amenemhat III., the constructor of
Lake Mœris and the Labyrinth. In
the hieroglyphic inscriptions it is referred
to as Ta-she, “the land of the
lake.” In Ptolemaic and Roman times
this province was called the Arsinoite
nome which, Strabo says, excelled all
other in appearance, in goodness, and
in condition. It was the only place
where the olive-tree arrived at any
size, or bore good fruit, except the
gardens of Alexandria. It also produced
a great quantity of wine, as well
as corn, vegetables, and plants of all
kinds. According to tradition it contained
366 towns and villages; and,
though this can hardly be credited, it
is evident that it was a populous nome
of ancient Egypt, and that many places
once existed both in its centre and on
its now barren skirts. Indeed the
cultivated land extended formerly far
beyond its present limits: a great
portion of the desert plain was then
taken into cultivation, and several
places may be noted where canals and
the traces of cultivated fields are still
discernible to a considerable distance E.
and W. of the modern irrigated lands.
Its reputation for fertility it still enjoys,
and though its merits have been
greatly exaggerated, it is certainly
superior to other parts of Egypt from
the state of its gardens and the variety
of its productions; since, in addition
to corn, cotton, and the usual cultivated
plants, it abounds in roses, apricots, figs,
grapes, olives, and several other fruits,
which grow there in greater perfection
and abundance than in the valley of
the Nile; and the rose-water used in
Cairo comes from the neighbourhood of
Medeeneh.
The whole extent of the cultivable
part of the Fayoom measures about 23
m. N. and S., and 28 E. and W., which
last was in former times extended to
upwards of 40 in that part (from Kasr
Kharoon to Tomeeah) where it has the
greatest breadth. Its length N. and S.,
if measured to the other side of the
Birket el-Korn, is increased to 32 m.
The total population is about 200,000.
The annual revenue from the Fayoom
is 165,000l. Its chief commerce is in
corn, cotton, and cattle, chiefly sheep,
of which it possesses the best breed
in Egypt. In addition to the various
products mentioned above, the sugarcane
has lately been planted by the
Viceroy on large tracts of land, and
mills have been erected in various
parts.

c. CAIRO TO MEDEENEH.

The train leaves the Boolak Dakroor
station of the Upper Egypt railway
at 8.30 A.M. (see Environs of Cairo,
Exc. viii.), and, passing Bedreshayn
and some other stations, reaches
El-Wasta Junc. Stat. for the Fayoom,
56 in. from Cairo, in about 2 hrs. The
train leaves Wasta for the Fayoom at
10.50 A.M. arriving at Medeeneh at
12.0 noon. There is also an evening
train from Boolak Dakroor at 3.0 P.M.
arriving at Medeeneh at 7.0 P.M. The
line goes straight westward across
the cultivated land. The only noticeable
object is the Pyramid of Maydoom
(see p. 391) to the N. On
reaching the desert the road begins
to ascend, and crosses the low chain
of hills that divides the valley of the
Nile from the oasis of the Fayoom.
El-Edwa Stat., 20 m. A small village
on the edge of the cultivated
land. There is capital shooting of
various kinds to be obtained in the
neighbourhood. Geese, ducks, water-birds
of every description, and snipe
abound in the winter months, and
quail a little later. There are a number
of half-natural, half-artificial,
dykes between El - Edwa and Tomeeah,
to which birds resort in great
numbers. Those who are intent on
sport had better pitch their tents at
El-Edwa, and make shooting excursions
in the neighbourhood.
Medeeneh Stat., 5 m. The capital
town of the Fayoom, and so often called
Medeenet-el-Fayoom, and Medeenet-el-Fares
(“City of the Knight or Horseman”).
It has 25,800 inhabitants,
and presents the usual aspect of a large
Egyptian town, with bazaars, baths,

Greek coffee-houses, and a market
every Sunday. It is situated on the
banks of one of the two main branches
of the Bahr Yoosef, which conduct the
water into the Fayoom through an
opening in the hills near Benisooef.
This branch canal, like nearly all those
in the Fayoom, has quite the appearance
of a natural river. To the N. of
the modern town are the mounds which
mark the site of Arsinoë, formerly Crocodilopolis ,
the Egyptian city of Shat
or Pi-Sebek (“the abode of Sebek”), in
which was worshipped the sacred
crocodile kept in the Lake Mœris.
Many objects of interest, especially
lamps, and other articles of bronze, belonging
to the Christian period, have
been found here. Leo Africanus says,
“the ancient city was built by one of
the Pharaohs, on an elevated spot near
a small canal from the Nile, at the time
of the Exodus of the Jews, after he
had afflicted them with the drudgery
of hewing stones and other laborious
employments.” Professor Sayce considers
these the most interesting remains
in the Fayoom.

d. EXCURSIONS FROM MEDEENEH TO
THE
LABYRINTH AND LAKE MŒRIS,
AND OTHER PLACES
.

A visit to the site of the Labyrinth ,
and the crude-brick pyramid of Hawárah,
which stands at its northern end,
may be made from Medeeneh. The
distance in a direct line is not more
than 5 or 6 m, but a détour of more
or less length will have to be made,
according to the time of year and the
state of the canals. Care should be
taken to ascertain that the donkey-boy
who acts as guide knows the way,
and the proper places for crossing the
various canals, especially the arm of
the Bahr Yoosef which runs N. to
Tomecab, and the deep, narrow canal
which flows through the W. side of
the Labyrinth. This arm of the Bahr
Yoosef presents here the appearance of
a natural ravine, sometimes confined
between steep banks, and at others
widening out to a breadth of several
hundred feet. Between it and the
ruins are a succession of mounds,
through which, immediately skirting
the pyramid and the ruins, runs the
narrow modern canal above referred to.
The site of the Labyrinth , which
had long been a subject of doubt, was
fixed by Lepsius and the Prussian
commission. But little remains to
justify the extravagant admiration
bestowed on it by Herodotus, who says,
“I visited this place, and found it to
surpass description: for if all the walls
and other great works of the Greeks
were put together in one, they would
not equal, either for labour or expense,
this Labyrinth:” and he adds that
“the Labyrinth surpasses the Pyramids.”
The founder of the Labyrinth
has been variously named by ancient
authors, but it seems probable that its
builder was Amenemhat III., of the
XIIth Dynasty, the same who constructed
the Lake Mœris. His is the
oldest name found among the ruins.
The whole extent of the Labyrinth,
including the pyramid, measured about
1150 ft. E. and W. by 850 ft. N. and S.,
and it appears to have been built round
an open area 500 ft. broad and 600 ft.
in length. Within this area lie such
remains as can still be seen, consisting
of broken columns and capitals, of
granite and hard white limestone.
The hieroglyphics on the granite have
been painted green. Herodotus says
that there were 12 courts, and two
different sets of chambers, 1500 above
ground, and beneath them 1500 under
ground, and that the underground ones
contained the sepulchres of the kings
who built the Labyrinth, and also those
of the sacred crocodiles.”
The word Labyrinth has been ingeniously
derived from the ancient
Egyptian ra-hunt or la-hunt (the
mouth of a reservoir). “The temple of
the mouth of the reservoir” would be
ra-pe-ro-hunt, or la-pe-lo-hunt, and
would give us the derivation not of
labyrinth only, but also of Illahoon, the
name of the neighbouring pyramid.
The crocodile was the sacred animal
of the nome, giving its name to the
city of Crocodilopolis; and it was the
hatred of the inhabitants of the neighbouring
province of Heracleopolis for
this animal that caused the destruction

of the Labyrinth. It has been well
observed that the reason of the crocodile,
the eel, and other fish being
sacred in inland towns of Egypt was
to ensure the maintenance of the
canals which conducted to those places
the fresh water without which they
could not live,
To the N. of these ruins is a crude-brick
pyramid, generally called the
Pyramid of Hawârah. When entire
it was 348 ft. square; but it is much
ruined. The style of its building, in
degrees, or stories, to which sloping
triangular sides were afterwards added,
is very evident. The bricks are very
large, and appear to be of a great age.
Strabo gives 4 plethra (400 ft.) for the
length of each face, and the same for
the height, which Herodotus calculates
at 40 fathoms (240 ft.). A natural
rock rises inside to the height of about
40 ft. Several stone walls, intersecting
it in regular lines, act as binders to the
intermediate mass of brickwork built
in between them: and the outside was
coated with a stone casing.
About 8 m. to the S. of the Labyrinth
is another crude-brick pyramid near
the village of Illahoon, a short distance
to the S.W. of which, at a village called
Hawárah, are the great stone dykes
and sluices, mentioned by Aboolfeda,
that regulate the quantity of water
admitted into the Fayoom. Some
remains of older bridges and dykes
swept away by various irruptions of
the Nile are seen there: and to the
W. is a dyke, serving as a communication
with the high land at the edge
of the desert during the inundation.
From the branch of the Bahr Yoosef
which runs from the bridge of
Illahoon to Medeeneh, numerous canals
conduct the water to various parts of
the province, the quantity being regulated
by sluices, according to the wants
of each. As of old, they offer still a
more interesting specimen of irrigation
than any other part of Egypt.
From Illahoon to Benisooéf on the
Nile (see Rte. 19) is about 14 m. in a
direct line. On the road about 2 m.
to the S.W. of the bridge of Illahoon
are the mounds of an ancient town,
called Tóma, which, from its name and
position, probably marks the site of
Ptolemais, the port of Arsinoë. Farther
on to the right you see the lofty
mounds of Anásieh, the ancient Heracleopolis,
which stood in an island
formed by the canal. The mounds of
Noayreh, Baheh, Beshennee, Beliffieh,
Kom Ahmar
, and others, also mark the
sites of old towns.
Most visitors to the Fayoom will be
anxious to visit the site of the Lake
Mœris
, of which Herodotus says,
“Wonderful as is the Labyrinth, the
work called the Lake of Mœris, which
is close by the Labyrinth, is yet more
astonishing.” The position of this
lake has not yet been satisfactorily determined,
as there is little or nothing
to mark the ground it occupied. Some
travellers have assumed that it occupied
the site of the Birket el-Korn,
but this is doubtful. The accounts
of Herodotus, Strabo, and Pliny,
though widely different, all seem to
show that it was an artificial lake, dug
for the purpose of receiving the superfluous
waters of the Nile during the
inundation, and then, by means of
locks and sluices, distributing them
during the dry season throughout the
Fayoom and the surrounding country
above and below Memphis. This
function could never have been discharged
by the Birket el-Korn, the
surface of which lies considerably
lower than the cultivated land; nor,
making every allowance for the rise of
the bed of the river and the surrounding
country from the continued deposit
of alluvium, could they ever have been
nearly on the same level, even in
Herodotus' time; and the ruins at the
water's edge of the Birket el-Korn
show that its surface was at any rate
never higher than it now is. It is probable
that when the inundation was
excessive, and the Lake Mœris overflowed,
the superfluous water was
carried off into this natural depression
of the Birket el-Korn. But the artificial
reservoir of Lake Mœris must
have been on a level with the lands it
was intended to supply with water.
Its position has been fixed by M.

Linant-Bey in the centre of the plateau
of the Fayoom. He discovered to
the N., N.E., and S. of Medeeneh,
remains of an old dyke of great
strength, extending over an area of
some 30 m. Within the circumference
of these remains was Lake Mœris.
Biahmoo, about 4 in. to the N. of Medeeneh,
formed the N.W. angle; from
thence the dyke can be traced for
about 10 m. E. as far as Wády-Wardán,
and 18 in. S., as far as Ghérek.
That this may have been the position
of Lake Mœris is further proved by
the now ascertained site of the Labyrinth,
which, Herodotus tells us, was
“a little above Lake Mœris, in the
neighbourhood of Crocodilopolis.” His
assertion that it was 450 m. in circumference
may be explained by the
supposition that he embraced in this
measurement the whole water-system
of the Fayoom, the Birket el-Korn
included.
Mr. Cope Whitehouse, on the contrary,
assumes that the Lake occupied a
great natural depression to the S. of the
Birket el-Korn, and lying between N.
lat. 28° 40′ and 29° 30′. There is no
doubt that this lies at a considerable
depth below the Nile valley, capable of
being utilized as a great storage reservoir.
Mr. Whitehouse has submitted
a project to the Egyptian Government
for forming a storage basin in this
valley.
The conception and execution of
Lake Mœris were due to Amenemhat
III. of the XIIth Dynasty, the
same who built the Labyrinth. The
name Mœris, given to it by the
Greeks, may be derived from an
old Egyptian word méri or mi-uer,
which signified “the great lake.” In
hieroglyphic inscriptions, Lake Mœris
is called She, “the basin or lake,”
She-uer, “the great lake basin,” and
Mi-uer. The records of the rise of
the Nile, put up by this same king at
Semneh, are an additional proof of
the attention he bestowed on hydraulic
engineering.
Another excursion from Medeeneh
may be made to Biggig, about 2 m.
to the S.S.W. of Medeeneh, where
is an obelisk of the time of Osirtasen
I., who erected that of Heliopolis. It
has been thrown down, and broken
in two parts; one about 26 1/2 ft., the
other 16 ft. 3 in. long. One face
and two sides are only visible; and
few hieroglyphics remain on the lower
part. The mean breadth of the face
is 5 ft. 2 in., or 6 ft. 9 1/2 in. at the
lower end, and the sides are about
4 ft. in width. At the upper part of
the face are five compartments, one
over the other; in each of which are
two figures of king Osirtasen offering
to two deities. Below are columns of
hieroglyphics, many of which are quite
illegible. The other face is under
the ground. On each of the two sides
is a single column of hieroglyphics,
containing the name of the king,
who on one is said to be beloved by
Ptah, on the other by Mandoo—evidently
the principal deities of the place.
On the summit of the obelisk a groove
has been cut, doubtless to hold some
ornament, like that of Heliopolis;
though this of Biggig differs from it,
and from other obelisks, in its apex
being round and not pointed; and in
the breadth of its sides, and its faces
being so very dissimilar. The people
of the country look on these fragments
with the same superstitious feeling
as on some stones at the temple of
Panopolis, and other places; and the
women recite the Fatha over them in
the hope of a numerous offspring.
At Biahmoo, about 4 m. to the N.
of Medeeneh, are some curious stone
ruins. Some have supposed them to
be pyramids, and have seen in them
the two mentioned by Herodotus, as
standing in the centre of Lake Mœris.
But their position does not accord with
this idea; and their angle is not that
of a pyramid. Professor Sayce considers
that these buildings may date as far
back as the IIIrd Dynasty. The size
and character of the stones, the mode
in which they are cut, and the want of
cement to join them are similar to the
work at Maydoom.
About 20 m. from Medeeneh, to the
S.W., is El-Ghérek, a town about 700
paces long by 500 broad, protected

against the Arabs by a wall furnished I
with loopholes and projecting towers.
Over the gateway are some old sculpture,
and parts of small columns and
pilasters. It has no ruins, and the
mound near it, called Senooris, seems
only to mark the site of an older Arab
village. And though the stones on
the W. side, from which the village
has received the pompous name of
Medeenet el-Hágar, “the City of the
Stone,” once belonged to ancient ruins,
there is no vestige of building that
has any claim to antiquity. The town
stands at the edge of an isolated spot
of arable land, surrounded by the
desert, and watered by a branch of the
canal that extends to the lands about
Nézleh, and the western extremity of
the Fayoom. It is the land that has
given the name Ghérek, “submerged,”
to the village; doubtless from its
having been exposed to floods, by the
lowness of its level, when accidents
have occurred to the dykes. It has
been erroneously called a lake.
At El-Benián, “the Buildings,” to
the N.E. of El-Ghérek, are an old
doorway, broken shafts, and capitals
of Corinthian columns of Roman time,
built into a sheykh's tomb; and at
Taleét and Sheykh Aboo-Hamed, to
the eastward, are the mounds of two
other towns.

e. TOUR FROM MEDEENEH TO THE BIRKET
EL
- KORN, KASR KHAROON
AND OTHER PARTS OF THE
FAYOOM.

The following would make a good
Tour from Medeeneh. To Nézleh, and
thence to the Kasr Kharoon: from Kasr
Kharoon along the S.E. shore of the
Birket el-Korn to El-Wády, Abouxah
and Senhoor from Senhoor, either
direct by Fademeen to Medeeneh, or
inland to Tomeeah: and thence back
to Medeeneh or El-Edwa. This would
occupy from 5 to 8 days.
The Birket el-Korn is about 15 m.
distant in a straight line from Medeeneh.
If it is the time of the
sugar-cane harvest, advantage can
be taken of the railway which goes
from Medeeneh to Abouxah, which is
a village not far from the lake. At
other periods of the year a train only
runs occasionally. It is generally
very difficult to hire camels or donkeys
in the Fayoom, and it is a good
thing to get an order from the
governor at Medeeneh, addressed to
the village sheykhs, requiring them
to furnish the traveller with what he
may require. None of the ruins which
will presently be described on the
shore of the Birket are particularly
well worth a visit. The best headquarters
for shooting is perhaps the
small village of El-Wády, situate about
midway along the S.E. shore of the
lake, at the mouth of what is called
the Wády river, one of the main
branches of the Bahr Yoosef canal
before alluded to, which here empties
itself into the lake. Plenty of wildfowl
shooting is to be had here in the
winter, and quail are abundant in
February. Hares, too, abound in the
tamarisk-bushes on the shore of the
lake to the east of El-Wády. Boars
and wolves may sometimes be seen,
but the place to find them is on the
opposite or N.W. side of the lake.
There are some large clumsy fishermen's
boats at El-Wády, but any one who
wants to shoot on the lake, and cross
from one side to the other readily, had
better take his own boat with him. El-Wády
is about 5 in. from Abouxah.
Following the route we have indicated,
we first reach Nézleh, on the
banks of the river-like canal called
El-Wády, whose mouth is at the
village of the same name. At Nézleh
the ravine, from bank to bank, measures
673 ft., and 100 ft. in depth
from the top of the bank to the
level of the water in the channel at
the centre, which is 120 ft. broad. In
the ravine itself are the remains of a
wall, partly brick, partly stone, which
is said to have been once used to retain
the water, like that of Tomeeah, where
there is a similar deep broad channel,
and where the large reservoir of water,
kept up by the dyke, has probably
been made in imitation of the old
artificial Lake Mœris. About 1 1/2 m.
below Nézleh are some mounds, called

Wateeyeh, and the tomb of Sheykh Abd
el-Bári.
To the W. of Nézleh are the sites
of 2 ancient towns, called Harábet-el
Yahood
(“the Ruins of the Jews”)
and El-Hammám (“the Baths”).
Neither of them presents any but
crude-brick remains, and the former
has evidently been inhabited by Moslems,
whose mud houses still remain.
Medeenet Hati, Medeenet Madi, and
Hárabet-en Nishán, have extensive
mounds of ancient towns, amidst which
are found fragments of limestone
columns, bricks, pottery, glass, and a
few Roman coins.
The road now leads through the
desert past Kasr el-Benát (“the Palace
of the Girls”), a small crude-brick
ruin, of which the plans of 3 rooms
only can be traced: the whole measuring
30 paces by 10. Near it is the
site of an old town, with much broken
pottery, bricks, and other fragments.
One mile and a half to the S. are the
mounds of Hereét, presenting the remains
of brickwork, but no ruins.
Traces of vineyards and the channels
of old canals are to be seen, together
with much pottery and some tombs,
before reaching Kasr Kharoon, which
stands at the S.W. corner of the lake.
The Birket el-Korn is about 35 m.
long, and a little more than 7 broad
in the widest part, and has received
its name, Birket el-Korn, or Keroon
(“the Lake of the Horn”), from its
form, which is broad at the eastern
end, and curves to a point at its
opposite extremity. Towards the middle
is a barren island, called Gezeeret
el-Korn
. The depth of the lake varies
according to the time of year, but the
average in the deepest part may be
about 30 ft. The surface is considerably
below the level of the Nile. The
water is brackish, and even salt, particularly
in summer, before the inundation
has poured into it a supply of
fresh water. It is partly fed by this,
and partly by springs, which are
probably derived from filtrations from
the Nile over a bed of clay.
Until lately the Birket el-Korn was
considered to be the old Lake Mœris,
but. as has been already shown, modern
science has proved the inaccuracy of
that idea. The first view of the lake
from the upland plain of the Fayoom
is very grand. Dense groves of palm-trees
occupy the foreground in the
neighbourhood of Senhoor and Nézleh:
the plain sloping gradually down to
the lake is richly cultivated; the
immediate shore is dotted with picturesque
groups of tamarisk-bushes:
the lake itself, on a calm day, glitters
like a sea of molten silver; while beyond
it stretches the desert, to the E.
a succession of undulating sand-hills;
to the W. a chain of rocky mountains,
extending to the edge of the horizon.
Mention has already been made of the
numbers of aquatic birds, especially
in winter. The lake also abounds in
fish, mostly of the same kind as those
found in the Nile. As usual in Egypt,
the fisheries are farmed, and yield a
revenue of 2500l. a year to the Egyptian
Government.
Kasr Kharoon.—These are the principal
ruins on the shores of the Birket
el-Korn. They are at the S.W. corner
of the lake, about 15 in. from Nézleh,
and rather more from the village of
El-Wády, to which the road lies over
the desert, and along the shore of the
lake.
The principal building, to which
the name of Kasr Kharoon properly
belongs, is an Egyptian temple, measuring
94 ft. by 63 ft., and 46 ft. in
height, preceded by a court about
35 ft. in depth. It contains 14 chambers
and 2 staircases on the ground-floor,
besides a long passage on either
side of the adytum, whose end wall
is divided into 3 narrow cells. The
whole is of hewn stone, and of a very
good style of masonry. About 380
paces (or 900 ft.) in front of the
temple is a square stone ruin, that
probably formed the entrance of its
dromos; near it is another small building
of similar materials; and 130 paces
to the S.E. is a Roman temple of
brick, stuccoed, about 18 ft. square,
on a stone platform, the outer face of
its walls ornamented with pilasters
and half-columns. In form, size, and
appearance, it resembles 2 buildings
near Rome, one called the temple of

Bediculus, and the other a supposed
tomb, outside the Porta Pia. The
roof is arched, and the door in front
opens upon a small area, part of the
platform upon which it stands; and
the principal difference between this
and the above-mentioned buildings is
that here half-columns are substituted
at the side walls for pilasters. It
has a side-door. Other vestiges of
ruins are scattered over an extent of
about 900 by 400 paces, or about 2200
by 1000 ft.; and at the western extremity
of this space. 350 paces behind
the temple, are the remains of an arch
partly of stone, and partly of crude-brick,
whose northern face looks towards
the lake, and the other towards
a small crude-brick ruin. Near the
arch is a stone resembling a stool, or
an altar, also of Roman time.
It is not alone by the situation of
this town that the former extent of
the cultivated land of the Arsinoïte
nome is attested, but by the traces of
gardens and vineyards which are
met with on all sides of the Kasr
Kharoon, whose roots now supply the
Arabs with fuel when passing the
night there.
Broken pieces of old glass lie thickly
strewn about the desert in the neighbourhood,
and there are many copper
coins. It has been conjectured that
Kasr Kharoon marks the site of Dionysias.
To the N.E., on the shore of Birket
el-Korn, are vestiges of masonry, perhaps
of the port (if it deserves the
name) of this town. To the N., about
12 m. from the lake, is a lofty range
of limestone mountains, and behind
them is the ravine that joins, and
forms part of, the Bahr-el-Fargh, to
the W. of the Natron Lakes.
From Kasr Kharoon, the route we
have sketched out lies over the desert
to the shore of the lake, and along it
to the village of El-Wády, at the
mouth of the canal of that name. This
place makes the best headquarters for
shooting. On leaving El-Wády, we
cross a very marshy district, intersected
with streams, to Abouxah, near which
there is a large sugar manufactory.
From this point Medeeneh can be
easily reached in a day, viâ Sinera, and
along the railway embankment. Continuing
our route, we reach Senhoor, a
large, picturesque village, buried in
a forest of palm-trees, and partly surrounded
by a deep watercourse. It is
about 5 m. from the lake. There are
extensive mounds and some ruins.
On the shore of the lake near Senhoor
are some unimportant ruins
called El-Hammám. Opposite these,
on the N. side of the lake, and about
2 m. from the shore, are the ruins of
Dimáy. Ride to the lake, and take a
boat across. On the way from the
usual place of landing, below Dimáy,
you pass several large blocks resembling
broken columns, but which are natural,
as at Kom Weseém. A raised paved
dromos, leading direct through its
centre to an elevated platform and
sacred enclosure, forms the main
street, about 1290 ft. in length, once
ornamented at the upper end with the
figures of lions, from which the place
has received the name of Dimáy (or
Dimeh) es Saba. This remarkable
street (which recalls the paved approach
to the temple of Bubastis), the lions,
and the remains of stone buildings,
prove the town to have been of far
greater consequence than Kom Weseém.
The principal edifice, which is partly
of stone, stands at the upper end of the
street, and was doubtless a temple: it
measures about 109 ft. by 67 ft., and
is divided into several apartments, the
whole surrounded by an extensive
circuit of crude brick, 370 ft. by 270 ft.
An avenue of lions was before the entrance
of this sacred enclosure (or
temenos), 87 ft. in length, connecting
it with one of those square open platforms,
ornamented with columns, so
often found before the temples of the
Thebaïd; and this avenue formed a
continuation of the main street. The
total dimensions of the area occupied
by the town were about 1730 ft. by
1000, but the extent of its walls is not
easily traced amidst the heaps of sand
that have accumulated over them; and
the whole is in a very dilapidated
state. The site of Bacchis may have
been at Dimáy, or at Kom Weseém,

about 5 m. from the E. end of the
lake, where there are some extensive
mounds.
There is a beautiful view of the
lake from the country round Senhoor.
From Senhoor the traveller may
return direct to Medeeneh by the
charming little village of Fademeen
situated on the banks of the Bahr
et-Tahooneh
(“Mill River”), and
through a most luxuriant and fertile
country.
He may, however, continue his
round to Senooris, a large village occupying
the site of an old town, but
with no ruins, from which Medeeneh
is about 10 in. distant to the S.; and
continuing on in N.W. direction pass
Kafr Mukfoot, in the centre of a most
richly cultivated country, and 8 m.
from Senooris reach Tomeeah, the
last village at the N.E. side of the
Fayoom. It has no ruins, but is interesting
from the remains that exist of
the old system of dykes and reservoirs.
The same system is still carried out
on a smaller scale. There is a deep
ravine, or valley, as at Nézleh, the
lower part of which was dammed by
a buttressed wall of great thickness.
Water-fowl are very numerous in the
neighbourhood of Tomeeah; also hares
and sand-grouse.
From Tomeeah, Medeeneh is about
17 m. distant, and El-Edwa 12 m.;
and a road leads across the desert to
Kafr Ammar, 18 m. on the Upper
Egypt railway.

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385

SECTION VII.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FROM CAIRO TO THEBES.

PAGE
Preliminary Information 385
ROUTE 19. Cairo to Thebes 392

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

a. Mode of Travelling.—b. Voyage by steamer.—c. Voyage in a dahabeeyeh
with a dragoman.
—d. Voyage in a dahabeeyeh without a dragoman.
e. Additional hints.

a. MODES OF TRAVELLING.

The various modes of travel in Egypt have been already referred to (see
p. 5), but as the journey up the Valley of the Nile, of which this Section
forms the first part, has special features of its own, it will be convenient to
give here some detailed information as to how that interesting and delightful
trip, which every one who gets as far as Cairo should endeavour to accomplish,
can be performed.
The River is the highway of Egypt beyond Cairo, and along this highway
the traveller can voyage either in a boat of his own or in a steamer. The
advantages of a steamer are economy of time and money; the disadvantages,
that you are amongst a number of people you never saw before, that you are
obliged to do everything at a fixed time, and that only a certain number of
minutes or hours are allowed at each place of interest. The great advantage
of a boat of your own is that you can stop or go on as you feel inclined—you
are in fact your own master; but the voyage necessarily takes longer, as you
are dependent on the wind, and the expense is proportionately greater. But
the vastly improved accommodation which is to be obtained in the steamers
recently placed upon the Nile by Messrs. Cook and Sons will probably decide,
many, especially those who have not an unlimited supply of time or money,
to make the journey by steamer.
Persons who are very pressed for time and who wish to have some idea of
the Valley of the Nile above Cairo, may take the Railway to its present
farthest point, Asyoot, 230 miles (by rail) from Cairo; but it is a long, dusty
journey of 12 hours with very little of interest on the way. The railway,

however, may be of service to the traveller in a boat, as, if he wishes to save
time, he can send his boat on to any point, and on hearing of its arrival by
telegraph join it the next day by train; and in the same way can leave it
coming down the river, and take the train to Cairo.
There is another mode of seeing the Valley of the Nile, but it is not to be
recommended to any but men in good health, who do not mind roughing it,
and who have some little knowledge of Arabic. It is to take the railway to
Asyoot, and continue the journey thence on Donkeys, stopping each night at
some village and obtaining accommodation in a house. It is a very economical
mode of travelling, and enables you to see a great deal of the habits of
the people, but it can hardly be attempted with success by any one fresh
to the country, and unacquainted with Arabic.

b. VOYAGE BY STEAMER.

The steamers which have recently been placed upon the Nile by Messrs.
Cook and Sons are so far superior to any that have preceded them that the
majority of tourists will in the future prefer travelling by them than to have
their patience tried by the old and well-known sailing dahabeeyeh. The
new first-class steamers recently placed upon the Nile are fitted with every
modern improvement. Each steamer carries a medical man, and special
arrangements are made for the comfort of invalid passengers. There is a
small library on board with a fair collection of books on Egypt.
As the demand for berths in Messrs. Cook's steamers is considerable, it is
advisable to book passages by them before leaving England in order to
prevent disappointment.
The steamers ply as follows:—
1. From Cairo to the First Cataract.
As at present arranged, a first-class steamer leaves Cairo every Tuesday
after the 27th December. The fare to the First Cataract and back is 50l.
The journey takes 21 days from Cairo back to Cairo, and may be lengthened
by stopping at Luxor and continuing the voyage by a subsequent steamer.
The fare includes food, donkeys, guides and all expenses except wine. The
steamer stops as follows on the way up the river:—
Bedreshayn, for Sakkarah 5 hrs.
Minieh 2 hrs.
Beni Hassan 3 hrs.
Asyoot 6 hrs.
Keneh for Denderah 8 hrs.
Luxor for Thebes and Karnak 3 1/2 days.
Esneh 3 hrs.
Edfoo 5 hrs.
Silsilis and Kom Ombo 2 hrs.
Assouan for Philæ, &c. 1 1/2 days.
On the way down the steamer stops as follows:—
Bellianeh, for Abydus 8 hrs.
and at other places as may be necessary for coaling and provisioning
purposes.
2. From the First to the Second Cataract.
This service is performed by a first-class steamer running in connection
with the steamers which ply between Cairo and Assouan. The journey from
Cairo to the Second Cataract and back takes four weeks, and the fare is 70l.
On the way up from the First to the Second Cataract the steamer stops at—
Dabod. Korosko.
Kelabsheh. Derr.
Dendoor Ibreem.
Dakkeh. Wady Halfa.
Sabooah.
On the downward voyage the steamer stops at—
Aboo Simbel. Korosko. Philæ.
Besides the above first-class service, which gives ample time to visit the
most celebrated antiquities, Messrs. Cook have established a cheaper service,
for those whose time and money is more limited. The fares by these steamers
are as follow:—
1. Trip of 14 days from Cairo to Assouan and back, including railway from
Cairo to Asyoot and back, passage and food on steamer, and 4 days' hotel
accommodation at Luxor, 20l.
2. Trip of 11 days from Cairo to Luxor and back, including 4 days' hotel
accommodation at Luxor, 15l.

c. VOYAGE IN A DAHABEEYEH.

This, as has been said, is the most comfortable, but, chiefly owing to the
longer time that it takes, the most expensive way of travelling up the Nile.
It will take, under the most favourable circumstances, 7 weeks to the First
Cataract and back, and 3 weeks more if the voyage is prolonged to the
Second Cataract. For those who propose to travel in this fashion, we
strongly recommend application to be made to Messrs. Cook and Sons, who
should be informed of the number of the party, the time it is proposed to
spend on the Nile, and the approximate amount which it is proposed to
spend; they will then supply an estimate and full details, which can be
thoroughly relied upon.
For those who prefer to trust to their own arrangements, it will be necessary
to engage a dragoman, who will provide everything—boat, crew, cook,
servants, food, donkeys, guides, guards, and all extras, except wines and
spirits—either at so much the day or so much the trip. In either case the
cost will vary according to the size and consequent cost of hire of the boat,
the number of the party and the scale of living and, it may be added, the
value which the dragoman sets upon his own services. Prices vary much
in Egypt, and it is difficult to give exact figures, but the following will
give a fair idea of the sums asked by different dragomen (1) by the day,
(2) by the trip.
(1) By the day, the traveller stopping where he likes and when he likes.
For 2 persons, from 3l. to 4l.; 3 persons, 4l. to 5l.; 4 persons, 4l. 10s. to 6l.
Reckoning the time required to go to the First Cataract and back at 2 months,
and to the Second Cataract and back at 3 months, this would, at a rough
calculation, make the whole expense of the journey to the First Cataract, for
2 persons, from 200l. to 250l.; for 3 persons, from 250l. to 300l.; and for 4
persons, from 300l. to 350l. To the Second Cataract, for 2 persons, 300l. to
350l.; for 3 persons, 350l. to 450l.; for 4 persons, 400l. to 500l. The charge
is lower in proportion as the distance traversed is greater, and the number
of the party larger.
(2) By the trip. According to this arrangement the dragoman engages
to take you to the First or Second Cataract and back for a stipulated sum, so
much time being allowed for stoppage at different places.
For 4 persons to the First Cataract and back, with an allowance of 10 or
15 days' stoppages, from 300l. to 350l. and 400l.; to the Second Cataract and
back, 400l. to 450l. and 500l.
Of course, if a large and luxuriously fitted-up boat is required, and a
generally lavish style of living, all these estimates will be very much increased.
In choosing between a contract by the day and a contract by the trip. the
following considerations should be borne in mind. The advantage of the
contract by trip is that there is no chance of time being unnecessarily wasted
on the road, for it is to the dragoman's advantage, as it is to the captain's and
crew's, who are also hired by the trip, to do the voyage in as short a time as
possible; and instead of 3 months being occupied in getting to the Second
Cataract and back, it may be done in 9 or 10 weeks. The disadvantage is
that you are not master of your own boat, but are often obliged to go on
whether you like it or not, under penalty of being in perpetual collision with
the dragoman as to whether a stoppage, which you may consider necessary, is
to be deducted from the stipulated allowance of stoppages. In the day or
time contract, on the other hand, the dragoman is tempted to delay on every
opportunity, so as to prolong the journey. But this may, to a certain extent,
be not by stipulating that the number of days shall not exceed a certain
limit—say 2 months to the First and 3 to the Second Cataract and back, and
arranging for a lower rate of payment per day for every day beyond the time
agreed on.
In the event of the traveller not having engaged a dragoman before reaching
Egypt, it will be well for him on arriving at Cairo (not at Alexandria)
to obtain estimates from 3 or 4 of those who present themselves with good
recommendations, and at the same time to visit a number of the Dahabeeyehs
at Boolak (see p. 159), and after selecting one or more that suit him, ask
the dragoman whom he may think of engaging what his charge per day
would be with such or such a boat. The traveller should also carefully
examine the boat him-elf, and make inquiry as to the captain (reiyis), as his
safety and comfort will very much depend on having a good and experienced
captain who can select a good crew, and keep them in strict discipline and
good humour.
The traveller can have a regular form of contract drawn up for him at
the Consulate, in which he can embody any particular points he wishes. The
charge for preparing this contract and witnessing the signatures is 1l. Or
he can draw up his own contract, and merely pay 5s. for having the signatures
witnessed.
It only remains to be said, that for those who wish thoroughly to enjoy
the Nile voyage without trouble and bother of any kind, a good dragoman
and a comfortable boat are essential; and for an invalid they are indispensable.
We might add that they are not always easy to find.
For information as to the wages of a dragoman, and those of other servants,
and for prices ad description of boats, see pp. 157, 159.

d. VOYAGE IN A DAHABEEYEH WITHOUT A DRAGOMAN.

For those who do not speak Arabic, and do not know the ways and customs
of the country, this mode of making the journey is not to be recommended.
Indeed, they will find the task a difficult and disagreeable one, unless indeed,
housekeping under difficulties is their occupation par préférence. The
system may be adopted by those who merely wish to spend so much time
upon the Nile—four or five months—for the sake of the climate, the shooting,
&c.; but it will not do for those who wish to go to a certain point and back
within a given time, and see and do all they can within that period. In
catering for yourself, everything, supposing you do not speak Arabic, will
depend more or less on the intelligence and honesty of the man whom you
may have engaged as interpreter and head-servant. The contract for the
boat may be drawn up and signed at the Consulate. It should be distinctly

specified whether the boat is able to go up the Cataract, if required, and
whether the expenses of going up are to be paid by the owner or hirer. All
the dahabeeyehs for hire by travellers have their cabins furnished, but a
thorough inspection should be made, and any necessary articles that are
wanting obtained from the owner before the contract is signed. Many
dahabeeyehs have also a complete canteen, with linen, &c., so that it is not
necessary to hire one separately: and some have a cooking canteen.
The following List of Provisions will, it is thought, be found to comprise
all that is most essentially necessary in stocking a boat for a voyage on
the Nile: but there are many other items which people will add according to
their individual tastes, by which, as well as by the time intended to be spent,
the quantity taken of each item must also be regulated. Everything may
be bought in Alexandria or Cairo, fairly good in quality and reasonable in
price.

LIST OF PROVISIONS.

  • Arrowroot.
  • Bacon (in tins).
  • Biscuits.
  • Butter.
  • Candles, paraffin.
  • Ditto, for lanterns.
  • *Charcoal.
  • Cheese.
  • *Coffee.
  • Curry powder.
  • Dates, dried.
  • Figs.
  • Flour.
  • Hams.
  • Jams.
  • Limes, or lime-juice.
  • *Lemons.
  • Liebeg's Extractum Carnis.
  • *Maccaroni.
  • Marmalade.
  • Matches.
  • Mishmish (dried apricots).
  • Mustard.
  • Night lights.
  • Oil, salad.
  • Ditto, lamp.
  • *Oranges.
  • Pepper, white and red.
  • Peas, split.
  • Preserved vegetables.
  • Pearl barley.
  • Pickles.
  • Potatoes.
  • *Rice.
  • Salt.
  • Sardines.
  • Sauces.
  • Soap.
  • Ditto, washing.
  • Starch.
  • Sugar, white.
  • Ditto, brown.
  • Tea.
  • Tongues.
  • *Vermicelli.
  • Vinegar.
The articles marked with an asterisk can be bought best in the bazaars, and
not at a provision merchant's, and the stock of them can be renewed at any
of the large towns on the Nile. Many things might be added to the above
list, such as chocolate, olives, almonds, raisins, dried fruits, &c. Preserved
meats and soups may be taken, but are not necessities, as mutton, chickens,
pigeons, and turkeys can always be bought, beef seldom or never after leaving
Cairo. Fresh vegetables are rarely procurable: the one exception is the
onion, which is to be found everywhere, and is the best in the world. A
small broad bean, a kind of lettuce, and small cucumbers may generally be
bought in the villages on market days; and wild cress is often to be found
near the river banks in the early spring. Eggs are generally plentiful, and
milk, principally buffalo's, may always be bought in the early morning at any
village. Fresh butter can be procured sometimes, and would be good if it
were properly made and not so dirty. Kishteh, a sort of Devonshire cream,
is an excellent thing, and can be made by any cook. A certain quantity of
fresh meat, and some pigeons, chickens, and turkeys should be laid in at

Cairo. Meat is sold by the oke (about 2 3/4 lbs.), or the rotl (rather more than
1 lb.). Nearly all these things are cheaper in Upper Egypt, and it is a good
thing to fill the coops with turkeys, chickens, and pigeons at some place
where they are cheap. This should certainly be done before entering Nubia,
as everything there is scarce and dear.

e. ADDITIONAL HINTS.

All information with regard to wine, medicines, clothes, shooting, and
other matters which equally concern those who go with, and those who go
without, a dragoman, will be found in the Introduction, e, or Sect. I., General
Information
, § 8, e, f, and § 12. A few useful hints, however, may still be
added.
The Boat and things needed on it.— Do not be too much taken with a boat
because it has some modern appliances, such as, for instance, water turned
on, taps, basins, and plugs, &c. First of all this means that there is a
cistern on deck into which the water has to be pumped, an operation which
it will be found extremely difficult to get done regularly; and then the
cistern when full adds considerably to the top hamper of the boat. Moreover,
the pipes which lead from the cistern to the baths and basins are
generally so small that the flow of water is provokingly slow. The fixed
basins too are never properly cleaned out, and the chain and plug always
hold soapsuds, &c. Remember that the river is convenient and buckets handy
and cheap.
Some particular people may object to the poultry which has to be taken
being kept on the deck, and in this case they should stipulate for a second
small boat in which to place the coops.
Those who wish to be certain of always having fresh milk will do well to
take a goat with them, which can be kept in this second boat.
However free the boat may be from rats at starting, it is very probable
that some may come on board from the country boats near which the dahabeeyeh
is moored during the voyage, therefore it is a good thing to take one
or two iron rat-traps.
Many boats are provided with mosquito-curtains; but unless there is any
inducing reason, such as bilge-water, to cause the presence of mosquitos, no
annoyance ought to be experienced from them after leaving Cairo.
Neither bugs nor fleas should be found on any properly clean boat, but it
is as well to have some Persian flea-powder, which is the best remedy for
these unwelcome visitants.
Flies are a great plague on the Nile, and the most effectual snare for them
is what is know as “fly-paper,” which can be procured at Cairo; fly-flaps
are also very useful.
If the traveller be a smoker, he will know how to supply his own wants
in that line; but even though he himself should not smoke, he ought to take
with him a few boxes of cigarettes, and Gebelee tobacco for pipes, together
with one or two chibooks, so as to be able to offer a smoke to any native
visitors. Some common tobacco also may be taken for occasional distribution
among the crew.
Coffee should always be handed round on the occasion of any visit, and it
is well to have a few bottles of sirop for making the so-called sherbet.
It is customary to fly the national ensign of the passengers at the stern of
the dahabeeyeh, and a special distinguishing pennant at the yard-end; the
former can be bought at Cairo, and the latter made, but it is better to bring
them from England.
The Dragoman.—Insist upon your dragoman always helping to wait at
table; and never allow him to give himself the air of being master of the

boat, the crew, the servants, and yourself; but keep him strictly in his place,
as a servant hired to carry out your wishes, and not as a great personage,
condescendingly showing you up and down the Nile, and hardly allowing
you to choose where you will go or what you will do.
The Crew.—Strict discipline should be maintained with the crew, and invariable
obedience to orders, whatever they may be, with the full understanding
of course that they are reasonable and just. But the stick need
never be resorted to: firmness and the determination of being obeyed seldom
fail to command respect and obedience; for, when they know you will be
obeyed, they will seldom disregard an order. When once that obedience is
established, then you may be as indulgent as you like; and every good office,
every reward, will be received as a favour. Without it, kindness will be
construed into fear or ignorance; every attempt will be made to deceive the
too easy traveller; and in order to have a moment's peace, he will be obliged
to have recourse to the very means he had been hoping to avoid; by applying
to some governor, or by substituting too late severity, either of which
will only draw upon him hatred and contempt. One thing is, however much
they may try to impose on one whom they think to get the upper hand of,
they never harbour any feelings of revenge. They are like the frogs in the
fable with the log of wood. In short, be strict and just, without unnecessary
violence, in order to have the satisfaction of being indulgent. When properly
managed, no people are so willing or good-natured as the Nile boatmen;
when not understood, none so troublesome. When going ashore to shoot or
visit any ruins, it is customary to be accompanied by one of the crew, for the
purpose of carrying anything that may be required. A few piastres to buy
tobacco may occasionally be given in return for this service. Some travellers,
especially if there are ladies, will find it more agreeable not to allow the
crew to come across the quarter-deck during the daytime. They can easily
go along the side from end to end of the boat.
The traveller will probably be asked before leaving Cairo for money to buy
the crew a tambourine and a tarabooka, a sort of drum, these being the
musical instruments with which the sailors accompany their songs. There is
no necessity for acceding to this request, and some may not care to encourage
the men in singing; but few would probably be disposed to put a stop to
what is one of the chief delights of a Nile boatman, and is itself in moderation
not unpleasing to the ear.
Sailing.—One very necessary precaution in sailing is to order the captain
to forbid the boatmen to tie the sails, and to insist upon their holding the
rope called shoghóol in their hands, which is termed keeping it khálus,
“free;” for to the neglect of this precaution almost all the accidents that
happen on the Nile are to be attributed. In those parts where the mountains
approach the river it should be particularly attended to, as at Gebel Sheykh
Umbárak, Gebel et-Tayr, and thence to Sheykh Timáy, Gebel Aboo Faydah,
Gebel Sheykh Heréedee, and Gebel Tookh below Girgeh. In a high wind,
and when strong gusts may be expected, it is better to run no risk, and not
to attempt to pass such mountains till the wind has abated.
Care should also be taken to have the proper quantity of ballast on board,
which is often curtailed in order to make the boat lighter for towing.
Backsheesh.—It has been truly said that “no estimate of the expense of
life in Egypt would be at all complete without a due reference to backsheesh
… Backsheesh is the first word that meets the ear on landing in the
country; it is the last that salutes it on leaving … It is a bore from which
there is no escape … But backsheesh is not a mere bore, for it is the motive
power of Egypt. The mechanist, who with a lever would move the earth,
could with backsheesh turn Egypt upside down, or put a girdle round her
deserts with the Nile … It makes your stay in Egypt agreeable, and soothes

every difficulty, social, political, or official … But this potent djin must be
used with discretion, or it will turn and rend you. Give when it is customary
to give, and on the scale that is sanctioned by long use, and you will be
respected and liked. Give too often, inopportunely, or in excess, and it were
better for you not to give at all … Common sense will here as ever point out
that middle path so safe to travel in, so easy to stray from; and by the
observance of two simple rules backsheesh may be made an useful servant.
Never give except where an extra service justifies, or custom prescribes the
gift.”—F. Eden.
Backsheesh to the crew is now specially mentioned in the contract as
devolving on the dragoman; and the man have no right to expect a piastre
from the traveller. He may, however, at such places as Thebes and Assooán
give them a small sum, say 10 francs between them, especially if they have
behaved well, and have had a good deal of towing. At the end of the voyage
it is customary to give a present to the captain, the steersman, and the crew.
This should be done in the following proportion: three times as much to the
captain, twice as much to the steersman, and half as much to the cook-boy as
to each man. A fair present at the end of an ordinary voyage to the First
Cataract and back would be 1l. to the captain, 12s. to the steersman, 6s. to
each man, and 3s. to the cook-boy. The money for the captain, steersman,
and cook-boy should be given to them separately, and that for the men to the
member chosen by them to receive it. Of course if the traveller has reason
to be dissatisfied with his crew, he will give nothing at all. In the same way
circumstances may make him wish to give more than the sums above
mentioned, either to the whole number, or to some one in particular. The
cook and other servants have no right to expect any backsheesh, but it is
sometimes given. When the traveller hires his own boat, it is customary for
him to give a small sum, say 4s. between them, to the men at the principal
towns, such as Minieh, Asyoot, Keneh, Thebes, Esneh, Assooán, and Wády
Halfa, if they have had much towing and have worked well.
In conclusion, we would recommend all travellers who go up the Nile in a
dahabeeyeh, under their own management, to take a large stock of patience
with them, and not to allow themselves to be over much troubled by the
small difficulties which they will certainly meet with, and which, though
annoying at the time, will probably afford amusement when relating them
to their friends on their return to England.

ROUTE 19.
CAIRO TO THEBES BY THE NILE.
(450 m.)

The journey from Cairo up the Nile
may be made as far as Asyoot either
by the river or by railway. The
latter is quicker, but does not give
time to inspect anything en route.
The station from which the traveller
by rail starts is Boolak Dakroor on
the west bank of the Nile. The distance
is 229 miles. The train leaves
Cairo at 8.30 A.M. arriving at Asyoot
at 6.30 P.M. It is unnecessary to
describe this railway particularly, as
every place of importance is passed by
those who take the river route. We
shall mention those where there are
railway stations.
The following list of the principal
places on the way by river from Cairo
to Thebes, with their approximative
distances from one another, may be
useful for reference. The banks of
the Nile are always referred to as the
East bank (E.) and the West bank
(W.).
Miles.
Cairo (Boolak), to Bedreshayu
(for Sakkárah)
15
Zowyeh 40
Miles.
Benisooáf 18
Feshun 19
Maghágha 14
Aboo Girgeh 15 1/2
Klossana 12 1/2
Minieh 22 1/2
156 1/2
Benihassan 14 1/2
Rhoda 11
Mellawee 6
Hadji Kandeel (for Tel-el-Amarna) 7
Gebel Aboo Faydah 17
Manfaloot 11 1/2
Asyoot 26
93
Abooteeg 15
Gow el-Kebeer 14 1/2
Tahtah 12 1/2
Soohág 26
Mensheeyeh 11
Girgeh 13
Bellianeh (for Abydos) 8
Farshoot 18 1/2
How and Kasr es-Syad) 8
Keneh (for Denderah) 29 1/2
Negádeh 22 1/2
Luxor (Thebes) 22
200 1/2
450
The start from Cairo is made from
above the iron bridge at Kasr el-Neel.
Leaving on the W. Gezeereh, and
on the E. Kasr en-Neel, Kasr el-Ainee
and the Island of Roda , we pass between
Geezeh on the W., and Old Cairo
on the E., into a broad reach of the
Nile, from which we can see across
the whole width of the valley from
Gebel Mokattam on the E. to the
Libyan hills on the W. About 1 1/2 in.
beyond Old Cairo and the mounds
which mark the site of the still older
Babylon is (E.) the picturesque
Mosque of Attar en-Nebbee, situated
on a projecting point of the bank, at
the end of an avenue of fine trees.
Its name is derived from an impression
of “the prophet's footstep,” said to
be preserved there. Some, however,
derive Attar from Athor, the Egyptian
Venus.
On the low range of hills above
Attar en-Nebbee is a fort, now used as
a powder magazine.
A long reach of the Nile extends
from Attar en-Nebbee to the village of
ed-Dayr, “the convent,” inhabited by
Copt Christians; and inland is the
village of Bussateen (see p. 275).
On the W. the majestic pyramids
seem to watch the departure of the
traveller when he quits the capital, as
they welcomed his approach from the
Delta; and those of Abooseer, Sakkárah,
and Dashóor, in succession, present
themselves to his view, and mark
the progress of his journey.
(E.) Before reaching Toora are
some low mounds of earth, probably
ancient walls of decayed crude bricks,
belonging to an enclosure, once square,
but now partly carried away by the
river; and to the E. of it is another
long mound, through which a passage
led to the plain behind.
(E.) El-Masárah. In the mountains
behind are the famous quarries of
Toora and Masárah (see ENVIRONS OF
CAIRO, EXC. IX.).
(E.) Helwán, a village known as
having been the first place where the
Arabs made a Nilometer, under the
Khalifate of Abd el-Melek, about the
year 700 A.D. It was built by Abd el-Azeez,
the brother of the Khalif; but
being found not to answer there, a
new one was made by El-Weleed,
his successor, about 10 years afterwards,
at the Isle of Roda, where it
has continued ever since. Part of the
pillar of this Helwán Nilometer was
found near the village. Aboolfeda
speaks of Helwán as a very delightful
village, and it was perhaps from this
that it obtained its name, helwa signifying
“sweet;” though it possesses
nothing particular to recommend it
on this score. The Baths of Helwón
are 2 miles inland (see ENVIRONS OF
CAIRO, EXC, IX.).
(W.) Bedreshayn, 15 m. (Railway
Stat.), is nearly opposite Helwán. The
village is a little way from the bank;
and a short distance farther inland
may be seen the mounds of Mitrahenny,
marking the site of Memphis ,
with the pyramids of Abooseer, Sakkàrah,

and Dashòor, in the distance.
This is the best point on the river
from which to make the excursion to
Sakkàrah (see ENVIRONS OF CAIRO,
Exc. VIII.). About 4 m. farther up
the stream you pass (W.) Shobuk, with
the pyramids of Dashòor, 4 m. inland;
and Masghòon, 2 m. to the westward of
which is El Kafr , a small village, from
which one of the principal roads leads
to the Fayoom across the desert. The
scenery here on the W. bank is very
lovely in the winter; glades of young
bright-green corn run up into groves of
beautiful palms, with here and there a
splendid sycamore-fig filling up the
open spaces in the landscape. The
sandbanks in this part of the river,
beginning indeed from a little way S.
of Cairo, will be found covered with
wild-fowl and large flocks of pelicans
in the early winter.
(W.) In this neighbourhood, probably
near Dashòor, were “the city of
Acanthus, the temple of Osiris, and
the grove of Thebaic gum-producing
Acanthus,” mentioned by Strabo;
which last may be traced in the many
groves of that tree (the sont, or Acacia
Nilotica
) which still grow there at the
edge of the cultivated land. The
town of Acanthus was, according to
Diodorus, 120 stadia, or 15,000 paces,
from Memphis, equal to nearly 14
Eng. m., which, if correct, would
place it much farther S., to the westward
of Kafr el-Aiât though it is
generally supposed to have stood near
Dashòor.
(W.) Near Kàfr el-Aiàt, at the extremity
of a large bend of the river, is
the supposed site of Menes' Dyke (see
p. 264).
(W.) At Tàhaneh, about 1 1/4 m. from
Kafr el-Aiàt, and near the edge of the
desert, are mounds, but no remains
except small fragments of stone; and
the same at Babayt, about 1 m. N.N.W.
from Kafr el-Aiàt.
Already, before reaching Kafr el-Aiàt,
are descried the two ruined
pyramids of Lisht, built of small blocks
of limestone, which were probably once
covered with an exterior coating of
larger stones.
(W.) 3m. to the N.W. is a conical
hill resembling a pyramid. It is, however,
merely a rock, with no traces of
masonry. In these parts of the low
Libyan chain are a great abundance
of fossils, particularly oyster-shells,
with which some of the rocks are
densely filled, in some instances retaining
their glossy mother-of-pearl
surface. Many trunks of petrified
trees similar to those noticed above
(ENVIRONS OF CAIRO, Exc. III.), have
been found in the same range.
(E.) Wàdy Ghomei opens upon the
Nile at Es-Suf. By this valley runs
the southernmost of the roads across
the desert to Suez.
(W.) About 4m. inland from Rigga
is the Pyramid of Maydoom, near the
village of that name. It is called by
the Arabs Haram el-Kedàb, or “the
False Pyramid,” from the idea that the
nucleus is of rock built round so as to
give the shape of a pyramid. It is
well worth a visit, as being probably
the oldest monument in Egypt, there
being reasons for assigning it to
Seneferoo, the last king of the IIIrd
Dynasty. Rigga is the nearest point
to it on the river, but donkeys are
more easily procured at Wasta higher
up the river, whence, however, the
ride will take 3 hrs. The country
passed through is very rich and fertile.
We first reach the Village of Maydoom
on a high mound, and occupying the
site of the ancient city of Mei-tum,
“beloved of Tum,” the name of which
occurs on monuments of the IIIrd
Dynasty.
When the town is passed the pyramid
is in full view, and from its
standing alone and on the highest
ground within several miles, it has a
very imposing appearance. When we
consider that it may be several centuries
older than the Great Pyramid
of Gezeeh, it has a wonderfully fresh
and new look. The stone is of a
peculiarly rich orange colour. It has
now the appearance of a square tower
in three stages, rising from an artificial
mound like the keep of a Norman
castle. Mariette Pasha observes that
this pyramid should be compared with
that of King Oonas, known as the

Mastabat el-Pharaoon, adding that the
tombs of the ancient empire consisted
of a square base with or without a
pyramid super-imposed. This is an
example which is neither a mastabah
nor a pyramid. Lepsius supposes
that the angles were filled up and
that the sides sloped from the ground
as in other pyramids.
The mound is about 120 ft. from the
surrounding plain. The first stage
above the mound is 70 ft., the second
20 ft., and the third, which was originally
about 30 ft., is now reduced to
about 25 ft. The total height from
the foot of the mound is therefore
about 230 ft., but it is impossible to
say with accuracy where the masonry
actually begins. The entrance is on
the north side about 53 ft. above the
level of the sand. The passage
descends at an angle for about 234 ft.
then is level for 40 ft. From the end
of it a shaft leads vertically upwards
into the tomb, which is empty. M.
Maspero considers that it was broken
into, and the sarcophagus removed in
very ancient times.
A smaller mound near the pyramid
probably conceals a tomb, but it has
not been opened. A hundred paces to
the N. is another similar mound, which
has been found to be wholly artificial,
consisting mainly of crude brick, of
which the E. face was plastered and
whitewashed. A stone mastabah, now
much dilapidated, stood in front of the
entrance to the tomb. On it is some
very fine sculpture commemorating
Nefermat, a member of the household
of Seneferoo. Some of the pictures
are in the low relief characteristic of
the sculpture of the ancient empire,
but others are made by incising the
whole figure and filling it with a
coloured composition of great hardness.
The style, one of the earliest
practised, was revived under Rameses
II., and occurs in a modified form at
Tel el-Yahoodeh. Nefermat's hawks
with their numbers are over the doorway.
At the sides are representatives
from his estates bearing offerings, and
each marked with the name of a village
or town. Among them is the
name of Maydoom. Nefermat himself
is represented in several places,
and his wife, Atet, is seen on the wall
to the right. On the left door-post
are his three sons, the eldest a full
grown man, the youngest a child.
About 50 ft. N. in the same mound
is the tomb of Atet, the widow of
Nefermat. She is represented to the
right above the door in a most interesting
scene. A man is snaring
wild-fowl in a net, which 3 others
present to the lady. Observe how the
net is arranged over the door so as to
form an ornament. Other scenes,
hunting and agriculture, occur within
and at the sides, and the lady Atet is
shown clasping the knees of her husband
on the left. Here was found the
marvellous fresco of the geese, now
in the Boolak Museum, of which M.
Mariette says that in it, the earliest
picture of the kind in the world, “we
see largeness of style allied with complete
finish.”
Another mound of a similar character
adjoins on the N. In it are
also 2 tombs. The first is that of
Khert, and Mara, his wife. The
mastabah is of limestone, covered with
sculptures, among which occur the
hieroglyphs of the name of Seneferoo.
A few paces farther is the ruined
tomb of Ra-hotep, a son of Seneferoo,
and Nefert, his wife. Of it the remains
are very scanty, consisting for
the most part of a heap of limestone
blocks; but in the tomb were found,
in 1872, the marvellous statues, now
in the Boolak Museum. At no subsequent
period did Egyptian art produce
works more lifelife or “speaking,”
yet these are the oldest sculptures
in the world to which anything
like a date can be assigned.
Students of hieroglyphics will find
the inscriptions at Maydoom of great
interest. They present the oldest
existing examples of the art of writing,
and are remarkable not only for the
simplicity of the grammatical forms,
but for the beauty and clearness of
the letters.
In the canal, the Bahr Yoosef,
which passes close by, great numbers
of wildfowl will often be found in the
late winter and early spring. At Suff,

about 1 m. N., are the mounds of an
ancient town.
(E.) At Atfeeyeh are the mounds of
Aphroditopolis , or the city of Athor,
the Egyptian Venus. It presents no
monuments; but a stone with the
name of Rameses II. has been found
in a ruined mosque. It may be well
to remind those who are particularly
interested
in the discovery of monuments,
that an occasional visit to the
sites of old cities, even when reputed
to have no remains, may be repaid by
some monument accidentally laid open
by the peasants while removing the
nitre for their lands. The Coptic
name of Aphroditopolis is Tpêh, or
Petphieh, easily converted into the
modern Arabic Atfeeyeh. It was the
capital of the Aphroditopolite nome,
and noted, as Strabo tells us, for the
worship of a white cow, the emblem
of the goddess.
(E.) Opposite Zówyeh, at the N.
corner of the low hills overlooking the
Nile, is Boronbel, where mounds mark
the site of an old town, probably Ancyronpolis.
That city is supposed to
have owed its name to the stone
anchors said to have been cut in the
neighbouring quarries.
(W.) Zówyeh, 40 m., appears to be
Iseum, in the Coptic Naési, the city of
Isis, which stood near the canal leading
to Pousiri, or Nilopolis, and thence
to the Crocodilopolite nome. This
canal on the N., with part of the predecessor
of the Bahr Yoosef on the W.,
and the Nile on the E., formed the
island of the Heracleopolite nome;
and the city of Hercules was, according
to Strabo, towards the southern
extremity of the province, of which it
was the capital. And this agrees with
the position of Ehnásieh, or Um el-Keemán,
“the Mother of the Mounds, as
it is often called by the Arabs, from
the lofty mounds of the old city, which
are seen inland about 12 m. to the
westward of Benisooéf.
(E.) Wasta (Railway Stat.), close
to Zówyeh. [Railway to the Fayoom
(see Rte. 18) two trains a day each
way in 1 1/4 hr. to Medeenet el-Fayoom
23 m. One train leaves Wasta at
10.50 A.M. and the second at 5.50 P.M.
The trains leave Medeeneh for Wasta
at 8.0 A.M. and 2.40 P.M.]
Maydoom may be conveniently
visited from this station.
(W.) Inland, about 9 m. to the
S.W. of Zówyeh is Abooseer, the site
of Busiris or Nilopolis, in Coptic
Pousiri, upon the canal already mentioned,
bounding the Heracleopolite
nome to the W. The position of the
city of the Nile, at a distance from
the river, was evidently chosen in
order to oblige the people to keep the
canal in proper repair, that the water
of the sacred stream might pass freely
into the interior, and reach the town,
where the god Nilus was the object
of particular veneration; a motive
which has been assigned to the worship
of the crocodile in towns situated
far from the river.
(W.) Zaytoon has succeeded to an
ancient town called in the Coptic
Phannigôit. It was in the district of
Poushin, the modern Boosh, which is
distant about 3 m. to the S., and is
marked by lofty mounds. It is remarkable
that Zaytoon, signifying
“olives,” is an Arabic translation of
the old name Pha-ñ-ni-gôit, “the Place
of Olives,” probably given it to show
a quality of the land which differed
from the rest of the Heracleopolite
nome.
(W.) Dallas, about a mile to the
S.W. of Zaytoon, appears to be the
Tgol (or Tlog) of the Copts; and at
Shenoweeyeh, close to Boosh, are
mounds of an ancient town whose
name is unknown.
(E.) El-Marazee, a picturesque village
shortly before reaching Boosh.
Two miles from it is a Coptic
convent.
(W.) Boosh (Ry. Stat.) is a large village
with about 6000 inhabitants, half
of whom are Copts; and it has a large
depot of monks, which keeps up a
constant communication with the convents
of St. Antony and St. Paul, in
the eastern desert, supplying them
with all they require, furnishing them
occasionally with fresh monastic recruits,
and superintending the regulations
of the whole corps of ascetics.
(W.) Benisooéf, 18 m. (Rly. Stat.),
3 hrs. by train from Cairo, and 3 1/2
from Minieh), a large and important
town, 73 m. from Cairo. It is the
capital of the province of the same
name, and the residence of the Mudeer
or governor. Population 10,000.
There is a Telegraph and Post Office,
to which letters may be addressed.
The bazaar is tolerably well supplied,
and there is a weekly market. The
chief industry is the manufacture of
woollen carpets and coarse linen stuffs
for the fellaheen. In the time of Leo
Africanus it was famous for its linen
fabrics, and supplied the whole of
Egypt with flax, and exported great
quantities to Tunis and other parts of
Barbary. This industry was revived
by Mohammed Ali, who built a manufactory
here in 1826. The view of
Benisooéf from the river is rather
pretty; the banks being well covered
with trees and presenting an animating
appearance.
Here may be watched the ordinary
scenes common to all the large towns
on the Nile; among which are numerous
boats tied to the shore—buffaloes
standing or lying in the water—women
at their usual morning and evening
occupation of filling water-jars and
washing clothes—dogs lying in holes
they have scratched in the cool earth—
and beggars importuning each newly-arrived
European stranger with the
odious word “backsheesh.”
Though the idle occupation of lying
in the water gives no very exalted
notion of the utility of the buffalo, it
is justly prized for many very useful
qualities. Being hardier and stronger
than the ox, it is employed in its place
for many agricultural purposes: its
milk, too, is excellent, and makes very
good butter, and the best kishteh, a sort
of Devonshire cream, which may be
made very well on a Nile boat.
From Benisooéf is one of the principal
routes to the Fayoom (see
Rte. 18); and the brick pyramid of
Tllahoón, at its N.E. entrance, may be
seen from the town.
(E.) The village of Dayr Byád, in
an island opposite Benisooéf, so called
from a neighbouring convent, is inhabited
by people originally of the
tribe of Beni-Wásel Arabs. From it
starts the road leading to the monasteries
of St. Antony and St. Paul,
situated in the desert near the Red
Sea. (See Rte. 11.)
Some small mounds, called Tel en-Nassára
and Tel et-Teen, inland on
the S. of the island, mark the site of
ancient villages; and on the opposite
bank are many mounds of larger
towns, whose ancient names are unknown.
(W.) Isment, between 2 and 3 m.
S. of Benisooéf, on the river-side, has
mounds, but no vestiges of ruins, nor,
indeed, any relic of antiquity, except
the margin of a well. It is called
Isment el-Bahr (“of the River”), to
distinguish it from Isment (miscalled
Sidment) el-Gebel (“of the Mountain”),
which stands at the foot of the
hills separating the Fayoom from the
valley of the Nile. This name cannot
fail to call to mind Ismendes, and may,
perhaps, be the Shbent of the Coptic
Fst of towns in this district.
(W.) Ehnasieh or Um el-Keemán,
“the Mother of the Mounds,” lies 9
m. inland from Isment. It marks the
site of the ancient city of Hercules,
Heracleopolis. The Coptic name of
that town Ehnes or Hnes, is readily
traced in the modern Ehnasieh, as its
position by the lofty mounds on which
it stands. That this is the site of
Heracleopolis there is no question,
though the Arabic and Coptic names
bear no resemblance to that of the
deity, Sem or Gom, the Egyptian
Hercules. This was at one time one
of the most important cities of Egypt,
and was probably the capital of the
Kings of the IX and Xth Dynasties.
The histories of these kings is wholly
lost, but there are rich discoveries to
be made by those who will do for
Ehnasieh what Mr. Petrie has done for
Tanis and Naucratis, and Mr. Naville
for Pithom. It was here that the ichneumon,
the enemy of the crocodile,
was particularly worshipped; and the
respect paid to that animal by the
Heracleopolites, the immediate neighbours
of the Arsinoïte or Crocodilopolite
nome, led, in late times, during

the rule of the Romans, to serious
disputes, which terminated in bloodshed,
and made the contending parties
forget the respect due to the sacred
monuments of their adversaries. And
judging from what Pliny says respecting
the injuries done to the famous
Labyrinth, there is more reason to
attribute the destruction of that building
to the superstitious prejudices of
the Heracleopolites than to the
ordinary ravages of time.
(W.) At Tanseh, Brangeh, Bibbeh,
Sits, and other places, are the mounds
of old towns, with whose names we
are unacquainted. Pococke supposes
Brangeh (or, as he calls it, Berangieh)
to be Cynopolis , but the position of that town was farther to
the S.
(W.) Bibbeh (Rly. Stat.), a rising
village which has succeeded to an
ancient town, is noted for a Copt
convent, and for an imaginary Moslem
santon, thence called El Bibbáwee.
This holy individual is the offspring
of a clever artifice of the Christians;
who, to secure their church from
outrage during the disturbances that
formerly took place in Egypt, gave
out that a Moslem sheykh presided
over and dwelt in its precincts; and
the priests to this day, as they show
the picture of St. George, tell them a
heterodox story of his exploits, and
his wars against the infidels. The
name of infidel is indefinite; it may
satisfy the Moslem or the Christian,
according to his peculiar application
of the word; and the “pious fraud” is
at all events as true as the scene represented
by the picture. So well indeed
has it succeeded, that visits are frequently
paid by the passing Moslem
to the sanctuary of this revered personage;
he reads the Fatha before
the likeness of a man (though so
strictly forbidden by his religion),
and that too within the walls of a
Christian church; and he gladly
contributes a few paras for the lamps
burnt before it, with the full persuasion
that his voyage will be prosperous,
through the good offices of
the saint. But while the priest who
receives the boon tells the plausible
tale of the power of the “sheykh,” the
indifferent spectator, who recognises
the usual representation of St. George
and the Dragon, may smile at the
credulity and the ignorance of the
donor. The conversion of St. George
into a Moslem saint may appear
strange to an Englishman; but it is
found to be far less difficult to deceive
an Egyptian by this clumsy imposition,
than to persuade a Copt Christian
that his guardian saint, with the
same white horse, green dragon, and
other accessories, holds a similar tutelary
post in England. The most
credulous, as well as the most reasonable
Copt, immediately rejects this
statement as a glaring impossibility;
and the question, “What can our St.
George have to do with England?”
might perplex the most plausible, or
the most pious, of the Crusaders.
Strange to say, M. Clermont Ganneau
connects the veneration of St.
George in Egypt with the ancient
worship of Horus. A small statue in
the Louvre, sculptured in Egypt in
the late Roman period, represents the
god in armour on horseback killing
the dragon, in such a way that had
the head been wanting there would
have been nothing to distinguish the
figure from one of the saints. It would
probably be difficult to persuade the
modern Egyptian that in anything
he is continuing the worship of his
forefathers, thousands of years before
Christianity or the Arab invasion.
(E.) Nearly opposite Bibbeh is
Sheykh Aboo Noor, the site of an ancient
village; and beyond Bibbeh the
positions of some old towns are marked
by the mounds of Sits, Miniet el-Geer,
and Feshun.
(W.) Feshun, 19 m. (Rly. Stat.)
The country near the river-bank is
very well cultivated, and there are
several nicely-kept gardens with pomegranate
trees, palms, tobacco, and
a variety of shrubs and vegetables.
(E.) A little higher up the river
(E.), behind the island that lies halfway
between Feshun and el-Fent, is
el-Háybee, or Medeenet el-Gahil, where
some remains mark the site of a
small town of considerable antiquity,

whose name as found in the hieroglyphics
was Isembheb. They consist
of crude-brick walls and remains of
houses. On the N. side is a large mass
of building of some height, founded on
the rock. It is the strongest part of
the defences of this fortified place,
and one end runs out upon the rocks
to the N.W., following the irregular
direction of the river. It is built of
smaller brick, and between every 4th
course are layers of reeds, serving as
binders. Inland, a very short distance
out of the town, is an isolated square
enclosure surrounded by a crude-brick
wall; and in the centre of the open
space it encloses is a grotto or cavern
cut in the rock, probably sepulchral, a
tomb being also found between this
and the wall of the town. The tombs
are probably of a later time than the
buildings themselves. Near the water's
edge are the remains of a stone quay;
and some fragments of unsculptured
blocks are met with in different places.
This place affords an interesting illustration
of the old Egyptian mode of
fortification; though from the irregularity
of the ground it does not
possess all the usual peculiarities of
their system of defence. Another
remarkable feature in the ruins at el-Háybee
is the style of the bricks in its
outer walls, which have 2 hieroglyphic
legends stamped upon them,
sometimes one containing ovals of a
king, sometimes another, with the
name of “the high-priest of Amen,
Pisham, deceased.” Pisham was one
of the military pontiffs, recorded at
Thebes, who held the sceptre immediately
before the Sheshonks of
the XXIst Dynasty; and who were
probably from Tanis. Indeed this
town seems to be mentioned in the
same legend. Herr Brugsch has discovered
among the inscriptions the
name of Thothmes III.
(W.) At Malateeyeh are other
mounds, and at the S.W. corner of
Gebel Sheykh Embárak is an old
ruined town, long since deserted,
which affords one of many proofs that
the Egyptians availed themselves of
similar situations, with the double
view of saving as much arable land
as possible, when a town could be
placed on an unproductive though
equally convenient spot, and of
establishing a commanding post at
the passes between the mountains and
the Nile.
(E.) Gebel Sheykh Embárak is a
lofty table mountain, approaching
very close to the river, and detached
from the main chain of the Gebel el-Bâzam,
which stretches far inland to
the S.E.
(W.) Maghagha , 14 m. (Rly. Stat.
2 hrs. by train from Benisooéf, and 2 1/2
from Minieh). This is one of the
most important sugar-factories in
Egypt, and an immense extent of
ground in the neighbourhood is devoted
to the cultivation of the sugarcane.
But the amount manufactured
has considerably diminished in late
years. The factory is interesting and
should be visited. A branch line for
the purpose of bringing the cane to
the mills extends inland to Abn-el-Wakf
and Beni Mazar , but it is only
used during the cane-harvest season.
The sandbanks above Maghágha are
a favourite resort of various kinds
of water-birds.
A little above Maghágha is the
Hágar es-Salám, or “Stone of Welfare,”
a rock in the stream near the
shore, so called from the idea of the
boatmen, “that a journey down the
Nile cannot be accounted prosperous
until after they have passed it.” The
mountains here recede from the Nile
to the eastward; and at Sharóna are
the mounds of an ancient town, perhaps
Pseneros or Shenero. Pococke
supposes it to be Musa or Muson. The
sites of other towns may also be seen
on the opposite side of the river, as at
Aba, 3 or 4 m. inland, and at Aboo-Girgeh
some distance to the S. (E.)
A few miles above Sharóda is Kom
Ahmar
(“the Red Mound”), with the
remains of bricks and masonry, perhaps
of Muson, and a few rude
grottoes. To the E. of this are several
dog-mummy pits, and the vestiges of
an ancient village, in the vicinity of
Hamátha.
(W.) Aboo Girgeh, 15 1/2 m., a large
village with extensive mounds, situated

in a rich plain about 2 m. from
the Nile.
About 7 m. farther inland is Béhnesa,
the ancient Oxyrhinchus, in
Coptic Pemge. The peculiar worship
of the Oxyrhinchus fish gave rise to
the Greek name of this city; and,
from the form of its “pointed nose,”
this fish was perhaps the Mizzeh or
Mizdeh of the present day, which may
be traced in the Coptic emge. The
modern name of the place has been
by some derived from the Benni, one
of the many fish of the Nile, conveniently
transformed into the oxyrhinchus
for an etymological purpose,
and, it is needless to say, without the
least shadow of reason. The position
of Béhnesa is far from being advantageous;
the Libyan desert having
made greater encroachments there
than in any part of the valley. Downs
of sand overgrown with bushes extend
along the edge of its cultivated land;
to the W. of which is a sandy plain of
great extent, with a gentle ascent,
towards the hills of the Libyan chain;
and behind these is a dreary desert.
On the S. side are some mounds
covered with sand, on which stand
several sheykhs' tombs; and others,
consisting of broken pottery and
bricks, sufficiently mark the site of a
large town, whose importance is proved
by the many granite columns, fragments
of cornices, mouldings, and
altars that lie scattered about. Little,
however, remains of its early monuments;
and if the size of its mounds
proclaims its former extent, the appearance
of its modern houses and the
limited number of three mosques show
its fallen condition.
Like other towns, Béhnesa boasts a
patron saint. He is called Et-Tak-rooree,
and is known in Arab songs
and legendary tales. He is even
believed to appear occasionally to the
elect, outside his tomb, accompanied
by a numerous retinue of horsemen,
but without any ostensible object.
There are said to be some caverns
on the N.W. side of the town filled
with water, and round one of them a
row of columns.
Béhnesa in the time of the Memlooks
enjoyed considerable importance,
being one of the principal towns
of modern Egypt. The Bahr Yoosef
once passed through the centre; but
the eastern portion of the city of
Oxyrhinchus is no longer part of
Béhnesa, and, being now called Sándofeh,
may be considered a distinct
village. At the period of the Arab
conquest Béhnesa was a place of great
importance, and of such strength
that, of the 16,000 men who besieged
it, 5000 are said to have perished in
the assault. The account of this conquest
and of the previous history of
the city, given by the Arab historian
Aboo Abdillahi ben Mohammed el-Mukkari,
is more like fable than a
real history.
(W.) Above Aboo Girgeh are el
Kays, Aboo-Azees, and other places,
whose mounds mark the position of
old towns. El-Kays, the Kais, of
the Copts, which is laid down in
Coptic MSS. between Nikafar and
Oxyrhinchus, is the ancient Cynopolis ,
the “City of the Dogs;” and it is
worthy of remark, that one of the
principal repositories of dog-mummies
is found on the opposite bank, in the
vicinity of Sheykh Fodl. It was not
unusual for a city to bury its dead,
as well as its sacred animals, on the
opposite side of the Nile; provided
the mountains were near the river, or
a more convenient spot offered itself
for the construction of catacombs than
in its own vicinity; and such appears
to have been the case in this instance.
There is reason to believe that one
branch of the Nile has been stopped
in this spot, which once flowed to the
W. of el-Kays; and this would accord
with the position of Cynopolis, in an
island, according to Ptolemy, and account
for the statement of Mukkaree
that el-Kays was on the E. bank. Co,
which Ptolemy places opposite Cynopolis,
should be some miles inland to
the W. Beni Mohammed el-Kofoór has
succeeded to the old Nikafar mentioned
in the Coptic MSS. It was
above Kais; but another town, called
Tamma, is placed by them between
Cynopolis and Oxyrhinchus.
(E.) At Sheykh Fodl, nearly opposite

el-Kays, are the sites of two
small temples. In the low hills to
the S.E., and about 2 m. from the
river, are several tombs containing
dog-mummies; from which it is
evident that more than one breed was
common in Egypt, as the sculptures
also show. Most of the large tombs
belonged to individuals: one of
them with 8 square pillars is called
el-Keneéseh, “the Church.” Some
of the many mummy-caves are only
small square holes, or coffins in the
rock. On the way to them from the
village you pass over an open space,
purposely levelled for a considerable
distance; and here and there are
oblong coffins cut in the surface of
this rocky plain. There are also
some large tombs, to one of which you
descend by 8 steps; and as the Nile
water percolates and rises in it during
the inundation to the height of at
least 1 1/2 ft., it has obtained the name
of Beer Sitteh Mariam (“Mary's
Well”). It consists of a large central
chamber, 7 paces by 4 1/2, with recesses
on each side and 2 at the end, each
containing a coffin cut like the rest of
it in the rock. It is much respected
by the Christians, who still bury their
dead in a mound in the vicinity.
(E.) In the hills behind Sheykh
Hassan
, on the E. bank, are extensive
limestone quarries. Near them are
some crude-brick remains, with broken
pottery; and in a chapel or niche in
the rock is a Christian inscription. A
singular isolated rock stands in the
plain behind Nezlet esh-Sheykh Hassan;
and similar solitary masses of
rock, left by the stone-cutters, are
met with to the S., with other
quarries, and a few small tombs.
About 2 1/2 m. to the S. of Nezlet esh-Sheykh
Hassan are the vestiges of an
ancient village; and in the plain
within the mouth of the Wády es-Serareeyeh
are an old station, or fort,
built of crude brick, and another
village. The river makes a considerable
bend to the W., just before
reaching
(W.) Klossana, 12 1/2 m. (Rly. Stat.),
a large village, standing on mounds
high above the Nile. The river has
eaten into the bank here very considerably,
and stones have been placed
to check its encroachments.
(E.) At the edge of the low rocky
hills, just beyond the village of
Serareeyeh, are the remains of two
ancient towns or villages; and a little
farther to the S. these hills recede to
the S.E., and form the northern side
of the Wády ed-Dayr. On the N.W.
of its mouth are some large limestone
quarries, in which were two painted
grotto temples dedicated to Athor,
and bearing the name of Meneptah,
the son of Rameses II.
The custom of placing quarries and
other localities under the peculiar
protection of some god was observed
by the Egyptians from the earliest to
the latest periods; the quarries of
Toora and Masárah, and the hills of
the pyramids, were under their
tutelary deity; and the Latin inscription
of Caracalla at Assooán speaks
of “Jupiter-Ammon, Cenubis, and
Juno, under whose guardianship the
hill was placed,” where new quarries
had been opened.
Round the corner of the rock, outside
these grottos, king Rameses III.
is represented with the crocodile-headed
god Savak and Athor, receiving
the honourable distinction of
“president of the assemblies;” and
at the side are two large ovals of the
same Pharaoh. In the low rocks just
below to the westward, is a tomb
consisting of 3 small chambers, without
sculptures.
At the extreme end of the hills, on
the S. side of Wády ed-Dayr, are vestiges
of a small town, and near it some
tombs and quarried rocks.
A ruined wall of crude brick ascends
the low northern extremity of
the Gebel et-Tayr; and some distance
farther up to the E. near the spot
where the mountain road descends
into the Wády ed-Dayr, about E.S.E.
from the convent, is a bed of trap
rock, rarely met with in the valley of
the Nile. The wall appears again
at the ravine called Wády el-Agóos,
4 or 5 m. farther S.
(W.) Samallout (Rly. Stat.) lies a
short distance inland, about 5 miles S.

of Klossana. It is rather a large
village, remarkable at a distance for a
tall and graceful minaret rising from
amidst a thick grove of palm-trees.
(E.) We now approach the lofty
and precipitous cliffs of Gebel et-Tayr,
which rise abruptly from the river to
a height of several hundred feet.
Great care should be taken in sailing
past them on account of the sudden
gusts of wind, which are very dangerous.
On its flat summit stands the
Convent of Sitteh Mariam el Adra
(“Our Lady Mary the Virgin”), hence
called Dayr el-Adra, and by some
Dayr el-Bukkarah (“of the Pulley”).
It is inhabited by Copts, who frequently
descend the face of the rocks
to the river, and, swimming off to a
passing boat, beg for charity from
the traveller, not without being sometimes
roughly handled by the Arab
boatmen. This practice has been
forbidden by the Coptic Patriarch,
but is still carried on, though to a
much smaller extent than formerly.
The easiest way of reaching the
convent is to land at the bank close
to the N. end of the cliffs, and walk
up; it is only a short distance, and is
worth doing, if time is not valuable,
for the sake of the view from the
platform outside the convent, which
is one of the most striking to be obtained
on the Nile. Like all the
Coptic “Dayrs” in Egypt, it is a
walled village with a church, a few
monks, and a few lay inhabitants,
men, women, and children. The
church, which is partly under ground,
is curious, the choir and sanctuary
being cut out of the solid rock. It is
said to have been founded by the
Empress Helena. There is an interesting
account given of a visit to
this convent in Curzon's Monasteries
of the Levant.'
Gebel et-Tayr, “the Mountain of
the Bird,” has a strange legendary
tale attached to it. All the birds of
the country are reported to assemble
annually at this mountain; and, after
having selected one of their number
to remain there till the following year,
they fly away into Africa, and only
return to release their comrade, and
substitute another in his place. The
story is probably another version of
that mentioned by Ælian, who speaks
of two hawks being deputed by the
rest of the winged community to go to
certain desert islands near Libya, for
no very definite purpose.
(E.) Between 3 and 4 m. S. of the
convent is the Gisr (or Hayt ) el-Agoos
(“the Dyke (wall) of the
Old Man, or rather, Old Woman.
It is built across the ravine, which is
called after it, Wády el-Agoos, and
is evidently intended to prevent any
approach from the desert into the valley
of the Nile. It is reported to have
been built by an ancient Egyptian
queen, whose name was Deloóka, and
to have extended from the sea to Assoán,
at the edge of the cultivated
land on either bank, and many vestiges
of it may be seen in various places.
That this wall was raised to check the
incursions of those robbers par excellence,
the Arabs (for the deserts were
formerly, as now, inhabited by similar
wandering tribes), is highly probable;
and the object of it was evidently to
prevent an ingress from that quarter,
since it extends along the opening of
the ravines, and is not carried over
those cliffs whose faces being precipitous
and impassable obviated the
necessity of its continuation. Diodorus
says that Sesostris “erected a
wall along the eastern side of Egypt,
to guard against the incursions of the
Syrians and Arabs, which extended
from Pelusium, by the desert to
Heliopolis, being in length 1500
stadia” (about 17 3 1/2 English m.); and
it is not improbable that the Gisr el-Agoos
may be a continuation of the
one he mentions. But the observation
of Voltaire, “s'il construisit ce
mur pour n'être point volé, c'est une
grande présomption qu'il n'alla pas
lui-même voler les autres nations,” is
by no means just, unless the fortified
stations built by the Romans in the
desert for the same purpose are proofs
of the weakness of that people. The
Arabs might plunder the peasant
without its being in the power of any
one to foresee or prevent their approach;
and every one acquainted

with the habits of those wanderers is
aware of the inutility of pursuing
them in an arid desert with an armed
force. Besides, a precaution of this
kind obliged them to resort to the
towns to purchase corn; and thus the
construction of a wall had the double
advantage of preventing the plunder
of the peasant, and of rendering the
Arabs dependent upon Egypt for the
supplies necessity forced them to purchase;
nor did the Government incur
the expense of paying their chiefs, to
deter them from hostility.
At the Gisr el-Agoos are the remains
of an ancient village, and a few
grottos; and above the town of Gebel
et-Tayr are other grottos.
(E.) Two m. beyond this is the site
of an ancient town, now called Téhneh,
or Tehneh oo Mehneh. Its lofty and
extensive mounds lie at the mouth of
Wády Téhneh, 3/4 m. from the river,
under an isolated rocky eminence of
the eastern chain of hills, whose precipitous
limestone cliffs overhang the
arable land that separates them from
the Nile.
Above a rough grotto in the lower
part of the rock, about 1/4 m. to the
S. of the ancient town, is a Greek
inscription of the time of Ptolemy
Epiphanes; which, from the word
Acôris in the third line, appears to
indicate the position of the city of
that name. This, however, is not
certain. Acôris, the individual who
put up the dedication, may have had
the same name without its proving
anything respecting the site of the
city; and the position of Téhneh does
not sufficiently agree with that of
Acôris.
The inscription is

“For the welfare of King Ptolemy, the God
Epiphanes, the Great Eucharistes, Acôris the
Son of Ergeus, to Isis Mochias, Soteira (the
Saviour Goddess).”
On one side below the inscription,
is the figure of a goddess; on the
other that of a god, probably Osiris;
and it was perhaps intended that the
king should be introduced in the
centre, offering to the two seated
deities.
Above this is a flight of steps cut in
the rock, leading to a grotto, which
has a niche, but no sculptures. Following
the path to the S., along the
western face of the cliffs, you come to
a tablet of Rameses III. receiving the
falchion from the hand of the crocodile-headed
god Savak, or Savak-ra.
in the presence of Amen; and beyond
this is a large oval, the nomen of the
same Pharaoh.
Returning thence to the S. side of
the isolated rock that stands above
the town, you perceive at the upper
part of it two figures in high relief,
each holding a horse. They represent
two Roman emperors (rather than
Castor and Pollux, as some have
imagined), and between them appears
to have been another figure, perhaps
of a god.
The base of this hill is perforated
with tombs, some of which have Greek
inscriptions, with the names of their
owners. At the door of one is a
Roman figure standing before an altar,
who holds in one hand some twigs,
and apparently presents incense with
the other. Within is the same person
and his son before four gods, but
without hieroglyphics; and the architecture
of the grotto is more Roman
than Egyptian. It was closed as
usual with folding-doors, secured by
a bolt. There is also a figure of tho
god Nilus bringing offerings and a
bull for sacrifice.
In one of these tombs is an enchorial
inscription much defaced; and
some have mouldings and ornamental
devices of Roman time.
Near the above-mentioned grotto,
and below the isolated rock overhanging
the town, is a niche of Roman
time, with the remains of a mutilated
figure in relief within it; and on
either side of it is this Greek inscription,—


—which shows that people made mistake

in orthography in those times
as at the present day. About 760 ft.
to the S. of this isolated rock are
other grottos; then a small quarry
at the point of the hill; turning round
which to the rt., you enter a ravine,
and on reaching the mountain summit
to the S.W you come to some curious
trenches and workings in stone. During
the ascent you pass some crevices
in the rock, incrusted with a thin deposit
of crystallised carbonate of lime,
here and there assuming a stalactitic
form; numerous fossils may also be
observed.
The trenches at the top of the hill
are curious, from their showing a peculiar
mode of opening a quarry, and
of hewing square blocks of stone; another
instance of which is met with
near the N.W. angle of the second
pyramid of Geezeh. They began by
levelling the surface of the rock to
the extent admitted by the nature
of the ground, or the intended size of
the quarry, and this space they surrounded
by a deep trench, forming a
parallelogram; with one of its sides
open, to facilitate the removal of the
stones. They then cut other parallel
trenches along its entire length, about
7 or 8 ft. apart, and others at right
angles to them until the whole was
divided into squares. The blocks
were then cut off according to their
required thickness. One of the quarries
of Téhneh has been divided in
this manner, and the outer trenches
of two others have been traced, even
to the depth of 21 ft. in parts, though
their direction is less regular than in
the former. In this the trenches are
about 1 1/2 and 2 ft. broad, and the
squares measure from 6 1/2 to 7 ft. 1 in.
each way; the whole length of the
quarry being 126 ft. by 32 ft. in
breadth; and so conveniently is it
placed that the stones, when separated
from the rock, were rolled down
to the valley beneath, without the
trouble of carriage. The division into
squares enabled them to take off a
succession of blocks of the same dimensions;
and layer after layer was
removed, according to the depth of
the quarry, which continued to be
worked downwards as long as the
rock remained good. Where circular
blocks were required for the drums,
bases, or capitals, of columns, they
had only to round off the corners;
and this was evidently done in some
instances at the quarry of Téhneh.
On the summit of the hills, about
500 ft. to the S. of these trenches, the
stone has been quarried to a great
extent; and about 100 ft. from the
edge of the cliffs overhanging the
cultivated land are some chambers
sunk in the rock, two of which are
coated with red stucco. One of these
is round, and measures 17 ft. in diameter.
It has a doorway leading into
it, from a staircase communicating
with some small rooms; and on one
side is a ledge or hollow, as if intended
for a water-wheel. The other
is square: it has a flight of 7 steps
leading down into it from the top,
and appears to have been a reservoir
to hold water for the use of the workmen.
It was doubtless filled by
buckets lowered from the brow of
the cliff to the water below, which
accounts for it being made in this
spot, close to the precipitous face of
the hills, which rise abruptly to the
height of 400 or 500 feet above the
plain. Indeed it is evident that the
Nile formerly ran immediately below
them, and even now, during the inundation,
it rises to the height of 5 ft.
4 in. at their base, covering the narrow
strip of alluvial soil it has deposited
between them and its retiring
channel.
On the S. of the reservoir is another
square chamber, like all the
others, cut in the rock. In the centre
of it is a four-sided isolated mass
having an arched door or opening on
each face, which probably once supported
the centre of the roof; for they
were doubtless all covered over; and
on the S. side of this chamber are
two niches, and another on the E.
Adjoining its S.W. corner is a square
pit.
The story of the 300 ravens that
assemble over this spot every year, in
the month of Rabi Awel, and, after
soaring above it with repeated cries,

fly away to the desert, is evidently
another version of the tale of Gebel
et-Tayr, already mentioned.
(W.) Inland, on the opposite bank,
is Táha, or Táha el-Amoodayn, “of the
two columns,” in Coptic Touhô, once
said to have been a large place, equal
in size to Minieh. Its mounds still
mark it as the successor of an ancient
town. It is supposed to occupy
the site of Theodôsiou, and appears
from some Coptic and Arabic MSS.
to have been distinguished from a
village of the same name beyond
Oshmoonayn, by the additional title
of Medeéneh, signifying “city.”
There is nothing worth noticing
between Téhneh and Minieh; but in
the desert behind Dowadeeyeh on the
E. bank is an alabaster quarry.
(W.) Minieh , 22 1/2 m. (Rly. Stat.,
6 1/2 hrs. from Cairo), a large and important
town, population 16,000, capital
of the province of the same name,
and residence of the Mudeer, prettily
situated on the W. bank of the river.
It is about 160 m. from Cairo by water,
and 151 by rail. There is a Post and
Telegraph Office, to which letters can
be addressed, in the town. A market
is held every Sunday. The first sugar
factory established in Egypt was built
at Minieh, and it still exists, greatly
enlarged and improved. During the
cane-harvest, and when the mills are
in full activity, the town presents a
busy and animated appearance. On
the river-bank to the N. of the factory
is a palace of the Khedive.
Minieh is generally styled Miniet
ibn Khaseéb, which is the name given
it by Ibn Saïd. It was also called
Monieh, and, according to some,
Miniet ibn Fusseel; and they pretend
that tradition mentions a Greek king
of the place, with the (Arabic) name
of Kasim. In Coptic it is called
Mooné or Tmônê, and in the Memphitic
dialect Thmômê, signifying
“the Abode.” It is from the Monê,
“Mansion,” as Champollion observes,
that the Arabic Minieh or Miniet
(by abbreviation Mit), so frequently
applied to Egyptian villages, has been
derived.
Leo Africanus says, “Minieh, on
the W. bank of the Nile, is a very neat
town, built in the time of the Moslems,
by Khaseeb, who was appointed
governor under the Khalifate of Bagdad.
It abounds in every kind of
fruit, which, though sent to Cairo
cannot, on account of the distance,
arrive fresh in that city, being 170 m.
off. It boasts many handsome buildings,
and the remains of ancient
Egyptian monuments. The inhabitants
are wealthy, and commercial
speculation induces them to travel
even as far as the kingdom of Soodan.”
Over the doorway of a mosque, near
the river, are a few fragments of
Roman-Greek architecture. Within
are several granite and marble
columns, some with Corinthian
capitals; and the devout believe that
water flows spontaneously every
Friday from one of their shafts, for
the benefit of the faithful. A sheykh's
tomb, overshadowed by a sycamore-tree,
on the N. side of the town, near
the spot where boats generally moor,
has a picturesque effect, and the
numerous figures on the bank, and
boats on the river, make up a pretty
and very typical picture of Nile river-bank
scenery. Numerous wild-fowl
and other aquatic birds frequent the
sandbanks near Minieh.
(E.) At the projecting corner of the
mountain behind El-Howárte, on the
E. bank, are the remains of an old
cemetery which Professor Sayce considers
may have been the Necropolis
of Minieh from the XIXth Dynasty
to the Christian period. On the cliffs
facing the river he found the figure of
Rameses III. carved in large size upon
the rock, with his cartouche twice
repeated upon one side and the figure
of a god upon the other.
The Egyptians invariably built a
small town, or fort, on the ascent of
the mountains on the E. bank, wherever
the accessible slope of the hills
approached the cultivated plain, and
left a narrow passage between it and
the Nile; as may be seen at Sheykh
Embárak, Gebel et-Tayr, Téhneh,
Kom-Ahmar, Isbáyda, and several

other places; having the twofold object
of guarding these passes from the
Arabs of the desert, and of substituting
the barren rock, as a foundation
to their houses, for the more useful
soil of the arable land.
(E.) Near Sooádee are several extensive
sugar plantations. The village
has probably succeeded to the site of
an ancient town. It has mounds, and
a few stones of old buildings: and
above, at the corner of the mountain,
are some grottos, or tombs, in the
rock.
(E.) Near Sooádee is the small village
of Neslet ez Zówyeh, and to the S.
of it are vestiges of an ancient village,
with a small fortress of rectangular
shape on the N. side of the ancient
village. To the N. and N.E. of Neslet
ez Zówyeh are extensive quarries, extending
also between two hills, on each
side of the ravine that separates them.
In one are remains of mouldings
painted over a niche of Christian time,
the pilasters having rude capitals.
The rock is nummulite.
(E.) The modern cemetery of Mínieh
is at Zôwyet el-Mýiteén, between
Sooádee and Kom-Ahmar. Thrice
every year they pay a visit of ceremony
to the tombs, in the months
of Showál (Eed es-Sogheiyer), of
Zillegeh (Eed el-Kebeér), and Regeb.
The visit lasts 7 days: the 15th of
the month, or the full moon, being
the principal day. The mode of
ferrying over the bodies of the dead,
accompanied by the ululations of women,
and the choice of a cemetery on
the opposite side of the river, cannot
fail to call to mind the customs of the
ancient Egyptians; and it is remarkable
that they have not selected a spot
immediately in front of the town, but
have preferred one near the tombs of
their pagan predecessors. It was the
old Egyptian custom of ferrying over
the dead that gave rise to the table of
Charon and the Styx, which Diodorus
very consistently traces from the funeral
ceremonies of Egypt.
(E.) About 2 m. beyond Sooádee
are some old limestone quarries: and
at Kom el-Ahmar are the mounds of an
ancient town. Its name signifies the
“Red Mound,” which it has received
from the quantity of pottery that lies
scattered over it, and the burnt walls
of its crude-brick houses. It is uncertain
of what place it occupies the site.
Some have supposed it to be Muson;
but it is possible that Alabastron may
have stood here.
(E.) A short distance from Metáhara
is Kom-el-Ahmar; and in the hills
near it are some curious sepulchral
grottos with the double cartouche of
King Meri-Ra I., and a singular instance
of columns surmounted by capitals
in the form of the full-blown
lotus. And here it may be well to
observe that the usual bell-formed
capitals, frequently said to represent
the lotus, are taken from the papyrus.
(E.) The caves to the E. of Nesleh
Metáhara
are very old; and from the
form of their round lintels appear to
be of the IVth or VIth Dynasty. They
have been occupied by the early Christians,
who have painted the Egyptian
Tau, or sign of life, in lieu of the cross,
accompanied by the words EIC EOC.
Others have vestiges of Coptic inscriptions.
(W.) At Sharára, on the W. Bank,
are the mounds of an ancient town.
(E). About 1 m. beyond Welad
Noayr
, are some grottos, without
sculpture; and 2 m. farther, the celebrated
grottos of Beni Hassan.
(E.) Beni Hassan , 14 1/2 m. The
nearest point to Beni Hassan on the
railway is the station of Aboo Kerkas.
By taking beds and provisions for one
or two nights, the grottos might be
visited from Cairo by rail, as it would
be possible to sleep in the station; if
not, a tent would be required. The
grottos (or, as they are indiscriminately
called, tombs, catacombs, or
caves) of Beni Hassan are excavated
in the rock, at the side of the hills
that overhang the valley of the Nile.
The bank below, a detritus of sand
and gravel, has been cut through by
the river, which formerly encroached
on this side, but which has again retired
to the westward, to the great inconvenience
of travellers, who, when
the water is low, are obliged to walk

nearly two miles from the nearest
point their boat can approach.
The Speos Artemidos, called by the
Arabs Stabl Antar, is about 3 m. to
the S. of the grottos, near the village
of Beni Hassan, and the best way in
coming down the river is to stop at the
village, visit the Speos first, and then
walk to the grottos, the boat being
sent on to the nearest point to the
last-named. This will be an excursion
of 6 or 7 hours. The Speos may, how
ever, without any great loss be omitted
from the programme, and a long and
wearisome walk saved; 3 or 4 hours
will then be sufficient. It may be well
to repeat here the advice already given
to those travellers who are intending
to do the voyage up and down the Nile
within a certain time, that they should
not stop on the way up to see anything,
unless an unfavourable wind prevents
the boat making any progress, and
then of course the delay, if it occurs
near anything worth seeing, may be
utilised, and so much time will be
saved on the way down. As a rule,
the north wind blows merrily in the
neighbourhood of Beni Hassan, and
the traveller, sitting on the deck of his
boat as it breasts the stream on its
way south, will content himself with a
view through his glass of the terrace
of tombs in the wall-like limestone
range. For those who travel by Cook's
steamers, everything will be found
provided for the visit to the tombs.
The ancient approach to the grottos
of Beni Hassan was evidently
from the westward; roads of considerable
breadth lead to them, up the slope
of the hill from the bank, which are
readily distinguished by the stones
ranging on either side, as in the roads
made by the ancients across the desert,
and before some of the tombs of
Thebes, and in the mountains near
Abydus. These stones consist in a
great measure of the large rounded
boulders which abound here; and
which are not met with, in such numbers
at least, in any other part of the
valley. They are calcareous, and full
of shells, containing much silex, very
heavy and hard, and externally of a
dark-brown colour.
The Grottos are cut in one of the
strata, which was found to be best
suited for such excavations; and, from
the subjects and hieroglyphies on the
walls they were evidently intended
for sepulchral purposes. The variety
of the scenes represented in them is
particularly interesting; and if the
style and proportions of the figures are
not equal to those in the catacombs
of Thebes, they are not less curious
from the light they throw on the
manners and customs of the Egyptians.
They have also the merit of being of
an earlier date than those of Thebes;
and in the elegant chaste style of
their architecture these tombs may vie
with any in the valley of the Nile.
The northern differ considerably
from the southern grottos, though so
close together and of nearly the same
date, and may, perhaps, be thought to
excel them in the beauty of their
plan, as in the simplicity of their columns,
which seem to be the prototype
of the Doric shaft. These are
polygons, of sixteen sides, each slightly
fluted, except the inner face, which
was left flat for the purpose of introducing
a line of hieroglyphies. Each
flute is 8 in. broad. It has no fillet;
and the deepest part of the groove is
barely half an inch. The shaft is 16 ft.
8 1/2 in. in height, and of 5 ft. diameter,
with a very trilling decrease of thickness
at the upper end, which is crowned
by an abacus scarcely exceeding in
diameter the summit of the column.
The ceiling between each architrave,
cut in imitation of a vault, has the
form of a segment of a circle; and has
once been ornamented with various
devices; the four pillars being so arranged
as to divide the chamber into
a central nave and two lateral aisles.
In these, as in all the excavated
temples and grottos of Egypt, we
have decided proofs of their having
been imitations of buildings; which
is contrary to the opinion of some
persons, who conclude that the earliest
were excavations in the rock, and that
constructed monuments were of later
date in Egypt. But independent of
our finding stone buildings existing
in the country, as about the pyramids,

of the same early date as the oldest
excavated monuments, we have a proof
of these last having imitated in their
style the details of constructive architecture.
Thus, an architrave runs
from column to column; the abacus
(originally a separate member) is
placed between the shaft and the
architrave, neither of which would be
necessary, or have been thought of, in
mere excavations; and so obviously
unnecessary were they, that in later
times the Egyptians frequently omitted
both the abacus and the architrave
in their excavated monuments,
as in the tombs of the kings, and
several grottos, at Thebes. But this
was an after-thought, and the oldest
excavated monuments have the imitated
features of constructive architecture.
And following out the same
train of reasoning, is it not allowable
to suppose that the vaulted form of
the ceilings of these grottos of Beni
Hassan were an imitation of the arch?
It was used, if not in temples, at least
in the houses and tombs of the Egyptians;
for, whatever may be the date
of stone arches, crude-brick ones have
been found of a very early period.
The columns in the southern grottos
of Beni Hassan are also of the earliest
Egyptian style, though very different
from those already mentioned. They
represent the stalks of four water-plants
bound together, and surmounted
by a capital in form of a lous or
a papyrus-bud, which is divided, as
the shaft itself, into four projecting
lobes. The transverse section of these
grottos is very elegant, and the
architrave resembles a depressed pediment
extending over the columns,
and resting at either end on a narrow
pilaster.
All the caves of Beni Hassan are
ornamented with coloured figures, or
other ornamental devices; and the
columns, with the lower part of the
walls in the northern grottos, are
stained of a red colour to resemble
granite, in order to give them an appearance
of greater solidity and splendour
of material. These imitations
of hard stone and rare wood were very
commonly practised by the Egyptians,
though it is a singular fact that granite
and other stone used in their
monuments, are very often coloured,
and could not then be distinguished.
But when the real surface of the granite
was seen, and it was not painted,
the hieroglyphics were of one uniform
green, or blue, colour. The walls in
the grottos at Beni Hassan have
been prepared as usual for receiving
the subjects represented upon them by
overlaying them with a thin coating
of lime, the parts where the rock was
defective having been filled up with
mortar. The principal part of the
figures and the hieroglyphics were
merely painted; and some of the
latter, in a long series of perpendicular
lines round the lower part of the walls
of the second tomb, are merely of one
uniform green colour, as on granite.
The date of these grotto-tombs is
the beginning of the XIIth Dynasty,
the names of Osirtasen I. and II.
being found in them; and the personages
buried in them were state
functionaries, belonging to the town
whose necropolis was situated in these
mountains. The principle of their
construction and decoration is the
same as those at the Pyramids and
Sakkárah,—1. an exterior chamber,
which, built inside a mastabah there,
is here hollowed out of the rock; 2. a
well, opening from the centie or
corner of the chamber; and 3. the
subterranean tomb at the bottom of
the well, containing the sarcophagus
and mummy. The paintings represent
scenes in the life of the deceased;
they are in fact a sort of pictorial
biography, and the mystic signs and
divinities common to a later epoch
are absent here as at the Pyramids
and Sakkárah. There seems to have
been less thought of rewards and
punishments in the future life.
Northern Grottos—Tomb of Améni.
—The whole of these tombs seem to
have belonged to one family, of which
Améni was the patriarch. His is the
first tomb to the north. The whole
pedigree may be found in Brugsch's
'History of Egypt.' The family
seems to have held, by a kind of

hereditary right, the government of
the adjoining nome of Sah, or Antinöe.
The grandson of Améni, through
his daughter Bakt, continued the
line, of which we have here records
of the highest historical interest, down
to the reign of Osirtasen III., the 5th
king of the XIIth Dynasty. Améni,
himself, was a military commander
under Amenemhat I.; and died in
the thirty-fourth year of the reign of
Osirtasen I. An inscription over the
door gives us the name of his tomb—
As. It is dedicated to a triad of local
gods—Knum, Tater, and Horus. The
inscription on the southern door-post
dedicates it to Anubis, and that on
the northern to “Osiris of the city of
Abydos.” The life of Améni—related
by himself—is written within. He
accompanied Osirtasen against the
people of Cush, and into the country
of the tribes of Atoo. He escorted
the king's heir and his treasures to
the town of Coptos, with 400 chosen
soldiers from his province. He was,
he says, “full of goodness and of a
gentle character, a ruler who loved
his town.” The latter part of the
inscription is especially curious as
affording a parallel to the history of
Joseph: “the hungry did not exist in
my time, even when there were years
of famine. For behold, I ploughed
all the fields of Sah, to its frontiers
both north and south: thus I found
food for its inhabitants, and I gave
them whatever it produced. There
were no hungry people in it. I gave
equally to the widow as to the married
woman. I did not prefer a great
personage to a humble man in all
that I gave away: and when the
inundations of the Nile were great,
he who sowed was master of his crop.
I kept back nothing for myself from
the revenues of the field.”
Paintings.—It would be impossible
to give a detailed description of the
scenes depicted in this and the other
tombs; and indeed the visitor would
have some trouble, without lights and
a ladder, in making out any of those
above the line of sight. It will be
sufficient to indicate some of the
principal incidents.
In the tomb of Améni are represented
various trades: watering the
flax, and its employment for the
manufacture of linen cloth; agricultural
and hunting scenes; wrestling;
attacking a fort under cover of
the testudo; dancing; and the presentation
of offerings to the deceased,
whose life and occupations are also
alluded to. In one place scribes
register their accounts; in another
the bastinado is inflicted unsparingly
on delinquent servants; nor is it confined
to men and boys, but extended
to the other sex, the difference being
in the mode of administering the
stripes. The former were thrown
prostrate on the ground, and held
while punished; the latter sat, and
were beaten on the shoulders. Here
chasseurs transfix, with stone-tipped
arrows, the wild animals of the desert,
and the mountains are represented by
the waved line that forms the base of
the picture. Some are engaged in
dragging a net full of fish to the
shore, others in catching geese and
wild-fowl in large clap-nets; in another
part women play the harp; and
some are employed in kneading paste
and in making bread. The three
sitting figures at the end of the
tomb, now almost obliterated, are
those of Améni himself and his two
wives.
Tomb of Knum-hotep.—The next
tomb is that of Knum-hotep, governor,
like Améni, his grandfather, of the
province of Sah. In the inscription
which runs round the bottom of the
tomb Knum-hotep recounts the history
of his life, and tells us that his
father, mother, and ancestors lived in
the town of Menat-Shoofoo (perhaps
Minieh). His mother, we read, went
to the king, and obtained for her son
the post which her father had held,
to which he was formally appointed
in the 19th year of Amenemhat II.
By obtaining this honour, and by his
conduct, he “rendered the name of
his father illustrious.' His father's
name, here alluded to, was Nehera.
This inscription contains a list of
annual festivals, which may be compared
with a similar list over the

entrance door of the tomb. The principal
festivals mentioned are those of
the Dead, the New Year, the Beginning
of the Solar Year, the Great
Panegyric, the Great Heat, the Little
Heat, the Five Intercalary Days, the
Twelve Monthly Feasts, the Twelve
Half-monthly, “and all the Feasts in
the Valley, or on the Mountain.”
Paintings.—The style of the paintings
in this tomb is very superior and
more highly-finished than in the
other, but they have suffered sadly
from the hand of time and the idiotic
barbarity of travellers, who seem to
think that the more valuable the
monument the better adapted it is
for writing their names on. It is
worthy of notice that the feeding of
the oryx on the north corner, and
particularly the figure, in perspective,
holding one of the animals by the
horns, are divested of the formality of
an Egyptian drawing; and the fish
on the wall opposite the entrance are
admirably executed. It is remarkable
that the phagrus, or eel, is there
introduced, and apparently the two
other sacred fish, the oxyrhynchus
and lepidotus.
On the upper part of the N. wall is
a very curious scene, unfortunately
fast disappearing. Knum-hotep is
depicted standing with his favourite
dogs beside him, and towards him
is advancing a procession which was
at one time supposed to represent
the arrival of Joseph's brethren in
Egypt; but the date at which the
tombs were excavated, several centuries
before the age of Joseph, and
the name and number written over the
people, show the incorrectness of this
idea. The first figure is an Egyptian
scribe, who presents an account of the
arrival of the strangers to his master
Knum-hotep. The next, also an Egyptian,
ushers them into his presence;
and two advance, bringing presents,
consisting of an ibex or wild-goat, and
a gazelle,—the productions of their
country, or caught on the way. Four
men, carrying bows and clubs, follow,
leading an ass, on which two children
are placed in panniers, accompanied
by a boy and four women; and last of
all, another ass laden, and two men,
one holding a bow and club, the other
a lyre, which he plays with the plectrum.
All the men have aquiline
noses, and pointed black beards. The
wearing a beard was contrary to the
custom of the Egyptians, but very
general in the East at that period,
and noticed as a peculiarity of foreign
uncivilised nations throughout their
sculptures. The men have sandals,
the women a sort of boot reaching to
the ankle. The inscription above this
scene tells us that the deputation
brought a present of Mastemut, or
paint for the eyes, a cometio much
prized, and prepared in Arabia.
The number of these strangers is
37, and their name Amoo. The interest
of this picture lies in the fact that
it represents the most ancient known
immigration of Asiatic tribes into
Egypt. According to M. Mariette,
Amoo signifies ‘shepherd,’ or “cowherd,”
and was the generic name of
the Syro-Aramaic races, who subsequently
peopled the eastern part of
the Delta, and perhaps were, with the
Israelites, the Shepherds, or Hyksos
of Manetho. The chief is styled
prince of Abesha.
For a full account of the inscriptions
in this and the preceding grotto, see
Brugsch's ‘History of Egypt,’ vol. i.
pp. 134 and 147.
Southern Grottos.—The Paintings
in two of the southern grottos are particularly
worthy of mention. The first
of them contains the usual hunting
scene; but here the name of each
animal is written above it in hieroglyphics;
and below are the birds of the
country, distinguished in like manner
by their Egyptian name. In one part
women are performing feats of agility;
and various modes of playing at ball,
throwing up and catching three in succession,
and other diversifications of
the game, are represented amongst
their favourite amusements. In another
part is a subject representing
a barber shaving a customer. Their
numerous occupations are here pointed
out by the introduction of the most
common trades; among which the

most remarkable are glassblowers,
goldsmiths, statuaries, painters, workers
in flax, and potters: and the circumstance
of the cattle being tended
by decrepit herdsmen serves to show
in what low estimation this class of
people was held by the Egyptians.
On the eastern wall are wrestlers
in various attitudes: and to distinguish
more readily the action of each
combatant, the artist has availed himself
of a dark and a light colour;
one being painted red, the other
black: and indeed, in the figures
throughout these tombs, the direction
of the arms when crossing the body
is in like manner denoted by a different
colour, or by a lighter outline.
On the southern wall some peasants
are sentenced to the bastinado, and a
woman is subjected to the same mode
of correction. In these the figures
are smaller than in the northern
grottos, and their style and proportions
are very inferior.
The next tomb but one is a copy
of that just mentioned; but the figures
are very badly executed. In addition
to the other subjects common to them
both, we find men playing chess (or
rather draughts), some curious birdtraps,
and on the S. wall a square of
magazines with circular roofs, which
appear to point out the existence of
the crude-brick vault in the time of
these early Pharaohs. It is in these
tombs that we find the greatest variety
of games, trades, and illustrations
of the manners and customs of
the Egyptians, which have been so
useful in the insight they have afforded
into the habits of that ancient people,
and which have been copied and
described in Sir G. Wilkinson's book,
'The Ancient Egyptians.' In looking
at these pictures, we are struck
with the singular custom of writing
over each subject or object the name
of whatever the artist intended to
represent, even the animals and most
ordinary figures: which may have
been the remnant of an old custom
when they began drawing, these highly
conservative people continuing to the
latest times to adopt the early usages
of their ancestors. And this calls to
mind a remark of Ælian, that, “when
painting was in its infancy, they drew
so rudely that artists wrote over the
pictures, ‘this is an ox,’ ‘that a horse,’
'this a tree.'”
The tombs beyond to the S. present
defaced paintings not worthy of notice.
Among other singular customs with
which the grottos of Beni Hassan
have made us acquainted is that of
admitting dwarfs and deformed persons
into the suite of the grandees;
and these, as well as buffoons, were
introduced at a later time into different
countries of Europe, in imitation
of an usage common from the earliest
ages in the East.
On the wall of one of the tombs is
a Greek alphabet, with the letters
transposed in various ways, evidently
by a person teaching Greek, who appears
to have found these cool recesses
a comfortable resort for himself and
his pupils.
In observing the number of animals,
and the various customs, represented
in the tombs of Beni Hassan, and in
those about the pyramids, every one
must be surprised at the omission of
the horse: and it has been supposed
that the use of the horse and the chariot
was introduced into Egypt by the
Shepherds, or by Thothmes III. on
his return from Asia. The first notice
of it is on the monuments of the
XVIIIth Dynasty.
The villages of Beni Hassan were
destroyed many years ago by Ibrahim
Pasha, the inhabitants being incorrigible
thieves; and even now it is
as well to keep a good watch at night,
while anchored near this spot. Indeed
the inhabitants of all the villages
from Beni Hassan to the vicinity
of Manfaloot are addicted to thieving,
and additional precautions are necessary
throughout the whole of that
district. The present Village of Beni
Hassan
stands 2 m. to the S. of the
grottos, and nearly 1 m. to the S.E.
of it is the Speos Artemidos , to which
the common name of Stabl Antar has
been applied by the modern Egyptians.
It is situated in a small rocky
valley, or ravine, about 1/4 m. from its
mouth. There was an ancient town

near this place called in the ancient
texts Hir-uer, or Ab, the capital of
the 16th nome.
To the rt., on entering the ravine,
are several pits and tombs cut in the
rock. Some of these last have had
well-shaped doorways with the usual
Egyptian cornice, and round one are
still some traces of coloured hieroglyphics.
Three are larger than the
rest. In the first of these (going from
the valley of the Nile) the paintings
have been blackened with smoke, and
few of them can be distinctly traced.
Near its S.E. corner are some waterplants,
and here and there some
Greek inscriptions scratched on the
stucco. Beyond this, to the E., is
another with a cornice over the door,
bearing the names of Alexander, the
son of Alexander the Great, Ptolemy
Lagus being at that time governor of
Egypt in his name. In the centre
are the globe and asps; and on the
architrave below the king is kneeling
to present the figure of Truth to the
lioness-headed goddess of the place,
Pasht or Bubastis. Behind him
stands Athor, the Egyptian Venus.
On one side of the two centre compartments
the king is standing in the
presence of Amen and Horus, on the
other of Thoth and Moui (Gem, Gom,
Sem or Hercules).
The next large grotto to the E. is
the Speos Artemidos (“the Cave of
Diana”
) itself. Like the others, it is
wholly excavated in the rock. It was
begun by Thothmes III., and other
sculptures were added by Sethi I.,
the father of Rameses II.; but it was
never completed. It consists of a
portico with two rows of square pillars,
four in each, of which the outer
one alone remains; and though rough
on one side and unfinished, they each
bear the name of those two kings, and
of the goddess Pasht, the Egyptian
Diana, whose legend is followed by a
lioness (not a cat), as throughout the
sculptures of this grotto. A door, or
passage, leads thence into the naos,
which measures 81/4 by 9 paces, and at
the end wall is a niche about 6 ft.
deep, and raised 8 ft. from the floor,
intended no doubt for the statue of
the goddess, or of the sacred animal
dedicated to her. It is also unfinished;
but on one of the jambs is a figure of
Pasht. In the doorway or passage
leading to the naos are two recesses,
cut in the side wall, which, if not of
later date, may have been intended
as burying-places for the sacred
animals. There are others in the
portico. Animal worship was probably
of African origin; and the lion,
cynocephalus, and others were not
natives of Egypt.
The only finished sculptures are on
the inner wall of the portico. They
are of the early time already mentioned,
and therefore of a good period
of Egyptian art; but they vary in
style, some being in relief, others in
intaglio. On one side Thothmes III.
is making offerings to Pasht and
Thoth; on the other Sethi is kneeling
before Amen, attended by Pasht;
and, in a line of hieroglyphics behind
him, mention is made of the sculptures
added by him in honour of “his
mother Pasht, the beautiful lady of
the Speos.” In the portico, one of
those singular changes appears, so
common in ancient Egyptian monuments.
The name Amen has been
introduced instead of other hieroglyphics;
and that this was done in the
time of king Sethi himself is evident
from the fact of its being in intaglio
like his name, which has been substituted
for that of Thothmes. Changes
have also been made in the legends
over some of the twelve deities seated
on the 1. of the picture, which have
been altered by Sethi in intaglio.
Pasht occurs again twice over the
door, and once in the doorway of the
naos. She has always the head of a
lioness, and the title, “Lady of the
Excavation” or “Speos.”
On the face of the rock, over the
facade of the portico, are some lines
of hieroglyphics. There are several
pits and smaller grottos on this and
on the opposite side of the valley,
where lions and cats, the animals particularly
sacred to Pasht, were probably
buried. In some of them the
bones of cats, and even dogs, are said
to have been discovered.
(E.) At Sheykh Timay are some
catacombs and limestone quarries, and
traces of the crude-brick wall of Gisr
el-Agoos
are seen on the low hills
near the river. The story of it here
is, that a queen built it to protect her
son from the crocodiles—a fair specimen
of Arab tradition.
There are no sculptures in the excavated
tombs of Sheykh Timay, but
the curious nummulitic rocks, and
large rounded boulders full of fossils,
are worth the trouble of a walk to the
hills if there is time to spare.
(E.) The river here has, except at
high Nile, almost deserted its ancient
course beneath the mountains, and
takes a considerable bend to the W.
Near the S. end of the old channel is
the site of Antinoë, or Antinoöpolis,
the few ruins of which still existing
lie among the magnificent palmgroves
of the modern village of Sheykh
Abádeh.
It was built by Hadrian,
and called after his favourite, Antinoüs;
who, having accompanied him
to Egypt, drowned himself in the
Nile, with the idea of securing the
happiness of the Emperor (which an
oracle had declared could only be
obtained by the sacrifice of what was
most dear to him); in commemoration
of which Hadrian founded this
city near the spot, and instituted
games and sacrifices in his honour.
The modern name of Antinoë was
given it, according to Wansleb, from
a Moslem who was converted to
Christianity, and afterwards, under
the name of Ammonius el abid (“the
Devout”), suffered martyrdom there.
It is also called Ansina or Insina, and
Medéenet Ontholae, in Coptic Antnôon;
and the old town of Arsinoë itself
succeeded to one of earlier time, which
some suppose to have been the ancient
Besa, famed for its oracle. Ammianus
Marcellinus places Besa in the
vicinity of Abydus, though the combined
name of Besantinoöpolis, given
to the former, seems conclusive evidence
of its real position; and some
suppose that a village called Abydus
stood here. Aboolfeda describes
Antinoë under the name of Ansina,
as having “extensive remains of
ancient monuments, and much arable
land:” and he adds, “that the
Nubian geographer, Edreesce, speaks
of it as an ancient city remarkable
for the fertility of its land, and said
by common report to be the city of
the magicians, who were sent for
thence by Pharaoh.”
Enough could be seen of its remains
at the beginning of the present century
to show that it was a large and
important city, filled with public
buildings worthy of the magnificence
and taste of its founder. The usefulness
of the limestone, of which they
were constructed, for modern building
purposes has been the cause of these
comparatively modern ruins having
disappeared, while others of far more
ancient date, whose material was
granite or other hard stone, are still
in existence.
Antinoë was the capital of a nome,
called after it the Antinoïte, to which
Ptolemy says the two Oases were
attached. This was one of the new
provinces or departments of Egypt,
added at a late period, when Egypt
was under the rule of the Romans,
and Heptanomis was then condemned
to signify, or at least to contain, 8
nomes.
(W.) At Roda , 11 m. (Rly. Stat.),
opposite the remains of Antinoë, is
one of the largest sugar factories on
the Nile, well worthy a visit. Close
to them is a palace of the Khedive.
The river again makes a great
bend, and reaches on the same bank
Byadeeyeh, a village inhabited by
Copts.
(E.) A short distance to the southward
of Antinoë are some crude-brick
ruins called Medeeneh, “the City;”
probably from the village having succeeded
to, or being peopled from,
Antinoë. The modern peasants believe
them to be ancient. They
appear to be wholly of Christian
time; and though now deserted, the
houses in many parts are nearly
entire. Beyond these again is a
modern Christian village called Ed-Dayr,
or Dayr Aboo Honnes, “the
Convent of Father John;” and near
the summit of the hill behind it, and

to the N. of the ravine, is a very
ancient church or chapel, in one of
the extensive quarries with which it
is honeycombed. On the walls are
painted several subjects from the
New Testament, as Herod (HPWTHC)
ordering the slaughter of the Innocents,
the Flight into Egypt. Elisabeth
(“Elissa”) and Zacharias, and
on the side wall numerous saints,
with their names written over them.
In an adjoining chapel in the same
quarry are the marriage in Cana (in
which the Saviour uses a wand while
turning the water into wine); the
raising of Lazarus (treated in the
same way as on a tomb of one of the
exarchs at Ravenna); the meeting of
Mary and Elizabeth; and other subjects.
They are of a better hand
than those of the other chapel, though
of the same date. At the entrance is
an inscription in Coptic, which (like
others lower down the hill) appears
to have the date of one of the Indictons.
Some of the saints here represented
are (like “St. Damianus”) of
the 6th century, but the chapels were
probably made long before. From
not having been altered by later
occupants, they have an interest
which the underground church at
Aboo Honnes itself has ceased to
have, though it has the reputation
of dating from the time of the Empress
Helena, the mother of Constantino.
On the same hill are the remains of
a tablet, apparently of the XVIIIth
Dynasty, and report speaks of another
with the name of Amenhotep III.
Little more than a mile farther is
another convent, or Christian village,
called Ed-Dayr en-Nakhl , “of the
Palm-tree,” close to which is the
burial-ground, with a church.
(E.) Tomb of the Colossus on a Sledge.
—This grotto is at the left hand of the
ravine, behind the convent and village
of Dayr en-Nakhl, near the top of the
hill, and a little way to the right of a
sort of road, which is seen from below
running upon the upper part of the
hill-side. The following are the bearings,
by compass, of the principal
objects from its entrance:—Antinoë
332 1/2°; Reramoon 276° (or 6° N. of
W.): Dayr en-Nakhl 288°, 3/4 of a
mile; and el-Bersheh 236°, 2 miles.
In the grotto is one of the most
interesting subjects found in any of
the Egyptian tombs. It represents a
Colossus on a sledge, which a number
of men are dragging with ropes: and
is one of the few paintings that throw
any light on the method employed by
the Egyptians for moving weights.
Though it is the statue of the person
of the tomb, it does not follow that it
was hewn in this hill: and it merely
commemorates an event that happened
during his lifetime, like the fowling
scenes and other subjects connected
with his amusements. But the consequence
of this individual, Thothhotep,
is fully shown, not only by the
fact of his having the honour of a
colossal statue, but by the employment
of so many foreign captives in
moving it; and an important proof is
obtained by the last-mentioned circumstance
of the conquests of the
Egyptians over an Asiatic people at
the early period of Amenemhat II.
and Osirtasen II., in whose reigns he
lived. He was a person of distinction
in the military caste: he is styled in
the hieroglyphics “the king's friend:”
and one of his children was named
Osirtasen, after the king. One hundred
and seventy-two men, in 4 rows
of 43 each, pull the ropes attached to
a ring in front of the sledge; and a
liquid, perhaps grease, or water, is
poured from a vase by a person standing
on the pedestal of the statue, in
order to facilitate its progress as it
slides on the ground, which was probably covered with a bed of planks,
though they are not indicated in the
picture.
Some of the persons engaged in this
laborious duty appear to be Egyptians;
others are foreign slaves, who are clad
in the costume of their country; and
behind the statue are 4 rows of men,
in all 12 in number, representing
either the architects and masons, or
those who had an employment about
the place where the statue was to be
conveyed. Below are others, carrying
vases, apparently of water, and some

machinery connected with the transport
of the statue, followed by taskmasters
with their wands of office. On
the knee of the figure stands a man
who clasps his hands to the measured
cadence of a song, to mark the time and
ensure their simultaneous draught;
for it is evident that, in order that the
whole power might be applied at the
same instant, a sign of this kind was
necessary; and the custom of singing
at their work was common to every
occupation in Egypt, as it now is in
that country, in India, and many other
places.
The height of the statue appears to
have been about 24 ft., including the
pedestal; and it is stated, in the line
of hieroglyphics behind the picture, to
be “13 cubits,” or 22-370 ft. It was
bound to the sledge by double ropes,
tightened by means of long pegs inserted
between them and twisted round
until they were completely braced;
and, to prevent injury from the friction
of the ropes, a compress of leather,
lead, or other substance was introduced
between them and the stone.
Before the figure a priestly scribe is
presenting incense in honour of the
person it represents; and at the top
of the picture are seven companies of
men marching in an opposite direction.
They are probably the reliefs
for dragging the statue. Beyond are
men slaying an ox and bringing the
joints of meat before the door of the
building to which the statue was to
be conveyed; and below this the
person of the tomb is seated under a
canopy. Boats, and other subjects,
are figured under the compartment of
the colossus; and on the opposite
wall are an agricultural scene, potters,
a garden with a vineyard, and women
working in thread. The last subject
is remarkable for a new kind of
loom, and the mode of reeling off
thread from balls turning in a case.
On the end wall, to the left of the
niche, are some fish well drawn, with
the colours in a good state of preservation.
Among other subjects in this tomb
are the ceremony of pouring a liquid
from a vase (probably ointment) over
the deceased; sprinkling the ground
before him as he walks; the bearing of
offerings; fishing and fowling scenes;
and on the outside a chase, and other
spirited sculptures. Unfortunately a
great portion of the roof and walls has
fallen in, and the paintings have been
much injured, besides being defaced
in many places by the mistaken piety
of the Copts, who have drawn numerous
dark red crosses on the bodies of
the figures, and over various parts of
these interesting subjects.
Remains of sculpture may be found
in a neighbouring tomb, and in a
quarry beyond (on the same side of
the ravine or valley) is a tablet in the
rock, bearing the date of the 33rd year
of Thothmes III.
There are also some tombs along
the face of the hill on the other side
of the ravine, though they are of little
consequence. But they are very old;
and in one is the name of Pepi.
In the ravine, about 1/2 a mile from
the mouth, on the right-hand side,
are some large limestone quarries,
with a few royal ovals and inscriptions
in enchorial written with red
ochre, like those in the quarries of
Masárah.
(W.) Nearly opposite Ed-Dayr en-Nakhl
is Raramoon, some distance
inland from which is
Oshmoonayn, which occupies the
site of Hermopolis Magna. The
modern name is derived from the
Coptic Shmoun B, or the “two eights,”
and the prefix O or E is added for
euphony, from the hostility of Arabic
against all words beginning with an
S or Sh, followed by a consonant.
The Arabs pretend that it was called
after Oshmoon, the son of Misr, or
Misraim. It is called Uon in hieroglyphic
texts.
Hermopolis was a city of great antiquity,
and it was the capital of one
of the early nomes of Egypt. It derived
its Greek appellation from the
worship of Thoth, the god who presided
there, and who was supposed to
answer to Hermes, or Mercury. He
was the patron of letters, the scribe
of Heaven, and the same as the Moon;
his office was not less important in

imparting intellectual gifts from the
Deity to man, than in superintending
the final judgment of the soul, and
in recording the virtuous actions of
the dead when admitted to the regions
of eternal happiness. The modern
town stands on the southern extremity
of the mounds, which are of great
extent; and objects of antiquity are
occasionally found by the peasants
while removing the nitre.
The tombs of the ancient city lie
at the base of the Libyan hills to
the westward, where numerous ibis-mummies
have been buried, many of
which are found deposited in small
cases, and perfectly preserved. The
cynocephalus ape is also met with, embalmed
and buried in the same consecrated
spot. It is here that Ibeum
or the Nhip (of the Copts), probably
stood; for it is evident that the position
given it in the Itinerary of Antoninus
is incorrect: and Ibeum, the
burying-place of the sacred birds of
Hermopolis, could not have been 24 m.
distant to the N. of that city. Not
Jar from these tombs is a curious
sculptured stela, on the nummulite
rock of Gebel Toóna, representing the
king Amenhotep IV. or Khoo-en Aten,
with his queen, worshipping the Sun,
which darts forth rays terminating in
human hands; a subject similar to
those in the grottos of Tel el-Amarna.
They are accompanied by two of their
daughters, holding sistra. Below the
figures are between 20 and 30 lines
of hieroglyphics much defaced; and
near it are two headless statues supporting
a sort of tablet, with three
daughters of the king on the side
in intaglio. Beyond are two other
statues, and at the side of this, as
of the other group, are two small
mutilated figures.
Several years ago a peasant discovered
a large sum of money buried
in the ground near this spot, which
had been concealed there by one of the
Memlooks in their retreat, after being
defeated by Mohammed Ali, the year
before the massacre in the citadel.
This discovery became the talk of the
whole neighbourhood, and confirmed
the popular belief in the existence of
the kenz, or “treasures,” supposed to
be buried near ancient ruins.
(W.) From Byadeeyeh to this part
of the mountain is a ride of about
3 1/2 hrs. on donkeys, at a quick walk;
and Oshmoonáyn is a little more than
half-way from Byadeeyeh to the Bahr
Yoosef, which in March has very little
water. There is a town not far off.
called Toona. or Toona el-Gebel (“of
the Mountain”): in Coptic, Thôni.
Another, called Daróot-Oshmóon, or,
Daroot en Nakhl (“of the Palms “), has
the usual mounds of old towns, but no
remains in stone. It stands on the E.
bank of the Bahr Yoosef, and from its
name and position, probably occupies
the site of the Hermopolitana Phylace
(), as Daroot esh-Shereéf does
that of the Theban castle. It is the
Terót Schmoun of the Copts.
Abooseer, the Pousiri of the Coptic
MSS., was on the W. of the Bahr
Yoosef, near the Libyan hills.
(W.) Mellawee (Rly. Stat.), 6 m.,
claims the rank of a town (bender), and
has a market, held every Sunday.
Its mounds probably mark the site of
an ancient town.
(E.) A little higher up the river
at the projecting corner of the mountains
is a place called Sheykh Said,
behind and to the northward of which
are several grottos and modern quarries.
Some have the usual agricultural
and other scenes, and the various
subjects common to tombs. In two
of them is the name of Pepi in a
square; and another has two ovals
together, one of Shoofoo (Suphis, or
Cheops), the other of Aseskef. In
others are specimens of the false doors
and architectural ornaments found at
the tombs near the pyramids, and
some figures in relief. Osiris is here
frequently styled “Lord of the land
of Tat,” or “Tot,” which is expressed
by the emblem of stability. Before
several of the grottos are crude-brick
walls, built when inhabited by the
Christians, who converted one of them
into a church, cutting a circular niche
into the rock opposite the entrance.
The road passed by a stone quarry at
the top of the hills and then descended
into a valley coming from

the eastward, and opening upon the
level plain. Here it joined an old
road of considerable breadth, which
ran in a southerly direction behind
the town, whose extensive mounds lie
to the S. of the modern village of Tel
el-Amarna.
On the summit of the same hills is
a large limestone quarry, in which is
a bed of oriental alabaster, from 3 to
6 ft. thick, which, like the quarry, was
long worked by the ancients. A road
10 paces broad, cut in the rock, leads
into the quarry, and on the right side
are small niches, once apparently
holding tablets or inscriptions.
(E.) Hadji Kandeel, 7 m. This is
the best place to disembark at for
paying a visit to the
Grottos of Tel el-Amarna, about
4 1/4 m. distant from the river. It is not
always easy to obtain donkeys, and
notice should be sent by one of the
sailors, the night before, to the neighbouring
villages.
These grottos belong to a very
obscure period of the XVIIIth Dynasty,
when, as M. Mariette conjectures,
the Egyptian religion, under
the influence of a piously mad king,
went through a curious stage of
schism. They are the burial-places
of functionaries of the court of Amenhotep
IV. and his immediate successors.
This Amenhotep IV., acording
to M. Mariette, substituted for Ammon
or Amen, the God of Thebes, a Semitic
deity called Aten (the radiating
disk), and changed his own name to
Khoo-en-Aten, as found here in these
grottos. He also built the town,
whose extensive ruins are still seen
on the plain, and made it the capital
of his kingdom. These changes may
perhaps be attributed to the influence
of his mother, who was not an
Egyptian, and whose name appears
constantly on the walls of these grottos.
It is noticeable, too, that the
features of the people represented in
these sculptures are not Egyptian.
The roof of the largest tomb is supported
by 24 columns. It is nearly
filled up with sand, and the visitor
finds himself standing at the level of
the capitals, which are of great simplicity
and beauty, and support crossbeams
cut in the rock. The walls are
everywhere carved with the radiating
disk, and in all the tombs this is the
most prominent subject. In one place
the king and queen, frequently attended
by their children, are praying
to Aten, represented under the form
of the Sun with rays terminating
in human hands. In another the
monarch is borne on a rich throne
towards a temple; in another he is
mounted in his car, the queen following
in “the second chariot that he
had.” In some are military processions,
the troops marching with the
banners belonging to their respective
corps, and divided into light and heavy
armed infantry, as was customary with
the Egyptian army. Each soldier
bows down before the monarch, whose
tyranny seems to be hinted at by their
more than usual submissiveness. The
chariot corps and others also attend;
and the officers of infantry are distinguished
by their post at the head
of their men, and by the wand they
carry in their hand. In others are
the plans of houses, gardens, courts of
temples, cattle, and various subjects,
among which may be mentioned some
large boats, fastened to the bank of
the Nile by ropes and pegs, as at the
present day.
Some of the sculptures have been
left unfinished. The royal names, as
at Gebel Toona, have been invariably
defaced. There are usually five ovals
—two containing the prenomen and
nomen of the king; another the name
of the queen-mother; and two others,
which are of larger size, the titles of
the god.
Dr. Birch observes that the first appearance
of the worship of the Aten,
or solar disk, on the monuments, is in
the second year of Amenhotep III.,
whose queen Taii, seems to have introduced
it from Asia. Amenhotep IV.,
his son, who assumed the name of
Khoo-en-Aten “endeavoured to remove
the capital of the country to Tel
el-Amarna, and destroy all indications
of the worship of Amen-ra throughout
the country, by erasing the name,

which was subsequently restored on
the overthrow of the worship of the
disk. … After the fall of the family
of Khoo-en-Aten, the disk-worship was
abandoned.”
Several Greek inscriptions show
that the catacombs of Tel el-Amarna
were sufficiently admired by ancient
travellers to be considered worthy of
a visit, like those at Thebes; and one
of the writers expresses his surprise
at the “skill of the sacred masons,”
.
To the S. of the central tombs is a
natural grotto or fissure in the rock,
and several workings in a softer vein,
apparently in search of a yellow stone
which crosses it here and there; but
it is difficult to say for what use it
was required. Several small houses,
or huts of rough stone are built here,
as well as before the catacombs themselves,
probably the abodes of workmen.
In one of the tombs is a large
niche cut by the Christians, and in
another the figures of saints painted
on the walls; showing that these,
like other secluded spots, were once
occupied by anchorites and other
devout cynics, or served as places of
refuge from the persecutions exercised
at different times against the monks
of Egypt.
The extensive ruins of the old city
are seen in the plain near the river.
The temples were of sandstone, each
surrounded by a crude-brick enclosure,
like many of those at Thebes
and other places; but fragments of
masonry are all that now remain, the
stone edifices having been purposely
destroyed, and so completely as to
leave no vestige of their original
plans. Several of the crude-brick
houses are better preserved, and from
their substructions the form and distribution
of many of the rooms may
be easily traced. Indeed, they are
calculated to give a more correct idea
of the ground-plans of Egyptian
houses than any in the valley of the
Nile; and the extent of the city is
unequalled by any whose ruins remain,
except Thebes, being about 2 m. in
length, though of a comparatively
inconsiderable breadth.
(E.) Some distance to the southward,
and nearly in a line with the
village of Howárte, is a ravine in the
hills, where a large stela bearing a
long hieroglyphic inscription was
found; and to the S. of this, near
the road leading over the mountains
in rear of Gebel Aboofayda, are other
catacombs, containing similar sculptures,
and some ancient roads communicating
with the town.
(W.) Nearly opposite El-Howárte,
inland, is Tanoóf, whose lofty mounds
mark the site of Tanis-Superior, in
Coptic, Thôni. It has no ruins. A
short distance to the W. of it runs
the Bahr Yoosef, or Menhi, which
conveys the water of the Nile to the
interior of the western plain, passing
by Behnesa, and thence by a lateral
branch into the Fayoom.
(W.) About 2 m. to the S. of
Tanoóf is Daroot esh-Shereéf, in Coptic
Terôt, which probably occupies the
site of the Thebaïca Phylace (),
or Theban castle; a fortified place
at the frontier of the Thebaïd, where
duties were levied on goods exported
from that part of the country to
Lower Egypt. Strabo tells us the
canal to Tanis passed by that castle;
and we may trace in the name Daroot
the word ourit, a “garrison” or
“guard.”
At Daroot are a few mounds and
some fragments of stone, but no ruins.
A few miles higher up the Nile is the
mouth of the Bahr Yoosef.
(E.) On the eastern bank are the
first Dôm-trees, called also Theban
palms, from being confined to the
Thebaïd. They are not found in
Lower Egypt, except in gardens, as
at Minieh and a few other places.
Their dry fibrous fruit, when ripe,
exactly resembles our ginger-bread in
flavour, and is eaten by the peasants.
It contains an extremely hard nut,
which has been used by the carpenters
of ancient and modern Egypt for
the socket of their drills; but which,
before the fruit ripens, is a horn-like
substance, and is eaten by the people
of Ethiopia. The growth of the tree
has this peculiarity, that the lower
part of the stem is single, find invariably

divides at a certain height
into two branches, each of these again
being bifurcated, always in two sets.
The head is covered with large fan-shaped
leaves, at the base of which
the fruit grows.
(E.) In the rocks above are some
quarries and small grottos, and just
beyond is Ed-Dayr el-Kossayr, inhabited
by Christians. This, perhaps,
marks the site of Pescla, or Pesla, of
the Itinerary, which was 24 Roman
m. to the S. of Antinoë. Professor
Sayce found some interesting monuments
at this spot. A winding road
leads into a large quarry, where there
is a sculptured stela of Rameses III.
The walls of the quarry have upon
them some Greek inscriptions, containing
the names of Nero, Caligula,
and Strabo. They appear to have
been inscribed by pilgrims to a shrine
of Aphrodite. The shrine was afterwards
replaced by a church.
(W.) Opposite El-Kossayr is the
village of Jephsehan. The river now
makes a considerable bend, and approaches
a fine precipitous range of
cliffs, which rise up sheer from the
water's edge.
(E.) Gebel Aboofayda, 17 m., is the
name of these bluffs which bound the
east bank of the river for some 10 or
12 miles. Sudden gusts of wind from
the mountain often render great precaution
necessary in sailing beneath
them, and many accidents have happened
in this part of the river. The
recesses in the rocks are the resort of
numerous cormorants and wild ducks;
but, being generally very timid, they
are not easily approached, and a single
shot disturbs them for a great distance.
The small mud-banks, and
the caverns just at the water's edge,
are a resort of the very few crocodiles
which may be met with so far north.
Few travellers are fortunate enough
to see them here; but in 1871, a very
large one, more than 14 ft. long, was
killed, after several hours' patient
watching, in a cleft of the cliff a few
feet above the water, by the Earl of
Ducie, and its body recovered and
skinned.
(E.) About a mile above El-Kossayr
is a small ancient town in the
mountain - pass; half-way between
which and El-Hareïb is Ebrás, a
retired recess in the mountain, with
a piece of cultivated land, having
palms and dôm-trees.
(E.) A short distance beyond are
some grottos, and about 2 m. farther
the ancient town called El-Hareïb
(“the Ruins “), with grottos and
tombs containing dog and cat mummies.
The town stood at the mouth
of a ravine, which after heavy rain
pours a stream of water through its
centre. Many of the walls are still
standing, and some of the arches
within the houses are well preserved.
It is, however, probable that they are
not of very ancient date, and many
may be of a late Roman or Christian
time. But the bricks are mostly
ancient, and the Christians may have
succeeded to the old town, vestiges of
which still remain amidst the later
buildings. On the S. side of the
ravine is a large crude-brick enclosure,
perhaps a fort; and near the river
are remains of masonry, apparently
part of an old quay. In some of the
walls the bricks, instead of being in
horizontal courses, are in curved lines,
like the enclosure of a temple at
Thebes, called Dayr el-Medeeneh.
Many of them are of considerable
height, and in some places the arched
windows remain, even of the upper
stories. In several of the grottos up
the ravine to the N.E. are found
human bones, and the mummied
bodies of dogs, jackals, cats, and apparently
of the wild cat. One of them
has the Egyptian cornice, and in
another are some enchorial inscriptions.
The ancient name of El-Hareïb
is uncertain. The Itinerary
mentions no place between Pesla and
Hieracon.
(W.) About 1 1/2 m. inland is Kossayah,
the ancient Cusæ, Chusæ, or
Chusis; in Coptic, Kôs-koo. According
to the Greeks, Venus Urania was
the deity of the place; and Ælian
reports that a sacred cow was there
worshipped, which is perfectly consistent
with the character of the Egyptian
Venus, of whom that animal was

an emblem. His words are, “it is a
small but elegant town in the Hermopolite
nome, where they worship
Venus, called Urania (the heavenly),
and also a cow.”
The difference between the low
and high Nile in this part of Egypt
is about 21 ft. judging from the highest
mark made by the water on the
cliffs of Gebel Aboofayda, which rise
abruptly from the river.
(E.) About 3 m. above El-Hareïb,
and beyond where the river turns
away from beneath the cliffs, is an
old convent called Dayr el-Bukkara
“of the Pulley.” The name is common
to many of these monastic
retreats, being derived from the custom
of barricading the doors and
raising everything they required by
a “pulley,” as at Dayr Antonios and
Dayr Bolos in the eastern desert.
Near the convent are the ruins of
another old town, and some sepulchral
grottos. A portion of the Gisr el
Agoós appears near this old town,
which may possibly lay claim to the
site of Hieracon, though the distances
in the Itinerary do not quite agree
with its position.
The Nile formerly ran beneath the
cliffs for some distance farther S., but
it has now left them and bends away
considerably to the W.
(W.) Between Daroot esh Shereéf
and Manfaloot, on the W. bank, is the
site of an old town, called in Coptic
Manlau, whose Arabic name, according
to the MSS., is Mowda-el Ashea;
and between this last and Mankabát
mention is made of Mantout, the successor
of a town of the same name, in
Coptic Manthoot. This last may signify
the “place of Thoth.”
(W.) Manfaloot, 11 1/2 m. (Rly. Stat.
Population 13,300. In Coptic Manbalot),
is a bender or market-town,
and a place of some importance. It
is of considerable size, with the usual
bazaar, and a market every Sunday,
at which meat and other things can
be more easily obtained than at other
times. It has a governor's palace,
and outside the walls are several
gardens.
There is reason to believe that an
old Egyptian town stood here in
former times, and Leo Africanus
speaks of its sculptured remains, and
the ruins of a building, apparently a
temple, near the river.
It is singular that no notice is taken
of it by Greek and Latin writers, and
we might suppose that the Arab geographer
was incorrect in his statement,
did not its mounds, and the mention
of its name in the list of places cited
in the Coptic MSS., prove it to have
been one of the cities of ancient
Egypt. Its modern name is evidently
taken from the Coptic, which M.
Champollion supposes to signify the
“place of wild asses;” but the modern
Egyptians, with their usual disposition
to connect everything with
persons mentioned in the Korán, have
decided it to be the “place of exile of
Lot.” Aboolfeda describes Manfaloot
“on the bank of the Nile,” but in
Pococke's time it stood a mile from
the river, which then ran nearer the
hills of Gebel Aboofayda. Since that
period the Nile has gradually encroached
on the western shore, and
every year threatens to wash the
town away. It had also then a
“bishop and about 200 Christians,
whose church was at Narach, some
distance off, in a spot where the common
people pretended that the Holy
Family lived until the death of
Herod.”
(E.) On the summit of the rocks of
Gebel Aboofayda, near their southern
end, are the caverns of Maabdeh,
where are the Crocodile Mummy Pits.
The entrance to them is through a
natural fissure in the rock at the top.
Besides the thousands of crocodile
mummies which fill the interior, there
are several human mummies, some
gilded from head to foot, and others
less richly decorated. These caverns
have never been thoroughly explored,
and much, no doubt, yet remains to
be found in them. Here Mr. Harris
met with his interesting fragments of
Homer on papyrus. Candles, matches,
rope, and water should be taken, if it
is intended to penetrate into the caverns.
There is no danger attending
the attempt; but it is fatiguing, and

the confined space, and close, stifling
atmosphere may produce unpleasant
effects.
(W.) Beni Adee, a village at the edge
of the Libyan desert, was the headquarters
of the Nizám, or disciplined
troops of Mohammed Ali, previous to
their march for the Morea. It is a
point of departure for the Oasis of
Dákhleh.
(E.) In Wády Booa, at the southern
corner of Gebel Aboofayda, on the E.
bank, are some old grottos. Here
the road from Tel el-Amárna over
Gebel Aboofayda rejoins the valley of
the Nile, and those travelling by land
avoid a great détour by following this
mountain-pass. The grottos in the
corner of the hill behind Beni-Mohammed-el-Kofoor
have some interesting
paintings of agricultural and
other scenes of the early time of Pepi
and Neferkara of the VIth Dynasty.
Among the many subjects, in one of
them are some curious boats; in the
others also are trades and various
subjects; and the occupants of these
tombs appear all to have lived about
the time of Neferkara (Nephercheres),
and to have been governors of the
nome. At the Convent of Dayr el-Gibrawee,
or Maria Boktee, in the
plain below, Mr. Harris found a
Greek inscription of the time of Diocletian
and Maximian, and mentioning
the, dedication of the camp of the 1st
Prætorian cohort of Lusitanians to
Jupiter, Hercules, and Victory. On
the desert plain between the convent
and the hills (which are here called
Gebel Marag) is an ancient square
crude-brick fortress, which appears
from the coins found there to have
been used by the Romans, though
probably of earlier time; and at the
convent are some old mounds of a
town called Medeenet Sinsíni. The
paintings in the caves of Gebel Marag
are better preserved than those about
1/2 a mile to the N. of it. Some distance
to the S. is Tabbaneh. Near
Beni Mohammed el-Kofoor may be
the site of Passalon.
About 6 m. beyond, near the edge
of the cultivated land, behind Benóob
el-Hamam
, are vestiges of the Gisr-el-Agoós.
In the tract of land on the
border of the desert, near the road
going towards El-Wasta, is a crude-brick
ruin and the mounds of other
small towns, but without any stone
remains. Isium stood somewhere in
this direction, at one of the ruined
towns just mentioned.
(W.) The Nile makes several large
bends between Manfaloot and Asyoot
which often cause considerable delay.
At the end of one of them, and at a
short distance from the bank, is Mankabát,
the successor of an old town
called in Coptic Mankapôt, “the
place (manufactory?) of pots,” probably
from its manufactory of earthenware;
though, from the great quantity
made in every part of Egypt, it
seems unreasonable to apply this name
to any particular town. Like Keneh
and Ballaseh at the present day, it
may have been noted for a particular
kind.
(W.) Asyoot, 26 m. (Ely. Stat. 10
hrs. from Cairo). Population 31.600.
The capital of the province of the
same name and residence of a Mudeer,
247 1/2 m. from Cairo by water, and 229
m. by rail. It stands at some distance
from the river, and a small village on
the bank, called El-Hamra , claims
the honour of being its port. The
railway station is about midway between,
and close to it is a Post and
Telegraph Office. A branch of the
new Native Tribunals has been established
at Asyoot.
There is an excellent college and
schools belonging to the American
Mission which are well worth visiting
if time allows.
A large canal conducts the water
from the river during the inundation,
and leads it into the Bahr Yoosef,
which runs parallel to the Nile, and
supplies the Fayoom with water. This
channel has been greatly improved
during the last few years. There is
a magnificent embankment studded
with trees leading from the landing-place
to the town, the entrance into
which, through an old gateway and a
large courtyard, which forms part of
the governor's palace, is very picturesque.

Asyoot is of considerable
extent, with several bazaars, baths,
and some handsome mosques, one of
which is remarkable for its lofty minaret.
It is certainly the largest and best
built town of Upper Egypt; and its
position, with several gardens in the
vicinity, is greatly in its favour. In
the town are a few good houses belonging
to the ebni-beled, or townspeople,
but the generality are mere
hovels. The streets are narrow and
unpaved, as is the case in all the
towns of Egypt.
Some of the Bazaars are little inferior
to those of the metropolis, and
are well supplied; and the town is
divided into quarters, each closed by
a gate, as at Cairo. On Sunday a
market is held, which is frequented by
the people of the neighbouring villages;
and in the bazaars a great
supply of stuffs and various commodities
are always kept for sale, brought
from Cairo and other parts of Egypt,
as well as from Arabia and the upper
country. The red and black pottery
of Asyoot is celebrated and finds a
market all over Egypt; it can be purchased
here much cheaper than in
Cairo. The forms of some of the
vases made of this ware are of very
good design.
The public Baths, in the Bazaar,
are worth a visit. The pillars which
support the central dome are of
granite, and are probably taken from
some ancient building. The mountain
in the centre and the pavements are
of white marble. The whole edifice
dates from an early period in the
Arab conquest of Egypt.
Formerly the town was much frequented
by caravans from the interior
of Africa, especially from Darfoor, but
the trade with the Soodan has been
stopped since the rebellion of the
Mahdi. The consequent loss of
commerce has had a considerable
effect on the town. The principal
native industries are the manufacture
of articles in clay, indigo dyeing,
opium and cotton picking, &c.
Asyoot may be regarded as the
starting point of tho English expedition
to the Soodan in J884. The
whole of the stores for the army were
brought by railway from Alexandria
to this point and sent thence by
steamers and sailing boats. The 800
rowing boats, in which the English
troops went over the difficult parts of
the river south of Wády Haifa, were
also brought by railway to Asyoot
and placed in the Nile there. During
the time that the expedition was
going up and down, the railway
stations and wharves presented a busy
scene. Asyoot has succeeded to the
ancient Lycopolis , “the City of the
Wolves,” so called from the worship
of that animal, or of the deity to
whom it was sacred, the jackal-headed
Anubis, here called Tapheru, “the
watcher of the streets.” Wolves are
still occasionally seen in the neighbouring
mountain. The Coptic name
of the city. Siôout, is the same it bore
in ancient times, as is shown by the
hieroglyphics in the catacombs, where
it is written Ssout, the initial S being
doubled, as in Ssa, the Egyptian name
of Saïs. Aboolfeda says it should be
called in Arabic Osyoot; but this is
from the repugnance of that language
(in common with Spanish, French,
and many others) to an S followed by
another consonant, unless preceded
by a vowel. In the smaller caves and
excavated recesses of the rock in
various parts of this mountain the
remains of wolf-mummies are frequently
met with, which is perfectly
consistent with the fact of the wolf
having been the sacred animal of the
place, and with the name given to the
town by the Greeks. The coins of
the Lycopolite nome have also the
wolf on their reverse, with the word
“Lyco.”
Little now remains of the old town
except extensive mounds and a few
stone substructions, which are found
in digging for the foundations of
houses, or in cutting trenches on its
site.
Tombs and Grottoes.—The Libyan
chain advances considerably towards
the E. in this part; and in the projecting
corner of the mountain above
Aysoot are several grottos cut in the
limestone rock, the burial-places of

the inhabitants of Lycopolis. Though
not containing a great profusion of
sculpture, they are of considerable
interest from their antiquity, and
some have the names of very old
kings. The principal tomb is called
by the common appellation of Stabl
Antar
. Antar was an Arab chief,
whose legend is popular and whose
name figures in many other places.
It is of great size, and has an entrance-chamber
or porch, open to the
air, cut like the rest in the limestone
rock. On the right side of the
entrance is a long hieroglyphic inscription,
which tells us the name of
Hapzefa, a priest and grand functionary
under the XIIIth Dynasty.
It is important, as containing notices
of the intercalary days of the ancient
year. Two colossal figures of the
deceased are sculptured on the doorposts.
The ceiling of this catacomb
is vaulted, and ornamented with
very elegant devices, which might be
taken for Greek patterns if one did
not know that the ceiling was older
than Greek art. In an inner room are
sculptures representing men bringing
an ibex and various offerings; and at
the end a large figure of a man, and
others of women rather smaller, smelling
the lotus-flower, as was usual at
the festive meetings of the Egyptians.
It has several chambers, which once
served as dwelling-places for the
peasants, who have not improved
their appearance by blackening them
with smoke.
The tombs are arranged in successive
tiers at different elevations. They
may be visited according to their
position, and a road about 4 paces
broad leads up the hill. They are
very numerous, but many are without
sculpture, and some containing burnt
bones appear to have been occupied
by the Romans at a late period. Near
the middle of the ascent is some
crude-brick building; and a square
pit lined with burnt brick, very unusual,
except in Roman times, with a
tablet or stela above on the rock,
much defaced. Some of the small
pits are very narrow, scarcely broad
enough for a man, and they slope
gradually, as if to allow the coffins to
slide down into them. Sometimes a
tomb consists of a large chamber with
small niches or repositories for the
dead, and in the floor are the usual
mummy-pits.
In a tomb about half-way up the
hill is the name of Meri-ka-ra, of the
XIIIth Dynasty, who is only known
by this record, and some soldiers
carrying shields of enormous size,
differing both in this respect and a
little in their shape from the common
shield, but remarkable as being similar
to those mentioned by Xenophon
in speaking of the Egyptian troops in
the army of Crœsus. He says they
amounted to 130,000 men, “carrying
bucklers, which covered them from
head to foot, very long spears, and
swords called ” (shopsh), and
each phalanx was “formed of 10,000
men, 100 each way.” This tomb contains
biographical particulars of another
Tef-Ab, the son of Kheti,
“governor of the country of the
south,” and probably a relative of the
above-named priest. He received,
they tell us, orders from the king to
enlarge the sanctuary of Anubis or
Tapheru, “lord of Ssout.”
The tombs on this mountain, like
most others in Egypt, were once the
abode of the Christians, who retired
thither, either from persecution, or for
the sake of that solitude which suited
their austere habits; and it was perhaps
from one of them that John of
Lycopolis gave his oracular answer to
the embassy of Theodosius. The story
is thus related by Gibson: “Before
he performed any decisive resolution,
the pious emperor was anxious to discover
the will of Heaven; and as the
progress of Christianity had silenced
the oracles of Delphi and Dodona, he
consulted an Egyptian monk who possessed,
in the opinion of the age, the
gift of miracles and the knowledge
of futurity. Eutropius, one of the
favourite eunuchs of the palace of
Constantinople, embarked for Alexandria,
from whence he sailed up the
Nile as far as the city of Lycopolis,
or of Wolves, in the remote province
of Thebaïs. In the neighbourhood of

the city, and on the summit (side?) of
a lofty mountain, the holy John had
constructed with his own hand a
humble cell, in which he had dwelt
above 50 years, without opening his
door, without seeing the face of a
woman, and without tasting any food
that had been prepared by fire or any
human art. Five days of the week
he spent in prayer and meditation,
but on Saturdays and Sundays he
regularly opened a small window, and
gave audience to the crowd of suppliants
who successively flowed from
every part of the Christian world.
The eunuch of Theodosius approached
the window with respectful steps, proposed
his questions concerning the
event of the civil war, and soon
returned with a favourable oracle,
which animated the courage of the
emperor by the assurance of a bloody
but infallible victory.”
On the N. side of the projecting
corner of the mountain are some limestone-quarries,
and a few uninteresting grottos.
The View from these hills over the
town of Asyoot and the green plain in
the early part of the year is very
pretty, the prettiest perhaps to be
seen in Egypt. The brightness of
the green is perfectly dazzling, and
of a tint such as probably can be seen
nowhere else in the world; it stretches
away too for miles on either side,
“unbroken,” as Dean Stanley so graphically
says, “save by the mud
villages which here and there lie in
the midst of the verdure, like the marks
of a soiled foot on a rich carpet.”
Immediately below the hills on the
S. side is the modern cemetery. The
tombs are arranged with considerable
taste, and have a neat and pleasing
appearance. On going to them from
the town you pass along a raised
dyke, with a bridge over a canal that
skirts the cultivated land. The latter
answers the same purpose as the Bahr
Yoosef in central Egypt in carrying
the water of the inundation to the
portion of the plain most distant from
the river; and in one of the ponds
between the river and the town, fed
by a lateral canal, the “very convenient”
spring mentioned by Michaelis
is to be looked for, the credit of
which newly-married brides may often
be greatly interested in maintaining.
On the southern corner of the mountain,
immediately above the village of
Dronka, is a large bed of alabaster
lying upon the limestone rock, but not
sufficiently compact to admit of its
being quarried for use.
Near this is a tomb of the XIIIth
Dynasty with pictures of chariot-racing
on the walls. Further to the
south is a Coptic monastery, built
over some tombs, one of which belongs
to the XIIIth Dynasty.
Pliny seems to think that these hills
formed the northern boundary of the
Thebaïd, since he says, “in Libyco
Lycon,ubi montes finiunt Thebaïdem.”
But this could not be so, as it extended
much farther N. to the Thebaïca
Phylace.
(W.) At Shodb are the mounds and
crude-brick remains of Hypsele, in
Coptic Shôtp, which gave its name to
one of the nomes of Egypt. Near to
Lycopolis was a fort called in Coptic
Tgeli, and the village of Paphor, in
the district of Shôtp, the sites of which
have yet to be identified. Other villages
beyond Shodb are Moosh and
Baroog.
(E.) El-Wasta , on the E. bank, is
probably the successor of Contra Lycopolis ,
but it has no remains. At the
bend of the river between Esh-Shuggub
and El-Guttéea, on the E. bank
is a sheykh's tomb, and some distance
from it, under the hills, is a ruin
apparently of Christian time. Kuteeyeh,
on the W. bank, abounds in sont
or Acacia Nilotica; and it is a good
place for purchasing charcoal, with
which it supplies Asyoot. At Matmar
are the mounds of an old town, by
some supposed to be Mouthis, a small
place to the N. of Anteeopolis. But
the distance of Matmar from Gow is
too much, and the position of Mouthis
given in the Itinerary requires it to
have been near Raáineh. Much sont
also grows near Matmar, which, like
that on the road to Abydus, may be
the remnant of one of the old groves

of Acanthus. At the N. of the
projecting corner of the mountain,
behind Matmar, is a road called
Derb Imow, which crosses this part
of the eastern chain of hills, and rejoins
the valley of the Nile by a
ravine near the grottos of Gow; and
another, called Nugb el-Hossayn, leads
from a little above Dayr Tassa, and
descends at the corner of the same
mountain a short way to the W. of the
same grottos. To the E. of Matmar
are quarries of the same Oriental
alabaster that abounds in these hills,
from which columns have been cut.
(E.) A little beyond Matmar is
Sherg Selin. It has no ruins, but,
from its name, it seems to lay claim to
the site of Selinon, though the Itinerary
places Selinon half-way between
Anteeopolis and Panopolis. Perhaps
in this place we should read Passalon
for Selinon. At El-Khowábid are some
mounds, but no ruins; and in the
hills to the N.E. are some limestone
quarries. About a mile farther to the
S.E. are some grottos, at the projecting
corner of the hills, and others
behind the Dayr Tassa.
(W.) Abooteéy, 15 m., stands on the
site of an ancient town on the W.
bank; and Wansleb mentions Sidfeh
(or Sitfeh) as the successor of another,
about 5 m. to the S. of it. Abooteég
is the Abutis of Latin writers, the
Apothyké or Tapothyké of the Copts:
which, as M. Champollion suggests, is
very probably a Greek word signifying
“granary,” adopted by the Copts.
Aboolfeda says that in his time the
poppy was much cultivated in the
vicinity, and it still continues to be
grown there. The old mounds outside
the town locally known as Kom Ahleh,
have been gradually removed, and no
traces now remain. Abooteég, like
most towns inhabited by a majority of
Copts, is particularly clean and neat,
and contains some good shops. From
Abooteég the course of the river northwards
formerly lay more inland to the
W. This is consistent with the position
of Selinon, on the opposite bank,
to which a canal is said to have led
from the Nile.
(W.) Koos-kam, in Coptic Kos-kam,
stands on the W. bank, between
Abooteèg and Gow el-Gharbeeyeh.
It was called Apollinis Minor Civitas,
to distinguish it from Apollinopolis
Magna and Parva, now Edfoo and
Koos.
(E.) Behind El-Bedáreh, on the E.
bank, are some unsculptured caves of
early time with round lintels; and behind
Kom Ahmar, a little farther N.,
are others with slight remains of
rude painting; and one to the N.
of these has a few hieroglyphics over
the entrance. The rest are without
sculpture, including those behind the
Dayr Tassa already mentioned.
(E.) Raáineh, a pretty-looking village
with groves of palm-trees, and
many pigeon-towers. In the hill behind,
and close to Nesleh Raáineh,
are some very old tombs hewn in the
rock, of the same age as those about
the pyramids; they have the same
kind of subjects, and the same round
lintels; the boats have the old double
mast; and the capitals, in the form of
a full-blown lotus, are represented in
the house as in the tomb of trades
behind the Great Pyramid. In the
largest tomb, which is about 40 ft.
in length, are several statues in high
relief, and the roof is cut to represent
palm-tree beams. Farther to the S.,
between these and the projecting
corner of the mountain below Gow,
is a large quarry, and at its mouth
are the mounds of an old town, the
bricks of which bear the name of
Amenhotep III. Here or at Raáineh
was the site of Muthis. Round the
mountain-point, which then curves inwards
to the E., are some old, and
some later, grottos, the former of the
same date as those of Asyoot, the
others of the age of the Romans, and
perhaps painted by them, being ornamented
with arabesques and devices
of that time. The subjects, however,
are Egyptian, and funereal. Near
them are some crude-brick remains.
In another large quarry, some distance
beyond these to the eastward,
are two singular representations of the
giant-god Anteeus, accompanied by
Nephthys, holding in his left hand a
spear and an oryx. In one of these

he has rays round his head like
the Sun, and before him is a priest
making offerings to him. Over the
other altar is an enchorial inscription.
These paintings are of the same late
time as the Roman-Egyptian tombs
just mentioned.
(E.) Gow el-Kebeér, 141/2 m., in
Coptic Tkôou, is the ancient Anteeopolis.
The remains of the temple of
Anteecus have now wholly disappeared.
The last remaining column of the
temple, mentioned by Dr. Richardson,
was carried away by the river in 1821,
which Mr. Legh says, as early as
1813, threatened “to wash the whole
away.” At the time he visited it the
portico was still standing, and much
in the same state as when seen by
Norden and Pocooke in 1737. Mr.
Hamilton found the Greek inscription
on the frieze of the portico in a very
imperfect state, the stones having
been broken into six separate pieces;
but sufficient remained to show that
“King Ptolemy, the son of Ptolemy
and Cleopatra, gods Epiphanes, Eucharistes,
and queen Cleopatra, the
sister of the king, gods Philometores,
erected the (Pro)naos to Anteeus
and the contemplar gods;” and that
“the emperors, the Caesars, Aurellii,
Antonius (and Varus) repaired the
roof.”
Inland from Gow el-Kebeér is a
large lake, where capital goose and
duck shooting may be had in the
early part of the year: but the birds
are very difficult of approach, and if
the traveller has a small English boat
with him, he should have it carried to
the lake.
Near Anteeopolis the fabulous battle
between Horus and Typhon was reputed
to have taken place, which
ended in the defeat of the latter, who
had assumed the form of a crocodile;
and here Antaeus is said to have been
killed by Hercules in the time of
Osiris. Of these two fables we may
in vain endeavour to discover the
origin or the meaning; but it is probable
that the story of Antaeus is a
Greek-perversion of some legend, as
his name is corrupted from that of
one of the ancient gods of the
Egyptian Pantheon. He was probably
a foreign deity; as were the bearded
gods of battles of early times, and Anta
(Annaitis?) the goddess of battles,
whose name so nearly resembles that
of Antaeus. Antaeopolis was in later
times a bishop's see.
(W.) Gow el-Gharbeeyeh, on the
opposite bank, has no ruins. It was
the centre of an insurrection in March,
1865, which however was promptly
quelled, the rebels being shot and
hanged, and several villages destroyed.
(W.) At Mishte, Shabeka, and
Sheykh Shenedee, are the mounds of
old towns; and inland, opposite Gebel
Sheykh Hereédee is
(W.) Tahtah, 12 1/2 m., a large town
of 13,800 inhabitants, distinguished
from afar by its extensive mounds,
which probably mark the site of the
ancient Hesopis. Its landing-place,
or Sahel, is at the bend of the river,
opposite Sheykh Hereédee. It has
several mosques and a Christian
church. There are many Copts here,
and the town is one of the neatest on
the Nile. There are good provision
and wine shops, and travellers may
be able to replenish their stores at
this point in the voyage. In a Greek
shop English bottled ale may be had.
The land hereabouts produces abundant
crops of corn, owing to the lowness
of the level, and the consequent
length of time that the water of the
inundation remains upon its surface:
and an important cattle-market is held
outside the town.
(E.) Gebel Sheykh Hereédee is a projecting
part of the eastern chain of
hills, well known for the superstitious
belief attached to a serpent, reputed
to have lived there for ages, and
to have the power of removing every
kind of complaint: and many miraculous
cures, that might have offended
Jupiter, are attributed to this worthy
successor of the emblem of Aesulapius.
It is, perhaps, to the asp, the
symbol of Kneph, or of the good genius,
that this serpent has succeeded.
Here, as in all parts of the Nile
where the mountains come close to
the river, it is necessary to be very
careful in sailing up-stream if the

wind is at all strong, as very violent
gusts come down from the hills; and
what with the huge lateen sail, little
or no ballast, and no great readiness
in answering the helm, a dahabeeyeh
is very apt to be most unpleasantly
unsteady.
(E.) Towards the southern end of
the mountain, and on its western face,
are some caves, one of which has a
tablet of a Ptolemaic king offering to
Khem, Horus, and Isis (?), and in the
face of the rock to the S. of this are
remains of an old tomb of the Pyramid
period. Farther to the S. are other
quarries; and beyond them, towards
the S. end of this face of it, is another
quarry, before which are some brick
ruins of Christian time. In this quarry
are some tablets; one of which has
the name of a Ptolemy (probably Auletes),
and beneath it a long enchorial
inscription. On the road which runs
at the base of the mountain is a mutilated
statue of a man clad in the
Roman toga.
Passalon or Passalus is supposed to
have stood near here. It is placed by
Ptolemy in the nome of Antaeopolis;
and the boundary of the districts of
Gow and Ekhmeem, which is still at
Raáineh, may mark that of the old
Antaeopolite and Panopolite nomes.
This Raáineh is remarkable for its
lofty pigeon-houses, which have the
appearance as well as the name, of
“towers” (boorg), a style of building
commonly met with in Upper
Egypt.
During the inundation the Nile
rises to the narrow path at the base
of the mountain, so as to render it
scarcely passable for camels near the
southern extremity. Round this projecting
point to the eastward are a
few grottos without sculpture.
(W.) At Benoweét, on the opposite
bank, to the W. of Marágha, are remains
of a temple, with the name of
Ptolemy Alexander; and at Basóna,
about 11/2m. S. of Marágha, are some
limestone blocks, one with the name
of a Ptolemy or a Cæsar; another of
larger dimensions with the figure of
a king (apparently a Ptolemy) offering
to Khem, Isis, and other deities.
The chief deity here and at Benoweét
was probably Khem, the local deity of
Ekhmeem, or Chemmis.
(E.) At Fow, in Coptic Phbóou-Tgeli,
are the mounds of an ancient
town. It was distinguished from
another Fow, beyond Chênoboscion,
which the Greeks called Bopos, by
the adjunct Tgeli, signifying a “fort.”
By its position in the level plain between
the mountains and the Nile it
commanded the road from Antæopolis
to Chemmis.
(E.) In the mountains behind Ketkætee
are one large, and numerous
small grottos (without sculpture),
and the bodies appear to be preserved
without bitumen. There are others
again behind Fow; and at the corner
of the mountain, to the N. of Ekhmeem,
are some of Roman time.
(W.) Itfoo lies inland. It was the
ancient Aphroditopolis , in Coptic Atbô
or Thbô. About 3/4 m. to the S.W. of
Itfoo is the Red Monastery; and 2 1/4 m.
to the S.S.E. is the White Monastery.
The best road to them is from Soohág,
which stands near the end of the reach
of the river below Ekhmeem.
(W.) Soohág, 26 miles, 317 miles
from Cairo; the capital of the province
of Girgeh, and a well-built and
important town of 8700 inhabitants,
with some good houses and mosques, a
well supplied bazaar and Greek shops.
Its mounds show it to have succeeded
to an old town, but there are no stone
remains.
Soohág has given its name to a
large canal called Toora, Khaleég, or
Moie-t-Soohág, that takes the water
of the Nile into the interior during
the inundation, and is similar in size
and purport to the Bahr Yoosef. It
is this canal which irrigates the
plain about Asyoot, and the lands to
the S. of Daroot esh-Shereef, assisted
here and there by lateral canals from
the river. Its entrance is well constructed,
being lined with hewn stone.
A gisr, or raised dyke, forms the
usual communication, during the high
Nile, with the villages in the interior;
and here and there, on the

way to Itfoo and the two monasteries,
you pass other smaller canals, all
which, as well as the Moie-t-Soohág,
are without water in summer. Several
small ponds, also dry at this season,
are passed on the way; and at the
edge of the cultivated land the peasants
sink wells for artificial irrigation:
the water of the Nile filtering
through the soil to any distance from
the banks, and affording a constant
supply at the then level of the river.
In the winter, when the water still remains
in the ponds, very good duck-shooting
may be had on the way to
the monasteries. “The ornithologist
should make the excursion if he is
desirous of obtaining the Egyptian
eagle owl (Bubo ascalaphus), or the
brown-necked raven (Corvus umbrinus).”
—Shelley.
(W) The White Monastery or Convent
(Dayr el-ábiad), so called from
the stone of which it is built, but
better known by the name of Amba-Shenóodeh,
stands on the edge of the
desert, and its inmates cultivate a
small portion of the land about it, in
the capacity of fellaheen. The monastery
is in fact only a Christian village,
being inhabited by women as well as
men, with their families. In former
times the monks probably lodged in
rooms over the colonnade, as the holes
for rafters in the walls appear to show,
but these people now live in the
lower part, which once formed the
aisles of the church. They have
adopted the same precaution as their
brethren at Bibbeh, in order to secure
the building in turbulent times
against the assaults of the Moslems;
and their Christian patron, like St.
George of Bibbeh, is converted into a
Moslem sheykh, who commands the
respect of the credulous under the
appellation of Sheykh Aboo Shenóodeh.
The monastery is built of hewn
stones measuring about 3 ft. 3 in. by
1 ft. 3 in., many of which belonged to
ancient buildings of the neighbouring
town of Athribis. The summit of the
walls is crowned throughout by a
stone cornice, like that of Egyptian
temples, though without the torus,
which in Egyptian architecture separates
the cornice from the architrave,
or from the face of the wall. On
the exterior of the S. side are square
niches, once stuccoed, as was all the
building; and on the N. are small
windows, built up within the old
square niches, which are placed at intervals
along all the walls, except on
that side nearest the mountain which
has been added at a later time.
Six doors formerly led into the
interior, five of which have been closed
with masonry, leaving that alone on
the S. side, which is now the only
entrance. Over all the doors a projecting
wall of brickwork has been
built in order to strengthen them;
doubtless at a time when they were
threatened by an attack from the
Arabs or the Memlooks, on which
occasion even the solitary door now
open was closed, and protected in the
same manner. Near the S. door are
the fragments of red granite columns
and statues. From the walls project
blocks not unlike the gargoyles or
water-spouts of Egyptian temples, as
at Dendera and other places, though
there is no reason to suppose this was
ever a temple, even of late time. It
may, however, have derived the form
of its exterior from those edifices,
which the builders had been accustomed
to see in the country, while
the architectural details are Byzantine;
and, judging from the number of
columns and the style of the interior,
it seems to have been erected at a
time when Christianity was under the
special protection of the imperial government.
Pococke supposes it to be
of the time of the Empress Helena;
and the tradition among the monks
dates its foundation about 150 years
after her death. Over the door on the
desert side is a cornice ornamented
with Corinthian foliage, above which
is a stone with square dentils, both of
red granite; and over the door, at the
end of the entrance passage, is another
block of red granite with Doric
triglyphs and guttæ.
The area within, like our churches
and the old basilicas, consists of a
nave and side-aisles, separated from
each other by a row of about 14

columns, mostly of red granite, with
various capitals of a late time. One
of the Corinthian, and another of the
Ionic order, appear to be of a better
age. The total breadth of the building
inside is 78 ft. At the E. end is
the choir, consisting of 3 semicircular
apses, and before the central one is a
screen with some representations of
St. George. Here are several Coptic
inscriptions, in one of which may
be read the words “Athanasius the
Patriarch,” the rest being much defaced.
The half-domes of the apses
are painted with frescoes; the centre
one representing a large figure of the
Saviour seated on his throne with the
emblems of the 4 Evangelists at the
side of a sort of vesica that surrounds
him. The date of these subjects is
uncertain; but they are evidently
later than the building, its ornaments
being covered by the stucco on which
they are painted. There are several
Coptic inscriptions in the church, and
one in uncial Greek characters upon a
column to the 1. as you face the central
apse.
On three sides of this building, and
at a short distance from it, are the
remains of brickwork, of which the
outer wall was built; and perhaps
the present building was only the
church of a monastery formerly
attached to it.
Tradition reports that this convent
stands on the site of an Egyptian city
called Medeenet Atreeb, and the ruins
in its vicinity may be the remains of
an old town; but the remains of the
old Athribis or Crocodilopolis stand
about half an hour's ride to the southward,
where a ruined temple and
extensive mounds still mark its site
under the name of Medeenet Ashaysh.
In the midst of mounds of pottery
lie large blocks of limestone, 14 to
15 ft. long, by 3 and 5 ft. thick, the
remains of a temple 200 ft. by 175,
facing the S., and dedicated to the
lion-headed goddess Thriphis. Over
the door is a king offering to Thriphis,
Khem, and other deities, over whom
is the name of Ptolemy the Elder, son
of Auletes; and it is probable that the
foundation of the building is even of
a still earlier date. On a stone, at the
southern extremity of the ruins, which
covered the centre doorway or entrance
of the portico, are names arranged on
either side of a head of Athor, surmounted
by a globe containing the
mysterious eye, with two asps, wearing
the crowns of Upper and Lower
Egypt, the whole group being completed
by two sitting deities. Such
are the ornamental devices of cornices
and architraves on temples of the
time of the empire, as at Dendera and
other places. On the soffit of the
same were the ovals of Tiberius
Claudius Kaisaros (Cæsar) Germanicus
(?); and on the other side a Greek
inscription accompanied by the ovals
of Claudius Cæsar Germanicus.
On the face of the mountain about
half a mile W.S.W. 1/4 S. of the White
Convent are some rock-tombs, having
passages sloping in at an angle of
34° for lowering coffins. They have
scarcely any remains of hieroglyphics,
but are of very early date. The rock
here bears curious marks of running
water, and stalagmitic deposits.
About half a mile beyond the ruins
of Athribis are the quarries from
which the stone of the temple was
taken; and below are several small
grottoes that have served for tombs,
and were once furnished with doors,
secured, as usual, by a bolt or lock.
On the lintel of one of them is a Greek
inscription, saying that it was “the
sepulchre of Ermius, the son of Archibius.”
It has the Egyptian cornice
and torus. In the interior are cells,
and it contains the scattered residue
of burnt bones. Through one of its
side walls an entrance has been forced
into the adjoining tomb. The mountain
appears to have had the name in
Coptic of Ptoou-n-atrêpe, from the
neighbouring city.
The Red Convent (Dayr el-Ahmar),
so-called from the brick of which it is
built, but better known by the name
of Amba Bishoi, lies to the N.N.W.
It is rather older than the White
Convent; but they are probably both
of a later date than the Empress
Helena. Its founder, according to
Wansleb, was a penitent robber, whose

club was kept by the monks as a
memorial of his wicked course of life.
It is built in the same style as the
other convent; its long flat walls surmounted
by the Egyptian cornice,
which is also of stone. Its small
brick windows are pointed and slightly
stilted, and are in their construction
very like those in the convents of Old
Cairo, added by the early Christians,
and in the mosque of Amer. The
northern entrance (long since closed)
is ornamented with devices and
capitals of Byzantine time, elaborately
sculptured. What is now the church
was perhaps originally only the E.
end of it, the outer part then forming
the nave and aisles of this basilica-shaped
building. The church consists
of a transverse corridor, and a central
and two side apses; and on each
half dome is painted a fresco, as at the
White Convent. Like other early
Christian churches, it does not stand
E. and W., but 67° E. of N., and that
of the White Convent 59° E. of N.,
by compass.
In the face of the hill, 1 1/4 m. S.W.
1/4 W. from the Red Convent, is a rock-tomb,
with a few vestiges of sculptures.
It is called Magharah Kafes.
An ancient road leads towards it from
near the convent.
(E.) Ekhmeem stands at a short
distance from the river-bank, 2 or 3 m.
above Soohág. It is a large town of
18,800 inhabitants, with a bazaar,
and a market-day every Wednesday.
Here are made the check cotton
shawls with silk fringes, so often worn
by the Nile boatmen. The manufacture,
which is carried on in the private
houses, should be inspected. Ekhmeem
occupies the site of Chemmis or Panopolis ,
in Coptic Chmim or Shmim, formerly
one of the most considerable
cities of the Thebaïd. There is a
Franciscan convent school here and
two Coptic churches. A great number
of the inhabitants are Christians.
It was at Ekhmeem that Nestorius,
after 16 years' exile, ended his days
and was buried, in the middle of the
5th century.
On the side of the town farthest from
the river, beyond the present walls,
are the remains of some of the ancient
buildings. A long inscription, bearing
the date of the 12th year of the
Emperor Trajanus Germanicus Dacicus,
points out the site of the Temple
of Pan; who, as we learn from the
dedication, shares with Thriphis the
honours of the sanctuary. We also
ascertain another very important fact
from this inscription, that the deity,
who has been called Priapus and
Mendes, is in reality the Pan of
Egypt, his figure being represented on
the same face of the stone with the
dedication: which accords very well
with the description of the deity of
Panopolis, given by Stephanus of
Byzantium. On the soffit is a circle
divided into 12 compartments, probably
astronomical; but these, as
well as the figures on the neighbouring
block, are nearly all defaced.
These are, doubtless, the remains of
the fine temple mentioned by Aboolfeda,
which he reckons among the
most remarkable in Egypt, as well for
the size of the stones used in its construction,
as for the profusion of subjects
sculptured upon them.
Vestiges of other ruins are met with
some distance beyond, which may
probably have belonged to the temple
of Perseus; but a few imperfect sculptures
are all that now remain, and it
is with difficulty we can trace on its
scattered fragments the name of
Ptolemy, the son of Auletes, and that
of the Emperor Domitian. There are
also the names of Thothmes III. and
of a queen, probably of one of the late
Pharaohs. In the hieroglyphic texts
Ekhmeem is called “Ap, the abode
of Khem,” who in other inscriptions
is entitled the master of Ap. Ap was
the chief city of the ninth nome of
Ancient Egypt.
According to Strabo, Panopolis was
a very ancient city, and the inhabitants
were famous as linen manufacturers
and workers in stone; nor
were they, if we may believe Herodotus,
so much prejudiced against the
manners of the Greeks as the rest of
the Egyptians. The people of Chemmis,

he says, are the only Egyptians
who are not remarkable “for their
abhorrence of Greek customs. Chemmis
is a large city of the Thebaïd,
near Neapolis, where there is a temple
of Perseus, the son of Danaë. This
temple is of a square form, and surrounded
by palm-trees. It has stone
propyla of considerable size, upon
which are two large statues; and
within the sacred circuit stands the
sanctuary, having in it an image of
Perseus. For the Chemmites say
that Perseus has often appeared in
their country,” &c.
The notion of the great antiquity of
Panopolis seems to have been traditionally
maintained even to the time
of the Moslems; and Leo Africanus
considers it “the oldest city of all
Egypt,” having, as he supposes,
“been founded by Ekhmeem, the son
of Misraim, the offspring of Cush, the
son of Ham.” It seems to have
suffered much at the period of the
Arab conquest; and to such an extent
was the fury of the invaders carried
against this devoted city, that
“nothing was left of its buildings but
their foundations and ruined walls;”
and all the columns and stones of any
size were carried to the other side of
the river, and used in the embellishment
of Mensheeyeh.
In Pococke's time Ekhmeem was
the residence of a powerful chief, who
took from it the title of eméer or
prince of Ekhmeem. His family,
which was originally from Barbary,
established itself here three or four
generations before, and obtained from
the Sultan the government of this
part of the country, upon condition
of paying an annual tribute. But
their name and influence have now
ceased, and, like the Howára Arabs,
once so well known in these districts,
the princes of Ekhmeem are only
known from the accounts of old travellers,
and the traditions of the
people. They show their tombs, with
those of their slaves; and in the
cemetery, near the ruins, is the Tomb
ofSheykh Aboo 'l Kásim, the patron of
the town. Boats, ostrich-eggs, and
inscriptions are hung up within it
as ex-votos to the saint; and a tree
within the holy precincts is studded
with nails, driven into it by persons
suffering from illness, in the hopes of
a cure.
Pococke speaks of some convents
near Ekhmeem, one called “of the
Martyrs,” mentioned by the Arab
historian Makreezee, and another
about two miles farther in a wild
valley, which is composed of grottos
in the rock, and a brick chapel
covered with Coptic inscriptions.
Near this is a rude beaten path, leading
to what appears to have been the
abode of a hermit. This valley is
doubtless the Wády el-Ain (“Valley
of the Spring”), between 3 and 4 m.
to the N.E. of Ekhmeem, in which
are a spring of water and grottos,
and on the S. of its mouth an old
road leading over the mountains.
Close to this is a modern pass called
Nugb el-Kólee, which crosses the
mountains, and descends again into
the valley, in the district of Sherg
Weled Yáhia, nearly opposite Bardécs.
(E.) Behind the village of Howawieh
are other grottos, of very ancient
date; in which Mr. Harris found
the hieroglyphic name of the nome of
Panopolis; and 3 m. above Ekhmeem
are the vestiges of an ancient cemetery,
containing an immense number of
mummy pits. Some interesting remains
have been found here. The
mounds in the vicinity have been
regarded by some to be the place
called Thomu.
Thomu should be the place called
in Coptic Thmoui-m-Panehêou; but
M. Champollion endeavours to show
from a Copt MS. that it was an island
on the western side of the Nile,
opposite Ekhmeem; and its name,
“the Island of the place of Cattle,”
argues that it was not on the mainland,
if even it could be to the E. of
Panopolis. Thomu, however, is placed
by the Itinerary on the E. bank, 4 m.
above Panopolis, and therefore agrees
with the position of those mounds.
Some other places are mentioned in
the Coptic MSS. as having existed

in the vicinity of Ekhmeem: but of
their exact position nothing is satisfactorily
known. These are Pleuît,
Shenalolêt
, and Tsmine, the first of
which appears to have been an ancient
town of some consequence; the second,
from its name, a village with many
vineyards in its neighbourhood; and
in the last was a monastery founded
by St. Pachomius.
(W.) Mensheeyeh, 11 m., has extensive
mounds, but the only vestiges of
masonry consist in a stone quay on
the E. side of the town. It stands on
a small branch of the Nile, which was
probably once the main stream. By
the Copts it is called Psoi, and sometimes
in Arabic MSS. El-Monshat, as
well as Meusheeyeh. It is supposed
to occupy the site of Ptolemaïs Hermii;
which, according to Strabo, was the
largest town in the Thebaïd, and not
inferior to Memphis. But neither
its original extent, nor that of any
city in Upper Egypt, except Thebes
itself, can justify this assertion of the
geographer. He even gives it a political
system, on the Greek model;
which, if true, may refer to some
change in its government, after it
had been rebuilt and had received
the name of Ptolemaïs; for it doubtless
succeeded to a more ancient city,
and Ptolemy calls it the capital of
the Thinite nome. Leo Africanus
says it was “badly built, with narrow
streets, and so dusty in summer that
no one could walk out on a windy
day. The neighbourhood, however,
was famous for abundance of corn
and cattle. It was once possessed by
a certain African prince from the
Barbary coast, called Howára, whose
predecessors obtained the principality
of that name, of which they were
deprived by Soliman, the 9th Sultan
of the Turks”
From Mensheeyeh to Girgeh the
eastern chain of hills comes down
close to the river, and is known by
the name of Gebel Tookh. At its
northern extremity are the ruins of
an old town, about a mile above
Laháiwah. There are many tombs in
the face of the cliff, and large quarries
of the Ptolemaic and later periods,
containing inscriptions in Greek,
Latin, and Demotic writing. One of
these mentions Menippides, who
opened the quarry in the reign of
Ptolemy Soter. There are also salutations
made by Roman soldiers on
guard, and the name of the “third
Iturean cohort.”
(W.) Ayserat on the W. bank is
still noted, like Girgeh and Kasr es-Syád,
for its numerous turkeys.
(E.) Geergeh, or Girgeh, 13 m.,
Population 14,800. Formerly the
capital of the province of the same
name, but now much sunk in importance.
It contains a large Christian
population. When visited by Pococke
and Norden, it was a quarter of a
mile from the river; but it is now on
the bank, and part of it has already
been washed away by the stream.
This is one of many proofs of the
great changes that have taken place
in the course of the Nile within a few
years, and fully accounts for certain
towns, now on the river, being laid
down by ancient geographers in an
inland position. It has been conjectured
that Girgeh occupies the site of
the ancient This or Teni.
At Girgeh there is a Latin convent
or monastery, the superior of which is
an European. It is the oldest Roman
Catholic establishment now in Egypt,
those of Ekmeem, Farshoot, and
Tahta, being the next in order of
antiquity. Some consider that of Negádeh
the most ancient. It was not
from a Latin but from a Copt convent
that Girgeh received its name, and
Girgis, or George, as is well known,
is the patron saint of the Egyptian
Christians. Leo Africanus tells us
that “Girgeh was formerly the largest
and most opulent monastery of Christians,
called after St. George, and inhabited
by upwards of 200 monks,
who possessed much land in the
neighbourhood. They supplied food
to all travellers; and so great was the
amount of their revenues, that they
annually sent a large sum to the
patriarch of Cairo, to be distributed
among the poor of their own persuasion.

About 100 years ago a
dreadful plague afflicted Egypt, and
carried off all the monks of this convent,
wherefore the prince of Mensheeyeh
surrounded the building with
a strong wall, and erected houses within,
for the abode of various workmen
and shopkeepers. In process of time,
however, the patriarch of the Jacobites
(or Copts) having made a representation
to the Sultan, he gave orders that
another monastery should be built on
the spot, where an ancient city formerly
stood, and assigned to it only a
sufficient revenue to enable it to maintain
30 monks.”
Abydus may be visited from Girgeh,
but it is a long weary ride of 12 miles,
and it is far better to go from Bellianeh.
The only place of importance
between Girgeh and Abydus is Bardées,
well known in the time of the
Memlooks, who gave the title El-Bardéesee
to one of the principal Beys,
hence called Osman Bey el-Bardéesee.
Farther to the S.W. is a town with
old mounds, called El-Beerbeh— a
name taken from the Coptic Perpe,
“the temple,” and commonly applied
to ancient buildings.
(W.) Bellianeh, 8 m., has succeeded
to an old town whose mounds mark
its site. Its Coptic name is Tpourané.
Donkeys can be procured here for
going to Abydus, distant about 6 m.,
or 21/2 hours.

EXCURSION TO ABYDUS.

The way lies across a very rich plain
till the edge of the desert is reached,
on which stands the modern village of
Ardbat, surnamed by the Arabs of
Madfoón (“the buried”), from the
ancient edifices that until lately lay
covered with the desert sand all
around.
Abydus, or Thinis (in Coptic Ebôt;
in the hieroglyphics Abood, or Ab of
the Mountain; called in the Harris
papyrus, Abood Sap Ooser—Abydus,
the land or region of Osiris), was one
of the largest and most important
cities in Upper Egypt. Strabo indeed
says that, though in his time reduced
to the state of a small village, it had
formerly held the first rank next to
Thebes—a position which was probably
assigned to it as having been
the birth-place of Menes, and the
burial-place of Osiris. “There are
many places,” says Plutarch, “where
his corpse is said to have been deposited;
but Abydus and Memphis
are mentioned in particular as having
the true body; and for this reason the
rich and powerful of the Egyptians
are desirous of being buried in the
former of these cities, in order to lie,
as it were, in the same grave as Osiris
himself.”
Its ruins are on a grand scale, and
of considerable antiquity; and, thanks
to the recent excavations of Mariette
Pasha, have been to a great extent
cleared from their sandy shroud. Beginning
at the S. end of the ruins, the
first large edifice reached is the
Temple of Sethi I., father of Rameses II.
This is the building called by
Strabo the “Memnonium,” and deservedly
praised by him for the magnificence
of its decoration. The plan of
this temple is somewhat irregular, and
it is difficult to determine the meaning
and object of its various parts.
In the outer court are some very fine
sculptures which retain much of their
colour. They show Rameses receiving
blessings from Thoth, Anubis, Osiris,
Horus, and other divinities. The First
Hall
has two rows of columns. The
sculptures are in the peculiar intaglio
which under the Ptolemies became
such a poor art. Observe in the N. W.
corner Rameses offering a golden
statuette of himself to Osiris. The
king is here represented as a very
young man. On the columns are
figures, supporting the royal oval,
which have been taken by some authorities
to represent the Phœnix. They
occur also at Tel el-Yahoodeh, Esneh,
and some other places, and specimens
are in the British Museum, and resemble
a bat with human hands. In
front of each is a star, and below the
hieroglyph neb (lord).

TEMPLE OF SETHI AT ABYDUS.

The Second Hall has three rows of
columns. Here are perhaps the best
sculptures. They are in low relief.
Observe at the N. end a picture of
Sethi making an offering to Osiris of
an image of Ma, the goddess of justice.
This is perhaps the finest example
of the art of the XIXth Dynasty.
and may be considered the chef d'œuvre
of Hi, who, as we know from inscriptions
at Thebes, was chief sculptor to
Sethi I. His coadjutor, Amen-nahsu,
does not seem, to judge from the
painting here, to have been an equally
clever artist, and it is hardly possible
to regret that this figure of Sethi has
been wholly denuded of paint, and
now appears only in the beautiful
white marble from which it is cut.
From the Second Hall seven short
passages lead westward into as many
Vaulted Chambers. The method of
constructing the roofs of these chambers
is very singular. They are
formed of large blocks of stone, extending
from one architrave to the other;
not, as usual in Egyptian buildings,
on their faces, but on their sides; so
that, considerable thickness having
been given to the roof, a vault was
afterwards cut into it, without endangering
its solidity. The whole
was covered with hieroglyphics and
sculptures beautifully coloured; and
on the ceiling the ovals of the king remain,
with stars and transverse bands
containing hieroglyphics. A short
passage on the W. side of the third
vaulted chamber from the N. leads into
a small hall supported by ten columns.
Here the colour is extremely fresh,
and the sculpture delicate. Observe
Horus in his shrine on the E. wall.
On the rt. of this hall as you enter
are some other small chambers covered
with very highly finished sculptures.
From the S. end of the Second
Hall leads a narrow slightly ascending
Passage, the ceiling and sides of
which are covered with sculptures.
Amid the stars and king's ovals with
which the ceiling is decorated is an
inscription commemorating the dedication
of the temple. On the left or
E. wall are four scenes. The first,
second, and fourth represent offerings
made to Ammon, Horus, and Osiris.
In the third Sethi and his son Rameses
are represented standing in front of a
tablet, on which are engraved the
names of 130 divinities, which the
text calls “the great and the small
cycle of the divinities of the sacred
places of the north and the south.”
The rt. or W. wall is divided into four
scenes like the other, and in the one
immediately opposite the tablet of
divinities just mentioned is the
Tablet of Abydus, in which Sethi
and Rameses are offering homage to
76 kings their predecessors, Sethi
himself being included. From the
beauty of the engraving, the perfect
state of preservation in which it
was found, and its historical importance,
this is one of the most interesting
monuments in Egypt. The
list of these 76 kings begins with
Menes and ends with Sethi I. It is
arranged in three lines, but the last
line consists entirely of the two names
of Sethi. The tablet was discovered
in 1865, and is conjectured by M.
Mariette to be the original of the fragmentary
one found in the temple of
Rameses II. at Abydus, and now in
the British Museum. Rameses copied
the list made by his father. Mariette
Pasha further supposes that the kings
whose names are given on these two
tablets, are those who had more particularly
been connected with Abydus,
either through having been born there,
or having added to and embellished
the city; just as the list of kings engraved
by Thothmes III., in what
is called the “Hall of Ancestors,”
taken from Karnak, and now at Paris,
contains the names of those who
had more particularly benefited
Thebes.
In a chamber opening to the W.
from the passage containing the tablet,
is a picture of Sethi assisting his
son, Rameses, here represented as a
boy, to catch a wild bull. In spite
of the conventional proportions, this
picture is full of spirit. Other pictures
show the young Rameses sacrificing,

and in one curious scene he is
apparently fowling, assisted by a number
of divinities.
There are various other smaller
columnar halls and chambers to the
S., many of them covered with highly-finished
painted sculptures. The
motif of these pictures is the same
here as in all the temples of the Pharoanic
period, viz., the king adoring
the divinity of the place. In the
vaulted chambers of this temple the
paintings represent in successive order
the different ceremonial observances.
The king on entering the chamber,
round which were placed in their
shrines the statues of different divinities,
turned to the right, and opening
each shrine in succession, offered
incense to the divinity, removed the
covering which enveloped it, placed
his hands on it, sprinkled perfume on
it, and then re-covering it, passed on
to the next shrine, and so round the
chamber.
Temple of Rameses II.—This temple
lies a short way across a high mound
to the N. It is dedicated, like that
of his father Sethi, to Osiris. The
materials of which it was composed
were of unusual richness, the walls of
one chapel being lined with oriental
alabaster, and covered, so far as can be

TEMPLE OF RAMESES II.

gathered from the few fragments that
remain, with very fine sculptures richly
painted. It was from a wall of this
temple that the mutilated tablet of
Abydus referred to above was taken.
It was first discovered by Mr. Banks
in 1818; and having been carried away
by M. Mimaut, the French Consul-general,
and sold in Paris, is now deposited
in the British Museum.
This temple is scarcely inferior in
extent to the first, but has suffered
much more at the hands of the destroyer.
A great court, surrounded
by Osiride figures, opened into the
inner chambers, by a magnificent
doorway of red and black granite.
On either doorpost are sculptured long
cartouches, in which the many names
and titles of Rameses II. are summed
up, the whole appropriately supported
below by a figure of Ma, the goddess
of justice. The entrance to the court
is from the E., where a similar gateway
of red granite has the same sculptures.
The walls rise to a height of
8 ft. in places, and are covered with
processions, among which may be
found some pictures of fat cattle. The
remaining sculptures, though they
retain much colour, are uninteresting,
being merely repetitions of the scenes
in the other temple, in a style of art
slightly inferior.
Site of Thinis.—Continuing still

in a N. direction, we reach a large
crude-brick enclosure. This probably
marks the site of Thinis, the cradle
of the Egyptian monarchy, and the
place where was situated the tomb
of Osiris, a sanctuary as venerated
by the ancient Egyptians as the
Holy Sepulchre by Christians. Inside
this enclosure is a mound called the
Kóm es-Sultán. It is not a natural
tumulus, but is formed by the heaping
up of tombs in successive ages one
upon another; and M. Mariette thought
with great probability that these may
be the tombs of the rich Egyptians of
whom Plutarch speaks, as coming from
all parts of the country to Abydus to
be buried near Osiris. He looked forward,
moreover, with some hope, to
the possibility of finding in the rock
at the base of this mound the famous
tomb of Osiris itself.
The necropolis of Abydus has furnished
a large proportion of the stelæ
and other objects of interest in the
museum at Cairo. The tombs are
principally of the VIth, XIIth, and
XIIIth Dynasty periods. Those of
the XIIIth Dynasty are often small
pyramids of crude brick with the
centre hollowed out. Many of the
tombs of the VIth Dynasty are
vaulted, and present instances of the
true arch.
When the Kóm es-Sultán has been
traversed in a northerly direction, the
first of two very singular and interesting
crude-brick buildings is reached.
It consists of an enormous fort, surrounded
with double walls, which
stand 12 ft. apart; the interior space
being plastered and whitewashed.
The outer face of the inner wall is
furnished with massive square buttresses.
The height of each wall
averages 40 ft., but must originally
have been much greater. The length
of the whole building is 410 ft., and
the breadth about 220. This is one of
the old fortresses of Egypt. Under
the flooring an enormous number
of ibis mummies have been found,
each interred in an earthenware
jar.
Coptic Monastery of Amba Musáss.
—About 1/4 mile N. is another, and
from the exterior, very similar building,
rising, like a Norman castle, from
the sands of the desert. It contains
a Coptic dayr, or monastery, with a
church, of great antiquity and interest.
The Church, which is constructed
of ancient dark-red burnt bricks, is
dedicated to Amba Musáss, who is
represented in a picture within as an
aged white - bearded hermit. It is
still surmounted by no less than 23
domes, and consists of three transeptal
aisles, of which that to the E.
is separated from the others by carved
and highly-coloured wooden screens,
and divided by walls of solid masonry
into different heykels (chancels), in
each of which is an altar. Each
heykel ends flat, and is pierced by
niches. The arches and piers which
support the whitewashed domes are
constructed of dark-red and yellow
bricks, which have an excellent effect.
The arches are round. To the N.W.
of the three main aisles are domed
chapels, some of which are in ruins.
In one of these is the tank for the
water blessed at the Eed el-Ghitás on
the Eve of the Feast of the Epiphany.
The baptismal font of stone still exists,
and in one of the heykels is a very
ancient brass candlestick. On 2 of the
altars are flat, oblong boards of wood
with incised crosses and
in monogram. There
are several pictures in monogram of
no great antiquity, and a few MS.
service-books on cotton paper. Hard
by Amba Musáss are the massive
crude-brick walls, apparently of another
dayr, called Hôsh Roomi. The
walls of these two edifices evidently
date from ancient Egyptian times,
and are of the same general construction
as the huge crude-brick edifice
already alluded to as marking the
site of Thinis.
The visitor who has time should
proceed beyond the dayr some distance
along the road towards Girgeh,
for the sake of the fine View of the
mountains which surround this seat
of the most ancient civilisation the
world has seen. Many tombs appear

to have been opened in the face of
the cliffs, and to one, at the N. end
of the amphitheatre of hills, a road
leads, bordered by walls as at Beni
Hassan.
The reservoir mentioned by Strabo,
which was cased with large stones,
may perhaps be traced on the E. of
the ancient town; and it was to this
that a canal, called Pan Abdu, in the
hieroglyphic text, brought the water
from the Nile, passing, as does the
present canal, through the grove of
Acanthus.
From Abydus, a road leads to the
Great Oasis, ascending the Libyan
chain of mountains nearly due W. of
the town. Another road runs to the
same Oasis from El-Kalaat, a village
farther to the S. of Samhood, which
is the one taken by those who go from
and to Farshoot, and other places in
this part of the valley; the ascent and
descent being so much more easy than
by the mountain road, or path, to the
W. of Abydus (see Rte. 17).
(E.) On the opposite bank stood
Lepidotum, so called from the worship
of the fish Lepidotus; but its exact
position is unknown, though a place
of some size and importance, and
mentioned by Ptolemy as one of the
large cities of Egypt.
(W.) Samhood, inland, occupies
the site of an ancient town, called in
Coptic Semhôout, or Psenhôout; for
though placed more to the N. in the
Coptic MSS., it is evident this name
can only apply to the modern town of
Samhood, whose mounds sufficiently
indicate its antiquity.
(E.) About the district of Sherg el-Khayam
the Nile makes a considerable
bend, but resumes its general
course, about N. and S., near El
Hamra.
(W.) Farshoot, 18 1/2 m., derives its
name from the Coptic Bershôout. It
is a good-sized village with a large
sugar-factory belonging to the Khedive.
In Pococke's time Farshoot
was the residence of the great sheykh,
who governed nearly the whole
country on the W. bank; but he had
already lost much of his authority,
and had great difficulty in collecting
his revenues. The inhabitants are
descendants of the Howára tribe of
Arabs, who for several years enjoyed
undisturbed possession of the soil,
under the government of their own
sheykhs. They lost their independence
under their last sheykh, Hammam,
who with an army, said to have
consisted of 36,000 horsemen, was entirely
defeated by Mohammed Bey.
The family still remain, but they are
now like the other peasants.
The Howára were always famed for
their skill in breeding and managing
horses; the name Howáree, like
Fáres, signifies a “horseman,” and
is still applied to the native riding-masters
and horsebreakers of Egypt.
The Howára breed of dogs was not
less noted in Upper Egypt than that
of the horses; some of which are still
found about Erment, Bairát, and
other places, mostly used for guarding
sheep; and their rough, black,
wire-haired coats, their fierce eye,
their size, and their courage, in which
they differ so widely from the cowardly
fox-dog of Egypt, sufficiently
distinguish them from all other breeds
of the country. Nor have the people
the same prejudice against dogs as
in Lower Egypt; and indeed the inhabitants
of Upper Egypt have generally
much fewer scruples on this
point than other Moslems, being
mostly of the sect of Málekee, who
view the dog with more indulgent
feelings.
The W. bank of the Nile in the
whole of this district, which is called
Hamram, is remarkably rich and fertile;
and the beauty of the landscape
is much increased by the large groves
of palm-trees and acacia which line
the bank.
(W.) The next town or village of
any size, after Farshoot, is Bajoóra.
It lies a short distance inland, but it
has a port called Sahel-Bajoóra, on
the river. Here is a large sugar-factory
well worth a visit. It is locally

called, like everything else in Egypt
worked by steam, El Baboor, an Arab
corruption of the French “le vapeur.”
Beyond, at the southern extremity of
the bend of the river, are How and
Kasr es-Syád, on opposite sides of the
river. Here the river takes a very
long curve; and as it runs from
Keneh to How its course is S.W., so
that the former stands about 9' of
latitude more to the N. than How,
though higher up the stream. A
similar deviation from its course does
not occur again, except in the vicinity
of Derr in Nubia, and at the great
bend of the river above Dongola,
which was formerly called the
or elbows of the Nile.
(W.) How, 8 m., in Coptic Hô, Hou,
or Ano, occupies the site of Diospolis
Parva. Among the usual mounds of
rubbish are the foundations of a sandstone
stone temple with sculptured figures.
Behind the village is a Coptic Dayr.
About a mile to the S., at the edge of
the desert, are other mounds and the
remains of buildings.
(E.) At Kasr es - Syád, or “the
Sportsman's Mansion,” on the opposite
bank, are the mounds of the ancient
Chénoboscion, in Coptic Senesét. It
was famous for its geese, which were
fed there in great numbers; and it
was from this circumstance that it
borrowed a name which was probably
a translation of the original Egyptian.
Turkeys seem now to have
taken their place; and after Akhayseh,
Ayserát, and Girgeh, they are
most abundant at Kasr es-Syád.
The fine bold bluff which here rises
abruptly from the river is called Gebel
Tookh.
(E.) About a mile beyond the eastern
mouth of the canal of Kasr es-Syád,
not very far from the high road,
are some tombs of the VIth Dynasty
period. Within them the agricultural
and other scenes common to the tombs
of Egypt may still be traced on the
walls, and some indeed in a very good
state of preservation. Many are
covered with Coptic ex-votos worth
studying.
The eastern chain of hills here approaches
close to the river for the last
time before reaching Thebes, and the
western or Libyan range, of far bolder
and more striking outline, is soon seen
advancing on the right.
(E.) Deshneh, a good-sized village,
with a well-supplied market on Sundays.
Sand-grouse may often be
found in the neighbourhood among
the hilfeh grass.
The isle of Tabenna was somewhere
on the W. bank, between Diospolis
Parva (How) and Tentyris. In Coptic
it was called Tabenneci or Tabennêse.
Champollion supposes the name to
signify “abounding in palm-trees,” or
“the place of flocks;” and the termination
êsi to refer to the goddess
Isis. In Arabic he says it is called
Gezeeret el-Gharb, “the Isle of the
West.” It was here that, about A.D.
356, St. Pachôm (Puchomius) built a
monastery, occupying “the vacant
island of Tabenue,” as Gibbon says,
with “1400 of his brethren.”
(E.) Fow, inland, on the E. bank,
marks the site of Bopos, in Coptic
Phboou.
About 1/2 m. from the river are the
ruins of the
(W.) Temple of Denderah , to the
N. of the modern village of that name.
The usual practice is to moor the
dahabeeyeh to the E. bank at the nearest
spot for reaching Keneh, a short
distance farther S. and inland, then
cross the river in the boat and ride
on donkeys to Denderah; but, by
those who can walk, the ruins are
more easily reached from a point N.
of Keneh.
The name of Tentyris, or Tentyra ,
in Coptic Tentoré, or Nikentore, seems
to have originated in that of the
goddess Athor, or Aphrodite, who
was particularly worshipped there;
and that the principal temple was
dedicated to this goddess we learn
from the hieroglyphics, as well as from
a Greek inscription on the front, of
the time of Tiberius, in whose reign
its magnificent portico was added to
the original building. Tentyra is
probably taken from Téi-n-Athor, the
abode of Athor, or Athyr. The name

Athor is also a compound word, “Tei
(or Thy), Hor,” signifying “the abode
of Horus;” which agrees with what
Plutarch says, when he calls Athor
“Horus' mundane habitation.” The
hieroglyphics, too, represent the name
of the goddess by a hawk (the emblem
of Horus) placed within a house.
Egyptian sculpture had long been
on the decline before the erection of
the present temple of Denderah; and
the Egyptian antiquary looks with
little satisfaction on the graceless style
of the figures, and the crowded profusion
of ill-adjusted hieroglyphics,
that cover the walls of this as of other
Ptolemaïc or Roman monuments. But
architecture still retained the grandeur
of an earlier period, and though
the capitals of the columns were frequently
overcharged with ornament,
the general effect of the porticoes
erected under the Ptolemies and
Cæsars is grand and imposing, and
frequently not destitute of elegance
and taste.
These remarks apply very particularly
to the temple of Denderah; and
from its superior state of preservation
it deserves a distinguished rank among
the most interesting monuments of
Egypt. For though its columns, considered
singly, may be said to have a
heavy, perhaps a barbarous, appearance,
the portico is doubtless a noble
specimen of architecture; nor is the
succeeding hall devoid of beauty and
symmetry of proportion. The preservation
of its roof also adds greatly
to the beauty, as well as to the interest,
of the portico; and many of those in
the Egyptian temples lose their effect
by being destitute of roofs. Generally
speaking, Egyptian temples are
more picturesque when in ruins than
when entire; being, if seen from without
merely a large dead wall, scarcely
relieved by a slight increase in the
height of the portico. But this cannot
be said of the portico itself; nor
did a temple present the same monotonous
appearance when the painted
sculptures were in their original state;
and it was the necessity of relieving
the large expanse of flat wall which
led to this rich mode of decoration.
The building of the temple of Denderah
was begun in the reign of the
11th Ptolemy, and completed in that
of the Emperor Tiberius, but the
sculptures and decorations were not
finished till the time of Nero. The
names of the Cæsars are numerous.
In the portico may be distinguished
those of Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius,
and Nero. On the former front of the
temple, now the back of the pronaos,
or portico, are those of Augustus and
Caligula. This was, in fact, the original
extent of the building, and it
was previous to the addition of the
portico that it was seen by Strabo.
The oldest names are of Ptolemy
Cæsarion, or Neo-Cæsar, son of the
celebrated Cleopatra by Julius Cæsar,
and of his mother. The Portrait of
Cleopatra
and that of her son are on
the back wall of the exterior. Neither
her features (which may still be
traced) nor her figure correspond
with her renowned beauty. But the
portrait is interesting, from being the
contemporary representation of so
celebrated a person; and, judging
from Greek gems, it seems to bear
some general resemblance to the original;
allowance being made for the
Egyptian mode of drawing and the
want of skill of the artist, who probably
never saw the queen, and copied
her portrait from some other imperfect
picture.
Description of the Temple.—Like
all Egyptian temples, it stands in the
centre of a large crude-brick enclosure,
the height and thickness of whose
walls prevented anything that took
place inside being seen or heard.
From and isolated stone pylon, bearing
the names of Domitian and Trajan, a
dromos leads up to the entrance.
The Portico or pronaos(A) is a magnificent
hall supported by 24 columns.
Between the first line of columns on
either side of the entrance stretches a
high stone screen. In each of the
side-walls is a small doorway, which
served for the passage of the priests
and acolytes bearing offerings. The
main entrance was reserved for the
king. Immediately on the right after
entering the hall are four pictures,

TEMPLE OF DENDERAH.

representing the ceremonies observed
by the king before penetrating into
the interior of the temple. In the
first the monarch presents himself at
the entrance of the temple, sandals on
foot and sceptre in hand, and preceded
by five standards. The next
scene shows him undergoing the ceremony
of purification at the hands of
Thoth and Horus. He then, in the
third, receives the two crowns of
Upper and Lower Egypt from the
goddesses Wati and Suvan. Thus
recognised as sovereign of the whole
country, he, in the fourth picture, is
seen led by Maut of Thebes and Toom
of Heliopolis into the presence of the
goddess Athor, to taste of the divine
beauty and goodness. Similar scenes
occupy the walls on the left of the
entrance.
On the ceiling is the Zodiac, which
led to so much learned controversy.
Through the assistance of the Greek
inscription, which was strangely overlooked,
and the hieroglyphical names
of the Cæsars on the exterior and
interior walls, which were then unknown,
its date was satisfactorily
ascertained; and instead of being of
early Pharaonic time, or of an antediluvian
age, it is now confined to a
more modest and probable antiquity.
The only three zodiacs known in
Egypt, at Denderah, Esneh, and its
neighbour Ed-Dayr, are of Ptolemaïc
or of Roman date. The astronomical
subjects on the ceilings of the tombs
of the kings, and other ancient Egyptian
monuments, even if they may be
considered zodiacal, are represented
in a totally different manner; and
we may be certain that the zodiac, as
we know it, is not Egyptian. But it
is remarkable that in those of Denderah
and Esneh the sign Cancer
is represented by a scarabæus, not a
crab; though other signs, as Sagittarius
under the form of a Centaur,
evidently of Greek invention, are
admitted.
The details of the cornice of the
portico offer a very satisfactory specimen
of the use of a triglyphic ornament.
It is common in many of the
oldest Pharaonic temples, though arranged
in a somewhat different manner,
and without so remarkable a metope
as in the present instance. On
the frieze, or rather architrave, is a
procession to Athor; and among the
figures that compose it are two playing
the harp, and another the tambourine.
The inscription which records the
building of the portico is on the projecting
fillet of the cornice, and commences
with the name of the Emperor
Tiberius.
To the portico succeeds a Hall of 6
columns (B), with 3 rooms on either
side; the centre one on the right (I),
and the last on the left (H), having
entrances from the outside. Then
comes a chamber (c) communicating
on the left with two rooms, from the
first of which (Q) a staircase (B) leads
to the roof, and on the right with a
passage leading to 3 rooms (N), (M), (L),
and another staircase (R.) Another
chamber (D) follows, with one room
(K) on the left; and then comes what
has been called the sanctuary (E), with
a passage (s) leading round it communicating
with several lateral chambers,
that in the centre at the end (z)
being the one in which the emblem of
the divinity was preserved.
According to M. Mariette, each of
these halls and chambers had its
peculiar destination. The hall (B) was
where the processions first assembled.
On its walls is a sort of calendar of
the different fête-days. (c) and (D)
were annexes of (B), containing altars
at which prayers were said as the
procession passed on. In (E) were
kept the four sacred boats, which
played the principal part in these
processions. In the centre of each
of these boats was a small temple,
containing the emblem of the god to
which it was sacred. Toward the
innermost end of this chamber there
is a row of sockets crossing the floor
which may have supported pillars and
a curtain cutting off this part of the
chamber in the same manner as the
veil divided the holy place in the
Tabernacle. (F) served as a laboratory
in which were prepared the oils and essences
used for perfuming the temple
and statues, (G) was where the fruits

of the soil intended for offerings were
collected and consecrated. (H) and (I)
were passages through which were
brought in the offerings from Upper
and Lower Egypt respectively. (J)
was the treasure-chamber. All the
scenes on its walls represent the king
consecrating and offering different objects
in gold and silver. In (K) were
deposited all the sacred vestments.
The chambers (L), (M), (N), (O), (P),
and (Q), and the small temple on the
terrace, were especially devoted to the
celebration of the festival of the New
Year, marked by the appearance of the
star Sirius. A steep passage leads
out of the chamber (N) to a vault which
was probably a place of concealment
for the treasures of the temple. On
the walls of the two staircases (R) are
pictured the details of the processions
that took place on this occasion. At
the head marches the king; behind
him are 13 priests bearing standards
surmounted with the emblems of
various divinities. The procession
first mounted the northern staircase,
and stopped at the little hypæthral
temple above mentioned, each of whose
12 columns was dedicated to one of
the months of the year; it then descended
by the southern staircase.
The rest of the temple was more particularly
devoted to divine worship.
The corridor (s) is covered with the
usual scenes, representing the king
making offerings to various divinities
and receiving some gift in return;
each scene being accompanied by an
explanatory text. The chamber (T)
was dedicated to Isis; (U) to Osiris
restored to life; (v) to Osiris-Onophris
vanquishing his enemies under the
form of crocodiles; (w) to the same
god under the form of Hor-sam-to. In
(x) and (Y) Athor was especially worshipped
as the divinity who received
and gave fresh life to the sun each
day. In (z) the same goddess was
adored under her general titles, and
in a niche in the wall, which the king
alone might enter, was preserved her
mysterious emblem, a great golden
sistrum.
The remaining chambers
(a), (b), (c), and (d) were dedicated to
Pasht and other divinities.
In the thickness of the walls and
foundations are arranged long narrow
passages without openings of any
kind. Admittance to them could only
be obtained by moving, by some mechanical
contrivance, the stone which
concealed the entrance. Here were
probably concealed the statues in precious
metals, and the other objects of
value used in the service of the temple.
Mention has already been made of
the small Temple on the Roof. It is
dedicated as a whole to the local
Osiris of Denderah, and its six chambers
are appropriated to the different
forms of that divinity worshipped in
each of the 42 nomes into which ancient
Egypt was divided: the three
chambers on the N. to the northern
nomes, and the three on the S. to
the southern nomes. In the second
chamber on the S. side was the
planisphere or zodiac which is now
in Paris.
Other Buildings:—The Chapel of
Isis
was, according to Strabo, behind
the temple of Venus, and this observation
agrees remarkably well with
the size and position of the small
temple of that goddess: consisting, as
it does, merely of 1 central and 2
lateral adyta, and a transverse chamber
or corridor in front; and it stands
immediately behind the S.W. angle
of that of Athor. It is in this temple
that the cow is figured, before which
the Sepoys are said to have prostrated
themselves when our Indian army
landed in Egypt in 1800. Much has
been thought of this; but the accidental
worship of the same animal
in Egypt and India is not sufficient to
prove any direct connection between
the two religions.
To the temple of Isis belonged the
other pylon, which lies 170 paces to
the eastward, and which, as we learn
from a Greek inscription on either
face of its cornice, was dedicated to
that goddess in the thirty-first year of
Cæsar (Augustus); Publius Octavius
being military governor, or præfect,
and Marcus Claudius Postumus commander-in-chief.
The same inscription

is repeated on the E. side of the
same gateway.
Ninety paces to the N. of the great
temple of Athor is another building,
consisting of 2 outer passage-chambers,
with 2 small rooms on either
side of the outermost one, and a
central and 2 lateral adyta; the whole
surrounded, except the front, by a
peristyle of 22 columns. The capitals
ornamented, or disfigured, by the representations
of a Typhonian monster,
have led to the supposition that it was
dedicated to the Evil Genius; but as
the whole of its sculptures refer to
the birth of the young child of Athor,
it is evident that it appertains to the
great temple of that goddess who is
here styled his mother. The monster,
moreover, has nothing to do with
Typhon, but is the god called in the
hieroglyphics Bes, patron of mirth
and the dance, and, as such, his
image figures frequently on various
articles of the toilette-table. These
temples were styled by Champollion
the mammeisi, or “lying-in places,”
set apart for the accouchement of the
goddess, and where the third member
of the triad, worshipped in the adjoining
temple, was born.
About 230 paces in front of the
pylon of Athor is an isolated hypæthral
building
, consisting of 14 columns, united by inter-columnar
screens, with a doorway at either end;
and a short distance to the S. are
indications of an ancient reservoir.
A little to the N.E. of it are other
remains of masonry; but the rest of
the extensive mounds of Tentyris
present merely the ruins of crudebrick
houses, many of which are of
Arab date.
Five hundred paces S. of the pylon
of Isis is another crude-brick enclosure,
with an entrance of stone,
similar to the other pylons, bearing
the name of Antoninus Pius. Over
the face of the gateway is a singular
representation of the Sun, with its
sacred emblem the hawk, supported
by Isis and Nephthys. These two
“sister goddesses” represented “the
beginning and the end,” and were
commonly introduced on funereal
monuments, Isis on one side, Nephthys
on the other, of the deceased;
which might lead us to suppose this
enclosure to have been used for sepulchral
purposes. The area within it
measures about 155 paces by 265;
and at the S.E. corner is a well of
stagnant water.
The Town of Tentyris
stood between
this and the enclosure that surrounded
the temples, extending on either side,
as well as within the circuit of the
latter; and on the N.W. side appear
to be the remains of tombs. They
were, probably, of a time when Tentyris
ceased to be a populous city,
and when a deserted part of it
was set apart for the burial of the
dead.
In the limestone mountains S.S.E.
of Denderah are some old quarries,
and a few rude grottos without
sculpture; and in the vicinity is a
hill, about a mile to the N.W. of
them, in which are sunk numerous
tombs of the inhabitants of Tentyris.
In the desert near Denderah are
numerous primitive stones, evidently
rounded by rolling, and which, from
their number and the extent of the
space they are scattered over, could
not have been brought by the hand of
man; though many have been subsequently
arranged in lines for some
purpose. They are of granite, porphyry,
and other primitive substances,
which are only found in the interior
of the opposite eastern desert; and if
not brought by man, they must have
been carried across the present bed of
the river and up the slope of the
western desert, by a rush of water
coming from the valley which opens
upon Keneh, and which, rising in the
primitive ranges, has cut its way
through the secondary hills that border
the valley of the Nile. They are
therefore worthy the attention of the
geologist.
Between the town and the edge of
the sandy plain to the S. is a low
channel, which may once have been a
canal; and it is not improbable that
it was to this that the Tentyrites

owed their insular situation mentioned
by Pliny.
The Tentyrites and the Crocodile.
The Tentyrites were professed enemies
of the crocodile; and Pliny
relates some extraordinary stories of
their command over that animal. The
truth, indeed, of their courage, in
attacking so formidable an enemy,
appears to have been satisfactorily
ascertained; and Strabo affirms that
they amused and astonished the Romans
by their dexterity and boldness,
in dragging the crocodile from an
artificial lake, made at Rome for this
purpose, to the dry land, and back
again into the water, with the same
facility. Other writers mention the
remarkable command they had over
the crocodile; and Seneca accounts
for it by the contempt and consciousness
of superiority they felt, in attacking
their enemy; those who were
deficient in presence of mind being
frequently killed.
The crocodile is, in fact, a timid
animal, flying on the approach of man,
and, generally speaking, only venturing
to attack its prey on a sudden;
for which reason we seldom or never
hear of persons having been devoured
by it, unless incautiously standing on
the sloping shore of the river, in
shallow water, where, by the immense
power of its tail, it is enabled to
throw down and overcome the strongest
man; who, being carried immediately
to the bottom of the river, has
neither the time nor the means to
resist. Pliny, like other authors, has
been led into a common error, that the
sight of the crocodile is defective
under water, which a moment's consideration
(without the necessity of
personal experience) should have corrected;
for it is at least reasonable to
suppose that an animal living chiefly
on fish should, in order to secure its
prey, be gifted with an equal power
of sight; and that of fish cannot be
said to be defective. But Herodotus
affirms that it is totally “blind under
water.” Its small eye is defended
by the nictitating membrane, which
passes over it when under water. It
has no tongue, and moves the lower
jaw like other animals; though, from
its frequently throwing up its head,
at the same time that it opens its
mouth, it has obtained the credit of
moving the upper jaw. Another error
respecting it is its supposed inability
to turn; but it is better not to trust
to this received notion, as it can strike
its head with its tail. It is, however,
a heavy and unwieldy animal; it
cannot run very fast, and is usually
more inclined to run from, than at,
anybody approaching it. No one,
however, should go into the river from
a sandbank where crocodiles abound;
but there is little or no danger in
bathing in deep water. One or two
of these animals may still sometimes
be seen on the sandbank in the middle
of the river, opposite the landing-place
for Keneh.
The hatred of the Tentyrites for the
crocodile was the cause of serious disputes
with the inhabitants of Ombos,
where it was particularly worshipped;
and the unpardonable affront of killing
and eating the god-like animal
was resented by the Ombites with all
the rage of a sectarian feud. No religious
war was ever urged with more
energetic zeal; and the conflict of the
Ombites and Tentyrites terminated
in the disgraceful ceremony of a cannibal
feast, at which (if we can believe the rather
doubtful authority of Juvenal)
the body of one who was
killed in the affray was
eaten by his
triumphant adversaries.
(W.) At Taramseh is a ferry to
(E.)Keneh, 291/2 m. The chief town
of the province. (Pop. 15,400.) A
large and important town situated on
the banks of a canal about 2 1/2 m. from
the Nile. It stands on the site of
Caenopolis, or Neapolis, “the New
City” (the Newtown of those days),
but boasts no remains of antiquity.
There are baths, and a good bazaar
with several Greek shops. The market
is held every Thursday. Excellent
dates from the Hegáz are sold at
Keneh. They are in drums, or small

boxes, and are thus preserved in a
soft state. They are put in whole
like Smyrna figs; not broken up into
a mass like the Agweh of Cairo. To
one of these processes Pliny alludes,
when he says, “Thebaïdis fructus extemplo
in cados conditur.” Keneh
has succeeded Coptos and Koos as
the emporium of trade with the
Arabian coast, which it supplies with
corn, carried by way of Kosseir to
Emba (Yambo) and Jeddah. It is
noted for its manufacture of porous
water-jars and bottles, the former
called in Arabic zeer, the latter koolleh
and dóak, which are in great
request throughout Egypt. The clay
used for making them is found to the
northward of the town, in the bed of
a valley, whose torrents have for ages
past contributed to the accumulation,
or rather deposit, of this useful earth:
which, with the sifted ashes of hifleh
grass in proper proportions, is the principal
composition.
At Keneh is a large colony of
ghawázee (sing. gházeeyeh.). These
dancing-girls are often erroneously
called almehs, the almeh being a female
professional singer, while the
gházeeyeh is a dancer, and a much
more disreputable character. They
are to be met with in most of the
large villages and towns of Egypt.
Many travellers have raved about the
beauty of those ghawázee, and the
gracefulness of their dance; but the
real truth is that nine-tenths of them
are ugly and repulsive, and their
dance inelegant when kept within
the bounds of outward decency,and
disgusting when allowed full swing.
The direct road to Kosseir, on the
Red Sea, goes from Keneh. (See Rte. 12.)
(W.) The ancient village of pampanis,
the next mentioned by Ptolemy
after Tentyris, stood inland. Some
suppose it to have been at Ed-Dayr,
opposite Benoot, whose name also
shows it to be the successor of an
ancient town. But ed-Dayr cannot
occupy the site of Pampanis, if
Ptolemy be correct, as he places it
5' more to the S. than Apollinopolis
Parva (Koos), and nearly at two-thirds
of the distance from Tentyris
to Thebes. The latitude he gives of
that village, as well as the position of
Apollinopolis, require Pampanis to be
much farther S.; and taking the proportion
of the distances he gives, it
should have stood at Mensheeyeh or
Negádeh.
(W.) Balláseh is well known for its
manufacture of earthen jars, which
from this town have received the name
of Ballásee, and are universally used
in Egypt for the purpose of carrying
water; When full they are of great
weight; and one is surprised to find
the women able to bear them on their
heads, while admiring their graceful
gait as they walk with them from the
river. The same kind of jars are used
like some amphorae of the ancients, for
preserving rice, butter, treacle, and
oil, and for other domestic purposes:
and large rafts made of ballásee jars
are frequently floated down the Nile,
to be disposed of in the markets of the
metropolis.
Near Balláseh should be the site of
Contra Coptos.
(E.) Kobt, or Koft, the ancient Coptos ,
is a short distance from the river,
on the E.bank. In Coptic it was
styled Keft, and in the hieroglyphics
Kobthor: — a name recalling the
Caphtor of Scripture.
It is historically one of the most
interesting places in Upper Egypt, for
it would seem as if the whole country
takes its name from it. It has been
ingeniously conjectured that the revival
of the monarchy under the XIth
Dynasty was much furthered by the
wealth derived from trade with Arabia
and the Red Sea; trade which must
have passed through Koft, and is
specially described, in an inscription
of that period, on the rocks in the
valley of Hammamát, in which “the
perfumed gums collected by the desert
chiefs” are mentioned: and that, perhaps,
in this way Upper Egypt first
became known to the foreign nations of
antiquity-the kings of Upper Egypt,

the legitimate line, as distinguished
from the Hyksos and the Shemitic invaders
of Lower Egypt, being called
kings of Kopt. The inhabitants are
called Kubtee, or Gubtee, a name
given by Arabs to all Copts throughout
Egypt. If, as has been conjectured,
though on somewhat slender
grounds, the religious system of the
ancient Egyptians, with its idea of
one superior and invisible god, manifested
through his attributes in other
and inferior gods, is not of true Egyptian
origin, but came across the Red
Sea from the coasts of Arabia, then
it may have been from Koft that the
worship of Amen under his various
names and attributes was first introduced
into Egypt. Amen is often referred
to in the old writings as “Hak
Punt,” the Lord of Punt or Pount, a
name anciently applied to the “holy
land” of Hadramaut; and the god
Khem is denominated “of Coptos,”
in an inscription made at Konosso in
the First Cataract by king Mentuhotep,
of the XIth Dynasty. It was
the same king who, according to the
inscription in the valley of Hammaát,
ordered wells to be dug on the
road through the desert, between Koft
and the Red Sea. Koft was certainly
later on the headquarters of the religion
of Egypt, for in the early ages
of Christianity, and especially during
the Diocletianic persecutions, the
Christians of Koft acquired the
name now universally applied to
their descendants throughout the
country.
Koft is the scene of a very curious
legend (translated in ‘Records of the
Past,’ iv. 129), preserved in a papyrus
in the Boolak Museum. Its true
meaning is not very clear, but Setnau,
who is supposed to have been one of
the numerous sons of Rameses II., is
represented in it as receiving from
Ahura, a ghost, the account of a
voyage from Memphis to Koft, where
her son, and she herself, are successsively
drowned and are buried. Her
husband and brother, Ptah-nefer-ka,
goes back with a magic book he had
discovered in the “midst of the river
of Coptos,” and afterwards Setnau
comes to Koft, and celebrates the
funeral rites of Ahura and her son
Merhu, in the necropolis there, “at
the south-east corner of the place
called Pe-he-mato.” In the papyrus
mention is made of the worship of Isis
and Harpocrates at Koft. Mr. Harris
found here an inscription of the 8th
year of Trajan, containing a dedication
to Isis. Elian relates a story of the respect
paid by scorpions to her temple.
She was here supposed to have received
the news of the death of Osiris, and
Plutarch adds that the name “Coptos,”
signifies, in consequence, mourning;
a curious assertion, when we
remember, that though the native
name of Egypt was kam, blackness
or sorrow, Plutarch was probably
ignorant of it, and in giving this
meaning to Coptos, made just such
a mistake as might be expected. An
ass is said by the same author to
have been annually thrown from a
cliff by the Coptites, to show their
hatred of Typhon, but the nearest
mountains are a long way from the town.
The remains of its old wall are still
visible, and even the towers of the
gateway, which stood on the E. side.
The ruins are mostly of a late epoch:
the names on the fallen fragments of
masonry that lie scattered within its
precincts, or on those employed in
building the Christian Church, being
of different Caesars. A granite pillar
and several other blocks of stone
bearing the oval of Thotmes III.,
show that some monument existed at
Coptos of a very remote date, to which
the Roman emperors afterwards made
additions; and on a stone built into a
bridge on the road to the river are
the name and prenomen of an Enentef,
of the XIth Dynasty. But owing to the
depredations of the early Christians,
little can be traced of its ancient
buildings, their materials having been
used to construct the church, part of
which too only now remains. Tsarshere
are also the remnants of some hieroglyphic
inscriptions, apparently of
Ptolemaic time.
The principal cause of the ruinous
condition of this city may be attributed

to the fury of Diocletian; and
Gibbon states that it was “utterly
destroyed by the arms and severe
order” of that emperor. It had played
a conspicuous part in the rebellion
against his authority, and the severity
which he exercised at the same time
upon the Alexandrians fell with still
greater weight on the inhabitants of
Copos. At the village of el-Kála,
“the Citadel,” is a small temple, of
Roman date, bearing the royal ovals
of Tiberius Claudius.
Besides the ruins of temples and
other buildings, the vestiges of its
canals still attest the opulence of this
city; which continued to be the mart
of Indian commerce from the foundation
of Berenice till its destruction in
the reign of Diocletian; and though,
as in Strabo's time, the Myos-Hormos
was found to be a more convenient
port than Berenice, and was frequented
by almost all the Indian and
Arabian fleets, Coptos still continued
to be the seat of commerce. Myos-Hormos
was afterwards succeeded by
Philoterasportus, which had formerly
played a part in the time of the
Pharaohs under the name of Ænnum,
and this again gave place, at a later
period, to the modern town of Kosseir.
Coptos, too, was supplanted by Koos,
which continued to be the depôt of
all merchandise from the Red Sea,
during the reign of the Egyptian
sultans, until in its turn it gave place
to Keneh.
It was to Coptos that many of the
stones quarried in the porphyry and
other mountains of the eastern desert
were transported; for which purpose
large roads were constructed, at considerable
labour and expense, over
sandy plains, and through the sinuosities
of valleys. But that of the
emerald-mines took the direction of
Contra-Apollinopolis; nor does it appear
that any other communication
was established with these mines from
Coptos than by the Berenice road.
(See Rle. 12.)
(E.) The town of Esh-Shú rafa, to
the N. of Coptos, is so called from
having been founded and inhabited
by some Shereefs, or descendants of
Mohammed; who are distinguished
from other Moslems by the peculiar
right of wearing a green turban;
a custom first introduced by one of
the Baharite Memlook sultans of
Egypt, El-Ashraf Shabán, A.D. 1363-1377.
Aboolfeda says that the town of
Kobt was a wakf, “entail,” of the
Shereefs, though it appears rather to
have belonged to the Haramáyn of
Mecca and Medeeneh. How the inhabitants
of Coptos came to be Shiites,
as he says they were, he does not
explain; and it would be curious to
ascertain if this was really the case in
former times.
Contra - Coptos was probably at
Dowáide.
(E.) At Koos, in Coptic Kos-Birbir,
is the site of Apollinopolis Parva. In
the time of Aboolfeda, about A.D. 1344,
it was the next city in size and consequence
to Fostát, the capital, and the
emporium of the Arabian trade; but
it is now reduced to the rank of a
small town, and the residence of a
názir. At a sebéel is a monolith, now
converted into a tank, with a hieroglyphic
inscription on the jambs, containing
the name of Ptolemy Philadelphus;
and a short distance to the
W. of the town, near a sheykh's tomb,
are some fragments of sandstone, and
a few small granite columns.
Large sandbanks here obstruct the
course of the river for some distance.
In the early part of the year they are
a favourite resort of all kinds of waterbirds.
Later on they are planted with
melons.
(W.) Negádeh, 22 1/2 m., a short distance
S. of Koos, and on the opposite
banks, is noted for its Coptic and
Roman Catholic convents, and, in
Aboolfeda's time, for its gardens and
sugar-cane. The bend of the river
here offers one of the most lovely and
picturesque views on the Nile. The
town itself is old, and presents a
curious and pleasing appearance,
owing to the lofty pigeon-towers which
crown every house. This effect is of
course seen in many villages on the

Nile, but in none are the number of
pigeon-towers greater, or their battlemented
appearance more remarkable,
than at Negádeh. The pigeons are
kept for the sake of their dung, which
is the only manure used in Egypt, but
it is doubtful whether the profit thus
obtained from them is not more than
counterbalanced by the ravages they
commit in the fields.
Between Negádeh and Gamola, on
the edge of the desert, are 4 very old
convents, which as usual are ascribed
to the time of Helena. The principal
of them is Dayr el-Melák (of St.
Michael), about 3 miles behind Negádeh.
The inclosure and other walls
are constructed almost entirely of
crude brick, but a few courses of burnt
brick appear in one or two of the
apses outside. The Church, which
is rather a congeries of small churches
than a single building, is very curious.
It is very low, and all the arches are
round. This church is remarkable for
the perhaps unique feature of having
no wooden screens in any part of it,
they being all constructed of solid
masonry. The screens of the three
principal heykels differ likewise from
the ordinary plan, in having two doors
with a window between them, instead
of a central door between two windows
or apertures. The church is surmounted
by no less than 28 domes,
and has besides a small chamber with
a vaulted barrel roof. A chamber of
larger size in the domestic buildings
has a roof of similar construction.
This dayr is now unoccupied, but
service is celebrated on certain festivals
by clergy from the convent at
Negádeh. The other convents are
those of Es-Selêeb (of the Cross), near
Demféek, with a very small ch.; of
Mar Girgis; and of Mari Boktee,
about 2 1/2 m. beyond El-Arabba, the
oldest of all, with a church with a
semicircular apse, and some remains
of frescoes on its domes.
(E.) At Shenhoor, about two hours'
ride from Koos by the inland road to
Luxor, there are extensive mounds of
an ancient town, and both a small
temple and the remains of a Christian
church. The temple is worth seeing
from the simplicity of the arrangements,
which will enable the beginner
in Egyptian antiquities to understand
better the plan of some of the vast
and complicated edifices he is now
approaching. In the sanctuary, which
is quite whole, Tiberius, represented
as a young man, is seen offering to
Amen-Ra, Horus, and Khem. The
name of the town, Sen-Hor, may be
found among the hieroglyphs. On
the exterior wall, E. side, a small
wreath is cut over the bas-reliefs. It
probably marks the grave of an early
Christian martyr—an affecting and
interesting memorial. Only a few
pillars of the church are to be seen
in front of the temple. The minaret
of the mosque is of an early and
peculiarly picturesque type, reminding
the traveller of an Irish round tower,
which it exactly resembles. A somewhat
similar tower occurs at Luxor.
(W.) Between Shenhoor and Thebes
the river makes a considerable curve
to the E.; and a little above this
bend, just below Thebes, on the W.
bank, is Gamóla. It was noted in
Aboolfeda's time for its numerous
gardens and sugar-cane plantations,
which are mentioned also by Norden.
At the time of the rebellion of Sheykh
Ahmed, the soi-disant vizier, in 1824,
it was the residence of the well-known
Ali Kashef Aboo Tarboósh, who defended
the military post there against
the insurgents with great gallantry.
(E.) Medamót stands some distance
inland on the E. It is supposed to
mark the site of Maximianopolis, a
Greek bishop's see under the Lower
Empire; but neither the extent of its
mounds, nor the remains of its temple,
justify the name that some have applied
to it of Karnak esh-Sherkeeyeh,
or, “the eastern Karnak.” It is
generally visited from Thebes.
Some write the name Med-amood,
as though it were called from amood,
“a column;” and place Maximianopolis
on the other bank, at Negádeh;
while others fix it at Medeenet Háboo,
in Thebes, where the Christians had a
very large church until the period of
the Arab invasion.
The ruins of Medamôt consist of

crude-brick houses of a small town,
about 464 paces square, in the centre
of which is a sandstone temple; but
of this little remains, except part of
the portico, apparently, from the style
of its architecture, of Ptolemaïc date.
On the columns may be traced the
ovals of Ptolemy Euergetes II., of
Lathyrus, and of Auletes, as well as
those of the Emperor Antoninus Pius:
but a block of granite with the name
of Amenhotep II. proves the temple
to be of much greater antiquity. The
pylon before the portico bears the
name of Tiberius, but the blocks used
in its construction were taken from
some older edifice, erected or repaired
during the reign of Rameses II.
This pylon formed one of several
doorways of a crude-brick enclosure
which surrounded the temple; and a
short distance before it is a raised
platform, with a flight of steps on the
inner side, similar to that before the
temple at El-Khárgeh (in the Great
Oasis), at Karnak, and many other
places. To the southward of the
portico appears to be the site of a
reservoir, beyond which a gateway
leads through the side of the crudebrick
wall to a small ruin, bearing the
name of Ptolemy Euergetes I. Besides
the enclosure of the temple is a
wall of similar materials that surrounded
the whole town, which was
of an irregular shape. These ruins,
though small, are exceedingly picturesque,
and the pastoral scenes very
beautiful.
Even before Gamóla is reached the
ruins of Karnak, the Colossi, and all
the temples on the W. bank, come
into sight: and in a short time the
boat is moored to the E. bank, close
under an ancient temple, around
whose ruins cluster the mud huts of
the modern village of
(E.) Luxor , 22 m.

[Back to top]


451

SECTION VIII.
THEBES

PAGE
THEBES:—
Preliminary Information
451
Description of Thebes — its
ruins and remains
454

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

1. The town of Luxor.—2. Arrangements for visiting the Ruins.—3. Purchase
of Antiquities.
—4. Mode of seeing Thebes.

1. THE TOWN OF LUXOR.

Luxor is a large village of 3600
inhabitants, increasing both in population
and prosperity. It is the chief
stopping place on the Nile voyage,
and is the best head quarters from
which to visit the wonderful remains
of old Thebes, the most important and
interesting ruins in Egypt, after the
Pyramids. It is 450 m. from Cairo,
and 133 m. from Assoón.
Hotel.—There is an excellent hotel
belonging to Mr. Pagnon, the energetic
agent of Messrs. Cook and Sons.
It is well situated near the ruins of
Luxor. Charge per diem (including
everything but wine) 158. Reduced
charges for families, or in case of a
long stay. As the hotel is sometimes
full, it is advisable to write or telegraph
for rooms in advance.
Post-Office.—The postmaster speaks
English fluently, as does his assistant.
Letters from Cairo or Alexandria are
carefully and regularly forwarded to
the post-offices up the river for travellers
by dahabeeyeh. Those travelling
by Messrs. Cook & Sons'
steamers should have letters and
telegrams addressed to the care of
their Agent. The Telegraph Office is
on the Medeenet Aboo (W.) side of
the river. Travellers who think it
worth while may, to save trouble,
leave a number or cipher at the offices
in Cairo or Alexandria, as it is often
found impossible to transliterate an
English name intelligibly.
English Consular Agent, Mohammed
Mustapha.
Guides and Donkeys are to be had
on both banks. According to the
contract usually made in voyages in a
dahabeeyeh with a dragoman, they

are provided by him. The price is
about Is. a day, with a piastre to the
attendant boy, but a very good donkey
can only be retained at a slightly
higher rate. There are different sets
of guides and donkeys for each bank,
who do not interfere with each other.
Travellers by Messrs. Cook's steamers
will find donkeys ready for them on
arrival, and their agents make all the
necessary arrangements for visiting
the ruins and other sights.
Shops. — Provisions. — There are the
usual small Arab shops, and a market
is held every day during the winter.
Provisions are cheap. Tea, wine, and
beer, and sometimes gunpowder can
be procured from the Greek trading
boats which pass up and down the
river.
Shooting. — Capital quail-shooting
may be had on both sides of the river
in the month of March, or even earlier.
About 4 hrs.' ride inland on the W.
bank, in the direction of Erment, is a
lake, at which good duck-shooting
may be had in the winter. It is
necessary, however, to be provided
with a tent, so as to spend the night
near the lake, and be ready for shooting
at daybreak. A visit to the ruins
of Karnak by moonlight — a visit
which none should neglect to pay if
they have the opportunity — may be
combined with a night's watching for
hyænas, who occasionally, but very
seldom, are to be seen there.
Mooring place for Dahabeeyehs.
The usual mooring-place for dahabeeyehs
is to the high bank under
the village and temple of Luxor; but
those who prefer to be away from the
noise and bustle caused by the presence
of several boats, can moor to the
island just above, and cross to the
mainland, when occasion requires, in
the sandal. This little boat should
always be alongside, properly cleaned,
and with oars, rudder, sail, and
everything ready for taking the
visitor to the other side of the river,
or wherever he may wish to go.
Four or five sailors, properly dressed,
should always be in readiness to
go with it. For Karnak, a pleasant
mooring-place may be found on the
voyage down close to the front of the
temple.

2. ARRANGEMENTS FOR VISITING
RUINS.

In visiting the ruins, unless any
wish to the contrary is expressed, the
dragoman should always accompany
the party himself; and it should be
distinctly understood, when a visit to
the W. bank is intended, that the
guide has got the requisite number of
donkeys ready on the sand-bank immediately
opposite Luxor.
It is usual to spend the whole day
away from the boat in seeing the ruins
on the W. bank, and provisions must
then be taken. Numerous small boys
and girls will be found waiting with
the donkeys, all anxious to act as
attendants on the traveller, and carry
a koolleh full of water for his benefit,
and also any books, drawing materials,
&c., he may have with him. In return
for this service a small backsheesh
will be expected, or rather importunately
demanded at the end of the
day. It is better to select one attendant,
and then make him or her keep
the others off.
Candles, and some magnesium wire
should be taken for seeing the interiors
of the tombs properly. A new
lamp has been invented for burning
magnesium, and should, if possible, be
brought. Torches should never be
used for this purpose, as they blacken
the sculptures and utterly spoil them.
Many of the private tombs are so
blackened by the fires of the peasants
who inhabit them, as no longer to be
worth visiting; and if torches were
used for lighting up the Tombs of the
Kings, their smoke would soon blacken
and disfigure them. Travellers are
ready enough to reproach the ignorant
natives for the injury they do to the
monuments, though they themselves
are often quite as deserving of reproach
for their share in the destruction, for
the encouragement they give to the
peasants to break off some piece of
sculpture, by buying it when brought,
and often by employing them to
obtain it.

3. PURCHASE OF ANTIQUITIES.

Antiquities and curiosities should
be purchased with great caution.
Genuine things are to be had: but
there is a regular manufacture of
antiquities, especially scarabi and
basalt images at Luxor: and some of
the imitations are very clever and
difficult to detect. If it can be
arranged, a visit to one of the houses
where these are made is interesting.
The most tempting objects, as a rule,
are papyrus rolls. When genuine they
should if possible be bought, but
forgeries are very common, and it is
seldom possible to tell what the roll
contains. Should the roll be a valuable
one, injudicious attempts at
opening may seriously injure it.
Many of the best papyri in existence
in European museums want the first
lines, owing to want of care in opening
them. As a general rule, really valuable
articles are not produced for the
inspection of ordinary travellers.

4. MODE OF SEEING THEBES.

In order that Thebes and its remains
may produce their best effect,
the W. side should certainly be first
visited; and last of all Karnak on the
E. Those who are on their way up
the river to the 1st or 2nd Cataract
will do well, if the wind is favourable
on their arrival at Luxor, to stop there
no longer than may be absolutely
necessary for procuring provisions,
getting letters, &c., and leave all the
sight-seeing till they come back on
their way down. This course has the
farther advantage of putting off the
visit to Thebes till the days are
longer than in December and January.
Should the wind however be adverse,
or there be none at all, they may
prefer, instead of tracking on, to
remain till a change in the weather
occurs, and occupy the time in doing
some of the sights; they will then
require to stay a shorter time on their
way down.
Some persons will, no doubt, feel
disposed to take a more cursory view
of the ruins of Thebes than others,
being pressed for time, or feeling no
very great interest in antiquities. For
such three days may be sufficient
for seeing the principal objects of interest.
They may be employed as
follows:—
1st Day.— Cross early to the W.
bank, and visit the Colossi, the Memnomium,
Dayr el-Medeeneh, if time
serves, and Medeénet Háboo.
2nd Day.—Cross early to the W.
bank and visit Koorneh, and then
ride along the valley to the Tombs of
the Kings. Instead of coming back
by the same way, climb the path to the
top of the Libyan Mountain, whence
there is a magnificent view over the
plain of Thebes, and descend to Dayr
el-Bahree, well worth seeing; thence,
if there is time, to the tombs of the
Assaseéf.
3rd Day.—The temple of Luxor,
Karnak, and adjacent ruins.
In this way the traveller who merely
wishes to say he has seen Thebes may
get through it in three days. Indeed,
if he is abnormally industrious, starting
early, returning late, and going
quickly from one thing to another, he
may manage to cast a glance at some
things not included in the above programme.
But all who can should
spend at least a week at Thebes.
Karnak alone ought to have 2 days
given to it; and, as will be seen from
the description of the various remains
on the W. bank, there is plenty there
to occupy several days.

DESCRIPTION OF THEBES—ITS RUINS AND REMAINS.

PAGE
a. General History and Topography 454
b. Koorneh 456
c. Rameseum, or Memnonium 458
d. The Colossi—Vocal Memnon 464
e. Medeenet Háboo 466
f. Dayr el-Medeeneh 475
g. Dayr el-Bahree 476
h. Tombs of the Kings 478
i. Tombs of Priests and Private Individuals
—Drah Aboo 'l Negga—Assasef—Sheykh Abd el-Koorneh—
Koornet Murraee, &c.
487
k. Tombs of the Queens 496
l. Luxor 496
m. Karnak 498

a. GENERAL HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY.

Name.—The name Thebes is corrupted
from the Tápé of the ancient
Egyptian language, the Tápé of the
Copts, which, in the Memphitic dialect
of Coptic, is pronounced Thaba,
easily converted into , or Thebes.
Some writers have confined themselves
to a closer imitation of the Egyptian
word; and Pliny and Juvenal have
both adopted Thebes, in the singular
number, as the name of this city. In
hieroglyphics it is written Ap. Apé, or
with the feminine article T-ápé, the
meaning of which appears to be “the
head
,” Thebes being the capital of the
country. But Mariette Pasha was of
opinion that the Egyptian word Tema,
the city, was by a transliteration of
M and B, which is not uncommon,
turned into Teba, whence the Greek
form.
Thebes was also called Diospolis
Magna
, which answers to Amenei,
“the Abode of Amen,” the Egyptian
Jupiter. The city stood partly on the
E., partly on the W. of the Nile;
though the name Tápé (Thebes) was
applied to the whole city on either
bank. The western division had the
distinctive appellation of Pathyris, or,
as Ptolemy writes it, Tathyris, being
under the peculiar protection of Athor,
who is called “the President of the
West;' for though Amen (or Amen-ra)
was the chief deity worshipped
there, as well as in other quarters of
Diospolis, Athor had a peculiar claim
over the Necropolis beneath the
western mountain, where she was
fabulously reported to receive the
setting sun into her arms. Pathyris
was Pathros; though Jeremiah (xliv.
15) probably alludes to another city
of Athor in the Delta.
Foundation. — The period of its
foundation still remains, like that of
Memphis, the capital of Lower Egypt,
enveloped in that obscurity which is
the fate of all the most ancient cities;
but from the names of the oldest
kings seen about Memphis, it is evident
that Thebes was not so ancient
as the capital of Lower Egypt; and
there is even reason to suppose that
Hermonthis (now Erment) was older
than Thebes, of which we first hear
under the later kings of the XIth
Dynasty.
Site and Extent.—In the time of
the Ptolemies the western division of
the city, or, “the Libyan suburb,”
was divided into different quarters:
and even the tombs were portioned off
into districts, attached to the quarters
of the town. Thus we find that Thynabunum,
where the priests of Osiris
were buried, belonged to and stood
within the limits of the Memnonia.
It is probable that in late times, when
the city and its territory were divided
into two separate nomes, the portion


A PLAN OF THEBES London: John Murray.


A PLAN OF THEBES

on the western bank being under the
protection of Athor, received the name
“Pathyritic;” and Thebes being
afterwards broken up into several
small detached towns, which was the
case even in Strabo's time, Pathyris
became a distinct city.
Ancient authors do not agree as to
the extent of this city, which, according
to Strabo, was 80 stadia in length,
while Diodorous allows the circuit to
have been only 140—a disparity which
may be partially reconciled by supposing
that the latter speaks of it
when still an infant city. The epithet
Hecatompylos, applied to it by
Homer, has generally been thought to
refer to the 100 gates of its wall of
circuit; but this difficulty is happily
solved by an observation of Diodorus,
that many suppose them “to have
been the propylæ of the temples,” and
that this metaphorical expression
rather implies a plurality than a definite
number. Were it not so, the
reader might be surprised to learn
that this 100-gated city was never
enclosed by a wall—a fact fully proved
by the non-existence of the least
vestige of it; for, even allowing it to
have been of crude brick, it would,
from its great thickness, have survived
the ravages of time, equally with those
of similar materials of the early epoch
of the third Thothmes. Or, supposing
it to have been destroyed by the
waters of the inundation, and buried
by the alluvial deposit, in those parts
which stood on the cultivated land,
the rocky and uninundated acclivity
of the desert would at least have retained
some traces of its former existence,
even were it razed to the ground.
It is not alone from the authority of
ancient writers that the splendour
and power of this city (which had the
reputation of furnishing 20,000 armed
chariots from its vicinity) are to be
estimated; but the extent of the
Egyptian conquests adding continually
to the riches of the metropolis,
the magnificence of the edifices which
adorned it, the luxe of the individuals
who inhabited it, the spoil taken
thence by the Persians, and the gold
and silver collected after the burning
of the city, amply testify the immense
wealth of Egyptian Thebes.
The immense army which a force
of 20,000 chariots would imply was
not of course raised at Thebes alone,
which Diodorus seems to admit; but
he also miscalculates the number when
he computes the chariots at 20,000
and reckons only 100 stables and 200
horses in each, which, allowing 2 to
each car, will only supply half the
number. Moreover, he places these
stables between Thebes and Memphis.
The principal part of the city, properly
so called, lay on the E. bank;
that on the opposite side, which contained
the quarter of the Memnonia,
and the whole of its extensive Necropolis,
bore the name of the Libyan
suburb. It is not certain whether or
no cultivated spots of land were in
early times admitted amidst the
houses; but it appears from the sculptures
of the tombs that the principal
inhabitants had extensive gardens
attached to their mansions, independent
of their villas and farms outside
the city; and in the reigns of the
Ptolemies several parcels of land were
sold and let within the interior of the
Libyan suburb.
“Alone of the cities of Egypt, the
situation of Thebes is as beautiful by
nature as by art. The monotony of
the two mountain ranges, Libyan and
Arabian, for the first time assumes a
new and varied character. They each
retire from the river, forming a circle
round the wide green plain; the
western rising into a bolder and more
massive barrier, and enclosing the
plain at its northern extremity as by a
natural bulwark; the eastern, further
withdrawn, but acting the same part
to the view of Thebes as the Argolic
mountains to the plain of Athens, or
the Alban hills to Rome—a varied
and bolder chain, rising and falling in
almost Grecian outline, though cast
in the conical form which marks the
hills of Nubia farther south, and
which, perhaps, suggested the Pyramids.
Within the circle of these two
ranges, thus peculiarly its own,
stretches the green plain on each side
of the river to an unusual extent;

and on each side the river, in this
respect unlike Memphis, but like the
great city farther E. on the Euphrates
—like the cities of Northern Europe
on their lesser streams—spreads the
city of Thebes, with the Nile for its
mighty thoroughfare. ‘Art thou
better than No-Amon that was
situated by “the river of the Nile”—
that had the waters round about it—
whose rampart was “the sealike
stream,” and whose wall was “the
sealike stream.”' Nahum iii. 8.”—
A. P. Stanley.
Decline and Fall.—The greatest
step towards the decline and fall of
this city was the preference given to
Lower Egypt (but not to Memphis,
as Diodorus supposes); and the removal
of the seat of government to
Tanis and Bubastis, and subsequently
to Saïs and Alexandria, proved as
disastrous to the welfare, as the Persian
invasion to the splendour, of the
capital of Upper Egypt. Commercial
wealth, on the accession of the
Ptolemies, began to flow through
other channels; and Ethiopia no
longer contributed to the revenues of
Thebes. And its subsequent destruction,
after a 3 years' siege, by Ptolemy
Lathyrus, struck a deathblow to the
welfare and existence of this capital,
which was thenceforth scarcely deemed
an Egyptian city. Some few repairs
were, however, made to its dilapidated
temples by Euergetes II. and some
of the later Ptolemies; but it remained
depopulated, and at the time
of Strabo's visit it was already divided
into small detached villages.
The most ancient remains now
existing at Thebes are unquestionably
in the great temple of Karnak, the
largest and most splendid ruin of
which perhaps either ancient or modern
times can boast, being the work
of a number of successive monarchs,
each anxious to surpass his predecessor
by increasing the dimensions
and proportions of the part he added.
It is this fact which enables us to
account for the diminutive size of the
older parts of this extensive building.
To their comparatively limited scale,
offering greater facility, as their
vicinity to the sanctuary greater
temptation, to an invading enemy to
destroy them, added to their remote
antiquity, are to be attributed their
dilapidated state, and the total disappearance
of the sculptures executed
during the reigns of the Pharaohs,
who preceded Osirtasen I. of the
XIIth Dynasty, the earliest monarch
whose name exists on the monuments
of Eastern Thebes. There are, however,
the vestiges of earlier times on
the W. bank, especially at Drah Aoo
'l-Neggah.

b. KOORNEII.

Temple of Koorneh.—The northernmost
ruin on the W. bank, worthy of
notice, is the small temple at Old
Koorneh, or Goorna, dedicated to the
memory and worship of his father,
Rameses I., by Sethi I. and completed
by his son Rameses II., the supposed
Sesostris of the Greeks. It is sometimes
called Kasr er-Rubayk.
Plan.—Its plan offers the usual
symmetrophobia of Egyptian monuments,
but it presents a marked deviation
from the ordinary distribution of
the parts. The entrance leads through
a pylon, bearing, in addition to the
name of the founder, that of Rameses
III., beyond which is a dromos of
128 ft., whose mutilated sphinxes
are scarcely traceable amidst the
mounds and ruins of Arab hovels.
A second pylon terminates this, and
commences a second dromos of nearly
similar length, extending to the colonnade
or corridor in front of the temple,
whose columns, of one of the
oldest Egyptian orders, are crowned
by an abacus, which appears to unite
the stalks of water-plants that compose
the shaft and capital. Of the
intercolumniations of these 10 columns
3 only agree in breadth, and a similar
discrepancy is observed in the doorways
which form the 3 entrances to
the building. The temple itself presents
a central hall about 57 ft. in
length, supported by 6 columns,
having on either side 3 small chambers,
one of which leads to a lateral

hall, and the opposite one to a passage
and open court on the E. side.
Upon the upper end of the hall open
5 other chambers, the centre one of
which leads to a large room, supported
by 4 square pillars, beyond which
was the sanctuary itself: but the N.
end of this temple is in too dilapidated
a state to enable us to make an accurate
restoration of its innermost chambers.
The lateral hall on the W.,
which possibly belonged to the palace
of the king, is supported by 2 columns,
and leads to 3 other rooms, behind
which are the vestiges of other apartments:
and on the E. side besides a
large hypæthral court, were several
similar chambers, extending also to
the northern extremity of its precincts.
Sculptures.—On the architrave over
the corridor is the dedication of
Rameses II., to whom, in his character
of the Sun, under the symbolic form
of a hawk, Amen-ra is presenting the
emblem of life. Therein, after the
usual titles of the king, we are told
that “Barneses, the beloved of Amen,
has dedicated this work to his father,
Amen-ra, king of the gods, having
made additions for him to the temple
of his father the king (fostered by Ra
and Truth), the Son of the Sun
(Sethi).” The whole of this part of
the building bears the name of
Rameses II., though his father is
represented in some of the sculptures
as taking part in the religious ceremonies,
and assisting in making offerings
to the deities of the temple he
had founded. “The temple of
Koorneh was, so to speak, haunted by
the memory of Rameses I. It was
the memory of this king that the
faithful came to evoke on certain days
prescribed by the rite. The mummy
itself reposed afar off, deep down in
the hypogeum of Bab el-Molook, just
as in the mastabas of the ancient
empire, the mummy reposed at the
bottom of an inaccessible well.” —
Mariette.
On the N. W. side of the inner wall
of this corridor, the arks or shrines of
queen Amés-Nofriare (or T-Nofriare),
and of Sethi, are borne each by 12
priests, in the “procession of shrines,”
attended by a fan-bearer and high
priest to the god of the temple; and
in a small tablet, added at a later
period, the king Ptah-se-Ptah is
represented in presence of Amen-ra,
Amés-Nofriaré, Sethi, and Rameses II.,
receiving the emblems of royal power
from the hands of the deity.
The most interesting sculptures are
in the lateral hall on the W. side,
which, with the 3 chambers behind
it, king Sethi dedicated to his father
Rameses I.; but dying before the
completion of the hall, his son Rameses
II. added the sculptures that
cover the interior and corridor in
front of it. Those within the front
wall, on the rt. hand entering the
door, represent, in the lower compartment,
king Rameses II. introduced
by Mandoo to Amen-ra, behind whom
stands his grandfather Rameses I.,
bearing the emblems of Osiris. Over
him we read: “The good God, Lord
of the world; son of the Sun, lord
of the powerful, Rameses deceased,
esteemed by the great God, Lord of
Abydus (i.e. Osiris).” Thoth, the
god of letters, notes off the years of
the panegyrics of the king on a palm-branch,
the symbol of a year. In the
compartment above this he is introduced
to the deity by Atmoo (Atum),
and by Mandoo (Munt), who, presenting
him with the emblem of life, says,
“I have accompanied you in order
that you may dedicate the temple to
your father Amen-ra.” In the compartment
over the door, 2 figures of
Rameses I., seated in sacred shrines,
receive the offerings or liturgies of his
grandson, one wearing the crown of
the upper, the other that of the lower
country. On the other side of the
door, the king is offering to Amen-ra,
Khonso, and Rameses I.; and on the
side walls King Sethi also partakes
of similar honours.
In the centre chamber Sethi officiates
before the statue of his father
placed in a shrine, like that before
mentioned; from which it is evident
that Rameses II. continued the dedications
to the first Rameses, which
had been commenced by his father,

as the hieroglyphics themselves state.
All the lateral chambers and the
hypaethral court are of Rameses II.;
and on the jambs of the side-doors in
the great hall the name of his son
Ptahmen, or Meneptah, was added in
the succeeding reign. Queen Amés
Nofriaré occurs again in the court;
and on the outside of the N.E. corner,
and on the fragment of a wall on the
other (S.W.) side, is an Ethiopian ox
and capricorn, which are brought by
some of the minor priests for the
service of the temple. Little else is
deserving of notice in this ruin, if we
except the statue and shrine of Amenra;
whose door the king has just
opened, previous to his performing
“the prescribed ceremonies” in
honour of the deity. In the hieroglyphics,
though much defaced, we
read, “Behold, I open… my father
Amen-ra.”

c. THE RAMESEUM OR MEMNONIUM.

On leaving the temple of Koorneh,
you follow the edge of the cultivated
land, passing near several stone fragments
and remains of crude-brick
walls. On the right hand are the
tombs of Drah Aboo 'l-Neggah, the
Assasséef, Dayr el Bahree, and Sheykh
Abd el-Koorneh. A short distance
after passing this last, you arrive at a
collection of important ruins, which
stand well out at the foot of the
neighbouring mountains. These are
the remains of the
Rameseum or Temple of Rameses
II., erroneously called the Memnonium,
and the tomb of Osymandyas. There
is, however, reason to suppose that it
was the Memnonium of Strabo, and
that the title of Miamum, attached
to the name of Rameses II., being
corrupted by the Greeks into Memnon,
became the origin of the word Memnonium
or Memnonia.
Plan.—For symmetry of architecture
and elegance of sculpture the
Memnonium may vie with any other
Egyptian monument. No traces are
visible of the dromos that probably
existed before the pyramidal towers
(A A), which form the façade of its
first area (c c)—a court whose breadth
of 180 ft., exceeding the length by
nearly 13 yards, was reduced to a
more just proportion by the introduction

PLAN OF THE RAMESEUM, OR MEMNONIUM.

of a double avenue of columns on
either side, extending from the towers
to the N. wall. In this area, on the

rt. of a fight of steps leading to the
next court, was a stupendous Syenite
Statue of Rameses II. (D), seated on a
throne, in the usual attitude of Egyptian
figures, the hands resting on his
Ness, indicative of that tranquillity
which he had returned to enjoy in
Egypt after the fatigues of victory.
But the hand of the destroyer has
levelled this monument of Egyptian
grandeur, whose colossal fragments lie
scattered round the pedestal: and its
shivered throne evinces the force used
for its destruction. If it is a matter
of surprise how the Egyptians could
transport and erect a mass of such
dimensions, the means employed for
its ruin are scarcely less wonderful;
nor should we hesitate to account
for the shattered appearance of the
lower part by attributing it to the
explosive force of powder, had that
composition been known at the supposed
period of its destruction. But
is this early destruction certain? The
throne and legs are completely destroyed,
and reduced to comparatively
small fragments, while the upper part,
broken at the waist, is merely thrown
back upon the ground, and lies in that
position which was the consequence
of its fall; nor are there any marks
of the wedge or other instrument
which should have been employed
for reducing those fragments to the
state in which they now appear. The
fissures seen across the head and in
the pedestal are the work of a later
period, when some of the pieces were
cut for millstones by the Arabs. To
say that this is the largest statue in
Egypt will convey no idea of the
gigantic size or enormous weight of
a mass which, from an approximate
calculation, exceeded, when entire,
nearly three times the solid contents
of the great obelisk of Karnak, and
weighed over 1000 tons.
A A, Towers of Propylon. B, Entrance. c c,
Area. D, Broken granite statue of Rameses II.
E, Entrance, between F F, the Pylon. G G,
2nd Area, with H H, Osiride columns. r and J,
Traces of Sculpture, K, Sculptures representing
the wars of Rameses II. L and M, Sphinxes.
N, O, P, Entrances into Q, The grand hall. R, S,
Pedestals for statues. T, Sculptured battle
scenes. U, Chamber with astronomical subject
on ceiling. V, Another chamber, with w, x,
Sculptured scenes. Y, Z, Other chambers.
No building in Thebes corresponds
exactly with the description given of
the tomb of Osymandyas by Hecatæus.
Diodorus, who quotes his work, gives
the dimensions of the first or outer
court, 2 plethra (181 ft. 8 in. Eng.),
agreeing very nearly with the breadth,
but not with the length, of that now
before us; but the succeeding court,
of 4 plethra, neither agrees with this,
nor can agree with that of any other
Egyptian edifice, since the plan of an
Egyptian building invariably requires
a diminution, but no increase, of dimensions,
from the entrance to the
inner chambers; and while the body
of the temple, behind the portico, retained
one uniform breadth, the areas
in front, and frequently the portico
itself, exceeded the inner portion of
it by their projecting sides. The
peristyle and “columns in the form
of living beings,” roofed colonnade,
sitting statues, and triple entrance
to a chamber supported by columns,
agree well with the approach to the
great hall of this temple: and the
largest statue in Egypt can only be
in the building before us. Yet the
sculptures to which he alludes remind
us rather of those of Medeenet
Háboo; and it is possible that either
Hecatæus or Diodorus may have united
or confounded the details of the two
edifices.
The second area (G G) is about
140 ft. by 170, having on the S. and
N. sides a row of Osiride pillars (H H).
connected with each other by two
lateral corridors of circular columns.
Three flights of steps lead to the
northern corridor (which may be called
the portico), behind the Osiride pillars,
the centre one having on each side a
black granite statue of Rameses II.,
the base of whose throne is cut to fit
the talus of the ascent.
Behind the columns of the northern
corridor, and on either side of the
central door of the great hall, is a
limestone pedestal, which, to judge
from the space left in the sculptures,
must have once supported the sitting
figure of a lion, or perhaps a statue
of the king. Three entrances (N O P)
open into the grand hall (Q), each
with a sculptured doorway of black
granite: and between the two first
columns of the central avenue, two
pedestals (R S) supported (one on either
side) two other statues of the king.
Twelve massive columns, 32 ft. 6 in.
high, without the abacus, and 21 ft.
3 in. circumference, form a double line

along the centre of this hall, and 18
of smaller dimensions (17 ft. 8 in. circumference),
to the rt. and l., complete
the total of the 48, which
supported its solid roof studded with
stars on an azure ground. To the
hall, which measures 100 ft. by 133,
succeeded 3 central (U V Z) and 6 lateral
chambers (Y Y Y Y Y Y), indicating by
a small flight of steps the gradual
ascent of the rock on which this
edifice is constructed. Of 9, 2. only
(U V) of the central apartments now
remain, each supported by 8 columns,
and each measuring about 30 ft. by
55; but the vestiges of their walls,
and the appearance of the rock, which
has been levelled to form an area
around the exterior of the building,
point out their original extent.
Sculptures.—The sculptures, much
more interesting than the architectural
details, have suffered much
more from the hand of the destroyer:
and of the many curious battle-scenes
which adorned its walls, 4
only now remain; though the traces
of another may be perceived behind
the granite colossus on the N. face of
the wall.
On the N. face of the eastern pyramidal
tower or propylon (A) is represented
the capture of several towns
from an Asiatic enemy, called in the
hieroglyphics the Khetus, now known
as the Hittites, whose chiefs are led
in bonds by the victorious Egyptians
towards their camp. Several of their
towns are introduced into the picture,
each bearing its name in hieroglyphic
characters, which state them to have
been taken in the 4th year of king
Rameses II. This important fact
satisfactorily shows that the early
part of the reigns of their most illustrious
monarchs was employed in extending
their conquests abroad, which
they returned to commemorate on the
temples and palaces their captives
assisted in constructing. And,
claiming the enjoyment of that
tranquillity their arms had secured,
they employed the remainder of their
reigns in embellishing their capital,
and in promoting the internal prosperity
of the country. Among early
nations cruelty, or at least harsh conduct
to an enemy, has ever been
looked upon as the attribute of a
conqueror; and the power of a monarch,
or the valour of a nation, was
estimated by the inexorability of their
character. Thus Achilles is to be
represented as “inexorabilis, acer, jura
neget sibi nata;” and the Egyptian
sculptors appear to have intended to
convey the same idea to the spectator;
confirming a remark of Gibbon, that
“conquerors and poets of every age
have felt the truth of a system which
derives the sublime from the principle
of terror.” In the scene before us, an
insolent soldier pulls the beard of his
helpless captive, while others wantonly
beat a suppliant; and the display of
this principle is the more striking, as
the Egyptians on other occasions have
recorded their humane treatment of
an enemy in distress. Beyond these is
a corps of infantry in close array,
flanked by a strong body of chariots;
and a camp, indicated by a rampart of
Egyptian shields, with a wicker gateway
guarded by four companies of
sentries, who are on duty in the inner
side, forms the most interesting object
in the picture. Here the booty taken
from the enemy is collected; oxen,
chariots, plaustra, horses, asses, sacks
of gold, represent the confusion incident
after a battle; and the richness
of the spoil is expressed by the weight
of a bag of gold, under which an ass
is about to fall. One chief is receiving
the salutation of a foot-soldier; another,
seated amidst the spoil, strings
his bow; and a sutler suspends a
water-skin on a pole he has fixed in
the ground. Below this a body of
infrantry marches homewards; and
beyond them the king, attended by
his fan-bearers, holds forth his hand to
receive the homage of the priests and
principal persons, who approach his
throne to congratulate his return. His
charioteer is also in attendance, and
the high-spirited horses of his car
are with difficulty restrained by three
grooms who hold them. Two captives
below this are doomed to be beaten by
four Egyptian soldiers; while they
in vain, with outstretched hands, implore

the clemency of their heedless
conqueror.
The sculptures on the gateway refer
to the panegyries) or assemblies, of
the king, to whom different divinities
are said to “give life and power” (or
“pure life”). Over this gate passes
a staircase, leading to the top of the
building, whose entrance lies on the
exterior of the E. side.
Upon the W. tower is represented a
battle, in which the king discharges
his arrows on the broken lines and
flying chariots of the enemy; and his
figure and car are again introduced,
on the upper part, over the smaller
sculptures. In a small compartment
beyond these, which is formed by the
end of the corridor of the area, he
stands armed with a battle-axe, about
to slay the captives he holds beneath
him, who, in the hieroglyphics above,
are called “the chiefs of the foreign
countries.” In the next compartment,
still wearing his helmet, he approaches
the temple attended by his sons, whose
names are enumerated, the fan-bearers
being Ameni-Khepskhef, Rameses,
and Prahiamentef, followed by the
others to the number in all of 23, of
whom the 13th is Meneptah, his successor;
and to this the hieroglyphics
before him allude.
On the N. face of the S.E. wall of
the 2nd Area (G G), is another historical
subject (K), representing Rameses
II. pursuing an enemy, whose
numerous chariots, flying over the
plain, endeavour to regain the river,
and seek shelter under the fortified
walls of their city, which is called in
the accompanying hieroglyphs Mapu-li,
a fort of the Khetas. And so
forcibly do the details of this picture
call to mind the battles of the Iliad,
that some of them might serve as
illustrations to that poem. In order
to check the approach of the Egyptians,
the enemy has crossed the river,
whose stream, divided into a double
fosse, surrounded the towered walls of
their fortified city, and opposed their
advance by a considerable body of
chariots; while a large reserve of infantry,
having crossed the bridges, is
posted on the other bank, to cover the
retreat or second their advance; but,
routed by the Egyptians, they are
forced to throw themselves back upon
the town, and many, in recrossing the
river, are either carried away by the
stream, or fall under the arrows of
the invaders. Those who have succeeded
in reaching the opposite bank
are rescued by their friends, who,
drawn up in three phalanxes (described
in the hieroglyphics as 8000
strong), witness the defeat of their
comrades, and the flight of the remainder
of their chariots. Some carry
to the rear the lifeless corpse of their
chief, who has been drowned in the
river, and in vain endeavour to restore
life, by holding his head downwards
to expel the water; and others implore
the clemency of the victor, and
acknowledge him their conqueror and
lord.
As in the sculpture on the propylon,
the enemy are called Khetas, the
name given by the Egyptians to the
great nation of Hittites, whose kings
established a powerful empire to the
N. of Syria. The scene in which Rameses
is represented charging the
enemy by himself, and forcing them
to recross the river, is the subject of
a long historical poem, carved on one
of the exterior walls of Karnak, and
on the N. face of the pylon of the
temple of Luxor. It is known as the
Poem of Pentaoor, and has been
translated by M. de Rougé; and into
English by Mr. Lushington ('Records
of the Past,' ii. 65). Eber in his wellknown
story, ‘Warda,’ has given an
able description of this remarkable
campaign.
Above these battle-scenes is a procession
of priests, bearing the figures
of the Theban ancestors of Rameses II.
The first of these is Menes; then a
king of the XIth Dynasty; and after
him those of the XVIIIth Dynasty.
The intermediate monarchs are omitted.
The remaining subjects are
similar to those in the coronation of
the king at Medeenet Háboo, where
the flight of the four carrier pigeons;
the king cutting ears of corn, afterwards
offered to the god of generation;
the queen; the sacred bull;

and the figures of his ancestors, placed
before the god, are more easily traced
from the greater preservation of that
building.
Beyond the W. staircase of the N.
corridor, the king kneels before
Amen-ra, Maut, and Khons or Khonso;
Thoth notes on his palm-branch the
years of the panegyries; and the Gods
Mandoo and Atmoo introduce Rameses
into the presence of that triad
of deities.
On the other side, forming the S.
wall of the Great Hall (Q), is a small
but interesting battle (T), where the
use of the ladder and of the testudo
throws considerable light on the mode
of warfare at that early period. The
town, situated on a lofty rock, is obstinately
defended, and many are hurled
headlong from its walls by the spears,
arrows, and stones of the besieged;
they, however, on the nearer approach
of the Egyptian king, are obliged to
sue for peace, and send heralds with
presents to deprecate his fury; while
his infantry, commanded by his sons,
are putting to the sword the routed
enemy they have overtaken beneath
the walls, where they had in vain
looked for refuge, the gates being
already beset by Egyptian troops.
One of the architraves in the Great
Hall presents a long inscription, purporting
that Amenmai Rameses has
made the sculptures (or the work)
for his father Amen-ra, king of the
gods, and that he has erected the
hall……of hewn stone, good
and hard blocks, supported by fine
columns (alluding, from their form, to
those of the central colonnade) in
addition to (the side) columns (being
similar to those of the lateral colonnades).
At the upper end of this hall,
on the north-west wall, the king receives
the falchion and sceptres from
Amen-ra, who is attended by the
goddess Maut; and in the hieroglyphics
mention is made of this
palace of Rameses, of which the
deity is said to be the guardian. We
also learn from them that the king is
to smite the heads of his foreign
enemies with the former, and with
the latter to defend or rule his country,
Egypt. On the corresponding
wall he receives the emblems of life
and power from Amen-ra, attended by
Khons, in the presence of the lion-headed
goddess. Below these compartments,
on either wall, is a procession
of the twenty-three sons of the
king; and on the west corner are
three of his daughters, but without
their names.
On the ceiling of the next chamber
(U) is an astronomical subject. On
the upper side of it are the twelve
Egyptian months, and at the end of
Mesoré a space seems to be left for
the five days of the epact, opposite
which is the rising of the Dog-star,
under the figure of Isis-Sothis. In
the hieroglyphics of the border of
this picture, mention is made of the
columns and of the building of this
chamber with “hard stone,” where
apparently were deposited the “books
of Thoth.” On the walls are sculptured
sacred arks, borne in procession
by the priests; and at the base of the
door leading to the next apartment is
an inscription, purporting that the
king had dedicated it to Amen, and
mention seems to be made of its being
beautified with gold and precious
ornaments. The door itself was of
two folds, turning on bronze pins,
which moved in circular grooves of
the same metal, since removed from
the stones in which they were fixed.
On the N. wall of the next and
last room that now remains, the king
is making offerings and burning incense,
on one side to Ptah and the
lion-headed goddess; on the other to
Ra (the sun), whose figure is gone.
Large tablets before him mention the
offerings he has made to different
deities. It has been conjectured that
Rameses II. was actually buried in
this temple. The tomb in the Bab el-Molook
which bears his name seems
to have been abandoned incomplete.
About 120 ft. to the E. of the outer
court and the front towers of the
Memnonium is the tank cased with
stone usually attached to the Egyptian
temples.
Other Ruins.—In the immediate

vicinity of the Rameseum are the
vestiges of another sandstone building,
the bases of whose columns scarcely
appear above the ground; and between
these two ruins are several pits,
of a later epoch, used for tombs by
persons of an inferior class.
There are also some remains to the
N. of the Memnonium built of crude
bricks, on which the names of Amennoo
het and Thothmes I. are associated
within one common cartouche,
and others have the names of Thothmes
III. and of Amenhotep II.
On the W. of the Memnonium are
other remains of masonry; and that
edifice is surrounded on three sides by
crude-brick vaults, which appear to
have been used for habitations. They
are probably of early Christian time.
Other vestiges of sandstone remains
are traced on both sides of these brick
galleries; and a short distance to the
W. are crude-brick towers and walls,
enclosing the shattered remains of a
sandstone edifice, which, to judge from
the stamp on the bricks themselves,
was erected during the reign of
Thothmes III. The total ruin of
these buildings may be accounted for
from the smallness of their size, the
larger ones being merely defaced or
partially demolished, owing to the
great labour and time required for
their entire destruction.
Below the squared scarp of the rock
to the W. of this are other traces of
sandstone buildings; and at the S. lie
two broken statues of Amenhotep III.
which once faced towards the palace
of Rameses II. They stood in the
usual attitude of Egyptian statues,
the left leg placed forward and the
arms fixed to the side. Their total
height was about 35 ft. They either
belonged to an avenue leading to the
temple at Kom el Hettán, or to the
edifice at a short distance beyond
them, which was erected by the same
Amenhotep, as we learn from the
sculptures on its fallen walls. These
consisted partly of limestone and
partly of sandstone; and, to judge
from the execution of the sculptures
and the elegance of the statues once
standing within its precincts, it was a
building of no mean pretensions.
Two of its sitting colossi represented
Amenhotep III.: the others, Meneptah,
the son and successor of Rameses
II. These last were apparently standing
statues in pairs, two formed of one
block, the hand of one resting on the
shoulder of the other; but their mutilated
condition prevents our ascertaining
their exact form, or the other
persons represented in these groups.
But an idea may be given of their
colossal size by the breadth across
the shoulders, which is 5 ft. 3 in.;
and though the sitting statues of
Amenhotep were much smaller, their
total height could not have been less
than 10 ft.
About 700 ft. to the S. of these
ruins is the Kom el Hettán, or the
“Mound of Sandstone,” which marks
the site of another temple of Amenhotep
III.; and, to judge from the
little that remains, it must have held
a conspicuous rank among the finest
monuments of Thebes. All that now
exists of the interior are the bases of
its columns, some broken statues, and
Syenite sphinxes of the king, with
several lion-headed figures of black
granite. About 200 ft. from the N.
corner of these ruins are granite statues
of the asp-headed goddess and
another deity, formed of one block, in
very high relief. In front of the door
are two large tablets (stelæ) of gritstone,
with the usual circular summits,
in the form of Egyptian shields, on
which are sculptured long inscriptions,
and the figures of the king and
queen, to whom Amen-ra and Ptah-Sokari
presents the emblems of life.
Beyond these a long dromos of 1100
ft. extends to the two sitting colossi,
which, seated majestically above the
plain, seem to assert the grandeur of
ancient Thebes.
Other colossi of nearly similar dimensions
once stood between these
and the tablets before mentioned;
and the fragments of two of them,
fallen prostrate in the dromos, are
now alone visible above the heightened
level of the alluvial soil.

d. THE COLOSSITHE VOCAL
MEMNON.

These two gigantic statues, commonly
called “the Colossi,” both represent
Amenhotep III., and no doubt
stood at the entrance of the temple of
that monarch, already mentioned, and
of which hardly anything remains.
They were of a coarse hard gritstone
mixed with chalcedonies, and were
both originally monoliths. They stood
on pedestals of the same material,
which in their turn rested on a built
sandstone foundation. The height of
the statues alone is about 50 ft.; but
with the pedestals they must have
stood more than 60 ft. above the surrounding
plain. At the time they
were erected, the ground immediately
surrounding them was desert. The
soil, which now rises to a height of
about 7 ft. above their base, has been
deposited by the Nile in the course of
the successive years which have since
elapsed. During the inundation they
are surrounded by water.
The northernmost of the two statues
is known as the Colossus of Memnon,
or the Vocal Statue of Memnon; and
was once the wonder of the ancients,
owing to the sound which it was said
to utter every morning at the rising
of the sun. Like the other, it was
a monolith; but it is conjectured to
have been partially thrown down by
the earthquake of B.C. 27, to which
Eusebius attributes the destruction of
so many of the monuments of Thebes.
Some authors, however, attribute its
mutilation to Cambyses, and others
to Ptolemy Lathyrus. The repairs,
effected by means of blocks of sandstone
placed horizontally in five layers,
and forming the body, head, and upper
part of the arms, were made in the
reign of Septimius Severus.
No record exists of the sound which
made the statue so famous having
been heard while it was entire. Strabo,
who visited it with Ælius Gallus,
the governor of Egypt, speaks of the
“upper part” having been “broken
and hurled down,” as he was told,
“by the shock of an earthquake,”
and says that he heard the sound, but
could “not affirm whether it proceeded
from the pedestal or from the
statue itself. or even from some of
those who stood near its base;” and
it appears, from his not mentioning the
name of Memnon, that it was not yet
supposed to be the statue of that
doubtful personage. But it was not
long before the Roman visitors ascribed
it to the “Son of Tithonus,” and
a multitude of inscriptions, the earliest
in the reign of Nero, and the most
recent in the reign of Septimius
Severus, testify to his miraculous
powers, and the credulity of the
writers.
Pliny calls it the statue of Memnon,
and Juvenal thus refers to it:—
“Dimidio magicæ resonant ubi Memnone
chordæ.”
Various opinions exist among modern
critics as to whether the sound this
statue was said to emit, and which is
described as resembling either the
breaking of a harp-string or the ring
of metal, was the result of a natural
phenomenon or of priestly craft.
Some say that the action of the rising
sun upon the cracks in the stone moist
with dew caused the peculiar sound
produced; while others declare that
it was a trick of the priests, one of
whom hid himself in the statue, and
struck a metallic-sounding stone there
concealed. The chief arguments in
favour of this last view are, that such
a stone still exists in the lap of the
statue, with a recess cut in the block
immediately behind it, capable of
holding a person completely screened
from view below, and, above all, the
suspicious circumstance that the
sound was heard twice or thrice by
important personages, like the Emperor
Hadrian,—
rejoicing (at the presence of the
emperor), it “uttered a sound a third
time,”—while ordinary people only
heard it once, and that sometimes not
until after two or three visits. The
fact however of there being no record
of the sounds having been heard when
the statue was entire or after it was
repaired, is very much in favour of

their having been produced by the
action of the hot sun on the cracks in
the cold stone, similar phenomena
being by no means uncommon.
The form of these colossi resembles
that mentioned by Diodorus in the
tomb of Osymandyas, in which the
figures of the daughter and mother
of the king stood on either side of
the legs of the larger central statue,
the length of whose foot exceeded 7
cubits, or 3 1/2 yards. Such indeed is
the size of their feet; and on either
side stand attached to the throne the
wife and mother of Amenhotep, in
height about 6 yards. The traces of
a smaller figure of his queen are also
seen between his feet.
The proportions of the colossi are
about the same as of the granite
statue of Rameses II.; but they are
inferior in the weight and hardness of
their materials. They measure about
18 ft. 3 across the shoulders: 16 ft. 6
from the top of the shoulder to the
elbow; 10 ft. 6 from the top of the
head to the shoulder; 17 ft. 9 from
the elbow to the finger's end; and
19 ft. 8 from the knee to the plant of
the foot. The thrones are ornamented
with figures of the god Nilus, who,
holding the stalks of two plants peculiar
to the river, is engaged in binding
up a pedestal or table, surmounted
by the name of the Egyptian monarch
—a symbolic group, indicating his
dominion over the upper and lower
countries. A line of hieroglyphics
extends perpendicularly down the
back, from the shoulder to the pedestal,
containing the name of the
Pharaoh they represent.
Three hundred feet behind these
are the remains of another Colossus of
similar form and dimensions, which,
fallen prostrate, is partly buried by
the alluvial deposits of the Nile.
Corresponding to this are Four
Smaller Statues
, formed on one block,
and representing male and female
figures, probably of Amenhotep and
his queen. They are seated on a
throne, now concealed beneath the
soil, and two of them are quite defaced.
Their total height, without the head,
which has been broken off, is 8 ft. 3 in.,
including the pedestal, and they were
originally only about 9 ft. 10 in. high.
They are therefore a strange pendant
for a colossus of 60 ft., and, even
making every allowance for Egyptian
symmetrophobia, it is difficult to
account for their position. But the
accumulation of the soil, their position
on sandy ground, and their general
direction, satisfactorily prove that they
occupy their original site.
Eighty-three yards behind these are
the fragments of another Colossus,
which, like the last, has been thrown
across the dromos it once adorned;
and if the nature of its materials did
not positively increase its beauty, their
novelty, at least, called on the spectator
to admire a statue of an enormous
mass of crystallized carbonate
of lime. From this point you readily
perceive that the ground has sunk
beneath the vocal statue, which may
probably be partly owing to the
numerous excavations that have been
made at different times about its
base.
This dromos, or paved approach to
the temple, was probably part of the
Royal Street” mentioned in some
papyri found at Thebes; which, crossing
the western portion of the city
from the temple, communicated, by
means of a ferry, with that of Luxor,
founded by the same Amenhotep, on
the other side of the river; as the
great dromos of sphinxes, connecting
the temples of Luxor and Karnak,
formed the main street in the eastern
district of Thebes.
Continuing to the westward along
the edge of the desert, you arrive at
the extensive mounds and walls of
Christian hovels, which encumber and
nearly conceal the ruins of Medeenet
Háboo, having passed on the way the
remains of other ancient buildings
which once covered the intermediate
space. Among these the most remarkable
are near the N.N.E. corner of the
mounds, where, besides innumerable
fragments of sandstone, are the vestiges
of two large colossi. In these
Christian remains are some small

crude-brick pointed arches of very
early time.

e. MEDEENET HÁBOO.

The ruins at Medeenet Háboo are
undoubtedly one of the four temples
mentioned by Diodorus; the other
three being those of Karnak, Luxor,
and the Memnonium or first Rameseum.
Strabo, whose own observation,
added to the testimony of several
ruins still traced on the W. bank, is
far more authentic, affirms that Thebes
“had many temples, the greater part
of which Cambyses defaced.”
During the empire the village of
Medeenet Háboo was still inhabited,
and the early Christians converted
one of the deserted courts of the great
temple into a church, having its nave
separated from the aisles by columns,
and terminating in an apse at the E.
end; the idolatrous sculptures of their
Pagan ancestors being concealed by
a coating of clay. The small apartments
at the back part of this building
were appropriated by the priests of
the new religion, and houses of crude
brick were erected on the ruins of the
ancient village, and within the precincts
of the temple. The size of the
church and extent of the village prove
its Christian population to have been
considerable, and show that Thebes
ranked among the principal dioceses
of the Coptic Church. But the invasion
of the Arabs put a period to its
existence, and its timid inmates, on
their approach, fled to the neighbourhood
of Esneh; from which time
Medeenet Háboo ceased to hold a
place among the villages of Thebes.
Another interesting Coptic church
was recently discovered by M. Maspero
under a tomb in Thebes. It is a
subterranean church, dating from the
fifth century, and contains a number
of very interesting inscriptions. These
are in the Coptic, Greek, and Syriac
languages. Among them are the
explanations of Cyril of Alexandria
with reference to the different natures
of Christ.
The small Temple of Thothmes III.
—Before this temple is an open court,
about 80 ft. by 125, whose front gate
bears on either jamb the figure and
name of Autocrator, Caesar, Titus,
Ælius, Adrianus, Antoninus, Eusebes.
Besides this court, Antoninus Pius
added a row of eight columns, united
(four on either side) by intercolumnar
screens, which form its N. end; and
his name again appears on the inner
faces of the doorway, the remaining
part being unsculptured. On the N.
of the transverse area, behind this
colonnade, are two pyramidal towers,
apparently of Roman date, and a
pylon uniting them, which last bears
the names and sculptures of Ptolemy
Lathyrus on the S., and of Dionysius
on the N. face. To this succeeds a
small hypæthral court and pyramidal
towers of the Ethiopian Pharaoh who
defeated Sennacherib; which, previous
to the Ptolemaic additions,
completed the extent of the elegant
and well-proportioned vestibules of
the original temple. This court was
formed by a row of four columns on
either side, the upper part of which
rose considerably above the screens
that united them to each other and to
the towers at its northern extremity.
Here Nectanebo has effaced the name
of Tirhakah and introduced his own:
and the hieroglyphics of Ptolemy
Lathyrus have usurped a place
among the sculptures of the Ethiopian
monarch.
Passing these towers you enter another
court, 60 ft. long, on either side
of which stood a row of nine columns,
with a lateral entrance to the right
and left. The jambs of one of these
gateways still remain. They are of
red granite, and bear the name of
Petamunoph.
The corresponding door is, like the
rest of the edifice, of sandstone from
the quarries of Silsilis. This court
may be called the inner vestibule, and
to it succeeds the original edifice, composed
of an isolated sanctuary, surounded
on three sides by a corridor
of pillars, and on the fourth by six
smaller chambers.
The original founder of this part of
the building was Amen-noo-het, or

Hatasoo, who raised the great obelisk
of Karnac; Thothmes II. continued or
altered the sculptures; and Thothmes
III. completed the architectural details
of the sanctuary and peristyle.
To these were afterwards added the
hieroglyphics of Rameses III. on the
outside of the building, to connect, by
similarity of external appearance, the
temple of his predecessors with that
he erected in its vicinity. Some restorations
were afterwards made by
Ptolemy Physeon; and, in addition
to the sculptures of the two front
doorways, he repaired the columns
which support the roof of the peristyle.
Hakóris, of the XXIXth Dynasty, had
previously erected the wings on either
side; and with the above-mentioned
monarchs he completed the number of
eleven who added repairs or sculptures
to this building. A stone gateway
was also added at the N.E.
extremity of this temple. The doorway
is curious, from being made in
the fashion of those of the early time
of the Pyramid kings. About 170 ft.
N. by E. from this is an underground
passage, upwards of 60 ft. in length
and 2 ft. 5 in. in breadth, descending
to a small tank, also of hewn stone,
and still containing water, about 8 ft.
deep; and what is most remarkable
is that the water is perfectly sweet,
though in the midst of mounds
abounding in nitre.
About 90 ft. from the E. side of the
inner court is an open Tank or basin,
cased with hewn stone, whose original
dimensions may have been about 50 ft.
square; beyond which, to the S., are
the remains of a large crude-brick
Wall, with another of stone, crowned
by battlements in the form of Egyptian
shields, and bearing the name of
Rameses V., by whom it was probably
erected. This wall turns to the
N. along the E. face of the mounds,
and appears to have enclosed the
whole of the temenos surrounding the
temples, and to have been united to
the E. side of the front tower of the
great temple. Close to the tank is a
broken statue, bearing the ovals of
Rameses II. and of Taia, the wife of
Amenhotep III., his ancestor; and
several stones, inscribed with the name
of this Rameses, have been used in
the construction of the gateway of
Lathyrus and the adjoining towers.
Great Temple and Palace of Rameses
III.
Plan and General Features.
The S. or front part consists of a
building once isolated, but since
united by a wall with the towers of
the last-mentioned temple, before
which two lodges form the sides of its
spacious entrance. Still farther to
S. of this stood a raised platform,
strengthened by other masonry, bearing
the name of the founder of the
edifice, similar to those met with
before the dromos of several Egyptian
temples. Within, or to the N. of the
lodges, is the main part of the building,
resembling a pyramidal tower on
either hand, between which runs an
oblong court, terminated by a gateway,
which passes beneath the chambers
of the inner or N. side. The whole
of this edifice constituted what has
been called the Palace of the King;
and in addition to several chambers
that still remain, several others stood
at the wings, and in the upper part,
which have been destroyed. The
sculptures on the walls of the apartment
over the gate on the 3rd floor are
the more interesting, as they are a
singular instance of the internal decorations
of an Egyptian palace. Here
the king is attended by the ladies of
his family, some of whom present him
with flowers, or wave before him fans
and flabella; and a favourite is
caressed, or invited to divert his
leisure hours with a game of draughts;
but they are all obliged to stand in
his presence, and the king alone is
seated on an elegant fauteuil amidst
his female attendants—a custom still
prevalent throughout the East. The
queen is not among them; and her
oval is always blank, wherever it
occurs, throughout the building.
The same game of draughts is represented
in the grottos of Beni
Hassan, which are of a much earlier
period, in the reign of Osirtasen, of
the XIIth Dynasty. That it is not
chess is evident from the men being

all of similar size and form, varying
only in colour on opposite sides of the
board. They have sometimes human
heads; and some have been found of
a small size, with other larger pieces,
as if there was a distinction, like our
kings and common men in draughts.
The visitor should make a point of
climbing up and viewing the Colossi
and the Rameseum from the windows
of the chamber.
On the front walls the conqueror
smites his suppliant captives in the
presence of Amen-ra, who, on the N.E.
side, appears under the form of Ra,
the physical Sun, with the head of
a hawk. An ornamental border, representing
“the chiefs” of the vanquished
nations, European, Asiatic,
and African, extends along the base
of the whole front; and on either side
of the oblong court or passage of the
centre Rameses offers similar prisoners
to the deity of the temple, who
says, “Go, my cherished and chosen,
make war on foreign nations, besiege
their forts, and carry off their people
to live as captives.” Here ornamented
balustrades, supported each by
four figures of African and Northern
barbarians, remind us of Gothic taste;
and the summit is a row of shields,
the usual battlements of Egyptian
architecture.
From the palace a dromos of 265 ft.
led to the Great Temple, whose front
is formed of two lofty pyramidal
towers or propyla, with a pylon or
doorway between them (A), the entrance
to the first area or propylæum.
The sculptures over this First Pylon
refer to the panegyrics of the king,
whose name, as at the palace of
Rameses II., appears in the centre.
Those on the W. tower represent the
monarch about to slay two prisoners
in the presence of Ptah-Sokari, others
being bound below and behind the
figure of the god. In the lower part
is a tablet, commencing with the 12th
year of Rameses; and on the E. tower
the same conqueror mites similar
captives before Amen-ra. Beneath
are other names of the conquered
cities or districts of this northern
enemy; and at the upper part of the
propylon a figure of colossal proportions
grasps a group of suppliant
captives his uplifted arm is about to
sacrifice.
Passing through 'the pylon, you
enter the First Court (B), about 110 ft.

TEMPLE OF MEDEENET HABOO, THEBES. 1311 B.C.

by 135 ft. having on the right or N. side
a row of seven Osiride pillars, and on
the left or S. eight circular columns,
with bell-formed capitals, representing,
not as is erroneously supposed,
the full-blown lotus, but the papyrus
plant.
We now come to two other pyramidal
towers with a pylon between
them (c).
On the W. tower Rameses III. leads
the prisoners he has taken to Amenra,
who presents the falchion of vengeance,
which the king holds forth
his hand to receive; and on the E.
is an inscription beginning with the
“eighth year of his beloved Majesty”
Rameses III. It has been translated
by M. de Rougé, and contains the
names of a large number of the Mediterranean
nations of antiquity, including
the Pelasgi, the Teucri, the
Siculi, the Daunians and the Oscans,
who seem to have been confederated
against Egypt with the Asiatics.
This Second Pylon (c) is of red
granite, the hieroglyphics on whose
jambs are cut to the depth of two or
three inches. Those on the outer face
contain offerings to different deities,
among which we find a representation
of the gateway itself; and at the base
of the jambs are four lines, stating
that “Rameses made these buildings
for his father Amen-ra, (and) erected
for him (this) fine gateway of good
blocks of granite stone, the door itself
of wood embellished with plates
of pure gold… for his good name
(Rameses), Amen rejoicing to behold
it.”
The summit of this pylon is crowned
by a row of sitting cynocephali (or
apes), the emblems of Thoth.
We now enter the Second Court (D),
one of the finest which adorn the
various temples of Egypt. Its dimensions
are about 123 ft. by 133 ft.,
and its height from the pavement to
the cornice 39 ft. 4 in. It is surrounded
by an interior peristyle,
whose east and west sides are supported
by five massive columns, the
south by a row of eight Osiride
pillars, and the north by a similar
number, behind which is an elegant
corridor of circular columns, whose
effect is unequalled by any other in
Thebes. The colours, too, add greatly
to the beauty of its columns, of whose
massive style some idea may be formed,
from their circumference of nearly
23 ft. to a height of 24 ft., or about
3 diameters. In contemplating the
grandeur of this court, one cannot but
be struck with the paltry appearance
of the Christian colonnade that encumbers
the centre; or fail to regret
the demolition of the interior of
the temple, whose architraves were
levelled to form the columns that
now spoil the architectural effect of
the area: and the total destruction of
the Osiride figures once attached to
its pillars. But if the rigid piety, or
the domestic convenience, of the early
Christians destroyed much of the
ornamental details of this grand
building, we are partly repaid by the
interesting sculptures they unintentionally
preserved beneath the clay
or stucco with which they concealed
them. The architraves present the
dedication of the palace of “Rameses
at Thebes,” which is said to have
been built of hard blocks of sandstone,
and the adytum to have been
beautified with the precious metals.
Mention is also made of a doorway of
hard stone, ornamented in a manner
similar to the one before noticed.
In the E. wall of the corridor of the
court is a secret passage, which leads
to an opening over the side door, as
if intended to enable those within to
look down and annoy any assailants
from without; and another passage is
on the W. wall; but both appear to
have been made after the building
was completed.
The remainder of the temple to the
W. was until lately completely buried
beneath the ruins of the Coptic village.
A doorway leads into a hall of
columns (E) now in a state of ruin,
but which must have been magnificent
when first erected. To this succeeds
two smaller columnar halls leading to
the sanctuary of the temple, (F) on
either side are an immense number of
small chambers, the walls of which
are adorned with the ordinary religious
scenes. The colours of the
paintings in some of these chambers
are still very bright.
In the corner of one of them a large
number of little Osiride figures, all
broken, were found under the pavement;
they had been placed there

probably for the purpose of consecrating
the place.
The head and forepart of several
lions project, at intervals, from below
the cornice of the exterior of the
building, whose perforated mouths,
communicating by a tube with the
summit of the roof, served as conduits
for the rain-water which occasionally
fell at Thebes. Nor were they neglectful
of any precaution that might
secure the paintings of the interior
from the effects of rain; and the
joints of the stones which formed the
ceiling being protected by a long
piece of stone, let in immediately
over the line of their junction, were
rendered impervious to the heaviest
storm. For showers fall annually in
Thebes: perhaps on an average four
or five in the year: and every eight
or ten years heavy rains fill the
torrent-beds of the mountains, which
run to the banks of the Nile. It was
a storm of this kind that did much
damage to Belzoni's tomb.
Square apertures were also cut at
intervals in the roofs, the larger ones
intended for the admission of light,
the smaller probably for suspending
the chains that supported lamps for
the illumination of the interior.
Sculptures.—The sculptures on the
walls of this temple are very interesting.
Some of them have been referred
to in passing through it, but others
merit a more detailed description.
We will begin with those on the
Interior of the Second Court.—The
upper compartments of the N., S., E.,
and W. sides of this court are occupied
with what may be called Ceremonial
Scenes.
Beginning with the E., or
rather N.E. side (to the right on entering),
Rameses is borne in his shrine, or
canopy, seated on a throne ornamented
by the figures of a lion, and a sphinx
which is preceded by a hawk. Behind
him stand two figures of Truth
and Justice, with outspread wings.
Nine Egyptian princes, whose names
are above them, sons of the king,
bear the shrine; officers wave flabella
around the monarch; and others, of
the sacerdotal order, attend on either
side, carrying his arms and insignia.
Four others follow: then six of
the sons of the king, behind whom
are two scribes and eight attendants
of the military class, bearing stools
and the steps of the throne. In
another line are members of the
sacerdotal order, four other of the
king's sons, fan-bearers, and military
scribes; a guard of soldiers bringing
up the rear of the procession. Before
the shrine, in one line, march six officers,
bearing sceptres and other insignia;
in another, a scribe reads aloud
the contents of a scroll he holds unfolded
in his hands, preceded by two
of the king's sons and two distinguished
persons of the military and
priestly orders. The rear of both
these lines is closed by a pontiff, who,
turning round towards the shrine,
burns incense before the monarch;
and a band of music, composed of the
trumpet, drum, double pipe, and crotala,
or clappers, with choristers,
forms the van of the procession. The
king, alighted from his throne, officiates
as priest before the statue of
Amen-Khem, or Amen-ra Generator;
and, still wearing his helmet, he presents
libations and incense before the
altar, which is loaded with flowers
and other suitable offerings. The
statue of the god, attended by officers
bearing flabella, is carried on a palanquin,
covered with rich drapery, by
twenty-two priests; and behind it
follow others, bringing the table and
the altar of the deity. Before the
statue is the sacred bull, followed by
the king on foot, wearing the cap of
the “lower country.” Apart from the
procession itself stands the queen as
a spectator of the ceremony; and before
her a scribe reads a scroll he has
unfolded. A priest turns round to
offer incense to the white bull, and
another, clapping his hands, brings up
the rear of a long procession of hieraphori,
carrying standards, images, and
other sacred emblems; and the foremost
bear the statues of the king's
ancestors. This part of the picture
refers to the Coronation of the king,
who, in the hieroglyphics, is said to
have “put on the crown of the upper

and lower countries;” which the
carrier-pigeons, flying to the four
sides of the world, are to announce
to the gods of the south, north, east,
and west.
In the next compartment the president
of the assembly reads a long
invocation, the contents of which are
contained in the hieroglyphic inscription
above; and the six ears of corn,
which the king, once more wearing
his helmet, has cut with a golden
sickle, are held out by a priest towards
the deity. The white bull, and the
images of the king's ancestors, are
deposited in his temple, in the presence
of Amen-Khem, the queen still
witnessing the ceremony, which is
concluded by an offering of incense
and libation made by Rameses to the
statue of the god.
In the lower compartments on this
side is a procession of the arks of
Amen-ra, Maut, and Khonso, which
the king, whose ark is also carried
before him, comes to meet. In another
part the gods Seth and Hor-Hat
pour alternate emblems of life and
power (or purity) over the king; and
on the south wall he is introduced
by several divinities into the presence
of the patron deities of the temple.
In the upper part of the W. wall
Rameses makes offerings to Ptah-Sokari
and to Kneph; in another
compartment he burns incense to the
ark of Sokari; and near this is a
tablet relating to the offerings made
to the same deity. The ark is then
borne by 16 priests, with a pontiff
and another of the sacerdotal order in
attendance. The king then joins in
another procession formed by eight
of his sons and four chiefs, behind
whom two priests turn round to offer
incense to the monarch. The hawk,
the emblem of the king, or of Horus,
precedes them, and 18 priests carry
the sacred emblem of the god Notre-Atmoo,
which usually accompanies
the ark of Sokari.
On the S. wall marches a long
procession, composed of hieraphori,
bearing different standards, thrones,
arks, and insignia, with musicians,
who precede the king and his attendants.
The figure of the deity is not
introduced, perhaps intimating that
this forms part of the religious pomp
of the corresponding wall, and, from
the circumstance of the king here wearing
the pshent, it is not improbable it
may also allude to his coronation.
On the N. wall the king presents
offerings to different gods, and below
is an ornamental kind of border, composed
of a procession of the king's
sons and daughters. Four of the
former, his immediate successors, bear
the asp or basilisk, the emblem of
majesty, and have the kingly ovals
added to their names.
The lower compartments of the N.,
S., E., and W. sides of this court are
filled with Historical or Battle Scenes.
They commence on the S.W. wall (to
the l. on entering).
Here Rameses, standing in his car,
which his horses at full speed carry
into the midst of the enemy's ranks,
discharges his arrows on their flying
infantry. The Egyptian chariots join
in the pursuit, and a body of their
allies assist in slaughtering those who
oppose them, or bind them as captives.
The right hands of the slain
are then cut off as trophies of victory.
The sculptures on the lower part of
the W. wall are a continuation of the
scene. The Egyptian princes and
generals conduct “captive chiefs”
into the presence of the king. He is
seated at the back of his car, and the
spirited horses are held by his attendants
on foot. Besides other trophies,
large heaps of hands are placed before
him, which an officer counts one by
one as the other notes down their
number on a scroll, each heap containing
3000, and the total indicating
the returns of the enemy's slain.
The number of captives, reckoned 1000
in each line, is also mentioned in the
hieroglyphics above, where the name
of the Liboo (Libyans) or Rebo points
out the nation against whom this war
was carried on. A long hieroglyphic
inscription is placed over the king,
and a still longer tablet, occupying a
great part of this wall, refers to the
exploits of the Egyptian conqueror,
and bears the date of his fifth year.
The suite of this historical subject
continues on the S. wall. The king,
returning victorious to Egypt, proceeds
slowly in his car, conducting in
triumph the prisoners he has made,
who walk beside and before it, three
others being bound to the axle. Two
of his sons attend as fan-bearers, and
the several regiments of Egyptian infantry,
with a corps of their allies,
under the command of three other of
these princes, marching in regular
step and in the close array of disciplined
troops, accompany their king.
He arrives at Thebes, and presents his
captives to Amen-ra and Maut, the
deities of the city, who compliment
him, as usual, on the victory he has
gained, and the overthrow of the
enemy he has “trampled beneath his
feet.”
Exterior of the Building.—But if
the sculptures of the area arrest the
attention of the antiquary, or excite
the admiration of the traveller, those
of the exterior of the building are no
less wonderful, and the north and east
walls are covered with a profusion of
the most varied and interesting subjects,
which may also be divided into
ceremonial and historical.
The Ceremonial Scenes are on the
W. wall, which is entirely covered
with a list of the Festivals celebrated
during the year in the temple by
Rameses III., and on the upper part
of the N. wall where the king is
making suitable offerings to the gods.
The Historical or Battle Scenes are
on the N. and E. walls.
Beginning at the east end of the
W. wall, there are a succession of 10
pictures, arranged in compartments,
illustrating the history of a war waged
by Rameses III. against the Libyans
or Rebo, and the Takkaro or Tochari.
1st Picture: A trumpeter assembles
the troops, who salute the king as he
passes in his car. Rameses advances
at a slow pace in his chariot, attended
by fan-bearers, and preceded by his
troops: and a lion running at the side
of the horses reminds us of the account
given of Osymandyas, who was
said to have been accompanied in
war by that animal. Other instances
of it are met with in Nubia, among
the sculptures of the second Rameses.
2nd Picture: The enemy are
the Tamahoo, a Libyan tribe, who
await the Egyptian invaders in the
open field; the king presses forwards
in his car, and bends his bow against
the enemy. Several regiments of
Egyptian archers in close array advance
on different points, and harass
them with showers of arrows. The
chariots rush to the charge, and a body
of allies maintains the combat, hand
to hand, with the enemy, who are at
length routed, and fly before their
victorious aggressors. 3rd Picture:
Some thousands are left dead on the
field, whose tongues, and hands, being
cut off, are brought by the Egyptian
soldiers as proofs of their success.
Three thousand five hundred and
thirty-five hands and tongues form
part of the registered returns; and two
other heaps, and a third of tongues,
containing each a somewhat larger
number, are “brought” under the
superintendence of the chief officers,
like David's trophies, “to the king.”
(Cf. 1 Sam. xviii. 27, and 2 Kings x.
8.) 4th Picture: The monarch then
alights from his chariot and distributes
rewards to his troops, and harangues
the generals, while his military secretaries
draw up an account of the number
of spears, bows, swords and other
arms taken from the enemy, which are
laid before them; and mention seems
to be made in the hieroglyphics of the
horses that have been captured. 5th
Picture
: Rameses then proceeds in his
car, having his bow and sword in one
hand and his whip in the other, indicating
that his march still lies through
an enemy's country. The van of his
army is composed of a body of chariots;
the infantry, in close order, preceding
the royal car, constitute the centre,
and other similar corps form the wings
and rear. The hieroglyphic text contains
little but praises addressed to
the king and thanks to the gods. 6th
Picture
: The troops are again summoned
by sound of trumpet to the
attack of another enemy, the Takkuro,
and the Egyptian monarch gives
orders for charging the hostile army

drawn up in the open plain. The troops
of the enemy, alter a short conflict, are
routed, and retreat in great disorder.
The women endeavour to escape with
their children on the first approach of
the Egyptians, and retire in plaustra
drawn by oxen. The flying chariots
denote the greatness of the general
panic. 7th Picture: The conquering
Egyptians advance into the interior
of the country. Here, while passing a
large morass, the king is attacked by
several lions, one of which, transfixed
with darts and arrows, he lays breathless
beneath his horse's feet; another
attempts to fly towards the jungle, but
receiving a last and fatal wound,
writhes in the agony of approaching
death. A third springs up from behind
his car, and the hero prepares to
receive and check its fury with his
spear. It was, perhaps, in this country
that Amenhotep III. killed the 110
lions, which, according to the inscription
on a scarabseus in the Boolak
Museum, he boasts of having slain in
the first 10 years of his reign. Below
this group is represented the march of
the Egyptian army, with their allies,
the Shairetana, the Shaso or Shos?
(supposed to be Arabs), and a third
corps, armed with clubs, whose form
and character are very imperfectly
preserved.
8th Picture: Here we have the only
representation existing in Egypt of a
naval engagement. The Egyptians
attack the hostile ships with a fleet of
galleys, which in their shape differ
essentially from those used on the
Nile. The general form of the vessels
of both combatants is very similar: a
raised gunwale, protecting the rowers
from the missiles of the foe, extends
from the head to the stern, and a lofty
poop and forecastle contain each a
body of archers; but the head of a
lion, which ornaments the prows of
the Egyptian galleys, serves to distinguish
them from those of the enemy.
The former bear down their opponents,
and succeed in boarding them and
taking several prisoners. One of the
hostile galleys is upset, and the slingers
in the shrouds, with the archers and
spearmen on the prows, spread dismay
among the few who resist. The king,
trampling on the prostrate bodies of
the enemy, and aided by a corps of
bowmen, discharges from the shore a
continued shower of arrows: and his
attendants stand at a short distance
with his chariots and horses, awaiting
his return. The scene of this engagement
is doubtful, but it is evident that
it took place either close to the coast
or at the mouth of a river. 9th Picture:
The conquering army leads in triumph
the prisoners captured in the naval
fight, and the amputated hands of the
slain are laid in heaps before the military
chiefs. Though this custom
savours of barbarism, the humanity of
the Egyptians is very apparent in the
above conflict; where the soldiers on
the shore and in the ships do their
utmost to rescue their enemies from a
watery grave. The king distributes
rewards to his victorious troops; and
then commences the march back to
Egypt. On the way, he stops at a
town called in the hieroglyphics, Migdolen-Rameses-hakou.
10th Picture:

Triumphal return of the king to
Thebes conducting his prisoners in
triumph, and making offerings to the
Theban triad, Amenra, Maut, and
Khons. The text contains his address
to the divinities, and their response,
and also an address of the prisoners to
the king imploring his clemency, in
order that they may live and celebrate
his courage and virtues.
On the remaining part of the E. wall,
to the S. of the second propylon, another
war is represented. In the first
picture the king, alighted from his
chariot, armed with his spear and
shield, and trampling on the prostrate
bodies of the slain, besieges the fort of
an Asiatic enemy, whom he forces to
sue for peace. In the next, he attacks
a larger town surrounded by water.
The Egyptians fell the trees in the
woody country which surrounds it,
probably to form testudos and ladders
for the assault. Some are already applied
by their comrades to the walls,
and, while they reach their summit,
the gates are broken open, and the
enemy are driven from the ramparts,
or precipitated over the parapet, by

the victorious assailants, who announce
by sound of trumpet the capture
of the place.
In the third compartment, on the
N. face of the first propylon, Rameses
attacks two large towns, the upper one
of which is taken with little resistance,
the Egyptian troops have entered it
and gained possession of the citadel.
In the lower one, the terrified inhabitants
are engaged in rescuing their
children from the approaching danger,
by hurrying them into the ramparts
of the outer wall. The last picture
occupies the upper or N. end of the
E. side, where the king presents his
prisoners to the gods of the temple.
Other Ruins. - Six hundred and fifty
feet S.W. of the pavilion of Medeenet
Háboo is a small Ptolemac Temple,
built of sandstone, dedicated to Thoth.
In the adytum are some curious
hieroglyphical subjects, which have
thrown great light upon the names
and succession of the Ptolemies who
preceded Physcon, or Euergetes II.
This monarch is here represented
making offerings to four of his predecessors,
Soter, Philadelphus, Philopator,
and Epiphanes, each name being
accompanied by that of their respective
queens. It is here, in particular,
that the position of the
Ptolemaïc cognomen, as Soter, Philadelphus,
and others, satisfactorily
proves that it is after, and not in the
name, that we must look for the title
which distinguished each of these
kings; nor will any one conversant
with hieroglyphics fail to remark the
adoption of these cognomens in each
prenomen of a succeeding Ptolemy; a
circumstance analogous to the more
ancient mode of borrowing, or quartering,
from the prenomens of an earlier
Pharaoh some of the characters that
composed that of a later king. The
building, whose total length does not
exceed 48 ft., consists of a transverse
outer court, and three smaller successive
chambers, communicating with
each other.
Near it, to the W., was an artificial
basin, now forming a pond of irregular
shape during the inundation, and
surrounded on three Sides by mimosas;
beyond which, to the N.W. and W.,
are the traces of some ruins, the remains
of Egyptian and Copt tombs,
and the limited enclosure of a modern
church.
A low plain, once a lake, extends
from the S.W. of this temple to the
distance of 7300 ft., by a breadth of
3000 ft., whose limits are marked by
high mounds of sand and alluvial
soil; on one series of which stands the
modern village of Kom el-Byrat,the
two southernmost presenting the
vestiges of tombs, and the relics of
human skeletons. This lake is called
Birket Háboo. That the tradition,
which makes this a real lake is
founded on fact, is evident from the
appearance of the mounds of alluvial
soil around it, which are taken from
its excavated bed; and, if required,
we might find an additional proof in
the upper part of the mounds on the
desert side having on their summit
some of the stones that form the substratum
beneath the alluvial deposit.
The excavation was evidently made
after the mud of the inundation had
accumulated considerably upon the
Theban plain: and though a smaller
lake had probably been made there
before, this larger one may not date
till after the age of Amenhotep III.,
his colossi being based on the stony
soil of the desert, which the inundation
did not then reach.
The lake was intended for the same
purpose as that of Memphis; and it
is not impossible that the tombs on
its southern shores may have been of
those offenders who were doomed to
be excluded from a participation in
the funeral honours which the pious
enjoyed in the consecrated mansions
of the dead on the N. side of this
Acherusian lake:—“Contum errant
annos.”
Three thousand feet S.W. of the
western angle of the lake is a small
temple of Roman date
, bearing the
name of Hadrian, and of Antoninus
Pius, who completed it, and added
the pylon in front. Its total length is
45 ft., and breadth 53: with an isolated
sanctuary in the centre, two
small chambers on the N.E., and three

on the S.W. side; the first of which
contains a staircase leading to the
roof. In front stand two pylons, the
outermost one being distant from the
door of the temple about 200 ft.

f. DAYR EL-MEDEENEH.

Between the Rameseum and the
mountains, and behind the old cemetery
called Koornet Murraee, is a small
temple erected to Ptolemy Philopator.
It is called Dayr el-Medeeneh, from
having been the abode of the early
Christians. It measures 60 ft. by 33.
Being left unfinished, it was completed
by Physcon, or Euergetes II.,
who added the sculptures to the walls
of the interior, and part of the architectural
details of the portico; the
pylon in front bearing the name of
Dionysius. The vestibule is ornamented
with two columns supporting
the roof, but it is unsculptured. The
corridor is separated from this last
by intercolumnar screens, uniting, on
either side of its entrance, one column
to a pilaster, surmounted by the head
of Athor. On the E. wall of this
corridor or pronaos, Ptolemy Philometer,
followed by “his brother, the
god,” Physcon, and the queen Cleopatra,
makes offerings to Amenra;
but the rest of the sculptures appear
to present the names of Physcon alone,
who adopted, on his brother's death,
the name and oval of Philometer,
with the additional title of “god
Soter.”
A staircase, lighted by a window of
peculiar form, once led to the roof;
and the back part of the naos consists
of three parallel chambers. The
centre one, or adytum, presents the
sculptures of Philopator on the back
and half the side walls, which last
were completed by the 2nd Euergetes;
as recorded in a line of hieroglyphics
at the junction of the first and subsequent
compartments. Amenra, with
Maut and Khonso, Athor and Justice,
share the honours of the adytum;
but the dedication of Philopator decides
that the temple was consecrated
to the Egyptian Aphrodite, “the president
of the west.” In the eastern
chamber Philopator again appears in
the sculptures of the end wall, where
Athor and Justice hold the chief
place: while Amenra and Osiris, the
principal deities in the lateral compartments,
receive the offerings of
Euergetes II. The name of Augustus
also appears at the back of the naos.
In the western chamber the subjects
are totally different from any
found in the temples of Thebes; and
appear to have a sepulchral character.
Here Philopator pays his devotions to
Osiris and Isis; on the E. side Physcon
offers incense to the statue of
Khem, preceded by Anubis, and followed
by the ark of Sokari; and on
the opposite wall is the judgment
scene, frequently found on the papyri
of the Egyptians. Osiris, seated on
his throne, awaits the arrival of those
souls which are ushered into Amenti:
the four genii stand before him on a
lotus-blossom; and the female Cerberus
is there, with Harpocrates seated on
the crook of Osiris. Thoth, the god
of letters, presents himself before the
king of Hades, bearing in his hand
a tablet, on which the actions of the
deceased are noted down; while Horus
and Aroeris are employed in weighing
the good deeds of the judged against
the ostrich-feather, the symbol of
Justice or Truth. A cynocephalus,
the emblem of Thoth, is seated on the
top of the balance. At length comes
the deceased; who advances between
two figures of the goddess, and bears
in his hand the symbol of truth, indicating
his meritorious actions, and
his fitness for admission to the presence
of Osiris. The forty-two assessors,
seated above, in two lines, complete
the sculptures of the W. wall;
and all these symbols of death seem
to show that the chamber was dedicated
to Osiris, in his peculiar character
of judge of the dead.
Several enchorial and Coptic inscriptions
have been written in the
interior, and on the outside of the
vestibule, whose walls, rent by the
sinking of the ground and human
violence, make us acquainted with a
not uncommon custom of Egyptian
architects,—the use of wooden dovetailed

cramps, which connected the
blocks of masonry. Wood, in a country
where very little rain falls, provided
the stones are closely fitted
together, lasts for ages, as may be
seen by these sycamore cramps; and
the Egyptians calculated very accurately
the proportionate durability
of different substances, and the situation
adapted to their respective properties.
Hence, they preferred sandstone
to calcareous blocks for the
construction of their temples, a stone
which, in the dry climate of Egypt,
resists the action of the atmosphere
much longer than either limestone or
granite; but they used calcareous
substructions beneath the soil, because
they were known to endure where the
contact with the salts would speedily
decompose the harder but less durable
granite.
The walls surrounding the court of
this temple present a peculiar style
of building, the bricks being disposed
in concave and convex courses forming
a waving line, which rises and falls
alternately along their whole length.

g. DAYR EL-BAHREE.

After passing the hill of Sheykh
Abd el Koorneh, at the northern extremity
of the Assasseéf, and immediately
below the cliffs of the Libyan
mountain, is an ancient temple, whose
modern name, Dayr el-Bahree, or
“the Northern Convent,” indicates its
having served, like most of the temples
at Thebes, as a church and monastery
of the early Christians.
An extensive dromos of 1600 ft.,
terminated at the S.E. by a sculptured
pylon, whose substructions alone
mark its site, led in a direct line
between a double row of sandstone
sphinxes to the entrance of its square
enclosure; before which were two
obelisks. Following the same line,
and 200 ft. to the N.W. of this gateway,
is an inclined plane of masonry,
leading to a granite pylon in front of
the inner court; and about 150 ft.
from the base of this ascent a wall at
right angles with it extends on either
side to the distance of 100 ft., having
before it a peristyle of eight polygonal
columns, forming a covered corridor.
The plan on which this temple was
constructed is curious, and differs entirely
from that of any other in Egypt.
It was built in stages up the slope
of the mountain, flights of steps leading
from one court to the other. The
builder, or rather the designer, of this
temple was Amen-noo-het, or Hatasoo,
the sister of Thothmes II. and
Thothmes III. Her name appears
constantly in various parts of the
building, though nearly always it has
been defaced, and replaced by that
of Thothmes III. Considering the
material of which this temple is built,
a beautiful marble-like limestone, it
is astonishing that it should have
escaped destruction, were it not that
the tombs of the Assasseéf afforded
a quarrying ground as rich and more
accessible.
Sculptures.—On the S.W. side of
the lowest court of the temple-the
one first arrived at from the E.-are
some interesting sculptures, unfortunately
much disfigured. Several regiments
of Egyptian soldiers are
marching with boughs in their hands,
bearing the weapons of their peculiar
corps, and forming a triumphal procession
to the sound of the trumpet
and drum. An ox is sacrificed, and
tables of offerings to the deity of
Thebes are laid out in the presence
of the troops. The rest of the sculptures
are destroyed, but the remains
of two boats prove that the upper
compartments were finished with the
same care as the others. The other
walls contain remains of similar
sculpture, and among them a series of
hawks in very prominent relief, about
the height of a man, surmounted by
the asp and globe, the emblems of the
sun and of the king as Pharaoh.
The granite pylon at the upper extremity
of the inclined ascent bears,
like the rest of the building, the name
of the founder, Hatasoo, which, in
spite of the architectural usurpation
of the third Thothmes, is still traced
in the ovals of the jambs and lintel.
We read, after the name of Thothmes

III. (but still preceded by the square
title, banner, or escutcheon of Pharaoh
Hatasoo), “She has made this work
for her father, ‘Amen-ra, lord of the
regions’ (i.e. of Upper and Lower
Egypt): she has erected to him this
flue gateway,—'Amen protects' the
work,—of granite; she has done this
(to whom) life is given for ever.'”
Beyond this pylon, following the
same line of direction, is a small area
of a later epoch, and another granite
pylon, being the entrance of a large
chamber to which it is attached.
There are some very beautiful sculptures
at the back of the temple, a
short distance from the great granite
pylon. An expedition to the coast
of the Red Sen, and the “holy land”
of Fount, appears to have reached its
termination. On the S. wall is depicted
the arrival of captives and
hostages bearing tribute. Among
other things they bring trees whose
roots are tied up in baskets. The
scene appears to be laid on the seashore,
along which a detachment of
Egyptian troops advances to receive
the new-comers. It is curious to note
the fishes appearing through the
transparent water. The scene is continued
on the W. wall. On the upper
compartment is represented a fresh
arrival of prisoners. Below, the
Egyptian fleet is drawn up on the
sea-shore, while the process of embarking
various merchandise as
tribute is being carried on. The fish
are again depicted with the same
curious effect.
Vaulted Chambers.—These and
other inner chambers are made to
imitate vaults, like the one still
remaining on the outside; but they
are not on the principle of the arch,
being composed of blocks placed
horizontally, one projecting beyond
that immediately below it, till the
uppermost two meet in the centre;
the interior angles being afterwards
rounded off to form the vault. The
Egyptians were not, however, ignorant
of the principle or use of the arch;
and the reason of their preferring one
of this construction probably arose
from the difficulty of repairing an
injured vault in the tunnelled rock,
and the consequences attending the
decay of a single block. Nor can
any one, in observing the great superincumbent
weight applied to the
haunches, suppose that this style of
building is devoid of strength, and
of the usual durability of an Egyptian
fabric, or pronounce it to be ill-suited
to the purpose for which it was
erected, the support of the friable
rock of the mountain, within whose
excavated base it stood, and which
threatened to let fall its crumbling
masses on its summit.
The entrance to these vaulted chambers
is by a granite doorway; and the
first, which measures 30 ft. by 12, is
ornamented with sculptures that throw
great light on the names of some of
the members of the Thothmes family.
Here Thothmes I., and his queen
Ames, accompanied by their young
daughter, but all “deceased” at the
time of its construction, receive the
adoration and offerings of Hatasoo,
and of Thothmes III., followed by his
daughter Re-ni-nofre.” The niche and
inner door also present the name
of the former, effaced by the same
Thothmes, whose name throughout
the interior usurps the place of his
predecessor's. To this succeeds a
smaller apartment, which, like the
2 lateral rooms with which it communicates,
has a vaulted roof; and
beyond is an adytum of the late date
of Ptolemy Physcon.
Several blocks, used at a later period
to repair the wall of the inner or upper
court, bear hieroglyphics of various
epochs, having been brought from
other structures; among which the
most remarkable are—one containing
the name of King Horus, the predecessor
of Rameses I., and mentioning
“the father of his father's father's
father,” Thothmes III., who was, in
reality, his fourth ancestor; and
another of the 4th year of Meneptah,
the son of Rameses II.
On the E. side of the dromos, and
about 600 ft. from the pedestals of
the obelisks, are the fragments of
granite sphinxes and calcareous

columns of an early epoch, at least
coëval with the founder of these
structures; and a short distance
beyond them is a path leading over
the hills to the Tombs of the Kings.
Dayr el Bahree has acquired a
great additional interest of late years,
as it was at this point that M. Maspero
made a most important discovery
of royal mummies in 1881. For some
time he had suspected that the Arabs
knew of some treasure-house, from
whence they were selling antiquities
of value, and it was owing to a
dispute between the Arabs during the
course of M. Maspero's investigation
which led to the revelation of the
hiding-place. This was a pit not
far from Sheykh Abd el Koorneh, in
which were deposited the mummies of
a number of kings, principally of the
XIXth and XXth Dynasties, and
other royal personages. These mummies
appear to have been brought
from the original tombs in the Valley
of the Tombs of the Kings at some
long distant period, and deposited at
Dayr el Bahree for safety. They
have now all been removed to the
museum at Boolak (see p. 202).

h. TOMBS OF THE KINGS.

These are known in Arabic under
their title of Bab or Bibán el-Molook,
the “Gate” or “Gates of the Kings.”
The distance from the river is about
3 miles. The road lies past the temple
of Koorneh, and then enters a barren
desolate valley, utterly blasted by the
heat of the sun. Near the entrance
to the gorge in which are the tombs
usually visited, belonging entirely to
the XIXth and XXth Dynasties, a
branch path leads westward to another
valley, in which are the tombs of the
XVIIIth Dynasty. See Plan (p. 481).
The principle of construction in the
royal tombs at Bab el-Molook is
entirely different from that which
regulated the ordinary Egyptian
mausoleum (see p. 87). Here there is
no mastabah, and no exterior chambers,
in which the surviving relations
met at certain seasons to pay their
respects to the dead. The “Tombs of
the Kings” at Bab el-Molook are all
excavated out of the rock, and consist
of long inclined passages, with here
and there halls and small chambers,
penetrating to a greater or less distance
into the heart of the mountain.
Once the royal mummy was safely
deposited in its resting-place, the
entrance was built up, and the surrounding
rock levelled, so as to leave
no trace of the existence of the tomb.
It has been conjectured by M. Mariette
that the representatives, to a certain
extent, of the mastabhs, are to be
found at Thebes in the temples that
line the edge of the desert, and which
were cenotaphs, in which the memory
of the king was preserved and
worshipped.
The number of tombs now open in
the principal or Eastern Valley is 25,
but they are not all kings' tombs;
some are those of princes and high
functionaries. Strabo speaks of
having seen about 40, but he included
in this number those of the western
valley, and, perhaps, the Tombs of
the Queens.
It would be impossible to give a
detailed account of all these tombs,
which indeed differ very much in interest,
or to offer any very satisfactory
explanation of the paintings they contain.
It will be sufficient to notice
at length a few of the most important.
They are known to the guides by the
numbers affixed to them by Sir Gardner
Wilkinson, but two or three of
the best worth seeing have special
designations. No. 1 is in the first
short valley, branching to the right;
No. 2 is the first in the main valley.
No. 17. Tomb of Sethi I., commonly
called Belzoni's Tomb.—This tomb is
in the second short valley to the left.
It was discovered by Belzoni, and is
by far the most remarkable for its
sculpture and the state of its preservation.
Plan.—This is far from being well
regulated, and the deviation from one
line of direction greatly injures its
general effect; nor does the rapid descent
by a staircase of 24 ft. in perpendicular
depth on a horizontal length
of 29, convey so appropriate an idea

of the entrance to the abode of death
as the gradual talus of others of these
sepulchres. To this staircase succeeds
a passage of 181/2 ft. by 9, including
the jambs; and passing another door,
a second staircase descends in horizontal
length 25 ft. Beyond, 2 doorways
and a passage of 29 ft. bring
you to an oblong chamber 12 ft. by
14, where a pit, filled up by Belzoni,

Plan of Rock-cut Tomb of Sethi I.

once appeared to form the utmost limit
of the tomb. Part of its inner wall
was composed of blocks of hewn stone,
closely cemented together, and covered
with a smooth coat of stucco, like the
other walls of this excavated catacomb,
on which was painted a continuation
of those subjects that still
adorn its remaining sides.
Independent of the main object of
this pit, so admirably calculated to
mislead, or at least to check the search
of the curious and the spoiler, another
advantage was thereby gained. The
preservation of the inferior part of the
tomb was effectually guaranteed from
the destructive inroad of the rain-water,
whose torrent its depth completely
intercepted. A storm some years ago,
by the havoc caused in the inner
chambers, sadly demonstrated the
fact.
The hollow sound of the wall of
masonry above mentioned, and a small
aperture, betrayed to Belzoni the secret
of its hidden chambers; and a palm-tree,
supplying the place of the more
classic ram, soon forced the intermediate
barrier. The breach displayed
the splendour of the succeeding
hall, at once astonishing and delighting
its discoverer, whose labours were
so gratefully repaid. But this was not
the only part of the tomb that had
been closed. The outer door was also
blocked up with masonry; and the
staircase before it was concealed by
accumulated fragments, and by the
earth that had fallen from the hill
above. And it was the sinking of the
ground at this part, from the water
that had soaked through into the tomb,
that led the peasants to suspect the
secret of its position, which was revealed
by them to Belzoni.
The four pillars of the first hall
beyond the pit, which support a roof
about 26 ft. square, are decorated, like
the whole of the walls, with highly-finished
and well-preserved sculptures.
From their vivid colours they appear
but the work of yesterday. Near the
centre of the inner wall a few steps
lead to a second hall, of similar dimensions,
supported by two pillars, but
left in an unfinished state. The
sculptors had not yet commenced the
outline of the figures the draughtsmen
had but just completed. It is here
that the first deviations from the
general line of direction occur; which
are still more remarkable in the staircase
that descends at the southern
corner of the first hall.
To this last succeed two passages,
and a chamber 17 ft. by 14, communicating

by a door not quite in the centre
of its inner wall, with the grand hall,
which is 27 ft. square, and supported
by six pillars. On either side of this
hall is a small chamber, opposite the
angle of the first pillars. The upper
and terminates in a vaulted saloon,
19 ft. by 30, in whose centre stood an
alabaster sarcophagus, now in the
Soane Museum. It was upon the immediate
summit of an inclined plane,
which, with a staircase on either side,
descends into the heart of the argillaceous
rock for a distance of 150 ft.
When Belzoni opened this tomb it extended
much farther; but the rock,
which from its friable nature could
only be excavated by supporting the
roof with scaffolding, has since fallen,
and curtailed a still greater portion
of its original length. The inscriptions
on the sarcophagus have been
translated. The mummy of Sethi I.
is in the Boolak Museum.
This passage, like the entrance of
the tomb and the first hall, was closed
and concealed by a wall of masonry,
which, coming even with the base of
the sarcophagus, completely masked
the staircase, and covered it with an
artificial floor.
It seems hardly probable that the
sacred person of an Egyptian king
would be exposed in the inviting situation
of these sarcophagi, especially
when they took so much care to conceal
the bodies of inferior subjects.
It is true the entrance was closed, but
the position of a monarch's tomb would
be known to many besides the priesthood,
and traditionally remembered by
others. Some, in later times, might
not be proof against the temptation of
such rich plunder. The priests must
at least have foreseen the chance of
this; and we know that many of the
tombs were plundered in very early
times. Several, too, were the resting-places
of later occupants; while some
were burnt and reoccupied (probably
at the time of the Persian invasion);
and others were usurped by Greeks.
Some of the sepulchres of the kings
were open from a very remote period,
and seen by Greek and Roman visitors,
who mention them in inscriptions
written on their walls, as the syringes
or tunnels—a name by
which they are described by Pausanias.
Diodorus, who, on the authority of
the priests, reckons 47, says that 17 remained
in the time of Ptolemy Lagus.
From this we may infer that 17 were
then open, and that the remaining 30
were closed in his time. Strabo too
supposes their total number to have
been about 40.
A small chamber and two niches
are made in the N.W. wall of this
part of the grand hall; and at the
upper end a step leads to an unfinished
chamber, 17 ft. by 43, supported by a
row of four pillars. On the S.W. are
other niches, and a room about 25 ft.
square, ornamented with two pillars
and a broad bench (hewn, like the
rest of the tomb, in the rock) around
three of its sides, 4 ft. high, with four
shallow recesses on each face, and
surmounted by an elegant Egyptian
cornice. It is difficult to understand
the purport of it, unless its level summit
served as a repository for the
mummies of the inferior persons of
the king's household; but it is more
probable that these were also deposited
in pits.
The total horizontal length of this
catacomb is 320 ft., without the inclined
descent below the sarcophagus,
and its perpendicular depth 90. But,
including that part, it measures 470,
and in depth about 180 ft. to the
spot where it is closed by the fallen
rock.
Sculptures.—Although when this
tomb was discovered by Belzoni it had
already, at some remote period, been
opened and violated, possibly at the
time when the mummy of the king
was removed to Dayr el Bahree, no
injury had been done to the sculptures
on the walls, and when he first saw it
every bas-relief was perfect, and the
paintings as vivid and fresh as the
day they were done. Fifty years'
exposure to the tender mercies of the
savan, the antiquity-monger, and the
tourist, have considerably spoilt its
original beauty, and the thoughtful
visitor cannot fail to mark with regret

PLAN OF THE TOMBES OF THE KINGS (BAB EL-MOLOOK).

the spoliations and defacements to
which it has been subjected.
The sculptures in the First Passage
consist of lines of hieroglyphics relating
to the king Sethi, or Osirei,
“the beloved of Ptah,” who was the
father of Rameses II. and the occupant
of the tomb. In the staircase which
succeeds it are on one side 37, on the
other 39 genii of various forms; among
which a figure represented with a
stream of tears issuing from his eyes
is remarkable from having the (Coptic)
word rimi, “lamentation,” in the
hieroglyphics above.
In the Second Passage are the boats
of Kneph; and several descending
planes, on which are placed the valves
of doors, probably referring to the
descent of Amenti. The goddess of
Truth or Justice stands at the lower
extremity. In the small chamber over
the pit the king makes offerings to
different gods, Osiris being the principal
deity. Athor, Horus, Isis, and
Anubis, are also introduced.
On the pillars of the First Hall the
monarch stands in the presence of
various divinities, who seem to be receiving
him after his death. But one
of the most interesting subjects here is
a procession of four different people,
of red, white, black, and again white
complexions, four by four, followed by
Ra, “the sun.” The four red figures
are Egyptians, designated under the
name rôt, “mankind;” the next, a
white race, with blue eyes, long bushy
beards, and clad in a short dress, are
a northern nation, with whom the
Egyptians were long at war, and
appear to signify the nations of the
north; as the negroes (called Nahsi)
the south; and the four others, also a
white people, with a pointed beard,
blue eyes, feathers in their hair, and
crosses or other devices about their
persons, and dressed in long flowing
robes, the east. These then are not
in the character of prisoners, but a
typification of the four divisions of
the world, or the whole human race,
and are introduced among the sculptures
of these sepulchres in the same
abstract sense as the trades of the
Egyptians in the tombs of private
individuals; the latter being an epitome
of human life, as far as regarded
that people themselves, the former
referring to the inhabitants of the
whole world.
On the end wall of this hall is a fine
group, which is remarkable as well for
the elegance of its drawing as for the
richness and preservation of the
colouring. The subject is the introduction
of the king, by Horus, into
the presence of Osiris and Athor.
Though not the most striking, the
most interesting drawings in this tomb
are those of the Second Hall, which
was left unfinished; nor can any one
look upon those figures with the eye
of a draughtsman, without paying a
just tribute to the freedom of their
outlines. In preparing the wall to
receive the bas-reliefs it was sometimes
customary to portion it out into
squares; but it was not the method
universally adopted for drawing
Egyptian figures. We see in this
and other places that they were
sketched without that prescribed
measurement; and it is probable that
this was principally used when a copy
was made of an original drawing—a
method adopted by us at the present
day. Here we find that the position
of the figures was first traced with a
red colour by the draughtsman; when,
having been submitted to the inspection
of the master-artist, those parts
which he deemed deficient in proportion
or correctness of attitude were
altered by him in black ink (as appears
to have been the case in the figures
here designed); and in that state they
were left for the chisel of the sculptor.
But on this occasion the death of the
king or some other cause prevented
their completion: though their unfinished
condition, so far from exciting
our regret, affords a satisfactory opportunity
of appreciating the skill of
the Egyptian draughtsmen. We here
see the bold decided line which was
the aim of all antique drawing. In
these figures some of the lines are a
foot or a foot and a quarter in length;
as from the shoulder to the elbow, or
the knee to the instep; and done
at a single stroke; while the red

lines of the inferior artist, and his
pentimefiti, show, that, though he
occasionally failed in the perfect
use of his pencil, he was instructed
in the same bold style of drawing,
and in the importance of one
long-continuous outline. In the
sculptures critically examined, we
may trace the handiwork of several
artists.
The subjects in the succeeding
Passages refer mostly to the liturgies
or ceremonies performed to the deceased
monarch. In the Square
Chamber
beyond them the king is
seen in the presence of the deities
Athor, Horus, Anubis, Isis, Osiris,
Nofre - Atmoo, and Ptah. The
“Liturgy of Ra,” which occurs on the
passage walls of this tomb, as well as
in other royal tombs in this valley,
has been translated, and is worthy of
study.
The Grand Hall contains numerous
subjects, among which are a series of
mummies, each in its own repository,
whose folding-doors are thrown open;
and it is probable that all the parts of
these catacombs refer to different
states through which the deceased
passed, and the various mansions of
Hades or Amenti. The representations
of the door-valves at their
entrance tend to confirm this opinion;
while many of the subjects relate to
the life and actions of the deceased,
and many are similar to those in the
'Book of the Dead.'
In the Side Chambers are some
mysterious ceremonies connected with
fire, and various other subjects.
The Transverse Vaulted Part of the
Great Hall
, or Saloon of the Sarcophagus,
ornamented with a profusion
of sculpture, is a termination worthy
of the rest of this grand sepulchral
monument. In the chamber on the
l., with the broad bench, are various
subjects; some of which, especially
those appearing to represent human
sacrifices, may refer to the initiation
into the higher mysteries, by the
supposed death and regeneration of
the Neophyte.
No.11. Tomb of Rameses III., commonly
called Bruce's, or The Harpers'
Tomb.
—This tomb was discovered by
the traveller Bruce, hence one of its
names. The other appellation is derived
from the famous picture in one
of the chambers of the men playing
the harp. The execution of the sculptures
is inferior to that in No. 17, but
the nature of the subjects is more
interesting.
Plan.—The line of direction in this
catacomb, after the first 130 ft., is interrupted
by the vicinity of the adjoining
tomb, and makes, in consequence,
a slight deviation to the rt. of 13 ft.,
when it resumes the same direction
again for another 275, which give it a
total length of 405 ft. Its plan differs
from that of No. 17, and the rapidity
of its descent is considerably less,
being perpendicularly only 31 ft.
Beyond the grand hall of the sarcophagus
are three successive passages,
in the last of which are benches intended
apparently for the same purpose
as those of the lateral chamber
in No. 17, to which they are greatly
inferior in point of taste. The large
granite sarcophagus was removed
hence by Mr. Salt.
Sculptures.—This tomb is much
defaced, and the nature of the rock is
unfavourable for sculpture.
The subjects in the first passage,
after the recess to the right, are similar
to those of No. 17, and are supposed to
relate to the descent to Amenti; but
the figure of Truth, and the other
groups in connection with that part
of them, are placed in a square niche.
The character of the four people in
the first hall differs slightly from those
of the former tomb; four blacks, clad
in African dresses, being substituted
instead of the Egyptians, though the
same name, Rôt, is introduced before
them.
The most interesting sculptures are
in the small chambers on either side
of the first two passages, since they
throw considerable light on the style
of the furniture and arms, and consequently
on the manners and customs,
of the Egyptians.
Left side (on entering), 1st Chamber

Here we have kitchen scenes. The
principal groups, though much defaced,
may yet be recognised. Some
are engaged in slaughtering oxen, and
cutting up the joints, which are put
into caldrons on a tripod placed over
a wood fire; and in the lower line a
man is employed in cutting a leather
strap he holds with his feet—a practice
still common throughout the
East. Another pounds something for
the kitchen in a large mortar; another
apparently minces the meat; and a
pallet, suspended by ropes running in
rings fastened to the roof, is raised
from the ground, to guard against the
intrusion of rats and other depredators.
On the opposite side, in the upper
line, two men knead a [substance with
their feet; others cook meat, pastry,
and broth, probably of lentils, which
fill some baskets beside them; and of
the frescoes in the lower line sufficient
remains to show that others are
engaged in drawing off, by means of
syphons, a liquid from vases before
them. On the end wall is the process
of making bread; but the dough is
kneaded by the hand, and not, as
Herodotus and Strabo say, by the
feet; and small black seeds being
sprinkled on the surface of the cakes,
they are carried on a wooden pallet to
the oven.
The 2nd Chamber merely contains
emblems and deities. In the 3rd
Chamber
are birds, and some productions
of Egypt, as geese and quails,
eggs, pomegranates, grapes, with other
fruits and herbs, among which last is
the ghúlga, or Periploca secamone of
Linnäus, still common in the deserts
of Egypt, and resembling in form the
ivy, which is unknown in the country.
The figures in the lower line are of
the god Nilus.
The principal figures of the Last
Chamber
are two harpers playing on
instruments of not inelegant form
before the god Moui, or Hercules.
From these the tomb received its
name. One (if not both) of the minstrels
is blind. (See Wilkinson's
'Ancient Egyptians,' vol. i. pl. ix. bis.)
Right side (on entering), 1st
Chamber.
Several boats are seen with
square chequered sails, some having
spacious cabins, and others only a
seat near the mast. They are richly
painted, and loaded with ornaments;
and those in the lower lines have the
mast and yard lowered over the cabin.
(See Wilkinson's ‘Ancient Egyptians
vol. ii. pl. xiii.)
The 2nd Chamber contains the
various arms and warlike implements
of the Egyptians; among which are
knives, quilted helmets, spears, daggers,
quivers, bows, arrows, falchions,
coats of mail, darts, clubs, and standards.
On either side of the door is
a black cow with the head-dress of
Athor, one accompanied by hieroglyphics
signifying the N., the other by
those of the S.; intimating that these
are the legends of Upper and Lower
Egypt. The blue colour of some of
the weapons suffices to prove them to
have been of steel.
The 3rd Chamber has chairs of the
most elegant form, covered with rich
drapery, highly ornamented, and in
admirable taste (see Wilkinson's ‘Ancient
Egyptians,’ vol. i., pl. x.): nor
can any one who sees the beauty of
Egyptian furniture refuse for one
moment his assent to the fact that this
people, at the time of the XXth
Dynasty, were greatly advanced in
the arts of civilisation and the comforts
of domestic life. Sofas, couches,
vases of porcelain and pottery, copper
utensils, caldrons, rare woods, printed
stuffs, leopard-skins, baskets of a very
neat and graceful shape, and basins
and ewers, whose designs vie with the
productions of the cabinet-maker,
complete the interesting series of
these paintings.
The 4th Chamber contains agricultural
scenes, in which the inundation
of the Nile passing through the
canals, sowing and reaping wheat, and
a grain which from its height and
round head appears to be the doora or
sorghum, as well as the flowers of the
country, are represented. But, however
successful the Egyptians may
have been in seizing the character of
animals, they failed in the art of
drawing trees and flowers, and their
coloured plants would perplex the

most profound botanist equally with
the fanciful productions of an Arabic
herbarium.
In the 5th Chamber are different
forms of the god Osiris having various
attributes.
In the 6th Chamber are rudders and
sacred emblems.
Each of these small apartments has
a pit, now closed, where it is probable
that some of the officers of the king's
household were buried; in which case
the subjects on the walls refer to the
station they held; as, the chief cook,
the superintendent of the royal boats,
the armour-bearer, the stewards of the
household, and of the royal demesne,
the priest of the king, the gardener,
hieraphoros, and minstrel.
In this tomb are several Greek
graffiti, a fact which shows that it was
one of those open during the reign of
the Ptolemies.
No. 9. Tomb of Rameses VI., called,
as we learn from the graffiti inside, by
the Romans the Tomb of Memnon, probably
from its being the handsomest
then open; though the title of Miamun
given to the occupant of this
catacomb, in common with many other
of the Pharaohs, may have led to this
error. It was greatly admired by the
Greek and Roman visitors, who expressed
their satisfaction by ex-votos,
and inscriptions of various lengths,
and who generally agree that, having
“examined these syringes,” or tunnels,
that of Memnon had the greatest
claim upon their admiration; though
one morose old gentleman, of the name
of Epiphanius, declares he saw nothing
to admire, “but the stone,” meaning
the sarcophagus, near which he wrote
his laconic and ill-natured remark:
. In the second passage,
on the left going in, immediately
under the figure of a wicked soul
returning from the presence of Osiris
in the form of a pig, is a longer
inscription of an Athenian, the Daduchus
of the Eleusinian mysteries,
who visited Thebes in the reign of
Constantine. This was about sixty
Years before they were abolished by
Theodosius, after having existed for
nearly 1800 years. The inscription is
also curious, from the writer's saying
that he visited the “a long
time after the divine Plato.”
The total length of this tomb is
342 ft., with the entrance passage,
the perpendicular depth below the surface
24 ft. 6 in.; and in this gradual
descent, and the regularity of the
chambers and passages, consists the
chief beauty of its plan. The general
height of the first passages is 12 and
13 ft., about two more than that of
No. 11, and three more than that of
No. 17.
The sculptures differ from those of
the above-mentioned tombs, and the
figures of the four nations are not
introduced in the first hall; but many
of the ceilings present many very interesting
astronomical subjects.
In the last passage before the hall
of the sarcophagus, the tomb No. 12
crosses over the ceiling, at whose side
an aperture has been forced at a later
epoch. The sarcophagus, which is of
granite, has been broken and lies in
a ruined state near its original site.
The vaulted roof of the hall presents
an astronomical subject, and is richly
ornamented with a profusion of small
figures. Indeed all the walls of this
tomb are loaded with very minute
details, but of small proportions.
No 8. Tomb of Meneptah, the son of
Rameses II. On the left side, entering
the passage, is a group of very
superior sculpture, representing the
king and the god Ra.
The style of this tomb resembles
that of No. 17, and others of that
epoch; and in the first hall are figures
of the four nations. The descent is
very rapid, which, as usual, takes off
from that elegance so much admired
in No. 9: and the sculptures, executed
in intaglio on the stucco, have suffered
much from the damp occasioned
by the torrents, which, when the rain
falls, pours into it with great violence
from a ravine near its mouth. Its
length, exclusive of the open passage
of 40 ft. in front, is 167 ft. to the end
of the first hall, where it is closed by

sand and earth. This was also one of
the seventeen mentioned by Diodorus.
It will be remembered that the record
in Exodus xiv. and xv. does not
expressly say that Pharaoh perished
in the Red Sea. A dirge, in which
he is spoken of as dying at a good old
age, may be found in ‘Records of the
Past,’ iv. 49.
No. 6. Tomb of Rameses IX. The
sculptures differ widely from those of
the preceding tombs. In the third
passage they refer to the generative
principle. The features of the king
are peculiar, and from the form of the
nose, so very unlike that the usual
Egyptian face, there is no doubt that
their sculptures actually offer portraits.
On the inner wall of the last
chamber, or hall of the sarcophagus,
is a figure of the child Harpocrates,
seated in a winged globe; and from
being beyond the sarcophagus, which
was the abode of death, it appears to
refer to the well-known idea that dissolution
was followed by reproduction
into life. The total length of this
tomb is 243 ft., including the outer
entrance of 25. It was open during
the time of the Ptolemies.
No. 2. Tomb of Rameses IV. This
is a small but elegant tomb, 218 ft.
long, including the hypæthral passage
of 47. The colossal granite sarcophagus
remains in its original situation,
though broken at the side, and
is 11 ft. 6 in. by 7, and upwards of
9 ft. in height. The bodies found in
the recesses behind this hall seem to
favour the conjecture that they were
intended, like those before mentioned,
in Nos. 11 and 17, as receptacles for
the dead. The inscriptions prove it to
have been one of the seventeen open
in the time of the Ptolemies.
No. 14. Tomb of Ptah-se-ptah, who
seems to have reigned in right of his
wife, the queen Taosiri; as she occurs
sometimes alone, making offerings to
the gods, and sometimes in company
with her husband. This catacomb
was afterwards appropriated by king
Sethi, or Osirei II., and again by his
successor, whose name is met with
throughout on the stucco which covers
part of the former sculptures, and in
intaglio on the granite sarcophagus in
the grand hall. In the passages beyond
the staircase the subjects relate
to the liturgies of the deceased monarch,
and in the side chamber to the
1. is a bier attended by Anubis, with
the vases of the four genii beneath it.
In the first grand vaulted hall, below
the cornice which runs round the lower
part, various objects of Egyptian furniture
are represented, as metal mirrors,
boxes and chairs of very elegant shape,
vases, fans, arms, necklaces, and numerous
insignia. In the succeeding passages
the subjects resemble many of
those in the unfinished hall of No. 17.
The sculptures are in intaglio; but
whenever the name of the king appears
it is merely painted on the stucco;
and those in the second vaulted hall
are partly in intaglio and partly in outline,
but of a good style. The sarcophagus
has been broken, and the lid,
on which is the figure of the king in
relief, has the form of the royal name
or oval.
This tomb was open in the time of
the Ptolemies. Its total length is 363
ft., without the hypæthral entrance,
but it is unfinished; and behind the
first hall another large chamber with
pillars was intended to have been
added.
No. 15. Tomb of Sethi, or Osirei 11.
The figures at the entrance are in
relief, and of very good style. Beyond
this passage it is unfinished. Part of
the broken sarcophagus lies on the
other side of the hall. It bears the
name of this monarch in intaglio; and
his figure on the lid, a fine specimen
of bold relief in granite, is raised 9 in.
above the surface. This catacomb
was open at an early epoch. Its
total length is 236 ft.
No. 16. Tomb of Rameses I., the
father of Sethi I., and grandfather of
Rameses II., being the oldest tomb
hitherto discovered in this valley, and
among the number of those opened by

Belzoni. The sarcophagus within it
bears the same name.
Mention has already been made of
a ravine which branches off from the
main valley of the tombs of the Kings,
and which is commonly called the
Western Valley. In it are the tombs
of the last kings of the XVIIIth Dynasty.
Among them is the Tomb of
Amenhotep III.
It is of considerable
size, but the line of direction varies
in three different parts, the first extending
to a distance of 145 ft., the
second 119 and the third 88, being a
total of 352 ft. in length, with several
chambers. Towards the end of the
first line of direction is a well now
nearly closed, intended to prevent the
ingress of the rain-water and of the
too curious visitor; and this deviation
may perhaps indicate the vicinity of
another tomb behind it.
It is probable that there are more
tombs in this valley belonging to
kings of the XVIIIth Dynasty, the
discovery, of which would be very
interesting.
All who have the time and are not
too tired, instead of returning to the
river by the way they came, should
climb the Footpath that leads up from
the eastern valley of the Tombs of the
Kings to the top of the mountain
overlooking the plain of Thebes, and
immediately above the temple of Dayr
el-Bahrec. Not only is the View to
be obtained from the high peak, to the
right of the flat plateau on which the
path emerges, the most beautiful in
Egypt, but the map of Thebes can be
better understood from this point than
from anywhere else.

i. TOMBS OF PRIESTS AND PRIVATE
INDIVIDUALS.

It is difficult to determine what particular
portions of the vast Necropolis
of Thebes were set apart for the sepulture
of the various classes of persons,
but it may be observed that in those
places where the compact nature of
the rock was not suited for large excavations,
the tombs of the priests and
important functionaries are invariably
met with, while those of persons of inferior
rank are to be looked for, either
in the plain beneath, or in the less
solid parts of the adjacent hills.
It is equally impossible to class the
different parts of the Necropolis according
to their antiquity, as tombs of
a remote epoch are continually intermixed
with those of more recent date.
There is every reason, however, to
believe that the oldest tombs at Thebes
are to be found at
Drah Aboo'l-Negga, near Koorneh,
in the hill behind the temple. This
cemetery contains tombs of the XIth
Dynasty period. The coffins of two
kings named Entef of that dynasty
were found there, and are now at
Paris. There are also tombs of the
XVIIth, and of the beginning of the
XVIIIth Dynasty. Here was found,
by M. Mariette in 1859, the coffin of
Queen Ahhotpou — who appears to
have been the wife of Kames, probably
a prince of the XVIIth Dynasty,
and the mother of Ahmes, first king
of the XVIIIth Dynasty— with the
magnificent collection of jewellery now
in the Boolak Museum (see p. 200).
There are no tombs at Drah Aboo'l negga
worth seeing, but it is a
curiously weird place with its barren
terraced hills covered with the débris
of the excavations.
Tombs of the Assaséef.—Continuing
in a S. direction from Drah Aboo'l negga,
we reach another part of the
Necropolis, situated as it were in the
centre of the amphitheatre at the back
of which is Dayr el-Bahree. The
Tombs of the Assaséef, as they are
called, are excavated out of the hard
white limestone which forms the nucleus
of the Libyan hills; and to this
circumstance must be attributed the
dilapidated state in which they now
are, they having been destroyed and
broken up for the sake of the lime.
They are not less remarkable for their
extent than for the profusion and
detail of their ornamental sculpture.
The smallest commence with an outer
court, decorated by a peristyle of pillars

To this succeeds an arched entrance
to the tomb itself, which consists
of a long hall, supported by a
double row of four pillars, and another
of smaller dimensions beyond it, with
four pillars in the centre.
The date of the tombs in this Necropolis
is of the XIXth, XXIInd,
and XXVIth Dynasties. In visiting
them, the best plan is to trust to the
guides, who know which are worth
showing.
Tomb of Petamunoph.—This, the
largest of all the tombs, and indeed of
all the sepulchres of Thebes, far exceeding
in extent any of the tombs of
the Kings, is situated at the extreme
west of the cemetery. It is very much
infested with bats, and had better
therefore not be entered by those who
dislike them. Its outer court or area
is 103 ft. by 76, with a flight of steps
descending to its centre from the entrance,
which lies between two massive
crude-brick walls, once supporting an
arched gateway. The inner door, cut
like the rest of the tomb in the limestone
rock, leads to a second court,
53 ft. by 67, with a peristyle of pillars
on either side, behind which are two
closed corridors. That on the W. contains
a pit and one small square room,
and the opposite one has a similar
chamber, which leads to a narrow
passage, once closed in two places by
masonry, and evidently used for a
sepulchral purpose.
Continuing through the second area,
you arrive at a porch whose arched
summit, hollowed out of the rock, has
the light form of a small segment of a
circle; and from the surface of the
inner wall project the cornice and
mouldings of an elegant doorway.
This opens on the first hall, 53 ft.
by 37, once supported by a double
line of 4 pillars, dividing the nave (if
it may so be called) from the aisles,
with half pillars as usual attached to
the end walls. Another ornamented
doorway leads to the second hall, 52 ft.
square, with two pillars in each row,
disposed as in the former. Passing
through another door you arrive at a
small chamber, 21 ft. by 12, at whose
end wall is a niche, formed of a series
of jambs, receding successively to its
centre. Here terminates the first line
of direction. A square room lies on
the left (entering); and on the right
another succession of passages, or
narrow apartments, leads to two flights
of steps, immediately before which is
another door on the right. Beyond
these is another passage, and a room
containing a pit 45 ft. deep, which
opens at about one-third of its depth
on a lateral chamber.
A third line of direction, at right
angles with the former, turns to the
right, and terminates in a room, at
whose upper end is a squared pedestal.
Returning through this range of
passages, and re-ascending the two
staircases, the door above alluded to
presents itself on the left hand. You
shortly arrive at a pit (opening on
another set of rooms, beneath the level
of the upper ground-plan), and, after
passing it, a large square, surrounded
by long passages, arrests the attention
of the curious visitor. At each
angle is the figure of one of the eight
following goddesses—Neith, Sàté, Isis,
Nephthys, Nepte, Justice, Selk, and
Athor—who, standing with outspread
arms, preside over and protect the
sacred enclosure, to which they front
and are attached.
Eleven niches, in six of which
are small figures of different deities,
occur at intervals on the side walls,
and the summit is crowned by a
frieze of hieroglyphics. Three chambers
lie behind this square, and the
passage which goes round it descends
on that side, and rejoins, by an ascending
talus on the next, the level of the
front. A short distance beyond is the
end of this part of the tomb; but the
above-mentioned pit communicates
with a subterranean passage opening
on a vaulted chamber, from whose
upper extremity another pit leads,
downwards, to a second, and ultimately,
through the ceiling of the
last, upwards, to a third apartment,
coming immediately below the centre
of the square above noticed. It has
one central niche, and seven on either
side, the whole loaded with hieroglyphical
sculptures, which cover the

walls in every part of this extensive
tomb.
An idea of its length, and consequently
of the profusion of its ornamental
details, may be gathered from
a statement of the total extent of each
series of the passages, both in the
upper and under part of the excavation.
From the entrance of the outer
area to the first deviation from the
original right line, is 320 ft. The
total of the next range of passages to
the chamber of the great pit is 177 ft.
The third passage, at right angles to
this last, is 60 ft.; that passing over
the second pit is 125 ft.; and adding
to these three of the sides of the
isolated square, the total is 862 ft., independent
of the lateral chambers.
The area of the actual excavation
is 22,217 square feet, and with the
chambers of the pits, 23,809; though,
from the nature of its plan, the
ground it occupies is nearly one acre
and a quarter; an immoderate space
for the sepulchre of one individual,
even allowing that the members of
his family shared a portion of its
extent. The date of this tomb is
doubtful.
In one of the side chambers is the
royal name, which may possibly be of
king Horus of the XVIIIth Dynasty.
If so, this wealthy priest might seem
to have lived in the reign of that Pharaoh:
but the style of the sculptures
would rather confine his era to the
later period of the XXVIth Dynasty.
The wealth of private individuals
who lived under this dynasty, and immediately
before the Persian invasion,
was very great; nor can any one, on
visiting these tombs, doubt a fact corroborated
by the testimony of Herodotus
and other authors, who state
that Egypt was most flourishing about
the reign of Amasis. But though the
labour and expense incurred in finishing
them far exceed those of any other
epoch, the execution of the sculptures,
charged with ornament and fretted
with the most minute details, is far
inferior to that in vogue during the
reign of the XVIIIth Dynasty, when
freedom of drawing was united with
simplicity of effect. And the style of
the subjects in the catacombs of this
last-mentioned era excites our admiration,
no less than the skill of the
artists who designed them; while few
of those of the XXVIth Dynasty can
be regarded with a similar satisfaction,
at least by the eye of an Egyptian
antiquary. One, however, of these
tombs, bearing the name of an individual
who lived under the first Psammetichus,
deserves to be excepted, as
the subjects there represented tend to
throw considerable light on the manners
and customs, the trades and employments,
of the Egyptians; and there
are some elegant and highly-finished
sculptures in the area of a tomb immediately
behind that of Petamunoph.
Tombs of Sheykh Abd-el-Koorneh.
Continuing in a southerly direction
from the Assaséef, another burying-ground
is reached, consisting of tombs
hollowed out of the hill called Sheykh
Abd-el-Koorneh, immediately behind
the Rameseum. The principle of these
tombs is the same as those at Beni
Hassan,—a chamber hollowed out in
the rock to serve as a mortuary chapel,
and a well leading from it to the vault
in which reposed the mummied body.
From a distance the great square
doors of these tombs, extending in
symmetrical order along the side of
the hill, have all the appearance of
the batteries of a fortress.
Many of them are covered with
most interesting sculptures, to give a
detailed account of which, however,
would take up too much space here.
It will be sufficient to mention and
describe some of the more important.
Like the Tombs of the Kings, they
were numbered by Sir G. Wilkinson,
and the numbers still remain, and
are known to the guides, who will
conduct the visitor to those best worth
seeing, and in the best state of repair.
Nos. 16 and 35 are considered the
most interesting.
No. 14 is much ruined, but remarkable
as being the only one in which a
drove of pigs is introduced. (See
Wilkinson's ‘Ancient Egyptians,’ vol.
ii. p. 100, woodcut 360.) They are

followed by a man holding a knotted
whip in his hand, and would appear,
from the wild plants before them, to
be a confirmation of Herodotus's account
of their employment to tread-in
the grain after the inundation; which
singular use of an animal so little inclined
by its habits to promote agricultural
objects has been explained by
supposing they were introduced beforehand,
to clear the ground of the roots
and fibres of the weeds which the
water of the Nile had nourished on
the irrigated soil. They are here
brought, with the other animals of
the farmyard, to be registered by the
scribes; who, as usual, note down the
number of the cattle and possessions
of the deceased; and they are divided
into three distinct lines, composed of
sows with young, pigs, and boars.
The figures of the animals in this
catacomb are very characteristic.
No. 16 is a very interesting tomb, as
well in point of chronology as in the
execution of its paintings. Here the
names of four kings, from the third
Thothmes to Amenhotep III. inclusive,
satisfactorily confirm the order
of their succession as given in the
Abydus tablet and the lists of Thebes.
In the Inner Chamber, the inmate of
the tomb, a “royal scribe,” or basilico-grament,
undergoes his final judgment
previous to admission into the
presence of Osiris. Then follows a
long procession, arranged in four
lines, representing the lamentations
of the women, and the approach of
the coffin, containing the body of the
deceased, drawn on a sledge by four
oxen. In the second line men advance
with different insignia belonging to
the king Amenhotep; in the third,
with various offerings, a chariot,
chairs, and other objects; and in the
last line a priest, followed by the chief
mourners, officiates before the boats
in which are seated the basilico-grammat
and his sister. “The ruders,”
according to Herodotus, “are
passed through the keel:” or rather
attached to the top of the sternpost,
or to the taffrail, in their larger boats
of burthen, while those of smaller
size have one on either side. They
consist, like the other, of a species of
large paddle, with a rope fastened
to the upper end, by which their
sway on the centre of motion is regulated
to and fro. One square sail,
lowered at pleasure over the cabin,
with a yard at the top and bottom, is
suspended at its centre to the summit
of a short mast, which stands in the
middle, and is braced by stays
fastened to the fore and after part of
the boat.
On the opposite wall is a fowling
and fishing scene; and the dried fish
suspended in the boat remind us of
the observations of Herodotus and
Diodorus, who mention them as constituting
a very considerable article of
food among this people; for, with the
exception of the priesthood, they were
at all times permitted to eat those
which were not comprised among the
sacred animals of the country. Here
is also the performance of the liturgies
to the mummies of the deceased.
Nor do the paintings of the Outer
Chamber
less merit our attention.
Among the most interesting is a party
entertained at the house of the royal
scribe, who, seated with his mother,
caresses on his knee the youthful
daughter of his sovereign, to whom
he had probably been tutor. Women
dance to the sound of the Egyptian
guitar in their presence, or place before
them vases of flowers and precious
ointment; and the guests, seated
on handsome chairs, are attended by
servants, who offer them wine in
“golden goblets,” each having previously
been welcomed by the usual
ceremony of having his head anointed
with sweet-scented ointment. This
was a common custom; and in another
of these tombs a servant is represented
bringing the ointment in a vase, and
putting it on the heads of the guests,
as well as of the master and mistress
of the house. A lotus-flower
was also presented to them on their
arrival.
In the lower part of the picture, a
minstrel, seated cross-legged according
to the custom of the East, plays on
a harp of seven strings, accompanied

by a guitar, and the chorus of a vocal
performer, the words of whose song
appear to be contained in eight lines
of hieroglyphics, which relate to
Amen, and to the person of the tomb,
beginning, “Incense, drink-offering,
and sacrifices of oxen,” and concluding
with an address to the royal
scribe. Beyond these an ox is
slaughtered, and two men, having cut
off the head, remove the skin from the
legs and body. Servants carry away
the joints as they are separated, the
head and fore-leg with the shoulder
being the first, the other legs and the
parts of the body following in proper
succession. A mendicant receives a
head from the charity of one of the
servants, who also offers him a bottle
of water. This gift of the head shows
how great a mistake Herodotus has
made on the subject, when he says,
“no Egyptian will taste the head of
any species of animal.” There were
no Greeks in Egypt at the time this
was painted; and the colour of the
man (for the Egyptians were careful
in distinguishing that of foreigners)
is the same as usually given to the
inhabitants of the valley of the Nile.
Indeed the head is always met with,
even in an Egyptian kitchen. On the
opposite wall are some buffoons who
dance to the sound of a drum, and
other subjects.
In No. 17 is a very rich assortment of
vases, necklaces, and other ornamental
objects, on the innermost corner to
the rt. (entering); and some scribes
on the opposite wall take account
of the cattle and possessions of the
deceased. A forced passage leads to
the adjoining tomb, where, at one end
of the front chamber, are several interesting
subjects, as chariot-makers,
sculptors, cabinet-makers, and various
trades; and at the other, two pyramidal
towers, with the tapering staffs
to which streamers were usually attached,
and with two sitting statues
in front. On the opposite side a guest
arrives in his chariot at the house of
his friend, attended by six running-footmen,
who carry his sandals, tablet,
and stool. “He is very late,” and
those who have already come to the
entertainment are seated in the room,
listening to a band of music, composed
of the harp, guitar, double-pipe,
lyre, and tambourine, accompanied by
female choristers.
Behind the Christian ruins, close
to No. 23, are the remains of a
curious Greek inscription, being the
copy of a letter from the celebrated
Athanasius, Archbishop of Alexandria,
to the orthodox” monks at
Thebes.
No. 31 presents some curious subjects,
among which are offerings of
gold rings, eggs, apes, leopards, ivory,
ebony, skins, and a camelopard, with
several other interesting frescoes, unfortunately
much destroyed. Over
the eggs is the word soouhi, in the
hieroglyphics, signifying “eggs.” The
names of the Pharaohs here are
Thothmes I. and III. In the inner
room is a chase, and the chariot of
the chasseur, partially preserved.
In No. 33 the chief object worthy
of notice is the figure of a queen,
wife of Thothmes III. and mother of
Amenhotep II., holding her young
son in her lap, who tramples beneath
his feet nine captives of nations he
afterwards subdued. Before the canopy
under which they are seated, are
a fan-bearer, some female attendants,
and a minstrel who recites to the
sound of a guitar the praises of the
young king. On the corresponding
wall is a collection of furniture and
ornamental objects, with the figures
of Amenhotep II., his mother, and
Thothmes I. On the opposite wall
an offering of ducks and other subjects
are deserving of notice.
No. 34 has the name of the same
Amenhotep and of Thothmes I., his
immediate predecessor. It contains a
curious design of a garden and vineyard,
with other subjects.
The next tomb to this, on the south,
though much ruined, offers some excellent

drawing, particularly in some
dancing figures to the left (entering),
whose graceful attitudes remind us
rather of the Greek than the Egyptian
school; and indeed, were we not
assured by the name of Amenhotep II.
of the remote period at which they
were executed, we might suppose
them the production of a Greek
pencil. (See Wilkinson's ‘Ancient
Egyptians,’ vol. i. p. 501, woodcut
261.) On the right-hand wall are
some very elegant vases, of what has
been called the Greek style, but common
in the oldest tombs in Thebes.
They are ornamented as usual with
arabesques and other devices. Indeed
all these forms of vases, the so-called
Tuscan border, and many of the
painted ornaments which exist on
Greek remains, are found on Egyptian
monuments of the earliest epoch,
long before the exodus of the Israelites;
plainly removing all doubts as
to their original invention. Above
these are curriers, chariot-makers, and
other artisans. Others are employed
in weighing gold and silver rings, the
property of the deceased.
The Egyptian weights were an entire
calf, the head of an ox (the half
weight), and small oval balls (the
quarter weights); and they had a very
ingenious mode of preventing the scale
from sinking, when the object they
weighed was taken out, by means of a
ring upon the beam.
The semicircular knife used for
cutting leather is precisely similar to
that employed in Europe at the present
day for the same purpose, of
which there are several instances in
other parts of Thebes; and another
point is here satisfactorily established,
that the Egyptian chariots were of
wood, and not of bronze, as some have
imagined.
The person of this catacomb was a
high-priest, but his name is erased.
No.35the tomb of Rekhmara—is
by far the most curious
of all the
private tombs in Thebes, since it
throws more light on the manners
and customs of the Egyptians than
any hitherto discovered.
In the Outer Chamber on the left
hand
(entering) is a grand procession
of Ethiopian and Asiatic chiefs, bearing
a tribute to the Egyptian monarch,
Thothmes III. (See Wilkinson's
‘Ancient Egyptians,' vol. i. pl. ii.)
They are arranged in five lines. The
first or uppermost consists of blacks,
and others of a red colour from the
country of Pount, who bring ivory,
apes, leopards' skins, and dried fruits.
Their dress is short, similar to that of
some of the Asiatic tribes, who are
represented at Medeenet Háboo.
In the second line are a people
of a light red hue, with long black
hair descending in ringlets over their
shoulders, but without beards: their
dress also consists of a short apron
thrown round the lower part of the
body, meeting and folding over in
front, and they wear sandals richly
worked. Their presents are vases of
elegant form, ornamented with flowers,
necklaces, and other costly gifts,
which, according to the hieroglyphics,
they bring as “chosen (offerings) of
the chief of the Gentiles of Kufá.”
In the third line are Ethiopians,
who are styled “Gentiles of the
South,” The leaders are dressed in
the Egyptian costume, the others have
a girdle of skin, with the hair, as usual,
outwards. They bring gold rings, and
bags of precious stones (?) or rather
gold-dust, hides, apes, leopards, ebony,
ivory, ostrich eggs and plumes, a
camelopard, hounds with handsome
collars, and a drove of long-horned
oxen.
The fourth line is composed of men
of a northern nation, clad in long
white garments, with a blue border
tied at the neck, and ornamented with
a cross or other devices. On their head
is either a close cap, or their natural
hair, short, and of a red colour, and
they have a small beard. Some
bring long gloves, which, with their
close sleeves, indicate as well as
their white colour, that they are the
inhabitants of a cold climate. Among
other offerings are vases, similar to
those of the Kufa, a chariot and horses,
a bear, elephant, and ivory. Their
name is Rotennoo, which reminds us

of the Ratheni of Arabia Petræa;
but the style of their dress and the
nature of their offerings require them
to have come from a richer and more
civilised country, probably much farther
to the north. Xenophon mentions
gloves in Persia.
In the fifth line Egyptians lead the
van, and are followed by women of
Ethiopia (Cush), “the Gentiles of
the South,” carrying their children in
a pannier suspended from their head.
Behind these are the wives of the
Rotennoo, who are dressed in long
robes, divided into three sets of ample
flounces.
The offerings being placed in the
presence of the monarch, who is seated
on his throne at the upper part of the
picture, an inventory is taken of them
by the Egyptian scribes. Those opposite
the upper line consist of baskets
of dried fruits, gold rings, and two
obelisks.
On the second line are ingots and
rings of silver, gold and silver vases of
very elegant form, and several heads
of animals of the same metals.
On the third are ostrich eggs and
feathers, ebony, precious stones and
rings of gold, an ape, several silver
cups, ivory, leopard-skins, ingots and
rings of gold, sealed bags of precious
stones or gold-dust, and other objects;
and on the fourth line are gold and
silver rings, vases of the same metal
and of porcelain, with rare woods and
various other rich presents.
The Inner Chamber contains subjects
of the most interesting and
diversified kind. Among them, on
the left wall (entering), are cabinetmakers,
carpenters, rope-makers, and
sculptors, some of whom are engaged
in levelling and squaring a stone, and
others in finishing a sphinx, with two
colossal statues of the king. The
whole process of Brick-making is also
introduced. Their bricks were made
with a simple mould; the stamp (for
they bore the name of a king, or of
some high-priest) was not on the
pallet, but was apparently impressed
on the upper surface previous to their
drying. The makers are not, however,
Jews, as some have supposed; but of
the countries mentioned in the sculptures.
It is sufficiently interesting
to find a subject illustrating so completely
the description of the Jews
and their taskmasters given in the
Bible, without striving to give it an
importance to which it has no claim.
(See Wilkinson's ‘Ancient Egyptians,'
vol. i. p. 344, woodcut 112.)
Others are employed in heating a
liquid over a charcoal fire, to which
are applied, on either side, a pair of
bellows. These are worked by the
feet, the operator standing and pressing
them alternately, while he pulls
up each exhausted skin by a string
he holds in his hand. In one instance
the man has left the bellows,
but they are raised, as if full of air,
which would imply a knowledge of
the valve. Another singular fact is
learnt from these paintings—their
acquaintance with the use of glue—
which is heated on the fire, and
spread with a thick brush on a level
piece of board. One of the workmen
then applies two pieces of different-coloured
wood to each other, and
this circumstance seems to decide
that glue is here intended to be represented
rather than a varnish or colour
of any kind.
On the right wall (entering) the
attitude of a maid-servant pouring out
some wine to a lady, one of the guests,
and returning an empty cup to a black
slave who stands behind her, is admirably
portrayed; nor does it offer
the stiff position of an Egyptian figure.
And the manner in which the slave
is drawn, holding a plate with her
arm and hand reversed, is very characteristic
of a custom peculiar to the
blacks. The guests are entertained
by music, and the women here sit
apart from the men.
Among other subjects on this wall
worthy of notice may be mentioned a
garden where the personage of the
tomb is introduced in his boat, towed
by his servants on a lake surrounded
by Theban palms and date-trees.
Numerous liturgies (or parentalia) are
performed to the mummy of the deceased.
At the upper end of the tomb a

list of offerings are registered, with
their names and number, in separate
columns.
The form of this inner chamber is
singular, the roof ascending at a considerable
angle towards the end wall;
from below which the spectator, in
looking toward the door, may observe
a striking effect of false perspective.
In the upper part is a niche, or recess,
at a considerable height above the
pavement.
In the Tomb of Neferhotep, a royal
scribe, immediately below the isolated
hill to the west of the entrance of
the Assaséef, are some very curious
sculptures.
In the Outer Chamber is
the most complete procession of boats
of any met with in the catacombs
of Thebes. Two of them contain the
female relatives of the deceased, his
sister being chief mourner. One has
on board the mummy, deposited in a
shrine, to which a priest offers incense;
in the other several women
seated, or standing on the roof of the
cabin, beat their heads in token of
grief. In a third boat are the men,
who make a similar lamentation, with
two of the aged matrons of the family;
and three others contain the flowers
and offerings furnished by the priests
for the occasion, several of whom
are also in attendance. (See Wilkinson's
‘Ancient Egyptians,' vol. iii.
pl. lxvi.)
The Egyptians could not even here
resist their turn for caricature. A
small boat, owing to the retrograde
movement of a larger one that had
grounded and was pushed off the
bank, is struck by the rudder, and a
large table, loaded with cakes and
various things, is overturned on the
boatmen as they row.
The procession arrives at the opposite
bank, and follows the officiating
priest along the sandy plain. The
“sister” of the deceased, embracing
the mummy, addresses her lost relative:
flowers, cakes, incense, and various
offerings are presented before the
tomb; the ululation of the men and
women continues without; and several
females, carrying their children in
shawls suspended from their shoulder,
join in the lamentation.
On the corresponding wall, men and
women, with the body exposed above
the waist, throw dust on their heads,
or cover their faces with mud,—a custom
recorded by Herodotus and Diodous,
and still retained in the
funeral ceremonies of the Egyptian
peasants to the present day. The
former states that “the females of
the family cover their heads and faces
with mud, and wander through the
city beating themselves, wearing a
girdle, and having their bosoms bare,
accompanied by all their intimate
friends; the men also make similar
lamentations in a separate company.”
Besides other interesting groups on
this wall are the figures of the mother,
wife, and daughter of the deceased,
following a funeral sledge drawn by
oxen, where the character of the three
ages is admirably portrayed.
In the Inner Chamber are an Egyptian
house and garden, the cattle, and
a variety of other subjects, among
which may be traced the occupations
of the weaver, and of the gardener
drawing water with the pole and
bucket, the shadoof of the present
day.
Statues in high relief are seated at
the upper end of this part of the tomb,
and on the square pillars in its centre
are the names of Amenhotep I. and
queen Ames-nofri-are.
Tombs of Koornet Murraee.—S.W. or
the cemetery just described, after passing
the temple of Dayr el-Medeeneh,
are some more tombs, similar in their
character to those on the hill of Sheykh
Abd el-Koorneh, and known by the
name above. Among them are one or
two interesting ones, especially the
Tomb of Hooï, a great functionary of
the XVIIIth Dynasty. It is covered
with paintings, which, unfortunately,
as in the case of so many of the
tombs, are fast disappearing. In
one of the pictures the king is represented
on his throne, within a
richly-ornamented canopy, attended
by a fan-bearer, who also holds his
sceptre. A procession advances in

four lines into his presence. The
lower division consists of Egyptians
of the sacerdotal and military classes,
some ladies of consequence, and
young people bringing bouquets and
boughs of trees. They have just
entered the gates of the royal court,
and are preceded by a scribe, and
others of the priestly order, who do
obeisance before the deputy of his
majesty, as he stands to receive them.
This officer appears to have been the
person of the tomb, and it is remarkable
that he is styled “Royal Son,”
and “Prince of Cush,” or Ethiopia.
In the second line black “chiefs of
Cush” bring presents of gold rings,
copper, skins, fans, or umbrellas of
feather-work, and an ox, bearing on
its horns an artificial garden and la
lake of fish. Having placed their
offerings they prostrate themselves
before the Egyptian monarch. A
continuation of these presents follows
in the third line, where, besides rings
of gold, and bags of precious stones
or gold-dust, are the camelopard, panthers'
skins, and long-horned cattle,
whose heads and horns are strangely
ornamented with the heads and hands
of negroes.
In the upper line, the queen of the
same people arrives in a chariot drawn
by oxen, and overshadowed by an
umbrella, accompanied by her attendants,
some of whom bear presents of
gold. (See Wilkinson's ‘Ancient
Egyptians,’ vol. i, p. 235.) She alights
preceded and followed by the principal
persons of her suite, and advances
to the presence of the king.
This may refer to a marriage that
was contracted between the Egyptian
monarch and a princess of Ethiopia,
or merely to the annual tribute
paid by that people. Among the different
presents are a chariot, shields
covered with bulls' hides bound with
metal borders and studded with pins,
chairs, couches, headstools, and other
objects. The dresses of the negroes
differ in the upper line from those
below, the latter having partly the
costume of the Egyptians, with the
plaited hair of their national headdress
but those who follow the car of
the princess are clad in skins, whose
projecting tail, while it heightens the
caricature the artist doubtless intended
to indulge in, proves them to be persons
of an inferior station, who were
probably brought as slaves to the
Egyptian monarch. Behind these
are women of the same nation, bearing
their children in a kind of basket
suspended to their back. Many other
interesting subjects cover the walls of
this tomb, which throw much light on
the customs of the Egyptians.
In another catacomb, unfortunately
much ruined, is a spirited chase, in
which various animals of the desert
are admirably designed. The fox,
hare, gazelle, ibex, eriel (Antelope
oryx), ostrich, and wild ox fly before
the hounds; and the porcupine and
hyæna retire to the higher part of the
mountains. The female hyéna alone
remains, and rises to defend her
young; but most of the dogs are represented
in pursuit of the gazelles,
or in the act of seizing those they
have overtaken in the plain. (See
Wilkinson's ‘Ancient Egyptians,' vol.
ii. p. 92.) The chasseur follows, and
discharges his arrows among them
as they fly. These arrows were very
light, being made of reed, feathered,
and tipped with stone. They have
been found in the tombs, together
with those having metal points; both
being used, as the sculptures show,
at the same periods; the latter for
war, the former for the chase.
In observing the accuracy with
which the general forms and characters
of their animals are drawn, one
cannot but feel surprised that the
Egyptians should have had so imperfect
a knowledge of the art of representing
the trees and flowers of their
country, which, with the exception of
the lotus, palm, and dôm, can scarcely
ever be identified; unless the fruit,
as in the pomegranate and sycamore,
is present to assist us.
At the entrance of a valley to the
S.W. of Koornet Murrace are several
Tombs of the early date of Amenhotep
I., which claim the attention of the
chronologist, rather than the admiration

of the traveller who seeks elegant
designs or interesting sculptures; and
a series of pits and crude-brick chambers
occupy the space between these
and the brick enclosure of a Ptolemaïc
temple to the E. Among the most
remarkable of these tombs is one containing
the members of Amenhotep's
family, and some of his predecessors;
and another, whose crude-brick roof
and niche, bearing the name of the
same Pharaoh, proves the existence of
the arch at that period; a crude-brick
pyramid
of an early epoch; and a
tomb, under the western rock, which
offers to the curiosity of chronologists
the names of three successive kings,
and their predecessor Amenhotep I.,
seated with a black queen. Other
vaulted tombs have been found of kings
of the XVIIIth and XIXth Dynasties.
The deity who presided over this
valley, and the mountain behind it,
was Athor, “the guardian of the west;”
and many of the tombs have a statue
of the cow, which was sacred to her,
whose head and breast project in high
relief from their innermost wall.

k. TOMBS OF THE QUEENS.

About 1/2 hour's walk from Koornet
Murraee to the W. and about 1/4 mile to
the N.W. of Medeenet Háboo is the
Valley of the Queens' Tombs. But they
have few attractions for those who are
not interested in hieroglyphics; and
who will be probably satisfied with the
tombs of the kings, of Abd-el-Koorneh,
and of the Assuséef. Among the
most distinguished names in the sepulchres
of the queens are those of
Amenmeit, or Amen-tmei, the daughter
of Amenhotep I.; of Taia, wife of
the third Amenhotep; of the favourite
daughter of Rameses II.; and of the
consort of Rameses V. In another
appears the name of the third Rameses,
but that of his queen is not
met with either on its walls or on its
broken sarcophagus. All these tombs
have suffered from the effects of fire;
and little can be satisfactorily traced
of their sculptures, except in that of
Queen Taia.
It is not improbable, from the hieroglyphics
on the jamb of the inner door
of this tomb, that these are the burying-places
of the Pallacides, or Pellices
Jovis, mentioned by Strabo and Diodorus;
and the distance of 10 stadia
from these “first” or westernmost
tombs to the sepulchre of Osymandyas
agrees with that from the supposed
Memnonium to this valley.
The mummies of their original possessors
must have suffered in the
general conflagration which reduced
to ashes the contents of most of the
tombs in this and the adjacent valley
of Dayr el-Medeeneh; and the bodies
of inferior persons and of Greeks, less
carefully embalmed, have occupied at
a subsequent period the vacant burial-places
of their royal predecessors.
About 1/4 hour's walk farther to the
S.W. is the Gabbánet el-Keróod, or
Apes' Burial-ground,” so called from
the ape-mummies found in the ravines
of the torrents in its vicinity.
Among other unusual figures carefully
interred here are small idols in
form of human mummies, with the
emblem of the god of generation.
Their total length does not exceed
2 ft., and an exterior coat of coarse
composition which forms the body,
surmounted by a human head with
the bonnet, “of the upper country”
made of wax, conceals their singular
but simple contents of barley.

I. LUXOR.

Luxor , El Uksor, or Aboo'l Haggag,
which occupies part of the site of
ancient Diospolis, still holds the rank
of a market-town. Its name, Luxor,
or El Kosóor, signifies “the Palaces,”
from the temple there erected by
Amenhotep III. and Rameses II.
Temple of Luxor.—The original
sanctuary and the adjoining chambers,
with the addition of the large colonnade
and the pylon before it, were
built by Amenhotep III. Rameses II.
afterwards added the great court, the
pyramidal towers, and the obelisks
and statues. The whole plan of the
Temple is very irregular, from its
having been built on the bank of the


THEBES AND LUXOR DIOSPOLIS, CITY OF AMMON.


river, and following the direction of
the quay. The excavations made by
M. Maspero have exposed the Temple
to view: it had previously been so
covered up with rubbish and modern
buildings that it was difficult to trace
the plan. It would appear that when
first constructed, it was not separated
from the Nile as it is at present, but
rose direct from the water's edge.
It is to be hoped that the excavations
will be continued notwithstanding
M. Maspero's departure from
Egypt.
The parts built by Rameses II.,
though last in the order of antiquity,
necessarily form the present
commencement of the temple, which,
like many others belonging to different
epochs, is not two separate edifices,
but one and the same building. A
dromos, connecting it with Karnak,
extended in front of the two beautiful
Obelisks of red granite (only one of
which now remains in situ, the other
being in the Place de la Concorde at
Paris), whose four sides are covered
with a profusion of hieroglyphics, no
less admirable for the style of their execution
than for the depth to which
they are cut, which in many instances
exceeds 2 inches. It is to be regretted
that the companion obelisk has been
removed, especially now that the excavation
of the temple is being carried
out. The remaining obelisk is 84
feet in height, but of this a considerable
part is hidden in the rubbish.
The obelisk in Paris is 77 feet
in height.
Behind the remaining obelisk are
two sitting Statues of Rameses II., one
on either side of the pylon or gateway;
but, like the former, they are much
buried in the earth and sand accumulated
around them. Near the N.W.
extremity of the Propyla another
similar colossus rears its head amidst
the houses of the village, which also
conceal a great portion of the interesting
battle-scenes on the front of the
towers. Many of these are very
spirited; and on the western tower is
the camp, surrounded by a wall, represented
by Egyptian shields, with a
guard posted at the gate. Within are
chariots, horses, and the spoil taken
from the enemy, as well as the holy
place that held the Egyptian ark in a
tent; instances of which are found on
other monuments, as at Aboo Simbel.
There is also the king's chariot, shaded
by a large umbrella or parasol.
At the doorway itself is the name
of Sabaco, and on the abacus of the
columns beyond, that of Ptolemy
Philopator, both added at a later
epoch.
The Hall within, whose dimensions
are about 190 ft. by 170, is surrounded
by a peristyle, consisting of two rows
of columns, partially concealed by
hovels, and the mosque of the village
The line of direction no longer continues
the same behind this court, the
Ramesean front having been turned to
the eastward; which was done in order
to facilitate its connection with the
great temple of Karnak, as well as to
avoid the vicinity of the river.
Passing through the pylon of
Amenhotep, you arrive at the great
Colonnade, where the names of this
Pharaoh and of Amen-Toonkh are
sculptured. The latter, however, has
been effaced, as is generally the case
wherever it is met with, and those of
Horus and of Sethi are introduced in
its stead. The length of the colonnade
to the next court is about
170 ft.
To this succeeds an area of 155 ft.
by 167, surrounded by a peristyle or
12 columns in length and the same
in breadth, terminating in a covered
portico of 32 columns, 57 ft. by
111.
Behind this is a space occupying
the whole breadth of the building,
divided into chambers of different
dimensions, the centre one leading to
a hall supported by four columns,
immediately before the entrance to
the isolated sanctuary.
On the E. of the hall is a chamber
containing some curious sculpture, representing
the accouchement of Queen
Maut-m-shoi, the mother of Amenhotep.
Two children nursed by the
deity of the Nile are presented to
Amen, the presiding divinity of
Thebes; and several other subjects

relate to the singular triad worshipped
in this temple.
The original Sanctuary was perhaps
destroyed by the Persians; but
the present one was rebuilt by Alexander
(the son of Alexander, Ptolemy
being governor of Egypt), and bears
his name in the following dedicatory
formula: “This work (?) made he,
the king of men, lord of the regions,
Alexander, for his father Amen-ra, president
of Tápé (Thebes); he erected
to him the sanctuary, a grand mansion,
with repairs of sandstone, hewn, good,
and hard stone, in lieu of? (that made
by?) his majesty, the king of men,
Amenhotep.”
Behind the sanctuary are two other
sets of apartments, the larger ones
supported by columns and ornamented
with rich sculpture, much of which
appears to have been gilded.
Between this part and the great
columnar hall is one of the old chambers,
measuring 34 ft. 6 by 57 ft. 1,
with a semicircular niche. The walls
are covered with Frescoes of late
Roman time; and it was evidently a
court of law with the usual tribunal,
in which are painted three figures
larger than life wearing the toga and
sandals. The centre one holds a staff
or sceptre (scipio) in the right hand
and a globe in the left; and near him
was some object now defaced. The
other two figures have each a scroll
in one hand. On the walls to the
right and left are the traces of figures,
which are interesting from their costume;
and on the side-wall to the E.
are several soldiers with their horses,
drawn with great spirit. The colours
are much damaged by exposure, and
the frescoes can hardly be distinguished.
They probably date after
the age of Constantine. The costumes
are remarkable; and some of the men
wear embroidered upper garments,
tight hose, and laced boots, or shoes
tied over the instep. The false wainscot,
or dado, below, is richly coloured
in imitation of porphyry and other
stones incrusted in patterns, and is
better preserved than the frescoes of
the upper part, where the old gods of
Egypt in bas-relief have outlived the
paintings that once concealed them.
There appear to be traces of a small
cross painted at one side of the tribune,
and the figures have a nimbus round
their heads, but without any of the
character of Christian saints. Nor
was the nimbus confined to saints by
the early Christians.
Behind the temple is a stone Quay,
apparently of the late era of the
Ptolemies or Cæsars, since blocks
bearing the sculpture of the former
have been used in its construction.
Opposite the corner of the temple it
takes a more easterly direction, and
points out the original course of the
river, which continued across the plain
now lying between it and the ruins of
Karnak, and which may be traced by
the descent of the surface of that
ground it gradually deserted. The
southern extremity of the quay is of
brick (probably a Roman addition),
and indicates in like manner the
former direction of the stream. When
the temple was first built, the river
seems to have flowed close under its
walls.

m. KARNAK.

The road to Karnak lies through
fields of poa or halfa—grass, indicating
the site of ancient ruins. On a hillock
to the right, just outside the town, is
the Coptic cemetery, in which are some
English graves. Farther on to the
right is a mound, with the tomb of a
sheykh called Aboo Jood; a little
beyond which, to the S., are remains
of columns and an old wall. Here
and there, on approaching the temple,
the direction of the
Avenue of Sphinxes can be traced in
the bed of a small canal or watercourse,
which the Nile, during the
inundation, appropriates to its rising
stream. This avenue was about a
mile in length and bordered the whole
way with sphinxes, some of which
still exist. They have the head of a
woman on a lion's body, and between
their fore-feet is a statue of Amenhotep
III., who no doubt made this road at
the same time that he built the principal

part of the Temple of Luxor.
Beyond the village of Kafr, the
avenue turns slightly to the left, and
from this point is bordered with
sphinxes with rams' heads and called
the Avenue of Criosphinxes. At the
end of this avenue is the majestic
Pylon of Ptolemy Euergetes, who is
represented upon it as, in company
with Queen Berenice, making an
offering to their predecessors and
parents, Philadelphus and Arsinoë.
In one of the compartments, within
the doorway, the king is represented
in a Greek costume; instances of
which are rare, even on Ptolemaïc
monuments. From this pylon another
avenue of sphinxes leads to the Temple
of Rameses III.
, founded by that king,
and continued by some of his successors,
the hall of 8 columns having
been built by Rameses XIII. The
temple is dedicated to Khons, one of
the great Theban triad. To the left
or W. of this temple is the small
Temple of Euergetes II., a little chapel
dedicated by that king to Athor.
The Great Temple.—We next reach
the Great Temple of which the principal
entrance is about five minutes to
the N. of the Temple of Rameses III.
This entrance lies on the N.W. side,
facing the river, and about 1/2 a mile
distant from it.
Plan of the Temple.—From a raised
platform commences an avenue of
Criosphinxes, in some of which has
been found the name of Rameses II.,
about 200 ft. in length, leading to the
First Propylon (A), before which
stood two granite statues now mutilated
and buried in the soil. One of
the propylon towers retains a great
part of its original height, but has
lost its summit and cornice. In the
upper part their solid walls have
been perforated through their whole
breadth, for the purpose of fastening
the timbers that secured the flagstaffs
usually placed in front of these propyla;
but no sculptures have ever
been added to either face, nor was the
surface yet levelled to receive them.
The total breadth of this enormous
propylon is about 370 feet, and its
depth 50 feet; the height of the
standing tower is 140 feet. A narrow
staircase leads up to the top, whence
is obtained an excellent bird's-eye
view of the ruins.
Passing through the gateway of
this propylon, you arrive at a large
open area, the First Court (B), 275 ft.
by 329, with a covered corridor on
either side, and a double line of
columns down the centre, of which
only one remains standing. The corridors
are 50 feet high: that on the N.
presents an even front of 18 columns,
that on the S. is broken by a small
Temple of Rameses III. (L), the entrance
to which abuts on the great
area. This court was added by
Shishak of the XXIInd Dynasty. M.
Maspero considers that he intended to
roof over the columns but never completed
the work.
Between it and the second pylon in
the S.E. angle of the court is a space,
which has been called the Hall of the
Bubastites
, from the sculptures on the
walls containing the names of the
kings of that dynasty. In the N.W.
corner of this court are the remains
of a small Temple of Sethi II. (M). A
flight of seven steps, on either side of
which was a granite statue of Rameses
II., only one of which now remains,
much mutilated, led up to the
entrance, through the Second Propylon
(c), of
The Great Hall (D), the largest and
most magnificent of the old Egyptian
monuments. The lintel stones of its
doorway were 40 ft. 10 in. in length.
It measures 170 ft. by 329, and is
supported by a central avenue of 12
massive columns, 62 ft. high (without
the plinth and abacus) and 11 ft. 6 in.
diameter; besides 122 of smaller or
(rather) less gigantic dimensions, 42 ft.
5 in. in height, and 28 ft. in circumference,
distributed in nine lines
of seven each wanting four: 134 columns
in all. Originally the hall was
roofed over, and the light only penetrated
into it through the sort of
clerestory, remains of which may still
be seen on the S. side. The oldest
king's name found in this hall is that

Plan of Great Temple of Karnak.
A. First Propylon.
B. Open Area, with corridors, and a single column erect.
C. Second Propylon.
D. Great Hall.
E. Third Propylon.
F. Fourth Propylon.
G. Hall with Osiride figures.
H. Granite Sanctuary and adjoining chambers.
I. Open Court.
K. Columnar Edifice of Thothmes III.
L. Temple of Rameses III.
M. Temple of Sethi II.
a. Sculptures of Sethi I.
b. Sculptures of Shishak.
c. Sculptures of Rameses II.
d. Small Obelisks.
e. Large Obelisks.
f. Pillars of Osirtasen I.
g. Hall of Ancestors.

of Sethi I., and he is generally credited
with its construction, but there is some
reason for supposing that it was
projected by Rameses I. Attached
to the doorway are two large towers,
closing the inner extremity of the
hall.
At the E. end of the Great Hall is
a Third Propylon (E), much ruined,
which served as the entrance to the
temple up to the reign of Rameses I.
Through it we pass into a narrow uncovered
court, extending along the
whole width of the building in which
stood Two Obelisks of red granite (d)
about 75 ft. in height. One is thrown
down and broken, the other still stands.
They bear on one side the name of
Thothmes I. of the XVIIIth Dynasty,
and added at either side of the original
inscription, another by Rameses
II. of the XIXth, showing a difference
of age of the sculptures of 250
years.
To this court succeeds a Fourth
Propylon
(F) of smaller size, passing
through the vestibule of which—about
40 ft. long—we reach the Hall of
Osiride Figures
(G), surrounded by a
peristyle of the pillars so called. In
it are Two Obelisks of red granite (e)
like the others, but of larger dimensions,
the one now standing being
97 ft. 6 in. high. This is the second
tallest obelisk in the world, being
only surpassed in height by that of
St. John Lateran at Rome. The
latter obelisk was erected by Thothmes
III. at Heliopolis. It is 105 ft.
7 in. high. This part of the building
bears the name of Thothmes I.; the
obelisk, that of his daughter Hashepsu.
From a part of the inscription
on one of these obelisks we learn
that only seven months were employed
in its erection, including the time
spent in transporting it from the
quarries of Assooán. From this hall
we pass through the portal of a small
dilapidated pylon into a small area,
at either end of which a door led into
two chambers each with two rows of
columns, and communicating with the
passages. A very small pylon, on the
W. face of which are some of the
celebrated Geographical Lists, containing
the names of 1200 towns, of
which 628 remain, leads into a small
vestibule in front of the granite gateway
of the towers which form the
façcade of the court before the
Sanctuary (H). This is of red
granite, divided into two apartments,
and surrounded by numerous chambers
of small dimensions, varying from
29 ft. by 16, to 16 ft. by 8. The
actual sanctuary itself is one mass
of ruins, but some of the chambers
are still standing, and are covered
with sculptures of the XVIIIth Dynasty.
The date of the sanctuary
itself is much earlier, though the
blocks now in situ bear the name of
Philip Aridæus, who restored it; for
in the large Open Court (I) immediately
behind are some polygonal
columns (f), with the cartouche of
Osirtasen I., of the XIIth Dynasty,
in the midst of fallen architraves of
the same era; showing that the original
construction of the sanctuary
dates from that era. Further on in
this open space are two pedestals of
red granite. They may have supported
obelisks; but they are not
square, like the basements of those
monuments, and rather resemble, for
this reason, the pedestals of statues.
Their substructions are of limestone.
At the end of this open court is
the Columnar Edifice of Thothmes III.
(K). Its exterior wall is entirely destroyed
except on the N. side. Parallel
to the four outer walls is a row of
square pillars, going all round, within
the edifice, 32 in number: and in the
centre are 20 columns, disposed in
two lines, parallel to the back and
front row of pillars. But the position
of the latter does not accord with
the columns of the centre; and an
unusual caprice has changed the established
order of the architectural
details, the capitals and cornices being
reversed, without adding to the beauty
or increasing the strength of the
building. The latter, however, had
the effect of admitting more light to
the interior. Observe on some of the
columns traces of the walls of a Christian
church, built here after the abolition

of idolatry. Several columns
still bear pictures of saints, among
which a figure resembling the conventional
representations of St. Peter
may be made out. Adjoining the
S.W. angle of its front is a small
room, commonly called the Hall of
Ancestors
(g), from its having contained
on its walls a bas-relief representing
King Thothmes III.
making offerings to 56 of his predecessors.
This valuable monument is
now at Paris. A series of small halls
and rooms occupy the extremity of
the temple.
In the southern side adytum are
the vestiges of a colossal hawk, seated
on a raised pedestal; the sculptures
within and without containing the
name of Alexander, by whose order it
was repaired and sculptured.
The total dimensions of this part of
the temple, behind the inner propylon
of the grand hall, are 600 ft., by about
half that in breadth, making the total
length, from the front propylon to
the extremity of the wall of circuit,
inclusive, 1180 ft. And from this it
will appear that Diodorus is fully
justified in the following statement:
that “the circuit of the most ancient
of the four temples at Thebes measured
13 stadia,” or about 1 1/2 mile
English. The thickness of the walls,
“of 25 feet,” owing to the great variety
in their dimensions, is too vague to
be noticed; but the height he gives
to the building of 45 cubits (67 ft.),
is far too little for the grand hall,
which, from the pavement to the
summit of the roof inclusive, is not
less than 80 ft.
Comparative antiquity of the buildings
of the Great Temple.
—No part,
probably, remains of the earliest foundation
of the temple; but the name
of Osirtasen I. suffices to support its
claim to great antiquity; and if no
monument remains at Thebes of the
earliest dynasties, this may be explained
by the fact of its not having
been founded when the kings of the
Pyramid period ruled at Memphis.
The original sanctuary, which was
probably of sandstone, doubtless existed
in the reign of that monarch,
and stood on the site of the present
one, an opinion confirmed by our
finding the oldest remains in that
direction, as well as by the proportions
of the courts and propyla, whose
dimensions were necessarily made to
accord with those of the previous parts,
to which they were united. All is
here on a limited scale, and the polygonal
columns of Osirtasen evince the
chaste style of architecture in vogue
at that early era. It was added to
by Amenemhat II. and III., but
remained little changed until the
XVIIIth Dynasty.
Then Thothmes I. built the court
of Osiride columns, and put up the
two obelisks in the open space outside
it. The great obelisks inside the
Osiride court were erected to his
memory by his daughter Hatshepsu,
whose name also appears on the walls
of some of the chambers near the
sanctuary. Thothmes I. also erected
the three great pylons in front of the
sanctuary, and rebuilt part of the
latter. Some years later, King
Thothmes III. made considerable
additions to the buildings and sculptures,
and erected the great columnar
edifice at the extreme east of the
enclosure of the Great Temple. He
also built the two pylons facing
towards the South.
The sanctuary, destroyed by the
Persians, and since rebuilt by Philip
Aridæus, was also of the same Pharaoh,
who seems to have been the
first to build it of red granite, and a
block of that stone which now forms
part of the ceiling, and bears the
name of the 3rd Thothmes, belonged
most probably to the sanctuary he
rebuilt.
At the close of his reign the temple
only extended to the smaller obelisks;
before which were added, by Amen
hotep III., the towers of the propylon,
whose recesses for the flagstaffs,
proving them to have been originally
the front towers of the temple, are
still visible on the W. face.
The Great Hall was added by Sethi
I., the 3rd king of the XIXth Dynasty;
and besides the innumerable
bas-reliefs that adorn its walls, historical

scenes, in the most finished and
elegant style of Egyptian sculpture,
were designed on the exterior of the
N. side.
In the reign of Sethi's son, Rameses
II., great additions were made. He
completed the sculptures on the S.
side of the Great Hall, and on the exterior
of the wall of circuit. He also
built the area in front, with massive
propyla, preceded by granite colossi
and an avenue of sphinxes. It may
be worth noting in connection with
this part of the building that on a
statue in the Munich Museum is an
inscription giving an account of the
career of the person represented, one
Bekenkhonsoo, “skilled in art, and
the first prophet of Amen,” in which
the following passage occurs:— “I
performed the best I could for the
people of Amen, as architect of my
lord. I executed the pylon ‘of Rameses
II., the friend of Amen, who
listens to those who pray to him'
(thus is he named), at the first gate
of the Temple of Amen. I placed
obelisks at the same made of granite.
Their height reached to the vault of
heaven. A propylon is before the same
in sight of the city of Thebes, and
ponds and gardens, with flourishing
trees. I made two great double doors
of gold. Their height reaches to
heaven. I caused to be made a double
pair of great masts. I set them up in
the splendid court in sight of his
temple.”
Succeeding monarchs continued to
display their piety, to gratify their
own vanity, or to court the goodwill
of the priesthood, by making additions
to the buildings erected by their predecessors;
and the several isolated
monuments, becoming attached to the
principal pile, formed at length one
immense whole, connected either by
great avenues of sphinxes, or by crudebrick
enclosures.
The principal edifices united to the
main temple by the successors of the
2nd Rameses are the three chambers
below the front propylon, and the
small but complete temple (L) on the
W. side of the large area; the latter
by Rameses III., the former by his
second predecessor, Sethi, or Osirei, II.
Several sculptures were added, during
the XXIInd Dynasty, at the western
corner of the same area. The columns
in this court, one alone of which is
now standing, bear the name of
Tirhakah, Psammetichus II., and of
Ptolemy Philopator; and the gateway
between them and the grand hall
having been altered by Ptolemy
Physcon, additional sculptures, bearing
his name, were inserted amidst
those of the 2nd Rameses. On the
left, as you enter, he wears a Greek
helmet.
It will be seen from the above
account that the earliest name found
on any of the buildings of the Great
Temple is that of Osirtasen I., and
the latest that of Alexander II., whose
name appears in one of the small
chambers belonging to the columnar
edifice of Thothmes III.
Historical Sculptures.—The principal
historical sculptures are on the
exterior of the Great Hall. They were
commenced by Sethi I., and finished
by his son Rameses II.
Exterior of Great Hall—North Wall.
—These relate to the campaigns of
Sethi I., in the East.
Beginning at the W. end (a): the
upper compartment represents the king
attacking a fortified town situated on a
rock, which is surrounded by a wood,
and lies in the immediate vicinity
of the mountains, whither the flying
enemy drive off their herds on the
approach of the Egyptian army. The
suite of it is entirely lost.
In the first compartment of the
second line, the king engages the
enemy's infantry in the open field,
and, having wounded their chief with
a lance, entangles him with his bowstring
and slays him with his sword.
The drawing in these figures is remarkably
spirited; and, allowance
being made for the conventional style
of the Egyptian, it must be admitted
that the principal groups in all these
subjects are admirably designed. In
the second compartment (following
the same line) the Egyptian hero,
having alighted from his car, fights

hand-in-hand with the chiefs of the
hostile army: one has already fallen
beneath his spear, and, trampling on
the prostrate foe, he seizes his companion,
who is also destined to fall
by his powerful hand. Returning
in triumph, he leads before his car
the fettered captives, whom he offers,
with the spoil of the cities he has
taken, to Amen-ra, the god of Thebes.
This consists of vases, silver, gold,
and other precious things, and whatever
the monarch has been enabled to
collect from the plunder of the
conquered country.
The lowest line commences with
an encounter between the Egyptians
and the chariots and infantry of the
Rotennoo. Their chief is wounded by
the arrows of the Egyptian monarch,
who closely pursues him, and disables
one of his horses with a spear. He
then attempts to quit his car, as his
companion falls by his side covered
with wounds. The rout of the hostile
army is complete, and they fly in the
utmost consternation. One is on
horse-back. The victorious return of
King Sethi is the next subject; and,
alighting from his chariot, he enters
the temple of Amen-ra, to present his
captives and booty to the protecting
deity of Thebes. He then slays with
a club the prisoners of the two
conquered nations, in the presence of
Amen-ra, the names of whose towns
and districts are attached to other
figures on the lower part of the
wall.
The order of the other historical
subject commences at the N.E. angle.
In the lower line the Egyptians
attack the infantry of an Asiatic
enemy in the open field,—the Rotennoo,
whose dress and colour, if they
are the same as those represented
in the Theban tombs, prove them to
have inhabited a country very far to
the N. of Egypt. The Egyptians subdue
them and make them captives;
and their march, perhaps during their
return, is directed through a series of
districts, some of which are at peace
with, others tributary to them. The
inhabitants of one of these fortified
cities come out to meet them, bringing
presents of vases and bags of gold,
which, with every demonstration of
respect, they lay before the monarch,
as he advances through their country.
He afterwards meets with opposition,
and is obliged to attack a hostile
army, and a strongly fortified town,
situated on a high rock, and surrounded
by water, with the exception
of that part which is rendered inaccessible
by the steepness of the cliff
on whose verge it is built. It seems
to defy the Egyptian army, but the
enemy are routed and sue for peace.
(This is at the angle of the wall.)
Their arms are a spear and battle-axe,
and they are clad in a coat of
mail, with a short and close dress.
The name of the town Kanana (or
Kanaan), and the early date of the
first year of the king's reign, leave
little room to doubt that the defeat of
the Canaanites is here represented.
In the other compartments is represented
the return of the Pharaoh
to Thebes, leading in triumph the
captives he has taken in the war,
followed by his son and a “royal
scribe,” with a body of Egyptian
soldiers, “the royal attendants, who
have accompanied him to the foreign
land of the Rotennoo.”
The succession of countries and
districts he passes through on his
return is singularly but ingeniously
detailed: a woody and well-watered
country is indicated by trees and lakes,
and the consequence of each town by
the size of the fort that represents it;
bearing a slight analogy to the simple
style of description in Xenophon's
retreat.
The Nile is designated by the crocodiles
and fish peculiar to that river:
and a bridge serves as a communication
with the opposite bank. This is
very remarkable, as it shows they had
bridges over the Nile at that early
period; but being drawn as seen from
above, we cannot decide whether it
was made with arches or rafters. A
concourse of the priests and distinguished
inhabitants of a large city
comes forth to greet his arrival; and
he then proceeds on foot to offer the
spoil and captives he has taken to

the deity. Though probable, it is by
no means certain, that Thebes is here
represented, especially as the name of
that city does not occur in the hieroglyphics.
The deputation consists of
the “priests and the chief men of the
upper and lower countries;” it should
therefore rather refer to his entrance
into Egypt; and Tanis would agree
better with the hieroglyphics. But
Thebes is more likely to be represented
in Theban sculptures. The
battlemented edifices on the road,
bearing the name of the king, appear
to be out of Egypt; and may either
point out the places where he had a
palace, or signify that they were tributary
to him.
In the compartments of the upper
line the Egyptians attack the enemy
in the open field, and oblige them to
take shelter in a fortified town, situated
on a lofty hill flanked by a lake
of water. Near its banks and on
the acclivity of the mountain, are
several trees and caverns; amongst
which some lie concealed, while
others, alarmed for the fate of their
city, throw dust on their heads, and
endeavour to deprecate the wrath of
the victor. The chariots are routed,
and the king, having seized the hostile
chief, smites off his head, which he
holds by the beard. The pursuit of
the enemy continues, and they take
refuge amidst the lofty trees that
crown the heights of their mountainous
country. The Egyptians follow
them to the woods, and heralds are
sent by the king to offer them their
lives, on condition of their future
obedience to his will, and the payment
of an annual tribute. The
name of the place, called in the
hieroglyphics Lemanon, is probably
Mount Lebanon (m and b being
transmutable letters), though, from
its being mentioned with the Rotennoo,
it should be farther to the northward;
unless the Rotennoo were a
Syrian people. Alighting from his
car, he awaits their answer, which is
brought by an Egyptian officer, who
on his return salutes his sovereign,
and relates the success of his mission.
In the third compartment, the hero,
who in the heat of the fight had
alighted from his chariot, gives proofs
of his physical powers as well as
his courage, and grasps beneath each
arm two captive chiefs; while others,
bound with ropes, follow to adorn his
triumph, and grace the offerings of
his victory to the god of Thebes.
South Wall. — At the W. end of
this wall are some very interesting
sculptures (b). They are near the
gateway leading into the open area.
They commemorate a victorious campaign
undertaken by the 1st king of
the XXIInd Dynasty, Sheshonk I.,
the Shishak of the Bible, against
Palestine. To the right Shishak is
represented with upraised arm in the
act of striking a group of captives at
his feet. To the left, the god Amen
of Thebes, and the Thebaïd, personified
under the form of a woman
holding a quiver, a box, and a mace,
present themselves before him. Behind them are 150 persons whose
heads alone are visible, their bodies
being hidden by a sort of battlemented
shield, on which is figured the plan
of a fortified town. These 150 heads
and shields, as we learn from the
hieroglyphics, represent the towns
taken by Shishak in his campaign.
The name of Judah Melek on the 29th
shield led Champollion to suppose
that the head surmounting it was
that of the King of Judah, Rehoboam,
vanquished by Shishak. But M.
Brugsch has shown that Judah Melek
can only be considered, like the
others, as the name of some place in
Palestine. Indeed all the faces are of
one type, intended no doubt to symbolise
the general cast of features of
the conquered people; though that,
perhaps, can be found more distinctly
traced in the physiognomies of the
prisoners whom the conqueror is about
to strike. Mr. Petrie has made a
most interesting collection of casts of
the different types of foreigners
which are represented in the sculptures
at Thebes and Karnak, and
careful study of these may throw
some new light on the various nationalities.
Continuing eastwards along this

same S. wall, we reach a wall jutting
out from it at right angles, on the
west face of which is a stela, containing
the treaty of peace concluded
between Rameses II. and Khetasir,
king of the Khetas or Hittites, in the
21st year of the reign of the former
prince. The inscription is the more
interesting as containing the text of
the first extradition treaty on record
(see Brugsch's ‘History of Egypt,'
vol. ii. p. 68, and ‘Records of the
Past,' iv. 25). The incidents probably
of the war which preceded this peace
are sculptured on the main wall to
the west of this side wall (c). And
to the east of it, on the main wall,
is a long column of hieroglyphics
containing the famous poem of Pentaoor,
recounting the great feats of
arms accomplished by Rameses II.
This poem is repeated on the walls of
the temples of Abydus, Luxor, and
Aboo-Simbel, as well as here, and a
copy of it is preserved in a papyrus
in the British Museum. The first to
present a translation of it to the
world was M. de Rougé. An English
translation of it will be found in
Brugsch's ‘History of Egypt,' vol. ii.
p. 53, and in ‘Records of the Past,'
ii. 65. There are a variety of other
warlike scenes, all more or less like
those already described.
Other Buildings and Remains.
North Side.—The first ruins met with
to the N. of the Great Hall are those
of a little temple with the names of
Psammetichus II. and Amasis. About
150 yards eastward of this are the
remains of the small Temple of Ptah,
in which are found the names of
Thothmes III., Rameses III., Sabaco,
Tirhaka, and two of the Ptolemies.
This temple was built against the
great exterior wall which surrounded
the principal monuments at Karnak,
and the remains of which can still be
seen on the E., W., and S. sides.
On the other side of this enclosure
is the Temple of Amenhotep III.,
dedicated to the same deity as the
great temple. It was once adorned
with elegant sculptures and two granite
obelisks, but is now a confused
heap of ruins, whose plan is with
difficulty traced beneath its fallen
walls. The entrance to it is on the
N. and was approached by an avenue
of sphinxes, of which some are still
in their places. They lead up to a
well-proportioned pylon, bearing the
names and sculptures of Ptolemy
Euergetes with Berenice, and of Philopator;
but it is of a much earlier
date than the sculptures it bears, as
attached to it are two statues of
Rameses II. It is the only portion of
this building which has remained
uninjured; and, though we may with
reason attribute much of the ruinous
condition of Thebes to the Persians,
the names on this pylon, and many
Ptolemaïc additions to the temple of
Amen, fully prove that its capture by
Lathyrus was far more detrimental to
this city than the previous invasion of
Cambyses.
To the W. of the temple is a small
building with the name of Neetanebo I.
East Side.—A little beyond the
columnar edifice of Thothmes III. are
the ruins of a small temple, beyond
which a magnificent Pylon leads
through the wall of enclosure. The
sculptures of it have never been
completed. In the doorway is the
name of Nectanebo, and on the upper
part of the S.E. side those of Ptolemy
Philadelphus, and of Arsinoë, his sister
and second wife. In the area
within this gateway are a few other
remains of the time of Sethi I., Rameses
II., Tirhakah, Ptolemy Physcon,
Dionysus, and Tiberius. All the
ground to the N.E. is covered with
mounds and crudo-brick remains,
among which may be noticed the
ruins of a Temple of Ptolemy Euergetes
I.
close to the village of Nega el-Fokanee;
and on the S.E. a small enclosure
with a door in each of its four
sides, within which are some ruins,
and an inscription giving an account
of the invasion of Egypt by the
Greeks in the time of Meneptah.
South Side.—Close to the S. wall of

the eastern part of the Great Temple
is a crude-brick enclosure surrounding
a lake, which still receives an annual
supply of water by infiltration from
the Nile, but is strongly impregnated
with nitre and other salts, and stagnant
during the summer. This lake
is lined with masonry. To the S. of it
are the remains of some building with
the names of Rameses II. and Psammonthis.
And to the S.W. again is a
small building with a pylon, and
bearing the names of Amenhotep II.
and III.
Returning from these unimportant
ruins to the S. end of the open court
between the Great Hall and the Hall
of Osiride Pillars, we have in front of
us, looking S., a long avenue marked
at certain distances by Four Pylons,
resembling so many triumphal gates,
and which was adorned by an avenue
of Colossal Statues. All these pylons
are more or less ruined, and the first
and fourth almost entirely so; and
only two of the statues remain in front
of the second from the Great Temple.
They all bear the name of the Thothmes'
and other kings of the XVIIIth
Dynasty. The third has the name
of Horus cut over that of Amenhotep
IV. or Khoo-en-aten, the monarch represented
in the grottos of Tel el-Amarna.
From the last of these pylons an
avenue of sphinxes leads to a crudebrick
enclosure within which is
another lake of semicircular form,
and the ruins of the Temple of Maut,
the second of the great Theban triad.
This building appears to have consisted
of a pylon, leading into a court
with ten columns, from which another
pylon led into a second court, also
with columns; from this a vestibule
with a double row of six columns
opened into a row of chambers which
constituted the sanctuary. It bears
the names of Thothmes III., Amenhotep
III., Rameses II. and Tirhakah.
In the two first courts, and in the
passages on the E. and W., are
numerous Statues of Pasht, the lionheaded
goddess, all of black granite
and uniform in form and style. They
are ranged close to one another
along the wall, sometimes in one,
sometimes in two rows. Most of them
are without inscriptions, but some
have the names of Amenhotep III.
and Sheshonk. To the N.W. and
S.E. of this enclosure are two smaller
temples.
The temple of Rameses III., preceded
by the pylon of Ptolemy Euergetes
by which we approached Karnak,
and the other temple of the same
monarch attached to the wall of the
area preceding the Great Hall, have
been already mentioned.
This brief sketch will serve to give
the traveller some idea of the various
remains of Karnak. To unravel any
complete and satisfactory plan from
such a mass of ruin is almost a hopeless
task. Perhaps the best way of
viewing Karnak is to regard it simply
as the most wonderful thing of its
kind in the world, alike for its size,
its grandeur, and the incredible mass
of ruins it presents.
The destruction of Karnak has been
variously attributed to the effects of
an earthquake in the year 27 B.C., to
the religious animosity of Cambyses
and the Persians, and to the fury of
Ptolemy Lathyrus, who was exasperated
against his revolted Theban
subjects for having stood a protracted
siege of several months. One or all
of these causes may have contributed
towards the general destruction; but
it is possible that there is another
reason for it, which has been pointed
out by Mariette Pasha. “Is it not probable,”
he says, “that it (the destruction
of the Great Temple of Karnak)
is the effect of the faults in its construction,
and of its position with
regard to the Nile and the surrounding
plain, the pavement being some
7 ft. below the soil? The Pharaonic
temples are indeed generally very
carelessly built. The west pylon, for
example, has settled down simply because
it was hollow; and, therefore,
the inclination of its walls, instead of
being a means of strengthening it, has
merely helped its fall. It must be
noted, besides, that Karnak, more than
any other Egyptian temple, has for a
long time suffered from infiltrations

from the Nile, whose waters saturated
with nitre eat into the sandstone.
The temple of Karnak has thus
suffered more than any other from the
negligence of its builders, and more
especially from its position with regard
to the Nile: and as the same causes
produce the same effects, the time
may be foreseen when, with crash
after crash, the columns of the magnificent
hypostyle hall, whose bases are
already three parts eaten through,
will fall, as have fallen the columns
in the great court preceding it.”

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509

SECTION IX.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FROM THEBES TO THE
FIRST CATARACT (ASSOOAN AND PHILÆ).

PAGE
ROUTE 20. Luxor (Thebes) to Assooán, the First Cataract, and Philæ. 509

ROUTE 20.
LUXOR (THEBES) TO ASSOOAN, THE
FIRST CATARACT, AND PHILÆ.

Miles.
Luxor to Erment 8 1/2
Esneh 26
El-Kalh (Eileithyias) 17 1/2
Edfoo 13 1/2
Hagar Silsileh 26
Kom Ombo 15
Assooán 26 1/2
133
Philæ 5
There is nothing of any interest
between Luxor and Erment.
(W.) Erment, 8 1/2 m. The ruins of
Erment, the ancient Hermonthis , lie
at some distance from the river. The
boat usually stops close to a large
sugar factory on the W. bank, picturesquely
surrounded by trees and
gardens, and with a small village
attached to it. The whole aspect of
the country here is very pretty. On
the left bank are fine avenues of
sycamore-figs, running alongside the
river and inland; on the right are
some picturesque villages with groups
of trees, and bright patches of cultivation,
while, as a background to the
whole, rises the yellow desert and a
splendid range of mountains. The
large dogs of Erment are celebrated.
They make good watch dogs.
The ruins of Erment are hardly
worth a visit. Extensive mounds
mark the site of the old town, which
was of very early origin. The large
temple has been long destroyed,
and its materials probably used in
the construction of the Christian
church whose remains can still be
traced. The few ruins still standing
are those of the mammeisi, or “lying
in-house,” where Reto, the second
member of the triad of the place, gave
birth to Horpi-ra, the infant child of
that goddess and of Mentu. It was
built by the celebrated Cleopatra, who
is there accompanied by Neocæsar, or
Cæsarion, her son by Julius Cæsar,
and consisted of an exterior court,
formed by two rows of columns connected
by intercolumnar screens, a
small transverse colonnade, serving
as a portico, at right angles with the
former, and the naos, which is divided
into two chambers. Cleopatra was
represented adoring Basis, the bull of
Hermonthis. This sacred animal is
found on the reverse of the coins of
the Hermonthite nome. Its head is
depressed, while that of Apis on the
Memphite coins is raised, which may
serve as a distinguishing mark when
the legend containing the name of
the nome has disappeared.
There is also a reservoir cased
with hewn stone, appertaining to the

temple, the water of which, Wansleb
says, was used in his time for bleaching
linen. The same traveller mentions
a tradition of the people claiming
for their town the honour of
having been the birthplace of Moses.
The Christian church dates from
the time of the lower empire. It was
evidently of considerable size, measuring
75 paces by 33 (about 190 ft.
by 85); and from the style of the
small portion of the outer wall that
still remains, and its granite columns,
there is little doubt that it was
erected after Christianity had become
the established religion of the country.
(E.) Tuot, in Coptic Thouôt, the
ancient Tuphium, lies 3/4 hr. from the
river, in the district of Selemeeyeh,
and is easily distinguished by its
lofty minaret. The only ruins consist
of a small temple, probably also
a mammeisi, now nearly concealed by
the hovels of the villagers who inhabit
the few chambers that remain. On
one of the blackened walls is the
name of Ptolemy Physcon. It presents
little worthy of a visit.
The river above Erment is intersected
by numerous sandbanks, and
the navigation, unless the wind is
favourable, is very tedious.
(W.) Gebelayn, “the two hills,” is
a curious detached ridge of rocks.
There are vestiges of an ancient town
on the hill nearest the river, and
some grottos. It may have been the
site of Crocodilopolis, the next town
on the W. bank mentioned by Strabo
after Hermonthis.
(W.) A few miles above Gebelayn
the river makes a very sharp bend,
and at the corner on the W. bank is
the newly sprung up village of Mutáneh,
with a large pumping-engine
establishment for sending water along
an aqueduct to the inland town of
Wády Geem, some distance from the
river.
(W.) Tofnées is on the site of an
ancient town, perhaps Aphroditopolis ;
as Asfoon of Asphinis: and in the
plain, about 2 3/4 m. to the N.W. of
Esneh, was the small temple of Ed-Dayr
(“the Convent”), which marked,
perhaps, the position of Chnoubis;
though Ptolemy seems to place it on
the E. bank, 20' S. of Tuphium, and
15' N. of Eileithyias. Chnoubis and
Chnumis were the same place; as
Chnouphis, Noub, or Noum, were the
same god.
(W.) Esneh , 26 miles, in the hieroglyphs
Senee, was known to the
Greeks and Romans by the name of
Latopolis , from the worship of the
Latus fish, which, according to Strabo,
shared with Minerva the honours of
the sanctuary. It is the capital of
the province of the same name, and
residence of the governor; and possesses
a population of 9400 inhabitants.
There was formerly a considerable
trade with the Sudan, but
this has almost entirely stopped since
the Mahdi's rebellion and subsequent
abandonment of that country, which
has caused serious loss to the merchants.
The road from Esneh to the
Sudan leads in a S.W. direction
through the small oasis of Koorkoor,
There is also a road to the oasis of
Khargeh (see Route 17.) Esneh is a
good place for laying in live stock
for the remainder of the voyage up to
the 2nd Cataract, as, though they are
not much dearer at Assooán, the
supply of sheep, turkeys, and chickens
is more limited, and in Nubia everything
is very dear. Many of the
houses have inscriptions over the
doors in Coptic, and some in Coptic
and Arabic.
The usual mooring-place at Esneh
is at the upper end of the town, close
under the numerous coffee-shops adjoining
the separate hamlet inhabited
by the Ghawázee or dancing-girls,
who have a numerous colony here.
Those, however, who prefer quiet to
noise should moor below the town.
They will, no doubt, find various
objections started to this proposal, as
the crew naturally prefer society and
the coffee-shops.
Esneh has the reputation of being
the healthiest place in Egypt. Its
air and that of the immediate neighbourhood
is considered particularly
good for invalids, who are constantly
sent by the native doctors for the

benefit of the change from Cairo and
Alexandria. The temperature is
more even than either at Thebes or
Assooán—the nights being fresh with-out
being cold, and the day's warmth
nearly always tempered by a breeze
from the N.
The Temple of Esneh is in the
middle of the town. The hall of
columns which was cleared out by Mohammed
Ali, during his visit to Esneh
in 1842, is the only part visible.
The remainder is buried beneath the
houses of the modern town. Whatever
may have been the date of
the inner portion of this temple, the
portico merely presents the names of
some of the early Cæsars; those of
Tiberius Claudius Cæsar, Germanicus,
and Autocrator Cæsar Vespasianus,
occurring in the dedication over the
entrance; and those of Trajan, Adrian,
and Antoninus in the interior. Mention
is also made of Thothmes III., by
whom the original temple was perhaps
founded, and dedicated to the ram-headed
god, Kneph, here called Shoo.
On the ceiling is a zodiac, similar
to that of Denderah: and upon the
pilasters, on either side of the front
row of columns are several lines of
hieroglyphics, which are interesting
from their containing the names of
the Egyptian months. The capitals
of the pillars are very striking. It is
to be hoped that the whole of the
temple will be cleared out at some
future time.
Extensive mounds sufficiently prove
the size and consequence of ancient
Latopolis; but no remains are now
visible, except the portico of the
temple and the remains of a stone
quay on the E. side. That the latter
is of Roman date may be inferred
from the style of the building.
Wansleb mentions the tombs of
Christian martyrs, who were buried
near Esneh, and are believed to have
been put to death during the persecutions
of Diocletian. But report also
states that the Christians who fled
from Medeenet Háboo at the time of
the Arab invasion, and were overtaken
and slain at Esneh, were buried in the
same spot.
Near Esneh are two ancient dayrs.
Dayr Manaos wa Shenoodée, on the
S., is of very early date, and the
Empress Helena is claimed as its
foundress. There are several early
sepulchral inscriptions worked into
the walls. One circular stone bears
the Labarum and A EI EOB-HN//.
Another reads PEBEKKA.
The church is a maze of small domed
chapels, and contains remains of very
ancient fresco paintings with Coptic
inscriptions. Dayr Amba Mattaos, on
the N., is two hours distant; it contains
nothing of any particular interest.
(E.) Near the village of El-Helleh,
on the opposite bank, stood the small
town of Contra-Laton.
The subcarbonate of soda, natron, is
found in the vicinity of El-Helleh.
The Ababdeh also bring from the
eastern desert a talcose stone, called
hamr, for which there is a great demand
throughout Upper Egypt, being
peculiarly adapted to the manufacture
of the birám, or earthen vessels for
cooking, which have the power of resisting
a great degree of heat, and are
universally used by the peasants. It
is the lapis ollaris of the Romans.
The hamr is first pounded and sifted;
and, after being moistened and mixed
with brickdust, is fashioned with the
hand, and baked in a kiln heated to a
proper temperature. But they have
not yet become acquainted with the
process of vitrifying their pottery, for
which the Arabs were once so famous;
and the glazed earthenware now used
in Egypt is imported from foreign
countries.
(W.) Seven miles above Esneh are
mounds of an old town, now called
Kom Ayr; and four miles farther is
El-Kenán. A short distance above
which, and about 14 m. from Esneh,
is an ancient quay of hewn stone.
Some suppose it to mark the site of
Chnoubis.
(W.) Three miles beyond this, and
a short distance from the river, is a
ruined pyramid, called El-Koóla. It
is built in degrees, and is composed
of limestone blocks, from the rock on
which, it stands, of irregular form, and

hewn with little care. Though in a
dilapidated state, 25 tiers still remain,
and its total height, now reduced to
about 35 ft., may perhaps originally
have exceeded 50; the base being
about 60 ft. square.
(W.) Four miles farther is El-Kom
el-ahmor
, or “the Red Mound.” It
marks the site of Hieraconpolis ,
which, as Strabo informs us, was
opposite Eileithyias; and though
little now exists of the ancient buildings
that once adorned the “City
of the Hawks,” the name of the first
Osirtasen suffices to establish their
claim to a very remote antiquity.
Professor Sayce has copied some inscriptions
here which date from the
reign of Thothmes II. A translation
is given in vol. x. of the Proceedings
of the Society of Biblical Archaeology.
The inscription concerns a certain
Thoth who seems to have held a high
position in this part of the country.
About half a mile to the eastward of
them is an Egyptian fortress of crude
brick, with the usual double wall,
the inner one being of considerable
height. It has one entrance between
two towers.
In the hills about two-thirds of a
mile to the S.W. of it are some rock-tombs,
with hieroglyphics, mentioning
“the land of the Hawks,” of which
one person is said to be the “Highpriest.”
The name of Thothmes III.
also occurs there. One of the stones
that covered the pit in this priest's
tomb still remains in situ, and on the
outer wall are traces of dancing figures
painted on the stucco. The small
tombs here were perhaps intended for
the sacred hawks. In some mounds
to the E. of the fortress are two small
brick arches, 2 ft. 7 in. broad, which
appear to be very old; and a quarter
of a mile to E. of these are the mounds
of the town (with the remains of polygonal
columns of Osirtasen) already
mentioned.
Opposite El-Kenán commences the
region of sandstone, whose compact
and even grain induced the ancient
Egyptians to employ it in the erection
of most of the large buildings in Upper
Egypt
(E.) A short distance from El-Mabamíd
is an isolated rock, which
was quarried at an early period, and
on whose southern side the workmen
have sculptured a few rude triglyphs.
The rock presents a very picturesque
appearance.
(E.) Between this and El-Kalh
stood a small peripteral temple, which
has suffered the fate of all the interesting
ruins of Eileithyias.
(E.) El-Kalh, 17 1/2 m. is the modern
name of Eileithyias or ,
“the City of Lucina,” in the hieroglyphs
Nekheb. The town was surrounded
by a large crude-brick wall;
and on the S. side was another enclosure,
furnished with doorways of
masonry, which contained the temples,
and a reservoir cased with hewn
stone. On the E. is an open space
of considerable extent, also within
the walls, which have several spacious
staircases, or inclined planes, leading
to the parapet, as usual in the fortified
towns of ancient Egypt.
Eileithyias was a very old city, as
is shown by the names of the kings
found among the remains, which
include those of monarchs of the
VIth, XIIth, and XVIIIth Dynasties.
Ra shared with Lucina the worship
of the city; but most of the dedications,
in the sacred buildings that
remain, only present the name of the
goddess.
The principal ruins consist of
three temples which lie to the E. of
the river in the desert, and may be
visited in the order named. The
first reached a short distance up the
valley on the left is a Temple of
Rameses III.
, a small naos dedicated
to Ra. A little farther is a small
Ptolemaïc Temple partly built and
partly excavated. It was consecrated
to Lucina by Physcon or Euergetes II.,
and the courts in front were built
at a later period by Ptolemy Alexander
I.: who, with his mother Cleopatra,
added some of the sculptures
on the exterior of the subterranean
chamber. The front court is composed
of columns united by intercolumnar
screens, and opens by a

pylon on a staircase of considerable
length, having on each side a solid
balustrade of masonry; and on the
face of the rock, to the E. of the inner
court, is a tablet of the time of
Rameses II., who presents an offering
to Ra and Lucina.
On the isolated rock beyond these
two temples are the names of Teta
and Pepi of the VIth Dynasty. About
a mile farther on in the same valley
to the eastward, altogether about 2 1/2
miles from the river, is the Temple
of Amenhotep III.
, also dedicated to
Lucina. It consists of a single
chamber supported by four columns,
measuring 11 paces by 9, with a paved
platform on three sides, and an open
area in front, 8 paces by 17, formed
by columns and intercolumnar screens;
to which the pylon, connected with
the body of the temple by a double
row of columns, forms the entrance.
The subjects of the interior are
mostly offerings made by king Amenhotep
to the contemplar deities; and
near the door are represented this
Pharaoh and his father Thothmes IV.
On one of the jambs of the door the
name of king Sethi I. has usurped
the place of his ancestor's prenomen;
and beyond, on the outside wall, is a
tablet of the 41st year of Rameses
II., in which the fourth son of that
Pharaoh, a priest of Ptah, is attending
his father in the capacity of
fan-bearer.
The drawing and painting in this
little temple are very good, and in
some places the colour is well preserved.
On returning from this ruin, and
following the bed of the valley, nearly
opposite the naos of Rameses, the
geologist may examine the numerous
ponds, on whose brink is found natron,
or subcarbonate of soda. Or he may
continue a little beyond the temple of
Amenhotep III., and then turn to the
down a broad valley, also filled with
numerous natron ponds, and which
will bring him to the river near the
isolated rock above mentioned, about
2 m. below the crude-brick fortress
near which he landed.
The most interesting objects at
[Egypt.—PT. II.]
Eileithyias are the Grottos in the
mountain to the N. of the ancient
town, some of which date from the
XIIth Dynasty.
The third to the eastward is the
Tomb of Aahmes, which from the inscription
which covers it is a most
curious and interesting chronological
monument. We learn from it that
Aahmes, the son of Abena, was a captain
of the fleet who took a prominent
part in the war waged by Amosis, the
founder of the XVIIIth Dynasty,
against the Hyksos, and assisted in the
capture of their capital Avaris. He
also served under the succeeding
kings. The whole inscription has been
translated (see Brugsch's ‘History of
Egypt,' vol. i. p. 248), and is of great
historical importance for the light
which it throws on the obscure period
between the end of the XIIIth and
the beginning of the XVIIIth Dynasties.
Above this grotto is the Tomb of
Pahir
, or Pheri, a grandson of Aahmes.
He was governor of the nome, and his
family seem to have held the same
office during several generations.
Pheri himself was “nurse to a prince
of the royal family”—Uetmes, the
second son of King Amosis, who is
represented sitting in his lap. This
office also seems to have been to a
certain extent hereditary in the family,
as in one of the other tombs another
Pheri is mentioned as having held
it. This tomb is in good preservation,
containing coloured drawings relating
to agricultural and other occupations
of the early Egyptians. The outlines
of the figures and the subjects here
detailed, though of inferior style, are
interesting. In the first line of the
agricultural scene, on the western
wall, the peasants are employed in
ploughing and sowing; and from the
car which is seen in the field, we
are to infer that the owner of the
land (who is also the individual of
the tomb) has come to overlook them
at their work. In the second line
they reap wheat and doora; the distinction
being pointed out by their
respective heights. In the third is
the carrying, and tritura, or treading-out

the ear, which was generally performed
throughout Egypt by means
of oxen; and the winnowing, measuring,
and housing the grain. The
doora or sorghum was not submitted
to the same process as the wheat, nor
was it reaped by the sickle; but after
having been plucked up by the roots,
was bound in sheaves, and carried to
the threshing-floor, where, by means of
a wooden beam, whose upper extremity
was furnished with three or four
prongs, the grain was stripped from
the stalks, which were forcibly drawn
through them. The text accompanying
these scenes gives the song sung
by the labourers as they drive the
oxen. The hieroglyphics have been
differently deciphered and translated,
but the following paraphrastic rendering
by Mr. Gliddon aptly gives
the sense:
“Hie along, oxen! tread the corn faster;
The straw for yourselves, the corn for
your master.”
Below are the cattle, asses, pigs,
and goats belonging to the deceased,
which are brought to be numbered
and registered by his scribes. In
another part they weigh the gold, his
property; and fowling and fishing
scenes, the occupation of salting fish
and geese, the wine-press, boats, a
party of guests, the procession of the
bier, and some sacred subjects occupy
the remainder of the wall.
From these, and other paintings,
we find that the boats of that period
were richly coloured and of considerable
size. They were furnished
with at least twelve or fourteen oars,
and, besides a spacious cabin, there
was sufficient room to take on board
a chariot and pair of horses, which
we see here represented. Such were
the painted boats that surprised the
Arabs when they invaded the country.
On the opposite side, the individual
of the tomb, seated with his wife on a
handsome fauteuil, to which a favourite
monkey is tied, entertains a party
of his friends; the men and women
seated apart. Music is introduced, as
was customary at all Egyptian entertainments,
but the only instruments
here are the double pipe, clappers,
and harp.
The greater part of the remaining
tombs are very imperfectly preserved;
but some of them still present a few
useful hints for the study of Egyptian
chronology. One, much ruined, belonged
to Ranni, who lived under one
of the Sebekhoteps of the XIIIth Dynasty.
The latest is perhaps that of
Setau, priest of the goddess Neben,
under Rameses II.
Those behind the hill are not
so interesting.
To the S. of the ruins, near the
river, are the remains of a stone quay.
Some time before reaching Edfoo
the propylon of its magnificent temple
can be seen towering up on the W
bank.
(W.) Edfoo. 13 1/2 m. (in Coptic,
Phbôou, or Atbo; in the hieroglyphics
it is called Teb), is the ancient Apollinopolis
Magna.
The village, of about
6000 inhabitants, is half a mile from
the river-bank.
In the middle of it stands the
Temple, entirely surrounded by mud-huts
and heaps of rubbish. It is only
since 1864 that anything but the propylon
has been visible. Up to that
time its terraces and roofs were covered
with the mud-huts of the villagers,
and the inside filled with débris of all
kinds up to the roof. To clear it out
was one of the first works undertaken
by M. Mariette, after his appointment
as conservator of the monuments of
old Egypt, and director of the excavations
and researches in connection
with them. As a perfect specimen
of an Egyptian temple, complete in
all its parts, that of Edfoo stands
unrivalled; for, though Denderah is
as complete, so far as the actual
temple is concerned, the magnificent
propylon towers at Edfoo, and the
wall of enclosure, are quite unique.
The temple was founded by Ptolemy
Philopator, who built the sanctuary
and the chambers round it, and, indeed,
all the back part of the temple.
The name of Ptolemy Philometer is
found in the centre halls, and their

decoration is probably due to him.
The portico was constructed by
Ptolemy Philometer and Euergetes
II.; the latter of whom also built
part of the wall of enclosure, the other
part being the work of Ptolemy Alexander
I. The pylon, or propylon,
was either built or decorated by
Ptolemy Dionysus.
The whole length of the temple,

Plan of Temple of Edfoo.

including the propylon and the wall
of circuit, is about 450 ft. The
breadth of the propylon is about
250 ft. and height 115 ft. The hollows
in its outside facade were for
holding the huge flagstaffs with which
it was decorated.
The Plan of the temple of Edfoo
resembles in its general features that
of Denderah, and the same religious
ideas and feelings which have been
alluded to in the description of that
temple are evident here. From the
pylon (AA), which is decorated with
battle scenes in imitation of those on
the early Pharaonic temples, we pass
into the First Court (B), surrounded
on three sides by a peristyle of 32
columns. In the walls of the pylon
which form the S. side of this court
are two doors, each opening on a staircase
of 145 steps leading to the top
of the pylon. These staircases are
lighted by embrasures and are divided
into 14 stages, each landing place
having some small store rooms. The
View from the top of the pylon is very
fine. The First Hall (C) has 18
columns, between the first line of
which on either side of the entrance
is a high stone screen. The Second
Hall
(D) is supported by 12 columns,
and has small rooms opening from it
on either side and leading to the outside
passage (H). A small chamber
(E) follows, communicating on either
side with a staircase, of which the
one on the left goes straight up to the
roof, while that on the right leads to
numerous small chambers and passages.
Then comes another small
chamber (F), with a room on each
side; and to this succeeds the Sanctuary
(G), in the corner of which is a
magnificent monolith of grey granite.
From the inscription on it we learn
that it was made by Nectanebo I., of
the XXXth Dynasty, to serve as a
naos to the old temple subsequently
destroyed, and replaced by the actual
one. In this species of cage was
kept the hawk, the emblem of the god
Hor-Hat, who was the principal
divinity of the temple. Round this
are three small rooms. The inscriptions
on them and the two preceding
chambers, show that, as at Denderah,
they were used for the storing of religious
utensils, offerings, &c. (see
p. 442). Round the whole of the
temple, extending from the First
Hall, runs a magnificent wall, covered
with inscriptions.
The Sculptures with which every
part of this temple is covered are,
many of them, extremely interesting.
Some of them contain valuable information
respecting the ancient geography
of Egypt. Others give the
names of the several chambers of the
temple, and their dimensions in cubits
and parts of cubits, so that the ancient
Egyptian measurements can be
compared with the modern ones.
Close to the large temple is a small
one erected by Ptolemy Physcon and
Lathyrus, but it is much damaged and
defaced.
Shooting. — During the winter
months numerous geese, teal, and
other wild-fowl frequent a sort of
marsh or lake to the westward of
Edfoo; and the sandbanks in the
river are covered with aquatic birds.
Unless the traveller has a boat, the
only way of getting at the geese is
to go out before daybreak, and crouch
under the lee of the large embankment
running inland. As soon as
day dawns, the geese will begin
flying inland to feed, from the sandbanks
where they have slept, and a
good many shots may be had at them
as they come flying low over the embankment.
In the hill behind Edfoo is an old
Coptic Dayr.
(E.) A short distance above Edfoo
is Redeseeyeh, a village at which resides
one of the principal sheykhs of
the Ababdeh Arabs, with whom arrangements
may be made for visiting
the emerald mines on the road to
Berenice (see Rte. 12). At the second
of the old stations on the road, about
12 miles inland from Redeseeyeh, is a
Temple of Sethi I. dedicated to Amen.
Though small, its sculptures are of
a very good style; and in the hall is
a curious tablet of hieroglyphics bearing
the date of the ninth year of this
Pharaoh. It consists of a portico supported
by four columns, and a hall,
with four pillars in the centre, at the
end of which are three small chamber,
or rather niches, each containing
three statues. Many visitors have
written Creek inscriptions on its
walls, most of which are ex-votos to
Pan; but one is remarkable as being
of the soldiers quartered in the fortified
station, whose thirteen names are
inscribed on one of the columns of
the portico.
(E.) Halfway from Edfoo to Gebel
Silsileh is a ruined town on the E.
bank, called Booayb, once fortified
with a wall flanked by round towers,
not of very ancient date, and apparently
throughout of Arab construction.
It may have been the site of
Pithom or Toum, the ancient Thmuis;
though this should be halfway between
Edfoo and Ombos. Thmuis is
evidently the Tooum of Ptolemy, who
places it inland, 14' N. of Ombos,
and 25' S. of Eileithyias. Some
suppose Thmuis to be the same as
Silsilis. Halfway between this fortified
place and Tonáb is a grotto in
the rock.
(W.) Opposite Silweh, in a ravine
called Shut el-Rágel, Mr. Harris discovered
a tablet containing the names
of some kings of the XIth Dynasty.
He also found the names of Amenhotep
I. and the 1st and 2nd Thothmes;
with others of much older date,
but much defaced; and at El-Hosh an
inscription beginning with the year
17 of Amenemhat II. There are said
to be other stelæ in the neighbourhood,
with the names of some old
kings.
(W.) About 5 m. above Booayb the
hills come down to the bank and form
a sort of bluff. They are called Gebel
Aboo Ghabah.
Sharp gusts of wind
often render the navigation under
them rather dangerous.
At Heshan are a stone quay and
some quarries.
(E. and W.) Gebel or Hagar Silsileh
(Silsilis), 26 m., the “stone” or
“mountain of the chain,” is so called,
according to an Arab tradition, from
the navigation of the river at this
spot having been stopped by a chain,
which the jealousy of a king of the
country ordered to be fastened across
it. The narrowness of the river, and
the appearance of a rock resembling a
pillar, to which the chain was thought
to have been attached, and the ancient
name Silsilis, so similar to the Arabic
Silsilieh, doubtless gave rise to the

tradition; and the Greek Silsilis was
itself a corruption of the old Egyptian
name, preserved in the Coptic
Golgl.
The breadth of the Nile here is
only 1095 ft. at the narrowest part.
Silsileh is remarkable for the immense
Quarries of sandstone from
which the blocks used in the greater
part of the Egyptian temples were
taken. They extend on both sides of
the river, those on the E. bank being
the most remarkable for their extent
and those on the W. for the curious
grottos and inscriptions. The dababeeyeh
is usually moored to the W.
bank, but it is easy to row over to the
other side in the sandal, and no one
should omit to do so.
East bank. The most curious entrance
to the vast quarries on this
bank is by a long passage cut in the
rock, nearly opposite the Tablet of
Meneptah mentioned below. It is not
by the size and extent of the monuments
of Upper Egypt alone that we
are enabled to judge of the stupendous
works executed by the ancient
Egyptians: these quarries would
suffice to prove the character they
bore, were the gigantic ruins of
Thebes and other cities no longer in
existence; and safely may we apply
the expression used by Pliny, in
speaking of the porphyry quarries,
to those of Silsilis: “quantislibet
molibus cædendis sufficiunt lapidicinæ.”
At the N. end of the quarries close
to the river stood the ancient town of
Silsilus, of which nothing remains but
the substructions of a stone building,
probably a temple.
West Bank. The quarries on this
side, less extensive than on the other,
are remarkable for the way in which
the excavations have been turned into
sepulchral grottos and chapels.
The first Grotto to the N. consists
of a long corridor, supported by four
pillars, cut in the face of the rock, on
which, as well as on the interior wall,
are sculptured several tablets of hieroglyphics,
bearing the names of different
kings. It was commenced by
Horus, the last Pharaoh of the
XVIIIth Dynasty, who has here
commemorated his defeat of the Kush
or Ethiopians. He is represented
in a car, pursuing with bended bow
the flying enemy, who, being completely
routed, sue for peace. He
is then borne in a splendid shrine by
the Egyptian chiefs, preceded by his
troops, and by captives of the conquered
nation; a trumpeter having
given the signal for the procession to
march. Other soldiers are employed
in bringing the prisoners they have
captured; and in another part the
monarch is seen receiving the emblem
of life from the god Amen-ra.
One of the most perfect specimens
of Egyptian sculpture during its best
period is seen in the tableau representing
Horus as an infant suckled by
a goddess. Unfortunately the paintings
in this grotto are much injured
by the smoke of torches, and by the
fires often lighted by the sailors.
There are other tablets of the time
of Rameses II., of his son Meneptah,
and other kings of the XIXth Dynasty.
In an historical point of view
they are exceedingly interesting; particularly
from the mention of assemblies
held in the 30th, 34th, 37th,
and 44th years of Rameses If., from
the presence of the name of Isinofri,
the queen of Meneptah, being the
same as that of his mother the second
wife of Rameses; and from their
relating to other sons of that conqueror.
These tablets, like similar ones at
Assooán, show that the stones used
in different Egyptian buildings were
taken from the quarries in their vicinity;
but it must be observed that
various other parts of the same sandstone
strata afforded their share of
materials; as may be seen from the
numerous quarries about El-Hellál,
and on the way to Silsilis, though but
trifling when compared with the extensive
ones of this mountain.
The earliest Egyptian edifices were
principally erected of limestone, which
continued in use occasionally, even in
Upper Egypt, till the commencement
of the XVIIIth Dynasty, though the
Pharaohs of the XIIth had already

introduced the sandstone of Silsilis to
build the walls and colonnades of some
of the larger temples: and its fitness
for masonry, its durability, and the
eveness of its grain became so thoroughly
appreciated by their architects,
during the XVIIIth and succeeding
Dynasties, that it was from
that time almost exclusively used in
building the monuments of the Thebaïd.
But as the texture was less
suited for the reception of colour than
the smoother limestone, they prepared
its surface with a coat of calcareous
composition which, while it prevented
the stone from imbibing an unnecessary
quantity of colour, afforded greater
facility for the execution of the outlines.
The subjects, when sculptured,
either in relief or intaglio, were again
coated with the same substance, to
receive the final colouring; and the
details of the figures and of the other
objects could thereby be finished with
a precision and delicacy in vain to be
expected on the rough and absorbent
surface of the sandstone.
Their paints were mixed with water,
and in some cases they can be washed
off by a wet cloth, as in Belzoni's tomb
at Thebes; but in other tombs they
are often fixed, and sometimes have a
varnish over the surface. There is,
however, no evidence of any colour
being mixed with oil, as some have
imagined. The reds and yellows were
ochre, but the greens and blues were
extracted from copper, and though of
a most beautiful hue, the quality was
much coarser than either of the former,
or their ivory black. The white is a
very pure chalk, reduced to an impalpable
powder; and the brown, orange,
and other compound colours, were
simply formed by the combination of
some of the above. Owing to their
being mixed with water, they necessarily
required some protection, even
in the dry climate of Egypt, against
the contact of rain; and so attentive
were the builders to this point, that
the interstices of the blocks which
form the roofs of the temples, independent
of their being well fitted
together and cemented with a tenacious
and compact mortar, were covered
by an additional piece of stone, let into
a groove of about 8 in. in breadth, extending
equally on either side of the
line of their junction.
However the partial showers and
occasional storms in Upper Egypt
might affect the state of their painted
walls, it was not sufficient to injure
the stone itself, which still remains
in its original state, even after so long
a period, except where the damp,
arising from earth impregnated with
nitre, has penetrated through its granular
texture, as is here and there
observable near the ground at Medeenet
Háboo, and in other ruins of
the Thebaïd. But exposure to the
external atmosphere, which here generally
affects calcareous substances,
was found not to be injurious to the
sandstone of Silsilis; and, like its
neighbour the granite, it was only
inferior to limestone in one respect,
that the latter might remain buried
for ages without being corroded by
the salts of the earth; a fact with
which the Egyptians, from having
used it in the substructions of obelisks
and other granitic monuments, were
evidently well acquainted.
Beyond the grotto above mentioned
are others of smaller dimensions, which
have served for sepulchres, and bear
the names of the first monarchs of the
XVIIIth Dynasty: among which are
those of the first and third Thothmes,
and of Queen Amennoohet. The few
sculptures found in them relate to
offerings to the deceased, and some of
the usual subjects of tombs; and on
a rock in the vicinity is the name of
Meri-ra, the prenomen of Pepi, of the
VIth Dynasty.
To the S. of these again are other
tablets and open chapels, of very elegant
form. They are ornamented with
columns, having capitals resembling
the bud of the water-plant, surmounted
by an elegant Egyptian cornice, and
in general style and design they very
much resemble one another. The first
is of the reign of Meneptah, the son
and successor of Rameses II. The
second in that of Rameses himself,
and the third in that of his father
Sethi I. The subjects of the two last

are very similar, and their tablets date
in the first year of either monarch.
In the Chapel of Rameses, the king
makes offerings to Amen-ra, Maut,
and Khonso, the Theban triad; and
to Ra, Ptah, and Hapimôo (the god
Nilus); and other contemplar deities
such as Savak, Mentu, Osiris, Moui,
Justice, Tafne, Seb. Atmoo or Atum,
Khem, Athor, Thoth, Anouké, and a
few others, whose name and character
are less certain. The headdress of
the last mentioned goddess resembles
that of one of the Mexican deities,
projecting and curving over at the top
like an inverted bell. It is supposed
to represent a mass of hemp; which
was probably an emblem of the Egyptian
Vesta. In the principal picture
Rameses presents an offering of incense
to the Theban triad, and two
vases of wine to Ra, Ptab, and the
god Nile, who is here treated as the
other divinities of Egypt. Indeed it
is remarkable that he is only represented
in this manner at Silsilis. He
usually bears lotus-plants and waterjars,
or the various productions of
Egypt, among the ornamented devices
at the bases of the walls in certain
parts of the temples, or on the thrones
of statues; and he frequently carries
the emblems of the different nomes
and toparchies of Egypt. Isinofri, the
queen of Rameses II., also holds forth
two sistra before a curious triad of
deities; and at the base of the side
walls the god Nilus is again introduced,
carrying water-plants and
various offerings, the produce of the
irrigated land of Egypt.
Some small tablets occur at the side
of these chapels; one of them of the
time of Amenhotep I., others of Meneptah;
and a larger one of Rameses
III. offering to Ra and Nilus.
There is also a tablet of Sheshonk
(Shishak), who is introduced by the
goddess Maut to Amen, Ra, and Ptah,
followed by his second son, the high
priest of Amen, who was also a military
chief.
Savak, the deity of Ombos, with the
head of a crocodile, is the presiding
god of Silsilis, and his titles of Lord of
Ombos, and Lord of Silsilis, are frequently
found alternating in the stelæ
of these quarries.
The blocks cut from the quarries
were conveyed on rafts, or boats, to
their place of destination, for the
erection of the temples. But the
large masses of granite, for obelisks
and colossi, if we may believe Herodotus,
were not sent by water from
Syene; these seem to have been taken
by land; in mentioning one of the
largest blocks ever cut by the Egyptians,
he says it was conveyed from
Elephantine (or rather Syene) by
land, during the reign of Amasis, to
the vicinity of Saïs, and that it employed
2000 men for three years.
The particular honour paid to the
god Nilus at Silsilis was perhaps connected
with the transmission of the
blocks by water, which were there
committed to the charge of the river
god; but it may have originated in
the peculiar character of the river
itself in that part before the rocks of
Silsilis gave way, and transferred the
first cataract from Silsilis to Syene.
This was probably at some time during
the reigns of the kings of the XIIth
Dynasty. Then indeed the great
difference of elevation above and
below Silsilis made a far more marked
distinction between the Egyptian part
of the river and that to the S. than at
the present day between the Nile
below Assooán and in Nubia; and
though this fact was unknown to
Champollion, he with his usual sagacity
gave a very similar reason, that
the river at Silsilis “seems to make a
second entrance into Egypt after
having burst through the mountains
that here oppose its passage, as it
forced its way through the granite
rocks at the cataract.” In reality the
analogy was stronger, as here was
originally its great cataract, and its
first entrance into Egypt; and there
is reason to believe that the most
southerly nome of Egypt was originally
that of Apollinopolis. If any
early records of the rise of the Nile
could be found at Silsilis, they might
point out the exact period when the
rocks gave way; and it would be
interesting to find any evidences of

the former level of the river immediately
above Silsilis.
A French company has proposed to
partially restore the old condition of
things by throwing a dam across the
river at its narrowest point, and thus
to hold up the waters of the Nile. To
the E. of Gebel Silsileh is a large
extent of country which would then
be below the level of the river, and
thus a vast reservoir would be formed
from which water could be let down
as required for irrigation. The promoters
of the project consider that by
this means nearly 1,000,000 acres of
land, now desert, would be added to
the cultivable area of Egypt, and at
the same time the risks of a low
Nile would be guarded against. The
cost of the scheme is estimated at
4,000,0001.
Between Silsilis and Kom Ombo are
a succession of sandbanks on which
crocodiles may frequently be seen.
The valley of the Nile now assumes
quite a different aspect; indeed the
change may be said to begin after
leaving Edfoo. The two mountain
chains which border the river draw
closer together, and the cultivated
land is reduced in many parts to a
mere strip: indeed, here and there
the desert comes down to the water's
edge.
At Fárés, to the S. of Silsilis, are
said to be the vestiges of a small
temple, with the name of Antoninus;
and at this place some coffins of burnt
clay have been found similar to a few
met with at Thebes, made in the form
of the body, in two parts, laced together
with thongs or string. Farther
on to the S., a little before the river
turns eastward towards Ombos, on
the W. bank and nearly opposite
Manéeha, is a mass of alluvial deposit;
and about 1 m. below Ombos is a bed
of Egyptian pebbles, with a few
fossils, and a curious sandstone concretion.
(E.) Kom Ombo , 15 m., marks the
site of the ancient Ombos , in Coptic
Mbô. The ancient town and the more
modern village which succeeded it,
have both been buried beneath the
sand. All that remains are some
ruins of Two Temples that stood partly
on raised ground, and partly on an
artificial platform high above the
river. They are not probably destined
to remain there very long, as, slowly
but surely, the river is undermining
the bank, and will carry them away.
The Great Temple, founded in the
reign of Ptolemy Philometer, continued
by his brother Physcon (who
is introduced as usual with his
queens, the two Cleopatras), and
finished by Auletes, or Neus Dionysus,
has the peculiarity of possessing
two entrances, and two parallel
sanctuaries. It is, in fact, a double
temple, dedicated to the two hostile
principles, of Light adored under the
form of Horus, and Darkness under
that of the crocodile-headed god Savak.
The appearance of the two winged
globes over the entrance rather adds
to the general effect. On the under
surface of some of the architraves of
the portico the figures have been left
unfinished, and present a satisfactory
specimen of the Egyptian mode of
drawing them in squares, when the
artists began their pictures. A similar
arrangement is met with in some of
the tombs at Thebes, of the time of
the XVIIIth and XIXth Dynasties;
from which it appears that the proportions
of the human figure differed
at various periods. In these last the
lower leg, from the plant of the foot
to the centre of the knee, occupied
six squares in height, and the whole
figure to the top of the head 19
squares. At Ombos and in other
Ptolemaïc buildings the proportions
are somewhat different, and the figure
(as in the earliest, or Pyramid, period)
is less elongated than in the XVIIIth
and XIXth Dynasties. The difference
in the character of the human figure
during the early Pyramid age is rather
in its breadth compared to its height;
and it is remarkable that statues were
then less conventional, and bore a
closer resemblance to nature, than in
later times.
The Little Temple stands on an
artificial platform towering above the

river. It appears to have been dedicated
to the crocodile-headed god
Savak, by Ptolemy Physcon; but the
sculptures rather require it to have
been, as M. Champollion supposes, an
edifice “typifying the birthplace of
the young god of the local triad.”
The grand gateway at the eastern
extremity, for it stood at right angles
with the other temple, bears the name
of Auletes, by whom it was completed.
It is, however, now in so ruinous a
state, that little can be traced of its
original plan; but the pavement is
seen in many places, laid upon stone
substructions, which extend considerably
below it; and some of the walls
of the chambers composing the interior
of the naos are partially preserved.
From the fragments of columns, whose
capitals resembled those of the portico
of Denderah, we are also enabled to
ascertain the site of a grand hall which
formed part of the building.
The sacred precincts of the temples
were surrounded by a strong Crudebrick
Enclosure
, much of which still
remains; but from its crumbling
materials, and the quantity of sand
that has accumulated about it, the
buildings now appear to stand in a
hollow: though, on examination, the
level of the area is found not to
extend below the base of the wall.
On the eastern face of this enclosure is
a stone Gateway, dedicated to Savak,
the Lord of Ombos, which bears the
name of the 3rd Thothmes, and of
Amennoohet. This satisfactorily
proves that, though the ruins only
date after the accession of the Ptolemies,
or from about the year B.C. 173
to 60, there had previously existed a
temple at Ombos, of an earlier epoch.
Other remains of the same period are
on the river-bank under the N. portico.
At the S. end are interesting remains
of a circular stair. Among the fallen
stones some have fine carvings. One
represents a fowling scene on the
Nile.
The upper part of this gateway has
been added by a late Ptolemy, or by
one of the Cæsars. From the site of
it, belonging as it did to the original
temple, we derive one of several proofs
that the lowering of the Nile above
Silsilis had taken place before the
reign of Thothme; Ombos being built
on the old alluvial deposit, which was
then annually covered by the inundation;
while the river, since that
time, has never reached the summit
of its banks.
The mounds of the town and remains
of houses extend considerably
to the E. of this enclosure; and, to
judge from their appearance, Ombos
must have suffered by fire, like many
other cities of Upper Egypt.
Opposite Kom Ombo is a large
island called Mansooreeyeh. Sandgrouse
and quail are often to be found
in large numbers there.
(E.) Darawee is the headquarters
of the Melekab division of the
Ababdeh Arabs. From this point
one of the main roads leads into the
Sudan, but it is now unsafe for travellers.
Soon after passing Edfoo the valley
of the Nile is confined within very
narrow limits, and, though slightly
enlarged in the vicinity of Ombos, the
mountains again approach the Nile a
little farther to the S. The general
features of the country begin to resemble
Nubia, and this peculiarity of
character is increased by the appearance
of the water-wheels which occur
at short intervals, instead of the pole
and bucket. And, being generally
protected from the sun by mats, they
remind the traveller that he has
already reached a warmer climate.
On several of the heights are small
towers, particularly on the W. bank;
and here and there are quarries of
sandstone, once worked by the ancient
Egyptians. The junction of the sandstone
and granite is observed about
two thirds of the way from Ombos to
Assooán, in the vicinity of El-Khat-tára;
from which point the former
continues at intervals to present itself
over the syenite, and other primitive
beds, as at Assooán and in Nubia.
The W. bank of the river has but a
very narrow strip of cultivation, but
the E. bank presents, in one or two
spots, a wider expanse of land covered

with palm-groves. The whole district
is called Akaba.
The approach to Assooán is very
picturesque. Keeping to the channel
E. of the island of Elephantine, the
boat runs up between islets of polished
black rock, and passing the town,
moors to a sloping bank of sand just
above it. At very low Nile the effect
is marred by the large sand-banks at
the mouth of the E. channel; and so
rapidly are these increasing, that they
threaten to block the way altogether
before long. Even now, large boats
are obliged, when the river is low, to
go by the channel W. of Elephantine,
and come round by the top of the
island.
“For two or three miles below the
town the banks are unusually fertile;
but Assooán itself is set in a frame of
more than ordinary barrenness and
desolation. Immediately before it lies
the island of Elephantine, a mosaic of
vivid green, golden sand, and black
syenite; but on the 1. bank opposite
rises a high hill or mountain of sand,
and on the rt. the town is shut in by
confused heaps or small hills of
syenite and granite, tossed about in
all directions, as if marking some
fearful convulsion of primeval nature.
The toe of the island comes below the
town… When almost level with its
foot, the boat is steered to the left,
and enters the deep but comparatively
narrow channel on which Assooán
stands. But even this is so cabined,
cribbed, and confined by rocks, that
the view does not extend 200 yards
upwards from the mooring-ground of
dahabeahs, and as his boat is made
fast, it requires neither guide-book nor
dragoman to announce that the
cataract of the Nile is reached.”-F.
Eden.
(E.) Assooán or Aswan , 26½ miles.
The frontier town of Egypt proper,
containing a population of 9000 inhabitants.
There is a British Consular
Agent, Mustapha Shakir. It is
situated in lat. 24° 5' 25”, on the rt.
bank of the Nile, at the N. end of the
1st Cataract, and is distant about 580
miles from Cairo, and 730 from the
Mediterranean. It occupies the site
of the ancient Syene , in Coptic Souan,
which signifies “the opening.” The
Arabs, as usual, have added an initial
alef, and made the name Assooán.
The town is well built, and some of
the houses have a picturesque aspect
not often seen in Upper Egypt. Prior
to 1884, it was a very busy town,
being the principal market for merchandise
to and from the Sudan. The
annual value of the commerce passing
to and fro was about 2,000,0001. But
since the rebellion, and te subsequent
abandonment of the Sudan, the traffic
has almost ceased, and it will be a long
time before affairs are restored to the
former state. Assooán has a very
varied population. Nubians, Egyptians,
Negroes, Bedaween, Greeks,
Turks, and Copts are all to be seen
here. In 1884-5, it was a bustling
place, as there was a large English
garrison, and all the troops for the
Nile expedition passed by it. Now
the British soldiers have all left, and
there is an Egyptian garrison under
English officers. The town is surrounded
with small forts, constructed
during the last three years. There is
a railway from Assooán to Philæ
above the cataract. This line proved
of the greatest service during the expedition
of 1884.
History.—Assooán contains but few
mementoes of its former history. Of
the time when it supplied Egypt with
the material for so many magnificent
monuments, and its granite quarries
must have swarmed with an army of
workmen, no trace is left, except the
names of one or two kings of the
XIIth Dynasty on the rocks in the
neighbourhood. The prophet Ezekiel
mentions it as the southern frontier of
Egypt. “From Migdol to Syene,”
Ezekiel xxix. 10. Recently General
Sir F. Grenfell has excavated some
tombs of the VIth and XIIth Dynasties,
which contain some interesting inscriptions.
In the time of the Ptolemies,
Syene became famous from
being considered by the astronomers
of Alexandria as lying immediately
under the tropic; a belief which arose
from the circumstance that during the

summer solstice the rays of the sun
fell vertically to the bottom of a well
in the town. It was on the knowledge
that the sun cast no shadow at
Assooán, combined with the measurement
of the sun's shadow at Alexandria
on the longest day, and the
distance between the two places, that
Eratosthenes based his calculations
for the measurement of the earth.
Later discoveries soon proved the
tropic of Cancer to be S. of Syene;
and it is curious that Strabo, Seneca,
Lucan, Pliny and others, should have
thought Syene to be in the tropics,
though it is very possible they may
have seen the sun shining at the
bottom of a well. Search has been
made for this well, but without success.
A small Ptolemaïc temple has lately
been discovered, and has been partially
excavated. Under the Romans,
Syene was an important frontier town.
Juvenal was banished there by Domitian
and revenged himself for being
obliged to exchange the society of
Rome for the command of a cohort at
the extremity of Egypt by satirising
with equal impartiality the Roman
soldiers and the Egyptians.
In the first ages of Christianity,
Syene was the seat of a bishopric, and
on the western bank there are the
ruins of a Coptic convent of the sixth
or seventh century. This convent
must have been quite a fortress when
complete. There are some remains of
the wall paintings in the church.
Arab writers describe Assooán as a
flourishing town, and the story, if it
be true, that, in consequence of a pest
which destroyed more than 20,000 of
the inhabitants, a part of the old town
was abandoned for the neighbouring
hills, on which the Saracens had settled,
shows it to have been a place of
great size. But in the latter half of
the XIIth centy., it suffered so severely
from the depredations of the Nubians
on the S., and the Bedaween on the
N., that it was almost completely reduced
to ruins; and though it rose
again a little when Sultan Selim
placed a Turkish garrison in it, it
never became of more importance
than it is at present. Many of the
inhabitants of Assooán are descended
from these Turkish soldiers.
Old Remains.—The wall projecting
into the river, opposite the S. end
of the modern town, is possibly
of Roman construction, and has
apparently formed part of a bath.
In one of the arches, on the N. side, is
a Greek inscription relating to the
rise of the Nile, brought from some
other building. There is also a stone
built into the wall to the S. of this,
which belonged to a nilometer, being
part of a scale with 11 lines, or 10
divisions, which measure 1 ft. 3 in.
They are double digits; and as the
cubit consisted of 28 digits, this fragment
wants four divisions, or eight
digits, of a whole cubit. At the upper
end (but the lower, as it stands upside
down in the wall) is , the number
of the cubit. This differs from the
cubit of the nilometer at Elephantine,
which measures 1 ft. 8.625 in., while
this is 1 ft. 9 in.; but the divisions
are very irregular.
The Saracenic wall, whose foundation
dates at the epoch of the Arab
invasion by Amer, the lieutenant of
the Khalif Omar, still remains on the
S. side of the old town, beyond which
are the numerous tombs, mostly cenotaphs,
of the different sheykhs and
saints of Egypt. On the tombstones
which stand towards the southern extremity
of this Cemetery are Kufic inscriptions.
The epitaphs are of the
earlier inhabitants of Assooán, and
bear different dates, from about the
commencement of the 3rd to that
of the 15th century of the Hégira.
They begin—”In the name of God,
the element and merciful,” and
mention the name and parentage of
the deceased, who is said to have
died in the true faith; saying, “I
bear witness that there is no deity
but God alone; he has no partner;
and that Mohammed is the servant
and apostle of God.” Some end with
the date, but in others, particularly
those of the earliest epochs, it occurs
about the centre of the inscription.
This is supposed to be the place of
martyrs mentioned by Aboolfeda.
Here, as at Fostat (Old Cairo ), is a

mosque of Amer. It only presents
round arches, in imitation of the
ordinary Byzantine-Greek, or the
Roman, style of building, in vogue at
the period of the Arab invasion; but
it is not altogether improbable that
an attentive examination of the
ancient Saracenic remains around this
cemetery might lead to the discovery
of some early specimens of the pointed
arch.
The mosque called Gámah Belád
has pointed arches, but it appears
not to be older than 1077 A.D.;
those buildings with the date 400 A.H.
or 1010 A.D. have round arches, but
one of 420 A.H. or 1030 A.D. has both
pointed and round. The corbelling
of the domes is very simple.
A short distance from the cemetery
of Assooá is a small bank of that
alluvial deposit so frequently seen on
the road to Philæ. In some places
small blocks of granite are lying upon
its upper surface.
The site of the town of Assooán,
connected as it is with one end of the
cluster of rocks through which the
road leads to Philæ, and in which the
principal granite quarries are situated
(bounded on the W. and S. by the
Cataracts and the channel of Philæ,
on the E. by an open plain separating
it from the range of mountains on that
side), may have given rise to the following
passage of Pliny, which at
first sight appears so singular:
Syene, ita vocatur peninsula;” since
we find that ancient authors frequently
used peninsula and insula in
the same sense as our word isolated;
and they even applied the term insula
to a detached house. But the original
site of Syene may really have been on
an island, when the Nile during the
inundation ran to the E. of it, if not
also at other times. M. Lepsius
found some inscriptions in the valley
from which it would appear that in
the reign of Amenemhat III., and his
two successors, the Nile rose higher
here than at the present day, in one
case as much as 26 ft. This must
have been before the rocky barrier of
Silsileh gave way, and points to a
time when Nubia was immensely
more extensive and populous than it
is now.
Granite Quarries.—These are the
most interesting objects in the neighbourhood
of Assooán. In one, that
lies towards the S.E. of the Arab
cemetery, is an Obelisk, which, having
never been entirely detached from the
rock, remains in situ in the quarry
The fissure, which gives it the appearance
of being broken, was made in it
at a later period. It would have been
more than 95 ft. in height, and 11 ft.
1 1/2 in. in breadth in the largest part;
but this last was to have been reduced
when finished. An inclined road
leads to the summit of the hill to the
S.E., and on the descent at the other
side was a fallen pillar (now taken
away), with a Latin inscription,
stating that “new; quarries had been
discovered in the vicinity of Philæ;
that many large pilasters and columns
had been hewn from them during the
reigns of Severus and Antoninus
(Caracalla), and his mother Julia
Domna;” and that “this hill was
under the tutelary protection of
Jupiter-Hammon-Cenubis (or Kneph)
and Juno” (or Saté), the deities of
Elephantine. In its original site, on
the very hill it mentions, it was an
interesting inscription; removed to an
European museum, how much of that
interest is lost! but often does the
love of acquisition disregard the
satisfaction that others might feel in
visiting a local monument.
Between this and the river is a
large sarcophagus, which, having been
broken, was left in the quarry, and
various other remains, such as
columns, chiefly unfinished.
Besides these, several of the rocks
about Assooán bear the evident appearance
of having been quarried;
and the marks of wedges, and the
numerous tablets about this town,
Elephantine, Philæ, and Biggeh, announce
the removal of the blocks, and
the reign of the Pharaoh by whose
orders they were hewn. Many of them
are of a date previous to and after the
accession of the XVIIIth Dynasty,
while others bear the names of later
monarchs of the XXVIth, immediately

before the invasion of Cambyses; but
some merely record the victories of
kings over the enemies of Egypt, or
the ex-votos of pious visitors.
It is curious to observe in these
quarries the method adopted for cutting
off the blocks. In some instances
they appear to have used wooden
wedges, as in India, which, being
firmly driven into holes cut to receive
them, along the whole line of the
stone, and saturated with water, broke
it off by their equal pressure. Indeed,
a trench seems to have been cut for
this purpose, and the fact of the
wedge-holes being frequently seen,
where the stone is still unbroken,
strongly confirms this conjecture.
Beyond the granite quarries is a
wide valley, containing some most
interesting inscriptions, dating from
the XIth Dynasty to the times of the
Romans. Among these is a figure of
Sethi I. Most of the inscriptions
appear to be in the form of thanksgivings
for a safe passage of the
Cataract.
The rocks about Syene are not, as
might be expected, exclusively syenite,
but, on the contrary, consist mostly
of granite, with some syenite and a
little porphyry. The difference between
the two former is this, that
syenite is composed of felspar, quartz,
and hornblende, instead of mica, or
solely of felspar and quartz; and
granite of felspar, quartz, and mica.
According to some the ingredients
of syenite are quartz, felspar, mica,
and hornblende; but the syenite of
antiquity, used for statues, was really
granite. Indeed, many of the rocks
of Syene contain all the four component
parts; and, from their differing
considerably in their proportions,
afford a variety of specimens for the
collection of a mineralogist.
The Environs of the town are sandy
and barren, producing little else than
palms; grain, and almost every kind
of provision, being brought, as in
Aboolfeda's time, from other parts of
the country. But the dates still retain
the reputation they enjoyed in
the days of Strabo; and the palm of
Ibreem is cultivated and thrives in the
climate of the 1st Cataract. Dates
are among the principal exports of
Assooán, and senna, charcoal, henneh,
wicker baskets, and formerly slaves
from the interior, from Abyssinia,
and Upper Ethiopia, were sent from
thence to different parts of Lower
Egypt.
The Island of Elephantine is immediately
opposite Assooán. It is called
in Arabic Gezeeret Assooán, and in
Nubian Sooan-Artiga, which both
mean “the Island of Assooán.” It
has also the name of Gezeeret-ez-Zaher,
or “the Island of Flowers,” from the
vegetation with which its northern
end is covered. By ancient authors it
is always called Elephantine, or Elephantes.
The ruins of the old town
form a large mound, at the foot of
which is a modern village; and there
is another small village to the N.
The inhabitants are all Nubians, and
the traveller has here his first opportunity
of observing their peculiarities
in dress and appearance.
At the beginning of the present
century there were the remains of
two temples in Elephantine, one a
very interesting one, built by Amenhotep
III. They were destroyed in
1822 by the then governor of Assooán,
in order to obtain stone for building a
palace. The greater part of the
Nilometer which stood at the upper
end of the island shared the same
fate. The only remains now left are
a granite gateway bearing the name
of Alexander III., near which is a
badly cut statue with the cartouche of
Meneptah, the son of Rameses II.;
and a quay of Roman date, in the
construction of which have been used
many blocks taken from more ancient
monuments.
A broad staircase leads to a point
about 100 ft. above the river, and ends
in a platform which leads to the
tombs discovered by General Grenfell.
These, as already stated, belong to
the VIth and XIIth Dynasties. The
most important of the former belongs
to an officer of king Pepi II., whose
name was Sabbena, and who appears
to have been the governor of the

district. This opens into a tomb of
another governor whose name was
Mechu. There is a representation of
him and his family, with scenes from
his life. Some of these are in good
preservation. Not far from this is
the tomb of Nubkan-ra-necht, a
governor of the XIIth Dynasty. Other
interesting tombs are in the vicinity,
which have been excavated by the
exertions of Major Plunkett, R.E.,
and other English officers. The tomb
of Serenput, an official of king Osirtasen
I. of the XIIth Dynasty, should
be visited. He appears to have been
one of the generals of Osirtasen's
army, which made the expedition to
the Sudan and brought rich spoils
back to Egypt.
Elephantine had a garrison in the
time of the Romans, as well as in the
earlier times of the Persians and
Pharaonic monarchs; and it was from
this island that the Ionian a and Carians,
who had accompanied Psammeticus,
were sent forward into
Ethiopia, to endeavour to bring back
the Egyptian troops who had deserted.
The south part of the island is
covered with the ruins of old houses
and fragments of pottery, on many of
which are Greek inscriptions in the
running hand. Some of these have
been translated by Dr. S.Birch, and
are found to be receipts for taxes.
They commence in the reign of Vespasian,
A.D. 77, and are found a century
later under Varus. The peasants
who live there frequently find small
rams of bronze, coins, and other
objects of antiquity, in removing the
nitre of the mounds which they use
for agricultural purposes.
On the W. bank of the river opposite
Elephantine are a few remains
which mark the site of Contra Syene;
and about 1/4 mile inland up the valley
are the remains of an old building
often frequented by jackals and other
beasts of prey.
The First Cataract.—All the Cataracts—called
by the Arabs esh-Shellál
—that obstruct the course of the
Nile are really little more than a
succession of rapids, whirlpools, and
eddies caused by rocks and islets.
Those at Assooán are commonly
known by the title of the “First
Cataract,” from their being the first
reached on the way up the Nile.
During the high Nile, all but the
highest rocks are covered with water,
and then it is possible for boasts to sail
up against what is little more than a
very powerful stream; but as the
river lowers, it becomes divided into
numerous narrow channels, and the
rapids and falls are produced which
have obtained for it the formidable
appellation of a cataract, and make
the employment of towing-ropes and
many hands necessary for getting a
boat up.
It would be difficult to account for
the exaggerated report given from
hearsay by Cicero, Seneca, and others,
of the astounding noise made by this
cataract, which was so great that
people were stunned and deprived of
their sense of hearing, were it not
that, so recently as the last century,
a traveller, Paul Lucas, speaks of the
cataract,precipitating itself from the
rocks with so much noise as to deafen
the inhabitants for several leagues
round. “Travellers' tales” are common
to all periods of history. Perhaps
the best known one in connection
with this cataract is that of Herodotus,
in which he recounts the story
of the sources of the Nile told him
by the treasurer of Minerva at Saïs:
—how, between Syene and Elephantine,
there were two conical hills,
called Crophi and Mophi, between
which lay unfathomable fountains,
whence flowed the Nile, southwards
to Ethiopia, and northwards to the
Mediterranean.
The scenery of the cataracts is weird
and desolate, but not without a certain
beauty and grandeur, and it is worth
while for those who do not intend to
make the ascent to row about the
northern end of it in the small, boats.
There are no rapids before reaching
the Island of Seháyl, which is interesting
from the number of hieroglyphic
tablets sculptured on the
rocks, many of which are of a very

early period, including the names of
kings of the XIIIth, XVIIIth, and
three following Dynasties. They record
the passage of kings and others
on their expeditions to the Soodán,
and are of great historical value. The
island was under the special protection
of Saté, Kneph, and Anouké.
The traveller whose intention is
merely to visit Philæ, without passing
the cataract, will save himself some
time and much trouble by going as
far as this island in his boat, by
which the ride to Philæ is considerably
shortened; nor will he be prevented
from seeing all that the
excursion from Assooán presents worthy
of notice,—which is confined to
traces of the old road, the crude-brick
wall that skirted and protected it,
and the singular forms of the granite
rocks, with inscriptions similar to
those at Seháyl, which have struck
every traveller since and previous to
the time of Strabo. Travellers by
Messrs. Cook's steamers will find all
the necessary arrangements made to
take them to Philæ.
The Ascent and Descent of the
Cataract in a Dahabeeyeh.
—These
are incidents in the Nile voyage more
exciting than pleasant. The preliminaries
that have to be gone through
at Assooán previous to making the
ascent are often tiresome and disagreeable.
The traveller has already
been told (see p. 388) that, if he intends
to go as far as the 2nd Cataract,
he must take care that the owner of
the boat he, or his dragoman, hires,
guarantees the possibility of its going
up the 1st Cataract, and undertakes
to pay a fine should it fail to do so.
Sometimes it may happen that the
Nile is so low that a boat, which
would go up in an ordinary year,
might run some risk of coming to
grief in the more than usually shallow
rapids; but often it is a trick of the
owner who, not wishing to expose his
boat to the perils of the cataract, has
privately instructed his reis to bribe
the sheykhs of the cataract to say
that the boat is too large to be taken
up. The traveller thus finds himself
stopped on his journey, or obliged to
take a dirty country boat from above
the cataract.
Those who have made a contract
with their dragoman, which is to
include the cost of going up the
cataract, should leave the matter
entirely to him, and refuse to have
anything to do with the discussion as
to the price to be paid, or the backsheesh.
Those who have to make
their own bargain must submit with
patience to the inevitable wrangling
and delay with which all such affairs
are conducted in Egypt. The contract
must be made with one of the
head sheykhs or reises of the cataracts,
of whom there are three or four. The
usual price asked is 3l. for every
100 ardebs' burden. As most dahabeeyehs
are from 200 to 300 ardebs,
the total amount will be from 6l. to
9l.; but at least half as much will be
asked for backsheesh; and from 10l.
to 15l. may be reckoned as the total
cost of going up the cataracts.
It is necessary for the Ascent. of the
Cataract that the wind should be fair,
but not too strong. As far as the
island of Seháyl it is tolerably easy
sailing against a strong stream. There
the first of the falls or “gates,” as
they are called (báb, pl. bibán), is
reached, and tow-ropes, punt-poles,
and scores of human beings are called
into requisition. It is a scene which
must be seen to be appreciated, and of
which no description can give the
least idea. Perhaps the best commentary
on it is that no one who has
gone through it once would willingly
do so again, though he might often
find amusement in watching the process
from a neighbouring rock. And
indeed this is a very good way of
seeing it even the first time, and for
ladies decidedly the most agreeable
for many reasons.
Great amusement in going up the
cataracts is derived by some travellers
from the amphibious proceedings of
the small boys who, seated on a round
log of wood, launch out into the
stream, and paddling with either hand,
traverse the river, or shoot down the
rapids, in an incredibly short space of
time. “These logs are the public

ferry-boats of the locality, and when a
pedestrian reaches the river-bank, and
wishes to cross over, he soon divests
himself of his garments, rolls them
into a bundle, which he ties above his
head, and thus launches out on a log,
'ripie ulterioris amore,' and strange
indeed is the top-heavy figure he presents.”—A.
C. Smith.
There are five or six falls, up which
the boat is dragged with more or less
ease, and then, getting rid of her
cataract crew, she sails on to the village
of Mahattah, just below Philæ.
It is at this village that the boat
stops again on her way down, to take
up the crew necessary for making the
Descent of the Cataract. This is a far
shorter process than the ascent, 1 1/2
hour being the time from Mahattah to
Assooán. The way is a different one to
that followed in coming up. Passing
on the right the last gate then ascended,
the boat glides swiftly on, rowed by
the cataract people, two to each oar.
Soon the river narrows, and is lost sight
of between two high walls of rock. In
an instant the boat has shot in between
them, the oars almost touching them
on either side, and, with a series of
plunges and bounds, that make you
feel as if it were a skiff and not a
dahabeeyeh that was under you, the
unwieldy ship goes rushing on, as
though it meant to drive its bows hard
on to the rocks that seem to bar the
lower end of the fall. Just, however,
as the crash seems inevitable, an
opening appears on the right; and by
the help of the current, and the right
turn of the rudder at the right
moment, the boat goes sharp round,
and out into smooth water. The
height of this fall varies with the
quantity of water in the river, but it
is usually from 6 to 7 feet. The length
of its passage between the rocks is
about 200 feet, and the breadth across
about 70 feet. Beyond it the river
flows swiftly on close to the desert on
the left bank, and there is only one
slight rapid more before reaching
Assooán.
With regard to the danger attending
the ascent and descent of the cataracts,
it cannot be said that there is none;
but at the same time, considering the
number of boats that go up and down,
and the comparatively few accidents
that happen, the chances are much
against mishap. And even if the
dahabeeyeh is wrecked, there is little
fear of being drowned, as it is always
possible to get on to the rocks. There
is no doubt that it is nervous work
going down the big gate, and the turn
at the bottom is a place where a boat
may easily get a hole knocked into it,
if nothing worse. Coming up, it is a
question of enough men and the rope
not breaking; and even if anything
does happen, it is wonderful how the
helmsman manages so that the boat
is brought up short in her downward
course by a cross stream or a backwater.
Those who want to see their
boat go down the big fall without
being on board her, should be rowed
in the sandal to a point just above it.
They can then, from the top of the
rock to the left of the passage, see the
whole thing capitally. If there are
things of value on board, such as instruments,
collections of skins, &c., the
most prudent course is to send them
between Mahattah and Assooán overland.
Those who are detained in the
cataract may find some coots and teal
to shoot; and patient search will occasionally
be rewarded with the sight
of a crocodile, a warren or water-lizard,
and a species of leathery turtle
(Trionyx Niloticus).
(E.) Mahattah. A small village,
of which mention has already been
made, situated just above the cataracts.
Like Assooán, it is the place for the
embarking and disembarking of the
cargoes that are transhipped from the
different boats above and below the
cataract. There are always a number
of Nubian boats there employed in the
trade between the 1st and 2nd Cataracts.
They are a very inferior class
of boat to the smart modern Egyptian
dahabeeyeh; but there are a few big
ones, not very clean, and with hardly
any furniture, which can be hired for
the voyage to the 2nd Cataract and
back, with an allowance of four days'
stoppages, for 12l., and a small backsheesh

to the captain and crew. The
pilot who always accompanies the
dahabeeyeh in its voyage between the
1st and 2nd Cataracts generally comes
from this village, and is taken on board
in passing. His fee, which is included
in a dragoman's contract, is, with
backsheesh, from 2l. 10l. to 3l. Passengers
who have booked to the 2nd
Cataract by Messrs. Cook's steamers,
will embark at Philæ. The steamers
that ply above the 1st Cataract are
not so large as those between Cairo
and Assooán, but are very comfortable.
Island of Philae, 5 m.—Those who
visit Philæ from Assooán can either
take a boat from Mahattah, or from a
point some way farther up the bank,
just opposite the island. The approach
to the island by water is very striking.
The river winds in and out among
gigantic black rocks of most fantastic
form and shape, and then suddenly,
after a sharp turn or two, Philæ
comes suddenly in sight. “Beautiful”
is the epithet commonly applied to
this spot, justly considered to present
the finest bit of scenery on the Nile;
but the beauty, or rather grandeur, is
more in the framework of the picture
than in the picture itself. The view
from the top of the propylon tower at
Philæ, of all beyond the island, is very
fine, and is well worth the trouble of
making the ascent.
In Egyptian the island was called
Pilale, or Ailak, and Ma-n-lek, “the
Place of the Frontier.” Its Greek
appellation Philæ is a strange misnomer.
The Arabs call it Anas el
Wogóod, or more generally Gezeeret
el-Beerbeh.
The whole length of the island is
about 400 yards, and its breadth 140.
The usual landing-place from a small
boat is at the N. end; but dahabeeyehs
generally moor to the E. bank. The
whole surface of the island is covered
with ruins, but none of them are of
earlier date, so far as has hitherto
been ascertained, than the XXXth
Dynasty (361 B.C.). See plan (p. 530).
Ruins.—A very good general idea
of them can be obtained from the
top of the granite rock at the S. end
[Egypt.—PT. II.]
of the island. Beginning at this end,
at the W, corner is the Chapel of
Nectanebo (a), dedicated to Isis. This
is the oldest ruin on the island. In
front of it stood ten small obelisks, of
which one remains broken in half.
There are 14 columns with the usual
lotus and papyrus, two capitals surmounted
by the head of Athor. On
the E. door are traces of colour. On
the right of this building is a staircase
(b), still partly preserved, which was no
doubt the landing-place leading up to
The Great Temple of Isis, the principal
building on the island.
It was commenced by Ptolemy Philadelphus
and Arsinoë, and completed
by succeeding monarchs; among
whom are Euergetes I., Philometer,
his brother Euergetes II., with the
two Cleopatras, and Ptolemy the elder
son of Auletes, whose name is found
in the area and on the pylon. Many
of the sculptures on the exterior are
of the later epoch of the Roman emperors,
Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius,
Domitian, Nerva, and Trajan.
Nowhere has the mania of the
Egyptians for irregularity been carried
to such an extent as here. “No Gothic
architect in his wildest moments ever
played so freely with his lines and
dimensions, and none, it must be
added, ever produced anything so
beautifully picturesque as this. It
contains all the play of light and
shade, all the variety of Gothic art,
with the massiveness and grandeur of
the Egyptian style; and as it is still
tolerably entire, and retains much of
its colour, there is no building out of
Thebes that gives so favourable an
impression of Egyptian art as this.
It is true it is far less sublime than
many, but hardly one can be quoted
as more beautiful.”—J. Fergusson.
The temple was approached by two
corridors of unequal length, and not
parallel to one another. The West
Corridor (c) begins near the Chapel of
Nectanebo, and runs along the bank
close to the river-wall. It has 32
columns, with capitals of different
forms. On the roof are gold stars on
a blue ground. Both here and in
some of the sculptures on the walls

Plan of the Island of Philæ.

representing Tiberius, Caligula and
Claudius, the colours are well preserved
Between the eleventh and
twelfth columns a staircase leads to a
postern immediately above the riverside.
The East Corridor (d), which

is of more recent date still, has only
16 columns with unfinished capitals.
It is preceded by a building of which
only the foundations remain, but
which seems to have consisted of
several chambers, and ends in a small
Chapel of Æsculapius (e), of which
the doors are covered with figures and
inscriptions. One Greek inscription
tells us that the chapel was dedicated
by Ptolemy Epiphanes and Cleopatra
to Æsculapius, i.e. Imhotep, son of
Ptah and Pasht. Advancing over a
mass of ruins, among which may be
noticed the remains of two granite
lions, and the pedestals of obelisks,
we arrive at the
First Propylon (f), the two massive
towers of which are 120 feet wide and
60 feet high. On its exterior face are
colossal sculptures of divinities and
Ptolemy Philometer swinging his
battle-axe over a batch of bound prisoners.
Near the bottom are a series
of figures representing the god Nilus
carrying various emblems, on which
are the names of various towns and
districts in Egypt. The name of
Nectanebo II. is found in this pylon.
On the left, or W. side of the gateway
us we pass through it, are sculptured
some small figures, and a colossal one
of Isis; and on the right or E. side is
a tablet put up by the French army
under Desaix, to commemorate their
reaching this point during the expedition
to Egypt at the end of the last
century. Through the pylon we pass
into a large Court (g), on the E. of
which is a portico, and on the W. a
small temple, while another pylon
closes its N. end. The Portico (h)
was begun by Ptolemy Philometer,
continued by his successors, and
finished by Tiberius. It consists of
10 columns, and to the E. of it were
several chambers, each with a door
opening into it from the portico. In
the southernmost of these chambers,
the one next to the propylon, is a
staircase leading to several rooms, and
on to the roof of the propylon, from
which there is a magnificent View.
The northernmost of these chambers
is larger than the others, and is supposed
to have been the library. The
Temple (i) on the W. side of the court
was the mammeisi, of which we have
seen instances at Denderah and elsewhere
It was built by Ptolemy
Euergetes, and consists of three chambers
surrounded by a portico. In all
the chambers are the representations
usual in these mammeisi of the birth
of Horus. The portico on the W.
side was decorated by Tiberius, and
contains representations of a great
number of divinities. On the wall of
the E. side is a copy of the inscription
contained in the famous Rosetta
stone, but only the demotic and hieroglyphic
text are given without the
Greek. Close to this point a Nilometer
has been discovered beside a
staircase which leads down to the
river. The average length of the
cubit on this Nilometer is 1 ft. 8.9 in.,
being almost exactly the same as
that of the average cubit on the Nilometer
of Elephantine. To the large
court succeeds a
Second Propylon (j), of smaller dimensions
than the first. Its eastern
tower stands on a granite rock, whose
face has been cut into the form of a
tablet, and bears an inscription in
which are mentioned the grants of
land made to the temple by Ptolemy
Philometer and Ptolemy Euergetes II.
The gate of this propylon leads into
a Double Portico (k) with 10 gigantic
columns, remarkable for the brilliancy
of the Colors still remaining on their
capitals. The walls and ceiling are
covered with astronomical and other
subjects, and the figures of divinities.
The presence of a cross in this and
other parts of the temple may be taken
as evidence of the existence of the
Church of St. Stephen, into which
this temple is said to have been turned
at the end of the 6th century. After
this portico come three chambers in
succession, of which the last was the
Sanctuary (l). In it is a monolithic
granite shrine. On the wall is a representation
of Ptolemy Philadelphus,
suckled by Isis. On either side
of these chambers are other rooms, in
the first of which on the right will be
found the latitude and longitude of
the island, as taken by the scientific

members of the French expedition.
Near this room is the entrance to
crypts and hidden passages, similar
to those at Denderah. From the corresponding
lateral chamber on the
opposite side a staircase leads up to a
terrace. On the left, at the top of
the staircase, is a small room covered
with interesting sculptures relating to
the death and resurrection of Osiris.
From a Greek ex-voto in this
chamber we learn the interesting fact
that the worship of Isis and Osiris
was still carried on at Philæ in A.D.
453, more than 70 years after the
famous edict of Theodosius abolishing
the Egyptian religion. This fact may
also be gathered from some of the
other numerous ex-votos inscribed on
the walls of the pylon and other parts
of the temple. The ruin of the temple
is attributed to Justinian. Thanks to
the exertions of the English officers
stationed at Philæ, there has been a
good deal of clearing recently done.
Other Ruins.—On the W. side of
the island, in a line with the second
pylon of the Great Temple, is a ruined
building (m) of no importance. Passing
over to the other side we come
to the very beautiful temple commonly
called “Pharaoh's bed” (n).
It is an oblong rectangular building
of late date surrounded by an intercolumnar
screen with 14 columns.
The temple was roofed with stone
slabs, supported on wooden beams, the
sockets for which are still existing.
There is a doorway in the W. wall,
and one in the E. wall opening on to
the stone terrace or quay which
appears to have extended nearly all
round the island. Another portion
of this terrace is seen to the N. of
this temple, and behind it is a very
small temple (o) built by Ptolemy
Physcon. Still farther N. are the
remains of what appears to have been
an arched gate (p) with steps down
to the river.
The crude-brick ruins which cover
the island are mostly of Christian
time; and among them may be seen
some small pointed arches; similar
to those at Medeenet Háboo in
Thebes, and in other early Christian
villages, which probably date about
the time of the Arab invasion in the
7th century A.D.
Besides the Church of St. Stephen,
already spoken of as having been
formed out of a part of the large
temple, another church stood at the
N.E. corner of the island, and it is
evident that the early Christians
occupied both this island and Biggeh,
and converted the temples into
churches, concealing with a coating
of clay or mortar the objects of worship
of their pagan predecessors.
The Island of Biggeh lies to the W.
of Philæ. It is called Senem in the
hieroglyphics, and appears afterwards
to have borne the Greek name of
Abaton, “inaccessible,” though Plutarch
seems to apply that name, at
least in one sense, to Philæ, when he
says that “it is inaccessible and unapproachable
… except when the
priests go to crown the Tomb of Osiris.
From the number of inscriptions it is
evident that Biggeh was from a very
early period considered as a sacred
place, and the presence of a red
granite statue with the oval of Amenhotep
II. of the XVIIIth Dynasty
points to the existence here of a
temple of ancient date. The only
building remaining is the small
Temple of Athor in front of the statue,
built by Ptolemy Euergetes I. It
was subsequently turned into a
church, to which period the arch in
the centre belongs. Most of the
inscriptions refer to the functionaries
sent to govern the land of Cush, that
is the Greek Ethiopia, the modern
Nubia. They begin from the time of
the XVIIIth Dynasty. On the E.
side of the island, facing Philæ, is a
granite stela with the name of Psammetichus
I.
There is a capital View of the
temple of Philæ from the high rocks
at the S. end of Biggeh.
Island of Konosso.—The northern
end of Biggeh becomes a separate
island during the inundation, and is
called Konosso. Among the inscriptions

on it is a tablet with the name
of a Mentuhotep Ranebtaui of the
XIth Dynasty, described as the conqueror
of thirteen nations and the
devoted servant of Khem. From a
high ridge of rocks, at the extreme
N. end of this island, there is a magnificent
View over the upper end of
the cataract and the village of
Mahattah. The rocks here and at
Biggeh are well worth clambering
over, for the sake of the pretty views
which can be obtained.
On the E. bank, opposite Philæ,
are some mounds, and the remains of
a stela and monolith of granite; the
former bearing the name of the 2nd
Psammetichus, and consecrated to
Kneph and Saté.
The Rly. Stat. of Shellal is opposite
the island.
A little distance to the S. are
masses of old alluvium deposited
there by the Nile before its level was
lowered by the fall of the rocks at
Silsilis. From its irregularity, and
the sudden depressions in it, the accident
probably happened while the
river was high; and it has also the
appearance of having been hollowed
out by a sudden rush of water from
the surface. Its general level is about
28 ft. above the greatest inundation
of these days, and that of the highest
masses is about 10 ft. more. Standing
here, you at once perceive that when
the river was at that height it ran
straight forward over the plain between
the eastern mountains and Assooán.
Other remains of this alluvium are
found on the road from Assooán to
Philæ. The river at that time may
also have flowed by the other channel
through the Cataracts; and the two
streams joined each other some way
lower down, near Esh-Shaymeh, where
the eastern mountains approach the
Nile, opposite the Sheykh's tomb on the
western hill, called Kobbet El-Hówa.
The old alluvial deposit may be
traced throughout Ethiopia, high
above the reach of the present inundation.
There is a rock opposite the N. end
of Philæ, remarkable for its elevated
appearance and general form; but
there is no reason to suppose that any
religious idea was attached to it, as
some have imagined, and much less
that it was Abaton.
On the E. bank, a little to the S.E.
of Philæ, is a ruined fortress on the
crest and slope of the rocks, with
square and round towers; and on the
S. side is a doorway having a round
arch of brick between two round
towers, and leading into a court. It
is probably of Christian time. Here,
too, are the ruins of two large mosques:
the southernmost one is built in great
part of stones from some temple,
many of them being covered with
hieroglyphics; the superstructure is
chiefly bricks baked and crude. On
the hill above is a santon's tomb,
from which there is a fine view of
Philæ and Biggeh.

Philæ, approaching it from the Cataracts.

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534

SECTION X.
THE VALLEY OF THE NILE IN NUBIA FROM THE FIRST
TO THE SECOND CATARACT, AND TO KHARTOOM.

PAGE
NUBIA:—
General Observations
534
ROUTE 21. Philæ (1st Cataract) to Wády Halfah (2nd Cataract) 537

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

a, Character of the Country.—b. Ancient History and Geography.—c. Modern
Inhabitants.

a. CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.

We have no hesitation in advising every one who gets as far as Assooán, to
continue the voyage to Wády Halfah. The scenery is far more beautiful
than in Egypt, the climate if anything more perfect (except perhaps between
Aboo Simbel and Wàdy Halfah, where a strong cold north wind is often very
disagreeable), and the giant statues of Aboo Simbel certainly rank next in
antiquarian interest to the Pyramids and the ruins of Thebes, besides being
in themselves something quite unique. On the other hand, it may be said
that of antiquities there is little worth seeing in Nubia by the ordinary
traveller but Aboo Simbel, and there is a general absence of animal life which
some might find wearisome. The inhabitants are few, and, with the exception
of crocodiles and an occasional duck, the sandbanks and borders of the river
are untenanted, but some few birds are more likely to be met with in Nubia
than in Egypt. Among them may be mentioned the beautiful yellow-breasted
Sunbird (N. Metallica), a species of bush-babbler (Crateropus
Acaciæ
), and the “bulbul” (Pycnonnotus Arsinöe). A white-winged wagtail
(M. Vidua) is almost confined to the neighbourhood of the First Cataract,
but is there plentiful. The desert hare may occasionally be met with, and
patience and the assistance of a native hunter may succeed in procuring the
chance of a shot at a gazelle.
All information with regard to the continuation of the voyage either by
steamer or in a dahabeeyeh has been already given (Sect. VII., PRELIMINARY
INFORMATION). Should the traveller from any cause be unable to pass the
First Cataract in the dahabeeych he has hired at Cairo, he will be able to
procure another one at Mahattah (see p. 528). It will take from a fortnight

to three weeks to go from Philæ to Wàdy Halfah and hack in a dahabeeyeh.
It only takes one weeks by steamer, and this gives time to see Aboo Simbel
and other points of interest.

b. ANCIENT HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY.

The countries bordering the Nile south of Egypt were known to the old
Egyptians by the name of Koosh (Cush). The name Kens is also found
applied to that part nearest the Egyptian frontier. The present name of the
district is El Kenoos.
The first Pharaoh of whom there is any record as having conquered the
Kooshites, is Osirtasen I., of the XIIth Dynasty, whose example was followed
by Osirtasen III. The latter built a temple at Semneh above the Second
Cataract, and fixed the Egyptian frontier there. Thothmes I., of the XVIIIth
Dynasty, has left a record of his triumphs over the Kooshites on a rock
opposite Tombos. Thothmes III. built temples at Amada, at Semneh, and
at Soleb. Amenhotep III. also built at Soleb, and at Gebel Barkal near
Aboo Hamed. Rameses II. of the XIXth Dynasty added to this temple at
Gebel Barkal, and besides the smaller rock-cut temples of Derr and Bayt
el-Wellee, the grand monument at Aboo Simbel dates from his reign.
At the epoch of the XXIIIrd Dynasty we find Egypt and Koosh have
greatly changed places, Egypt, or at any rate the southern portion of it,
having become a province of Ethiopia, a general name by which the countries
on the Nile south of Egypt became afterwards generally known. This
change reached its height under the XXVth Dynasty, which was composed
entirely of Ethiopian sovereigns, the last of them being Tirhakah. This
Ethiopian domination over Egypt is satisfactorily proved by the historical
stela discovered by M. Mariette at Napata or Gobel Barkal. The pyramids
at Meroë may be probably referred to the Tirhakah period. In the
time of Psammetichus, Elephantine was the border of Egypt. Under the
Ptolemies the frontier was fixed at Hierasycaminon, about 80 miles S. of
Syene, and the district was called Dodecachænus, from that distance
equalling 12 Egyptian schænes. Many temples, Kalabsheh, Dakkeh, &c.,
belong to this period.
Under the government of Petronius, the 2nd Roman prefect of Egypt, an
expedition was undertaken against the Ethiopians in consequence of an
attack made by them on the Roman garrison of Syene, the then frontier
town. Petronius penetrated to and destroyed Napata, the capital of Candace,
the queen of the Ethiopians. Napata, according to Pliny, was 870 Roman
miles above the Cataracts, and is supposed to be El-Barkal of the present
day, where pyramids and extensive ruins denote the former existence of an
important city. Gebel Barkal was called in hieroglyphics “the Sacred
Mountain.”
In Strabo's time, who visited Egypt during the government of Ælius
Gallus, Petronius's successor, Syene was again the frontier, the Romans
having, as he observes, “confined the province of Egypt within its former
limits.” Philæ then belonged “in common to the Egyptians and Ethiopians.”
This did not, however, prevent the Cæsars from considering Lower Ethiopia
as belonging to them, or from adding to the temples already created there.
Strabo says the Ethiopians above Syene consisted of the Troglodytæ,
Blemmyes, Nubæ, and Megabari. The Megabari and Blemmyes inhabited
the eastern desert, N. of Meroë to the frontiers of Egypt, and were under the
dominion of the Ethiopians. The Ichthyophagi lived on the shore of the Red
Sea; the Troglodytæ from Berenice southwards, between it and the Nile;
and the Nubæ, an African nation, were on the left bank, and independent of
Ethiopia.
From Procopius we learn that in the year A.D. 296, in the reign of Diocletian,
these Nubæ, or Nobaæ, as he calls them, were given the country above
Syene on condition of their protecting Egypt against the incursions of the
Blemmyes. This state of things appears to have continued, for we find at
Kalabsheh a Greek inscription, dating from the end of the 6th century, in
which “Silco, king of the Nubadæ and of all the Ethiopians,” records his
triumph over the Blemmyes. Half a century afterwards the country was
conquered by the Arabs, by whose writers it has always been called Noba.

c. MODERN INHABITANTS.

The country between the First and Second Cataracts forms part of the
Province of Esneh, and is divided into two districts, El Kenoos, which
extends from the First Cataract to Derr, and Halfa, which extends from this
point to the Second Cataract. The total population of the two districts is
about 62,000. The inhabitants are of a different race to the Egyptians, and
speak a language of their own, which is called Rotana. The Nubæ are lighter
in colour than the negro, and darker than the Arab. They are sometimes
called Barabra. Many of them go to lower Egypt as servants, but nearly
always return when they have made a little money. Some of the best
servants are Barabra or Berbers.
The character of the country above Philæ differs very much from Egypt,
particularly from that part below Esneh. The hills are mostly sandstone and
granite, and, from their coming very near the river, frequently leave only a
narrow strip of soil at the immediate bank, on which the people depend for
the scanty supply of corn or other produce grown in the country. It is not
therefore surprising that the Nubians are poor: though, from their limited
wants and thrifty habits, they do not suffer from the miseries of poverty.
The palm-tree, which there produces dates of very superior quality, is to them
a great resource, both in the plentiful supply it affords for their own use, and
in the profitable exportation of its fruit to Egypt, where it is highly prized,
especially that of the Ibréemee kind, the fruit of which is much larger and
of better flavour than that of other palms, and the tree differs in the appearance
of its leaves, which are of a finer and softer texture. The Sont, or
Mimosa Nilotica, also furnishes articles for export, of great importance to the
Nubian, in its gum, pods for tanning, and charcoal; and henneh, senna,
baskets, mats, and a few other things produced or made in Nubia, return a
good profit in sending them to Egypt. Nubia justly boasts of one blessing,
which is that fleas and bugs will not live there. It is not, however, to be
supposed that a boat hired at the Cataracts would necessarily be free from
these plagues, or that they cannot be kept alive in a boat during the cold
weather: but the fact is not the less certain that Nubia is free from them,
and no boat, however dirty, or however careless its inmates, would retain
them long during the summer weather.
When the Nile is low, the land is irrigated by water-wheels, which are the
pride of the Nubian peasant. Even the endless and melancholy creaking of
these clumsy machines is a delight to him, which no grease is permitted to
diminish, all that he can get being devoted to the shaggy hair of his unturbanned
head. A certain portion of land is irrigated by each water-wheel, and the
wealth of an individual is estimated by the number of these machines, as in
other countries by farms or acres of land; and, as is reasonable to suppose, in
a hot climate like Nubia, they prefer the employment of oxen for the arduous
duty of raising water, to drawing it, like the Egyptian felláh, by the pole and
bucket of the shadóof. The consequence of this is, that the tax on waterwheels
falls very heavily on the Nubian, who also feels that on date-trees
much more than the Egyptian peasant,

ROUTE 21.
THE FIRST CATARACT (PHILÆ) TO THE
SECOND CATARACT (WADY HALFAH).

Miles.
Philæ to Dabód 10 1/2
Gertássee 15
Kalabsheh 6 3/4
Dandóor 13
Gerf Hossayn 9
Dakkeh 10 1/2
Kortah 3 1/2
Mahrakah 3 3/4
Saboóah 20
Korosko 12 1/2
Amada 7 1/2
Derr 4
Ibreem 13
Aboo Simbel 34
Wády Halfah 40
210
(E.) About 8 miles above Philæ,
near the E. bank, is an eddy, called
by the natives “the Eddy of the
Oasis,” and believed by them to communicate
underground with the Great
Oasis.
(W.) Dabód, 10 1/2 m., is supposed to
be the Parembole of Antoninus. The
ruins there consist of a Temple,
founded apparently by Ashar-Amen,
or Atar-Amen, a monarch of Ethiopia,
who was probably the immediate successor
of Ergamen, the contemporary
of Ptolemy Philadelphus. Over the
central pylon, in front of it, are the
remains of a Greek inscription, bearing
the name of Ptolemy Philometer
with that of his queen Cleopatra.
The temple was dedicated to Isis,
who, as well as Osiris and her son
Horus, were principally worshipped
here; Amen being one of the chief
contemplar deities. Augustus and
Tiberius added most of the sculptures,
but they were left unfinished,
as was usually the case in the temples
of Nubia. The main building commenced
with a hall of columns, having
four columns in front, which are now
destroyed; then follows a central and
two lateral chambers with a staircase
leading to the upper rooms; to which
succeed another central apartment
immediately before the adytum, and
two side chambers. On one side of
the portico a wing has been added at
a later period. The three pylons
before the temple follow each other in
succession, but not at equal distances,
and the whole is enclosed by a wall
of circuit, of which the front pylon
forms the entrance. The adytum is
unsculptured, but two monoliths
within it bear the name of Physcon
and Cleopatra; and in the front
chamber of the naos is that of the
Ethiopian king “Ashar (Atar)-Amen,
the ever-living,”who in some of his
nomens is called “the beloved of
Isis.” Among the few subjects sculptured
in the portico are Thoth and
Hor-Hat engaged in pouring alternate
emblems of life and purity over
Tiberius; alluding to the ceremony of
anointing him king. Some distance
before the temple is a stone quay,
which had a staircase leading from
the river.
Two days W. of Dabód, and about
the same distance from Assooán and
from Kalabsheh, is a small uninhabited
Oasis, called the Oasis of Koorkoor.
It abounds in dates, and has
some wells, but no ruins.
Between Dabód and Gertássee the
only remains are a wall projecting
into the river, marking perhaps the
site of Tzitzi—a single column; and
on the opposite bank, at Gamille, the
ruined wall of a temple. On the
island Morgóse are some crude-brick
ruins.
One of the most beautiful bits of
river-scenery on the Nile begins about
this point. A wide reach opens out
for many miles, bordered on either
side with a sloping bank of bright
green, whose uniformity is sometimes
broken by masses of huge granite
boulders. Here and there is a village
with its grove of palms: and clear
against the sky stands out the small

ruined temple of Gertássee, perhaps
the most picturesque bit of ruin in
Egypt, and certainly the only one,
with the exception of Kom Ombo,
which owes anything to its position.
The temples are all too much on a
dead level to add to the beauty of the
landscape.
(W.) Gertássee, 15 m. The Temple
is a short distance N. of the village.
Only a few columns are standing.
What interest it has is derived from its
picturesque position. A short distance
S. of the temple is a sandstone quarry,
in which are one enchorial, and upwards
of 50 Greek ex-votos. They are
mostly of the time of Antoninus Pius,
M. Aurelius, and Severus, in honour
of Isis, to whom the neighbouring
temple was probably dedicated. Some
refer to the works in the quarry, and
one of them mentions the number of
stones cut by the writer for the great
temple of the same goddess at Philæ.
In the centre is a square niche, which
may once have contained a statue of
the goddess; and on either side are
busts in high relief, placed within
recesses, and evidently, from their
style, of Roman workmanship. The
road by which the stones were taken
from the quarry is still discernible.
At the village are the remains of a
large enclosure of stone, on whose N.
side is a pylon, having a few hieroglyphics,
and the figure of a goddess,
probably Isis, with a head-dress surmounted
by the horns and globe.
(W.) Tády, or Wády Táfah, 7 m.,
a prettily situated village among
groves of palms. Here are some more
stone enclosures, but on a smaller
scale than that of Gertássee, being
about 22 paces by 18. The position of
the stones is singular, each row presenting
a crescent or concave surface
to the one above it, the stones at the
centre being lower than at the angles.
In a length of 50 ft. the depression
below the horizontal line is 1 ft. 3 in.
In one are several rooms communicating
with each other by doorways;
but the enclosures themselves are
quite unconnected, and some at a
considerable distance from the rest.
They are of Roman date, as the
mouldings of the doorway show: but
it is difficult to ascertain the use for
which they were intended. The stones
are rusticated (or rough) in the centre,
and smooth at the edges, as in many
Roman buildings.
There are the remains of two temples
at Táfah. One, quite ruined, is close
to the river, with a flight of steps
leading down between two walls to a
quay. The other Temple is inside the
village, and is in fact used by the
natives as a dwelling-house. It was
converted into a church by the early
Christians. On one of the walls is an
almanack, supposed to be of the 4th
or 5th century. Christianity, introduced
in the age of Justinian, was
the religion of Ethiopia till a late
period (though Edreesee considered it
extinct in 1154 except in the desert),
since in Wansleb's time, 1673, the
churches were still entire, and only
closed for want of pastors. Two of
the columns of the portico are still
standing, and on the adjoining wall
are some Greek inscriptions and the
figures of saints. Behind the portico
is a chamber, which may have been
the adytum.
The inhabitants of Táfah and the
neighbourhood have the character of
being independent and quarrelsome.
Some of the wádies which here come
down from the desert to the river are
said to be frequented occasionally by
gazelle.
Soon after passing Táfah the
granite begins to reappear, and the
scenery reminds us of Philæ and the
Cataracts. Boulders of basalt appear
here and there in the stream, which
flows with great rapidity, and is
divided into several channels by
islands, not utterly barren, however,
but covered in many places with signs
of cultivation. This part of the river
extends for two or three miles, and is
called El-Báb, “the Gate,” it being
in fact a series of rapids on a small
scale.
(W.) Kalábsheh, 6 1/2 miles, a village
lying just above the rapids. It is the
Talmis of the Itinerary, and possesses
ruins of the largest temple in Nubia,

Temple of Kalábsheh.—It appears to
have been built in the reign of
Augustus; and though other Cæsars,
particularly Caligula, Trajan, and
Severus, made considerable additions
to the sculptures, it was left unfinished.
The stones employed in its
construction had belonged to an older
edifice, to which it succeeded; and it
is highly probable that the original
temple was of the early epoch of
Thothmes III., whose name is still
traced on a granite statue lying near
the quay before the entrance.
This extensive building consists of
a naos, hall of columns, and couch.
The naos is divided into three successive
chambers,—the adytum, a hall,
and a third room opening on the
portico, which has twelve columns,
three in depth and four in breadth,
the front row united by screens on
either side of the entrance. The court
is surrounded on three sides with a
peristyle of fourteen columns and the
propylon, beyond which is a pavement,
and a staircase leading to the platform
of the quay that sustains the bank of
the river. The temple is surrounded
by two walls of circuit, both of which
are joined to the propylon. The space
between them is occupied by several
chambers, and at the upper extremity
is a small building with columns,
forming the area to a chapel hewn
in the rock. At the N.E. corner is
also a small chapel, which belonged to
the original temple, and is anterior
to the buildings about it; and to the
N. is another enclosure of considerable
extent, connected with the outer
wall, and two detached doorways. In
some parts of the temple the colours
are still exceedingly bright, which is
probably due to the Christians, who,
by covering over the sculptures, paintings,
and hieroglyphics with plaster,
were the unintentional means of preserving
much that is interesting. But
the sculptures throughout the temple
are of very inferior style; nor could
the richness of gilding that once
covered those at the entrances of the
first chambers of the naos have compensated
for the deficiency of their
execution. Its extent, however, claims
for it a conspicuous place among the
largest monuments dedicated to the
deities of Egypt. Mandouli, or, according
to the ancient Egyptians,
Malouli, or Merouli, was the deity of
Talmis, and it is in his honour that
the greater part of the numerous
ex-votos in the area are inscribed by
their pious writers. The most interesting
of these inscriptions is that of
“Silco, king of the Nubadæ and of
all the Ethiopians,” which records
his several defeats of the Blemmyes;
and, to judge from his own account,
he neither spared the vanquished nor
was scrupulous in celebrating his
exploits.
Perhaps the most remarkable thing
about the temple of Kalábsheh is the
extraordinary mass of ruins it presents.
It appears to have been thrown
down almost before it was completed,
and by what agency it is impossible
to conjecture.
A short distance from the temple,
towards the N.W., are the sandstone
Quarries, from which the stone used
in building its walls was taken; and
on the hill behind it are found the
scattered bones of mummies. In the
village are the remains of walls.
The ancient town stood on the N.
and S. of the temple, and extended
along the hill towards the Bayt el-Wéllee,
which is strewed with bricks
and broken pottery.
(W.) Bayt el-Wéllee.—It is not
without considerable satisfaction that
the Egyptian antiquary turns from
the coarse sculptures of the Roman
era to the chaste and elegant designs
of a Pharaonic age which are met
with in the sculptures of Rameses II.
at the Bayt el- Wellee, “the House of
the Saint,” a small but interesting
temple excavated in the rock, and
dedicated to Amen-ra, with Kneph,
and Anouké. It consists of a small
inner chamber or adytum; a hall
supported by two polygonal columns
of very ancient style, which call to
mind the simplicity of the Greek
Doric; and an area in front. At the
upper end of the hall are two niches
each containing three sitting figures
in high relief; and on the walls of the

area, outside the hall, are sculptured
the victories of Rameses; casts of
which are in the British Museum.
The sculptures relate to the wars
of this Pharaoh against the Cush
or Ethiopians, and the Shori, who,
having been previously reduced by
the Egyptian monarchs, and made
tributary to them, rebelled about this
period, and were reconquered by
Sethi I. and Rameses II. On the rt. hand
wall the monarch, seated on a
throne under a canopy or shrine,
receives the offerings brought by
the conquered Ethiopians, preceded
by the Prince of Cush, Amenmatapé,
and introduced by the eldest son of
the conqueror, Amenhiumami. Rings
and bags of gold, leopard-skins, rich
thrones, flabella, elephants' teeth,
ostrich-eggs, and other objects, are
among the presents placed before him;
and a deputation of Ethiopians advances,
bringing a lion, oryx, oxen,
and gazelles. The lower line commences
with some Egyptian chiefs,
who are followed by the prince of
Kush and other Ethiopians, bringing
plants of their country, skins, apes, a
camelopard, and other animals. Beyond
this is represented the battle
and defeat of the enemy. Rameses,
mounted in his car, is attended by his
charioteer, who urges the horses to
their full speed. The king discharges
his arrows on the disorderly troops of
the enemy, who betake themselves
to the woods. At the upper end of
the picture a wounded chief is taken
home by his companions. One of his
children throws dust on its head in
token of sorrow, and another runs to
announce the sad news to its mother,
who is employed in cooking at a fire
lighted on the ground.
On the opposite wall is the war
against the Shori. At the upper end,
which is in reality the termination of
the picture, Rameses is seated on a
throne, at whose base is crouched a
lion, Smamkheftus, “the tearer to
pieces of his enemies,” his companion
in battle. His eldest son brings into
his presence a group of prisoners
of that nation; and in the lower
compartment is a deputation of
Egyptian chiefs. Beyond this, the
conqueror engages in single combat
with one of the enemy's generals,
and slays him with his sword, in
the presence of his son and other
Egyptian officers; and the next compartment
represents him in his car, in
the heat of the action, overtaking the
leader of the hostile army, whom he
also despatches with his sword. The
enemy then fly in all directions to
their fortified town, which the king
advances to besiege. Some sue for
peace; while his son, forcing the
gates, strikes terror into the few who
resist. Then trampling on the prostrate
foe, Rameses seizes and slays
their chiefs; and several others are
brought in fetters before him by his
son.
Such are the principal subjects in
the area of this temple, which, next
to Aboo Simbel, is the most interesting
monument in Nubia.
Much henneh is grown here. The
pounded leaves are exported to Egypt,
and are used for dyeing the nails and
fingers of women red. It is the
of the Greeks; and the” cluster
of camphire” (kuphr) in Solomon's
Song, i. 13, is translated in the LXX.
It is, perhaps, alluded
to in Deut. xxi. 12, though our
translation has “pare her nails.” It
is the Lawsonia spinosa et inermis of
Linæus.
The people of Kalábsheh are a
noisy, troublesome lot, very eager to
dispose of the usual Nubian curiosities.
After passing Kalábsheh, the hills
shut the river closely in on both sides,
and hardly a strip of cultivation relieves
the bare and arid monotony of
the scene. Here and there are to be
seen jetties of loose stones, intended
to turn the force of the current,
and prevent it washing away what
little soil there is. At Aboo Hor is
a sort of rapid, and at low water there
is only a narrow passage left between
the breakers and the E. bank. A short
distance further on the hills recede,
and the scenery is less drear.
(W.) Dendoór, 13 m,—The Temple

of Dendoór
stands just within the
tropic. It consists of a portico with
two columns in front, two inner chambers,
and the adytum: at the end of
which is a tablet, with the figure of a
goddess, apparently Isis. In front of
the portico is a pylon, opening on an
area enclosed by a low wall, and
facing towards the river; and behind
the temple is a small grotto excavated
in the sandstone rock. It has the
Egyptian cornice over the door, and
before it is an entrance-passage built
of stone.
The sculptures are of the time of
Augustus, in whose reign it appears
to have been founded. The chief
deities were Osiris, Isis, and Horus.
(E.) The ruined town of Sabagóora,
nearly opposite Gerf Hossáyn, occupies
the summit and slope of a hill,
near the river, and is famous for the
resistance made there by a desperate
Nubian chief against the troops of
Ibrahim Pasha. Near it is the village
of Kirsheh.
(W.) Gerf Hossáyn, 9 m., the ancient
Tutzis, in Coptic, Thoeh, but
from being under the special protection
of Ptah, the deity of the place, it was
called by the Egyptians Ptah-ei, or
“the Abode of Ptah.” The resemblance
of the Coptic name Thosh with
Ethaush, signifying, in the same dialect,
Ethiopia, is rendered peculiarly
striking, from the word Cush, in the
old Egyptian language “Ethiopia,”
being retained in the modern name
of this place, which in Nubian is
called Kish.
The Temple is of the time of Rameses
II., entirely excavated in the
rock, except the portico or area in
front. At the upper end of the
adytum are 4 sitting figures in high
relief. Three similar statues occur in
each of the eight niches of the great
hall, and in the two others within the
area. This area had a row of four
Osiride figures on either side, and
four columns in front, but little now
remains of the wall that enclosed it;
and the total depth of the excavated
part does not exceed 130 ft. The
Osiride figures in the hall are very
badly executed, ill according with the
sculpture of the second Rameses; nor
are the statues of the sanctuary of a
style worthy of that era. The deity
of the town was Ptah, to whom the
dedications of the temple were inscribed;
and Athor, Pasht (the companion
and “beloved of Ptah”), and
Anoúkâ, each held a conspicuous place
among the contemplar deities.
(W.) At Kashtamneh is a doorway,
with the agathodæmon over it; and
the remains of masonry near the bank.
Here the Nile is said to be fordable
in May.
Here are some more of the large
stone piers before referred to, evidently
built with far more care than any
works of the modern inhabitants.
(W.) Dakkeh, 10 1/2 m., is the Pselcis
of the Itinerary of Pliny and of Ptolemy.
Strabo, who calls it Pselchê,
says it was an Ethiopian city in his
time; the Romans having given up
all the places south of Philæ and
the Cataracts, the natural frontier of
Egypt. It was here that Petronius
defeated the generals of Candace, and
then, having taken the city, advanced
to Primis (Prêmnis) and to Napata,
the capital of the Ethiopian queen.
Strabo mentions an island at this spot,
in which many of the routed enemy,
swimming across the river, took refuge,
until they were made prisoners by the
Romans, who crossed over in boats and
rafts.
The Temple was founded by Ergamen,

an Ethiopian king,
and was added to and decorated
by the Ptolemies and
Cæsars. The oldest part is
the central chamber (with
the doorway in front of it),
which bears the name of
the Ethiopian monarch, and
was the original adytum.
This Ergamen or Ergamenes,
according to Diodorus,
was instructed in the
sciences and philosophy of the Greeks,
and a contemporary of Ptolemy Philadelphus.
The historian says that he
was the first to put an end to the
power of the priests in Ethiopia, and
that when, in accordance with the
prerogative they claimed, they sent

him a message from the gods ordering
him to die, he not only declined to
obey, but ordered the priests themselves
to be slaughtered. That he
failed not, however, to do honour to
the gods is shown by the representations
of him here presenting offerings
to the different deities of the temple.
Over one of the side doors he is styled
“son of Neph, born of Isis, nursed
by Anouké;” and on the other side,
“son of Osiris, born of Sáté, nursed
by Nephthys.” His royal title and
ovals read “king of men [(1) the
hand of Amen, the living, chosen of
Ra], son of the sun [(2) Ergamen,
everliving, the beloved of Isis].”
Ptolemy Philopator added to the
sculptures at Dakkeh; and his oval
occurs with that of his wife and sister
Arsinoë—his father, Ptolemy Euergetes—
and his mother, Berenice
Euergetes; and on the corresponding
side are those of Ptolemy Philadelphus
and Arsinoë Philadelphe. Physcon
or Euergetes II. afterwards built the
portico, as we learn from a mutilated
Greek inscription on the architrave,
accompanied by the hieroglyphic
name of that monarch; and by him the
present adytum was probably added.
The oval of Augustus likewise occurs
in the portico, but a great part
of this building was left unfinished,
as is generally found to be the case
with the Roman and Ptolemaïc
monuments in Nubia.
In the temple of Dakkeh is one of
the many instances of an Egyptian
portico, in antis, which was a mode of
building frequently used in Egypt as
well as in Greece. On the roof are
many paintings of Christian saints.
Within the sanctuary lies a large
broken block of red granite, polished,
which may have been a part of the
original shrine. And in one of the
side chambers are some curious sculptures,
in which figure a monkey and
lion. An inscription on a stela found
at Dakkeh relates to Rameses II. and
asserts that he was associated in the
kingly office with his father at 10
years of age.
The deity of Pselcis was Hermes
Trismegistus, to whom a considerable
number of Greek ex-votos have been
inscribed on the pylon and other parts
of the temple, by officers stationed
about Elephantine and Philæ, and
others who visited Pselcis, principally
in the time of the Cæsars. He is
styled the very great Hermes Pautnouphis.
But the name was probably
Taut-nouphis, which may be traced in
the hieroglyphics over this deity,
Taut-n-pnubs, or Taut-n-pnubsho, the
“Thoth of Pnubs” or “Pnubsho,” the
Egyptian name of Pselcis. He is called
in Arabic Hormos el Moselles, from his
triple” office of “king, prophet, and
physician.”
(E.) Kubbán, opposite Dakkeh,
marks the site of Metacompso, which
if Ptolemy is correct in placing it opposite
Pselcis, must be Contra-Pselcis.
Here there are some interesting remains
of a large crude-brick fortress,
which has some of the chief features
of the Egyptian system of fortification.
A lofty wall, about 15 ft. thick,
and more than 30 ft. high, encloses
a rectangular space, surrounded by a
ditch, with a scarp on one side, and
a counterscarp on the other. On the
N. side the wall is about 140 ft. long,
and on the E. side about 220 ft.
The bricks are of a great size. At
intervals, there are square towers, but,
instead of being as high as the wall,
they only reach to a certain height,
like buttresses; those too of the angles
are placed not on the corner of the
wall, but one on each side of it. This
last was usual even in forts with large
towers. There are also the low wall
in the ditch, parallel to the main wall;
and the long wall running across the
ditch at right angles with the main
wall to enable the besieged to rake its
face. This last is on the E. side. The
principal entrance was on the N., and
from this a movable bridge was laid
over the ditch, resting halfway on the
low wall, which is of stone. At the
S.W. corner is the water-gate, protected
and approached by a covert way
of stone, and flanked by a projecting
wall. Less than 1/2 m. to the S. are
the ruins of a small sandstone temple,
with clustered columns; and on the
way, near the village, you pass a stone

stela of Amenemhat III., mentioning
his 11th year. On other blocks are
the names of Thothmes III. and
Rameses II., and on a lion-headed
statue is that of Horus.
The most interesting inscription is
one which relates the boring by
Rameses II. of a well at the gold
mines of “Akita,” and the re-opening
of the mines. It has been translated
by Dr. S. Birch in ‘Records of the
Past,’ viii. 75 et seq. Brugsch-Bey
conjectures that this fortress marks
the point of departure at that period
for communication with the gold
mines in the Wády Allákee (see p.
327).
(W.) At Kortah, 3 1/2 m., the ancient
Corte, there are a few ruins.
(W.) Mahrakah, 3 3/4 m., marks the
site of Hierasycaminon, the limit of
the Dodecaschænus. The remains are
uninteresting. On a wall is a rude
representation of Isis seated under the
sacred fig-tree, and some other figures
of a Roman epoch. Near it is an
open court with peristyle on two sides,
apparently of the time of the Cæsars,
unfinished as usual; and, as we learn
from a Greek ex-voto on one of the
columns, dedicated to Isis and Serapis.
Like most of the edifices in Nubia, it
has been used as a place of worship
by the early Christians, and is the
last that we find of the time of the
Ptolemies or Cæars, with the exception
of Ibreem or Primis.
Soon after leaving Mahrakah, the
cultivated soil on the banks again
narrows, and the desert comes almost
to the brink of the river.
(W.) Wády Saboóah, 20 m., or the
“Valley of the Lions, “so called by
the Arabs from the androsphinxes
of the dromos that led up to the
temple. This temple is of the epoch
of Rameses II. It is all built of
sandstone, with the exception of the
adytum, which is excavated in the
rock. The dromos was adorned with
eight sphinxes on either side, now
more or less broken and buried, and
terminated by two statues with
sculptured stelæ at their back, still
standing; to this succeed the two
pyramidal towers of the propylon;
the area, with eight Osiride figures
attached to the pillars, supporting the
architraves and roofs of the lateral
corridors: and the interior chambers,
which are generally closed by the
drifted sand. On one of the walls is
what purports to be a list of the children
of Rameses II., each with his
name and title. According to this
wonderful catalogue he had more
than 160.
These chambers afford some curious
evidence of having been used as a
Christian church. Over the god whose
image was carved in the adytum has
been plastered a picture of St. Peter:
the other paintings, however, have
not been altered, and the result is that
Rameses II. is now seen making
offerings to a Christian saint. All
these rock-hewn chambers have been
thickly plastered, in order to fill up
the many holes and cracks that
occurred owing to the coarseness of
the grain of the stone, and the hieroglyphics
have been impressed in this
plaster when wet.
In respect of climate, the neighbourhood
of Saboóah is perhaps the
pleasantest in Nubia. The air is deliciously
soft and pure.
Soon after passing Saboóah, the
hills close in on the E. bank, and at
Malkeh the river begins to take a considerable
bend. In the northern
angle of this bend, where the eastern
hills again fall back considerably, lies
(E.) Korosko , 12 1/2 m., the chief
town of the district. There is a post-office
and telegraph office. From
this point the direct road lies across
the desert to Aboo Hamed and the
Upper Nile, Berber, Sennaar, Khartoom,
&c. Formerly a large amount
of traffic came from the Soudan into
Egypt by this road, but since the
wars of the last few years and the
abandonment of the Soudan, the trade
has entirely ceased. It is to be hoped
that it may not be long before it is
re-established. The road may be regarded
as closed to travellers for the
present. It was by this road that
General Gordon went to Khartoom in
1884. There is usually an Egyptian
garrison at this point.
It is worth while to walk a little way
inland, and climb one of the highest
peaks. The view obtained will give
a vivid impression of the savage sterility
of this desert: barren hills rising
one behind the other as far as the eye
can reach, only separated by as barren
valleys. The rock is sandstone,
thickly covered here and there with
volcanic remains.
Numerous rocky shoals obstruct the
E. bank of the river after leaving
Korosko; and there are large sandbanks
in the centre, on which crocodiles
may often be seen. The desert
hare may sometimes be found during
a stroll into the eastern desert; and a
sharp eye will often detect a chameleon
on the branch of a tree. Some
of these curious animals are sure to
be offered for sale: they occasionally
thrive well in confinement.
The bend of the river still continues,
and to such an extent that its
course between Korosko and Derr is
S.S.E. This often detains boats for a
considerable time on the way up, as it
is impossible to get on if a N. wind is
blowing.
(W.) Amada, 7 1/2 m. Here, high
up on the sandy bank, is a small but
very elegant Temple of considerable
antiquity. The names found on it
are those of Osirtasen III., probably
the founder, Thothmes III., Amenhotep
II., and Thothmes IV. It consists
of a portico, a transverse corridor,
and three inner chambers, the central
one of which is the adytum. The
sculptures on the walls are as remarkable
for the beauty of their style
as for the wonderful way in which, in
many places, the colouring has been
preserved. This is no doubt owing
to the unintentional aid of the early
Christians, who here, as in many other
places, covered the sculptures with
mud and mortar to conceal them from
sight, and thus protected them from
the ravages of time. Unfortunately
the temple is so blocked up with sand,
that it is sometimes difficult to get in.
and candles are required in order to
see the sculptures.
The View from the roof of the
temple down the reach of the river
towards Korosko is very beautiful:
the belt of palms on the right bank,
backed by a picturesque ridge of black
hills, with the blue river separating
them from the golden sands of the left
bank, form one of the prettiest bits of
landscape on the Nile. It is a spot
from which to see to perfection one of
the splendid sunsets that in this part
of Nubia excel in softness of tone and
gorgeousness of colouring even those
of Egypt, beautiful as they nearly
always are.
(W.) Tomas.—Many of the Berber
servants in Cairo come from this
place.
(E.) Derr or Dayr, 4 m. A village of
1000 inhab. At the back of the town,
on the edge of the desert, is a rock-cut
Temple of no great size, the total depth
being only 110 ft. It is of the time
of Rameses II., but the sculptures are
not worthy of that epoch. They are
now, too, very much mutilated. In
the area was a battle-scene; but little
now remains, except the imperfect
traces of chariots and horses, and
some confused figures. On the wall
of the temple the king is represented,
in the presence of Amen-ra, slaying
the prisoners he has taken, and accompanied
by a lion; and on the
opposite side the lion seizes one of
the falling captives as he is held by
the victorious monarch. At the upper
end of the sanctuary is a niche which
contained four sitting figures.
Ra was the chief deity of the sanctuary,
from whom the ancient town
received the name of Ei-ra, “the
Abode of the Sun;” and we find that
this “temple of Rameses” was also
considered under the special protection
of Amen-ra, and of Thoth. Ptah
likewise held a distinguished place
among the contemplar gods.
It is worthy of remark that all the
temples between the two cataracts,
except Derr, Ibreem, and Feráyg, are
situated on the W. side of the Nile;
and, instead of lying on the arable
land, are all built on the sandy plain,
or hewn in the rock. This was, doubtless,
owing to their keeping the small
portion of land they possessed for cultivation,
while the towns and temples

occupied what could be of no utility
to the inhabitants.
The name of Derr is derived from
the “convent” of the old Christian
inhabitants. It afterwards belonged
to the Kashefs of Sultan Selim, whose
descendants ruled the country till its
reduction by Mohammed Ali, and
whose family still remains there; and
the chief people of Derr pride themselves
on their Turkish origin, and
the fair complexion which distinguishes
them from the other Nubians.
The sandbanks in front of Derr arc
much frequented by crocodiles.
After leaving Derr, the aspect of
the river-banks is much less bare.
The strip of soil is broader here than
anywhere in Nubia, and nowhere is it
cultivated with more care. The sakeeyehs
are innumerable. There is one
at nearly every 100 yards, and where
the banks are high, there are often
two or three one above the other. The
noise made by these machines, which
go night and day, is something astounding.
They are never greased,
and turn round with one constant
shrill shriek or dull groan, according
as the wood is new or old.
(E.) On the road from Derr to
Ibreem, inland, is a grotto cut in the
rock, called El-Dooknesra, opposite
Gattey, with sculptures of old time;
and on the W. bank, above Gezeeret
Gattey
, is a small tomb, inland in the
desert, cut in a rock of pyramidal
form, which bears the name of Rameses
V. and his queen Nefertari.
The person of the tomb was one
“Poëri, a royal son of Cush,” who is
represented doing homage to the
Egyptian Pharaoh.
Before reaching Ibreem the river
becomes very broad, and enormous
sandbanks stretch over a large expanse,
dividing the river into many
narrow channels.
(E.) Ibreem, 13 m., is situated on a
lofty cliff, commanding the river, as
well as the road by land, and is the
supposed site of Primis Parva. It
contains no remains of antiquity, except
part of the ancient wall on the S.
side, and a building, apparently also
of Roman date, in the interior, towards
the N. side. The latter is built of
stone, the lower part of large, the
upper of small, blocks. Over the door
is the Egyptian cornice, and a projecting
slab intended for the globe
and asps: and in the face of the front
wall is a perpendicular recess, similar
to those in Egyptian temples for fixing
the flag-staffs on festivals. In
front of this is a square pit, and at its
mouth lies the capital of a Corinthian
column of Roman time. The blocks
used in building the outer wall were
taken from more ancient monuments.
Some of them bear the name of Tirhakah,
the Ethiopian king, who ruled
Egypt as well as his own country, 700
B.C., and whose Ethiopian capital was
Napata, now El-Barkal.
It is probable that the Romans,
finding the position of Ibreem so well
adapted for the defence of their territories,
stationed a garrison there as an
advanced post, and that the wall is a
part of their fortified works. It was
in later times fixed upon by Sultan
Selim as one of the places peculiarly
adapted for a permanent station of the
troops left by him to keep the Nubians
in check; and the descendants of
Sultan Selim's Turks remained there
till expelled from it by the Memlooks
(or Ghooz), on their way to Shendy,
in 1811. It is well worth climbing to
the top of the hill for the sake of the
View.
In the rock beneath Ibreem are
some small painted grottos, bearing
the names of Thothmes I. and III., of
Amonhotep II. and of Rameses II.,
with statues in high relief at their
upper end.
About half-way from Ibreem to
Bostán are a mound and a stela,
about 6 ft. high, with hieroglyphics.
Bostán is the Turkish name for
“garden,” and was probably given it
by the soldiers of Sultan Selim.
A short way beyond it at Toshka,
Tushka
, or Tosko (the Nubian word
signifying “three”), are two reefs of
rocks, stretching across the Nile, and
nearly closing the passage in the
month of May, when the river is low.
They form a complete weir, and would

be very dangerous to a boat coming
down the stream without a pilot.
After passing Tosko the river in
many places flows literally through
the desert. There is no cultivation
on either bank. But the aspect of the
E. bank is quite different from that of
the W.: bleak, black, and weird-looking,
the former lacks the golden sands
which brighten up the Libyan desert,
and clothe its valleys and hill-sides.
(W.) Aboo Simbel, 34 m., or, as it is
sometimes, and more correctly, called,
Ipsambool. Here are the most interesting
remains met with in Nubia,
and, excepting Thebes and the Pyramids,
throughout the whole valley of
the Nile. It has two temples hewn
in the gritstone rock, both of the
time of Rameses II.; which, besides
their grandeur, contain highly-finished
sculptures, and throw great light on
the history of that conqueror.
Candles will be necessary for seeing
the sculptures in these temples: but
travellers should on no account allow
torches to be used; not only do they
blacken the sculptures, but they render
the atmosphere inside the temples
so stifling and offensive, that if three
or four parties follow one another it
becomes barely possible to breathe.
Magnesium wire is the best thing to
use in all cases where a strong light
is required for seeing the general
effect.
The small Temple of Athor is excavated
in the perpendicular side of the
rock, and is the first arrived at from
the N. The façade is adorned with
several statues in prominent relief of
the king and the deities. The interior
is divided into a hall of six
square pillars bearing the head of
Athor, a transverse corridor, with a
small chamber at each extremity, and
an adytum, in which the goddess
Athor is represented under the form
of the sacred cow, her emblem, which
also occurs in the pictures on the
wall. Her title here is “Lady of
Aboshek” (Aboccis), the ancient
name of Aboo Simbel which, being in
the country of the Ethiopians, is
followed in the hieroglyphies by
the sign signifying “foreign land.”
Among the contemplar deities are
Ra, Amen-ra, Isis, and Ptah; and
Kneph, Sáté, and Anoukæ, the triad
of the Cataracts. The monarch is
frequently accompanied by his queen
Nefertari. The total depth of this
excavation is about 90 ft. from the
door.
The Great Temple is a little to
the S.
Exterior,—It also is excavated in
the rock, the surface of which has
been cut away so as to form a gigantic
façade, more than 100 feet high,
and nearly 100 wide. It does not
directly face the river, but looks
across it in an oblique direction
northwards. The cornice formed by
22 seated cynocephali is surmounted
by a frieze, on which is the dedicatory
inscription, and in a niche over the
entrance is a large statue of the sungod
Ra, the divinity of the temple
and the protector of the place, to
whom Rameses II., the founder of
the temple, is offering a figure of
Truth.
But the wonder and marvel of this
stupendous façade are the four gigantic
statues which adorn it, the most
beautiful of all Egyptian colossi.
They represent Rameses II. They
are seated on thrones attached to the
rock, and the faces of some of them,
which are fortunately well preserved,
evince a beauty of expression, the
more striking as it is unlooked for in
statues of such dimensions. Their
total height is about 66 ft. without
the pedestal, the proportion being low,
or only six heads. The ear measures
3 ft. 5 in.: forefinger (i.e. to the fork
of middle finger), 3 ft.; from inner
side of elbow-joint to end of middle
finger, 15 ft., &c. The head of one
of the statues is completely broken
off, but the others are tolerably intact.
On the leg of the first, to the left as
you approach the door of the temple,
is the curious Greek inscription of
the Ionian and Carian soldiers of
Psammetichus, first discovered by Mr.
Bankes and Mr. Salt, as well as some
interesting hieroglyphic tablets. This
is one of a series of most interesting

inscriptions, of which some are in
Greek, some in Phænician, and others
in an alphabet supposed to be Carian.
The Greek inscription is of very
great interest upon several accounts.
It appears to have been written by
the troops sent by the Egyptian king
after the deserters, who, to the number
of 240,000, are said by Herodotus
to have left the service of Psammetichus
because they had been stationed
in garrison at Syene for three years
without being relieved, and to have
settled in Ethiopia. It is in an early
style of Greek, with a rude indication
of the long vowels, the more remarkable
as it dates more than 100 years
before Simonides. These Greek inscriptions
are probably the oldest
existing to which a date can be given,
and have been of the greatest use in
the study of the history of the Greek
alphabet. They were written in the
7th century B.C. The letters most
resemble the Ionian form of the
alphabet. Taylor, in his work on

Plan and Section of the Great Temple of Aboo Simbel.

“The Alphabet,” gives a facsimile of
one of the inscriptions.
Besides this inscription are others,
written by Greeks who probably
visited the place at a later time;
as “Theopompus, the son of Plato;”
“Ptolemy, the son of Timostratus;”
Ktesibius, Telephus, and others. There
are also some Phænician inscriptions
on the same colossus.
Interior.—The interior was formerly
quite closed by the sand that
pours down from the hills above.
Burckhardt was the first to notice the
existence of this wonderful temple;
and it was afterwards in 1817 visited
by Belzoni, Captains Irby and Mangles,
and Mr. Beechey, who resolved
to clear the entrance, and succeeding
in doing so after a hard fortnight's
work. The sand quickly closed in,
but their labours enabled others to
penetrate without much difficulty.
In 1869 the façade and the interior
were completely cleared of sand.
We pass through the entrance (A)

into a large Hall (B) supported by 8
Osiride columns, Each of the figures
attached to these columns is, without
the cap and pedestal, nearly 18 ft.
high; their other dimensions are, from
the shoulder to the elbow, 4 ft. 6 in.;
from the elbow to the wrist, 4 ft. 3 in.;
from the nose to the chin, 8 in.;
the ear, 133/4 in.; the nose, about 10
in.; the face, nearly 2 ft.; and the
total height, without the cap and
pedestal, 17 ft. 8 in.
The sculptures on the walls are
chiefly historical subjects relating to
the conquests of Rameses II. A
large tablet, containing the date of
his first year, extends over great part
of the N. wall: and another, between
the two last pillars on the opposite
side of this hall, of his 35th year, has
been added long after the temple
was completed. The battle-scenes are
very interesting. Among the various
subjects are the arks of the Egyptians,
which they carried with them in their
foreign expeditions. The subjects on
the S. wall are particularly spirited.
A charioteer, just bending his bow,
with the reins tied round his waist,
is full of life.
From this hall we pass into another
(e) supported by 4 square columns, on
which and on the walls are depicted
religious subjects, among them the
procession of the sacred bark. Three
doors lead from this hall into a third
(D) covered with similar scenes, out
of which open three rooms. The
centre is the sanctuary (E), with an
altar in the middle, and at the end
four seated figures, the first of which
to the right is Horns, and then come
Rameses himself, Amen, and last
Ptah. Eight other rooms open out of
the large Hall, but they are very
irregularly excavated; some of them
have lofty benches projecting from
the walls.
The total depth of this excavation,
from the door, is about 200 ft., without
the colossi and slope of the
facade.
A short distance to the S. of the
large temple are some hieroglyphic
tablets on the rock, bearing the date
of the 38th year of the same Rameses.
In 1874, a party, which included
Miss A. B. Edwards the authoress,
and Mr. A. Macallum the artist, discovered
to the S. of the Great Temple
a rock-cut chamber, 21 ft. by 14 ft. in
width, elaborately sculptured and
painted, with inscriptions by Rameses
II. “This chamber is preceded by
the ruins of a vaulted atrium, in sundried
brickwork, and adjoins the
remains of what would appear to be a
massive wall or pylon, which contains
a staircase terminating in an arched
doorway leading to the vaulted atrium
before mentioned.” The bones of a
woman and child, evidently a Nubian
interment, were found in it. The
sculptures and inscriptions relate
chiefly to the worship of Amen-ra by
Rameses II., and are in excellent
preservation, with much of the colour
quite fresh. Some of the inscriptions
are devoted to Thoth, the god of
letters, and it has been conjectured
that the grotto was the library of the
adjoining temple. The greater part
is already covered up with sand.
It is a toilsome climb through the
sand to the top of the cliff above the
statues, but the View is a very fine
one.
(E.) Nearly opposite Aboo Simbel
is Feräyg, a small excavated temple,
consisting of a hall, supported by four
columns, two side chambers or wings,
and an adytum. It has the name and
sculptures of the successor of Amenhotep
III., and was dedicated to
Amen-ra and Kneph. At a later time
it became a Christian Church, for
which its cruciform plan was probably
thought particularly appropriate. On
the ceiling are paintings of our
Saviour with a glory, and raised hand
in act of blessing St. George, who is
spearing the dragon. In the sanctuary
are two sedilia.
(E.) Close to the S. of Gebel Addeh,
on a conical hill called Gebel esh-Shems
(“Hill of the Sun”), and a little way
above Feráyg, are some tablets, and a
very old tomb in the rock. In a niche
is the name of a king, probably one of
the XIIIth Dynasty, who is seated
with Anubis, Savak, and Anouké.

receiving the adoration of a “royal
son of Cush.” The king's prenomen
reads Merkara. There is also a grotto
with an illegible name of a king, and
another prince of Cush, or Ethiopia;
with other hieroglyphics on the rock,
having the name of an individual
called Thothmes.
(W.) Faras, or Farras, on the W.
bank, is supposed to be the Phthuris
of Pliny; and, from the many sculptured
blocks and columns there, it
is evident that some ancient town
existed on that spot; though, judging
from the style, they appear to belong
to a Roman rather than an Egyptian
epoch.
A little to the S. is a small grotto
with hieroglyphics of the time of
Rameses II.; and in the hills to the
westward are some tombs hewn in
the rock with several Coptic inscriptions,
from one of which bearing the
name of Diocletian, it seems that they
served as places of refuge during
some of the early persecutions of the
Christians. They swarm with bats.
To the S.W. are ruins of baked
brick, with stone columns, of the low
ages.
At Serra are the remains of what
was once perhaps a quay; but there
are no ruins of any ancient town in
the vicinity, though it also lays claim
to the site of Phthuris. There are
some fine reaches in the river between
Aboo Simbel and Wády Halfah, but
the banks are tame and uninteresting.
(E.) Wáidy Halfah, 40 m. A large
village, lying scattered among a thick
belt of palms. Numerous sandbanks
intervene between it and the deep
river-channel, so that dahabeeyehs
have to moor some way from the bank.
In the plain behind the village are
some curious wells with sakeeyehs.
On the W. bank opposite Wády
Halfah are the vestiges of three buildings.
One is a simple square of
stone, without sculpture; another has
several stone pillars, the walls being
of brick; but the third has been
ornamented with a number of columns,
parts of which still remain. Sufficient,
however, still exists to tell us that
it was an ancient Egyptian building;
and that it was, at least originally,
commenced by the 3rd and 4th
Thothmes, and apparently dedicated
to Kneph.
Wády Halfah has acquired a greater
interest in recent years from having
been the base of operations for the
expedition which was sent under the
command of Lord Wolseley in the
autumn of 1884, to relieve General
Gordon in Khartoom. Unfortunately
it started too late to effect its object,
and failed to reach Khartoom before
the city fell into the hands of the
Dervishes. The failure to reach
Khartoom was followed by the withdrawal
of the English troops from the
Soudan, and the abandonment of the
province of Dongola. At present
Wády Halfah is held by troops of the
Egyptian army only. It is the extreme
southern frontier of Egypt, and travellers
cannot proceed further up the
Nile. When one considers the position
of affairs now, and calls to mind the
great difference to what it was five
years ago, it is impossible not to regret
the decision of the English Government
to abandon the Soudan.
It will be advisable for travellers to
ascertain from the military commandant
at Halfah, how far it is safe to
go up the banks of the Nile.
The Second Cataract.—The only
thing that makes it worth while to
come the additional 40 miles from
Aboo Simbel to Wády Halfah is the
view of the Second Cataract to be
obtained from the rock of Abooseer.
It is situate on the W. bank, about
5 or 6 miles above Wády Halfah. It
is rather a fatiguing walk, owing to
the loose sand, but donkeys can be procured
from the village. The Second
Cataract is perhaps less interesting
than the First, but more extensive,
being a succession of rapids, which
occupy a space of several miles, called
Batn el-Hágar, “the Belly of Stone.”
On the W. bank, just below this rocky
bed, is the high cliff of Abooseer,
from which there is a fine and commanding
view of the falls; and this
is the usual ultima Thule of Egyptian
travellers. The 2nd Cataract is impassable
for boats, except at one

season of the year, during the high
Nile; and the same impediments
occur at the various rapids above it.
From this cliff is a grand bird's-eye
view of the cataract, with its numerous
black shining rocks dividing the river
into endless channels, and the Nile
spreading out to a considerable
breadth. Southwards the view extends
for a long distance, amongst the
plains of sand and the ranges of hills
which stretch away into the horizon,
while here and there the Nile may be
seen, like a silver thread, running
through the dreary waste. Two
mountains on the horizon mark the
road to Dongola.
The Rock of Abooseer is a veritable
Livre des Voyageurs, and custom sanctions
here, as innocent and not without
a certain interest of its own, a
practice which good taste and common
sense alike condemn most strongly,
when indulged in to the injury of
priceless monuments of antiquity and
works of art.
While the traveller is absent at
Abooseer, the dahabeeyeh is prepared
for its downward journey. The big
yard and sail (trinkeet) are taken down
and fastened above the deck, and the
small yard and sail (balakóon) hoisted
on the mainmast, the oars are all out
and tied to the tholes, and many of
the deck planks taken up to make
room for the rowers' legs. The result
is that the graceful dahabeeyeh is
turned into a junk-like barge.
Going down the river, the sailors
row, if it is calm; if the wind is contrary,
the boat is turned broadside to
the stream, and floats at about the
rate of a mile or two an hour, according
to the respectively opposing
strengths of wind and water. Sometimes,
of course, the wind is so violent
that no progress can be made, and
there is nothing for it but to go into
the bank and stop. With a favouring
S. wind the small sail is made use of.
Travellers by Messrs. Cook's steamers
are allowed a day at Wády Halfah,
which is quite sufficient to see that
place. The steamer stops at Aboo
Simbel on the way back to Assooán,
giving time to visit the temples.

[Back to top]


551

GENERAL INDEX.


552


553


554


555


556


557


558


560


561


562


MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER,
1889-90.

CONTENTS.
PAGE
GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS:—J. & R. McCRACKEN 3
RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES:
DUBLIN AND GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY 3
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY 4
GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS—ROYAL ROUTE 5
GLASGOW, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARDIFF, &c. 4
MESSAGERIES MARITIMES 2
NORDDEU SCHER LLOYD 51
HOTELS AND MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS.
PAGE
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE 5
ALGIERS 5
AMIENS 5,6
AMSTERDAM 6
ANGERS 6
ANTWERP 6
ATHENS 6
AVIGNON 7
AVRANCHES 6
BADEN-BADEN 7
BASLE 8
BAYEUX 7, 8
BAYONNE 8
BELFAST 8
BERLIN 7, 8, 9
BIARRITZ 9
BLOIS 9
BONN 10
BORDIGHERA 10
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER 10
BRUNSWICK 10
BRUSSELS 11
BUXTON 11
CAEN 11
CANNES 13
CAIRO 12, 13
CAPRI 15
CARLSBAD 14
CHERBOURG 14
CHESTER 14
COBLENTZ 15
COLOGNE 15, 16
CONSTANCE 13
COPENHAGEN 15
CUXHAYHN 15
DINANT 17
DRESDEN 17
EISENACH 17
EMS 17, 18
ENGELBERG 18
FRANKFORT 19
FRANZNSBAD 19
FREUDENSTADT 19
GENEVA 19, 20
GENOA 20, 21
GIJON 21
GMUNDEN 21
GRENOBLE 20
HAGUE (THE) 21
HAMBURG 22
HANOVER 22
HARROGATE 22
HAVRE 22
HEIDELBERG 23
HILDESHEIM 23
HOMBURG 23, 24
HYERES 24
ILFRACOMBE 24
INNSBRUCK 25
INTERLAKEN 23, 24, 26
KARLSRUHE 27
KILLARNEY 27
KISSINGEN 27
KREUZNACH 27
LEAMINGTON 27
LE MANS 27
LILLE 27
LIMOGES 27
LISBON 28
LLANGOLLEN 27
LONDON 28, 29, 52
LUCERNE 30, 31
LUCHON 31
LUGANO 31
LYNTON 31
LYONS 31
MACON 32
MALAGA 32
MALMÖ 32
MARIENBAD 32
MARSEILLES 33
MAYENCE 32
MENTONE 34
MERAN 33
MILAN 33
MOSCOW 34
MUNICH 34, 35
NANTES 35
NAPLES 35
NEUCHATEL 37
NEUHAUSEN 36
NICE 37
NUREMBERG 37
OSPEDALETTI 37
OSTEND 37
PALERMO 38
PAU 38
PISA 37, 38
PLYMOUTH 39
POITIERS 39
RENNES 39
RHEIMS 39
RIGI 39
ROME 40
ROUEN 39
SALISBURY 40
SALZBURG 40
SAUMUR 40
SCHWALBACH 41
SENDIG-SCHANDAU 41
SENS 40
SPA 41
STOCKHOLM 41
ST. GERVAIS 43
ST. PETERSBURG 43
STRASBOURG 43, 44
STUTTGART 44
THUN 44
TOULOUSE 45
TOURS 45
URIAGE-LES-BAINS 20
VALENCIA 45
VENICE 46
VERONA 46
VICHY 47
VIENNA 47, 48, 49
WIESBADEN 49, 50
WILDBAD 50
WURZBURG 49
ZURICH 50

2

COMPAGNIE
MESSAGERIES MARITIMES.
FRENCH POSTAL STEAMERS.
FROM MARSEILLES TO
AUSTRALIA AND NEW CALEDONIA.
On the 1st of every month for Mahé (Seychelles) King George's Sound,
Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Noumea, transhipping at Mahé for Reunion
and Mauritius.
EAST COAST OF AFRICA.
On the 12th of every month for Port-Saïd, Suez, Obock, Aden, Zanzibar,
Mayotte, Nossi-be (branch line for the West Coast of Madagascar), Diego-Suarez, St. Marie, Tamatave, Reunion and Mauritius.
CHINA AND JAPAN.
Every alternate Saturday on and after 5th May for Alexandria, Port-Saïd,
Suez, Aden, Colombo, Singapore, Saïgon (branch line for Quin-hon,
Tourane, Haï-phong), Hong-Kong, Shang-haï, Kobe and Yokohama.
CORRESPONDING EVERY MONTH.
KURRACHEE, BOMBAY.
Branch line from Aden to Kurrachee and Bombay corresponding with the
East Coast of Africa and Australian lines.
MEDITERRANEAN.
For Constantinople and Odessa every other Saturday (on and after 20th
April).
Constantinople and Black Sea ports every other Saturday (on and after
13th April).
Alexandria, Port-Said, Syrian Ports, Smyrna, Piræus (on and after 12th
April).
Piræus, Smyrna, Syrian Ports, Port-Said, Alexandria (on and after 19th
April).
LONDON.
Weekly from Marseilles to Havre and London (merchandise only).
FROM BORDEAUX TO
ATLANTIC OCEAN.
1° On the 5th of each month for Lisbon, Dakar, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo
and Buenos Ayres.
2° On the 20th of every month for Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Pernambuco,
Bahia, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo and Buenos Ayres.
3° On the 28th of each month (steerage passengers and merchandise
only) for Las Palmas, Montevideo, Buenos Ayres and Rosario (calling
occasionally at Passages, Marino, Corunna and Vigo).
OFFICES PARIS: 1, RUE VIGNON.
MARSEILLES: 16, RUE CANNEDIERE.
BORDEAUX: 20, ALLÉES d'ORLEANS.

3

MESSRS. J. & R. McCRACKEN,
38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STREET, LONDON, E.C.,
AGENTS BY APPOINTMENT TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY,
AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART,
WINE MERCHANTS,
GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, AND AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE
RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, ETC.,
FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD,
Beg to say that they are prepared to give through inclusive rates to all parts of the Continent.
Their old-established connections with the best Foreign Firms enable them to offer great
facilities to their clients. J. & R. McC. have the advantage of
DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES,
Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owner's
absence, at most moderate rates of rent.
Special arrangements have been made for the convenience of American Clients.
Parties favouring J. and R. McC. with their Consignments are requested to be particular
in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECT by Post, and also to forward their Keys
with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still
EXAMINED by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages cleared at all the Outports,
such as Liverpool, &c., but all Letters, Bills of Lading, and Keys, to be addressed to
38, QUEEN STREET, LONDON, E.C.
Insurances effected. Orders for all descriptions of goods executed. Agency business of
every kind undertaken on best terms.
WINE DEPARTMENT.
Wines and Spirits shipped, duty free, to all parts of the World. Detailed Price Lists
of a very large Stock on application.
Sole Agents for the Swiss Champagne of Messrs. Bouvier Frères, Neuchâtel.
DUBLIN AND GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY.
The Company's First-Class Saloon Paddle Steamers,
Duke of Argyll, Duke of Leinster, Lord Gough, and the First-Class
Serew Steamer General Gordon, or other Steamers,
Are intended to Sail as per Monthly Sailing Bills, unless prevented by any unforeseen
occurrence, from
DUBLIN TO GLASGOW
Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY,
THURSDAY
and SATURDAY. From
GLASGOW TO DUBLIN
Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY,
THURSDAY
and SATURDAY, calling at Greenock both ways, except Saturday Boat
from Dublin, which proceeds direct to Glasgow.
£ s. d.
Cabin Fare (including Steward's
Fees)
0 15 0
Return Tickets (6 Months) 1 2 6
Steerage 0 6 0
Return Tickets (6 Months) 0 10 0
Single Ticket to Edinburgh 1 0 0
Return Ticket to Edinburgh
(2 Months)
1 10 0
Single Ticket to Edinburgh
(3rd Class and Deck)
0 8 6
Return Ticket to Edinburgh
(2 Months) (3rd Class and
Deck)
0 14 0
Passengers can travel between Greenock and Edinburgh Direct, without change of
carriage, by either Caledonian or North British Railway, according to the Ticket they hold.
The Caledonian Railway Stations are Cathcart Street, Greenock; and Prince's Street,
Edinburgh. North British Company's—Lyndoch Street, Greenock; and Haymarket and
Waverley Stations, Edinburgh.
☞ Passengers are also Booked Wellington Street, Through between Dublin and the
principal Railway Stations in Scotland.
AGENTS.—HENRY LAMONT, 70, Wellington Street, Glasgow. JAMES LITTLE & Co.,
Excise Buildings, Greenock.
DUBLIN OFFICES.—Booking Offices for Passengers—1, Eden Quay; where
Berths can be secured up to 2 o'clock p.m., on day of Sailing.
CHIEF OFFICE AND STORES.—71, NORTH WALL.
Further particulars, Monthly Bills, &c., on application to A. TAYLOR, Secretary.
B. MANN, General Manager.

4

GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
From and to Irongate and St. Ktherínds Wharf, near the Tver.
LONDON AND CÖLOGNE.For departures see Daily Papers. FARES—London to Boulogne
10s., or 7s. 6d: Return, 15s. or 11s. 3d.
LONDON AND OSTEND.—From London—Wednesday and Sunday. — From Ostend —
Tuesday and Friday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 10s. or 7s. 6d. Return, 15s. or 11s. 3d.
LONDON AND ANTWERP.—Twice a week. See Time-tables.
LONDON AND HAMBURG.Vid Thames. Every Thursday and Saturday. From Hamburg—
Monday and Thursday or Friday. Vid Harwich Wednesday and Saturday from each end.
FARES, Vid Thames. Chief Cabin, 30s. and 20s. Return Tickets, 4's. and 31s.
FARES, Vid Harwich (Parkesion Quay). 1st Class Rail and Saloon. Single, 37s. 6d.
Return, 56s. 3d. 2nd Class Rail and Saloon. Single, 35s. 9d. Return, 53s. 9d. 2nd Class Rail and Fore
Cabin. Single, 25s. 9d. Return, 8s. 9d.
LONDON AND BORDEAUX.—Every Friday. From Bordeaux—Every Friday, FARES,
Chief Cabin, 10s. and 35s. Return Tickets, Chief Cabin, 80s. and 60s.
LONDON AND ITALY.—Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo.—Every
alternate Wednesday. Apply at Chief Office for further particulars.
LONDON AND OPORTO.—Every three weeks. FARES, 34s., Chief Cabin only; Ladies, 10s. extra.
LONDON AND EDINBURGH (GRANTON PIXR).—Every Wednesday and Saturday. From
Edinburgh (Granton Pier)—Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 22s.; Fore Cabin, 16s.
Return, 34s. and 24s. 6d. Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10s.
LONDON AND HULL.“—Every Wednesday and Saturday, at morn. From Hull—Every Wednesday
and Saturday. FARES, Saloon, 10s.; Fore Cabin, 7s. Return Tickets, 15s. and 11s.
Steward's Fees are included in above Fares and Return Tickets are available for two months, excepting on
the Edinburgh Station, where they are available for twelve months.
* Summer Service only.
YARMOUTH AND MARGATE AND RAMSGATE.—From London Bridge Wharf. During
the summer there are special Passenger Services.
For Bank Holiday arrangements see Special Advertisements.
During the season Excursion Tickets to the near Continental Ports are issued at reduced fares.
For further particulars apply to the Secretary, 55, Great Tower Street, London, E.C., er
14, Waterloo Place, S.W.
GLASGOW and BRISTOL CHANNEL.
SPLENDID SEA TRIPS.
The First-Class Steamers, Humber, Medway, Solway, Avon,
Severn
, will Sail as under (calling at Greenock, Prince a Pier.)
Glasgow to Bristol viâ Belfast every Monday and Thursday at 2 p.m.
Glasgow to Cardiff and Swansea viâ Belfast every Friday at 2 p.m.
Glasgow to Newport viâ Belfast and Cardiff every alternate Friday at 2 p.m.
Bristol to Glasgow viâ Belfast every Monday and Thursday evening.
Cardiff to Glasgow viâ Swansea and Belfast every Monday p.m. tide.
Swansea to Glasgow viâ Belfast every Wednesday evening.
Newport to Glasgow viâ Swansea and Belfast every alternate Tuesday p.m. tide.
These Steamers have very superior accommodation for passengers, and afford a
favourable opportunity for making excursions from West of England to Ireland and
Scotland.
Fares—Glasgow:—Cabin, 20s. Steerage, 12s. 6d.
Fares—Belfast:—Cabin, 17s. 6d. Steerage, 10s.
Returns issued at Fare and Half, available for Two Months, and can be used
to return from any of the Ports.
Circular Tour can be made via London and East Coast by Carron Co.'s Steamers,
from Grangemouth; London and Edinburgh Shipping Co.'s Steamers from Leith; or,
General Steam Navigation Co.'s Steamers from Granton, enabling Tourists to rail
both by East and West Coast.
Fare, 35s., exclusive of Fares for Railway Parts of Journey.
The Route may be reversed. Guide Books and further Particulars on application to—
WILLIAM SLOAN & CO., S, Gordon Street, Glasgow.

5

SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND.
GLASGOW and the HIGHLANDS.
THE ROYAL ROUTE.
The Royal Mall Steamers—Grenadier, Claymore, Columba, Iona, Fusilier,
Mountaineer, Clansman, Glencoe, Chevalier, Pioneer, Clydesdale, Glengarry,
Gondolier, Cavalier, Staffa, Linnet, Fingal, Lochiel, Islay, Inverary Castle,
Gladiator, Udea, Countess, Lochness, Ethel, Handa, Mabel, Loand, Pelican,
Falcon, Texa, and Margaret
, Sail during the Season for ISLAY, LOCHAWE, OBAN,
FORT-WILLIAM, INVERNESS, STAFFA, IONA, GLENCOE, TOBERMORY, PORTREE,
STROME-FERRY, GAIRLOCH, LOCH MAREE, ULLAPOOL, LOCHINVER,
STORNOWAY, &c.; affording Tourists an opportunity of visiting the magnificent
Scenery of Lochawe, Glencoe, the Cuchullin Hills, Loch Scavaig. Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree,
Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, The Trossachs, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona.
Official Guide Book, 3d. Illustrated, 6d.; cloth gilt, 1s. Time-Bills, with Map and Tourist
Fares, free by post, from the owner. DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119, Hope Street, Glasgow.
AIX - LA - CHAPELLE.
GRAND MONARQUE HOTEL.
Close by the Railway Stations and the Baths.
NUELLEN'S HOTEL.
Opposite the Fountain “Eliza.”
KAISERBAD HOTEL (built in 1865).
The principal Spring rises in the Hotel itself.
NEUBAD HOTEL.
(Renovated in 1879.)
Mr. G. F. DREMEL is the Proprietor of these four hotels of European reputation. The combination in
one hand of Four Establishments of such magnitude, enables Mr. Dremel to afford suitable accommodation
to all comers; to visitors to whom money is no object, as well as to parties desirous of living at a moderate
rate of expense. “Excellent Hotels,” vide Murray.
ALGIERS. MUSTAPHA - SUPERIOR.
Sanitary Station.
Hôtel d'Orient and Hôtel Continental.
First-class Houses. Full south. Situated in a large park and pine
forest. Magnificent views. Omnibus in attendance at the arrival of
steamers.
LAWN TENNIS.
REICHERTER & HILDENBRAND, Proprietors.
AMIENS.
GRAND HÔTEL DU RHIN,
PLACE ST. DENIS.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, near to the Cathedral and Railway
Station. Much frequented by English and Americans. Spacious
Apartments and airy Bed Rooms. Private and Public Saloons. Warm
Baths. Large Garden. Omnibus to and from each Train. English
Interpreter.
CH. FICHEUX, Proprietor.
AMIENS.
GRAND HÔTEL DE L'UNIVERS.—First-Class, Hotel recently
enlarged, facing St. Denis' Square, near the Railway Station. Three minutes' walk
to the Cathedral. Drawing and Bath Rooms. English Interpreter.
Omnibus of the Hotel at every Train.

6

AMIENS.
HÔTEL DE FRANCE, D'ANGLETERRE, AND DE L'EUROPE.
BRULÉ, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, close to the Cathedral, the Museum, and other Public Buildings.
Having been recently newly furnished, it offers great comfort. Families and Single
Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and Single Rooms.
Omnibus at the Station. English spoken.
AMSTERDAM.
AMSTEL HOTEL.
THIS Magnificent FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is
situated near the Zoological and Botanical
Gardens, the Crystal Palace, Museums, &c. Cheerful
views on the Amstel river. It is provided with
every Comfort, and contains 200 well-furnished
Rooms and Saloons, Reading and Smoking Rooms,
and a special Ladies' Saloon. First-rate Table
and Choice Wines.
Terms Moderate. Lift.
Railway, Telegraph Offices, and Stables attached to the House.
R. SEQUEIRA, jun., Manager.
ANGERS.
GRAND HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS.—Central situation.—
Near the Theatre, the Post and Telegraph
Offices.—Bath rooms. Hydraulic
lift. Moderate Terms.
DRAN AICNÉ, Proprietor.
AVRANCHES.
GRAND HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
Recently reconstructed and newly furnished
throughout with large additions, and every possible
Comfort. Celebrated Cellar. English Papers.
Moderate Prices. Omnibus at Station. Carriages
for Mount St. Michel and Excursions.
A. HOULLFGATTE, Proprietor.
ANTWERP.
HÔTEL ST. ANTOINE.
PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL.
THIS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well-merited
favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished
and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate
Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms; fine Salle à
Manger
, excellent Table d'Hôte and choice Wines.
English, American, and French Papers.
TELEPHONE.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
ATHENS.
HOTEL D'ATTIQUE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL on the Place de la Constitution, facing Royal Palace. Spacious
Apartments and Airy Bedrooms. Prices moderate. Excellent Cuisine. Reduction
for a long residence.

7

BADEN - BADEN.
First-class Establishment, NEAREST CONVERSATION
HOUSE and NEW VAPOUR
BATHS. Now surrounded by ITS
OWN BEAUTIFUL
PARK.
HOLLAND HOTEL
With DEPENDANCE “BEAU SÉJOUR.”
OPEN
ALL THE YEAR
Charges strictly moderate.
Special arrangements for a prolonged stay. Pension.
HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BOTH HOUSES.
A. ROSSLER. Proprietor.
BADEN - BADEN.
HÔTEL DE LA COUR DE BADE.
Badischer Hof.
(Not to be confounded with the Hôtel de la Ville de Bade, opposite the
Railway Station.
)
A FIRST-RATE and large Establishment near the Promenade and
the Conversation Housé, with extensive Gardens, Warm, Mineral, and other Baths,
enjoying a well-merited reputation for its great comfort and attention. It is patronised by
the most distinguished Families.
Manager, Mr. Fr. ZIEGLER.
BADEN - BADEN.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ.
THIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-Class
Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new
Promenade nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths; it
commands the most charming views, and is reputed to be one of the best
Hotels in Germany, Principally frequented by English and American
Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect. Prices moderate.
English and other journals. Beautiful airy Dining Rooms and Public
Rooms.
Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. Sanitary Arrangements perfect.
BAYEUX.
HÔTEL DU LUXEMBOURG.
REPUTED the best. Situated in the centre of the tows, close to the Cathedral and
public buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr.; Dinner, 3 fr. Rooms from 2 fr. Table d'hôte.
Restaurant à la carte. Gardens Billard room. Recreation Ground. Carriages for
Excursions. ENGLISH SPOKEN.
THE
RAILWAYS OF ENGLAND.
By W. M. ACWORTH.
With Fifty Illustrations. 8vo. 14s.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
HANDBOOK DICTIONARY
OF
ENGLISH—FRENCH—GERMAN.
Small pocket volume. Bound. 6s.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.

8

BÂLE.
HOTEL EULER.
FIRST CLASS HOTEL.
Opposite the Central Station.
BASLE.
HÔTEL SCHRIEDER ZUM
DEUTSCHEN HOF.
OPPOSITE the Baden Railway Station.
Comfortable accommodation. Moderate
Charges.
M. ERNE, Proprietor.
BASLE.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF.
FIRST CLASS HOTEL.
Opposite the Central Railway Station.
LAWN TENNIS. GARDEN.
L. E. MÉRIAN.
BAYEUX.
LUXEMBURG HOTEL.
SITUATED in the middle of the Town, is reputed the most comfortable.
With Garden, Gymnastics, Drawing-room, Piano, Coaehes
for Excursions. Moderate Prices. English is spoken.
BAYONNE.
GRAND HOTEL ST. ETIENNE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
Most highly recommended to
Families as being the best in
Bayonne. Aristocratic Hotel.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR FRANCE.
Part I.
NORMANDY, BRITTANY, PYRENEES,
&c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
BELFAST.
THE IMPERIAL HOTEL.
Just Re-decorated and Enlarged. First-Class. Best Situation.
Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers.
W. J. JURY, Proprietor.
BERLIN.
THE KAISERHOF.
Wilhelmsplatz.
Zietenplatz.
THE largest and most commodious First-Class Hotel in Berlin. Situated
in an elegant, quiet, and magnificent part of the city.
Manager. GUSTAVE ARRAS.
BERLIN.
MONOPOL HÔTEL.
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE RAILWAY STATION.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL and Restaurant. Situated opposite the entrance to the Central
Railway Station. Carriages are not necessary. The two staircases from the
Platform of the Station lead to the exit and direct to the Hotel.
200 Salons and Bedrooms from 3 marks and upwards per day,
including Service and Lighting. Electric Light on every floor.
ROSMANITH & SCHAURTÉ.

9

BERLIN.
GRAND HÔTEL DE ROME
UNTER DEN LINDEN 39, opposite the Royal Palace.
THE FINEST AND MOST CENTRAL SITUATION OF BERLIN.
Restaurant, Café, Drawing Room for Ladies. Baths.
Lift. Table d'Hôte. Newspapers in all Languages. Moderate
Charges. No extra charge for Light and Attendance.
HÔTEL DE RUSSIE,
SCHINKELPLATZ No. 1, near to the Imperial Palace.
SPLENDID SITUATION.
THE SAME COMFORT AS IN THE ABOVE HÔTEL.
Proprietor of both Hôtels, ADOLF MÜHLING,
Purveyor to the Imperial and Royal Courts.
BERLIN.
HOTEL ROYAL,
F. LANGE, PROPRITOR.
UNTER DEN LINDEN,
No. 3, WILHELMSTRASSEN-ROKE.
Only a Few Minutes Distance from the
Stadtahnbof Friedrichstrasse.
HANDBOOK—BERKS, BUCKS.
AND OXON.
Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 9s.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
BIARRITZ.
HÔTEL VICTORIA,
GRANDE PLAGE.
THIS new Hotel is built with all the latest improvements of comfort.
Near the British Club, in the centre of all the best Promenade. 100 Rooms and
Saloons. Facing the Sea, and full South. Renowned Cuisine. Moderate Charges.
J. FOURNEAU (from the Hôtel de France).
BLOIS.
GRAND HÔTEL DE BLOIS.
H. GIGNON.
Highly recommended to Strangers.
VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D'HÔTE AND PRIVATE DINNERS.
Apartments for Families. Close to the Castle of Blois.
Comfortable Carriages for visiting Chambord and the Environs.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN.

10

BONN.
GRAND HÔTEL ROYAL.
ON the Banks of the Rhine. European repute. 200 Rooms and Salons.
Situation without equal, facing the Rhine, Seven Mountains and Park. Near the
Landing-place and Railway Station. Extensive English Gardens. Reading and Smoking
Rooms. Ladies' Salons. Arrangements on the most moderate terms for the Winter
Pension. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel.
BORDIGHERA.
HÔTEL ANGST.
First-Class Hotel with every modern comfort, situated in the middle of a large beautiful
garden on the Strada Romana. Sheltered position. Magnificent view. Best drainage-system
by the English Sanitary Co.
Conducted by the Proprietor, A. ANGST (Swiss).
Formerly Grand Hôtel de Bordighera.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
BERRY'S (late ROBERT'S)
English and French Boarding Establishment and Family Hotel,
96, 98, 100, & 102, RUE DE BOSTON,
OPPOSITE the Casino Bathing Establishment, near the Steam Packets and Railway Station, and having
a splendid Sea View from the extensive Gardens of the Hotel. Terms moderate, and special arrangement's
for the Winter Season, by day, week, or month. Single Boarders received. Established 50 years.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
HOTEL DES BAINS ET DE BELLE VUE.
MM. MESUREUR & CO., Proprietors.
FIRST CLASS HOTEL, situated RUE VICTOR HUGO (late Rue de l'Eeu), and on the Port
facing the Railway Station and Steamers.
Hot and Cold Sea Baths and Vapour Paths in the House.
BOULOGNE - SUR - MER.
GRAND HÔTEL CHRISTOL & BRISTOL,
First-class Hotel.
Best Situation in the Town. Highly recommended
for Families and Gentlemen.
Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats.
SAGNIER and F. CHRISTOL, Proprietors.
BOULOGNE - SUR - MER.
HÔTEL DERVAUX,
73 to 80, GRANDE RUE; and 24, RUE DES VIEILLARDS.
THE most healthy part of Boulogne, near the Post Office, English Church, Theatre, and
Market. The Hotel is now carried on by Mr. ALPHONSE DERVAUX, son of the founder.
Arrangements by the day, week, or month. Reduced prices during the winter months.
BRUNSWICK.
HÔTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS.
(HOTEL, GERMAN HOUSE.)
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, GOOD ATTENDANCE, COMFORTABLE.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
ROBERT SCHRADER.

11

BRUSSELS.
GRAND HÔTEL GERNAY.
Moderate Charges. Ancien Propriétaire de l'Hôtel de Portugal à Spa.
This Hotel is close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp,
and Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord.
Baths in the Hotel. Telephone.
BRUSSELS.
HÔTEL MENGELLE
Hydraulic Lift. (RUE ROYALE). Hydraulic Lift.
B. MENGELLE, PROPRIETOR.
THIS large and beautiful First-Class Hotel is situated in the finest and
most healthy part of the Town, near to the Promenades the most frequented, and is
supplied with every modern accommodation and comfort. Table d'Hôte at 6 and 7.15,
five francs. Restaurant à la carte, and at fixed prices, at any hour. Excellent Cuisine
and Choice Wines. The Largest and Finest Dining-Room in the Town.
HYDRAULIC LIFT.
Baths, Smoking Room, Reading Room, Billiard Room.
Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season.
BRUSSELS.
HÔTEL DE LA POSTE,
28, RUE FOSSE AUX LOUPS, NEAR THE PLACE DE LA MONNAIE.
FAMILY HOTEL SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED TO ENGLISH TRAVELLERS.
Omnibus to the Hotel at the Station. English Spoken.
HYACINTHE TILMANS, Proprietor.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE SUÈDE.
FIRST CLASS.
CENTRAL PART OF THE TOWN.
GOOD CUISINE. CHOICE WINES.
VAN OUTSEM.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS.
(CENTRAL.)
First Class. Moderate Prices.
Table d'Hôte, Restaurant, Salon, Smoking
Room, Garden. Omnibus at Station.
LORD BEACONSFIELD'S
“Home Letters” and “Correspondence
with his Sister,”
1830-52. Portrait. Crown
Svo. 2s.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
THE
BUXTON HYDROPATHIC AND WINTER RESIDENCE
(Malvern House),
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
The largest and most complete Hydro in the neighbourhood. Central and Sheltered
situation. Close to Mineral Wells and Baths. Every comfort for Invalids and Visitors.
Sanitary, ventilating, and heating arrangements on the most approved principles.
Two BILLIARD TABLES, SMOKING ROOM, splendidly appointed BALL ROOM.
The BATHS have been wholly refitted with all the most recent appliances, and there
has been added as complete a system of Baths for MASSAGE TREATMENT as engineering
skill has been able to devise.
For terms. etc., apply to the PROPRIETOR.

12

CAEN.
HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE,
Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81.
Situated in the Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the
best Society.
100 Elegantly Furnished and Comfortable Bed Rooms and
Sitting Rooms.
BREAKFASTS AG LA CARTE.
TABLE D'HÔTE BREAKFASTS AT 3 FRANCS
DINNER AT TABLE D'HÔTE, 4 FRANCS.
SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES.
ENGLISH AND SPANISH SPOKEN.
L. MANCEL, Proprietor.
CAIRO, EGYPT.
GRAND NEW HOTEL.
A. MONFERRATO, Proprietor.
This first-class magnificent Hotel is situated in front of the
public garden of Esbekié, and the Theatre of the Opera.
Surrounded by Gardens.
The New Hotel Hotel has been recently newly refurnished, and still
further embellished by numerous alterations to its great advantage.
READING ROOMS, BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS.
HOT AND COLD BATHS ON EVERY FLOOR.
MODERATE PRICES.
Advantageous arrangements for Families. Omnibuses at the arrival of every Train.
THE ESTABLISHMENT IS LIT BY THE ELECTRIC LIGHT.
COOK'S COUPONS ARE ACCEPTED.

13

CAIRO (Egypt).
HOTEL DU NIL.
H. Ch. FRIEDMANN.
CANNES.
HÔTEL BEAU SITE
AND
HÔTEL DE L'ESTÉREL.
BOTH situated at the West End of Cannes, in the midst
of a most splendid Garden, and adjoining Lord Brougham's
property; the healthiest part of the Town.
300 Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms.
Enlarged Drawing Room, separate Reading Room, Smoking
and Billiard Room, with Thurston's Tables.
BATH ROOM. LIFT WITH SAFETY APPARATUS.
THREE LAWN TENNIS COURTS,
CONSIDERED THE FINEST AND LARGEST IN CANNES.
GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor.
CANNES.
HOTEL RICHEMONT
Well situated inland, near St. Paul's Church.
IMMENSE Garden, Lawn Tennis Ground, Gymuasium, Drawing,
Reading and Dining Rooms South, Billiard, Bath Rooms, &c.
Perfect Draluage completed by Mr. RUSSELL, the eminent English
Sanitary Engineer.
ARRANGEMENTS FOR A LONG STAY ON VERY MODERATE TERMS.
ZUST LAURENT (from the Grand Hold, Houlgnte), New Proprietor.

14

CARLSBAD.
ANGER'S HOTEL (BRANCH, RHEIN HOTEL).
THESE Two First-Class Hotels offer special comfort to
English and American Travellers, who will find them
most desirable residences.
Charges Moderate; deservedly recommended.
ENGLISH & AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. BATHS, CARRIAGES, OMNIBUS, LIFT.
Mr. and Mrs. Anger speak English.
CARLSBAD.
HÔTEL GOLDENER SCHILD.
WITH DEPENDENCE (TWO GERMAN MONARCHS).
THIS HOTEL has European celebrity, is very beautifully situated,
with large Garden, and is newly furnished and decorated. Travellers
will find here every comfort at moderate prices. English, French,
and German Newspapers. Open all the year. English Attendance.
F. ROSCHER, Hotelier.
CARLSBAD.
WIESINGER'S HÔTEL NATIONAL,
On the Neven Gartenzeilstrasse. First-Class Hotel. Open all the year.
THIS HOTEL, situated next to the City Park, and only four minutes
from all the Mineral Springs, commands a splendid view of the
Mountains; is recommended to families and travellers in general. Large
Dining Rooms and shady Garden. Good German and French Cooking.
Moderate Charges.
The Proprietor, Ant. Wiesinger, has left his Hotel “Drei Fasanen”
on account of his increasing business in the above Hotel.
CHERBOURG.
CASINO DES BAINS DE MER DE CHERBOURG.
GRAND HÔTEL RESTAURANT.
First-class Establishment. Exceptional Situation. Hot Baths. Hydropathy.
Open from 1st June till 1st October. L. MERTZ, Proprietor.
CHESTER.
THE GROSVENOR HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the CATHEDRAL and other
objects of interest. A Large Coffee Room and Ladies' Drawing Room for the
convenience of Ladies and Families. The Bedrooms are large and handsomely furnished.
Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the Trains
for the use of Visitors to the Hotel. Tariff to be had on application. A Night Porter
in attendance.
DAVID FOSTER, Manager.

15

COBLENTZ.
GIANT HOTEL—HÔTEL DU GÉANT.
THE best situated First-Class Hotel, just opposite the landing-place of
the Steam-boats and Fortress Ehrenbreitstein. Excellent Cuisine and Cellar.
Moderate Changes. Reduction for a long residence.
PROPRIETORS, EISENMANT BROS.
COBLENTZ.
GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
FIRST-CLASS. Commanding a splendid
view of the Rhine and the
Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein.
Moderate Charges.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DISCH.
First-Class House. Near Cathedral and Central
Station. Greatly enlarged, Every comfort found.
200 Rooms with 300 beds. Omnibuses meet every
Train and Steamer. Choice wines for wholesale.
Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light. Coloriferes in
winter.
T. CHRISTOPH, Proprietor.
COLOGNE.
HÔTEL DU DÔME.
THMETZ ERBAN. — This old and excellent House
has been enlarged by an elegant New Building, and
comfortably fitted-up; it is advantageously situated
in the centre of the City, near the Cathedral and
the Central Railway Station. Table d'Hôte 1 and
5 o'clock. Splendid Dining Room, Ladies' Saloon,
Smoking Room, &c. Recommended to English
Tourists. Moderate Charges.
CAPRI.
HÔTEL QUISISANA.
ENGLISH HOUSE.
Recommended by T. L. Brunton, M.D.
Omnibus at the arrival of the Steamers.
Moderate Charges.
CONSTANCE.
HÔTEL AG PENSION KONSTANZERHOF
(ON THE LAKE.)
INSEL HOTEL (ON THE LAKE.)
FIRST-RATE HOTELS.
A. GUTZSCHEBAUCH, Manager.
COPENHAGEN.
HÔTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest class
of English and American Travellers, affords first-rate accommodation
for Families and single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal
Palace, overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table d'Hôte. Private
Dinners. Best attendance. Reading Room. Hot Baths. Lift.
English, French, German and American Newspapers.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. MODERATE CHARGES.
Ladies' Drawing Room. Vienna Coffee House.
CARRIAGES IN THE HOTEL.
R. KLUM, Proprietor.
COPENHAGEN.
HÔTEL PHOENIX.
First-Class Hotel in the Centre of the Town.
CHARGES MODERATE.
N.B.— Patronized by His Majesty the Emperor of Russia
C. E. SÖDRING, Proprietor.
OUXHAVEN (North Sea Bath).
DÖLLE'S HÔTEL BEL VÉDÉR.
E. DULLE, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, newly built with a brilliant view on the Sea
and Port, newly and comfortably fitted up, good Cuisine, Choice Wines, Warm
Sea-Baths in the house. Two minutes from the Railroad Depot, fifteen minutes' to the
new Sea-bathing Establishedmen.
HOTEL CARRIAGE AT THE STEAMBOAT LANDING.

16

COLOGNE ON THE RHINE.
JOHANN MARIA FARINA,
GEGENÜBER DEM JÜLICH'S PLATZ
(Opposite the Jülich's Place).
PURVEYOR TO H.M. QUEEN VICTORIA;
TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES;
TO H. M. WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA;
THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA;
THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC.,
OF THE
ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE,
Which obtained the only price Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris
Exhibition of 1867.
THE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most
part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request
the attention of English travellers to the following statement:—
The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by
my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and is order to be able
to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they procured
themselves a firm of Furina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name,
which is a very common one in Italy.
Person who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne, ought to be particular
to sea that the lables and the bottles have not only my name, Joharm [illeg.] Farina,
but also the additional words, gegenüber dems Jülich's Plats, (that is, opposite the Jülleh's
Place), without addition of any number.
Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against
being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services
to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same houa,
situated opposite the Jü'ich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the
said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where
notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of
the price paid by the purchase, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a
high price and a bad article.
Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters,
commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one,
and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account.
The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my
house, opposite the Jülich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldsmidt
and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balencies, of which the three
bear my name and firm, Johann Maris Furina, Gegenüber dem Jülich's Plats.
The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the
jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the price Medal;
that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855; and received
the only Prise Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Pairs Exhibition of 1867, and in
Operte 1865.
COLOGNE, January, 1889.
JOHANN MARIA FARINA,
GEGENÜBER DEM JÜLICH'S PLATZ.
∵ MESRS. J. & R. M.CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Canoń Street, E.C.,
are my Sole Agents for Great Britain and Ireland.

17

DINANT-SUR-MEUSE.
HOTEL DE LA TECTE D'OR.
ALEXIS DISIÈRE, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS, upon the GRAND PLACE.
Is to be recommended for its comfort.
Pension from 7 francs 50 centimes per day.
MURRAY'S
Handbook of Travel Talk.
ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN,
AND ITALIAN.

16mo. 3s., 6d.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
DRESDEN.
HÔTEL WEBER.
MOST Beautiful and Central Situation. DIRECTLY OPPOSITE the
Picture Gallery, Museums, Royal Opera House, General Post and Telegraph
Office. Lift. Reading Room. Smoking Room and every comfort. ension.
Arrangements on very moderate terms.
DRESDEN.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
THIS First-rate Establishment, situated near the great public
Promenade, and five minutes from the Central Station for
Prague, Vienna, Berlin, Munich, Frankfort, Breslau, combines
comfort with elegance, and has the advantage of possessing a
spacious and beautiful Garden.
TWO SUPERIOR TABLES D'HÔTE DAILY.
PRIVATE DINNERS AT ANY HOUR.
During the Winter, Board and Lodging at very moderate rates.
Mr. WEISS has an extensive Stock of the best Rhenish,
Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Spanish Wines
, and will be most
happy to execute Orders at Wholesale Prices.
Hydraulic Lift.
EISENACH (THURINGIA).
HÔTEL ZUM RAUTENKRANZ.
Most beautiful view on the Wartburg. First and largest Hotel in the City favourably
known for its Moderate Prices, Excellent Cooking, and Choice Wines.
W. OPPERMANN.
EMS - LES - BAINS.
HOTEL AND BATHS—FOUR SEASONS.
FIRST-RATE ESTABLISHMENT.
BATHS, MINERAL SPRINGS, INHALATION ROOMS in the HOTEL.
C. EISENMANN, Proprietor.

18

EMS - LES - BAINS.
THE FOUR TOWERS.
Private Hotel and Bathing Establishment.

Managed since 1843 by the family Becker.

Situated in the centre of the Park, and connected with the Royal Baths.
SUITES OF QUIET AND AIRY APARTMENTS. MODERATE PRICES.
E. BECKER.
ENGELBERG.
THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high) with its
KURHAUS AND HÔTEL SONNENBERG.
THE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand
Alpine scenery, as well as by the curative efficacy of the climate against lung and chest
diseases, coughs, nervous ailments, &c., &c. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recommended
by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG, in the finest
and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable
and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central
place for sketching, botanising, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The
ascent of the Titlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths.
Waterspring 5° R.; 200 Rooms; Pension from 7fr. a day up wards. Because of its so sheltered
situation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Resident English Physician.
English Divine Service.
ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND.
KURHAUS HÔTEL ET PENSION TITLIS.
THIS First Class Hotel, in the best situation of the valley, in the middle
of an extensive garden, has been recently much enlarged and
improved. 200 Beds. Lofty Dining Saloon. Large Saloon de Reunion,
with Veranda: Smoking-Room. Reading-Room. Billiard Salo de
Musik. Lift. Electric Lighting in all Rooms. Bath in the Hotel.
Good attendance, with Moderate Charges.
English Chapel in the garden of the Hotel.
ED. CATTANI, Proprietor.

19

FRANKFORT - ON - MAIN.
P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSORS,
ZEIL, No. 44.
BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS AND CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE.
Chandeliers for Gas and Candles in Glass and Brass.
Correspondent in England, Mr. LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge Row, Cannon St., London, E.C.
Unrivalled Situation.
Home Comforts.
12 Salons. Balconies.
60 Bedrooms.
FRANZENSBAD.
THE KÖNIGSVILLA,
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.
Special Care paid to
Kitchen, Cellar,
and
Attendance.
Under the superintendence of the Proprietor himself, Mr. F. F. KOPP, late of
“Cosmopolitan Hotel,” Nice.
FREUDENSTADT. (2,600 feet above sea.)
BLACK FOREST HOTEL.
RAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART, OFFENBURG, STRASSBURG.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated on a charming hill, and surrounded by a very
extensive and beautiful Park, 60 very comfortable Bedrooms and Saloons, with
15 Balconies. Water and Milk cures. Electricity. Massage, Pine needle and
Siole Baths.
BEST CENTRAL RESIDENCE FOR EXCURSIONS.
Elegant Coaches and Landau Carriages at the Hotel.
TROUT FISHING, AND VERY GOOD SHOOTING.
Moderate Charges. Pension.
ERNEST LUZ, JUNIOR, Proprietor.
GENEVA.
GRAND HÔTEL BEAU RIVAGE.
THE LARGEST AND BEST IN GENEVA.
MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE.
Only First-class Hotel opposite the Jardin Anglais.
OPEN ALL THE YEAR. LIFT. BATH - ROOMS.
No extra charge for light and service. Moderate prices.
ADOLPHE DURINGER, Manager.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
THE LARGEST AND BEST.
200 Rooms overlooking Lake and Mont Blanc.
LIFT. GARDEN. CONCERTS.
ARMLEDER & GOERGER, Proprietors.
GENEVA.
HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA
(FORMERLY HOTEL FLAEGEL).
Finest situation, near the English Garden. Splendid view on the Lake and the Alps.
Very moderate prices. No charge for light and attendance. Omnibus at the Station.
W. NIESS, Proprietor.

20

GENEVA.
HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
THE most picturesque situation in the Town, on the border of the Lake, facing the
“MONT BLANC.” Excellent kitchen, and every modern comfort combined with
moderate charges. Pension. Baths. Rooms, from 2 frs. 50 c. Table d'flote, 4 frs.
GUSTAVE KUNZ, Proprietor.
American Lift. Ascenseur.
GENEVA.
RICHMOND FAMILY HOTEL.
FACING LAKE AND MONT BLANC.
TERMS FROM SEVEN TO TEN FRANCS PER DAY,
ALL INCLUDED. LIFT.
GENEVA.
HÔTEL-PENSION BELLEVUE,
RUE DE LYON.
HEALTHY Situation. Most extensive and
shady grounds. Comfortable apartments
and single rooms. Highly recommended.
Pension from 5 francs per day.
JEAN SUTTERLIN.
GENEVA.
HÔTEL DE LA POSTE.
Best sanitary arrangements. 100 well-furnished
rooms, from 2 to 3 francs the bed.
Table d'Hote Dinner, 3 1/2 francs and 4 francs, wie
included; Supper, 3 francs. Pension, for stay, 7
to 10 francs. Lift.
GENOA.
HÔTEL DE LONDRES
(Opposite to Rubattino's Office)
ET
PENSION ANGLAISE.
The nearest to the Central
Station.
First Class. Full South.
Moderate Prices.

FLECHIA & FIORONI.
GRENOBLE.
HÔTEL MONNET.
THIS splendidly-situated First-Class Hotel, which is the largest in the
Town, and enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists,
has been enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apartments, large and
small, combine elegance and comfort, and every attention has been paid
to make this one of the best Provincial Hotels. Public and Private
Drawing-rooms; English and French Papers. Table d'Hôte at 11 and 6.
Private Dinners at any hour. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges.
The Omnibuses of the Hotel meet all Trains.
L. TRILLAT, Proprietor.
First-Class Carriages can be had at the Hotel for Excursions to the
Grande Chartreuse, Uriage, and all places of interest amongst the Alps
of Dauphiné.
URIAGE - LES - BAINS.
HÔTEL RESTAURANT, MONNET.
Founded in 1846. English Visitors will find every comfort and luxury
in this First-Class Establishment. Private Rooms for Families. Excellent
Cuisine and Wines. Table d'Hôte, 11 and 6. Carriages and Horses can
be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades.

21

GENOA (ITALY).
GRAND HOTEL ISOTTA.
HYDRAULIC LIFT.
Only FIRST - CLASS HOUSE built for an
Hotel; in the healthiest position in the town.
G. BORGARELLO.
GIJON (Spain).
GRAND HÔTEL FRANCAIS,
LA IBERIA.
MAGNIFICENT SITUATION, between
the two Beaches. View on the Port
and open Sea. Apartments for Families.
Table d'Hôte and Restaurant.
L. MALET, Proprietor.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK.
SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, & PIEDMONT.
Two Parts. Maps & Plans. Post 8vo. 10s.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
UPPER AUSTRIA. GMUNDEN. ON THE LAKE.
HOTEL DE BELLE VUE,
Facing the Steamboat Landing Place.
COMFORTABLE First Class Hotel. Highly recommended. Mr. BRACHER, the Proprietor,
has been in England and America, and knows the wants of English and
American Travellers. Charges moderate. Pension from 4 fl. to 5 fl.
THE HAGUE (Holland).
HOTEL DES INDES,
VOORHOUT, 56.
THIS magnificent First-Class Hotel is the largest in the city.
Charmingly situated near the Theatre, Park, Museum,
Telegraph, and the most frequented Promenades. It is
supplied with every modern accommodation and comfort.
TABLE D'HÔTE AT SIX O'CLOCK.
Restaurant à la carte at any hour.
EXCELLENT CUISINE AND CHOICE WINES.
SMOKING ROOM, READING ROOM, BATH, AND CARRIAGES.
Rooms from 2 florins a day.
Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season.
P. WIRTZ, Proprietor.

22

HAMBURG.
HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE.
Renowned first-class house, patronized by HRH the Prince of Wales, and by
most of the Imperial and Royal Families of Europe. Splendid situation, overlooking

the Alster-Bassin. 180 Rooms and Apartments. Elegant Reading and Smoking Rooms.
Baths. Lift. Table d'Hôte. BRETTSCHNEIDER & BANDLI, Proprietors.
HAMBURG.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK TO THE RHINE AND NORTH GERMANY.
THE BLACK FOREST, THE HARTZ, THÜRINGREWALD, SAKON SWITZARLAND,
RGEN, THE GIANT MOUNTAINS, TAUNUS, ODENWALD, ELSASS, AND
LOTHRINGEN. With Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 10s.
JOHN MURRAY, ALDEMARLE STREET.
HANOVER.
GRAND HÔTEL HARTMANN.
FIRST-CLASS Hotel, opposite the Central Station and Post Office,
with a beautiful “Restaurant and Café.” Rooms from 2 Marks. Light and
Service included. Carriage in the House.
CHRISTIAN HARTMANN, PROPRIETOR.
HARROGATE.
“THE GRANBY.”
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facing the Stray. Every accommodation
for Visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning
free of charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. Tennis Court in the Grounds.
W. H. MILNER, Proprietor.
HAVRE.

GRAND HOTEL AND BAINS FRASCATI.

Open all the year. Table d'Hôte. Restaurant facing the Sea.
Arrangements for Families. Pension from 12 fr. all the year round.
TH. FOTSCH, Directeur.

23

HEIDELBERG.
HÔTEL VICTORIA.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL in every respect. Exceedingly well Situated.
Beautiful Veranda and large Garden at the back of the House. Advantageous
arrangements made with families intending a longer stay. Highly recommended.
HEIDELBERG.
HÔTEL DE DARMSTADT.
Three-Minutes' from the Station. This Hotel,
beautifully situated on the Bismarck Square, Two
Minutes from the new Neckar Bridge, is well
known for its good keeping and very moderate
prices.
H. KRALL, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
Hotel and Boarding House,
REBER.
BEAUTIFUL situation; splendid
View of the Alps. Moderate
Charges. Good Attendance. Comfortable
Apartments.
HILDESHEIM.
HOTEL WIENER HOF.
FIRST-CLASS, in the centre of the town, near the Cathedral and all the curiosities, to
which latter the Hotel itself, with its old wood-carvings, belongs in the first line.
Garden adjoining the house. Omnibus at the Railway Station. Old German Beer-room
newly opened.
CARL WESEMANN, Proprietor.
BATHS OF HOMBURG.
MINERAL SPRINGS
very salutary for DISEASES of the STOMACH and LIVER
and ATTACKS of GOUT.
UNRIVALLED SUMMER CLIMATE.
SOVEREIGN CURE in NERVOUS DEBILITY.
MINERAL, PINE and MUD BATHS, highly recommended
for RHEUMATISM.
LAWN TENNIS GROUNDS.
All kinds of Amusements. Comfortable Hotels and Private
Houses at moderate prices.
MAGNIFICENT KURHAUS, with the well-known
RESTAURANT.
BATHS OF HOMBURG.
HÔTEL BELLE VUE.—First-Class Hotel, exceedingly well situated,
opposite the Music Pavilion, and close to the Springs. Families, and Single
Gentlemen, will find this Hotel one of the most comfortable, combining excellent
accommodation with cleanliness and moderate Charges. Best French and English
Cooking. Excellent Wines. Café Restaurant. Mineral, Pine, Shower, Cold, and Warm
Baths indoors.
W. FISCHER, Proprietor.

24

HOMBURG.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.—Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of
Wales and several other Royal Personages. Highest and Driest Position. First-Class
Hotel, close to Springs and Kursaal, with fine view of Taunus Mountains. Quiet
Apartments. Newly enlarged by Three spacious Villas. At early and later part of
Season arrangements made on very reasonable terms. Best Stag Shooting, as well as Trout
Fishing, free for guests of Hotel. Lawn Tennis. Fournisseur to H.R.H. Prince of Wales and
H.R.H. Duke of Mecklenburg S'relitz. GUSTAYE WEIGAND, Proprietor.
HOMBURG.
HÔTEL DES QUATRE SAISONS, and VILLA, with the finest views
of the Taunus, kept by Mr. W. SCHLOTTERBECK.—This final-rate House is
exceedingly well situated near the Sources and the Kursaal. It combine, every comfort
desirable with moderate charges. It has a beautiful Garden for the use of Visitors. Highest
position, and one of the best Table d'Hôtes in the Town. Arrangements at Moderate Prices
at the early and later part of the Season. Patronised by H.M. the Emperor Frederic,
H.M. the Empress Victoria and H.I.H. Princess Victoria of Germany.
HYÈRES.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL,
ET
HÔTEL DES ILES D'OR.
These large and beautiful Establishments are situated in the finest and most healthy
part of the Town, surrounded by charming Gardens, with Orange, Lemon and Palm Trees.
Commanding magnificent views of the Sea, the Isles of Hyères and the Mountains. Extensive
Dining Saloons, decorated with Pictures by one of the first country Painters of France,
Conversation Saloons with beautiful Winter-Garden, Smoking Rooms, Billiard Saloons,
Baths on every floor, combining the elegance and luxury of the most important and attractive
Hotels in Europe. Moderate charges. N.B. Pension from 9 francs per day.
OMNIBUS AT THE STATION.
E. WEBER, Proprietor.
ILFRACOMBE HOTEL.Thoroughly Furnished, Equipped, & Decorated.
250 Apartments, Noble Dining Rooms, Elegant Drawing Rooms, Large Reading
Room, Capacious Billiard Room (Two Tables), Comfortable Smoking Room, Ornamental Grounds extending
to the Sea, Eight Lawn Tennis Courts. Table d'Hôte Dinner, at separate tables, from 6 to 8 o'clock.
There is attached to the Hotel one of the Largest Swimming Baths in England; also Private Hot and Cold
Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douché, Shower, &c. Full Descriptive Tariff of MANAGER, Ilfracombe, North
Devon. The attractions of Ilfracombe, and the Places of Interest in the neighbourhood, point to it as
the natural centre to be chosen by the Tourist who desires to see with comfort, all the beauties of Coast
and Inland Scenery which North Devon affords. There is also easy access into South Devon and Cornwall.
Tourist Tickets to Ilfracombe for Two Months are issued during the Season at all principal Railway Stations.
ILFRACOMBE.
ROYAL CLARENCE
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
(Old Established.)
HAS recently been rebuilt with extra Bed Room accommodation. Commodious
Coffee Room and Ladies' Drawing Room. Billiards.
Omnibus meets every Train.
TARIFF ON APPLICATION. CHARGES MODERATE.
CHAS. E. CLEMOW, Proprietor.
At Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street, London, and “Peacock” and “Royal.” Bstn, Linolnshire.
INTERLAKEN.
RUGEN HÔTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK.
FIRST-CLASS Hotel and Pension, 150 Beds. Situated in the healthiest
position, 30 metres higher than Interlaken, with Splendid View on the Jungfrau
and Silverhorn, &c. Surrounded by Terraces and Gardens. Pension from 10 to 15
francs, according to Room. Reduced Prices in May, June, and after 15th September.
Season, May to October.
J. OESCH-MÜLLER, Proprietor.

25

INNSBRUCK.
THE beautiful and sheltered situation of Innsbruck renders it a
very agreeable place of residence all the year round. In Spring as
well as i Autn it is especially to be recommended as a stopping
place between the different
watering places. It is also
to be recommended after a
sojourn at the seaside.

THREE
FIRST-CLASS
HOTELS.
Opposite the Railway Station.
CARL LANDSEE, Proprietor.
INNSBRUCK is the centre from which many splendid
excursions can be made in every direction, and of any
length. Attractive
walks in
the immediate
neighbourhood
of the town,
and the different elevations,
render it a good
place for walking
cures after
the system of
Dr. Oertel.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.

JOHANN REINHART, Proprietor.
ARRANGEMENTS
MADE.
MODERATE
CHARGES.
POST
AND
TELEGRAPH
OFFICES.
THE climate in Winter, dry, strengthening, sunny, free from cold
winds and fogs, has attracted many visitors of late years, and
among those who have found
the greatest relief are weak,
convalescent, nervous, appetite-less
and sleepless persons.
N.B.—University, Grammar.
Music, and other Schools. Private
lessons of every kind are available,
so that studies can be continued
and the education of children
carried on.
HOTEL ZUR GOLDENEN SONNE.

CARL BEER, Proprietor.

26

INTERLAKEN.
HÔTEL-PENSION,
JUNGFRAU.
F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor.
THIS Establishment, with two Branch Houses, is situated
in the centre of the Höheweg and enjoys a splendid view of the
Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its
delightful position, as well as for its comfortable accomodation.
TABLE D'HÔTE AT 2 AND 6.30, O'CLOCK,
DINNERS À LA CARTE.
CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR
MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS.
OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS.
INTERLAKEN.
GRAND HÔTEL VICTORIA.
Magnificent Fírst-class Family Hotel; the best
situated at Interlaken
.
400 BEDS.

ELEVATOR.
Special arrangements made for a stay of some time.
ED. RUCHTI, proprietor.
Also Proprietor of “HOTEL DES ANGLAIS,” Cannes.

27

KARLSRUHE.
HÔTEL GERMANIA.
BEST SITUATED.,
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Omnibus at the Station.
F. LEERS. Proprietor.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
By Her Gracious Majesty's Special Permission. ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.
Magnificently situated on the Lower Lake.
Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales,
H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, the principal
Royal Families of Europe, and leading
American Families.
Reduced Tariff during Winter Months.
KISSINGEN (BAD).
HÔTEL DE RUSSIE.
LARGE and MAGNIFICENT FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL,
beautifully situated, overlooking the “Curgarten,” and opposite the
Mineral Springs and Baths.
Renowned for its Elegance, Cleanliness, and Excellent Cuisine. Has
120 Bedrooms and 20 Salons.
SPLENDID GARDEN.
“PENSION” in the early and later part of the Season.
M. PANIZZA, Proprietor.
KREUZNACH.
HOTEL ORANIENHOF.
LARGEST First-Class House. Finest
situation in own grounds. Visited by
the Crown Princess of Germany. The
Orantenspring, strongest mineral spring at
Kreuznich belongs to Hotel.
H. D. ALTEN, Proprietor.
ROYAL LEAMINGTON.
THE CLARENDON
FAMILY HOTEL.
Patronized by the best English
and American Families.
LE MANS.
GRAND HOTEL.
(Formerly HÔTEL DIOT ET DE LA BOULE D'OR).
Magnificent Situation. 30, RUE DUMAS. Comfortable Bedrooms and Sitting
Rooms for Families and Tourists. Salons. Baths. Special Omnibus to the Station. English
spoken.
J. CHANIER, Proprietor.
LOCH LOMOND.
TARBET HOTEL
IS the most commodious on the
Lake. Parties Boarded on Moderate
Terms.
A. H. MACPHERSON, Proprietor.
LIMOGES.
GRAND HÔTEL DE LA PAIX.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Specially recommended
to Families and Tourists.
Omnibus to Station.
J. MOT, Proprietor.
LILLE.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
RUE BASSE 30 AND 32.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, recommends itself for its comfort. Large and small apartments.
Table d'Hôte. Meals à la Carte. Moderate Prices.
Omnibus at all Trains.
LLANGOLLEN.
ROYAL HOTEL.
THE above First-class Hotel is now under the Proprietorship of JAMES S. SHAW
(Several years with Mr. MEHL, at Queen's Hotel, Manchester, and at Country Hotel,
Carliste) and is now second to none in North Wales for its comfort, catering, and lovely
situation. HOTEL OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS.

28

LISBON.
BRAGANZA HOTEL.
THIS First-Class well-known Family Hotel lately renovated by the
Royal House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, VICTOR C. SASSETTI,
highly recommendable for its large, airy and Comfortable Apartments, commanding the
most extensive and picturesque views of the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior
Cuisine, and carefully-selected Wines. “VICTOR'S HOTEL,” CINTRA, one hour by
Railway, is under the same Management.
LOCARNO.
SOUTH SWITZERLAND. LAKE MAGGIORE.
4 1/2 hours from Milan. 7 hours from Geneva. 7 hours from Lucerne,
Terminus of St. Gotthard Railway and Lake Steamers.
GRAND HOTEL LOCARNO.
First-Class House. Open all the Year. Pension.
BEST intermediate stopping place on the Italian Lakes. Magnificent
Establishment. With large Park and Lawn-Tennis Ground, Especially adapted
for Winter, Spring, and Autumn Residence. Caleriferes and Stoves. Baths. Lift.
Grape-cure. Doctor in the House. English Church. Arrangements.
New Proprietors: BALLI & CO. Manager: T. FREY, of Zurich.
LONDON.
FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES.
TRAVELLERS may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in
England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France.
WILLIAMS & NORGATE
have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock:—
ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP.
WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books.
14, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON, and
20, SOUTH FREDERICK STREET, EDINBURGH.
DINNEFORD'S
MAGNESIA.
A Pure Solution.
For Acidity of the Stomach.
For Heartburn and Headache.
For Gout and Indigestion.
Safest Aperient for Delicate Constitutions,
Ladies, Children, and Infants.
DINNEFORD & CO., 180, New Bond Street, London.
Sold by Chemists throughout the World.

29

LONDON.
THE LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK, Limited, issues
Circular Notes of £10, £25 and £50 each, for the use of Travellers, payable in the
Principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, and North and South
America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no charge is made for commission.
Letters of Credit are also granted on the same places. They may be obtained at
the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches, viz.:—
Westminster Branch 1, St. James's Square.
Bloomsbury Branch 214, High Holborn.
Southwark Branch 6, Borougb, High St.
Eastern Branch 130, High St., Whitechapel.
Marylebone Branch 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street.
Temple Bar Branch 217, Strand.
Lambeth Branch 91, Westminster
May, 1889. Bridge Rd.
South Kensington Branch, 1, Brompton Sqre.
Victoria Street Branch Victoria St., S. W.
Bayswater Branch Westbourne Grove, W.
Holborn Circus and Hatton Garden Branch 114 & 115, Holborn, E.C.
Islington Branch 269 & 270, Upper St., Islington, N.
Tottenham Court Rd. and Hampstead Rd. Branch 44 & 46, Hampstead Rd., N.W.
LONDON.
THE CHEQUE BANK, Ltd.,
ESTABLISHED 1873.
4, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall, London. City Office: 3, George Yard, Lombard
St., London. United States Agency for sale of Cheques:, 2, Wall St., New York.
CIRCULAR NOTES FOR FOREIGN TRAVEL.
Cheque Bank Cheques are largely used in place of Circular Notes by Travellers
on the Continent, the Colonies, the United States, and all over the World.
The Cheque Bank has correspondents in all parts of the World, by whom the
Cheques are cashed at the current rate of exchange without deduction.
More convenient than Circular Notes. No evidence of identity required.
Cheque Bank Cheques are well known to Hotel Keepers and generally accepted
by them as cash.
Cheque Bank Cheques will also be found very convenient for Foreign and Inland
Postal Remittances.
Fry's PURE CONCENTRATED
Cocoa
Lancet.—”Pure and very soluble.
Medical Times.—”Eminently suitable for Invalids.
SIR C. A. CAMERON, President Royal College of Surgeons,
Ireland.—”I have never tasted Cocoa that I
like so well.”
Half a tea-spoonful is sufficient to make a cup of most delicious Cocoa.
Be careful to ask for “FRY'S PURE CONCENTRATED COCOA.
36 Prize Medals awarded to
J. S. FRY & SONS, Bristol, London & Sydney.

30

LUCERNE.
GRAND HÔTEL NATIONAL.
PFYFFER, SEGESSER and CIE., Proprietors.
OPEN ALL THE YEAR.
THIS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the most
comfortable in Europe. Situated in Front of the Lake, with the
finest Views. Every attention paid to Tourists.
A LIFT FOR THE USE OF VISITORS.
LUCERNE.
SCHWEIZERHOF AND LUZERNERHOF.

First-Class Hotels.
IN THE BEST SITUATION on the LAKE and PROMENADE.
600 BEDS.
LIFT AND ELECTRIC LIGHT IN BOTH HOTELS.
ARRANGEMENT EN PENSION WITH PROTRACTED STAY (EXCLUSIVE OF
JULY AND AUGUST).
SCHWEIZERHOF OPEN ALL THE YEAR.
WITH GOOD WARMING SYSTEM.
Proprietors, HAUSER BROTHERS.

31

LUCERNE.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
First-Class Hotel, Splendid View on the Lake and Mountains.
Proprietor, F. T. STEFFEN.
LUCHON, BAGNÈRES DE, PYRÉNÉES.
GRAND HÔTEL RICHELIEU.
(Hotel de S. M. le roi de Hollande.,)
200 Rooms, 10 Salons, Splendid view.
Villa Graoieuse, and Villa Richelieu to Let. LOUIS ESTRADE, Proprietor.
LUGANO.
HOTEL AND PENSION LUGANO WITH RESTAURANT.
ON the Quai, three minutes from the landing-place of the steamers, with pleasant
garden and beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. Omnibus to all trains
Porter meets the steamers. Moderate prices.
ANGELO BROCCA, Proprietor.
LYONS.
GRAND HÔTEL DE LYON.
PLACE DE LA BOURSE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
Moderate Charges.
LYONS.
HOTEL UNIVERS,
FACING PERRACHE STATION.
THE MOST COMFORTABLE.
First Class. Full South.
MRS. DUFOUR IS ENGLISH.
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL.
Patronised by the English and Continental Royal Families.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, especially favourite and attractive.
Table d'hôta. Reading and Drawing Rooms. New
Smoking and Billiard Pavilions, all Facing the Sea. Magnificent
Views, and Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres. Private Hotel and
Boarding House attached.
THOS. BAKER, Proprietor.

32

MACON.
GRAND HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE.
Five minutes' from the Station.
FIRST-CLASS, and well situated, with view of Mont Blanc. Recommended
to Families. Interpreters. Carriages. Omnibus.
Mme. Vve. BATAILLARD, Proprietress.
Macon, the most favoured Station for hours of arrival and departure, is the most central stopping-place
from Paris for Switzerland, Italy, the Mediterranean, and terminus for direct trains for Tours and Bordeaux.
MALAGA.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL
(ANCIEN HOTEL DE LONDRES),
ALAMEDA 14
First-Class Establishment. Splendid View, Full South. Charges Moderate. Interpreters.
MALMÖ (SWEDEN).
HÔTEL HORN.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, completely renewed, in the centre of the town, commanding a
fine view, opposite the Railway and Post Office. Comfortably furnished. Good
cooking. Restaurant and Café. Cold and warm Baths. Private Dinners. Moderate
charges.
I. F. H. HORN, Proprietor.
MARIENBAD.
HOTEL KLINGER.
FIRST and Largest Hotel, with private houses, HALBMAYR'S HOUSE,
MAXHOF No. 100, and the recently opened HOTEL KLINGER, late Stadt Dresden,
“connected with the Old House,” most beautiful situation of the Spa, situate at the corner
of the Promenade on the Kreuzbrunnen and the Park, commanding a charming view.
Newly and elegantly furnished. 350 Rooms and Saloons. Reading, Conversation, and
Smoking Rooms. Lift. Table d'hôte and à la carte. Meals sent out into private houses.
Carriages at the Hotel. Omnibus at the Station.
In answer to several inquiries, the Proprietor begs to intimate that he does not keep
Touters, and therefore begs to warn Travellers against any false statements respecting his
Hotel being full, etc.
J. A. HALBMAYR, Proprietor.
MARIENBAD.
HÔTEL WEIMAR.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, patronised by English. Elevated position, near the Springs
and Bath Establishments. Single Rooms and Family Apartments, furnished with
every modern comfort and luxury. Carriages for Excursions. Omnibus at all Trains.
HAMMERSCHMID, Proprietor.
MAYENCE.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE.
WELL-KNOWN FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Thorough comfort, excellent Cooking and
coide Wines at moderate charges. Still improved since the removal of the Railway, which formerly
passed i front of the House. Being now situated in the of the newly-laid-out-public Gardens, the
Hotel commands an open view upon the River and the surrounding fine Scenery. Favourite and quiet
stopping place for excursions into the neighbourhood. Omnibus meets all Trains. Landing-place of the
Rhine Steamers opposite the Hotel.
F. BÜDINGEN, Proprietor.
MAYENCE.
RHINE HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS Hotel. Finest Position and Splendid View of the
Rhine. Especially recommended to English and American Travellers. Rooms,
including Light and Attendance, from 2 francs 50 centimes. Omnibus at Station.
W. SCHIMMEL.

33

MARSEILLES.
GRAND HÔTEL DU LOUVRE ET PAIX,
UNIVERSALLY REPUTED.
200 Chambers and Saloons.

Patent Lit.
PATRONISED by the highest class of Society. The only First-Class Hotel facing full
South. Entirely renovated and affording all modern comforts. Baths and hydrothérapie
in the Hotel. Moderate Terms. Arrangements for protracted stay.
PAUL NEUSCHWANDER, Proprietor and Manager.
Adresse Télégraphique, Louvre-Paix-Marseilles.
MERAN (SOUTH TYROL).
HOTEL HABSBURGER HOF AND DEPENDANCE.
THIS newly built First-class Hotel, close to Railway Station (no omnibus required),
open since November, 1883, offers to families and single tourists the best accommodation
from its beautiful situation (the whole frontage being South), and from the elegant
and comfortable fitting up of the Saloons and Rooms. Table d'Hôte, Restaurant. Pension
from 3fl. 50 to 5 fl. a day. Careful attendance. Ladies' and Reading Rooms. Baths,
Carriages.
A. BACHER, Proprietor.
MILAN.
HOTEL DE ROME.
ADMIRABLY situated, full South, on the Corso, a few steps from the Duomo, Scala,
and Galleries. This Hotel, comfortably furnished and fitted up with the greatest
care, is warmly recommended to English travellers for its comfort and moderate charges.
Branch House—PIAZZA FONTANA, 8 and 10.
BORELLA BROTHERS, Proprietors.
ITALY.] MILAN. [ITALY.
HÔTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE
AND REICHMANN.
FIRST-CLASS Hotel, highly recommended to English and
American Travellers, for its modern comforts and moderate charges.
Hydraulic Lift with safety apparatus, and Electric Light all
through the House.
C. ROSSI, Manager.

34

MENTONE. (1ST CLASS HOTEL).
HÔTEL DE BELLE VUE.
THIS well-known ESTABLISHMENT is beautifully situated in the
best quarter of the Town, with a vast Garden, and affords every English comfort.
Lawn Tennis Court. Ascenseur. Lift.
G. ISNARD, Proprietor.
MOSCOW.
HÔTEL BERLIN.
NA ROISCHDESTWENKA.
FIRST-CLASS, best situation in centre and cleanest part of the town, close to the Post Office, Kremlin
new Church, House Romanoff, and all other places of interest. Table d'Hôte, Good Restaurant.
Reading-room supplied with English papers. Billiard, Smoking, and good Bath Rooms. Excellent
Cuisine. Choice Wines. Moderate charges. Great attention paid to Visitors. Personal superintendence
by the Proprietor, A. CLAUSEN, who is a Swiss, speaks English, and formerly of the Midland Hotel, London,
and the Schweizerhof, Luzerne. English-speaking Interpreters. The Hotel Omnibus meets the Trains.
MOSCOW.
HOTEL SLAWIANSKY BAZAR.
THE LARGEST FIRST-CLASS HOTEL IN THE TOWN.
NEAR THE KREMLIN.
SPLENDID RESTURANT, READING AND
BATH ROOMS.
Telephone, Post and Telegraph Offices in the house.
OMNIBUS WITH INTERPRETERS AT THE RAILWAY
STATIONS.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN.
MUNICH ANNUAL EXHIBITION, 1889,
OF
WORKS OF ART OF ALL COUNTRIES
IN THE
ROYAL CRYSTAL PLACE
(GLASPALAST).
From JULY 1st until OCTOBER 15th.
THE ASSOCIATION OF MUNICH ARTISTS.

35

MUNICH-BAVARIA.

BAVARIAN HOTEL. HÔTEL DE BAVIÈRE
LARGEST, BEST SITUATED, AND FINEST HOTEL IN TOWN.
ENTIRELY rebuilt and enlarged. Contains, in addition
to 200 single and double bedrooms, an elegant suite of private
apartments. Splendid dining and coffee-rooms. Restaurant in connection
with reading, smoking, and ladies' drawing room. ELECTRIC
LIGHT, HYDRAULIC ELEVATOR. Baths. In winter the
vestibule, staircase, corridors, &c., are heated.
Pension the whole year. Moderate charges.
MUNICH.
WIMMER & CO.,
GALLERY OF FINE ARTS,
3, BRIENNER STREET,
Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their GALLERY OF FINE ARTS, containing an
Extensive Collection of
MODERN PAINTINGS
by the best Munich Artists.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. MCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street,
E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. BALDWIN BROS. & CO.,
53, Broadway, New York.
NANTES.
HÔTEL DE FRANCE.
PLACE GRASLIN. VERY FINE.
FIRST-CLASS Hotel. Entirely renovated, Large and Small Apartments
for Families. Sitting Rooms. Bedrooms from 3 fr. Table d'hôte. Restaurant.
Omnibus and Carriages. English spoken. DOUET, Proprietor.
NAPLES.
GRAND HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS and most Comfortable Hotel, situated in the finest
and most select part of Naples, with magnificient views of the Town,
Vesuvius, and the Bay. Hydraulic Lift.
ALFRED HAUSER, Proprietor.

36

NEUHAUSEN-SCHAFFHAUSEN, Falls of the Rhine.
HÔTEL SCHWEIZERHOF.
F. WEGENSTEIN, Proprietor.

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every comfort, in the best
position opposite the Falls of the Rhine, and Five minutes' walk
from Neuhausen Station.
NO GRATUITIES to the SERVANTS. 200 ROOMS.
Splendid View of the Rhinefalls, the Castle of Laufen,
and the Swiss Alpine Chain.
FINE PARK AND GARDEN.
RAILWAY TICKETS ISSUED AT THE HOTEL.
Special arrangements for a stay of some time.
The English Church Service is at the Schweizerhof.
Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaffhausen.
By means of Electricity and Bengal Lights, and directed from
the Schweizerhof
,
THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE ILLUMINATED
Every Night during the Summer Season.

37

Suisse. NEUCHATEL. Suisse.
GRAND HÔTEL DE LAC.
W. HAFEN, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, opposite the Steamers, with charming Views of the Lake and
Alps. Specially frequented by English Families. A very Comfortable House, with
most reasonable Prices. N.B.—The Proprietor speaks English.
NICE.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
BEST situated First Class Hotel, near the Promenade des Anglais and Public Gardens.
European reputation. Highly recommended. Moderate Terms. Omnibus. Lift.
S. ZUNDEL, Proprietor.
NUREMBERG.
WURTTEMBERGER HOF.
FIRST-CLASS Hotel in an admirable position, facing the Railway
Station, Post and Telegraph Offices. Close to the German
Museum and “Lorenz-Kirche.” Contains 120 Rooms with 180 Beds.
Newly built. Dining and Conversation Rooms. Baths and Carriages at
the Hotel. Moderate Terms.
F. S. KERBER, Proprietor.
NUREMBERG.
HOTEL GOLDEN EAGLE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, well situated, opposite the Kriegerdenkmal,
newly re-built, contains 110 elegantly furnished Rooms and Saloons, and is much
frequented by English and American families. Arrangements made with Families and
Single persons. Baths in the house. Carriages. Omnibus to and from the Station.
L. SCHLENK, Proprietor.
OSPEDALETTI, between San Remo and Bordighera.
The most Sheltered Winter Resort of the Riviers.
HOTEL AND PENSION SUISSE.
FULL South, with Garden and Splendid View. Beautiful Walks and Drives. Baths, Douches and
Hygeian Installations. Spring Water. English and German Physicians. English Chaplain. Pension
from
6 francs. FAVOURED PARTICULARLY BY ENGLISH VISITORS.
K. STICKELBERGER, Proprietor.
OSTEND.
HÔTEL DE LA PLAGE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FACING THE BATHING PLACE.
Open from the 1st June to 15th October. Highly recommended.
J. and O. THOMA, Proprietors.
OSTEND.
MERTIAN'S
FIRST-CLASS
FAMILY HOTEL AND
PENSION.
Close to the Sea and Kursaal. Telephone.
PISA.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.
Clean. Great Attention.
RECOMMENDED.

38

PALERMO.
HÔTEL DE FRANCE.
FREQUENTED by English and American families; has many sunny rooms; in the
healthiest position in Palermo, facing the beautiful Garden Garibaldi, Piazza Marina,
near the Botanical Garden and Villa Giulia.
English and American Newspapers. MODERATE CHARGES.
P. WEINEN.
PAU.
HÔTEL DE FRANCE.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Royale; commands
the most splendid view of the whole chain of the Pyrénées, and is adjoining
to the English Club.
GARDÈRES FRÈRES, Proprietors.
PAU.
GRAND HÔTEL BEAU SÉJOUR.

FIRST-CLASS. Recommended for its Comfort. Incomparable position
for beauty of the Panorama. Apartments for Families, with view embracing the
Pyrénées. Excellent Cooking and irreproachable attendance. BOURDETTE, Proprietor.
PISA.
Winter Season. GRAND HOTEL. Winter Season.
Splendid Situation, full South, in the Centre of the Town.
70 Bedrooms and 10 Saloons, all facing the Lung Arno Regio.
PENSION FROM 8 TO 12 FRANCS A DAY.
W. GARBRECHT (Hanoverian),
New Proprietor.
SPEAKS GOOD ENGLISH.

39

PLYMOUTH.
Only Hotel with Sea View.
GRAND HOTEL.
(ON THE HOE.)
Facing Sound, Breakwater, &c. Mail Steamers anchor in sight. Public Rooms, and Sitting
Rooms, with Balconies. JAMES BOHN, Proprietor.
POITIERS.
GRAND HÔTEL DE FRANCE.—First-Class and recommended to
Families and Tourists for its comfort and good management. The most central of
the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, Prefecture, Telegraph, Post Office, Museum, Historical
Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and truffied Pâtés of all sorts. Carriages
for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel.
ROBLIN-BOUCHARDEAU, Proprietor.
RENNES.
GRAND HÔTEL.
JULLIEN, Proprietor. GRIVOIS, Successor.
FIRST-CLASS, well recommended. English Spoken, and
English Newspapers. Omnibus at the Station.
RHEIMS.
GRAND HOTEL.
This unrivalled establishment, facing the Cathedral, has been considerably embellished
by the present Proprietor, Mr. M. WILMART. It is an Hotel of great repute, and deserving
in every respect the patronage of English Travellers. Public Saloons, Reading, and Smoking Rooms.
Hydraulic Lift. Hot and Cold Baths. Table d'hôte at 6.3). English Newspapers. Only Hotel
where English and German are spoken. Visitors are cautioned not to be misled by touters of Omnibus
conductors. The Grand Hotel Omnibus meets every Train.
RHEIMS.
HÔTEL DU LION D'OR.
THE most aristocratic of the town, and the only one actually
in front of the Cathedral. Housemaids for Ladies. Very nice Garden.
English spoken.
RIGI.
HOTEL AND PENSION RIGI-SCHEIDEGG.
TERMINUS Station of the Rigi Kaltbad-Scheidegg Railway. Excellently
suited for Tourists and Pensioners. Pension by a stay of not less than four
days, 7 francs to 12 francs, Room included. Liberal treatment. View on
the Alps as beautiful as at Rigi Kulm. English Service. Lawn Tennis Grounds.
Dr. R. STIERLIN-HAUSER.
ROUEN.
GRAND HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE
(ON THE QUAY).
Mr. AUGUSTE MONNIER, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. LEON SOUCHARD.
THIS HOTEL is distinguished for the salubrity of its situation, &c.;
and the new Proprietor has entirely refitted it, and added a very comfortable
Smoking-Room. It is situated on the Quay facing the Bridges, and commands the finest
view of the Seine, and the magnificent Scenery encircling Rouen, that it is possible to
imagine. Travellers will find at this first-rate Establishment every comfort—alry Rooms,
good Beds, Refreshments and Wines of the best quality at moderate Prices. An excellent
Table d'Hôte at Six o'clock. Restaurant ò la carte.
Mr. Monnier speaks English, and has English Servants.
An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. MONNIER.

40

ROME.
HOTEL ROYAL MAZZERI
Via Venti Settembre.
THIS New Hotel, opened in 1888, is situated
full South, on the Highest and Healthiest
part of Rome, near the English Embassy and
the Royal Palace. A short distance only from
the Railway Station.
SALISBURY.
THE WHITE HART HOTEL,
Nearly opposite the Cathedral. The LARGEST and PRINCIPAL HOTEL in the CITY.
THIS old-established First-Class Hotel contains every accommodation for Families and Tourists. A Ladies'
Coffee Room. Billiard and Smoking Rooms and spacious Coffee Rooms for Gentlemen. Table d'Hôte'
daily, during the season, from 6.30 to 8.30 p.m., at separate tables. Carriages and Horses on Hire for
Stonehenge and other places of interest. Excellent Stabling, Loose Boxes, &c. Tariff on application to
H. T. BOWES, Manager, Positing-Moster to Her Majesty.
SALZBURG.
HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE.
OPPOSITE the Station. First-Class Hotel, surrounded by a large
Park, and offering the best view on the Mountains. PENSION: until the 15th of July
and after the 15th of September, from 4 florins upwards; from the 15th of July until the
15th of September, from 5 florins upwards. Lawn Tennis Grounds.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. HYDRAULIC LIFT.
Moderate Charges.
G. JUNG, Proprietor.
SAUMUR.
HÔTEL BUDAN.
The only one on the banks of
the Loire.
SPLENDID VIEW.
SENS (Yonne).
GRAND HÔTEL DE PARIS.
FIRST-CLASS. Situated near the Cathedral
and Promenades. Specially recommended
to Families. English spoken.
Omnibus to Station.
LEMOINE-AUDY, Proprietor.

41

SCHWALBACH (BATHS OF).
BEST IRON, STEEL, AND MUD BATHS.
Climatic Station.
Alphabetical List of Hotels—Alleesaal, Duke of Nassau, Metropole.
Quellenhof, Taunus.
SENDIG SCHANDAU,
SAXON SWITZERLAND.
Pension from 6 marks, everything included.
HOTELS AND PENSIONS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
SPA.
GRAND HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE.
First-class House, close to the Mineral Springs, Casino,
and Anglican Church.
FAMILY HOTEL. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
HENRARD-RICHARD, Proprietor.
SPA.
Grand Hôtel Britannique.
F. LEYH, Proprietor.
PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM,
And maintains a high reputation among the Aristocracy of
Europe.
SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN.
LARGE GARDEN AND SWIMMING BATHS.
Adjoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
OMNIBUS AT EACH ARRIVAL.
STOCKHOLM.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL.
THIS comfortable Hotel is situated opposite the Central Railway Station and in the
Centre of the City, with 100 Elegant Apartments. Good Dining Room and
Coffee Room. English Newspapers, English Attendance. Moderate Charges. Baths
Hot and Cold.
C. BAYOUD, Proprietor.

42

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.

GRAND HÔTEL.
THIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City,
between Charles the XIIth's Square and the National Museum, on
one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Mälar and
the Baltic.
The Royal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel on
the opposite side of the Harbour. The Royal Opera and the Principal
Theatres are in close proximity.
The balconies and roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views
of the City.
The House is replete with every modern improvement and convenience,
and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most comfortable
Hotels on the Continent.
The Building contains Four Hundred Sleeping Apartments, besides
Dining Rooms, Sitting Rooms, Coffee and Reading Rooms, a Billiard Room,
a Telegraph and Post Office, Baths, Retiring Rooms, a Laundry, and other
accommodations. The several flats can be reached by Steam Lifts.
All European Languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to
all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terms will be found
to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels.
The Hôtel Rydberg.
GUSTAF ADOLF'S TORG.
THIS Old-established House has long been favourably known to Travellers.
It contains One Hundred and Fifty Sleeping Apartments.
The Proprietor of these Two First-Class Hotels is in a position to offer
every advantage to strangers visiting the Swedish Capital.
R. CADIER,
Proprietor of the Grand Hôtel and the Hôtel Rydberg.

43

ST. GERVAIS-LES-BAINS, VILLAGE
(Hte. SAVOIE.)
HOTEL DE MONT BLANC.
(2,450 feet above Sea level.)
Bracing air, best situated Hotel in place,
near Post and Telegraph. Lovely views,
excursions, glaciers, &c. English spoken.
A. CHAMBEL, Proprietor.
ST. PETERSBURG
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK.
FOR TRAVELLERS IN RUSSIA, POLAND AND
FINLAND.
Fourth Edition. Maps and Plans. Post vo. 18s.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
ST. PETERSBURG.
FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT.
A. CONTANT.
MOIKA 58.
Renowned for its Wines
and Cookery.
SPLENDID GARDEN.
An Orchestra performs
during Meals.

ST. PETERSBURG.
HÔTEL DE FRANCE.
Kept by E. RENAULT.
BEST situation in the Town, Great Morskaïa, right opposite the
Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Newski Prospekt.
Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented,
especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with
French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papers. Greatly to be
recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine. Dinners
1 r. 50 k. and 3 r. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles.
All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on
the Premises. The English Guide, Charles A. Kuntze, highly commended.
☞ The Hotel is recommended in Murray's Handbook of Russia.
The HÔTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HÔTEL DE
FRANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor.
STRASBOURG.
HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
BEST-SITUATED NEWLY REBUILT FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
Near the Station and Cathedral. Close to the Post and
Telegraph Office. Baths. Moderate Charges. Rooms from 2 marks,
light and attendance included. Omnibus at the Station.
CH. MATHIS, Proprietor.

44

STRASBURG.
HÔTEL NATIONAL.
THE only one opposite the Railway Station. New FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, combined
with every Comfort. Large and Small Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. Baths
and Lift system improved. Best Cuisine. Moderate Charges.
L. OSTERMANN, Proprietor.
Formerly Manager of the Hotel “Ville de Paris.”
STUTTGART.
HÔTEL MARQUARDT
IS situated in the finest part of the Town, in the beautiful Place Royal,
adjoining the Railway Station, near the Post Office, the Theatre, the Royal Gardens,
opposite the Palace, and facing the Königsban. This Hotel will be found most comfortable
in every respect; the Apartments are elegantly furnished, and suitable for Families or
Single Gentlemen. Table d'Hôte at 1 and 5 o'clock. French and English Newspapers.
GME. MARQUARDT, Proprietor.
THUN (Switzerland).
THE GRAND HOTEL.
A FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, one of the largest and most comfortable in
Switzerland. The only one with a Lift in the place, and especially adapted for a
long sejour. The Terrace of the Hotel, which has no rival in Switzerland, is worth a visit.
There is also an English Library.
Pension, during the whole Season, by staying Five Days,
from 8 francs, everything included.
CH. STAEHLE,
Also Proprietor of the Hôtel du Paradis at Cannes.
TOURS.
GRAND HÔTEL
DE L'UNIVERS.
ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE
STATION.
European Reputation.
Highly recommended in all the French
and Foreign Guide Books.
EUGENE GUILLAUME, Proprietor.

45

TOURS.
HÔTEL DE BORDEAUX.
Proprietor, CLOVIS DELIGNOU.
Patronized by His Royal Highness
the Prince of Wales, and the
European Courts.
IN FRONT OF THE STATION AND
UPON THE BOULEVARD.
Splendid Apartments.
TOULOUSE.
GRAND HÔTEL DU MIDI.
Patronized by the Duke of Norfolk and Duc d'Aumale.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE PLACE DU CAPITOLE.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT,
Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels in France.
Frequented by the highest Class of English and American Travellers.
English spoken. Restaurant and Table d'Hôte. Rich Reading Room and Conversation Salon. “The Times” Newspaper.
EUG. POURQUIER, Proprietor.,
VALENCIA (Spain).
GRAND HOTEL D'ESPACNE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Newly constructed with every modern
comfort. French Cooking. The finest Wines of Spain and other
countries are contained in the cellars. Reading-room, Drawing-room,
Private Dining-rooms, Bath-rooms, Carriages. Interpreter. Telephone.
Electric Light. Large and small apartments for families and personages.
Omnibus to all the trains.

46

VENICE.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
FORMERLY HOTEL LAGUNA & PENSION.
Opposite the Landing Place for the Peninsular and Oriental Steamers.
THIS HOTEL, situated in the Full South, Qual des Esclavons, commands a splendid view, and overlooks the Lagune and the surrounding islands near San Mark's Square. The Proprietor has spared nothing to embellish the house and make it comfortable in every respect. Excellent Cooking. Good Table d'Hôte. Choice Wines and Moderate Prices. English spoken. Mr. F. VENTURINI, Proprietor.
Telephone in every Apartment.
VENICE.
HOTEL D'ITALIE
AND BAUER.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, near St. Mark's Square, on the Grand Canal, facing the Church of St. Maria della Salute. Patronised by English and Americans.
FIRST - RATE ATTENDANCE.
Celebrated for its Grand Restaurant & Vienna Beer
JULES GRÜNWALD, Proprietor.
VERONA.
GRAND HÔTEL DE LONDRES
and HOTEL ROYAL DES DEUX TOURS.
THE ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL IN VERONA, in the centre of the Town. Great comfort and moderate charges. English Church Service in the Hotel. All Languages spoken. Omnibus at the Stations. Highly recommended.
A. CERESA, Proprietor. G. CAVESTRI, Manager.
VENICE.
HÔTEL D'EUROPE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
SITUATED IN THE BEST POSITION ON THE GRAND CANAL.
Has just been repaired and greatly improved. New large Dining Room on the Ground Floor overlooking the Grand Canal.
SMOKING AND READING ROOMS. BATHS.
Patronised by the most distinguished Families.
MARSEILLE BROTHERS,
Proprietors.

47

VICHY.
GRAND HÔTEL DES AMBASSADEURS, Situated in the Park.—
This magnificent Hotel is now the first in the town. It is managed in the same style as the largest and best hotels on the Continent. By its exceptional situation, the house presents three fronts, from which the most beautiful views are to be had; and from its balconies is heard twice a day the excellent Band of the Casino. The management of its large and small apartments is very comfortable. Every room has a Dressing Room. Special wire going from all apartments to the private servants' rooms. Beautiful Reading, Drawing, and Smoking Rooms. Billiard Tables. English spoken. Omnibus of the Hotel at all Trains. The Hotel is open from the 15th of April. Post and Telegraph Offices adjoining the Hotel.
ROUBEAU, Proprietor.
VICHY.
GRAND HÔTEL DU PARC,
and GRAND HOTEL.
THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths,
Springs, and Casino.
PRIVATE PAVILION FOR FAMILIES.
GERMOT, Proprietor.
VIENNA.
HOTEL ARCHDUKE CHARLES,
KAURNTHNERSTRASSE (the favourite Street).
ONE OF THE MOST RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOTELS, with good Restaurant. English cooking in the House. Bath Rooms. Reading Rooms, etc.
Pension. Prices Moderate.
B. SMITH, Proprietor.

48

VIENNA.
EXPORT MUSTERLAGER.
PERMANENT Exhibition of the most important shipping articles, manufactured by the members of the Oster Export “Verein.” (The Austro-Hungarian Export Society.)
Vienna, Wollzeile 37.
Open free. On Weekdays, from 9 till 4 o'clock.
On Sundays from 9 till 12 o'clock.
The Export Musterlager was established by the Austro-Hungarian Export Society (Export Verein), to support the shipping trade of its members. (More than 600 members, including the most important manufactories of the Empire).
Agencies in Alexandria, Cairo, Beyrouth, Buenos Ayres, Sofia, Paris, Amsterdam, London, Hamburg, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Madrid, New York, Barcelona, Cadiz, Athens, Salonica, Constantinople, Batavia, Singapore, Yokohama, Mexico, Naples, Milan, Aleppo, Adrianople, Rustschuk, Odessa, Soerabaya, Calcutta.
Complete catalogues of the Exhibitors (in Six languages) will be sent free by the Secretary of the Society (Vienna, Wollzeile 37), or may be got at all Austro-Hungarian Consulates.
The Export Society will be pleased to give all information about the Manufactories in Austro-Hungary.
VIENNA.
J. & L. LOBMEYR,
Glass Manufacturers,
Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria,
No. 11, KAURNTHNERSTRASSE.
The most extensive Establishment for BOHEMIAN CRYSTAL, FANCY GLASS, and Chandeliers.
Every variety of Glass for Household use, Ornament, and in Art Workmanship. Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-Glasses. Chandeliers, Candelabras, in Crystal and Bronze.
LARGE SHOW-ROOMS UPSTAIRS.
The prices are fixed, and are very moderate.—English is spoken.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. MeCRACKEN, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will transmit all orders with the greatest care and attention.

49

VIENNA.
HOTEL GOLDENE ENTE.
CHARLES RICHARD, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, Newly-built, near St. Stephen's Cathedral. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. Elegant Dining Rooms. Pension from 5 fl. Rooms from 1 fl.
VIENNA.
HOTEL SACHER.
Opposite the Imperial and Royal Opera House.
MOST elegant and frequented quarter of the Capital. Arrangements made for Pension. Baths on all floors. Hydraulic Lift. First Restaurant in Austro-Hungary. English Cooking.
EDWARD SACHER,
Imperial and Royal Purveyor,
PROPRIETOR OF THE PRATER HILL AND SACHER GARDEN (In the Prater)
(The Sacher Garden is open to Clubs only).
Post, Telephone and Telegraph. Moderate Prices.
The New Americans Clycerine Tooth Cream
KALODONT.
(ANALYSED BY THE BOARD OF HEALTH). REMAINS ALWAYS PURE AND FRESH.
F. A. SARGIS, SON & CO., VIENNA, Purveyors to the L & R Court.
Sold by all Chemists and Perfuwers, &c., at 35 kl. in Austro-Hungary; 65 pf. in Germany; 1 fr. in France; 10d, in England.
VIENNA.
HOTEL KRONPRINZ.
FINEST SITUATION. Near the Prater. Overlooking the Ringstrass, Danube, and Kahleuberg. Commercial and Family Hotel. No charges for service. Front rooms from is. 6d. Tariff in every room, English spoken. Every comfort.
WURZBURG.
KRONPRINZ HOTEL.
THIS First-Class Hotel, recommended for its Large and Airy Apartments, finest situation near Station, facing Palace, and adjoining a fine Garden. Reading Rooms. Cold and Warm Baths, &c. Moderate Charges.
J. AMMON.
WIESBADEN.
HÔTEL BELLE VUE.
THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL is situated in the finest part of Wiesaden, and patronized by Their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and by Royal Families of several Courts. Has just been Repaired and greatly Improved. New elegant Dining Room. New Smoking and Reading Rooms, with a beautiful Garden.
Pension. Rath, Prices Moderate.
VICTOR KLEEBLATT, Proprietor.,
WIESBADEN.
HÔTEL AND BADHAUS VICTORIA.
NEW MANAGEMENT.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, beautifully situated opposite the Stations. Entirely renovated. Private Mineral Spring. Pension all the year round.
SCHWEISGUTH BROS., Proprietors.

50

WIESBADEN.
HÔTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU.
(NASSAUER HOR.)
Messrs. GOETZ BROTHERS, Proprietors.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL of old and good reputation, opposite the Curhaus, Colonnades, Parks, and next the Theatre. Splendid Dining and Reading Rooms. Table d'Hôte at One and Five o'clock. Mineral Baths of Own Hot Spring.
HÔTEL VILLA NASSAU.
Annexe of the HOTEL DR NASSAU. Proprietors also Messrs. GOETZ BROTHERS.
FINEST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modern Comfort, in beautiful situation next the Hot Springs, Theatre, Curhaus, Colonnades, etc.
WIESBADEN.
ROSE HOTEL AND BATH HOUSE.
SPLENDID First-Class Establishment, surrounded by its own large Garden, best situation, opposite the Promenades and the Park. An elegant Bath-House attached, supplied with Mineral Water direct from the principal hot spring (the Kochbrunnen). Drawing, Reading, Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Table d'Hôte at One and Six o'clock. Hydraulic Lift.
H. HAEFFNER.
WILDBAD.
HÔTEL KLUMPP,
Formerly HOTEL DE L'OURS.
MR. W. KLUMPP, PROPRIETOR.
THIS First-Class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bed Rooms, with a separate Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a very extensive and elegant Dining Room; an artificial Garden over the river; is beautifully situated in connection with the old and new Bath Buildings and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and the New Colonnade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent Hotel. Table d'Hôte at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers à la carte. Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to and from each Train. Elevators to every floor. Fine Private Carriages when requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Reduced prices for Rooms in the months of May, September and October.
EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION.
ZURICH.
HÔTEL BAUR AU LAC.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. BEST SITUATION.
BEAUTIFUL GARDEN. HYDRAULIC LIFT.
PATRONISED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FAMILIES.
Not to be confounded with Hotel Baur (in the Town).

51

NORDDEUTSCHER LLOYD,
BREMEN.
Imperial and United States Mail Steamers.
THIS COMPANY ARE THEIR OWN INSURERS.
The following magnificent Clyde-built Express Steamers—
“Lahn,” “Saale,” “Trave,” “Aller,” “Ems,” “Eider,” “Werra,” “Fulda,” “Elbe,” of 5500 tons, 8000 horse power, which are amongst the fastest and most luxuriously fitted vessels afloat,
ARE APPOINTED TO SAIL BETWEEN
BREMEN AND NEW YORK,
Calling at Southampton for Passengers and Mails. From Bremen every Wednesday and Saturday; from Southampton every Thursday and Sunday; from New York every Wednesday and Saturday.
FARES TO NEW YORK FROM
Bremen, Southampton, Havre, Paris,
1st Class: 300 to 525 Mks. 285 to 495 Mks. 300 to 510 Mks. 315 to 525 Mks.
2nd Class: 200 to 300 Mks. 200 to 270 Mks. 200 to 285 Mks. 205 to 300 Mks.
FARES FROM NEW YORK TO
Bremen, Southampton, London, or Havre. {1st Class: 75 to 175
2nd Class 50 to 65
The above-named prices are determined by the season of the year and the position of state-room.
This Company has regular Mail and Passenger Steamers between Bremen and the following ports: BALTIMORE (direct), weekly; Bahia, Rio de Janeiro, and Santos, viâ Antwerp and Lisbon, monthly; Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, twice a month.
ALSO MONTHLY MAIL AND PASSENGER SERVICES TO
EASTERN ASIA
(CHINA AND JAPAN),
AND
AUSTRALIAN PORTS.
Full particulars on application to the Company in Bremen or to the undermentioned Agents.
AGENTS IN LONDON:
KELLER, WALLIS, & Co., 32 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross 5 and 7 Fenchurch Street, E.C.
PHILLIPPS and GRAVES, Botolph House, Eastcheap, E.C.
Agents in Southampton KELLER, WALLIS, and Co.
Agents in Paris and Havre LHERBETTE, KANE, and Co.
Agents in New York OELRICHS and Co., No. 2 Bowling Green.
Agents in Baltimore A. SCHUMACHER and Co.
Agents in Antwerp H. ALBERT DE BARY Co.
Agents in Lisbon KNOWLES, RAWES, and Co.

52

IMPORTANT TO THE
TRAVELLING PUBLIC.
THE
ORIGINAL COURIERS' AGENCY.
ESTABLISHED 1832.
COURIERS,
DRAGOMEN,
AND
TRAVELLING SERVANTS.
Families and Gentlemen requiring the services of
either of the above can always rely upon securing
a trustworthy and efficient Man by applying at

LEE AND CARTER'S,
440, WEST STRAND,
where an Extensive Stock of Tourists' Requisites are
always kept, and Passports and Visas attended to.


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JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
[illeg.] 1889.





Date: (unknown) (Electronic edition revised December 2006) . Author: John Murray (Firm) (Electronic edition revised LMS).
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons attribution license.